Lonely Planet Publications

503

County Donegal
You could spend weeks losing yourself in wild and woolly Donegal. The countys stark
beauty captivates you and, over time, seeps down to your core. Tortuous country roads
skirt stark mountains, rugged sea cliffs, craggy peninsulas, remote Gaeltacht communities,
sheep-studded pastures, pristine strands, icy streams and horizons carpeted with bog and
heather. Reaching up to the islands northernmost point, the county seems eternally braced
to hold its own on its own. For although political and economic turmoil have eased off, the
county endures its fair share of Atlantic squalls to stave off complacency.
Due to its isolation, Irelands second-largest county (only Cork is larger) feels like its own
country. It was severed from its traditional province when most of Ulster became Northern
Ireland, and it is cut off from the rest of the Republic by the extended finger of County
Fermanagh. Donegal was always a stubbornly independent land, largely ignored by those
in Dublins distant driving seat.

HIGHLIGHTS

Malin Head

Multifaceted Natural Beauty The surf, cliffs,

hills and forests of Dunfanaghy (p524)

Take to the Hills The alpine magic around

Dunfanaghy

the Glen Gesh Pass (p516)

Griann of
Ailech

Wild Isolation Dramatic end-of-the-earth

scenery at Malin Head (p537)

Clifftop Vertigo Europes highest sea cliffs,

Slieve League (p514)

Ancient Encounter The views from Griann

of Ailech (p540) hilltop ringfort

POPULATION: 147,250

Slieve
League

Glen Gesh
Pass

AREA: 3001 SQ KM

COUNTY DONEGAL

The Donegal experience is largely about weather, for here theres no need to set sail to
brave the sea the sea charges ashore and its mists ride stiff winds over fields and into
the towns. Storms arrive unannounced, and just as abruptly break into brilliant sunshine,
transforming the blue and grey into sparkling greenery. When the weather is kind, Donegals
better beach resorts can rival any in Europe, and make perfect destinations for a summer
getaway. Once youve attained the proper come-what-may attitude, youll know youve been
tamed by this uncompromising land.

504 C O U N T Y D O N E G A L H i s t o r y

History
Donegal is covered with pre-Christian tombs
and other prehistoric titbits dating back as
much as 9000 years. The arrival of the Celts
and their fort-building endeavours provided
the origins of the countys Irish name, Dun
na nGall (Fort of the Foreigner). Christianity
is also a strong suit in the countys history,
thanks to St Colmcille, a local man who not
only spread the good word here, but exported
it across the sea to Scotland too.
Until the early 17th century, the county
was roughly divided between two clans, the
ODonnells and the ONeills, but the Plantation of Ulster that followed their defeat and
flight from Ireland reduced the county to a
subservient misery. The partition of Ireland

lonelyplanet.com

in 1921 compounded Donegals isolation, as

it was cut off from Derry, which it served as
a natural hinterland. Many locals along the
coast have benefited from rising real-estate
values, and pockets feel like an affluent vacationland. While inland communities remain
largely rural, the growth of Letterkenny, near
the border of Northern Ireland, indicates the
Republics economic upturn has reached this
far-flung region.

Climate
In many ways, Donegal seems to defy its
northerly location; its thermometers rarely
drop below zero, and in summer the temperature can top 25C. This is largely due to
the warm caress of the Atlantic Gulf Stream
0
0

COUNTY DONEGAL

20 km
12 miles

See Inishowen Peninsula Map (p534)

A T L A N T IC
OCEAN

Ballyhillin

Glengad
Head

Trawbreaga
Bay

Rive Foyle
r

ve
Ri

Culdaff Inishowen
Ballyliffin
Fanad Head
Head
Dunaff
Carndonagh
Mulroy
Stroove
Clonmany
Tory Island
Sheep
Lenan
Bay
Horn Haven Rosguill
Head
Gleneely Greencastle
Bay Peninsula
Head
Portsalon
Tory
Glentogher
Sound
Dunree
Downings
Dunfanaghy
Moville
Rosnakill
Magheraroarty
Inishowen
Carrigart Fanad
Peninsula
Port-na-Blagh
Ards
Bloody
Forest
Peninsula
Falcarragh Muckish
Foreland
A2
Buncrana
Park
Mountain
Carrowkeel
Brinlack Gortahork
Creeslough
Lough
(670m)
Fahan
Foyle
Rathmullan
Derrybeg
Muff
Tievealehid
Milford
Mt
Lough Inch
Burnfoot
Bunbeg
(431m)
Errigal
Swilly
Limavady
Donegal
Ramelton
(752m)
Glenveagh
Bridge
Burt
A2
Rosses Airport Gweedore Lough
National Park
End
City of
Arranmore Bay
Kilmacrennan
Crolly Nacung
Derry
Island
Dunlewy
Annagry
Derry
Airport
N13
Leabgarrow Burtonport
N56
Gartan
Lough Slieve
Derryveagh
The Anure Snaght
Mountains
Letterkenny
Green
DERRY
Rosses
(683m)
Island
Churchill
Boylagh Bay
Dungloe
E16-6
Crohy Head
Newmills
F
Maghery
Claudy
a
N56
N14
ugh
A5
Bay
an
N13
Ri
Doochary
Gweebarra
Raphoe
ve
R iv e
Dunnamanagh
r
r Fin
Bay
Fintown
De
n
Rossiger
ele
Lough
Iniskeel
Narin
Dawros Portnoo
Finn Valley
Sperrin
Finn
Lifford
Strabane
Lough
Head
Mountains
Rosbeg
Aghla
Stranorlar
Doon
N15
Mountain
Loughros More Bay Loughrea N56
Cranagh
Peninsula
(598m)
Sperrin
Ballybofey
Castlefin
Loughros Beg Bay
Plumbridge
Glenties
Maghery
Slievetooey
ck
Ardara
Glen
Sta ins
e
Slievetooey
N15
Head
Bluounta
Gortin
Assarancagh
M
Glen
Castlederg
Waterfall
Lough
Bay Doonalt
Newtownstewart
Glencolumbcille Glen
Eske
Malinmore
Gesh Pass N56
Creggan
Malinbeg Carrick
Inver
TYRONE
A5
Donegal
Lough
Slieve
Kilcar Killybegs Bruckless Inver
Derg
League
Mountcharles
Fintragh
Dunkineely Bay
Station
Bay
Teelin
Omagh
Island
N32
Doorin
Muckross
McSwynes
Point
Head
A505
Pettigo
St John's Bay
Rossnowlagh
Point
N15
Kesh
Donegal
N47
Dromore
Tullan Ballyshannon
A5
Lower
Rive
Bay
Strand
r Erne
Fintona
Lough Lisnarrick
Mullaghmore
Erne
Bundoran
Irvinestown
Ballygawley
Belleek
Head
Rosscor
Killadeas
Mullaghmore
A2
Augher
N32
Lough
Cliffoney
Melvin
Blaney
Aughnacloy
A4
B81 Derrygonnelly
N15
Garrison
Trory
Tempo
Grange
Fivemiletown
N46
Dartry
Ballyconnell
SLIGO Mountains
FERMANAGH
LEITRIM
Enniskillen
Carney
MONAGHAN

along the countys vast coastline. But when

the winter winds and heavy rain are ripping
through your semiprotective parka, it doesnt
really matter that the official temperature is
a tolerable 4C it can feel arctic. Conversely,
when the summer gauge shows that its less
than 20C, youll soon find yourself stripping
down to your swimsuit.

Language
Roughly one-third of the county lies in the
Gaeltacht, where Irish is the lingua franca and
road signs challenge the reader to perform
linguistic gymnastics to get the right pronunciation. Donegal Irish has a markedly different
pronunciation from that spoken elsewhere,
and even native speakers from southern Ireland can have difficulty understanding the
local vernacular. Rest assured, however, that
virtually everyone speaks English and will
do so without hesitation. It would behove
you, though, to familiarise yourself with the
Irish place names; although we use English
transliterations, their Irish names are included
in brackets.

Getting There & Away

Donegal Airport (%074-954 8284; www.donegalairport
.ie; Carrick Finn) has flights to/from Dublin (from
30, 50 minutes, daily) and flights to Glasgow
Prestwick (from 65, Friday and Sunday). Its
in the townland of Carrick Finn (Charraig
Fhion) about 3km northeast of Annagry along
the northwestern coast. There is no public
transport to the airport, so youll have to get
there by your own steam; there are car-rental
desks in the terminal.
The City of Derry Airport (%028-7181 0784; www
.cityofderryairport.com) is just beyond the countys
eastern border, in Northern Ireland.

Getting Around
The bus is your main transport option if you
dont have your own car.
Private bus company Lough Swilly (in Letterkenny %074-912 2863, in Derry 028-7126 2017; http://
home.clara.net/sjp/nibus/lswilly.htm) traverses the

county thoroughly.
Private coaches operated by Feda ODonnell
(% 954 8114; www.fedaodonnell.com) serve the
western half of the county from Crolly
to Bundoran.
This is very much walking and cycling
country. Plenty of Donegal walking guides
can be found in tourist offices and larger

D O N E G A L T O W N I n f o r m a t i o n 505

bookshops. Recommended companions include New Irish Walks: West and North by
Tony Whilde and Patrick Simms and Hill
Walkers Donegal by David Herman, which
have details of many walks mentioned in
this chapter.
When driving, be prepared for switchback roads, directions only in Irish, signs
hidden behind vegetation, signs pointing
the wrong way, signs with misleading mileage or no signs at all. Most of all, prepare
yourself for reckless young drivers, who
casually put the lives of their fellow motorists at risk.

DONEGAL TOWN
%074 / pop 2450

Its picturesque enough, but Donegal town

is more of a gateway to the county than a
destination in itself. The town has plenty of
hotels and pubs, and an old castle guards a
bend in the River Eske, just a block from
the central diamond. County Donegals true
treasures are just a few hours drive to the
northwest of here.
This spot was once a stamping ground
of the ODonnells, the great chieftains who
ruled the northwest from the 15th to 17th
centuries. These days its a far more sedate
spot. If youre coming from the south, Donegal town makes a pleasant pit stop.

INFORMATION

Bank of Ireland (the Diamond) One of several banks

with ATM and bureau de change.
Blueberry Cybercafe (%972 2933; Castle St; per hr
4; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Internet caf above the

TOP FIVE SCENIC RIDES

The coast highway from Dunfanaghy

(p524) to Gweedore (p520)

The 100-mile loop of isolated Inishowen

Peninsula (p534)
The vertiginous heights of Horn Head

(p524)
The lingering arc through stunning
Glenveagh National Park (p530)
The snaking switchbacks of Glen Gesh

Pass (p516)

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

Malin
Head

lonelyplanet.com

506 D O N E G A L T O W N S i g h t s

lonelyplanet.com

0
0

DONEGAL TOWN

200 m
0.1 miles

Tir
ch

on

ail
lS
t

To Ard na Breatha (2km);

Harveys Point (6km);
Lough Eske (6km)
11
To N56;
Donegal
Town Independent
Hostel (800m);
Bluestack Centre
(7km)

19
Kil

lyb

l
oo P
terl
Wa

eg

sR
d

N e w Rd

St

r
Wate

To N15;
Letterkenny (40km);
Strabane (66km);
Derry (70km)

15

g
id
17

St

St

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Diamond Obelisk.......................5
Doherty's...................................6
Donegal Bay Waterbus...............7
Donegal Castle...........................8

Castle
16

Br

INFORMATION
Bank of Ireland...........................1 C3
Blueberry Cybercafe...............(see 13)
Four Masters Bookshop..............2 C2
Post Office.................................3 C1
Tourist Office.............................4 B3

14
13
6
20

C2
D2
B4
C2

The
Diamond
5

2
18

Ma

in

pe
Up

rM

ain

St

St

Qua

y S
t

COUNTY DONEGAL

C2
D3
B1
C3

Es
k

EATING
Blueberry Tearoom.......................13 C2
Donegal's Famous Chipper..........14 D2
La Bella Donna.............................15 B2
Market House..............................(see 9)

r
ve
Ri

DRINKING
Dunnion's.....................................16 B2
Old Castle....................................17 C2
SHOPPING
Magee's.......................................18 C2

To N15;
Franciscan Friary &
Donegal Craft Village (1.5km);
St Ernans House Hotel (3km);
Ballyshannon (18km); Bundoran
(22km); Sligo (48km)

Blueberry Tearoom. Check in at the counter downstairs

before going up.
Four Masters Bookshop (%972 1526; the Diamond)
A good spot for books, maps and travel guides.
Post office (Tirchonaill St) North of the diamond.
Tourist office (%972 1148; donegal@failteireland
.ie; Quay St; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun
Jul-Aug, 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) South of the
diamond.

SIGHTS

Donegal Castle
Overlooking a wicked bend of the Eske, Donegal Castle (%972 2405; Castle St; adult/child 3.70/1.30;
h10am-6pm mid-MarOct, 9.30am-4.30pm Nov-Dec) remains an imperious monument to both Irish
and English might. Built by the ODonnells in

TRANSPORT
Bike Shop......................................19 B1
Bus Stop.......................................20 C2

1474, it served as the seat of their formidable

power until 1607, when the English decided
to be rid of pesky Irish chieftains once and
for all. Even in defeat, Rory ODonnell was no
pushover, though. To stop the English getting
their grubby hands on it, he torched his own
castle before fleeing to France in the infamous
Flight of the Earls. Their defeat paved the way
for the Plantation of Ulster by thousands of
newly arrived Scots and English Protestants,
thereby creating the divisions that still afflict
the island to this day.
The castle was rebuilt in 1623 by Sir Basil
Brooke, along with the adjacent three-storey
Jacobean house. Much of the castle is gutted
today, but enough has been preserved that its
worth a look-see.

D O N E G A L T O W N A c t i v i t i e s 507

is a remote country hostel-cum-community

centre with squeaky-clean rooms and a basketball court. Its also a handy point for hikers tackling the Bluestack Mountains. Its
often left unmanned, however, so call ahead.
Its 7km north of town, signposted from the
roundabout northwest of town.

Midrange & Top End

Donegal Town Independent Hostel (%972 2805;

Atlantic Guest House (%972 1187; Main St; s/d from

35/45; p) Its not homey or particularly
friendly, but this busy old guesthouse, just
a block from the diamond, is a convenient
and reasonable choice. It has 16 cheery and
clean rooms, some with private bathroom.
Mattresses are a little thin.
Bridges B&B (% 972 1082; Waterloo Pl; s/d
40/70) Facing the castle and the river, this
small, family-run B&B is simply tidy, quiet
and comfy.
Ard na Breatha (%972 2288; www.ardnabreatha.com;
Drumrooske Middle; s/d 65/130; p) This is a terrific
little guesthouse, with a more countrified setting 2.4km out of town. It has modern rooms
furnished to the highest standard and charming service. The restaurant is open for dinner
at weekends (reservations required). Its signposted off the road to Lough Eske.
Abbey Hotel (%972 1014; www.whites-hotelsireland
.com; the Diamond; s/d from 70/130; ps) In a great
stone building (118 rooms) at the heart of
town, the Abbey offers a bit of snazzy, contemporary flair on the inside. Rooms out
the back overlook the river. The hotel offers
access to a gym and has a stylish restaurant
and bar.
Central Hotel (%972 1027; www.centralhoteldonegal
.com; the Diamond; s/d 80/140; ps) The Abbeys
twin is another impressive stone building that
presides over the town centre. It offers all the
comfort and mod cons of a contemporary
establishment. Back rooms have river views
and the bar features live music. Enticing specials
are offered in winter.
St Ernans House Hotel (%972 1065; www.saint

[email protected]; Killybegs Rd, Doonan; dm/d 16/40;

p) Privately operated by a friendly couple

ernans.com; R267; s/d from 150/230, dinner 52; hMay-Oct;

p) If youve ever dreamt of having your own

and their dog, this Independent Holiday Hostels of Ireland (IHH) hostel, 1.2km northwest
of town off the Killybegs Rd (N56), has gaudily painted, but exceptionally clean dorms and
private rooms. Its within walking distance of
town. Pick up can be arranged.
Bluestack Centre (% 973 5564; www.donegal
bluestacks.com; Drimarone; dm/f 16/50; pw) This

private island, youll love this place. This magnificent country hotel (built by a nephew of
Wellington in 1836) is set on its own wooded
islet about 3km south of Donegal town, signposted off the road to Laghey and accessible
via a causeway. Its hard not to feel serene with
lapping water on all sides. Children under six
are not catered for.

A fantastic way to explore the highlights of

Donegal Bay is to take one of the boat tours
run by Donegal Bay Waterbus (%972 3666; www
.donegalbaywaterbus.com; Donegal Pier; adult/child 10/5).
Aboard a 20m tour boat, the 1-hour tour
covers everything from historic sites to sealinhabited coves, stopping to admire an island
manor and a ruined castle along the way. The
tour runs up to five times daily during the
summer and at least once a day the rest of the
year, depending on the weather. Call to check
departure times.

Fishing
Permits are required for fishing in the local
rivers. Kits and information are available from
Dohertys (%972 1119; Main St; h9am-6pm Thu-Tue).

SLEEPING
B&Bs are plentiful around Donegal town,
and the tourist office can assist with
making bookings.

Budget

COUNTY DONEGAL

In 1474 Red Hugh ODonnell and his wife,

Nuala OBrien, founded a Franciscan friary by
the shore south of town. It was accidentally
blown up in 1601 by Rory ODonnell while
laying siege to an English garrison, and little
remains. What makes it famous is that four of
its friars, fearing that the arrival of the English
meant the end of Celtic culture, chronicled
the whole of known Celtic history and mythology from 40 years before the Flood to
AD 1618 in The Annals of the Four Masters,
still one of the most important sources of
early Irish history. The obelisk (1937), in the
diamond, commemorates the work, copies of
which are displayed in the National Library
in Dublin.

Boat Trips

SLEEPING
Abbey Hotel..................................9
Atlantic Guest House................... 10
Bridges B&B..................................11
Central Hotel...............................12

Diamond Obelisk

ACTIVITIES

10

12

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

508 A R O U N D D O N E G A L T O W N L o u g h E s k e

Donegals Famous Chipper (%972 1428; Upper Main

St; fish & chips 5-6; h12.30-11.30pm Thu-Tue) Youve
probably never heard of this joint, whose
fame spreads as far as the town limit, but
its an excellent place to grab an order of
fried cod. You can eat at the Formica counter or take yours to a nearby pub (of which
there are plenty).
Blueberry Tearoom (%972 2933; Castle St; mains
7-9; h 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Piping hot baked
goodies, panini (type of Italian sandwich)
and excellent pies make this snug tearoom
a local favourite at any time of the day. Its
lunchtime specials are also worth fighting
your way in for, and it dabbles in everything
from French to Cajun dishes.
Market House (%972 1014; the Diamond; mains
15-25; h noon-2pm, 5-9pm) With tartan carpeting and stone walls, the Market House
somehow manages to not feel touristy or
old-fashioned. The kitchen tackles surf and
turf mainstays with a contemporary ethos:
fresh, light and, above all, fine tasting.
La Bella Donna (%972 5790; Bridge St; mains 1025; hnoon-5pm & 7-9.30pm) The Irish enthusiasm
for Italian is not lost on far-flung Donegal,
as the lively and well-dressed weeknight
crowds at this snazzy place attest. Drop by
for pizzas, pastas and steaks. Lunchtime
panini and espressos are a forte.

DRINKING
Donegals nightlife is a bit hit and miss. Any
place with a live-music session on is likely to
be your best bet.
Dunnions (Bridge St) The owner of this oldschool pub, next to the river, plays the
button-box accordion, and his pals join him
in a cilidh most nights. It often has the best
craic in town.
Old Castle (%972 1062; Castle St) A grey-stone
pub built to match the neighbouring castle
with attractive stonework, corbel windows
and a low wooden ceiling. Its a relaxing
spot to enjoy a sip of stout and swap banter
with locals.

SHOPPING

Donegal Craft Village (%972 2225; Ballyshannon Rd;

h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) Theres not
a single canned leprechaun or Guinness Tshirt in sight at this complex of craft studios,
1.5km south of town. Instead, it showcases
quality pottery, crystal, hand-woven fab-

rics, jewellery and more look for the

Raw Studio, selling sculpted bogwood by
Michael Griffin.
Magee (%972 2660; www.mageedonegal.com; the
Diamond; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Magee is a small
department store with a room devoted to
Donegal tweed.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Frequent Bus ireann (% 913 1008; www.bus

eireann.ie) services connect Donegal with Sligo
(11, 1 hours, six daily), Galway (17 3
hours, two to three daily) and Killybegs (6,
35 minutes, three daily) to the west; Derry
(11.50, 1 hours) and Belfast (16, 3
hours) in the North; and Dublin (16, four
hours, six daily) in the southeast. The bus
stop is on the western side of the diamond.
Feda ODonnell (%954 8114; www.fedaodonnell
.com) runs to Galway (single/return 15/22,
3 hours, twice daily, three on Friday and
Sunday) via Ballyshannon, Bundoran and
Sligo. Departures are from the tourist office. Fares within Donegal range from 6
to 10.
McGeehan Coaches (% 954 6150; www.mgbus
.com) runs buses to Dublins Busras bus station (single/return 16/23, four hours, two
daily Monday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, one daily Tuesday to Thursday) from
in front of the garda barracks across from
the tourist office.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

A R O U N D D O N E G A L T O W N R o s s n o w l a g h 509

of the lake are just one of this B&Bs selling

points. Running for 40 years, it has evolved
into a large rambling house with charming
rooms and an old-fashioned garden. Its 4km
north of Donegal town off the Letterkenny
road (N15). Take the second left and follow
the signs.
Harveys Point Country Hotel (%074-972 2208;

Deep in the adjacent forest is a Franciscan

friary (%985 1342; admission free; h10am-8pm MonSat) with tranquil gardens; the way of the
cross takes you through a hillside smothered with rhododendron to spectacular
hill-top views.
Smugglers Creek (%985 2367; smugcreek@eircom
.net; s/d 45/80; hEaster-Oct; p) is perched dramatically on the hillside above the bay. This
pub, restaurant and guesthouse is justifiably
popular for its excellent food and sweeping
views. Room 4 has the best vantage point and
a balcony into the bargain. The pub features
live music on summer weekends.
Once an extravagant 19th-century fishing
lodge, the Sandhouse Hotel (%985 1777; www.sand
house-hotel.ie; d 189-319; hApr-Dec; pw) continues to project a festive atmosphere and is
a fine beach getaway.

www.harveyspoint.com; Harveys Point; d 199-299, 4-course

dinner 50; pi) This is an elite retreat. With

expansive grounds lapping the edge of the

lake, it has large guestrooms, Jacuzzi baths, a
top-notch French restaurant and a helicopter
pad thats not just for show. Harveys is 6km
north of Donegal town.

Getting There & Away

From the diamond in Donegal, take the N56
to Killybegs. About 300m past the bridge,
turn right following the signs to Harveys
Point.

ROSSNOWLAGH
%071 / pop 50

The old-world resort of Rossnowlagh (Ross

Neamblach), southwest of Donegal town, has
a dazzlingly white Blue Flag beach, which extends for nearly 5km and is a popular surfing
spot (gentle rollers here). The huge Sandhouse
Hotel stands beside a humble caravan park
along the beach, and thats about it, really.
But if youre after some relaxing rays, this
may be your spot.

BALLYSHANNON
%071 / pop 2230

Pretty Ballyshannon (Bal tha Seanaidh),

crawling up a steep incline above the River
Erne, is a world away from the tacky excess of
nearby Bundoran, and makes a more tranquil
base to explore the coastline.

Information
Bank of Ireland (Market St) Has an ATM.
Post office (Market St) Near the junction.
Tourist information centre (h9.30am-1pm, 2-5pm,
closed Oct-Apr) A skeletal operation at the bus station.

GETTING AROUND

Head to the Bike Shop (%972 2515; Waterloo Pl; per

day/week 10/60) for bike hire and information
on cycling in the area.

AROUND DONEGAL
TOWN
LOUGH ESKE
Despite its optimistic name, meaning Lake
of the Fish, this picturesque spot northeast of Donegal town isnt the fishpond it
once was, but its still terrific territory for
cycling or walking over the majestic Blue
Stack Mountains.

Sleeping & Eating

Ardeevin Guest House (%074-972 1790; http://ardeevin
.tripod.com; Lough Eske; s/d 50/75; p) Great views

WALK: BLUE STACK MOUNTAINS

If youre not satisfied with admiring the Blue Stack Mountains from a distance, you can take a
rewarding, though difficult, trek along a circuitous 18km path through wild and rugged terrain.
A complete circuit should take about seven hours, and entails summiting several peaks topping
600m. The highest of these, at 674m high, is Blue Stack, from which the views of southern
Donegal are spectacular. Alternatively, you can walk the short (though steep) distance to Eas
Doonan waterfall, which drops some 30m and is truly spectacular after a good rain. This walk
can be done in about one hour. Note that in wet weather the trail can be a bit boggy, surely
slowing you down.
The trail head is easy to find, though it sounds complicated. Off the N15 from Donegal Town,
look for the signs for Lough Eske. There are three turnoffs, all leading to Lough Eske Dr. Follow
the road counterclockwise towards the northern end of the lake, where the road hairpins twice.
Off the second hairpin take the small road leading to Edergole, where youll find a walker sign
and space to park your car.
It would be wise to collect more detailed information and perhaps a map before attempting the full circuit. The OSI 1:50,000 map No 11 covers this territory. The information centre
in Donegal Town (see p506) is excellent. The Mountain Views website (http://mountainviews
.ie) is a useful resource with input from hikers who have explored the Blue Stacks and other
mountains in Ireland.

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

EATING

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510 A R O U N D D O N E G A L T O W N B u n d o r a n

Sights & Activities

ALLINGHAMS GRAVE

As a kid, the poet William Allingham (1824

89) scribbled his first attempts at verse on a
window in the AIB bank on Castle St where
his dad was the manager. The wordsmith, who
is best remembered for his poem The Fairies,
is now buried in the graveyard beside St Annes
Church, the grave marked simply poet. The
church is signposted left off Main St after
Dorrians Imperial Hotel.

Shannons Corner (%985 1180; Main St; mains 6-10;

h8.30am-4.30pm) In-the-know locals pile into
this unassuming bistro for its home-cooked
lunches and smashing sarnies.

Drinking
Fin McCools (%985 2677; Main St) A traditional pub
with occasional music sessions.
Thatch Pub (Bishop St) This picturesque place,
just off the top of Main St, is a great place to
grab a pint and a few snapshots.

Getting There & Away

Waterwheels have been harnessing the rivers

power for centuries at Abbey Assaroe (%985

There are regular daily Bus ireann (%074-912

1309) services to Bundoran (2.10, 10 minutes), Sligo (9, 50 minutes), Galway (17, 3
hours), Donegal (5, 25 minutes), and Dublin
(16, 4 hours; via Enniskillen, Cavan and
Navan). The bus station is between the bridge
and the Gallogley Jewellers clock tower.
Feda ODonnell (%074-974 8114) buses depart
from opposite the bus station for Donegal
(5, 15 minutes) and Letterkenny (6, one
hour) twice daily, four times on Friday. For
Sligo (6, 45 minutes) and Galway (15, three
hours) they leave from outside Maggies Bar,
south of the river near the roundabout, twice
daily, three times Friday and Sunday.

in the late 12th century by Cistercian monks

from County Roscommon. Now restored to
working order, the mills are open as a heritage
centre. Take the road to Rossnowlagh (R231)
and after 2km, signs indicate Abbey Mills on
the left.

Festivals & Events

The exuberant Ballyshannon Folk & Traditional
Music Festival (www.ballyshannonfolkfestival.com) arrives for the last weekend in July or the first in
August. The schedule is available online.

Sleeping & Eating

Lakeside Caravan & Camping (% 985 2822;
[email protected]; Belleek Rd; camp sites from 17
hMar-Sep) Nestling on the shore of Assaroe

Lake, this four-star camping ground is worth

the trip. Its especially well equipped for kids.
From Ballyshannon, take the N3 for 1km
towards Belleek.
Breesy Centre (%982 2925; www.breesycentre.com;
Cashelard; dm/d 20/40, breakfast 5; pw) This remote country hostel has sparkly and cheerful
dorms with private bathrooms, and a tranquil
village setting 6km northeast of Ballyshannon. Head north on the N15, turn east after
5km (theres a sign for Cashelard) and continue 1km. Youll see the hostel, opposite a
modern-looking pub.
Cavangarden House (%985 1365; www.littleireland
.ie/cavangardenhouse; Donegal Rd; s/d 44/70; p) This
Georgian country house is a beauty amid
expansive lawns trees alive with birdsong.
Guestrooms have sturdy antique beds, and
evening meals can be arranged. To find it,
take the N15 3km north of town and look
for the signs.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

which are usually held in April. For more

information, check out the website of the
Irish Surfing Association (www.isasurf.ie).
The youth-oriented Donegal Adventure Centre (%984 2418; www.donegal-holidays.com; Bay View
Ave; surf lessons per 3hr 35) rents gear and runs allyear surf tuition. It also offers kayaking and
gorge walking, and for those taking courses,
dorm beds are available (25).
Bundoran Surf Co (% 984 1968; www.bundoran
surfco.com; h9.30am-7pm) offers lessons in kitesurfing and power-kiting. A day-long lesson
costs 120. The company also rents standard surf gear (board and wetsuit per half day
30) and gives surf lessons (per three hours
35). Surf and accommodation packages can
be arranged (see the website for details).
HORSE RIDING

Family-run, friendly and efficient Donegal Equestrian Holidays (%984 1977; www.donegal
equestrianholidays.com), just outside the town, is
Bundorans big draw for nonsurfers. The centre offers rides over the dunes and along the
beach, lessons for all levels and pony camps
for families. Call ahead for reservations. A
one-hour trail ride (45) is your simplest
option, but longer rides are available.

BUNDORAN

A R O U N D D O N E G A L T O W N B u n d o r a n 511

baths. See the boxed text, p471, for more on

Irish seaweed therapy.

Sleeping
All of the following are in the more pleasant
west end of town.
Homefield Hostel (%984 1288; homefield@indigo
.ie; Bayview Ave; dm/d 18/40; p) This 260-year-old
building was once Viscount Enniskillens holiday play pad, and later served as an altogether
more restrained convent. It now has the look
and feel of a fun and well-lived-in, budgetoriented lodge. The six-bed dorms and private
rooms are in good nick and there are lots of
cosy lounges.
Bay View B&B (%984 1237; Main St; s/d 40/64; p)
Facing the beach, this stately Edwardian town
house has a historic feel but is no less inviting
for it. Guestrooms are a bit utilitarian, but all
are en suite and those in front have unobstructed views of waves crashing ashore.
Fitzgeralds Hotel (%984 1336; www.fitzgeralds
hotel.com; s/d 65/110; p) Bundorans most polished operation is this small hotel, across the
street from the strand. Its an older building that has been thoroughly updated with
ample personality. Rooms are spacious and
many have excellent views. The hotel has an
excellent restaurant-bistro.

%071 / pop 1680

WATER ACTIVITIES

Eating

Its one of Irelands tackiest holiday resorts,

with an assortment of unappealing arcades
and fast-food diners, but not all is lost in Bundoran (Bun Dobhrin). The big draw here is
the surf, for which Bundoran is renowned.
The strand and nearby dunes are beautiful,
offering scenic spots for walking, sunbathing
and horse riding. If you stay here, mosey over
to the less commercial west end of town.

Bundorans beach isnt safe for swimming,

so the place to get wet is Waterworld (%984

La Sabbia (%984 2253; Bay View Ave; lunch 6-9, dinner

9-24; h9am-late) This colourful Mediterranean
bistro has tables spilling out onto the front
porch and attracts a lively, upbeat crowd. The
menu features seafood specialties (the oyster
bar is a good starting point) along with tasty
pastas and pizzas. Its also a good spot for
strong coffee or a panini.

1172; www.waterworldbundoran.com; adult/child under

8 8.50/3.50), a fun facility with a swimming

pool and water slides. Its on the beach. Also

on the premises, Aquamara (%984 1173; baths
from 18; h 11am-7pm) provides a decidedly
more sedate form of bathing in its seaweed

Information

SURFS UP

AIB Bank (Main St) Has an ATM and bureau de change.

Post office (Main St)
Tourist office (%984 1350; bundoran@irelandnorth

It isnt exactly a secret (among surfers, anyway) that the west coast of Ireland offers some of
the best surf breaks in Europe. Travellers from as far off as Australia and South Africa regularly
arrive in towns like Bundoran and Easky (County Sligo) with their minds singularly focused on
the beach breaks, reef breaks and point breaks for which the coast is known.
Towns noted for their surfing activity in Donegal include Rossnowlagh (p509), Bundoran
(opposite) and Dungloe (p519). In Sligo, the surf is often up in Strandhill (p469) and Easky (p471).
Achill Island (p454) in County Mayo also has good surfing. All of these places have outfitters that
can take care of the needs of the travelling surfer. If youre not a surfer, many companies will
teach you how to do it. All levels can be accommodated for.
The Irish Surfing Association has a useful website at www.isasurf.ie. Surfers can also get recent
information from fellow travellers at www.globalsurfers.com. See p702 for more on surfing and
swimming.

west.ie; the Bridge, Main St; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri midMarSep, 10am-4pm Fri & Sat Octmid-Mar) Seasonal
office opposite the Holyrood Hotel.

Activities
SURFING & KITE-SURFING

The breaks of Tullan Strand, just north of

the town centre, offer some of the best surfing in Europe, and Bundoran hosts the annual Irish National Surfing Championships,

COUNTY DONEGAL

ABBEY MILLS

8966; Abbeylands; admission free; h11am-7pm Jun-Sep,

2.30-7pm Sun Oct-May; p). The site was founded

COUNTY DONEGAL

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512 S O U T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L M o u n t c h a r l e s t o B r u c k l e s s

Fitzgeralds Bistro (%984 1336; Main St; mains 1624; h6.30-9pm Wed-Sun Easter-Oct, Fri & Sat only Oct-Easter)
Hidden within Fitzgeralds Hotel, this popular bistro looks a little like a hunting lodge,
but with cosy plush booths and a friendly
staff. Although seafood is the specialty, the
kitchen is equally adept with meat and veg.
A fun spot.

Drinking
Brennans (%984 1810; Main St; hmidnight-4am FriSun) is a quiet and neighbourly old pub in the
heart of town. Its a refreshing departure from
the brash and spangly places up the street.
Bus ireann (%074-912 1309) buses stop on Main
St. There are direct daily services to Sligo
(8, 45 minutes), Galway (17, 2 hours),
Donegal (6, 40 minutes) and more. Ulsterbus/Translink (%028-9066 6630; www.ulsterbus.co.uk)
has three services daily Monday to Friday
(one Saturday) to Belfast (17.50, 3 hours)
via Enniskillen (12.50, 1 hours). Feda
ODonnell (%074-974 8114) buses from Crolly
(6, 2 hours) travelling to Galway (14,
three hours) stop in Bundoran outside the
Holyrood Hotel twice daily, three times on
Friday and Sunday.

SOUTHWESTERN
DONEGAL
MOUNTCHARLES TO BRUCKLESS
Donegals scenery-o-meter starts to crank up
when you reach the coast, just to the west of
Donegal town, and it steadily intensifies as
you head north. The first coastal communities youll reach are tiny but no less beautiful. Apart from a scattering of pubs and
cafs in Mountcharles and Dunkineely, there
are few places to eat (especially in winter),
so stock up before leaving Donegal town
or Killybegs.

Mountcharles

the top of this hillside village was once the

backdrop for stories of fairies, ghosts, historic battles and mythological encounters.
For it was at this point that local boy Samus MacManus, a poet and seanacha (storyteller) of international repute, practised the
ancient art in the 1940s and 1950s.

Dunkineely
%074 / pop 350

The dozy little village of Dunkineely (Dn

Cionnfhaolaidh or Dn Cionnaola) is situated
a little further west. From here, a minor road
runs down the improbably thin finger of land
poking into the sea at St Johns Point. Theres
a beach with a little bit of sand and sweeping
coastal views, and the waters around the point
are a prime diving site.
Blue Moon Hostel (%973 7264; http://homepage
.eircom.net/~bluemoonhostel; Main St; camp sites per person
5, dm/d 12/30; p) is an Independent Hostel

Owners of Ireland (IHO) hostel that looks

unexceptional, even a little dowdy. Its threetier bunk beds are comfy enough and it offers
two kitchens, a washer/dryer and plenty of
information on local goings-on such as deepsea diving and sea angling.
Castle Murray (%973 7022; www.castlemurray.com;
St Johns Point; s/d 90/140; mains 17-24; h6.30-9.30pm;
p) Overlooking the sea cliffs, this is no castle,

but a rather small and welcoming hotel in an

old beach house. It has 10 playfully updated
guestrooms, each conveying a cultural theme
the dcor is sure to date badly, but the rooms
are unquestionably comfortable and the sunset views cant be beat. Breakfast is superb,
and its little wonder, for the place is equally
known for its restaurant, which specializes in
seafood with some admirable French influences. Prawns and monkfish in garlic butter
is a specialty.

Bruckless
%074 / pop 180

The scattered settlement of Bruckless (An

Bhroclais) is the next stop, about 2km west
of Dunkineely. Horse riding and pony trekking are available at Deanes Equestrian Centre

%074 / pop 430

(% 973 7160; [email protected]; Darney,

Bruckless; h10am-4pm), including lessons, five-

This hillside village of Mountcharles (Moin

Sarlas) is the first settlement along the
coastal road (N56) southwest of Donegal
town. About 2km south of the village is a
safe, sandy beach. The shiny-green pump at

minute pony rides for children (5) and

longer excursions (adult/child from 17/20).
Advance booking is required.
The luxury, ivy-clad, Georgian B&B Bruckless House (%973 7071; www.iol.ie/~bruc/bruckless

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

.html; d 120; hApr-Sep; p) is simply gorgeous.

Fronted by a traditional cobbled farmyard, it

is home to a stud farm for Connemara ponies. Guests will enjoy wandering its 18 acres
of gardens, which lope down to the shore.
The interior is furnished with antique oriental influences. Its signposted off the main
road approximately 3km after Dunkineely.

Getting There & Away

Bus ireann (%972 1008) bus 490 from Donegal to Killybegs stops near the Village Tavern in Mountcharles, the Inver post office
in Bruckless and the Dunkineely Furniture
Centre in Dunkineely.

KILLYBEGS
%074 / pop 1400

A fishy fragrance welcomes you to Killybegs

(Ceala Beaga), Irelands most important
fishing port and home to a large fishmeal
processing plant. Apart from that, its a fairly
charming town, with a number of oddly angled streets colliding at its diamond, a block
from the pier. Deep-sea angling is the top
tourist activity here, but Killybegs is also
a convenient base for the spectacular cliff
scenery beyond Kilcar.
The community-run tourist office (%973
2346; Quay St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) is in a cabin
near the harbour. The Bank of Ireland (Main St)
has an ATM and bureau de change.

Sights & Activities

A right turn in town up a steep hill brings
you to St Marys Church, outside which stands
the extraordinary tombstone of Niall Mr MacSweeney, head of the MacSweeney clan, one
of Donegals ruling families before 1607. It
clearly depicts a chain-mailed warrior with
a plumed helmet, his battle-axe raised and
sword at the ready. This warlike figure is a
gallowglass, a Scottish mercenary who first
came to the north and west of Ireland in the
late 13th century.
Several operators offer fishing expeditions
with the opportunity to catch pollock, cod
and whiting. Killybegs Angling Charters (%973
1144; www.killybegsangling.com; Blackrock Pier) runs
fishing charters (400 for the boat). The Harbour Store (%973 1569; the Harbour), by the wharf,
sells fishing gear.
The wild, secluded Fintragh Bay, about 3km
west and down a big-dipper of a road, is fun

S O U T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L K i l l y b e g s 513

to explore and the water is clean and safe

for swimming.

Sleeping
Ritz (%973 1309; www.theritz-killybegs.com; Chapel Brae;
dm/d/f 20/60/70; pw) For the price, this place
aint at all bad. It is an IHO hostel, but rooms
provide the privacy and comfort of a hotel.
It has an enormous modern kitchen, colourful rooms with private bathroom and TV,
and cosy common areas. A light breakfast is
included. Its a good family choice.
Seawinds B&B (%973 2003; www.seawindsireland
.com; the Diamond; s/d 40/60; p) In the heart of
town, this friendly B&B has basic and cheery
rooms, all with no-fuss holiday-home dcor.
Another good choice for families.
Tara Hotel (%974 1700; www.tarahotel.ie; Main St;
s/d 80/120; iw) Just a few skips from the
harbour, this thoroughly modern hotel gives
Killybegs an unexpected tinge of minimalist
swank. Guestrooms come with the usual frills
(including TV and internet). Ask for one of
six sea-view rooms with balcony (costing 10
extra in summer).

Eating
Shines (%973 1996; Killybegs; fish & chips 6; h11am2pm, 4-11.30pm Wed-Sat, 3-11.30pm Sun) If the official
town aroma has you craving something with
gills and fins, this spic-and-span chip shop can
take care of your needs without further ado.
It does a brisk takeaway business. Salt yours
down and take it to the beach.
22 Main Street (%973 2876; www.22mainstreet
.com; Main St; mains 11-22; h5-10pm) If you crave
something other than seafood but your partner has to have something fished from the
local waters, then this Mediterranean-style
bistros your ticket. In the heart of the town,
it cranks out pizzas and pastas, along with
piping hot seafood pies, fish and chips and
prime Irish beef.
Kitty Kellys (%973 1925; www.kittykellys.com;
Kilcar Rd; mains 16-20; h6.30-9.30pm daily EasterSep, Thu-Sun Oct-Mar) Run by a gregarious local

celebrity, this 200-year-old farmhouse restaurant puts on what feels like an intimate
dinner party. As you would expect in such
a setting, the menu is traditional Irish, with
some praiseworthy seafood selections. Its
on the coast road, 5km west of Killybegs.
Reservations recommended.

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

Getting There & Away

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514 S O U T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L K i l c a r & C a r r i c k

Getting There & Away

Bus ireann (%912 1008) service 492 to Donegal
(6, 30 minutes) from Killybegs runs four
times daily Monday to Saturday. Bus 490
heads west to Kilcar (4, 20 minutes) and
Glencolumbcille (8, 45 minutes) once daily
Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and twice
on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. In July
and August an extra bus runs daily, and buses
continue to Malinmore twice daily, Monday
to Saturday.

KILCAR & CARRICK

Kilcar (Cill Chrtha) and its more attractive
neighbour Carrick (An Charraig) are small
country towns that make good bases for exploring the breathtaking coastline of southwestern Donegal, especially the stunning sea
cliffs at Slieve League. Kilcar is also famous
for the manufacture of Donegal tweed. Just
outside Kilcar is a small, sandy beach.
This is lovely walking country, particularly
if you dont mind hoofing up and down a few
hills. Kilcar Tourism has some pointers for
walking the Kilcar Way; ask at the Asleann Cill
Cartha (%973 8376; Main St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri), a
community centre that provides information
for tourists.
More tourist information is available
from the cultural centre, Ionad Cultrach
Sliabh Liag (Slieve League Cultural Centre; %973 9077;
www.sliabhleague.com; Teelin, Carrick), which also
has a pleasant coffee shop. There are no
banks. The post office is off Main St past
OGaras pub.

Sights
STUDIO DONEGAL

Beside the community centre is the Studio Donegal (%973 8194; www.studiodonegal.ie; the Glebe Mill,
Kilcar; admission free; h10am-5.30pm Mon, 9am-5.30pm
Tue-Thu, 9.30am-5pm Fri), a shop where tweeds are

spun and loomed by hand. Sometimes visitors are invited upstairs to see spinners and
weavers in action.
SLIEVE LEAGUE

The Cliffs of Moher get more attention

from photographers, but the Slieve League
is higher. Driving up to these spectacular
polychrome sea cliffs, the highest in Europe dropping some 600m into the sea, is a
hair-raising but exhilarating experience.
From the car park, theres a path skirting

up around the near-vertical rock face to the

aptly named One Mans Pass.
Take the turn-off signposted Bunglass from
the R263 at Carrick, 5km northwest of Kilcar, and continue beyond the narrow track
signposted Slieve League to the one thats
signposted Bunglass.

Activities
Three walks that start in Kilcar are collectively
known as the Kilcar Way. From Teelin, experienced walkers can spend a day walking north
via Bunglass and the cliff-top One Mans Path
not for the faint hearted to Malinbeg, near
Glencolumbcille. It shouldnt be attempted in
windy conditions or if bad weather is likely to
impede visibility.

Sleeping & Eating

Dn Uln House (%973 8137; dunulunhouse@eircom
.net; Coast Rd; camp sites 10, dm 15, d 45; p) The
sweeping view down to a ruined ringfort is
what strikes you first about this inn, run by
an older couple. If youre a single traveller
open to sharing a room, theyll arrange a bed
for the night, hostel-style. Accommodation
is simple but homey, and the owners can be
helpful with travel plans, Gaelic lessons and
genealogy. Breakfast (7.50) is optional. A
little camping ground is ensconced in the
tiered hillside. The house is 1km west of
the village.
Derrylahan Hostel (%973 8079; derrylahan@eircom
.net; Derrylahan, Kilcar; camp sites 12, dm/d 14/36; p)

The best option for hostellers and campers is

this friendly IHH hostel. Its a working farm,
and the hostel is very well run and friendly.
The dorms are comfortable, there are plentiful cooking facilities and a 20-person group
house. It also rents bikes. Its 3km west of
the village on the coast road. Pick-ups can
be arranged.
Ostan Sliabh Liagh (%973 9973; www.ostansliabh
liag.com; Carrick; s/d 35/70; bar food 4-9; p) In the
heart of the sweet little hamlet of Carrick,
this B&B is above the towns largest pub
and offers rooms that are barebones but pass
military inspection for tidiness. Most rooms
are en suite. The pub grub isnt bad, either.
Blue Haven (%973 8090; Kilcar-Killybegs Rd; mains
12-25; h6-10pm, noon-3pm Sun) Its modern and
stylish, but this restaurant aspires merely to
serve home cooking prepared with fresh
local produce. The place can be quite festive,
and its sunset views are stunning.

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S O U T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L G l e n c o l u m b c i l l e & A r o u n d 515

Getting There & Away

Bus ireann (%912 1309) service 490 connects
Kilcar and Carrick with Killybegs and Glencolumbcille once daily Monday to Friday (twice
daily Saturday, once Sunday). In July and August an extra bus runs Monday to Saturday.
McGeehan Coaches (%954 6150) has a daily service
from Glencolumbcille to Dublin that stops
at Carrick and Kilcar. There are extra buses
in summer.

GLENCOLUMBCILLE & AROUND

%074 / pop 255

Its not much more than a gash in the rocks,

making Glencolumbcille (Gleann Cholm
Cille, Glen of Columbas Church) a remote
and starkly beautiful coastal haven. Approaching the town via the Glen Gesh Pass perfectly
illustrates how cut off Glencolumbcille is from
the rest of the world, as you drive through
miles and miles of hills and bogs before the
ocean appears and there youll see a narrow,
green valley and the small Gaeltacht village
within it.
This spot has been inhabited since 3000 BC
and youll find plenty of Stone Age remains
throughout the collection of tiny settlements.
It is believed that the 6th-century St Colmcille
(Columba) founded a monastery here (hence
the valleys name) and incorporated Stone Age
standing stones called turas into Christian
usage by inscribing them with a cross.
At midnight on Colmcilles Feast Day (9 June)
penitents begin a walkabout of the turas and
the remains of Colmcilles church before
attending Mass at 3am in the local church.

Information
Teach Alasa (%973 0116; Cashel; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat,
1-5pm Sun Apr, Jun & Sepmid-Nov, 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat,
noon-6pm Sun Jul & Aug) dispenses limited tourist

information. There are no banks or ATMs but

the post office has a bureau de change.

Sights & Activities

FATHER MCDYERS FOLK VILLAGE

A museum with a mission, this folk centre

(%973 0017; www.glenfolkvillage.com; Doonalt; adult/child
3/2; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Easter-Sep;
p) was established by the forward-thinking

Father James McDyer in 1967 to freeze-frame

traditional folk life for posterity. Its housed
in a huddle of replicated thatched cottages
of the 18th and 19th centuries, with genuine
period fittings. The shebeen (illicit drinking

place) sells unusual local wines (made from

ingredients such as seaweed and fuchsias)
alongside marmalade and whisky truffles.
Admission includes a tour. Its 3km west of
the village, by the beach.
BEACHES

There are two sandy beaches with brisk waves

in Doonalt, immediately west of the village.
Another gorgeous little beach can be found at
Malinbeg, a perfect sheltered bay bitten out of
low cliffs and filled with firm red-tinged sand.
Its just down the coast road, in the direction
of Slieve League.
WALKING

A couple of loop walks will get you off into

the blustery wilds beyond the town. The Tower
Loop (10km, two to three hours) takes you
up over some stunning coastal cliffs, while
the more arduous Drum Loop (13km, three to
four hours) heads into the hills, northeast
of the town. Both walks start and finish at
Colmcilles church. At the time of research,
finishing touches were being put on a new
walking centre (%973 0302), near the beach,
which will offer information, guided walks
and showers.

Courses
Oideas Gael (%973 0248; www.oideas-gael.com; hmidMarOct), at the Foras Cultir Uladh (Ulster
Cultural Foundation) 1km west of the village centre, offers a range of cultural activity
holidays adult courses in Irish language and
traditional culture, including dancing, pottery
and music. The centre also leads hillwalking
programmes in the Donegal highlands. Threeday courses cost from 100. Accommodation can be arranged youll have a choice
of homestay or self-catering, with prices of
around 20 to 40 per person per night.

Sleeping
Dooey Hostel (%973 0130; www.dooeyhostel.com; camp
sites/dm/d 7.50/13/28; p) This ageing IHO hostel
has character in spades, in part because its
owned by an elderly, wildhaired chainsmoker
who calls herself Mad Mary ODonnell. The
hostel is actually built into the hillside, with
rock and dripping greenery bulging into its
inner corridor. It has a superb hilltop view
to boot. Facilities are rustic, but each dorm
has its own bath and kitchen. A group house
for 20 is available. Drivers should take the

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

%074 / pop 260

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516 S O U T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L M a g h e r y & t h e G l e n G e s h Pa s s

turn beside the Glenhead Tavern for 1.5km;

walkers can take a short cut beside the Folk
Village. Cash only.
Malinbeg Hostel (%973 0006; www.malinbeghoste

(20, five hours, twice daily). McGeehan also

runs to Ardara, Dungloe and Glenties.

.com; Malinbeg, Glencolumbcille; dm/s/d 16/25/40; hclosed

Dec & early Jan; p) The Dooeys opposite is the

%074 / pop 640

thoroughly modern and comfortable Malinbeg. It sports spotless rooms with private
bathroom and scores big for its proximity to
a beautiful beach, a food store and restaurant.
Call ahead for a pick-up.
Glencolumbcille Hotel (stn Ghleann Cholm Cille;
%973 0003; www.glenhotel.com; s/d 60/110; p) This
canary-coloured hotel stands amid the rolling
countryside, with its own golf course slowly
taking shape at its rear. Its 40 classy rooms
are extremely spacious. For something special, request the suite facing the coast. To
get there, continue past the folk museum
towards Malinbeg.

Eating
During the winter there are few eating options within the town itself. The food store,
next to the Malinbeg Hostel, can provide
ready-made sandwiches.
An Cistin (the Kitchen; % 973 0213; Glencolumbcille;
mains 10-22; h9am-9pm Easter-Oct) You wont find
a better spot to chow down than this cafrestaurant attached to Oideas Gael. It serves
up a surprisingly gourmet selection, including
superb seafood, to a soundtrack of mellow jazz.
Silver Strand House (%973 0220; Malinbeg; mains
15-20; h9am-9.30pm daily May-Sep, Sat & Sun Oct-Apr;
p) For those staying towards the tip of Ma-

linbeg, this catch-all restaurant by the beach

proffers a great fishermans platter so you can
sample most of the local haul.

Shopping
Glencolumbcille Woollen Mill (%973 0070; www.rossan
knitwear-glenwoolmill.com; Malinmore; h10am-8pm MarOct, to 5.50pm Nov-Feb) is the place to stock up on

MAGHERY & THE GLEN GESH PASS

A tiny village on the northern edge of the
peninsula, Maghery has a picturesque waterfront, and if you follow the strand westward, youll get to a rocky promontory full
of caves. During Cromwells 17th-century
Irish destruction tour, 100 villagers sought
refuge here but all except one were discovered and massacred.
About 1.5km east of Maghery is enchanting Assarancagh Waterfall, beyond which is
the beginning of a 10km marked trail to the
Glen Gesh Pass (Glean Gis, meaning Glen
of the Swans), one of the most beautiful
spots in Europe. Its almost alpine in appearance; cascading mountains and lush
valleys dotted with isolated farmhouses
and small lakes. If youre driving or cycling, you can get to the pass directly from
Glencolumbcille by following the road signs
for Ardara.

ARDARA
%074 / pop 580

Exquisite and scenically positioned Ardara (rd an Rtha) represents the heart of
Donegals knitwear and hand-woven tweed
tradition. There isnt a whole lot going on
here, although the town has a couple of sterling pubs. Once youve restocked on winter
woollies, head for the switchbacks of the
beautiful Glen Gesh Pass, which begins just
west of the town.
Tourist information is available from the
Triona Design visitor centre (see Shopping,
opposite). On the diamond theres an Ulster
Bank with an ATM; the post office is a short
walk away on Main St.

woollies. Rossan knitwear is manufactured

locally, but you can also pick up Donegal
tweed jackets, caps and ties alongside lambswool scarves and shawls. Its 3km southwest
of Cashel.

Festivals & Events

Getting There & Away

Sleeping & Eating

Bus ireann (%912 1309) service 490 leaves for

Killybegs daily (8, 45 minutes) with an extra
service on Saturday and in July and August.
McGeehan Coaches (%954 6150) leaves from s
Pub for Killybegs (5, one hour) and Dublin

Drumbarron Hostel (%954 1200; jfeeneyardara@eircom

.net; the Diamond; dm/d 16/36) This Georgianstyle two-storey house has utilitarian dorms
furnished with comfortable bunk beds. Its
equipped with a large kitchen and has a wel-

The trad-music Cup of Tae Festival (www.cupof

taefestival.com) takes place at the end of April
or early May. It includes a school of music,
as well as dancing and storytelling.

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coming parlour. Knock at the B&B opposite

if theres nobody in the hostel. Cash only.
Drumbarron House (%954 1200; jfeeneyardara@
eircom.net; the Diamond; s/d 40/70) In the family
for three generations, this large B&B is efficiently run and cosy. Its owner is an artist,
who has hung modern art all over the house.
Cash only.
Green Gate (% 954 1546; http://thegreengate
.eu; Ardvally, Ardara; s/d from 40/70; p) This idyllic hill-top B&B is owned by a gregarious
Frenchman named Paul Chatenoud, and if
you stay here chances are youll get to know
him rather well (hes a character who likes to
spend time with his guests). Accommodation
is spread out over several patchily restored
cottages and the compound has hares who
casually trim the grass and sweeping views
down to the bay. Follow the tiny pictorial
signs of a gate beyond Woodhill House.
Woodhill House (%954 1112; www.woodhillhouse
.com; d 98-150; p) This 17th-century manor
house is rich in history and old-world style.
The courtly gardens are a huge bonus, and
its cosy restaurant has a wine list to leave
any connoisseur drooling. Its 400m southeast of the centre.
Nancys Bar (%954 1187; Front St; mains 8-12)
This pub-restaurant successfully makes its
guests feel as though theyre sitting in Nancys living room. It serves superb seafood
and chowder, and is also the best place in
town to savour a social pint or two.

Entertainment
Corner House (%954 1736; the Diamond) is a good
spot to listen to an Irish music session
(nightly from June to September) while
savouring a drop or two of the black stuff.
Occasionally, someone will spontaneously
break out in song, and if the mood is right
the rest of the pub will join in.

Shopping
Ardara is a great place to stock up on winter
woollens and warm tweed. There are half a
dozen outlets specialising in local knitwear.
Triona Design (%914 1422; www.trionadesign.com;
Main St; h9am-7pm) There is a staff of weavers here who keep traditional skills alive
while demonstrating their techniques for
visitors. Its a good place to learn about
the professions rich history and purchase
quality items.

S O U T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L D a w r o s H e a d 517

Kennedys (%954 1106; Front St) In business for

over a century, Kennedys helped establish
Ardaras reputation as a sweater mecca.

Getting There & Away

In July and August, Bus ireann (%912 1309)
service 492 from Killybegs (4, 25 minutes)
stops three times daily Monday to Friday,
in each direction, outside ODonnells in
Ardara. June to mid-September McGeehan
Coaches (%954 6150) runs a service to Dublin
(17.50, 4 hours) twice daily via Donegal
(4, 50 minutes).

Getting Around
Don Byrnes of Ardara (%954 1638; Main St), east
of the centre, rents bikes for 15/60 per
day/week.

DAWROS HEAD
The outer reaches of beautiful Loughrea
Peninsula, north of Ardara, glistens with a multitude of tiny lakes cupped by gentle, undulating
hills. The twin resort towns of Narin and Portnoo
also tend to be swamped with summer weekenders, attracted by the beautiful wishboneshaped Blue Flag beach at Narin.
The beachs sandy tip points towards the
protective bulk of Iniskeel island, and at low tide
you can walk out to this island. St Connell, a
cousin of St Colmcille, founded a monastery
here in the 6th century. Hardly any trace of the
monastery remains but the island is nevertheless studded with interesting early medieval
Christian remains.
Another adventurous diversion is to track
down Lough Doon, 3km south of Narin, in the
centre of which sits the 2000-year-old Doon
Fort, a fortified oval settlement. To reach the
fort, you need to hire a rowing boat (around
10) from an adjacent farm. Pick a day thats
not too windy.
If the fort whets your appetite for archaeology, pay a visit to the Dolmen Ecocentre (%074954 45010; www.dolmencentre.com; Kilclooney; h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri), which can point you towards several

other prehistoric sites, including a delightful

tortoiselike passage tomb a short walk up a
track left of the church.
Also on the peninsula, hemmed in by
grassy dunes, is Tramore Beach. In 1588 part
of the Spanish Armada ran aground here.
The survivors temporarily occupied OBoyles
Island in Kiltoorish Lake, but then marched
to Killybegs, where they set sail again in the

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

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518 S O U T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L G l e n t i e s

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N O R T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L D u n g l o e & A r o u n d 519

Girona. The Girona met a similar fate that

year in Northern Ireland, with the loss of over
a thousand crew (see the boxed text, p661).

Mon-Sat Apr-Sep), beside the old courthouse at

the western end of town, has a fusty ragbag

of local artefacts.

Theatre. In Ballybofeys Protestant church

is the grave of Isaac Butt (181379), founder
of the Irish Home Rule movement.

Sleeping

Sleeping & Eating

Narin and Portnoo have B&Bs aplenty, which

are generally open from April to September.
Tramore Beach Caravan & Camping Park (%074-

Campbells Holiday Hostel (%955 1491; www.campbell

ireland.com; dm/d 12/28; hApr-Oct; p) A spic-andspan hostel with colour-coded six-bed dorms
and comfortable doubles, plus a couple of
kitchens and a laundry. Its hidden behind
the museum as you enter from Ardara town
on the N56.
Brennans B&B (%955 1235; Main St; s/d 45/70; p)
This family run B&B is right on the main drag,
among a crop of inviting pubs and shops.
Guest rooms are comfortable and lovingly
tended to by the elderly matron of the house.
Highlands Hotel (%955 1111; http://homepage.eir

Sleeping & Eating

955 1491; [email protected]; Rosbeg; camp sites 14)

This remote place has 24 sandy camp sites

sheltered amid dunes, just a short hop from
the beach. Take the road from Ardara to
Narin then turn left, following the signposts
to Tramore Beach.
Lackagh Mor Cottages (% 074-954 5935;
[email protected]; Lackagh; s/d 35/60; p) This assemblage of stone cottages makes a great
romantic getaway or family vacation spot.
The ocean is a short walk from here, or you
can just admire it from your cottage. Its just
outside the village of Portnoo.

Getting There & Away

From Monday to Saturday in July and August, Bus ireann (%074-912 1309) service 492
runs between Killybegs and Portnoo (9, 55
minutes, twice daily).

GLENTIES
%074 / pop 790

This sure is a tidy town, just as the sign informs you as you roll in on the highway.
Glenties (Na Gleannta) may be a little too
fussily kept up you have the feeling an old
lady will follow you around with a broom
and a dustpan but theres no denying its
beautiful location at the foot of two valleys
with a southern backdrop laid on by the Blue
Stack Mountains. Its a good spot for fishing and there are some cracking walks in the
surrounding countryside.
A summer school (www.patrickmacgill.com) is held
in August in honour of plucky Patrick MacGill
(18911963), the navvy poet who was sold
by his parents at a hiring-fair, later escaped
and eventually ended up writing for the English Daily Express. Glenties is also linked with
playwright Brian Friel, whose play (and later
star-studded film), Dancing at Lughnasa, is
set in the town.
On the main street theres a Bank of Ireland, with an ATM and bureau de change,
and a post office.
St Connells Museum & Heritage Centre (%955
1227; Main St; adult/child 2.50/1; h10am-1pm & 2-4.30pm

com.net/~highlandshotel; Main St; s/d 52/96; mains 12-24)

This laid-back country hotel dominates the

western end of town. It serves excellent allday food in substantial proportions using the
freshest of produce. Rooms are nothing fancy,
but are properly kept up and spacious.

Entertainment
Spot the thatched roof and you might assume
Paddys Bar (%955 1158; Main St) is a relic favoured
by old men. Inside, though, its completely remodelled and seems to attracts all ages. It has
a pool table and features traditional cilidh
sessions several nights a week.

Finn Farm Hostel (%074-913 2261; Cappry, Ballybofey;

camp sites/dm/d 10/15/30; p) This hostel occupies a working farm, replete with horse stables. The place exudes old Irish character,
and is quite friendly, though finicky guests
sometimes complain its run down. It also
offers horse-riding lessons and organised
walks. Finn Farm is about 2km southwest of
Ballybofey; the turning is signposted simply
Hostel off the N15 Donegal road.

Getting There & Away

Bus ireann (%074-912 1309) express service 64
between Galway (17, 4 hours) and Derry
(7, 35 minutes) via Sligo (12, two hours),
Donegal (6, 30 minutes) and Letterkenny
(5, 25 minutes) stops up to six times daily
in Ballybofey. Local buses connect Ballybofey
with Killybegs and also Letterkenny.
McGeehan Coaches (%074-954 6150) runs services from Glencolumbcille (8, 1 hours) to
Letterkenny (5, 35 minutes), with a stop in
front of the Fintown post office at 8.40am
and 1.20pm Monday to Saturday and
5.55pm Sunday. Going the other direction,
it stops in Fintown at 11.35am and 5.45pm
Monday to Saturday, 3pm Sunday.

Getting There & Away

Bus ireann (%912 1309) service 492 from Donegal to Dungloe stops off in Glenties (7, 45
minutes) one to two times daily Monday
to Friday.

NORTHWESTERN
DONEGAL

FINN VALLEY & AROUND

There are few places in Ireland that are

more savagely beautiful than northwestern Donegal. Humans have been unable to
tame the wild and breathtakingly spectacular landscape. The rocky Gaeltacht area between Dungloe and Crolly is known as the
Rosses (Na Rossa), and contains numerous
tiny lakes and a coastline of clean, sandy
beaches. Further northwest, between Bunbeg and Dunfanaghy, the scenery is softer
but more stunning to many visitors, this is
the epitome of what unspoilt Ireland should
look like. Offshore, the islands of Arranmore
and Tory are both beautiful and fascinating
to those eager for a glimpse of a more traditional way of life.

Off the beaten track, even by Donegal standards, the Finn valley makes a serene escape for
fishing, hill walking or cycling. The River Finn
is a good salmon-fishing river. Theres also good
hill walking on the Blue Stack Mountains and
along the Ulster Way (p700), but you do need
to be equipped with maps and provisions.
Finn Farm Hostel can dispense maps and advice for the area. A long, one-day trek could
start from the hostel and end in Glenties.
The main town is Ballybofey (Bealach
Fich), linked to adjoining Stranorlar by an
arched bridge over the Finn. Theres a locally run tourist office (%074-913 2377; Main St;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in the Ballybofey Balor

DUNGLOE & AROUND

%074 / pop 950

A Number One pop song from the late

1960s, Mary from Dungloe, by Emmet
Spiceland, helped put this little pit stop on
the map. Each year the town hosts an international film festival, during which a new
Mary is crowned, keeping the flame alive
after all these years. Apart from that, though,
dont expect too much greatness from Dungloe (An Clochn Liath). Its standout feature is that its the hub of the Rosses, with
ample lodging and services for anyone visiting this spectacular locale. The nearby village
of Kincasslagh is far more picturesque.
The tourist office (%952 1297; h10am-2pm &
3-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Jun-Sep) is off Main
St behind the Bridge Inn. The Bank of Ireland
(Main St) has an ATM and bureau de change.
The post office (Quay Rd) is off Main St.

Activities
Fishing for salmon and trout on Dungloe
River and Dungloe Lough is popular and
you can get tackle and permits from Bonners
(%21163; Main St). The nearest good beach is
6km southwest of town at Maghery Bay.
Kevin Tobin, a former national surf
champ, runs the local Dooey Surf School (Scoil
na dTonn; %952 2468; www.dooeysurfschool.com; 2hr
lesson 25).

Festivals & Events

Crooner Daniel ODonnell, pin-up to pensioners across England and Ireland, returns
to his home town to host the 10-day Mary
from Dungloe Festival (%952 1254; www.maryfrom
dungloe.com) in late July/early August. Thousands pack the town for all kinds of revels
culminating in a pageant where the years
Mary is selected.

Sleeping & Eating

Iggys B&B (%954 3112; Main St, Kincasslagh; s/d 25/50;
hJun-Sep; p) This country inn is a treasure.
Rooms are kept tidy with grandmotherly
care and the downstairs pub is a right social spot, with old Iggy himself pulling pints.
Seafood dishes are also served here. Nothing
fancy, just heart-warming.
Careys Viking House Hotel (% 954 3295;
[email protected]; Kincasslagh; s/d 60/80;
p) This family-run hotel is a polished op-

eration with a restaurant, views of the beach

and proximity to a challenging golf course.

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

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COUNTY DONEGAL

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Its a modern hotel, but small and with a

traditional approach. Rooms are impeccable
and cheerful.
Riverside Bistro (%952 1062; Main St; mains 14-24;
h12.30-3pm & 6-10pm) A lively French theme
pervades this colourful little bistro, which is
a good spot for candle-lit dinners and a choice
of surprisingly daring Irish and international
dishes, including a few for vegetarians.

rugged, with few houses to disturb the sense

of isolation. A walking path, the Arranmore Way,
circles the island (allow three to four hours)
and off the southwestern tip is Green Island,
a bird sanctuary for corncrakes, snipes and
a variety of seabirds that you can see from
Arranmore (but not visit). Youll hear mostly
Irish spoken on Arranmore Island, although
most of the people are bilingual.

Getting There & Away

Sleeping & Eating

McGeehan Coaches (%954 6150) runs a service

from Dungloe to Dublin (17.50, 4 hours,
two daily, three Sunday) via Glenties (4, 30
minutes) and Donegal (6, one hour). No
transit serves Kincasslagh.

BURTONPORT

Arranmore Hostel (%952 0015; www.arainnmhor.com;

Leabgarrow; dm/d 14/32) A short walk left of the
ferry terminal, and beautifully positioned
next to a beach, is this civilised 30-bed hostel.
Originally a post office, its owners live off-site
so call ahead.
Arranmore House Hotel (%952 0918; www.ar

%074 / pop 345

ranmorehousehotel.ie; Plohogue; d 40-60; mains 11-19)

This pocket-sized port village is the embarkation point for Arranmore Island, which looks
near enough to wade to. Burtonport (Ailt an
Chorrin) has attracted some famously offthe-wall characters over the years. In the 1970s,
the Atlantis commune was established here,
and practised a primal therapy that earned it
the nickname the Screamers. Eventually it
relocated to the Colombian jungle. Later, the
three Silver Sisters chose Burtonport to live
out their Victorian lifestyle, complete with
Victorian dress. The town seems perfectly
ordinary today, though it is pretty.
For fishing trips contact Inishfree Charters
(%954 2245; www.burtonport.com; boat per day 270). Itll
do half-day excursions. Alternatively, you can
check in at the cabins by the pier.
The giant fibreglass lobster clinging precariously to the outer wall at Lobster Pot (%954
2012; Main St; mains 10-20; hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm) is
an unsubtle clue to the menu here: freshly
netted seafood. Its a fine, neighbourly sort of
place with an obsession for football.
Lough Swilly (%912 2863) buses stop in Burtonport en route from Dungloe to Derry.

A modern and perky hotel, with a fine little

restaurant and comfortable rooms. Its near
the beautiful beach at Aphort Strand.

ARRANMORE ISLAND
%074 / pop 600

Blessed by dramatic cliff faces, sea caves and

clear sandy beaches, the small island of Arranmore (rainn Mhr) lies a short ferry trip
from the mainland. Measuring just 9km by
5km, the island has been inhabited since the
early Iron Age (800 BC), and a prehistoric triangular fort can be seen on the southern side.
The western and northern parts are wild and

Entertainment
The islands all-night festivities are renowned.
Half a dozen pubs put on turf fires and traditional music sessions, and some stay open 24
hours a day to sate thirsty fishermen.

Getting There & Around

The Arranmore Ferry (%952 0532; www.arainnmhor
.com/ferry) plies the 1.5km from Burtonport to
Leabgarrow (9 return; 25 minutes; seven
Sunday, eight Monday to Saturday July and
August and three Sunday, five Monday to
Saturday September to June). It also takes
cars (26 return).
Once there, you can save your legs by
taking an island tour with ODonnell Taxis
(%087-260 6833). Bikes (per day 15) can be hired
at the port.

GWEEDORE & AROUND

%074 / pop 1390

The Irish-speaking district of Gweedore

(Gaoth Dobhair) is a loose assembly of small
towns between the coast and the impressive
peak of Mt Errigal. The area is commonly
used as a base for trips to Tory Island and
Glenveagh National Park. Its rugged coast,
dotted with white, sandy beaches, has been
overrun by holiday-home mania. Consequently, Derrybeg (Doir Beaga) and Bunbeg
(Bun Beag) virtually run into each other along
the R257. A few kilometres east on the R258,

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N O R T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L B l o o d y F o re l a n d 521

a few hotels are scattered along the roadside

thats Gweedore for you.
Thankfully, the developers havent yet ventured inland. Away from the coast, habitations
are few and far between, and the only feature
breaking up the bleak landscape is the presence of dozens of small fishing lakes.
On the main road in Bunbeg theres an
National Irish Bank with an ATM and bureau de change, while Derrybeg has a post
office. Ferries depart Bunbeg for Tory Island
(see right).

Activities
The most beautiful walking trail in the area
is the Tullagobegley Walk (Silid Tullagobegley), a historical trample over Tievealehid
(Taobh an Leithid; 431m), which was used
for centuries by locals carrying corpses to
the 13th-century graveyard in Falcarragh.
The 5-hour walk begins at Lough Nacung
(Loch na Cuinge), just east of Gweedore off
the N56. The path brings you past some
19th-century silver mines to Keeldrum, a
small townland on the outskirts of Gortahork, before finishing up at the Tullagobegley graveyard in Falcarragh.
Unfortunately, the walk is not waymarked
so we strongly advise that you carry an OS
Sheet 1 of the area.

Sleeping & Eating

Screag an Iolair Hil Hostel (%954 8593; isai@eircom
.net; Tor, Crolly; dm/d 12.50/36; hMar-Oct) This is an
enchanting little farmyard hostel enveloped
in the remote, rocky landscape 5km above
Crolly, southwest of Gweedore on the N56.
It combines unforced rustic charm with
knowledgeable owners who welcome guests
as old friends highly recommended.
Sleepy Hollows Campsite (% 954 8272; www
.sleepyhollows.ie; Meenaleck, Crolly; camp sites 18; p)

The grassy camp sites here are in secluded

woods, thoughtfully removed from the ungainly caravan parking lot. Its 200m past
Leos Pub in the village of Crolly.
Bunbeg House (Teach na Cidhe; %953 1305; www
.bunbeghouse.com; s/d 50/80) This is a sweet, sweet
spot. In a converted corn mill, this B&B sits
directly by Bunbeg harbour, within earshot
of wooden boats knocking against each
other. Its a cosy place filled with wood panelling and rattan furniture, and was immortalised in Tony Hawkes much-loved Round
Ireland with a Fridge travelogue.

Seaview Hotel (stn Radharc na Mara; %953 1159;

www.visitgweedore.com/seaview.htm; Bunbeg; s/d from
80/140; p) This historic hotel, on the main
road, was revamped and brought up to date
just a few years ago. It retains much of its
historic appeal, and its beachfront location is
unbeatable. It has 40 spacious rooms.
Tbhairne Hughie Tim (mains 12-26; h1-9.30pm)
Attached to the Seeview Hotel, this place
whips up good bar food.
Gola Bistro (dinner 45; h6-10pm) An elegant
place to enjoy a relaxed four-course meal.
Leos Tavern also does good food.

Entertainment
You never know wholl drop by for a singalong at Leos Tavern (%954 8143; Meenaleck, Crolly),
Donegals most famous pub. It is owned by
Leo and Baba Brennan, parents of Mire, Ciaran and Pl, who were the core of the group
Clannad. Another sibling, Enya, needs no
introduction to fans of contemporary Irish
music. The pub glitters with gold, silver and
platinum disks and various other mementos
of the successful kids. It is in the townland of
Meenaleck, about 3km south of Gweedore. At
Crolly, take the R259 1km towards the airport,
and look for the signs for Leos.

Getting There & Away

Feda ODonnell (%954 8114) runs a service
twice daily (three Friday and Sunday) from
Gweedore to Letterkenny (5, 1 hours),
Donegal (6, 1 hours), Sligo (10, 3 hours)
and Galway (20, 5 hours).

BLOODY FORELAND
Named for the crimson colour of the rocks
at sunset, Bloody Foreland (Cnoc Fola) is a
dramatic stretch of coast that regularly bears
the full brunt of the Atlantics fury. Unfortunately, vacation homes have entered into the
scenery here. In any case, the foreland is little
more than something to admire on your way
elsewhere. The coast road to the north and
south of here nevertheless remains wonderfully remote, scenic and ideal for cycling.

TORY ISLAND
%074 / pop 190

Swept by sea winds and stung by salt spray, the

remote crag of Tory Island (Oilen Thora) has
taken its fair share of batterings. With nothing
to shield it from savage Atlantic squalls, its a
tribute to the hardiness of Tory Islanders that

COUNTY DONEGAL

520 N O R T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L B u r t o n p o r t

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N O R T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L Fa l c a r r a g h & G o r t a h o r k 523

THE BUNGALOW BLITZ

TORY ISLAND NAIVE ART

Although Donegal is Irelands most remote corner, it hasnt been spared the real estate boom, and
in spots its coastline has fallen prey to an insidious invasion a bungalow blight. As rows of kit
housing have gone up, the natural beauty of some parts of the county have clearly diminished
over the past 15 years. Areas such as the Bloody Foreland, long celebrated for its stunning sunset
views, are now known as Legoland.
Around two-thirds of construction undertaken in Donegal today is aimed at the second-home
market. Already, almost a quarter of the countys homes lie empty for much of the year. In an
effort to limit the damage to Donegals natural environment, county officials have pressed for
tighter zoning laws that stipulate future development be restricted to full-time residents. Construction of holiday homes can be expected to continue for some time, though, as a backlog of
permits has already been issued.

You expect to encounter unique cultures on remote islands, but rarely does that include a distinctive school of painters that have come to be internationally recognised. The Tory Island painters
lack formal training, but they have cultivated a style thats both folksy and expressive.
In the 1950s the English painter Derrick Hill began to spend much of his time on the island,
where he produced many paintings. The islanders took an natural interest in Hill, often watching
him as he worked. As the story goes, one of the islanders approached Hill and said, I can do
that. He was James Dixon, a self-taught painter who used boat paint and made his own brushes
with donkey hairs. Hill was impressed with the painterly quality of Dixons work and the two
formed a lasting friendship. Other islanders were soon inspired to follow suit, each forging unique
styles while portraying rugged island scenes. These included Ruari Rodgers, Anton Meenan and
Patsy Dan Rodgers, who along with Dixon began to exhibit overseas in the late 1960s. Their
work has shown in Chicago, New York, Belfast, London and Paris and fetches impressive prices
at auctions. Patsy Dan has ridden his fame to the furthest possible extent, having been elected
King of Tory Island.
Many of these artists are still painting (Dixon passed away in 1970, age 93) and their work
is frequently shown at the Dixon Gallery (%916 5420) by the Tory Hotel. On the mainland,
you can always see Tory Island work at the Glebe Gallery (p529), which also shows the work
of Derrick Hill.

the island has been inhabited for over 4500

years. Although its only 11km north of the
mainland, the rough sea has long consolidated
the islands staunch independence.
So its no surprise that Tory is one of the last
places in Ireland that holds onto, rather than
simply paying lip service to, traditional Irish
culture. The island has its own dialect of Irish
and even has an elected king, and over the
decades its inhabitants had a reputation for
distilling and smuggling contraband poitn (a
peaty whisky). However, the island is perhaps
best known for its naive (or outsider) artists,
many of whom have attracted the attention of
international collectors (see boxed text, right).
In 1974, after an eight-week storm that
lashed the island mercilessly, the government
made plans to evacuate Tory permanently.
Thankfully this did not happen, due in part
to the efforts of Father Diarmuid Pecn,
who spearheaded an international campaign
to raise funds, create a proper ferry service,
establish an electrical supply and more. The
demise of the fishing industry has brought its
own share of problems, but the community
still doggedly perseveres.
The island has just one pebbly beach and
two recognisable villages: West Town (An
Baile Thiar), containing most of the islands
facilities, and East Town (An Baile Thoir). Its
eastern end is dominated by jagged quartzite
crags like colossal keys, while the southwest
slopes down to wave-washed bedrock.
Information is available from the Tory
Island Co-op (Comharchumann Thora Teo; % 913
5502; www.oileanthorai.com).

Sights & Activities

Cottages mingle with ancient ecclesiastical treasures in West Town. St Colmcille is

said to have founded a monastery here in

the 6th century, and reminders of the early
church are scattered throughout the town.
One example is the 12th-century Tau Cross, an
odd, T-shaped cruciform that suggests the
possibility of seafaring exchanges with early
Coptic Christians from Egypt. The cross
greets passengers disembarking from the
ferry. Also nearby is a 6th- or 7th-century
round tower, with a circumference of nearly
16m and a round-headed doorway high
above the ground.
The island is a wondrous place for birdwatching: over 100 species of sea bird inhabit
the island, and among the cliffs in the northeast you can see colonies of puffin (around
1400 are thought to inhabit the island).

Sleeping & Eating

Teach Bhillie (%916 5145; www.toraigh.net; West Town;
s/d 25/40) From the ferry, walk 300m left to
this unmarked, yellow B&B. It contains spartan but spotless rooms enlivened with bright
splashes of colour, and welcomes guests with
genuine warmth.
Graceanne Duffys (%913 5136; East Town; s/d
30/56, dinner 13; h May-Oct) A B&B in the
smaller of Torys two villages, Graceannes
has three simple but comfortable bedrooms
(two with showers) and meals include
organic produce.
Tory Hotel (stn Thora; %913 5920; www.toryhotel
.com; West Town; s/d 75/120, mains 8-11; p) Located
by the pier, this is a modern, 14-room hotel
where you can stay in pastel-coloured rooms,
get the low-down on Tory from helpful staff,
and enjoy good pub food or full meals. Twoand three-night packages are far more economical. It also has a club (at the Peoples
Bar) for island music and dance.

Entertainment
Club Sisialta Thrai (Tory Social Club; %916 5121;
West Town) The islands social life revolves
around this merry club, which presents
regular cilidhs.
Peoples Bar (%913 5920; West Town) The pub at
the Tory Hotel is a relaxed place to enjoy a
drop of the black stuff, swap stories and listen
to traditional music sessions.

Getting There & Away

Bring waterproofs for the trip it can be
a wild ride. Donegal Coastal Cruises (Turasmara
Teo; %953 1340) runs boats to Tory (adult/
child/student return 22/11/16.50) from
Bunbeg (daily June to September, Monday to Friday October to May) and Magheraroarty (two daily June to September,
with an extra trip daily July and August).
Magheraroarty is reached by turning off the
N56 at the western end of Gortahork near
Falcarragh; the road is signposted Coastal
Route/Bloody Foreland.
Theres also a seasonal service from Portna-Blagh, 2km east of Dunfanaghy (same
price, Wednesday July and August).
Call ahead, as weather and tides affect
sailings. Its not uncommon for travellers to
be stranded on the island in bad weather.

FALCARRAGH & GORTAHORK

%074 / pop 850

The Irish-speaking Falcarragh (An Fl Carrach) and neighbouring Gortahork (Gort an

Choirce) are small workaday settlements.
Youll find more tourist amenities up the road
in Dunfanaghy, but these towns afford an opportunity to experience life in the Gaeltacht
region and theres a good beach nearby.
The 19th-century police barracks now
houses Falcarragh Visitors Centre (An tSean Bheairic;
%918 0888; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun),
which has tourist information and a caf. The
Bank of Ireland at the eastern end of Main
St has an ATM and bureau de change, and
the post office is at Main Sts western end
in Falcarragh.

Sights & Activities

Its 4km to the windswept beach; follow the
signs marked Tr from either end of Main St.
The beach is superb for walking, but currents
make swimming unsafe.
The grey bulk of Muckish Mountain (670m)
dominates the coast between Dunfanaghy and
the Bloody Foreland. The top has sweeping
views to Malin Head and Tory Island. It can be
climbed from southeast of Falcarragh by way
of the inland road through Muckish Gap.

Getting Around

Sleeping & Eating

Bike hire is available from Rothair ar Cos (%916

5614; West Town; per day 10).

Loistin Na Seamroige (Shamrock Lodge; %913 5057;

Main St, Falcarragh; dm/d 15/40; hmid-Janmid-Dec)

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524 N O R T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L D u n f a n a g h y & A r o u n d

This independent hostel is upstairs from Falcarraghs best pub. Dorms are very basic but
decent. The owner, Margaret, grew up on the
premises, and on a good night her pub will
seem like the towns living room.
stn Loch Altan (%913 5267; www.ostanlochaltan
.com; Gortahork; s/d 55/110, mains 14-21; p) Resembling an American chain hotel, the rooms
here lack personality, but make up for it with
comfort. The restaurant (open from April to
October) dishes up decent local fare.
Maggie Dans (%916 5022; www.maggiedans.ie; An
Phanc, Gortahork; pizzas 5-10; h6pm-midnight; p) A
piano player tinkles the ivory most nights
in this excellent pizzeria. Its a little bit of
bohemia in the countryside, with occasional
theatre performances put on by the Maggie
Dans Caf Theatre Group. Facing the Market
Sq, its one of the few places open year-round
along this stretch of the coast.
Teach Ruairi (%913 5428; Beltany, Gortahork) is a traditional bar about 1km west of Gortahork,
signposted off the Gweedore road. There
is live acoustic music most nights, and the
atmosphere is as authentic as can be.

Getting There & Away

The Feda ODonnell (%954 8114) bus from Crolly
stops on Main St, Falcarragh (twice daily, Monday to Saturday, three Friday and Sunday).
From Falcarragh it travels on to Letterkenny
(5, one hour) and Galway (20, 5 hours).
The John McGinley (%913 5201) bus from Anagry to Dublin stops at Gortahork (4.50am,
7.15am & 3.35pm) and Falcarragh (ten minutes after Gortahork; 16, five hours). There
are additional trips Friday and Sunday.

DUNFANAGHY & AROUND

%074 / pop 300

This is a beautiful spot. The village is attractive, but more importantly the coast and the
surrounding terrain offer a varied range of
natural settings. Beautiful beaches, stunning
coastal cliffs, mountain trails and even a forest are all within a few kilometres of the town
centre. Add to that some fine dining options
and one of Irelands more intriguing hostels,
and youve got an unbeatable package.

Information
The Allied Irish Bank, opposite the Carrig
Rua Hotel, has no ATM, but youll find one

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N O R T H W E S T E R N D O N E G A L D u n f a n a g h y & A r o u n d 525

in Ramseys Shop on the waterfront. The post

office (Main St; h9am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat) has a
bureau de change.

Hannahs and her passage through the institution. On some mornings the place is overrun with busloads of school children.

Sights

DUNFANAGHY GALLERY

HORN HEAD

The towering headland of Horn Head (Corrn

Binne) has some of Donegals most spectacular coastal scenery and plenty of birdlife. Its
dramatic quartzite cliffs, covered with bog and
heather, rear over 180m high, and the view
from their tops is heart-pounding.
Go by bike or car from the Falcarragh end
of Dunfanaghy. The road circles the headland
(best to approach it in a clockwise direction)
and offers tremendous views on a fine day:
Tory, Inishbofin, Inishdooey and tiny Inishbeg islands to the west; Sheep Haven Bay and
the Rosguill Peninsula to the east; Malin Head
to the northeast; and even the coast of Scotland beyond. Take care in bad weather as the
route can be perilous.
ARDS FOREST PARK

This forested park (%912 1139; admission free),

about 5km southeast of Dunfanaghy off the
N56, is crisscrossed by marked nature trails
varying in length from 2km to 13km. It covers the northern shore of the Ards Peninsula
and there are walks to its clean beaches. The
woodlands are home to several native species,
including ash, birch and sessile oak. Introduced species, both broadleaf and conifer,
also proliferate, and you may even encounter foxes, hedgehogs and otters. In 1930 the
southern part of the peninsula was taken over
by Capuchin monks; the grounds of their friary are open to the public.
DUNFANAGHY WORKHOUSE

This grim building was the local workhouse,

built to keep and employ the destitute. Conditions were excessively harsh. Men, women,
children and the sick were separated from one
other, and their lives were dominated by gruelling work. Dunfanaghys workhouse was soon
inundated with starving people as the Famine
took grip. Just two years after it opened in
1845, it accommodated some 600 people
double the number originally planned.
The workhouse, west of the centre up
past the post office, is now a heritage centre
(%913 6540; [email protected]; Main St; adult/
child 4.50/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun
mid-MarSep), which tells the history of Wee

Just up the road from the heritage centre,

Dunfanaghy Gallery (%913 6224; Main St; admission
free; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) started life as a fever
hospital. The gallery has several rooms,
which showcase paintings old and new,
historic photos printed from original glass
plates, hand-woven tweeds, pottery, jewellery and books.
DOE CASTLE

The early 16th-century Doe Castle (Caislan na

dTuath; Creeslough) was the stronghold of the
Scottish MacSweeney family until it fell into
English hands in the 17th century. The castle
is picturesquely sited on a low promontory
with water on three sides and a moat hewn
out of the rock on the landward side. The best
view is from the CarrigartCreeslough road.
The interior isnt open to the public.
The castle is around 16km from
Dunfanaghy on the Carrigart road and is
clearly signposted.
CREESLOUGH & MUCKISH MOUNTAIN

The distinctive shape of Muckish Mountain

(670m) when its not shrouded in the
cloud and mist that locals call smir is an
eye-catching landmark and a good climb.
You can get to it via the village of Creeslough, 11km south of Dunfanaghy on the
N56, and home to an extraordinary modern
church, resembling a half-melted sugar cube,
whose snowy bulk is intended to mirror the
mountains shape. To get to Muckish, take
a right about 2km northwest of the village
and continue for about 6km, where a rough
track begins the ascent.
BEACHES

Dunfanaghy is blessed with the fabulous Killyhoey Beach, a wide, sandy, virtually empty
beach that leads right into the heart of the
village. Marble Hill Beach, about 3km east of
town in Port-na-Blagh, is more secluded
but very popular, and is usually crammed
in summer. Reaching Dunfanaghys loveliest
spot, Tramore Beach, requires hiking 20 minutes through the grassy dunes immediately
south of the village (see Walking, right).

Activities
WALKING

For an exhilarating hike, take the road from

Dunfanaghy towards Horn Head until the
bridge. After crossing, go through the gate on
your left and stroll along the track until you
reach the dunes. A well-beaten path will lead
you to the magnificent Tramore Beach. Turn left
and follow it to the end, where you can find a
way up onto a path leading north to Pollaguill
Bay. Continue to the cairn at the end of the bay
and follow the coastline for a stupendous view
of the 20m Marble Arch, carved out by the sea.
A shorter walk begins at Marble Hill Beach
in Port-na-Blagh. Take the path on the left
side of the beach past the cottage and work
your way about 500m through the brush and
along the top of the cliff until you reach Harrys
Hole, a small crevice in the cliff that is popular
with daredevil kids, who dive 10m into the
water below.
GOLF

Dunfanaghy Golf Club (%913 6335; www.dunfanaghy

golfclub.com) is a stunning waterside 18-hole
links course just outside the village on the
Port-na-Blagh road.
HORSE RIDING

This is a terrific way of exploring the expansive

beaches and surrounding countryside. It can
be arranged through Dunfanaghy Stables (%910
0980; www.dunfanaghystables.com; Main St; per hr 25).
SEA ANGLING & DIVING

Richard Bowyer (%913 6640; Port-na-Blagh) organises sea-angling trips from the small pier in
Port-na-Blagh between Easter and September.
Local diving trips are also run by Diveology
(%086-809 5737; www.diveology.com).
WINDSURFING & KITE-SURFING

Windsurfing lessons and gear hire are available through Marble Hill Windsurfing (%913 6231;
[email protected]; the Cottage, Marble Hill, Port-naBlagh; hdaily Jul & Aug, by appointment May, Jun & Sep).

Lessons start from 40.

Sleeping
The Mill House (%913 6409; www.corcreggan.com;
Corcreggan Mill, Dunfanaghy; camp sites per person 8,
dm 20, d 40-55, tr 70; p ) Part of the busy
Corcreggan Mill compound (but owned and
operated separately) is the lovingly rebuilt
Mill House, just a few paces from the railway

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

Entertainment

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526 E A S T E R N D O N E G A L Le t t e r k e n n y

car hostel. It has spotless dormitory-style accommodation (with firm mattresses), along
with private rooms for couples and families (one room even has a crib for babies).
Campers can pitch tents on a cushy lawn
beside an organic vegetable garden. Theres
lots going on amid several comfortable sitting rooms and halls, with music sessions,
massage services and meditation seminars.
Throw in a continental/full breakfast for
an additional 5/7. Its 4km southwest of
Dunfanaghy on the Falcarragh road (N56).
Buses stop outside.
oThe Carriage Hostel (%910 0814; www
after ordinary dormitory accommodation,
look elsewhere. The Carriage Hostel, on the
site of an historic mill, comprises of a 19thcentury mahogany railway carriage parked
alongside an old kiln. You have a choice of
shacking up in the railways private cabins
not luxurious, but a cool experience and
open year round or in the rustic old stone
Kiln House (open May to September). Be
sure to specify your preference. Dorms have
just three or four beds. Cosy sitting rooms
exude historic Irish comfort.
Rosman House (%913 6273; www.rosmanhouse.ie;
Figart, Dunfanaghy; s/d 45/60; p) With six flowery,
spotless rooms, this B&B is very homey
in fact, a family of six live here. Its surrounded by fields and gardens. Youll find
it just down the road from the workhouse.
Arnolds Hotel (%913 6208; www.arnoldshotel.com;
Main St; s 92-109, d 124-158; hApr-Oct; p) Open
since 1922, Arnolds is a self-assured, 30room hotel overlooking the waterfront in
Sheep Haven Bay. Strewn with deep armchairs and backed by neatly trimmed terrace gardens, it is a relaxing place to stay.
However, it also offers all manner of activity
holidays (see the website).
Shandon Hotel (%913 6137; www.shandonhotel.com;
Sheep Haven Bay, Dunfanaghy; d 250, 2-night min; ps)

Donegals swankiest modern accommodation

is to be had at this hilltop hotel-spa, with a
spectacular vantage of Marble Hill Beach.
Rooms, all facing the ocean, are spacious
and elegantly attired. However, its the spa
thats the class of the outfit. It has a stylishly
designed pool, a childrens pool, steamrooms
and a fully equipped gym, and guests can
pamper themselves with a range of health
treatments. A good choice for families.

Eating
Muck n Muffins (%913 6780; Main Sq; sandwiches
& snacks 3-8; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun,
wine bar from 8pm daily Aug, Fri & Sat Sep-Jul) A 19th-

century rough-stone grain store now hosts

this three-storey caf and craft shop by the
waterfront. The perfect place for healthful
sandwiches, tempting cakes and muffins.
During summer it opens some evenings as a
wine bar, serving tapas and cheeseboards.
Mill (%913 6985; www.themillrestaurant.com; Figart,
Dunfanaghy; 3-course dinner 39; h7-9pm Tue-Sun MarDec) An exquisite country setting and per-

fectly composed meals make this friendly

spot a treat. It occupies an old flax mill that
was for many years the home of Frank Eggington, a locally renowned painter. Its just
south of the town on the Falcarragh road.
Book ahead. It also offers a high-class B&B
(single/double 65/95).
oCove (%913 6300; Rockhill, Port-na-Blagh;
4-course dinner 40; h6-10pm Wed-Mon, 1-4pm Sun) For
a fun and stylish evening out, you can do no
better. Owners Siobhan Sweeney and Peter
Byrne are perfectionists who tend to every
detail in the kitchen, the dining room and,
most importantly, on your plate. Food is
inventive and deceptively simple you may
discover subtle Asian influences. After dinner, retire to the elegant lounge upstairs. Its
on the coast road in Port-na-Blagh.

Getting There & Away

Feda ODonnell (%954 8114) buses from Crolly
(5, 40 minutes) to Galway (20, five hours)
stop in Dunfanaghy square twice daily Monday to Saturday, three Friday and Sunday.
John McGinley (%913 5201) buses to Dublin stop in Dunfanaghy (16, 4 hours).
The Lough Swilly (%912 2863) DungloeDerry
bus stops in Dunfanaghy (7, 1 hours)
twice daily Monday to Friday, three times
on Saturday.

EASTERN DONEGAL
LETTERKENNY
%074 / pop 12,000

Donegals largest town is growing rapidly,

and it has the traffic congestion to prove it.
Letterkenny (Leitir Ceanainn) is undergoing great change as the local economy picks
up, which is obviously great for most of its

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inhabitants. Expect even more growth in the

years ahead if plans materialize for a new
tech-oriented industrial development on
Letterkennys outskirts.
The town is also enjoying a cultural upswing, particularly in the form of its esteemed theatre, and pubs and clubs buzz
with students and young professionals. But
the towns energy, while novel to its inhabitants, wont necessarily entice visitors. Most
passers-through will be on their way to Donegals more alluring northern corners. Letterkenny is particularly relevant as a gateway
to the remote Inishowen Peninsula. Travellers using public transport are likely to stop
here for at least a short period.

Orientation
Main St, said to be the longest high street in
Ireland, runs from Dunnes Stores at one end
to the courthouse at the other, and divides
into Upper and Lower Main Sts. At the top
of Upper Main St there is a Y-junction: High
Rd veers left, while Port Rd goes right to the
bus station and the road out to Derry.

Information
Check out www.destinationletterkenny.com
for some useful information.
AIB (Main St) Bank branch with ATM.
Bank of Ireland (Main St)
Cyberworld (%912 0440; Lower Main St; per hr 2)
Internet caf.

Duds n Suds Laundrette (%912 8303; Pearse Rd;

load from 8)

Northwest Tourist Office (%912 1160; www

.donegaldirect.ie; Neil Blaney Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri,
noon-3pm Sat & Sun Jun & Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri SepMay) Run by Filte Ireland (Irish Tourist Board), this office
is far inferior to the tourist office in Donegal town. Its
1km southeast of town at the end of Port Rd.
Post office (Upper Main St)

Sights & Activities

Dominating the towns hillside profile, the
enormous Gothic-style St Eunans Cathedral
(1901) thrusts skyward on Sentry Hill Rd
(take Church Lane up from Main St) and
contains much intricate Celtic carving.
Outside the town, salmon and trout populate the rivers and lakes. Equipment and information is available from Top Tackle (%916
7545; 55 Port Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat).

E A S T E R N D O N E G A L Le t t e r k e n n y 527

Festivals & Events

The Letterkenny Festival (%912 7856) is a fourday international festival of music and dance
held at the end of August.

Sleeping
Port Hostel (%912 5315; www.porthostel.ie; Port Rd; camp
sites 20, dm 15, d 36-40; p) This purpose-built
hostel, though modern, has a well-used college
dormitory atmosphere, especially in the huge
downstairs dorm. It attracts a steady stream of
visitors from Northern Ireland, especially on
holiday weekends, when all Letterkenny takes
on a holiday atmosphere. Then, this hostel can
feel like the centre of the action. Its setting
is appealing, though: its up a crooked lane
that swerves uphill behind the An Griann
Theatre. Karen, the gregarious owner, is a
good source of Donegal info.
Letterkenny Court Hotel (%912 2977; www.let
terkennycourthotel.com; Main St; s/d from 49/98; p) In a
historic building that sports a bright, colourful
paint job, this hotel is a polished operation on
the main drag. Service, style and location are
its selling points. Rooms have a pastel, freshas-spring feel, and about a dozen pubs are
within a few staggers of the front door.
Cove Hill House (%912 1038; Port Rd; with/without
bathroom s 45/35, d 60/50; p) This B&B has a
comfortable and cheerful feel. Its on the tolerable side of dainty, crammed with homey
knickknacks and nuzzled by a beautiful garden. Credit cards are accepted. Its behind the
theatre and next to Port Hostel.
Castle Grove (%915 1118; www.castlegrove.com;
Ramelton Rd; s/d 105/170; p) Ignore Letterkennys slew of swanky business hotels. The
place for a luxurious stay is this grandiose
Georgian manor 5km out towards Ramelton.
Its enormous estate rolls down unimpeded
to the estuary and the impossibly neat lawn
seems cut with nail clippers. Award-winning
Irish/French food in its restaurant clinches
the deal.

Eating
Simple Simons (%912 2382; St Oliver Plunkett Rd; soups
& salads 3-6.50; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Genetically
modified is a dirty term at this passionate
natural-products shop and attached caf. The
on-site bakery produces delightful treats for
every special diet imaginable and it stocks a
good selection of organic veggies.
Sienna (%912 8535; Upper Main St; mains 5-9;
h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-5.30pm Sun) Tops

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

.the-carriage-hostel-corcreggan.com; Corcreggan Mill, Dunfanaghy; dm 14-17; s 25-35, d 35-42; p) If youre

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among Letterkennys stylish contemporary

eateries, Sienna is a great spot for ciabatta
and panini sandwiches and strong coffee during the daytime. At night, the place becomes
dimly lit and romantic, and the menu converts
to more sophisticated Mediterranean fare. A
nice wine selection and live jazz complement
the cosmopolitan vibe.
Brewery (%912 7330; Upper Main St; bar food around 8,
mains 13-26; h3-9pm) Theres a choice between
top-notch bar food downstairs or enormous
platters upstairs at this happening pubrestaurant overlooking the small square.
Yellow Pepper (% 912 4133; www.yellowpepper
restaurant.com; 36 Lower Main St; dinner mains 16-20;
hnoon-10pm) A popular place among locals not

Drinking
Cottage Bar (%912 1338; 49 Upper Main St) Watch
your head on entering Letterkennys most
appealing pub. From the low ceilings hang
all manner of interesting bric-a-brac. Once
youre safely seated with a pint, youll enjoy
studying the stuff. If its nippy out, try to snag
a seat by the open fire. Thursday night music
sessions sweeten the deal.

Entertainment
Casbah (Main St) Letterkennys most happening
club draws a diverse (though generally young)
crowd. The place rocks when live shows are
on in its basement.
An Griann Theatre (%912 0777; www.angrianan
.com; Port Rd) An Griann Theatre is both a community theatre and major arts venue for the
northwest, presenting national and international drama, comedy and music. It also has
a good caf and bar.

Getting There & Away

Letterkenny is a major bus hub for northwestern Ireland. The bus station is by the roundabout at the junction of Ramelton Rd and the
Derry road. It will look after luggage for 2.
Bus ireann (%912 1309) express bus 32 runs
to Dublin (16, four hours) six times daily
(four on Sunday) via Omagh (11, one hour)
and Monaghan (13, 1 hours). The Derry
(7, 35 minutes) to Galway (15, 4 hours)
bus 64 stops at Letterkenny three times daily

(twice on Sunday) before continuing to Donegal (8, 50 minutes), Bundoran (12, 1

hours), Sligo (12, 2 hours) and Galway
(17, 3 hours) The DerryCork express bus
53 connects Letterkenny and Donegal (45
minutes), and Sligo (12, two hours). It runs
three times daily (once on Sunday).
John McGinley (%913 5201) buses run twice
daily Sunday to Thursday (three times Friday,
once on Saturday) from Annagry to Dublin (15, 3 hours) through Letterkenny
and Monaghan.
Lough Swilly (%912 2863) has regular services
from Derry (6.60, one hour) to Dungloe (8,
two hours), via Letterkenny and Dunfanaghy,
as well as direct to Letterkenny.
Feda ODonnell (%954 8114) runs a bus from
Crolly (5, 1 hours) to Galway (16, four
hours) twice daily via Letterkenny, Donegal,
Bundoran and Sligo. Buses stop on the road
outside the bus station.
McGeehan Coaches (%954 6150) runs a service
from Letterkenny to Glencolumbcille (10,
2 hours) daily except Sunday.

Getting Around
Taxis can be ordered from A Cabs (%912 2272).
There are taxi stands on Main St opposite the
square, and opposite the bus station.

LOUGH GARTAN
%074

The patriarch of Irish monasticism, St Colmcille (or Columba), was born in a lovely setting
near the glassy Lough Gartan, and some isolated stone structures and crosses remain from
his lifetime. The lake is 17km northwest of
Letterkenny. Its beautiful driving country.

Colmcille Heritage Centre

This heritage centre (%913 7306; Gartan; adult/concession 2/1.50; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-6.30pm Sun,
May-Sep), on the shore of Lough Gartan, is Colm-

cilles Hall of Fame, with a lavish display on

the production of illuminated manuscripts.
Colmcilles mother, on the run from pagans, supposedly haemorrhaged during
childbirth and her blood is believed to have
changed the colour of the surrounding Gartan
Clay from brown to pure white. Ever since,
the clay has been regarded as a charm. Ask
nicely and the staff may produce some from
under the counter.
On the way to the heritage centre youll
also see signs to the stone pile that once was

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E A S T E R N D O N E G A L D u n l e w y & A r o u n d 529

Colmcilles Abbey. Further down the road, on

hillside overrun by bleating sheep, is the
saints birthplace, marked by a hefty cross.
Beside it is an intriguing prehistoric tomb
strewn with greening coppers thats popularly known as the Flagstone of Loneliness, on which Columba supposedly slept.
The chunky slab was once believed to
cure homesickness.
To reach the heritage centre, leave Letterkenny on the R250 road to Glenties and
Ardara. After a few kilometres, turn right on
the R251 to Churchill village and follow the
signs. Alternatively, from Kilmacrennan on
the N56, turn west and look for signs.

Sights & Activities

Gartan Outdoor Education Centre

Courses including rock climbing, sea kayaking, sailing, surfing, windsurfing, hill climbing and more are offered for both adults
and children at this adventure centre (%913
7032; www.gartan.com; Gartan, Churchill). Its located
18km northwest of Letterkenny, and set in
its own 35-hectare estate on the shores of
Lough Gartan.

Glebe Gallery & House

The English painter Derrick Hill bought
historic Glebe House (%913 7071; Churchill; adult/
child/concession 2.75/1.25/2; h 11am-6.30pm daily
Easter, Sat-Thu only mid-MaySep; pw) in 1953,

providing him with a gorgeous base on the

Irish mainland, not far from his beloved
Tory Island. Before Hill arrived, the house
served as a rectory and then a hotel. The
mansion is sumptuously decorated, alive
with colour, flair and an evident love of all
things exotic.
The houses real appeal, however, is Hills
astonishing art collection. In addition to
works by Hill and the naive artists of Tory
Island (see the boxed text, p523) are works
by Picasso, Landseer, Hokusai, Jack B Yeats
and Kokoschka. The woodland gardens are
also wonderful. A guided tour of the house
takes about 45 minutes.

DUNLEWY & AROUND

%074 / pop 700

Blink and you could miss the tiny village of

Dunlewy (Dn Liche), sitting at the foot
of Mt Errigal beside Lough Dunlewy. You
wont miss Mt Errigal, however, which towers over the town. Its a modest little gateway
to Glenveigh National Park.

DUNLEWY LAKESIDE CENTRE

The catch-all lakeside centre (Ionad Cois Locha;

%953 1699; www.dunleweycentre.com; Dunlewy; admission
house & grounds or boat trip adult/child 5.75/3.75, combined
ticket 9.50/6.50; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun
Easter-Oct) offers something for everybody, es-

pecially kids. It includes the thatched cottage

of Manus Ferry, a local weaver who earned
world renown for his tweeds (he died in
1975). Its also an activity centre with a petting zoo, lakeside walks, pony trekking and,
best of all, excellent boat trips on the lake
with a storyteller who vividly brings to life
local history, geology and ghoulish folklore.
In summer there are traditional music concerts. Theres also a good caf with a turf
fire and craft shop. The centre is currently
expanding, and will soon include a theatre
and concert venue.
MT ERRIGAL & THE POISONED GLEN

Scree-scarred Mt Errigal (752m) is one of

Irelands highest peaks. It looms over Dunlewy, seemingly daring walkers to attempt
the tough but beautiful climb to its conical
peak. Anyone keen to take on the challenge
should pay close attention to the weather.
Its a dangerous climb on misty or wet days,
when the mountain is shrouded in cloud
and visibility is minimal.
There are two paths to the summit: the
easier route, which covers 5km and takes
around two hours; and the more difficult
3.3km walk along the northwestern ridge,
which involves scrambling over scree for
about 2 hours. Details of both routes are
available at the Dunlewy Lakeside Centre.
Legend has it that the stunning ice-carved
rock-face of the Poisoned Glen got its sinister
name when the ancient one-eyed giant king
of Tory, Balor, was killed here by his exiled
grandson, Lughaidh, whereupon the poison
from his eye split the rock and poisoned the
glen. The less interesting truth, however, lies
in a cartographic gaffe. Locals were inspired
to name it An Gleann Neamhe (the Heavenly
Glen), but when an English cartographer
mapped the area, he carelessly marked it An
Gleann Neimhe the Poisoned Glen.
The R251 has several viewpoints overlooking the glen. Its possible to walk through
it, although the ground is rough and boggy.
From the lakeside centre a return walk along
the glen is 12km and takes two to three

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

looking to impress each other. Its family-run,

and feels like it its cheery and comfortable.
Dont be misled, however: this place is often
touted as Letterkennys best restaurant. It
stakes its reputation on excellent fish dishes.

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530 E A S T E R N D O N E G A L G l e n v e a g h N a t i o n a l Pa r k

hours. Just watch out for the green lady

the resident ghost!

Sleeping
Errigal Hostel (%953 1180; www.errigalhostel.com; Dunlewy; dm/d 18/50; p) Just 2km north of Dunlewy
at the base of Mt Errigal, this purpose-built,
modern An ige hostel was under construction at the time of research. It is due to open
by the time you read this. Ring ahead to reserve a bed.
Radharc an Ghleanna (%953 1835; radharcang@
hotmail.com; Moneymore, Dunlewy; s/d 35/60; p) The
four comfy rooms at this country bungalow
are as clean as laboratories, while the views
over the lough and to the Poisoned Glen are
eye-popping. Its down a small lane a short
drive east of the hostel.

GLENVEAGH NATIONAL PARK

Bheatha; [email protected]; admission free;
h10am-6pm Feb-Nov, last admission 5pm), one of the

most beautiful spots in Ireland. Alternating

between great knuckles of rock, green-gold
swathes of bog and scatterings of oak and
birch forest, the 16,500-sq-km protected area
makes wonderful walking country. It is also
home to a variety of wildlife, including the
golden eagle, which was hunted to extinction
here in the 19th century but was reintroduced
in 2000.
Yet such serenity came at a heavy price.
The land was once farmed by 244 tenants,
who were forcibly evicted by landowner John
George Adair in the winter of 1861 following what he called a conspiracy, but really
because their presence obstructed his vision
for the valley.
Adair put the final touches on his paradise (187073) by building the spectacular
lakeside Glenveagh Castle, while his wife,
Adelia, introduced two things that define the
national parks appearance: the herd of red
deer and the rhododendrons. Green fingers
and a love of animals notwithstanding, the
Adair name still meets with dripping scorn.
However, a rather poetic revenge was enacted
when Adairs body was to be buried in 1885.
As the funeral cart rolled up to his grave, its
said they found a donkey already occupying
his would-be home for eternity.
If anything, things got even more surreal
after Adairs death. The castle was briefly oc-

cupied by the IRA in 1922. Then in 1929 the

property was acquired by Kingsley Porter,
professor of art at Harvard University, who
mysteriously disappeared in 1933 (presumed
drowned, but rumoured to have been spotted in Paris afterwards). Six years later the
estate was bought by his former student,
Henry McIlhenny, once described by Andy
Warhol as the only person in Philadelphia
with glamour. In 1975 McIlhenny sold the
whole kit and caboodle to the Irish government and it is now administered by Dchas,
the Heritage Service.
The park features nature trails along lakes,
through woods and blanket bog, as well as
a viewing point thats a short walk behind
the castle.
The Glenveagh Visitor Centre (%074-913 7090;
Churchill) has a 20-minute audiovisual display
on the ecology of the park and the infamous
Adair. The restaurant serves hot food and
snacks, and the reception sells the necessary midge repellent, as vital in summer as
walking boots and waterproofs are in winter.
Camping is not allowed.

Glenveagh Castle
This delightfully showy castle (adult/child 3/1.50;
h10am-6pm Easter-Oct) was modelled in miniature on Scotlands Balmoral Castle. Henry
McIlhenny made it a characterful home with
liberal reminders of his passion for hunting
deer. In fact youll be hard pressed to find a
single room without a representation or
taxidermied remains of a stag.
An entertaining guided tour takes in a
series of flamboyantly decorated rooms that
look as if McIlhenny just left them. The most
eye-catching, including the tartan- and-antlercovered music room and the pink candystriped room demanded by Greta Garbo
whenever she stayed here, are in the round
tower. The drawing room has a splendid 300year-old fireplace bought by McIlhenny from
the Ards estate near Dunfanaghy.
The exotic gardens are similarly spectacular. Theyve been nurtured for decades and
boast a host of terraces, an Italian garden,
a walled kitchen garden, and the Belgian
Walk, built by Belgian soldiers who stayed
here during WWI. Their cultured charm is
in marked contrast to the wildly beautiful
landscape that enfolds the area.
The last guided tours of the castle leave
about 45 minutes before closing time. Mini-

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N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L R o s g u i l l Pe n i n s u l a 531

buses (adult/child return 2/1) run from the visitor

centre to the castle roughly every 15 minutes. The last one returns from the castle
at 6pm.

DOON WELL & ROCK OF DOON

In centuries past wells were commonly believed to cure afflictions and judging by the
shimmering rosaries, multicoloured rags and
trinkets bejewelling nearby bushes, many still
believe this to be true of Doon Well (Tobar an
Duin). Despite its decoration, the well itself
looks more like a kitchen cupboard than a
wishing well.
A sign points to the overgrown Rock of
Doon (Carraig an Duin), which has some
far-reaching views. This is where the
ODonnell kings were crowned presumably so they could get a squiz at what they
were inheriting.
Take the signposted turn-off from the N56
just north of Kilmacrennan. The well and
rock are about 1.5km north of the village.

LIFFORD
%074 / pop 1400

Nudging the border by Strabane in County

Tyrone, the dwindling town of Lifford
(Leifear) was formerly the judicial capital
of Donegal. While its powerful past is long
gone, its spirit lives on in the daunting 18thcentury Old Courthouse (%914 1733; www.liffordold
courthouse.com; adult/concession 5/3; h10am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri, 12.30-4.30pm Sun; p). The courthouse

is home to an excellent heritage centre with

creepily lifelike re-creations that use actors faces projected onto waxworks. In this
manner, Manus ODonnell tells the story
of Donegals Gaelic chieftains and several
bona-fide trials are re-enacted in the austere courtroom (including that of Napper
Tandy, John half-hanged McNaughten and
the Lord Leitrim murder). A guard will take
you down to the prison cells, accompanied
by sounds of banging doors and ominous
footsteps, to be locked up for sheep-stealing
or the like.

Getting There & Away

Bus ireanns (% 912 1309) express service
32 from Dublin (16, 3 hours) to Letterkenny (6.50, 20 minutes) stops in Lifford up to five times daily. Local buses
connect Lifford with Letterkenny, Ballybofey and Strabane.

NORTHEASTERN
DONEGAL
ROSGUILL PENINSULA
%074

The best way to explore Rosguills rugged

splendour is by driving, cycling or even
walking the 15km Atlantic Dr, signposted
to your left as you come into the sprawling
village of Carrigart (Carraig Airt) from the
south. There are plenty of pubs in the village to cure your thirst and a nice, secluded
beach at Tr na Rossan. On no account should
you swim in Boveeghter or Mulroy Bay
both are unsafe. Perhaps this is why the
summer crowds dont linger here, preferring
instead to travel 4km northward to Downings,
where the beach is spectacular but the village
has a slightly abused feel to it.

Activities
The superb links of Rosapenna Golf Club (%915
5301; www.rosapennagolflinks.ie; Downings; green fees 5075), designed by St Andrews Old Tom Mor-

ris in 1891 and remodelled by Harry Vardon

in 1906, is one of the outstanding seaside
courses in Ireland. The scenery is spectacular as is the layout, which can challenge even
the lowest handicapper.

Sleeping
Caseys Caravan Park (%915 5301; rosapenna@eircom
.net; Downings; camp sites 10-20; h Apr-Sep) You
wont get closer to Downings Blue Flag
beach than at this extremely popular camp
site right beside the dunes. The village is just
around the corner. Book ahead.
Tr na Rosann Hostel (%915 5374; www.anoige
.ie; Downings; dm 15; hApr-Oct) Knockout views
and a terrific atmosphere are the biggest
draws at this chalet-like former hunting
lodge, now an An ige hostel. The one
drawback is that its 6km east of Downings
and youll have to hitch if you dont have
your own wheels.
Beach Hotel (stn na Tr; % 915 5303;
[email protected]; Downings; s/d 45/80;
hApr-Oct; p) For more of a personal touch,

come to this family-run hotel, which has 20

pristine rooms close to the beach. Ask for
one of the new rooms, most of which have
sea views.

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

Lakes cluster like dew in the mountainous valley of Glenveagh National Park (Pairc Nasnta Ghleann

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532 N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L Fa n a d Pe n i n s u l a

Downings Bay Hotel (%915 5586; www.downings

bayhotel.com; Downings; s/d from 65/100; pw )

Knockalla Caravan & Camping Park (%074-915

9108; Portsalon; camp sites 14-20; hmid-Marmid-Sep)

This classic beach resort hotel has been

thoroughly updated, offering contemporary luxury just a few steps from the strand.
Rooms are spacious, comfortable and immaculate. Its very reasonably priced for
what it offers, and even better deals can be
had in winter.

is a short walk from the beach on the lower

slopes of Knockalla Mountain and fills up
quickly in summer. It has a kitchen, a laundry, a shop, a games room and an outdoor
play area.
Its another 8km to the lighthouse on the
rocky tip of Fanad Head, the best part of
which is the scenic drive there. Driving the
rollercoaster road that hugs the cliffs back to
Rathmullan, youll pass the early 19th-century
Knockalla Fort, built to warn off any approaching French ships.

Eating
Old Glen Bar & Restaurant (%915 5130; Glen, Carrigart;
mains 14-23; h6-11pm) This wonderful pub is
entirely authentic and serves a sensational
pint. At the back of the pub, though, modernity rules with a contemporary restaurant
serving up a fabulous menu of fish, seafood
and meat. The tiny hamlet of Glen is signposted off the R245 between Creeslough and
Carrigart, about 6km south of the latter.
Haven Restaurant (%915 5586; bar food 10-20,
restaurant mains 16-25; h6.30-9.30pm) In the Downings Bay Hotel, this restaurant deals up aboveaverage meals. Bar food can be ordered in
JCs Bar.

Getting There & Around

A local bus connects Carrigart and Downings,
but its of limited use for visitors. You really
need your own transport for this area.

FANAD PENINSULA
The second-most northern point in Donegal,
Fanad Head thrusts out into the Atlantic to the
west of Rosguill. The peninsula curls around
the watery expanses of Mulroy Bay to the
west, and Lough Swilly to the east, the latter
trimmed by high cliffs and sandy beaches.
Most travellers stick to the peninsulas eastern
flank, visiting the beautiful beach and excellent golf course at Portsalon, and the quiet
heritage towns of Ramelton and Rathmullan.
Accommodation is relatively limited, so book
ahead in summer.

Portsalon & Fanad Head

Once named the second most beautiful
beach in the world by British newspaper
the Observer, the tawny-coloured Blue Flag
beach in Ballymastocker Bay, which is safe
for swimming, is the principle draw of tiny
Portsalon (Port an tSalainn). For golfers,
however, the main attraction is the marvellously scenic Portsalon Golf Club (% 915
9459; Portsalon).

GETTING THERE & AWAY

The Lough Swilly (%074-912 2863) bus leaves Letterkenny twice daily for Milford (3.50, one
hour) and continues from Milford to Portsalon (9, 35 minutes, morning bus only).

Rathmullan
%074 / pop 520

The refined little port of Rathmullan (Rth

Maolin) has a tranquillity about it that belies the momentous events that took place
here from the 16th to 18th centuries. In 1587,
Hugh ODonnell, the 15-year-old heir to the
powerful ODonnell clan, was tricked into
boarding a ship here and taken to Dublin
as a prisoner. He escaped four years later on
Christmas Eve and, after unsuccessful attempts at revenge, died in Spain, aged only
30. In 1607, despairing of fighting the English,
Hugh ONeill, the earl of Tyrone, and Rory
ODonnell, the earl of Tyrconnel, boarded
a ship in Rathmullan harbour and left Ireland for good. This decisive act, known as the
Flight of the Earls, marked the effective end of
Gaelic Ireland and the rule of Irish chieftains.
Large-scale confiscation of their estates took
place, preparing for the Plantation of Ulster
with settlers from Britain. Also in Rathmullan, Wolfe Tone, leader of the 1798 Rising,
was captured.
SIGHTS

The picturesque Carmelite Rathmullan Friary

is so covered in vines that it would probably
crumble should they be cleared away. It was
founded around 1508 by the MacSweeneys,
and was still used in 1595 when English commander, George Bingham, raided the place
and took off with the communion plate and
priestly vestments. Bishop Knox then reno-

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N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L Fa n a d Pe n i n s u l a 533

vated the friary in 1618 in order to use it as

his own residence.

The National Irish Bank (the Mall), by the River

Lennon, has a bureau de change but no ATM.
The post office (Castle St) is off the Mall.

SLEEPING & EATING

Dinner at the hotels costs from 40 to 45;

there are several pubs in town serving
bar food.
Knoll (%915 8241; Main St; s/d 35/70; p) This
genteel black-and-white house was built to
house the commander of the North Atlantic
Fleet in 1780, and has since been reincarnated
as everything from a police station to a post
office. Happily for travellers, it now houses a
cosy three-room B&B, fronted by beautifully
maintained gardens. Its just half a block from
the sea.
Rathmullan House (%915 8188; www.rathmullan
house.com; s/d 115/230; piw) Just north of
town, on the shores of Lough Swilly, this luxurious country house boasts an indoor heated
swimming pool, a sauna and tennis courts,
and is set in a beautifully wooded garden by
the water. Its restaurant, the Weeping Elm,
is highly regarded for its innovative use of
organic ingredients.
Fort Royal (%915 8100; www.fortroyalhotel.com;
s/d 130/190; hApr-Oct; p) This more down-toearth but equally exclusive waterside hotel
has 15 old-fashioned rooms, a wonderful restaurant and rambling gardens that feel as old
as the house, built in 1805. Private cottages,
oozing traditional rural simplicity, rent for
500-700 per week. The grounds extend to a
private beach, and also include a tennis court
and pitch-and-putt course.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

The Lough Swilly (%912 2863) bus from Letterkenny arrives in Rathmullan (5, 45 minutes, twice daily) en route to Milford and
Portsalon (morning bus only).

Ramelton
%074 / pop 1050

The sweet little town of Ramelton (Rth

Mealtain, also sometimes called Rathmelton)
is the first community you come to if youre
approaching the peninsula from the east. Its
a picture-perfect spot, with rows of handsome Georgian houses and rough-walled
stone warehouses following the curve of the
River Lennon. If the doctor ordered you to
steer clear of any form of excitement, you
had probably better drop your bags here for
a few days.

SIGHTS

Housed in a restored warehouse on the riverfront, the Donegal Ancestry Family Research Centre
& Heritage Centre (%915 1266; www.donegalancestry
.com; the Quay; adult/child 4/2; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Thu,
9am-4pm Fri) has an exhibition on the history of

Ramelton, and also does genealogical research.

It costs 15 for an initial consultation.
The ruined Tullyaughnish Church, on the hill, is
also worth a visit because of the Romanesque
carvings in the eastern wall, which were taken
from a far older church on nearby Aughnish
Island, on the River Lennon. Coming from
Letterkenny turn right at the river and follow
it round for about 400m.
SLEEPING & EATING

Lennon Lodge (%915 1227; Market Sq; s/d 30/60; p)

This is a family-run B&B upstairs from a pub.
It has basic but clean rooms, a laundry, a large
common room and TVs in every room. The
pub has live music Friday to Sunday nights,
and regular darts competitions.
Crammond House (%915 1055; crammondhouse@
ramelton.net; Market Sq; s/d 35/64; hApr-Oct; p)

An old-fashioned welcome is found at this

sedate Georgian town house at the northern end of Ramelton. Rooms are large and
elegantly furnished.
Tanyard (%915 1029; www.thetanyard.com; Bridgend,
Ramelton; apt per week 255-470; p) If your doctor really did advise you spend a few days
in a quiet place like Ramelton, you couldnt
do much better than the apartments in this
converted Georgian warehouse. Its right on
the river, with the water lapping the buildings stone back side, and a wee walk from
the heart of the town. Apartments sleep
up to four people, have kitchens and are
rather stylish.
Mirabeau Steak House (%915 1138; the Mall; mains
9-18; h6-10pm) This dimly lit restaurant claims
the old living room of a Georgian house on
the riverfront. The cuisine is French with an
emphasis on steak and seafood, and portions
are colossal.
Bridge Bar (% 915 1119; Bridgend; mains 1325; h6-11pm) Just over the bridge, about
100m from downtown, the Bridge Bar is
one of those lovely old country pubs you
came to Ireland for. It has a cosy 1st-floor

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

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534 N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L I n i s h o w e n Pe n i n s u l a

restaurant with good seafood dishes, such as

roasted swordfish.

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as do traditional thatched cottages that arent

yet being used as storage sheds.
The towns in the next section are part of
a route that follows the road west of Derry
up the coast of Lough Foyle to Moville and
then northwest to Malin Head, before heading
down the western side to Buncrana. If youre
coming from Donegal, the peninsula can be
approached from the southwest by turning
off for Buncrana on the N13 road from Letterkenny to Derry.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Lough Swilly (%912 2863) buses connect Rathmelton with Letterkenny (2.85, 30 minutes,
three times daily from Monday to Saturday).

INISHOWEN PENINSULA
The sprawling Inishowen (Inis Eoghain) Peninsula, with Lough Foyle to the east and
Lough Swilly to the west, reaches just far
enough out into the Atlantic to qualify as
Irelands northernmost point: Malin Head. It
is remote, rugged, desolate and sparsely populated, making it a special and quiet sort of
place. Ancient sites and ruined castles abound,

Moville & Around

%074 / pop 1470

Inishowens best-looking town is Moville

(Bun an Phobail), which essentially amounts
to a couple of roads meeting beside a harbour.
0
0

INISHOWEN PENINSULA
Ballyhillin
Beach

Crockalough
(280m)

A T L A N T IC
O CE A N
Doagh
Island
Tullagh
Point

Dunaff
Head

Pollan
Tullagh
Bay
Bay
Tullagh
Strand

Carrickbraghey
Castle

Malin

Trawbreaga
Bay

R238

Donagh
Cross

R244

Kinnagoe
Bay

Clonca Church
& Cross

Carndonagh

Clonmany
Mamore
Hill
(421m)

Gap of
Mamore

Culdaff
Bay Dunmore
Head
Culdaff
Tremore
Bocan
Bay
Stone Circle

Ballyliffin

Dunaff

Lenan
Head

Glengad
Head

Lagg
Sand
Dunes

Carrowmore
High
Crosses

Inishowen
Head
Gleneely

Stroove
Dunagree
Point Lighthouse

R238

Glentogher

Urris
Hills

Greencastle

Slieve
Main
(615m)

Dunree
Dunree
Head

Cooley
Cross

R240
R238

Redcastle

Slieve
Snaght

Binevenagh
A2

Quigley's
Point

Scalp
Mountain
(477m)

Fahan
St Mura
Cross

Rathmullan

Lough
Foyle

Roe R
iver

ou
g

Sw
i ll
y

DONEGAL

Moville

Magilligan
Point

Lough
Foyle
Ferry

Inishowen
Peninsula

Fe

Lough
Swilly
Tullyarvan
Neds Point
Mill
Riv
Fort
er Crana
O'Docherty's
Keep & Buncrana
Castle
Buncrana
rry

Green Castle

Muff

Inch
Island

Limavady

R238

A37

Burnfoot

Inch

A2

Burt

Bridge End

N13

A2

Derry

River F
a

To Letterkenny
(2km)

ha
n

Griann
of Ailech

ug

City Of
Derry Airport
DERRY

Roe Valley
Country
Park

N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L I n i s h o w e n Pe n i n s u l a 535

Nearly every building is old and well kept up

in a way thats more proud than prissy. It
can be rather sleepy, but on holiday weekends tourists from Northern Ireland flood the
town. Moville was a busy port during the 19th
and early 20th centuries, when thousands of
emigrants set sail for America from here. The
coastal walkway from Moville to Greencastle
takes in the stretch of coast where the steamers used to moor, and also affords some rewarding bird-watching opportunities. Theres
fishing off the pier for mackerel, mullet and
coalfish.
Main St has several banks with ATMs and
the post office.
SIGHTS

By the gate of the Cooley gravehouse is an

unusual 3m-high cross. Note the ringhole in
its head through it, the hands of negotiating parties are said to have clasped to seal an
agreement. Whether they were uncommonly
tall or stood on boxes remains a mystery. In
the graveyard is the Skull House, which is associated with St Finian, the monk who accused Colmcille of plagiarising one of his
manuscripts in the 6th century. He lived in a
monastery here that was founded by St Patrick
and survived into the 12th century.
Approaching Moville from the south, look
out for a turning on the left that has a sign
on the corner for the Cooley Pitch & Putt. If

you pass a church, youve gone too far. The

graveyard is just over 1km up this road on
the right.
FESTIVALS

The cross-border Foyle Oyster Festival (%938

2753; Main St) sees much scoffing of seafood in
late September.
SLEEPING & EATING

Moville Holiday Hostel (%938 2378; Malin Rd; dm 15;

p) A private, unpaved road curves off the
main highway heading west of town, leading
into a grove of trees and this secluded hostel.
Its in an old stone house beside a bubbling
brook. Very peaceful and near enough the
main drag to walk.
Barrons Caf (%938 2472; Lower Main St; s/d
28/56) The caf isnt much to write home
about (though it may be convenient), but the
guestrooms upstairs are happy little dens and
very tidy. Its run by a friendly older couple.
Naomh Mhure (%938 2091; [email protected]; Main St; with/without bathroom s 40/35, d 70/60;
hMar-Sep) This pleasant town house sits on a

street corner in the heart of the town. It has

six plain but well-kept rooms, most of which
use a shared bathroom.
Carlton Redcastle Hotel (%938 5555; www.carlton
redcastlehotel.com; d 200, mains 14-27; p) The peninsulas flashiest luxury resort is along the lough,
just north of Moville. Its rooms are indeed

TWITCHING ON INISHOWEN
Because it is surrounded by vast estuarine areas and pokes into the sea at Irelands northernmost
point, the Inishowen Peninsula naturally attracts a lot of birdlife. The variety of species is tremendous, with well over 200 species passing through or residing permanently on the peninsula. Inishowen regularly receives well-travelled visitors from Iceland, Greenland and North America. Thanks
to irregularities in the Atlantic winds, rare and exotic species blow in from time to time.
Along the peninsulas Lough Foyle side, particularly north of Moville, a twitcher may hope to
spot swans and geese in great numbers, along with cormorants diving into the lough for fish.
The gannet, with its 1.8m wingspan, is among Irelands most impressive birds. Coal tits, herons
and puffins all appear along the shore here. Turning to the land, you are likely to see magpies,
starlings, wrens, plovers and turtledoves. Sparrow-hawks and peregrine falcons sometimes hover
above, in search of prey.
Many of these same species, including the gannet, also appear on Malin Head, the islands
northern tip. Here, many birds nest on the cliffs, including guillemots, fulmers and shags. In
autumn, manx shearwaters stop on Malin Head, before continuing their long migration to South
America.
Inch Island, sitting off the peninsulas Lough Swilly shore, is a protected bird sanctuary that
attracts whooper swans by the dozen.
A helpful resource for birders is Irelands Birds, by Eric Demsey and Michael OClery. Online,
visit www.birdsireland.com.

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

Inishtrahull
Sound

Banba's
Crown

Malin
Head

6 km
4 miles

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536 N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L I n i s h o w e n Pe n i n s u l a

comfortable and classy, and the resorts Thalasso Spa is a major draw. If you dont require
so much pampering, but consider yourself a
gastronome, drop in for a meal at the lauded
Waters Edge Restaurant, overlooking the estuary. Its in an exquisite setting and the menu
fully exploits the local bounty.
DRINKING

There are a couple of friendly pubs along the

Malin Rd, less than a block from the Market Sq.
Rawdons (%938 2225; Malin Rd) features live music
on Friday night. Even better is Rosatos (%938
2247; Malin Rd), a smart old joint that also does
good Italian food along with bar standards. It
has live music on summer weekends.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

Greencastle
%074 / pop 570

Seals can be spotted bobbing their smooth

heads hopefully in the busy little fishing port
of Greencastle (An Cislen Nua), north of
Moville. The town gets its name from the
castle built in 1305 by Richard de Burgo,
known as the Red Earl of Ulster because of
his florid complexion. The Green Castle was
a supply base for English armies in Scotland,
and for this reason was attacked by Robert
Bruce in the 1320s. The castles vine-netted
hulk survives.
A disarmingly eccentric collection of artefacts can be found at the Inishowen Maritime
Museum and Planetarium (%938 1363; www.inishowen
maritime.com; museum adult/child 5/3, planetarium 10/6;
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm OctMar), in a former coastguard station next to

the harbour. The most fascinating exhibits

are from the sunken wrecks of Lough Foyle,
including, in pride of place, a pair of perfectly preserved military-issue boxer shorts
salvaged by marine archaeologists from a
ditched WWII bomber. The demise of the
Spanish Armada and the departure from
these waters of Irish immigrants are two
of the museums more compelling themes.
Take caution if visiting on a day when local
children are testing their home-made rockets
out front.
The simple, harbour-side Kealys Seafood
Bar (%938 1010; mains 11-27; h12.30-3pm & 7-10pm

Jun & Aug, Thu-Sun only Sep-May) is decorated with

awards for its seafood. If the catch came any

fresher youd have to fight the seals for it.
Five Lough Swilly (%912 2863) buses travel
daily, Monday to Saturday, between Derry
and Shrove, passing through Greencastle
(7.50, one hour).
Lough Foyle Ferry (%938 1901; www.loughfoyleferry
.com) also has a car-ferry service to Magilligan
roughly every 25 minutes from outside the
museum. Single fares per car/motorbike/
adult/child cost 9/4.50/2/1, and the crossing takes just 15 minutes. It runs every 15
minutes from 7.20am Monday to Saturday
and 9am Sunday year-round. The last ferry is
at 9.50pm, April to September, and 7.50pm,
October to March.

Inishowen Head
A right turn outside Greencastle leads to
Stroove; a sign indicating Inishowen Head
is 1km along this road. Its possible to drive
or cycle part of the way, but its also an easy
walk to the headland, from where you can see
(on a clear day) the Antrim coast as far as the
Giants Causeway. A more demanding walk
continues to the sandy beach of Kinnagoe Bay.

Culdaff & Around

%074 / pop 180

This is a lovely spot, where sheep vastly outnumber the people. The sleepy, secluded,
resort village of Culdaff (Cil Dabhcha) is
surrounded by several ancient sites, but the
main draw is a country inn with an impressive
live-music venue. The village is on the main
MovilleCarndonagh road (R238).
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Sheep now wander the remains of the Clonca

church and cross. Inside, an intricately carved
tombstone sporting a sword and hurling-stick
motif was erected by one Magnus MacOrristin. The carved lintel over the door is thought
to come from an earlier church. Outside, the
remains of the cross show the miracle of the
loaves and fishes on the eastern face and geometric designs on the sides.
Look for the turn-off to Culdaff, on the
right if coming from Moville, on the left after
about 6km if coming from Carndonagh. The
Clonca church and cross are 1.5km on the
right behind some farm buildings. A necklace of around 30 prehistoric stones, called
the Bocan Stone Circle, embroiders a farmers

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N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L I n i s h o w e n Pe n i n s u l a 537

field east of Clonca Church. From Clonca,

continue along the road until you reach a
T-junction with a modern church facing you.
Turn right here and after about 500m turn left
(no sign). The Bocan Stone Circle is inside the
first heather-covered field on the left.
The plain stumpy-armed Carrowmore High
Crosses are all that remain of an ancient monastic site straddling a small lane. One is basically
a decorated slab showing Christ and an angel,
while the other is a taller, unadorned cross.
From Bocan Stone Circle and Clonca
Church, retrace the route back to the main
CarndonaghMoville road and turn left, then
almost immediately right.
Culdaff has a beach thats good for swimming and windsurfing and, from Bunagee Pier,
sea angling and diving are popular.
SLEEPING & EATING

To the east a longer headland walk leads to

the Wee House of Malin, a hermits cave in the
cliff face.
Several endangered bird species thrive
here. This is one of the few places in Ireland
where you can still hear the call of the endangered corncrake in summer. Other birds
to look out for are choughs, snow bunting
and puffins.
The Plantation village of Malin (Mlainn),
on Trawbreaga Bay, 14km south of Malin
Head, has a pretty movie-set quality. Walkers can head out from the tidy village green
on a circular route that takes in Knockamany
Bens, a local hill with terrific views, as well
as Lagg Presbyterian Church (3km northwest
from Malin), the oldest church still in use
on the peninsula. The massive sand dunes at
Five Fingers Strand, another 1km beyond the
church, are a dogs dream.

McGrorys of Culdaff (%937 9104; www.mcgrorys.ie;

Culdaff; s/d 70/120, mains 9-23; hbar food 12.30-8pm,
restaurant 6.30-9 Tue-Sat, 1-3pm & 6-8.30pm Sun; p) This

is a good place to count sheep. It has 17 spiffy

rooms, all smartly decorated with a modern
eye. Before sleeping, however, head downstairs to catch live music in Macs Backroom,
which books international singer-songwriters. An old stone pub and restaurant serves
traditional Irish food.

SLEEPING & EATING

Sandrock Holiday Hostel

( % 937 0289;
[email protected]; Port Ronan Pier, Malin Head; dm
10-12; pw) Visitors are welcomed like fam-

Malin Head

ily at this perennially popular IHH hostel on

the western side of the headland. Its situated
in a rocky bay, where seafood can sometimes
be bought straight off the boats. Sandrock has
20 remarkably cosy beds, laundry facilities,
pick-up and bike hire (9 per day).
Malin Head Hostel (%937 0309; www.malinhead

%074

hostel.com; Malin Head; dm/d 13/36;hJul-Sep; p)

If youve already seen Irelands southernmost

point and its westernmost point, youll still be
impressed when you lay eyes on Malin Head
(Cionn Mhlanna), the islands northern
extent. The heads rocky, weather-battered
slopes feel like theyre being dragged unwillingly into the sea. Its great for wandering on
foot, absorbing the stark natural setting and
pondering deep subjects as the wind tries to
blow the clothes off your back. There are a
smattering of farm houses and few services,
so pack what youll be needing.
On the northernmost tip, called Banbas
Crown (Forcheann ireann), stands a cumbersome cliff-top tower that was built in 1805
by the British admiralty and later used as a
Lloyds signal station. Around it are unattractive concrete huts that were used by the
Irish army in WWII as lookout posts. To the
west from the fort-side car park, a path leads
to Hells Hole, a chasm where the incoming
waters crash against the rocky formations.

The picture of orderliness, this friendly 20bed IHH hostel has free hot showers and an
organic garden where you can buy fruit and
vegetables. Theres also aromatherapy and
reflexology treatments (per reflexology/fullbody massage 35/45). Theres a shop nearby
and local buses stop at the hostel.
Malin Hotel (%937 0606; [email protected]; Malin;
s/d from 65/110, mains 10-23; hbar food 12.30-3pm,
restaurant 6-10pm) From the street youll first spot

the old pub, but look beyond it and youll

also see a modern, boxlike hotel piled up to
the rear. It has lavishly decorated rooms, and
the pub-restaurant serves up good Irish food.
Theres entertainment at the weekend.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

The best way to approach Malin Head is

by the R238/242 from Carndonagh, rather
than up the eastern side from Culdaff. Lough
Swilly (%912 2863) operates a bus that runs on
Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 11am

COUNTY DONEGAL

COUNTY DONEGAL

Lough Swilly (%912 2863) runs four buses daily

Monday to Saturday to Moville (7, 45 minutes) from Derry.

lonelyplanet.com

538 N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L I n i s h o w e n Pe n i n s u l a

between Derry and Malin Head via Carndonagh (4, 30 minutes); on the same days
a bus leaves Carndonagh at 3pm for Malin
Head. There are three buses from Derry to
Malin Head on Saturday.

Carndonagh
%074 / pop 1680

Carndonagh (Cardomhnach), surrounded

by hills on three sides, is a busy commercial
centre serving the local farming community. Its not a choice locale in these parts,
but convenient for gathering information
and provisions.
The helpful, locally run Inishowen tourism
office (%937 4933; www.visitinishowen.com; Chapel St;

Glashedy 65/75) is among the best places to golf

in Donegal. The scenery is so beautiful that it

can distract even the most focused golfer.

beach on the shores of Lough Swilly is the

towns main attraction, and in summer hordes
flock in from Derry.

SLEEPING & EATING

INFORMATION

Ballyliffin & Clonmany

%074 / pop 700

SIGHTS

Once an important ecclesiastical centre,

Carndonagh has several early Christian
stone monuments. Not least, the delightful 7th-century Donagh Cross stands under a
shelter by an Anglican church at the Ballyliffin end of town. Its carved with a darling short-bodied, big-eyed figure of Jesus,
smiling impishly. Flanking the cross are two
small pillars, one showing a man, possibly
Goliath, with a sword and shield, the other,
David and his harp. In the graveyard theres
a pillar with a carved marigold on a stem
and nearby a crucifixion scene.

About 1km north of Ballyliffin is the lovely,

sandy expanse of Pollan Strand, but the crashing breakers make it unsafe for swimming. A
walk along the dunes to the north of this beach
brings you to Doagh Island (now part of the
mainland), where the matchbox ruin of 16thcentury Carrickbraghey Castle (Carraic Brachaide) is continually battered by the ocean.
Also on the island is the enthusiastically
thrown-together Doagh Famine Village (%937
8078; www.doaghfaminevillage.com; Doagh Island; adult/child
6/4; h10am-5.30pm Apr-Sep) in a reconstructed

village of thatched cottages. It runs a terrific

tour packed with entertaining titbits about a
disappearing way of life, and takes a refreshing
approach to the Famine by making insightful
comparisons with famine-stricken countries
today. Tea and scones are included in the
admission fee. Call ahead to book the tour.
The other beach is at Tullagh Strand. Its great
for an exhilarating walk and, although swimming is possible, the current can be strong and
it isnt recommended when the tide is going
out. There are walks to Butlers Glen and Dunaff
Head from Clonmany.

Tullagh Bay Camping & Caravan Park (%937 8997;

Tullagh Bay; camp sites 14; hEaster-Sep) About 5km
from Clonmany, this windy but flat park
is ideal for the bucket-and-spade brigade
as its just behind the vast, dune-backed
Tullagh Strand.
Rossaor House (%937 6498; [email protected];
Ballyliffin; s 45-50, d 70-80; p) Its worth the extra
few euros to stay at this above-average B&B
just outside town. Quite apart from its wonderful views, pristine rooms and leafy little
garden, where else can you request homeproduced honey on your freshly baked scones?
Ballyliffin Lodge (%937 8200; www.ballyliffinlodge
.com; d from 200, bar food 6-14, restaurant mains 16-30)

This spa hotel is the class of Ballyliffin. Guests

are treated to panoramic views, lavishly decorated rooms and mod amenities. The resorts
leisure facilities include a state-of-the-art spa
and a golf course. The hotels Holly Tree Restaurant oozes cosmopolitan sophistication,
while its bar, Mamie Pats, is a more laidback
spot for a straightforward pub meal.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

Lough Swilly (%912 2863) buses run between

Clonmany and Carndonagh (3.50, 20 minutes); see opposite.

Clonmany to Buncrana
There are two routes from Clonmany to Buncrana: the scenic coastal road via the Gap of
Mamore and Dunree Head, and the speedier
inland road (R238). The Gap of Mamore (elevation 262m) descends dramatically between
Mamore Hill and Croaghcarragh on its way
to Dunree (An Dn Riabhach), where the Guns
of Dunree military museum (%074-936 1817; www
.dunree.pro.ie; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun JunSep, 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sat & Sun Oct-May) sits

on a rocky outcrop in a 19th-century fort. Its

a beautiful spot. If the guns dont impress you,
the scenery and birdlife will.

Buncrana
%074 / pop 3490

ACTIVITIES

With two championship courses, Ballyliffin

Golf Club (%937 6119; www.ballyliffingolfclub.com;
Ballyliffin; green fees weekday/weekend Old Links 50/55,

Buncrana (Bun Cranncha) is not the wild side

of the peninsula, and feels much more connected with the outside world. Its a comely
town with its fair share of pubs. A 5km sandy

Bank of Ireland (Lower Main St) ATM and bureau de

change.

Post office (Upper Main St)

Tourist office (%936 2600; Derry Rd; h11am3.30pm Fri, 11.30am-2pm Sat summer) One kilometre
south of the town centre.
Ulster Bank (Upper Main St) ATM and bureau de change.
Valu Clean (%936 2570; Lower Main St; laundry from
6) Laundry service.
SIGHTS

At the northern end of the seafront the early18th-century, six-arched Castle Bridge leads
to ODochertys Keep, a tower house built by the
ODochertys, the local chiefs, in 1430. It was
burned by the English and then rebuilt for
their own use. At its side is the manor-like
Buncrana Castle, built in 1718 by John Vaughan,
who also constructed the bridge; Wolfe Tone
was imprisoned here following the unsuccessful French invasion in 1798. Walking 500m
further from the keep (turn left and stick to
the shoreline) brings you to Neds Point Fort
(1812), built by the British and now under
siege from graffiti artists.
SLEEPING & EATING

B&Bs abound, but they can fill up quickly

during August.
Tullyarvan Mill (%936 1613; www.tullyarvanmill
.com; Carndonagh Rd; dm/d/q 15/40/60; hyear-round;
piw) Amid beautiful riverside gardens,

this historic mill has a modern, purpose-built

hostel attached to it. Dorms are clean as army
barracks and each bed has a locker beside
it for personal storage. The compound has
a lively vibe, due to the cultural events and
conferences that seem to be happening all the
time. Head north out of town on the R238 and
follow the signs.
Caldra B&B (% 936 3703; caldrabandb@eircom
.net; Lisnakelly; s/d 25/50, mains 5-15; hfood served
8.15am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 10.30am-9pm Sun)

This large, modern B&B faces Lough Swilly.

Guestrooms are decorated with flair. Its just
north of town.
Lake of Shadows Hotel (%936 1005; www.lake
ofshadows.com; Griann Park; s 54-62, d 88-104; p) A
fine Victorian faade brings to mind past generations coming to take the sea air here. Its

COUNTY DONEGAL

SIGHTS

If youre off to Malin Head for the day or

going on to the camping ground at Clonmany, stock up with provisions at the Costcutter supermarket in the large shopping
centre on Bridge St.
Ashdale House (%937 4017; www.ashdalehouse
.net; s/d 47/64; hMar-Nov; p) This large family home, 1km out of town on the road
towards Malin, is Carndonaghs best B&B.
Its a cheerful modern house that modestly
evokes an Irish traditional manor.
Arch Inn (%937 3209; the Diamond; snacks around
5) In the main square, the Arch does good
soup and sandwiches by day and hosts a traditional music session on Sunday evening.

N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L I n i s h o w e n Pe n i n s u l a 539

A Lough Swilly (%912 2863) bus leaves Buncrana

for Carndonagh (5.30, 45 minutes) three
times daily (except Tuesday and Wednesday,
when it departs once each day) and Sunday
(no service). On weekdays they return from
Carndonagh three times daily. Lough Swilly
also runs a bus between Derry (8, 55 minutes) and Malin Head via Carndonagh daily
Monday, Wednesday and Friday and three
times Saturday.

diamond, also sells fishing licences for all

of Donegal. There are three banks on the
diamond and AIB has an ATM; the post office is in the shopping centre halfway down
Bridge St towards the Donagh Cross.

SLEEPING & EATING

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

GETTING THERE & AWAY

For such a diminutive and remote seaside

resort, easygoing Ballyliffin (Baile Lifin) does
a roaring summer trade. It has a handful of
good hotels, which somehow soak up an army
of Northern Irish holidaymakers, who come
to play golf on the two championship 18-hole
courses, and enjoy the local beaches.
Both villages have post offices but
no banks.

h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri Sep-May, 9.30am-7pm MonFri, 11am-4pm Sat Jun & Aug), southwest of the

COUNTY DONEGAL

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 Lonely Planet Publications

540 N O R T H E A S T E R N D O N E G A L I n i s h o w e n Pe n i n s u l a

23 modern, but fading, flowery rooms help

maintain the image. To get here from Main St,
head down Church St towards the bay.
Beach House (%936 1050; www.thebeachhouse.ie; the

cate Celtic weave, and the barely discernible

Greek inscription is the only one known from
this early Christian period.

Pier, Swilly Rd; mains 11-23; h5pm-late Tue-Fri, noon-late

Sat & Sun) With plate glass windows facing the

GRIANN OF AILECH

lough, the location here couldnt be better.

The dining room projects an elegant simplicity that complements the contemporary Irish
cuisine. Service is friendly and attentive.
ENTERTAINMENT

Dating from 1792, the Atlantic Bar (%932 0880;

Upper Main St) is Buncranas oldest pub. Chummy
older gents keep the bar, and young and old
swill pints.
GETTING THERE & AROUND

COUNTY DONEGAL

lonelyplanet.com

From Buncrana, Lough Swilly (%912 2863) buses

run several times daily to Derry and less often
to Carndonagh.
Lough Swilly Ferry (%938 1901; www.loughfoyleferry
.com) runs from Buncrana to Rathmullan (30
minutes, nine daily, single car/motorbike/
adult/concession 12/6/3/2) from mid-June
to September. Pick up a current timetable at
the tourist office.

South of Buncrana
FAHAN

A monastery was founded in Fahan by St Colmcille in the 6th century. Among its ruins is
the beautifully carved, 7th-century St Mura
Cross in the graveyard beside the church.
Each face is decorated with a cross, in intri-

This amphitheatre-like stone fort (admission free;

h10am-6pm; p) encircles the top of Griann
Hill like a halo, 18km south of Buncrana near
Burt, signposted off the N13. In many ways its
a very theatrical place, offering eye-popping
views of the surrounding loughs and all the
way to distant Derry. And its miniarena can
resemble a circus whenever a tour bus rolls up
and spills its load inside the 4m-thick walls.
The fort may have existed at least 2000
years ago, but its thought that the site itself
goes back to pre-Celtic times as a temple to
the god Dagda. Between the 5th and 12th
centuries it was the seat of the ONeills, before
being demolished by Murtogh OBrien, king
of Munster. Most of what you see now is a reconstruction built between 1874 and 1878.
The merry-go-round-shaped Burt Church at
the foot of the hill was modelled on the fort by
Derry architect Liam McCormack and built
in 1967.
INCH ISLAND

Few tourists make it to tranquil Inch Island,

accessible from the mainland by a causeway,
but it does have plenty of birdlife, including
a sanctuary for swans, two small beaches and
the remains of an old fort. Inch Island Stables
(%074-936 0335) organises horse-riding lessons
and trips around the island.

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