DA Pom 750-30 (Supersedes DA Pam OPERATION AND a, = MAINTENANCE The Ty] EINER oe ee es we:You want to know her inside out, every ay Renae Meta Ms gn ts EUR Ht yi YOU...” Seen eas No better time to get all-over acquainted Pre Cre ete OPCs Se ame crg OK Lay the parts down om a clean tarp or some- CD eae ee ee COMES A fose any. Know how far you can strip, 2 FIREFIGHT— Sarna ac YOUR MI6AI (oy ae ar eee en Ae teatcee ya RIFLE'S YOUR) but gently. The orange numbers are for tal Eel it apart; the black for putting ic together. DISASSEMBLY Remove magazine. Open bolt, check chamber for ammo Be sure selector lever's on SAFE or 1 5 SEMI-AUTO before losing upper and lower receivers. Press takedown [= pin to right with cartridge or finger. = Shove ‘em in Pull backon | @ inverse cer, 14 charging handle and bolt carrier assembly. DISASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY Take out the 9 bolt and carrier assembly. Put ‘em back the same way, but be 1 3 sure the holt’s unlocked. Remove the charging handle. Hook the handle in, then shove it in. 1 2 Push out the firing pin retaining pin Put bolt in LOCK position. Heed this: Never open or close the split end of the retaining pin. Insert firing pin retaining 11 pin, like so: Put the firing pin forward. The retaining pin goes in back of the large shoulder of the firing pin. Turn the retaining pin 1s you install it. Remove the firing pin, Install firing pin by dropping it in the hole. Toke out bolt cam pin, give ita (90 degree) turn. After you install the cam pin, give it a Ys (90 degree) turn. J Pull the bolt out I of the carier assembly. When you install the bolt, be sure you stag- ger the ring gaps to prevent gas leckage. Use the firing pin to push out the extractor pin. Insert the extractor pin,14 DISASSEMBLY ‘ASSEMBLY Remove extractor and Hf you goofed and 13 spring assembly for Peg, | seterted the spring © deaning only. from the extractor, Remember not to insert the large end of lose, damage or the spring in the separate them. extractor and seat it. Remove the sling. Install the sling. 5 15 Take handguards off by first pulling down on the slip ring. Install by first putting handguards in place, then push up on slip ring. 4 16 17 Use the firing pin to release the receiver pivot pin. Separate the upper and lower receivers. Engage the receiver pivot pin. Join the upper and lower receivers. a Q 3 2 Push the buffer assembly in about Ya inch, press in on the buffer retainer, then release the guide Take out the buffer assembly and spring. Insert the spring and bufler assembly. t R THINK COOL, If your MI6A1 rifle refuses to pop |" off —or quits popping sudden-like— you've got a stoppage that needs im- mediate action, Immediate Action: Instinctively do- ing the right thing to clear your weapon and get it firing again, soonest! Here’s a slow motion of the proce- dure you'd best make second nature: Tap upward on the magazine to make sure it's seated right. 3 ees If a cartridge or case is handle all the way back] ejected, release the charg- ‘and see if a whole car-| ing handle to feed o new tridge or case comes out.| round. ee — WHAT TODO, If she won't fire, now look for the cause . .. a bad round, busted firing pin or hammer spring, or whatever. Table 3-3 in your -1 2 TM covers causes and cures. If no cartridge or cose ejects, first look for around in the chamber, If none's there, once more release the charging handle to feed a round, Next hit the forward assist and again pull the trigger. If she still won't fire, do what your TM says on trouble-shooting. However, if you do find a cartridge or case in the chamber, be sure you remove it before you try to reload and recycle your weapon. Now, remember, get these steps down pat. 5ie ME TELL YOU FROM GUYS WHO KNOW! THE IMPORTANT THIN SOMETHIN'! YOUR MIGAI'S + KEEP IT CLEANS ONE OF THE FINEST MILITARY RIFLES EVER MADE’ LIGHTWEIGHT, EASY To” A HANDLE, Puts oOuT A Dx LOT OF LEAD/ \ TaN >. Keep your ammo and magazine us dean and dry as possible. The only part of the magazine that gets ony lube is the spring — and it gets only a very light touch of LSA. Oil it up Check your extractor ‘and spring often. If they're worn or bur- red, get new ones ASAP. EXTRACTOR > If you really know it, ; : _ EF s1c respect it and treat it right, Ml Lube your rifle, using it'll be ready when you a arable se He ire LSA only. t's the most. mele the magazines. Never load dented or ‘A light cout. put. n tity ammo. Remember, Never : Here’ re some reminders poe ae with a rag after clean- from combat veterans— maleate ideas they'd like to pas y. yp res foals i y pass @ 4 applications often. The along to you to keep ma chamber and boreneed your M16A1 battle-ready. only a light coat after Learn ’em—use ’em— deaning. zz) Ky and you're headed for trouble. ean your rifle every chance you get —3-5 times a day's not too and you won't get caught short! often in some cases. Cleanliness is a must — and it may save your life! eae =e 4 Be sure to clean carbon and dirt from those barrel locking lugs. Pipe cleaners help here and insidd the carrier key Never ‘be bashful ‘cbout asking for deaning materials when you need ‘em. They're available, Get ’em and use’ em! ia iio cB bbl Worry a little more about your rifle . . . like, baby it a bit. F'rinstance, when you're out in the boonies, be careful where you put it down and how you put it down. Never drop it in mud or water or sand. Just keep in mind that you may have to use it before you get a chance to clean it.| i | Irvain evento. wi E | >) Here's something you want to be real careful about. Don't—like Never!—close the upper and lower receivers while the selector lever’s in the AUTO position. Always—like Always!—point the lever to SAFE or SEMI before closing the receivers. Seer eetrerme eet Here's why: If you jom the receivers clased while the selector's in the AUTO position, you'll force the automatic sear down and damege the automatic sear, and the sear pin, and will likely rough up the bottom of the bolt carrier. ‘That's ‘cause when the selector lever’s in the AUTO position, the tang of the automatic sear moves to the rear. You can see how it works by opening the receiver and turning the selector to AUTO and watching the movement of the tang of the automatic sear. So-o-o ... do it right . . . every time. Point the arrow to SAFE. Then the receivers will close without any interference. TIP... Speaking of magazines ... every guy has his own idea of how firm or loose he wants the holding action of the magazine catch to be, Which is A-OK as far as it goes. But remember this: The tighter the mag’s held in the re- ceiver, the more pressure it takes to release it. And this: The farther the shaft of the catch sticks through the catch button, the tighter the magazine’s held in the receiver. AY Here're a few cleaning and operating \ NV \ tips that'll help you get best results sort of put the accent on stuff you'll oy find in the rifle’s bible—TM 9-1005-§ 249-12 (1968) with Ch 1, Others are y) hexes and fixes direct from guys who've been living with this light-weight terror. f Tl ee, Se RaSo, take a cue from experience. Adjust the catch button so’s it’s just about flush with the inner groove or just sticks out a tiny bit. This'll make the catch firm enough to prevent accidentally bumping the button and letting the magazine drop out—yet it won't be so tight that you can’t pull the mag out for a quick re-load. No sweat adjusting the catch’ the PRESS BUTTON ON RIGHT SIDE way you want it, either ... and you're authorized to pull this deal. Just press the button on the right side of the rifle with the nose of a cartridge far enough so’s you can turn the catch on the left side of the weapon. You turn the han- dic clockwise to tighten it and counter- clockwise to loosen it. Best of all, you don’t have to take the weapon apart to do this. TURN CATCH ON | OPPOSITE SIDE Te ‘You won't have any trouble with the new-type swabs listed in your new TM (FSN 1005-912-4248). O’course, some guys've been complaining about old-type, big-size clean- ing swabs jamming in the bore—and breaking the cleaning rod. You won't have this trouble if you cut ‘em all into four equal squares before using "em. Your bayonet will do the job if you don’t happen to haye a knife or La pair of scissors handy. Za = = : 2 ENG SEE NG | Gee eee oT Za YOUR M16'S MAXI-SKIRT .... ALL THE WAY WITH NEGLIGE I TOLD YOU JHAT RIFLE NEGLIGE AIN'T A SUBSTITUTE FOR Now that you've got a plastic coverall bag (FSN 1005-809-2190) to protect your MI6A\1 rifle against dust, sand, mud, water and such, here's how to use it in good health— yours and your weapon's. First, make sure your rifle’s cleaned and lubed before you bag it. This cover’s an aid to PM, but it'll never replace the cleaning and lubing you'll always have to do regularly. In fact, with a rubber band closing—not to mention rips and tears — the bag’s not guaranteed watertight, so-00-0. . . . Second, if you're gonna keep it bagged more than 24 hours, be sure you eye- ball the weapon every day for signs of corrosion from any moisture or condensa- tion that might form in the bag. SS ee ee ae cond unfold the cover end. Then slide the rifle ce r Putting it on—Stick the rifle in the cover, butt stock and slip the rubber band on. Put it on and off pe Z, r LN Poa h en Ge? , ae > Ws use Bs arg Fi ps SC IN A FIREFIGHT Comes a sudden opportunity to bag an enemy, here’re 2 ways you can work it: 2. If absolutely necessary, you can fire right through the bag. You can operate the selector lever and trigger easy with the bag on. But, remember this: Ejected cases will be trapped in the bag and could cause a malfunction after the first round. So get it off as quick as you can. 1. Quick-rip the bag off with one steady yank. The bag'll come apart at the tear- line. = Natch, after “emergency” use, you'll need a new bag. W(See Change 1 to your -12 TM) eSolid Film Lubricant... Dichloromethane... 5-gal can FSN 6810-244-0290) ——. Here’s a round-up of the cleaning- lubing equipmenc you had better use to keep your MI16A1 battle- ” seady. Z About the only things different are the M11E3 cleaning rodanda PLasTIG BOPTLE for holding ° your LSA. The big deal is to use this equipment every chance you @ (ase, Maintenance Equipment FSN 1005-781-9564 © Cleaning Rod — Any one of these: MLIE1 FSN 1005-903-1295 MLIE2 FSN 1005-999-2035 MIIE3 FSN 100-089-3994 FSN 9/50-935-6597 a a PLASTIC Bore Brush FSN 105-903-1296 @ Chamber Brush — FSN 105-999-1435 Pipe Cleaners — FSN 9920-292-9946 Cleaning Swab - FSN 1005 912.4248 Bore Cleaner FSN 6860-224-6656 2 oz. PLASTIC BOTTLE EES NEW CLEANING ROD The M11E3 cleaning rod is a 5-piece affair (counting the swab holder as one piece), as compared S to 4 pieces for the MI1E1 and M11E2 Its over-all length is the same, thou Each section is shorter, that's all, The threads on the E-3 are the same as on the E-1 and E-2, which means it takes the new bore and chamber brushes. Don’t sweat it, though. The new E-3’s probably won’t make the rounds till supplies of the E-I’s and E-2's are gone. BEWARE: DIFFERENT THREADS Could be that some time you might have to use other cleaning tools in a pinch. If you do, here’s what to look for: Different threads. Your M16A1’s own tools—clean- ing rods and brushes alike—all have real fine threads . . . 36 to the inch. But, if you're ever in a spot where you haye to use any other rod, like the M11 (FSN 105-070-7812) or any other bore brush like the one that car- ries FSN 7920-205-2401, or any other chamber brushes, like the M1 (ESN 1005-691-1381) or the M14 (FSN 1005-690-8441), watch this: Their threads are coarser (32 to the inch). They won’t match up with your authorized equipment. Don’t try to screw ’em together. Won’t work! No sweat, though, on swabs. If you ¢ the 30-cal type (FSN 1005-288- 7 3565), just cut these big ones into 4 equal parts... and go ahead with your cleaning.Your MI6AI’s the spunky teenager of the small arms field, sure, but it’s doing a man-size job. So it deserves reasonable treatment—especially in cleaning and lubing its lower receiver area, Of course, this all centers on remoy- ing or not removing the components of the lower receiver to do the servicing | job. It’s a fact. The 5.56-mm rifle doesn't like having its lower receiver taken apart for cleaning —and for good \ reason. The lower receiver’s made of alu- minum to keep the weapon light- weight. But the pins that hold the auto- , matic sear, the hammer assembly, the trigger and the selector lever are all made of steel. So, if you keep taking the lower receiver apart, these pins’ll bye-n-bye make the holes they go through bigger and bigger. First thing you know, the pins fall out and get lost —or the parts they hold won't line up right and your firing’s ‘way off. Truth is, you are not authorized to remove the lower receiver's parts at all. You can do a good cleaning job, if you do it this-a-way—and do it every day. T. Soak your artist brush (FSN 8020-244- 0153) or other similar type brush real good with bore cleaner. Then scrub all the parts like there's no tomorrow to get off all the dirt and carbon you con. 2. Tip the lower receiver sideways to drain the excess bore cleaner from the cavity and then wipe it dry. 3. Wrap a piece of clean cloth or deaning patch around the brush handle and poke it into the hord-to-get-at places. Do the best job you can to get rid of carbon and gook that could keep the parts from work- ing right. 4. When you're all through — and the lower receiver's dry—put a generous coat of LSA (FSN 9150-935-6597) on all of the insides of the lower receiver and on all of the parts. A cleaning job like this will get rid of all the carbon and dirt that might keep your weapon from shooting right. Any stuff that’s left after you do your level best won't make no never-mind. Of course, if the lower receiver ever gets so fouled up that the rifle won't fire right, then you let support have a whack at it. Now you can understand why TM 9-1005-249-12 (1968) with Chl, does not authorize disassembly of the lower receiver group for cleaning by riflemen and armorers. Parts replace- ment and extra-tough cleaning jobs are for direct or general support only. But, please don’t miss out on that lubing job. All components of the lower receiver — as well as the bolt carrier group — must wear a coat of ISA at all times. No “buts” about it. Your rifle can’t perform without it. That’s why “white-glove inspec- tions” are too risky for this baby. ‘There's always the danger that some guy might be tempted to give his weap- on a shower or tub bath before inspec- tion to get rid of dirt and lube. Anybody who bathes his rifle is do- ing it dirt two ways: First, he's robbing it of the lube protection it needs. Sec- ond, he’s liable to let water seep into the lower receiver extension. This could cause corrosion of the extension and rusting of the action spring—or it might result in a short recoil of the bolt cartier group, thereby preventing the bolt assembly from retracting far enough to strip a cartridge from the magazine. When you consider that all this has a direct bearing on how well your MI6A1's going to fire and protect your hide in a showdown, these angles make real good sense, don’t they?Combat types can’t emphasize this enough: Clean the gas port in the bolt a, MORE POINTERS carrier group every day —and take it real easy with the lube. Dirt and powder- fouling—plus an overdose of lube oil—will give you a sluggish rifle. . . . To PONDER Numbah 10 Thou’ in a combat situation! | So, when you get your baby stripped for cleaning, like it says in para | 3-9 in TM 9-1005-249-12 (1968) with Ch 1, take an extra 5 seconds to get at the port hole down there in the front end of the gas tube. Like so: " | ‘Make sure you get the metal end of the HERE ARE. Si \ brush in all the way — right into the bot- NUMBAH ONE PM ; tom of the hole where the gas tube is SUGGESTIONS TO | seated in the carrier key — and then tun KEEP YOU GO-GO! Fj it to loosen the crud. That last Me-in in $ there is the most neglected part on most MI6AL rifles. ‘Then use a pipe deaner or the like to poke the gook out of the pert. Don't use wire, though, or you might scratch the tube and set up worse trouble later on. 6 3. Use another pipe leaner — or air-dry it by waving it around —to dry the tube as well ‘as you can. HOW TO FIGHT CARBON © FREEZE... Oo ( BOLT... FSN 920-292-9946 PIPE CLEANER NOW IN YOUR TM ©) — 4. Now doublecheck your job. Remove the bolt. Then stick the carrier body into the receiver slide- way and push the carrier back and forth slowly to check that the carrier key and gas tube line up OK. The carrier should move freely... ond should go all the way without friction. If it won't go all the way without a struggle, you've got some more cleaning to do. But, if it binds, turn the weapon in for repair. x Another thing: When you're crawl- ing or walking through the brush, make a mental note to make sure you don’t get the flash suppressor caught in a bush. It catches easy, y’know. = he front end of the gas tube is self-cleaning, thanks to the hot gases cand high pressure from the barrel. But, if you don't keep the other end dean — the gas tube ‘area where it mates with the carrier key inside the receiver — brother! You've got to clean this area with elbow grease to prevent stoppuges. Hear! Now, when you come to lube-preserving, stick to the dope in the lube guide pages22-24 of this pamphlet. All the way . . . Educate your sixth sense to flip the selector lever all the way across to get from Safe to Automatic. In an ambush situation, you just might flip it only halfway—to Semiautomatic— when you'll need all the fire you can get. ( You might practice flipping it all the way till this becomes second nature. All in all, this M16A1’s a real sweet number. It'll stay that way as long as you treat it like one.