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Materials

This document lists materials and essential aroma chemicals used for compounding fragrances. It includes naturals like violet, iris, orange blossom, and fig extracts as well as synthetics like ionones, aldehydes, and oriental base notes. Key materials for oriental accords include amber accords built around bergamot, vanillin, coumarin, and civet and mellis accords with benzyl salicylate, patchouli, clove, and lily of the valley. It also lists 100 essential aroma chemicals color coded by importance, with citral, citronellol, linalool, and methyl benzoate among the most frequently and heavily used.

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526 views

Materials

This document lists materials and essential aroma chemicals used for compounding fragrances. It includes naturals like violet, iris, orange blossom, and fig extracts as well as synthetics like ionones, aldehydes, and oriental base notes. Key materials for oriental accords include amber accords built around bergamot, vanillin, coumarin, and civet and mellis accords with benzyl salicylate, patchouli, clove, and lily of the valley. It also lists 100 essential aroma chemicals color coded by importance, with citral, citronellol, linalool, and methyl benzoate among the most frequently and heavily used.

Uploaded by

EgregorLucic
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Materials

Violet
Irisone Alpha 90% Givaudan [alpha ionone + isomers]
Alpha Ionol
Alpha Ionone [Ionone Extra BHT]
Beta Ionone [natural, pure]
Isoraldeine 95 Givaudan [alpha isomethyl ionone, n-methyl ionone]
Alpha Methyl Ionone
Undecavertol Givaudan [violet decenol]
Velvetone 470 [alpha dimethyl ionone]
Aldehydes

Orris
Ehtyl Myristate Natural [myristic acid]
Iris-OA [boisiris Givaudan, physeol]
Irisone Alpha 90% Givaudan [alpha ionone + isomers]
Orivone IFF [orris hexanone]
Orris Fixative
Ionones (esp. methyl ionones)
- Iris Silver Mist focuses on Irival

Orange Blossom
Aurantiol
Methyl Antranilate
Nerolin Bromelia [methyl eugenol]
Indole
Lynalyl Anthranilate
Nerolione Symrise
Aldehydes

Fig

Stemone (less) Flash Point: 203.00 °F. TCC ( 95.00 °C. )


Gamma Octalactone (more) Flash Point: 230.00 °F. TCC ( 110.00 °C. )
Ethyl Maltol (added for ripe fig)
Datilat (fruit)
- with Hedione (Flash Point: 235.00 °F. TCC 113.00 °C ) and Iso E Super Flash Point: (232.00 °F.
TCC 111.11 °C. )

Oriental

Historically modern oriental fragrances are roughly divided in two groups in terms of their formula:
those that are based on the "ambreine" accord and those based on the "mellis" accord. The "ambreine
accord" is a harmonious blend constructed through the juxtaposition of fresh bergamot, sweet vanillin
(ethyl vanillin which is 4 times more potent can also be used), coumarin (smelling like mown hay),
and warm civet, plus woody notes and rose essences. The "mellis accord" on the other hand is
constructed through the tension between benzyl salicylate (a compound with a faint sweet-floral-
veering-into-musky scent, often included in "beach/suntan lotion" smells), patchouli, spicy clove (via
eugenol) and lily of the valley (traditionally via the aromachemical hydroxycitronellal). This is
boosted with other spices (notably cinnamon), woody notes and coumarin (a crystal derived from
tonka beans).
Essential ACs (Bartlett) - those for the first order in bold

Red coloured items are worth buying in a slightly larger quantity because they tend to be used often or
in larger amounts. The two in orange are worth buying plenty of because they are the most frequently
and heavily used of all.

100 Essential Aroma Chemicals

Aldehyde C10 3
Aldehyde C11 2
Aldehyde C12 lauric 2
Aldehyde C12 MNA 2
Aldehyde C14 (gamma Undecalactone) Peach Aldehyde 2
Aldehyde C16 (Ethyl Methyl Phenyl Glycidate) Strawberry Aldehyde 2
Aldehyde C18 (gamma Nonalactone) Coconut Aldehyde 2
Aldehyde C8 4
Allyl Amyl Glycolate 4
Ambrettolide 3
Ambrocenide / Ambermax 50 4
Ambrofix or Ambroxan 1
Amyl Acetate 4
Amyl Salicylate 2
Anisaldehyde 2
Aurantiol 1
Benzaldehyde 3
Benzyl Acetate 3
Benzyl Salicylate 1
Calone 1
Cashmeran 2
Castoreum Replacement 1% 1
Cedramber 1
Cinnamic Aldehyde 2
Cinnamyl Alcohol 4
Cis Jasmone 3
Cis-3-Hexenol 3
Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate 2
Citral 4
Citronellol 4
Civet Replacement 0.1% 1
Coumarin 2
Cyclamen Aldehyde 2
Damascone alpha 3
Dihydromyrcenol 1
Dimetol 3
Ebanol 1
Ethyl Butyrate 3
Ethyl Linalool 3
Ethyl Maltol 2
Ethyl Vanillin 4
Ethylene brassylate 1
Eugenol 4
Exaltolide 1
Farnesol 4
Fixateur 505 3
Floralozone 1
Florhydral 2
Galaxolide 50 1
Geraniol 4
Geranyl Acetate 1
Hedione 1
Helional 2
Heliotropin (or Veratraldehyde as replacement) 3
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2
Hydroxycitronellal 1
Indole (10%) 3
Ionone Alpha 1
Ionone Beta 4
Iso Bornyl Acetate 4
Iso E Super 1
Kephalis 4
Lilial 2
Linalool 4
Linalyl Acetate 1
Mandarin Aldehyde 3
Melonal 3
Methyl anthranilate 2
Methyl Benzoate 4
Methyl Ionone 1
Methyl Iso Eugenol and/or Methyl Diantilis 3
Methyl Laitone 2
Methyl Pamplemousse 4
Methyl salicylate 4
Musk Ketone 4
Nectarate 2
Nerol 3
Norlimbanol 4
Orange Power 4
Orange Terpenes / d-limonene 4
Oranger Crystals 3
PADMA (Phenylacetaldehyde Dimethyl Acetal) 3
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 3
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1
Phenylacetaldehyde (50.0% in PEA) 3
Raspberry Ketone (10%) 3
Rose Oxide 3
Safraleine 2
Sandela 1
Santaliff 2
Styrallyl Acetate 4
Terpineol Alpha 4
Tonalide 20% 3
Triplal 4
Vanillin 1
Velvione 2
Veramoss 1
Vertenex 3
Vertofix 2
Vetiveryl acetate 1

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