Lonely Planet Publications

THE GAMBIA 314 lonelyplanet.com T H E G A M B I A H i g h l i g h t s 315

THE GAMBIA
The Gambia
HIGHLIGHTS
Serekunda market (p324) Weave your way HOW MUCH?


through The Gambias most crammed
Soft drink US$0.55
market to the sound of booming reggae

Newspaper US$0.35
and beeping car horns.

Abuko (p325) Look out for rare birds and
Sandwich US$2
giant crocodiles in Africas smallest na-
French bread US$0.30
ture reserve.
Its easy to miss The Gambia on a map of mighty Africa. This tiny sliver of land is a mere
One hour internet US$0.60

Kololi (p320) Lounge at the beach, then
500km long and 50km wide, and, with the exception of an 80km shoreline, its entirely dance till you drop in The Gambias
enveloped by Senegal. But beach-bound tourists have long known how to trace this oddly glitzy tourist resorts. LONELY PLANET INDEX
shaped country on the map. Its magnificent coast invites visitors to laze and linger, tempting
Gunjur (p325) Beaches arent for sunbath-
ing only; soak up the busy atmosphere of
1L petrol US$1.10 (and rising)
with luxurious beach resorts and bustling fishing villages. But theres more to Africas smallest this traditional fishing village.
1L bottled water US$1
country than sun and surf. Stunning nature reserves, such as Abuko and Kiang West, and
River Gambia National Park (p326) Cruise
Bottle of Flag/Julbrew US$0.60
the historical slaving stations of St James Island and Jufureh offer peaceful pauses from the down the Gambia River with an amazing

Souvenir T-shirt US$9
clamour of the nearby coast. And The Gambias vibrant culture is always there to be taken array of birdlife for company.

Shwarma US$1.50
in by open-eyed visitors. Traditional wrestling matches regularly take place in Serekundas
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
arenas, the heaving markets of Banjul and Serekunda have you soaking up the atmosphere Most tourists travel to The Gambia during the
and sharpening your negotiation skills, and the striking performances of kora-strumming dry and relatively cool months from Novem- coast throughout the 15th and 16th centuries,
griots can be experienced during weddings, baptisms or public concerts. ber to February (daytime maximums around exchanging salt, iron, pots and pans, firearms
24C). This is also the best time to watch wild- and gunpowder for ivory, ebony, beeswax,
Bird-lovers will easily be seduced by this compact country. On a tour upriver, the cries life and birds. gold and slaves.
of over 300 species will follow you as your pirogue (traditional canoe) charts a leisurely The wet season starts around late June and Baltic Germans first built a fort on James
course through mangrove-lined wetlands and the island of Georgetown. Even if your or- lasts until late September, when temperatures Island in 1651, and were displaced in 1661
rise to around 30C, the rains make some by the British, who found themselves under
nithological skills dont go beyond identifying an inner-city pigeon, youll be tempted to upcountry roads inaccessible, vegetation is constant threat from French ships, pirates and
wield binoculars here, and can rely on an excellent network of trained guides to help you lush and the rivers swelling. African kings. New forts were built at Barra
tell a pelican from a flamingo. and Bathurst (now Banjul), at the mouth of
ITINERARIES the Gambia River, to control the movement

One Week Spend a good amount of time at of ships. Fort James continued to be an im-
the beaches of the Atlantic Coast (p320), portant collection point for slaves until the
FAST FACTS
and tie in the occasional day trip to the abolition of slavery in 1807.

Area 11,295 sq km busy market of Serekunda (p324), sleepy The British continued to extend their influ-
Banjul (p318), the pretty museum and ence further upstream until the 1820s, when

ATMs At banks in Banjul, on the Atlantic
Coast, in Serekunda and at the airport
bird reserve of Tanji (p325), the fishing the territory was declared a British protector-
village of Gunjur (p325) and the cute ate ruled from Sierra Leone. In 1888 Gambia

Borders Senegal Abuko Nature Reserve (p325). became a crown colony, by which time the

Budget US$20 to US$40 per day
Two Weeks Follow the one-week itinerary, surrounding territory of Senegal had fallen

Capital Banjul
then go on a Roots tour to Jufureh (p325) into French custody.
and take a ride to mangrove-hidden Bin- Gambia became self-governing in 1963

Languages English, Mandinka, Wolof, Fula tang Bolong (p326). Treat yourself to though it took two more years until real inde-

Money Dalasi; US$1 = D27 a river trip up to Georgetown (p326), pendence was achieved. Gambia became The

Population 1.6 million
where you can take pirogue excursions Gambia, Bathurst became Banjul, and David
to Wassu (p326), River Gambia National Jawara, leader of the Peoples Progressive Party,

Seasons Dry (November to April), hot (May to June), wet (July Park (p326) and Basse Santa Su (p327). became Prime Minister Dawda Jawara.
to October) High groundnut prices and the advent of

Telephone Country code %220; international access code %00 HISTORY package tourism led to something of a boom in

Time GMT/UTC The Empires of Ghana (5th to 11th centuries) the 1960s. Jawara consolidated his power, and
and Mali (13th to 15th centuries) extended became president when The Gambia became

Visa Cost US$25 to US$45, but are not required by citizens of the
their influence over the region that is now a fully fledged republic in 1970. As ground-
British Commonwealth, Scandinavian countries, Belgium, Germany,
The Gambia. By 1456 the first Portuguese nut prices fell in the 1980s, and tourism rev-
Netherlands and Spain
navigators landed on James Island and quickly enues did not trickle down the economic scale,
monopolised trade along the West African two coups were hatched but thwarted with



316 T H E G A M B I A C u l t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E G A M B I A A r t s & C r a f t s 317

THE GAMBIA

THE GAMBIA
0 30 km
THE GAMBIA 0 20 miles

To Kaolack (55km); To Kaolack (45km);

SENEGAL Dakar (237km)
Dakar (247km) SENEGAL

Tr
ans
-G Kau-ur Njau Charmen Wassu Stone Circles To Tambacounda
am
ATLANTIC bia
River Gambia
Wassu (10km)
Kuntaur

Hw
OCEAN National Park Maka
Sotokoi

y
Baboon MacCarthy
Ginak Island Dankunku Island
Island

Karang Farafenni
(Niumi National Park)
Kuntair
Piniai Georgetown Kunkilling
Baobolong Katchang Fula Kunda (Jangjang-bureh) Forest Park
Bakau Wetland Gam Sutukoba

Fajara Barra Reserve Pakali Mansa Baro Kunda Sankuli bia
Kotu Kerewan Salikene Kunda
BANJUL Nding Konko
Genieri Soma Dobo
Kololi Serekunda River Tendaba Pata Bansang Forest Park Upper Gambia

Tanji River Jufureh a Kiang West
Bird Reserve Abuko bi National Park Kwinella Jappeni Diabugu River
Darsilami
Fatoto Kantale
Tanji Nature Reserve Lamin
G amL o w e r G a m b i a Kunda
Banjul River River
Tujering James

International Albreda g To
Sanyang
Airport Island
tan Bolong Mdina- Sare Bojo Basse Santa Su
Tambacounda
Bin Yorofoula (48km)
Brikama Faraba Banta Tumani Tenda Sabi

Bintang Bwiam
Bondali Kalagi
Bessi

wy
Gunjur Giboro Somita Sibanor Kanilai Joli

ia H
Darsilami Mdina Gounas

Slti Vlingara

mb
SENEGAL

-Ga
Kartong To Kolda
To Kafountine To Ziguinchor s To Bignona
(25km) SENEGAL an (103km)
Diouloulou (73km) Tr (45km)

Senegalese assistance. This cooperation led to easily accessible. Wiping the gloss off those the tourist industry. Forty-five percent of The Banjuls national museum has a few good
the 1982 confederation of the two countries descriptions, some of the smile still remains, Gambias population is under 14 years old. examples of traditional statues and carved
under the name of Senegambia, reportedly though real hospitality is easier found up- The main ethnic groups are the Mandinka masks on display. Also fascinating is the art
the first step to unification, but the union country, away from the coastal resorts where (comprising around 42%), the Wolof (about of batik making (where fabric is printed using
collapsed by 1989. Meanwhile, corruption mass tourism has somewhat distorted social 16%) and the Fula (around 18%). Smaller wax to cover areas not to be dyed), which
increased, economic decline continued and relations and the respectful interaction other- groups include the Serer and Jola. contemporary artists such Baboucar Fall
popular discontent rose. Finally, in July 1994, wise typical of the country. About 90% of The Gambias population is and Toimbo Laurens push into new creative
Jawara was overthrown in a reportedly blood- Years of authoritarian rule have also resulted Muslim. Christian faith is most widespread directions.
less coup led by Lieutenant Yahya Jammeh. in a certain climate of distrust. Conversations among the Jola and to a lesser extent the
are often conducted with care, and few peo- Serer. ENVIRONMENT
The Gambia Today ple will express their views on governmental At only 11,295 sq km, The Gambia is the
After a brief flirtation with dictatorship, the politics openly you never know who might ARTS & CRAFTS smallest country in Africa (half the size of
30-year-old Jammeh bowed to international be listening. Being aware of the troubles that The Gambia is a major centre of the kora (a Wales, or less than twice that of Delaware)
pressure, inaugurated a Second Republic and plague the population will help you to under- stringed instrument combining features of and its territory is entirely dominated by the
won the 1996 presidential election comfort- stand silences in conversation or the avoidance the hap and lute), an icon of African music Gambia River. There are few significant vari-
ably. Human-rights groups and democratic of topics, and gradually grant you an insight throughout the world whose history is deeply ations in altitude (the Gambia River loses less
watchdogs were all put at high alert when, in into the real Gambia, the one that lies beyond connected to The Gambia. This tiny coun- than 10m in elevation over 450km) or vege-
2004, prominent journalist Deyda Heydara the polished smiles and tourist hustling. try became a veritable centre of kora playing tation, which consists largely of savannah,
was assassinated after having expressed his Modern Gambian life consists of the when Malink groups settled in the region gallery forests and saline marshes.
opposition to a new controversial media law, scramble to make ends meet and get ahead, after the gradual collapse of the mighty Em- The Gambia has six national parks and
and in March 2006, an alleged coup dtat tempered by the pleasures of family, the obli- pire of Mali. Famous kora players include reserves, covering 3.7% of the landmass. The
attempt led to the cleansing of governmen- gations of community and a genuine concern Amadou Bansang Jobarteh, Jali Nyama Suso, four most accessible and interesting Abuko,
tal ranks. That same year, the country again for others welfare. Further upriver, an alter- Dembo Konte and Malamini Jobarteh. Kiang West, Gambia River and Tanji are
prepared for elections, this time against a native reality emerges, one that is poorer and In the 1960s The Gambia was hugely influ- mentioned in this chapter.
background of increasing autocracy. It now more isolated. Opportunities may be thinner ential in the development of modern West Af- The most visible environmental problem is
seems unlikely that the future direction of The on the ground, but the rhythms of river life rican music. Groups like the Afro-funky Super beach erosion on the Atlantic Coast, caused
Gambia will change dramatically, as Yahya are calmer and more dignified. Eagles and singer Labah Sosse had a huge by illegal sand mining. The Gambias fishing
Jammeh was sworn in as president for another impact in The Gambia, Senegal and beyond. villages also face dwindling stocks as a result
five years after defeating his main rival Ous- PEOPLE Today The Gambias music scene is mainly of overfishing, while deforestation plagues the
sainou Daboe. With around 115 people per sq km, The Gam- dominated by Senegalese artists and Jamaican upcountry regions.
bia has one of the highest population densities reggae. Renowned local musicians include
CULTURE in Africa. The strongest concentration of people the kora-playing brothers Pa Bobo and Tata FOOD & DRINK
Holiday brochures like to describe The is around the urbanised zones at the Atlantic Dindin Jobarteh, singer Jelibah Kuyateh and National dishes include domodah (rice with
Gambia as the Smiling Coast, a welcom- Coast, the area many people migrate to from the reggae artists such as the Dancehall Masters groundnut sauce) and benechin (rice cooked
ing gateway to Africa, where local culture is upcountry towns to try and make a living from and Rebellion the Recaller. in tomato, fish and vegetable sauce).
THE GAMBIA 318 B A N J U L O r i e n t a t i o n Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com B A N J U L 319

THE GAMBIA
JulBrew, the local beer, is a refreshing SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES BANJUL 0
0 0.5 miles
1 km

beverage. Local palm wine and various fire- Since its creation in the mid-19th century,
waters (made from distilled sugar cane or Albert Market (Russell St), an area of frenzied A
12
B C D
rice) are also available, especially in the up- buying, bartering and bargaining, has been
To Bacchius Beach Bar (3km);
country areas. For a nonalcoholic drink, try Banjuls hub of activity. From shimmering Denton Bridge (3km); Palm Grove M
ua ATLANTIC
Hotel (3km); Bakau (7km); mm
any of the local juices from bissap (made from fabrics and false plaits to tourist-tempting 1 Serekunda (15km); Banjul 21
2
ar
al
OCEAN
International Airport (30km) Ga
sorrel), to bouyi (made from the fruits of the souvenirs at the Craft Market, you can find al- dh

St
afi

ang
16 J
baobab tree). most anything here and then some. uly
Av
e

Ny
Ta
fsi 22
Tucked away in an ancient Portuguese build- r D

eh

Dr

mm
Ou em

BANJUL
sm b
ing, the St Josephs Adult Education & Skills Centre a

Nja
An a n N do 8
J This Area

ba
to en w
(%4228836; [email protected]; Ecowas Ave; h9am-2pm um g

Sam
St Strictly
St

Rd
Da an St
wu Fa Out of Bounds
Mon-Thu, to noon Fri) offers tree tours and sells beau- r al en
Ke

Cole
Ga St
ye jie State
pop 50,000 tiful craftwork at reasonable prices. St an
N
House

ace
Ta 1
fsi sm 14

Rd
Its hard to imagine a more unlikely, more Arch 22 (July 22 Dr; admission US$1.25; h9am-11pm), a Ou

Wall
r Main Entrance
W to Albert Market

e
all 26

squ
y
consistently ignored capital city than the tiny massive, 36m-high gateway built to celebrate the 2 Jo

e
Tc
Mo
of
St 13
seaport of Banjul. Yet despite the shadow of military coup of 22 July 1994, grants excellent

jie
Am Fountain

N
Jac ie 11

re
S a
neglect that haunts its sand-blown streets, views. Theres also a cosy caf, souvenir shop k C rr July 22 Sq

er
St

Pi
Jer J allo h ow 22

Ru
em w St War
Banjul is truly worth a visit. Its colourful mar- and a small museum about the coup dtat.

ss
iah Jall 6

el
Alle Sa ow Memorial

l
n S garr St sS
t 27

St
kets and hectic harbour show urban Africa The National Museum (July 22 Dr; admission US$1;

J. R
t Job
e S wli Freedom
Fo

. Fo
Alh t er Lane
at its busy best, while the old museum and h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri & Sat) has some dog- assa s t
St

rste
Ma

Reb
n N 20
dur jie 3

r S
7
yN

ecc
e S St
fading colonial structures are imbued with eared, dated exhibits that are worth a look. t err

t
a S
le
Mb Co St Nelson Ma

av
ndela St
a sense of history that The Gambias plush St Ma
m liam er

age
siru
il rst

W Fo St 29
Tap v
SLEEPING Re

St
seaside resorts lack. Alp
ha
nn
a h
Bl
a i n October 17
Roundabout 24
18 19
Ha
Ferry Guesthouse (Amis Guesthouse; %4222028; 28 3 n e

Re 23
10
ORIENTATION Liberation St; s/d/tr US$12.50/18/22; a) This simple Abd
ou
Wa
lly
Davidso
n Carro
l St
4

The July 22 Sq is the centre of town. From guesthouse above a busy shop is great for Mb

n St
Bah St
ye
St
here, several main streets run south, including people-watching and the best budget bet. Sin-

Liberatio
Marma
Serign Sil
Russell St, which leads past the bustling Albert gle room prices double if you want air-con. 15

lah St

Old
Market into Liberation St. West of the October Carlton Hotel (%4228670; fax 4227214; 25 July 22 Dr; Town 9

St
Tanbi Wetland

17 Roundabout is the old part of Banjul a s/d US$18/20, with air-con US$28/30; a) This is a little 5

a Jallow
Complex Imam La
min Ba h St
maze of narrow streets and ramshackle houses more upmarket, with luxuries like running

Stddard

e
Ma Cumb
rarely visited by tourists. water and indoor toilets.

Ecowas Av
OAU Blvd
Daniel Go
Palm Grove Hotel (%4201620; www.gambia-palm 4

INFORMATION grovehotel.co.uk; s/d incl breakfast US$41/66; as) Tafsir Ebou
Samba St
17

Banjul Pharmacy (%4227470; h9am-8.30pm) About 3km from Banjul towards Serekunda, 28 To Barra
(5km)
Tafsir Balla
Across the road from the hospital. this upmarket hotel attracts with a personal Joof St
25
Kan
Gamtel Internet Caf (July 22 Dr; per hr US$1; atmosphere, a decent swimming beach and kuj
eri
Rd
h8am-midnight) Internet access. plenty of activities on offer.
IBC Bank (%4428145; Liberation St) Changes travellers Cherno Ada
ma Bah St

cheques and has an ATM that accepts Visa cards. EATING & DRINKING
Main post office (Russell St; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) Banjul is hardly a culinary haven, offering lit- Bro
wn
Has telephone facilities next door. tle beyond fast-food joints. Around the north 5 INFORMATION
Banjul Pharmacy..........................1 C2
St
Quantumnet (Nelson Mandela St; per hr US$1; h9am- end of Liberation St and Albert Market, youll Gamtel Internet Caf....................2 B1
10pm) Internet access. find several cheap chop shops and streets stalls Guinean Consulate.......................3
IBC Bank......................................4
C3
D3
Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital (%4228223; July where plates of rice and sauce start at about Immigration Office......................5 C4
Main Post Office..........................6 D2
22 Dr) The Gambias main hospital has an A&E Depart- US$0.80. Quantumnet................................7 D3 SLEEPING
ment, but facilities arent great. Mandela Alles Klar Fast Food (%4223455; Ecowas Royal Victoria Teaching Hospital..8 C1 Carlton Hotel..............................16 B1
Sierra Leone High Commission.....9 C4 Ferry Guesthouse.......................17 D4
Standard Chartered Bank (%4222081; Ecowas Ave) Ave; snacks from US$1.50) This is not only The Gam- Standard Chartered Bank...........10 D3 TRANSPORT
Changes travellers cheques and has an ATM that accepts bias snack bar with the prettiest name, it also EATING Air Guine.................................23 C3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ali Baba Snack Bar..................... 18 D3 Air Sngal International............ 24 D3
Visa cards. serves great fish and chips. Albert Market............................ 11 D2 King of Shwarma Caf ..............19 D3 Ferry to Barra.............................25 D4
Ali Baba Snack Bar (%4224055; Nelson Mandela St; 6 Arch 22......................................12 A1 Mandela Alles Klar Fast Food.....20 D3 Minibuses to Bakau....................26 C2
Craft Market..............................13 D2 Michel's ....................................21 A1 Minibuses to Serekunda &
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES snacks from US$2, meals US$5-7; h9am-5pm) More than National Museum......................14 C2 Brikama..................................27 C2
The Barra ferry is rife with pickpockets, and just a kebab shop, this place is an institution St Joseph's Adult Education SHOPPING Pirogues to Barra....................... 28 D4
& Skills Centre........................15 D3 Kerewan Sound.........................22 D2 West Coast Airways...................29 C3
tourists are easy prey at the ferry terminals with a deserved reputation for its shwarmas
and at Albert Market. and felafel.
THE GAMBIA 320 S E R E K U N D A & T H E AT L A N T I C C OA S T O r i e n t a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S E R E K U N D A & T H E AT L A N T I C C OA S T D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 321

THE GAMBIA
Michels (%4223108; 29 July 22 Dr; meals US$5-10; cost about US$1, after bargaining. A pri- Stop Steps Pharmacy (%4371344; Serekunda; SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
h8am-11pm) A classy place thats excellent vate taxi from Banjul to Bakau, Serekunda, h9am-10pm Mon-Sat) One of the best-stocked pharmacy In Bakau, the Botanic Gardens (%7774482; Atlan-
from the breakfast menu all the way to after- Fajara, Kotu or Kololi costs around US$5.50 chains around, with branches all along the coast. tic Rd, Bakau; adult/child US$1.80/free; h8am-4pm) are
dinner drinks. to US$7. Westfield Clinic (%4398448; Serekunda) Another a peaceful place that offers some shade in
King of Shwarma Caf (%4229799; Nelson Mandela option, at Westfield Junction. calm surroundings, and good bird-spotting
St; meals US$5-10; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) This friendly
place serves excellent Lebanese food, and SEREKUNDA & THE Money
chances.
You can get up close and personal with a
whats even better, large glasses of freshly
pressed juice.
Bacchius Beach Bar (%4227948; meals US$5-15)
ATLANTIC COAST The main banks, Standard Chartered, Trust
Bank and IBC have branches with Visa-loving
ATMs all across the resort zone (see p327 for
croc at the Kachikaly Crocodile Pool (Bakau village;
admission US$1; h9am-6pm), a sacred site for the
local people and perhaps for tourists, too,
Next to the Palm Grove Hotel, this busy little pop 260,000 standard opening hours). There are also a few judging by their numbers.
beach bar is a great place to sip a drink and Chaotic, splitting-at-the-seams Serekunda is exchange bureaus scattered around the busy Bijilo Forest Park (admission US$1; h8am-6pm) is
dig into a platter of grilled fish. the nations largest urban centre, and appears tourist miles, some part of supermarkets, but a small nature reserve on the Atlantic Coast
to consist of one big, busy market. The nearby youre unlikely to get a better rate. The Gam- at Kololi. The 4.5km nature trail is great for
SHOPPING Atlantic Coast resorts of Bakau, Fajara, Kotu bia Experience Office next to the Senegambia spotting monkeys and birds.
In Banjul, the best place to go shopping is Albert Strand and Kololi are where the sunnsea Hotel gives cash advances on Mastercards The Sportsfishing Centre (%7765765; Denton
Market (p318). Near the main entrance, youll tourists flock. If you can manage to dodge the for a fee. Bridge) is the best place to arrange fishing and
also find Kerewan Sound (Russell St), The Gambias persistent ganja peddlers and beach bumsters Standard Chartered Bank Bakau (%4495046); pirogue excursions. Various companies are
best place to buy CDs and cassettes. (touts and hustlers), this is a great place to Serekunda (%4396102; Kairaba Ave) based there, including the Watersports Centre
spend long days on the beach and late nights Trust Bank Bakau (%4495486); Kololi (%4465303; (%7765765; Denton Bridge), which can organise
GETTING THERE & AWAY on the dance floor. Badala Park Way, near Senegambia) your jet-skiing, parasailing, windsurfing or
For information on travelling to/from Banjul catamaran trips.
by air, see p329. ORIENTATION Post & Telephone The Gambias beaches suffer badly from
Ferries (%4228205; Liberation St; passengers D10, cars Running northsouth, Bakau, Fajara, Kotu The main post office is located about half- erosion. The best ones are in Fajara and Kotu.
US$5-7) travel between Banjul and Barra, on the Strand and Kololi are a string of former fish- way between Fajara and Serekunda, off Kai- Note that currents can be very strong.
northern bank of the river. They normally run ing villages that have now merged into one raba Ave. There are plenty of Gamtel offices If drumming appeals more than swimming,
every one to two hours from 7am until 7pm big tourist centre. Serekunda, a couple of kilo- and private telecentres in Bakau, Kololi and try Batafon Arts (%in UK 01273 605791, in Gambia
and take one hour, though delays and can- metres inland, is a real city, and Westfield Serekunda. 4392517; www.batafonarts.co.uk; Kairaba Ave, Serekunda)
cellations are frequent. Small, overcrowded Junction is the hub of its wheel. for excellent African percussion and dance
pirogues also make the crossing (US$2 per Tourist Information workshops.
person or US$20 if you hire the whole boat). INFORMATION Tropical Tour & Souvenirs (%4460536;
Minibuses and Mercedes buses to Brikama Bookshops [email protected]; Kairaba Hotel, Senegambia) One SLEEPING
and upcountry towns, and to places in south- Timbooktoo (%4494345; cnr Kairaba Ave & Garba of the best sources of information in the absence of an Budget
ern Senegal, all go from Serekunda garage. For Jahumpa Rd, Fajara; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-1pm & official tourist information service. Sukuta Camping (%9917786; www.campingsukuta.de;
details, see p329. 3-7pm Fri, 10am-8pm Sat) The best place for international Sukuta; camping per person US$3.60, per vehicle US$0.50,
papers. Travel Agencies s/d US$8.50/12.20, d with bathroom US$16.60; pc)
GETTING AROUND Most travel agencies are on Kairaba Ave. This well-organised camping site and hostel
To/From the Airport Cultural Centres Gambia River Experience (%4494360; southwest of Serekunda is run by experienced
A green tourist taxi from Banjul Interna- Alliance Franco-Gambienne (%4375418; www.alli [email protected]; www.gambiariver.com; off overlanders.
tional Airport to Banjul costs around US$10 ancefrance.gm; Kairaba Ave, Serekunda; h9.30am-5pm Kairaba Ave, Fajara) Kanifeng YMCA (%4392647; www.ymca.gm; Fajara;
to US$15. With yellow taxis, the price you pay Mon-Fri) Has regular concerts, films and exhibitions, and a Gambia Tours (%446260; www.gambiatours.gm; off B&B US$6.25) This huge building has just about
depends entirely on your haggling skills; ex- good, cheap restaurant (meals from US$1). Coastal Rd, south of Koloi) An independent tour operator passable rooms for the budget-bound.
pect to pay US$5.50 to US$7 to Banjul. There with a good catalogue of excursions. Jabo Guesthouse (%4494906, 7777082; 9 Old Cape Rd,
is no airport bus. Internet Access Olympic Travel (%497204; Garba Jahumpa Rd) A good Bakau; d US$18) This down-to-earth guesthouse
There are now dozens of cybercafs in this place for booking tickets. has large, clean rooms, some featuring self-
Minibus & Shared Taxi area, especially along Kairaba Ave. catering facilities.
From Banjul, minibuses to Bakau leave from Gamtel Kololi (%4377878; Senegambia Strip; h9am- DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Teranga Suites (%4461961; s/d/ste US$18/27/36;
the stand opposite the Shell station on July 11pm); Serekunda (Westfield Junction; h8am-11pm) Crime rates in Serekunda are low; however, sc) This jewel of a guesthouse off Kololi
22 Dr. Minibuses to Serekunda and Brikama Quantumnet (%4494514; Kairaba Ave; h8.30am- tourists, and especially women, will have to Rd has airy rooms and large self-catering
leave from a roadside corner opposite July 22 10pm) deal with the constant hustling by bumsters. suites with bright wooden dcor.
Sq. See p329 for more information. Be firm but polite when you decline any un- Bakau Lodge (%/fax 4496103; Bakau; d from US$23;
Medical Services wanted offers, and to be safe, rely on the serv- s) Located in the heart of the Bakau hood,
Private Taxi Medical Research Council (MRC; %4495446; Fajara) ices of the official tourist guides (OTGs) based the small Bakau Lodge pleasantly surprises
In a taxi to yourself (known as a town trip), If you find yourself with a potentially serious illness, head outside Kairaba Hotel. Women should always with spotless, two-room bungalows set around
a short ride across Banjul city centre will for this British-run clinic, off Atlantic Rd. avoid going to beaches on their own. a swimming pool.
THE GAMBIA 322 S E R E K U N D A & T H E AT L A N T I C C OA S T A t l a n t i c C o a s t R e s o r t s & S e re k u n d a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com S E R E K U N D A & T H E AT L A N T I C C OA S T E a t i n g 323

THE GAMBIA
ATLANTIC COAST RESORTS & SEREKUNDA 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Midrange
Leybato (%4497186; www.leybato.abc.gm; Fajara Beach;
A B C D E F d US$30, with kitchen US$43) This cosy guesthouse
INFORMATION EATING SHOPPING has acceptable rooms stunningly located at a
Alliance Franco-Gambienne..........1 E5 Ali Baba's................................... 33 A6 African Living Art Centre........... 55 D3
British High Commission..............2 C3 Atlantic Bar & Restaurant...........34 E2 Bakau Market.............................56 E2 calm stretch of beach.
1 Gambia Experience Office........(see 27) Butcher's Shop...........................35 C3 Salam Batik................................ 57 D6
A T L A N T I C 1 Fajara Guesthouse (%4496122; fax 4494365; Fajara;
Gamtel Office...............................3 E5 Chapman's.................................36 E2 Serekunda Market..................... 58 D6
Gamtel Office..............................4 A6 Clay Oven................................. 37 D3 Village Gallery & Restaurant.......59 B5 r incl breakfast US$23 to US$34; ac) A leafy court-
O C E A N
Gamtel Office..........................(see 13) Come Inn.................................. 38 D5
Some Minor Roads yard and welcoming lounge give it character.
Guinea-Bissau Embassy............(see 10) Eddie's Bar & Restaurant............39 C3 TRANSPORT
IBC Bank Serekunda.....................5 E6 Harry's Supermarket.................. 40 D4 AB Rent-A-Car.........................(see 27)
Not Depicted Rooms are basic but clean, and some are big
Mauritanian Consulate................ 6 A6
Medical Research Council............7 D3
Kairaba Supermarket..................41 D5
Luigi's Italian Restaurant............42 A5
Bellview Airlines..........................60 E5
Boketh Total Station.................. 61 D6
enough to house couples with children.
Olympic Travel........................(see 12) Mama's Restaurant....................43 C3 Bus & Taxi Stop......................... 62 D6 Cape Point Safari Garden Hotel (%4495887; www.gamspirit
Post Office...................................8 E5
Quantumnet............................(see 12)
Pepper's Tropical Restaurant....(see 54)
Safe Way Afra King................... 44 D5
Gambia River Experience........... 63 D3
Green Taxi Rank.........................64 B5
.com; Fajara; s/d incl breakfast US$34/57; as) Pretty
rooms, a good restaurant, and exceptionally

Senegalese High Commission...... 9 D4 Sailor's Beach Bar.......................45 C4 Hertz........................................(see 61)
Standard Chartered Bank Bakau..10 E2 St Mary's Food & Wine..............46 F2 Minibuses to Banjul................... 65 D6
Standard Chartered Bank Solomon's Beach Bar................(see 53) Minibuses to Banjul....................66 E5
Craft welcoming management have turned this into
2 Market 36 2

46
Serekunda..............................11 E5 Yok..........................................(see 55) Minibuses to Banjul & Serekunda..67 E2 Catholic 19
a travellers favourite.
Stop Steps Pharmacy...............(see 41) Youth Monument Bar & Shared Taxis to Fajara & Bakau...68 E5
Timbooktoo............................... 12 D3 Restaurant..............................47 E5 Slok Air Airlines.......................... 69 D4 Jetty
Church Bakau Roc Heights Lodge (%4495428; www.rocheights

30
Tropical Tour & Souvenirs........(see 27) SN Brussels................................ 70 A5
67 lodge.com; Samba Breku Rd, Bakau; s/d US$36/54; ac)

ek ba
Rd
Trust Bank Bakau........................13 E2 DRINKING Taxi Stand..................................71 E2 34

Br am
Ol This stunning three-storey villa sits in a quiet

u
10 56 21

S
Trust Bank Kololi........................ 14 A6 Chapman's...............................(see 36) Tippa Garage...........................(see 61) d

13 71 52 Ca
US Embassy............................... 15 D4 Come Inn.................................(see 38) 26 pe
Rd
garden, and has stylish rooms and apartments
Westfield Clinic..........................16 E5 Weezo's.....................................48 C3
with fully equipped kitchen.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ENTERTAINMENT 20 Bakotu Hotel (%4465555; fax 4465959; Kotu Beach;
Batafon Arts...............................17 D5 Destiny......................................49 A5 Rd Kachikaly
Bijilo Forest Park Headquarters...18 A6 Jazziz......................................... 50 A5 ntic Crocodile Pool s/d US$45/54; as) Compared to its resort

Fajara Atla
Beach
Botanic Gardens.........................19
Kachikaly Crocodile Pool.............20
E2
F3
Jokko.........................................51
Lama Lama.................................52
E6
E2
2
neighbours, this is pleasantly understated,
3 7 3 and has comfy terrace apartments in a pleas-

Teranga Beach Club...................53 A5 37
43 d)
SLEEPING Waaw........................................ 54 A6 29 48 nR ant garden.
Bakau Lodge...............................21 E2 35
55
w Tow
25 Ne
d(

Bakotu Hotel..............................22 C4 Kotu 24 aR 63
12 mp
Coconut Residence.................... 23
Fajara Guesthouse......................24
A6
C3
Beach 39
rb a Ja
hu
Independence Top End
31 Ga
Coconut Residence (%4463377; info@coconutresidence

Francisco's Hotel........................25 C3 Stadium
Jabo Guesthouse........................26 F2 45 Saitm
atty
Rd .com; Badala Park Way; ste from US$190; as) At this
Ka

Kairaba Hotel.............................27 A6 (Cap

ira

e Rd
Kanifeng YMCA.........................28 E4 ) classy five-star palace, all amenities and ser-
ba

Fajara
Leybato......................................29 C3 Golf Club Fajara
Av

vices come wrapped in sophisticated chic, and

e

Roc Height's Lodge....................30 F2

(Pi

22
Safari Garden Hotel...................31 C3 character flavours the air of the lush tropical
pe

40
lin

4 Teranga Suites...........................32 B5 Kotu Stream 4 gardens and the carefully designed rooms.
e

To Denton Bridge (11km);

Rd

69 Sportsfishing Centre (11km);

Kairaba Hotel (%4462940; www.kairabahotel.com;
)

Kotu 15
Point Kotu Watersports Centre (11km);
Banjul (14km)
W
ay Mosque 28 Senegambia; s/d US$155/190; pais) This
rk
Bada
la Pa
9
government-owned hotel is the kind of vast,
Footbridge labyrinthine, anything-can-be-arranged place

Jim
pe
53
you might be tempted not to leave during
Pa

x
lm

Rd
aR

Kanifeng
42 41 your whole holiday.
im

8
aR

38
d

50 17 )
64 Rd
ta
Kololi
Su
ku EATING
Ko

Point 44 60 (
5 Mannjai Kunda ve 5
lol

A There are several cheap eateries in Kololi

i R

32 1 o be
y

rJ
d
a

ye around the market and taxi station entrance,

k W

Football
Sa
Mosque Rd

Kololi
Field 11 3
and several others scattered through the
Par

49 68
70 Westfield
ala

59 Serekunda 47
Junction streets of Serekunda. For supermarkets in
Bad

66
Senegambia 16 Fajara, head for Kairaba Ave where theres
Hotel 14 51
4 5 plenty of choice. To buy groceries in Bakau, go
27 Sene
gam
bia S 65 to St Marys Food & Wine (Cape Point), Bakau market

trip 62
33
or any of the small Bakau supermarkets.
54 6 58
Kombo Silla

6 6 Budget
18
Youth Monument Bar & Restaurant (Westfield Junction,
23 61 Rd
kuta Serekunda; meals around D100; hlunch & dinner) This is
h

Su 57
Dr

Bijilo Forest To Gambia Tours (1km); To Abuko Nature Reserve (7km);

Park Tanji (8km); Sanyang To Sukuta Camping (1.5km); Banjul International Airport a local favourite thanks to cheap food and
(19km); Gunjur (28km) Sukuta (2km) (15km); Brikama (21km)
football matches on screen.
THE GAMBIA 324 S E R E K U N D A & T H E AT L A N T I C C OA S T D r i n k i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D B A N J U L & S E R E K U N D A A b u k o N a t u re R e s e r v e 325

THE GAMBIA
Safe Way Afra King (Mosque Rd, Serekunda; dishes Luigis Italian Restaurant (%4460280; Palma Rima have to weave your way through crowds, cars Tanji River Bird Reserve (%9919219; admission
CFA50-150; h5pm-midnight) Good for afra (grill Rd, Kololi; dishes US$7-10; hlunch & dinner; i) Luigi and dodge the ambulant traders. All part of US$1.10, guided walks US$7; h8am-6pm), 3km north
food), fufu (a staple along the southern coast knows his job: the pasta here is al dente and pure urban Gambian fun. of Tanji village, is in an area of lagoons, dunes,
of West Africa made with fermented cassava, the pizzas crisp. dry woodland and coastal scrub that attracts an
yams, plantain or manioc which is cooked and Yok (%4495131; African Living Arts Centre, Fajara; meals GETTING THERE & AWAY excellent range of birds. It is also an important
pured) and other African dishes. around US$9; hlunch & dinner) Enjoy great cocktails Bush taxis and minibuses for most destina- breeding area for turtles and Caspian terns.
Atlantic Bar & Restaurant (%4494083; Atlantic Rd, and excellent Singaporean, Thai and Chinese tions in The Gambia leave from the garage About 2km south of the village is the Tanji
Bakau; dishes from US$2; hlunch & dinner) This place fusion-cuisine to the gentle flow of waterfalls (bus and taxi stop) in Serekunda. Destinations Village Museum (%9926618; [email protected]; adult/child
serves decent Gambian meals and snacks. and the rustling of palm trees. include Brikama (US$0.50, one hour), Soma US$3.50/1; h9am-5pm), with excellent displays
Eddies Bar & Restaurant (Fajara; dishes US$2.50; (US$2, four hours) and Sanyang (US$0.60, 30 of traditional artefacts, including musical in-
h8am-2am) This tiny spot serves excellent DRINKING minutes). For southern destinations including struments, and an artisans corner. Theres a
afra and other Gambian dishes. All the major hotels have bars and most res- Gunjur (US$1, 45 minutes) try also the Tippa simple hostel (r per person US$9) and restaurant.
Mamas Restaurant (cnr Atlantic Rd & Kairaba Ave, taurants turn the lights down and the music Garage near the Shell Station in Serekunda. The most attractive hotel is the Paradise
Fajara; dishes around US$3.60; h11am-10pm Tue-Sun) up at night. Inn Lodge (%8800209; www.paradiseinngarden.com; r
This vibrant place is as much renowned for its Chapmans (%4495252; Atlantic Rd, Bakau; h11am- GETTING AROUND per person incl breakfast US$24), which is stunningly
delicious buffet dinners as for the raw charm 10pm Thu-Tue) The best beer option. To/From the Airport located amid mangroves and forest, and runs
of Mama the manager. Weezos (Atlantic Rd, Fajara; h11am-3am) The A green tourist taxi from Banjul International birding excursions and music courses. A little
Come Inn (%4391464; Fajara; meals US$4-7; h10am- cocktails here taste sweeter with every pass- Airport to Serekunda is US$10, and to any further south in Tujering, the rootsy Bendula
2am) For a hearty European meal, a good ing hour. Atlantic Coast resort US$15. Yellow taxis cost Lodge (%7717481; www.bendula.com; s/d US$18/24) has
draught beer and a solid dose of local gossip, Come Inn (%4391464; Kairaba Ave; h10am-2am) A about US$5, but depend on negotiation. accommodation in simple huts placed near a
theres no better place than this German-style proper, German-style beer house. lush tropical forest and the beach.
beer garden. Taxi
Solomons Beach Bar (%4460716; Palma Rima Rd, ENTERTAINMENT Shared taxis around the Atlantic resorts and SANYANG & GUNJUR
Kololi; meals US$4-8; h10am-midnight) At the north- Teranga Beach Club (%9982669; abdulkabirr@hotmail Banjul cost US$0.20. You just hail them. Twenty kilometres south of Serekunda, San-
ern end of Kololi beach, this cute round house .com; Palma Rima Rd, Kololi; h10am-2am) This vast place, You can hire yellow taxis for private trips. A yang is a much-loved day-trip destination
with a light reggae feel does great grill food. run by a renowned Gambian musician, holds town trip any stretch between Bakau, Fajara, for Gambians. Its got a pretty beach, where
occasional jazz afternoons and concerts. Kololi and Kotu is usually charged at US$1. bars, such as the excellent Rainbow Beach Bar
Midrange & Top End Jazziz (%4462175; Palma Rima Rd, Kololi h10pm- Hiring a taxi for a day around the Atlantic re- (%9827790; dishes US$5-20) tempt with a mouth-
Sailors Beach Bar (%4464078; Kotu; meals US$5; late) A colourful salsa place with a vibrant sorts and Banjul should cost around US$35 to watering selection of fresh seafood dishes. The
h9am-midnight) This is one of the best beach atmosphere. US$50. The green tourist taxis that are usually Kobokoto Lodge (%9984838; www.salla.se/kkl; r per
bars along the coast, serving excellent grilled Lama Lama (%4494747; Atlantic Rd, Bakau) Bakaus parked around the larger hotels usually charge person US$9) has simple but attractive rooms.
barracuda. hottest club. two to three times the rate of yellow taxis. Another 10km along the coast lies the
Chapmans (%4495252; Atlantic Rd, Bakau Beach; Waaw (%4460668; Senegambia) The Gambias tranquil fishing village of Gunjur, where the
meals around US$5-US$9; h11am-10pm Thu-Tue) This
popular pub-cum-restaurant in Bakau has a
biggest dancehall DJ mixes at this place in
Kololi on a Thursday night. AROUND BANJUL & holiday hype subsides and real life makes its
entrance. This is one of The Gambias largest
mixed menu with a focus on European food
and cheap beer.
Peppers Tropical Restaurant (%4464792; Senegam-
Jokko (Westfield Junction) This open-air place in
Serekunda is a raucous local affair
Destiny (off Badala Park Way, Kololi) A sparkling
SEREKUNDA fishing centres, so the beach is all pirogues,
catch and nets. The African Lodge (%4486143; fax
4486026; r per person incl breakfast US$14), in the heart of
bia Strip, Kololi; meals around US$5-10; h24hr) This tiny disco heaven that draws glittering crowds on ABUKO NATURE RESERVE Gunjur village, is perfect for a feel of real life
place serves good Caribbean and Gambian weekends. Abuko Nature Reserve (%7782633; www.darwingambia away from the tourist zones. The Footsteps Eco
food to the sounds of live salsa. .gm; admission US$1.10; h8am-7pm) is one of Africas Lodge (%7706830; www.natureswaygambia.com; camp
Butchers Shop (%4495069; www.thebutchersshop SHOPPING tiniest wildlife reserves, but boasts an amazing sites US$9, d US$63) is one of The Gambias most
gambia.com; 130 Kairaba Ave, Fajara; dishes US$6-10; African Living Art Centre (%4495131; Garba Jahumpa variety of vegetation and animals. Its par- fully developed ecolodges, from the compost
h8am-11pm) Everything at this stylish Mo- Rd, Fajara) A fairy-tale place, great to rummage ticularly good for bird-watchers. Around 250 toilets, solar power, and freshwater pool to
roccan restaurant from the rich local juices for quality artworks and original souvenirs. species have been recorded here, and many are the extensive vegetable garden.
to flavour-dripping three-course dinners is Salam Batik (Amadou Jallow %4395103, Sheikh Tijan easily spotted from well-placed hides.
rounded off to tasty perfection. Dont miss
Sunday brunch (US$7) from 10am to 4pm.
Ali Babas (%4461030; Senegambia Strip, Kololi; meals
Secka %982 0125; [email protected];
Serekunda Market, Serekunda) The place to get your
personalised clothes dyed and tailored.
To get here, take a private yellow taxi
(around US$14) or a minibus headed for Bri-
kama from Banjul or Serekunda (US$0.35).
LOWER GAMBIA RIVER
around US$7; h11am-2am) Famous Ali Babas Village Gallery & Restaurant (%4463646; h10am- The reserve is signposted. JUFUREH & JAMES ISLAND
serves quality snacks and European cuisine. midnight) For quality contemporary paintings. When Alex Haley, the American author of
Theres occasional live music. Serekunda market (cnr Sukuta & Mosque Rds; h6am- TANJI Roots, traced his origins to Jufureh, the tiny
Clay Oven (%4496600; Fajara; dishes US$7; h7-11pm) 5pm) The African real deal, where you find just The village of Tanji is a tranquil spot, perfect village quickly turned into a favourite tour-
For Indian food, this peaceful, pretty place is about anything you care to imagine. To reach for a day trip from the hectic Atlantic Coast ist destination. Apart from the Kinteh fam-
one of the best in the whole of West Africa. the sky-high stacks of colourful goods, you resorts. ily, Haleys supposed relatives, theres little
THE GAMBIA 326 U P P E R G A M B I A R I V E R G e o r g e t o w n Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E G A M B I A D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n 327

THE GAMBIA
to see, though a pirogue trip to James Island structure no banks and no hospital. There burial sites constructed about 1200 years ago. limited to basic guesthouses and hotels, with
with its crumbling foundations of its slave is, however, plenty to please those with a weak Each stone weighs several tonnes and is be- the exception of a few luxury lodges.
fort is worth doing. You can stay in the col- spot for birds and history. tween 1m and 2.5m in height.
ourful bungalows of the Kunta Kinte Roots Camp In town, the Central River Division Forestry The hotels in Georgetown have more in- ACTIVITIES
(%9905322; [email protected]; s/d US$18/35) and Project (CRDFP; %5676198; www.crdfp.org), which formation and can arrange excursions here Beach-related activities, such as swimming,
try the renowned African buffet (US$5 per battles against deforestation, is a great place (US$140 for the tour to the national park and water sports and fishing are popular around
person, call in advance). to visit, mainly for its tours along the ecotrails the stone circles). the coast. Upcountry, its all about bird-
To get to Jufureh from Banjul, take an early of various forest parks. watching tours around the national parks
ferry to Barra, dodge the touts and find a bush BASSE SANTA SU and pirogue excursions.
taxi (US$2), or take an organised tour; see Sleeping & Eating Basse Santa Su, commonly called Basse, is
p321 for touring agencies. Jangjang-bureh Camp (%/fax 5676182, 9920618; www The Gambias most easterly town of any size. BUSINESS HOURS
.gambiariver.com; r per person US$7) Beautifully located Though haunted by neglect, Basse Santa Su is Government offices are open from 8am to
BINTANG BOLONG on the north bank, this rustic place has basic the liveliest upcountry settlement. Trust Bank 3pm or 4pm Monday to Thursday, and 8am to
Tucked away among the maze of shrubs lining bungalows with oil lamps in a mazelike gar- and Standard Chartered Bank have branches 12.30pm Friday. Banks, shops and businesses
the shores of the Bintang River is the intimate den. You reach the place by boat from Dream- in Basse, and theres an internet caf. usually open 8.30am to noon and 2.30pm
and ecofriendly Bintang Bolong Lodge (%4488035; bird Camp (%/fax 5676182). The Basse Guesthouse (%5668283; r US$5.30), to 5.30pm Monday to Thursday and 8am to
www.bintang-bolong.com; r per person US$14; s). Huts Baobolong Camp (%5676133; fax 5676120; Owens above a tailor shop, has dingy rooms with noon Friday and Saturday. Restaurants tend
made entirely from local materials sit on stilts St; s/d US$11/14) This leafy camp features well- shared toilets. The only plus: the 1st-floor to serve lunch from around 11am to 2.30pm
in the river; you can leap from your balcony into maintained rooms, friendly staff and the balcony with view across the market. and dinner from 6pm onwards.
a pirogue for a boat tour (per hr US$30). luxury of a generator. Though slightly run-down since the death
Twice a day, theres a bus from Brikama to Bird Safari Camp (%5676108; www.bsc.gm; r with of its former manager (his teenage son has DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Bintang (one hour, US$1). A private taxi costs half-board per person US$35; s) In a secluded spot, now taken over), the Jem Hotel (%5668356; s/d Serious crime is still fairly rare in The Gambia.
around US$65. accommodation is in bungalows or luxury US$10/20) is one of the cleaner Basse options. However, muggings and petty theft do occur,
tents. Bird-watching trips are recommended. The restaurant gets good reviews. particularly around the tourist centres near
KIANG WEST NATIONAL PARK There are few places to eat outside the ho- The best place to stay and eat is Fulladu Camp the coast. Avoid walking around alone after
The mangrove creeks and mud flats, dry tels, though the charming Talamanca Restaurant (%5668743; r per person US$11), on the north bank dark, particularly in areas you dont know
woodland and grassland of Kiang West (admis- (%9921100; Findlay St; meals from US$1.50; hlunch & of the Gambia River, which has accommoda- well. Women in particular should be care-
sion US$1.10, payable at the parkheadquarters in Dumbuntu), dinner) is worth a visit. tion in comfortable bungalows. ful at the beaches, where some readers have
The Gambias largest national park, are home The cultural centre Traditions (%5668533; sul reported instances of sexual assault.
to an extraordinary variety of species, includ- Getting There & Away [email protected];h9am-6pm) exhibits Many visitors complain about the beach
ing bushbabies, baboons, colobus monkeys, MacCarthy Island can be reached by ferry locally made cloth and crafts, has a river-view boys (known as bumsters) who wait outside
warthogs, marsh mongooses and bushbucks. (passenger/car US$0.20/1.80) from either the caf and can also dust of a couple of rooms hotels and offer tourists anything from souve-
Rarely sighted species include hyenas, dol- southern or northern bank of the river. Most for unexpected visitors (US$9). nirs to drugs and sex. Its best to ignore these
phins and crocodiles. Birds are also plentiful, bush taxis turn off the main road between guys completely. They might respond with
with more than 300 species recorded. Soma and Basse Santa Su to drop off passen- Getting There & Away verbal abuse, but its all hot air.
Most people stay at nearby Tendaba Camp gers at the southern ferry ramp; request this There are daily minibuses and bush taxis
(%4541024; [email protected]; bungalows with/without when entering the taxi. between Basse and Georgetown (US$2, one
bathroom US$8.75/8, luxury r US$10), a classic on the hour) and Soma (US$5.30, four hours). A PRACTICALITIES
travellers scene. Accommodation ranges RIVER GAMBIA NATIONAL PARK bush taxi to Vlingara in Senegal costs US$1
from small bungalows to luxury rooms, fully River Gambia National Park (also known (40 minutes). From there, you can get frequent
Africa Today (Afro Media) has good
equipped with a river-edge veranda and TV. as Baboon Island) consists off five islands connections to Tambacounda via Vlingara in political and economic news, plus busi-
in the Gambia River. Its home to a primate Senegal (see p329). Even further afield, a Peu- ness, sport and tourism.

UPPER GAMBIA RIVER protection project that helps once-captured

chimpanzees to live in the wild again. Visi-
tors are not allowed to land on the islands,
geot taxi goes more or less daily (passengers
depending) to Lab in northern Guinea. The
fare is US$55 and the trip takes 24 hours, or

Focus on Africa (BBC) has excellent news
stories, accessible reports and a concise
run down of recent political events.
GEORGETOWN but touring them by boat is pleasant enough. much, much longer.
West Africa (West Africa Publishing) is a
Georgetown (Jangjang-bureh) is a sleepy, Boat trips can be arranged by all Georgetown long-standing, respected weekly with a
crumbling former colonial administrative
centre, and a fine place to relax or venture
for day trips into the surrounding area. It is
hotels (around US$125 per pirogue), or you
can go to Kuntaur and hire a pirogue (around
US$10 for a four-hour trip).
THE GAMBIA DIRECTORY focus on political and economic news.

The electricity supply in The Gambia is
situated on the northern edge of MacCarthy ACCOMMODATION 220V. Plugs either have two round pins,
Island, a 10km-long and 2.5km-wide island WASSU STONE CIRCLES At the Atlantic Coast resorts of Bakau, Fajara, as those in continental Europe, or three
in the Gambia River, about 300km upstream About 25km northwest of Georgetown near Kotu Strand and Kololi the choice of accommo- square pins, as used in Britain.
from Banjul. It has ferry links to both river- the town of Kuntaur are the Wassu Stone Circles dation ranges from simple hostels to five-star
The Gambia uses the metric system.
banks, but there is little in terms of infra- (admission D30), which archaeologists believe are hotels. Upcountry, your options are normally
THE GAMBIA 328 T H E G A M B I A D I R E C T O R Y E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N T H E G A M B I A G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 329

THE GAMBIA
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES MONEY Visas for Onward Travel (US$2), where Dakar-bound bush taxis and
The Gambia Embassies & Consulates The local currency dalasi (D) has for years Most embassies are open from 9am to 1pm minibuses (US$7 to US$10, six hours) are
France (%01 42 94 09 30; 117 Rue Saint-Lazare, 75008 suffered a dramatic decrease in value, and and 2pm to 4pm weekdays. You usually need normally waiting.
Paris) inflation continues, though its at 8% less dra- two photos to apply for an onward visa. Con- If youre heading for southern Senegal,
Germany (%030-892 31 21; fax 030 891 14 01; matic than in the early noughties. tact the relevant embassy (opposite) for more minibuses and bush taxis leave frequently
Kurfurstendamm 103, Berlin) There are no restrictions on its import or information. from Serekunda garage. The five-hour trip
Guinea-Bissau (%0203928; Av de 14 Novembro, Bis- export, but the moneys useless outside The Guinea Three-month, single-entry visas are issued for to Ziguinchor is about US$8 and you have to
sau) Located 1km northwest of Mercado de Bandim. Gambia. US$40 the same day if you come in the morning. change vehicles at the border. Transport also
Nigeria (%09-523 8545; Plot 25, Ontario Crescent, 5085 Its best to change money at banks or ex- Guinea-Bissau One-month, single-entry visas are issued goes from Brikama to Ziguinchor.
Wuse, Abuja) change bureaus. Both offer about the same for US$10, and two-month visas are US$12; the process At the far-eastern tip of The Gambia, bush
Senegal (%821 4476; 11 Rue de Thiong, Dakar) rate. Avoid changing on the black market. takes a few hours. taxis run from Basse Santa Su to Vlingara
Sierra Leone (%225191; 6 Wilberforce St, Freetown) A serious government crackdown on illegal Mali The consulate here does not issue tourist visas. For (US$2, 45 minutes, 27km), and from there
UK (%020-7937 6316; 57 Kensington Court, London moneychangers means that you dont only visas, the closest embassy is in Dakar, Senegal. bush taxis go to Tambacounda for US$3 (three
W8 5DH) risk getting ripped off, but might also get into Mauritania One-month visas are issued for about US$7 hours).
USA (%0202-785 1399; [email protected]; Suite trouble with the police. in 24 hours.
1000, 1155 15th St NW, Washington, DC, 20005) If youve come in from Senegal and have no Senegal One-month visas take 24 hours to issue and GETTING AROUND
dalasi, CFA francs are widely accepted. cost US$14. Boat
Embassies & Consulates in The Gambia In Banjul and around the coastal resorts Gambia River Experience (Map pp322-3; %4494360; www
Guinea (Map p319; %4226862; 78A Daniel Goddard you can find several banks with ATMs that VOLUNTEERING .gambiariver.com), off Kairaba Ave, does trips
St, Banjul) accept Visa cards (the withdrawal limit is The biodiversity research and education cen- from Denton Bridge near Banjul to Lamin
Guinea-Bissau (Map pp322-3; %4494854; Atlantic usually D2000). Its best to change before tre Makasutu Wildlife Trust (%7782633; www.darwin Lodge and all the way up to Georgetown.
Rd, Bakau) heading upcountry, where exchange facili- gambia.gm), based at Abuko Nature Reserve, Trips are either done by motorised pirogue
Mauritania (Map pp322-3; %4461086) Opposite Tafbel ties are rare. takes on volunteers and can provide them or large boat. One of their offers includes
Maisonettes, Fajara. with accommodation. a week-long cruise along the river. Hidden
Senegal (Map pp322-3; %4373752) Off Kairaba Ave. TELEPHONE Gambia (%in UK 01527-576239; www.hiddengambia.com)
Sierra Leone (Map p319; %4228206; 67 Daniel God-
dard St, Banjul)
The telephone system is handled by Gam-
tel, which has offices and kiosks in Banjul, TRANSPORT IN THE also has an excellent set of boat excursions,
including Discover the River trips that take
UK (Map pp322-3; %4495133; 48 Atlantic Rd, Fajara)
US (Map pp322-3; %4392856; Kairaba Ave, Fajara)
Bakau, Serekunda and most upcountry towns,
where you can dial direct overseas 24 hours a
day. The lines are good, and calls to Europe
GAMBIA you all the way from the coast upcountry
(seven-day trip around US$800, 14-day trip
US$1000).
FESTIVALS & EVENTS cost about US$7.50 for three minutes at peak GETTING THERE & AWAY
Held every June, the one-week Roots Homecom- times (7am to 6pm). There are many private Air Car & Motorcycle
ing Festival features concerts by Gambian and telecentres offering better rates. There are no SN Brussels Airlines is the only scheduled Reliable car hire companies include:
Diaspora artists, seminars and lectures. The area codes in The Gambia. airline that flies between The Gambia and AB Rent-a-Car (%4460926; [email protected];
high point is the weekend in Jufureh, where Europe. Most people get here on cheap charter Kairaba Hotel, Senegambia, Kololi) Has had consistently
local dance troupes and bands drown the TOURIST INFORMATION flights. The leading holiday operator is the good reviews for years.
village in music. The Association of Small Scale Enterprises in Tour- British-based Gambia Experience (%0845 330 4567; Hertz (%4390041; [email protected]; Boketh Total
ism (ASSET; www.asset-gambia.com) is an umbrella www.gambia.co.uk). Station) Slightly more expensive.
VACCINATION CERTIFICATES organisation, trying to help small businesses Air Sngal International has regular flights
A yellow-fever vaccination certificate is required in tourism, and a great source of information between Dakar (Senegal) and Banjul (US$150 Local Transport
of travellers coming from an infected area. for those wanting to travel responsibly. one way). Most minibuses and bush taxis upcountry
Other regional airlines serving The Gambia go along the road following the south bank
HOLIDAYS VISAS include Air Guine, Bellview, Slok Air and of the Gambia River. This road is in a ter-
As well as the religious holidays listed in the Visas are not needed by nationals of Common- West Coast Airways. Note that these com- rible condition, so prepare for a rough ride
Africa Directory chapter (p1106), these are the wealth countries, Belgium, Germany, Italy, panies dont have good safety standards, and and unpredictable delays. If possible, try to
public holidays observed in The Gambia: Luxembourg, the Netherlands, the Economic flights are not reliable. get a vehicle that goes along the north bank.
1 January New Years Day Community of West African States (Ecowas) Useful airline offices include: Not a dream journey either, but marginally
18 February Independence Day or Scandinavian countries for stays of up to 90 Air Sngal International (Map p319; %4472095; less rough. If you go to Georgetown or Basse,
1 May Workers Day days. For those needing one, visas are normally www.air-senegal-international.com; Ecowas Ave) you usually have to change vehicles at Soma.
15 August Assumption valid for one month and are issued in two to SN Brussels Airlines (Map pp322-3; %4496301/2; SerekundaBasse costs US$11, the 360km trip
three days for about US$45; youll need two www.flysn.com; Badala Park Way, Kololi) takes nine to 12 hours. SerekundaSoma is
INTERNET ACCESS photos. US$5.30 (four to six hours). A private taxi
There are plenty of internet cafs in Banjul and Visa extensions are dealt with swiftly at the Land from Serekunda to Basse should cost around
in all of the resorts. Rates are around US$1 per Immigration Office (Map p319; %4228611; OAU Blvd, Minibuses and bush taxis run regularly US$140 to US$180. Make sure its in a good
hour. Upcountry, access is harder to find. Banjul; h8am-4pm) in Banjul. They cost US$9. between Barra and the border at Karang condition.
 Lonely Planet Publications
THE GAMBIA 330 www.lonelyplanet.com

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