This is a more detailed AR15/M16 to AR18/180 magazine
conversion process to replace the one you have put at the
bottom of the "PARTS" page. (Thank you by the way) This
version is more detailed and will allow fellow 180's to do
the conversion easier. Please replace the one on the board with
this.
(Thanks again)....
To convert AR15/M16 magazines to fit the AR18/180
rifle you will need the following; Dremel tool with fiber-type
cutting wheel, painters-type masking tape, #2 pencil, small
hammer or similar tool, flat head screwdriver, adjustable pliers,
safety glasses, and of course the AR18/180 and AR15/M16
magazines. You will want to wear down the cutting
wheel to 1/2-inch diameter first. This can be done by turning it on
high speed and grinding it down against a hard surface like stone
or brick. Use light pressure so the wheel does not break. Once it
has worn down to 1/2 inch or so check to be sure it is completely
round.
The 1/2-inch wheel will give you the best results. First use a
magazine that is old and worn that you would not miss too much
if you didn't get this right your first attempt. Place a strip of
masking tape on the mag at the area the magazine catch will
go. With the bolt closed, hold the magazine catch in, insert the
magazine till you feel the follower connect with the bolt carrier
and the lips at the top of the mag. Holding this in place, release
the magazine catch and lightly tap on the foreword end with the
hammer. Push the mag catch in again and remove the magazine.
You will see an indention left by the magazine catch on the tape.
With the pencil draw a line between the first two ribs in
the mag at the indentation. Use the top of the mag to get your
line level and straight.
Now you are ready to cut. Take the Dremel with the 1/2-inch
wheel and in the direction of the line cut SLIGHTLY into it going
through the tape but not through the metal. Remove tape. Use
the top of the magazine as a guide and work a small slit about
the width of the cutting wheel into the side of the mag going all
the way through from rib to rib. Next, insert the mag into the
rifle. You will feel one of two things. If the mag 'clicks'
in without force, widen the slit from the bottom. This can be
done by inserting the cutting wheel into the slit and slowly
working it back and forth using the surface instead of the side to
grind it down. Be careful not to widen it too much. The AR18/180
is designed for everything to fit loosely but too loose will cause
functioning problems. The width of the finished slit is almost the
width of two cutting wheels so have a light hand.
If the magazine requires pressure before it 'clicks' you will need
to widen from the TOP of your slit. The magazine should now fit.
Once the mag is fitted to the rifle another slight modification
should be done to allow flawless performance. The AR15/M16
magazine catches may have to be flattened slightly in order to let
the magazine drop freely from the AR18/180. If the mags are
govt. issue you will have to do this otherwise you will be pulling
them out by hand. This is done with the flathead screwdriver and
pliers. Open the pliers till they are about the same width as the
magazine. Place the screwdriver flat against the AR15/M16 mag
catch from the top side. With one jaw end of the pliers on the
screwdriver head and the other on the back side
of the magazine body (place near the edge and it is
recommended that you cover that point of the mag with tape to
avoid scratching the finish) squeeze lightly flattening the catch
slightly. Start at the top and work your way down. Don’t crush or
dent it, all you want to do is flatten it slightly. All you really need
to flatten is about 1mm worth of the catch. If you have done this
correctly the original catch should be about 1mm closer to and
even with the mag body. It should also still work in AR15/M16
rifles like Daewoo’s, FNC’s.
PART TWO
MESSAGE: Webmaster, add this to my magazine conversion
directions please. In my haste to get the instructions on
converting cheaper govt. mags to work in AR18/180's I left out
one important step. Perhaps it was the approaching
thunderstorm or the lack of caffine either way I left out an
important step. This is easy and the tools you need you should
already have (Dremel with fiber-type cutting wheel) if you have
done the conversion up to here. This involves modifying the
follower to allow all 20, 30, or 40 rounds to feed, particularly the
last round. (I overlooked this probably because I have
modified the bolt hold device on my 180 to function with the
previously mentioned process alone.)
Anyway, this step takes about 5 minutes and once
again I recommend using a cheap magazine to practice on first.
Now, remove the floorplate of the magazine and remove the
spring and follower. On the back end of the follower you will
notice the block that protrudes through the back of the
magazine body. This is what pushes the bolt device into the
path of the bolt on AR-15 type rifles. For it to function properly in
AR18/180's this must be cut down. It is best if you do this after
"slitting" the magazine body as the plastic followers may gum up
the cutting wheel and the metal ones may damage the wheel by
shrinking it further. You may just want to use a new wheel.
Measure 3mm (around 5/16") down from the top of the
bolt catch block and mark it with a pencil. Draw a verticle line
even with the top.
I recommend useing a good pair of gloves for protection in case
the wheel jumps and also if you are doing this to a metal follower
as they tend to heat up badly. Also, you may want to use safety
glasses about now. Hold firmly and cut along your line. You will
want to cut down to the level even with the sides of the follower
but not into it. After you have successfully done this cut from the
top, level with the sides, into your mark. Basically you want to
remove 3mm off the top of the follower and take that chunk out.
Our AR18/180's are designed around loose tolerances so this
doesn't have to be perfect or pretty, only functional, like the rifle
itself. On your practice magazine try a 2mm cut and see if it
works. It is better to cut too little than too much. If it still snags
on the last round cut another 1mm off. Don't practice this with
live ammo but if you dont have a blank or a dummy round then
please be carefull. Always point the muzzle in a safe direction.
Method #2
This method comes from [email protected] Instead of using
masking tape on the mag, and then hitting the mag release to
mark the indent......INSTEAD use the liquid "White Out"
correction fluid. With the mag out of the weapon, brush on some
of this liquid on the inside of the mag catch. Insert the mag
into the weapon while pushing down on the mag release. Allow
the mag release to fall on the mag when the mag is properly
inserted, all the way in. You now have a marking exactly on the
mag, in the same contour as the mag catch.
2.Buy the Israeli AR15 "Orlite" 30 round mag for conversion. A
little more expensive than old AR15 metal mags, but it has several
advantages:
A.It's easier to mill the slot in plastic than in metal. NOTE: take a
LITTLE off at a time! You can always take a little more, and a
little more, and a little more off, but you can't put it back once
it's gone!
B.The orlite mag fits in the AR180 mag well a little better AND,
most importantly..............
C.Compare the feed lips of 20 round METAL AR15 mag to a 30
round METAL AR15 mag. The 20 round mags have FULL LENGTH
lips, while 30 rounder feed lips only go half the length of the
mag. Israeli 30 round Orlite mage are the only 30 round mag with
FULL LENGTH lips. It has been my experience that the
full length lip is the better design, especially so in the AR180, as it
eliminates many of the failures to feed.
John - Orlites are getting a little harder to find, but you might try
the Pmag by Magpul (usually find them for around $12-14
http://www.44mag.com/category/pmag_magazines - free
shipping) or the Lancer L5 mags. They are both plastic. I have
used the Pmags in my other AR (Bushmaster AR-15) and like
them a lot, but I have not yet tried to modify on for the AR-180.
