Instruction Manual for 7300

Quick Hoops Gothic High Tunnel Bender

Copyright 2014 Johnnys Selected Seeds. All rights reserved.

955 Benton Ave., Winslow, ME 04901 Phone: 1-877-564-6697 Fax: 1-800-738-6314

Email: [email protected] Web Site: Johnnyseeds.com

Overview:
High tunnels with a Gothic peak have long been the gold standard for shedding snow in Northern climates.
This is why Johnnys has developed the Quick Hoops Gothic High Tunnel Bender. In addition to shedding
snow, the Gothic-style peak allows for a wider tunnel; 14 to be exact. Within the tunnel, four 30 beds can be
prepared for growing. For those who grow in the winter, one Quick Hoops 6 wide Low Tunnel will fit over two
of these beds for another layer of protection. Even further, the addition of the peak sections gives the tunnel
more height, allowing more room for trellised crops. This added height also slows down the heat lost during
cool nights, preventing drastic temperature fluctuations. Finally, the taller tunnel allows small tractors and other
farm equipment to fit into the tunnel with ease.

August,2014GothicTunneltrialat
Johnny'sResearchFarm,Albion,ME

This manual has two main parts: It will illustrate how to pre-fabricate 13/8ChainLinkTopRail
your bows as well as show you how to build an entire tunnel such as the
one above, but at any length you desire. We will also give you some
creative options for end-walls and how to create roll-up sides for efficient
venting.
1-3/8 top rail for chain link fence is available in 10 ft. sections. 2-1/2
pieces are joined to create 14 ft. wide peaked hoops with this bender. A
10 ft. piece of 3/4" EMT conduit is also used to provide the main source
of strength for these bows.

www.johnnyseeds.com 1 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Construction Options:
We provide instructions on two main methods to build your tunnel:

Modular, Moveable 'Cathedral' Tunnel Traditional, Fixed 'Gothic' Tunnel

Eliot Coleman is credited for the conception of this hoop design as he incorporated it into the plans for his
modular moveable 'Cathedral' tunnel. His design criteria included requirements that the structure needed to
span four 30" beds, could shed snow easily, and could be moved in any direction. In the Fall of 2013, the
modular Cathedral tunnel was born. It was comprised of three 14' x 16' tunnel modules (the frame of one
module is shown above left) that are connected with a 1' space between to create a 50' structure. His idea was
that home gardeners could also build a single module for backyard use.
Johnny's has developed instructions using Eliot's hoop design, which we adapted to create traditional, fixed
high tunnels. This includes the use of more traditional elements, such as driven ground posts, framed end-
walls, hipboards, footboards, and roll-up side vents. This allows you to create a very solid, fixed structure with
a relatively small investment.
Eliot's original plans called for creating the side-hoops of the bows with the 9018 Quick Hoops High Tunnel
Bender and illustrated creating a jig to bend the 5 ft. peak section. Since then, Johnny's has developed the
7300 Quick Hoops Gothic High Tunnel Bender, which simplifies the process by including the 9018 Bender
plus a special jig for the peak sections. If you already own a 9018 Bender, you can choose to buy just the
7300.100 Peak Jig instead of the complete 7300 High Tunnel Bender. Both the 7300 and the 7300.100 will
include both sets of instructions so you can build either of these types of tunnels.
If you would like to build the Modular, Moveable 'Cathedral' tunnel, please refer to the other set of instructions.
The remainder of this set of instructions is written for the Traditional, Fixed 'Gothic' style tunnel.

14'x200'GothicTunnelatJohnny'sResearchFarm,Albion,ME

www.johnnyseeds.com 2 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Materials:
This Excel spreadsheet calculator
has been developed to allow you
to custom design a tunnel to meet
your own operational and financial
needs. It may be downloaded from
the product page for the 7300
Quick Hoops Gothic High
Tunnel Bender or from the
Growers Library on our website.

For your convenience, all part

numbers listed on it link to product
pages of their own on our website
as well as other sources' websites.

Simply input the values in the

different option boxes on the upper
left and the spreadsheet will
automatically tell you the following:
How many of each component
you will need,
Suggest where you may
purchase them,
Give you a square footage
calculation,
Estimated total cost calculation,
And cost per square foot.

It will allow you to quickly see cost

estimates for different tunnel
options and allow you to quickly
determine which ones meet your
needs and your budget.

www.johnnyseeds.com 3 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Contents for Part# 7300:
Curved bender and long lever bar (for finishing
the bend) * LLeevveerrBBaarr
Peak Jig and (2) short lever bars
Hardware for mounting to wood surfaces: (4)
1/4" x 5" lag screws, (4) 1/4" x 6" carriage bolts,
(4) 1/4" nuts, and (4) fender washers*
Detailed instructions for both types of tunnels -
Modular, Moveable 'Cathedral' tunnel and the BBeennddeerr
Traditional, Fixed 'Gothic' style tunnel
*Note: If you already have Johnny's 9018 High Tunnel Bender and have purchased part# 7300.100, everything
above will be included except the curved bender long lever bar and exactly half of the mounting hardware.

Mounting the Peak Jig:

Both the curved bender and the Peak Jig may be mounted to any solid surface, such as a workbench, a picnic
table, hay wagon, etc. They may be lag-screwed or thru-bolted into place. 5/16 mounting holes are provided
on them and the screws, bolts, etc. to mount them are also included. By securing the bender and jig fixed
positions, and pulling the tubing around them the operators can maintain precise control of the tubing being
bent.
The curved bender, wherever mounted, must have enough room to accommodate the infeed and outfeed of
pipe, as well as some type of support at the outfeed end about above the mounting surface. This will
prevent corkscrewing and ensure that the hoophouse bows created are in a single plane and not warped
looking. This can best be accomplished with 3/4 plywood (shown above).
The Peak Jig should be mounted such that there are a couple inches between the pipe being bent and the
edge of the mounting surface.

www.johnnyseeds.com 4 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Bending the Side Hoops:

1. After determining how many bows your high

tunnel will have, set aside twice that many
pipes to be bent.

2. Insert the swaged end of a pipe into the

holding strap at the end of the bender. Insert
just past the swage to prevent canting or
kinking that portion of the pipe.

3. With a smooth motion, pull back as if on a

long oar (do not push), and bend the pipe all
the way around the bender until the pipe just
touches the bender at the end closest to you.
Stop. Do not bend past the end, or the arc
you create will not be smooth.

4. Release tension until the pipe is loose in the

holding strap and move it through the holding
strap about half the length of the bender itself.

5. Repeat Steps 3. and 4. until about 3 of

unbent pipe remains beyond the closest end
of the bender, or if bending becomes difficult.

6. Insert the lever bar into the female end of the

pipe. This effectively makes the pipe longer
and will instantly give you more leverage for
bending the rest of the pipe.

7. Continue, repeating Steps 3. and 4. until you

have bent all but 18 of the pipe. Keep this
end straight. Doing so allows the bow to more
easily fit into the ground posts.

8. Repeat Steps 2. through 7. for all other

unbent pipes, always inserting the swaged
end of the pipe into the bender holding strap
first, until all pipes for the side hoops are
bent.

www.johnnyseeds.com 5 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Creating the Peak Sections:

1. Prefabrication:

a. From the calculator, determine the number

of peak sections you will need for your
tunnel. Set aside half as many pieces of 10
top-rail.

b. Cut two 5 sections from each piece of top-

rail, excluding the swaged ends.

c. Pre-drill a 5/16 hole through the center of

each piece to be used as a peak section.
Only drill through one wall. This will prevent
the opposite side from cracking when it is
being bent.

d. De-burr any cut ends of the pipe as well as

pre-drilled holes using a hand file, die
grinder, or bench grinder. It may be
necessary to ream out drilled holes after
deburring by re-drilling.

www.johnnyseeds.com 6 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
2. Bending:

a. Place the first 5 section of top-rail on the

Quick Hoops Gothic High Tunnel Bender,
inserting the 1/4" bolt on the bender into the
pre-drilled hole in the center of the underside
of the peak section. This will both center it
and keep it from slipping.

b. With another person, insert a short lever bar

into each end of the section of top-rail.

c. Together, push down on the end of the lever

bars until each side of the peak section
reaches the cross-bar on the bender.

d. Repeat Steps 2.a. through 2.c. for the

remaining pieces of top-rail to create the rest
of the peak sections.

e. Compare peak sections after bending to

ensure they are of the same angle. Adjust as
necessary.

www.johnnyseeds.com 7 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Creating Collar Ties:
1. Collar Ties are made with
10 ft. lengths of EMT
electrical conduit. These will
be placed on every bow.
Insert -1 of one end
inside a bench vise with the
mark positioned as shown.
Fully compress the vise.
Remove and repeat for the
opposite end. Ensure that
the flattened areas face the
same direction. The ends
may alternately be flattened
with a hammer.
2. With a 5/16 drill bit (cobalt bits work best), drill through the center of the flattened area on each
tie.
3. 'Dog ear' one side of the flattened area by sawing one corner off on each side. Hand file or bench grind
the edge to remove any burrs. It may be necessary to ream out the holes after deburring by re-drilling.

Creating Angle Braces:

1. Eight angle braces (four
for each end of the
tunnel) must be made
from four pieces of 1-
3/8" top rail. These
pieces should be about 4
ft. long (exact length is
not critical). Do this by
cutting the swaged end
off the top rail and then
cutting it in half.
2. As with the collar ties,
flatten the ends with a
large bench vise or
hammer; ensure that the
flats face the same
direction.
3. 'Dog ear' cut both
corners off each end.
See photo to right. Then,
pre-drill each end with a
5/16" drill bit.
4. De-burr any cut ends of
the pipe and pre-drilled
holes using a hand file,
die grinder, or bench
grinder. It may be
necessary to ream out
the holes after deburring
by re-drilling.

www.johnnyseeds.com 8 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 Assembling the Bows:

1. Use two pieces of top-rail as part of the jig for

assembling the bows. On a flat area of
ground, arrange some small stakes to create
the jig around the top-rail as shown above.
2. Place one side hoop in the left side of the jig,
as shown.
3. Place on side hoop in the right side of the jig,
as shown.
4. Insert the swaged ends of the side hoops into
the peak section.
5. Ensure that both ends of the side hoops are
firmly seated between the stakes of the jig
and that the entire bow is lying more or less
flat.

www.johnnyseeds.com 9 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 6. Secure the peak section to the hoops with
#10 x 3/4" hex self-drilling tek screws.
7. Slip a 1 3/8 brace band over the end of
each bow and slide them up toward the
peak section.
8. Secure the collar tie loosely to the brace
bands on the bow with 5/16-18 x 1.25
carriage bolts and 5/16 hex nuts. Place
the collar ties so that the dog-eared
portions of the flattened ends are facing
toward the peak.
9. Ensure that both ends of the bows are still
firmly seated in the jig.
10. Adjust the location of the brace bands so
that they are exactly the same distance
from the peak. Arrange four small stakes
around the collar tie as shown in the
diagram on page 8 to create a jig to make
assembly of all the rest of the bows easier.
Wait to tighten the hex nuts until step 8 on
page 23.
11. Start a pre-drilled hole on the side of each
brace band for self-drilling tek screws to go
into in step 8. Leave brace bands and
carriage bolts loose for now.
12. Using the existing hole in the corner of the
peak section as a guide, drill through the
peak fully with a 5/16" drill bit.
13. Flip the bow over and secure this side of
the peak section to the hoops with self-
drilling tek screws. Start a pre-drilled hole
on the side of each brace band on this side
as well.

www.johnnyseeds.com 10 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Creating ground posts from fence posts:
Ground posts are made from 1-5/8 chain link fence "line post" material, which is commonly available in 8 ft.
lengths. 8 ft. fence posts may be cut in half to produce 4 ft. ground posts (with 2 ft. in the ground and 2 ft.
exposed), which results in a 9- ft. high tunnel.

Procedure:
1. Determine the length and bow spacing you would like your
tunnel to have and plug those values into our spreadsheet
calculator. The calculator will tell you how many pieces and
what size of line post to buy.
2. Cut them all in half with a band saw, reciprocating saw, metal
chop saw, or hack saw (if you're not doing too many) to
create two vertical ground posts from each line post.
3. Pre-drill each per the diagram. Drill all the way through both
sides. De-burr the cut end and the pre-drilled holes of each
ground post to remove any sharp edges.
4. Make a mark 24 in from the bottom end as a guide for
insertion into the ground.

www.johnnyseeds.com 11 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 Hints on setting the corner ground posts:
Use the following diagrams to help you set the corner posts in a perfect rectangle.

4.Laythenotchedend 6.Adjusttheunnotched
ofthegaugeatthat endofthegaugetothat

measurementspot. measurementspot.
A B

3.Measureoutfrom
5.Measureoutfrom
C2thedesired C1thedesired
tunnellength. tunnellength.

A>B
Starthere. Tunnelis
2.Usingthegauge,setthe
secondcornerpostC2. 1.Setthefirst crooked.
cornerpostC1.
C2
C1 C2
C1
7.TakemeasurementsAandBabove.
12ft.

8.Adjustthegaugetotheright
orleftuntilAandBareequal. 9.SetcornerpostsC3andC4.
C3 C4

A B

Tunnelforms
aperfect
rectangle.

A=B
Tunnelis
squaredoff.

C2 C1 C2 C1

www.johnnyseeds.com 12 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Site preparation and setting the ground posts:
1. Prepare the footprint of the tunnel as if you would open soil in a field.
2. Create a gauge for setting posts by using one 5/4" x 6 x 14 piece of wood, and simply cutting a small
notch in one end. This will be the gauge between ground posts for a single bow. You can also simply
use a tape measure in lieu of a gauge.
3. Weed Barrier - An option to consider at this point is weed barrier along the edges of the tunnel. This is
traditionally an area where weed control is difficult and some fabric that suppresses weeds can be very
effective here. If you choose this option, proceed to step 5.

3 4

1
2

4. If you choose to forgo weed barrier, proceed as follows: Set the four corner ground posts first
as follows:
a. Place the first corner post (#1 pictured above) in the desired location with the pre-drilled hole closest
to the top. Insert the mushroom-shaped ground post driver in the top and drive it in about 2 ft. with a
sledge-hammer until the mark is at the soil surface.
b. Place the notched end of the 14 ft. gauge you made in Step 2 against post 1. Swing the opposite end
the gauge to where you would like post 2 to be. Holding the new ground post against the un-notched
end, drive it in place.
c. Using a long tape, measure to where the opposite end of the tunnel will be. Mark approximately
where you expect to put post 3.
d. Lay the notched end of the gauge down at that spot. Lay the opposite end where your think post 4
will be. Measure from post 1 to the notch in the 14 ft gauge. Then measure from post 2 to the un-
notched end of the gauge. These measurements should be the same for the tunnel to be square and
true. Adjust the gauge until they are.
e. Set corner posts 3 and 4.
f. Run the long tape from corner post 1 to corner post 4. Secure one end to post 1. Pull it tight and
secure the other end to post 4. Secure with duct tape, clamps, or something similar. This will serve
as a gauge as well as a straight line for setting the other posts.

www.johnnyseeds.com 13 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 g. Using the long tape measure as a guide, set the rest of the posts for this side of the tunnel.

JSS#9482
GroundPostDriver

h. Repeat steps 4.f. and g. for the other side of the tunnel.
i. Inspect the orientation of ground posts and adjust as necessary: Pre-drilled bolt holes (near the
ground) should be facing outward from the tunnel to minimize adjustment later on. Bolt holes for the
bolts that hold the bows in place (near the top of the ground posts) should be in line with the length of
the tunnel. By hand or (if necessary) with a pipe wrench or similar tool, rotate any ground posts as
needed so that they are correctly oriented.
j. The ground posts are now set and ready for bows.

www.johnnyseeds.com 14 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 5. If you do choose to use weed
barrier, proceed as follows:

a. Perform steps 4.a. through e. to set

and square the four corner posts.
b. If you have a pair of D-handle
garden forks or spades, you can
quickly set up your weed barrier on
a makeshift spool such as this. This
makes handling and cutting to
length very easy. A piece of top-rail
is used as the spindle. Position at
one end of the tunnel location and
offset, so that it faces down the side
of what will eventually be the
tunnel. Pull a few inches of the
weed barrier off the roll, and with a
utility knife, cut it down the center
so that you have started two 2 ft.
wide strips. Have one person hold
the utility knife near the roll with the
blade through the fabric, while one
or two others pull the fabric off the
roll and walk with it down the side
of the plot until you reach the
opposite end. Cut it to length,
leaving about 1 ft. of overlap on
each end. A yellow centerline mark
should be conveniently placed at or
near the centerline of each of the
two 2 ft wide strips. Position each
14 ft. apart on center and parallel.
c. Make a 2" cut centered between
the sides of the fabric that is about
1 ft. in from one cut end. Make just
a single cut in line with the length of the fabric. Slip this end of the fabric over the
end post near it.
With only a single slit, the fabric will be somewhat snug against the post,
which helps prevent weeds from growing up through the hole.
9739 Weed Barrier. 4' x 50'
9724 Weed Barrier. 4' x 250'
A note about weed barrier - Keep the top of the weed barrier fabric free of soil as best you
can. If soil is allowed to collect on it, weeds will likely germinate in that soil and root
through the weed barrier, which will make them difficult to kill and remove by physical
means.
d. Go to the opposite end of the fabric, pull it straight and somewhat taught, and
make a similar cut that is even with the corner ground post at that end. Slip it over
the ground post and smooth out the weed barrier along the length of the tunnel.
e. Secure the edges of the weed barrier to the ground with fabric staples along its
edges. A hammer is sometimes helpful in difficult soils.
9723 Fabric Staples. Box of 500.
f. Repeat steps 5.b through f. for the opposite side of the tunnel.

www.johnnyseeds.com 15 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 g. Run a long tape measure down the center of one of the
pieces of weed barrier fabric and secure to the corner
posts with clamps, etc.
h. Make 2" slits with a razor knife for the rest of the ground
posts on that side of the tunnel. For example, make a cut
every 4 ft. if your tunnel will have 4 ft. bow spacing.
i. Drive ground posts in each of the slits.
j. Repeat 5.h. and i. for the opposite side of the tunnel until
all the ground posts are set.
k. Perform step 4.i. to align the ground posts.

www.johnnyseeds.com 16 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Framing the Tunnel:

1. Bows: make a mark on each of the bows

about 6 from the end. This will be used as a
guide for insertion into the ground posts.

a. Clamp large vise grips or spring clamps

onto each side of the bow just above the
marks to keep it from slipping into the
ground posts.

b. Transport the first end wall bow to the

furthest corner posts and insert to the
marks made in step 1. above.

c. Using the upper pre-drilled holes in the

ground posts as a guide, with a 5/16" drill
bit, drill through the inserted portion of each
side of the bow. These should be aligned
such that they are in line with the length of
the tunnel.

d. Secure the bow to the ground post with

5/16"-18 x 2" hex bolts and 5/16" hex nuts.

e. Repeat steps 1.a. through 1.d. for the rest

of the bows.

www.johnnyseeds.com 17 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
2. Ridge Pole: pre-drill a 5/16" hole through
the non-swaged end of a piece of 1-3/8" top
rail for chain link fence at about 9/16" from
the end. Drill through both walls. This will
serve as the first piece of ridge pole. Note:
if you intend to install scissor doors on this
end of the tunnel, you will need about 4" of
ridge pole protruding over the end of the
tunnel; in that case, drill the hole 4-9/16"
from the end of the top-rail.

a. Raise the top-rail up to one of the end

wall bows of the tunnel and place the
hole directly over the hole in the center
of the peak connector. The rest of the
ridge pole should be roughly aligned with
the peak of the next bow and temporarily
held or clamped in place. With a 5/16"
drill bit, ream through both the peak
connector and the ridge pole so that they
can easily accept a through bolt.

b. Fasten the end of the ridge pole to the

end wall bow with a 5/16"-18 x 3"
carriage bolt inserted from the top and
secured at the bottom with a flat washer
and 5/16" hex nut.

c. Attach the end of a long tape measure to

the end of the ridge pole with a clamp or
tape and run the tape to the opposite
end of the tunnel.

d. Adjust the position of the peak of the

next bow so that it is 4 ft. from the
previous bow. Using the hole in the peak
connector as a guide, drill up through
both walls of the ridge pole. You may
find it easier to drill down from the top;
that works fine, but remember to ream
through the ridge pole and the peak
connector after so that a bolt may be
easily inserted through both the ridge
pole and peak connector. As before,
secure the ridge pole to the bow with a
5/16"-18 x 3" carriage bolt, flat washer,
and 5/16" hex nut.

e. Slide the non-swaged end of another

piece of top-rail over the swaged end of
the ridge pole. Secure together from
beneath with a #10 x 3/4" hex-head self-
drilling tek screw.

f. Repeat step 2.d. for the third bow (only).

www.johnnyseeds.com 18 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
3. Angle Ties: at this point, angle ties must be
installed so that all successive bows are vertical
and plumb. Slip a 1-3/8" brace band over one of
the side hoops of one of the end wall bows, two
1-3/8" brace bands over the next bow, and one 1-
5/8" brace band over the third ground post.

a. Position the 1-5/8" brace band on the third

hoop's ground post at ground level, with its
tabs pointing toward the closest end of the
tunnel, compress them with a pair of needle
nose Vise Grips. Loosely secure one end of
an angle tie to the brace band with a 5/16"-18
x 1.25" carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove
the Vise Grips.
b. Raise the opposite end of the angle tie up and
rest it against the next bow. Slide both 1-3/8"
brace bands up the second bow's side hoop
until the lower brace band is aligned to receive
the end of the angle tie. Clamp in place with
the Vise Grips. Loosely secure with a 5/16"-18
x 1.25" carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove
the Vise Grips.
c. Position the second brace band on the second
bow so that it is resting on the previously
attached brace band and pointing toward the
closest end of the tunnel. Clamp with the Vise
Grips and loosely secure with a 5/16"-18 x
1.25" carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove the
Vise Grips.
d. Raise the opposite end of the angle tie up and
rest it against the end wall bow. Slide the 1-
3/8" brace band up the end wall side hoop until
the brace band is aligned to receive the end of
the angle tie. Clamp in place with the Vise
Grips. Loosely secure with a 5/16"-18 x 1.25"
carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove the Vise
Grips.
e. Using a plumb bob or long level, adjust the
end wall bow so that it is plumb (vertically
level). All three bows should move together.
While holding the end wall in that position,
quickly tighten all the nuts on the angle ties'
brace bands.
f. Repeat steps 3.a. through 3.e. for the
opposite side of the tunnel.
g. Secure all brace bands installed in steps 14.
through 20. from inside the tunnel with #10 x
3/4" hex self-drilling tek screws by screwing
through the side of the brace band and into
the bow or ground post. This will prevent any
slippage later on.

www.johnnyseeds.com 19 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
4. Ridge Pole (continued): continue
adding sections of ridge pole and
securing to the peak connector of
each bow every four feet as before
until you reach the end of the tunnel
and have a section of ridge pole
protruding out over the opposite end
wall.

a. Cut the ridge pole off flush with the

outside of the end of the opposite
end wall bow. Note: if you intend to
install scissor doors on this end of
the tunnel, you will need about 4"
of ridge pole protruding over the
end of the tunnel; in that case, cut
the ridge pole off 4" from the
outside end of the end wall bow.

b. Now install a set of angle ties on

this end of the tunnel the same
way you did in steps 3.a. through
3.g..

c. Even after the ridge pole is in place

you may still note some
unnevenness in the bows, made
more clear now by a 'snaking' ridge
pole. This may never be perfect,
but can be compensated
somewhat by the installation of
hipboards. For that reason, we will
again put off securing the collar ties
until the hipboards have been
installed.

www.johnnyseeds.com 20 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
5. Hipboards: we are using 5/4" x 6" x 16'
decking for our hipboards and baseboards.
You can choose to use any material you like.
First, determine what height you would like
your hipboards to be. Ours were about
shoulder height and offered very good
ventilation.

a. Measure and cut a 10 ft. length of board to

be used as the first section of hipboard.
Clamp it to the bows on one side of the
tunnel at the desired height. Measure to
ensure that the bottom edge of the board is
the same distance from the ground on the
first and last bow it is clamped to. The 10 ft.
length will allow the boards to be joined in
between the bows, where there is room to
do so.

b. Cut a vertical guide board the same length

as the measurement made in step 5.a.
Place and clamp it under the hipboard on
the furthest bow to prevent it from slipping.

c. Use a punch and hammer to make a dimple

on the inside of end wall bow, centered
between the top and bottom edge of the
hipboard. With a 5/16" bit, drill through the
bow first, then through the hipboard. Fasten
the end of the hipboard to the end wall bow
with a 5/16"-18 x 3" carriage bolt inserted
from the outside and secured with a flat
washer and 5/16" hex nut.

d. Using the guide board on the far end, clamp

the next section of hipboard to the tunnel
bows so that it butts up to the pervious one;
clamp only the far end.

e. Raise a piece of scrap board greater than 5

ft. long up under the two pieces of hipboard.
Loosen the first one and adjust upward or
downward until the two hipboards are
aligned in a straight line and clamp them to
their bows.

f. Pre-cut and place a 2 ft. piece of patch

board inside the seam created by the two
hipboards. Center and clamp in place.

g. With a 5/16" bit, pre-drill four holes as

shown through the patch board and the two
hipboards. Fasten with four 5/16"-18 x 3"
carriage bolts inserted from the outside and
secured with flat washers and 5/16" hex
nuts.

www.johnnyseeds.com 21 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 h. Repeat step 5.c. for each of the remaining
bows the first hipboard is attached to, as
well as the first bow the second hipboard is
attached to.

i. Continue on down the tunnel, repeating

steps 5.c. through 5.h.. until the last
hipboard is in place and a section of
hipboard is protruding outward past the
opposite end wall.

j. Cut the hipboard off flush with the outside

of the end of the opposite end wall bow.

k. Repeat steps 5.a. and 5.c. through 5.j. for

the opposite side of the tunnel.

6. Baseboards: these are installed the same

way as the hipboards except for the fasteners
used to secure them and the need to align
them, since they lay flat against the ground.

a. Measure and cut a 10 ft. length of board to

be used as the first section of baseboard.
Clamp it to the ground posts on one side of
the tunnel. Similar to the first hipboard, this
10 ft. length will allow the baseboards to be
joined in between the bows, where there is
room to do so.

b. Using the lower pre-drilled holes in the

ground posts as a guide, with a 5/16" drill
bit, drill through the ground post first, then
through the baseboard. Fasten the end of
the baseboard to the end wall ground post
with a 5/16"-18 x 7" J- bolt inserted from
the outside and secured with a flat washer
and two 5/16" hex nuts.

c. Clamp the next section of baseboard to the

tunnel ground posts so that it butts up to
previous one.

d. Pre-cut and place a 2 ft. piece of patch

board inside the seam created by the two
baseboards. Center and clamp in place.

e. With a 5/16" bit, pre-drill two holes as

shown through the patch board and the
two baseboards. Fasten with two 5/16"-18
x 3" carriage bolts inserted from the
outside and secured with flat washers and
5/16" hex nuts.

www.johnnyseeds.com 22 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 f. Repeat step 6.b. for each of the remaining ground posts the baseboards are attached to.

g. Continue down the tunnel, repeating steps 6.c. through 6.e. until the last baseboard is in place and a
section of basboard is protruding outward past the opposite end wall. Before attaching, cut the last
baseboard to length so that it is flush with the outside
of the end of the opposite end wall ground post.

h. Repeat steps 6.a. through 6.g. for the opposite side of

the tunnel.

7. Poly Latch Wire Channel on the Hipboards and

Baseboards: Poly Latch Wire is used to hold the main
covering in place and secure it along the length and above
the roll up sides.

a. Using #10 x 3/4" phillips self-drilling tek screws about

every 12", secure Poly Latch Wire Channel down the
middle of the outside of the hipboard. Cut off any
excess on the opposite end flush to the end of the
hipboard.

b. Cut to length and secure a 4 ft. section at each end, on

each side of the tunnel laying on top of the baseboards.
Secure it to the end wall bow and the next bow in. This
will serve to hold an overlap panel of plastic to prevent
drafts and heat loss at the ends of the roll up sides.

c. Using clamps, form and attach and piece of Poly Latch

Wire Channel to the second bow in between the
channel attached in step 42. and the bottom of the
hipboard.

www.johnnyseeds.com 23 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
8. Collar Tie Adjustment: at this point, the collar ties must be adjusted so that they are somewhat level (with
respect to the tunnel) and secured in place. These are not really meant to be truly level because the tunnel
may not necessarily be built on level ground. They will simply be adjusted for evenness and aesthetics and
secured in place.
a. Assign a person to be the eyes for this portion of the project, located at one end of the tunnel, looking
down through it. That person may want to use a ladder for better viewing.
b. With another person, work your way down the tunnel adjusting the loose collar ties as directed by your
spotter until they are all somewhat aligned and even.
c. Go back and tighten all the carriage bolts on their brace bands.
d. Further secure the brace bands by installing a #10 x 3/4" hex self-drilling
tek screw through each side of each brace band. This will prevent
slippage and create a very strong backbone for the tunnel. Ensure that all
screws face inward, parallel to where the plastic will be and never
positioned so that they may touch the plastic.

9. Duct Tape: this is used at certain spots on the tunnel to prevent chafing of
the plastic.
a. Wrap the top of each ground post with duct tape.
b. Add a piece over both ends of each piece of Poly Latch Wire Channel on
each hipboard.
c. Add a piece over each end of the ridge pole. Note: if opting for scissor
doors, omit this step.

www.johnnyseeds.com 24 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Traditional End Walls:
There are a great many ways to go about this, few
of which could be considered wrong. We are
illustrating how we decided to craft a traditional
end wall for our 14' x 200' trial tunnel. There are no
rules. Build your end wall however you like. We do
hope you are able to get some ideas and
inspiration from ours.This is how we did it...

1. Poly Latch Wire Channel: This is used to hold

the end wall plastic on as well as secure the
main covering later on.
a. Start by attaching Poly Latch Wire Channel
to the outside of the end wall bow by using
clamps and forming it around the bow. Start
at the top and work down. It is not necessary
to install over the ridge pole, so start right
next to it.
b. Secure with #10 x 3/4" phillips self-drilling
tek screws about every 12". Adding an extra
one at each end of the channel is a good
idea to prevent failure, since the channel has
preloaded stress and will want to spring
back quite a bit if allowed.
c. Cut to length just shy of the top of the
hipboard and finish off.
d. Cut to length and install a section below the
hipboard on that side that finishes just above
the footboard.
e. Repeat steps 1.a. through 1.d. for the
opposite side of the bow.

2. Endwall Baseboard:
a. Lay a 2" x 6" x 16' board across the bottom
of the end wall with one end flush to the
outside of the baseboard. Hold in place and
make a mark even with the outside edge of
the baseboard on the opposite side. Cut the
board to length and clamp it back in place.
b. Use a punch and hammer to make a dimple
on the inside of the end wall ground post,
centered between the top and bottom edge
of the footboard. With a 5/16" bit, drill
through the ground post first, then through
the footboard.
c. Fasten the end of the baseboard to the end
ground post with a 5/16"-18 x 3.5" carriage
bolt inserted from the outside and secured
with a flat washer and 5/16" hex nut. Repeat
for the opposite side of the bow.

www.johnnyseeds.com 25 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
3. Door Frame:

a. Measure across the endwall baseboard,

find center and mark it on the baseboard.

b. Make a mark on the baseboard 32" to the

right and 32" to the left of the center mark.
These will be the door frame's bottom
inside boundaries.

c. Raise a 2" x 4" x 10' board vertically up to

the middle of the end wall and align one
edge of it with the center of the ridge pole
and the first mark made in 3.a. above. Make
a mark on the collar tie that along that edge
of the board. Make a mark on the collar tie
32" to the right and 32" to the left of that
mark. This will be the door frame's upper
inside boundaries.

d. Now, with its end resting on the ground

inside the end wall and its narrow side
against the baseboard and endwall bow,
align the inside edge of the 2" x 4" x 10'
board with left-most marks on the collar tie
and base board. Clamp in place or have a
helper hold the board. Make marks just
above the baseboard, above and below the
collar tie, and above and below the bow.

e. Finish making marks using a hand square per the top board in the diagram above. Note that the
measurements in the diagram are approximate as your marks may vary somewhat from them. Notch
these out 1.5" deep and cut to length so the board will be flush with the bow.

www.johnnyseeds.com 26 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 f. Repeat steps 3.a.
through 3.e. for the
opposite side of the
door frame.

g. Clamp the inside door

frame boards
constructed in steps
3.a. through 3.f. in
place so that their
inside edges are
aligned with the outer
marks on the collar tie
and baseboard. Using
a large framings
square, check to
ensure they are at right
angles to the
baseboard. Adjust as
necessary. Secure them to the bow using 9" metal strap ties with 1.25" drywall screws and a 5/16"-18 x
4" carriage bolt, 5/16" washer, and 5/16" nut at the top and a 5/16"-18 x 6" carriage bolt, 5/16" washer,
and 5/16" nut at the bottom. When drilling at the top remember to drill through the bow first, then the
board. The strap ties will need to be slid under the Poly Latch Wire channel and then bent downward
and formed over the end of board.

h. Rest a 2" x 4" x 8' board vertically on top of the baseboard just outside one of the door frame boards
installed above with the wide edge facing outward from the end of the tunnel. Make a mark just below
the collar tie and cut to length. Clamp this new outside door frame board to the inside door frame board
and secure with several 3" bugle head wood screws. 'Toe-nail' one of the screws at a 45 degree angle
at the bottom from the outside into the top of the baseboard. You can also add a metal gusset corner
brace as we did (shown above right) using 1.25" drywall screws.

i. Cut a 6' x 1-5/8" line

post in half and drive
each half in the
ground just inside the
baseboard and about
6" outside of each side
of the door frame until
the top of the post is
more or less flush with
the top of the
baseboard. Drill a
5/16" hole through the
posts and baseboard
and secure with 5/16"-
18 x 6" carriage bolts,
5/16" washers, and
5/16" nuts. These
posts will add stability
to the endwall
baseboard and door
frame.

www.johnnyseeds.com 27 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 j. Cut two more pieces of 2" x 4" to a length of 64". Place one at the top of the door opening so that the
wide edge is facing the end of the tunnel. Secure at each end with a couple 3" bugle head wood screws.
Place the second one under the first with its narrow edge facing out and flus with the outside edges of
the door frame. Secure at each end with a couple 3" bugle head wood screws, then secure the second
board to the first with four more 3" bugle head wood screws.

k. Pre-drill a 5/16" hole in the

center of a deck framing bracket
and secure inside the bow,
centered on the hipboard, with
self-drilling tek screws and the
existing carriage bolt. At an
even height from the baseboard,
attach another bracket to the
outside edge of the door frame,
using 1.25" drywall screws. Cut
a 2" x 4" board to fit, notching
the angled end for the carriage
bolt. install and secure with 1.25"
drywall screws. Repeat for the
opposite side.

www.johnnyseeds.com 28 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
4. Doors: these will be built in-place
for best fit. The measurements
below are approximate, since the
boards will be cut to fit. See
diagram on the following page for
the sequence used for assembly.
a. Lay some type of spacer that is
about a 1/4" thick on top of the
baseboard inside the door frame
(we used a piece of angle iron).
Hold a 2" x 4" board vertically in
the door opening and mark on
the board about a 1/4" below the
lower edge of the top of the door
frame. Cut to length. Return the
board to the same spot on top of
the spacer and check for fit.
There should be about a 1/4"
space above the door. If the fit is
tight, trim as necessary, then cut
three more the same length.
These should be about 82" long,
but may be slightly different for
your tunnel. Place board #1
snug to the left side of the door
frame and clamp in place.

b. Place board #2 about 1/8" to the left

of the center of the door frame on top
of the spacer. Check for square with
respect to the baseboard using a
large framing square and clamp in
place.

c. Hold a 2" x 4" board horizontally so it

butts up to the first board and passes
by the front face of the second. From
inside the door, use board #2 as a
straight-edge to mark the
board. Cut the board off along
that mark and check for fit. Trim
as necessary and clamp board
#3 in place at the bottom of the
doorway between boards #1
and #2. This board should be
about 24.5" long, but may be
slightly different for your tunnel.

d. Repeat step 4.c. for board #4 at

the top of the door.

e. Using 1.25" drywall screws,

install flat metal L-straps at all
four corners on the inside face
of the door.

www.johnnyseeds.com 29 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 f. Using the wood screws supplied with them,
install hinges about 1' from the top and
bottom of the left side of the door as shown
in the diagram. Do not pre-drill.

g. In the middle opening of the door, pre-drill

and install screw-eyes near the top of board
#1 and the bottom of board #2. A large 12-
point socket in a ratchet driver works very
well for this job.

h. Using #9 wire, aircraft cable, or something

similar, install a cable support assembly as
shown with a small turnbuckle and cable
clamps. Once installed, remove all clamps
and adjust the turnbuckle until the right side
of the door is centered vertically in the
opening. There should be a 1/8" -1/4" gap
above and below the door.

i. Swing the door open. Further secure the

corners of the door with two 5/16" x 6" heavy
duty wood screws at each corner. Pre-drill
before driving the screws. Swing the door
shut. re-adjust the turnbuckle if necessary.

j. Repeat steps 4.a. through 4.i. for the right

door. Refer to board sequence numbers 5
through 8 in the diagram. Ensure there is
about a 1/4"
space
between
boards #2
and #6. This
will allow the
doors to open
easily.

k. If desired,
install trim
boards
around the
inside edges
of the doors
to keep them
draft free.

l. Using 3"
bugle head
wood screws
at the top and
bottom of the
doors,
temporarily
screw them
shut.

www.johnnyseeds.com 30 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 m. Cut two 1" x 4" to span the insides of
each of the doors as a bit of extra
bracing. Level these with another
piece of board as shown to the right.

n. Cut to length as needed an install Poly

Latch Wire Channel around the open
holes in the doors, around the door
frame, and along both sides of the
endwall baseboard.

5. Skinning the Endwall:

a. The plastic should be a 32'-wide 6 mil
greenhouse film, that is at least 25 ft.
longer than the tunnel will be. Cut a
piece off the roll that is 12' long.
b. Lay the cut panel of plastic over the
endwall so that one of the long edges
(preferably the factory cut end) is along
the ground and all edges of the endwall
are overlapped with extra plastic. There
may be manufacturer's writing on the
plastic. You can use that as an aid to
level the plastic across the endwall.
c. Starting at the top and working
concurrently down both sides of the
endwall bow, Poly Latch ("wiggle") wire
the plastic into the channel, keeping the
plastic taut across the face of the
endwall as you go. Continue down to
the baseboards.
www.johnnyseeds.com 31 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 d. Fold the excess side plastic around
the endwall bow and over the area
between the first and second bows,
below the hipboard. Poly Latch wire
the plastic tightly into this area. This
will serve as an overlap panel to
prevent drafts caused by the roll-up
sides. Repeat for the opposite side
of the tunnel.

e. Poly Latch wire the plastic into the

channel on the endwall baseboard.

f. Poly Latch wire the plastic into the

channel around the top and sides of
the door frame.

g. Poly Latch wire the plastic into the

channel around each of the doors. At
this point, much of the slack plastic
has been taken up by the channel and
may be very taught. You may need to
cut the plastic between the channel
on the doors and the channel on the
frame to relieve the tension enough to
install the Poly Latch wire. Be sure to
pull it tight when installing the wire.

www.johnnyseeds.com 32 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 h. Trim off excess plastic along the outside
edges of all the Poly Latch wire channel,
leaving about an inch or so excess.

i. When you are done, the endwall should look

like this:

6. Door hardware can be

anything you dream up.
a. First, we installed a sliding
bolt at the top and bottom of
the left hand door, which will
be closed most of the time,
but can be opened when
needed to allow access for
walking tractors,
wheelbarrows, and other
small equipment.
b. Then, we created a jackpot
lever latch that can be
operated from both the
inside and outside of the
tunnel. The latch was
designed with a bent 3/8"
threaded rod, two small tool
handles, locknuts, washers,
a wooden shim, and flat
bracket over the shim to
prevent wear and serve as
a latch plate. The shimmed
latch plate serves to keep
the door tightly shut. We
added a couple phillips self-
drilling tek screws to serve
as speed bumps to help
keep the latch in place. If
you would like to create a
similar latch, the part
number for the replacement
handles is 9673.500.

www.johnnyseeds.com 33 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Scissor Doors for an End Wall:
This is another way to do an end wall that has been developed by Eliot Coleman and is in use extensively at
his Four Season Farm. It is a very low cost method, but the beauty of it, especially for a tunnel this size or
larger, is that it instantly allows small tractor access, which can be a huge labor saver. We installed scissor
doors on just one end of our trial tunnel. This is how we did it...

1. Endwall Baseboard: this design has a baseboard the same size as the traditional endwall, but it is
detachable.
a. Lay a 2" x 6" x 16' board
across the bottom of the end
wall with one end flush to the
outside of the baseboard.
Hold it in place and make a
mark on the board even with
the outside edge of the
baseboard on the opposite
side. Cut the board to length
and clamp it back in place.
b. Use a punch and hammer to
make a dimple on the inside
of the end wall ground post
centered between the top and
bottom edge of the footboard.
With a 3/8" bit, drill through
the ground post first, then
through the baseboard.
Repeat for the opposite side of the bow.
c. Insert a 3/8" x 5" fully-threaded hex bolt through the hole with the threads facing outward. Secure to the
ground post with a 3/8" hex jam nut and 3/8" lock washer. Repeat for the opposite side of the endwall
bow.

d. Slide the removable baseboard onto the bolts installed in step 1.c.. Secure with 3/8" wing nuts and 3/8"
flat washers.

e. Measure the width of the baseboard and make a mark at the center.

2. Scissor Rails:
a. Pre-drill a 5/16" hole through both walls 3/4" from the non-swaged end of two pieces of 1-3/8" top rail.
b. Position a brace band inside the predrilled end of one of the scissor door rails. Slide a 5/16"-18 x 1.75"
carriage bolt through the predrilled holes and the brace band. Secure with a flat washer and 5/16" nut.
Repeat for the other rail.
c. In step 4.a. of the Framing procedure, you should have opted to leave four extra inches of ridge pole
protruding out from the endwall. If you did not, follow this procedure:
i. Cut the swaged end of a scrap piece of top-rail, so that the non-swaged portion is 4" long.
ii. Remove the ridge pole bolt on the endwall bow and insert the swaged end of the piece of scrap into
the end of the ridge pole.
iii. Using the existing bolt holes as a guide, drill a 5/16" hole through both walls of the scrap piece and
ream down through the hole in the peak of the bow.
iv. Insert the bolt through the ridge pole, scrap piece, and bow peak and secure with a flat washer and
5/16" nut.

www.johnnyseeds.com 34 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 d. Slide the brace band on the end of one of the
rails over the ridge pole protruding over the
end-wall. Add the second rail in the same
fashion. They should hang freely and be able
to rotate out to the sides of the tunnel easily.
They should also just touch the ground or
come close to it. If they are too long and hit
the ground, cut them short as needed.
e. Drive a hex self-drilling tek screw into the top
of the ridge pole just outside the brace band
of the second rail that was installed. This will
keep them from slipping off the ridge pole.
f. Holding the rails together, align them with the
center mark made in step 1.e. and clamp
them to the baseboard.
g. Use a punch and hammer to make a dimple
near the bottom of the outside scissor rail,
centered between the top and bottom edge of
the baseboard. With a 1/4" bit, make a pilot
hole through the outside rail first, then
through the inside rail. Re-drill and ream the
1/4" holes out with a 3/8" bit and continue all
the way through the baseboard.
h. Insert a 3/8" x 6" fully threaded carriage bolt
through the hole in the baseboard with the
threads facing outward. Secure to the
baseboard with a 3/8" hex jam nut and 3/8"
flat washer.
i. Slide the rails onto baseboard bolt to make
sure the fit correctly, then slide the outside
one off and secure the inside rail with a 3/8"
wingnut.
j. Add a section of Poly Latch wire channel
along the top edge of each side of the
baseboard. This will be used in winter to seal
up the end of the tunnel.
3. Poly Latch Wire Channel: this is used to hold
the end wall plastic on as well as secure the
main covering later on.
a. Start by attaching Poly Latch Wire Channel to
the outside of the end wall bow by using
clamps and forming it around the bow. Start
at the top and work down. It is not necessary
to install over the ridge pole, so start right
next to it.
b. Secure with #10 x 3/4" phillips self-drilling tek
screws about every 12". Adding an extra one
at each end of the channel is a good idea to
prevent failure, since the channel has
preloaded stress and will want to spring back
quite a bit if allowed.

www.johnnyseeds.com 35 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 c. Cut to length just shy of the top of the hipboard and finish off.
d. Cut to length and install a section below the hipboard on that side that finishes just above the footboard.
e. Repeat steps 1.a. through 1.d. for the opposite side of the bow.

4. Skinning the Endwall:

a. Pull out 12' of 32'
wide greenhouse
plastic, cut it off, and
cut it down the
middle. That should
give you two 12' x
16' panels. Clamp
the free scissor door
rail to the right side
of the bow so that it
is up and out of the
way.
b. Lay one of the pastic
panels over the end
wall opening
opposite of the
clamped scissor
door rail. One of the
wider 16' edges
should lay along the
ground.
c. Wrap the panel around the bolted vertical
scissor door pipe evenly and secure in place
with part# 7035 Snap Clamps every foot or
so. Starting at the top and working down,
Poly Latch wire the other side of the plastic
panel into the channel on that side of the end
bow.
d. Adjust Snap Clamps as necessary to remove
any wrinkles in the door plastic.
e. Install self-drilling tek screws (phillips or hex
head - your choice) through the Snap
Clamps. Ensure that the clamp does not
loosen or release while doing so.
f. Release the clamp keeping the other scissor
door rail out of the way and let it hang
vertically near the other bolted one.
g. Lay a piece of cut plastic over the opposite
side now and wrap it around the vertical
scissor door pipe evenly. Secure in place with
Snap Clamps every foot or so, but align them
so that they are in between the Snap Clamps
on the other pipe.
h. Remove the wingnut holding the first scissor
door rail and slide both rails onto the bolt and
secure together with the wingnut.

www.johnnyseeds.com 36 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 i. Poly Latch wire the other side of the plastic sheet to the channel on that side of the end bow.
j. Adjust Snap Clamps as necessary to remove any wrinkles in the door plastic.
k. Install self-drilling tek screws through the Snap Clamps.
l. Fold the excess side plastic around the endwall bow and over the area between first and second bows,
below the hipboard. Poly Latch wire the plastic tightly into this area. This will serve as an overlap panel
to prevent drafts cause by the roll-up sides. Repeat for the opposite side of the tunnel.
m. Trim off excess
plastic along the
outside edges of
all the Poly Latch wire
channel, leaving
about an inch or so
excess.
n. You may find that
the scissor doors
spread apart
somewhat due to
the plastic tension.
You can correct
that by readjusting
the plastic at the
snap clamps and
adding a another
hex bolt through
the middle of the
scissor doors as
shown above right.
o. When you are
done, the endwall
should look like
this:

www.johnnyseeds.com 37 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
Skinning the Tunnel:
This is an "all-hands-on-deck" evolution that is best done with little or no wind. If possible, postpone
this portion of the procedure if the weather is not cooperative or if you feel you do not have enough
people to control the plastic. The greenhouse plastic required to cover this tunnel is 32' wide.

1. Roll-up sides (part 1): This design uses 3/4"

EMT conduit, 3/4" EMT compression fittings,
part# 9150 Snap Clamps, #10 x 3/4" phillips self-
drilling tek screws, and #7033 Sidewall Hand
Crank.
a. Lay out 10 ft. sections of 3/4" EMT along the
side of the tunnel.
b. Connect them together using a 3/4" EMT
compression fittings. Tighten both sides of
each fitting against each other. Ensure there is
at least 1' of overlap at each end of the tunnel.
c. Install a phillips self-drilling tek screw in each
side of the fitting through the EMT to prevent it
from slipping. Pre-drilling through the fitting with an 1/8" bit first.
d. Repeat steps 1.a. through 1.c. for the opposite side of the tunnel.
2. Plastic preparation:
a. Position the plastic
at one end of the
tunnel and offset,
so that it faces
down the side of
the tunnel.
b. Use a pair of D-
handle garden
forks or spades (or
four if you have a
very large roll of
plastic like we did)
and a piece of top
rail for chain link
fence as the
spindle to support
the roll.
c. Pull plastic off the roll and walk with it down
the side of the tunnel until you reach the
opposite end.
d. Throw several ropes from the opposite side
over the tunnel and loop each of them around
tennis balls embedded in the plastic. These
will serve as pull points.
e. If possible, position a person at every rope
and another on the opposite side of the tunnel
from each of them.
f. Position a ladder at each end with a person
atop each of them.

www.johnnyseeds.com 38 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
3. Pulling the plastic:
a. When everyone is ready,
give the word, and raise
the plastic up and over the
tunnel, aligning it evenly
on both sides.
b. Install a section of Poly
Latch wire (maybe 2 ft.) at
the peak of one end of the
tunnel.
c. At the opposite end, pull
the film tight lengthwise
down the top of the tunnel
and install a small section
on that end.
d. Then, working together
and at opposite ends of
the tunnel, Poly Latch wire
the plastic downward from
the peak to the hipboard
on one side of the tunnel,
pulling the plastic taught
lengthwise evenly as you
go. Then, repeat for the
opposite side.

www.johnnyseeds.com 39 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
4. Roll-up sides (part 2):
a. Lay the assembled EMT on the loose
plastic at the bottom of one side of the
tunnel. Wrap it around the EMT evenly and
secure in place with Snap Clamps every
two feet or so. Adjust the Snap Clamps as
necessary, removing any wrinkles in the
plastic and ensuring that the EMT is parallel
to the baseboards. Repeat for the opposite
side of the tunnel.
b. Install phillips self-drilling tek screws
through all the Snap Clamps, into the EMT.
c. Trim the plastic as necessary. Trim it
carefully at the ends because it can cause
bunching, uneven rolling, and uneven
venting.
d. Hand Cranks: Some adapters come with
each Hand Crank for other sizes of pipe;
you will not need them for this installation.
Hold the Sidewall Hand Crank's drive shaft
next to end of the long EMT assembly and
make a mark even with the holes in the
drive shaft. With a 1/4" bit, drill through both
walls of the EMT at that mark. Insert the
drive shaft into the EMT and ream through
with the same bit. Secure with the hex bolt
and nylock nut provided with the kit. Attach
the handle to the spindle on the end of the
hand crank.
e. Guide Rail: Hold a 10 ft. piece of 3/4" EMT
up to the corner of the tunnel where one of
the hand cranks will be located. Make a
mark 2' above the top of the hipboard. Cut it
to length. Slide the EMT assembly up
against the baseboards of the tunnel and
insert the cut piece of EMT through the
roller guides in the hand crank and drive it
into the ground at least a foot. When
finished, it should be at least 6" taller than
the top of the hipboard.
f. Turn the handle of the hand crank and take
up some of the plastic until the roll is 12" off
the ground. The mechanism will
automatically hold the plastic at any height
where you release it. Check for evenness
along the length of the tunnel. Roll back
down and adjust snap clamps as
necessary. Repeat. When satisfied, roll all
the way up. These take some tweaking, but
once adjusted, they work very well.
g. Repeat steps 4.b. through 4.f. for the
opposite side of the tunnel.

www.johnnyseeds.com 40 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
5. Poly Latch Wire:

a. Roll the sides up so they are each about

12" off the ground and putting tension on
the main sheet of plastic.

b. Starting at one end, have two workers

install Poly Latch wire concurrently on the
hipboards at both sides of the tunnel,
working opposite of each other as they
make their way down the tunnel. This will
serve to tighten the plastic evenly and help
prevent wrinkling. You should see the
plastic tighten up nicely.

6. Lacing:
a. Pre-drill a 1/4" hole in the Poly Latch wire channel
centered between each of the bows, plus one extra
hole at each end of the Poly Latch wire channel on the
hipboard. Do not drill into the hipboard itself.
b. Using a large 12-point socket and a ratchet driver,
install screw eyes into each of the holes.
c. At the end of the hipboard, assemble a spool of
parachute cord between two garden forks with a piece
of 1/2" EMT as the spindle.
d. Thread the parachute cord through all of the screw
eyes. When you reach the end, pull the cord down and
tie off on the J-bolt at the bottom of the endwall bow.
e. Working back towards the spool, pull the parachute
cord down and over the J-bolt at each bow.
f. Leaving some excess, cut the cord, and tie off
temporarily to the J-bolt near the spool.
g. From the opposite end, start taking up the slack and
tensioning the lacing. When you reach the end of the
tunnel near the spool, tie off using a trucker's hitch to
further tension the lacing (see next page for
illustration).

www.johnnyseeds.com 41 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
 h. Repeat steps 6.a. through 6.g. for the opposite side of the tunnel.

A Trucker's Hitch is used to tension lacing on the roll-up sides.

The 14' Gothic High Tunnel is now complete!

www.johnnyseeds.com 42 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL
The Gothic High Tunnel in Operation:

www.johnnyseeds.com 43 7300.999Rev2.23/23/15AL