WORLD RENOWNED MOUNTAINEER
MARTIN MORAN
By C S Pandey
It is with a sense of deep
shock that we received
the news that Martin
Moran has died whilst
climbing Kumaon region
of Indian Himalaya along
with 7 other climbers.
Born on 19th February,
1955, Martin grew up in
North Tyneside. He met
his future wife Joy when
they were both 18. He
took a degree in
Geography at Cambridge
University and later
qualified as a Chartered
Accountant in Sheffield. During the winter of 1984/85 he completed all of
the Munros in a single round. In 1985 Martin qualified as a British
Mountain Guide and he and Joy started a mountaineering instruction
and guiding business based in Lochcarron in the NW Highlands of
Scotland. Martin ran summer Alpine mountaineering courses based in
Argentière, France and then in Evolène, Switzerland for 20 years.
I first came in contact with Martin during Year 1990 for organizing his
expedition to Indian Himalaya our friendship continued for almost 30
years until this news of him with other seven mountaineers gone
missing came to me during last week of May 2019 which was
unbelievable because he was always thinking of safety first while on
outdoor activities. In Year 1991, Martin started planning to take his
commercial trips mountaineering expeditions to the Indian Himalaya
and I was associated with him in this mission as his ground handling
agent in India. After more than 40 successful commercial (often
pioneering) expeditions the company Moran Mountain is known as one
of Britain’s most experienced mountain adventure companies. Martin, a
British and IFMGA Mountain Guide, had been leading an expedition to
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climb Nanda Devi East along with seven other climbers and were
acclimatizing on an adjacent un-named peak (6477m) where they were
reported missing during last week of May.
As a friend, guide, mountaineer, writer, Martin was a long-standing
trustworthy friend and ambassador for me and my organisation. He was
also an inspiration to many and his talent as a climber was
unquestionable, having pioneered numerous routes in the Himalaya as
foreign commercial mountaineering and trekking group.
But it was the sheer breadth of his achievements in the mountains that
stood Martin apart and made him one of the most influential
mountaineers of the world. Martin’s team were engaged in the type of
adventurous, exploratory mountaineering that he had built a reputation
for over three decades as a mountain guide and safe climber and team
leader. He was a man whose reputation for getting the most out of both
clients and conditions was the stuff of legend. He was not after a
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leisurely breakfast but instead dawn-till-dusk adventures making the
most of the big mountaineering challenges. This same spirit had
previously gained Moran Mountain to continue to attract the clients for
trips to India. Martin’s enthusiasm for all things climbing went far
beyond his work as a guide. It was his desire for exploration which gave
the biggest rewards.
He was an acknowledged authority on the mountains of Northern India,
leading exploratory climbing trips to the area for both work and
pleasure, and making notable first ascents along the way. As in all
walks of life, it is not ability or drive but character that sets someone out
as a good companion in the mountains. Martin’s wry smile, dry humour,
kindness and encouragement will be missed by friends, colleagues,
climbing partners and clients alike.
According to British Mountain Association, Martin went through the
very rigorous process of becoming an IFMGA Mountain Guide, an
international qualification recognized across the world and known by all
to represent the highest standards of competence and professionalism.
He was the very embodiment of a British and International Mountain
Guide, highly respected and a consummate professional.
In 2009 he attempted Nanda Devi East with clients and returned to try a
new route on the same mountain in 2015 (reaching 6,865m on the
unclimbed North East Ridge). Highlights in India included the first
ascents of the South Face of Nanda Kot, 6,861m in 1995 and the West
Ridge of Nilkanth, 6,596m in 2000, along with a dozen other pioneering
ascents. He also led trips to Kamet and Trisul etc., also in the
Uttarakhand region. None of us would have thought in our dreams that
such mishappening will took place especially with THE MOUNTAINEER
MARTIN MORAN.
He was one of the best mountaineer of this world and my 30 year old
best friend too. Our friendship was not limited till business. My days are
now spent remembering my days spent with Martin in mountain for
many years. I do not find any words to explain my feelings. While
organizing his trips to India, he asked me staff who will be appointed for
his expeditions & trek. Also while in India, he shared lots of stories
about his wife Joy & children Alex & Hazel.
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He was very emotionally attached with all his staff on his trips and bond
which was formed between my staff and Martin is unexplainable. He
was very careful with safety of staff along with team members while on
the mountains. Being an extensive adventurer, I do understand the level
of pain and agony caused to all families who have lost their near and
dear ones because of this horrifying incident happened on the mountain
on which nobody has any control and only Nature God knows what
happened with them that took this huge toll on all families. They all were
strong climbers.
Martin, you will always remain in my heart as a sole friend whom with I
used to share the same frequency of thinking and that made possible to
work to continue 30 years of friendship in promotion adventure sports
in Indian Himalaya.
