08-Mar-16

Marker and Marker planning

Marker:
It is a long thin paper which contains all
necessary pattern pieces for different
sizes for a particular style of garments

The length also depends on Number of garments to be produced from

a spread lay
Length of cutting table
Production planning etc.

Purpose of Marker Making

For optimum utilization of fabric

Reduction of fabric wastage
Speeding up the production process
Get maximum number of pattern pieces from one lay of fabric

Spreading
Spreading The process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables
in preparation for cutting each piece of garment

Types of Fabric spreading:

i. Flat Spreading
ii. Stepped Spreading

Precautions needed while spreading fabric:

i. Alignment of plies
ii. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws
iii. Correct ply direction
iv. Correct ply tension
v. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease

08-Mar-16

Spreading related Equipment

Tables
- Normal table
- Vacuum table
- Conveyor table
- Pinned table

Pinned Table

Vacuum Table

Fabric Loaders
Fabric weights/Clamps/Pins

Fabric Weights

Fabric clamps

Fabric Roll Loader

Spreading- Methods
Spreading

Machine
Assisted
Spreading

SemiAutomatic

Manual
Spreading

Fully
Automatic

08-Mar-16

Manual Spreading Machines

Operating procedure:
Fabric is carefully pulled out with help of hands
Then, fabric is spread and cut to appropriate
requirements
Process is continued to form layers

Advantages:
Easy to operate
Low investment
Suitable for small scale garment industries

Limitations:

Speed limitation
Skilled labor required to operate
Chances of improper selvedge alignment
Small roll size

Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines

Operating Procedure:
Same as Manual Spreader
Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be
controlled by buttons

Advantages:
Fast and economical
Proper selvedge alignment
Ease to operate with electronic clutch

Limitations:

Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual

Not suitable for large scale manufacturing houses
Small roll size

08-Mar-16

Fully Automatic Spreading Machines

Features:
Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls
Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back
lay
Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
Automatic cutting device at the end of a run
Automatic tensioning device to control fabric
tension
Automatic lay height sensing elevator
Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying
Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min

Cutting
Cutting It is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric
for making garments

Types of Fabric cutting machines:

i. Manual, e.g. scissors, cutters
ii. Semi-automatic, e.g. Round knife cutter, band knife cutter, etc.
iii. Fully computerized, e.g. Laser, water jet, etc.

Precautions needed while spreading fabric:

i. Safety first, gloves, eye covers, clothing etc.
ii. Stability of fabric layers
iii. Care of cutting blades and machine
iv. Selecting correct type of cutting equipment for a cut
v. Precautions for heating of blades

08-Mar-16

Manual Cutting Equipment

Scissors
Are normally used when cutting only single or double plies
Laser guided scissors

Advantages:
Almost all types of cloths are cut by scissors
Very cheap

Limitations and disadvantages:

Electric Scissors

Cannot be used for mass production

Cannot cut more than 2-3 piles of fabrics
Low speed
Impossible to work continuously for long hours
Decorative Edge scissors

Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment

Straight knife

Round knife

Advantages

Comparatively cheap
Production speed is very good
Rough work can be easily done by hands

Band knife

Notcher machine

Disadvantages
Faulty knife could damage fabric layer
Knife required to change
Weight of the motor creates knife deflection which may
be creates faulty pieces

08-Mar-16

Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment

Computerized cutting
machine

Laser cutting machine

Advantages

Cutting defects are less

Less labor cost
Suitable for very large scale of production
No need of marker paper

Water-jet fabric cutting

Plasma cutting machine

Disadvantages
Very expensive machines
Very high on maintenance
Not suitable for cutting multi level fabric (waterjet, laser)
Not suitable for synthetic fabric(laser cutting)

CUTTING PROCESS
CUTTING IS THE PREPRODUCTION PROCESS OF
SEPARATING (SECTIONING,CARVING,SEVERING) A
SPREAD INTO GARMENT PARTS THAT ARE THE PRECISE
SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE PATTERN PIECES ON A
MARKER.
IT MAY ALSO INVOLVE TRANSFERING MARKS AND
NOTCHES FROM THE MARKER TO GARMENT PARTS TO
ASSIST OPERATORS IN SEWING.

08-Mar-16

CUTTING EQUIPMENTS
THE EQUIPMENTS USED IN CUTTING PROCESS ARE CALLED CUTTING
EQUIPMENTS.
PORTABLE CUTTING KNIVES
STATIONARY CUTTERS
SERVO CUTTERS
SPECIALIZED CUTTING MACHINES
EQUIPMENTS FOR TRANSFERRING MARKS.

PORTABLE KNIVES
CAN BE MOVED TO AND THROUGH A SPREAD BY AN OPERATOR.
VERTICAL RECIPROCATING STRAIGHT KNIVES
2. ROUND KNIVES
1.

STRUCTURALLY AND MECHANICALLY THESE TWO TYPES OF MACHINE

SHARE MANY SIMILARITIES. STRUCTURALLY BOTH TYPE OF KNIVES HAVE A
BASE PLATE,POWER SYSTEM, HANDLE,CUTTING BLADE,SHARPENING
DEVICE, AND BLADE GUARD.

08-Mar-16

VERTICAL STRAIGHT KNIVES

VERTICAL STRAIGHT
KNIVES WITH
RECIPROCATING
BLADES ARE THE
KNIGHT OF CUTTING.
CUT WITH A UP AND
DOWN ACTION.
MOST COMMONLY USED

08-Mar-16

STRAIGHT KNIVES
BLADES VARY IN LENGTH FROM 6 TO 14 INCHES.
BLADE LENGTH AND THE ADJUSTABLE HEIGHTS OF THE BLADE GUARD ARE FACTORS IN
DETERMINING THE SPREAD DEPTH.THAT CAN BE CUT.
THE 90 DEGREE ANGLE OF THE NARROW ,THIN BLADE TO THE CUTTING SURFACE MAKES
THIS KNIFE A GOOD CCHOICE FOR ACCURATELY CUTTING SHARP CORNERS,ANGLES AND
CURVES.
MAKE ONLY LATARAL CUTS INTO A SPREAD
CANNOT BE USED TO CUT OUT AREAS FROM THE CENTRE OF GARMENT PARTS.
TO REMOVE A SECTION OF FABRIC WITHOUTCUTTING INTO THE AREAS REQUIRES A
SLASHER.
ADAPTED VERSION OF A VERTICAL KNIVES
IT CUTS INTO THE SPREAD FROM ABOVE MUCH THE SAME AS A JIGSAW AND CUTS AROUND
THE SECTION OF FABRIC TO BE REMOVED.

ROTARY OR ROUND KNIVES

A ROUND BLADE THAT CUTS WITH A DOWNWARD TURN ATBTHE
LEADING EDGE.
OPERATES WITH A ONE WAY THRUST
TTING CAPACITY IS DETERMINED
BY THE RADIUS OF THE BLADE,
MOTOR SIZE AND SPEED.
CANNOT MANIPULATE AROUND
TIGHT CURVES AND SHARP
ANGLES.
USED FOR ST.CUTS AND LARGE
RADIUS CURVES.

08-Mar-16

BASIC COMPONENTS
OF
PORTABLE KNIVES
BLADES
1.
2.
3.
4.

ARE MOUNTED IN A VERTICAL POSITION.

VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES,CUTTING ACTION AND EDGE FINENESS.
AFFECT THE QUALITY OF CUT
MAY BE FLAT SURFACE,SAW TOOTHED,SERRATED, OR WAVY
WITH A STRIATED SURFACES

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08-Mar-16

BASE PLATE
SUPPORTING FOUNDATION TO BALANCE THE CUTTING.
VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES DEPENDING UPON THE SIZE AND
WEIGHT OF THE KNIFE
GUIDES THE KNIFE IN RELATION WITH THE CUTTING
TABLE
THEY ARE SUPPORTED BY BERAING ROLLERS
EDGE OF THE PLATE IS SLOPED

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08-Mar-16

POWER SYSTEM
CONTROLS THE MOTOR AND POTENTIAL CUTTING
SPEED
THE AMOUNT OF POWER NEEDED TO CUT A
SPREAD DEPENDS ON THE HEIGHT OF THE
SPREAD AND THE DENSITY OF THE FABRIC TO BE
CUT
HORSEPOWER DETERMINES THE AMOUNT OF
THRUST
HIGHER SPEED MEANS KNIFE MOVING FASTER
GREATER HORSEPOWER INCREASES MACHINE
POWER AND WEIGHT ALSO

SHARPENING DEVICE
APPROPRIATE FOR THE SPECIFIC BLADE TYPES
BLADES DULL QUICKLY WHEN CUTTING A DEEP SPREAD OR
DENSE FABRIC
PREVENTS ROUGH ,FRAYED,OR FUSED EDGES
MAY BE STONE OR EMERY WHEELS OR ABRASIVE BET
SHARPENERS

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08-Mar-16

HANDLE

TO GRIP,GUIDE AND PROPEL THE KNIFE

THE SPREAD

THROUGH

BLADE GUARD

RESTS ON THE TOP PLY TO HELP STABILIZE THE

SPREAD AND TO PROTECT THE OPERATORS HAND
METAL MESH GLOVES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE AS A SAFETY
DEVICE

STATIONERY CUTTERS
ARE THOSE CUTTING MACHINES THAT HAVE BLADES OR CUTTING
DEVICES THAT REMAIN IN FIXED POSITION
TWO BASIC TYPES
1. BAND KNIVES
2. DIE CUTTERS

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08-Mar-16

BAND KNIFE

BAND KNIFE
FINE BLADES THAT ROTATE THROGH A SLOT IN THE CUTTING
TABLE
CAN BE USED TO MAKE ONLY LATERAL CUTS
BLADES ARE FINER AND NARROWER THAN RECIPROCATING
BLADES
TEMPLATES OF PLASTICS OR HEAVY CARDBOARD MAY BE
PLACED ON ON TOP OF A SECTIONED BLOCK TO PROVIDE A
GUIDE FOR CUTTING SPECIFIC SHAPES
SAFETY CONCERNS ARE MORE

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08-Mar-16

DIE CUTTING
MOST ACCURATE MEAN OF CUTTING
DIES ARE PRESHAPED METAL OUTLINES WITH ONE
CUTTING EDGE
BASIC PARTS
1. TABLE BLOCK
2. RAM HEAD
3. MOTOR
4. RAM DRIVE
SYSTEM

contd..
WHEN AN OPERATOR ENGAGES THE MACHINE,THE RAM HEAD
MOVES INTO THE PLACE ABOVE THE DIE,APPLIES TONS OF
PRESSURE TO THE DIE,RELEASES AND RETURNS TO
POSITION.CUTTING ACTION IS VERTICAL AS THE RAM PRESSES
THE DIE INTO THE SURFACE OF THE FABRIC.
FREQUENTLY USED FOR SMALL PIECES OF HIGH ACCRACY LIKE
COLLARS,POCKET FLAPS OR APPLIQUES
LEATHER GOODS ARE FREQUENTLY CUT
CAN ALSO BE USED TO CUT SHAPES FROM THE CENTER OF THE
GARMENT PARTS

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08-Mar-16

contd..
DIE CUTTING IS LABOR
INTENSIVE WHEN DIES
ARE MANUALLY PLACED
IT CAN BE AUTOMATED
FOR CONTINUOUS LINE
CUTTING
A SINGLE DIE FOR A
T SHIRT WOULD CONTAIN
A SINGLE PIECE BODY
UTILIZING A FOLD AT
CENTRE FRONT AND
CENTRE BACK DOVETAILED
WITH A SLEEVE SHAPE.

SERVO CUTTER
A BRIDGE BETWEEN COMPUTER CONTROLLED AND MANUAL CUTTING
OVERHEAD SERVO MOTOR WITH ADJUSTABLE SPEED AND A SUSPENSION
SYSTEM THAT SUPPORTS A KNIFE PERPENDICULAR TO THE CUTTING TABLE
THIS REDUCES PROBLEM WITH TILTING THE BLADE AND INACCURATE
CUTTING
IT CAN MAKE TIGHTER TURNS WITH LESS DISTORTION IN THE LAY
IT COMBINES VERTICAL CUTTING AND BAND KNIFE CUTTING INTO ONE
MACHINE
DEEPER SPREADS WITH GREATER ACCURACY
LESSERINVESTMENT THAN COMPUTERIZED CUTTER

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08-Mar-16

SPECIALIZED CUTTING MACHINES

DESIGNED FOR SPECIFIC OPERATIONS AND SPECIFIC PRODUCTS

CLOTH CUT STRIP MACHINE

WIRELESS RECHARGEABLE ELECTRIC SCISSOR

MINI ROUND CUTTER

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08-Mar-16

TRANSFERRING MARKS
MARKS AND NOTCHES ARE TRANSFERRED FROM MARKERS TO THE
PERIMETER OR INTERNAL SURFACES OF GARMENT PARTS TO
FACILITATE THE SEWING OPERATION
MARKS SHOULD NOT DAMAGE OR DISCOLOUR THE VISIBLE PARTS OF
THE GARMENTS.
EDGE MARKS
2. INTERNAL MARKS
1.

AUTOMATED,NUMERICALLY CONTROLLED CUTTING

SYSTEM

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08-Mar-16

ELEMENTS OF CNC
TABLE
CUTTING HEAD
I. SERVO MOTOR A
II. KNIFE
III. SHARPENER
CARRIAGE
I. SERVO MOTOR B
II. SERVO MOTOR C
III. SERVO MOTOR D

KNIFE CUTTER
CNC for leather

SPEED= 5-12 m/sec

Length of knife depends upon

number of plies.

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08-Mar-16

Types of knifes used

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08-Mar-16

LASER CUTTER
It is a V shaped beam of width of
0.004 inch.
Cutting speed= 30-40 m/min
Heat produced tends to seal fabric.
It can focus to limited depth
Suitable for cutting single ply.
More accurate

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08-Mar-16

Laser cutting CNC

WATER JET CUTTERS

Width=0.0010-0.0015 inch
Pressure=70,000 pounds/square inch
Does not cause fusing.
May fray and tangle yarns.
Suitable for cutting leather and vinyl
fabrics.

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08-Mar-16

Water jet cutters

Cutting Source : High Pressure Water + Abrasive
Table(Cutting Table Unit)
- High rigidity and precision feed system driven with X-axis and 2-axis
simultaneous driving mechanism, in
- gantry structure
- Ball-Screw Feed driver enables high precision feeding
(Repetitive Accuracy: 0.03mm, Position Accuracy: 0.05mm)
- Nut-mechanism provides high speed/high accuracy driving
- Block Lattice can be replaced according to user requirement, or by - individual Lattice replacement

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08-Mar-16

4000 Series Cantilever WaterJet

Comparison
Abrasive Water Jet v Laser

AWJ strengths..
Accuracy the same as Laser but in much thicker
materials
Parts up to 50mm thick in almost any material
No heat-affected zone to prevent secondary
operations

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08-Mar-16

ULTRASONIC CUTTERS
Produces vibration freqyency of 20 kHz
10 plies can be cut.
Lower price than laser cutter.

PLASMA JET
High temperature ionised gas acts as
Heat emission causes damage.

cutter.

PLASMA CUTTER

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08-Mar-16

Plasma cutting is a process that is used to cut steel and other metals (or sometimes
other materials like textiles) using a plasma torch.
In this process, an inert gas (in some units, compressed air) is blown at high speed
out of a nozzle; at the same time an electrical arc is formed through that gas from the
nozzle to the surface being cut, turning some of that gas to plasma.
The plasma is sufficiently hot to melt the metal being cut and moves sufficiently fast
to blow molten metal away from the cut. Plasma can also be used for plasma arc
welding and other applications.

Specifications:
Input voltage: (50/60Hz) 220V +/- 10% 1PH
Frequency (Hz): 50/60
Rated input current (A): 22.1
No-load voltage (V): 230
Out current adjustment (V): 20-40
Rated working voltage (V): 96
Duty cycle (%): 60
No-load loss (W): 40
Efficiency (%): 85
Power factor: 0.93
Insulation grade: B
Housing protection: IP21
Pilot arc model: touch
Cutting thickness (mm): 1-16
Gross weight (kg): 9
Fittings: Trafimet101
Dimensions (mm): W 371x D 153 x H 232
Input voltage can be custom made

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08-Mar-16

Air plasma cutter

Features:
Metal plates with different thicknesses can be cut into any
shape
Continuous, adjustable and exact cutting current
Optimized design layout, high frequency inverter, high duty
cycle, low energy consumption
Compact in volume, light in weight, easy to carry,
especially suitable for outdoor, mobile operation

HOW A PLASMA CUTTER WORKS???

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