Adding Bust Darts To A Tee Shirt Pattern
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JSAdding Bust Darts To A Tee Shirt Pattern
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JSShirley Adams Sewing Connection and Alternatives Patterns, Addin ... http://www.sewingconnection.comldarts.
htm
Increasing Cup Size, Adding Darts
From Master Pattern 400, add darts to dartless or shapeless pattern.
There is no shape in the pattern front making it like a knit tee shirt. In woven fabrics
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and for a more shapely bust, this shape is easily added. Measure the length from your
neck-shoulder point down to your bust point. Measure the same location on pattern
front and mark the bust level (start at shoulder 5/8" stitching line~ not at paper edge).
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Cut a horizontal line from center front (CF) over to the bust point, then angle slightly
downward out to the side seam. Drop the lower front 1" for a B bra cup. For a C cup
drop it 1 1/2",2" for a D cup, etc. In other words, add 1/2" increase in length for every
cup size beyond the initial B. Keeping the center front line straight, tape the top and
bottom to a mounting paper.
At 1" to the left of the bust point will be the dart point widening out at the side seam to
the provided space.
Draw this with a ruler. 1\
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~ Fold the lower dart line up to the upper dart line. This is made easier on a
\ - table, dart point at table corner. Cut along the side seam in this folded
~ ~\
' position to eliminate excess mounting paper. When opened flat the side
. seam shape will jut out at the correct angle. You may choose to do this
shaping on a duplicate pattern front paper to use for woven fabrics, keeping
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the original for knits. L. _J
If your bust shape requires more front width, then from the bust point up to the
shoulder, slash a line and spread open 1/2 the amount of the length you added. This is
because you work with 1/2 a pattern front. The right and left width added total would
then equal the length. Repeat from bust to lower edge.
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lof2 09/17/075:25 PM
Shirley Adams Sewing Connection and Alternatives Patterns, Addin... http://www.sewingconnection.comldarts.htm
The 6 pattern sizes included here, extra small to 2X large, can be cut still smaller or
larger. Note the difference between the lines and adjust accordingly. It is not unusual
to be a combination of sizes. Feel free to blend lines by going larger in one area,
smaller in another, as is appropriate for your personal measurements.
Depending on the weight and drape of the fabric, you may elect to cut some garments larger or with a
closer fit as is appropriate for the look you are trying to achieve.
2of2 09/17/075:25 PM
