PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Highs
and
Lows
—
— This past October, WatchTime magazine had the pleas-
ure of welcoming the industry and collectors alike to our
WatchTime New York event at Gotham Hall in Manhattan.
With 31 brands participating and partners like Watch Anish,
Gear Patrol and The Wall Street Journal, we fully canvassed
the watch universe and welcomed around 1,400 guests
through Gotham’s gilded doors. WatchTime is very proud
of our show, which is a testament to hard work and coopera-
tion as a team, as it truly takes every ounce of our staff to
pull off this major production. For those of you who didn’t
join us this year, please enjoy the WatchTime New York
insert in this issue featuring editorial coverage, photos and
a special look at watches from our exhibitors.
The event weekend is fun, exhilarating and exhausting
but totally worth it! In fact, we are currently planning to
bring the concept to Los Angeles May 3rd and 4th of this
year at a really cool venue downtown. With enough space
between the two shows, we are confident in executing two
successful collector events in 2019 and bringing the world of
horology to our East and West Coast friends. Stay tuned for
more information on our LA event very soon and always feel
WatchTime New York 2018 was a huge success.
free to email us at [email protected].
One last note, in November of last year, WatchTime
said goodbye to our office manager who had been with us
for over five years. Steve Brown made the tough but ulti-
mately rewarding decision to be a stay-at-home dad. If you
have ever called our office, you likely had the pleasure of
speaking with a calm-voiced Steve who was always enor-
mously helpful whether he was booking collectors on one
of WatchTime’s reader trips or answering a subscription
question – he always gave 110 percent. We cannot express
enough gratitude for all that he did for us.

My very best,
—
Sara Orlando
Publisher
—

Steve couldn’t avoid catching the watch bug.

4
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
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e-boutique: www.bellross.com
 EDITOR’S LETTER

Hands-On
—

A unique experience for collectors: WatchTime New York 2018: Over 1,400 attendees came to see Hands-on reviews of relevant watch
WatchTime’s reader trips. (Shown here, the latest watches from 31 internationally renowned watch brands. releases. (Shown here, Bulgari’s Octo
A. Lange & Söhne in Glashütte) (Shown here, Roger Ruegger and Bremont’s Giles English) Finissimo Automatic in rose gold)

— If you are currently trying to buy the new version of the Freelance contributor Roberta Naas travelled to Milan for
“Pepsi” GMT-Master II in Oystersteel (list price $9,250), the release of a new collection from Patek Philippe for women,
undoubtedly one of the most sought-after new watch releases 19 years after the introduction of the Twenty-4. Martina Richter
of 2018, you can either spend twice as much on the secondary tested the fourth-generation Laureato from Girard-Perregaux,
market, or hope to be added to the waiting list of a retailer with and Jens Koch was able to test the new Navitimer 8 B01 chrono-
fewer than a couple of hundred people ahead of you. “It is like graph from Breitling. Logan R. Baker reviewed “the world’s first
nothing we have seen in the history of wristwatches. The same 3.0 watch,” the Hybrid Manufacture from Frederique Constant
is true for Patek Philippe sports models,” concluded Reginald here in New York. He also got his hands on the Glashütte Orig-
Brack, Executive Director, industry analyst – watches and lux- inal Senator Cosmopolite in stainless steel, which coinciden-
ury – for retail analyst NPD. And indeed, back in the early 2000s, tally was one of the hundreds of watches that were on display
you could still get a No-Date Submariner or a Sea-Dweller from at WatchTime New York in October last year. WatchTime reader
a Rolex AD. As a consequence, retail now has to learn how to Igor Milojevic was one of over 1,400 guests who benefited from
better deal with customers frustrated by the shortages, which the unique opportunity to handle some of the most exquisite
doesn’t really help when you are trying to build a sustainable watches from more than 30 brands in person: “Thank you for
relationship with a potential client. Luckily, Jens Koch man- the event that you guys have organized. The event was phe-
aged to get his hands on one of the first models to be delivered nomenal and I am looking forward to another one next year.”
with a Jubilee bracelet for an extensive review of the watch in Speaking of “next year,” we have already had the chance
this issue. to see some of the new watch releases (most of them will be
Mark Bernardo went to the Dark Side (of the Moon) for a officially introduced during SIHH in Geneva), so stay tuned for
review of Omega’s new Speedmaster “Apollo 8 edition” with photos and first impressions on WatchTime.com. We can
lunar-landscape-finished bridges and plates in this issue. He already tell you that it’s definitely going to be another fantas-
also travelled to Glashütte to visit German watchmaker Mühle tic year for watch lovers, and we’ll do everything to bring you
Glashütte for a profile. (The family-owned company is cele- as close as possible to the watches and the people who make
brating its 150-year anniversary in 2019.) Coincidentally, one and collect them, be it in the magazine, online, during events
of our readers, Atul Jethva, had just recently requested such an or by taking you directly to the manufacturers.
article, after having visited the brand with us on one of our reader
trips and having met Hans-Jürgen Mühle in person: “What a —
story his life has been, and it would be an excellent article to Roger Ruegger
read in WatchTime magazine – the underdog who continues Editor-in-Chief
to thrive. No pretentious corporate feel at all.” —

6
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 TABLE OF

Contents COVER STORY

—
38
BENEATH THE LUNAR SURFACE
By Mark Bernardo | Omega expanded its Speedmaster Dark Side of
the Moon collection with the new Apollo 8 edition, whose laser-
WATCHTIME, JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2019
engraved, skeletonized movement takes this ceramic-cased version
of the legendary Moonwatch to new aesthetic heights.

SPECIAL SECTION:
WATCHTIME NEW YORK
67
Exclusive show coverage of highlights from our 2018 WatchTime
New York event including photographs and special advertorials
spotlighting the sponsoring brands’ featured watches.

38
TESTS & REVIEWS
44
MAKE IT A PEPSI, PLEASE
By Jens Koch | We’ve waited a long time, and now it’s here – the
GMT-Master II in steel with a red-and-blue “Pepsi” bezel. We tested
one of the first models to be delivered with a Jubilee bracelet and a
new movement.

50
GLOBETROTTER FROM GLASHÜTTE
By Logan R. Baker | Travel-time watches are prized for their
straightforward functionality in today’s globalized world. The
Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in stainless steel

44 demonstrates the brand’s fundamental – and very Teutonic –

understanding of this practical luxury.

56
HYBRID HOROLOGY
By Logan R. Baker | Frederique Constant unveiled the Hybrid
Manufacture with the auspicious claim of being the “World’s First 3.0
Watch.” Does it live up to the hype?

138
NAVITIMER REBOOT
By Jens Koch | Breitling is charting new paths as it reinvents itself.
Here’s a close look at the updated Navitimer without a navigation
slide rule function.

144
CLASS REUNION

67
By Martina Richter | The fourth-generation Laureato has an
automatic caliber that Girard-Perregaux describes as its “spearhead.”
Is this brand equally adept at preserving and cultivating the design
codes of this distinctive watch?

8
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 Over time, this bronze
chronograph will age
to become as individual as
its inspiration: Carl Brashear,
WKH 86 1DY\ V ıUVW $IULFDQ
$PHULFDQ DQG DPSXWHH
Master Diver.

$ GDLO\ UHPLQGHU RI WKH SRZHU

RI KXPDQ SRWHQWLDO

Carl Brashear Chronograph

Limited Edition
 TABLE OF CONTENTS − January-February 2019

FEATURES
62
OUTLAW CONNOISSEUR
By Mark Bernardo | Antonio Jaramillo, who co-stars on FX’s
“Mayans MC,” went from selling watches to acting. But he has
continued his pursuit of horological knowledge while
assembling a small but eclectic timepiece collection.

128
GETTING A “ROUND”
By Roberta Naas | Legendary Swiss watch brand Patek Philippe
forges forward – making even greater strides in the world of
women’s mechanical watches.

132
WINDMILL IN A STORM
By Mark Bernardo | The German watchmaker Mühle Glashütte
turns 150 years old in 2019, looking back on five generations of
family stewardship through turbulent times for both Germany and
150
the watch industry.

150
TRAVELLING BACK IN TIME
Last year, WatchTime took two international groups of watch
collectors to the epicenters of Swiss and German watchmaking.
Both tours turned out to be unforgettable experiences.

DEPARTMENTS & COLUMNS

4
PUBLISHER’S LETTER

6
EDITOR’S LETTER

12
ON WATCHTIME.COM
A glimpse at what’s on our site to keep you up to date on the
132
latest watch news

16

128
WORLD OF WATCHTIME
See the global reach of WatchTime and its partners.

18
WATCHTALK
GPHG 2018 winners; timepieces from Oris, Breitling, Montblanc,
Grand Seiko, Citizen and more
156
34 FACETIME
WATCHTALK A photo mélange of readers and their watches
An inside look at Christie’s highest performing watch of 2018
158
36 THE LAST WORD
WATCHLIST Roger Ruegger talks with Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer
Annual calendar watches
ON THE COVER: The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

10
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 THE GLOBAL LEADER IN CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED WATCHES

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 REAL-TIME

on
watchtime.com
—
Visit our website for
Yellow Time Machines
While it is known for its elegant,
high-horology timepieces,
more information F.P. Journe has been

about the world of fine making its presence felt,

in its own distinctive Make It a Double
watches. To read the style, in the luxury
sports-watch arena
With the release of its dressy
Glamour Double Date collection

stories shown here, for the better part of a

decade, and the latest
– outfitted with a new exclusive
caliber, which in a rarity for the
go to watchtime.com. models in its simply named
lineSport collection, with eye-
brand is on display behind an
exhibition caseback – Tudor
catching yellow dials, feature reminds us that there’s more to
perhaps the watchmaker’s most its eclectic and growing portfolio
boldly sport-oriented watches than the sporty and mega-
to date. popular Black Bay and Pelagos
dive watch series.

TAG Heuer Fast-Tracks Precious History:

New Senna Editions Omega Seamaster 1948
Few watch brands are more closely associated In Platinum
with auto racing than TAG Heuer, so it is fit-
The Omega Seamaster cele-
ting that one of F1’s most legendary drivers has
brated 70 years at Baselworld
his legacy enshrined in a series of TAG Heuer
2018, with the release of two
timepieces. The latest models honoring three-
commemorative limited editions
time world champion Ayrton Senna are a Heuer
of 1,948 pieces in stainless steel,
02 Chronograph Automatic, with signature
based on the original 1948 Sea-
S-link bracelet, and a limited-edition version
master. As the anniversary year
of the Heuer 02 Tourbillon Chronograph.
drew to a close, Omega followed
them up with two additional
models in platinum cases with an
Frost On the Oak even more limited run: just 70
Audemars Piguet celebrated 40 years of Royal Oak for women in pieces, one for each year of the
2016 by enlisting Italian jewelry designer Carolina Bucci to design iconic watch’s existence.
a new “frosted gold” version of the iconic timepiece. This year,
AP teams again with Bucci for another special edition, this time
applying the “frosted” finish to yellow gold and adding a mirrored
dial never before seen in the collection.
Corum Rolls Out
The Barrels
Corum, innovator of the Bubble,
Golden Bridge and Coin Watch,
continues its experimental mission
with the new Lab 01 collection,
which the brand says will consist
of models “where mechanics
take precedence.” The first
releases are two barrel-shaped
limited editions meant to
commemorate Corum’s new
boutique in Macau, its first
in China.
BALHARBOURSHOPS.COM 9700 Collins Ave, Bal Harbour, Florida
 THE MAGAZINE OF FINE WATCHES

Editor-in-Chief/Managing Director Roger Ruegger Management & Administration

Managing Editor Dara Hinshaw
Senior Editor Mark Bernardo Publisher Sara M. Orlando
Editor Logan R. Baker Event Manager Minda Larsen
Art Direction/Design trurnit Publishers, Munich Office Manager Steve Brown
Contributing Writers Gisbert L. Brunner Accountant Martha Samuel
Rüdiger Bucher IT Infrastructure Terry King
Maria-Bettina Eich Subscriptions Steve Capasso
Melissa Gössling Newsstands (MCC) Ralph Perricelli
Jens Koch Newsstands (MCC) Irwin Billman
Alexander Krupp Newsstands (CMG) Sherry Kurth
Martina Richter
Neha S. Bajpai EBNER PUBLISHING GROUP
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Marco Parrillo
Photographers Nina Bauer
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MARCH 21 26
W W W. B AS E LW O R L D . C O M
 WATCHTALK

Pointing
Out
— Oris has introduced an
80th-anniversary
edition of the iconic
— To mark the eighth decade of design. Most importantly – Big Crown Pointer
production for one of the brand’s although the brand wasn’t Date in a bronze case
with a green dial
most historically-important immune to the blows the Swiss
for $2,000.
pieces, Oris has introduced a spe- industry suffered throughout the
cial anniversary Big Crown Pointer Quartz Crisis – the Big Crown
Date with a 40-mm case made of Pointer Date helped Oris stay 3 o’clock position. The date is
bronze, a fluted bezel, and a strik- afloat thanks to its functionality, displayed through an outer ring
ing green dial. Oris fans should good looks and relatively accessi- on the watch’s dial and is indi-
recall that this isn’t the first time ble price point. “In the late 1980s, cated through a red pointer hand
the brand has used bronze in a the Big Crown Pointer Date was that doesn’t disrupt dial symme-
special edition, both the original put center stage as a symbol of try like a typical date window Super-LumiNova. The sapphire
Carl Brashear diver from 2016 and Oris’s heritage and longevity,” might. While previous versions crystal has been treated with an
its 2018 chronograph sibling used Oris’s co-CEO Rolf Studer says.” used either a bright red arrow or anti-reflective coating on the
the material, as well as two previ- It played a pivotal role in helping a crescent moon to show the inside, while the caseback is made
ous iterations of the Big Crown Oris rebuild after the troubles of date, the 80th-anniversary model of hypoallergenic stainless steel
Pointer Date in bronze that were the Quartz Crisis. It sums up the uses an attractive blend between and features a window of mineral
announced at Baselworld 2018. Oris story.” the two designs as its pointer. glass to display the Sellita
The Big Crown Pointer Date The Big Crown Pointer Date The green dial on the anni- SW200-1 movement with a 38-
is a watch that has been a main- has seen quite a few different versary edition is a nice dark hour power reserve. The watch
stay for Oris since it was originally designs over its 80-year lifespan, shade that works well with the comes on a sustainably sourced
introduced for pilots in 1938. In the but its core purpose has remained multi-piece bronze case that will dark brown leather strap with a
80 years since it was first released, the same. The crown, which is change color as it develops a matching bronze buckle. The
it has lasted through multiple wars, oversized so pilots could grasp patina with age. The indexes, Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
the advent of the Quartz Crisis, it through thick gloves during numerals and hour and minutes 80th Anniversary is priced
and the cyclical flow of watch flight, is placed at the classic hands are all coated or filled with at $2,000.

18
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 OPEN TO THE PUBLIC
THURSDAY 17 JANUARY
Registration at sihh.org

th
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INTERNATIONAL
DE LA HAUTE
HORLOGERIE
14 – 17
JANUARY 2019
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SPEAKE-MARIN | URWERK
 WATCHTALK

From
Purpose
To Style:
Breitling
Premier
— Premier Chronograph
42 with Caliber 37
movement

— “We want to fish in a bigger ment-themed “Professional” pil-

pond,” Breitling CEO Georges lar by high-tech tool watches like
Kern announced to the assem- the Emergency and the ExoSpace
bled audience of international connected watch. “ ‘Land’ has been
media at the first Breitling Sum- a little forgotten in the recent past
mit, held October 22 in London. of the brand,” Kern said at his
It was a reference to Breitling’s presentation during the Summit,
initiative under the leadership “though elegance and style on
of Kern, now in its second year, land were very much a part of
to embrace other product seg- Breitling in its earlier years, as
ments and categories beyond seen with models like the original
the aviation-centric styles for Premier and the Top Time. If you
which the Swiss brand has long look back at the brand’s history,
been renowned. you’ll discover that such watches
Hence the centerpiece were worn by prominent people
announcement of the Summit, in a number of professions –
the launch of the new Premier Formula One drivers Jim Clark
collection of timepieces, which and Sir Jack Brabham, über-cool
takes its place alongside the ven- musicians like Miles Davis and
erable Chronomat family in the Serge Gainsbourg, and the most
“Land” segment of Breitling’s famous actress of her day,
four-pronged marketing strategy, Raquel Welch – all of whom
with “Air” represented by the contributed to Breitling’s sophis-
classic Navitimer and recently ticated urban image.”
The Premier collection revives a gentlemen’s dress introduced Navitimer 8; “Sea” by The Premier collection is
chronograph invented by Willy Breitling.
the Superocean and Superocean actually a revival of an elegant
Heritage; and the non-environ- gents’ model introduced by

20
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

Getting back to Bentley, it

was revealed at the Summit that
the partnership between Breitling
and Bentley Motors, initiated in
2003, will continue, albeit with
some changes, extending what
Bentley Americas CEO Christophe
Georges, who joined Kern on
stage for the product unveiling,
described as “simply the longest
and most successful partnership
between a car manufacturer and
a watch brand.” Breitling for
Bentley, which had been devel-
oped as a sub-brand with its own
design DNA, will be phased out in
favor of special Bentley-branded
editions incorporated into
Breitling’s existing product
families. The first of these is the
Premier B01 Chronograph 42
Bentley British Racing Green.
The watch, like its brethren in
the new Premier B01 family, is
Premier B01 equipped with the B01 Caliber and
Chronograph 42 features a two-register dial layout
Bentley British
and a date at 6 o’clock. The striking
Racing Green
dial in British racing green is com-
plemented by either a matching
leather strap or a sporty steel
bracelet. Bentley branding
appears in the form of the classic
founding-family scion Willy a self-winding, column-wheel- have three-register dials with winged logo on the clear sapphire
Breitling in 1943, and represents, controlled chronograph move- chronograph counters at 12 and 6 caseback and in a badge on the left
according to Kern, the most ment with a 70-hour power o’clock, small seconds at 6 o’clock side of the 42-mm stainless-steel
sublime example of Breitling reserve; the other, called Premier and date window at 3 o’clock. Dial case inscribed with “Bentley,”
watches’ evolution “from pur- Chronograph 42, is equipped options are blue or black; the which was inspired by the dash-
pose to style.” Design elements with a movement that Breitling watches are mounted on leather board of the 1929 supercharged
that define the new collection refers to as Caliber 13, a modi- straps or steel bracelets. “Blower” Bentley model.
include the grooved lines in the fied and COSC-chronometer- Simpler complications Kern says that the Premier
sides of the cases, which Breitling certified version of the rugged round out the other two “main- collection will serve as the stage
says were “inspired by speed” and reliable ETA Valjoux 7750. line” Premier models – the Pre- for much of Breitling’s vintage-
and also a clever variation on the Both watches have 42-mm stain- mier Automatic 40, with small look designs going forward, and
sportier notched bezel design of less-steel cases; the B01 models seconds at 6 o’clock, powered by that Bentley editions will fit into
the Navitimer 8 models; and the feature sapphire casebacks with the self-winding Breitling Caliber other Breitling families based on
beveled, speedometer-style hour a view of the movement. The B01 37 (based on the ETA 2895-2), in whether the cars that inspire
and minute hands. The collec- offers dials in blue and silver- a 40-mm steel case and available them are historical or modern.
tion comprises five new models – and-black “panda” colors, along with a blue, silver or anthracite It’s difficult to picture, for exam-
the most prominent of which with either nubuck or alligator dial; and the Premier Automatic ple, how Bentley branding would
answers a nagging question that leather straps or steel bracelets. 40 Day & Date, which features work in, say, a Superocean model,
many Breitling enthusiasts have In keeping with the recently the day of the week at 12 o’clock but needless to say, the concept is
harbored since last year about revamped Breitling design codes, and the date at 6 o’clock, and an intriguing one. U.S. retail
the brand’s longstanding part- the B01 models with in-house whose 40-mm steel case contains prices on the new models, which
nership with British luxury movements are distinguishable a Breitling Caliber 45 (a modified will debut in early 2019, were not
automaker Bentley Motors. from the others by their two-regis- ETA 2834-2). Both watches are available but will range from
Two of the Premier watches ter chronograph dial design, with available on nubuck or alligator approximately $4,000 for the
are chronographs. The Premier subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The leather straps and stainless-steel Automatic 40 to around $8,000
B01 Chronograph 42 contains Chronograph 42 with sourced bracelets; both movements are for models in the Chronograph
Breitling’s in-house Caliber B01, movements, on the other hand, chronometer-certified. B01 series.

21
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

Atsushi Kaneko,
Director of Seiko Watch
Corporation, accepting
the Sports Watch Prize
at the Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Genève.

Jean-Claude Biver,
non-executive President
of the LVMH Group
Watch division and
Chairman of Hublot and
Zenith, accepting the The Winners for 2018: Pascal Raffy (Owner of Bovet 1822), Jean-Claude Biver (non-executive
Special Jury Prize 2018 President of the LVMH Group Watch division, Chairman of Hublot and Zenith), Uwe
for his contribution to the Ahrendt (CEO of Nomos Glashütte), Maria and Richard Habring (CEOs and Owners of
Swiss watch industry. Habring2), Atsushi Kaneko (Director of Seiko Watch Corporation), Rexhep Rexhepi (watch-
maker and Founder of Akrivia), Nicolas Beau (Directeur International Horlogerie et Joaillerie
of Chanel), Eric de Rocquigny (Directeur International Operations & Métiers of Van Cleef
& Arpels), Laurent Dordet (La Montre Hermès CEO), Laurent Ferrier (Founder), Marco
Borraccino (Co-founder and CEO of Singer Reimagined), Pierre Jacques (President and
CEO of De Bethune)

GPHG
2018 Pascal Raffy, Owner of
Bovet 1822, winner of the
Stephen Forsey (Co-founder of Greubel Forsey), Konstantin
Chaykin (Founder), Rémi Maillat (Founder of Krayon),

—
“Aiguille d'Or” Grand Prix Christian Selmoni (Style and Heritage Director at
2018 for the Récital 22 Vacheron Constantin)
Grand Récital.

— Last November, the prizewinners of the he’s been working with during his career, Cleef & Arpels and Vacheron Constantin) and
18th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie and that allowed him to “climb to the top of Patek Philippe did not enter watches, while
de Genève (GPHG) were unveiled on the the mountain.” Kering’s Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin,
stage of the Théâtre du Léman. The Bovet The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève as well as LVMH’s Hublot, Zenith, Bulgari,
Récital 22 Grand Récital brought home the was created in 2001. To participate in the 2018 Louis Vuitton and TAG Heuer all submitted
most important award of the night. edition, watch companies were invited to sub- watches to the award. Ulysse Nardin even
At the end of the ceremony, the Special mit watches “launched on the market after chose to launch the Diver Chronometer
Jury Prize was given to Jean-Claude Biver, March 2017 and at the latest before October unofficially at the GPHG.
“for his career and his outstanding contribu- 31, 2018” for an initial fee of CHF 500 each Bulgari, after having won two awards last
tion to the Swiss watch industry.” Biver, who (approx. $500). In total, 195 watches were year (Men’s Watch Prize: Octo Finissimo
was visibly moved by receiving not only the entered; 72 made it onto the shortlist, of Automatic; Tourbillon and Escapement
award but also a standing ovation from the which 16 did end up winning an award. Rolex Watch Prize: Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
audience, said he saw himself more as a (except for its sister brand Tudor), Swatch Skeleton), and after having more watches
depositary for the prize, and that the tribute Group (except for Rado, Longines and Mido), shortlisted than any other brand this year
belonged to his “garde rapprochée,” people Richemont (except for Montblanc, Piaget, Van (Serpenti High Jewellery, Octo Finissimo

22
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
Winners
2018
1 2 3 4 5

6 7 8 9 10

1) Aiguille d’Or (Grand 9) Chronometry Watch

Prix): Bovet 1822 Prize: De Bethune
Récital 22 Grand DB25 Starry Varius
Récital Chronomètre
Tourbillon
2) Revival Prize:
Vacheron Constan- 10) Mechanical Excep-
tin Historiques tion Watch Prize:
Triple calendrier Greubel Forsey
1942 Grande Sonnerie

11 12 13 3) Innovation Prize: 11) Sports Watch Prize:

Krayon Everywhere Seiko Prospex 1968
Horizon Diver's Recreation

4) Ladies’ Watch Prize: 12) Jewelry Watch

Chanel Boy-friend Prize: Van Cleef &
Skeleton Arpels Secret de
Coccinelle
5) Ladies’ Complica-
tion Watch Prize: 13) Artistic Crafts
Van Cleef & Arpels Watch Prize:
Lady Arpels Hermès Arceau
Planétarium Robe du soir

6) Men’s Watch Prize: 14) “Petite Aiguille”

14 15 16 Akrivia Prize: Habring2
Chronomètre Doppel-Felix
Contemporain
Minute Repeater Carbon, Octo Finissimo reviewed in our October 2018 issue (“The
15) Challenge Watch
Tourbillon Automatic, Diva Finissima Minute Return of Japan’s First Hi-Beat Diver”). 7) Men’s Complication Prize: Nomos
Repeater and Lucea Tubogas Skeleton), sur- The new Challenge category, open to Prize: Laurent Glashütte Tangente
prisingly was not given an award by the jury. watches priced under CHF 4,000, instantly Ferrier Galet Annual neomatik 41
Seiko, the only Japanese company of the became the competition’s biggest category Calendar School Update
106 brands entering this year (and the win- with 35 of 195 entries, followed by the Men’s Piece
ner of the “Petite Aiguille” Prize in 2014), category and the “Petite Aiguille” category 16) Audacity Prize:
8) Chronograph Watch Konstantin
won with one of only two dive watches short- (CHF 4,000 to 10,000) with 21 entries each.
Prize: Singer Chaykin Clown
listed (the other one was the new Diver The Sports category with nine entries (of Reimagined Singer
Chronometer from Ulysse Nardin), the which six made it onto the shortlist) turned Track1 Hong Kong
Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation, which we out to be the category with the fewest entries. Edition

23
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

Only in
America
—
— When the first Grand Seiko with 30 jewels and a 72-hour
models arrived in the United power reserve. Invented by Seiko,
States in 1960, they were all but Spring Drive calibers achieve
unknown. How times have their high level of timekeeping
changed: in 2018, the Japanese accuracy (+/- 0.5 seconds per
high-end watchmaker launched day, +/- 10 seconds per month)
its first limited-edition timepiece through their use of a balance
to be sold exclusively in the U.S. wheel, electromagnetic energy
market to honor the inauguration and a quartz oscillator instead of
of the first independent Grand a traditional escapement. This
Seiko company in the world. The “Tri-Synchro Regulator” trans-
lustrous, shimmering dials of the mits energy to a classical rotor,
Limited Editions (cased in 950 which is visible, along with other
platinum, 18k rose gold, or stain- movement parts, through a clear
less steel) are enlivened by a tra- sapphire caseback. The classically
ditional Japanese painting tech- elegant dials host a date window
nique called Kira-zuri (which at 3 o’clock and a fan-shaped
translates to “sparkling paint- power-reserve indicator between
ing”), used to create the textured 7 and 8 o’clock.
backgrounds behind actors in The cases are water resistant to
Kabuki theater performances. 100 meters and magnetic resist-
Each of the three dials is subtly ant to 4,800 A/m. The platinum
different: an additional plating and rose-gold versions of the
process has been used on the dial watch are mounted on crocodile
of the platinum model for straps with three-fold, push-
increased clarity and depth, for button clasps, while the steel
example, while the dial of the model comes on a stainless-steel
stainless-steel version dazzles bracelet with additional croc
with a blue tone that is inspired, straps (one brown, one black)
Grand Seiko says, by “the clear included. The platinum watch, a
blue skies over the Sea of Japan.” limited edition of only 20 pieces,
Inside the watches’ 40-mm- is priced at $53,000. The rose-gold
diameter cases, with their dual- model, limited to 50 pieces,
curved sapphire crystals and retails for $29,500. The stainless-
Zaratsu-finished, polished sur- steel timepiece, limited to a
faces, beats the Grand Seiko slightly more accessible 558
Spring Drive 9R15/65 movement, pieces, is priced at $6,800.

24
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

Excelsior!
—
— Citizen Watch Co. announced The solid caseback features a a camouflage pattern. Cap’s red, model (like the Black Panther
its partnership with Disney and Marvel logo. white and blue shield appears as chrono, offered on a steel
Marvel at Baselworld 2018. Less Marvel’s Black Panther – aka an insignia between 7 and 8 bracelet), the spider logo appears
than a year later, the collabora- King T’Challa of Wakanda – o’clock, and a winged Avengers in the chronograph subdial at 6
tion has produced its first specially makes his presence felt on not “A” appears at 12 o’clock. o’clock. On the dial’s flange, sur-
designed, superhero-themed one but two predominantly black The Incredible Hulk, Marvel’s rounding the web-patterned dial,
timepieces – launched in front of timepieces, both with dials green-tinted powerhouse, is is a tachymeter scale highlighted
an enthusiastic crowd at New etched with a tribal pattern from known for smashing things. Thus, in red and blue.
York Comic Con. The new Citizen the high-tech jungle kingdom. the dial of the Hulk watch is dom- Finally, the whole universe of
Marvel Timepieces, eight models Both have silver, diamond- inated by a green fist “smashing” Marvel Heroes and their decades
in total, take their inspiration shaped indexes that look like the through the surface. The Arabic of history are celebrated on the
from some of Marvel’s most pop- pendants on T’Challa’s necklace, hour numerals are appropriately dial of the Marvel Heroes time-
ular characters from both the and violet colored accents that large, and tinted in green. Green piece, perhaps the option most
comics pages and the big screen – echo the look of the energy fields is also used for the stitching on appealing to old-school fans of
with dials, cases and straps evok- that emit from the Panther’s the strap, which is made of heavy the comics. The navy blue dial
ing the spirit of the Avengers, the uniform. One model is a three- buffalo leather that is likely to features a patchwork of panel
Black Panther, Captain America, hand with a panther mask motif make the wearer think of the artwork from vintage Marvel
the Hulk and Spider-Man. on the dial and a rubber strap; Hulk’s indestructible hide. Comics. Contrasting red high-
The Avengers watch pays trib- the other is a tri-compax Spider-Man, perhaps Marvel’s lights are used for the minute
ute to Marvel’s premier super- chronograph on a blackened most iconic hero, is also honored hand, the tip of the seconds
group with the iconic gold-col- steel bracelet. with two timepieces, both sport- hand, and on the blue textile
ored Avengers “A” in the center, Captain America’s background ing the red-and-blue colors of strap. All the watches are
beneath the golden luminous as a U.S. Army soldier during the web-slinger’s costume. The equipped with Citizen’s propri-
hands and red seconds hand. World War II inspired the design three-hand version comes with a etary Eco-Drive movements,
The predominantly red, black of Citizen’s Captain America black rubber strap and a blue fin- which are powered by any light
and gold color scheme seems watch, which features a 24-hour ish on the steel case. A white spi- source and thus do not require
also to evoke the armor of Iron time track and a triple date win- der web pattern spreads across battery replacements. They are
Man, who in the Marvel Cine- dow on the dial in the style of a the bright blue dial, and the also priced in a general con-
matic Universe was instrumental vintage military field watch, as hero’s spider emblem appears at sumer-friendly range between
in bringing the team together. well as a sturdy leather strap with 12 o’clock. On the chronograph $275 to $625.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

In the
— Ahead of this month’s Salon
International de la Haute Hor-
logerie (SIHH), Germany’s A.
Lange & Söhne, an SIHH main-

Lumelight
stay, has unveiled the fourth
addition to its Lumen series of
heavily luminous-treated, trans-
parent-dialed limited editions

—
that began in 2010. The new
Datograph Lumen features a fly-
back chronograph, precisely
jumping minutes counter,
power-reserve indicator and the
emblematic outsize date display The Datograph model, whose
– all highlighted in darkness by flyback chronograph mechanism
the use of a luminous compound allows uninterrupted timing of
that glows a particularly pleasant consecutive events with the push
and vibrant lime green. of a button at 4 o’clock, was
The Datograph Lumen, which launched by Lange in 1999 and
will be limited to just 200 pieces, the “Up/Down” version, with its
has a platinum case measuring dial-side power-reserve display,
41 mm in diameter. The sapphire joined the collection in 2012.
dial has a special translucent When the 6 o’clock indicator’s
coating that filters out most visi- arrow pointer enters the red area
ble light except for the UV rays of its circular display, the owner
that serve to charge the luminous knows it’s time to wind the
pigments on the various dial watch’s movement to replenish it
elements with energy. Thus, the back to its full 60-hour power
darker the watch’s surroundings, reserve. Like the Datograph
the brighter its essential details Up/Down models that preceded
glow against their background. it, the new Lumen version con-
The rhodium-plated hour and tains Lange’s in-house Caliber
minutes hands are filled with the L951.7. This manual-wound
light-activated pigment, and the movement is equipped with
central chronograph sweep- Lange’s proprietary cam-poised
seconds hand is entirely covered balance wheel, paired with a
with it. The off-centered subdials, freely oscillating Lange hair-
one for running seconds, the spring, which beats at a frequency
other for tallying chronograph of 18,000 vph (2.5 hertz). In com-
minutes, are coated with the sub- bination with the 300-marker
stance and feature blued steel minutes scale, this allows the
hands revolving above them. integrated stopwatch to perform
Surrounding the semi-transpar- time measurements accurate to a
ent sapphire center of the dial precision of 1/5-second. Like all
are a minutes scale, subdivided Lange calibers, it is lavishly deco-
into 1/5-second gradations, and rated in the classical Saxon style,
a tachymeter scale, both of which with Glashütte ribbing on the
also glow bright green in the plates and bridges, traditionally
dark. Also treated with the com- blued screws, and a hand-
pound are the little arrow hand engraved balance cock. The A.
of the “Auf-Ab” (up-down) Lange & Söhne Datograph
power-reserve indicator at 6 Up/Down Lumen is offered on
o’clock and the two separate dis- a hand-stitched, black alligator
play disks of the outsize date, strap with a platinum pronged
which recharge during the day as buckle. It will be priced at
light passes through the dial. $100,500.

26
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

The Phoenix
And the Stars
—
— Vacheron Constantin is unveil- showcase them all, both in a
ing two hyper-complicated, one- striking opaline slate gray.
of-a-kind models at SIHH this The manufacture movement,
year. Here’s your sneak peek at Vacheron’s manual-winding
the Les Cabinotiers Minute Caliber 2755, composed of an
Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart astounding 839 components and
and Les Cabinotiers Grand Com- endowed with a 58-hour power
plication Phoenix. Both unique reserve, ticks inside an 18k rose-
pieces hail from Vacheron Con- gold case, which features two an-
stantin’s Les Cabinotiers collec- cestral engraving techniques –
tion, named for the most experi- pounced ornament (or bas-relief) repeater and the one that domi-
enced watchmakers of the 18th on the caseband and fine line nates the rear dial of the watch: a
century, the Age of Enlighten- engraving on the bezel and case- celestial sky chart depicting the
ment’s “alchemists of time” who back, combining to create a night sky above Geneva, with the
crafted extraordinary timepieces sculptural 3-D effect for the ornate Milky Way and constellations, as
by special commission. Preceded image of the legendary firebird viewed through a telescope. This
in 2017 by a grand sonnerie and that encircles the case. The watch disk spins fully on its axis every 23
a celestial grand complication, comes on a brown, hand-stitched hours and 56 minutes, corre-
this year’s Les Cabinotiers mod- Mississippi alligator strap, which sponding to sidereal time. The
els both incorporate multiple closes with a rose-gold folding concave shape of this dial accen-
complications and artisanal case clasp shaped like a half Maltese tuates the depth effect, while an
enhancements. cross and engraved with an orna- ellipse drawn on the sapphire
Inspired by the legend of the mental pattern. The one lucky crystal indicates the exact posi-
phoenix, the mythical bird that owner will have the watch deliv- tion of the constellations when
rises from its own fiery ashes to ered in a special winder box the wearer consults the watch.
represent immortality, the Les made of Macassar ebony wood, Indications for the sidereal time,
Cabinotiers Grand Complication alongside a corrector pen and a months and cardinal points com-
Phoenix packs no less than 15 magnifying glass. plete the picture. Also equipped
complications into its meticu- Whereas the Phoenix watch with Vacheron’s Caliber 2755 –
lously engraved, 47-mm rose- showcases the engraving skills of found in complicated models in
gold case. The roster includes a Vacheron’s Les Cabinotiers work- the manufacture’s Patrimony
tourbillon (with a distinctive Mal- shops, the case of the Les collection, and here enhanced
tese-cross-motif bridge), minute Cabinotiers Minute Repeater with the sky chart functions – this
repeater, perpetual calendar, Tourbillon Sky Chart – 45 mm in one-of-a-kind timepiece is mounted
power-reserve indication, sunrise diameter and made of 18k white on a black, large-square-scale
and sunset times, equation of gold – demonstrates the Geneva Mississippi alligator strap with a
time, sky chart, age and phase maison’s expertise in “invisible” white-gold clasp, and delivered
of the moon, sidereal hours and gem setting, with a baguette dia- in a Macassar ebony wood
minutes, seasons and zodiac mond-set bezel framing a black winder box. Both of the new
signs, and even a mechanism dial with diamond hour markers, unique pieces from
indicating the torque of the a central guilloché pattern and a Vacheron’s prestigious Les
repeater’s striking mechanism. Of large tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The Cabinotiers workshop are
course, this cornucopia of com- watch combines three major com- price upon request.
plications requires two dials to plications – tourbillon, minute

27
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

Unlimited enthusiast appeal. These minus-

cule details include the date win-

Update
dow at 6 o’clock being color
matched to your choice between
the charcoal gray and navy blue

— dials and the drilled 20-mm lugs

that allow for a more fluid strap-
changing experience.
— After three sold-out models Inside the watch is the work-
released in the same amount of horse ETA 2892-A2 caliber, with a
years, Oak & Oscar has left little 42-hour power reserve, that is vis-
doubt that they’re a leader in the ible through the display back.
world of American independent Water resistance is tested to 200
watchmaking. The brand recently meters for additional reliability,
introduced its fourth official release, while the sandwich dial layout
the Humboldt, that marks a that features Super-LumiNova on
series of firsts for founder Chase the bottom layer will ensure a
Fancher and his team. For the high degree of legibility wherever
Go With the Flow first time, the Humboldt is a non-
limited release and features a
you take the watch. The previously
mentioned stainless-steel

— 12-hour bi-directional bezel, that

can be used to measure elapsed
bracelet, the first time the option
has been available for an Oak &
time or a second time zone, and Oscar timepiece, was the result of
— Although it is directly influ- facing side of the watch and dis- the option of a stainless-steel 18 months of research and test-
enced by the streamlined plays hours and minutes. It’s con- bracelet. Otherwise, the Hum- ing. Built to the brand’s specifica-
appearances of mid-century nected to the movement through boldt doesn’t stray too far from tions, the bracelet has a fully
automobiles, like the Mercedes- a conical gear structure that the neo-classic design language articulated link design that grad-
Benz W196 and 1948 Buick enables the 90-degree time- that previous Oak & Oscar time- ually tapers from the 20-mm solid
Streamliner, and aircraft, like the telling mechanism. Winding and pieces, like the Sandford GMT end links to the 16-mm buckle. If
De Havilland Venom, the MB&F setting are accomplished via a and Jackson Flyback Chrono- you’d prefer to keep it classic,
HM9 Flow stands out as a differ- fluted crown located on the rear graph, had established. The sand- there’s also the option for Ameri-
ent sort of mechanical beast. It of the central body. What MB&F wich dial, after being noticeably can-made Horween leather. A
follows closely in the spirit of describes as “two satin-finished absent on the Jackson, makes a highly-breathable nylon strap
previous Horological Machines air scoops” are mounted next to triumphant return and the color- comes with each model and fea-
like the HM4 Thunderbolt and the domed flanks containing the ways, with ample usage of blue, tures custom orange stitching.
HM6 Space Pirate through its balance wheels. This is meant to gray and orange, continue over The watches are priced at $1,750
complex combination of a milled recall the raised vents found on from the previous editions. The on the bracelet and $1,550 on
sapphire crystal and a titanium high-performance motor engines. Humboldt features the kind leather and come with a
case, yet represents a whole new The totally in-house-devel- of detail we’ve come to strap-changing tool
design language for Max Büsser oped movement offers a 45-hour expect from Oak & and a waxed canvas
and his cohorts. power reserve courtesy of its sin- Oscar, solidifying its watch wallet that
At first glance, the HM9 more gle barrel and took over three standing as a was built in
closely resembles a jet engine, years to produce. The case, made brand driven by Chicago.
with its blend of alternating pol- of grade-5 titanium, uses a three-
ished and satin finishes and part construction with over 40
space-age look, than any sort of components. Its total dimensions
timepiece, but it is a wristwatch arrive at 57 mm by 47 mm by 23
and a fantastically ingenious one mm. Two iterations are now
at that. Dueling balance wheels available: the “Air” model with a
that operate independently of dark movement and aviator-
each other are found on each side esque dial design, and the
of the watch underneath domes “Road” version that has a rose-
of sapphire crystal. The central gold-plated movement and
body of the watch houses this speedometer-style dial. Both
unique movement with a differ- models come on a hand-stitched
ential that averages the output of brown calf-leather strap with a
both balance wheels. Acting as a custom-designed titanium fold-
hybrid drivers’ wristwatch, the ing buckle and are priced at
dial is located on the inward- $182,000, not including tax.
 WATCHTALK

Pioneering Style
—
— Is there such thing as an spring that offers a three-day has been specced to a water
entry-level tourbillon? Just a few power reserve. It’s sized at 42.8 resistance rating of 120 meters.
years ago the concept would mm in diameter and 10.8 mm in Inside the watch is the auto-
have been laughable, but thanks height, without considering the matic HMC 804 manufacture
to rapid advances in manufactur- domed sapphire crystal. The case caliber with a solid 18-karat red
ing, we’ve been able to see differ- features structured sides that are gold oscillating weight that uses
ent tourbillon models approach finished with a vertical fluting a bi-directional pawl winding
the realm of general accessibility. that has become a recognizable system to reduce the time need-
This year at SIHH, H. Moser & trait of the sporty Pioneer line. ed to wind the watch to its maxi-
Cie. is tossing its hat into the ring The dial features Moser’s recog- mum three-day power reserve.
of approachable tourbillons with nizable dégradé-style fumé col- The new model comes on either
the Pioneer Tourbillon, a new oration in midnight blue with a black alligator leather strap or,
model intent on making the clas- luminous indexes and hands all to enhance the sportier appeal, a
sic complication more wearable surrounded by a 42.8-mm stain- black rubber strap. The H. Moser
than ever before. The Pioneer less-steel case. Thanks, in part, to & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon is lim-
Tourbillon features a flying tour- the addition of a screw-down ited to 50 total pieces and is
billon with a double flat hair- crown, the Pioneer Tourbillon priced at $49,900.

Peripheral Aura Bucherer boutique opened

in 1888, not far from the
minute and drives a hand that dis-
plays the running seconds. Above

—
current location. it, rose-gold-plated, diamond-
From a technical standpoint, shaped applied indexes and gold-
Caliber CFBT3000 (for which two plated lancet hands indicate the
— Carl Friedrich Bucherer in-house-developed Caliber CFB patents have been filed) offers time, surrounded on the dial’s
established his first watch and T3000, which is self-winding by other attributes: it uses low- periphery by milled rings that
jewelry boutique in the Swiss means of a peripheral rotor and friction, antimagnetic silicon for accentuate the dial’s somewhat
city of Lucerne in 1888, making incorporates a tourbillon cage the escapement’s pallet and concave design. The tourbillon’s
2018 the 130th anniversary of his that is also supported peripher- escape fork, dispensing with the construction, according to CFB,
eponymous company, which in ally, by three ceramic ball bear- need for lubrication, an efficiency not only makes for a more stable
1919 also began making its own ings. In this version, the move- that increases the power reserve connection and smoother running,
luxury timepieces. With the ment bridge, which covers near- to 65 hours. It is also equipped but also makes it appear to be
release of the Heritage Tourbil- ly the entire back of the move- with a stop seconds function for floating inside the watch, with an
lon DoublePeripheral Limited ment, aside from the tourbillon easy synchronization with a time unhindered view from both above
Edition, the modern Carl F. cage, is crafted from 18k white signal. And for those who value and below, while the ball bearings
Bucherer watch brand pays an gold and hand-engraved with an optimum precision, it has earned themselves remain hidden from
impressive homage to both its illustration of the Lucerne a COSC chronometer certifica- view. The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage
watchmaking history and to the cityscape. The engraving, which tion. The tourbillon cage domi- Tourbillon DoublePeripheral
ancient baroque city of its ori- requires more than two weeks of nates the lower part of the silver, Limited Edition is mounted on a
gins. Limited to just 88 pieces (a painstaking, detail-oriented sunburst-finished dial, in a large dark brown Louisiana alligator
reference to the year of the firm’s work by a master craftsman, is aperture at 12 o’clock, where it strap with an 18k gold folding pin
founding), the watch has a 42.5- highlighted by the large central rotates on its own axis once every buckle. The price is $88,888.
mm-diameter case made of 18k image of the Lucerne bridge, the
rose gold, with a domed, non- city’s iconic symbol. Even more
reflective sapphire crystal over noteworthy, each of the 88
the dial, an additional sapphire pieces is by definition unique
window in the caseback and because of another special detail
water resistance of 30 meters. in the 3D depiction of Lucerne –
Through that crystal-clear case- a swan, the position of which
back, one can view the stunning- differs slightly in each piece,
ly decorative movement, a spe- which symbolizes Lucerne’s
cially embellished version of Schwanenplatz (“Swan Space”),
Bucherer’s recently released, the square where the first

29
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

A Star is (Re) Born:

Montblanc Updates
The Star Legacy
Collection
—

— Since its acquisition of the

venerable, historically signifi-
cant Minerva manufacture in
2009, Montblanc has been
embracing that Swiss watch-
maker’s rich history in its
ongoing mission to move beyond
its renowned role as a purveyor
of fine writing instruments
and stake its claim among
the top-tier maisons of high
watchmaking.
This year, Montblanc turns
its attention to its Star Legacy Clockwise from left: Star
collection, which the brand Legacy Nicolas Rieussec
describes as inspired by “the spirit Chronograph; Star Legacy
of classical watchmaking,” enli- Full Calendar; Star Legacy
Automatic Date
vening the latest models with
historical details echoing those
of early Minerva pocketwatches
and wristwatches, and adding letteria in Florence, Italy. Two The other new Star Legacy resemble Rieussec’s 19th-centu-
some contemporary flair as well. complications are offered timepieces hail from Mont- ry invention, are housed in 44.8-
Three new models in the among the three new watches: blanc’s Nicolas Rieussec family mm-diameter cases, one in rose
Star Legacy collection feature an automatic with a date indica- of luxury chronographs, named gold, the other in steel, and
stainless-steel cases and dials tion, in a small round window at for the French inventor of the topped by sleek anthracite dials.
with vintage-inspired Roman 6 o’clock, available in two case first “time writer,” a proto- The dial’s hour circle, hands, and
hour numerals in black. The sizes, 39-mm and 42-mm diam- chronograph that used ink to chronograph counters are fin-
dials’ blued hands are designed eter; and a full calendar, with a measure the running times of ished to match the tones of the
to harmonize with the blue sfu- pointer-style date display and a race horses in the 1800s. The case for an elegant, unified look –
mato leather straps, which are moon-phase at 6 o’clock, in a newest models in this series, rose-gold coated on the gold
made at Montblanc’s own pel- 42-mm case. whose dials are designed to watch, silvery-white on the steel.

30
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

A Reason
To Celebrate
—

— Frederique Constant marked its 30 years of 28,800 vph. The movement’s classic decora-
existence with a new limited edition that tion features both côtes de Geneve and per-
combines its three decades of watchmaking lage. On the front side of the dial, the watch is
experience with its longtime pursuit of segmented into three indicators – day of
“Accessible Luxury.” The new Limited Edition week, month, leap year and date – with an
Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture opening for the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. At
was unveiled in Paris at the end of September launch, the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon
The self-winding move- 2018 and is the most complex timepiece the Manufacture is split into four different ver-
ment, Montblanc’s manufacture brand has released yet. The 42-mm watch sions, with your selection of either a plated
Caliber MB R2000, which utilizes the expertise that Frederique Constant rose-gold or stainless-steel case, and either a
endows the Rieussec model with gained when producing its Manufacture skeletonized dial or one with subtle guil-
its monopusher chronograph Tourbillon in 2008 and its Perpetual Calendar loché-inspired detailing. Prices start at
function, is equipped with a from 2016. $19,995 for the closed-dial model in stainless
rose-gold rotor, a column wheel The new FC-975 manufacture caliber steel and go up to $32,995 for the 18k rose-
to drive the stopwatch, and a 72- features a silicon escapement wheel and an- gold-plated model with a skeletonized dial.
hour power reserve. Prices for chor (Frederique Constant was an early pro- All models other than the skeleton, rose-gold
the new Star Legacy models will ponent of the benefits of silicon technology) model – which is limited to 30 pieces – are
be announced at SIHH 2019. with a 38-hour power reserve and a rate of limited to 88 pieces.

31
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

The dial and movement view

of the Leica L1 watch

Leica’s New Look

— by Logan R. Baker

— Leica has long enjoyed the status of one of most well- for the brand by Lehmann Präzision GmbH out of
regarded camera producers in the world. Its wide variety of Germany’s Black Forest that offers a number of intriguing
makes and models have a cult following thanks to their features such as a date controlled by a pusher and a push-
high level of German craftsmanship, the unmatched qual- piece crown that resets the seconds subdial to zero and
ity of their lenses that are constructed of metal and glass enables the time-setting mechanism thanks to a column-
rather than plastic, and the purity found in their pursuit of wheel mechanism. The meticulous approach that Leica is
manual photography. In 2018, the brand announced an known for in their camera production has translated
intriguing new product line into its portfolio of high-tech seamlessly to their watches with plenty of callbacks to their
offerings that includes cameras, microscopes and now, camera models and fine details galore. We recently sat
luxury watches. The time-and-date-only Leica L1 and the down with the Chairman of the Board for Leica Camera,
Leica L2 GMT were the first two limited-edition watches to Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, and Jérôme Auzanneau, the Global
be introduced and feature a level of horological proficiency Director of Lifestyle and Accessory for Leica, to learn more
far beyond what you’d expect from an initial offering. about the brand’s horological efforts, what the future
Unlike previous timepieces that featured Leica branding, might hold for Leica’s timepiece division and the crossover
the L1 and L2 are powered by an exclusive movement built appeal between photographers and watch collectors.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

LRB: Can you discuss the development of the Leica L1 and them are blocked somewhere [in the] supply chain, oh
L2 GMT? my god.
AK: Leica would sometimes look into watches. There JA: Design-wise, you see the precision of these move-
were different reasons for it, but one was that we are in ments as a challenge. [In our watches], the power-reserve
precision mechanics anyway. The first serious approach indicator works like a shutter. If you put too much paint,
was [a limited edition] in 2013-14 with a small house you block the system. The watch industry doesn’t know
from Geneva, Valbray. At this time, around 2013, I decided about it. It took us a few weeks to realize the thickness of
we have to go differently. Because when Leica does a the paint was actually blocking the system.
watch that is true to its heritage, it should be different. AK: Also, if you have to rely on Swiss companies for the
German design, that’s a given, but the tricky part is doing production of hands ... there are only a few companies
a new movement in Germany. We found an interesting who can do it and they are also usually blocked by others.
company based in the Black Forest to partner with, a So [ours] were done in-house by Lehmann. The good
company called Lehmann. They do a small amount of thing is with our partner (Lehmann), we invested into part
watches by themselves but are also suppliers to the watch of his factory for dial production, so soon we will be able
industry. But first, we had a mechanical designer, who to do it completely on our own. So we’re not relying on
was formerly one of the mechanical designers for A. the Swiss supply chain there. That also means you can
Lange and Söhne, and he invented the push-craft [crown] change things rather easily. Usually when you order
for us. We have two patents on it. This is also, I would say, something [from the] Swiss they say, “Three months.” And
an interesting step for a company who was in fine then it comes and you say, “Oh, this is wrong.” They say,
mechanics but not so much in watches, to do something “Oh, we'll do it again.” Another three months pass. [Now],
a little bit different. Being able to set the second to zero this is six months delayed for the markets. That’s what we
makes sense in a way because we can adjust [the time] learn. We didn’t know that when you need to order some-
much more precisely. Also, the push element for the date thing from Switzerland, some of the suppliers get nasty.
makes sense because you always miss it, or when you let JA: But you see how for the first attempt, Leica is going
it lie down somewhere, the date will always be wrong into vertical integration as a manufacture more so than
[when you pick it back up]. most renowned [brands]. For example, our hands:
in-house design, in-house production, in-house fitting.
LRB: Why do you think there is so much crossover appeal This we would not outsource. The trend over the last 20
between watch enthusiasts and photographers? years in Switzerland has been vertical integration; here at
AK: I wouldn't call it synergy, but there’s a relationship, I Leica, it’s done right from the beginning.
would say, based on certain design elements. For Leica, AK: One thing which can’t be done is the sapphire glass.
it’s a watch that you won’t find anywhere else. And for JA: Sapphire glass, and the escapement. Like everybody.
certain people, that can make a lot of sense.
JA: For photography, there is always this connection to LRB: How often will you be releasing new models? Will it
time. Always. The connection to how you know the prod- be once a year, every few years?
ucts were invented, engineered and produced, all the AK: Well, hopefully next year there will be a third. Which
same. The aesthetics, the same. It’s what a collector would will be a huge step, so fingers crossed. It comes with the
be after. mechanics, then you do the renderings, you do the design
and you go and do the prototype process. Then suddenly
LRB: Who do you believe is the Leica watch customer? Is it you find something out, then you go back to renderings, et
pre-existing watch enthusiasts or are you attracting the cetera. Apart from that, we have quite a few ideas. And we
Leica Camera customer that might not have a timepiece probably know how to do it, but it would be a bit early to
and elevating them into the luxury watch bracket? talk about it. Two things are quite obvious. This is not self-
AK: I think the Leica customer we’re thinking of already winding, so what would be the next step?
has quite a few watches. So there’s probably an overlap,
but the appeal has a sort of crossover with people who LRB: An automatic movement.
might have heard of Leica, but are not into cameras, but AK: You said it. And at the moment, these watches are
are into small-production watches. I would say only 10 only for males.
percent of our customers are collectors. Which means
they collect quite a few things like cars, cameras and even LRB: Can you tell me anything else about the upcoming L3
watches. So there’s a sort of [natural] overlap. with alarm?
AK: Well, there’s one simple goal, the alarm should have a
LRB: What has surprised you about the watch industry? melodious sound. It should sound nice to the ear. They’re
Has there been anything that you didn't expect, or any working on it now. We’ll know more probably in April or
issues that came along the way that were totally new? May when the first prototype can be checked.
AK: Since we’ve worked on this project, since 2013, JA: The sound of a Leica is a very specific sound. It’s a
there were certain things we already knew theoretically. mechanical sound. So here again, a new invention. Just
But when you, for instance, suddenly find out that there taking this idea of having a camera, which is either silent
are only a few producers of sapphire crystal and most of or the sound of the shutter. That’s the goal.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 WATCHTALK

An Inside Look at Christie’s

Highest Performing Watch
Of 2018
—
What caused a Serpico y
Laino-signed Patek Philippe Ref.
2499 to blow past its estimate and
reach $3.3 million?

by Sabine Kegel,
International Senior Specialist,
Christie’s Watches

— When the Serpico y Laino Ref. 2499 sold for CHF 3,252,500 (almost
$3.3 million) in our Nov. 12, 2018, Rare Watches sale, it not only
became the highest price achieved for Christie’s watches in 2018, it
also set a new benchmark in my personal passion for complicated
Patek Philippes from the 1950s.
This impressive first series Patek Philippe reference is distinguished
by its superb original condition, and, most notably, the signature
SERPICO Y LAINO, CARACAS. To date, no other Ref. 2499 retailed by
Patek Philippe’s representative in Venezuela, Serpico y Laino, is
known to exist. Given the extraordinary price it achieved, let us con-
sider each of the elements that made this watch truly exceptional –
and extraordinarily valuable.

Reference 2499 – Patek Philippe’s Benchmark Grand Complication

Widely acknowledged as one of the most important watch models ever
created, Ref. 2499 has strongly influenced the designs of many of the
The Patek Philippe world’s most renowned brands. Introduced to the market in 1950, it
Ref. 2499, First replaced the legendary Ref. 1518, the world's first perpetual calendar
Series; Retailed By wristwatch with moon-phase and chronograph made in series. The
Serpico y Laino, dial design used for the Ref. 1518 continued in later references and still
Caracas; Manufac- does to date. It has the now classic layout of two windows for day and
tured in 1952; Sold
by Christie's Geneva month in the upper half, the subsidiary chronograph registers at 3 and
(Lot 234) on Nov. 12, 9 o’clock, and moon-phase and date at 6 o’clock. For nearly 50 years,
2018, for CHF Patek Philippe was the only watch manufacture producing such a
3,252,500 complicated timepiece.

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 WATCHTALK

Rarity – Only 349 Watches Made in 35 Years

Over a period of 35 years, Ref. 2499 was produced in four series with
a total run of only 349 pieces. The first series Ref. 2499 is generally
acknowledged as the rarest and most desirable model. Its production
was started by the same master watchmakers when the last examples
of Ref. 1518 were finished, resulting in a smaller production number
than the following three series produced on their own. The 13’’’ 130 movement
is based on a Valjoux
base ébauche.
Retailer Signatures
Only a small group of retailers – companies who were or still are promi-
nent in their country or region – are allowed to add their name to a
Patek Philippe dial. The most famous is arguably Tiffany & Co., a name
that still appears on some of the firm’s watches today. dial shows minor spotting from age but has preserved its original finish,
The Ref. 2499 sold in the Nov. 12, 2018, auction in Geneva is the only highlighted by the accent over the second ‘E’ in Genève, and the raised
known example, all four series combined, to feature the signature hard enamel signature and scales. The color has changed over time to a
‘Serpico y Laino Caracas’ on the dial and the stamp “S.&L. 18K” on charismatic ivory tone, further underlining its untouched condition.
the caseback.
The firm Serpico y Laino was founded in 1925 by two young Italian A Remarkable Find
immigrants, Leopoldo Serpico, a jeweler, and Vicente Laino, a gold- This first series Ref. 2499 was a sensational and significant discovery in
smith. With wealth levels in the country rising on the back of the post- the world of collecting vintage watches. Originally purchased by the
WWI oil boom, Serpico y Laino set about looking for goods to sell to the consignor’s late father in the early 1960s, it was entirely fresh to market
newly affluent sections of the population. before the November 12 sale. To date, no other Ref. 2499, all four series
Initially focusing on jewelry, the duo soon expanded into watches combined, that was retailed by Patek Philippe’s retail partner in
and became the exclusive distribution agent for Rolex in Venezuela in Venezuela, is known to exist. The rarity is furthermore enhanced by the
the 1930s. Shortly after, other brands were added and the firm was fact that this is the earliest identified Ref. 2499 case produced by
appointed the sole authorized retailer for Patek Philippe in the country. Wenger, the notable case supplier, so far.
In 1966, after 40 years of flourishing business, Serpico y Laino closed Just like many watches, this model’s provenance is an embodiment
its doors as the leading watch retailer in Caracas. of the late owner’s hard work. He left his home country of Italy as a
young man in the early 1950s to immigrate to Venezuela, just as the
Superb Original Condition founders of Serpico y Laino had, some three decades earlier. After diffi-
In today’s vintage watch market, condition is of utmost importance. cult early years, he prospered in his retail business and his dream came
The more original the condition of a timepiece, the greater its appeal true in the form of the present watch. It is unknown if it was purchased
to collectors. directly from his compatriots at Serpico y Laino or from a possible first
This first series 2499 ‘Serpico y Laino’ has not undergone any cos- owner, but it was undoubtedly his treasure, carefully kept and cher-
metic enhancements or cleaning on the dial; its case is unpolished. The ished for nearly 60 years.

The case and dial of the

model are completely
free of any cosmetic
enhancements
like polishing.

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 WATCHLIST

by Logan R. Baker

Happy
New Year
—
— The Annual Calendar is often thought of as the less glamorous sibling to the
more complicated perpetual calendar. Knowing how particular many watch
enthusiasts are, this statement might ring true to some, but it’s not all doom and
gloom for fans of this 23-year-old complication. In fact, there have been a num-
ber of releases over the past few years focused on innovative time displays and
accessible price points that have made the concept of owning an annual calen-
dar more enticing than ever before. If these six releases from 2018 are any indi-
cation, the annual calendar will be in strong standing moving forward and
should attract former naysayers and longtime admirers alike.

LONGINES
—
PATEK PHILIPPE Since the Longines Master Collection was launched
— in 2005, it could be considered the flagship of
contemporary Longines. In the past, this has been
Patek Philippe patented and released the first the home for a variety of models including classi-
annual calendar only 23 years ago, in 1996. Placed cally designed chronographs, retrograde styles,
in the middle ground between the common date perpetual calendars and moon-phase watches,
and the potent – and pricey – perpetual calendar, but last year was the first time an annual calendar
the annual calendar seemed to promise new ter- had been added. In fact, it was the first time
rain for enthusiasts, one that would provide desi- Longines had introduced an annual calendar in its
red horological “cred” without breaking the bank. 186-year history. Featuring a 40-mm stainless-
Since its introduction into the Patek portfolio, steel case, the watch is identifiable thanks to its
the annual calendar has been released in dozens dial with a stamped barleycorn motif and the date
of iterations but its most recent update, announced and month at 3 o’clock. There are four different
at Baselworld 2018, is perhaps its most appealing versions available: two with a silver-finished dial
appearance so far. The 5205G-013 takes the and either Arabic numerals or diamond indexes,
recognizable dial layout of the 5205 series, with one with a black dial and Roman numerals and a
the day, date and month spread across apertures single model with a sunray blue dial. The hands
in the upper half of the dial, and adds a vibrant are either made from blued steel or are rhodium
gradient blue dial to complement the white-gold plated. Inside the watch is Caliber L897.2 (base
case dressing with a slightly concave bezel and ETA A31.L81) that is viewable through the
pierced strap lugs. In addition to the annual exhibition caseback and has a 64-hour power
calendar functionality, there’s a moon-phase and reserve. It comes on either a stainless-steel
24-hour indicator set up in the 6 o’clock subdial. bracelet or a black, brown or blue alligator
All of this is powered by the automatic Caliber leather strap with a triple-safety folding clasp.
324 S QA LU 24H/206 with a 45-hour power The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar
reserve. Price $47,970. is priced at $2,425.

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 WATCHLIST

OCHS & JUNIOR

—
Ochs & Junior is a small Lucerne-based brand that
is fascinated with all things minimalist. This fasci-
nation translates into innovative timepieces that
depict what were once typical complications in a
new light. In the brand’s annual calendar, which
was first released in 2012 and has seen a variety of
updates since, the calendar functionality is dis-
played without any numerals in a series of dots
and rings. The month is displayed via the smaller
ring in the upper hemisphere of the dial through
LAURENT FERRIER
the 12 dots; the day of the week is seen through
the smallest ring in the lower hemisphere through —
the seven dots; finally, the date is told through the Those who watched the 2018 edition of the Grand Prix
largest ring of dots (31 in total) that runs along the d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) may have recognized a
familiar face walking away with the Men’s Complication
BLANCPAIN
periphery of the dial. It’s an intuitive display that
contradicts our long-held notion of numeral- prize at the end of the night. Laurent Ferrier, the septua-
— based timekeeping. This method even allows you
to track time to the minute by using the date
genarian Swiss watchmaker who was formerly the
Technical Director of Patek Philippe, won the award for
Blancpain’s legendary Fifty Fathoms,
holes, which are spaced at two-minute intervals his 2018 novelty, the Galet Annual Calendar School
which more or less established the
(holes mark even minutes and gaps odd minutes). Piece, that was inspired by his years studying horology.
blueprint for the modern-day dive
The Ochs & Junior Annual Calendar uses an ETA This model, which is perhaps most notable for the intro-
watch, is the gift that keeps on
2824-2 movement with a proprietary module and duction of the independent firm’s fifth manufacture cali-
giving for the venerable Swiss brand.
is available in 36 mm, 39 mm and 42 mm with a ber, the manual-winding LF.126.01, is imbued with the
Now the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe,
variety of case materials and finishes. You can traditional joie de vivre we’ve come to expect from
a retro-look version that debuted in
even customize your own annual calendar using Laurent Ferrier’s work, with the date, month, and day of
2013, is growing into a sub-collection
the configurator on Ochs & Junior website. the week all highly legible and a dial layout that is both
of its own, with multiple new refer-
Pricing starts at CHF 7,400. colorful and subdued. The date is apparent thanks to a
ences debuting last year, including
bright red indicator hand, while the month and day of the
the Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel.
week are placed underneath 12 o’clock in two separate
The new model is the first annual
apertures. The days of the week are updated by simply
calendar watch in the Fifty Fathoms
pressing the pusher integrated on the left side of the case.
range and features the new Caliber
All other adjustments are made by pulling and turning the
6054-P with a 72-hour power
crown. The 40-mm timepiece comes in either a silver-
reserve. As on other annual calendars
toned or slate-gray dial, but both versions have the same
in Blancpain’s portfolio, the dial’s
vintage-inspired numerals painted on in a light blue. On
layout for the calendar functions is
the caseback, you’ll find a power-reserve indicator that
unconventional, yet intuitive, with
displays how much of the 80-hour reserve is left. You
the day, date, and month displays
have three choices for case material, either 18k rose gold,
grouped together from top to bot-
stainless steel, or, for the first time, 18k “pale” yellow
tom. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
gold. The steel model is priced at CHF 50,000; the gold
Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel is
versions at CHF 55,000.
offered on a sail canvas strap, a
NATO strap, or a steel bracelet,
with prices of 24,500 to 26,900
Swiss francs.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
—
IWC celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2018 with an expansive new collection that mostly focused
on the classic design that has long defined the spirit of the Schaffhausen-based marque. Following
that motif directly was the Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW502708),
which balanced IWC’s cherished pilot watch styling with the addition of an annual calendar compli-
cation to balance the dial’s appearance. IWC is no stranger to the annual calendar, having introduced it
first in 2015 inside the Portugieser collection and slowly following it with various limited-edition
releases in lines such as Le Petit Prince and Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The first model to bear the
Big Pilot name uses the same movement, Caliber 52850, as the previous annual calendar models,
displaying the month, date and day in the American format at the top of the dial. The movement
uses IWC’s trademark Pellaton winding system to offer a seven-day power reserve. It comes in a
stainless-steel model with an attractive blue dial and measures in at 46.2 mm. It is limited to 100
total pieces and is priced at $19,700.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

Beneath the
Lunar Surface
Omega expanded its Speedmaster Dark Side of the
Moon collection with the new Apollo 8 edition,
whose laser-engraved, skeletonized movement
takes this ceramic-cased version of the legendary
Moonwatch to new aesthetic heights.

—
by
Mark Bernardo
—

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
CLOSE-UP − Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

The Omega Speedmaster

Dark Side of the Moon
Apollo 8 features
the collection’s first
skeleton movement.

39
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 The decorated elements
on the back of the
movement represent
the moon’s “dark side.”

40
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

— Most watch aficionados can recall what a (though, like most all ceramic cases, it is very
seismic event it was when Omega released the susceptible to being marred by fingerprints).
first Dark Side of the Moon version of its iconic The plunger-style chronograph pushers are in
Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” back polished black, and subtly rounded on the top
in 2013. But few of them probably could have for tactile comfort. A rather firm push is required
predicted that this very avant-garde take on to engage the chronograph and halt it with the
one of Omega’s most timeless watch designs top pusher and to return the yellow, arrow-
would catch fire the way it did, especially con- tipped chronograph seconds hand to zero with
sidering the very passionate fan base of the vin- the bottom one. Nestled between the two push-
tage model and the general resistance to ers is the polished black, fluted crown, which

SPECS
change; there is a reason that Omega continues does not screw down and is inscribed with the
to equip many of its Moonwatches with basi- Greek letter Omega, a brand emblem.
cally the same manual-wind movement as
their 1969 predecessor, after all. However, the
— Moving on to the dial, the yellow highlights
include the central chronograph hand, which has
Dark Side of the Moon has not only thrived but
Omega a varnished finish, the small chronograph hands
Speedmaster Dark Side of
has become a legitimate franchise of its own, on the subdials at 3 and 6 o’clock, and the tips of
spinning off from the main Speedmaster family
the Moon Apollo 8 the rectangular, applied indexes. Meanwhile, a
and used as the proving ground for a number of Manufacturer: white varnish is used for the small seconds hand
intriguing designs and technical ideas. Omega S.A., Stämpflistrasse 96, on the 9 o’clock subdial, and white Super-Lumi-
In 2018, a year in which Omega devoted 2504 Bienne, Switzerland Nova coats the hands and hour indexes as well
much of its marketing muscle not to the Speed- Reference number: as all the indications on the bezel’s tachymeter
master but to its dive-watch predecessor, the 311.92.44.30.01.001 scale. Between these markers, on a black ring, is
Seamaster, there was among the flood of Functions: a minutes scale also reminiscent of the one used
Seamasters one very notable return to the Dark Hours, minutes, small seconds, on the Speedmaster Racing models.
Side: the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon chronograph with central seconds These slightly conical subdials float like
Apollo 8, a tribute to the historic 1968 lunar mis- hand, 30-minute counter at satellites over the front side of the exposed, beau-
sion that marked its 50th anniversary in 2018. 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at tifully openworked movement, upon which
That mission was the second manned space- 6 o’clock laser ablation has been employed to decorate
flight launched in the Apollo program and the Movement: both sides of the blackened mainplate and
first to leave Earth’s orbit, reach and orbit the Omega Caliber 1869 based on the bridges with realistic 3-D depictions of the
Moon, and return safely to Earth. It paved the Lemania 1873, manual-wound, 19 moon’s surface. From the dial side, the effect is
way for the more famous Apollo 11 mission in jewels, 21,600 vph, 48-hour power executed in a lighter gray shade and echoes the
1969, which first landed men on the Moon and reserve, column wheel chronograph, view of the moon that we see from Earth, while
from which the Omega Speedmaster, the watch special black treated bridges the rear side, visible through a clear sapphire
worn by those men on the lunar surface, earned Case: caseback window, is darker gray, aping the
its enduring “Moonwatch” nickname. The watch Black ceramic, scratch-resistant eponymous “dark side” that only astronauts
is, most notably, the first Speedmaster Moon- sapphire crystal with nonreflective have ever viewed in person. As one would
watch to contain a skeletonized version of the treatment on both sides, clear expect, these realistic lunar details come to life
watch’s storied movement, Caliber 1861. How- sapphire caseback, water resistant under a loupe, adding a great deal of individu-
ever, as I realized after having the chance to to 50 m alistic character to this Moonwatch.
spend two weeks with this timepiece, the skele- Strap and clasp: Legibility-wise, the effect of all this detail
tonization is just the tip of the aesthetic iceberg. Perforated black leather, pin buckle is a mixed bag. The white hour indexes and
To start with the exterior, Omega has outfit- Dimensions: especially the prominent yellow chronograph
ted the Apollo 8 in a 44-mm-diameter case, 13.8 Diameter = 44.25 mm, height = seconds hand are easy to discern in all lighting
mm thick, made entirely of jet-black zirconium 13.8 mm conditions. The motion of the running seconds
oxide ceramic, with a polished ceramic tachymeter Price: at 9 o’clock is also fairly obvious at a glance,
bezel, bearing white numerals and indexes and
$9,750
allowing the wearer to check whether the watch
the word “TACHYMÈTRE” in bright yellow. The is running – an important feature in a manually
use of this highlight color, which is associated with wound watch. However, the relative thinness of
speed and which we’ll also find elsewhere on the the hour and minute hands – thin enough, in
watch’s dial and strap, is a callback to the Omega fact, to occasionally get a bit lost among the back-
Speedmaster Racing model from 1968, as is the ground details, and at times even obscured by
tachymeter feature itself: as its name implies, the the much more noticeable central seconds hand
Speedmaster chronograph was a watch built for – was somewhat unexpected and a little vexing.
timing auto races long before it became inextri- I would have thought these hands would be at
cably linked with space exploration. least as wide as the indexes on which they indi-
The case is exquisitely finished, employing cated the time. That said, it is possible that the
both polishing and satin brushing, with the mid- watch, like some other chronographs, was
dle curving elegantly into the faceted lugs designed to emphasize the stopwatch functions

41
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

1 2

3 4 1) Bright yellow is used

for the central
chronograph hand
and chronograph
minutes counter.

2) Laser ablation on
the plates and bridges
creates a lunar-
surface effect.

3) The tang buckle is

made of polished
black ceramic like
the case.

4) Super-LumiNova
coats the hands,
indexes, and
tachymeter scale.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

is still used for the mainstream Speedmaster

Professional “Moonwatch” models, the Apollo
8 represents the first time it’s been used in a
Dark Side of the Moon watch; previous models
have been equipped with the self-winding,
co-axial chronometer-certified Caliber 9300,
whose chronograph readout has two registers
rather than three.
Of course, the movement is also the first of
its kind to be skeletonized and enhanced with
the laser-ablation finishing. This version of the
legendary Moonwatch movement has been
dubbed Caliber 1869, in honor of 1969, the year
of the moon landing – though one wonders why
Omega didn’t just change the “8” in the refer-
ence number as well, just to make the tribute
more obvious. The movement holds a 48-hour
power reserve when fully wound; it has no stop-
seconds function but does incorporate a
decoupling mechanism that prevents the main-
spring from being overwound. Owners of pre-
vious Dark Side of the Moon watches who have
become accustomed to not needing to wind their
timepiece daily may miss that convenience at
times, though this watch was very easy to wind
and kept time very accurately even after more
than a day and a half of being idle. Of course,
the dial’s visual beauty was surely taken into
consideration by the designers as much as its
timekeeping duties, and a large rotor, as one
would find in a self-winding caliber, would most
likely have been a detriment to the view of the
decorated movement parts.
Finally, we come to the pebbled black

Caliber 1869
over the reading of the current time – and of leather strap, which is perforated in the style of
course, the luminous tachymeter scale attests vintage racing gloves (another nod to the
to that as well, allowing the wearer to time rac- Speedy’s early motorsports-inspired style) and
is the first ing speeds even in the dark if he wishes.
Speaking of the case’s rear side, whose sap-
continues the black-and-yellow motif of the dial.
Black on both the top and the underside, the

skeletonized
phire window affords a view of the decorated strap includes, sandwiched between these lay-
movement, its brushed black ceramic frame ers, a yellow rubber middle section, which can
offers historically inspired, engraved text indi- be glimpsed through the micro-perforations
version of cating the date of the Apollo 8 mission (Decem-
ber 1968) and the famous quotation, “We’ll see
made by a special milling tool. This somewhat
subtle effect is enhanced by yellow contrast

Omega’s
you on the other side,” spoken by Command stitching on the topside. The black ceramic pin
Module Pilot Jim Lovell just before the Apollo 8 buckle, with polished finish and engraved
crew drifted out of range of radio contact on its Omega symbol, has a wide tongue that inserts
legendary history-making journey to the Dark Side of the
Moon (also engraved on the caseback).
nicely into the rectangular holes for a secure and
comfortable wrist fit.

Moonwatch
The movement itself – whose lunar-land- Carrying a two-year warranty, a now-com-
scape-finished bridges and plates add visual mon attribute of Omega watches, and packaged
appeal to an already attractive architecture, and in a special presentation box, a now-common

movement. should wow even the most seasoned connois-

seurs of the Speedy and its famous caliber – is
feature of Moonwatch special editions, the Omega
Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 is
based on the same historical chronograph- priced at $9,750. With its vintage Speedmaster
equipped movement inside the first Speed- design elements, first-of-its-kind openworked
master that went to the moon in 1969, Omega’s and decorated movement, and historical lineage,
manual-wound Caliber 1861, based on the I expect many, many potential owners to be “over
Lemania 1873. While this vintage-derived caliber the moon” for this timepiece. —

43
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 TEST − Rolex GMT-Master II

Make It a
Pepsi, Please
We’ve waited a long time, and now it's here –
—
by
the GMT-Master II in steel with a red-and-blue —
Photos by
Jens Koch “Pepsi” bezel. We tested one of the first Marcus Krüger
— —
models to be delivered with a Jubilee
bracelet and a new movement.

44
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 TEST − Rolex GMT-Master II

— Coke or Pepsi? It’s a matter of taste, some say, this model was created. At the time, new jet created satisfactorily in this high-tech material. In
and individual tastes always differ. But there’s airliners made intercontinental flights shorter 2013, Rolex solved one of these problems and the
only one right answer if you’re talking about the and more popular. And the increased number first two-tone ceramic scale appeared – in blue and
Rolex GMT-Master. Although the manufacturer of flights also increased the demand for watches black. This very popular GMT-Master II in steel
made a version that had a GMT bezel in red and with a second time zone. In addition to having became known as “Batman.” In 2014, Rolex was
black, called “Coke,” the first GMT-Master from the aura of a pilots’ watch, the high level of recog- able to create the desired red color, and the com-
1955 bore the red-and-blue scale for the 24-hour nition of the colored bezel contributed to the pany reintroduced the beloved red-and-blue Pepsi
display and was nicknamed “Pepsi.” Today’s Pepsi GMT-Master’s popularity. bezel – on a white-gold watch. The price of over
GMT-Master II represents the reincarnation of Rolex modified the Pepsi very cautiously until $40,000 was too high for many fans of steel Rolex
the classic in its original form. 2007. But then, when it introduced a ceramic bezel sports watches. In 2018, Rolex responded to its cus-
At first, the colors were used to distinguish on steel versions of the GMT-Master II, it became tomers’ desires and again issued the Pepsi in steel.
between the day and night times of the second necessary to shelve the Pepsi. At that time, a two- So as not to be confused with the more
time zone. This and other specs for the watch came color bezel made of ceramic appeared to be tech- expensive white-gold Pepsi, the steel Pepsi is the
from Pan American Airways, at whose request nically impossible, and the color red could not be first Rolex sports watch that has a five-piece-link

45
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 TEST − Rolex GMT-Master II

Jubilee bracelet, previously reserved for Datejust

models. But whether this is a consolation to own-
ers of the white-gold version is debatable, since
whether your business partners might be avail-
able or not. All in all, the GMT-Master II provides
very practical time-zone functions.
SPECS
—
the multi-linked Jubilee bracelet has a more ele- Rolex
gant appearance than the three-row Oyster one. Research, Color, Patents GMT-Master II
Rolex developed the Jubilee bracelet in 1945 Upon its launch in 1955, the Pepsi’s bezel was
for the Datejust, and the GMT-Master has been made of Plexiglas and the red-and-blue color and Manufacturer:
Rolex S.A., Rue François-Dussaud
available with this bracelet option since 1959. Like the white track were printed on the underside.
3-5, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland
the Oyster bracelet on the earlier GMT-Master II, From 1959 to 2007, Rolex produced the bezel in
the center links are polished while the outer links aluminum with colors created using an anodiz- Reference number:
have a brushed finish. ing process. This was followed by a zirconium- 126710BLRO
We found the Jubilee bracelet to be very com- oxide ceramic track (and the related problems Functions:
fortable to wear. The small links fit snugly against with the color). Mineral pigments can be added Hours, minutes, seconds, date,
the wrist and did not pull fine hairs. Thanks to its to color the material, but there is no mineral pig- second time zone
curved links, the Oyster bracelet felt just as sup- ment that can produce a saturated red color. After Movement:
ple and comfortable. The bracelet and case are years of research, Rolex returned to ceramic with In-house Caliber 3285, automatic,
both made of saltwater-resistant stainless steel an aluminum-oxide basis and added chromium chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31
904L, which Rolex calls “Oystersteel.” oxide, magnesium oxide and a rare earth oxide. jewels, hack mechanism, date
This resulted in the red ceramic bezel we have adjustment via jumping hour hand,
Closing, Locking, Extending today. For the blue color, half of the bezel is Paraflex shock absorber, Glucydur
Unlike the Datejust, the Jubilee bracelet for the impregnated with a metallic salt solution prior to balance with Microstella regulating
screws, 70-hour power reserve
GMT-Master II does not have the Oysterclasp fold- the sintering process. You can see the blue layer
ing clasp but instead uses the Oysterlock folding on top of the red background using a loupe. Sin- Case:
clasp (which is usual for sports models, with an tering at 1,600 degrees Celsius for more than 24 Stainless steel 904L, flat sapphire
additional safety bar). The clasps look very simi- hours results in the final colors. However, because crystal with Cyclops magnifier, no
lar. Both offer the Easylink extension piece that the scale shrinks slightly during this process, it anti-reflective coating, screw-down
Triplock crown, fully threaded
can lengthen the bracelet by 5 mm – practical must be milled into the proper shape.
caseback made of 904L steel,
when the wrist expands due to warmer temper-
water resistant to 100 m
atures or increased activity. Half a link can be folded
out from the clasp to make the bracelet longer Bracelet and clasp:
without making a visible difference to the bracelet. Jubilee bracelet made of 904L
The high quality clasp on the Jubilee bracelet ROLEX stainless steel with safety folding
clasp and extension piece
comes very close to optimum, in terms of work-
manship and operation. The safety folding bar is
— Rate results:
barely noticeable when closed. Opening it by lift-
The world’s most popular and Deviation in seconds per 24 hours
ing the Rolex crown reveals a lever that is easy to highest selling luxury watch Dial up ____________________________________________________ +3
raise to open the bracelet. brand produces a wide array of Dial down ______________________________________________ +1
Crown up ________________________________________________ 0
The winding crown is also simple to use. It famous models: the Submariner, Crown down ________________________________________ +1
must be unscrewed to wind the watch. In the first
GMT-Master II, Daytona, Crown left ______________________________________________ 0
pulled-out position, the primary hour hand can
be moved forward or back in hour increments to Datejust and Day-Date. Rolex Crown right __________________________________________ +1
Greatest deviation ______________________________ 3
set a second time zone. The date will advance introduced every one of these Average deviation ______________________________ +1
accordingly in either direction. In the second models more than 50 years ago and Average amplitude:
position, the minutes hand can be adjusted (and has been extremely conservative Flat positions ______________________________ 269°
with it, the 24-hour and primary hour hand). The Hanging positions ____________________ 249°
24-hour hand is best used for home time or, for
with changes to its original
Dimensions:
pilots, the all-important GMT, with the hour hand designs. Some customers like the Diameter = 40 mm, height =
showing local time. The GMT-Master II is known steel models, while others prefer 12.1 mm, weight = 154 g
for this function for travelers. Many other manu- the costlier versions in precious Price:
facturers only offer a quick-adjustment function
metals with diamond accents.
for their second-time-zone watches, which is less
Rolex builds all of its movements $9,250
useful when traveling.
With the GMT-Master II, it is also possible in-house, continuously seeking
to adjust the bezel (which ratchets in hour incre- improvements while carrying out
ments) temporarily to show another time zone – basic, fundamental research.
for example, if you are in the U.S. and are work-
ing with a German company. Turning the bezel
Among other developments, the
so that the GMT hand shows the time in the brand has created its own alloy
desired time zone allows you to see immediately for hairsprings.

46
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
TEST − Rolex GMT-Master II

The new Caliber 3285

adds a 70-hour power
reserve to the accuracy
and sturdiness of its
predecessor.

47
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 TEST − Rolex GMT-Master II

Pepsi on the rocks, now

with an elegant, multi-
link Jubilee bracelet

SCORES
—
Rolex
GMT-Master II
Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 points):
Superior finishing of the new
bracelet and refined clasp 9
Operation (5):
To say ‘demand Easy-to-set local time; a hack
mechanism is helpful for

exceeds supply’
synchronizing the time. 5
Case (10):
Nicely finished case with reliable
In order to make the numerals permanently
easy to read, the entire ring is coated with plat- would be quite an Triplock crown seal and scratch-
resistant bezel 9

understatement.
inum in a PVD process and then polished so that
Design (15):
the precious metal remains only in the recessed
A classic in its original red-and-
numerals and dots. Rolex has patented both blue color combination 14
processes. The faded colors often seen on older
GMT-Master models will not occur with the new Legibility (5):
Easy to read in daylight thanks to
UV-resistant bezel. new models in red Everose gold and in steel and
large markers and high contrasts,
And in contrast to the white-gold Pepsi and Everose gold), the new movement now has a ball
and it glows brightly at night. 5
all previous GMT-Master II models, this version bearing instead of a plain bearing for the oscil-
is the first to use the new time zone Caliber 3285. lating weight. The in-house Paraflex shock Wearing comfort (10):
With the exception of the chronographs, all Rolex absorber is designed to slide back into its original High degree of wearing comfort
due to the multi-link bracelet; an
self-winding watches are powered by the 31xx cal- position more smoothly in the event of impact.
integrated extension piece enhances
iber (the old version) or the new 32xx caliber with The greatest advantage for the wearer of the ease of wear. 10
a 70-hour power reserve instead of 48 hours. new Pepsi is the increased power reserve. Instead
Although Caliber 3186 continues to be used in the of two days, the watch provides almost three full Movement (20):
The sturdy, accurate and rugged
other GMT-Master II models (except for the two days of uninterrupted power. The main contrib-
in-house movement now provides
utor to the enhanced power reserve is the more
a considerably higher power
efficient Chronergy escapement. The geometry reserve. 19
Here the red background on the bezel is visible; a of the pallet fork and escape wheel has been
special metallic salt produces the blue color. optimized, and the LIGA process, in which these Rate results (10):
Low average deviation; moderate
parts are formed with a galvanic molding process,
positional variation 10
have allowed Rolex to produce perforated and
thus lighter components. And thanks to the nickel- Value (15):
phosphorous alloy used, the escapement is no The value for the price is accept-
longer affected by magnetic fields. able and value retention is
extremely high – at least for
What has remained are the well-known
those customers who buy at an
advantages of Rolex movements: an extremely appropriate price. 13
stable balance bridge instead of a single-sided
Total:

94
balance cock, the free-sprung hairspring with
Breguet overcoil and the adjustable fine regula-
tor with Microstella weights on the balance. POINTS

48
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 − Rolex GMT-Master
TEST KICKER − Kicker II

Rolex has improved the caliber consistently

in the core virtues of accuracy, longevity and
sturdiness. Decorations are present, like a sun-
burst finish, but there is no hand-applied
engraving. The new movement can also be iden-
tified by a detail on the dial: a tiny Rolex crown
is placed between the two words “Swiss Made”
at the dial’s edge.
As always with Rolex, the official Swiss
chronometer certification institute COSC con-
firms the movement’s high rate accuracy at var-
ious temperatures and positions. And Rolex’s own
specifications require an even greater degree of
regulation, with an average deviation of between
-2 and +2 seconds per day. Our test watch met
these high expectations on the timing machine
Batman, meet Pepsi: the
and showed an average deviation of only +1 sec-
most in-demand model
in the collection teams onds. The rate remained in the range between 0
up with a new object and +3 seconds in all six positions; accordingly,
of desire. the greatest positional error was measured at only
+3 seconds with a manageable amplitude drop
between the horizontal and vertical positions.

Beloved, Desired, Unattainable

At $9,250, the steel GMT-Master II Pepsi is placed
in the mid-level price range. There are more eco-
nomical manufacture alternatives with a second
time zone, as well as more expensive ones, but
with regard to value retention, hardly anyone can
compete with Rolex. Since June 2018, this new
timepiece has been delivered in very limited num-
bers, and the few pieces that are resold through
online auctions cost at least two times more than
new. Demand exceeds supply to a huge degree.
As the number of delivered watches rises, the
prices for pre-owned watches are expected to fall
somewhat, and we expect that the prices will more
or less follow the trends of the GMT-Master II
Batman, which is being sold at about 10 percent
more than the new price, even with signs of wear.
However, in the next few years, it will be difficult
to buy a Pepsi from a licensed dealer since the
waiting lists are already full.
Rolex has hit the bullseye with its new reis-
sue of the blue-and-red GMT-Master II in steel.
While the design has changed very little over the
last 60 years, the watch has become a classic with
a timeless look rather than merely vintage. The
Jubilee bracelet is a good fit with the watch. Rolex
has improved the technology within and provides
even greater value with a longer power reserve.
Functionally, Rolex offers more than most other
manufacturers – from the bracelet extension to
the time-zone-adjustment function, plus the high-
est levels of accuracy, legibility and wearing com-
fort. A transparent caseback would be a welcome
addition. And it would be great if Rolex could
deliver orders to everyone who says, “I'll have a
Pepsi, please!” —

49
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

Globetrotter
From Glashütte
Travel-time watches are prized for
their straightforward functionality in
today’s globalized world. The
Glashütte Original Senator
Cosmopolite in stainless steel
demonstrates the brand’s
fundamental – and very
Teutonic – understanding of this
practical luxury.

—
by
Logan R. Baker
—

— Many high-class individuals fetishize the concept of

exclusivity. That’s why many of the same people who hoard
sought-after timepieces can be found savoring a tumbler of
Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 23, or might be spotted
on the decade-long waitlist for a bottle of Syrah from cult
winery Sine Qua Non. The idea of exclusivity is of particular
relevance in the contemporary watch industry, which is full
of deep-pocketed individuals who use their connections to
The Glashütte Original
hoard “hyped-up” watches, creating a legitimate scarcity
Senator Cosmopolite in
among ADs and retailers. This, in turn, impacts the general stainless steel is a more
enthusiast from enjoying the fine timepieces like they were accessible and youthful
meant to. More often than not, brands are passive in letting take on the brand's
this happen because, “Hey, the watches are selling out and innovative travel-time
– surprise, surprise – exclusivity is a great advertisement.” complication.

50
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
CLOSE-UP − Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

51
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

With all that in mind, it’s time to discuss a brand that with the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time in 2015, have
defies those horological hoarders and serial flippers and achieved similar results in representing all the time zones.
focuses on its best attributes: making sophisticated However, what makes the Senator Cosmopolite entirely
watches with useful complications at a reasonable price unique is its display of the separate time zones and how the
point. The brand I’m talking about is Glashütte Original and watch accounts for timing quirks like Daylight Saving Time.
the watch I have in mind is the Senator Cosmopolite in stain-
less steel, one of the most underrated releases of 2018. With a few innovative exceptions, brands of all price points
The Senator Cosmopolite as we know it today was first have long followed Louis Cottier’s archetypal 1931 Patek
released in rose gold and white gold in 2015. Before that, the Philippe invention when building world-time collections. It
basic – and I mean that lightly – concept was introduced in was an epoch-making moment for horology and the design
2012 with the Glashütte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tour- is easy to comprehend, so its ubiquity is understandable.
billon. Following in those watches’ tradition, the most The Senator Cosmopolite is a departure from Cottier’s
recent Senator Cosmopolite has a lot to offer. First of all, design in a number of ways. Most notably, the watch features
thanks to its new case material, the stainless-steel model is two time zone displays that operate separately from one
much less expensive, opening it up to a larger audience of another. Home time is read from the subdial at 12 o’clock; the
world travelers and making it more feasible as a daily wearer. second time zone, aka your “destination” or “local” time, is
Second, the 2018 version features a refreshed design that told via the two central hour and minutes hands. There are
feels more modern thanks to its usage of Arabic numerals three fluted crowns that extend from 2 o’clock, 4 o’clock and
supplemented by blue appliqués rather than Roman 8 o’clock that control the time-setting mechanism.
numerals and the transition from a railroad-style minutes The first thing you want to do is set the home time cour-
track to separated markers. Another slight design change tesy of the crown at 2 o’clock. It sets like a standard wrist-
from the 2015 iteration is the watch without jumping – which we’ll get to in a moment.

The Senator
absence of color on the day/night (Note: This crown is connected to the running seconds sub-
indicator at 9 o’clock for a more dial at 6 o’clock, meaning it will hack once it is pulled out.)
streamlined appeal; previously, the Up next is your local time that is set through the
“night sky” was colored dark blue
and the sun was yellow. Cosmopolite is the 4 o’clock crown. With each turn, the minutes hand jumps in
15-minute increments to account for all 35 time zone dif-

most important
What’s remarkable about the ferences. It’s worth pointing out that this can be adjusted
Senator Cosmopolite doesn’t have both backward and forward without any damage occurring
much to do with its design – to the watch’s movement due to the mechanism’s inde-
although the layout of the dial is
important, which we’ll get to later stainless-steel pendence. The hour hand corresponds by moving forward
at consistent intervals.

travel-time watch
– rather it is the watch’s compre- Before moving on, the other dial functions need to be
hensive take on the world-time defined. At 4 o’clock there is the classic German big date,
complication that sets it apart from which Glashütte Original calls “PanoramaDatum.” There are
a crowded field of 2018 releases.
Normally, worldtimers only of 2018. two night-and-day indicators on the dial as well. For your
home time, there is a subtle aperture located in the 12
include the option to display the o’clock subdial that is dark during nighttime and white dur-
time in the 24 time zones offset by one hour; the Senator ing the daytime. At 9 o’clock, there’s a sloping subdial that
Cosmopolite, on the other hand, has the ability to display shows night or day in your local time. Additionally, in the 12
the time in all 35 time zones, including those offset by half o’clock subdial, there is an arc that shows how much of the
an hour or three-fourths of an hour. 72-hour power reserve remains. Above the 8 o’clock crown
This means the watch can, most notably, display India is a small pusher used for setting the date.
Standard Time (UTC +5:30), as well as the time in Afghanistan On the dial at 8 o’clock is an unusual complication that
(UTC +4:30), Iran (UTC +3:30), Sri Lanka (UTC +5:30), New- will be new to anyone unfamiliar with the 2015 Senator
foundland (UTC -3:30) and Nepal (UTC +5:45). This is more Cosmopolite. Basically, there are two apertures that denote
significant than you might think because the entirety of the Daylight Saving Time (DST) and Standard Time (STD).
Indian subcontinent is located within IST, meaning over 1.3 Inside the apertures is a disk with the list of all 35 IATA
billion people and over 17 percent of the world’s population (International Air Transport Association) codes that corre-
didn’t have much choice for a functioning worldtimer. Even spond with the time zone they are located in. This disk is con-
if a majority of the country’s residents aren’t in the market nected to the crown at 4 o’clock so as the central poire hands
for a luxury timepiece, there are millions of Indian expats jump forward, so will the IATA codes. Since the local time
throughout the world who have family in the country and needs to match the IATA code in its corresponding aperture,
could use the worldtimer to calculate an ideal time to call, it might be necessary to correct the aperture after local time
one of a worldtimer’s most valuable attributes. is set using the crown at 8 o’clock. The IATA codes use three
It’s in this way that the Senator Cosmopolite is a world- different colors to describe the GMT offset time: the 24 time
timer in the most literal sense of the word. Although it must zones with a full hour difference are printed in black, the eight
be said that the concept isn’t entirely original – watches from time zones with a half-hour difference in blue and the three
other prestigious marques such as Vacheron Constantin, additional time zones (three-fourths of an hour) in red.

52
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
CLOSE-UP − Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

Clockwise from top:

The exhibition caseback

displays Caliber 89-02.

The home-time dial at

12 o’clock includes a
power-reserve gauge
and a second day/night
indicator.

The twin apertures at

8 o’clock showcase
whether the local time
is in Daylight Saving
Time and Standard
Time through the usage
of IATA codes.

At 9 o’clock, there's a
day/night indicator for
local time. At 6 o’clock,
a small seconds subdial.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

Once everything has been set and all your indicators The hand-engraved, Daylight Saving Time and the other does not. For example,
and subdials are aligned to the accurate and most useful gold-plated balance cock the time difference between New York, which observes DST,
time, you will be all set for your next trip, or to make that and Hong Kong, which doesn’t, is 12 hours during New York’s
cross-continental call to grandma. Moving forward, all that Daylight Saving Time and 13 hours when the city is in Stan-
is necessary is adjusting the local time using the 4 o’clock dard Time. A worldtimer using Louis Cottier’s design would
crown either clockwise if you’re traveling east from home, or only display the difference as 13 hours without change,
counter-clockwise if you’re traveling west. Because of the requiring additional calculation by the wearer, defeating the
inter-connected movement, the Panorama Date, a.m./p.m. overall point of a travel-time wristwatch.
indicator and IATA disc will automatically adjust with it. The Glashütte Original counteracts this through the use of
home time dial, along with its a.m./p.m. indicator, will the 8 o’clock apertures. When Daylight Saving Time rolls
remain the same. around in New York, the local time will need to be adjusted
It’s this structure that makes the Senator Cosmopolite one hour backward, or four 15-minute jumps. The IATA code
– while confusing at first – such a unique and approachable signifying New York, JFK, will have moved from the DST win-
timepiece once its full capabilities have been explained. dow into the STD aperture signaling this change.
Everything should now be set but there’s still the question The movement that powers all of these complex-yet-
of the Daylight Saving Time apertures and how they help the intuitive functions is manufacture Calibre 89-02, which is
Senator Cosmopolite stand out compared to the stagnant the same movement used in the previous 18k gold versions
worldtimers of the past. from 2015 (the Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon used Cali-
bre 89-01). It’s visible through an exhibition caseback – which
A traditional worldtimer, with its 24 time zones set around thank goodness for, as the traditional German watchmak-
an outer ring, doesn’t allow for any flexibility when it comes ing on full display here is something to behold. A gorgeous
to Daylight Saving Time and its on-again, off-again nature Glashütte-stripe finish runs across the time-honored three-
in countries around the world. The trouble with represent- quarter plate movement. Polished bevels provide ample tex-
ing this on a watch dial comes when we’re comparing the ture into the quarter opening that displays the stunning,
time difference between two countries, where one observes hand-engraved, gold-plated balance cock, a Glashütte sig-

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

nature. On top of the balance wheel is the brand’s regula-

tor-free regulation system with a dual swan-neck spring that
can be adjusted using the four tiny screws on the balance
wheel, ensuring a high degree of rate precision. The balance
itself beats at 28,800 vph. There’s an off-center micro-rotor
also constructed from gold – another sign of traditional

The Senator Cosmopolite

Glashütte watchmaking – that allows for the watch’s
impressive three-day power reserve.
Moving back to the dial side, all the subdials, apertures
and complications are spread out in an even manner
imbuing the watch with its refined appearance. The blued
is a worldtimer in the most
literal sense of the word.
poire hands stretch across the dial and complement the
printed blue Arabic numerals and appliqués. On the 12
o’clock subdial, the hands are nearly identical but the printed
numerals are black rather than blue to denote the time dif-
ference. There’s a mixture of fonts on the dial that is slightly
disconcerting and contrasts with the overall tastefulness of
the watch but, thankfully, there are no egregious kerning or
other graphic design issues. In fact, the varnished, matte dial
offers a lot of forgiveness for any small flaws. During my time
with the watch, I found that when sunlight hits the dial just
right, the blued hands and indexes combine with the soft
whiteness of the dial to really come alive in a symphony of
SPECS
—
Teutonic timing pleasure. Finally, the case features a com- Glashütte Original
bination of satin-brushed and polish finishing that just adds Senator Cosmopolite
to the watch’s overall handsome decoration.
Manufacturer:
Glashütte Uhrenbetrieb GmbH,
In discussing wearability, there’s no getting around it, this
Altenberger Strasse 1, 01768
is a substantial watch. At 44 mm by 14 mm, the watch actu-
Glashütte/Sachsen, Germany
ally wears bigger due to the almost-non existent bezel but is
aided by the chunky lugs that help it fit wrists of any size. It’s Reference number:
also worth noting that thanks to the new stainless-steel case 1-89-02-03-02-01
material, the watch is substantially lighter than its gilded Functions:
predecessors. Regardless, it’s unlikely to fit under a shirt cuff Hours and minutes (central), small
anytime soon. The reason for this overall robustness is due seconds (off-center), Panorama
to the highly complicated movement that is sized at 39.2 date, power-reserve display,
selection of 35 time zones including
mm by 8 mm. Glashütte Original took steps to decrease its
½ hour and ¾ hour differences,
thickness, namely the choice to use a micro-rotor, but with
Daylight Saving/Standard Time
a complication like this, where there are multiple levels that
require different adjustments, the size is impossible to avoid. Movement:
That being said, I did wear the Senator Cosmopolite for over Manufacture Caliber 89-02, auto-
matic, 28,800 vph, 63 jewels,
a week and, while it took a moment to get used to, I had no
72-hour power reserve, diameter =
issue with the watch’s size or weight despite my thin wrists.
39.2 mm, height = 8.00 mm
It comes with a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap Blued hands and
with your choice of a pin buckle or a fold-over clasp. indexes make the dial Case:
In conclusion, the Glashütte Original Senator come alive. Stainless steel, three crowns with
double-G logo, screwed caseback,
Cosmopolite presents a fantastic value in its new stainless-
The watch measures in waterproof up to 50 m (5 bar)
steel dressing. While the previous generation in rose and at 44 mm by 14 mm.
white gold hammered home the German brand’s fondness Strap and clasp:
for precious metals, the stainless-steel version is where the Dark blue Louisiana alligator with
watch’s inherent functionality shines. At a little over $21,000, pin buckle clasp
there might not be a better worldtimer value on the market Dimensions:
today, considering all you are getting. A full manufacture Diameter = 44.0 mm, height =
movement, an innovative dual time zone display that 14.0 mm
accounts for 35 time zones plus Daylight Saving Time, and Variations:
all the typical Glashütte decoration combines with one of With fold-over clasp ($21,500)
the most effective and user-friendly adjustment systems I’ve Price:

$21,200
seen, making this watch, in my personal opinion, the most
important stainless-steel travel-time watch of 2018. —

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— It’s hard to believe it’s been four years since Apple CEO
Tim Cook introduced the world to the Apple Watch. The
new-age wearable promised to revolutionize the way we
communicate, provide intimate health tracking and
streamline the way we interact with technology. Its intro-
duction was hailed in Silicon Valley as the vanguard of a
new era in wearable tech; however, within the closed doors
and hallowed halls of the conservative Swiss watch indus-
try, its introduction took a decidedly different tone.
In an interview with the German newspaper Die Welt
soon after the Apple Watch was announced, then-LVMH
Watchmaking Head Jean-Claude Biver said the Apple Watch

Hybrid
“was too feminine and looks like it was designed by stu-
dents.” Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek Jr. also had words
for the technology company when he dismissed the Apple
Watch merely as an “interesting toy” in a 2015 interview with
the Swiss newspaper Tages-Anzeiger.
While those industry luminaries acted with indifference

Horology
during the initial rollout of the Apple Watch, Peter Stas, the
Dutch CEO of Frederique Constant, the company he founded
in 1988 with his wife, took a different approach.
He sprang into action by quickly partnering with Philippe
Kahn, founder and CEO of Silicon Valley-based Fullpower
Inc., to establish MMT (Manufacture Modules Technolo-
gies), a smartwatch technology platform that was meant to
act as “the bridge between Silicon Valley and Switzerland.”
The result of their collaboration was the Horological Smart-
Frederique Constant watch, a series of quartz watches that incorporated elec-
tronic “smart” modules into their movements that offered a
unveiled the Hybrid range of basic functions from step counting to sleep moni-
toring. The initial run took direct aim at Apple by hitting
Manufacture with the stores almost immediately after the Apple Watch did in 2015.

auspicious claim of This wasn’t the first time that Stas appeared as a cham-
pion of change in the Swiss watch industry. In the 1990s, he
being the “World’s First identified an opening in the market for accessibly priced
timepieces when much of the industry was headed upmar-
3.0 Watch.” Does it live ket; in the 2000s, he adopted silicon parts into his movement
production earlier than a majority of the Swiss industry;
up to the hype? finally, in the early 2010s, he was a leading proponent in the
pushback against the Swatch Group when the conglomer-
ate sought to limit the number of movement parts it sold to
third-party companies.
When Frederique Constant was purchased in late Spring
2016 by Japan’s Citizen Group, MMT spun off into its own
independent company with new leadership, although it con-
tinued to work with Frederique Constant in building out the
Horological Smartwatch series.
This brings us to the Hybrid Manufacture, which was
announced by the brand in February 2018 as not only the
— world’s first 3.0 watch, but also the first timepiece to claim
by Logan R. the title of being a true “hybrid,” with a mechanical move-
Baker ment infused with the technology found in the Horological
— Smartwatches.

A New Approach
The Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture is noteworthy
for a number of reasons with one standing out in particular:
It’s the first time a luxury Swiss watch company has provided
a concrete sign of approval of the value of a mechanical watch

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 CLOSE-UP − Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture

as an indicator of fitness and health. The Hybrid Manufacture We’re already seeing a shift in how people wear their
is, by and large, simply a mechanical watch with never- wristwatches. The Apple Watch and other smartwatches are
before-seen complications, rather than a smartwatch mas- reaching corners of the globe that were never previously pen-
querading in a traditional watch’s body. This line of thinking etrated by luxury timepieces. We’re even beginning to see
should counteract several problems that many watch “purists” people who previously wouldn’t wear a watch use a smart-
have with preexisting “hybrid” watches that blend a quartz watch as the launching point to a greater collection of more
movement with smart technology. It’s the inclination of many expensive, mechanical timekeepers. The Hybrid Manufac-
enthusiasts to dismiss anything based on electronics as horo- ture exists on the highwire that connects these two disparate
logical heresy, but if a watch is approached through the em- sides of the industry: It can keep collectors intrigued by smart-
pirical lens that Frederique Constant is attempting, it should watches in the fold of the Swiss watch industry as well as po-
open up the watch’s potential to a whole new demographic tentially lure smartwatch wearers to upgrade to the more
of collectors. luxurious – and longer lasting – “hybrid” arena.

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CLOSE-UP − Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture

On the Wrist
The Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture comes in four
different iterations. The model we tested over multiple
months had a silver-plated dial with blue accents. It features
the same 42-mm case and onion crown found in the Man-
ufacture Worldtimer series and uses annular lines to seg-
ment the dial into the different indicators. Breguet hands
glide over stretched Roman numerals between the guilloché-
inspired detailing that provides the watch with its formal feel
that doesn’t give away the technological capabilities under-
neath the dial.
Inside the Hybrid Manufacture is the in-house devel-
oped, produced and assembled automatic Caliber FC-750.
The FC-750 movement This movement controls the main timekeeping functions,
is visible through a such as the analog display of hours, minutes, seconds, in
sapphire exhibition addition to the date wheel at 6 o’clock. It boasts a 42-hour
caseback.
power reserve and features traditional decoration like per-
lage and côtes de Geneve that is visible through the sapphire
exhibition caseback.
The “smart” technology comes from an electronic mod-
ule (also in-house developed, produced and assembled by
the brand) hidden within the movement and controlled by
the intuitive pusher that extends out from the left side of the
case between 9 and 10 o’clock. The module connects to a
smartphone app developed by MMT via Bluetooth and pro-
vides a number of functions like sleep monitoring and
activity tracking. What’s most interesting for mechanical
watch fans is that this module provides the opportunity to
continuously test the accuracy of your watch through a ded-
icated setting that will automatically analyze your watch’s
rate, amplitude, and beat error once a day at 4:00 a.m. This
is another area where the Hybrid Manufacture offers tangi-
ble and built-in benefit for the contemporary enthusiast that
can’t be found elsewhere.
While the information provided by the module can be
easily accessed through the smartphone app (available on
iOS and Android operating systems), this information does
not update automatically; wearers must quickly press the
The Hybrid Bluetooth-connected pusher to update the data readout in
Manufacture the app. What the Hybrid Manufacture does offer in terms
is currently of immediate access to data comes via the 12 o’clock sub-
available in four dial. This subdial is split into two compact informational
different iterations. scales. The outer scale will display a second time zone in a
24-hour display while the inner scale will show either the
percentage of your daily activity goal that you’ve complet-
ed or act as a power reserve for the remaining battery life of
the module that promises to last up to seven days between
charges. You can set which display you prefer in the app and
then check the remaining options with either one or two
quick clicks of the pusher.

A “Smart” Contradiction
The question of magnetism is something that weighs heav-
ily in the minds of both watchmakers and collectors and pro-
vided a significant challenge in the conception of the Hybrid
Manufacture. To counteract the effect that the electronic
module might have on the balance of Caliber FC-750,
Frederique Constant developed a proprietary anti-magnetic
shield that wraps around the minuscule electronic gearbox.

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 CLOSE-UP − Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture

Breguet hands, Roman numerals and guilloché-

inspired detailing don’t betray the watch’s
“smart” ability.

Another issue came from the fact that the average smart- are discussed. Magnetism is a mechanical watch’s natural
watch, with its constant stream of updates, becomes obso- enemy and being disposable is the antithesis of why collec-
lete in a matter of years, while mechanical wristwatches can tors love watches in the first place. With the Hybrid Manu-
be passed down through generations with periodic servic- facture, those two vital questions have been put to rest and
ing. How does Frederique Constant apply its background in provide a reason to reconsider what were once foregone con-
mechanical timekeeping to perhaps the most important clusions about “smart” watchmaking.
question when considering the virtues of mechanical watches However, the Hybrid Manufacture is not without its
with their “smarter” counterparts? flaws. While many of the complications are intuitive, the
To answer this, we went directly to Stas himself: sleep monitoring left something to be desired. Unlike other
“We have a technology called OTA (over the air), which smartwatches that start tracking sleep automatically after a
can upload new firmware via the app and will update the certain motionless period, the Hybrid Manufacture’s sleep
software on the watch,” he says. “If there is a change in iOS, monitoring must be started through the app, which isn’t
we can make sure that the smartwatch will continue to work. always easy to remember when you’re drowsy. The classic
Sometimes we even add new functions to the watches, like dress watch styling of the Hybrid Manufacture also presents
countdown, and we update the app as well. If we can no an issue with the activity tracking concept. While it’s great
longer update the watch with OTA, we have the chance to to be able to track your daily steps throughout your day at
change the PCB inside the smartwatch during a revision. the office or while running errands, it’s hard to imagine wear-
PCB is the black circuit printed that can be exchanged with ing the watch, which comes on a leather strap, during a
a new one, which will have a new chip (hardware can be serious workout. The modernist font used for the Hybrid
updated). This can be done as a revision and costs $50 at most.” labeling on the watch at 3 o’clock does nothing to comple-
The anti-magnetic shield and OTA updating procedure ment the timeless Frederique Constant logo at 9 o’clock. It’s
are direct contradictions to the common issues that cause difficult to balance the competing urges of the classic dress
mechanical watch enthusiasts to recoil when smartwatches watch styling with the dynamism of the “Hybrid” label, but

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 CLOSE-UP − Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture

its current integration provides a mixed message. Finally,

while the wooden winder box that comes with the Hybrid
Manufacture is suitably luxurious, the plastic portable USB
SPECS
—
charger is somewhat flimsy. This may seem trivial, but when Frederique Constant
you’re competing with highly functional smartwatches priced Hybrid Manufacture
under $1,000 and the terrain of extravagant mechanical
watches, details matter. Manufacturer:
The Hybrid smart- Frederique Constant, Chemin du
The Hybrid Manufacture is a juxtaposition of what have
phone application is Champs des Filles 32,1228 Plan-
become the two worlds of contemporary watchmaking. No compatible with iOS les-Ouates, Geneva, Switzerland
matter how separate they may seem, mechanical watch- and Android operating
making and smartwatches will be in an endless competition systems and was Reference number:
for wrist time for the rest of our lives. Frederique Constant developed by MMT. FC-750MC4H6
has taken the applause-worthy first step in bridging the gap Functions:
between the two with its focus on bringing the greatest Hours, minutes, seconds, date
The new Caliber wheel; smartwatch functions dis-
amount of information to the wrist without sacrificing the
Analytics function played at 12 o’clock subdial include
sanctity of mechanical watchmaking. displays the state of power reserve, sleep monitoring,
As lovers of watches, it can be tough to look down at the movement’s rate,
second time zone, activity tracking
your wrist and see a black screen that, despite its informa- amplitude and beat
tional value, turns worthless when it runs out of power. This error on your smart- Movement:
is where the true value of the Hybrid Manufacture comes phone screen via the FC-750 Manufacture Hybrid cali-
into play. It’s not only a reminder of the value of innovation Hybrid app. ber, automatic with date adjustable
by crown and Bluetooth connected
but also of the importance of the enthusiast, because at the
counter adjustable by pusher,
end of the day, no matter the price point or complication
perlage and circular côtes de Genève
inside, we want our watches to perform their primary func- decoration on the movement, 26
tion of displaying the passage of time independently. — jewels, 42-hour power reserve,
28,800 vph, 7+ days battery life
Case:
Polished stainless-steel 3-part
case, convex sapphire crystal, see-
through caseback, water resistant
to 50 m (5 ATM)
Strap and clasp:
Black alligator strap with pin buckle
Dial:
Silvered-color dial with decoration
guilloché and black-printed indexes.
Hand-polished black hands. Date
counter at 6 o’clock. Connected
counter at 12 o’clock.
Dimensions:
Diameter = 42 mm
Variations:
Steel with navy dial ($3,495);
steel with gray dial ($3,595); rose-
gold-plated steel with silver dial
($3,795); black dial limited
edition, 888 pieces ($3,795)
Price:

$3,495

The 12 o’clock subdial

can display three “smart
functions” including a
second time zone, power
reserve and activity
tracker.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
O U T L A W
CONNOISSEUR

Antonio Jaramillo,
who co-stars on FX’s
motorcycle club drama
“Mayans MC,” went
from selling watches at
Tiffany & Co. to acting
in stage plays, TV
and movies. But the
Mexican-born actor has
continued his pursuit of
horological knowledge
while assembling a small
but eclectic timepiece
collection.
 INTERVIEW − Antonio Jaramillo

— MB: The biography on your website starts off 1900s when it was just wealthy people who could
with “Antonio didn’t know he’d become an actor.” afford a watch, to the 1970s, when the Japanese
How does one go from a Mexican orphanage to companies like Citizen and Seiko killed the Swiss
developing the interest in the arts that led you to and German watchmaking industry and made
acting? watches accessible to everyone with their $20
AJ: My brother and I grew up in an orphanage in plastic pieces. I found it all fascinating. So now
Mexico, while my sister stayed with my mom in that I had all this knowledge, what was I going to
San Diego, where most of my family was. Even- do with it? I went to Tiffany & Co. and they were
tually I came to stay with relatives in California hiring for the holidays, so I went in for an inter-
while I went to junior high and high school. After view. They hired me, and I started selling brands
high school, I worked in the restaurant industry, like Blancpain, Glashütte, Longines, Maurice
where I discovered the theatre. I didn’t know it Lacroix, Tissot and Hamilton. I was a young kid,
would be a profession or a career; at the time, it but people were buying from me and the owner
was just more like therapy. But one [acting] job noticed. I guess customers could just sense my
led to another job, and people kept responding enthusiasm. For a while I thought that my career
to my work in a very positive way. In 2004, when was going to be decided between the watch
— I was living in Orange County and working at a industry and the arts, but then the arts got a hold
by Morton’s Steakhouse, I was offered a job at the of me, so here we are.
Mark Bernardo Geffen Playhouse in Los Angeles. The very next
— day I quit both restaurant jobs. I decided, if I’ve MB: Were you into watches at all before that
been given this opportunity, I have to let it take experience? Did you wear a watch or know much
me where’s it going to take me. That’s when I said, of anything at all?
“No more restaurants,” but I still needed a regu- AJ: No. There weren’t a lot of high-end stores in
lar income. Which brings me to the period when San Diego at the time, so there wasn’t a lot of
— I was working in a store selling watches. access to those types of watches; you had to go
Photos by to New York or Beverly Hills. But I started saving
Adam Eldeib, MB: Let’s talk about that. How did you end up money, and my first watch was an Omega Speed-
Superlative Co. with a job in watch retailing and how did it lead master, which I loved. Then I just started buying
— you to a better appreciation of fine watches? more. A watch will outlast a home or a car; it’s a
AJ: It’s kind of a crazy thing. I’ve always been major piece of history. If you take care of a watch
knowledge-hungry, and I like to read about what’s it can go from you to your son and grandsons.
happening around the world; as an actor, I feel
it’s part of my job to investigate human behavior MB: Speaking of continuing history, your first
— and to learn about other cultures. So, to make a major TV series role is on FX’s “Mayans MC,” a
Styling by long story short, in the early ’90s, before your sequel to its popular motorcycle club drama, “Sons
magazine started, I went to a Tower Records and of Anarchy.” How will this show be different from
Brandi Mascorro
found myself looking at the racks of magazines, the original and how does your character fit in?
for Maven Artists
and saw a magazine called “International Watch,” AJ: It’s a continuation of the saga that [“SOA” and
Agency using
which I thought was about international news. I “Mayans MC” creator] Kurt Sutter created, turn-
Pacifica Beauty
started thumbing through the pages and all I see ing the focus to another motorcycle club that was
— are pictures of watches! I put it back on the shelf intertwined with the Sons of Anarchy. There are
because I didn’t understand it. A few weeks later, motorcycles, there are outlaws, it’s super cool,
I was still wondering about who would read a and I think the people who loved “Sons” are going
magazine with just watches in it, so I went back to love “Mayans MC.” It’s a little different because
to the Tower Records to look for it. it’s about a Latin motorcycle club, with a 95 per-
cent Hispanic cast, but it has that same outlaw
MB: So that’s how you discovered watch maga- mentality – outcasts trying to assimilate to a
zines. Did you eventually understand the appeal society, trying to find their place in the world.
of this subject?
AJ: At first I was surprised that anybody would MB: Sutter is known to have a very singular cre-
read this stuff, but I was intrigued, so I just kept ative vision. How much input did you have in
reading and found that there’s so much history developing your character with him?
behind companies like Blancpain, Glashütte Orig- AJ: Initially there’s a meeting with Kurt where he
inal and Breguet; some of these companies were tells you what his vision is, and you share your
around when Napoleon was alive! I just started thoughts on the character, and then they come
absorbing the history of watches – from the early together, and he makes the final call. We actually

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 INTERVIEW − Antonio Jaramillo

Antonio Jaramillo
developed an
appreciation for fine
watches while selling
them at
Tiffany & Co.

had to reshoot the pilot, with five or six different Jewelers, which actually let me put it on layaway
roles recast from the first one that didn’t quite at the time because I didn’t have much money
work, and lots of details changed, including my back then. They weren’t supposed to, but the lady
character’s role within the club, and actually many I bought it from saw how enthusiastic I was about
things continue to change because others’ ideas it, so she gave me 30 days to pay it off! Of course,
are brought in. It’s going to take time, just like itHeuer became TAG Heuer in the 1980s and
did with “Sons of Anarchy,” for a lot of the char- stopped using that old logo. At the time, the Link
acters to develop, so we’ll see what happens. was TAG Heuer’s biggest model; everybody
seemed to have one at the time. But the brand
MB: You’ve built a pretty eclectic watch collection. resurrected that Heuer logo for this model. I
Let’s start with the Bell & Ross. Do you remember thought it was a wonderful way for the company
what turned you on to that brand and that model? to honor its past.
AJ: I liked the simplicity of it, the military avia-
tion style. I like the big Arabic numerals and the MB: You’ve described your Ulysse Nardin Marine
fact that it works well as an everyday watch. It’s Chronometer as one of your favorites. Could you
a good company that I remember following since tell me how you discovered it and why this par-
the late ’90s, when it started out making some ticular model appeals to you?
quartz watches and some mechanicals. It’s great AJ: It is my favorite, and Ulysse Nardin is one of
that it’s become so successful. my favorite brands. I like simplicity and func-
tionality, and when I saw this watch, with the big
MB: This vintage Heuer chronograph is rather Arabic numbers and that clean, yellow dial, I had
special, right? to special order it. I was going to buy a different
AJ: Yes, it’s a re-edition of an original Heuer Car- model with a moon-phase, but when the sales-
rera with a Lemania movement. The first one person showed me this yellow-dialed version in
came out in 1964, and the company did this com- the catalog – and told me that there weren’t that
memorative version 25 years later. I’m a sucker many of them made, maybe 100, and that she
for a pretty face and I loved that Champagne dial could get me one but it would take some time –
as soon as I saw it. I bought that one at Ben Bridge I jumped at it. That was maybe 18 years ago. I like

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 INTERVIEW − Antonio Jaramillo

Two of Jaramillo’s
favorites: a yellow-
dialed Ulysse Nardin
Marine (far left) and
a commemorative,
Champagne-dialed
Heuer Carrera

that it’s a watch you can either dress up or go ing on a show called “Meet the Browns” with Tyler
casual with, and I like that Ulysse Nardin “look” Perry, and I found a dealer that carried it, and had
that reminds you of yachts and the ocean. one left of the model I wanted, with this blue dial.
I called the dealer and asked if they could hold it
MB: In addition to simple dials with big numer- for me until the next day. They agreed, so that
als here, there seem to be quite a few chronographs watch came home with me from Georgia.
in your collection. Are you a fan of that complica-
tion in particular? MB: Has your growing watch connoisseurship
AJ: I do like chronographs even though I never found its way into your roles? Have you ever been
use the function. I am a fan of the German com- able to choose your character’s watch, or made
pany Junghans, and particularly this blue-dialed suggestions about what that character would
model, the Meister Chronoscope, which looks wear?
tremendous. I think I bought it the same day I saw AJ: I do, but it’s very limited because sometimes
it in a magazine. I was in Georgia at the time, work- on a set they use knock-offs, unless it’s a big-
budget movie, in which there’s product place-
ment. On many [smaller budget] projects, they
want to use Rolexes, Cartiers, Breitlings, maybe

For a while I thought Omegas, but they can only get knock-offs, which
I don’t like to wear because then I’m supporting

my career would be
that industry. So in those cases I tell them, “No
watch,” or I wear my own. I have been in some
big-budget movies, but the producers don’t use

in either the watch me for product placement – they’ll use Salma

Hayek or Jennifer Lopez or Benicio del Toro, and

industry or the arts.

they’ll give me a Timex [laughs].

MB: Does your character in “Mayans MC,”

Antonio Jaramillo Michael “Riz” Ariza, wear a watch?

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 INTERVIEW − Antonio Jaramillo

Photo: Prashant Gupta/FX

Jaramillo portrays a
member of an outlaw
motorcycle club on
“Mayans MC.”

Jaramillo’s collection
includes both three-
hand automatics and
chronographs.

AJ: I was supposed to, but the one they gave me

wasn’t really right; it was a little too gaudy. Plus,
I wear a lot of rings and other accessories in that
role, so the watch seemed to be too much. I do
wear some of my watches on set, and the other
cast members are always saying, “Let me see your
watch!” because they don’t know much about
watches. They know Rolex and Cartier, maybe
Audemars Piguet and Hublot because all the bas-
ketball players wear those, but they see mine and
ask, “What the hell is a Ulysse?”
reserves and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Memovox alarm
MB: I know you read WatchTime, and you’re con- watches. I can buy them used, but I’m always cau-
tinually seeking watch knowledge. Are there any tious to do that because I like to go to the author-
pieces out there now that you’re feeling the need to ized dealers rather than getting them online from
add to your collection? some guy whose face I never even see.
AJ: I like a lot of them, but I have to distance
myself because despite being very fortunate with MB: Any other watches or brands that you’d like
my career in this industry, the fact that I grew up in our readers to know you own or appreciate?
an orphanage hasn’t left me. I can’t bring myself AJ: I like Chronoswiss, especially the jump-hour
to spend huge sums on such things because I feel watches they do. I like Graham watches; they’re
guilty knowing that there are children without a little bulky for my wrist, but I think they look
basic necessities, like food, water and medication. pretty cool with that lever design. As far as ladies’
I have a cap: if it’s more than $7,500, I walk away, watches, I love Blancpain’s mother-of-pearl dials,
even though I know some watches are worth it, and Chopard’s designs are really beautiful.
like those beautiful Breguets, and collectors’ items Really, if I didn’t have children I would probably
like IWC’s Pilot Watches with eight-day power spend a lot more money on watches. —

66
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
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infinite passion for innovation – a quest for perfection.

Since 2015, OMEGA’s Master Chronometer testing for each individual timepiece has provided
customers with total transparency and a proven precision and performance they can trust. The Swiss
Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) has officially ensured that Master Chronometer testing leaves
no room for doubt. Only perfectly-functioning timepieces with extraordinary levels of magnetic
resistance earn the Master Chronometer certification.

So if it’s written on the dial, you know that OMEGA has gone beyond the normal benchmark to
guarantee you have a watch of the very highest standard.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 THOROUGHLY
TESTED AND READY
FOR THE FASTLANE
Driven by the OMEGA Master
Chronometer Calibre 9900, this 44.25
mm stainless steel model features a black
ceramic ring with the Speedmaster’s
famous tachymeter scale, and the
distinctive racing style minute-track
SPEEDMASTER RACING which gives the watch its name.
Vacheron Constantin is heralding
a new chapter in its history with
the introduction of the FIFTYSIX®
collection, inspired by a historical
Vacheron Constantin watch from the
1950s. FIFTYSIX® imparts a modern
momentum to the iconic reference
6073, launched by the Maison in 1956
and inspired by the Maltese cross. The
FIFTYSIX® collection comprises three 40
mm diameter models available in steel or gold
as well as one 41 mm diameter model in rose gold.

The FIFTYSIX® complete calendar model is the high-

light of this collection. Behind the monochrome dial
with opaline-sunburst effects lies one of the horolog-
ical complications most appreciated by connois-
seurs. The indications of the day of the week, date,
month and moon phase are driven by a self-wind-
ing movement, Calibre 2460 QCL/1, equipped
with a 22 karat openworked oscillating weight
adorned with the Maltese cross emblem. Its con-
struction and its extreme precision mean that the
moon-phase function requires adjustment only
once every 122 years (compared with once every
three years in a standard moon phase). The date is
displayed by a central gold hand, while the moon
disc at 6 o’clock features a blue night sky and 18K gold
moon. A 40 mm-diameter case in steel or 18 karat 5N
pink gold; gold Arabic numerals, hour-markers and hour
& minute hands; alligator leather strap with steel folding
clasp or pink gold pin buckle depending on the model: the
FIFTYSIX® complete calendar embodies a perfect blend of
Vacheron Constantin’s stylish elegance and the sophistica-
tion of its mechanical functions. (Hallmark of Geneva)

SPONSORED CONTENT
A MODERN EXPRESSION OF GRAND GENEVA WATCHMAKING,
VACHERON CONSTANTIN’S APTLY NAMED TRADITIONNELLE
COLLECTION IS ENRICHING ITS PALETTE WITH A COMPLETE
CALENDAR OFFERED IN ROSE GOLD OR PLATINUM.

Endowed with a stepped round case and lugs, fluted caseback, rail-
way-type minute track, Dauphine-type hands and “bâtons de
Genève” hour-markers, this elegant Traditionnelle watch
is powered by mechanical self-winding Caliber 2460
QCL, entirely developed and manufactured by
Vacheron Constantin. Its 308 components
include a 22K gold oscillating weight visi-
ble through the back of the 41 mm case.
Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz and
endowed with a 40-hour power
reserve, this mechanism drives
a complete calendar, as well as
precision moon phase and
age of the moon indication.

TRADITIONNELLE
COMPLETE CALENDAR
Collection Excellence Platine
Since its creation in 1960, every Grand Seiko watch craftsmen and women. A completely unique caliber,
has demonstrated a consistent commitment to the Spring Drive is powered solely by the motive force of
pure essentials of watchmaking. Precision, legibility a mainspring, as any luxury mechanical watch. What
and beauty are the attributes that have always defined distinguishes it is its use of an exclusive escapement
Grand Seiko. Today, Grand Seiko marries iconic system using three different forms of energy (mechanical,
characteristics of the brand to create the first ever U.S. electric, and electromagnetic) to regulate its precision.
exclusive collection. This mechanism, known as the Tri-Synchro Regulator,
enables an astounding precision nearly unattainable by
Inspired by a Japanese painting technique called Kira- any other mechanical watch. In both performance and
zuri, true to its translation “sparkling painting,” the appearance, it expresses the very best of Grand Seiko’s
lustrous dial takes a life of its own. Commonly found in watchmaking.
ukiyo-e paintings to create texture to the background
of Kabuki actors, the inspired technique adds depth Both dial and movement are enclosed in the iconic
and emotion to the timepiece in movement and 44GS case design and dual-curved sapphire crystal. The
light. Designed in platinum PT950, 18k rose gold and SHUIHFWO\ÀDWDQGPLUURUSROLVKHGVXUIDFHVVKDSHGE\
stainless steel, the dial on the platinum model has an =DUDWVX¿QLVKLQJFUHDWHDVHQVHRIKDUPRQ\EHWZHHQWKH
additional plating process to create its unique texture light and shadow. The gradient expressions of light and
and sparkle, while the unique blue dial of the stainless shadow found in Grand Seiko are based on Japanese
steel model shares influences from the clear blue skies aesthetic. Without one there cannot be the other. This
over the Sea of Japan. principle changed the standard of Grand Seiko design
from 1967 forward.
Assembled at the Shinshu Watch Studio in Japan, where
all Grand Seiko 9R Spring Drive are manufactured All three limited editions are available at select Grand
and created, the Spring Drive 9R15/65 timepieces are Seiko retail partners and Grand Seiko boutiques in the
designed, adjusted and tested by hand, by acclaimed United States.

SPONSORED CONTENT
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL LAUNCHES NEW GENERATION OF TIMEPIECES

Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence line stands for contemporary, elegant design, the brand extends its
exceptional quality in classic design. The German watch- successful Senator Excellence line, which is based on the
maker has given its Senator Excellence Panorama Date award-winning Calibre 36 automatic movement.
and Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase
a new look, lending this successful line the distinctive Like all other Senator Excellence models, these most
cachet of modern design. recent versions guarantee an exceptional standard of
quality. Every single one of these watches bears a special
The Saxon manufactory presents an extension of the Sen- engraving in the form of a “Q” on the case back, to be read
ator Excellence collection with the Senator Excellence as a promise. Together with an individual examination
Panorama Date and the Senator Excellence Panora- certificate, the Q guarantees the owner that his watch
ma Date Moon Phase in three new versions apiece—all meets the highest standards with respect to stability,
destined for the style-conscious gentleman. Following running time, precision and aesthetics, and that it has
the debut of initial versions in a classic style, the watches been thoroughly tested over the course of 24 days—under
are now available in blue, silver grey and white, mounted conditions even more demanding than those governing
in slightly bigger 42 mm stainless steel cases. With this German chronometer certification testing.

SPONSORED CONTENT
CALIBRE 36 COMBINES MAXIMUM STABILITY, PRECISION,
RUNNING TIME AND AESTHETICS
The watchmakers of Glashütte Original strive to achieve nothing less than
maximum precision and quality. The manufactory Calibre 36—the heart of
the new Senator Excellence—takes this credo to a new level. With a special
engraving on the case back as well as an individual examination certificate for
each new watch, Glashütte Original offers customers a promise of quality. This
guarantees that every Senator Excellence watch meets the highest standards in
terms of stability, precision, a running time of at least 100 hours, and timeless
beauty, and also assures that it has been thoroughly tested in a long-term
examination lasting 24 days.
 THE MANERO TOURBILLON DOUBLE PERIPHERAL �
A MASTERPIECE WITH FLOATING TOURBILLON

Carl F. Bucherer once again impressively demonstrates its The uniqueness of the complication is honored in the
innovative capacity with the introduction of the Manero timepiece’s appearance: the tourbillon floats promi-
Tourbillon Double Peripheral. The CFB T3000, a unique nently at 12 o’clock. With a diameter of 43 millimeters,
movement developed entirely in-house, is a world first that the classically round case made from 18-karat rose
combines a peripheral automatic winding system and a gold provides a harmonious and elegant setting for the
peripherally mounted tourbillon that appears to float. The new CFB T3000 manufacture movement. In addition to
internationally successful Lucerne-based watch manufac- exhibiting exceptional accuracy and first class precision,
turer is the pioneer of the peripheral automatic winding the movement features a stop-seconds function and
system that also provides the technological basis for the has been certified as a chronometer by the official Swiss
floating tourbillon. Chronometer Institute COSC.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 CARL F. BUCHERER
Facts and Figures – Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
Movement: Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, COSC-certified chronometer,
Diameter 36.5 mm, movement height 4.60 mm, total height on tourbillon 6.66 mm, 32 jewels,
power reserve of at least 65 hours. Functions: Tourbillon, hour, minute, small seconds,
stop-second. Case: 18K rose gold, convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on
both sides, sapphire-crystal case back, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 43.1 mm,
height 11.57 mm. Dial: silver-colored with appliquéd rose-gold-plated indices. Strap: hand-
stitched Louisiana alligator leather in dark brown, folding pin buckle in 18K rose gold.
 THE MONTBLANC 1858 COLLECTION:
CAPTURING THE SPIRIT OF MOUNTAIN EXPLORATION
Inspired by the legendary professional The new Montblanc 1858 timepieces capture
Minerva watches from the 1920s and 30s that the spirit of the past in a modern way,
were meant for military use and mountain expressing the trend of back to nature and
exploration, the 1858 collection pays tribute adventure. Combining materials such as
to the 160 years of the Minerva Manufacture a special alloy of bronze that evolves over
and its extraordinary heritage. These watches time with innovative and useful in-house
were highly accurate, legible and robust for use complications, like the Worldtime Geosphere,
in extreme conditions, and are the inspiration these timepieces are designed for the
behind this new collection, which is being modern day explorer who likes to set his own
enriched with new vintage exploration-inspired challenges. He is someone who likes to express
timepieces, featuring distinctive aesthetics, his own personal style, lives an authentic way
innovative complications, a mix of materials of life, loves adventure, and finds harmony with
and a choice of different case sizes. nature that allows him to reach new heights.

MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE MONTBLANC MONTBLANC MONTBLANC

LIMITED EDITION BRONZE CASE 1858 GEOSPHERE 1858 MONOPUSHER 1858 AUTOMATIC
featuring Stivale Calfskin Strap featuring “Nato” Strap CHRONOGRAPH CHRONOGRAPH
LIMITED EDITION 100

SPONSORED CONTENT
BR-X2 SKELETON TOURBILLON MICRO-ROTOR - Limited Edition of 50 pieces
Movement: calibre BR-CAL.381. Automatic mechanical. Micro-rotor tourbillon. The micro-rotor is machined in a very dense alloy, Reconit 18. This alloy contains
95% tungsten. 18.5 density, compared to steel (8.0), pure gold (19.3), 18-ct gold (15.5-16.5 according to color), platinum (20.7). Functions: hours and minutes.
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Case: 42.5 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Dial: skeletonized. Metal applique Superluminova®- filled indices. Metal skeletonized
Superluminova®- filled hour and minute hands. Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance: 50 meters. Strap: grey alligator. Buckle: folding.
Satin-polished steel. Price: $79,000

BR-X1 MILITARY - Limited Edition of 250 pieces

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.313. Automatic mechanical. ‘X’-shaped upper bridge. 56 jewels, 28,800 vph. Skeleton chronograph. Functions: hours, minutes,
small seconds at 3 o’clock. Skeletonized date at 6 o’clock. Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds. Case: 45 mm in diameter. HRT
(khaki High-Resistance Titanium) and black ceramic with rubber inserts. Rocker push-buttons. Case-back with opening in tinted sapphire crystal, centered on
the balance. Dial: skeletonized. Metal applique Superluminova® C3- filled indices. Metal skeletonized Superluminova® C3- filled hour and minute hands. Crystal:
sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance: 100 meters. Strap: perforated black rubber. Buckle: pin. Black PVD* coated steel. Price: $23,000

BR 03-92 NIGHTLUM
Movement: calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date. Case: 42 mm in diameter. Matt black ceramic. Dial: matt
black. Hands, numerals and indices coated in Superluminova®C3. Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance: 100 meters. Straps: grey-green
calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric. Buckle: pin buckle. Black PVD. Price: $3,800

BR03-92 DIVER BLUE

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date. Case: 42 mm diameter. Satin-polished steel. Unidirectional
rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale and blue anodized aluminum insert. Dial: blue. Appliqué metal indices with Super-LumiNova® inserts. Metal skeletonized
Super-LumiNova®-filled hands. Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance: 300 meters. Straps: blue rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic
fabric. Buckle: pin. Satin-polished steel. Price: $3,700

BR V2-93 GMT 24H

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.303. Automatic mechanical. Functions: hours, minutes and central seconds. Second time hand rapid-setting, independent from
the hour hand. Date. Case: 41 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Bi-directional bezel with 24-hour scale. Grey and black two-color anodized aluminum disc.
Screw-down crown. Sapphire case-back. Dial: black. Numerals and indices coated in white Superluminova®. Metal skeletonized Superluminova®-filled hour and
minute hands. Crystal: ultra-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance: 100 meters. Strap: satin-polished steel strap. Buckle: folding for metal
bracelet. satin-polished steel pin for rubber strap. Price: $3,500

BRX1�CE�TI�MIL BR0392�BL3�CE/SCA BR0392�D�BU�ST/SRB BRV293�BL�ST/SST

SPONSORED CONTENT
 BRX2�MRTB�SK�ST

BELL & ROSS

Inspired by the history of aviation and aeronautical instruments, Bell & Ross adheres to
rigorous military specifications in creating, designing and manufacturing watches that boast
perfect performance in extreme conditions This brand combines the talents of professional
users, master watchmakers, designers and engineers to create its exceptional collections.

Bell & Ross starts out from a basic principle: “Every detail has a specific purpose and
function.” The legibility, functionality water-resistance, precision and performance of each
timepiece are guaranteed by impeccable Swiss manufacturing and strict quality controls
implemented in the company’s Chaux-de-Fonds workshop.
TIME IS LEGEND

TRIBUTE TO THE ‘MANTOVANO VOLANTE’

There are some people in the history of sport that cannot be Tazio Nuvolari, the champion driver who dominated
defined merely as ‘champions’. When they exceed the limits the decades between 1920 and the late forties, is quite
set by their time and enter the superhuman ‘Hall of Fame’ obviously such a sportsman. Almost 30 years ago, the
of those who have broken all barriers by crossing the line of Swiss Maison Eberhard & Co. decided to celebrate his
the inconceivable, it is then that they undergo the natural enterprises by creating a collection that bears his name,
progression that turns them into legends. inspired by great victories realized by the champion.
The latest, Nuvolari Legend, seeks to celebrate the
essence of the man and of the sportsman, consecrating
him among those who will never be forgotten.

31138.01 31137.01 31138.01/31137.01

Automatic Steel Automatic Steel Trasparent caseback
in sapphire glass

SPONSORED CONTENT
VERY REFINED DETAILS
Nuvolari Legend is provided with a black dial with luminescent Arabic
numerals, minutes counter at 12 o’clock, chronograph hour counter at 6
o’clock, and spiral tachometer scale in km/h in the centre.

The movement can be admired through the transparent sapphire crystal

caseback, fixed by 8 screws, decorated with a checkerboard pattern inspired
by the race start flag and customised with the engraving of the model name
and the historic stylised Alfa Romeo Type 12C in which the great driver
obtained many victories.
 RAYMOND WEIL has always strived to achieve The RAYMOND WEIL Brand brings together all
watchmaking excellence and use its know- the elements of excellence of the Swiss luxury
how and expertise to meet the prerequisites of watchmaking industry. Precision, quality,
the much sought-after Swiss made label. While reliability, nobility and technical nature of the
this knowledge and the passion have been materials are many standards that the Geneva-
handed down from generation to generation based Brand combines to create its models.
within the family, so has the love of music! This know-how confers RAYMOND WEIL its
Music has always been an essential part of watchmaking legitimacy.
RAYMOND WEIL’s DNA. With over 35 years
of involvement in the music industry across Precision and attention to detail set the tone
all genres, the Swiss watchmaker composes its throughout the creation process. Inspiration
timepieces the way musicians compose their is what is found at the basis of each work of
chef d’oeuvres. art; precision is the indispensable condition
required for achieving excellence.

Tango 300 Marshall Freelancer Chronograph Maestro Moon Phase Parsifal

Amplification Limited Edition
Chronograph 7731�SC3�65521 2239�STC�00659 5180�SPS�00995

8570�BKC�MARS1

SPONSORED CONTENT
 Limited Edition
Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton
2785�TIC�60001

The new stylish skeleton Calibre RW1212 is proof of the ever-evolving achievements to
these in-house movements. The bold and distinctive model features an open-worked
dial, revealing most of the sophisticated movement with an intricate perlage finish.The
mechanical self-winding movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour
and has a 38-hour power reserve. Its RAYMOND WEIL engraved oscillating weight has
been skeletonized to increase the transparency of the timepiece.
The story of Chronoswiss is closely related to the continues to grow. So figuratively speaking, the
history of one iconic timepiece—the Regulator, model now embodies precisely the key role that
its first stand-alone model. The brand´s central it played on the walls of the watchmakers of the
motif and standard-bearer made its debut in late 19th century, where it set the time and was
1988 as the ‘Régulateur.’ At this time, quartz the reference point for accurate timekeeping.
watches were enjoying peak popularity, so it The Regulator has set the pace and become the
was of the utmost importance that the first touchstone for the entire collection and brand.
stand-alone Chronoswiss timepiece would
cause a stir. Thus, founder and watchmaker The iconic model is now all grown up—but it
Gerd-Rüdiger Lang took inspiration from the has lost none of its visionary character. With the
past: He adopted the Regulator-style dial, “Flying” Regulator, it even mastered 3D and is
which had primarily been used on wall clocks, now showcasing multi-level dials and complex
and put it on the wrist. Ever since, the char- movement modifications in true, inimitable
acteristic dial design with its off-center hours Chronoswiss style. In some of the innovative
and small seconds has been identified with the Flying Regulator timepieces, traditional hand-
brand, leaving its mark in the watch industry. icrafts such as guilloché have been brought
Recently, a completely independent collection back to life. Complementing the 3D dial con-
consisting exclusively of Regulator watches has structions, these artisanal techniques make the
been developed around this iconic model and Regulator watches even more unique.

FLYING REGULATOR FLYING REGULATOR FLYING GRAND

OPEN GEAR NIGHT AND DAY REGULATOR SKELETON
CH 8753-SISI CH 8763-BLBL CH-6723S-SISI

SPONSORED CONTENT
FLYING REGULATOR OPEN GEAR ANNIVERSARY EDITION,
CH-8753-BKOR, LIMITED TO 35 TIMEPIECES WORLDWIDE.
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Publisher’s Letter

SOMETHING(S)
NEW
— It is with great excitement that we present our very
first special section to celebrate WatchTime New York
2018. Our event has gained so much traction in the indus-
try and among collectors that we could not allow it to
come and go so quickly! Instead, we have created an
informative special that keeps the show alive into 2019.
Inside these pages you will find exclusive show cov-
erage highlighting the horological happenings from the
event weekend as well photographs and a special adver-
torial section spotlighting all of the sponsoring brands’
featured watches of the year.
For those of you who attended WatchTime New
York, this will be a trip down memory lane; but for those
who followed the show from afar, we hope it’s enough
visual enticement to get you to pull the trigger on a trip to
New York, as we will be returning to Gotham Hall again
in October 2019.
In addition to our New York show this year, we have
a special event up our sleeves for Los Angeles on May 3rd
and 4th! Stay tuned as we drop details for WatchTime LA
very soon.

My very best,
—
Sara Orlando
Publisher
—

92
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
Rexhep Rexhepi takes AkriviA into new territory AK-06 brings things to a new level by selectively
with the AK-06, the first timepiece from our work- showcasing all the components relating to the
shop to venture beyond the tourbillon. The AK-06 power reserve and its indication. As with all our cre-
is reworked to focus purely on time-telling without ations, the philosophical core is positioned at twelve
complication, and to highlight its impressive 100- o’clock. In the AK-01, it was the column wheel; in the
hour power reserve. The movement has combined AK-03, it was the strike hammer. In the AK-06, the
stop balance and seconds reset function. power reserve display takes this position, and the
mystery of high watchmaking is partially opened to
Another first for AkriviA is the dial-free design. the wearer as the mainspring is wound or unwinds,
Openworked dials are not new for AkriviA, but the and the mechanism reveals itself.

MOVEMENT New manual-winding AK-06 movement—developed,

decorated and assembled in House. 100 hours power reserve using a
jewelled, single barrel. With stop balance and 0-seconds reset function.
CASE DIMENSION 9.90 x 41.00 mm. JEWELS 28. BALANCE WHEEL
In-house developed variable inertia balance wheel (10.50 mm) using 4
adjustable weights combined with Breguet overoil. FREQUENCY 18,000
VPH. DECORATION The entire movement’s visible and non-visible
parts have been hand-finished to the highest Genevan traditions using
several traditional techniques: Black polish, Côtes de Genève, Hand
polished and brushed surfaces, Rhodium treatment, beading and hand
engraving, entirely handmade anglage.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

WATCHTIME
NEW YORK
2018
Over the past four years, it has become a tradi-
tion for the horological spotlight of the watch
world to shift from the valleys of Switzerland to
the bustling streets of Midtown Manhattan for
a single weekend in October. Dozens of brands
and hundreds of collectors and enthusiasts fly
from all around the world to Gotham Hall,
located above iconic Herald Square, to attend
WatchTime New York, which in its fourth year
has continued to grow and solidify its standing
as America’s most important and widely
attended public luxury watch event.
The 2018 edition, which happened over two
days during the final weekend of October, began
with a sold-out VIP cocktail party on Friday,
October 26, and was followed by a full day of
exciting panels, seminars, tours and events on
Saturday, October 27. Over the course of the two
days, more than 1,400 attendees came from 24
states and six different countries to see the lat-
est watches from 31 internationally renowned
watch brands: the largest number of exhibitors
and the highest number of registered attendees
the WatchTime New York Show has seen to date.

Gotham Hall, a historic venue in New York City

and home to WatchTime New York for the fourth
year in a row

94
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
LIMITED EDITION
POINÇON DE GENÈVE
JET D’EAU DE GENÈVE
COLLECTION

To celebrate the 10th year anniversary of the brand,

Ateliers deMonaco introduces two new models in
its Poinçon de Genève collection. This collection—
already very prestigious as it carries the
Geneva seal certification—becomes
even more special thanks to a new
grand-feu enamel dial. Ateliers
deMonaco is now part of
the very few watchmaking
manufactures that offer
Métiers d’Art timepieces.
The Geneva water jet is the city’s
most famous emblem and has
been chosen to be featured on
these two new dials. To produce
one dial by itself, it takes more
than fifty hours of work. Indeed,
the grand-feu enamel is the most
delicate and difficult decoration
technique. Each step requires time.

The Ateliers deMonaco Poinçon de Genève

Jet d’Eau de Genève collection is available with
18 karat white gold and 18 karat rose gold models,
and are available in a 40mm case diameter and a
9.2 mm case thickness. Limited to 18 pieces only
for each model, these watches are equipped with
the dMc-708 patented calibre, has a 38-hour power
reserve and 18 rubies. To perfect the watch, a hand-
stitched alligator leather strap with an 18 karat gold
pin buckle is attached.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

THE
EXHIBITING
BRANDS
The 31 brands attending WatchTime New York Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Bremont, Carl
2018 ranged from industry heavyweights to F. Bucherer, Czapek & Cie., Glashütte Original,
small-scale independent firms that are rarely Grand Seiko, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz,
seen in the United States. It’s this sort of broad MB&F, Omega, RGM, Romain Gauthier,
horological approach, involving a range of Vacheron Constantin, Kari Voutilainen
brands from monolithic corporations to tiny and Zenith.
single-workshop manufactures, that has allowed Also attending WatchTime New York 2018
the show to continue to evolve and bring in col- for the first time was G-Shock, which celebrated
lectors that range from neophytes to veterans. its 35th anniversary in 2018. G-Shock built out
Brands that showed for the first time at the lobby of the show in spectacular fashion,
WatchTime New York included: Akrivia, Bovet, highlighting the process and testing that each
Chronoswiss, De Bethune, Eberhard & Co., G-Shock goes through before it’s approved for
Fiona Krüger, Greubel Forsey, Kerbedanz, Lang sale. Two testing machines were on site, one
& Heyne, Montblanc and Raymond Weil. of which included a floor mat made of Alpha
Regarding the brand’s exhibiting for the Gel, a material used in the higher-end G-Shock
first time at WatchTime New York, Greubel models, that guests were invited to drop a raw
Forsey Co-founder Stephen Forsey said, “What egg on, to view the shock absorption process.
is great about this show is that it has such a nice Two days and zero broken eggs later, collec-
diversity of companies, large brands and tors were convinced of G-Shock’s durable con-
independents, and attendees of different ages struction. The other test was focused on
with such a level of passion and knowledge. To impact, involving guests placing a G-Shock in
have such an event in New York is very a machine that would slam it against the
important for American watch collectors.” ground. Another memorable aspect of the
Returning brands from previous years G-Shock buildout included a display of tradi-
included: Ateliers deMonaco, Baume & Mercier, tional samurai armor.

96
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
Engaged in a constant quest for quality, Baume & Mercier introduces its first in-house mechanical self-
winding calibre, the Baumatic™ BM12-1975A. A creation that pushes back the existing limits of efficiency and
reliability.

The advent of the Baumatic™ movement represents the first combined introduction of a silicon balance-spring
and a high-performance escapement. Antimagnetic, three times lighter than the ordinary alloys used for
hairsprings, resistant to corrosion and less sensitive to small impacts and repeated vibrations, silicon enables
spectacular progress in terms of horological innovation. Despite its intrinsic qualities, a watch is impacted by
a number of inherent and external factors that can inconvenience its user. With the Baumatic™ BM12-1975A
calibre, Baume & Mercier is enhancing the user experience in four key sensitive areas:

- A FIVE-DAY POWER RESERVE – 120 hrs.

- ACCURACY – - 4/+6s per day
- ANTIMAGNETIC MATERIALS – 25x higher than the current norm
- EXTENDED WARRANTY – No service needed for 5-years

The Baumatic™ is not only a hassle free watch in its function, but an uncomplicated purchase with
prices starting at $2,750 USD. An incredible value for a timeless watch that is only offered by Baume
& Mercier. Five years in the making, the Clifton Baumatic™ collection is the latest and, by far, the
most exciting offering by Baume & Mercier.

SPONSORED CONTENT
WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

Thirty-one watch brands attended the show in

2018, ranging from independent watchmakers
to industry heavyweights.

98
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 RÉCITAL 22 GRAND RÉCITAL

Maison BOVET harmoniously combines masterful

technique, traditional decorative arts, exceptional
chronometry, and customization, offering to its collectors
the noblest and most poetic expression of time in its new
five-times patented Récital 22 Grand Récital.

The Récital 22 Grand Récital is a Tellerium-Orrery for

the wrist, with the flying tourbillon representing the
sun, surrounded by fiery rays on the carriage bridge.
The hemispherical earth, adorned with engraving and
luminous hand-painting, rotates on its own axis and
shows the hours on a natural 24-hour cycle. At the base
of the globe, a graduated scale between the tourbillon
and the globe displays the hour with an indicator covered
with luminescent painting.

Collectors may choose the orientation of their painted

world map, positioning their home country on the earth-
sun axis at noon so that the timepiece displays whether
it is day or night in their location through the black and
white ring surrounding the earth. Meanwhile, a spherical
moon orbits the earth according to its exact synodic
period, i.e. 29.53 days, and registers a discrepancy of just
one day every 122 years. Retrograde minute and power
reserve indications are displayed on hemispherical
sectors curved to mirror the globe, magnified by sapphire
glasses, and a circular aperture positioned on the left-
hand side of the tourbillon carriage displays the date. between the upper lugs. The patented double-sided
flying tourbillon regulates this caliber, which operates on
Reversing the timepiece, the viewer beholds a vast bridge a nine-day power reserve.
decorated with circular Côtes de Genève beneath its large
sapphire crystal. Various apertures open onto the hour, The beveled case in a unique shape of a writing desk of
day, month, and leap-year indicators, and a sapphire the Récital 22 measures 46 mm in diameter and mirrors
date disk, displayed on both sides of the movement. This the structure of its movement. The Récital 22 Grand
symphony of indications acts in concert as a mechanical Récital is presented by BOVET’s workshops as a limited
brain that governs the perpetual calendar and all the edition of 60 movements, with 20 cases in red gold, 20 in
Tellerium functions via a single push piece, located titanium, 10 in platinum, and 10 bespoke.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

THE WATCHES
As WatchTime New York has grown, many
brands have seized the weekend as an oppor-
tunity to debut new watch models and collec-
tions to the U.S. market for the first time. This
year, the show served as a platform for a num-
ber of brands to either release new models just
in time for the show or use the show as the first
opportunity for American-based collectors to
see the watches on their own turf.
Models making their U.S. market debut
included: the Akrivia Chronométre Contempo-
rain, which joined founder Rexhep Rexhepi in
an inaugural visit to the United States; the
square-shaped Lang & Heyne Georg; Raymond
Weil debuted a new version of the Calibre
RW1212 Skeleton as part of its Freelancer Col-
lection; Grand Seiko unveiled its first series of
limited editions for the U.S. market with three
new timepieces; American watch brand RGM
debuted four new models that included a vari-
ety of arts and handcrafts with dials constructed
using wood marquetry, hand painting and
American-made cloisonné enamel; and Britain's
Bremont launched its eighth historical, limited-
edition timepiece, the Bremont Supersonic,
which commemorates the 50th anniversary of

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
Czapek & Cie. harks back to the origins of one of the watch industry’s
most prestigious names, which was founded by two Polish émigrés
who sought refuge in Switzerland after Poland’s November
uprising. The Patek, Czapek & Cie. watch brand was born when
Antoine Patek and François Czapek joined forces in Geneva.
The partnership lasted six years, after which the two gentlemen
parted ways, both continuing in the watch business. But while
one of them grew into what is today one of the most coveted
names in watchmaking, the other, after a period of great glory,
mysteriously vanished.

On 10th November 2015 the Czapek name and brand were

revived in a new company in true 2.0 style, encouraging watch
aficionados to invest directly in the brand through a one-of-
a-kind crowdfunding equity financing. The exceptional launch
collection, called Quai des Bergues, stands out with a unique
design featuring two sub-dials in the bottom half of the dial,
recalling the original Czapek & Cie. watch No. 3430 from 1850. It is
fitted with a 7-day proprietary movement developed in partnership
with Chronode (Jean-François Mojon). The leading model in the
collection, the No. 33bis, won the Public Prize in the Grand Prix de FAUBOURG DE CRACOVIE
l’Horlogerie in Geneva (GPHG) in November 2016, only one year “L’HEURE BLEUE”
after the relaunch of the brand. The company’s second PRE�SELECTED AT GPHG 2018
collection, Place Vendome, a limited edition
suspended tourbillon with a second time-zone
also developed with Chronode, was launched
one year later in 2017, while 2018 welcomed
Czapek’s third collection. The Faubourg
de Cracovie line features a contemporary
integrated colum-wheel chronograph
with vertical clutch, manufactured by
Vaucher in a bespoke version exclusive
to Czapek. Both the Place Vendome
Tourbillon Suspendu and the Faubourg
de Cracovie ‘L’Heure Bleue’ have been
pre-selected for the GPHG in 2017 and
2018 – a big achievement for a young and
independent Swiss made watch brand, “for
watch lovers, by watch lovers”. Today, Czapek
is available in the US at Oster Jewelers, in
Denver (Osterjewelers.com). QUAI DES BERGUES NO.33BIS PLACE VENDOME TOURBILLON
WINNER OF THE PUBLIC PRIZE SUSPENDU “ICI ET AILLEURS”
AT GPHG 2016 PRE�SELECTED AT GPHG 2017

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

The Concorde. MB&F also provided collectors on hand for collectors to view and try on.
attending the show an exclusive sneak peek of Rexhep Rexhepi and Akrivia had the
an LM2 with a purple dial that was released two Chronometré Contemporain, which took home
weeks after being first seen at WatchTime New the Men’s Watch award, on display. De Bethune,
York 2018. which won the Chronometry award for the DB28
Frequently described as “The Oscars of Starry Varius, had the watch available to col-
Watchmaking,” the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de lectors. Vacheron Constantin, which won the
Genève (GPHG) is the most coveted prize in the Revival Prize for the Historiques Triple Calen-
world of horology and takes place two weeks dar, also had the watch on display. Other brands
after WatchTime New York. However, during that were nominated and attended WatchTime
the show, a number of the selected brands were New York included: MB&F, Kari Voutilainen,
in attendance with their nominated watches on Czapek & Cie., Montblanc and Zenith. Greubel
display. Bovet, which won the most important Forsey won the Mechanical Exception prize for
prize of the year, the Aiguille d’Or, for the the Grande Sonnerie, but the model was not on
Récital 22 Grand Récital, had the winning model display at WatchTime New York 2018.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 ABOUT DE BETHUNE
Located in L’Auberson, in the Canton of Vaud, the De Bethune watch Manufacture is above all a research and
development facility, an atelier working with cutting-edge technologies, albeit in the spirit of the great 18th century
master-watchmakers. This naturally involves designing and crafting all components individually, while paying
meticulous attention to even the slightest details. Not doing more, but instead doing better; drawing inspiration from
the past and perpetually reinventing it; building bridges with all fields of knowledge: such are the principles driving the
elaboration of De Bethune’s mechanisms and artistic criteria. The quest for perfection and beauty guides the work of the
master-watchmakers as they patiently craft exceptional timepieces. The pure style, taut lines and slenderness of the cases
represent the inimitable hallmark of De Bethune creations.

DB25 STARRY VARIUS

CHRONOMÈTRE TOURBILLON
DB28 STEEL WHEELS DB28 KIND OF BLUE
De Bethune revisits the tourbillon as TOURBILLON
The new DB28 Steel Wheels an authentic wristworn regulator, an
is all about transparency historical breakthrough in the evolution In honour of the colour blue,
and light, thanks to a dial of mechanical watches. This masterpiece a fundamental element of
providing stunning views of is revealed only on the back of the watch, its identity, De Bethune
the mesmerising movement to genuine connoisseurs capable of presents a monochromatic
architecture. In keeping comprehending its passionately subtle range of its iconic model the
with the design codes of its features. The latter include the inner DB28 Tourbillon. Radical and
predecessors, it perpetuates power and beauty of the starry sky, along magnetic, the colour is created
the heritage of the Maison: an with the evocation of the most famous by an artisanal and natural
ideal blend of daring aesthetics 18th century clocks through the sterling treatment of the metals.
and exceptional mechanics. silver hours and minute rings destined to
acquire a sublime patina over the years.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

SATURDAY watchmaking discussed a variety of topics from

SESSION:
how their careers in watchmaking got started,
the appeal of acquisition and investment by

PANELS, larger conglomerates, and how to approach col-

laborations. After the first panel, Kingston took

TOURS, registered guests on a tour of the exhibiting

WHISKEY
brands. Kingston’s annual tour and his "Inside
Basel-Geneva" presentation, which took place

TASTING
later that afternoon, have become a much-
anticipated highlight for show guests.

AND MORE The mid-day, keynote panel of WatchTime

New York 2018, "The Future of Watch Collect-
After the Friday night cocktail party, the show ing,” convened a diverse group of industry
opened Saturday morning with an opportunity experts and pundits to discuss how they’ve seen
for guests to “Meet Independent Watchmaking the industry, and the collectors inside of it,
Stars,” such as Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia, Fiona evolve during their career. The panel of indus-
Krüger, Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, try authorities was moderated by WatchTime
Kari Voutilainen, Romain Gauthier, and Roland Editor-in-Chief Roger Ruegger, and its roster of
Murphy of RGM. In this panel, moderated by experts included: Jeremy Roizin, Managing Part-
noted collector and friend of WatchTime Jeff ner, WatchAnish; Davide Cerrato, Managing
Kingston, these six titans of contemporary Director of the Montblanc Watch Division; Giles

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
FIONA KRÜGER INVITES US
TO CONSIDER TIME ITSELF
THROUGH HER EXPLOSIVE
NEW CHAOS COLLECTION.
The concept of entropy explains that, as time passes,
we move from order towards chaos – this was the
inspiration for Mechanical Entropy, the first offering
from the Chaos collection.

This new design features Fiona Krüger’s first exclusive

calibre and continues the brand’s avant-garde style and
underlying philosophical bent.

EXPLODING TIME � THE MOVEMENT

The Chaos movement was designed by Krüger and
created exclusively for her brand. It was developed from
the idea of stretching out the mechanism, exposing the
components as if they were exploding outwards. The effect
is enhanced by jagged apertures around the high-speed
parts, dynamic skeletonization of wheels and an engraved
barrel cover. The hand-finished movement is treated to
add gold or rhodium accents. Art and watchmaking merge
in this avant-garde design, elevating the movement from
technical element into something artistic.

Mechanical Entropy
Limited production per annum of 40 pieces.

Movement: Mechanical Manual movement, CHAOS I, designed

by Fiona Krüger and developed exclusively for the brand.
Manual wind, 50 hours power reserve.
Two-tone finishing available in two colour options: black
satin finish with Rhodium or Gold detailing. Hand-finished
components, including engraved and hand-painted mainspring
barrel and skeletonized hour wheel. Patented AgenPit
regulator.

Case:Titanium with brushed and polished finishing, sapphire

crystal with metal hour markers on the front, open case back,
water r length and width 48 x 40 mm, height
7.5mm.

Bracelet: Hand-stitched technical fabric with engraved

titanium pin buckle

SPONSORED CONTENT
WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

English, Co-Founder of Bremont; Ruediger

Albers, President, Wempe USA; Tirath Kamdar,
Founder of TrueFacet; and Reginald Brack, pri-
vate collector and industry analyst for The NPD
Group. After the panel, guests were invited to
enjoy a whiskey tasting from Four Roses Bour-
bon on the show floor that included three kinds
of Four Roses: Yellow Label, Small Batch and
Single Barrel.
The final panel of the day, “An American
Movement,” sponsored by Gear Patrol, was mod-
erated by WatchTime Editor Logan R. Baker and
Gear Patrol Assistant Editor Oren Hartov. The
panel provided an intimate look at the prolifera-
tion of independent, small-scale watch brands
based in the United States over the past few years.
Often run by passionate watch enthusiasts, these
brands are able to take risks in design and pro-
duction at a much more accessible price point
than larger, more well-established companies.
These brands, represented by Brew Watch Co.
from New York City, Monta Watch from St. Louis,
and Oak & Oscar from Chicago, are also a source
of hope for a greater revival in American watch-
making, a once-prominent industry that has
remained near-dormant for decades.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
G�STEEL COLLECTION
The G-STEEL models are refined and versatile, combining
high-quality materials with the legacy of G-SHOCK’s
standard of toughness. Stainless steel and resin are layered
together into an unbreakable combination, simultaneously
emitting a premium look and resiliency.

DOUBLE�LAYER BEZEL,
HYBRID RESIN AND STAINLESS
CONSTRUCTION, REFINED
METALLIC FINISH

G�STEEL GSTB100XA�1A
This is the first time the G-STEEL connected
lineup offers a model with a carbon bezel that
is the product of state-of-the-art materials and
innovative technology. The bezel of this model
has a highly fashionable design, and is made
of lightweight yet very rigid carbon material—
outstanding shock resistance characteristics.
Highly scratch resistant, clear sapphire glass
is used for the crystal to enhance readability
and appearance. This watch is equipped with
Bluetooth® that lets it connect with a smartphone
via the G-SHOCK Connected app, and receive
time information from an internet time server.
The functions include Tough Solar in combination
with CASIO original power saving technology
for a stable supply of power, high brightness LED
light illumination, and dual dial World Time.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

In 2018, WatchTime New York attracted

established watch collectors from all over the
United States.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
When founding Greubel Forsey, Robert Greubel imised by halving the margin of error and maximis-
and Stephen Forsey focused all their energy on re- ing timing precision, a development which resulted
search and development, with the objective of im- in two patents.
proving the performance of their timepieces. �eir
e�orts gave rise to many fundamental watchmaking Light �oods into the timepiece through its sapphire
advancements, which took concrete form as inven- crystal case, which alone required over 900 hours of
tions, focusing particularly on chronometry. machining. �is showcases the three-dimensional
architecture from every angle and reveals the clev-
�e Double Balancier—Greubel Forsey’s sixth Fun- erly engineered and enhanced dial and movement
damental Invention—is a phenomenal timepiece with its myriad materials and �nishes. We dive deep
in many ways. Its principle: to drastically enhance into Greubel Forsey’s universe of excellence.
timekeeping precision. Robert Greubel and Stephen
Forsey began exploring the Double Balancier—i.e. All the inventiveness and artistry of Robert Greubel
two �xed oscillators positioned along two di�erent and Stephen Forsey are revealed in this magni�cent
axes at precise predetermined angles—more than creation. �is Double Balancier Sapphire with mir-
ten years ago in order to improve the average tim- ror polished blue dial is issued as a Limited edition
ing rate in stable positions. �anks to the combined of just 11 pieces, built by the expert hands of the
e�ects of the constant spherical di�erential and the Greubel Forsey Atelier, exclusively for our North
angle of the balances, the e�ects of gravity are min- American partners.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

THE FHH
INTRODUCES
WATCH LIVE
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH)
Academy, the training and certification branch
of the FHH whose mission is aimed exclusively
at professional sales staff, presented a new app
to an audience of brand representatives and
industry media at WatchTime New York 2018.
Over the four years of its existence, the Acade-
my has provided training for 11,000 people
worldwide, and today offers 300 courses, in 10
languages, for the watch retailing community
every year, led by a team of 21 certified trainers
on every continent. The stated objective of the
Watch Live app, according to the FHH, is quite
simply “to increase the desirability of haute hor-
logerie.” As every watch buyer and watch seller
knows, the rise of e-commerce has challenged
watch producers’ brick-and-mortar distribution
channels to adapt – to offer the best in-store ex-
perience, with sales staff capable of meeting the
end customer’s increasingly high expectations.
Watch Live was designed as the “go-to app for
keeping up to speed with the latest news from
brands and the industry as a whole.” It will offer
product information, history and brand news,
WatchTime New York also set the stage for the including a feed that aggregates posts by FHH
U.S. debut of the FHH's latest app to help partner brands, all accessible with a single click.
educate professional sales staff. What that means is that sales associates will be
able to access information instantly and at any
time to quickly answers any questions that even
the most knowledgeable customer might pose.
Watch Live is available in 10 languages, mean-
ing it has a potential audience, according to the
FHH, of 15,000 sales professionals worldwide.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 THE JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS COLLECTION

Inspired by the iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968, Jaeger-LeCoultre

developed a collection to join the brand’s existing pillars. The Jaeger-
LeCoultre Polaris collection channels the best of the Grande Maison’s
watchmaking tradition and its attention to detail, while creating a
contemporary sporty yet elegant timepiece, with a vintage touch.

Not just a single homage to a historical reference, the Jaeger-LeCoultre

Polaris collection takes the spirit of Memovox Polaris and applies it to
today’s man of action with a full range of timepieces: a three-hand
automatic, a chronograph and a chronograph world time, as well
as two models with a stronger vintage feel: the Jaeger-LeCoultre
Polaris Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox.

Combining the high manufacturing know-how of Jaeger-LeCoultre,

where all mechanical movements are made in-house, with the
robustness, design aesthetic and sporty elegance today’s man demands,
the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is destined to become the symbol for an
active lifestyle.

Comprised of an initial release of five models, with one limited edition paying
tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Memovox watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre
Polaris collection is a new pillar, one that redefines sporty elegance.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

Watch Live takes a three-pronged approach The eight participating FHH brands that
to educating professional sales staff. The first is have joined forces with the FHH to build the
“Follow,” which allows the user to get up to Watch Live app are A. Lange & Söhne, Baume &
speed with developments regarding all eight Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Officine
FHH partner brands with a single tap, rather Panerai, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin.
than with eight separate searches. The second The download is free, and content is continu-
is “Learn,” which provides “bite-sized” learn- ally being updated directly by the brands.
ing opportunities on the basics of watchmaking “It is so fitting to launch Watch Live here at
as well as specific aspects of important watch WatchTime New York, a venue dedicated to
brands and collections. Finally, there’s “Play,” excellence in timekeeping in a city that not only
which entices users with interactive quizzes to stands as a beacon in the world of high-end luxury
win points toward FHH Certification as well as shopping, but is also synonymous with the pre-
goodies, invitations and exclusive gifts from the ciousness of time itself,” said Pascal Ravessoud,
individual brands. International Development Director of the FHH.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 Since it was first established in 1738, Jaquet Droz has perpetuated the spirit of innovation and aesthetic
refinement of its founder, Pierre Jaquet-Droz. Jaquet Droz timepieces have always combined design, materials
and expertise with the most unexpected mechanical refinements.

1. The Grande Seconde Skelet-One marks a real stylistic turning point in the history of the Jaquet Droz
Ateliers de Haute Horlogerie. This creation allows light to penetrate the inner depths of the mechanism on
the brand’s iconic model, while preserving the “8” shape that forms its aesthetic signature. The back of the
watch offers a clear view of the components, including the double barrel and a hollowed oscillating weight
on which the watch’s number is engraved.

2. For its 280th anniversary the brand pays tribute to the Grande Seconde first brought back to life in 2002.
With the new Grande Seconde Tribute, limited to 88 pieces, it is the first time a wristwatch version is
offered in yellow gold. The model is adorned with a dial in Grand Feu enamel, a centuries-old technique
that remains difficult to achieve, and to which only a handful of watchmakers can lay claim.

3. Lady 8 Flower is a limited edition of 8 pieces and features a floral motif that honors the naturalist tradition
of the brand. It showcases a lace-like bouquet of flowers carved from mother-of-pearl. The automaton is
positioned at the top of the timepiece, animated by a pusher at 2 o’clock. When the pusher is pressed, it
activates a lotus flower with gold petals that open to reveal a diamond.

4. An iconic model in the Jaquet Droz philosophy, the Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel features a new
watchmaking complication: a moon phase display. The astronomical moon phase requires correction
only once every 122 years and 46 days.

GRANDE SECONDE GRANDE SECONDE LADY 8 FLOWER GRANDE SECONDE

SKELET�ONE TRIBUTE MOON BLACK ENAMEL

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

VIP GUESTS
WatchTime New York 2018’s guests included
notable international watch collectors such as
Astute amateur stand-
author John Goldberger and TimeZone Man-
out Brian Ceballo (above
left) paid a visit to the aging Director William Massena, social media
show, and Watch Anish's influencers, and an appearance during the VIP
Jeremy Roizin partnered cocktail event on Friday, October 26, by Num-
with WatchTime for the ber-1 ranked amateur boxer, Brian Ceballo.
fourth consecutive year.

PARTNERS
WatchTime New York would be impossible to
accomplish without its partners, which included,
for the fourth consecutive year, the media plat-
form Watch Anish, who sponsored the
WatchTime New York photo booth. Additional
supporting partners included SWISS Airlines,
Wempe Jewelers, and Four Roses bourbon. Media
partners included The Wall Street Journal, Robb
Report, Gear Patrol, Watchonista, The Horolog-
ical Society of New York and the RedBar Group.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 MAXIMUS: THE LARGEST TOURBILLON
FOR A WRISTWATCH IN THE WORLD.
With its 27-millimeter cage, which is almost twice the size of the largest one known
to date, the biggest wristwatch with tourbillon in the world, by KERBEDANZ,
couldn’t be called anything but Maximus.

Not only does the Maximus flying tourbillon by KERBEDANZ allow one to
better observe and understand the subtleties of this fascinating mechanism,
thanks to its sheer size, but it also demonstrates the extent of the company’s
watchmaking competencies: This watch required conception and
manufacturing of a special balance spring, a rack with a screw for fine
adjustment, and a balance wheel. The cage of this watch makes a full rotation
once every six minutes, and not in sixty seconds, which is usually the case.

Movement: Giant center flying tourbillon with in-line pallets,

cage diameter of 27mm, rotating every 6 minutes.
Hand-wound mechanical tourbillon movement developed by
Kerbedanz, 34 jewels, 18,000 vph (2.5Hz).
4 barrels in parallel, leading a central wheel mounted on a ball
bearing, providing the torque needed to power a tourbillon of such
a dimension. More than 54 hours of power reserve.
A total of 415 components, tourbillon cage entirely of titanium,
made of 73 components, weighing 1.35g. Movement diameter: 40mm.
Movement height without the cage, 8.35mm; with the cage 13.2mm.
2 patents pending
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon 6 minutes, power reserve
indicator.
Case: Titanium or Gold 18K, diameter 49 mm. Designed and
manufactured by KERBEDANZ. Sapphire dome crystal and case back
with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistant to 3 atmospheres, time-
setting crown at 2 o’clock and centralized winding using case back.
Dial: Gold. Exclusively designed, manufactured, hand-decorated by
KERBEDANZ.

Limited to 99

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

GUEST TESTIMONIALS
— —
“I am a collector from Montreal “My love for watches has
and I’ve attended Baselworld for increased over the years and the
the past 15 years. Your NYC goal was to one day go to
show was an opportunity for me Basel/SIHH. When I heard about
to meet representatives of this event, I had to go. We made
numerous very interesting arrangements and drove all the
brands in a more intimate way from DC. Can’t wait for the
setting where you can talk with next one!”
the principals of the brands, view —
products up close and network “I had hoped to go to Basel but
with other passionate collectors heard that some watch houses
like me.” were downsizing or simply not
— going to Basel. So the time/cost
“Overall, I thought the event was to go to Basel seemed like ‘too
very informative and helped me much.’ Hence, NYC was an easy
make a decision on a watch pur- trip from my winter home in
chase I’ve been pondering for Bonita Springs, FL.”
months. Very classy event, look- —
ing forward to next year!”
—

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
Luxury is redefined by a fine little manufacture based on the outskirts of Dresden. Where craftsmanship is
executed in high precision and dedication to details is looking for their equal.

LANG & HEYNE with a small team consisting of watchmakers, CNC-engineers and finishers, creates
sophisticated unique pieces and small series for discerning clients. All of them are made of precious materials,
with a combination of extraordinary constructions and delicate engravings.

The production of a LANG & HEYNE timepiece requires the highest level of manual skill and knowledge
of the experienced employees, starting with the construction and manufacturing of the components of the
movement, hands and cases to the finishing – the aesthetic and functional processing of the raw materials. In
doing so, LANG & HEYNE revives long forgotten handcraft methods and technologies such as silver grinding.

Watches made by LANG & HEYNE reflect the tradition of the 18th and 19th century of Saxon art of
watchmaking. They stand for honest handmade watches of the highest quality. The collection ranges from
large round pocket-watch looking models with a diameter of 44 mm as well as smaller watches with a diameter
of 39 mm. Two extravagant rectangular models, one with a minute tourbillon, complement the family of LANG
& HEYNE only recently.

“The path between the initial design of the watch and the final product is long and exhausting sometimes.
However, it’s a great pleasure for me to manage this path step by step, to create artworks which live longer than
me,” states Marco Lang, founder and creative head of the manufacture.

SPONSORED CONTENT
 WATCHTIME NEW YORK − Highlights

SPONSOR TESTIMONIALS
— —
“Team very present, responsive. “The show was FANTASTIC!
Nice venue, good quality atten- It was amazing and you
dance on Friday evening. can count us
Several anchor brands and good in for next year!”
independents representation. —
Only serious watch show in “Thank you for a great
North America.” show this year.
— I thought the new floor
“Congratulations on a plan worked out
fantastic show! very nicely and the extra
The quality of collectors was just lighting around the
as good on Saturday if not better show is much appreciated.
than Friday. I think this Attendees were
year was the best from qualitative and a good audience.
my perspective.” Two days went by so fast.”
— —

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 MAXIMILIAN BÜSSER & FRIENDS
After decades conforming to the rules of corporate watchmaking, Maximilian Büsser broke the chains and started a
rebellion in 2005; a rebellion called MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends. MB&F is an artistic concept laboratory based
around a simple idea: to assemble collectives of independent watchmaking professionals to develop radical horological
masterpieces. By nurturing teams of talented individuals, harnessing their passion and creativity and crediting each
person’s essential role, MB&F uses their synergy to become much greater than the sum of its parts. Respecting tradition, but
never constrained by it, we reinterpret traditional, high-quality watchmaking into three-dimensional kinetic sculptures.

HOROLOGICAL MACHINE N°9 ‘FLOW’

Inspired by the dynamic profiles of automotive and aviation mid-century design, HM9 Flow treads the path first opened by
the HM4 Thunderbolt and HM6 Space Pirate, utilising a geometrically complex combination of milled sapphire crystal and
titanium case elements. But HM9 goes beyond its predecessors, redefining what was thought to be possible in case design.

Reminiscent of a jet engine, the highly complex case encloses an equally complex manual winding movement, developed
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gearbox of the HM9 engine: a planetary differential that averages the output of both balances to provide one stable reading
of the time.
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CONCLUSION
WatchTime New York’s growth reflects both the
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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 RGM ART AND OLD�WORLD CRAFT COLLECTION

Inspired by a trip to the Geneva Art Museum and inspiration for the wood marquetry dial. The art on the
old-world craft, RGM Watch Company has created dial is framed by a 40mm stainless steel coin-edged
a collection of men’s and ladies’ watches with hand USA made case.
crafted art as the theme. The RGM Art and Old-World
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over the world. Techniques included in the collection PLQLDWXUH$ORWXVÀRZHULVSRUWUD\HGXVLQJOXPLQRXV
are cloisonné, wood marquetry, and miniature hand paint, revealing depth and character to the piece.
painting, one using luminous paint and the other 7KHVHFRQGPRGHOIHDWXUHVDÀRUDOGHVLJQZLWKDEOXH
performed on a mother of pearl canvas. titmouse painted on a mother of pearl dial, which
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The Men’s Collection highlights the arts of Cloisonné in a 28mm rose gold case.
and Wood Marquetry. The cloisonné dial is inspired
by Claude Monet’s Regatta at Argenteuil. From St. Custom, one-of-a-kind pieces are a hallmark of RGM.
Augustine, Florida, Castillo de San Marcos is the These works of art for the wrist continue that tradition.

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 THE ROMAIN GAUTHIER
HERITAGE AND FREEDOM COLLECTIONS
With his Heritage collection, Romain Gauthier has The Romain Gauthier Freedom collection, meanwhile,
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these creations speak to those marching to the beat of
Two fine examples of this collection include Prestige their own drum, pieces such as the sleek Prestige HMS
HMS in red gold and Insight Micro-Rotor platinum Black Titanium with bright white accents and Super-Lu-
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 VOUTILAINEN 217QRS
First seen back in January at SIHH, the in-house caliber Grossmann curve on its interior. The escapement also
at the heart of the 217QRS was directly influenced boasts a world first by using two escapement wheels
by Voutilainen’s previous Vingt-8 movement and is in this configuration. By using two wheels rather
representative of Voutilainen at his absolute best. than one, it provides a direct impulse to the balance
One of the major highlights here is the retrograde through the jewels. This utilizes much less energy than
date that is integrated directly into the main plate. traditional lever escapements, which should allow for
To set the date, all you have to do is press the crown greater longevity between service intervals.
down, moving the date hand a day. On the final day of
the month, the date hand uses a special mechanism As with any Voutilainen timepiece, all the finishing
designed by Voutilainen to move the date hand back here is done by hand and is unmatched in its quality.
to day one without bouncing out of sync upon arrival.
The 39-mm wristwatch comes in a total series of 30
Attached to the extra-large balance wheel is a balance watches: 10 in platinum, 10 in white gold, and 10 in
spring that uses a Phillips overcoil on its exterior and a rose gold.

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 CHRONOMASTER
EL PRIMERO OPEN � 42 MM
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 SPOTLIGHT − Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic

Getting a
“Round”
Legendary Swiss watch brand Patek
Philippe forges forward – making even
greater strides in the world of women’s
mechanical watches.

—
by
Roberta Naas
—

— Just a couple of months ago in Milan, Patek Patek Philippe and Women’s Watches
Philippe made a major announcement: the Make no mistake, Patek Philippe is not a new-
brand was releasing a new collection for comer to building women’s mechanical watches.
women. The unveiling came 19 years after the Since its inception in 1839, the brand has built
release of its big designed-for-women watch watches for women. In fact, as early as 1851,
line, Twenty-4. Now, the new collection, Patek Philippe crafted exquisite pocket and pen-
Twenty-4 Automatic, brings the heretofore dant watches, all lavishly finished with engrav-
manchette-shaped, predominantly quartz col- ings, gemstones or enamel work. In 1851, Queen
lection to new heights. As Patek Philippe this Victoria purchased a blue enamel pendant
year celebrates 20 years of the Twenty-4, the watch, and a decade later, in 1868, Patek
new round ladies’ Twenty-4 Automatic watches Philippe crafted its first women’s wristwatch
with mechanical movements round out the for a Hungarian countess. Over the ensuing cen-
series with ease and elegance. tury and a half, the brand endowed a host of
According to Thierry Stern, President of ladies’ watches with complicated movements,
The all-new Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Patek Philippe, “It is time for women of today including minute repeaters.
Automatic series of watches features to have their own watch. Not something that Throughout the past two decades of the 21st
elegant round cases with slightly looks like or is an extension of a men’s watch, century, after launching the dynamic, ultra-fem-
cushion-cornered edges as it integrates but something made for them. It was time for inine Twenty-4 manchette watch with a quartz
with the lugs and supple bracelet. us to evolve.” movement (except for a Haute Joaillerie model

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
SPOTLIGHT − Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic

Easily one of the more

creative dials for the
Twenty-4 Automatic
round watches is a linen-
like motif created by
intermixing horizontal
and vertical lines to
emulate Shantung silk.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 SPOTLIGHT − Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic

that was released in 2003 with a manual-wind drawing board, tossing away as many as 40 dif- brand’s Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar, and
caliber), Patek Philippe has released some ferent prototypes to arrive at the one that was a rotor finely finished with cotes de Genève. The
important women’s mechanical watches. worthy of joining one of the most successful entire movement, which offers 35 to 45 hours of
Among them: the Ladies First Chronograph, women’s watch collections on the market. power reserve, is elaborately finished with cham-
Annual Calendar, Ladies First Minute Repeater The new Twenty-4 Round Automatic is a fered and polished edges and with Geneva strip-
– each limited by production. Turning to its sleek timepiece that measures 36 mm in diam- ing, and carries the Patek Philippe Seal. Natu-
beloved Calatrava, the brand unveiled the Ladies eter and is offered in bracelet versions only, rally the caliber can be viewed via a sapphire
First Minute Repeater, and then a Nautilus with a supple new three-row link bracelet with crystal caseback.
Dames and an Aquanaut Luce. cambered edges for comfort and looks. The “Why should I create an all-new movement
None of these watches, however, was part watch, which is water resistant to 30 meters, is when we have something wonderful that we can
of a collection geared exclusively for women. decidedly feminine and offers hours, minutes, adapt to this new collection,” says Stern. “The
They were either one-watch unveilings or watches sweep seconds and a date indication in a har- case is totally new and the movement is recon-
that utilized existing cases (first designed for monious balance on the dial. Additionally, the figured to fit the new Twenty-4.”
men). As such, five years ago, Patek Philippe sapphire crystal is slightly domed to comple-
began a journey that would take the women’s ment the case profile. Five Variations of the Twenty-4 Automatic
Twenty-4 collection and enhance it with an off- According to Stern, the goal with the new For the launch of the new Twenty-4 Automatic,
shoot style that is perfect for today’s contem- collection is to reinforce Patek Phillipe’s ladies’ Patek Philippe unveils five models. Each is, of
porary and sophisticated woman who wants a mechanical watch collection – aiming to reach course, created in the brand’s Geneva Manu-
highly wearable mechanical watch on the wrist. women who already know of the brand and the facture and finished to the highest standards
Twenty-4, but who want mechanics under the both inside and out. Additionally, each of these
The Making of the Twenty-4 Automatic hood, so to speak. Instead of creating an all-new models features a hand polished bezel that is
The journey, according to Stern, was not an easy movement for the new Twenty-4 Automatic, meticulously set with 160 Top Wesselton dia-
one. Throughout the five years of research and though, Patek Philippe turned to a workhorse monds (0.77 carats) in a “Dentelle” (lace-like)
development to achieve the perfect round case movement whose precision and excellence pattern forming two rows. All five of the new
with integrated bracelet and feminine over stand the test of time. The 217-part Caliber 324 watches feature the aforementioned finely pol-
architecture, he and Sandrine Stern, head of cre- S C self-winding movement powers the all-new ished new bracelet, along with a new patented
ative for the brand, regularly went back to the collection. The movement incorporates the fold-over clasp.

The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic Each Patek Philippe One version of the Twenty-4
watches house the brand’s Caliber 324 SC self- Twenty-4 Automatic Automatic features Dentelle-
winding movement with 217 parts, including watch is fitted with an set diamonds on the bracelet
a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar. all-new bracelet clasp. as well as the case.

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
All of the five versions of the Twenty-4 Automatic watches measure 36 mm in
diameter. Crafted either in stainless steel or in 18-karat rose gold, four of the
five feature two rows of diamonds on the bezel. The fifth version is set with
added diamonds on the bracelet.

Every Twenty-4 Automatic boasts a clean bracelet. Crafted in 18k rose gold, this version is with today’s generation of buyers. The campaign
dial design with applied Arabic numerals and set with 469 Top Wesselton diamonds (weighing for the new Twenty-4 Automatic was shot on
baton hands that are coated with luminescence. about 1.88 carats). This model retails for $56,702. location in Rome by Dutch photographer Anton
Each of the versions has a different dial color. Corbijn. Corbijn is not only a photographer, but
The two polished stainless-steel models are Begin Your Own Tradition also a music video director and film director,
offered with either a sunburst gradiated To underscore its commitment to today’s gen- and has been responsible for the visual pho-
gray/black dial or a rich blue sunburst dial. The eration of women, Patek Philippe is also gener- tography for both Depeche Mode and U2 over
rose-gold versions feature either a chocolate ating an all-new advertising campaign via dig- the course of three decades.
brown gradient dial, or a very creative silver/gray ital, video and print assets. The “Begin your own The Patek Philippe “Begin your own tradi-
dial with an elaborate vertical and horizontal tradition” tag line is a play on the brand’s long tion” campaign features successful women on
satin finish that yields a linen-like texture lasting, major-impacting campaign, “You never the rise in their careers in a lifestyle motif, at
designed to recall Shantung silk. The stainless- really own a Patek Philippe, you merely look work, having coffee, going to meetings and the
steel models retail for $26,083, while the rose- after it for the next generation.” The message in like. The video component is especially com-
gold versions retail for $45,361. the new campaign is clear: defy the norm; tell pelling thanks to the Roman setting and the
The fifth watch in the collection also boasts your own story. meticulous fashion choices of the women. It is
the Shantung-style dial, but is ultra-feminine While Patek Philippe is not abandoning its expected that the campaign will reach the dis-
thanks to the extra Dentelle-set diamonds that beloved “generation” campaign, the new “Begin cerning female audience and draw attention to
grace the crown, lugs and outer links of the your own tradition” concept relates more closely the new round Twenty-4 Automatic. —

131
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 PROFILE − Mühle Glashütte

Windmill
In a
Storm

—
by
Mark Bernardo
—

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
PROFILE − Mühle Glashütte

German watchmaker Mühle

Glashütte turns 150 years
old in 2019, looking back on
five generations of family
stewardship through turbulent
times for both Germany and
the watch industry.

— The final day of hostilities between the Allies

and Germany in World War II would also come
to be remembered for the turning point that it
wrought, in tragically ironic fashion, to Ger-
many’s proud and historical watch industry. It
was on May 8, 1945, shortly after Adolf Hitler
had surrendered to Allied forces to bring an
end to the European conflict, that Russian
planes dropped bombs on the town of
Glashütte, in the German state of Saxony near
Dresden, leveling many of the watch factories
that were, at the time, producing timekeeping
devices for military usage. The embattled
nation’s watch manufacturers would essentially
cease to exist in their current states for several
decades to come, with many in that industry
profoundly affected by the hard times ahead.
Few, however, had as much history on the line
as did the Mühle family.

Mühle Glashütte, which marks its 150th

anniversary in 2019, is nevertheless regarded as
a relative newcomer to the watchmaking game:
it did, after all, only produce its first wristwatch
in 1996, and doesn’t claim a long lineage of mak-
ing personal timekeepers like other German
companies such as A. Lange & Söhne, Tutima
and the various companies that merged to form
today’s Glashütte Original. It does, however,
boast a rich tradition of expertise in producing
precision instruments, including timepieces.
Owned and operated by five generations of the
Mühle family, the company is currently the only
Glashütte-based watch manufacturer still owned
by a local family, one established in the region
for more than 700 years, going back to the 1300s
and the Kingdom of Bohemia.
The Mühle family crest was established in
1629, and emblazoned with the Latin phrase
“Nec Spe, Nec Metu,” meaning “Without hope,

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WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 PROFILE − Mühle Glashütte

without fear” – a testament to the family’s his- In the early 20th

tory of facing life’s toughest challenges with res- century, R. Mühle
olute courage and a dose of pragmatic realism. & Sohn made watch-
making tools as well as
Inevitably, the centuries to come would offer
instruments for cars
many such obstacles to overcome. and motorcycles.
Robert Mühle, born in the Saxon town of
Lauenstein in 1841, was destined from an early
age to establish his family’s beachhead in time-
keeping. In 1860, he completed an apprentice-
ship with legendary watchmaker Moritz Gross-
mann as a precision toolmaker for pocket-
watches. (Grossmann, of course, would go on
to be regarded, along with Ferdinand Adolph
Lange and Julius Assmann, as one of the
pioneers of Saxon watchmaking, and would
have his name resurrected for a modern luxury
watch brand.)
The entrepreneurial Robert, descendant of
barons, pastors and musical directors, charted
a new path for his family line when he estab-
lished his own company in April 1869. During
these heady times for the Glashütte watch
industry, the “Robert Mühle Glashütte i.Sa” com-
pany was the sole manufacturer of measuring
instruments for Glashütte’s watchmaking work-
shops as well as for the German School of Watch-
making. In 1896, Robert was recognized for his

The Mühle family crest

is emblazoned with the
Latin phrase for “With-
out hope, without fear.” achievement, receiving the Gold Medal of the
city of Dresden, joining a group of entrepre-
neurial pioneers who helped cement Glashütte’s
reputation as the cradle of German horology.
As the 20th century dawned, the family tool-
making business, now called R. Mühle & Sohn
upon the ascension of Robert’s sons Paul,
Alfred and Max as co-owners in 1905, was flour-
ishing, despite Europe’s eventual plunge into
the quagmire of World War I. In addition to pro-
ducing precision measuring instruments and
gauges, the business expanded to another grow-
ing industrial field in 1918, making speedome-
ters, rev counters and dashboard clocks for early
automobiles, counting among its clients Saxon-
based carmakers such as Horch and DKW. Even-
tually, the firm also branched out into making
speedometers for motorcycles; Mühle
speedometers – whose faces were inscribed with
the image of a windmill, the English translation
of the name “Mühle” – were found on early 20th-
century motorbikes from such historically
Robert Mühle founded
his precision instruments important producers as BMW and Triumph. R.
company after an Mühle’s first wristwatch Mühle & Sohn produced the very first
apprenticeship with from 1996 speedometer used on a BMW Motorcycle; an
the legendary Moritz example of one of these early devices is on dis-
Grossmann. play at the Glashütte Watchmaking Museum.

134
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 PROFILE − Mühle Glashütte

Left: Historical clocks

on display at Mühle-
Glashütte’s HQ

Below, far left: The

Medal of the City of
Dresden awarded to
Robert Mühle

Below, left: Hans-

Jürgen and Thilo Mühle

Mühle name – unlike other prestigious names

like Lange, Grossmann, Assmann and Hellwig,
all of which were absorbed into the state-owned
Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB) conglomer-
ate – would not spend the Cold War years in
corporate limbo.

Hans Mühle (1903-1970), the son of Paul and

Elisabeth Mühle, was born in 1903 with preci-
sion timing in his blood, from both his mother’s
and father’s sides. His mother hailed from the
Stübner family, which made its name in Ger-
many as a respected producer of chronometers
used for the lighting of beacons. In 1945, with
what remained of the original company’s assets
The expansion and diversification of its for the family, the company and the nation were incorporated into the GUB, Hans founded a new
manufacturing business helped R. Mühle & Sohn still to come. company, “Ing. Hans Mühle,” which built upon
survive the tumultuous times ushered in by the The bombing of Glashütte at the end of Mühle’s longstanding reputation for precision
Great Depression. While other Glashütte com- World War II, and the subsequent postwar par- by specializing in measuring equipment for the
panies were forced out of business by the dire titioning of Germany into East and West, with photography and cinema industries as well as
economic straits of the 1930s, Mühle continued the watchmaking East under the thumb of pressure and temperature gauges. Perhaps
supplying car clocks, speedometers and other Soviet Russia – effectively put a hard stop to the because of this company’s great success in these
time measurement devices to its broadening operations of Saxony’s once-thriving watch man- fields, Ing. Hans Mühle was able to maintain its
roster of vehicle manufacturing clients, and ufacturers, including R. Mühle & Sohn, which independence as a privately owned company
eventually, with a second World War on the hori- had at that point been in business, and in fam- in the Communist-controlled German Demo-
zon, turned out increasing numbers of on-board ily hands, for more than 75 years. But the third cratic Republic (GDR, or East Germany) until
clocks for military use. But the most trying times generation was determined to ensure that the the early 1970s.

135
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 PROFILE − Mühle Glashütte

Hence the founding, in 1994, of “Mühle- water-resistant steel case, remains in ongoing
Glashütte GmbH Nautische Instrumente use on German Maritime SAR vessels to this day.
und Feinmechanik,” (abbreviated as Mühle- Mühle has since expanded its military-designed
Glashütte)” headed by Hans-Jürgen, who had lineup to include the SAR Flieger Chronograph,
exited his post at the GUB but maintained his used by German rescue pilots to calculate flight
contacts – many of them former marine speeds, and the Seebattalion GMT, a tactical
chronometer customers – in the world of ship- watch for the German Navy.
ping and boat manufacturing. Demand for pre- A company that can look back on 150 years
cise nautical timepieces, which were no longer of history has surely experienced highs and lows,
being produced by the now economically hob- and Mühle-Glashütte did experience some
bled GUB, was huge, and a new company with growing pains in its early years. One of its neigh-
the trusted Mühle name, which began opera- bors and competitors, Nomos, sued the com-
tions on April 1, 1994, with only two employees, pany in the early 2000s over its use of “Made
was ably positioned to fill it. in Glashütte” on the dials; legally, 50 percent of
One year later, a request from one of the movement’s value must be produced in
Mühle’s shipyard customers for “robust, water- Glashütte to use the designation, and Nomos
resistant wristwatches” to be used on its ships claimed that the Swiss-made ébauches Mühle
ushered in a new era for the fourth-generation used for its movements didn’t meet the stan-
firm. With the release of its first wristwatch in dard. The case ended with Mühle-Glashütte
1996, an unnamed divers’ piece engineered for restructuring under Chapter 11 bankruptcy and
use on ships, Mühle joined a small but growing to a commitment by the company’s leadership,
fraternity of privately owned watchmakers under Thilo, to produce more movement
either resurrected or newly established in the parts in-house.
wake of reunification – A. Lange & Söhne, The most noteworthy of these is the “wood-
co-founded by a descendant of the legendary pecker neck” regulator now incorporated into
Ferdinand A. Lange; Glashütte Original, the
Swatch Group-owned successor to the GUB; and
Nomos Glashütte, a Bauhaus-inspired brand
founded two months after the Wall fell, among
The Robert Mühle them – though it had been operated by a single
Auf/Ab marked family longer than any of them.
145 years for the With luxury mechanical watches coming
company.
back into vogue after the 1970s -’80s Quartz Cri-
sis had run its course, Mühle-Glashütte com-
mitted more and more resources to its wrist-
After Hans’s death in 1970, his son Hans- watch business, and by the turn of the millen-
Jürgen Mühle, born in 1941, took over the busi- nium, would welcome the fifth generation of the
ness, only to see it expropriated by the East Mühle family into the fold. Hans-Jürgen’s son
German government in 1972, renamed “VEB Thilo Mühle, born in 1968, came on board as the
Feinmechanik Glashütte” (“Glashütte Precision head of product development for this new and
Engineering”) and, by 1980, finally absorbed vital product segment in 2000, joining his father
into the GUB, which had, of course, gobbled up as a Managing Director in 2004, and taking on
many of its contemporaries and competitors sole management responsibility in 2007. Dur-
decades earlier. Hans-Jürgen stayed aboard as ing his tenure, the company has not only grown
plant manager and, eventually, as Managing and expanded its product lineup but has also
Director for the GUB itself, responsible for taken steps toward vertical integration of its
global sales of the country’s marine chronome- production process.
ters and European sales and distribution of GUB-
produced wristwatches. It was during this era of father-son manage-
Only a decade later, however, the windmill ment that perhaps the most iconic Mühle
of history began turning furiously again, bring- Glashütte wristwatch, which hearkened back to
ing profound changes to Germany and its watch the company’s history of providing instruments
manufacturers. The end of the Cold War and its to military divers, emerged. The first S.A.R.
most seismic and symbolic event, the fall of the Rescue Timers were designed in cooperation
Berlin Wall that heralded the reunification of with the German Maritime Search and Rescue
Germany, offered a new lease on life to Service (S.A.R. stands for “Search and Rescue”)
Glashütte’s historical watch companies, and an and made their debut in 2002. The watch,
opportunity for the Mühle family to once again equipped with a Sellita SW200-1 self-winding
take the reins of its own corporate destiny. movement housed in a 42-mm, 100-meter

136
WATCHTIME FEBRUARY 2019
 PROFILE − Mühle Glashütte

Mühle calibers, developed as an evolution of, a three-quarter plate, adjusted in six positions of bronze, a material with a long pedigree in the
and Mühle might say, improvement upon, the and bearing a crown wheel and ratchet wheel shipping industry and very au courant in today’s
traditional swan’s neck regulator used in other mounted in a visible position, made its debut in watch world.
Glashütte-made movements. Its special shape, the Teutonia III Handaufzug, an elegantly styled, The latter’s influence is felt in the Teutonia
for which Mühle has received a patent, is historically inspired model in a vintage-look case Sport I Chronograph, with its racing-inspired,
designed for greater shockproofing. with a coin-edged bezel and a crisp white dial bidirectional tachymeter bezel that can be used
Mühle followed up this innovation in 2008 with black Arabic numerals, railway track min- in concert with the stopwatch function to time
with its own variation on the classical three- utes ring and Breguet hands. speeds over distances up to 1,000 miles. Mili-
quarter plate, another hallmark of traditional More so than any of its contemporaries in tary aviation also gets a nod, from Mühle’s
Saxon watchmaking. This plate – so named Glashütte – it is literally one of nine watch com- Terrasport collection, inspired by historical
because it covers approximately three-quarters panies occupying two streets in the center pilots’ models, which includes chronograph and
of the movement’s back side, more than do the of town – Mühle is known for its tough, accu- GMT versions. Mühle’s popular 29er collection,
mainplates of most Swiss-made movements – rate sports watches and tool watches, many of named after a class of sailing dinghies piloted
was notable for its removable escape wheel them directly influenced by the company’s deep in competitions for the German Sailing Associ-
bridge and was first incorporated, along with roots in the maritime and automobile indus- ation, takes its cues from the sporty side of nau-
the woodpecker neck regulation, into the base tries. The former is represented by robust tical navigation rather than the military.
ETA 7750 chronograph movement and altered undersea dwellers such as the ProMare Go For the company’s 145th anniversary in
it so significantly that Mühle felt obliged to (loosely translated as “for the sea”), a 300-meter 2014, however, Thilo Mühle opted to pay trib-
rename it Caliber MU 9408. This movement now water-resistant diver with a nautical blue color ute to his ancestor with a more elegant style
powers Mühle’s ProMare Chronograph models. scheme; the Rasmus 2000, named for the of timepiece, and to equip them with entirely
patron saint of sailors, developed in collabora- new movements. Caliber RMK 01 and RMK 02
In 2011, Mühle ascended the next rung up the tion with research divers at Germany’s Univer- are both manual-winding calibers, designed in
ladder of manufacture status, releasing the first sity of Rostock, and boasting a hefty 2,000-meter the classical Glashütte style, with stylistic hall-
movement to be fully designed in-house from water resistance; and the recently introduced marks such as engraved balance cocks and
scratch. The hand-wound Caliber MU 9411, with Yacht-Timer, whose 44-mm case is constructed screwed gold chatons, as well as the now-rare
three-fifths mainplate and, of course, the wood-
pecker neck regulator.
The Yacht-Timer Caliber RMK 01 powers the Robert Mühle
Mühle’s woodpecker
features a neck regulator Auf/Ab, offered in steel and in a rose-gold
bronze case. limited edition. Its stark white dial, coated in
several layers of varnish that mimic the look
of enamel, recalls the era of Glashütte pocket-
watches, with a small seconds subdial at
6 o’clock and an “Auf/Ab” (“Up/Down”) power-
reserve display at 12 o’clock. The Robert
Mühle Kleine Sekunde, limited to 145 pieces in
steel, contains Caliber RMK 02, which is
slightly thinner than Caliber RMK 01, owing to
the absence of the power-reserve indicator mod-
ule. The watch’s case uses the same finely
notched bezel as the Auf/Ab models, while the
silvered dial offers a more traditional small-sec-
onds (“kleine sekunde”) subdial at 6 o’clock.
Rounding out the family, collectively dubbed the
R. Mühle Manufacturing series, is the recently
released Zeigerdatum model, which adds a clas-
sical pointer date to the power reserve and small
seconds displays.
Through wars, political struggles, legal bat-
tles and economic headwinds, Mühle Glashütte
has been an enduring and indefatigable pres-
ence on Germany’s precision timekeeping scene,
and an essential part of the country’s genera-
tions-spanning watch industry saga. The brand’s
growing and diverse portfolio, with its embrace
The SAR Rescue of new technologies, innovative materials and
Timer (far left) and a healthy respect for its past, would seem to
the SAR Flieger indicate that this windmill has no intention of
Chronograph slowing down. —

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 TEST − Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43

NAVITIMER
REBOOT
Breitling is charting new paths as it reinvents
itself. Here’s a close look at the updated
Navitimer without a navigation
slide rule function.

—
by
Jens Koch
—
Photos by
Olaf Köster
—

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TEST − Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43

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TEST − Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43

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 TEST − Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43

— The Navitimer pilots’ watch has been known

for two vital functions: its chronograph and the
iconic slide rule bezel used for navigational
SPECS
—
calculations. Now, a reassessment is in order. Breitling
With the 2018 models, Breitling is offering the Navitimer 8 B01
Navitimer without a chronograph and, like our
Chronograph 43
test watch, without a slide rule bezel – all part of
a broader positioning of the brand by its new Manufacturer:
CEO Georges Kern, the former head of IWC. Breitling Chronometrie, Allée
du Laser 10, 2300 La Chaux-
Breitling is best known for its successful pilots’
de-Fonds, Switzerland
watches, but Kern’s plans include bringing the
company’s more elegant models and ladies’ Reference number:
watches to the fore. He is also assigning the AB0117131B1A1
charismatic Navitimer name to a broader spec- Functions:
trum of watches in order to boost sales. Hours, minutes, small seconds,
Breitling will still produce the classic Navitimer chronograph with 30-minute and
but will supplement its ranks with new kinds 12-hour counters, date
of models. Movement:
The Navitimer 8 collection name is a nod In-house Caliber 01, automatic,
to the Huit Aviation Department (huit means chronometer, 28,800 vph, hack
eight in French) that Breitling established in mechanism, quick date adjust-
1938 to produce cockpit clocks with an eight day ment, 47 jewels, fine regulator
power reserve. It also reveals an interest in the with eccentric, Kif shock absorber,
Glucydur balance, power reserve =
Chinese market, where “8” is a lucky number
70 hours, diameter = 30 mm,
and where Breitling hopes to see strong growth. height = 7.2 mm

Elegant Design Case:

The new Navitimer certainly looks more elegant Stainless steel, domed sapphire
crystal with double-sided anti-
without the slide rule feature. The design of the
reflective coating, screw-down crown,
dial tracks and the polished bezel and hands fully threaded caseback with
add to its elegant look. The type used for the transparent sapphire crystal
numerals and the pump-head pushers provide window, water resistant to 100 m
retro details. Breitling looked to its own vintage
Bracelet and clasp:
cockpit chronographs for elements like the min-
Stainless-steel bracelet with single-
utes track with its triangular markers. If you order side folding clasp and safety bar
the model with the alligator strap with con-
trasting stitching, it enhances the retro feel. Rate results:
Deviation in seconds per 24 hours
Closer inspection of the new model reveals
(With chronograph switched off / on)
a pared-down version of the logo without wings
or anchor. While these two symbols represented Dial up ______________________________________________ +1 / 0
the company’s importance as a supplier to pro- Dial down ____________________________________ +5 / +2
Crown up ______________________________________ +1 / -3
Crown down ______________________________ +4 / +2
Crown left______________________________________ +5 / 0
Crown right __________________________________ -2 / -3

Breitling will still

Greatest deviation ________________________ 7 / 5
Average deviation ____________ +2.3 / -0.3
Average amplitude:

produce the classic Flat positions ________________ 295° / 273°

Hanging positions ______ 267° / 236°
Dimensions:
Navitimer b ut will Diameter = 43 mm, height =
14 mm, weight = 193 g

Breitling in-house
Caliber 01 with column-
supplement its Variations:
With alligator strap ($7,710); with
rose-gold case and alligator strap
ranks with new
wheel chronograph and
decorative finishes is ($21,030)
visible through the Price:
sapphire crystal
caseback. kinds of models. $8,080
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 TEST − Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43

fessional pilots and divers, the modified logo

suits the elegant retro design of this timepiece.
You can see the sunburst finish on the dial
The combination of brushed and polished
surfaces on the case is striking and continues
on the bracelet. The asymmetrical links of the
SCORES
—
and the grooved structure of the subdials by “Professional III” stainless-steel bracelet bring Breitling
using a watchmaker’s loupe. However, this also some dynamics into play. The bracelet is nicely Navitimer 8 B01
reveals that the tracks on the small seconds as finished and hugs the wrist comfortably with-
Chronograph 43
well as the chronograph hour and minutes dials out pulling, with sufficient space between each
are not perfectly centered. link. However, the folding clasp with its stamped Bracelet and clasp (max. 10 points):
The position of the date, however – angled metal safety bar seems a bit simple for this price The steel bracelet with asymmetric
links is nicely finished. The simple
toward the inside of the dial – is more of a design level. But this doesn’t detract from its useful-
folding clasp has a secure hold. 8
issue. Because the movement did not undergo ness – the clasp is easy to use and holds the
any modifications, the date is in the same place bracelet securely. The clasp with its brushed fin- Operation (5):
as it is on the classic Navitimer, though its dis- ish and polished bar continues the design of the A hack mechanism, quick-set date
tance from the edge of the case is not as obvi- and fluted crown make setting
case and bracelet.
easy. Starting the chronograph
ous when the slide rule track fills that space. The design of the new Navitimer models
requires some force. 4
triggers starkly different reactions. Dyed-in-
Good Legibility the-wool Breitling fans have been critical of Case (10):
The dial has a lot to offer in terms of legibility. its remoteness from previous models. But taken Nicely polished and brushed-finish
case. Attractively shaped pushers
Some thought the traditional Navitimer dial, on its own merits, our test watch is pleasing,
have no play. 9
with its many tracks and numerals, was too busy. with a clean and open design. And anyone
The new version is tidier, with longer and wider looking for a tool watch can always turn to a Design (15):
hands, and is much easier to read. Elapsed time classic Navitimer. New Breitling design combines
is also easy to determine thanks to high-con- fashionably elegant details and
retro elements. 13
trast hands and the white tip of the seconds Decorated In-house Movement
hand. At night, the numerals, hour markers and When you turn over the Navitimer 8, you can Legibility (5):
hour and minutes hands glow brightly and clearly, see the in-house Breitling 01 movement in Easy to read in the daylight. The
so it’s easy to read the time, at any time. action through the transparent caseback. It hour and minutes hands, hour
In addition to the chronograph, our test markers and numerals glow brightly
shows an attractive exterior and you can see
at night, though elapsed time is
watch offers another way to measure time some of the chronograph mechanism. Breitling
not visible. 4
intervals – like vintage pilots’ watches, the bezel was lavish in its decoration, with sunburst fin-
with its small triangular arrow can be turned ishes, côtes de Genève, polished screws, plus Wearing comfort (10):
and aligned with the minutes hand. beveled and polished edges. The mainplate is The comfortable stainless-steel
bracelet doesn’t pull fine wrist hair. 8
plain and the stamped hammers and springs,
despite their solid look, show that Breitling is Movement (20):
still keeping an eye on costs. But they didn’t Decorated in-house movement
skimp on the chronograph control mechanism, with column-wheel control, vertical
a visible column wheel. The use of this complex, clutch, rapid advance date and long

BREITLING traditional system usually results in smoothly

power reserve. 18

— operating pushers, but this start button requires

more pressure than some, due to the unfavor-
Rate results (10):
The range of rate results in the
This Swiss watch brand is famous able ratio with which the reset hammer is pushed various positions could be closer.
for its Navitimer and Chronomat away from the reset cam, via the column wheel, Average deviation is quite low, with
little difference when the chrono is
pilots’ watches. In 2009, at the initial start.
engaged. 7
Breitling launched its own The movement also has a shock-absorbent
Overall value (15):
escape wheel that easily withstands impacts and
chronograph caliber, placing it in a fine regulator. But what you can’t see is that the The price is appropriate for a
the ranks of a manufacture. The caliber works with a modern vertical clutch, which
manufacture chronograph at this
level; still too early to determine
company's involvement in prevents unwanted jumps of the stop seconds
value over the long term. 13
aviation continues with its hand when starting. The movement also allows
Total:

84
production of multifunctional the date to advance instantly and permits cor-
rections to the calendar and time even around
watches for pilots, like the midnight without damage to the mechanism. POINTS
Emergency that has a unique
emergency alert function. In Precise Rate Results
2017, Georges Kern, former Breitling submits all of its movements for pre-
cision chronometer testing. We saw good results
head of IWC, took over the helm on the timing machine. Only the position not
of Breitling and is currently tested by the chronometer certification agency
restructuring its collection. (crown right), which we evaluated, ran into the

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 TEST − Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43

Pump-head pushers, a
coin-edge grooved bezel
and vintage-style numerals
give it a retro look.
The new
negative range. In the other positions, the rate
Navitimer The new Navitimer may not have the slide rule
remained at +1 to +5 seconds per day. The
average deviation, at 2.3 seconds per day, was
quite low. With the chronograph engaged, the
certainly looks bezel but it offers more in other areas: it with-
stands water pressure to 100 meters rather than
30, a result of the screw-down crown, and it offers
balance wheel movement remained within
a reasonable range. The average rate also
more elegant a value similar to other Breitling chronographs.
Comparable chronographs from Omega and
remained at a similarly high level.
Another important feature of the move-
ment is its extended power reserve. Conven-
without the slide Zenith are priced approximately the same.
Whether the Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph
can be deemed a “real” Navitimer is more an
iently, the caliber keeps going for 70 hours – long
enough for you to take off the Navitimer 8 on a
rule feature. argument over the name than anything else.
More important, perhaps, is the question of
Friday evening and wear it again on Monday whether it is a convincing chronograph – which
morning without rewinding. it is, with its extended-power in-house caliber
And how about the price? The version we and good rate results. And it gets high marks for
tested is $8,080, but you can save $370 by select- legibility, operation and wearing comfort. The
ing the alligator strap ($7,710) instead of the high-quality workmanship showed a few weak-
stainless-steel bracelet. The classic Navitimer nesses in some details but the fair price and
on an alligator strap costs $880 more ($8,590). attractive design balanced these out. —

143
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 CLOSE-UP − Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Automatic

Class Reunion
The fourth-generation Laureato has an automatic
—
by
caliber that Girard-Perregaux describes as its —
Photos by
Martina Richter “spearhead.” Is this brand equally adept at Olaf Köster
— —
preserving and cultivating the design codes
of this distinctive watch?

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CLOSE-UP − Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Automatic

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 CLOSE-UP − Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Automatic

— Watch collectors had been awaiting its

return. After a lengthy hiatus, which saw
almost 30 different references, Girard-Perregaux
finally brought the Laureato back into its col-
lection in 2017. It had already made its come-
back one year earlier with various limited edi- LAUREATO
tions commemorating Girard-Perregaux’s 225th
anniversary. The latest model is the fourth-
—
This watch’s Italian name can be translated as the “graduate.” Designed in
generation Laureato. the 1970s, its salient features are an octagonal bezel and a fluidly integrated
A look back leads to the 1970s, a decade steel bracelet.
when the watch industry was responding to a
demand for sporty and elegant timepieces that
had a distinctive aesthetic and could be worn
for every occasion. Girard-Perregaux commis-
sioned a Milanese architect to design the compact quartz movement. This caliber defined watch world at a time when the Milanese
Laureato, which translates as the “graduate.” the international standard with a frequency of architect likewise followed the zeitgeist and
He placed an octagonal component atop a ring, 32,768 Hz. So it’s no surprise that quartz watches sketched his own designs for Girard-Perregaux,
thus joining a polygon and a circle. To create belong to the current Laureato collection. which are more reminiscent of the dome atop
specific reflections of light, the sides of the Nor is it surprising to hear some sharp- a Florentine cathedral.
octagon traced gently flowing lines rather than tongued rogues mutter that the Laureato’s lat-
sharply defined edges, combined with convex est incarnation looks even more like Audemars The Laureato underwent its first revision in 1984.
and concave surfaces. The fluid transition from Piguet’s Royal Oak, which Gérald Genta It encased a mechanical movement for the first
the case to the integrated metal bracelet fol- designed in 1972. With a brawny bezel and vis- time in 1995, when manufacture Caliber 3000
lowed both the taste of the time and the trans- ible screws, Genta’s brainchild borrows some began ticking inside its case. The Laureato EVO2
formation in watch technology that Girard- details from an old-fashioned diving helmet. is larger, its bezel is broader and the links of its
Perregaux celebrated inside the Laureato in 1975: With this timekeeping creation, the famed Swiss integrated stainless-steel bracelet are shaped
the first appearance of an uncommonly slim and designer with Italian roots transformed the like the letter “H,” as are their counterparts on

New automatic Caliber GP01800-0008 builds

upon this manufacture’s experiences with
movement construction.

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 CLOSE-UP − Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Automatic

The trendy blue hue

has a modern look with
a fine clous de Paris
pattern on the dial.

LAUREATO
—
Quartz Crisis! What crisis?
Girard-Perregaux devoted a
great deal of effort in the
1970s to the development
of a quartz movement and
defined the international
standard frequency for
quartz movements (32,768
Hz), which was later adopted
worldwide. To pay due
respect to the “Quartz 1975: 1995: 1998: 2006: 2016:
Revolution,” the manufacture The first Laureato EVO2, the first The legendary The Laureato EVO3 The Laureato is
debuts with its mechanical Laureato, Tourbillon Under has an outsize relaunched in a
created the Laureato, an distinctive case and encases manufacture Three Bridges date display and limited edition to
iconic wristwatch with an quartz movement. Caliber 3000. appears in indicators for the celebrate Girard-
octagonal bezel and a fluidly a Laureato. moon-phase and Perregaux’s 225th
the remaining anniversary.
integrated stainless-steel power reserve.
bracelet.

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 CLOSE-UP − Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Automatic

The gentle lines of the case continue along the

stainless-steel bracelet and into the butterfly clasp.

our current test model. The case, which was for- The case’s compact middle piece is brushed theater. And that’s not all: the gentle lines of the
merly only available in stainless steel, now also matte all the way to the points where it transi- case and the softly flowing feel of the linked
comes in a titanium and gold version. The tra- tions into the wristband. Glossy finishing shines bracelet make the Laureato a sporty and elegant
ditional stainless-steel bracelet is still available, on the screwed back, which has a window of companion to wear on many diverse occasions.
but rubber straps and leather wristbands have sapphire crystal. The model is available with three different dial
been introduced as alternatives. In 1998, the leg- All these characteristics, including the case’s colors: silver, slate gray and blue, whereby the
endary “Tourbillon Under Three Bridges” pressure resistance to 10 bar (100 meters), like- last-mentioned color, which characterizes the
appeared in a Laureato model, proving that wise distinguish our test watch, the fourth- dial on our test watch, marks an unexpectedly
Girard-Perregaux’s unconventional mechanism generation Laureato. It updates its ancestors’ long-lasting trend.
is sturdy enough for use in a sports watch. genetic code with a somewhat narrower bezel The dial is decorated with a waffle-like clous
The third-generation Laureato, the EVO3, and a case with a slightly more angular middle de Paris pattern composed of numerous tiny
is available as a chronograph and with compli- piece and finely polished steps, thus assuring pyramids, all neatly arranged in regular rank
cations. Its lines have become gentler when com- that this Laureato 4.0 preserves its identity. and file order. At first glance, this admittedly
pared to their counterparts on the EVO2. The leads one to suspect that the Laureato has come
interplay between satin-finished and polished Despite the undeniably large diameter (42 mm) a bit closer to the Royal Oak. But appearances
elements can be seen in both the stainless-steel of its stainless-steel body, the Laureato Auto- are deceiving: this clous de Paris pattern is sig-
bracelet and the butterfly clasp with push- matic is a mere 11 mm tall. This thinness assures nificantly different from the petite tapisserie
button closure. For the first time, the octagonal that this sporty timepiece can be worn under embellishment on Audemars Piguet’s dials.
bezel is satin finished on top, while its sides and the close-fitting cuff of a dress shirt when it Raised, luminous, hour appliqués and large,
its underlying ring have a high-gloss finish. accompanies its wearer on an evening at the baton-shaped, glow-in-the-dark hands enhance

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 CLOSE-UP − Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Automatic

SPECS
—
GIRARD- Girard-Perregaux
PERREGAUX
Laureato 42mm Automatic

—
Manufacturer:
Girard-Perregaux SA, Place
This manufacture, which now belongs to the Kering Girardet 1, 2301 La Chaux-de-
Group, traces its history all the way back to 1791. Fonds, Switzerland
The brand’s illustrious story includes legendary
watches and more than 80 patents. Reference number:
81010-11-431-11A
Functions:
Hours, minutes, central seconds,
the Laureato’s charm as a sports watch and date
simultaneously guarantee good legibility under Movement:
all lighting conditions. The only blemish: the GP01800-0008, automatic,
easy-to-read date display at 3 o’clock is black, a 28,800 vph, 28 jewels, Glucydur
hue that doesn’t entirely harmonize with the balance, Nivarox hairspring, eccentric
blue dial. The date can be quickly reset by pulling screw for fine adjustment, Incabloc
out the well-screwed-down crown, which is easy shock absorption, 54-hour power
reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height
to grasp, to its middle position and giving it a
= 3.97 mm
little twist. The crown’s styling emphasizes the
Laureato’s character as a sports watch. But Case:
beware: even if you have observed the six-hour Stainless steel, anti-reflective
curfew before and after you rapidly reset the sapphire crystal above dial, sapphire
crystal in back, water resistant
date, the date display sometimes jumps to show
to 100 m
a wrong number when you pull the crown into
its hand-setting position. Moreover, a bit of Bracelet and clasp:
unwanted play is also noticeable in the seconds Stainless steel, stainless-steel
hand when the crown is in this extracted posi- butterfly clasp with lateral
push-pieces
tion for precise adjustment of the hands. For-
tunately, this little wiggle doesn’t interfere with Large luminous numerals Rate results:
to-the-second time setting because the seconds and hands underscore Deviation in seconds per 24 hours
hand races back to its 0 position as soon as the the sporty character of (Fully wound / after 24 hours)
the Laureato watch.
crown is released, but the phenomenon is Dial up __________________________________ +4.9 / +4.1
nonetheless unusual. Dial down ____________________________ +2.4 / +2.3
The time display is powered by new auto- Crown up ____________________________ +1.0 / +2.6
matic manufacture Caliber GP01800-0008, Crown down______________________ +5.0 / +6.4
which has only been on the market since 2017 brand’s philosophy and winds the mainspring in Crown left __________________________ +4.7 / +7.2
Greatest deviation ______________ 4.0 / 4.9
and is celebrating its debut inside the 42-mm only one direction of rotation (counterclockwise).
Average deviation __________ +3.6 / +4.5
models of the Laureato collection. The inten- The large barrel looks very handsome under a
Average amplitude:
tion here is obvious: Caliber GP01800-0008 is bridge of its own. A Triovis system is no longer Flat positions ________________ 307° / 286°
30 mm in diameter, more than 6 mm larger than used to finely adjust the balance: it has been Hanging positions ______ 278° / 256°
the basic movement in the GP3000 series, so it replaced by an index system with an eccentric
Dimensions:
fits well inside these new and larger watch mod- screw. This caliber was designed, fabricated and Diameter = 42.05 mm, height =
els. The GP3000 was installed inside 36-mm assembled in its traditional and meticulously 11.01 mm, weight = 146 g
cases when it premiered in the 1990s. And for a crafted versions entirely on the brand’s prem-
Variations:
short time, it seemed like it almost lost itself in ises, so Girard-Perregaux can justifiably describe
With silver or slate gray dial;
the Sea Hawk’s spacious 44-mm case. it as the “spearhead of the manufacture.”
with steel case and alligator strap
It is indeed a lovely sight to peer through As such, it delivers well-balanced and reli- ($10,800); with titanium and
the window of sapphire crystal, which six able performance inside the Laureato. When rose-gold case and alligator strap
screws securely hold on the back of the 42-mm fully wound, it gained 3.6 seconds per day on ($16,000); with titanium and
Laureato, and see how completely Caliber our timing machine and 4.7 seconds per day on rose-gold case and bracelet
GP01800-0008 fills the interior of the case. The the wrist. All in all, these are commendable sta- ($23,700)
movement’s styling is essentially in accord with tistics for a “spearhead,” assuming that one Price:

$11,600
Girard-Perregaux’s characteristic attributes, but important number is generously overlooked:
its design differs in a few noteworthy details. namely, the high price that Girard-Perregaux
Although the rotor is ball borne, it adheres to the asks for this three-handed watch. —

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 SPOTLIGHT − WatchTime Reader Trips

Travelling
Back in Time
Last year, WatchTime took two international methods of the complex procedures utilized by
groups of watch collectors to the epicenters of all of the manufacturers in producing the wide
Swiss and German watchmaking. Both tours variety of products we witnessed.” But there was,
turned out to be truly unforgettable watchmak- of course, a lot more to be discovered. Guest
ing experiences. Richard V. Lyschik commented, “It was one of
The first trip took a dozen collectors back those ‘Bucket List’ accomplishments for us. I took
to the heart of Swiss watchmaking, with visits to over 300 photos, saw gorgeous mountains, met
Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Blancpain, gracious Swiss people, enjoyed the Spring
Hublot, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin, TAG weather, asked for ‘seconds’ more than I usu-
Heuer and Girard-Perregaux. These were fol- ally do with the generous hosts, enjoyed won-
lowed by a dinner with Romain Gauthier, a stop derful glasses of wine, and most of all, made many
at MB&F’s M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva and a brief new friends from around the world in our
visit to the International Watch and Clock exclusive group.”
Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds to complete the The friendship among these watch collec-
deep dive into watchmaking history, the steps tors was a strong reason why almost everyone
involved in the creation of exceptional mechan- from the 2017 Switzerland trip immediately
ical watches and some of the secrets behind the signed up for the second reader tour, this time
success of these brands. Tour participant Burt to the capital of German watchmaking in
Strauss said, “I was blown away by the various Glashütte. Among the visited manufacturing

From raw parts to ultra-complicated

masterpieces, a visit at Blancpain also
offers a close encounter with minute
repeaters, carrousels and tourbillons in
Le Brassus.

Visiting Patek Philippe in Geneva

traditionally means learning every-
thing about restoration and complica-
tions, next to getting a guided tour of
the whole manufacture.

Romain Gauthier, known for his

exceptional timepieces, also offered
unique insights into independent
watchmaking and his career during his
dinner with the group.

Discovering the Métiers d'Art depart-

ment at Vacheron Constantin's state-
of-the-art Headquarters and Manu-
facturing Center in Geneva also allows
a closer look at the guilloché process.

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 SPOTLIGHT − WatchTime Reader Trips

Ulysse Nardin's enamel

dial manufacture Donzé
Cadrans in Le Locle is
only one of the few
remaining suppliers of
four different types of
grand feu dials.

A visit at Ulysse Nardin

traditionally starts with
a deep-dive into the
brand's marine history,
the component production
with silicon, and ends in
the grand complication
workshop.
An unforgettable experience at Jaeger-LeCoultre: assembling one of the brand's
in-house movements during the watchmaking masterclass in Le Sentier.

Hublot's new production facilities in Nyon offer a masterclass in the art of The MB&F M.A.D. Gallery opened in 2011 in Geneva on Rue Verdaine. It is
fusion, and, of course, a hands-on experience with the steps required to produce home to the complete range of MB&F Horological Machines and Legacy
some of the most complicated watch cases in the industry. Machines, as well as carefully curated pieces from around the world.

Hands-on with the

Girard- Perregaux
collection with Stefano
Macaluso, shortly before
the announcement that TAG Heuer's extensive
he would say goodbye to test lab allows a new
the brand after a look at how watches are
31-year career. designed and tested.

Production of the
iconic gold brigdes at
the Girard-Perregaux Assembly of the
manufacture in La Monaco Gulf at
Chaux-de-Fonds. TAG Heuer

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A model of Ludwig Teubner's "5-minute clock" (1896), made for the Semper Dressed for the occasion: A visit to the Semper opera
Opera House (and the inspiration for the Zeitwerk collection from A. Lange & with one of the reader’s own Datograph chronograph
Söhne) and on display in the Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon in Dresden from A. Lange & Söhne

Introduction to A. Lange & Söhne's current collection with A fantastic way to get a better understanding of how much craftsmanship
Arnd Einhorn, Head of PR goes into every detail of a watch is learning to engrave a balance cock.

facilities in Saxony were A. Lange & Söhne, Lang centrated, geographically, but now that I have
& Heyne, Mühle Glashütte, Tutima, Moritz been there it’s one company alongside the next
Grossmann, Nomos, Wempe and Glashütte
Original. And, of course, visits to the German How many all the way up Main Street. From Moritz Gross-
mann’s lounge, basically you can see them all.

people can say

Watch Museum in Glashütte and the Mathe- I now understand how the 2002 flood/dam bust
matisch-Physikalische Salon in Dresden, absolutely inundated the town."
accommodating “one of the most significant The recent growth has also led to an
collections of around 3,000 clocks and fine
mechanical instruments.” they shook the increased need to invest in training young work-
ers. Today, the watchmaking industry in

hand of the
The German renaissance in fine watch- Glashütte employs around 2,000 people (which
making that has taken place in Glashütte since is more than during Communist times), and is
the fall of Communism in 1989 has led to a more home to the Alfred Helwig School of Watch-
geographically condensed industry. The Saxon
valley is lined with nearly a dozen high-end designer of making. The school is a member of the Swatch
Group's international network of Nicolas G.

their watch?
mechanical watch brands, almost all within Hayek Watchmaking Schools and offers its stu-
walking distance, and each with its own come- dents, through a partnership with Switzerland's
back story (make sure you don’t miss Mark WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Train-
Bernardo’s portrait of Mühle Glashütte in this ing and Educational Program), the opportun-
issue). Guest Warren Dodgson commented, “I ity to complement their German diploma with
can say that I’m better informed, putting ‘faces a Swiss certification. This visit was also one of
to names.’ I knew that the industry was con- two occasions where the tour participants could

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 SPOTLIGHT − WatchTime Reader Trips

Family-owned Mühle
Glashütte also produced
speedometers, rev
counters and dashboard
clocks for early automo-
biles and motorcycles.

Most likely the first cake

with a water resistance
of 100 ATM

A small manufacture with a lot of in-house capabilities: Lang & Heyne in

Dresden showcases the different steps in bluing hands.

Grossmann hands are

annealed to brown violet
– not traditional blue.

The Nomos Chronometry building is housed in Glashütte's former train station. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, Tutima moved its production back
Nomos is the largest producer of mechanical watches in Germany. to Glashütte.

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Moritz Grossmann
founder Christine
Hutter offered a look
back on the brand's
last 10 years of watch
manufacturing.

The Moritz Grossmann

manufactory overlooks
Glashütte, the birth-
place of the German
watchmaking industry.
The city has a popula-
tion of about 7,000.

In 2005, Wempe acquired the Glashütte Observatory and started to use

it as the first German testing center for chronometers in addition to
housing its own assembly workshops.

Bluing screws at
Glashütte Original

Horological homecoming: Four Glashütte Original

watches returning to the place they were built

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 SPOTLIGHT − WatchTime Reader Trips

A steel pocketwatch from A. Lange & Söhne from 1936, on display at the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB) was an East German conglomerate formed in
German Watch Museum Glashütte 1951 from the watch companies based in Glashütte and the predecessor of
Glashütte Original. A comprehensive overview of some of the watches built by
the GUB can be found at the German Watch Museum Glashütte, located right
in the center of the town.

Trading places: The next generation of Glashütte Original watchmakers Dresden, capital of the eastern German state of Saxony, is
are usually trained in the company's own Alfred Helwig School of situated in a valley on the River Elbe, and about 45 minutes
Watchmaking. This time, they became the teacher. away from Glashütte.

work on real watches, the other one being pro- time with readers, collectors and watchmakers.
vided by A. Lange & Söhne. Guest Atul Jethva Fortunately, the brands we selected recognize
said, “To meet your balance cock engraver was the importance of connecting directly with con-
a special highlight, too. But the workshop there sumers, and I think I ended up being the only
really helped one appreciate the technical skill one on the trip who didn’t immediately buy
and grace required to work there.” another watch in one of Dresden’s many bou-
WatchTime’s Editor-in-Chief Roger Rueg- tiques. Needless to say, I, too, cannot wait for
ger served as the group’s tour guide in both the next trips.” A sentiment that seems to be
instances. He said, “These reader trips are where shared by many of the participants like Ted
everything comes together: WatchTime’s Friedland: "It is a tremendous value, and such
unparalleled audience visiting some of the great- a unique experience that one could not repli-
est brands in watchmaking – it doesn’t get bet- cate on their own. It is a great group of people
ter than that for a journalist. On top of that, it’s to travel with and I cannot wait for the next trip."
truly a unique experience for everyone involved, If you are interested in learning more
and I couldn’t be more grateful for the hospi- about upcoming trips, please email office@
tality and transparency shown by the manu- watchtime.com and sign up for WatchTime’s
factures, and the privilege to spend so much newsletter at watchtime.com/newsletter —

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 FACETIME

Celebrating Jian Wu’s birthday at a Japanese steak house in Hong Kong, Jian Wu wears an
Audemars Piguet Millenary Starlit Sky and her husband, Billy Wu, a Vacheron Constantin
Patrimony-Traditionnelle Chronograph Two-Tone Boutique Limited Edition.

In front of L’horloge fleurie (The flower clock) in Geneva,

Stephen Carter (left) wears his Tudor Black Bay Heritage The Vender family sports their Rolex GMTs during Canadian Thanksgiving in Kingston, Ontario.
with red bezel and Christian Clark, his Audemars Piguet From left, Reid Vender wears his Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN Black; Ron, his Rolex GMT-
Royal Oak 15300ST with black dial. Master II 116710BLNR “Batman”; and Ross, his Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 BLRO “Pepsi” on
Jubilee bracelet.

Kevin Beynen wears his Rolex Yacht-Master 40 16622,

and his wife, Lisa, her vintage Omega Genève MD 511.454
while celebrating his recent promotion at an RCMP
Regimental Ball in Red Deer, Alberta.

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 FACETIME

FACETIME
GALLERIES
To submit a photo, please send
your image to
[email protected] with a
short description identifying
each person in the photo and
the watch each one is wearing.
Please give the first and last
name of the wearer and the
brand and model of the watch. If
the photo was taken at an event,
please specify when and where it
was held. Only clear images in
which the faces of both watch
and wearer are visible will be
considered for publication.
Images must be in JPEG for-
mat, no smaller than 1 MB. Only
the best-quality and most inter-
esting photos will be considered.

At the Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, N.Y., Ken Enjoying Memorial Day weekend in Mt. Vernon,
Masten wears a Ball Watch Pioneer. Ohio, Mike DeLauder wears a Rolex Submariner in
steel and his son Andy, a Rolex GMT-Master II with
“Coke” dial.

Jose Pimentel wears his Rolex Submariner 16610 at

At Le Moo restaurant in Louisville, Ky., Mark and Sandra Brodsky celebrate their 30th wedding the Rodeo Drive Concours d'Elegance car show in
anniversary with his and hers Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Co-Axial Chronometers. Beverly Hills.

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 THE LAST WORD

ited masterpiece in New York: the Heritage Tour-

billon DoublePeripheral Limited Edition. We
extended our distribution network in the U.S.

Customers through the partnership with Tourneau and

topped things off with becoming an official part-

today are more

ner of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. So
it’s not one single moment in particular that
stands out rather than the overall journey that

demanding and the CFB family has successfully mastered in the

past years, as well as the sum of all moments on
the way to get where we stand as a brand today.
knowledgeable In the last eight years, you almost quintupled the

than ever and brand’s production volume. What’s your next

goal?
My mission and objective for the future is to stay
are challenging on our successful path and to go with the signs
of the times, backed by our strong roots and tra-

the industry to dition. We are proud and happy to look back on

a very successful year and will continue doing
what customers around the world appreciate us
deliver products for: reliable, beautiful watches at the highest qual-
ity and at a very fair price point.

developed in a What do you consider the biggest challenge(s)

for the watch industry in 2019?
holistic way. The industry needs to keep up with the fast-pace
changes and developments – most prominently
Sascha Moeri, CEO, Carl F. Bucherer
seen in distribution. The digital world is key,
especially for the upcoming generation of watch
enthusiasts, which is why e-commerce will
become more and more important. Moreover,
— Editor-in-Chief Roger Ruegger took the In 2018, Bucherer was able to substantially customers today are more demanding and
opportunity to talk with Sascha Moeri, CEO, Carl expand its retail network in the U.S., thanks to knowledgeable than ever and are challenging
F. Bucherer, about the brand’s latest product the acquisition of Tourneau. Does that also mean the industry to deliver products developed in a
launch, his vision and the recent expansion of you increased the annual production as well? holistic way, according to their needs. Watches
the Lucerne-based brand in the U.S. The current market situation is really exciting. today need to be beautiful yet high-functional,
The partnership with Tourneau enables us to high-end, but reasonably priced.
One of the brand’s highlights this year is the offer our watches to a wider audience through-
Manero Tourbillon with peripheral oscillating out the U.S., thus increasing brand awareness, Why did you choose a career in the watch
weight. Why did you choose this complication? and potentially sales. It’s too soon to talk about industry?
We were the first company to successfully increasing the annual production, but: yes, we I was fortunate to grow up in the cradle of watch-
design and produce a peripheral rotor-based are expecting to grow further, while keeping our making at the foot of the Swiss Jura. I’ve always
movement in series: the CFB A1000. This caliber status as an exclusive manufacture. been surrounded and fascinated by watches, so
set new standards within the industry and a career in the industry was almost inevitable.
established our role as pioneers in the field of What was your most exciting moment since you
the peripheral technology, which became a sig- started with the brand in 2010? What makes a watch collectible to you?
nature-competence for the brand. With our It’s hard to narrow it down after eight exciting, A watch should be stable in value, have a story
Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral and the eventful and successful years with many to tell, stand out by unique aesthetics and
T3000 movement that beats inside of it, we great and emotional moments – big and small – refined complications – a timepiece that offers
decided to take that concept even further, happening every day. Take alone 2018, our the perfect combination of technical ingenuity
emphasizing on our pioneering spirit. This mas- anniversary year, and all the milestones we and innovation, outstanding design and tradi-
terpiece presents the climax of our innovative achieved and celebrated: we seamlessly linked tion. For me it is the watch I am currently wear-
developmental work. Not only the bidirectional the digital and analog worlds in Asia by launch- ing: the Manero Tourbillon DoublePeripheral.
automatic winding system is mounted periph- ing our first exclusive Carl F. Bucherer online Incredibly complicated inside, timelessly ele-
erally; the tourbillon is as well. The cage of the boutique on JD.com, and opening a new mono- gant on the outside, truly manufacture made and
minute tourbillon is supported peripherally by brand boutique in Hong Kong shortly after. We inspired by the rich heritage of our brand, this
three ball bearings – invisible to the viewer, giv- paid tribute to our rich tradition and crowned watch is an exceptional companion and a col-
ing it a floating appearance. our 130th anniversary with the launch of a lim- lectible timepiece by all means.

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Breguet La Marine
Chronograph 5527

BREGUET BOUTIQUES – NEW YORK 646 692-6469 – BEVERLY HILLS 3 10 8 6 0 - 9 9 11 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 7 3 3 - 74 3 5

T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 - 4 0 3 - 8 1 6 3 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M