BUSINE S S INTELLIGENCE FOR LINGERIE & SWIMWE AR PROFE S SIONAL S
FEBRUARY 2012 / VOL. 03 ISSUE 01
www.lingerieinsight.com
BRIDAL SPECIAL
Delve into the world of
bridal lingerie and discover
our new photoshoot
EMILIO
CAVALLINI
SALON
REVIEW
INDEPENDENT
BATTLE
NEW
PRODUCTS
UK GETS SKINY
Skinys MD talks about his
plans for the UK market
MODA PREVIEW
Sneak a peek at what the
brands will be offering in
Birmingham
CLIMATE CHANGE
Michelle Mone advises on how
to overcome the retail blight
PIC
M
Y
O L N DA R
E
CAL IRLS
G
ERS
EMB
M
EAM INGE RIE
GB T
USS L EAR
DISC
IMW
& SW
Lingerie Insight talks to the MD
of Alshaya about the companys
takeover of La Senza UK
Retrolution
plunge back in time
See the new AW12 Collection from Gossard at MODA Stand B12, 19-21 February 2012
www.gossard.com
+44(0) 115 924 6136
[email protected]
SPORT
show your
support
www.berlei.com
LINGERIE UP TO A K CUP
VISIT US AT MODA BIRMINGHAM
HALL 17, STAND C30
FREYALINGERIE.COM
FRONT
11
News Review
A round-up of this months lingerie and retail news.
14
First Stitch
We take a look at the work of emerging maternity lingerie
designer Lorna Drew.
16
17
20
11
Voice of the Industry
Evedens Nigel Addison makes the case for soft cup bras.
Speakers Corner
Industry leaders discuss their experience of SIL in Paris
30
INSIGHT
20
MODA Preview
Plan your time at the UKs largest lingerie exhibition with the
help of our comprehensive show preview.
28
Exclusive interview with La Senzas new owner
Mohammed Alshaya of Kuwaiti retail group M.H. Alshaya
speaks about his plans for Britains lingerie giant.
30
UK Gets Skiny
Brand new to Britain, the Skiny brand is reaching out to
retailers with its stylish new collection.
34
Bridal Special
Summers weddings are being planned and paid for right now
as we discover in our special report and photo shoot.
46
Emilio Cavallini
Italian hosiery house opens up about its plans for the UK.
48
Olympic stars get intimate
Team GB Olympic hopefuls discuss their favourite undies.
56
Battle for independents
Kiss Me Deadly cooperates with its competitors.
28
34
48
46
REGULARS
61
62
56
Object of Desire
The high end piece that has the industry talking this month.
Products Showcase
An inspirational selection of new lingerie and swimwear.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
COMMENT
BUSINE S S INTELLIGENCE FOR LINGERIE & SWIMWE AR PROFE S SIONAL S
ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING
It has been a month of dramatic
business news on the British high
street with La Senza falling into
administration before being rescued
by M.H. Alshaya, a retail collossus
headquartered in Kuwait.
French lingerie brand Lejaby
followed a similar trajectory. It wasnt
until the companys Lyon operation
was effectively shuttered before fresh
finance from abroad rescued the brand,
but not its manufacturing plant. That
work will be heading to the Far East.
It is an all-too familiar story in
todays global economy. Western
European businesses, which have
been saddled with uncompetitive
working practices, unaffordable cost
bases and often unservicable debts,
find themselves acquired using money
generated in the red hot economies of
the Middle East or Far East.
It would be easy to see this as bad
news, but I do not. Certainly there
are personal tragedies for the likes
of Lejabys UK team, which worked
tirelessly for the brand before receiving
their P45s last month, but in the main,
businesses that fail do so because they
have been mismanaged over many
years.
New owners come in with new ideas,
fresh capital and innovative managers
that can ultimately revive brands that
might otherwise be lost forever.
Unfettered by the business practices
and balance sheets that forced
businesses into the abyss in the first
place, they very often create genuine
value and employment opportunities
for a new generation of staff.
I am far from concerned about
the overall health of the British or
European intimate apparel industry,
and found plenty of like-minded souls
on my trip to Salon International de la
Lingerie in Paris this month.
Sure, times are tough, but many
businesses are thriving thanks to their
creativity, hard work and business
accumen.
KAT SLOWE
EDITOR
[email protected]FEBRUARY COVER
Photographer: Paul Martyniuk
Stylist: Darren Knight
Hair & Makeup: Barrie Griffith
Model: Jessica Devos
Location: One Marylebone
16A Baldwins Gardens, London, EC1N 7RJ, UK
Tel: +44 (0) 20 31 764228
Fax: +44 (0) 20 31 764231
EDITORIAL
EDITOR Kat Slowe,
[email protected]CONTRIBUTOR Michelle Mone
COMMERCIAL
SALES MANAGER Andrew Martyniuk,
[email protected]STUDIO
GROUP ART EDITOR Daniel Prescott,
[email protected]DESIGNED in conjunction with Quadrum
Solutions
www.quadrumltd.com
DIGITAL
CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER
Hitendra Molleti,
[email protected]ONLINE PRODUCTION Ernesto Ceralde,
Rose Yorobe
PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION
GROUP PRODUCTION
& DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR
Kyle Smith,
[email protected]DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER
Matthew Grant,
[email protected]DATABASE MANAGEMENT Manju Sajeesh,
[email protected]CIRCULATION
CIRCULATION CUSTOMER SERVICE
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Web: www.lingerieinsight.com
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BUSINE S S INTELLIGENCE FOR LINGERIE & SWIMWE AR PROFE S SIONAL S
Bra and knickers from the bridal
collection of Fred & Ginger.
Published by and copyright 2012
Promedia Ltd, incorporated and
registered in the British Virgin Islands
under company number 1559854.
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
Stand C15
Moda
Lingerie & Swimwear
VFB Intimates UK Limited Block L, Unit la Westwat Park Porterfield Road RENFREW PA4 8DJ Tel: 0141 885 4730
VIENNE
in C to F cup
featuring soft
Spacer moulding
NEWS REVIEW / FRONT
THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR
NEWS RE VIEW
NEWS IN QUOTE S
FIRST STITCH
VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY
SPE AKERS CORNER
CALENDAR
WEB HIGHLIGHTS
12
13
14
16
17
17
18
INVISTA UNVEILS LYCRA FIBRE WITH SECRET
W TECHNOLOGY DAZZZLES DESIGNERS IN PARIS
NVISTA, one of the
worlds largest integrated
producers of polymers and
fibres, revealed a cuttingedge advancement in LYCRA fibre
technology at a gala event in Paris,
last month.
The innovation, called LYCRA
fibre with W Technology, is
designed to offer the European
fabric industry a new level of
performance in an elastane fibre
for intimate apparel, offering improved whiteness retention, uniformity and brilliant colour clarity
for fabrics and garments.
For the intimate apparel industry, the company claims that this
technology will enhance styling
flexibility and will be the foundation for both whites and fashion
colours.
It is reportedly ideal for both
warp and circular knit fabrics, delivering visible improvements and
allowing robust mill processing.
INVISTA Apparel global director of intimate apparel & swimwear, Steve Stewart, told Lingerie
Insight: We have been working
on it for over two years. We will be
commercialising it over the next
couple of months. Everything that
is used for intimate apparel will be
using this fibre.
The idea for the launch was
for everyone to know that we are
doing this and why... In challenging market conditions you need
to provide more value to your
customers.
However, how it works is a
closely guarded secret, jokes
Stewart.
FOR IMAGES OF THE AW12 COLLECTIONS AND DAILY BREAKING NEWS VISIT
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
11
FRONT / NEWS REVIEW
NEWS REVIEW
Lejaby has announced that it
will be making its entire UK staff
redundant. The 29 employees
took their fi nal pay check at the
end of January, in a step that will
see the closure of the companys
current UK distribution office.
Lejaby SAS was bought out, last
month, by Alain Prost, the former CEO of Italian lingerie group
La Perla.
Prost has promised to invest
7 million euros in the company.
He joined forces with the subcontractor Lejaby, in Tunisia,
where he is expected to take the
companys manufacturing after
closing the brands last production plant in Yssingeaux.
UK country manager Kathleen
Morgan told Lingerie Insight:
Even though we had given people warnings since October, still,
when someone has been 37 years
in one store... I hope that some of
the employees will be re-hired by
the stores.
Maison Lejaby, the name under
which the French business now
operates, will be exhibiting on a
small stand at Moda, where UK
retailers will be able to place orders for the new AW12 collection.
The UK Lingerie Awards
2012 has a new nominations
process for intimate apparel
brands and retailers that want
to be considered for the industrys most prestigious awards.
A robust set of rules, advice and
criteria will be published prior to
the nominations going live, allowing entrants to plan the presentation of their key products
and achievements to the panel of
judges. The nomination process
will open on April 1 and run
throughout the month. The fi nal
deadline for entries will be April
30. There will also be a public
vote in certain categories, with
prizes of tickets to the gala UK
Lingerie Awards dinner up for
grabs to lingerie lovers who take
part in the poll.
In its inaugural year, the UK
Lingerie Awards established
itself as the most important and
enjoyable date in the industrys
calendar and with our new
comprehensive nominations
process we are certain that the
2012 event will be even better,
explains Kat Slowe, editor of
Lingerie Insight , which hosts
the Awards. We will ensure all
brands and retailers have equal
opportunity to impress the judges, and that the judges have all
the material they need to make
informed decisions, she added.
HOTmilk director Lisa Ebbing said: HOTmilk Everywoman
was created from all the fabulous feedback our retailers have
shared with us over the past six
years. We have listened and created this brand for you wirefree intimates for every woman
to fall in love with.
Ultimos owner Michelle
Mone has stated she will move
her companys headquarters
from Scotland to England if the
country votes for full independence in a referendum. The Scottish entrepreneur, who won an
OBE in 2010 in recognition of
her business success, says that
the SNPs plan for independence
would force her to head south
of the border. I will move my
business and I will move personally, she told the Sunday Times
newspaper. I dont think we can
survive on our own and I think it
would be really bad for business.
Scottish Finance Secretary
John Swinney, responded: This
is a time to talk positively about
Scotland, and we will be very
happy to meet with Ms Mone to
discuss our nations future.
Maternity lingerie brand
HOTmilk is pushing into the
mainstream market with its fi rst
line of non-maternity underwear.
The New Zealand brand is hoping
to use the expertise it has gained
in bras without underwire to appeal to a wider variety of female
shopper. To reflect its push into
the mainstream lingerie market,
the brand has called its fi rst
non-maternity collection Everywoman.
12
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.com
Victorias Secret, which
is expected to open a flagship
store in London this summer,
has added a high end range of
lingerie to its US portfolio. The
Victorias Secret Designer Collection is selling at prices ranging
from $48 for a thong to $298 for a
sheer lace corset. It will replace
independent branded offerings
that have previously been offered
to more affluent customers. Ed
Razek, president and chief marketing officer of Victorias Secret,
told womenswear trade web site
WWD: We took it in-house because we have a design team that
has such a passion for lingerie,
and they differentiate Victorias
Secret from any other brand.
Retailers have reported a marked
year-on-year fall in sales volumes
in January, although one that
was broadly in line with expectations. Retailers anticipate
that annual sales will fall once
again in February, according to
the CBIs monthly Distributive
Trades Survey. For the fi rst two
weeks of January, the survey
found 44% of retailers saw sales
volumes fall on a year ago, while
22% reported a rise, giving a balance of -22%. Th is was the worst
result since March 2009, but was
broadly in line with expectations.
Retailers also expect annual
sales volumes to continue to fall
in February, albeit it at a slower
pace than this month.
12
Ima
ge
cou
r
tesy
of L
epe
l
THE LINGERIE
& LEGWEAR
20
NEWS IN QUOTES
Show
NEWS REVIEW / FRONT
Size 16 student LUCY MOORE talks about winning a competition to
become the new face of lingerie retailer Ann Summers.
The basic design of current nursing bras is clearly
flawed and can lead to discomfort, infections and
conditions like mastitis.
Designer LORNA DREW explains why she launched her new patented
maternity bra, the only one in the world to fit over three cup sizes.
Our goal with SPANX Active was to create the
perfect black pant that would conceal any tummy
pooch and make your butt look amazing.
Spanx founder SARAH BLAKELY on the launch of the brands new
activewear range.
Video and avatar technology hasnt been utilised on
this scale in lingerie before and we are excited to be
at the forefront of it.
Lingerie Please marketing manager NICOLA PRINGLE talks about the
online retailers purchase of Knicker Picker.com, the first site in the
world that allows people to pick the size of the model they want to see in
the underwear.
This is a really amazing opportunity for us at
Bordello and, although the community is sad, we are
happy to be given this opportunity to develop the
business.
Bordello founder MICHELE SCARR discusses the closure of her
Shoreditch store.
22 M A RC H 2012
8.30am to 4.00pm
ND
I want to represent women with a curvier figure and
show them that you can be sexy no matter what your
size or shape.
Welcome to the premier show for independent Lingerie
& Legwear retailers. It takes place at Cranmore Park - one
of the UKs best exhibition venues - on 22 March, 8.30am
to 4.00pm.
We bring together over 50 leading brands to show the
very latest in Lingerie and Legwear fashion together under
one roof. Cranmore Park offers unrivalled show facilities,
excellent catering and ample FREE car parking just 5 minutes
from J4 M42. Registration is essential. Register by 9 March.
AFTER EDEN AMERICAN ESSENTIALS ANDREA BUCCI ARISTOC
BESTFORM BEDROOM ATHLETICS BENDON BOOBS & BLOOMERS BY
WISHES CALVIN KLEIN SOCKS CHANTELLE CHARNOS HOSIERY
CHARNOS LINGERIE
CHILPRUFE
COSTEX
COTTON REAL
COURTAULDS LEGWEAR CURVY KATE CYBERJAMMIES DAMELLA ELLE
HOSIERY ELLE MACPHERSON ELOMI EVEDEN FANTASIE FASHION
FORMS FAUVE FORDVILLE FREYA GIPSY GLORIETTE HOUSE OF
HOLLAND KUNERT & HUDSON JONATHAN ASTON LADY SELENA
LAMATEX LEPEL LEVANTE MAIDENFORM MANCHESTER HOSIERY
MARLIES DEKKERS MARSYLKA MELAS MISSI SOCKS MOON RIVER
NATURANA PALM PAMELA MANN PANTHERELLA PASSIONATA
PASTUNETTE PLAYTEX POUR MOI? PRETTY POLLY RAPZ REBELLE
SERITA LONDON (MASTECTOMY) SHOCK ABSORBER SILHOUETTE
TRIUMPH UNUSUAL VALBONNE VANILLA LOUNGEWEAR VOSSEN
WAITES WHITE SWAN WONDERBRA WW GROUP ZETEK BODY
FAVOURITES
Exhibitor list subject to change.
Cr anmore Par k Exhibition Centre
Cr anmore Avenue , Shir ley,
Solihull, W Midlands B90 4LF
www.lingerielegwearshow.co.uk
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
13
FRONT / NEWS REVIEW
NEWS REVIEW
Zahia Dehar, who made
headlines last year for her exploits as a high class call girl
linked to three professional
French football stars, is hoping
to use her notoriety kick start
a career in lingerie design. The
19-year-old, who turned her back
on prostitution as modelling
work for magazines including
Vanity Fair blossomed, presented
her fi rst collection at Couture
Fashion Week in Paris on
Wednesday. She joined lingerie
models on the catwalk to showcase her revealing designs, which
British tabloids have been only
too accommodating in publishing pictures of this week. Zahia
has become one of Frances biggest internet sensations. She has
more than 20,500 twitter followers at @ZahiaOfficiel and 6,000
likes on Facebook.
Moontide has launched a new
retail display competition, where
the winner will receive a weekend break in Paris. To enter, retailers must create a show-stopping display for their window,
using styles from their spring/
summer 2012 collection. They
then need to take a picture of the
display and send it to Moontide
at
[email protected],
along with the name of their
store and an explanation of why
they would love to go to Paris.
The competition is open from
February 15 to April 15, 2012. The
winner will be featured on the
14
FIRST STITCH
brands Facebook and web pages,
and in the trade press.
CELEBRATING EMERGING TALENT
Agent Provocateur has
revealed French beauty Mylene
Jampano as the face of its
Spring Summer 2012 campaign.
The actress began her career
in French television and was
cast in her fi rst movie role in
2004. Since then, she has played
alongside Daniel Auteuil, Gerard
Depardieu and recently in Clint
Eastwoods Hereafter. Agent
Provocateur creative director
Sarah Shotton said: After several
successful campaigns featuring
powerful femme fatales in highoctane bold imagery, I decided
that I wanted to take a softer
approach for Spring Summer
2012. I am a huge fan of the soft
focused era, the glowing scenes
from the gently erotic fi lms such
as Emmanuelle and The Story of
O and my collection of vintage
Playboy Magazines made me
want to re-introduce the sensuality and fl irtation of the 70s into
our campaigns.
New breastfeeding lingerie brand
The Lingerie Collective has
launched a new online boutique.
Brands on the website include
Beautiful Bottoms, Bordelle, Ell
& Cee, Kriss Soonik, MC Lounge,
Modern Courtesan, Obey My
Demand and Olivia Von Halle.
The Lingerie Collective already
operates a store on Londons
Ganton Street, but this is the fi rst
time that the brands have been
available to purchase online.
Aubade launched two stores in
they gain the discreet assistance
London, last year, with a third
of the stores staff. A bright red
planned for 2012.
counter with the brands name
The new boutiques, located in
emblazoned in bold black pro-
Westbourne Grove and South
vides a finishing touch.
Molton Street, feature furniture
The boutiques, according to
decorated with a dotted black and
Aubade, reveal the charm of sex
white lace motif. A velvet curtain
appeal a la francais, as cultivated
provides privacy for visitors, as
through the French art of loving.
Lorna Drew Nursing Lingerie has
invented and patented the only nursing
bra in the world that can be adjusted to
fit over three cup sizes.
The brand has already been taken on
by Harrods and the UKs second largest
mother and baby retailer, Maman Bebe.
Lorna Drew Nursing Lingerie managing
director Lorna Drew says: The basic
design of current nursing bras is clearly
flawed... None of the leading nursing
brands seemed interested in providing
a reasonable solution, so midwives have
no choice but to recommend wearing the wrong sized bra.
Lorna Drew Nursing Lingerie launched internationally at Salon International de la
Lingerie in Paris, last month, and appeared on the shows catwalk.
Harrods and Jojo Maman Bebe have stocked Lorna Drew lingerie from the end
of January, 2012.
>> Are you a student or recent graduate and want to be featured
in First Stitch? Email
[email protected]STORE ENVY
AUBADE, WESTBOURNE GROVE, LONDON
>> Got a Store Envy suggestion? Email: [email protected]
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.com
FRONT / NEWS REVIEW
VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY
The importance of the
soft cup bra
NIGEL ADDISON
Sales director for UK & Eire, Eveden
he importance of soft
especially those with a large cup size
cup bras is growing.
and we wanted to address this and
Traditionally soft cups
introduce an incredible soft cup thats
are targeted at only a few
fashionable, young and fresh, making
consumer groups but this is changing.
a soft cup an option for everyone who
Feeling lighter and softer on the skin,
wants to wear one.
they have always made an ideal
Since its launch in back in 2009,
choice for new mums and mums to
the Deco range has been our best
be who dont want to wear heavy non-
selling Freya collection and a hit with
breathable bras.
all our stockists and customers season
However, soft cup bra styles are
after season, style after style. Whether
a key style for consumers who are
it is the moulded plunge, strapless or
looking for comfort, freedom of
half cup, Deco works! Feedback and
movement and a bra which they
sales have assured us women love
can wear all day without worrying
the great shape, smooth cups and
about the discomfort of underwires
perfect fit whether they are a 28 or 38
digging in.
back, B to GG cup. Launching a Deco
Soft cup bras are perfect for every
the next obvious development for
can be worn through the adolescent
the Deco range to expand into, giving
years as the breasts develop, during
customers with a large cup size the
and after pregnancy, they are also
chance to try a soft cup too.
Mimi Holliday by designer
Damaris Evans is set to launch
new label Max Holliday in Harrods in conjunction with its new
pop up shop at the iconic London
department store. The brands
first range of mens boxer shorts
will launch online on the Mimi
Holliday website in time for Valentines Day. Designer Damaris
Evans said: I started making
them by hand for my boyfriend
before I started the main collection. He loved them; they were his
pride and joy of boxer shorts so I
made him another pair and more
and more over the years. Then his
friends wanted them, and some
got a pair for their birthdays.
The boxers are made with a
We believe the Deco soft cup will
or just when you want comfort
excite across the ages including young
and support without the wires. In
people who are perhaps looking for
particular, foam moulded soft cup
something more comfortable or even
bras offer a light feel yet they are still
a first bra style. Since revealing the
supportive.
Deco soft cup, the response from
The launch of a good large cup
everyone has been really exciting and
size soft bra is long overdue. Theres
encouraging, with women who never
always been a bit of stigma around
dreamt of wearing a soft cup before
soft cup bras, traditionally associated
announcing they want to try it out.
with being unflattering, really covering
This is the only bra of its kind which
and not giving the best shape. We
currently goes up to a G cup, so were
recognised many women were
certainly looking forward to seeing
struggling to find a good soft bra,
how demand grows!
16
French lingerie brand Millesia
will be launching in the UK for
AW12. The Lyon-based label will
be distributed in the country by
Straps Ltd. Millesias fi rst collection showed at the International
Lingerie Fair in Paris in January
1994, where it reportedly gained
an unexpected success, especially with Italian and Japanese
customers.
soft cup made perfect sense and was
stage in a womans life; a soft cup bra
suitable to wear after breast surgery
NEWS REVIEW
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.com
mix of classic polka dots and
striped cottons, and classic
Liberty cotton prints in different combinations. Each pair
features a relaxed fit leg and an
elasticated waist, lined in velvet
ribbon. There are two lengths,
both of which have a buttoned
fly fi nish. One is a classic short
boxer length and the other a
long boxer shape, inspired by
Andre Agassis fi rst appearance
on court in virgin white.
Luxury lingerie brand Bordelle
is launching a new bridal range
for AW12. The new collection
includes garments from AW10AW13, alongside a series of new
pieces. Key features throughout
include the use of lace for the
fi rst time and adjustable elements for a superior fit, with
sliders able to alter products
size by up to 5cm.
The range has been separated into four distinct themes:
Bordelle Classics, Bondage
Bride, Something Blue and True
Romance. Swarovski crystals
provide an extra decorative element throughout the collection
and can be seen hanging as teardrops from the centre-front of
the bras and as hollow squares,
attaching suspender clips.
NEWS REVIEW / FRONT
SPEAKERS CORNER
DIARY DATES
Curve Las Vegas and Curve
New York are the largest events
of their kind in North America.
With more than 200 brands
exhibiting, they attract lingerie
boutiques, swimwear retailers
and department stores from
all over the world to shop for
the latest in lingerie, mens
underwear, swimwear and activewear.
HUBERT LAFONT
Managing director,
Barbara Group
OLIVIER PIQUET
Managing director,
Lise Charmel Group
STEFAN BREITBACH
International sales
manager, Skiny
11-13 February, The Venetian Hotel Resort Hotel Casino, Las Vegas,
and 21 -23rd February, Jacob K.
Javits Convention Center, New
York, USA.
WHAT WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE OF THIS MONTHS SIL SHOW?
Pure London is a trade fashion
Salon International de la
It was an excellent fair for the
As a new brand at the fair,
Lingerie was a great success. The
Lise Charmel Group, the launch
we were really happy with the
general atmosphere was very
of the jewellery intimates with a
number of customers who
vibrant and the outlook was really
special runway show on Saturday
visited the Skiny stand. The
positive. In terms of Barbara, we
evening was a huge success,
number of customers from
received as many visitors as our
with more than 800 people
Europe and the Middle East
stand could hold. Not only were
attending the gala event, and we
was especially satisfying. Most
the numbers good, the
had confirmation of very strong
visitors to our stand from Europe
event for mid to high end womenswear, footwear and accessories. There are daily catwalk
shows and a series of trend
presentations. Visitors include
buyers from independents, multiples, department stores and
online outlets.
calibre of customers was high too.
interest in the Epure label by Lise
came from France, Belgium,
12-14 February, Olympia,
We discussed the next supply of
Charmel.
Germany and Spain.
London, UK.
Barbara products to
Many thanks to all the Eurovet
The feedback on the Skiny
many export clients. Thank you
team for their professional and
concept and the brands DNA
London Fashion Week will be
for all these opportunities, and
enthusiastic approach to the
was excellent, and we
our compliments to all the
exhibition. Well be back next year,
hope to boost our sales
team who organise this unique
and will see you in July at Mode
significantly within the next
showcasing a series of the top
British and international designers. Lingerie and swimwear
exhibitors include the likes of
Charini and Roksanda Ilincic.
event.
City.
month through contacts made.
17-22 September, Somerset House,
NEWS FLASH
London, UK.
AYTEN MUSTAFA, designer and owner of Ayten Gasson
Lingerie, has reaffirmed her commitment to ethical sourcing
and British manufacturing at a presentation to university
students and staff in Nottingham. A conference entitled
Global vs Ethical, hosted by The Trend Boutique, explored
how businesses can use ethical practices to improve their
competitiveness in global markets. Mustafa used her presentation to highlight why she has chosen to introduce sustainable fabrics and reclaimed laces into her collections, as well
explaining her firm commitment and continued support
for the UK manufacturing industry. I feel it is important to highlight the moral responsibility we
For more
have as designers to produce our garments in an
news visit
ethical environment which may be in many
www.lingerieinforms from the sustainability of the fabrics used
sight.com
to the treatment of the workers producing the
garment, she said.
Moda Lingerie & Swimwear is
the UKs largest national show
for the lingerie, swimwear,
nightwear and hosiery industries. The launchpad for new
ideas, the event welcomes fresh
talent each season and includes
Moda Rouge, an area dedicated
specifically to designer and
directional brands. Dedicated
catwalk shows run throughout
the three days, showcasing the
best from across the exhibition.
The exhibition runs alongside
the Moda show for independent
fasion and accessories.
19-21 February, NEC Birmingham,
UK.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
17
FRONT / NEWS REVIEW
MOST READ ONLINE
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
EDITORS CHOICE
Frank Sorbier corset causes
red carpet sensation
Alshaya takes control of La
Senza UK
GALLERY
LOOK BOOK
Triumph bids to buy La
Senza stores
Claudine Keane models
for Ultimo campaign
Maryan Melhorns 2013
swimwear designs
Scottish brand creates stylish shoot to
promote its Valentines collection.
Go online to download the look book that
every swimwear lover wants to see.
VIDEO
NEWS
Etams SS12 collection on
Paris catwalk
White House fumes at
Obama lingerie claims
French brand hosts star-studded catwalk
show at Paris Fashion Week.
Angry denial that First Lady was involved in
a $50,000 splurge at Agent Provocateur.
Special report: spring/
summer collections
La Senza to close 81 stores
Size 16 real model to front
Ann Summers campaign
Bordello is closing down
Men fail to impress with racy
lingerie Christmas gifts
Lizzy Haines wins star in a
bra model search
Infamous French call girl
debuts couture lingerie
LINGERIE TWEETS
18
Well done again @Retailtrust on raising
Have you heard about the Freya Active
million
love myself and Sir Philips
1.1 mi
milli
llion
o Gotta
G
Swimwear? Not only is it supportive &
matching ssatin outfits Mx
stylish, it also helps save the rainforest.
@Michellemone
@ chell
@Mi
@FreyaLingerie
Morningggg.
M ninggg
Mor
g Thanks for your lovely
@photoanarchy: Cover image featuring
comments
comme
mentss this morning regarding my
@Jessdevos for next issue of Lingerie
valentines collection with
Insight @LingerieInsight in the bag. Yay
@ByCaprice xxx
Exciting
@Imogen_thomas
@JessDevos
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.com
MODA / SHOW PREVIEW
MODA PREVIEW
LINGERIE INSIGHT OFFERS A SNEAK PREVIEW OF WHAT TO EXPECT FROM A SELECTION OF EXHIBITORS
AT THIS MONTHS MODA SHOW.
Date: 19-21st February, 2011
Venue: Birmingham NEC
ANITA TO MAKE A RETURN TO
BIRMINGHAM SHOW FOR AW12
Anita Maternity will be introduce its underwired nursing bra in a new powder
shade for AW12. The product is characterised by a curved neckline, framed with
shimmering, silky seam tape. The pre-formed cups are made from sturdy spacer
fabric that is covered on both sides in breathable, concealing microfiber for firm,
seam-free support. The cups are opened via nursing clips, and have an additional
ribbon to prevent the straps from slipping during breastfeeding.
Anita Comfort is introducing the New Versailles series at the Moda trade
show this month. Anita's new Versailles series features a trimmed design with
an all-over floral pattern in microfibre material. The upper cup trim takes the
form of a contrasting print panel, which combines with the matching all-over
print and continues into the lower cup, and shaping side panel, to the back. The
comfort bra has three-part cups with a fi rmly lined lower cup for added support.
The comfort underwired bra has two-part cups that are also lined and provide
extra support thanks to the Ergoline underwiring.
The series is completed by high-waist briefs and standard briefs with an allover floral design. A miniature bow in contrasting colour and gently curving, soft
edging bands lends a finishing touch.
Anita Care is launching new underwired bra Tonya Chic. The new Care bra
features a concealing, seamless foam cup which has been manufactured especially for Anita. The fine microfibre covering joins a transparent panel at the
neckline, which makes the cup look lighter, an effect that is underlined by the bow
at the neckline. The model has pockets on both sides, made of breathable tulle,
and shaping underwires, which are encompassed in a soft underwire band.
20
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
SUITE B DOES KNIT
BAMBOO
Suite B will be showcasing its new
AW12 collection at Moda, which
includes a group in knit bamboo,
titled Hannah, featuring bras,
panties and nightwear. A palette
of classic black, grey, and cream
dominate the collections while
bursts of grape, grotto blue, cherry
wine and jade green accent
the theme. New for the season,
several of the brands groups
Chance, Closer, Secret, Minx
and Vixen are now offered
in its most popular second
skin microfiber fabric. A
cherry wine shade is also
being added to Suite Bs
Sweetest Sin group invites
of banded lace intimates.
LIDEA ADDS
TO CUP-SIZED
SWIMWEAR
Lidea has extended its range of cup
size-specific swimwear for AW12. The
new collection picks up on key trends
inspired by the 2012 Olympics and
demand for fashion-inspired colour
and print combinations. Stripes, colour
blocking, checks and electric colours,
flower prints and polka dots all feature
in the companys biggest ever line up.
Cup sizes of A-H are offered across
the collection, which incorporates
high-quality fabrics to ensure that the
swimwear retains its colour and shape.
SHOW PREVIEW / MODA
CHARMLINE PROMISES
TO MAKE CUSTOMERS
LOOK ONE DRESS SIZE
SMALLER FOR SUMMER
Charmlines range of shape-enhancing swimwear
promises to make women look one size smaller on
the beach, next year. The 2013 collection offers three
um and strong, for optimum
shaping levels: light, medium
d twist effects
figure styling. Ruching and
ile carefully placed
create flattering lines, while
prints and colours seek to eventuate curves
in all the right places.
ROYCE COMFORTS DARCEY
MARYAN
PROVES WIRELESS CAN BE SEXY MEHLHORN
RN
ES
SHOWCASES
Royce Lingerie will introduce its
new Darcey style at Birmingham in
GE
2013 RANGE
February. The new product, part of the
brands Comfort range, seeks to dispel
the myth that wirefree lingerie cannot
be as supportive, shapely or sexy as its
underwired counterparts.
It is available in a deep damson
shadow striped fabric with pretty
cutaway vintage lace trim, while a soft
cotton lining and innovative underwire
free design aim to provide excellent
support, shape, fit and comfort.
Darcey is available in sizes 32-40, D-G.
STARLINE
LINGERIE'S
MODA DEBUT
Starline Lingerie will debut at Moda,
this month with an eclectic array of
garments inspired by the burlesque
movement. The brand's collctions
ranges from retro lingerie, accessories
and costumes to loungewear and
petticoats. All items are made
using premium fabrics, focusing on
delivering the highest quality design
and construction of each garment. The
new collection is described as edgy and
diverse, and acts as a "taster of things
to come" according to the company's
spokesperson.
resenting
Maryan Mehlorn will be presenting
seven styles within its 20133
rtinez
offerings: Cape Grace, Martinez
eaves,
Drops, Softline, Banyan Leaves,
ury
Royal Riviera, Soneva Luxury
and Shangri-La Love. The new
s,
range adopts drape effects,
eate
ruching and pleats that create
nda feminine silhouette. Handnd
crafted embellishments and
decorative elements seek
to catch the eye, while
extraordinary motifs and
prints seek to provide a
touch of extravagance
Innovative neckline
variations have also
been added for design
classics.
LEPEL LINGERIE AND
NIGHTWEAR TO WARM
HEARTS THIS WINTER
Lepels new AW12 lingerie and nightwear collection
showcases an array of rich colours and prints, such as berry,
mink, green, aqua and turquoise. The lingerie collection
includes seven new ranges: Molly, Belle, Katie, Erin, Emily,
Josephine and Victoria. Meanwhile, Lepel Nightwear returns
for the Autumn/Winter 2012 season with Lotty, Georgina
and Jasmine.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
21
MODA / SHOW PREVIEW
BESTFORM LINGERIE SQUEEZES INTO
SHAPEWEAR MARKET WITH AW12 LINE
Bestform Lingerie has announced that it will be
launching its first shapewear collection at Moda in
February. The new AW12 range, called Beauty Perfect,
is designed to provide a beautiful sculpting effect,
enhancing a womans natural curves and creating a
flattering silhouette beneath clothing. A nude lining is
overlaid with fancy plumetis mesh and soft lace in black
for a retro pin-up look.
Meanwhile, a side shaping bra features a lateral
panel that gently shapes the breast towards the centre,
creating a fuller, more defined appearance. The cups
are lined for additional strength and support, and fully
adjustable straps are available to suit a broad range of
body shapes.
The fully lined high-waist brief minimises the
silhouette by up to 3cms, smoothing curves for a
tighter tummy and trimmer figure. The waist band
features a silicone strip for additional confidence in
wear. Products are available in black or natural, from
a C to G cup. Prices range from 19 for a maxi brief to
29 for a bra.
GOSSARD PRESENTS
FOUR AW12 THEMES
FLORAL EXPLOSION
Romantic antique blooms are revamped in a floral frenzy,
chintzy wallpaper florals are updated in a rich plumage
palette of captivating jewel tones, bold ruby reds, dazzling
sapphire blues, daring emerald greens and chic sumptuous
bronze. Strong scalloped forms and deeply textured laces
seek to enhance the feminine luxury of this trend.
ON THE PROWL
Classic animal shades of caramel, chocolate and noir are
carefully and yet daringly combined with bold embroideries
and delicate laces, creating statement pieces fit for any Diva,
promises Gossard.
FEMME FATALE
Unleash your femme fatale; a mysterious and seductive
woman whose charms are irresistible. Pure
ure indulgence,
mel shades collide
elegant and sophisticated noir and caramel
ka dots, with crystal
with a clash of both bold and delicate polka
y.
embellishment and exquisite embroidery.
THE RETROLUTION
Inspired by iconic 50s and 60s silhouettes,
es, sculpted
shapes are strict and sexy. To achieve this,
s,
Gossard styles have been revamped usingg soft,
silky, structured fabrics, reinventing the classic
nes and
silhouettes with high waists, and necklines
ades of
backs that are as low as they can go in shades
chic blush, nude and caf au lait.
22
SPANX
LAUNCHES
ACTIVEWEAR
Spanx will introduce new figureflattering activewear range in time
for the Olympics. The debut collection
includes a series of pants and camis
in soft and comfy fabrics that are
designed to bend, breathe and wick
away moisture. Spanx founder Sarah
Blakely said: Our goal with Spanx
Active was to create the perfect black
pant that would conceal any tummy
paunch and make your butt look
collec
amazing. Each piece in the collection
is
designed to help wom
women
grea in a
look and feel great
ha
cinch without having
to work for it.
The new Powe
Power
Pants are sold
with a Built-In Bagel
Bag
Buster, made of Slim-X
Slim
compression fa
fabric
to tame the tu
tummy
an
and hips and
ponte kn
knit legs
for fi xing flaws,
compa
the company
promises.
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
PLAYFUL
PROMISES
EXHIBITS
ANATOMY OF
A HEART
The anatomy of a human heart was
the inspiration for Playful Promises
AW12 collection. Key styles and
shapes include juju straps, trims
and ribbons, while ebony mesh
is combined with noir satin and
charcoal black lace. Boning,
d a chunky cord
straps and
provide thee illusion of
ng restraints
constricting
ndage
for this bondage
d line. The
influenced
lection
Villain collection
is intensified
with a
ge
blood-rouge
tch
vintage stitch
collection,
ting a
incorporating
tch corset
vintage stitch
hing bloodwith matching
h and stitch
rouge mesh
detail bra, brief and
ss.
garter dress.
SWIM WITH
SEASPRAY
Seaspray will be showcasing four new
fashion collections at Moda. First
is an appliqu outline flower group
in black with a white flower and an
electric blue with turquoise flower. It is
sold in a ruched half skirted bandeau,
ruched control suit and tankini with
matching sarong. Second is a lace
print in either blue or coral, available
in a draped bandeau, draped control
crossover and a halter neck tankini
with matching pareo. Third is an
abstract leaf print in pinks and lilacs,
with fluorescent highlights, which
comes in a draped top suit, bandeau
suit, tankini and pareo. Finally, there is
a sophisticated animal print styled into
a draped crossover, a bandeau suit and
a padded undersides cup fit bikini with
a matching pareo and sarong.
SHOW PREVIEW / MODA
TWISTED LOVE INSPIRES
DIRTY PRETTY THINGS
Luxury lingerie brand Dirty Pretty Things
will launch a series of designs that will
appeal to strong, but romantic women.
The AW12 collection merges silk roses
and oversized thorns. It was inspired
by a twisted love and heroines theme,
and acts as a metaphor for the contrast
between soft, sensual romance and sharp
spikes of pain, a typical reflection of
love. The designers have also developed
a new waist-cinching suspender, further
reflecting the combination of femininity
and sexuality.
AFFINITAS DELIVERS DIVAS
Affi nitas Intimates will showcase a quartet of glamorous collections at
this months Moda, including Marilyn, Sydney, Jennifer and Victoria.
Marilyn is designed to create vintage-inspired silhouettes, offering a
brand new longline bra and high-waist thong with keyhole back, along
with a hipster and flowing chemise. Asolid bodice featuresfeminine
lace overlay, contrast panelling and rose embellishments. Sydney
offers a feminine twist on the tuxedo. A contour push-up bra, thong
and new silhouette high-waist garter belt are available in navy and
white or black and maroon, featuring contrast satin panel and tape
detailing,lace detail and dual buttons. Jennifer features a jewel-toned
contour push-up bra, skirted thong and bustier, available in black and
teal or black and burgundy.
MAIDENFORM LAUNCHES
INSTANT SLIM FOR AW12
Maidenform will launch its new Instant Slimmer for
AW12, as the brand celebrates its 90th anniversary.
The collection not only shapes, but also provide
slimming beauty benefits through wear. The
result, according to the brand, is a more toned
appearance with smoother skin and diminished
appearance of cellulite. It includes raw-cut hems
and a soft, mesh-covered waistband, while a
micro-encapsulated yarn technology allows for
permanent slimming benefits.
CHARNOS ENCHANTS MODA
Sophisticated enchantment is at the heart of Charnos Lingerie's Moda
presentation of Sophia, Amore and Pandora collections. The Sophia
range is available in a berry tone decorated in goldCirleaf embroidery
onfinetulle.It is offered in a full-cup bra, padded-balcony bra, deep thong
and short with folded leg edge for comfort and no VPL. Amores full-cup
bra is available in afloral print with a stretch lace top cup and black stretch
lace andsatin bows. Pandora is made from a gold stretch satin. The plunge
bra incorporates chocolate box bows with diamante jewels, while the light
control deepbrief is for invisibility under clothes.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
23
MODA / SHOW PREVIEW
IMPLICITE TO LAUNCH FOUR NEW
FRENCH-INSPIRED COLLECTIONS
Implicite will introduce four new lines at the Moda trade show, this month: Frisson, Sortilege, Vertige
and Instinct. Frisson mixes two-tone feather-inspired embroidery with contrasting fabrics, enhanced by
satin buttons. Available in rich blackcurrant and Persian blue, this collection combines coloured satin and
strategically placed transparency. Sortilege features a visual explosion of firework embroidered tulle, while
a plunging neckline pushes up the bust thanks to the extension of the embroidery up to the shoulders. The
Vertige collection features transparent embroidery, enhanced by original lacing and splashed on daring
shapes. It is available in a colour palette of dark black and amaranth. Instinct is
available in frosty white or mystic animal print, mixing graphic lace and
draped tulle for a glamorous and feminine effect. February will also
see the launch of Implicites second standalone store.
The first launched earlier, this year, in France.
EMILIO
CAVALLINI
MAKES UK
DEBUT
Italian hosiery company Emilio Cavallini
will make its UK debut at Moda, this
month. Emilio Cavallini is targeting
department stores and high level fashion
stores at the event. The show will be
followed up by a soon to be announced
event in March for both press and buyers.
The hosiery brand, which targets the 25
to 55 age range, produces 6 million pairs
of tights per annum. This year, it will
also be remodelling its Florence flagship
store with cutting edge design and a new
multimedia facility.
SIMONE
PERELE'S MODA
ADDICTIONS
TRINNY &
SUSANNAH
CAST MAGIC
SPELL OVER
MODA
Trinny & Susannah are launching The
Magic Pant at Moda, this year.
The new seamless shaping brief has
been created for younger women who
want firm control and a smoothing
effect without thick, unattractive or
constrictive fabric. It is made from a
second skin fabric that is light weight,
but still offers firm control. Functions
include flattening the tummy, supporting
the bottom and supporting the lower
back, while smooth edges around the
leg openings prevent rolling or binding
at the legs The Magic Pant is available
in shades nude and black. Trinny &
Susannah will also be showcasing an
updated version of their Magic Body
at the trade show, a seamless shaping
body with adjustable straps in the same
second skin fabric.
24
NAOMI & NICOLE
SHOWCASES FLEXIBLE
FIT FIRM CONTROL
Naomi & Nicole is showcasing its Flexible Fit Firm Control
collection at Moda in Birmingham. The styles of this collection
feature a four-way-stretch fabric that aims to deliver flexibility,
y, Comfortable
comfort, and superior results. These single-ply,
Firm control garments are designed for thosee who are in
an-finished
between sizes or have hard-to-fit figures. Clean-fi
hile the
edges act to eliminate bulk and wont bind, while
plication
brands patented Wonderful Edge silicone application
prevents the legs riding up.
m sizes
Products come in both lack and nude, from
small to extra large.
MIMI HOLLIDAY'S
SHAPELY CAMIS
Mimi Holliday has designed its first ever sleepwear.
The new range includes 100% pure silk camis teamed
with peep bottom shorties and elegant slips. TheAW12
collection comprises 16 stories, based around the
theme of revelry and featuring Wintry colours with
splashes of bold brights. Mimi Holliday will also
be showcasing new front-fastening lace shoulder
bras,Chantilly lace suspender belt designs
anddouble laced high-waisted corset knickers.
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
Simone Prle will launch its AW12
Les Addictions ranges at Moda. The
collection is composed of five new lines:
Revelation, Amour, Coquette, Couture
and Top Model. Revelation is a haute
couture collection for fuller cups up to
an H. It is adorned with embroidered
tulle, guipure and decorative bows on
a subtle colour palette. Amour focuses
on lace and sheer tulle in classic black,
ivory and purple. The overall look is
accented with straps adorned with
guip
intricate guipure.
Coquette acts
as a tribute to femininity. It
features ribbons, bows and
detail
detailed embroidery, and
seek
seeks to compliment
th silhouette with a
the
cle use of drapery.
clever
Cou
Couture
is inspired by
1950
1950s and 1960s retro
desig
designs. It features
embro
embroidered stilettos
highligh
highlighted by contrasting
colours, including
inc
pearl greys
and ruby rreds. Retro bustier
and lace detailing provides
a final touch.
to
Top Model
is a new shapewear line
using a llace and LYCRA
beauty m
micro-fibre.
SHOW PREVIEW / MODA
CHANTELLE
CHANNELS
INSPIRATION
FROM THE
WORLD OF
JEWELLERY
Chantelle is bringing together the worlds
of lingerie and jewellery in its AW12
collection featuring the rich colours of
ruby, amethyst and emerald. Running
alongside Chantelles best-selling ranges,
which are launching in new colour ways,
will be four new collections: Vendme,
Orsay, C Chic Sexy and Paris Paris.
Vendme features Chantelles most
successful styles in a new embroidered
design. The range is available in red, deep
ink blue and milk. Orsay is a modern,
everyday line that uses sophisticated
embellishments such as a jewel bow
with a monogrammed rhinestone. A key
product is the memory foam T-shirt bra;
this complex innovation results in heat
sensitive cups that mould to the shape of
the bust for a rounded and natural look.
The C Chic Sexy range is launching in a
variety of bold colours, such as emerald
and electric violet. Shapes include a new
plunging bra, a spacer bra and a modern
body. Paris Paris is a lace line, targeting
women looking for extreme seduction.
It is available in black and nude or black
and fuchsia.
FERAUD NIGHTWEAR
PAYS HOMAGE TO
SUMMER
Ferauds new AW12 nightwear range pays homage to summer.
Inspired by a large meadow of flowers full of fragrant blooms, it
features a modernly interpreted flower digital print in an array of
bright colours. The collection encompasses a sleeveless dress, night
dress with short sleeves, sleepsuit a negligee. Feminine lines and a
slight material movement benefit are emphasised by the addition of a
ribbon band at the waist with gathers worked underneath. store with
cutting edge design and a new multimedia facility.
ROSCH GAINS
INSPIRATION FROM
MAGIC
Roschs new AW12 nightwear range encompasses a series of
magical themes. Collections encompass the The magic of flowers,
The magic of Carnival, Magical and The magic of stars. For
AW12, the brand is offering a wide selection of styles, ranging
from floral and romantic to rustic and even sporty. The Magic
series has a staggered availability, with collection being delivered,
each month, from July through to October Also on show at Moda
will be the brands First Class, Basic First Class and Les Pastels
collections, delivered in August and September respectively.
BARBARA INVITES YOU
ON A TRIP TO THE FAR
EAST AND WEST
BIKINI BEADZ'
BEACH BAUBLES
Beach accessories brand Bikini Beadz will
be introducing itself to the UK market at
Moda. The company designs and produces
niche handmade waist bead sets, which are
positioned as a swimwear/beachwear add-on
for generating additional retailer revenue
from core beach/holiday wear purchases.
The new label, which claims to celebrates
the female form, will exhibit two lines at
the show, the SPS Jade Collection and the GLS Tribal
Collection. Designs are inspired by waist beads,
which have been worn for centuries in Ancient
Egyptian and African cultures.
For AW12, Barbara will be taking Moda visitors on a trip to the
Far East and West. Inspiration for the new collection comes
from a variety of sources, ranging from sophisticated Art Deco
hotel lobbies, to exotic tea rooms and Opium dens. The brand
will be exhibiting four new styles at the show: Ravage, Letitia,
Beauty Perfect and Tresor. It will also offer a series of new
colours palettes and embellishments for existing ranges Cecilia,
Mirage and Legende.
PASSIONATA'S THREE
LINE PRESENTATION
Passionata is showing three new lines: Exquise, Poupoupidou
and Casual Sexy. Exquise features embroidered tulle and guipure
in black, white, navy and amethyst. Poupoupidou is a new retroglamour line, designed to provide comfort and lightness to fuller
busted women. Available in black and red, it features wide straps
that accentuate feminine shapes. Casual Sexy is an everyday line,
made entirely of flat lace, combining seductive style with invisibility
under clothing. It is available in black and white.
Visit lingerieinsight.com to view the AW12 offerings from Aubade, Scandale, the Eveden Group, Panache, LingaDore and Curvy Kate, all of
which exhibited at Salon International de La Lingerie, last month, and will be attending the Moda trade show, this February.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
27
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW/ MOHAMMED ALSHAYA
1
2
La Senza
RECESSION IN EUROPE? TRY TELLING THAT TO
MOHAMMED ALSHAYA, WHO TWO WEEKS AGO
SNAPPED UP 60 LA SENZA UK STORES, MARKING
HIS BIGGEST INVESTMENT TO DATE IN THE UK. CAN
IT WORK? THE KUWAITI BUSINESS GIANT AND SELFSTYLED KING OF RETAIL HAS A KNACK OF DOING THE
RIGHT DEAL AT THE RIGHT TIME.
BY ANIL BHOYRUL
H
1
M.H. Alshaya's
acquisition will
save 60 La Senza
stores from closure
across the UK.
28
es on a roll. Sharp
talking. Quick witted.
Smart deal maker.
I want to begin the
interview by asking
you a question for a change, says
Mohammed Alshaya when we meet.
Does your wife ever get bored of
buying lingerie?
We could end the interview there
and then, as the executive chairman of
retail giant M.H. Alshaya explains the
reasoning behind a deal to take over
the UK business of La Senza, bought
out of administration last month. Over
1100 jobs have been saved across 60
UK stores, and with a total planned
investment of $155m, watch out for
new designs, new collections and a new
shopping experience.
But more than anything else watch
out for Mohammed Alshaya. The
British high street may be in crisis
and Europe staring at a double dip
recession. However, the self-styled
king of retail knows when to buy and
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
what to buy, and he has a history of
getting it spectacularly right: today
the Alshaya Group operates more
than 55 international retail brands in
19 countries, employing over 22,000
staff in more than 2,000 shops. If the
recession separates the swimmers from
the sinkers, Alshaya is the retail worlds
answer to Michael Phelps.
We are not a public company, so I
dont have the pressure of Wall Street
pushing me to deliver short term
gains. We are going inshalla to
MOHAMMED ALSHAYA / EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW
2-3
work hard to meet our goals. Those
with a vision of how to grow a business have to take some calculated
risks, and yes this is a calculated
risk, he says, adding: But seriously,
how many women do you know that
dont like buying lingerie? In a recession they may limit their purchases of
other items like skirts, but my opinion
is they wont stop buying lingerie.
Alshaya already has strong ties
with Limited Brands Inc, the USbased owner of the La Senza brand.
It owns the Middle East franchise for
the Victorias Secret and Bath & Body
Works brands and already operates
La Senza in Russia. The deal will
see much of the new investment go
into refurbishing the existing stores,
giving them a brand new feel over
the next two years. Alshaya is of
course no stranger to UK brands, the
company already owns franchises for
Mothercare, Debenhams, Boots, Next,
River Island, Topshop, Miss Selfridge
and The Body Shop in the Middle East.
But the deal is a major strategic
shift. Apart from Pinkberry last year,
this is only his second purchase that
delivers a physical presence in the UK
high street, and by far his biggest. The
move comes at a time when UK retail
insolvencies are forecast to reach the
highest level in four years as weak
Christmas sales leave chains struggling
to meet rent costs. Increasing numbers
of shops are expected to collapse into
administration or announce store
closures as the consumer slowdown
takes a stranglehold.
The Centre for Retail Research said
31 major retail companies fell into
receivership last year with 24,025 jobs
affected. Tesco recently saw its shares
fall 15% on the back of disappointing
Christmas trading.
However, Alshaya is confident
he can make the deal work. I am
mindful of the challenges the UK is
facing but personally I think these
are medium term challenges, maybe
four years at the maximum. Just
because we are not a public company
doesnt mean we are accepting lower
returns. The key difference, and it is a
very key difference, is that we always
have to make the right investments.
That means we have to invest for the
medium to long term, and we have
to accept a growth rate that is good
for us, he says, adding: Look at real
estate. Some places in the world will
give a 4% return on asset value; some
place will give you 12% - three times
more. Now is the 4% model stupid?
No. Is the 12% model crazy? No. It all
depends on the business, the product
and the market. We are not doing
this to just try and turn around the
company and sell it. We are not a
private equity firm that wants to take
over a business for four years, create
value and sell it. Thats not us, thats
not what we do. We are in this for the
long haul.
Alshaya says he will be busy working
closely with La Senza in the coming
months, but wont rule out more UK
deals. We are looking at some ideas for
the medium and long term.
His track record suggests he will find
some. Throughout the Middle East and
North Africa, Russia, Turkey, Central
and Eastern Europe, he has grown
the world's leading brands in fashion
and footwear, food service, health
and beauty, pharmacy, optics, home
furnishings and office supplies.
Any hint of slowing down? Forget
it. Our strategy for the long term is
to diversify into new markets, new
economies and new products. Thats
exactly what we are doing.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
2-3
M.H. Alshaya will
invest $155m in La
Senza, including
new collections and
a new shopping
experience.
29
SKINY BODYWEAR / INTERVIEW
UK GETS
SKINY
THE MOMENT HAS FINALLY ARRIVED. SKINY BODYWEAR
MANAGING DIRECTOR CHRISTIAN STOLBA TALKS
EXCLUSIVELY TO KAT SLOWE ABOUT LAUNCHING THE
BRAND IN THE UK AND ITS EXCITING NEW AW12 CAMPAIGN
FEATURING LIZZY JAGGER.
30
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
INTERVIEW / SKINY BODYWEAR
Lizzy Jagger in Skiny, as the
ambassador for the brand,
will be the biggest lingerie story for the
UK for Autumn Winter 2012, exclaims
Skiny Bodywear managing director
Christian Stolba.
Skiny, which was founded in 1986, is
owned by Huber Holding, the Austrian
umbrella company for the Hanro and
Huber labels. It is also a sister company
to Courtaulds UK, which will bring the
Skiny brand to market in the UK.
In addition to its flagship store in
Vienna, Skiny garments are now to be
found in more than 320 department
stores, 80-Huber owned shops and 60
Skiny partner stores in the EEC. Th is
is not to mention the approximate 550
concept stores in Europe and beyond.
Advertising campaigns featuring
top international models and actors
such as Laetitia Casta, Naomi
Campbell, Helena Christensen and Til
Schweiger have contributed greatly to
raising awareness of the brand since its
foundation.
Yet, if not for Stolba, who joined
Skiny as managing director just four
months ago, the new AW12 campaign
potentially its best to date may
never have reached the UK market.
I said great, so we are going to the
UK then? says Stolba. They said, not
really. I said, come on guys, I mean we
have Lizzy Jagger and we are not going
to the UK? And, thats when I basically
pushed the whole team to include the
UK in the expansion circuit. You will
never get a better ambassador for the
UK than Lizzy Jagger.
The new Skiny Autumn/Winter 2012
images, shot by Fritz Hauswirth, are
part of the third stage of the brands
Who Cares campaign and depict Lizzy
wearing all her favoured new styles,
which she actually picked herself from
the Skiny range.
Staged in a train compartment, the
shoot tells the story of a young woman
who one day simply decides to set out
on an adventure. On her travels she
meets other people and finds herself.
Skiny is personal, genuine,
authentic and spontaneous just
like Lizzy, Stolba says. She started
her career in modelling at the age of
14, and now fl ies all over the world to
appear in shoots.
Lizzy is a woman who lives life as
she likes, following the example set to
her by her parents, and who, now aged
27, is sufficiently self-confident to have
posed for Playboy. .. Who cares? Lizzy
and Skiny a perfect match.
Can you imagine the publicity and
the exposure, especially in the UK, of
having Lizzy Scarlet Jagger as the face
and the body of the 2012 Autumn/
Winter campaign?
The daughter of rock and roll legend
Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall Lizzy
Jagger is certainly likely to make an
impression.
And, with big names such as
Victorias Secret entering into to the
UK market, this year, and a number of
major retailers expanding their private
label ranges, exposure is key to any
brands success.
It is certainly an increasingly
competitive market, Stolba says. And
we believe this will actually assist in
ensuring Skiny stands out.
The UK market is one of the most
mature and sophisticated lingerie
markets in the world. However, private
label has increased its market share
in the past number of years versus
traditional brands. This has also
happened in other markets, but at a
lesser level.
Last months Paris Salon de la
Lingerie was the platform for the
brands launch in the UK and France,
and at it the brand met with a series of
potential new accounts.
The stand, which was designed to
look like a train station, made a huge
impression on visitors, while also
effectively reflecting the new theme. At
the show, Skiny also unveiled its new
size range, which now goes up to an E
cup, something that Stolba hopes will
be attractive to UK stockists.
By getting Courtaulds in the boat,
he adds, they obviously have a lot of
fitting competence for the UK market,
so they will be able to give us market
specific advice on how to make Skiny
fit even better for the UK customer.
Skiny will now be focusing on
following up on leads gained from the
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
1-10
Lizzy Jagger
models Siny's
AW12 collection.
the campaign,
entitled Who Cares
was shot by Fritz
Hauswirth. Lizzy
picked out the
pieces from the
collection that she
wanted to wear for
the shoot..
31
SKINY BODYWEAR / INTERVIEW
10
show with appointments to view the
collections and the launch campaign
at the Courtaulds Showroom in
Portman Close, London.
It will be focusing on national
accounts, department stores, high
street and internet retailers to
ensure that the brand has the most
appropriate market penetration.
In 2012, Skiny will also be working
with its key retail partners to
maximise the impact of the Lizzy
Jagger campaign through advertising
and PR, window and in-store displays,
in order to drive traffic and sales.
The brand has a new shop in shop
(SIS), which its plans to showcase as
a lifestyle orchestration in a number
of key accounts. It is not just boring
racks of shelves, Stolba elaborates, It
is a mood we are setting, a scenery.
32
Can you imagine the publicity and the
exposure, especially in the UK, of having
Lizzy Scarlet Jagger as the face and
the body of the 2012 Autumn/Winter
campaign? Christian Stobla, Skiny.
Th is is one of multiple
merchandising options, which include
a fully integrated POS (point of sale),
featuring Lizzy Jagger.
All of this should combine to make
Skiny a very attractive prospect to
retailers, according to Stolba, who
is more than capable of identifying
the brands additional unique
selling points. Apart from the high
profi le Lizzy Jagger campaign? he
questions. Apart from the Skiny core
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
competence of perfect fit? Apart from
the Vertical production of its carefully
selected materials? Apart from its core
competence in cotton? Apart from its
extensive essential range of never out
of stock styles and shapes? Apart from
its mix and match concept between
the day and sleepwear, aqua and
loungewear? Apart from its seasonal
colour themes? Apart from its Part of
Life communication?
It seems a perfect fit.
Exquisite
Bridal Lingerie
[email protected]
Telephone 0115 983 6000
www.charnos.co.uk
[email protected]
Telephone: 0115 983 6000
www.lepel.co.uk
BRIDAL LINGERIE / MARKET REPORT
Here comes
Bride
the
THE ROYAL WEDDING MAY BE OVER BUT
THE HONEYMOON AFFAIR WITH ALL
THINGS BRIDAL IS STILL GOING STRONG.
LINGERIE INSIGHT TAKES A LOOK AT WHAT
WILL BE SHAPING THE BRIDAL MARKET
AHEAD OF THE 2012 WEDDING SEASON.
1
Huit's Tea for Two
Ivoire bridal set.
34
ost people dont
think of marriage
as a grim affair. The
Office of National
Statistics, however,
reveals a different perspective; that of
cold, hard fact.
A few people might remember that
the number of marriages in England
and Wales reached a 100-year low of
231,490 during 2009. In a severe, yet
complimentary, contrast, the rate of
divorce has continued to steadily climb.
These statistics would suggest that
many of us are becoming increasingly
unwilling to commit to commitment.
And, for those who rely on the wedding
industry to turn a healthy profit, this
could present a major problem.
2011 was obviously a bumper year for
the wedding sector, due to the marriage
of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.
But, the question that is now on
everyones mind is "can the honeymoon
last?"
There are at least a couple of brands
gambling that it can.
One of these is luxury lingerie brand
Bordelle, which is launching its first ever
bridal collection for the AW12 season.
The range has been separated into
four separate themes: Bordelle Classics,
Bondage Bride, Something Blue and
True Romance. It includes garments
from AW10-AW13, alongside a
series of new pieces. The new
collection will see the brand use
lace for the first time, alongside
adjustable elements and sliders,
which are able to alter the size of
the products by up to 5cm.
Swarovski crystals are also
visible throughout the collection
and can be found hanging as
teardrops from the centrefront of the bras and as hollow
squares, attaching suspender
clips.
Founder and designer
Alexandra Popa says: We
had been planning bridal
lingerie for a while, but
then it really took off after
September, which is when
I got back from my own
wedding.
We are trying to cater
to the naughty bride.
We also have a more
feminine aspect to the
collection, but still with
the Bordelle elements.
We needed to
diversify and it is really
tough now for the
wholesale market.
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
MARKET REPORT / BRIDAL LINGERIE
Online we are doing very well, as we sell
directly to the customer.
The luxury brand is currently opening
up a showroom at the back of its studio,
where it will offer bespoke fittings and
appointments.
That coincides really well with
bridal, Popa adds. Because people
can come in and get measured, and get
fitted.
Bordelle will not be the only new
brand to launch its debut bridal
collection this AW12. Damaris is also
keen to make a foray into the sector.
At Moda, which takes place this
month, the luxury brand will introduce
its new Casa Blanca range, including
garters, something blue feather
knickers, hand-finished gowns, silkslips
and a couture corset to help create the
perfect silhouette.
The optimistic viewpoint of Bordelle
and Damaris is not mirrored by
everyone. There are a number of brands
with established bridal ranges that are
very wary about the declining marriage
figures and the bleak economic climate.
Chantelle brand manager Alexandra
Gueveneux says: Women wont be
spending as much on their wedding
day as they would normally do. And
unfortunately, as lingerie cannot be
seen, a lot of them will save money on
their trousseau, poor groom!
Yet, paradoxically, Gueveneux also
feels that the lingerie trends are reacting
against the current atmosphere of
austerity. Ethnic chic remains a strong
theme for Chantelle and is reflected
through the desire for nature, freedom,
escape and exoticism, expressed
through the spirit of travel.
Definitely no austerity within our
collection, says Gueveneux. It all still is
about living your life to the full.
Alan Gordon-Freeman is the
managing director of Alterego Lingerie,
a company that distributes a series of
lingerie brands in the UK. Gracya, Roza
and Bassaya are just a few of the many
industry accounts that it handles.
Ideally placed to achieve a broad
market overview, Gordon-Freeman is
another who thinks that money fears
are likely to impact on demand.
He says: I think all sectors have been
hit as a result of the economic climate.
Consumers are becoming more prudent
and are certainly looking to save
wherever possible.
Despite Gordon-Freemans
concerns, since extending its range of
bridal lingerie Alterego has reportedly
seen a significant increase in
demand.And, Gordon-Freeman feels
there is still room for growth.
While there are a number
manufacturers producing bridal
lingerie, he says, I still think this
market is underserved and is seen as
potentially too niche.
Charnos and Lepel design and
marketing manager Miranda Frost is
very honest about what she sees as the
sectors prospects.
She says: The rate of marriage has
been dropping for decades, as people
are comfortable co-habiting, and
those who are marrying are doing
so with an eye more keenly on the
budget.
The economic climate has had
a huge impact. People are finding it
more difficult to save and, as such,
using disposable income for general
living costs. Weddings have become
a luxury.
Despite her bleak assessment,
however, Frost agrees with GordonFreeman that there is still room in the
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
2
Gracya bridal
lingerie from
Alterego.
3
Chantelle Tuileries
combines stunning
design with
wearability.
35
BRIDAL LINGERIE / MARKET REPORT
bridal sector and she sees
the greatest potential with
bridal shapewear.
The shapewear category
has grown year-on-year
for the last five years, the
Charnos & Lepel design
manager says. Bridal lingerie
will evolve through invisibility
and sculpting, done in unique
ways. I would also predict an
increase in bonding, fusing
and moulding technologies
in bridal, just as weve seen in
other categories, as a move on
from the current Vintage style
trends.
For 2012, Charnos will be
showcasing bridal products Eve
and Belle. Eve is a sophisticated
and classic collection in dark
ivory with a vintage twist, while
Belle is richly embellished with
sequin detailing and is likely to
4
appeal tto the younger bride.
Fashion brand Lepel
Fashi
will bee presenting
uet, featuring
Bouquet,
king
a striking
design
bow-design
oidery with
embroidery
mesh and stretchsatin, as a more
dable point
affordable
sition.
proposition.
st is not
Frost
alone in identifying
bridal shapewear
ey trend
as a key
12. There
for 2012.
are a number of
other established
ds in the
brands
sectorr that also
ptimistic
feel optimistic
about the areas
ects.
prospects.
dy Wrap,
Body
4
buted in the
distributed
Charnos's Belle
UK byy Patricia Eve,
5
tly launched
Bridal Lingerie
recently
Collection .
a new line of bridal shapewear,
d Body Wrap Bride.
5
called
Wonderbra's
The collection is targeted
ly at brides, featuring a
Ultimate Strapless
directly
ed lace effect, a choice of
Lace Ivory set.
printed
36
white and ivory colourways, and seam
fee technology.
Patricia Eve owner Mike Eve says:
We are seeing an increase in demand
for shaping and smoothing bridal
lingerie. I think that bridal lingerie
will evolve in the same direction as it
is going at the moment - particularly
bridal shapewear, as it is still a new
innovation.
Other industry figures who think
that sculpting lingerie is set to be a key
bridal trend for 2012 include Gossard
managing director Tony Jarvis. He
says: The importance of the brides
lingerie focuses on figure sculpting
and enhancing the waist and the hips,
creating a smooth and ideal feminine
shape as a foundation for their gown.
This will also follow the control
wear trends that continue to evolve
throughout all lingerie trends."
Gossard design manager Stacey
Lindsey adds: If dresses ccontinue
to be structured aaround
the bust with su
supported
cup shapes alre
already
incorporated, then the
need for the b
bra beneath
the dress, especially
esp
in
smaller sizes
sizes, becomes
less and less necessary.
Gossards 2012 bridal
offering includ
includes strong
corsetry styling and high-waisted
hig
briefs. Made from stretch silks, the
products provide no VPL, whilst
w
also
possessing a sculpting fun
function.
Its honeymoon pieces feature
delicate embroideries and
a laces.
Chiffons and soft pleats
plea are
gathered to flatter th
the waist and
accentuate the bust.
Yet, there are many brands
secto are who
within the bridal sector
remain determined to try
tr and
tackle the gloomy economy
econom by
simply continuing do what
wh they do
best, producing beautiful
beau
and
functional lingerie
lingerie.
Myla head of retail
r
Karen
Hall says: I do observe
o
that
people are not investing
inv
in as
much as they would h
have done
previously, but this is dri
driving further
innovation and design.
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
I believe that the climate is making
the client think more about the best
she can get for her spend, which means
delivering her value in every dimension,
aesthetic, fit and functionality.
Myla designer Emma Booham adds:
I think that there is and increasing
demand for hertiage pieces, garments
so beautiful that they will be kept and
treasured forever in terms of their
intricacy and beauty.
Eveden UK sales director Nigel
Addison agrees that beauty will help
drive demand.
This year, Huit is showcasing its
debut bridal collection, Tea for Two. The
new range features a straight neckline,
full cup bra, a "Magic Air" bra and a
strapless bra.
Addison says: Tea for Two by Huit
is simple yet beautiful. It is Huits debut
bridal collection and it has been created
to wow.
Consumers are still looking for
innovative design and use of fabrics.
They still want a quality product and
dont want to forgo on style. Theyll still
invest in a good product if it looks the
part, so well keep designing to meet
this demand.
Aubade UK managing director Laura
McLellan agrees with Addison, saying
that women still want to feel special and
seductive on their wedding day, and will
be willing to pay the price. She says: A
woman on her wedding day will always
dress from the inside out. Buying her
wedding lingerie is as important for
most women as the dress.
Aubades 2012 wedding collection
gains inspiration from the classic B&W
movies, with their glamorous actresses,
and the Cannes film festival. The brands
2012 theme is particularly apt for this
wedding season, which is all about
female beauty and empowerment.
After all, it is a leap year. And, this
year, women will finally be able to
take the initiative and propose to their
men. It may not affect the bottom line
but, in terms of women taking control
and going for what they want, it is a
momentous occasion.
When asked what 2012 has in store,
McLellan says: Lingerie for the Leading
Lady... Go for it girls.
Also available from selected stockists throughout the UK and Ireland
For your nearest stockist, please contact Patricia Eve Ltd on 01423 885374
INSPIRATION / BRIDAL LINGERIE
Bridal
fantasies
SHES BEEN DREAMING OF THIS DAY SINCE SHE WAS A
LITTLE GIRL. THE DRESS, THE FLOWERS, THE RECEPTION,
AND THE LITTLE PRIVATE LUXURIES THAT ONLY HERSELF
AND HER HUSBAND WILL SEE. NO CUSTOMER IS MORE
IMPORTANT THAN A BRIDE-TO-BE. AND A RELATIONSHIP
FORGED AT THIS SPECIAL TIME COULD LAST FOREVER
FOR A LINGERIE BRAND AND ITS RETAILER.
SHOOT CREDITS
Photographer: Paul Martyniuk
Stylist: Darren Knight
Hair & Makeup: Barrie Griffith
Model: Jessica Devos
Location: One Marylebone
38
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.com
BRIDAL LINGERIE / INSPIRATION
Bra and knickers
from Fred and
Ginger.
Satin Gloves from
Cornelia James.
Head dress by Basia
Zarzycka.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
39
INSPIRATION / BRIDAL LINGERIE
Bra and knickers by
Fauve.
Toile skirt Vivienne
Westwood.
Lace mask Basia
Zarzycka.
Satin gloves
Cornelia James.
40
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.com
BRIDAL LINGERIE / INSPIRATION
Ivory lace print
high waisted
knickers by Patricia
Eve.
Lace heart shaped
vale by Temperly
London.
Satin Gloves by
Cornelia James.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
41
INSPIRATION / BRIDAL LINGERIE
Body and knickers
by Gossard.
Head piece by
Basia Zarzycka
42
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.com
BRIDAL LINGERIE / INSPIRATION
Basque and
knickers by
Panache.
Selection of jeweled
hair accessories
from Basia
Zarzycka.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
43
EMILIO CAVALLINI / Q&A
Stars&
Stripes
DESIGNER EMILIO CAVALLINI TALKS TO LINGERIE
INSIGHT ABOUT THE UK LAUNCH OF HIS HOSIERY
BRAND AT THIS MONTHS MODA EXHIBITION.
Why have you chosen to exhibit at
Moda, this year?
We decided to participate in Moda because were looking to expand in the UK market and a number of our
clients suggested the show to us.
How are you looking to expand your
presence in the UK in 2012?
We are investing in PR and we are hosting an important event in March for press and buyers.
What would you describe as your
target demographic?
Our target is 25-55, so quite expansive; we target
young women who follow fashion trends but also any
woman who wants to be noticed.
Which retailers are you looking to
target with your new collection?
Department stores and high level fashion stores.
In what ways do you consider the
UK market as different from other
countries in which you are currently present?
The UK market always anticipates any fashion trend
and this is particularly true for hosiery trends. The
whole world looks at what women are wearing in the
UK, so it is very important for a company like ours,
which is always on the cutting edge of fashion, to have a
strong presence in the UK market
How do you feel the industry has
evolved since you started the company
in 1967?
Technology has allowed us to produce higher quality
products at competitive prices. At the same time, the
internet has allowed for ultra rapid world wide communication, which ultimately leads to business expansion
in new markets.
44
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
Q&A / EMILIO CAVALLINI
What led
you to enter the
hosiery sector?
My passion for tights was born when
I was a young boy who loved to go
around the world. I worked as an
accountant in a small company in
my country, where they produced
hold-ups only (at that time tights
didnt exist in Italy). During a trip to
London, I saw the tights and when I
came back I proposed to my boss to
produce them. After, I decided to buy
the company and to start my own
business. I loved the idea of turning
tights into a form of art, which is my
second passion.
I knew Mary Quant at the time,
and she asked me to produce striped
tights for her. For me, it was the start
of my creations. I bought 50,000 solid
tights and I printed all of them with
different prints. I sold them in a few
months and I had the possibility to
buy my own machines and start the
production. My success arrived with
black-and-white pattern (stripes,
stars, dots). Now, my company
produces over 6 million pairs of
tights.
Would you ever
consider diversifying
into other areas of fashion
and, if so, which ones?
We are already diversifying with
seamless ready-to wear.
products can reach everybody.
We opened an online shop some years
ago so as to stay close to our customers and understand their needs as
much as possible.
What do you feel has
been your greatest
success in business?
The biggest success is to make a small
Tuscan company to be known as one
of the best company worldwide for its
constant innovation and research to
achieve a very high quality.
What new projects do you
have in mind for 2012 and
have you any plans for further
expansion?
For the time being, we are
working on two events: one
during New York Fashion
Week in February and one in London in March. In 2012 there will be a
big remodelling of our Florence flagship store, which will become multimedia and cutting edge.
Where would you like to
see the company in five
years from now?
In the best department stores worldwide.
What has been the
greatest challenge
since you started up the
company?
How do you feel that is
different to any other
brands currently on the
market?
The internet. The internet is a
big revolution for the business
because you can easily communicate with the whole of
the world. The images of your
We believe that tights are an accessory, like a bag or a pair of shoes. They
can completely change the look of the
woman, by making her unique and different. We always follow and anticipate
fashion trends, without copying. The fact
that other competitors look into our
collections means
that we have succeeded in our intent.
Why did you choose
Bettie Page as the
inspiration for your new
Autumn/Winger 12 collection?
I think that women are searching
for something to be different, playing with sensuality, and who is
more representative of the femme
fatale?
What do you consider will
be the next big trend in hosiery?
Sheer patterns.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
45
Lingerie Insight is the number one magazine and web site for the UK
intimate apparel industry. Read by over 11,000
people every
month, Lingerie Insight is the most cost-effective partner to help
you sell to the lucrative British retail market.
What
W h at do
d o they
t h ey know
k now that
t h at you
yo u dont?
don t?
Contact us now to hear how Lingerie Insight
can drive up sales and profits for your brands.
See us online at www.lingerieinsight.com, or
e-mail
[email protected]for marketing opportunities.
www.lingerieinsight.com.
AW 2012 TRENDS / BERRY COLOURS
SUPERFRUITS
BERRIES WILL BE GOOD FOR MORE THAN JUST YOUR WAISTLINE THIS AUTUMN, THEY ARE
ALSO GOING TO BE FIRMING UP YOUR BOTTOM LINE.
SIMONE PERELE
ELISE ANDEREGG
SIMONE PERELE
PARFAIT BY AFFINITAS
BARBARA
NATURANA
MARLIE S DEKKERS
LEPEL
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
47
GETTING INTIMATE / OLYMPICS TEAM GB
Olympic
CALENDAR GIRLS
NICHOLE DE CARLE LONDON WON FANS AROUND THE WORLD
WITH ITS 2012 OLYMPICS CALENDAR TO RAISE MONEY FOR
CHARITY WELL BEING OF WOMEN. LINGERIE INSIGHT TALKS TO
FOUR OF ITS SPORTING STARS JENNA HAWKEY, LANI BELCHER
AND JESS WALKER OF THE GB KAYAK 500M SPRINT TEAM AND
ROSIE MORRIS OF THE GB WATER POLO TEAM ABOUT THE
PROJECT AND THEIR LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR OF CHOICE.
LI: Why did you choose to model in the NdC calendar?
LB: It is an incredibly worthy cause. The publicity it recieves will help to increase awareness of the charity and hopefully gain more support, in the way of
funding,for the organisation.
JH: Before I got into sport I didn't have a great relationship with my body. Th rough my sport
I am now in control of my body, my
weight and my diet - but in a really
healthy way. I am proud of my
athletic figure, and modelling
in the calendar is a great way of
celebrating my new confidence.
What does Wellbeing of
Women mean to you?
LB: It is constantly trying to raise
funds to maintain research into a
wide spectrum of women's health
issues. Any one of us can be affected at
some stage in our lifeand to know that
the support from this organisation is
there is incredibly reassuring. Itgives access to informationfrom medical experts
and research projectsand encourages you
to seek adviceabout health issues.
What is most important when choosing intimate apparel?
JH: There are two simple rules. First, it has to
48
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
fit properly. There's no point in looking sexy if the
seams are digging in and you have to keep fidgeting with it. And second, style and sophistication
come before raunchy and saucy. I love lingerie
that makes me feel feminine and sexy, but racier
pieces such as thongs and hold-ups make me feel
I'm trying too hard to be someone I'm not.
OLYMPICS TEAM GB / GETTING INTIMATE
Where do you most like to shop
for your lingerie or swimwear?
LB: Swetty Betty is my sole provider
JW: As an athlete I wear sports
bras all the time so they have to be
comfortable. I like underwear that is
different that is stylish and versatile.
LB: I believe intimate apparel
should be pleasing to look at, as well
as supporting and comfortable.
What is your favourite piece of
intimate apparel?
RM: My favourite is the outfit I got
to wear at the Nichole de Carle shoot it was amazing!
JH: The Last Testament Brief and
Braces is really cool because you can
wear it under a sheer top or blouse and
make it a fashion statement in itself.
What swimwear features are
key for sports performance?
RM: I have to wear a tight, highnecked swimming cozzie to compete
in, which is designed to help performance, but for training sessions and in
the gym, I wear the most comfortable
gear possible, so I can focus fully on
my performance.
LB: Comfort, correct support and
durability. It's essential the the training gear allows for freedom and movement and does not cause chafi ng.
JH: Support and comfort are essential so that you can just focus on the
race and not worry about how your
underwear or swimwear feels. But it
helps me to feel super-confident if it
looks good too, so bright colours that
don't fade, good quality fabric and an
attractive cut are important.
of training gear and they fulfi ll the key
features for determining performance
of comfort, correct support and durability. They also come in a great choice
of colours and designs. I usually buy
swimwear from Tigerlilly and lingerie
from Marks & Spencers as there is a
wide range to choose from.
RM: For my sportswear I shop pretty much everywhere, and wear a lot of
our team kit provided by Speedo. For
my lingerie I normally shop at M&S,
but will splash out sometimes on a
nice set from Selfridges.
JH: Nichole de Carle is great for
luxury lingerie - for my wedding night
for example. As I spend most of my
time in a crop top and gym shorts it
feels amazing to wear fancy underwear for a change. I buy most of my
lingerie from M&S because they make
some really nice sets for the price - and
you don't want your best lingerie festering at the bottom of a damp sports
bag. Sweaty Betty make the most
comfortable sports bra I've found by a
long way - but the colours run as badly
as James Corden in a PVC catsuit,
and doing a hand-wash is not top of
my priorities after a hard day's training, so I tend to stick with Nike. My
favourite swimwear is by TYR because
they have a lot of bright and colourful
designs, but they last for ages, too.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
1
Frankie Snell, Team
GB Waterpolo.
2
Jess Walker, Team
GB 500m kayaker.
3
Lani Belcher, Team
GB canoe sprinter.
4
Rosie Morris, Team
GB Waterpolo.
49
BRAND WATCH / VALISERE
Valisere
Vision
1
Valiseres AW12
collection will be
available to UK
retailers.
50
VALISERE STAGED A BIG COMEBACK AT LAST MONTHS SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA
LINGERIE SHOW, WHERE IT UNVEILED ITS NEW BRAND VISION. KAT SLOWE TALKS TO
VALISERE HEAD OF BRAND MANAGEMENT MONIKA ZIMMER ABOUT HOW THE BRAND HAS
REVITALISED ITS IMAGE AND DISCOVERS THE COMPANYS PLANS FOR THE UK MARKET.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
VALISERE / BRAND WATCH
Visit us at: Moda, Hall 17 / Stand C12
At the moment, our main target is to say hello, Valisere
head of brand management Monika Zimmer says.
Valisere is back... We are loud and proud. You have to
consider us. You have to look at us. The Salon International de la
Lingerie trade show, last month, saw the Valisere brand stage a
massive comeback to the market, with a new brand positioning.
Always a premium brand, Valisere has now graduated to the realm
of true luxury with its 2012 offering.
The premium luxury market is already niche, Zimmer says.
But, within this premium market, the seductive premium market is
also a niche, and this market segment is growing. Women who are
playing with seduction, the women we target, they dont want to look
cheap. They want to be sophisticated and refined.
The concept will be entering into the stores of the brands existing across Europe in time for SS12, but wont reach French or UK
retailers until the AW12 season. Valisere, according to Zimmer, has
not been present in the French market for five to six years and it has
only ever been sold via e-commerce in the UK.
This year, the brand will focus on re-launching in both countries.
It is reportedly already in talks with an iconic UK department store
to this effect. Everyone is looking at what [this retailer] is doing,
Zimmer says. So, for us to be presented there, I think other countries and other customers will be inspired and then also consider us
Coursage Magique features 50
miniature LED sequins woven into
the ultra-fine fabric - a world first.
H exibility
C
U
TO
le nt
l
F O RshT with exce
M
O
i
C
h n
Co
7400 + 4400
too. We are concentrating on England and France for 2012 because
in the rest of the countries we are already present and we have the repositioning, and the target, to raise the brand to a higher and more
premium level. In the UK, we have just started small.
Valiseres AW12 collection showcases the brands new seductive
design ethos. Available up to an F cup, each of the pieces within the
range can be worn in at least two different ways for either a provocative or more understated look
The centrepiece of the brands re-launch in Paris was the Corsage
Magique, a new product that features 50 miniature LED sequins. It
is the first project in the world that integrates the LED sequins - almost invisibly into an ultra fine embroidery and it is adaptable
for industrial production. We are going to produce the showpieces
for window shop promotions, for big shows and for special clients,
Zimmer reveals. At the moment, we are not able to sell it. As you
can imagine, with this kind of electric technology, there is still a lot
of research to do to protect the end consumer. What happens if you
drop water over it?
The innovative textile lighting technology, named e-broidery was
created by Forster Rohner AG of Switzerland, a market leader for
fashionable embroideries in Haute Couture, pret-a-porter and lingerie. More than two years were needed to develop the embroidery.
The LED sequins can be programmed individually to accentuate the
embroidery with their movement, highlighting any detailing.
Zimmer says: The motivation was one of the core values behind our new brand strategy: magic. We have passion, fi nesse,
passion, exclusivity, but also magic. And, we wanted to bring this
magic alive.
tely
mple
smoo
NATURANA Ltd. Partnership
Licheld, Staffs. WS13 6RT
Phone 01543 414441 | Fax 01543 441609
[email protected] | www.naturana.com
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
51
SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE / REVIEW
FROM PARIS WITH LOVE
THE INDUSTRY GATHERED IN PARIS LAST MONTH FOR TWO OF THE INTIMATE APPAREL COMMUNITYS LARGEST
TRADE SHOWS: SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE AND INTERFILIERE. HALL 1 OF THE PORTE DE VERSAILLES
BUZZED WITH VISITORS, AS THEY EXPLORED THE LATEST OFFERINGS FROM THE LINGERIE, LOUNGEWEAR,
HOMEWEAR, FABRICS AND ACCESSORIES SECTORS. FOR THOSE WHO MAY HAVE MISSED OUT ON SOME OF THE
ACTION, WE BRING YOU A SUMMARY OF THE THREE DAY EVENT.
VISITORS
Together, the Salon International de la
Lingerie and Interfilire Paris attracted
30,099 visitors in 2012, compared to
29,134 in 2011.
18,604 visitors came to the 2012 Salon
International de la Lingerie, compared to
18,381 the previous year.
- 41% from France
- 59% international
- + 5.8% increase in the core target
audience (retailers, departments stores,
distance sellers/e-commerce, buying groups
and importers)
52
10
TOP
VISITOR
COUNTRIES
1. Italy
2. Germany
3. United Kingdom
(up two places)
4. Belgium
5. Spain
6. United States (up 3 places)
7. Switzerland
8. Japan
9. Russia
10. Netherland
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
RETAIL VISITORS
Germany: Alsterhaus, Kaufhof, Rudolf Wohrl
Spain: El Corte Ingls
United States: Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom
France: Franck et Fils, Galeries Lafayette, Le
Bon March, Printemps
Italy: Gruppo Coin, La Rinascente
Japan: Hankyu Department Stores co, Isetan
Mitsukoshi
Netherlands: De Bijenkorf, Vroom &
Dreesmann
United Kingdom: Fenwick, Harrods,
Selfridges
Russia: Mercury Tsum
Switzerland: Manor Ag, and more.
REVIEW / SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE
POSTCARDS FROM PARIS
Harlette Luxury Lingerie launched
a new affordable luxury range, called
Harlette Pearl, at Salon International
de la Lingerie, last month. The
collection features a series of pieces,
with recommended retail prices
of under 50 for a bra or a knicker.
Products include Marianne in light
pink and Opera Nights in black satin,
both made with Swarovski Elements,
and Paris Perfection in sheer black
with a spot. For AW12, Harlette is also
presenting the Double Trouble Tie Me
Up Tie Me Down set, also made with
Swarovski Elements, and the Double
Trouble kimono.
Lise Charmel exhibited a series of
jewellery items at Salon International
de La Lingerie in Paris. The necklaces
and earrings have been made of lace
and feature Swarovski detailing. They
have been created to run alongside a
new collection, which is inspired by
a jewellery theme and includes lines
with names such as Royal Saphire and
Rubies Opera. It was not so easy to
have five lines of products with one
theme jewellery," said Lise Charmel
chief executive Olivier Piquet. Jacques
Daumal has worked a lot to try and
translate the jewellery designs into
lingerie. The company also presented
its AW12 Epure collection at the Paris
show, the colours of which are inspired
by the shades of womens make up.
Lise Charmel will be attending both
Moda and Curve NY in February. The
brand opened a subsidiary in New York,
during December, as part of a drive to
develop its presence in the US market.
Berlei launched a new underwire
innovation at Salon International de
la Lingerie in Paris. The technology is
showcased in the brands Supreme Fit
bra for AW12. The product features the
latest UltraFit underwired system, a
patented innovation that ensures no
poke, a couture fit and easy washing.
It works by the underwire being
bonded onto a knitted tube with
flexible tails, which ensures the wire
stays in place. A flat surface next to
the skin also provides greater comfort
for the wearer.
Berlei managing director Tony
Jarvis said: What we have got is
amazing... Berlei will always lead the
way. It will always be the best product.
Valisere claimed a world fi rst
at the Salon International de la
Lingerie trade show in Paris: the
Corsage Magique. The lingerie, which
is being showcased alongside the
brand's AW12 collection, features
50 miniature LED sequins directly
embedded in the delicate embroidery.
It is the fi rst project that integrates
the LED sequins almost invisibly
into the ultra fi ne embroidery and is
adaptable for industrial production.
The LED sequins can be programmed
individually so that they accentuate
the embroidery with their movement,
illuminating the ornaments.
Valisere head of brand management
Monica Zimmer said: The brand
has always shown exclusive designs
and irresistible objects of desire, but
we are now very excited to bring
Valisere to that extraordinary level of
innovation.
Lingerie Francaise launched its
new website at Salon International
de la Lingerie. The site offers visitors
the opportunity to explore vintage
photos from the workshops of the
brands, a fi lm shot behind the scenes
of the manufacturing process and the
history of lingerie in pictures. It will
highlight international events that
have been organised under the group
banner, including information on
brands taking part in specialist salons,
fashion shows, press conferences,
lingerie parades or cultural events,
such as exhibitions, publications,
or retrospectives. Interested parties
can also fi nd technical vocabulary,
specific to lingerie, key figures about
the world lingerie market or the latest
developments in the sector.
Triumph aims to launch a new
flagship store in the UK, this year, it
revealed at SIL. The lingerie brand is
currently seeking a location for the
outlet in central London or within
a key shopping centre within the
greater London area. Fingers crossed,
if everything goes right, we look to
open our fi rst store in 2012, Triumph
general manager sales and marketing
Western Europe Oliver Frielingsdorf
told Lingerie Insight at the Salon
International de la Lingerie show.
It depends so much on the site. The
UK is a big market for us. We are
looking to expand the business very
strategically.
Triumph is already set to open
a "big new showroom," this year
- covering 300 square metres - in
Londons Berners Street. The company
will also be moving all its UK
commercial positions to the capital,
including its marketing, PR, retail,
e-commerce and merchandising
teams. Customer services will remain
at Triumphs Swindon base.
Triumph will kick off its 2012
marketing campaign, this February,
with a consumer launch party for
its Essence collection. The event will
take place at Selfridges and will be
attended by model Helen Christensen.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
1
Valisere, owned
by Triumph,
introduced the
brand to UK buyers.
2
Berlei demonstrated
its innovative
side with a new
underwire design.
3
Lise Charmel drew
inspiration from the
jewellery world with
its latest creations.
4
Lingerie Francaise
revealed a new web
site.
53
SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE / REVIEW
CATWALKS
CHOICE STANDS
Sneak a glimpse of the theatrical and stylish catwalk shows that were presented
at brands individual stands as well as in the main pavilion of SIL.
We bring you a selection of the most creative and
innovative stands from the Salon International de la
Lingerie show.
SAVE THE DATE: MODE CITY 2012
Date: July 7-9
Theme: Fairylike
Colours: White and gold
Designer of the Year:
SAVE THE QUEEN
Key features of Mode City 2012:
New Catwalk
Mode City will be introducing a
third catwalk to its offering, this
coming July. The Designer Show
(a working title) will take place in
addition to its two existing daily
shows that showcase lingerie and
swimwear. The event will focus on
the lingerie and swimwear products
from the event that display the most
original, creative and innovative
design characteristics. It will be
free to feature on the catwalk, with
designers being selected by the Mode
City fashion team. The new catwalk
ties in with the theme for the July
Mode City show, fairylike, which
is inspired by Charles Baudelaires
LInvitation au Voyage. Mode City
54
communications manager Mathilde
Devalois told Lingerie Insight: We
want to take people on a journey.
Last time, it was a trip - like travel.
This time, it is a journey in your head
it is about imagination, inspiration
and creation. There is order, beauty,
luxury, peace and pleasure. It is an
escape from the crisis.
White & Gold Party
Mode City will also be hosting a
massive party, this coming July, for
exhibitors, visitors, and members of
the press. Around 1000 guests will be
invited to the event, which will take
place at The Maison Champs Elysees in
Paris. There will be a compulsory white
and gold dress code for attendees.
Swimwear Report
Mode City will present at the show
the results of a new quantitative
market research into the world of
swimwear. It will include a summary
of consumption figures, major events
and prospects for five European
countries: France, Italy, Germany, the
United Kingdom and Spain.
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
REVIEW / SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE
INTERFILIERE HIGHLIGHTS
VISITORS
11,495 visitors came
to the 2012 Interfiliere,
compared to 10,753
the previous year.
- 37.8% from France
- 59% international
TOP 10 VISITOR
COUNTRIES
1. Italy
2. UK
3. Germany
4. Spain
5. USA
6. Belgium
7. Japan
8. Netherlands
9. Russia
10. Switzerland
General Forum: Bursts of colour
Returning with a fun and inspiring display, the colour range,
showcased by the French hosiery manufacturer Gerbe, presented a
series of bold and daring samples. Guided tours of the Forum were
provided for delegations from South Korea, Japan, Italy and the US.
Designer of the Year
Dogi International Fabrics was named Designer of the Year within the
framework of the Paris, Capitale de la Cration collective. The groups
PDG, Ignacio Mestre, was presented with the award at an event
attended by the international press.
Photography Competition
Colour proved inspirational to the exhibitors, with a series of eyecatching and unexpected images on display. The winner was CAP
SUD, who gained a communication pack worth 4,500 for the July
2012 session of Interfi lire Paris.
EXIBITOR VOX POPS
Thomas Siemensmeyer CEO of Penn Textile Solutions
For us, it was good as expected. On Saturday and Sunday, we
were quite occupied and busy throughout the day. I see that
there are not so many exhibitors this time as you can recognise
that there are some empty spaces and the show itself seems to
be a little bit smaller than the year before. There are definitely no
Asians round here, due to the Chinese New Year. We are quite
satisfied in terms of the visits we have had. We have seen all our
main customers.
Jean-Laurent Perrin CEO of Les Tissages Perrin
In general, we received a satisfactory number of visitors, with
whom we were able to have in-depth discussions. Clients are far
from giving up.
Moda Lingerie &
Swimwear Exhibition
Stand A26
Tel: +44 (0)1295 265557
www.royce-lingerie.co.uk
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
55
INDEPENDENT BATTLE /OPINION
BATTLE FOR INDEPENDENTS
KISS ME DEADLY FOUNDER CATHERINE CLAVERING EXPLAINS WHY INDEPENDENT LABELS
NEED TO STOP TRADING BLOWS AND INSTEAD WORK TOGETHER TO COLLECTIVELY TAKE ON
THE HIGH STREETS BIGGEST BRANDS AND RETAIL CHAINS.
1-2
Its a circus out
there on the high
street and Kiss Me
Deadly suggests
independent brands
need a ringmaster
to coordinate their
eorts..
56
ts time to stop trading
blows. Despite the way were
grouped at shows and within
the industry, independent
brands are competing with
the high street, not each other, for
custom. Or, at least, so our research
last year shows.
Despite the expectations marketing experts set, we found that Playful
Promises, Ayten Gasson, What Katie
Did and Kiss Me Deadly fans could
name hundreds of brands that they
wore regularly, ranging from Primark to la Perla. The most surprising
fi nding? The vast majority were high
street brands; unlike retail outlets
and shows, buyers of one independent
brand arent any more likely to buy
other indie brand even ones seen together as often as vintage style brands
Kiss Me deadly and What Katie Did.
Under these circumstances, it
makes more sense for those of us
with limited capacity, facing the vast
budgets spent on high street publicity
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
campaigns, to work together to pool
resources and promote the independent sector as a whole, rather than to
buy into the concept many retailers have that we compete with each
other.
Clearly, if youre a struggling independent store and want to pull people
away from the chains, you need to be
looking at the UKs vibrant boutique
brand industry.
Competitions are for customers.
So, if were not competing, what are
OPINION / INDEPENDENT BATTLE
we doing? This Valentines Day, 10
boutique brands have joined together
to promote each other and educate
our fans about the role of independent
brands in the industry in general.
Well be running 10 days of lovebombs, where one brand runs a
competition and the rest of us tell
the world what we love about them.
With hosiery, swimwear, silk, full
bust, shapewear and corsetry in the
mix, none of us are anticipating this
being difficult, and it is designed to
promote growth in social media engagement, improve SEO and grow
online coverage all with a minimal
budget, but plenty of cooperation. In
fact, the only cost has been the amazing photoshoot in Cirque Du Soir, the
exclusive London nightclub, with Jessica Abidde from Britain and Irelands
Next Top Model.
Well be promoting the event online from the 30th January until the
10th February inclusive, with plenty of
blog content, so we hope youll all join
us in this celebration of this vibrant
and creative sector of the market.
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
57
LINGERIE LOG / COLUMN
Knowing me
BeingU
SADIA SISAY, CO-FOUNDER
OF BEINGU, OUTLINES WHY
SHE IS FULL OF OPTIMISM
ABOUT 2012.
1
Being U co-founder
Sadia Sisay
58
012 is fi nally here! I really
hope that you all had the
best end to last year that
you could have had and
are gearing up for another
great 12 months.
So far, it seems the lingerie news
is littered with companies going into
administration and stores closing. I
went into a big shopping centre only a
few days ago and one of the big names
in lingerie retail, which I visit every
time, had closed its store there. It had
been there a few weeks back. There
are many reasons to feel despondent.
Despite all this, I have a lot of enthusiasm for the lingerie industry at
moment. Mixed with the bad news,
we have the good, such as new online
stores, new products, new entrants
and it is SHOWTIME!
Please forgive me if it is, once
again, the newness of it all that is responsible for my excitement. Decembers stresses are still there, but not
quite as large as they were before. I
have just decided that there is only so
much I can control and I can only do
what I can do, and keep it simple
So, as we get ready for Curve NY, I
will also be keeping a close eye on all
the other shows, such as Lingerie Collective, MODA and Paris. We were dying to get to all of them but, as Curve
is our US launch, we decided to concentrate on that.
You see, I thought I knew what it
means to get ready for a show. I did
all that in my last corporate job. We
did about three to four shows a year
in different companies. The products and customers were different,
but preparing for a show is really the
same in most industries.
To me, a show was about getting
the stand. Yet, the reality of getting
the products, the newsletters, news
releases, marketing, PR and the rest
ready has really been getting to me. I
just could not understand why I was
fi nding this so much more difficult.
So, I decided to call a friend, one
who I worked with for eight years in
my last job. I told her how hard I was
fi nding it despite the job appearing to
the the same. Why should that be?
She asked me three questions:
Who owned the company you last
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
worked for, how big was the team preparing for show and how much was
your budget then?
My answers were respectively:
Not me, about 20 to 30 and a hell of a
lot more than I have now. It put it all
into perspective.
So, when I look at it like that, I think
we are doing really well with how we
are getting ready. I also think that even
though, regrettably, we are not at all
the shows, particularly MODA, we had
to realise our capabilities and react to
the reality of what we could do.
If we can continue like this, providing product our customers want
with great customer service, then
maybe I have a right to be optimistic, irrespective of some of the news
coming through in the lingerie world.
And, maybe, you do too.
Or, maybe, it is simply the great
news I am dying to share with you
next month on beingU that has me
excited. Who knows?
By Sadia Sisay,
co-founder, beingU
The UK Lingerie Awards,
which will take place at a spectacular London venue in September,
are the ultimate accolades for the British intimate apparel industry.
The nomination process and judging panel will be revealed in February.
To ensure you receive full detail, please contact Kat Slowe at
[email protected].
For details of exclusive sponsorship packages and
to book tables for the gala dinner,
please e-mail
[email protected].
All details of the 2012 UK Lingerie Awards, and full
coverage of the 2011 event can be found at
www.uklingerieawards.com.
www.uklingerieawards
www.lingerieinsight.com
SHOWCASE / OBJECT OF DESIRE
Object of
The Double Trouble kimono and Tie Me Up
Tie Me Down bralette set are part of the AW12
offering from Harlette Luxury Lingerie. Made
of signature lace and silk, featuring Swarovski
Elements, they debuted at the Salon
International de la Lingerie trade show, last
month. The brand is also looking to introduce
an affordable range for the season, called
Harlette Pearl, which will include bras and
knickers for under 50.
RRP: KIMONO, 499.95, SET, 229.95
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
61
SHOWCASE / LINGERIE
ROYCE DARCEY
Royces Darcey range of wire-free bras are chic and contemporary in a deep damson shadow
striped fabric with pretty cutaway vintage lace trim. Its soft cotton lining and innovative underwire
g ensure this unique
q creation provides
p
pp , shape,
p fit and comfort. Darcey
free design
excellent support,
is available in sizes 32-40
D and is perfect for eveD-G
ry
ryday
comfort and for durin pregnancy. Matching
ing
sh
shorts
are available.
R
RRP:
bra 30.00, short 14
C
Contact:
Royce, 01295
2
265557,
royce-lingerie.
co
co.uk
FRAULEIN ANNIE FALLING IN LOVE
MASQUERADE ROSETTI
Falling in Love features a romantic, vintage
Rosetti from Masquerade is a perfect lingerie set for festive
inspired eyelash lace and satin in several
occasions. A balconnet style in scarlet oozes seduction
stylish colours including this mulberry, which
while heavy lace effect embroidery on the cups, satin
launches this year. The range offers a flatter-
cuff neck edges and straps add glamour. The bra is
ing balcony and a fuller bust bra, a multiway
offered in sized up to a H cup. The co-ordinating
basque with a lower back and removable
Brazilian brief and thong both have matching
suspenders, a short and a thong that can be
heavy embroidery fronts with satin cuffs along
worn with the suspender that holds in the
the waistband.
tummy and smoothes the hips.
RRP: 59
RRP: On application
Contact: masquerade-lingerie.com
Contact: [email protected],
frauleinannie.com
MARKIES DEKKERS ETERNAL
SUNSHINE
Eternal Sunshine is inspired by the
Scandinavians enjoyment of the brief
summer sunshine. In vibrant sunshine
orange Marlies has created a print that
fades downwards from strong colour
to pale apricot. Used in combination
with a tonal flat appliqu frond motif
positioned on the neckline of a bra or
on the back of a thong, plus tonal trims,
the three bras and briefs strike a cheery
note in midwinter.
RRP: Collection ranges from around
110 to 220 for a bra and 50 to 80
for a brief.
Contact: marliesdekkers.com
62
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
SWIMWEAR / SHOWCASE
ZOGGS SHELLY
The Shelly Swimdress offers great support
with foam cups and a multiway halterneck
which can also be worn as a bandeau by
tying around the back. It features ruched
adjustable sides for varying amounts of
coverage on the bottom and thigh as
well as a tummy control panel. Available in Elastomax fabric in red and
contrasting navy blue; this is a great
functional swimsuit that doesnt
compromise on style.
RRP: 43.00
Contact: zoggs.com
PAOLITA SS12 CARMEN MIRANDA
Paolitas one-piece swimming costumes have an
elongating central panel, yet the fun, flirty patterns
and colors keep the pieces sexy and refined. The
LEPEL ULTRAMARINE
exciting, yet completely functional collections
transcend age to provide quality garments to real
The Ultramarine collection is available in a
women who want to feel beautiful at the beach. The
unique aquatic print that blends blue-marine
Carmen Miranda swimsuit (pictured) is inspired
colours with mottled shapes as seen through
by the South American-born Hollywood star of the
the sunlit waters of majestic oceans. Dark
1940s and 50s.
navy low-lights contrast with highlights in
RRP: On application
zesty lime making Ultramarine the perfect
Contact: [email protected]
poolside style statement. The swimwear
is offered as a padded suit with removable
straps, a graduated padded bikini top, and a
concealed underwear top and shorts.
RRP: One piece suit: 40
Contact: Lepel, 0115 983 6000, lepel.co.uk
PANACHE TALLULAH
Tallulah is an eye-catching new retro
style in an Australian designed floral
print with bursts of bright pinks, purples and oranges on a charcoal and
ivory base; perfect for a vibrant look.
The sweetheart neckline of the new
balconnet bikini gives great shape
and support and the high waist pant
has power panels with a gathered
front for a smooth profile. Available
up to J cup.
RRP: 55 for set
Contact: panache-lingerie.com
www.lingerieinsight.com / FEBRUARY 2012 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
63
EVENTS / SOCIAL LITE
Who was to be seen on the scene at the most
glamorous events in the world of lingerie this month...
2
1
Nichole de Carle
dresses Taio Cruz
dancers on the
Graham Norton
Show.
2
R&B star Shym
arrives at NRJ
Music Awards in
Franck Sorbierdesigned corset.
3
Ultimos Michelle
Mone & retail giant
Philip Green at the
Retail Trust Ball.
4
Former Triumph
brand ambassador
Louise Redknapp
with Philip Green.
5
Host of Retail Trust
Ball George Lamb.
6, 7 & 8
CiCi PR & Events
hosts a celebrity
press day for its
lingerie clients.
64
LINGERIE INSIGHT / FEBRUARY 2012 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
Visit us at Moda
Stand MA25
WWW.CLEO-LINGERIE.COM
Featuring: MEG D-J cup
Visit us at MODA 2012:
NEC.
Stand C21, Hall 17, Birmingham
2.
201
ry
From 19 21 Februa