MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module

Short Description

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MIKE21_BW_short_description_.docx /I HKH/AJS / 2015-11-18

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Denmark

[email protected]
www.mikepoweredbydhi.com

DHI

Application Areas

MIKE 21 BW - Boussinesq Wave

Module
MIKE 21 BW is the state-of-the-art numerical
modelling tool for studies and analysis of wave
disturbance in ports, harbours and coastal areas.
The combination of an advanced GUI and efficient
computational engines has made it an irreplaceable
tool for professional coastal and harbour engineers
around the world.
MIKE 21 BW has been used successfully for the
analysis of operational and design conditions within
ports and harbours. By the inclusion of surf and
swash zone dynamics, the application range is
extended further into the coastal engineering.

MIKE 21 BW includes the two models:

2DH Boussinesq wave model

1DH Boussinesq wave model

The 2DH model covers two horizontal space-coordinates) and the 1DH model one horizontal spaceco-ordinate (coastal profiles).
MIKE 21 BW is based on the numerical solution of
the time domain formulations of Boussinesq type
equations, Madsen et al (1991, 1992, 1997a,b),
Srensen and Srensen (2001) and Srensen et al
(2004).
Both models solve the Boussinesq type equations
using a flux-formulation with improved frequency
dispersion characteristics. The enhanced
Boussinesq type equations make the models
suitable for simulation of propagation of non-linear
directional waves from deep to shallow water.

MIKE 21 BW is a state-of-the-art numerical tool for studies

and analysis of short and long period wave disturbance in
ports and harbours

MIKE 21 BW is capable of reproducing the

combined effects of all important wave phenomena
of interest in port, harbour and coastal engineering.
These include:

shoaling
refraction
diffraction
wave breaking
bottom dissipation
moving shoreline
partial reflection
wave transmission
non-linear wave-wave interactions
frequency spreading
directional spreading

MIKE 21 BW includes two models. The 2DH model (upper

panel) is traditionally applied for calculation of wave
disturbance in ports, harbours and coastal areas. The 1DH
model (lower panel) is selected for calculation of wave
transformation from offshore to the beach for the study of
surf zone and swash zone dynamics

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

Application Areas
A major application area of MIKE 21 BW is
determination and assessment of wave dynamics in
ports and harbours and in coastal areas. The
disturbance inside harbour basins is one of the most
important factors when engineers are to select
construction sites and determine the optimum
harbour layout in relation to predefined criteria for
acceptable wave disturbance, ship movements,
mooring arrangements and handling down-time.

2DH Boussinesq Wave Model

Applications of the 2DH model include:

determination of wave disturbance caused by

wind-waves and swell
analysis of low-frequency oscillations (seiching
and harbour resonance) caused by forcing of
e.g. short-wave induced long waves

Simulation of wave penetration, Frederikshavn harbour,

Denmark

Simulation of wave propagation and agitation in a harbour area for an extreme wave event. The breaking waves
(surface rollers) are shown in white

wave transformation in coastal areas where

reflection and/or diffraction are important
phenomena

surf zone calculations including wave-induced

circulation and run-up/run-down

simulation of propagation and transformation of

transients such as ship-generated waves and
tsunamis

The assessment of low-frequency motions in

existing as well as new harbours is often performed
by a combination of simulations with synthetic whitenoise spectra and simulations with natural wave
spectra. The purpose of the former type of
simulation is to investigate the potential for
seiching/resonance and identify the natural
frequencies. This is particularly useful for
comparisons of alternative layouts.

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI

Application Areas

Wave transformation in Port of Long Beach, CA, USA

Wave transformation, wave breaking and run-up in the

vicinity of a detached breakwater parallel to the shoreline.
The lower image shows the associated circulation cell
behind the breakwater
MIKE 21 BW application in Port of Sines, Portugal

MIKE 21 BW is also applied for prediction and

analysis of the impact of ship-generated waves (also
denoted as wake wash) in ports and harbours and
coastal areas. Essential boundary conditions (at
open or internal boundaries) for the models can be
obtained from 3D computational fluid dynamic (CFD)
models, experimental data, full-scale data and/or
empirical relationships.

Natural fundamental modes of low-frequency oscillation.

Long wave energy intensity and surface elevation
envelopes along the longitudinal line of the basin. The
digital filtering is performed the WSWAT analysis tool
included in MIKE Zero

With inclusion of wave breaking and moving

shoreline MIKE 21 BW is also an efficient tool for the
study of many complicated coastal phenomena, e.g.
wave induced-current patterns in areas with complex
structures.

Wave breaking and run-up of ship waves on an offshore

island

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

1DH Boussinesq Wave Model

Applications of the 1DH model include:

Wave transformation, wave breaking and run-up on an

offshore island (directional wave input)

computation of transformation of non-linear

waves from deep water through the surf zone
and to the beach

analysis of generation and release of lowfrequency waves

analysis of wave breaking, undertow and run-up

on dikes, revetments and beaches

The 1DH model can be applied for a number of

transects (one spatial dimension) where surf zone
and swash zone dynamics are simulated.
With the inclusion of wave breaking not only the
spatial variation of e.g. the significant wave height,
maximum wave height and wave set-up on the
beach can be computed, but also details like the
generation and release of low-frequency energy due
to primary wave transformation can be computed.
This is of significant importance for harbour
resonance (seiching) and coastal processes.

Examples of simulation of wave transformation in larger

coastal areas using the 2DH model

Transformation of irregular non-linear waves over a natural

barred beach profile (upper panel). Offshore (left) and
onshore (right) frequency wave spectra (lower panels).
1
The spectra are computed using the WSWAT analysis
tool included in MIKE Zero (see page 14)

Wave disturbance in Rnne Harbour, Denmark

1

WSWAT is a package within the MIKE Zero framework

including a number of advanced modules for detailed wave
analysis of time series data from physical model tests,
numerical simulations or field measurements. WSWAT is a
particularly a strong tool for analysing MIKE 21 BW output
data in time and space.

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI

Model Equations

Model Equations
The Boussinesq wave models included in MIKE 21
BW solve the enhanced Boussinesq equations
expressed in one or two horizontal dimensions in
terms of the free surface elevation, , and the depthintegrated velocity-components, P and Q.

The incorporation of wave breaking is based on the

concept of surface rollers, where the terms denoted
Rxx, Rxy and Ryy account for the excess momentum
originating from the non-uniform velocity distribution
due to the presence of the surface roller. Rxx, Rxy
and Ryy are defined by:

The Boussinesq equations read:

Continuity
n

P Q

0
t x y

P
cx
1 / h
h

Rxy

P
Q
c x c y
1 / h
h
h

R yy

Q
cy
1 / h
h

x-momentum
n

P P 2 PQ Rxx Rxy

t x h y h
x
x

y-momentum
Q Q 2 PQ Rxx Rxy

t y h x h
x
x

P 2 Q 2 gQ P 2 Q 2

n 2 gh
n 2 Q
n2 0

y
h
h 2C 2

where the dispersive Boussinesq terms 1 and 2

are defined by

1
1

- dd x P xt + Q yt + nBgd (2 xx + yy )
6
3

- dd y Q xt + nBgd xy
6

1 2

3
2 - B + d Q yyt + P xyt - nBg d yyy + xxy
3

Here (t , x, y) is the thickness of the surface

P 2 Q 2 gP P 2 Q 2

n 2 gh
n 2 P
n1 0

x
h
h 2C 2

1 2

3
1 - B + d P xxt + Q xyt - nBg d xxx + xyy
3

R xx

roller and

c x and c y are the components of the

roller celerity.
The enhanced Boussinesq type equations make the
models suitable for simulation of the propagation of
directional wave trains travelling from deep to
shallow water.
Symbol list
3

flux density in the x-direction (m /m/s)

flux density in the y-direction (m /m/s)

Boussinesq dispersion coefficient (-)

x, y

Cartesian co-ordinates (m)

time (s)

total water depth (=d+ )

still water depth (m)

gravitational acceleration (= 9.81 m/s )

porosity (-)

Chezy resistance number (m /s)

resistance coefficient for laminar flow in

porous media (-)

resistance coefficient for turbulent flow in

porous media (-)

water surface elevation above datum (m)

0.5

1
1

- dd y Q yt + P xt + nBgd (2 yy + xx )
6
3

- dd x P yt + nBgd xy
6

Subscripts x, y and t denote partial differentiation

with respect to space and time, respectively.

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

Momentum
n

P P 2 R xx

1
3P

n 2 gh n( B )d 2

t x h
x
x
3
xxt

P gP P
1 d 2 P
w
d
n 2 Bgd 2
n 2 P
0
3 x xt
x
h h 2C 2

Cross-section of a breaking wave and the assumed

vertical profile of the horizontal particle velocity
components

The maximum depth to deep-water wavelength is

h/L0 0.5 (or kh 3.1, where kh is the relative wave
number) for B= 1/15. For the classical Boussinesq
equations (B= 0) the maximum depth to deep-water
wavelength is h/L0 0.22 (or kh 1.4).

Auxiliary variable w
w

(d )
x x

These equations only contain terms with second

order derivatives with respect to the spatial coordinates. Recasting these equations into a weak
form using the standard Galerkin finite element
method and applying the divergence theorem to the
dispersive Boussinesq type terms, the equations can
be written in a form, which only requires the
interpolation functions to be continuous as described
in Srensen et al (2004).

Solution Methods
The numerical implementation is different for the two
models.

2DH Boussinesq Wave Model

Wave propagation and transformation of a tsunami in an

urbanised coastal area simulated by MIKE 21 BW 2DH

1DH Boussinesq Wave Model

The 1DH model of MIKE 21 BW solves the
enhanced Boussinesq equations by a standard
Galerkin finite element method with mixed
interpolation.
One of the main problems when solving Boussinesq
type equations using finite element techniques is the
presence of higher-order spatial derivatives. In MIKE
21 BW this problem is handled by using an approach
where the Boussinesq type equations are written in
a lower order form by introducing a new auxiliary
variable w and an auxiliary algebraic equation. The
governing equations then have the following form:

The differential equations are spatially discretised on

a rectangular, staggered grid as illustrated below.
Scalar quantities such as water surface elevation are
defined in the grid nodes, whereas flux components
are defined halfway between adjacent grid nodes in
the respective directions.
The finite-difference approximation of the spatial
derivatives is a straightforward mid-centring, except
for the convective terms, which are described in
detail in Madsen and Srensen (1992) and Madsen
et al (1997a).
The integration in time is performed using a timecentred implicit scheme. The applied algorithm is a
non-iterative Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI)
algorithm, using a 'fractional step' technique and
'side-feeding' (semi-linearization of non-linear terms).
The resulting tri-diagonal systems of equations are
solved by the Double Sweep Algorithm.

Continuity
n

0
t x

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI

Model Input Data

Model Input Data

The necessary input data to the two models in MIKE
21 BW can be divided into the following groups:

Basic data:
bathymetry
type of model and equations
numerical parameters
type of boundaries
time step and length of simulation

Calibration data:
initial conditions
boundary data
internal wave generation data
wave breaking
moving shoreline
bottom friction
partial wave reflection/transmission
wave absorbing

Output data:
deterministic output
phase-averaged output
wave disturbance output
hot start output
moving shoreline output

Staggered grid in x-y-space

1DH Boussinesq Wave Model

Finite element solutions of the Boussinesq equations
in primitive form can exhibit severe spurious modes
especially when equal-order interpolation functions
are applied for the fluxes and the surface elevation.
To get stable and oscillation free solutions, mixed
interpolation is used in the present version of the
model. Elements with quadratic fluxes and linear
surface elevation and auxiliary variable are applied.

An example of a bathymetry used in MIKE 21 BW 1DH

The integration in time is performed using either an

explicit three step Taylor-Galerkin scheme or a
th
predictor-corrector method (4 -order AdamsBashforth-Moulton method).
To obtain the auxiliary variable and the derivatives
with respect to time of the fluxes and surface
elevation, three sets of linear equations have to be
solved. For small problems, these systems can be
solved using Gaussian elimination with sparse
technique. For larger systems more cost-efficient
methods are used such as a Krylov subspace
iterative method (e.g. GMRES) combined with an
efficient pre-conditioner (e.g. incomplete LU
factorisation). Both methods are implemented in
MIKE 21 BW.

Example of bathymetry used in the MIKE 21 BW 2DH

model

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

The main task in preparing the input data for the

MIKE 21 BW models is to generate a bathymetry,
maps of porosity and sponge layers. Porosity layers
are used to model either partial reflection and/or
transmission through porous structures. For areas
where wave radiation is required absorbing sponge
layers are specified.

Graphical user interface of the MIKE 21 Toolbox

Example of a map including sponge layer and internal
wave generation data

The Bathymetry Editor, which is included in the

MIKE 21 PP (Pre- and Post-processing) package,
provides an efficient work environment for creating,
editing and presenting detailed digital bathymetries.
Tools for preparation of porosity and sponge layer
maps are included in the MIKE 21 Toolbox as
illustrated below.

Incident waves are specified through boundary

conditions. The waves may either be specified along
open boundaries or be generated internally within
the model.
At open boundaries, the incident wave energy is
given as time series of surface elevations (level
boundary) or flux densities perpendicular to the
boundary (flux boundary). For the enhanced
Boussinesq equations additional information about
the derivatives of the surface elevation is required.
As outgoing waves will be reflected from an open
boundary, this type of boundary is applied when no
or minor reflection is expected from the model area.
With internal wave generation it is possible to
generate fully directional waves or unidirectional
waves propagating with an angle to the generation
line. The generation line is placed in front of a
sponge layer absorbing all outgoing waves.

Example of a map including porosity layers for modelling

of partial reflection/transmission

Boundary or internal generation data is easily

prepared using the tools included in the MIKE 21
Toolbox. The tools support the most widely used
type of frequency spectra as well as user-defined
spectra and directional distributions. The Toolbox is
also capable of generating regular waves of Cnoidal
type, Stokes type or Boussinesq type.

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI

Model Output

Binary output data may also be loaded directly into a

MATLAB workspace using DHI's DFS Functions for
MATLAB, which can be downloaded from:
http://www.mikepoweredbydhi.com/download/mike-by-dhi-tools

Output from MIKE 21 BW 2DH. The panel to the left

shows a map of the instantaneous surface elevation. The
right panel shows the map of the corresponding wave
disturbance coefficients. Nykbing Mors harbour,
Denmark
MIKE 21 BW supports input data representing directional,
unidirectional and regular wave conditions

Deterministic Output Parameters

Model Output
Five types of output data can be obtained from the
model:

Deterministic parameters
Phase-averaged parameters
Wave disturbance parameters (2DH only)
Hot start parameters (2DH only)
Moving shoreline parameters (1DH only)

Deterministic parameter data basically consist of

time series of surface elevations and depthintegrated velocity components. Phase-averaged
parameters are obtained by user defined timeintegration of derived variables.
All type of output data can be post-processed,
analysed and presented in various graphical forms
using the pre- and post-processing module, MIKE 21
PP as well as other tools within the MIKE Zero
framework.
Examples are:

Time series plots (0D, 2D and 3D)

Data checking by graphical and tabular view
Statistics
2D/3D animations (e.g. AVI)
Time series analysis (using WSWAT) analysis
GIS presentation (using DHI Marine GIS
Extension for ArcGIS)

The deterministic output dialog of MIKE 21 BW allows the

user to save time series of surface elevations in points,
along transects or in domain areas for subsequent
analysis and visualisation

The following deterministic output parameters can

be selected from the user interface:

Surface elevation
Water level
P flux
Q flux
Still water depth
Auxiliary variable
Roller thickness
Roller angle
Roller celerity cx
Roller celerity cy
Water level (roller)

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

The following phase-averaged output parameters

can be selected from the user interface:

Example of deterministic output (instantaneous surface

elevation), Klaksvik, Faeroe Islands

Phase-averaged Output Parameters

Significant wave height

Maximum wave height
Maximum surface elevation
Minimum surface elevation
Mean surface elevation
Mean flux, P
Mean flux, Q
Mean velocity, u0
Mean velocity, v0
Mean roller thickness
Skewness
Kurtosis
Atiltness
Radiation stress (1DH only)

The phase-averaged output dialog of MIKE 21 BW allows

the user to save a large number of commonly used
derived variables

It is possible to select between the following two

types of phase-averaged wave statistics:

Cumulative statistics
Subseries statistics

and whether or not the phase averaging should

cover the swash zone. If "cumulative statistics" is
selected, the output items will be updated regularly
corresponding to a specified update interval. In the
case of "subseries statistics", the output items will be
set to zero at the update interval.

Output from MIKE 21 BW 2DH. Maximum wave height,

Torsminde Harbour, Denmark

10

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI

Model Output

Wave Disturbance Output Parameters (2DH

only)

Moving Shoreline Output Parameters (1DH

only)

MIKE 21 BW is the optimal tool for design of new terminals

MIKE 21 BW can be used to study swash zone oscillations

and run-up

The wave disturbance coefficient is defined as the

ratio of the significant wave height relative to the
incoming significant wave height. If e.g. the wave
height at a given position is 0.5 m and the incoming
(offshore) wave height is 2.0 m, then the wave
disturbance coefficient is 0.5/2.0 = 0.25, or 25 %.
The following wave disturbance related output
parameters can be selected from the user interface:

Significant wave height, Hm0

Wave disturbance coefficient, Hm0/Hm0,incoming
Time of arrival of the first wave

Additional wave statistics for the areas defined in a

so-called "Area Code Map" file can be extracted.
The statistics cover following parameters:

Maximum wave disturbance

Minimum wave disturbance
Mean wave disturbance
Standard deviation
Number of data for each defined area

The moving shoreline output parameters consist of

time series containing the following three output
items:

Horizontal run-up
Vertical run-up
Total run-up

Hot Start Output Parameters (2DH only)

The hot start facility in MIKE 21 BW allows starting a
simulation as a continuation of an earlier run. To
enable this, details of the finishing conditions of
earlier simulations must have been saved in a hot
data.
This type of output is mainly used for 2DH
applications involving wave-current interactions,
where the wave simulation is hot started from a run
with currents only.

Examples of output from 1DH model

The additional wave statistics output is saved in an

ASCII text file, which can be viewed by a common
text editor or imported into a spreadsheet.

Output from MIKE 21 BW 1DH. The panel shows the

instantaneous surface elevation on a sloping beach

11

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

Comparison between measured and simulated significant

wave height on a barred beach

Validation
MIKE 21 BW has successfully been applied to a
large number of rather basic idealised situations for
which the results can be compared with analytical
solutions or information from the literature. The
results are presented in various internationally
accepted journals, see the reference section.
The models have also been validated under natural
geophysical conditions, which are more realistic and
complex than the academic and laboratory tests, see
references on applications.
Example of moving shoreline output parameters; vertical
and horizontal wave run-up on a coast (irregular waves)

MIKE21 BW includes a number of Java scripts for efficient

model set-up and execution
Comparison between measured and simulated significant
wave height. Beirut Marina, Lebanon

12

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI

Graphical User Interface

Graphical user interface of MIKE 21 BW, including an example of the Online Help System

Graphical User Interface

MIKE 21 BW is operated through a fully Windows
integrated Graphical User Interface (GUI). Support is
provided at each stage by an Online Help System.
The common MIKE Zero shell provides entries for
common data file editors, plotting facilities and a
toolbox for/utilities as the Mesh Generator and Data
Viewer.

Overview of the common MIKE Zero utilities

13

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

The recommended minimum hardware requirements

for executing MIKE 21 BW are:
Processor:
Memory (RAM):
Hard disk:
Monitor:
Graphic card:

3 GHz PC (or higher)

4 GB (or higher)
160 GB (or higher)
SVGA, resolution 1024x768
64 MB RAM (256 MB RAM or
higher is recommended)

Support
News about new features, applications, papers,
updates, patches, etc. are available here:
www.mikepoweredbydhi.com/Download/DocumentsAndTools.aspx

WS Wave Analysis Tools included in MIKE Zero is a

package of advanced modules for detailed wave analysis
of time series data from numerical model simulations

Parallelisation
The computational engine of the MIKE 21 BW
Module has been parallelised using shared memory
architecture (OpenMP). The result is faster
simulations on systems with multiple cores.

For further information on MIKE 21 BW, please

contact your local DHI office or the support centre:
MIKE Powered by DHI Client Care
Agern All 5
DK-2970 Hrsholm
Denmark
Tel: +45 4516 9333
Fax: +45 4516 9292
[email protected]
www.mikepoweredbydhi.com

References
Srensen, O.R., Schffer, H.A. and Srensen, L.S.,
2004. Boussinesq type modelling using an
unstructured finite element technique. Coastal Eng.,
50, 181-198.
Srensen, O.R. and Srensen. L.S., 2001.
Boussinesq type modelling using unstructured finite
element technique. In Proc. 27th Coastal Eng. Conf.
190-202.
MIKE 21 BW speed-up using multicore PCs with shared
memory architecture. Shaded area indicates typical
speed-up range

Hardware and Operating System

Requirements
The MIKE 21 BW Module supports Microsoft
Windows 7 Professional Service Pack 1 (32 and
64 bit), Windows 8.1 Pro (64 bit), Windows 10 Pro
(64 bit) and Windows Server 2012 R2 Standard
(64 bit). Microsoft Internet Explorer 9.0 (or higher) is
required for network license management as well as
for accessing the Online Help.

14

Madsen, P.A., Srensen, O.R. and Schffer, H.A.,

1997a. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a
Boussinesq type model. Part I: Model description
and cross-shore motion of regular waves. Coastal
Eng., 32, 255-288.
Madsen, P.A., Srensen, O.R. and Schffer, H.A.,
1997b. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a
Boussinesq type model. Part II: Surf beat and swash
zone oscillations for wave groups and irregular
waves. Coastal Eng., 32, 289-320.

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI

Documentation

Madsen, P A. and Srensen, O. R., 1992. A New

Form of the Boussinesq Equations with Improved
Linear Dispersion Characteristics, Part 2: A Slowlyvarying Bathymetry. Coastal Eng., 18, 183-204.
Madsen, P.A., Murray, R. and Srensen, O. R.,
1991. A New Form of the Boussinesq Equations with
Improved Linear Dispersion Characteristics (Part 1).
Coastal Eng., 15, 371-388.

Documentation
The MIKE 21 & MIKE 3 models are provided with
comprehensive user guides, online help, scientific
documentation, application examples and step-bystep training examples.

Madsen, P.A., 1983. Wave Reflection from a Vertical

Permeable Wave Absorber. Coastal Eng., 7, 381396.
Abbott, M. B., Petersen, H. M. and Skovgaard, O.,
1978. On the Numerical Modelling of Short Waves in
Shallow Water. J. Hydr. Res., 16, 173-204.

MIKE 21 BW includes wave breaking (surface rollers)

Selected references on applications

Kofoed-Hansen, H., Kerper, D.R., Srensen, O.R.,
Kirkegaard, J., 2005. Simulation of long wave
agitation in ports and harbours using a time-domain
Boussinesq model. In preparation.
Gierlevsen, T., Hebsgaard, M. and Kirkegaard, J.,
2001. Wave disturbance modelling in Port of Sines,
Portugal - with special emphasis on long period
oscillations. In Proc. International Conference on
Port and Maritime R&D and Technology, Singapore,
29-21 October 2001, 337-344.
Kofoed-Hansen, H., Slot, P., Srensen O.R. and
Fuchs, J., 2001. Combined numerical and physical
modelling of seiching in exposed new marina. In
Proc. 27th International Conference of Coastal
Engineering, 3600-3614.
Kuang-ming, Y., Rugbjerg, M. and Kej, A., 1987.
Numerical modelling of harbour disturbance in
comparison with physical modelling and field
measurements. Proc. Second Int. Conf. on Coastal
and Port Eng. in Developing Countries, Beijing,
China.
Berenguer, I., Rugbjerg, M., Madsen, P. A. and Kej,
A., 1986. Mathematical and physical wave
disturbance modelling-complementary tools. Proc.
20th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Taipei, 9-14
November 1986.

15

MIKE 21 Wave Modelling

16

MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave Module - DHI