Published by

Department of Conservation
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Private Bag 4715
xx, New Zealand
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The
Greenstone
Caples Track
Easy tramping track
Lake Wakatipu/Fiordland
Tooth Peak from Greenstone Hut Photo: DOC
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Huts and camping
DOCs huts on the tracks have coal res for heating only.
Trampers need their own cookers as gas stoves are not
provided. All huts have mattresses and water (indoor
running water in summer, outside tank water in winter).
Hut wardens are present from late October until mid-
April. A Backcountry Pass or Backcountry tickets must
be purchased in advance from a DOC ofce or approved
outlet.
Trampers should leave huts clean and tidy, and pack out
what they pack in. There are no rubbish disposal facilities.
Camping is permitted along the bush edge and 50 metres
from the track. Camping on McKellar Saddle is not
permitted because of the fragile subalpine environment
or on the privately owned Caples and Greenstone valley
oors.
To camp by any of the four huts there is a fee of $5 per
night for adults and $2.50 per night for childrenif
camping here please use the hut toilet. If camping
elsewhere please bury all human waste carefully.
General information
The grassy river ats of the Caples and Greenstone
valleys are private farmland. Please stay on the tracks
following the forest edge. Do not disturb stock.
The forest is managed by the Department of
Conservation. Fiordland National Park begins at the
southern end of Lake McKellar.
In areas without toilets, bury your waste at least 50 metres
from tracks, huts, camping sites, popular areas and water
sources.
For further information contact:
Queenstown Regional Visitor Centre
Outside Sports Building, Level 1, 3638 Shotover Street
PO Box 811, Queenstown 9348
Phone: +64 3 442 7935 Fax: +64 3 442 7932
Email: [email protected]
www.doc.govt.nz
Buckleytransport
www.buckleytransport.co.nz
8 am depart Queenstown
arrive Greenstone 10 am
12 pm depart Greenstone
arrive Queenstown 2.15 pm
Pick up and drop off in
Glenorchy by arrangement.
Your choice of time for groups of 4 or more.
Phone (03) 442 8215
email [email protected]
We service all other tracks.
9 421005 174229 >
Published by Publishing Team
Department of Conservation
PO Box 10420, Wellington,
New Zealand
October 2012.
Jean Batten Peak from McKellar Saddle Photo: DOC
Tramping the Caples and Greenstone valleys,
by crossing the subalpine McKellar Saddle, is an
excellent four- to ve-day round trip in superb
surroundings. The Greenstone valley is wide and
open with tussock ats and beech forest. The Caples
is narrower and more heavily forested, interspersed
with grassy clearings. Both tracks can link with the
Routeburn Track and can be walked either way,
starting or nishing at either The Divide or the
Greenstone Shelter.
History
The Greenstone and Hollyford valleys were the easiest
access routes between the West Coast and Central Otago,
and widely used by Mori from Otago and Murihiku/
Southland. West Coast Ki Tahu also used the route to
reach the Dart valley to
collect the highly valued,
pearly grey-green inanga
variety of pounamu
(greenstone). No Mori
archaeological sites have
been found within the
Greenstone and Caples
valleys, but about 20
sites have been identied
beside the Dart/Te Awa
Whakatipu and Rees/
Puahere Rivers, and on
Pigeon Island/Wwhi
Waka, opposite the
Greenstone valley.
The rst Europeans
here included Southland
runholders, David
McKellar and George
Gunn in 1862, looking for
grazing land, and a year
later a prospector, Patrick
Caples, was the rst to
cross from Lake Wakatipu
to the West Coast. For a
long time the pack track
up the Greenstone valley
was the only route to Martins Bay on the West Coast. Farming
began in the Caples valley in 1880the original Birchdale
homestead still standsand the Greenstone valley and the
Pass Burn were used as stock routes by early runholders.
By the late 1800s Lake Rere was a popular destination. The
steamers stopped at the Eln Bay Wharf, and the tourists
walked to the lake.
Natural history
The dominant rock of both valleys and the surrounding
mountains is Caples sandstone. This is a tough, erosion-
resistant rock which has been tilted and now virtually stands
on end. A band of blackish serpentinethe Greenstone
melangeis found in the lower reaches of both river valleys.
In its heyday, the once enormous Hollyford Glacier reached
Martins Bay on the coast, owed over Key Summit on the
main divide and branched into the Eglinton and Greenstone
valleys. It then split at the Sly Burn and reached Mavora
Lakes and Lake Wakatipu, in the south and east respectively.
The forests in both valleys are beech, Nothofagus spp. The
larger leaved red beech/tawhairaunui prefers lower altitudes
and alluvial fans, small smooth-leaved mountain beech/
tawhairauriki prefers higher altitudes, and silver beech/
tawhai occurs throughout the valleys. In summer, bands of
the diferent beech species can be seen on the valley sides.
The forest under-storey is populated by ferns and small
shrubs and trees such as horopito with its peppery tasting
leaves.
The open, grassy river ats have always been clear of forest,
as frequent frosts prevent encroachment. As a result of
farming, native grass and tussock has mostly been replaced
by introduced grasses, though extensive tussock remains in
the mid and upper Greenstone.
There are prominent patches of celery and bog pine
on the river ats and on the McKellar Saddle, naka or
Dracophyllum, tussocks and stunted mountain beech.
Beech forests are rich in invertebrate life and insect-eating
birds such as tomtit/miromiro, fantail/pwakawaka, rieman/
ttipounamu, brown creeper/ppipi and South Island robin/
kakaruai thrive. Kkriki/parakeet, mohua/yellowhead and
kk can be seen in the Greenstone and Caples forests.
Kea are sometimes seen at the upper end of the Caples track,
and New Zealand falcon/krearea soar above the valley ats
and forest edges. Mohua and long-tailed bat/pekapeka
are also found in the Upper Caples valley. Whio or blue
duck inhabit fast owing streams and the noisy paradise
duck/ptatakitaki and black shag/kau are conspicuous
on the river ats.
Te Whipounamu
South West New Zealand
World Heritage Area
South West New Zealand is one
of the great wilderness areas
of the Southern Hemisphere.
Known to Mori as Te
Whipounamu (the place of
greenstone), the South West
New Zealand World Heritage
Area incorporates Aoraki/Mount
Cook, Westland/Tai Poutini,
Fiordland and Mount Aspiring
National Parks, covering 2.6
million hectares.
World Heritage is a global
concept that identies natural
and cultural sites of world
signicance, places so special
that protecting them is of
concern for all people.
Some of the best examples of
animals and plants, once found
on the ancient supercontinent
Gondwana, live in the World
Heritage Area.
Ngi Tahu Land Settlement
K Whenua Roimata
As part of the Crowns settlement of Ngi Tahus historic
land claims, three high country stations at the head of
Lake Wakatipu have been transferred to Te Rnanga
o Ngi Tahu. In turn, Te Rnanga has transferred 4100
hectares of mountain land in the southern Ailsa and
Humboldt Mountains back to the Crown, as a gift to the
people of New Zealand. This land is now known as K
Whenua Roimata, which translates as 'the land of tears'.
Te Rnanga o Ngi Tahu is also to lease back to the
Crown in perpetuity other signicant portions of the
stations as conservation areas. These are mainly in
the Mararoa catchment. In addition, there are rights of
way for public foot access across Ngi Tahu lands in
the Lake Rere and Scott Basin areas and also along the
Greenstone and Caples valleys.
Upper Caples
Hut
McKellar
Hut
Howden
Hut
Greenstone
Saddle
Routeburn
Track
Mavora
Walkway
Old homestead
(private)
Mid Caples
Hut
Greenstone
Hut
)
(
(24 bunks)
(12 bunks)
(20 bunks)
(12 bunks)
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L
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to Glenorchy to Greenstone
road end
Track
Hut
Shelter
Public conservation land
Land gifted back from Ngai Tahu
Land leased back from Ngai Tahu
Camping
Car park
Toilets
0 3km
Note: Howden Hut is part
of the Routeburn Track
system: bookings are
essential late October to
end April.
The
Divide
Lake
McKellar
Lake
Gunn
Lake
Rere
Greenstone
Wharf
Elfin Bay
Wharf
Kinloch
Mt Bonpland
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Glacier
Burn
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Slip
Flat
Lake
Wakat i pu
McKellar
Saddle
Pigeon Is /
Wawahi Waka
Glenorchy
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Jean Batten Pk
Tooth Peak
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TRAMPING
TRACK!
MORE
DIFFICULT
TRAMPING
TRACK!
MORE
DIFFICULT
Hunting and shing
The Caples and Greenstone valleys are rainbow and
brown trout sheries of national importance. Both a
Whole Season and Backcountry Licence are requiredy
shing only with a daily, one sh, bag limit. Anglers must
agree to Didymo cleaning procedures before obtaining
a Backcountry Licence. A controlled shery will be
established on the upper Greenstone River, from its
source to the Sly Burn conuence from 1 February to
31 March.
To apply for licences, visit the Fish & Game NZ website:
www.shandgame.org.nz
Didymo is an invasive weed of rivers and streams that
can form massive blooms. These can adversely
afect sh, plants and invertebrates by reducing
their habitats. Please Check, Clean and Dry
all equipment, apparel and vehicles that have
entered waterways.
The Wakatipu Recreational Hunting Area covers both the
Greenstone and Caples catchments. Black fallow deer are
the most common, though white fallow deer are present.
Chamois are frequently seen among the tops in Fiordland
National Park and in the Recreational Hunting Area. Red
deer may also be seen.
There is a balloted restricted shooting season and
shooting is not allowed 100 metres either side of the
main valley tracks or on farmland. A hunting permit is
requiredcontact the DOC Wakatipu Area Ofce, Cavells
Building, 1 Arthurs Point Road, Queenstown 9371,
phone (03) 442 7933.
Track grades
Easy tramping track: generally well-formed track for
comfortable overnight tramping/hiking trips.
Tramping track: mostly unformed but has track
directional markers, poles or cairns.
Warning: Unbridged side streams on these track
systems may ood due to heavy or prolonged rain.
Care is required. Make sensible decisions about
river crossings, and have alternative plans.
!
Greenstone Road end to Mid Caples Hut
23 hours, 9 km
Follow the Greenstone/Caples Track from the car park. After
23 minutes, a stock bridge gives access to the Lake Rere
Track. Dont cross the bridge but keep to the true leftthe
rivers left bank, looking downstream. The track continues
past the conuence of the Caples and Greenstone Rivers.
Another swing bridge provides access to the Greenstone
Track. The Caples Track continues on the true left of the
Caples River. Along the valley oor it mainly follows the bush
edge, but crosses the occasional grassy clearing. Just before
the 12-bunk Mid Caples Hut, the track crosses a spectacular
gorge.
Mid Caples Hut to Upper Caples Hut
1 hr 30 minutes2 hr 30 minutes, 7 km
Travel up the valley through bush and grassy clearings is
easybeware however of side streams on this section after
heavy rain. Where the valley begins to narrow, youll nd
12-bunk Upper Caples Hut in a bush clearing.
Upper Caples Hut to McKellar Hut
58 hours, 13 km
From Upper Caples Hut the track climbs through beech
forest and is at rst quite rough with exposed tree roots and
rocks. After about one hour, the track becomes easier as it
sidles up towards the bush edge along a recently upgraded
section. The track across McKellar Saddle (945 m, 23
hours from Upper Caples Hut) gives great views and has
been boardwalked to protect the fragile subalpine vegetation.
West of the saddle, the track again enters the bush and drops
rapidly on a recently upgraded section for one hour to the
open valley oor where a track junction is reached upstream
from Lake McKellar. The 24-bunk McKellar Hut lies to the
left and 28-bunk Howden Hut to the right. Both are about one
hour from the junction.
McKellar Hut to Greenstone Hut
4 hr 30 minutes6 hr 30 minutes, 18 km
Cross the bridge in front of the hut and go down river on the
true left. Take care crossing side streams which may become
hazardous during heavy rainparticularly Jean Batten Creek
south of McKellar Hut. Travel is easy, alternating between
tussock ats and bush, until reaching a gorge through an old
landslide. Then cross Steele Creek over a swing bridge. The
track veers right to pass the privately owned Steele Creek
Access
The Caples and Greenstone Tracks start from the car
park at the end of the Greenstone Road, 86 kilometres
from Queenstown. From Glenorchy to the Greenstone
Shelter takes an hour on a gravel road. Between
Kinloch and Greenstone Road end are a number of
fords that can be ooded in heavy rain and become
impassable. In summer, both ends of the tracks are
serviced daily by transport companies. Both tracks can
be started at Howden Hut on the Routeburn Track;
an hours walk from The Divide (Milford Road, 80 km
from Te Anau).
Topographical map references are NZTopo50
Sheets CB9 Hollyford, CB10 Glenorchy and CC9
North Mavora Lake.
Lodge and the 20-bunk Greenstone Hut is 12 hours from
here.
The track stays on the true left and meanders down past
a large white, terraced bank. It continues down the open
valley before entering the bush. A junction in the track is
reached soon after; turning right leads to a bridge over a
gorge to the Greenstone Hut and the Mavora Walkway.
Greenstone Hut to road end 35 hours, 12 km
To continue down the valley to the Greenstone car
park, return to the junction via the gorge bridge.
On the Greenstone Track the valley narrows sharply as
the river enters a long gorge section. About halfway down
the gorge is Slip Flat, a large open area. If the creek across
the at is in ood, theres an emergency bridge upstream.
Below Slip Flat may be avalanche prone in winter. Where
the track re-enters the bush it follows the Greenstone
to its junction with the Caples. Parts of the track cross
private land and stock may be present. At the conuence
of the two rivers take the swing bridge that leads to the
Caples left bank, and join the Caples Track, a 30-minute
walk downstream to the car park.
Other options
McKellar Hut to Lake Howden
1 hr 30 min2 hr 30 min, 7 km
From McKellar Hut the track skirts to the left of Lake
McKellar and through forest to the 28-bunk Howden Hut
on the Routeburn Track. Bookings are essential from late
October to late April.
Upper Caples Hut to Greenstone Hut
via Steele Creek 1012 hours
This track is suitable for experienced trampers only.
Upper Caples Hut to Howden Hut
45 hours, 12 km
From Upper Caples Hut, the track climbs to subalpine
McKellar Saddle, then descends down well formed
zigzags to Lake McKellar. Follow the signs to the 28-bunk
Howden Hutbookings are essential from late October
to late April.
MavoraGreenstone Walkway
From Greenstone Hut this is a 23 day walk to Mavora
Lakes, forming part of Te Araroa/The Long Pathway.
A track guide for this walkway is available.
Safety
Read the DOC publication Planning a trip in the
backcountry.
Plan properly for your tripensure you have a
capable leader and are challenging yourself within
your limits.
Advise someone you trust of your
planned trip and expected return
via the outdoor intentions on the
Adventure Smart website
www.adventuresmart.org.nz
Check the weather forecast and the latest information
on hazards and facilities before you enter the area.
Carry a sleeping bag, cooking utensils, sufcient
food, raincoat, over trousers, gloves, hat and
layers of warm clothes. Physical tness and good
equipment will make all the diference to the
enjoyment of your trip.
Keep to the track. If you get lost, nd shelter, stay
calm and try to assist searchers.
Although the tracks are not closed in winter,
avalanche danger may be present, and snow may
make travel very difcult, even on the valley oors.
Water is generally safe to drink, but hut users may
wish to boil or sterilise it for their own protection.
Your safety is your responsibility.
!