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Basic Weaves

Plain, twill, and satin weaves are basic weaves that can be created on a simple loom without attachments. Plain weave is the simplest with warp and weft yarns alternating. Twill weaves form diagonal lines and have more threads than plain weave. Satin weave is distinguished by its luster, with 4+ warp yarns floating over each weft yarn. Rib, warp, and weft variations extend the plain weave. Twills are classified as warp or weft faced and balanced or unbalanced. Satin/sateen use move numbers to determine the stitching points for a given repeat size.

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Guruthinakeran Balasubramanian
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559 views

Basic Weaves

Plain, twill, and satin weaves are basic weaves that can be created on a simple loom without attachments. Plain weave is the simplest with warp and weft yarns alternating. Twill weaves form diagonal lines and have more threads than plain weave. Satin weave is distinguished by its luster, with 4+ warp yarns floating over each weft yarn. Rib, warp, and weft variations extend the plain weave. Twills are classified as warp or weft faced and balanced or unbalanced. Satin/sateen use move numbers to determine the stitching points for a given repeat size.

Uploaded by

Guruthinakeran Balasubramanian
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
Available Formats
Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Basic weaves

Plain, twill and satin weaves are often considered basic as they can be made on the
simple loom without the use of any attachment.

Plain weave

Plain weave is the simplest form of weaving that can be made on a simple loom. It
consists of alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns, one warp up and one down, the entire
width of the fabric. Plain weave requires only two harness loom and is the least expensive
weave to produce. It is described as 1/1weave: one harness up and one harness down when the
shed is formed. Plain weave fabrics have no right or wrong side unless they are printed or given
a surface finish. Because there are many interlacings per square inch, plain weave fabrics
wrinkle more, ravel less and be less absorbent than other weaves. The simplest form of plain
weave is one in which warp yarns and filling yarns are of the same size and the same distance
apart so that they show equally on the surface. Examples of plain weave include: muslin,
percale, cheese cloth, chambray, gingham, organdy, taffeta, seersucker, chiffon. The plain
weave may be modified by extending it warp or weft way or both.

Rib weave: The rib appearance is produced by either the use of heavy yarns in the warp or
filling direction. Many rib weave fabrics are produced by heavy yarns inserted as picks.
Examples are poplin, faille, ottoman etc. The extension of the plain weave thus produces a rib
effect.

Warp rib: A warp rib results from extending the plain weave in the warp direction. At A, B and
C are seen regular warp rib weaves and at D, is shown the irregular warp rib weave. E and F
show the interlacing of D and A respectively.

Weft rib: a weft rib structure results from extending the plain weave in the weft direction. The
prominence of the rib can be increased by suitable use of coarse and fine yarns. The dependence
of all rib constructions upon the correct thread settings is marked.

Matt rib: A matt rib results from extending the plain weave in both directions. In case of regular
matt weave, the plain weaves are extended equally in the warp and weft directions, where as
in case of irregular matt weaves, the plain weave is extended unevenly or irregularly in the
warp and weft directions.
Twill weave

Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be
constructed in a variety of ways. The main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other
types is the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.

The basic characteristics of twill weaves are :

 They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.


 More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
 Less binding points than plain cloth
 Better cover than plain weave
 More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.

Classification of twill weaves

The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms. They are however classified
broadly into important categories, namely :

 Warp faced twills


 Weft faced twills
 Warp and weft faced twills
 Balanced or unbalanced twill
 Right hand twill and Left hand twill

Warp Faced Twills: In these types of twills the warp thread floats over all the picks in a repeat
except one pick. The minimum repeat size required is 3. Examples of warp faced twills are 2/1,
3/1, 4/1, 5/1 etc.

Weft Faced Twills: These twills are the reverse of the previous ones. In these weaves the weft
thread floats over the warp on all picks in a repeat except one. Examples of weft faced twills
are 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5 etc.
Warp and Weft faced Twill: In these twills the warp and weft floats may be equal or unequal
with either the warp floats predominating the weft floats and vice versa.

Balanced and Unbalanced Twills:

In these types of twills the warp and weft floats may be equal or unequal. In other words
the twills may be of the reversible or irreversible types. Accordingly they may be known as
balanced and unbalanced twills. Examples of balanced twills are 2/2, 3/3, 4/4, 5/5 etc.
Examples of unbalanced twills are 2/3, 4/2, 5/3 etc. The 2/2 twill is popularly known as
“Gaberdene” weave.
Right hand twill and Left hand twill

Right hand twill (RHT) or ‘Z’ twill is the most common and can be easily identified by
the diagonal pattern that moves from the bottom left of the fabric to the top right.

Conversely, Left hand twill (LHT) or “S-twill”, is woven in the exact opposite direction
as RHT, starting from the bottom right and moving up to the top left of the fabric.

The above types of twills are further sub classified as:

 Ordinary or continuous twills


 Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
 Combination twills
 Broken twills

Satin weave

The satin weave is distinguished by its lustrous, or 'silky', appearance. Satin describes
the way the threads are combined, and the yarn used may be silk or polyester, among others,
giving different fabrics. The satin weave is characterized by four or more warp yarns floating
over a single weft yarn. This explains the even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, the light
reflecting is not scattered as much by the fibres.

Sateen is the reverse side of satin weaves. These weaves form an important category of
weaves. They are used in combination with other weaves, particularly in case of ornamented
fabrics. The striking feature of these weaves is their bright appearance and smooth feel.

The basic characteristic of satin/sateen weaves are :

 They are either warp or weft faced weaves.


 Have no prominent weave structures.
 Only one binding point in each end or pick
 No continuous twill lines
 Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility
 More thread density is possible in warp and weft
 More mass per unit area is possible
 Have less binding points and more float lengths
 Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves.
In the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the stitching points of warp or weft for a
given repeat size is done by the use of move numbers or stitch or float numbers. The move
numbers are selected according to the repeat size of the weave.

In choosing move numbers for the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the following
rules are to be adopted:

 The move number should not be equal to the repeat of the weave
 It should not be one less than the repeat size
 It should not be a factor of the repeat size, and
 It should not be a multiple of the factor.

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