Cologne Recipes from
Perfumery of Kindred Spirits
Eau de cologne, a refreshing perfumed toilet water, which was to
become the world's most famous cosmetic item of all time, was
originally used for medicinal purposes. Made from a formula,
which included essences of Rosemary, Orange Flower, Bergamot
and Lemon, drops of cologne were taken on sugar or in wine for
disorders of the digestive system. In addition, due to its antiseptic
properties, it was used as a mouthwash, for cleansing wounds, and
for massage to relieve muscle and joint pains.
Two of the old perfumeries, which are reported to have the original
formula, continue to offer cologne, that is in many ways, related to
the originals:
Roger and Gallet
Farina House
àFarina House also has a museum, and is at the original location
of the first Eau de Cologne factory
Here are a few basic traditional recipes quoted from the offering in
Perfumery and Kindred Arts: A Comprehensive Treatise on
Perfumery by Richard S. Cristiani, 1877.
Cologne water is very volatile, and I have found that, for my own
recipes, I have made them longer lasting by adding some fixing
ingredients, which also tends to correct the odor of the fusel oil
which remains in the wheat or corn spirit vodka, and is rather
unpleasant. *Carbon-filtering the vodka several times with a Britta
filter also help to rectify this problem.
**Note: Fixing your alcohol with Frankincense, especially since
we are using so many citrus ingredients, is a great way of getting
the colognes to last a bit longer.
àFrankincense EO, CO2, or Abs 6-12 ounces for each of these
large batches.
àBenzoin Resin and Vetiver EO or CO2 are also great additions.
2-4 ounces of each.
**Note: Cedrat is also known as “Distilled Lemon”, and is
different than a Lemon Essential Oil
à The essence oils of Lime, Orange, Tangerine and Lemon are a
special distillation of the juice when it is condensed for
concentrate. At that time, oil from the juice comes to the surface is
distilled off. The oil from the juice is more delicate and sweet than
the corresponding oil from the peel. They are a lovely addition to
the perfumer’s palette, and any who enjoy working with citrus oils
will enjoy their distinctive differences from their Expressed Citrus
Oil counterparts.
No. 1. Eau de Cologne. (J. M. Farina)
Bergamot EO 4 fluid ounces.
Lemon EO 1.5 fluid ounces
Neroli EO 3 fluid ounces
Rosemary EO 3 fluid ounces
Cloves 1/2 fluid ounce
Lavender 1/2 fluid ounce
Carbon-Filtered Vodka 2.5 gallons
Rectified Spirit: 1.5 Liters rectified spirit (190 Proof Cane, Grain,
or Grape)
No. 2. Eau de Cologne (French recipe)
Neroli EO 3 ounces
Bergamot EO 3 ounces
Petit-grain EO 1 ounces
Cedrat 3 ounces
Orange (Portugal) EO 5 ounces (Can also use Wild, Dominican)
Rosemary EO 3
Carbon-Filtered Vodka, 60 proof. . 5.5 gallons
Mix well and allow it to rest seven days before filtering.
No. 3. Eau de Cologne (Second quality)
Bergamot EO 4 ounces
Lemon EO 4 ounces
Orange EO 4 ounces
Rosemary EO 3 ounces
Neroli EO 1 ounces
Petit-grain EO 2 ounces
Carbon-Filtered Vodka, 85 proof: 6 gallons.
No. 4. Eau de Cologne. (Cristiani's)
Bergamot EO 8 ounces
Cedrat EO 4 ounces
Rosemary (flowers) EO 4 ounces
Neroli EO 2 ounces
Petit-grain EO 2 ounces
Cloves EO 1 ounce
Extract of orange-flower, No. 1 (from pomade) 1 pint
Tincture of Ambrette Seeds 1/4 pint
Tincture of Orris Roots 1/4 pint
Deodorized alcohol, 95 Proof: 6 gallons
Orange-flower water, triple: 1 gallon
àThis has given general satisfaction, as it approaches in odor
many of the most celebrated German colognes.
Cologne Oil (Cristiani's Cologne Essence)
Rosemary (flowers) EO 8 ounces
Bergamot EO 8 ounces
Orange (Portugal) EO 6 ounces
Lemon EO 4 ounces
Cedrat 4 ounces
Neroli EO 4 ounces
Petit-grain EO 4 ounces
Lavender (best) EO 2 ounces
Cloves EO 2 ounces
Carbon-Filtered Alcohol, 95 proof: 5.5 pints.
“Four ounces of this essence in 7 pints of alcohol and 1 pint of
orange-flower water, will make a good cologne water suited to the
wants of American buyers.”
**Note: Americans, in the perfumery world, have been through
history…a bit made fun of, as we tend to be obsessed with “Clean”
smelling fragrances. Calvin Klein CK One is a perfect example of a
fragrance that gets little mileage outside of the Unites States. It is
also nearly 100% synthetic.
