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Summary of The Finite Amplitude Wave Theory

The document summarizes different wave theories: 1) Small amplitude wave theory (Airy) assumes linearized motions. Finite amplitude theory is more complex with additional parameters like H/d and H/L. 2) Stokes wave theory relaxes Airy assumptions for somewhat greater amplitudes, producing sharper crests and flatter troughs. 3) Solitary waves have profiles entirely above the still water level with no period in very shallow water. Cnoidal wave theory applies at intermediate depths. 4) Stream function theory improves on Stokes waves by fully satisfying seabed conditions and relating surface shape and pressures below.

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Theeva Raj
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238 views2 pages

Summary of The Finite Amplitude Wave Theory

The document summarizes different wave theories: 1) Small amplitude wave theory (Airy) assumes linearized motions. Finite amplitude theory is more complex with additional parameters like H/d and H/L. 2) Stokes wave theory relaxes Airy assumptions for somewhat greater amplitudes, producing sharper crests and flatter troughs. 3) Solitary waves have profiles entirely above the still water level with no period in very shallow water. Cnoidal wave theory applies at intermediate depths. 4) Stream function theory improves on Stokes waves by fully satisfying seabed conditions and relating surface shape and pressures below.

Uploaded by

Theeva Raj
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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By: Theevashini Thankaraj, 19779

SUMMARY OF THE FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVE THEORY.

Small amplitude wave theory- Airy (1845)


- it can be applied for all ranges of d/L. This theory was based on the premises that
motions are sufficiently small to allow the free surface boundary condition to be
linearized.
Finite amplitude wave theory
- Its complicated due to relative importance of the additional parameters namely H/d
and H/L.
- Its classified depending on d/L (Keulegen (1950)).

Types of waves
- Airy waves
- Stokes waves
- Cnoidal waves
- Solitary waves

1. Stoke waves theory


- The small amplitude airy theory was developed for waves of somewhat greater
amplitude to be called as Stokes higher order theory developed by Stokes (1847).
- Such waves are irrotational.
- As the ratio H/L increases, the crest becomes sharper and the through flatter than
airy wave. This has the effect of raising the median height relative to the SWL.

2. Solitary wave theory


- In very shallow waters wave crests become peaked and trough flattened. The surface
profile is entirely above the SWL in the case of solitary waves.
- The wave is not periodic and has no definite wave length.
- Boussinesq (1872) derived the characteristics of the solitary wave, in shallow water
depth, directly from the general equation for steady flow.
- Solitary wave has proved useful in engineering problems such as the study of very
long waves like tsunamis and in determining wave properties near breaking in
shallow water and for studying waves of maximum steepness in deep water.
- Under such conditions the wave characteristics are independent of L and T depends
only on H and d.
- The total energy is evenly divided between kinetic and potential energy.
- The pressure beneath a solitary wave depends on local fluids velocity, as does the
pressure under a Cnoidal wave.

3. Cnoidal wave theory


- In cnoidal wave theory first described by Korteweg and derives (1895) is applicable
1 1
over the range < < 10 however, both the stoke wave theory and the solitary
50
wave theory are valid over a portion of this same range.
2
- Cnoidal wave theory is valid for Ursells parameter, > 26
3
- As the wavelength becomes long and approaches infinity, cnoidal wave theory
reduces top the solitary wave theory
- As the ratio of wave height to water depth becomes small
- Wave characteristics are described in parametric form in terms of the modules k of
the elliptic integrals.

4. Stream function theory


- Although the stokes waves satisfy the basic Laplace equation and the sea bed
boundary conditions are not fully satisfied.
- The components of flow at the surface are not necessarily in accordance with the
shape of the surface and its motions, nor is a restriction placed on the pressure
immediately below the free surface.

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