DOCUMENTATION OF TEXTILE

INTERNSHIP

SUBMITTED BY:

MAYA N M
NIKITA RATISH
SIVANI JAYANTH

UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF:

MR. SUMIT KUMAR

SUBMITTED TO:

DEPARTMENT OF BACHELOR OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,

BHUBANESWAR, ODISHA-751024. Ph.: 0674-2492997, Fax: 0674-
2490992. Website: www.nift.ac.in 2018-2019

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DECLARATION
We Maya NM. Nikita Ratish and Sivani Jayanth, students of National Institute
Of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar hereby declare that the project titled
“Textile Internship Report” has been done by us under the guidance of our
Mentor Mr.Sumit Kumar.

Mentor name : Mr Sumit Kumar

Signature :

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 CONTENTS

PREFACE 4

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 5

INTRODUCTION 6

COMPANY PROFILE 7

SPINNING DEPARTMENT 22

RAW MATERIAL– SPINNING 23

BLOW ROOM 23 – 24

CARDING DEPARTMENT 25 – 26

COMBING 27 - 28

DRAWING 29

ROVING DEPARTMENT 30

RING SPINNING 31 - 32

OPEN END SPINNING 33

WINDING DEPARTMENT 34 - 36

CONDITIONING 36

PACKING – SPINNING 37

WEAVING DEPARTMENT 38

RAW MATERIAL 39 – 43

PPC – WEAVING 44 – 48

Q.A – WEAVING 49 – 55

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AUTO DRAWING 56 – 60

WARPING 61 – 64

SIZING 65 - 69

DESIGN DEPARTMENT 70

PRODUCTION WNG 71 - 80

INSPECTION & FOLDING 81 - 84

PACKING & DESPATCH 85 - 86

MAINTENANCE 87

UTILITY 88 - 92

CONCLUSION 93

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PREFACE
This document is an effort of the students of Bachelors in Fashion
Technology, NIFT Bhubaneswar to fulfil the graduation requirements of
Apparel Production program.

The document provides an insight about industrial processes of Alok Textiles

Industry, prevalent in Silvassa, Gujarat. The objective of this internship report
is to understand the concept of weaving and finishing of fabric, textile testing
and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purposes.
The research document also consists of the introduction of the Alok Industry.

We hope that this report will help to give a brief about Alok industry working
process.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We wish to express our sincere gratitude to National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Bhubaneswar for providing us an opportunity to do our project on
the topic “Industry internship in Textile sector”. We also thank Alok Textile
Industry, Silvassa for giving us permission and opportunity to learn from the
industry.
This project was a source of immense knowledge to us. We acknowledge with
a deep sense of gratitude, encouragement and inspiration received from our
faculty and staff of Alok Textile Industry. We wish to express our gratitude to
everybody who has assisted in learning process during this internship. There
are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there are some
special people who has to be given prominence, without whom we would not
have reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and efficiently.
We wish to thank our course coordinator, Ms Sulagna Saha for providing this
wonderful opportunity. We also take this opportunity to thank our mentor, Mr
Sumit Kumar for guiding us through the internship.

We are grateful to Mr Rinku Nath, general manager (HR) for allowing us to

do an internship at Alok Industry and providing us with all facilities required
during our internship period.

We also wish to thank a couple of senior managers as listed below for their
technical guidance and assistance during internship period.

NAME OF THE OFFICER DEPARTMENT

Ms Prachi Meshram IMS Department

Mr Dayanand Rana Raw Material
Mr Haresh Gondaliya PPC-Weaving
Mr A.G Kurien Aracken Q.A –Weaving
Mr Sanjay Basak Sizing
Mr Shirish Pawar Auto Drawing
Mr Dilip Kundu Design
Mr Vinay Tendulkar Production Weaving
Mr T.K Das
Mr Surjeet Patiyal Inspection & folding
Mr Tek Singh
Mr Jagannath Rout Packing & Despatch
Mr Shirish Pawar Maintenance
Mr Vinay Tendulkar Utility
Mr Rinku Nath H.R & I.R
Miss Prachi Meshram

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INTRODUCTION
The B.F.Tech (Apparel Production) programme moulds students to be
qualified for diverse work profiles available in the apparel-manufacturing
sector. The course curriculum aims to introduce different essential streams
including apparel manufacturing technology, information technology, quality
management, artificial intelligence etc. As per our curriculum we students
have to take an internship for 15 days to understand the concept of weaving
and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical
as well as for commercial purposes.

Internship also enables students to get a better understanding of a company

and its functioning.

We have chosen to pursue our internship at Alok Textile Industries in

Weaving and Knitting division at Rakholi, Silvassa. The company is India's
largest vertically integrated mill with an envious export record accompanied
by a dominant position in the domestic market. In this internship report, we
have presented a comprehensive picture of the activities undertaken at Alok
industries in the Weaving division.

OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP
Gain in-depth knowledge of the working of the industry in terms of –

1) Organization structure
2) Layout of the departments in the Industry
3) Material & manufacturing process
4) Quality control
5) Process flow of weaving division of the industry

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COMPANY PROFILE

REGISTERED OFFICE 17/5/1, 521/1, Village Rakholi/ Saily, Silvassa, The

Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli-396 230.
Tel No. 0260 6637000
Fax No. 0260 2645289

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CHAIRMAN AND DIRECTORS
The ownership pattern of Alok industries is public limited company.

Founder Chairwoman Late Bhagirathmal J. Jiwrajka

Executive Chairman SH. Ashok B Jiwrajka
Managing Director SH. Dilip B Jiwrajka
Joint Managing Director SH. Surendra B Jiwrajka
Directors of the company SH. Alok Jiwrajka
SH. Neeraj Jiwrajka
SH. Varun Jiwrajka
Tulsi N Tejwani (Executive Director)
Key executives Rajendra Maid (Vice President-
Weaving)
A G Kurien (Vice President- Quality
Assurance)
Kamal Tiwari (Vice President -
Accounts)
Rinku Nath (General Manager, HR,
IR & Admin)

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AWARDS

YEAR AWARD
2014 From Cotton Textile Exports Council
of India (TEXPROCIL):
 Gold Trophy for the Highest
Exports of Fabrics in 'Other
Fabrics including Embroidered
Fabrics, Laces, etc.' under the
Category II.
 Gold Plaque for the Highest
Exports of Yarn in 'Counts 50s
and below' under the Category I.
 Bronze Trophy for the Third
Highest Exports of Madeups in
‘Bed Linen/Bed Sheets/Quilts’
under the Category III.
 Bronze Trophy for the Third
Highest Exports of Madeups in
‘Terry Towels’ under the Category
II.
 Bronze Trophy for the Third
Highest Exports of
'Bleached/Dyed/Yarn
Dyed/Printed Fabrics' under the
Category II.

2013  The company has been honoured

by the ministry of textiles,
government of India at the textile
conclave 2013 brand India held in
New Delhi on 3 December 2013
as follows:
1) Largest exporter - mill sector
fabrics
2) Largest processor - processing
3) Largest producer - made ups &
home textiles
 Our company has won the
maximum number of awards for
the year 2012-2013 from
TEXPROCIL in the following
categories
1) Gold trophy for the highest exports
of bleached/dyed/yarn

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 dyed/printed fabrics
2) Gold trophy for the highest exports
of bed linen/bed sheets/quilts in
Madeups
3) Silver trophy for the second
highest global exports (overall)
4) Gold trophy (small) for the highest
exports of other fabrics including
embroidered fabrics, laces
5) Silver trophy (small) for the
second highest exports of terry
towels in Madeups
6) Gold plaque for the highest
exports of other cotton made-ups
2012  SILVER Trophy for Second
Highest Global Exports Category
 GOLD Trophy for Highest Exports
of Bleached/Dyed/Yarn
Dyed/Printed in Fabrics Category
 GOLD Trophy for Highest Exports
of Bed Linen/Bed Sheets/Quilts in
Made-ups Category

2011  ALOK has won the second best

export performance (silver trophy)
for the year 2010-11 in the
category of polyester yarn
 ALOK has won export awards in
three categories for the year 2010-
11
1) SILVER Trophy for Highest Global
Exports Category.
2) GOLD Trophy for Global Exports
of Bleached / Dyed / Yarn Dyed /
Printed Fabrics in Fabrics
Category.
3) GOLD Trophy for Exports of Bed
Linen / Bed Sheets /Quilts in
Made-ups Category.

2010 Alok has won TEXPROCIL awards in

three categories for the year 2009-
2010
 GOLD trophy for highest exports
of bleached / dyed / yarn dyed /

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 printed fabrics in fabrics category.
 GOLD trophy for highest exports
of bed linen / bed sheets /quilts in
made-ups category.
 SILVER trophy for highest global
exports category.

2009  ALOK has won TEXPROCIL

awards in three categories for the
year 2009
1) GOLD trophy for highest exports
of bleached / dyed / yarn dyed /
printed fabrics in fabrics category.
2) GOLD trophy for highest exports
of bed linen / bed sheets /quilts in
made-ups category.
3) SILVER trophy for highest global
exports category.
 Outstanding exporter of the year -
textiles at the international trade
awards 2008-09: presented by
DHL CNBC tv18; awarded for the
second consecutive year.

2008  TEXPROCIL awards in four

product categories
1) GOLD trophy for highest exports
of bleached /yarn dyed/printed
fabrics
2) SILVER trophy for highest export
of made-ups
3) BRONZE trophy for highest global
exports
4) Special achievement award for
fabric exports
 Outstanding exporter of the year -
textiles at the international trade
awards 2007-08: presented by
DHL CNBC tv18

2007  GOLD TROPHY for best Export

performance to 'Focus LAC'
Countries by Synthetic & Rayon
Textile Export Promotion Council
(SRTEPC).

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  Awarded 'Trading House' status
by the office of Zonal Joint
Director General of Foreign Trade.

 TEXPROCIL Awards in two

product categories

1) SILVER TROPHY for highest

fabric exports.
2) BRONZE TROPHY for highest
made-ups exports.

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RANKING

The Business World magazine has ranked Alok Industries Limited as Indias
68th biggest Company in FY 2010 in the non-financial sector according to
their latest survey on the basis of parameters like total income and total
assets. The Company has climbed up from the rank 86 calculated on the
same parameters in 2009.

On the basis of overall ranking, The Economic Times survey ET 500 has
ranked Alok Industries Limited as Indias 145th biggest Company in FY 2010.
The Company has improved its ranking considerably from 173 in 2009.

Alok Industries Limited has been accorded the status of "STAR TRADING
HOUSE CERTIFICATE".

ALOK'S LOGO

Alok’s logo was created in 2000 as a reflection of the company's growing

presence in areas of core competencies. The ‘a’ in the symbol is presented
in an integrated which nonetheless leaves ample room, scope and freedom
for growth within its free-flowing lines. It represents the integrated units of the
company. In addition, the clean lines depict modernity and steadfastness of
purpose. An open attitude establishes a touring leadership as well as
openness to the customer.
The bottom swoosh depicts a reach within boundaries that could be termed
as limitless, spanning the world as it is. The two basic colour combinations
blue and red also enhance the symbol's noticeability. Blue depicts aesthetics
and beauty, so evident in Alok logo very line of the company's various
manufacturing divisions and red is represented here as speed and reach.
Speed of response to changing environment and demands and a reach that
spans across the global market.

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ABOUT COMPANY
An Alok industry limited is one of the India's largest vertically integrated
companies. It is headquartered in Mumbai with its manufacturing units in
Vapi, Silvassa & Navi Mumbai. The company is an end to end provider of
integrated textile solutions with five core divisions namely cotton yarn,
polyester yarns, apparel fabrics, home textiles and garment.

HISTORY
Alok Industries was established in 1986 as a private limited company, with its
first polyester texturizing plant being set up in 1989. It became a public
limited company in 1993. Over the years, it has expanded into weaving,
knitting, processing, home textiles and garments and to ensure quality and
cost efficiencies they have integrated backward into cotton spinning and
manufacturing partially oriented yarn through the continuous polymerization
route. It also provides embroidered products through grabal Alok Impex Ltd.
their associate company which is the main reason for their evolution into a
diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles, garments, apparel
fabrics and polyester yarns, selling directly to manufacturers, exporters,
importers, retailers and to some of the world's top brands. Alok has recently
entered the domestic retail segment through a wholly owned subsidiary, Alok
retail India limited, with a chain of stores named H&A that offer garments and
home textiles at attractive price points. Alok also has an international
presence in the retail segment through its associate concern, grabal Alok
(UK) limited. This entity owns more than 200 outlets across England,
Scotland and whales vending value for money ranges for men's wear,
women's wear, kid’s wear, foot wear, home furnishing and accessories.

ALOK’S GOAL
1) Sales exceeding Rs. 18,000 crores.
2) Largest textile industry in the world in terms of revenue.
3) Zero defect in production and zero delay in deliveries.
4) Among the top 50 'best employer' in the country.

ALOK’S VISION
To be the world's best integrated textile enterprise, driven by research &
innovation, with a leadership position across products & markets, while
exceeding customer & stakeholder expectations. The barometer of our
success would be the ROCE.

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ALOK’S MISSION
We will,

1) Be a knowledge leader & an innovator in our business

2) Maximize people development initiatives
3) Optimize use of all resources
4) Become a process driven organization
5) Exceed compliance and global quality standards
6) Actively explore potential market & products
7) Offer innovative, customized and value-added services to our customers
8) Be an ethical, transparent and responsible global organization

VALUE OF THE ORGANIZATION

1) CUSTOMER SATISFACTION: We will be attuned to market needs;
wherever possible, we will anticipate market needs; we will respond
quickly to changes in customer requirements; we will be completely
focused on quality; we will keep delivery commitments on time and every
time; we will develop new products and processes that will go beyond
customer satisfaction to achieve customer delight.
2) PASSIONATE ABOUT EXCELLENCE: Excellence is non-negotiable in
every aspect of our business process. Superior quality of performance is
critical to our business growth and success. We will strive to exceed
expectations, be it internal or external.
3) DEVELOP HUMAN CAPITAL: We will empower, energize and inspire our
people to perform beyond their best; we will create empowered teams
that take informed decisions; we will recognize leverage skills and
strengths of various teams; we will enable sharing of knowledge we will
create an adequate 'bench strength' that will take care of changes in
business scenarios.
4) FAIR TO ALL: All our actions will be determined by fairness; we shall be
fair to our customers, vendors, shareholders, all our business partners
and society at large. Fairness is not just sticking to the letter of the law or
the contract but appreciating its spirit and basing all our actions on being
fair to the spirit of that understanding.
5) CONCERN FOR THE ENVIRONMENT AND THE COMMUNITY: We will
take the utmost care of our environment and the communities in which
we operate; we shall nurture our environment and its natural resources
and shall ensure that none of our actions deplete or pollute them; we will

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 encourage initiatives that create environmental sustainability and help in
community development.
6) SAFETY AND HEALTH: We will provide a safe workplace. We will
promote the health and well-being of our people and their families. We
will encourage
healthy work habits and a "work-life' balance. We believe that working
safely and protecting the health of our people is ‘working smart' and
creates greater and more sustainable wealth.
7) RESPONSIBLE CORPORATE CITIZEN: We recognize that we have our
responsibilities towards the society in which we operate. We commit
ourselves to be a responsible corporate citizen; our activities should not
only create shareholder wealth, but also community wealth.

EQUIPMENT AND TECHNOLOGY

Alok has invested in modern technology and equipment across all areas of
its operations. Our manufacturing technology compares favourably with
global
standards and offers us speed, versatility and quality. Most of the
machineries installed by the company are from leaders in their respective
fields. An indicative list is given below,

MACHINERY MANUFACTURER
Spinning 1) Compact Yarn Spindles from
Reiter (Switzerland) with auto
combing
2) Automatic Cone Winders from
Murata (Japan)
Weaving Looms 1) Picanol (Belgium)
2) Toyota (Japan)
3) Sulzer (Switzerland)
4) Weaving preparatory from
Benninger
(Switzerland)

Knitting Mayer & Cie (Germany)

Processing 1) Continuous Process Plant from
Benninger (Switzerland)
2) Stenter from Monforts (Germany)
3) Rotary Printing from Reggiani
(Italy)
4) Knit Process from Sclavos
(Switzerland)
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Garment Juki (Singapore)
Poy and Texturizing 1) TMF (Germany)
2) Oerlikon Barnac (Germany)
3) Cherntex (USA0
4) N.I Tejinshoji (Japan)

CERTIFICATION OF THE ORGANISATION

Our adherence to internationally recognized certification standards and
compliances (as listed below) is recognized by renowned certification bodies.

1. Comprehensive Integrated Management System (IMS) certification

comprising of
 ISO 9001:2015 Quality Management System
 ISO 14001:2015 Environmental Management System
 OHSAS 18001:2007 Occupational Health & Safety Management
System for all plants
 SA 8000:2008 for Social Accountability.
 ISO/TS 16949:2009 Quality Management System Technical
Specification for
 Polyester plant (under implementation)
 NABL ISO/IEC 17025:2005 Standard for Testing Laboratories in the
fields of
 Mechanical and Chemical testing at Processing plants in Vapi and
Pawane, Navi Mumbai.

2. Oeko-Tex Standard 100 for the following products including requirements

of Annex XVII of REACH certification
 Cotton and Cotton blended Yarn
 Woven and Knitted Fabric
 Made-ups, Home Furnishing including Accessories
 Garments including Accessories
 Terry Towels including Accessories
 Polyester Texturized Yarn and Polyester Staple Fibre

3. Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and OCS standards for Organic
Cotton Textiles
4. Fair Trade Standard Certification (FLO)
5. Egyptian Cotton License for using Egyptian cotton

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DIFFERENT SEGMENTS OF THE COMPANY
Sections of ALOK Industry are as follows,

1. Spinning
2. Knitting
3. Weaving
4. Poy/Texturizing
5. Apparel
6. Home Textiles
7. Embroidery

STRONG CUSTOMER BASE

Alok has a diversified customer base, both in India and overseas. In India,
they supply our textile offerings to top-of-the-line retailers, garment and home
textile manufacturers and exporters. They are also a nominated / preferred
vendor for several brands and retailers in the overseas markets, where our
wide range and product quality command loyalty and earn respect. They
export all over the World

COMPETITORS
1) Arvind Mills
2) Reliance
3) Raymonds
4) Bombay Dyeing
5) Nahar
6) Siyarams
7) Vardhaman
8) Bhilosa

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PRODUCT LINE
YARN
1) Cotton and blended yarn 2) Open ended yarn
3) Polyester yarn 4) Partially oriented yarn
5) Ring spun yarn 6) Gassed yarn
7) Texturized yarn 8)

APPAREL FABRIC
Woven fabric Knits Pique
Velour and fleece Voiles Twill
Interlocks Transfer jacquard Single Jersey
Cambric Ribs Auto stripers
Poplins Gabardine Lycra
Satins Etc.

HOME TEXTILES
Bed linen Terry toil
Sheet set Zero twist
Duvet cotton modal Sheared toil
Comforter Blankets
Yarn dyed sheared toil Quilts
Curtains

GARMENTS
Woven and knitted Work wear
Casual wear Garments for women, men and kids
Sports wear Sleep wear
Active wear

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SUPPORT INFRASTRUCTURE
To help the core manufacturing capabilities operate at their most efficient
levels, Alok has set up elaborate support infrastructure. Each of their plants is
backed by captive power plants and power substation that ensure
uninterrupted power supply, which in turn reduces stoppage of operations and
consequent wastages. Their world-class effluent treatment plants ensure that
no pollutants are discharged into the environment. Work safety practices are
continuously inculcated into the work-force, so that safe working practices
become a habit.

HUMAN RESOURCE
At Alok, the role of the HR team is structured to meet the needs of the
organization. As a successful organization, Alok is becoming more adaptive,
resilient, quick to change direction and customer-centred. Within this
environment, the HR team is a strategic partner, an employee sponsor or
advocate and a change mentor.

STRATEGIC PARTNER: In the role as a strategic partner, the HR team

contributes to the development of and the accomplishment of the
organization-wide business plan and objectives. The HR business objectives
are established to support the attainment of the overall strategic business plan
and objectives. This strategic partnership impacts HR services such as the
design of work positions; hiring; reward, recognition and strategic pay;
performance development and appraisal systems; career and succession
planning; and employee development.

EMPLOYEE ADVOCATE: As an employee sponsor or advocate, the HR

function plays an integral role in organizational success via knowledge about
and advocacy of people. This advocacy includes expertise in how to create a
work environment in which people will choose to be motivated, contributing,
and happy.

Fostering effective methods of goal setting, communication and empowerment

through responsibility, builds employee ownership of the organization. The HR
team helps establish the organizational culture and climate in which people
have the competency, concern and commitment to serve stake holders well.

In this role, the HR team provides employee development opportunities, talent

management strategies, leadership development, employee assistance
programs, gain sharing and profit-sharing strategies, organization

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development interventions, due process approaches to problem solving and
regularly scheduled communication opportunities.

CHANGE CHAMPION: The constant evaluation of the effectiveness of the

organization results in the need for the HR team to frequently champion
change. Both knowledge about and the ability to execute successful change
strategies makes the HR team a key catalyst to bring about change in the
organization. This a critical attributes to minimize employee dissatisfaction and
resistance to change.

The HR team contributes to the organization by constantly assessing the

effectiveness of the HR function. It also sponsors change in other departments
and in work practices. To promote the overall success of the organization, it
champions the identification of the organizational mission, vision, values,
goals and action plans.

The HR team will now refocus on the Company’s invaluable human resources
with renewed vigour. Come to think of it, if everything else is stripped off, the
future of an entity depends on those working there. Capital assets,
technological patents, and financial capital are empty vehicles without human
capital working in harmony to achieve common objectives. If one does not
adapt policies, practices, leadership styles, and thinking in ways aligned to the
reality of changing dynamics, one is really preparing for a downhill ride.
Managing human resources was never a simple task. It requires even more
attention and sensitivity now to successfully meet the challenges of a fast
changing world, which can indeed be daunting.

The Company will endeavour to develop a HRD framework for helping

employees develop their personal and organizational skills, knowledge, and
abilities. The Company will also endeavour to provide opportunities for
employee training, employee career development, performance management
and development, coaching, mentoring, succession planning, key employee
identification, and organization development. The Company’s transformational
focus of all aspects of HRD will be on developing the most superior workforce
so that the organization and individual employees can accomplish their work
goals in service to customers.

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SPINNING DEPARTMENT
OBJECTIVE

The main objective of spinning is the conversion of fibres into yarns.

BLOW ROOM

CARDING

COMBING

DRAWING

ROVING

RING SPINNING

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RAW MATERIALS DEPARTMENT

Cotton comes in bale form of bales; the weight of this baggy structure is
about 265 kg. The different varieties of cotton like BT cotton, conventional
cotton like Suplma from USA and Gizas from Egypt, imported cotton from
contamination free origin, Organic and Organic Fair trade cotton are used for
yarn manufacturing. The staple length varies from 28 mm to 33 mm. The raw
cotton is procured from the open market, primarily from states of Gujarat,
Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh.

Cotton is also imported from Egypt. An average nine months inventory of raw
cotton is maintained primarily for yarn manufacturing. Alok promotes contract
farming and buying cotton in bulk.

BLOW ROOM DEPARTMENT

OBJECTIVE

1. To open the compressed bale of cotton

2. To extract impurities and other foreign matters from cotton by opening
and beating
3. To allow passage of clean cotton either as fluffy mass or as lap (lap feed)
to the next machine.

INPUT

1. Bale of cotton
2. Bale weight-Average 265 kg
3. Relative humidity maintained in blow room (preparatory)-55-60%

OUTPUT

1. Clean open cotton fibre

A blow room is the area of spinning unit where opening, cleaning, mixing and
lap making of cotton fiber take place on machines. The cotton is received in
the mill in a hard pre-bale form which contains several impurities. The blow
room machinery performs function of opening hard pressed bales of cotton
and cleaning the cotton of impurities. Trash and foreign matter is extracted
from the cotton with the least amount of lint loss. The amount of waste
extracted would depend on the amount of trash in the mixing.

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At the Alok Industries Ltd., UNIFLOCK automatic bale opener machines are
used to open bales. The bales being opened are placed lengthwise or
crosswise on both sides of the bale opener, and the take-off unit can process
up to four opens the bales in micro different assortments. The machine has
tufts for effective cleaning and dust extraction. The machine gives the output
of upto 1400kg/hr. These micro tufts pass by pipes using pneumatic force.
Dust particle are removed manually as well as using machines.

Vision shield and magic eye, are the machines used in Alok for detecting of
dust particles.

1. Vision shield: This machine uses an ultraviolet light source, combined

with a light detector to identify foreign bodies.
2. Magic eye: This machine can detect white color and difficult to identify by
naked eyes synthetics like Polypropylene, independently of optical
bleaches or polarization effects.

S.NO. Machine/Equipment Purpose No. of

Machines/Equipments
1 A11 UNIfloc Bale Openers 4
2 Jossi THE VISION Foreign fibre 8
SHIELD MPX detection
3 B11 UNIclean Pre-cleaners 2
4 B12 UNlclean Pre-cleaners 2
5 B70 UNImix Blenders 4
6 B71 UNImix Blenders 4
7 B60 UNIflex Fine Cleaners 5
8 A78 UNIstore Feeder 1

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CARDING DEPARTMENT

Carding is known as the 'heart of spinning'. This process is done for the
individualization of the cotton fibers. The fibers after this process get
arranged into parallel form from zigzag arrangement

OBJECTIVE

1. To open the flocks into individual fibres

2. Cleaning or elimination of impurities
3. Elimination of dust
4. Elimination of short fibres
5. Fibre blending
6. Fibre orientation or alignment
7. Silver formation

INPUT

1. Cotton in the form of lap

OUTPUT

1. Carded sliver

WASTE

1. Flat stripes
2. Licker
3. Cylinder fly

Carded sliver is either directly used in open- End spinning or used for further
processing for ring machines are used for carding. At Alok Industry Ltd., C-60
cards machines are used for carding. The speed of the machines is 50 kg/hr.

There are two types of feeding to the cards –

1. Lap feed system fibers are formed into a lap or a compact sheet.
2. Chute feed system - flocks are transported pneumatically.

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At Alok Industry Chute Feed System is used. The advantage and
disadvantage of Chute feed system are as follows –

ADVANTAGE

1. High performance in carding due to high degree of openness of feed web.

2. Labour requirement is less due to no lap transportation and lap change in

cards.

3. For high production cards, only Chute feed system is suitable.

DISADVANTAGE

1. Linear density of the web fed to the card is not as good as lap.

2. The installation is not flexible

PRINCIPLE OF CARDING

1. Short fibers which are responsible for hairiness and reduction in strength
are to be removed.
2. Cotton is introduced in the form of flocks and obtained in the form of
slivers.
3. At carding, the faults like neps, hooks ends can come. These faults can be
rectified at the later stages
4. Rollers used in the carding machines are fixed at certain distance that
defines the minimum length of fiber required. These eliminates shorter
fibers but also gives rise to hooks (fibers held by front rollers form trailing
hooks while fibers held by back rollers form leading hooks)

INFRASTRUCTURE

Machines used in carding:

MACHINE MODELS Rieter 60 cards

NO. OF MACHINES 43

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COMBING DEPARTMENT
When fibre is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional
straightening combing. Combing is the process which is used to upgrade the
raw materials. It influences the following yarn properties:

1. Yarn evenness
2. Strength
3. Cleanness
4. Smoothness
5. Visual appearance

In addition to the above, combed cotton needs less twist than a carded yarn
because the short fibers are removed.

PURPOSE OF COMBING

In order to produce an improvement in yarn quality, the comber must perform

the following operations

1. Elimination of short fibres

2. Elimination of remaining impurities
3. Elimination of neps

The basic operation of the comber is to improve the mean length or staple
length by removing the short fibers. Since fineness of short fibres (noil) is low,
the overall micronaire of silver after combing is high. Because of combing,
fiber parallelization increases.

INPUT

1. Uni-lap

OUTPUT

2. Combed sliver

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PROCESS

For combing sliver from the carding, it is passed through pre -comber drawing
and then through the uni-lap to get smaller lap of cotton. These laps are then
fed to combers to get sliver, which has 14% to 18% of shorter staples
removed from it.

In this operation fine toothed combs continue straightening the fibres until
they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers
are combed out and completely separated out from the longer fibers.

INFRASTRUCTURE

No. of machines Machine models

Unilap E 32 combing preparation 8
E 65 combers 34

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DRAWING DEPARTMENT
OBJECTIVE

 Through doubling, the slivers are made even

 Doubling result in homogenization (blending)
 Through draft, fibers get parallelized
 Hooks created in the card are straightened
 Through the suction, intensive dust removal is achieved
 Auto leveller maintains absolute sliver fineness
INPUT

 Combed or carded sliver

OUTPUT

 Drafted sliver
 The main output of drawing is a more uniform sliver with uniform
mass/length distribution

PROCESS

In this process six sliver are combined together. The combining of several
fibers for the drawing, or drafting,
process eliminates irregularities that
would cause too much variation if the
slivers were pulling through singly.

The draw frame has several pairs of

rollers, each advanced set of which
revolves at a progressively faster
speed. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set.
The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver
coming out is the same size as each one of six going in, but is attended to
six times the length per minute. The sliver is now much more uniform and
fibers much more nearly parallel.

Draw frame contributes less than 5% to production cost of yarn. But its
influence on quality is very big, because drawing is the final process of
quality improvement in the spinning mill and quality of draw frame sliver
determines the final yarn quality.

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INFRASTRUCTURE

MACHINE MODELS NO. OF MACHINES

SB-D 40 Breaker draw frames 18
RSB-D 40 Auto leveller draw frames 19

ROVING DEPARTMENT
OBJECTIVE

 Reduce the thickness of the sliver into roving, imparts twists and winds it
around a bobbin.
 The main function of speed frame is to make roving from the draft sliver
that has strength to withstand the tension variation at ring frame.

INPUT

 Sliver

OUTPUT

 Rove

PURPOSE OF ROVING

Sliver is thick, untwisted strand that

tends to be hairy and to create fly.
The draft needed to convert this is
around 300 to 500. Drafting
arrangement of ring frames are not
capable of processing this strand in
a single drafting operation to create
a yarn that meets all the normal
demands on such yarns. Hence,
roving frame is used.

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PROCESS

The can of sliver from drawing frame is fed between three sets of drafting
rolls. Each following set of rolls runs faster than preceding sets. This pulls
sliver and thins it down, making fibers nearly parallel. Drawing out and
twisting take place until the cotton stock is about the diameter of a pencil
lead.

The spindle turns flyer and is driven at a constant speed. The front rolls are
set at a speed that gives strand coming out of the rolls a predetermined
number of turns of twist per inch as it move along between rolls and flyer.
The bobbin is driven by a source separate from gear that drives spindle and
flyer. The bobbin is regulated to turn automatically at a speed sufficiently
faster than flyer, which causes roving to wind on bobbin at same rate as it is
delivered by front roll. To this point, only enough twist has been given the
stock to hold the fibers together.

MACHINE MODELS NO. OF MACHINES

F 15 frames with 160 spindles each 18

RING SPINNING DEPARTMENT

Ring frame gives the final output for spinning i.e. yarn. The productivity of the
factory is determined by the output of the ring frame.

OBJECTIVE

 It reduces the thickness of the roving to the desired yarn count by means
of drafting rollers Drafting arrangement is the most important part of the
machines. It influences mainly evenness and strength.
 It imparts twists into the yarn thus strengthening it and preventing short
fibers from protruding.
 Packing it in a more easy to handle package
INPUT

 Rove

OUTPUT

 Bobbin

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PROCESS

The ring frame, which is general in use, is more suitable for the manufacture
of cotton yarns in mass production. Its hundreds of spindles whirling
thousands of revolutions per minute and constant spinning action provide a
fast operation

The ring spinning frame completes the

manufacture of yarn:

 By drawing out the roving

 By inserting twist
 By winding the yarn on bobbins -
all in one operation
The principle of spinning is same as
that used in roving except that the
operation is more refined and a ring and traveller are used instead of the
flyer. The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame. From bobbin
roving is fed between set of drafting rollers running at successively higher
rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired to draw
strand down to it final desired size.

The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is
adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired amount of twist
as strand moves along. The traveller glides freely around ring. The tension
caused by drag of traveller causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of
speed as it delivered by rolls. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such
processing as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into
skeins for bleaching or may be wound on cheeses or spools, for ultimate
weaving where it passes through several sets of rollers.

INFRASTRUCTURE

MACHINE MODELS NO. OF MACHINES

Reiter G 331 ring spinning machines 21
with 1200 spindles each
Reiter K 441 comfor spin machines 63
with 1200 spindles each

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 OPEN- END SPINNING DEPARTMENT
INPUT

 Carded sliver

OUTPUT

 Open end spun yarn

PROCESS

Open end spinning or open-end spinning is a technology for creating yarn

without using a spindle. It is also known as break spinning or rotor spinning.
Sliver is fed into the machines and combed and individualized by the
opening roller. The fibres are then deposited into the rotor where air current
and centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where they
are evenly distributed. The fibres are twisted together by the spinning action
of the rotor, and the yarn is continuously drawn from the centre of the rotor.
After twisting, the output yarn is then wound into ‘cheese’ or ‘cone’ packages
of the required size.

Open end spinning machines can run up to 1, 40,000 rpm. The production
rate 6-8 times higher than that of ring spinning and as the machines are fed
directly with sliver and yarn is wound onto the packages ready for use in
fabric formation. In this way the yarn is lot cheaper to produce.

Continuous sliver Sliver is Fibres are twisted

Yarn delivered in
supply to the individualized by together by the
wound package
machine opening roller spinning action of
rotor

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ADVANTAGES

 The Higher rate of production: the rate of production is much higher in this
case and so this reduces the cost of the production to a substantial
amount.
 Low power consumption: since the machine consumes less time for
producing a substantial amount of product, it automatically leads to less
power consumption. This definitely adds up to its efficiency.
 Large packages of yarn: The final package size has continued to increase
. it reduces tube change frequency and reduces idle time and thus reduces
idle time for creeling.

INFRASTRUCTURE

 Number of rotors : 5424

WINDING DEPARTMENT
Package obtained from ring frame is bobbin which holds a small amount of
yarn. It is not easy as well conveniet to transport the cops from one place to
other .Secondly, these packages can’t find any use in weaving where along
and continuos supply of yarn is required .Hence six bobbins are combined to
make a cone.This is done by Autoconer.

OBJECTIVES

 To remove yarn fault

 To make bigger package ( 60 gram bobbins to 2 kg cones) by splicing
 Lubrication of yarn

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INPUT

 Bobbin

OUTPUT

 Cone

PROCESS

During winding, various faults such as neps, thick and thin section are
removed.

The machine is controlled by computer. Six bobbins are arranged in a stand

that can be rotated. The yarn from a single bobbin is taken by the machine. It
is passed through a waxing rod that provides wax. Then, it is passed through
electric yarn clearer and splicing unit. This unit contains sensing device
(optical and capacitance based) that detects the presence of any fault like
thick or thin places , contamination ,hairiness ,nep formation .weak places .
Such places are cut or spliced and the two ends of the yarn are tied into a tiny
knot.

A tensioning device maintains the tension in the yarn and thus helps in
maintaining uniform tension while winding the yarn.

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INFRASTRUCTURE

MACHINE MODEL NO. OF MACHINES

Murata 21 winders 84

CONDITIONING DEPARTMENT
The normal moisture content of cotton is around 6-6.5 % . After converting to
yarn, cotton has only 4 % of moisture. A conditioning machine imparts
required amount of moisture and give strength to the yarns. It uses steam,
high temperature and pressure. Steam penetrates into the material and
increases the strength of the yarn. If conditioning of yarn is not done,
problems like snarling and end twist can occur.

PURPOSE

 Increases weight and strength of the cone.

 Increase absorption capacity of dyeing

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PACKING DEPARTMENT
Mainly there are two types of packing methods

 Palette packing - cones or cheese wrapped in plastic are placed on top of

one another and the entire package is wrapped in plastic. The maximum
number of layers possible is 12.
 Carton packing- cones or cheeses are wrapped in plastic and packed into
baseboard boxes. Depending upon the cone or cheese weight, the size or
capacity of the carton varies.
 Carton palette packing - This is another type of packing method which is
based on customer orders, which is called carton pallet packing. In this
method of packing, Cartons already filled with cheeses or cones are
placed on top of each other in layers and then the entire package is
wrapped in plastic.

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WEAVING DEPARTMENT PROCESS

BUYER’S REQUIREMENT PACKING & DISPATCH

SAMPLING DEVELOPEMENT INSPECTION & FOLDING

QUALITY ANALYSIS PROUCTION WEAVING

DESIGN ANALYSIS DESIGN

BUYER’S APPROVAL AUTO DRAWING

PURCHASE ORDER SIZING

SALES ORDER QUALITY ANALYSIS

PPC RAW MATERIALS

Alok is an end to end textile company. The company majors in fabric made of
cotton, both organic and regular cotton, polyester yarn with blends like
viscose, Lycra, melange, etc.

Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or

threads namely, warp and weft yarn are interlaced at right angles to form
a fabric or cloth. The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other
is called the weave.

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RAW MATERIALS

MATERIAL VERIFIED AT THE GATE

GIVE MESSAGE TO THE OPERATOR

VERIFIED WHETHER THE ORDER IS GIVEN

OR NOT

VERIFIED WHETHER THE ORDER IS GIVEN

OR NOT

ENTRY

CHECK THE DATA

SAMPLE GOES TO QA TO CHECK THE

QUALITY

UNLOADING

STOCKED

DISTRIBUTE TO DEPARTMENT

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MATERIALS IN THE RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

Raw Material section is covered in two types:

1. Grey Material
2. Dyed Material

1. Grey Material
Grey or greige yarns are unprocessed yarns. These yarns are stored
according to order and maximum time is kept there for almost 2-6 months.
Stored yarns are cotton, polyester and blends. These yarns are further send
to Q&A department for quality assurance. Every pivot has around 128 cones
(form in which yarns are stored) and labelling is done for all these racks
having details below:

1) Label
2) Tear weight
3) Box weight
4) Lot no
5) Gross weight
6) Overall weight

After assurance of quality these yarns are further send for sectional warping
and sizing

2. Dyed Material
Dyed yarns are first tested and then stored. Process for dyed yarn storage is
explained below:

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1) When the yarn comes it is sent to design department for procedural
checking like yarn count and then sample is prepared with authentication
of PPC (production planning and control sampling)
2) Expert level material will be accepted without any shade variation.
Maximum shade numbers of shades are stored 19-20. These yarns are
dyed in VAPI (Alok Industries).
3) If needed these yarns are also imported from some running prestigious
industries like NAHAR, ZIDAL (Ahmadabad). Then it is further sent for
warping process.

The yarns are received in three different forms:

1. Hang: For handlooms
2. Cheese: Open end yarns
3. Cone: Cotton and blends

YARN MATERIAL BLENDED YARN YARN TYPE

Organic Cotton Cotton Viscous (CV) Carded Yarn

Cotton Polyester Viscous (PV) Combed Yarn
Viscous Polyester Cotton (PC) Compact Yarn
Polyester Chief Value Cotton Core/Fancy/Lycra
(CVC)
High Twist Yarn
Roto/Open End Yarn
Slub Yarn

PROCEDURE FOLLOWED IN THE RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

1) Raw material plays a very vital role in weaving division.

2) Raw material requirement is sent from raw material department as per
PP
chart. This requirement generated by raw materials and sent to marketing
division is
called as indent
3) Marketing department books the yarn req. from the required spinning
companies
4) Marketing department takes the assistance of Q.A (Quality Assurance)
department to select the proper raw material which works best on
weaving machine in Alok Industry.

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5) The yarn is then sent to the company and unloaded from trucks by
forklifts into the mill.
6) After unloading the material is sorted by lot number and the quantity of
the material onto the racks.
7) The Quality Assurance department now tests the predetermined number
of packages.
8) Until the material is tested, the raw materials are assigned a yellow tag.
Once accepted the raw materials are assigned a green tag. If rejected
the raw materials are given a red tag.
9) The marketing division inform the Production and Planning Control
department of the quality of cloth to be produced, which in turn is
informed to the Raw Material department to check the availability of the
materials and then only is the production plan sent to all the departments.
10) Alok consumed 80% raw materials from his own spinning mill & 20% raw
materials from other industry.
11) The required yarn and materials are written on the PP chart and
circulated among the preparatory, sizing, warping and processing
respectively.
12) The raw material is purchased directly from the company if it’s grey yarn
and for dyed yarn, the yarn is sent to the Vapi Unit and is sent back to
Silvassa Unit.

COMPANIES FROM WHICH RAW MATERIAL IS PURCHASED

1) ALOK spinning Mills (GTN)

2) Nahar spinning Mills
3) Vardhaman spinning Mills.d gilt
4) Nagarika spinning Mills
5) Trident spinning Mills
6) Subburaj cotton mills (Rajapalayam)
7) Mohan spintex mills
8) Sandhya spinning mills
9) Idupulapadu spinning mills
10) Patspin mills
11) Narendra cotton mills
12) Sri parmeshwari spinning mills
13) Maral overseas Ltd
14) Ramalinga spinners
15) Pratibha syntax ltd. (organic cotton)
16) Priyadarshini mill

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17) RSWMltd. (Banswara) bhilwara group
18) R.M Mohite spinning mills (vadagaon)
19) Shree Vishnu Shankar Mill LTD
20) Suprime Tex Mart LTD (Ludhiana)
21) L.S Mill LTD
22) Sangam spinners (bhilwara)
23) Ahhuja Cotspin Pvt Ltd (Ludhiana)
24) Ramalinga Ltd
25) Century Yarns (Mumbai)
26) Euro Tex Export (Kolhapur)

LAYOUT OF RAW MAERIALS DEPARTMENT

Rack to Rack Distance = 4.2 Mtrs

Way = 3 Mtrs

Total Workers = 20

Staff Member = 7

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PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL (PPC)

ENQUIRY FROM MARKETING

IS IT NEW
CREATE NEW SORT CHECK WARP/WEFT
QUALITY
UPADTE BOM WEIGHT

AS PER ORDER QUANTY CALCULATE YARN

REQUIRED

MAIL TO YARN PROCUREMENT TEAM FOR YARN

DELIVERY LEAD TIME

WITH REFERENCE TO YARN LEAD TIME, WEAVING

LEAD TIME CALCULATED AND FABRIC DELIVERY
DATE ENTERED IN

MARKETING RAISES SALES ORDER/IF PROCESS

ORDER STPO

AFTER SO, STPO RECEIVED, PP CREATED BY PPC,

YARN REQUIREMENT SEND TO RAW MATERIAL

RAW MATERIAL TEAM RAISES YARN INDENT

BASED ON PP

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 A

IS YARN BASED ON YARN INDENT,

PURCHASE ORER MADE NO YES YARN STOP RAISED FOR
FROM IN
FOR OUTSIDE YARN SPINNING
HOUSE

YARN REQUIREMENT RAISED ON DAILY BASIS MADE AS

PER ORDER DELIVERY FROM SPINNING

NO IS YARN DELIVERD AS
PER YARN
REQUIREMENT

FOLLOW UP MAIL SENT TO YARN

PROCUREMENT TEAM, PRODUCTION
CEO, SPINNING CEO, MARKETING YES
TEAM

ORDER PLANNED IN WARPING, SIZING,

AND PRODUCTION

LOOM PLAN AND GIVEN TO

PRODUCTION

IS PRODUCTION
NO
AS PER PLAN
TAKE CORRECTIVE ACTION
YES
CONFIRM FABRIC READY DATE TO
MARKETING/PLAN DISPATCH

ENSURE COMPLETE DISPATCH/CLOSE ORDER

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Production planning is an activity that is performed before the actual
production process takes place. It involves determining the schedule of
production, sequence of operations, economic batch quantities, and also the
dispatching priorities for sequencing of jobs.

PPC Department of Alok Industry works on 3 Categories of Fabrics:

CATEGORY MANAGER MACHINES PRODUCTION

PER DAY
Wider Width Mr Sandeep 946 2 lakh
(Above 74 Sharma
inch)
Normal Width Mr Krishna 500 2 lakh
(Greige Raju
Fabric)
Yarn Dyed Mr Rajesh 500 1 lakh
Fabric Kumar

MISSION OF PPC DEPARTMENT

1) To plan production facilities in the best possible manner along with

proper and systematic planning of production activities.
2) Providing men, machines, materials etc. of right quality, quantity and also
providing them at the right time, forms a very important factor.
3) To inform, about the difficulties or the various awkward positions
expected to crop up later, to the management beforehand.

WORKING PROCEDURE OF PPC DEPARTMENT

1) The order of client is received by the PPC Department from the

Marketing department with all requirements and details.
2) The order sample is made in the form of CAD or Cutting piece or
sample.
3) Then the sample is send to the QA department for the analysis of the
following of Warp Count, Weft Count, EPI (Ends per Inch), PPI (Picks
per Inch), GSM (Gram per Sq. Meter) and Weave.
4) Simultaneously the sample is also sent to the design department for
checking sample specifications and for matching the specific colour and
its pantone number.
5) The report of analysis is sent to the PPC Department.

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6) Once the report is approved Sampling is done in two forms according to
the buyer’s requirements,
 Desk loom development - It is a 6"*6" prepared sample at the first
level of production.
 Once a desk loom is approved, yardages are made which is 35
meter of the sampling of fabric on required width.
7) This sample is sent to the buyer. If the buyer is satisfied with the sample
then he places the order in bulk.
8) Finally as per the order of the marketing department a work order is
prepared with all the details and identification no. taking into
consideration
the construction, weave, EPI, PPI, order quantity in meter.
9) This work order comes to the PPC department which in turn passes the
yarn requirement information to the raw material department where they
place order to the PPC department as per quantity of dispatch product.
For yarn dyed fabric, production details are taken from designing
department which identifies the fabric on scale of shade and quality
10) A Loom plan is prepared which is a program sent to the preparatory
department, loom shed for the process of the warping and sizing and
folding department mentioning the date of completion delivery and
dispatch.
11) Production in monitored at each stage by PPC Department.
12) PPC Department issues mainly three details-
 Pattern cards-A computerized version of the required weave to
assist weaving the required product.
 Draft plan-Giving the drawing sequence or lifting of warp yarn in
heald frame.
 Order-A proper plan to describe the process flow within given time
constraints.

IDENTIFICATION TABLE OF ALOK INDUSTRIES

1) To identify the qualities & quantities, nomenclature is given by the head

office
2) It is a five digit nos. where the first digit tells the type followed by the
quality number.
3) The work order is a plan including information such as reed, dent in the
reed EPI, PPI, weave, reed space, yarn consumption, stock port reed
count, etc.

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SORT NUMBER FABRIC TYPE
10000 – 19999 Cotton warp and weft
20000 – 29999 Viscose (can be warp and weft)
30000 – 39999 Polyester CVC
40000 – 49999 Organic cotton
50000 – 59999 Yarn dyed
60000 – 69999 Silk

TIME PERIOD OF DELIVERY OF FABRIC

For Yarn Dyed Fabrics - Within 45 days, delivery of fabric is done. Days
allotted for different departments are,

 8-10 days for spinning

 8-10 days for yarn dyeing
 7 days for approval
 4 days for process hours (such as sizing, warping etc.)
 18 days for weaving

For Non- Dyed Fabrics - Within 35 days, delivery of fabric is done. Days
allotted for different departments are

 8-10 days for spinning

 7 days for approval
 4 days for process hours
 18 days for weaving

PPC FORMULAE USED

YARN WEIGHT IN FABRIC

Warp weight/100 Mtrs = Onloom EPI x Reed Space x (100+Crimp%)

Warp Count x 1693
Onloom EPI = Fabric EPI -4 or Reed x Ends/Dent x 2

Weft Weight/100 Mtrs = PPI x Reed Space x 100

Weft Count x 1693
Fabric weight = Warp Weight + Weft Weight

PRODUCTION PER DAY

Production/day = RPM x 24 x 60 x Efficiency

39.39 x PPI

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QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

INSPECTION

INDICATE FAULTS

INFORM THE CONCERNED DEPARTMENT

CAUSE OF FAULT

REMOVAL OF FAULT

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Quality assurance refers to the engineering activities implemented in a
quality system so that requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled. It
is the systematic measurement, comparison with a standard, monitoring of
processes and an associated feedback loop that confers error prevention.

Quality Assurance includes management of the quality of raw materials,

assemblies, products and components, services related to production and
management, production and inspection processes.

PROCEDURE OF QUALITY CHECKING DEPARTMENT

 PRODUCTION OF YARN

During spinning raw materials are tested on the basis of its strength and
contamination. The quality of yarn is also assured during the time of its
production process to prevent yarn breakages and loom stoppages.

The yarn is finally tested before its export. The basic tests are EPI, PPI etc. If
the yarn is exported to customer then the yarns are tested according to the
demand of the customer, whereas if the yarns are used by the industry itself
then the yarns are tested according the final product in the QA department.

The key parameters that are there for testing yarns are Count, Strength, TPI
(Twist per Inch), Elongation, Blend % and Hairiness.

The yarns are randomly collected for sampling and tested depending on the
total quantity of yarns required. If the total quantity is less then few samples
are collected and if the total quantity is more, more samples are collected
and sent to QA department for further testing procedures.

 WEAVING

Weaving samples made prior to finalizing order are also sent to the QA
department for checking the basic parameters and the parameters that the
buyer demands.

The key parameters for the fabric are EPI (Ends per Inch), PPI (Picks per
Inch), GSM, Fabric Width, Strength, Warp and Weft Material, Tearing
strength, Tensile strength and Evenness.

 FABRIC

Once the fabric is manufactured the folding and inspection department

grades the fabric according to the four point inspection grading system.

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However, to minimise customer complaints and ensure that no mistakes are
made on behalf of the industry, two to three pieces of the inspected fabric is
randomly picked by the quality assurance department and checking is done
to ensure whether the grades assigned to the fabric are matching to the
grades obtained by the QA department assigned to the same fabric.

TESTING EQUIPMENTS IN QA DEPARTMENT

1. Uster Tester 5
2. Uster Tensojet 4
3. Electronic Twist Tester
4. Single yarn strength tester
5. Electronic wrap reel
6. GSM Cutter
7. Elmatear digital tear tester
8. Tensile strength tester
9. Uster Classimat Quantum
10. Lea strength tester

1. USTER TESTER 5

The instrument by which unevenness (U %), co-efficient of variation of mass

(CVm %), yarn hairiness, imperfection index (IPI) and thick, thin place, neps,
etc. of yarn, roving sliver can be measured or calculated is called Uster
Evenness Tester or Uster Tester 5.

Principle of Uster Evenness Tester

Raw material as well as spinning problem can be detected by the
measurement of yarn unevenness which is done by Uster evenness tester or
Uster tester-5.
The quality parameter is determined by a capacitive sensor. In this case the
yarn, roving or sliver is passed through the electric field of a measuring
capacitor. Mass variation of the material causes the disturbance of the

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electric field which is converted into electric signal i.e. is proportional to the
mass variation of the material. The unevenness is recorded as a diagram.

Uses of Uster Evenness Tester:

1. Evenness measurement of yarn, roving and sliver

2. Measurement of imperfection (thick, thin places, neps)
3. Mass analysis
4. Spectrogram analysis/frequency analysis
5. Yarn hairiness measurement
6. Fabric simulation i.e. before making fabric
7. Variation of trend analysis

2. USTER TENSOJET 4

Uster Tensojet 4 is a unique control system that gives an accurate forecast

of yarn behaviour in subsequent processing, especially on high-performance
weaving and knitting machinery. Its precise measurements of tensile force
and elongation also verify the yarn’s suitability for the end-product, as well as
facilitating analysis of the yarn production process and fault tracing

Uses of Uster Tensojet 4

1. Measurement OF SINGLE YARN STRENGTH

2. Measurement of RKM (Resikilometer) and their variations

3. ELECTRONIC TWIST TESTER

Uses of Paramount Electronic Twist Tester are to determine TPI (Twists per
Inch) in single as well ply yarns. They have two systems namely, Direct and
Indirect system.

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Standards set for the machine

1. Standard Test length - 20 inch

2. Standard TPI of machine - 28.5
3. Standard pre-set count - 99

4. SINGLE YARN STRENGTH TESTER

Single Yarn Strength Tester to determine breaking strength and elongation

of single cotton, wool and other yarns up to 50 N. Yarn Strength Tester
complies with ASTM D2256, ISO2062, GB/T14344, etc.

Uses of single yarn strength tester

Single Yarn Strength Tester is used to determine the breaking strength and
elongation rate of single yarn made of cotton, wool, and others up to
6000cN, with air-driven clamps. Fully automatically test up to 20 cops at the
same time.

Specifications of Single Yarn Strength Tester

1. Test range 20cN ~ 6000cN

2. Accuracy ≤ 1% F. S
3. Sampling range 0 ~ 9m
4. Pre-tension load 0 ~ 100cN, adjustable
5. Elongation range 800mm
6. Gauge length 250mm (stretching rate 220%), 500mm (stretching rate
160%)
7. Tensile speed 50 ~ 5000mm/min, adjustable

5. ELECTRONIC WRAP REEL

Electronic Wrap Reel is used of this to produce the lea/skin for CSP test
Specifications of Electronic Wrap Reel

1. Dia. of wrap reel - 1.5 yard

2. No of cones use – 9

6. GSM Cutter

This machine is used to cut the fabric into a circular piece for particular tests.

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7. ELMATEAR DIGITAL TEAR TESTER

This machine is used for measuring fabric tear strength. The testing capacity
of the machine is 6400grams.

Elmatear digital tear tester works on the ballistic principle.

8. TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

Tensile testing machine is used to determine the breaking force, elongation,

and toughness properties of the fabric.

Tensile strength testing machine operates in Constant-rate-of extension

(CRE) mode.

Specifications of machine are,

1. Testing Capacity – 3000N

2. Fabric length – 25cm
3. Fabric width – 10cm
4.
Pressure – 6 kg/cm3
5. Distance between two jaws – 7.5cm

9. USTER CLASSIMAT QUANTUM

Uses of Uster Classimat Quantum are;

1. Measurement and classification of thick and thin places in yarn

2. Detection of foreign fibres in yarn

The Uster Classimat Quantum runs on capacitance principle. Specifications

of machine are,

1. Testing speed is 500 mtr/min

2. Total measuring speed 100km
3. Total no of spindles are 12

Grading of faults by Uster Classimat Quantum

A 0.1 – 1.0 Neps

B, C, D 1.0 – 8.0 Short thick
E, F, G 8.0 – 32.0 Long thick
H1+ H2+ I1+I2 Thin
A4+ B3 Long thin

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10. LEA /CSP STRENGTH TESTER
Lea strength tester is used to determine count and strength of a lea (a total
of 80 single yarns)
Principle of Lea Strength Tester is constant rate of elongation.
Specifications of machine are,

1. Specimen length of lea is 665.8mm.

2. Pressure of the machine is 4kg/cm.
3. Weight on machine is 500lb.

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AUTO DRAWING – IN

PROGRAM

BEAM

HEALED FRAME & HEALED WIRES

D-BOX/DROP PINS

REED

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Drawing-in is the entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving
elements of a weaving machine, namely drop wires, heddles and reed, when
starting up a new fabric style. Tying-in-the new warp ends to the depleted
warp is done when a pattern is not required.

In Alok Industry, the drawing-in processes are fully automated. Drawing-in is

done using Staubli delta 110 machines. A special type of heddle is needed
for automated drawing-in. The warp ends, taken from the warp sheet, are fed
individually to the drawing in element; heddles are separated from the stack
and brought to the drawing-in position; a knife opens a gap in the reed and a
hook draws-in the warp end through the heddle and reed in one step.
Automatic drawing-in increases speed, flexibility and quality in weaving
preparation compared to manual drawing-in. A drawing-in rate of 50,000
warp ends per 8 hours (200 ends per minute) is possible.

REQUIREMENTS FOR AUTO DRAWING

1) Program (from PPC/weaving)

2) Beam (from sizing/sectional warping)
3) Heald frame & healed wires (weaving)
4) D-box/ drop pins (weaving)
5) Reed (weaving)

1) PROGRAM

In the program which is given by the PPC department the following details
are given,

 Sort number
 Beam number
 Total no. Of healed frames in body & selvedge
 Draft
 Reed count & denting order
 Warp pattern

2) BEAM

 Beam is sent for auto drawing by the sizing department/ sectional

warping department.
 Beam card is also sent which gives details like warp count, total ends,
sort number.

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3) HEALD FRAME/HEALD WIRES

Steps followed for installation of heald wires are,

 Removal of heald wires from healed frames

 Feeding on Staubli delta 110

TYPE OF HEALD WIRES DESCRIPTION

C Type This heald wire has the shape of the

alphabet ‘C’.
The ‘C’ type of heald wire is used in
Air jet looms.
J Type This heald wire has the shape of the
alphabet ‘J’.
The ‘J’ type of heald wire is used in
Rapier looms.
Simple Arrangement In simplex arrangement only one
type of single heald wire is used.
Duplex arrangement 2 types of a certain shape of heald
wire are used.
In duplex arrangement number of
healed wires used is more.
Hence more number of ends can be
occupied in the frame.

DIMENSION OF HEALD WIRES

331 mm x 0.3 mm x (5.5 mm x 1.2 mm) where 331 mm is the length of the
wire, 0.3 mm is the width. There is a slot in the healed wire for the warp end
to pass; it is called the healed eye. Here the eye size is 5.5 mm in length&
1.2mm is the width of the eye.

SPECIFICATIONS OF AUTO – DRAWING MACHINES IN ALOK INDUSTRY

 Around 95% of looms in Alok industry use duplex system.

 Before feeding the healed frames in the machine an important step of
washing the healed wires take place in a machine "spaleck machine".
 In the machine the healed wires are washed and dried.
 In this machine healed frame with healed wires in it is fed in the
machine, the carriage, carrying the healed frame in the machine
moves to and fro, this motion is called cycles.
 After that the separation of wires takes place.

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4) D-BOX/ DROP PINS (WARP STOP MOTION)

 The d-box arrangement is basically used as a warp stop motion.

 There are serrated bars on which there are drop pins.
 Each warp end is made to pass over a drop pin.
 Due to tension the yarn is held tightly enough in between the slot of the
drop pin.
 If a warp end breaks the drop pin falls on the serrated bar & because of
electrical contact the machine stops.
 Dimension of drop pin-165 mm x 11 mm x 0.2/0.3 mm.
 Here 165 mm is length of the wire. 11mm is the breadth and 0.2/0.3 mm
is the thickness of the wire.
 Usually when a yarn of count above 60% is to be woven into a fabric the
healed wire used is of 0.2 mm thickness. & when the yarn count is below
60% is to be woven into a fabric the wire of drop pins, thickness 0.3 mm
is used.

The steps involved in the installation of drop pins are,

 Removal of drop pins from serrated bars

 Cleaning on spaleck machine
 Feeding on delta 110 machine

5) REED

 Two different types of reeds are used, profile reed & plain reed for air jet
and rapier looms respectively.
 Both machines employ a concept that allows configuration of the
machine to exactly match the customer's requirements.
 The modular design enables stepwise expansion of the capacity and
application capabilities.
 This makes it easier to plan investments and it limits the need for future
expenditures.
 The machines can be kept continuously at a state of the art level

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DETAILS OF STABULI DELTA 110

Model Delta 110 (Staubli )

Maker Staubli delta 110
Year of made 2001.10
Type : Delta 110 for J Heald with drop wires
Max drawing - in speed 100 thread/min
Speed back option 140 thread/min
Counter range Tex 3ẩ ¼ 250
Diameter of the warp beam 1,200mm
Heald length 260â ¼ 362 mm
Heald thickness 0.23 â ¼ 0.38 mm
Type Simplex & duplex
Eyes J/C type heald
Maximum number of frames (i.e. Maximum 20
heald)
Support rods Maximum 16
Thread eye offset Maximum 10mm
Number of warps in 8h (ca.) Upto 5 (6')
Warp widths (m) 2.3 (delta 100), 2.3/4.0/6.0 (delta
110)
Number of warp beams 1
Number of warp sheets 1 (2*)
Reed density (teeth/dm) 350 (500*)
Maximum number of frames (o- 16
heald)
Maximum rows of drop wires 6 (8*) (delta 110 only)
Number of drop wire paths 1 (delta 110 only)
Drawing-in element Hook
Yarn material Cotton & blends wool, silks, special
yarn

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WARPING DEPARTMENT

RAW MATERIAL

OPENING OF CARTONS

CREELING

DENTING

LOADING OF EMPTY BEAM

SETTING INFORMATION IN THE PANEL

TYING UP ON END ON BEAM

STARTING OF MACHINE

COMPLETION OF ONE BEAM ENDS ARE CUT

UNLOADING OF FULL BEAM

CREEL CHANGE

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Warping is the first step of fabric manufacturing process. After winding,
warping process is done for making a weaver’s beam. Warping is arranging
yarn threads in long parallel lengths of equal tension, onto a beam in
preparation for weaving.

During the warping process cones of yarn are placed onto a rack called a
creel. From this creel yarn passes through tension and spacing devices and
through a leasing reed which separates the yarn threads and keeps them in
the correct order before being wound onto a warping balloon. When the
correct amount of yarn has been added the warp is removed from the
balloon and transferred onto a warping beam ready for the weaving process.

IMPORTANCE OF WARPING

1) Construction of a beam of warp yarn

2) Construction of a parallel yarn sheet
3) Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place
4) Winding the pre - determined length of yarn
5) Combination of small packages
6) Accelerating the next process

TYPES OF WARPING PROCESS

HIGH SPEED WARPING

It is also called beam warping/direct warping. In high speed warping the yarn
is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once and
simple flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for
making fabric of single colour. Features of high speed warping are,

 It is used to make common fabric in large quantities

 It is used to produce weavers beam from single yarn
 The production is high
 Large amount of yarn is required to produce a weaver’s beam
 Sizing is done
 Simple flanged beam is used and drums are not required
In Alok Industries, there are ten BEN – DIRECT warping machines. The
width of the warp beam is 2200 mm. It is fixed. This is also called the
distance between two flanges. Creel capacity of seven BEN-DIRECT is
1088, two having 730, one having 530 creel capacity. Maximum speed of
BEN-DIRECT is 1200 meter per minute.
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SECTIONAL WARPING
Sectional warping is done for dyed yarns. In this process the yarns are
transferred from cones to a drum and from that to a beam. This is done as it
fulfils the requirements of large number of ends.

There is a reed present before the warping cylinder where the adjustment of
the section width done. The shape of the reed increases or decreases the
sectional width.

Specification of sectional warping machines in Alok Industries

1) There are 14 machines for warping.

2) Among these, 10 of them are India – based, the manufacturers being
Prashant Gamatex, 4 having 960 creel capacities and 6 having 672. Two
of them are Benninger Ben – Tronic having 720 creel capacities. One
Benninger Versomat machine has a creel capacity of 480 and one is
Prashant Gamatex MB3 Bromas.
3) These machines don't have any glass cover. The width of the warp beam
is not fixed.
4) These creels have ceramic guides. The arrangement of pins on the creel
is in the multiple of six in Ben Direct and five in Gamatex. It takes only 30
seconds for mending.
5) The minimum width of section that can be made on Versomat is 254mm.

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PLANNING OF PROGRAM

1) The designer sends a pattern chart, which contains total no of ends

required, colours and the whole pattern.
2) According, to that chart the creeling is done starting from back of left
hand side to the other end of the creel.

PROCEDURE OF WARPING DEPARTMENT

1) After the creeling all ends are drawn through the lease reed, section reed
and then to the drum.
2) According to the section width and space of one dent, no of ends per
dent is decided for the particular section.
3) No. of dents required = section width \ space of one dent
Ends\dent total number = total number of ends in a section \ number of
dents required
4) The next layer will be slightly displaced position. The traversing of drum
is done for this purpose.
5) After all the sections of a required length are wound on the drum,
beaming is done.
6) In beaming process, all the ends are drawn together onto the wrappers
beam.
7) Beaming speed is kept slow to avoid breakage.
8) Leasing stripes are inserted in between the sections to separate the
ends.

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SIZING DEPARTMENT

SIZE COOKING

CREELING

YARN FEEDING

SIZING (IN SHOW BOX)

DRYING

LEASING

COMBING

PRESS ROLLER

EMPTY BEAM FEEDING& M\C RUNNING

ENDS CUTTING

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Sizing is a process of applying the size paste to the warp sheet to increase
its strength and weavability so it can bare the stress occurred during the
weaving process.

It helps in reducing the warp breakages during the weaving process. It also
is used to combine the warp ends from number of warper’s beams to
produce a single weaver’s beam of desired ends.

Sizing is used for both dyed & undyed yarn.

SIZING MACHINES IN ALOK INDUSTRY

NUMBER OF MACHINES COMPANY NAME CREEL CAPACITY

1 Benninger 16 Beam + Beam to
Beam
3 Benninger 24 Beams
1 Benninger 28 Beams + 20 Beam
magazine
2 Benninger 28 Beams + 28 Beam
magazine
1 Karl Mayer Rotal – 20 Beams
Sucker
1 Benninger 1 Beam to Beam
1 Prashant 1 Beam to Beam
1 Karl Mayer Rotal – 1 Beam to Beam
Sucker

PROCEDURE & DIRECTION FOR THE SIZE PASTE PREPARATION

1) Mix water and size ingredient in appropriate ratio

2) Transfer the above mixture to the cold mixing chamber for 10 minutes
3) After mixing it properly transfer it to the
4) Cook it for a fix time at a fixed temperature cooker and pressure and then
transfer it to the storage tank
5) Also add the softeners and antistatic agents in the storage tank
6) Now we can take the required amount of size paste from the storage

SIZING INGREDIENTS
Adhesives - Modified starch (texoplast), fabric glue, thin volume starch,
potato starch, from corn, wheat, rice, etc. Carboxyl methyl cellulose (CMC),
poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA), polyester resin (acts as binder)

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Lubricants - Mineral waxes, oils, vegetable waxes and oils, animal fats.

Additives - Salicylic acid, zinc chloride, phenol, emulsifier, softeners,

polyethylene glycol.

SIZING MACHINE AND ATMOSPHERE OF THE SIZING DEPARTMENT

1) The sizing section of the weaving department has 8 sizing machines with
20 creels for the wrappers beam.
2) The warped beams are put on the creels and all the warp ends are
passed through various cylinders without any inter-yarn entanglement
and messing up of yarns.
3) They are passed into a bath of a water base sizing solution. The bath has
a temperature of 90odc which has 2 nip rollers and 2 dip rollers which
guide the yarn for proper sizing through proper bathing.
4) The yarns have a continuous movement through the solution as they
travel through
the mini drying cylinders which have a temperature of 100oc, then the
yarn have again continuous movement through the solution as they
drying cylinder, which have a temperature of 145 ̊C, 130 ̊C, 125 ̊C and
110 ̊C in their respective cylinders in the drying chambers.
5) Leasing region is the dry region from where the yarns get separated by
dividing rods to avoid yarn grouping which could create difficulties in
weaving.
6) Thus by the automatically monitored and controlled system, the yarns are
wound on the weaver's beam. These weavers beams are transferred to
the looms.

OBSERVATIONS OF SIZING MACHINE

1) With Sizing, strength-abrasion resistance-of the yarn will improve and the
hairiness of yarn will decrease.
2) The degree of improvement of strength depends on adhesion force
between fibre and size, size penetration as well as encapsulation of yarn.
3) Different types of water soluble polymers are used to protect yarn. Also
wax is added to reduce the abrasiveness of the warp yarns.
4) The type of yarn material (e.g. Cotton, polyester, linen), the thickness of
the yarn, and type of weaving machinery will determine the sizing recipe.
5) The sizing liquor is applied on warp yarn with a warp sizing machine.
6) After the weaving process the fabric is desized (washed).
7) Calculations:

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  Pick up % = {(weight of sized yarn-weight of unsized yarn/ weight
of unsized yarn]*100
 Unsized yarn weight = (number of ends/ (1693/ count))*(beam
length/sectional warping dyed beam]

8) Quality assurance in sizing

 Regular quality rounds are heald.

 Study of breakages, migration (depends on lease), viscosity and
stretch (mainly controlled in 4 wet zones)

PROCEDURE OF SIZING DEPARTMENT

1) Size is constantly supplied in saw boxes with the help of pipes to a

specific level of the boxes.
2) These pipes take the size from the size storage containers.
3) Passage of the warps from lower beams is arranged from under the Size
storage containers.
4) Immersion roller helps the yarns to immerse in the size paste. As the
name suggests,
guide rollers are arranged to guide the yarns for the proper passage.
5) Yarns pass through the squeeze rollers where they squeeze the excess
paste from the
yarn and proper penetration of size paste in the yarn takes place.
6) Yarns now pass onto the drying cylinders where drying of the yarns is
performed.
7) After the arrangement of the saw boxes, mini drying cylinders are kept.
8) They are coated with Teflon and set at the temperature of about 120°C.
9) The temperature of this cylinder is due to the constant supply of steam
inside the
cylinder.
10) Same is the concept of the drying cylinders of drying assembly but the
diameter of these cylinders is greater as that of the mini cylinder and
temperature maintained here is 140 - 145°C.
11) There is one more drying cylinder arrangement of four cylinders, where
the temperature maintained is of about 130 °C.
12) Warps now pass on to the waxing roller where a layer of wax is applied
on the threads.
13) This improves the abrasion resistance of the yarn and adds some
amount of lustre.

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14) Wax is stored in the wax box just before the waxing roller in the solid
form.
15) Just before this arrangement, a moisture sensor is fit which records the
moisture
content percentage in the threads.
16) Yarns now pass over and under the lease rods which prevents
entanglement of the yarns.
17) Also the number of lease rods is equal to the number of the beams.
18) A layer of threads are taken from each beam and separated using plastic
rods.
19) These plastic rods are later removed and replaced by lease rods. Yarns
are now combed by the comber.
20) The comber used is of zigzag type. Here individualization of yarns takes
place. Sticky ends or cross ends are removed.
21) These combed yarns pass on the drag roller which helps in holding the
yarns firmly with tension.
22) Press roller bellow the wrapper's beam ensures proper winding of the
yarns on the roller, i.e. loose winding is prevented.
23) Drop pins separate the threads for selvedge.
24) Size paste is the mixture of starch, softener and softening agent. Also
necessary
softeners are added during storage of sizing.
25) Mixture depends on the number of ends and count. IMS standards and
QA approved standards are considered.

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DESIGN DEPARTMENT
The objective of this department is to prepare pattern for the weaving process
to achieve the desired effect and look on the fabric as per buyer’s
specification.

The department receives the specification from PPC department after

sampling is done and samples are sent for approval. Then approved design
goes for further production.

PROCEDURE FOLLOWED BY DESIGN DEPARTMENT

1) Design the product

2) Analysis and feasibility of the product
3) Preparation of bill of materials required for preparing the product
4) Sample of fabric is issued from the head office as per customer’s
requirement
5) Analysis of the sample is done such as it EPI, PPI are calculated and type
of weave determined
6) The detailing of the Draft, Peg plan and design are created in
computerized form by using Textronics software
7) Then the report along with sample is sent to Quality Assurance (QA) for
further analysis
8) Specification sheet is then prepared by the Design department after
getting report from the QA department which has details such as warp,
weft, reel count, picks, weave, reed space, number of shaft, count, fabric
width etc.
9) Handloom sample along with drawing plan is prepared, which is then sent
to the head office for approval by customer and by sales department.
10) After approval the sample is sent to the PPC department along with order
details and the PPC department does further procedures for sizing and
weaving.
11) The sample of fabric is again sent to design department for final approval.

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WEAVING DEPARTMENT

UNITS GET THE ORDER FROM THE PPC

DEPARTMENT

P.P.C GIVES THE PLAN OF THE M/C WHICH IS

TO BE USED FOR MAKING THAT PARTICULAR
ORDER

ASK FOR THE RAW MATERIAL DEPT FOR RAW

MATERIAL IN FORM OF WEFT CONES.

ASK THE WARPING/SIZING DEPARTMENT TO

SEND REQUIRED QUALITY OF WARP BEAMS

12-15 INCHES OF FABRIC IS MADE FOR

CHECKING AND IS SEND FOR Q.A

IF IT IS TO BE DYED OR IT IS DESIGN FABRIC

THEN IT IS SEND TO DESIGN DEPARTMENT FOR
APPROVAL.

AFTER THE APPROVAL IS GIVEN THEN THE

PRODUCTION STARTS

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Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns
or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The
longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft
or filling.

Loom is a mechanical device which is used to produce woven fabric by the

insertion of warp and weft yarn. In weaving technology loom is the principal
mechanical device for weaving.

Various designs of fabric are produced by changing the machine setting.

TYPES OF LOOMS AT ALOK INDUSTRY

 ON THE BASIS OF WEFT INSERTION MECHANISM,

1. Air jet loom

2. Rapier loom

AIR JET LOOM

In the air jet loom, a jet of air is projected across the shed forcefully, that
takes the filling yarn to the other side i.e. a jet of air is used to propel the weft
yarn through the shed at speeds of up to 600 ppm.

The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest
weft insertion performance and are considered as the most productive in the
manufacturing of light to medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton
and certain man-made fibres. Air-jet looms are capable of producing
standard household and apparel fabrics for items such as shirts, denim,
sheets, towels, and sports apparel, as well as industrial products such as
printed circuit board cloths.

RAPIER LOOM

Rapier loom is a shuttle less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried
through the shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like
carriers called rapiers. A stationary package of yarn is used to supply the
weft yarns in the rapier machine. One end of a rapier, a rod or steel tape,
carries the weft yarn. The other end of the rapier is connected to the control
system .The rapier moves across the width of the fabric, carrying the weft
yarn across through the shed to the opposite side. The rapier is then
retracted, leaving the new filling in place. Rapier machines weave more
rapidly than most shuttle machines. An important advantage of rapier
machines is their flexibility, which permits the laying of picks of different

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colours. They also weave yarns of any type of fibre and can weave fabrics up
to 110 inches in width without modification.

COMPARISON BETWEEN RAPIER AND AIR JET LOOM

Features Rapier Loom Air Jet Loom

Pick Insertion Single/Multiple Single/Multiple

Colour combination 8 colour threads 4 colour threads

RPM 220 rpm 3 times more than

rapier

Efficiency 95% 96%

RAPIER LOOM AIR JET LOOM

RAPIER LOOM

 ON THE BASIS OF SHEDDING,

The rapier loom has the flexibility and can easily add and attach any of the
shedding motions available in the market including:

1. Dobby

2. Jacquard

3. Cam Shedding

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DOBBY LOOM

These are more complicated than Cam systems but have higher initial and
maintenance costs. Dobby looms have the capability of producing more
complicated and sophisticated weaves. Due to their complexity, dobby
mechanisms are more liable to produce more fabric faults than Cam
systems. Specifications of dobby looms are,

 No. of picks/repeat virtually no limit, around 5000 picks/repeat

 No. of heald frames-built up to control 20-28shafts
The dobby mechanisms consist of three principal operations:

 The drive mechanism

 The selection mechanism

 The lifting mechanism

There are two types of dobby namely single lift and double lift dobbies.
1) Single Lift Dobbies
In single lift dobbies, the shed is closed after every weft insertion and the
pick is beaten up at the closed shed (centre closed shed). The speed of
single lift dobbies is limited to 160-190 rpm. All system elements perform
their function once every weaving cycle to open a shed and then they return
to their original positions before a new cycle.
2) Double Lift Dobbies
All new type dobbies are double lift in their operation. Its cycle occupies two
picks. The system elements operate once every two weaving cycles but the
shed opening is achieved every pick occurring at half time loom speed. In
dobby mechanisms open shed is produced, and unnecessary and wasted
movements are eliminated. These are suitable for high speed operations

DOBBY LOOM

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JACQUARD LOOMS

Jacquard shedding mechanisms are capable of producing large and intricate

weave designs that are beyond the scope of dobby shedding mechanisms.
In jacquard weaving, it is possible to control every warp yarn individually.
Many specialized types of jacquard machine have been developed for
weaving particular kinds of fabric, such as terry towels, damasks, and
carpets. Most of the rest are general purpose types that are comparatively
easy to classify. The most elaborate designs (reproduction of freely drawn
shapes, i.e. floral designs) are woven on an intricately constructed loom
called the Jacquard loom, and the weave of these fabrics is called the
jacquard weave.

For designs that require the reproduction of freely drawn shapes, it is usually
necessary for each end of the repeat to be separately controlled.

Specifications of jacquard looms are,

 Their patterning possibilities virtually unlimited.

 No. of picks/repeat virtually no limit to the number of picks/repeat (i.e.

5000 picks or more).

 The length of the repeat is limited only by the cost and inconvenience of
a very long pattern chain.

 No. of heald frames (or no. of ends/repeat).

Jacquard machines are made in a wide variety of sizes to control from 100 to
2000 or more ends per repeat. In conventional jacquard machine field, the
spectrum now ranges from 192 through 3200 to 6144 hooks. When a higher
no. of independent lift is required two or three jacquard machine is placed
side to side.

Principal motion in the Jacquard shedding:

 Drive: The mechanism that links the engine to the weaving machine
Knives ( set of knives)

 Selection: Needles, springs, card cylinder, and endless paper pattern

 Lifting: Hooks, neck-cords, harness cords, mails, and weights (spring or

elastomer)

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A Jacquard machine may be divided into three main parts:

 Jacquard head /engine: Knives, hooks, needles, springs, and card

cylinder, endless paper pattern

 Harnesses: Neck-cords, harness cords, mails, and weights (spring or

elastomer)

 Hooks: The mechanism that links the engine to the weaving machine.
The jacquard m/c is assumed to have 400 hooks. Eight rows of fifty
hooks (9 X 50). We suppose there are four repeats of 400 ends,
making totally 1600 ends.

JACQUARD LOOMS

CAM LOOMS

Features of cam looms are,

 Cam looms have a design capability of producing simple weaves

 Number of Picks/Repeat - limited to 8-10picks/repeat

 Number of heald frames-limited to 8, 10-12ends/repeat

Advantages of Cam Looms are,

 Simple.

 Inexpensive with regard to both initial cost and maintenance

 Very less likely to cause defects in fabric

 Impose no limitation on the speed of the loom

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Disadvantages of Cam Looms are,

 Restricted design possibilities

 Inconvenient for frequent pattern changes

 To change the gearing of the cam for a different no. of picks /repeat.

MICROPROCESSOR CONTROLLER

The microprocessor is one of the most powerful control systems offered

today for crank-type rapier looms. The system can be programmed to output
any kinds of pick programs. The standard functions include:

 Constant monitoring of weft and warp yarn for breakages Cloth Length
Counter

 Pick-programming

 Weft-Controller

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DIFFERENT WEAVING UNIT OF ALOK WITH THE TYPE OF LOOMS

UNIT LOOM TYPE DRIVE TOTAL

SAMPLING Optimax Rapier Dobby 8

Picanol Airjet Dobby 4

SAMPLING Total 12

UNIT I Picanol Airjet 10 Shaft 24

Cam 56

Total 80

UNIT II Picanol Airjet 10 shaft 24

cam 56

Total 80

UNIT III Omni plus Rapier Jacquard 12

Sulzer rapier Jacquard 16

Toyota Airjet Cam 52

Total 80

Gammex Rapier Dobby 40

UNIT IV Picanol Airjet Dobby 32

Sulzer Rapier Dobby 30

Total 102

UNIT V Picanol Airjet 10 Shaft 24

Cam 72

Dobby 48

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Total 144

UNIT VI Picanol Airjet Cam 152

Dobby 76

Toyota Airjet Cam 50

Dobby 26

Total 304

UNIT VII Picanol Airjet Cam 12

Toyota Airjet Dobby 76

Total 190

UNIT VIII Toyota Airjet Cam 12

Vamatex Rapier Dobby 76

Total 88

Picanol Airjet 10 Shaft 64

Dobby 40

Toyota Airjet Cam 48

UNIT IXA Dobby 12

Tsudakoma Airjet 10 shaft 16

Total 180

UNIT IXB Toyota Airjet Batching 84

Total 84

UNIT IXC Toyota Airjet Cam 72

Dobby 38

Total 110

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UNIT IXD Optimax Rapier Dobby 110

Total 110

UNIT IXE Picanol Airjet Cam 110

Total 110

UNIT IXF Toyota Airjet Cam 200

Total 200

Dadra Projectile Sulzer 72

Total 72

Grand Total 1946

PROCEDURE FOLLOWED IN THE WEAVING DEPARTMENT OF ALOK

1) The units get the order from the PPC department as the order of the
client.

2) It also gives the delivery date promised to the client and the unit to
perform accordingly.

3) P.P.C gives the plan of the m/c which is to be used for making that
particular order, so that the order is completed in time.

4) The unit then intimates the raw material department about the order and
ask for the raw material in form of weft cones.

5) It also asks the warping/sizing department to send required quality of warp

beams of the order.

6) Then 12-15 inches of fabric is made for checking and is send for Q.A of
every beam yarn. If it is to be dyed or it is design fabric then it is send to
design department for approval.

7) If any problem arises then the rectification is done, 50 m of cloth is made

and again send for evaluation this is called the first piece.

8) After the approval is given then the production starts.

9) The design of the weave and all the order details are fed into the
computer system of the loom.

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INSPECTION & FOLDING DEPARTMENT
Inspection & folding is the second last stage of the process. Before packing
and dispatch of the formed product it is to check the formed product for
defects right before dispatching i.e. Sending on its way to the customer. As it
assures the quality maintained and secures the position in the market.

Grey fabric inspection

For inspection samples (25 cm) is prepared and then send to designing and
inspection departments respectively.

All fabric grading procedure is followed by four point American systems

4 - Point count procedure:

 weft wise

 warp wise

 partial defect

All colour foreign matter should be removed

Damage length Point count

0.1” to 3” 01

3” to 6” 02

6” to 9” 03

9” and above 04

1/25th of the length 04

=<5mm 02

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GREY FABRIC GRADING

The following system is adopted for grading & packing of grey fabric in the
company.

Inspection method:-the 100% cloth will be inspected as per four point

American systems on inspection machine at the speed of 16 to 18
metres/min.

INSTRUMENTS USED

 Pick glass

 Cutter

 Comb: for mending defects

FABRIC GRADATION

Marketing/grade Pts./100 sq mtr

“a” 15 points

“b” 22 points

“c” 31.25 points

“d”(cut pieces) No bar

“e”(cut pieces) No bar

“f” grade All continuous defect

“g” grade 47 points

Note: - Grade a and b are international grades. Also followed all over India
Grade c to g are grades by Alok.

FORMULA

Points per 100 square metres = (total points x 39.37 x 100) / (width/total
Mtrs)

FORMULA

Step1- width/39.37- width in metres

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Step2- points/100 sq. Metres - total points/total metres/width

WEAVING RELATED DAMAGES

1) Thick & thin

2) Ball formation

3) Double end

4) Black stain

5) Double pick

6) Broken end

7) Let off mark

8) Broken pick

9) Wrong denting

10) Snarling

11) Wrong drawing

12) Loose pick

13) Floating

14) Temple mark

PROCEDURE FOLLOWED BY INSPECTION AND FOLDING

DEPARTMENT

1) There are 35 inspection machines. Out of which 20 are of narrow width &
15 are of wider width

2) The manufacturer of the inspection machines is d.s topiwala.

3) The inspection of the fabric i.e. Defect finding is done manually.

4) Hence an operator is required to be attentive on the machine constantly.

5) The fabric runs down from above made arrangement in the machine.
There is a slope on which the fabric glides downwards, on that slope a

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 light source is fit, so that the operator standing on the opposite side can
detect a defect if any easily.

6) Light intensity is 700 lux.

FOLDING & PACKING DEPARTMENT

There are 3 packing machines shrink wrap machine from Taiwan. In this
machine after the fabric roller arrives from inspection machines, it is covered
with a plastic bag and from both sides of the roller suction is applied so that
the plastic bag sticks to the roller,

There are two types of packing:

1) LDP is for domestic deliveries

2) HDP is for international deliveries.

Bulk packaging is also there.

There are 2 tester machines from Italy.

1. These are automatic machines

2. In tester machine 4 cameras are fit

3. The cameras are 7,000 mega pixels.

4. The homes and furnishing fabrics inspection is done on this machine.

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After inspection a sticker of Alok is stuck to the roller, it contains details like:-

1. Bale no.

2. Sort no.

3. Pieces

4. Meters

5. Gross weight

DISPATCH DEPARTMENT
There are 2 types of dispatch,

1) Domestic order

2) Export

DOMESTIC ORDER (STOP)

 STPO (stop transfer purchase order). It is normal packaging for Alok to

Alok transfer within the industry

GREY SCALE/EXPORT/SALES ORDER

 As the name suggests these products are the ones which are sent
overseas to other countries or different industries.

 The product is dispatched in containers of specific sizes.

 The H.O arranges for the containers.

 A 40 feet container can carry 50,000 metre fabrics.

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 A 20 feet container can carry 25,000 metre fabrics.

PROCEDURE FOLLOWED BY DISPATCH DEPARTMENT

The procedure for both STPO and EXPORT is same:

Step 1: client base D.O. (dispatch order) comes from head office.

Step 2: Through the PPC department and it will go to dispatch department

for export on delivery date.

In D.O some following points are mention:

 Date

 Part & address.

 S.O (sales order)

 Fabric quality.

 Payment expected date.

 Remarks

 Dispatch details (address) etc.

The order is then send to godowns.

TRANSPORTATION PROCEDURE

For security purposes record of dispatch and 3 details are required:- gate
pass, challah, delivery sheet.

 Invoice copies are prepared like

 Transport copy

 Buyer copy

 Office copy

 For transport copy packaging list is there

 Red copy: transport

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 Yellow copy: office

 White copy: buyer

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
Maintenance may be defined as the chronological activities or as the
process of systematic activities done for keeping the m\c or equipment’s at
the heat level for well run or its proper services.

AIMS

 To maintain m\c equipment at optimum operation speed & production

efficiency

 To unsure best possible level of quality of product.

 To minimize the idle time resulting from the machinery break down.

 To reduce the cost.

There are 2 types of maintenance

1. Preventive maintenance

2. Breakdown maintenance

Maintenance schedule: The regular checking of machine at regular interval

of time in order to prevent it from any breakdown and also for long lasting life

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of machine parts. Maintenance in charge makes a schedule according to
which maintenance is done.

PROCEDURE FOLLOWED BY MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

In the industry each department has 6 months preventive maintenance,

these department covers over all machinery and equipment. Some works are
done at 3 months preventive maintenance, then monthly preventive
maintenance and daily preventive maintenance schedule is conducted for
some of the machine parts.

 For effective maintenance a no. of pre-requirement site have to met

 There must be a well-defined organizational structure to & implement the

program.

 Proper planning, scheduling & controlling of maintenance must be

designed.

 An appropriate flow of information & data on maintenance must be

devised.

 Timely supply of the spare parts & also other materials needed must be
ensured.

UTILITY DEPARTMENT
OBJECTIVE

The main objective of this department is to provide services to the production

department.

The following factors are required by the loom for producing fabrics

 Power

 Air

 Working condition

Utility department deals with two categories

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 UTILITY

MECHANICAL ELECTRICAL

MECHANICAL UTILITY

Mechanical utility is to maintain the loom condition, machinery and other

mechanism at proper working condition.

WORKING

This department deals with the mechanical part of loom. They maintain the
loom by checking the proper functioning of them to avoid any hindrance in
the weaving process and ultimately in the process of production. Servicing of
each loom is done strictly at least once in the time interval of 6 months. Each
weaving unit has one utility department for the proper functioning of each
looms in each weaving unit.

ELECTRICAL UTILITY

Electrical Utility is to solve the electricity related problems and requirements.

WORKING

There are 1946 looms in total for which they have to serve electricity. Out of
which there are

 718 normal width of air jet loom

 902 wider width of air jet loom

 255 normal width of rapier loom

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DIVISION

The unit is divided into two parts to make the work more efficient and easy.

PHASE – 1

In this phase there are 890 looms, 4 Atlas compressors having capacity 9200
cubic feet per minute of each. In case of emergency there is an emergency
atlas compressor having capacity of 4000 cfm. So the total production is
40800 cfm. But the requirement is nearly 30000 cfm.

PHASE – 2

There are 985 looms, 4 Atlas compressors having 9200 cfm and two
emergency compressors in which one is Samsung and another is of Atlas
having capacity of 12000 cfm and 5000 cfm respectively. Thus the total
production from all the compressors is 53000 cfm but the requirement is
around 40000 cfm.

Basically for the weaving process, the electricity requirement is mainly for
five purposes

 Loom power (25% energy consumption)

 Compression air (45% energy consumption)

 Humidity (20% energy consumption)

 Temperature control (5% energy consumption)

 Weaving preparatory and lighting (5% energy consumption)

HUMIDITY COMPRESSED AIR AND SAFETY

HUMIDITY

Humidity is the water / moisture present in the air. It is express as a

percentage of water molecules present in a given unique area.

WHY DO WE NEED HUMIDITY?

 Alok industry is running maximum cotton yarn in loom shed

 Humidity affects the working of cotton yarn

 At 80% of RH the tensile strength of cotton is maximum

 For controlling humidity we need Humidity plant

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HUMIDITY PLANT

Here we control the moisture content in the air. It is almost similar to the air
conditioner in offices/homes. The only difference is that dry air is circulated in
office/home whereas in humidity plant it is moist air.

Humidity plant consist of

1. Fresh air fan

2. Return air fan

3. Air filter

4. Water sprinkler

5. Eliminator trays

6. Heater

7. Chillier

8. Cooling tower

1. Fresh air fan: - To supply fresh conditioned air in the department

2. Return air fan: - To take back the air from department through the slits
below the looms.

3. Air filter: - To clean the air received by return air fan and feed it to supply
fan through water sprinklers.

4. Water sprinkler: - To add water either cold or chilled in the air.

5. Eliminator trays: - To remove excess water from the air.

6. Heater/Chillier/Cooler:- Used for maintaining the temperature of water.

LUWA PLANT

It has two plants together

1. On Loom
2. In weave room.

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Here we get two different R.H. in the department,
I. On loom near warp stop motion and shedding we can get 80% RH and
2. In weave room i.e. in beam alley and weaver alley we can get 65 % RH.
This modification can save humidification cost and also gives comfort to the
operator.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. We must take care that plastic bags, empty cones and plastic rings do not
get into the slits as thus get stuck in the filter

2. Doors of the plant should be kept closed to avoid wastage of humid air.

AIR COMPRESSOR

Air jet machines require compressed air for weft insertion. Compressed air is
the costliest medium of weft insertion. Cost of 1 cubic feet of air per minute is
50 paise. One loom of 340 cm. width consumes app 45 to 50 cfm at 550 rpm
and 190 cm width looms consumes 25 to 35 cfm at 750 rpm

When we feed data in the computer we must check all dimensions such as
width of fabric, profile clearance, weft arrival time properly. Similarly nozzles
distance must be entered properly, so that we can weave the cloth with
minimum air pressure. All the valves which are not used for weaving should
be closed and broken pipes must be replaced immediately. Always have a
practice of checking the air leakage at the time of common holiday / power
failure. During this period small leakages can be detected effectively and
corrective measures taken.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. Blowing air on the body is very risky

2. Be careful at the time of releasing valve of the hose pipe

3. Before opening the valve, hold the loose end of the air pipe tightly

4. Never use compressed air on face or on sensitive parts of your body. It

can cause a lot of harm / injury.

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CONCLUSION
Internship at Alok industry was an enlightening experience. From first to last
day we have learned a lot of things. Our internship schedule was very much
enjoyable. Alok helped us in developing different perception and had given
more technical knowledge about each and every process involved in
production and how industry work efficiently.

It was amazing to practically step into the field for the first time and
understanding how thing works. The beauty of whole processes was to see
all the lessons of NIFT come to life in the industry.

In this internship, we have learnt weaving and explored all the processes
running in the weaving department in this time period. At the end of the
internship we come to know about weaving department and how it works.
We learnt manufacturing and planning process of the department.

Under this internship schedule, all the qualified appointed people helped and
guided us in understanding and learning different aspects of the industry.

In weaving division, we learned processes of the PPC department, QA

department, raw material department, warping department, sizing
department, auto drawing department, production department, inspection
and folding department, and also utility and maintenance department.

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REFERENCES

 www.alokind.com
 http://bseindia.com/bseplus/AnnualReport/521070/5210700913.pdf
 www.picanol.be
 www.fibretofabric.com
 www.expresstextile.com
 The reference documents provided to us by the industry and the annual
reports were also of great help to us. The workers of the industry also
provided a lot of relevant information.

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