UNIT III - CHEMISTRY IN EVERYDAY LIFE

CHAPTER I - CHEMICALS IN COSMETICS

INTRODUCTION
Make up /Cosmetic has been around for several centuries already. Among the more notable people to wear
these beauty enhancers are the Egyptians. In fact the first known historical record of using cosmetics to enhance beauty
or parts of the face and body was in Egypt during the First Dynasty around the years 3100 - 2907 BC. Make up eventually
evolved from the Egyptian kohl to the French rouge, which was used to make the lips red and the cheeks blush.
Today, cosmetics plays a vital role for both men and women everywhere. They are used especially by women of
practically all walks of life. Most of these preparations are harmless, organic or hypoallergenic , provided their
ingredients are whole-some and pure, that all poisonous materials are excluded, that care is exercised in their
manufacture, and that the proper attention is given the skin, once their use is begun. That cosmetics are regarded as a
means of improving the skin and beautifying the complexion is well established. That they are here to stay may be
deduced from the enormous amount of newspaper and magazine advertisement of face powders, rouges and creams,
from the tremendous increase in the number of beauty parlors, and from the ever-increasing millions spent by the
public for cosmetics.

What is Cosmetics?
COSMETICS - (colloquially known as makeup or make-up) are care substances used to enhance the appearance
or odor of the human body.
- A preparation, such as powder or a skin cream, designed to beautify the body by direct application
- (FDA) defines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions
COSMETICS – derives from the Greek kosmetikē tekhnē, meaning "technique of dress and ornament",
-from kosmētikos, "skilled in ordering or arranging"
- from kosmos, meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament".

TIMELINE ON THE HISTORY OF COSMETICS

PERIOD IMPORTANT EVENTS

10,000 BCE Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Scented oils and creams to clean and
soften their skin ,mask body odor and also used for protection against the hot sun and dry winds
4000 BCE Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite (bright
green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition.
3000 BCE Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg. Bright
colors for social class only. Grecian women paint their faces with white lead, apply crushed
mulberries as rouge and use eyebrows made of oxen hair.
1500 BCE Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces white. Eyebrows are
shaved off, teeth painted gold or black and henna dyes applied to stain hair and faces. A popular
Traditional Chinese Medicines is the fungus Tremella fuciformis; used as a beauty product by
women. The fungus reportedly increases moisture retention in the skin and prevents senile
degradation of micro-blood vessels in the skin, reducing wrinkles and smoothing fine lines
1000 BCE Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick out of
ochre clays laced with red iron
Early Cosmetics In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and blood on their
100 AD fingernails for polish.
300-400 AD Henna is used in India as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which complex designs are
painted on to the hands and feet, especially before a Hindu wedding.
1200 AD As a result of the Crusades, perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East.
1300 AD In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear egg whites over their
faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Yet, some thought cosmetics blocked proper
circulation and therefore posed a health threat.
1400 - 1500 In Europe, only the aristocracy use cosmetics, with Italy and France emerging as the main centers of
AD cosmetics manufacturing. Arsenic is sometimes used in face powder instead of lead.
1500-1600 AD European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products, including white
lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known user of white lead, with which she
created a look known as "the Mask of Youth." Blonde hair rises in popularity as it is considered
angelic.
1800 AD Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the previously used deadly mixtures of
lead and copper. Queen Victoria publicly declares makeup improper. It is viewed as vulgar and
acceptable only for use by actors.
 1900 A: In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged women to appear as young as possible
while acting as hostesses. Beauty salons increase in popularity, though patronage of such salons is
not necessarily accepted. Because many women are loathe to admit that they needed assistance to
look young, they often entered salons through the back door.
1909 Of the major cosmetics firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller as the
French Harmless Hair Colouring Company .
1910s L'Oréal market was developed in the USA during the by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein,
and Max Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War IIand Estée Lauder just
after.
1911 Nivea company was developed
21st centruy Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers,who have more
recently been joined online by established outlets. An increasing number of males are gradually
using cosmetics usually associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial
features. Concealer is commonly used by self-conscious

Uses of Make Up/Cosmetics

1. To enhance and beautify
2. To cover -up scars and deformities that can be debilitating - helps build up the self esteem and confidence of an
individual.
3. It is needed in certain jobs and professions mostly centered in the show business industry.
4. It is used as sun protection.

Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and
facial makeup, towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants,
hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of products.

GENERAL CATEGORY OF COSMETICS

- A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to coloring products intended to alter the user’s
appearance.
1. decorative cosmetics.
2. care cosmetics

I. DECORATIVE COSMETICS
A. Most cosmetics are distinguished by the area of the body intended for application.
1. Face Primer- is a cosmetic base coat that is put on beneath foundation. Applied much like foundation; It extends
makeup wear and helps to create a flawless finish.
- comes in various formulas to suit individual skin conditions and applied before foundation.
Uses: a. To reduce the appearance of pore size
b.To prolong the wear of makeup,
c. It allows for a smoother application of makeup
2. Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner, lip primer, and lip boosters.
Lipsticks - are intended to add color and texture to the lips
- come in a wide range of colors, as well as finishes such as matte, satin and lustre.
Lip glosses – are intended to add shine to the lips, and may also add a tint of color, scent or flavor.
Lip balms/ chapsticks - are most often used to moisturize and protect the lips. It is applied to the lips of the mouth to
relieve chapped or dry lips, cold sores, or just to add a little shine to one's lips for a simple, natural makeup look They
often contain SPF protection.
Lip liner - intended to fill uneven areas on the outer edges of the lips after applying lipstick
3. Concealer - used to cover any imperfections of the skin.
- is a colour corrector used to mask pimples, dark circles, red areas, and other small blemishes visible on the skin
- used for any extra coverage needed to cover blemishes, under eye circles, and other imperfections.
- is often thicker and more solid than foundation, and provides longer lasting, more detailed coverage.
- can also be used for contouring your face like your nose, cheekbones, and jaw line.
4. Foundation - is used to smooth out the face and cover spots or uneven skin coloration.
- is a flesh-toned cosmetic applied to the face to create an even, uniform colour to the complexion, and,
sometimes, to change the natural skintone
- usually a liquid, cream, or powder, as well as most recently a light and fluffy mousse.
- provides coverage from sheer to full depending on preference.
* Foundation primer can be applied before or after foundation to obtain a smoother finish. Some primers come in
powder or liquid form to be applied before foundation as a base, while other primers come as a spray to be applied after
the foundation to help the make-up last longer.
5. Face powder - is used to set the foundation, giving it a matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws or blemishes.
 Tinted face powders may also be worn alone as a light foundation.
6. Rouge, blush or blusher - is cheek coloring used to bring out the color in the cheeks and make the cheekbones
appear more defined.
- used to redden the cheeks or add a healthy glow to them. Generally blush comes in shades like
peaches, pinks, and reds. Rouge comes in powder, cream, and liquid forms.
7. Contour powder/creams - are used to define the face.
- can be used to give the illusion of a slimmer face or to modify a person’s face shape in
other desired ways.
Usually a few shades darker than one's own skin tone and matte in finish, contour products create the illusion of depth.
A darker toned foundation/concealer can be used instead of contour products for a more natural look.
8. Highlight – is used to draw attention to the high points of the face as well as to add glow to the face
- comes in liquid, cream, and powder forms.
- often contains a substance to provide shimmer
9. Bronzer - is used to give skin a bit of color by adding a golden or bronze glow,
- intended to give the skin a temporary bronzed colour resembling a suntan.
- also used for contouring
- comes in either matte, semi matte/satin, or shimmer finishes.
10. Mascara - is used to darken, lengthen, thicken, or draw attention to the eyelashes.
- is available in natural colors such as brown and black, but also comes in bolder colors such as blue, pink,
or purple. (liquid, cake, and cream)
*Some mascaras also include glitter flecks. There are many different formulas, including waterproof versions for those
prone to allergies or sudden tears. It is often used after an eyelash curler and mascara primer. Many mascaras now have
certain components intended to help lashes appear longer and thicker.
11. Eyeliner -is used to enhance and elongate the size of the eye.
- is applied around the contours of the eye to create a variety of aesthetic illusion
12. Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels and powders - are used to color and define the brows.
Eye brow pencil - is used to darken the eyebrows. Comes in different neutral shades of brown, black, blonde,
etc. to match all different eyebrow colours of its wearers.
13. Nail polish - is used to color the fingernails and toenails.
- can be transparent, colorless
- used to strengthen nails, or used as a top or base coat to protect the nail or polish.
14. Setting Spray - is used to keep applied makeup intact for long periods of time. An alternative to setting spray is
setting powder, which may be either pigmented or translucent.
15. False eyelashes - are frequently used when extravagant and exaggerated eyelashes are desired.
- consists of human hair or synthetic materials attached to a thin cloth-like band, which is applied
with an eyelash glue to the flash line.
* Designs vary from short, natural-looking lashes to extremely long, wispy, rainbow-colored lashes. Rhinestones, gems,
and even feathers and lace occur on some false eyelash designs.
16. Eye shadow - is applied on the eyelids and under the eyebrows. It is commonly used to make the wearer's eyes
stand out or look more attractive. Comes in the largest variety of colours
17. mineral/powder makeup - made of any several finely ground minerals, mixed with a base such as cocoa butter.
-Mainly really good for OILY skin types, usually more healthy and causes less breakouts. Usually
applied with more skill, using either a pad, or certain cosmetic brushes, comes in many different forms..ex. pressed
powder foundation, loose powder foundation, mineral lipstick, mineral eyeshadow, mineral loose/pressed blush,
mineral concealer, etc.

B. Cosmetics can be also described by the physical composition of the product.

1. liquid or cream emulsions;
2. powders, both pressed and loose; dispersions;
3 anhydrous creams or sticks.

II. SKIN CARE COSMETICS/PRODUCTS

Skin care products - used to improve the appearance and health of skin, formulated for different types of skin
and associated characteristics.
FOUR TYPES OF SKIN
1. Normal skin - has a fine, even and smooth surface due to its ideal balance between oil and moisture content and is
therefore neither greasy nor dry. People who have normal skin have small, barely-visible pores.
2. Dry skin - has a parched appearance and tends to flake easily. It is prone to wrinkles and lines due to its inability to
retain moisture, as well as an inadequate production of sebum by sebaceous glands. Dry skin often has
problems in cold weather, which dries it out even further.
3. Oily skin - is slightly to moderately greasy, which is caused by the over secretion of sebum. The excess oil on the
 surface of the skin causes dirt and dust from the environment to adhere to it. Oily skin is usually prone to
blackheads, whiteheads, spots and pimples. It needs to be cleansed thoroughly every day, especially in hot or
humid weather.
4. Combination skin- is a combination of both oily and dry or normal skin, where certain areas of the face are oily and
the others dry. The oily parts are usually found on a central panel, called the T–Zone, consisting of the forehead,
nose and chin. The dry areas usually consist of the cheeks and the areas around the eyes and mouth.
TWO KINDS OF SKIN CONDITIONS
1. Sensitive skin - is a common skin condition which has a tendency to react to many potential triggers with irritation,
redness, stinging or burning, flaking, lumpiness, and rashes. Our skin condition changing into sensitive normally causes
from our immune system disorders or the changes of our health conditions.
Causes of irritation:
1. chemical dyes and fragrances 6. changes in temperature
2. soaps 7. excessive cleansing or exfoliating
3. some flower and spice oils 8. waxing
4. shaving creams 9. threading
5. tanning lotions or spray tans 10. Shaving 11. bleaching.

2. Acne-prone skin
Acne - is a common skin condition that occurs when skin pores become clogged and bacteria settles in, causing the pore
to become infected.
Factors that can contribute to developing acne
1. oily skin 4. skin care products
2. hormones 5. skin care routin.
3. diet

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

1. CLEANSERS - are generally applied to wet skin over the face and sometimes also the neck, avoiding the eyes and lips.
Cleansing the face once per day is typically adequate for normal or dry skins. However, a mild cleanser should
also be used at night if makeup has been worn to remove any excess dirt or oil. Oily skins should be cleansed more
frequently, at least twice per day. Water-based, gentle cleansers are ideal for all skin types, though particularly acne-
prone skin may require medicated cleansers containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to discourage acne.

2. FACIAL MASKS - are treatments applied to the skin for a period of time, then removed.
- are applied to a dry, cleansed face, avoiding the eyes and lips.
Kinds of Face Masks :
a. Clay-based masks - use kaolin clay or fuller's earth to transport essential oils and chemicals to the skin, and are
typically left on until completely dry. As the clay dries, it absorbs excess oil and dirt from the surface of the skin and may
help to clear blocked pores or draw comedones to the surface. Because of its drying actions, clay-based masks should
only be used on oily skins.
b. Peel masks - are typically gel-like in consistency, and contain various acids or exfoliating agents to help exfoliate the
skin, along with other ingredients to hydrate, discourage wrinkles, or treat uneven skin tone. They are also left on to dry,
and then gently peeled off. They should be avoided by people with dry skin, as they also tend to be very drying.
c. Sheet masksn- are a relatively new product that are becoming extremely popular in Asia. Sheet masks consist of a
thin cotton or fiber sheet with holes cut out for the eyes and lips and cut to fit the contours of the face, onto which
serums and skin treatments are brushed in a thin layer; the sheets may also be soaked in the treatment.

3. EXFOLIANT - are products that help slough off dry, dead skin cells to improve the skin's appearance using acids or
other chemicals to loosen old skin cells, or abrasive substances to physically scrub them off.
Advantages of Exfoliation:
a. out patches of rough skin
b. improve circulation to the skin
c. clear blocked pores to discourage acne
d. improve the appearance and healing of scars.
Exfoliants should be applied to wet, cleansed skin, avoiding the eye area; abrasive exfoliants or scrubs should
then be rubbed into the skin in a circular motion for at least 30 seconds
Types of Exfoliant:
a. Chemical exfoliants may include citric acid (from citrus fruits), acetic acid (from vinegar), malic acid (from various
fruits), glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid. They may be liquids or gels, and may or may not contain an abrasive to
remove old skin cells afterwards.
b. Abrasive exfoliants include gels, creams or lotions, as well as physical objects. Loofahs, microfibre cloths, natural
sponges or brushes may be used to exfoliate skin, simply by rubbing them over the face in a circular motion. Gels,
creams or lotions may contain an acid to encourage dead skin cells to loosen, and an abrasive such as beads, sea salt,
sugar, ground nut shells, rice bran or ground apricot kernels to scrub the dead cells off the skin. Salt and sugar scrubs
tend to be the harshest, while scrubs containing beads or rice bran are typically very gentle.

4. TONERS - are used after cleansing the skin to freshen it up and remove any traces of cleanser, mask or makeup, as
well to help restore the skin's natural pH. They are usually applied to a cotton pad and wiped over the skin, but can also
be sprayed onto the skin from a spray bottle.
Toners typically contain alcohol, water, and herbal extracts or other chemicals depending on skin type. Toners
containing alcohol are quite astringent, and usually targeted at oily skins. Dry or normal skin should be treated with
alcohol-free toners. Witch hazel solution is a popular toner for all skin types, but many other products are available.
Many toners also contain salicylic acid and/or benzoyl peroxide. These types of toners are also targeted at oily skin
types, as well as acne-prone skin.

5. MOISTURIZERS - are creams or lotions that hydrate the skin and help it to retain moisture; they may also contain
various essential oils, herbal extracts or chemicals to assist with oil control or reducing irritation. Night creams are
typically more hydrating than day creams, but may be too thick or heavy to wear during the day, hence their name.
Tinted moisturizers contain a small amount of foundation, which can provide light coverage for minor blemishes or to
even out skin tones. They are usually applied with the fingertips or a cotton pad to the entire face, avoiding the lips and
area around the eyes.

6. SUNSCREEN is used to protect the skin from sun damage; sunscreen should be applied at least 20 minutes before
exposure, and should be re-applied every four hours. Sunscreen should be applied to all areas of the skin that will be
exposed to sunlight, and at least a tablespoon (25 ml) should be applied to each limb, the face, chest, and back, to
ensure thorough coverage. Many tinted moisturizers, foundations and primers now contain some form of SPF.
Sunscreens may come in the form of creams, gels or lotions; their SPF number indicates their effectiveness in
protecting the skin from the sun's radiation.

7. TANNING OILS AND LOTIONS - accelerate the tanning process, by promoting the production of melanin. Increasing
blood flow to the skin is a proposed mechanism, which may in turn stimulate production of melanin by melanocytes.

8. SKIN LIGHTENERS SKIN WHITENER, SKIN BLEACHERS - chemical substances used lighten skin tone or provide an even
skin complexion by reducing the melanin concentration in the skin

9. SERUMS – give active ingredients direct access to skin care issues ( wrinkles, brown spots, pimples) without the
interference of moisturizers .
- is a highly concentrated product based on water or oil as any other cream. Serums, or concentrates, contain
approximately ten times more of biologically active substances than creams, therefore quicker and more
effectively coping with cosmetic problems.
Ingredients to look for are:
a. Retinol – stimulates cell turn over
b. Vit. C – UV-damage protection
c. Alpha Hydroxy, Glycolic, Lactic : Cuts through upper layers of skin
d. Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid: penetrates deep into pores to treat and prevent breakouts.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS

a. Humectants are creams with glycerin-based elements and urea

- blocks water from escaping through the skin, while trapping additional moisture from the air.
b. Alpha Hydroxy Acids - removes the outer layer of dead skin cells, acting as an exfoliant, while accompanying
moisturizers -- usually humectants -- replenish the skin's moisture.
Uses: smooths out wrinkles, strengthens skin and cleans pores while balancing the skin's pH level.
Examples: salicylic and glycolic acids.
c. Emollients are lipid-based creams, and replace empty spaces between skin cells with nourishing lipids while softening
and smoothing rough skin.
Examples : lanolin, petroleum or petrolatum and mineral oil. Emollients lotions can be oil- or water-based.
d. Retinoids
Retinol is chemically engineered Vitamin A. When applied to the skin, it speeds the life cycle of skin cells. Retinol
causes skin cells to be generated and die quicker than normal, increasing the turnover of cells and the body's ability to
create healthier, smoother skin.
e. CoQ10 - Coenzyme Q10- is a naturally occurring antioxidant present in the body's organ tissues. As humans grow
older, the concentration of CoQ10 in the body becomes diminished, leading to lower collagen and elastin production --
two elements essential for younger and healthier looking skin.
Face creams with a CoQ10 supplement replace those missing elements and repair damage to the skin cells
caused by the surrounding environment -- smoke, pollution and other factors.
f. Hyaluronic Acid
Like emollients, this class of creams fills in the gaps between skin cells. While hyaluronic acid is traditionally
delivered in injection form, a new crop of creams and lotions are available as topical applications. Hyaluronic acid
restores the fullness of the skin and eliminates wrinkles when applied directly to the area.
g. Phthalates
Phthalates are a group of endocrine-disrupting chemicals that are found in cosmetics like nail polish and in
synthetic fragrance—both perfumes and fragrance ingredients in other cosmetic products. Phthalate exposure has been
linked to early puberty in girls, a risk factor for later-life breast cancer. Some phthalates also act as weak estrogens in cell
culture systems.
h. Triclosan
Triclosan is used in antibacterial soaps, deodorants and toothpastes to limit the growth of bacteria and mold. The
chemical, which is classified as a pesticide, can affect the body’s hormone systems—especially thyroid hormones, which
regulate metabolism—and may disrupt normal breast development. Widespread use of triclosan may also contribute to
bacterial resistance to antimicrobial agents.
i. 1,4-dioxane- is not listed on ingredient labels. It is a petroleum-derived contaminant formed in the manufacture of
shampoos, body wash, children’s bath products and other sudsing cosmetics. The International Agency for Research on
Cancer (IARC) has ranked it as a possible carcinogen, and the National Toxicology Program (NTP) has identified it as a
reasonably anticipated carcinogen.
j. Parabens - are a group of compounds widely used as an antifungal agent, preservative and antimicrobial in creams,
lotions, ointments and other cosmetics, including underarm deodorants. They are absorbed through the skin and have
been identified in biopsy samples from breast tumors.
k. Ethylene Oxide- is used to sterilize surgical instruments. It can also be a contaminant of personal care products such
as shampoos and body washes, because it is used to buffer the harshness of some sudsing agents, and trace amounts
can be left behind. It is classified as a known human carcinogen and is one of 51 chemicals that the National Toxicology
Program (NTP) identifies as mammary carcinogens in animals.
l. 1,3-butadiene
Shaving creams, spray sunscreens and foundations, and anti-fungal treatments that contain the propellant isobutene
may be contaminated with the carcinogen 1,3-butadiene. Exposure occurs mainly through inhalation. This chemical has
been found to increase mammary tumors in rodents.
m. Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)- are a group of chemicals that occur naturally in coal, crude oil and
gasoline. One of the more common PAHs is naphthalene. Some cosmetics and shampoos are made with coal tar and
therefore may contain PAHs. They have been shown to increase risk for breast cancer.
n. Placental Extract- is derived from human or animal placentas and is used in hair conditioners, shampoos and other
grooming aids, particularly those marketed to women of color. The National Toxicology Program (NTP) has identified
progesterone, the major hormonal contaminant in placental extracts, as a reasonably anticipated carcinogen.
o. Lead - may be a contaminant in over 650 cosmetic products, including sunscreens, foundation, nail colors, lipsticks
and whitening toothpaste. Lead is a proven neurotoxin, linked to learning, language and behavioral problems. It has also
been linked to miscarriage, reduced fertility in men and women, and delays in puberty onset in girls.

ACCORDING TO THE ENVIRONMENTAL WORKING GROUP:

10,500- number of unique ingredients found in various personal care products we use every day.
200 – The number of chemicals women add to their skin every day
60 – The percentage of chemicals that the body absorbs directly into the bloodstream.
0 – number of chemicals in personal care products – including shampoo, toothpaste, lotion, deodorant and cosmetics –
are required to be tested for safety before they’re sold in the marketplace.

LIST OF COSMETIC INGREDIENTS TO AVOID

1. Benzoyl Peroxide
Where it hides: Benzoyl Peroxide is found in acne products, so If you’ve ever struggled with acne then you’ve likely
come into contact with this nasty toxin
Health effects: Tumor promoter, mutagen, DNA damage, toxic by inhalation, eye, skin, respiratory irritant, removes
top layer of skin making you more sensitive to sun sunlight, produces free radicals
How to spot it on a label: Benzoyl Peroxide, Benzamycin and Benzamycin Pak
2. DEA, MEA, and TEA
Where they hide: DEA, MEA and TEA are found in soaps, shampoos, hair conditioners and dyes, lotions, shaving creams,
paraffin and waxes, household cleaning products, pharmaceutical ointments, eyeliners, mascara, eye shadows, blush,
make-up bases, foundations, fragrances, sunscreens
Health effects: Skin and eye irritant, accumulate in body organs and brain, connected with liver cancer and dermatitis
How to spot it on a label: Triethanolamine, diethanolamine, DEA, TEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, DEA-cetyl
phosphate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, lauramide DEA, linoleamide MEA, myristamide DEA, oleamide DEA, stearamide
MEA, TEA-lauryl sulfate
3. 1,4-Dioxane
Where it hides: Dioxane can be found in as many as 22 percent of the more than 25,000 cosmetics products
Health effects: Causes cancer, reduced immunity, nervous system disorders, miscarriages, birth deformity, chloracne,
increase in heart disease and diabetes
How to spot it on a label: It is usually omitted from the label, but look for Sodium laureth sulfate, PEG compounds,
chemicals that include the clauses xynol, ceteareth and oleth. Some organic companies as well as conventional
companies, e.g., Johnson & Johnson, have agreed to alter the process that results in this contamination.
4. Synthetic Colors (FD&C Color and Pigments)
Where they hide: Synthetic colors are used in toothpaste, baby wipes, shampoo, body washes, cleansers, deodorant,
and more.
Health effects: Skin sensitivity and irritation, carcinogenic, and in the worst cases causes oxygen depletion and even
death
How to spot it on the label: FD&C Red 40, Yellow 5, etc.
5. Parabens
Where they hide: Parabens are used as a preservative in shampoos, conditioners, lotions, facial and shower
cleansers/scrubs, deodorants
Health effects: Has been known to cause breast cancer, male sterility, female hormone imbalance and early puberty
How to spot it on the label: Ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, other ingredients ending in –
paraben. Unfortunately it is often is not listed as an ingredient.
6. Octinoxate
Where it hides: Octinoxate is used in hair color products and shampoos, sunscreen, lipstick, nail polish, skin creams
Health effects: Endocrine disruption, persistence and bioaccumulation, ecotoxicology, organ system toxicity
How to spot it on a label: Octinoxate, methoxycinnamate (OMC), parsol, parsol MCX, parsol MOX, escalol, 2-ethylhexyl
p-methoxycinnamate
7. Phthalate
Where it hides: Phthalate is used to color cosmetics, fragranced lotions, body washes and hair care products, nail polish
and treatment
Health effects: Damage to liver and kidneys, birth defects, decreased sperm count, and early breast development in
both sexes
How to spot it on a label: Phthalate, DEP, DBP, fragrance
8. Coal Tar
Where it hides: Coal tar is used in shampoos and scalp treatments, soap, hair dye, and lotions
Health effects: Cancer, organ system toxicity, bioaccumulation
How to spot it on a label: Coal tar solution, tar, coal, carbo-cort, coal tar solution, coal tar solution USP, crude coal tar,
estar, impervotar, KC 261, lavatar, picis carbonis, naphtha, high solvent naphtha, naphtha distillate, benzin B70,
petroleum benzin 3,4
9. Retinyl Palmitate (Form of Vitamin A)
Where it hides: Retinyl Palmitate is used in sunscreen and cosmetics
Health effects: Scientists believe it speeds up the development of cancerous tumors and/or lesions.
How to spot it on a label: vitamin A, retinyl palmitate, retinol
10. Oxybenzone
Where it hides: Oxybenzone is a main ingredient in sunscreen,
Health effects: Acts like estrogen in the body, alters sperm production in animals, associated with endometriosis in
women, increases skin absorbtion
How to spot it on a label: Oxybenzone
11. Triclosan
Where it hides: Tricolsan is used in antibacterial soap, dental products, cosmetics, deodorant, first aid products
Health effects: Known to cause cancer, irritation, endocrine disruption, dematitis, bacterial and compounded antibiotic
resistance, allergic reactions
How to spot it on a label: Triclosan
12. Formaldehyde
Where it hides: Formaldeyhyde is used in nail polish, body washes, conditioners, shampoos, cleansers, and eye shadows
Health effects: Joint pain, cancer, skin reactions, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infection, chronic
fatigue, dizziness, and insomnia
How to spot it on a label: Formaldehyde, quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea,
sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol

TALCUM POWDER

What is TALC?
- Talc, a word derived from the Greek word talq meaning pure, is a unique mineral.
- is a mineral composed of hydrated magnesium silicate with the chemical formula H2Mg3(SiO3)4 which
corresponds to 4.8% H2O; 31.7% MgO and 63.5% SiO2or Mg3Si4O10(OH)2.
- is usually green, white, gray, brown or colorless. It is a translucent mineral with a pearly luster. It is the
softest known mineral and is assigned a hardness of 1 on the Mohs Hardness scale.
- In loose form, it is the widely used substance known as talcum powder.
- secondary mineral formed by the hydrothermal actions and regional metamorphism of magnesium rich
rocks like dolomite, pyroxenite, amphibolite, seerpentine, dunite and chlorite.
 - In pulverized form it is whiter in appearance.
- The compact variety of talc is called steatite or soapstone. The word soapstone has been named probably
due to its soapy feel.
- The impure and hard variety is called potstone, which is mainly utilized for making carvings, models,
decorative vases, utensils, pots and the like and hence the name potstone.
- French-chalk is the trade name of pulverized talc of pure white quality which forms the base for many
cosmetics and toilet preparations.
- Talc is valued for its extreme softness, smoothness, high lubricating and hiding power and ability to absorb
oil and grease. It is chemically inert to acids and alkalies.

Talc Powder (Hydrous Magnesium Silicate) Typical Applications:

a) Lubricant, filler, reinforcement, electric and heat insulator, anti stick, anti cake, carrier, thickener, adsorbent,
strengthener, ceramics, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals.
b) Ground talc makes talcum powder. The massive variety (soapstone) is used for sinks, table tops,
etc. Soapstone found a use in Babylonian days when signature cylinder seals were often carved from it.
c) The Egyptians also used it as a base for some of their blue faience figurines, which were then fired to fuse the glaze.
California Indians also used it as sculpture material.

What is talcum powder?

- is made from talc, a mineral made up mainly of the elements magnesium, silicon, and oxygen.
- has the ability to absorb moisture, absorb oils, absorb odor, serve as a lubricant and produce an astringent
effect with human skin. These properties make talcum powder an important ingredient in many baby
powders, foot powders, first aid powders and a variety of cosmetics.
As a powder, it absorbs moisture well and helps cut down on friction, making it useful for keeping skin dry and
helping to prevent rashes. It is widely used in cosmetic products such as baby powder and adult body and facial
powders.Talc powder is a household item, sold globally for use in personal hygiene and cosmetics.

Uses of talc:
1. Finely ground talc is used as the powder base of many cosmetic products. The tiny platelets of a talc powder readily
adhere to the skin but can be washed off easily. Talc's softness allows it to be applied and removed without causing skin
abrasion.
2. Talc also has the ability to absorb oils and perspiration produced by human skin. The ability of talc to absorb
moisture, absorb odor, adhere to the skin, serve as a lubricant and produce an astringent effect in contact with human
skin make it an important ingredient in many antiperspirant

Possible link between talcum powder and cancer have been focused on 2 main areas:
1. People who have long-term exposure to natural talc fibers at work, such as talc miners, are at higher risk from lung
cancer from breathing them in.
2. Women who apply talcum powder regularly in the genital area have an increased risk of ovarian cancer.
Note: Talc that has asbestos is generally accepted as being able to cause cancer if it is inhaled.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OF TALC POWDER

Composition of talcum powder depends on the company manufacturing the product. Different brand have
different composition and qualities.
List of chemical compounds that constitute talcum powder.
1. silicon dioxide
2. magnesium oxide
3. calcium oxide
4. iron (III) oxide
5. aluminum oxide
6. zinc oxide
7. benzoin
8. calciumcarbonate
9. organic extracts
10. essential oils
11. antibacterial and antifungal agents
12. vitamin E oil
13. almond oil
For sensitive skin : arrowroot, cornstarch, oat starch, tapioca starch
For a silky feel skin: kaoli, rose exract, myrrh, aloe vera, slippery elm extracts
To sooth skin and prevent rashes and prickly heat: sandal wood extract, chamomile.
 HARMFUL EFFECTS

Talcum powder can pose a considerable threat if accidentally inhaled in larger excess. Talc is the most
deleterious ingredient and its inhalation by babies might lead to chocking and asphyxiation. It is also a potent
carcinogen and causes inflammation to lungs. It may cause cancer if applied heavily on armpits and in the genital areas.
In women, it can also cause ovarian cancer if there is a slow deposition of talc particles. Silicates which is one of the key
ingredients, is also harmful to the lungs.

DEODORANT AND ANTIPERSPIRANT

DEODORANT
- is a substance applied to the body to prevent body odor caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration in
armpits, feet, and other areas of the body. It may also be used on feet and other areas in the form of body sprays.
ANTIPERSPIRANTS
- subgroup of deodorants, affect odor as well as prevent sweating by affecting sweat glands.
- are typically applied to the underarms
Aerosol antiperspirant products may, however, be applied to non-underarm body areas where excessive
sweating (hyperhidrosis) is a problem. Aerosol antiperspirants may be particularly helpful to control sweat on the feet.
It's recommended that a person try the antiperspirant on a small area of the skin first, to make sure that he/she does
not have a reaction to it. Solid-form antiperspirants may be used along the hairline or bra line if these areas have
problematic sweating

TIME LINE:
PERIOD IMPORTANT EVENTS
9th century Ziryab introduced under-arm deodorants in Al-Andalus
1888 The first commercial deodorant, Mum, was developed and patented by a
U.S. inventor inPhiladelphia, Pennsylvania, whose name has been lost to history
1903 first commercial antiperspirant was Everdry .
1931 and in The small company was bought by Bristol-Myers
the late marketing executive Edward Gelsthorpe decided to develop an applicator based on the newly
1940s, invented ball-point pen
1952 The company began marketing the product under the name Ban Roll-On.[3] The product was briefly
withdrawn from the market in the U.S. It is once again available at retailers in the U.S. under the
brand Ban.[4] In the UK it is sold under the names Mum Solid and Mum Pump Spray. Chattem acquired
Ban deodorant brand in 1998 and subsequently sold it to Kao Corporation in 2000.
January 28, The modern formulation of the antiperspirant was patented by Jules Montenier . formulation was first
1941 found in "Stopette" deodorant spray, which Time Magazine called "the best-selling deodorant of the
early 1950s
Early 1960s, The first aerosol antiperspirant in the marketplace was Gillette's Right Guard, whose brand was later
sold to Henkel in 2006
late 1960s, half of all the antiperspirants sold in the U.S. were aerosols, and continued to grow in all sales to 82%
by the early 1970s
late 1970s two problems arose which greatly changed the popularity of these products
1. in 1977 the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) banned the active ingredient used in aerosols,
aluminium zirconium chemicals, due to safety concerns over long term inhalation
2. the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) limited the use of chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) propellants
used in aerosols due to awareness that these gases can contribute to depleting the ozone layer
present As the popularity of aerosols slowly decreased, stick antiperspirants became more and more
popular. Today, sticks are the most popular type of antiperspirant.

Similarities between antiperspirants and deodorants

1.They personal hygiene products designed to control sweating and body odour.
2. They contain ingredients that control sweat and body odour safely and effectively.
3. They are readily available on the market as sprays (aerosol), sticks, creams or roll-ons.

Differences between an antiperspirant and a deodorant

1. Antiperspirants control sweat and body odour (B.O.) in two ways: firstly by preventing sweat reaching the skin surface
and secondly by eliminating the bacteria that causes body odour via antimicrobial ingredients.
2. Deodorants differ from antiperspirants as they only contain antimicrobial agents to prevent body odour; they do not
control the flow of sweat.
3. Both antiperspirants and deodorants often contain fragrances to help mask the smell of B.O.

How does an antiperspirant work?

 When an antiperspirant is applied to the skin surface, its active ingredients – usually aluminium salts – dissolve
in the sweat or moisture on the skin surface of the armpit. The dissolved substance forms a gel, which creates a small
temporary ‘plug’ near the top of the sweat gland, significantly reducing the amount of sweat that is secreted to the skin
surface. Bathing and washing will remove the antiperspirant gel. Re-application of antiperspirants can be beneficial to
help reduce sweating and keep fresh throughout the day. Antiperspirants reduce underarm sweating but they do not
impact on the natural ability of the body to control its temperature (thermoregulation).

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OF ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS

Antiperspirants and deodorants contain a number of ingredients to minimise sweating and help people feel
fresh, cool and smelling good.

1. Alcohol is an ingredient present in some roll-ons, aerosols and gels. The active ingredients of antiperspirants and
deodorants are often dissolved in alcohol because it dries quickly once applied to the skin and gives an immediate sense
of coolness.

2. Aluminium salts - are the active ingredient in antiperspirants. They work to reduce the flow of sweat from the sweat
gland to the skin surface. Aerosol and roll-on products are likely to contain aluminium chlorohydrate, whereas sticks,
gels and other solid products are most likely to contain an aluminium salt called aluminium zirconium. These salts
provide a safe and effective means of controlling sweat.
Aluminium chloride is a strong aluminium salt used to treat people with mild to moderate hyperhidrosis or
excessive sweating. Skin inflammation may occur as a side effect but this can be managed by following the product
instructions carefully and using an emollient to protect the skin surface.

3.Antimicrobials
The skin is home to natural bacteria that like to feed on sweat but as a result, produce bad smells. In occluded
areas, such as the underarm, there are about 1 million bacteria per square centimetre. By lowering the number of
bacteria on the skin, body odour can also be reduced. Antimicrobials agents kill bacteria and also slow their growth so
that you stay odour-free for longer.
Aluminium salts present in antiperspirants are natural antimicrobial agents so they also kill bacteria on your skin.
High efficacy deodorants without aluminium salts are available and rely on the use of specifically developed
antimicrobial agents, such as triclosan or polyhexamethylene biguanide.
Alcohol is also effective at killing bacteria so deodorant and antiperspirant products that contain alcohol (or
ethanol) are able to reduce body odour by combating the odour-forming bacteria.
NOTE: Soap and water is not completely effective at killing and removing bacteria from the underarm, which is why
many people use an antiperspirant or deodorant as part of their daily routine to control body odour and sweating.

4. Fragrance and skin conditioners

Perfumes and fragrances are used in most deodorants and antiperspirants in order to mask body odour and
provide a feeling of freshness to the user. Virtually all antiperspirant and deodorant products contain some emollient
oils to soothe and soften the skin. In roll-ons and sticks, the oils also provide a 'gliding' feeling as the product is applied.
The moisturisers used in antiperspirants are usually glycerin or vegetable derived oils, such as sunflower oil (helianthus
annus). Most antiperspirants will also contain an oil to stop the product drying out into deposits, thus minimising
product residue on skin and clothes. Silica, a natural mineral, is also used in antiperspirants and deodorants to absorb
this oiliness so that the skin does not feel too greasy after application.

5. Carrier substances
In order for antiperspirants to be effectively applied to the skin, they need to be held in some kind of carrying
structure - whether that be the liquids used in aerosols or the solids used in sticks. Water is used in a range of
antiperspirants as a carrier for other ingredients as it adds fluidity to roll-ons and creams and helps the product spread
onto the skin. In aerosol products the active ingredients are held in a neutral liquid which enables them to be easily
sprayed onto the skin. This liquid (commonly cyclomethicone) is often combined with a slightly denser mineral clay-like
substance (disteardimonium hectorite) which provides structure to the antiperspirant and stops heavier ingredients
sinking to the bottom.
Likewise, solid antiperspirant and deodorant products contain an agent which provides structure and prevents
the ingredients from separating out. This structure can be provided by a combination of ingredients including
hydrogenated castor oil, glycerol fats (triglycerides) and stearyl alcohol.
Some antiperspirant products also include an ingredient called PEG-8 distearate, which makes it easier to wash
the product off in the bath or shower at the end of the day.

6. Parabens - are a type of preservative found in many personal care products. The vast majority of antiperspirants and
deodorants do not contain parabens because antiperspirants and deodorants are generally self-preserving.

7. Propellants
Aerosol antiperspirants and deodorants are designed to work via a thin film which is propelled onto the skin. To
create this film, products contain low, medium and high pressure propellants which produce a strong, but comfortable,
spray to reach the skin. These propellants are commonly butane, isobutane and propane.

Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, a common antiperspirant, can react with sweat to create yellow
stains on clothing. Underarm liners are an alternative to antiperspirants that do not leave stains.

HARMFUL HEALTH EFFECTS

1. Aluminum toxicity
Aluminum is present most often in antiperspirants in form of aluminum chlorohydrate Aluminum chlorohydrate
is not the same as the compound aluminum chloride, which has been established as a neurotoxin. At high doses,
aluminum itself adversely affects the blood–brain barrier, is capable of causing DNA damage, and has adverse
epigenetic effects.
2. Breast cancer
One constituent of deodorant products which has given cause concern are parabens, a chemical additive.
3. Renal dysfunction
The FDA warns "that people with renal dysfunction may not be aware that the daily use of antiperspirant drug
products containing aluminum may put them at a higher risk because of exposure to aluminum in the product.
4. Aerosol burns and frostbite
If aerosol deodorant is held close to the skin for long enough, it can cause an aerosol burn—a form
of frostbite. In controlled tests, spray deodorants have been shown to cause temperature drops of over 60 °C in a short
period of time.