2018 Home Laundering

Supplement
Table of Contents
Introduction
Test Method 88B, Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering
Test Method 88C, Retention of Creases in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering
Test Method 124, Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering
Test Method 135, Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
Test Method 143, Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Home Laundering
Test Method 150, Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering
Laboratory Procedure 1, Home Laundering: Machine Washing
Laboratory Procedure 2, Home Laundering: Hand Washing
Introduction
This supplement includes eight official AATCC standards approved since publication of
the 2018 AATCC Technical Manual. They are available ONLY as downloadable PDFs
for 2018. The 2018 Home Laundering Supplement will be discontinued at the end of
2018 and all standards contained herein will appear in the 2019 AATCC Technical
Manual.
The supplement offers convenience and cost savings for individuals or companies
desiring to purchase all eight documents before they appear in the 2019 AATCC
Technical Manual.

Background
For many years, laundering conditions and washing machine specifications were
included in various AATCC Test Methods. They were updated by the test method
committees as needed.
In 1984, machine parameters were moved to AATCC Monograph 6, Standardization of
Home Laundry Test Conditions and maintained by AATCC Research Committee RA88,
Home Laundering Technology.
From 1984 to 2017, the Monograph expanded to include parameters for a wide range of
home washing machines. There was no clear correlation among these machines. As
technology changed, it became difficult for labs to obtain washers meeting the published
specifications.
In January 2018, several research committees approved revised test methods with
aligned, standard laundering conditions. These conditions will be applied to additional
methods over the following months and are not expected to change for some time.
Also in January 2018, two new Laboratory Procedures were published with standard
and alternate laundering conditions. LP1 and LP2 are complete laundering protocols
that may be used in coordination with appearance evaluation, flammability preparation,
or other procedures. LP1 replaces M6, but provides much more than machine
parameter tables. LP2 replaces M5 with a more complete hand laundering procedure.
Both laundering procedures may be used in combination with a wide range of
treatments or evaluations (e.g., appearance evaluation, preparation for flammability
testing, durability).

Laundering Equipment
Washing machines and tumble dryers reported by the manufacturers to meet the
parameters in LP1 are listed at www.aatcc.org/test/washers. AATCC does not verify the
specification of washing machines or dryers and cannot provide information on
obtaining these machines.
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
AATCC standard for temporary storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or
printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic file may not be
distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be
distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Test Method 88B-2018

Seam Smoothness in Fabrics after Home Laundering

Developed in 1962 by AATCC Commit- Results are reported as a seam smooth- 5. Uses and Limitations
tee RA61; reaffirmed 1969, 1973; edito- ness (SS) grade of 1 to 5, with 1 repre-
rially revised 1974, 1983, 1985, 1986, senting the least smoothness (most 5.1 This test method is designed to be
1991, 1997, 2004, 2005, 2008, 2012, puckering) and 5 representing most used only for evaluating the appearance
2016; editorially revised and reaffirmed smoothness. of washable seamed fabrics after home
1978, 1984, 2001; revised 1970, 1975, laundering.
1981, 1989 (with title change), 1992, 5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
3. Terminology
1996, 2003, 2006, 2010, 2011, 2014, duct the test under relatively severe laun-
2018 (with title change). Technically 3.1 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro- dering conditions. It is recognized that
equivalent to ISO 7770. cessing or testing of textiles, material that special cycles or features are available on
is used to bring the total weight or vol- current washing machines and dryers to
ume of the textiles to an amount specified achieve improved performance on certain
Foreword in the procedure. items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
3.2 durable press, adj.—having the agitation to protect delicately con-
This test method and its accompanying ability to retain substantially the initial structed items, and durable press cycles,
photographic scales were developed for shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and with cool-down or cold rinses and reduced
evaluation of woven fabrics with a dura- unwrinkled appearance during use and spin speeds, to minimize wrinkling.
ble-press finish. It is common industry after laundering or drycleaning. 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
practice to use the method and scales for 3.3 grade, n.—the number assigned to mussiness present in seamed fabrics. The
evaluation of other textile materials al- a test specimen resulting from compari- evaluation process is, however, based on
though some specimens may have differ- son to a scale. the visual appearance of specimens in-
ent appearance characteristics due to dif- 3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi- cluding such effects.
ferent fabric or seam construction. als, a process intended to remove soils 5.4 The Seam Smoothness Scales were
Standard laundering procedures remain and/or stains by treatment (washing) with photographed from woven fabrics. It is
consistent to allow valid comparison of an aqueous detergent solution and nor- understood that the photographs do not
results. Standard procedures represent, mally including rinsing, extracting and duplicate other fabric or seam possibili-
but may not exactly replicate, current drying. ties. The scales are to be used as guides
consumer practices, which vary over time 3.5 laundering creases, n.—sharp that represent various levels of seam
and among households. Alternate laun- folds or lines running in any direction in a smoothness.
dering procedures and machine parame- washed or dried specimen. 5.5 Small specimen sizes will occa-
ters may be found in Laboratory Proce- NOTE: Laundering creases are an un- sionally result in wrinkles or creases.
dure (LP) 1, Home Laundering: Machine intended result of restricted movement of These may not be characteristic of actual
Washing (see 12.3). specimens in the washer or the dryer. performance, in use.
3.6 seam smoothness, n.—in fabrics, 5.6 The interlaboratory reproducibility
1. Purpose and Scope the visual impression of planarity of a of the results of this test method depends
seamed specimen quantified by compari- upon mutual agreement by users of the
1.1 This test method is intended to de- son with a set of reference standards. method on the washing and drying condi-
termine the smoothness appearance of tions as outlined in Tables I-IV.
seams in fabrics after being subjected to 4. Safety Precautions
home laundering procedures. Several 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1)
washing and drying procedures provide NOTE: These safety precautions are
standard parameters to represent common for information purposes only. The pre- 6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate
home care options. cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- fabric temperature settings.
1.2 Seams in any washable fabric (wo- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta-
ven, knitted, or nonwoven) may be evalu- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use ble I, 12.2), for machine washing.
ated for smoothness using this method. safe and proper techniques in handling 6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing.
1.3 Techniques for seaming are not materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.4 White towel, large enough to ac-
outlined, since the purpose is to evaluate turers MUST be consulted for specific commodate test specimen, any weight,
seams as they will be supplied from man- details such as material safety data sheets for hand washing.
ufacturing or as ready for use. Further- and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
more, seaming techniques would be con- tions. All OSHA standards and rules IV, 12.2), or facilities for drip, screen or
trolled by fabric properties. must also be consulted and followed. line drying.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi-
2. Principle be followed. Wear safety glasses in all tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-
laboratory areas. rated shelves (see 12.3).
2.1 Seamed fabric specimens are sub- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. 6.7 Scale with at least 5-kg or 10-lb ca-
jected to standard home laundering prac- Care should be taken to prevent exposure pacity.
tices. Appearance of specimens is evalu- to skin and eyes. 6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
ated in a standard viewing area by 4.3 All chemicals should be handled Detergent (see 12.3).
visually comparing the specimen seam with care. 6.9 Laundering ballast Type 1 or Type
smoothness after laundering with grades 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 3 (see Table V).
represented by the appropriate AATCC dations should be followed when operat- 6.10 Evaluation area, as described in
Photographic Seam Smoothness Scale. ing laboratory testing equipment. Appendix A.

TM88B-2018 1
 Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.7)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
The temperatures in this table are similar to those specified by the US Federal Trade Commission for care label verification (see Table VIII). Due to US Department of Energy
requirements, many consumer washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Table II—Standard Hand Washing Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
and Rinsing Temperatures
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
Wash Temp, Rinse Temp, Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
Designation °C (°F) °C (°F) Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) Type 1 Type 3
1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir- Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
ing hand washing. Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
Table III—Standard Drying Conditions Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
(A) Tumble Dry Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press 8. Laundering Procedure low washing to proceed through the final
(B) Line/Hang Dry spin cycle.
(C) Drip Dry 8.1 Machine Washing. 8.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat 8.1.1 Select washing conditions for rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
testing from Table I. Normal cycle is taking care to minimize distortion.
recommended. Set washing machine con-
8.1.8 Washer creases. Specimens may
6.11 AATCC Photographic Seam trols to generate the selected cycle pa-
be in a folded or creased state after wash-
Smoothness Scales, for single- and dou- rameters.
ing. Such folds or creases should be re-
ble-needle seams (see Fig. 1, 12.3). The 8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist moved by hand prior to drying.
reproduction shown in Fig. 1 may not be of all specimens, plus enough laundering
ballast pieces to make a total load weight 8.1.9 Proceed to appropriate drying
used for rating.
of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very procedure.
critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit 8.2 Hand Washing.
7. Test Specimens
the number of specimens per washer load 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
to those from one sample. Table II. Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
7.1 Cut three 380 x 380 mm (15 x 15 of water at this temperature to the wash
in) specimens, sides parallel to the length 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
machine to fill to specified water level. tub.
and width fabric directions such that ex- 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
isting seams run through the middle of 8.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
Standard Reference Detergent to washing Standard Reference Detergent to wash
each specimen. Where possible, each tub.
specimen should contain different groups machine as directed by washing machine
manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent 8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter-
of lengthwise and widthwise yarns. The gent.
specimens should be marked to indicate is added directly to wash water, agitate
briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi- 8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and
the lengthwise direction. gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-
tation before adding wash load.
7.1.1 If fraying is expected in launder- 8.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens lution. Do not twist or wring.
ing, see 12.4. and ballast), distributing evenly around 8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
7.1.2 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may center agitator. Restart wash cycle. 8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior 8.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle or wring.
Temperature Guide, in TM133, Color- before the water begins to drain from the 8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
fastness to Heat: Hot Pressing (see 12.3). final rinse cycle. Remove specimens squeeze in detergent solution.
Take care to avoid altering quality of the soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble 8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash
seam itself. (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al- tub and gently squeeze to remove excess

2 TM88B-2018
 A. For single needle seams. B. For double needle seams.

Fig. 1—AATCC photographic seam smoothness scales.

detergent solution. Do not twist or wring. room temperature not greater than 26°C dently.
8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white (78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly 9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci-
towel. Empty and rinse wash tub. on specimens as it may cause distortion. fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu-
8.2.10 Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) 8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each minate the viewing area with the over-
of clean water at the specified rinse tem- specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- head fluorescent light only. Turn all other
perature (see Table II) to the wash tub. rated surface, removing wrinkles without lights in the room off.
8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from distorting or stretching it. Allow speci- 9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to mens to rest in still air at room tempera- front of the specimen, 1219 ± 25 mm (48
distribute. Do not twist or wring. ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until ± 1in.) away from the board. It has been
8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- found that normal variations in the height
8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in mens as it may cause distortion. of the observer above and below the arbi-
rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or 8.3.6 For all drying methods. allow trary 1524-mm (60-in.) eye level have no
wring. specimens to dry completely before significant effect on the grade given.
8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min washing again. 9.4 Mount the test specimen on the
squeeze in rinse water. 8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci- viewing board with the seam in the verti-
8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash mens are folded or creased after any dry- cal direction. Place the appropriate sin-
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess ing cycle except the last, rewet and at- gle- or double-needle AATCC Photo-
water. Do not twist or wring. tempt to remove the creases by ironing graphic Seam Smoothness Scale beside
8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot with a hand iron at a temperature suitable the specimen to facilitate comparative
water from washed specimen(s). Do not for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.2), evaluation.
wring or twist. prior to additional laundering cycles. Do 9.5 Confine observations to the area in-
8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying not attempt to remove wrinkles or creases fluenced by the seam and disregard the
procedure. by hand ironing after the final drying cycle. appearance of the surrounding fabric. The
8.3 Drying. 8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and Seam Smoothness Scales were photo-
8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- drying procedures for a total of 5 com- graphed from woven fabrics. It is under-
ble III. plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of stood that the photographs do not dupli-
8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the cycles. cate other fabric or seam possibilities.
washed load (test specimens and ballast) 8.4 Conditioning. The scales are to be used as guides that
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera- 8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is represent various levels of seam smooth-
ture control to generate the selected cycle complete, condition test specimens as di- ness.
exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al- rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac- 9.6 The seam smoothness (SS) grade is
low the dryer to run until the load is fully tice for Conditioning and Testing Tex- that of the Photographic Scale seam that
dry. Remove specimens immediately. tiles (see 12.5). (Use conditions indicated most nearly matches the appearance of
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate the test specimen seam.
fabric specimen by two corners, with the conditioning time as indicated in Table 2 9.7 Average the nine observations
fabric length in the vertical direction. Al- for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay made on each test fabric (three grades on
low specimens to hang in still air at room each test specimen flat, separately, on a each of three test specimens). Report the
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) screen or perforated shelf of a condition- average to the nearest tenth of a grade.
until dry. Do not blow air directly on ing/drying rack. This average is the unit of measure of this
specimens as it may cause distortion. test method.
8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip- 9. Evaluation
ping wet specimen by two corners, with 10. Report
the fabric length in the vertical direction. 9.1 Three trained observers should
Allow specimens to hang in still air at evaluate each test specimen indepen- 10.1 Report for each sample tested:

TM88B-2018 3
 10.1.1 A description or identification Table VI—Components of Variance 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax:
of the sample. (as variance) +1.610.832. 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using 12.6 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view-
AATCC Test Method 88B-2018. Component Variance ing laundered specimens is specified in this
10.1.3 Number of specimens tested. Laboratory 0.113 method. It is recognized, however, that physi-
cal space limitations in certain laboratories
10.1.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., type 1 FL Interaction 0.031
will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those
or type 3. Specimen (FRL) 0.191
situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower
10.1.5 Standard detergent used, i.e., viewing board may be used.
AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Deter- 12.7 The laundering temperatures and other
gent with or without optical brightener. parameters listed in this test method are stan-
Table VII—Critical Differences for Single
10.1.6 Number of laundering cycles Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
(default is 5 cycles). most lab procedures, they represent, but may
10.1.7 Laundering conditions, includ- Within Laboratory Between Laboratory not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
ing washing machine cycle, wash tem- tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
perature, drying procedure and tumble 0.70 1.16 among households; lab practices must be con-
sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha- laundering equipment or conditions other than
numeric designations may be used if they those specifically listed in this test method are
are clearly understood by all parties. For Table VIII—Critical Differences for Multiple used, they must be described in detail and
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) noted as a modification of the standard
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble method. Alternate laundering conditions are
dry cycle. Within Laboratory Between Laboratory outlined in LP1.
10.1.8 Number of observers. 0.70 1.26
10.1.9 Seam smoothness scale used.
i.e., single-needle or double-needle. Appendix A
10.1.10 Any modifications of the test Evaluation Area
method. method. There is no independent method
for determining the true value. This test A1 Viewing Board.
10.1.11 Average seam smoothness
(SS) grade. method has no known bias. A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide
enough to accommodate scale and speci-
11. Precision and Bias 12. Notes
men side by side
11.1 Interlaboratory Study. Tests for 12.1 For potential equipment information A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip
seam smoothness were conducted in pertaining to this test method, please visit the on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3).
1993 using Machine Wash Normal, online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. Approximate CIELAB values for the
41°C, and Tumble Dry, Normal/Cotton aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler-
Sturdy laundering settings. Six laborato- of listing equipment and materials sold by its ance of two units for each parameter is
Corporate members, but AATCC does not
ries tested double-needle seams. Three qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
acceptable for the board color in this test
observers in each laboratory indepen- tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- method.
dently evaluated the same three speci- als meets the requirements in its test methods. A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or
mens from each of the fabrics, yielding 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and other means to secure specimen and scale
nine grades to average for each test re- tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard such that center of specimen is 1524 mm
sult, as required by the method. parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers (60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be
11.2 Precision. or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Re- fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
11.2.1 Double-Needle Seams. Compo- search Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919. A2 Lighting.
nents of variance are given in Table VI, 549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
[email protected]. An alternate load size was A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
and critical differences for single fabric fixture (see 12.6).
described in previous versions of this method
and for multiple fabric comparisons are (3.6-kg load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
given in Tables VII and VIII, respec- 1993 Standard Reference Detergent), but no white lamps (without baffle or glass),
tively. machine is reported to meet the standard pa-
11.2.2 If comparisons are made be- A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
rameters for this load size. In addition, dimen- (without baffle or glass),
tween laboratories on a single fabric, crit- sional change results obtained with the
ical differences in Table VII are used. alternate load size may not be equal to those A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
11.2.3 If comparisons are made be- obtained with a standard load size. A2.2 Eliminate all light sources except
tween laboratories on multiple fabrics, 12.3 Materials or drawings available from the specified fluorescent lamps.
critical differences in Table VIII are used. AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle A3 Walls.
11.2.4 If two laboratories are shown to Park NC 27709; tel:+1.919.549.8141; fax: A3.1 It has been the experience of
+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected];
be in statistical control and operating at web site: www.aatcc. org.
many observers that light reflected from
comparable levels, the magnitude of ap- the side walls near the viewing board can
12.4 If excessive fraying occurs in launder-
plicable critical differences may be less ing, specimen edges may be pinked, slashed or interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
than those given in these tables, and may stitched. If edges of laundered specimens ap- ommended that the side walls be painted
be determined by data from comparison pear distorted, clip as necessary before evalu- matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
trials between them. ating. or that blackout curtains be mounted on
11.3 Bias. The value of seam appear- 12.5 Available from ASTM International, both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
ance can be defined only in terms of a test 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA nate the reflective interference.

4 TM88B-2018
 2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Scale Side View

(93 ± 1 in.) 1524 ± 25 mm
Front View
(60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

Fig. A1—Evaluation area for seam smoothness.

TM88B-2018 5
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
AATCC standard for temporary storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or
printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic file may not be
distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be
distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Test Method 88C-2018

Crease Retention in Fabrics after Home Laundering

Developed in 1963 by AATCC Commit- retention (CR) grade of 1 to 5, with 1 rep- of burns that could result from lamp heat.
tee RA61; revised 1975, 1979, 1987, resenting the least retention and 5 repre-
1989 (with title change), 1992, 1996, senting most retention (sharpest crease). 5. Uses and Limitations
2003, 2006, 2010, 2011, 2014, 2018
(with title change); reaffirmed 1969, 3. Terminology 5.1 This test method is designed to be
1973; editorially revised 1974, 1985, used only for evaluating the appearance
1986, 1991, 1997, 2004, 2005, 2008, 3.1 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro- of washable creased fabrics after repeated
2012; editorially revised and reaffirmed cessing or testing of textiles, material that home laundering.
1984 (new title), 2001. Technically is used to bring the total weight or vol- 5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
equivalent to ISO 7769. ume of the textiles to an amount specified duct the test under relatively severe laun-
in the procedure. dering conditions. It is recognized that
3.2 crease retention, n.—in fabrics, special cycles or features are available on
Foreword the visual impression of an inserted current washing machines and dryers to
crease quantified by comparison with a achieve improved performance on certain
This test method and its accompanying set of reference standards. items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
three-dimensional crease replica set were 3.3 durable press, adj.—having the agitation to protect delicately con-
developed for evaluation of woven fab- ability to retain substantially the initial structed items, and durable press cycles,
rics with a durable-press finish. It is com- shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and with cool-down or cold rinses and re-
mon industry practice to use the method unwrinkled appearance during use and duced spin speeds, to minimize wrinkling.
and replicas for evaluation of other textile after laundering or drycleaning. 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
materials although some specimens may 3.4 grade, n.—the number assigned to appearance of a crease. The evaluation
have different appearance characteristics a test specimen resulting from compari- process is, however, based on the visual
due to different fabric constructions. son to a scale. appearance of specimens including such
Standard laundering procedures remain 3.5 laundering, n.—of textile materi- effects.
consistent to allow valid comparison of als, a process intended to remove soils 5.4 The Crease Replicas were cast
results. Standard procedures represent, and/or stains by treatment (washing) with from woven fabrics. It is understood that
but may not exactly replicate, current an aqueous detergent solution and nor- the replicas do not duplicate other fabric
consumer practices, which vary over time mally including rinsing, extracting and possibilities (knits, nonwovens). The rep-
and among households. Alternate laun- drying. licas are to be used as guides that repre-
dering procedures and machine parame- 3.6 laundering creases, n.—sharp sent various levels of fabric creasing.
ters may be found in Laboratory Proce- folds or lines running in any direction in a 5.5 Small specimen sizes will occa-
dure (LP) 1, Home Laundering: Machine washed or dried specimen. sionally result in wrinkles or creases.
Washing (see 12.3). NOTE: Laundering creases are an un- These may not be characteristic of actual
intended result of restricted movement of performance, in use.
1. Purpose and Scope specimens in the washer or the dryer. 5.6 The interlaboratory reproducibility
of the results of this test method depends
1.1 This test method is intended to de- 4. Safety Precautions upon mutual agreement by users of the
termine the retention of pressed-in method on the washing and drying condi-
creases in fabrics after being subjected to NOTE: These safety precautions are tions as outlined in Tables I-IV.
home laundering procedures. Several for information purposes only. The pre-
washing and drying procedures provide cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1)
standard parameters to represent common dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
home care options. sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate
1.2 Creases in any washable fabric safe and proper techniques in handling fabric temperature settings.
(woven, knitted or nonwoven) may be materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta-
evaluated for retention using this method. turers MUST be consulted for specific ble I, 12.2), for machine washing.
1.3 Techniques for creasing are not details such as material safety data sheets 6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing.
outlined, since the purpose is to evaluate and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.4 White towels, large enough to ac-
creases as they will be supplied from tions. All OSHA standards and rules commodate test specimen, any weight,
manufacturing or as ready for use. Fur- must also be consulted and followed. for hand washing.
thermore, creasing techniques would be 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
controlled by fabric properties. be followed. Wear safety glasses in all IV, 12.2) or facilities for drip, screen or
laboratory areas. line drying.
2. Principle 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. 6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi-
Care should be taken to prevent exposure tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-
2.1 Creased fabric specimens are sub- to skin and eyes. rated shelves (see 12.3).
jected to standard home laundering prac- 4.3 All chemicals should be handled 6.7 Scale with at least 5-kg or 10-lb ca-
tices. Appearance of specimens is evalu- with care. pacity.
ated in a standard viewing area by 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
visually comparing the specimen crease dations should be followed when operat- Detergent (see 12.3).
after laundering with grades represented ing laboratory testing equipment. 6.9 Laundering ballast Type 1 or Type
by AATCC Three-Dimensional Crease 4.5 When evaluating crease retention, 3 (see Table V).
Replicas. Results are reported as a crease use of a light shield can aid in prevention 6.10 Evaluation area, as described in

TM88C-2018 1
 Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.7)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Appendix A. testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rec- (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
6.11 AATCC Three-Dimensional Crease ommended. Set washing machine con- low washing to proceed through the final
Replicas, set of five (see Fig. 1, 12.3). trols to generate the selected cycle pa- spin cycle.
rameters. 8.1.6 After each washing cycle, sepa-
7. Test Specimens 8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
of all specimens, plus enough laundering taking care to minimize distortion.
7.1 Cut three 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 ballast pieces to make a total load weight 8.1.7 Washer creases. Specimens may
in) specimens, sides parallel to the length of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very be in a folded or creased state after wash-
and width fabric directions. Where possi- critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit ing. Such folds or creases should be re-
ble, each specimen should contain differ- the number of specimens per washer load moved by hand prior to drying.
ent groups of lengthwise and widthwise to those from one sample. 8.1.8 Proceed to appropriate drying
yarns. The specimens should be marked 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow procedure.
to indicate the lengthwise direction. machine to fill to specified water level. 8.2 Hand Washing.
7.1.1 If fraying is expected in launder- 8.3.3 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
ing, see 12.4. Standard Reference Detergent to washing Table II. Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
7.1.2 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may machine as directed by washing machine of water at this temperature to the wash
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent tub.
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing is added directly to wash water, agitate 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
Temperature Guide, in TM133, Color- briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi- Standard Reference Detergent to wash
fastness to Heat: Hot Pressing (see 12.3). tation before adding wash load. tub.
7.1.3 Press a crease through the middle 8.1.4 Add wash load (test specimens 8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter-
of each specimen in the fabric length di- and ballast), distributing evenly around gent.
rection. center agitator. Restart wash cycle. 8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and
8.1.5 For specimens to be drip dried gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-
8. Laundering Procedure (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle lution. Do not twist or wring.
before the water begins to drain from the 8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
8.1 Machine Washing. final rinse cycle. Remove specimens 8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
8.1.1 Select washing conditions for soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist
or wring.
8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
squeeze in detergent solution.
8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
detergent solution. Do not twist or wring.
8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white
towel. Empty and rinse wash tub.
8.2.10 Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
of clean water at the specified rinse tem-
perature (see Table II) to the wash tub.

Table II—Standard Hand Washing

and Rinsing Temperatures
Wash Temp, Rinse Temp,
Designation °C (°F) °C (°F)
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir-
Fig. 1—AATCC three-dimensional crease replicas. ing hand washing.

2 TM88C-2018
 8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from Take care to avoid altering quality of the fabric. The Crease Replicas were cast
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to crease itself. Do not attempt to remove from woven fabrics. It is understood that
distribute. Do not twist or wring. wrinkles or creases by hand ironing after the replicas do not duplicate other fabric
8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. the final drying cycle. possibilities (knits, nonwovens). The rep-
8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in 8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and licas are to be used as guides that repre-
rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or drying procedures for a total of 5 com- sent various levels of fabric creasing.
wring. plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of 9.6 The crease retention (CR) grade is
8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min cycles. that of the Crease Replica that most
squeeze in rinse water. 8.4 Conditioning. nearly matches the appearance of the test
8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash 8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is specimen crease.
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess complete, condition test specimens as di- 9.7 Average the nine observations
water. Do not twist or wring. rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac- made on each test fabric (three grades on
8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot tice for Conditioning and Testing Tex- each of three test specimens). Report the
water from washed specimen(s). Do not tiles (see 12.5). (Use conditions indicated average to the nearest tenth of a grade.
wring or twist. in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate This average is the unit of measure of this
8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying conditioning time as indicated in Table 2 test method.
procedure. for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay
8.3 Drying. each test specimen flat, separately, on a
8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- screen or perforated shelf of a condition- 10. Report
ble III. ing/drying rack.
8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the 10.1 Report for each sample tested.
washed load (test specimens and ballast) 9. Evaluation 10.1.1 A description or identification
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera- of the sample.
ture control to generate the selected cycle 9.1 Three trained observers should 10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al- evaluate each test specimen indepen- AATCC Test Method 88C-2018.
low the dryer to run until the load is fully dently.
dry. Remove specimens immediately. 9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci- 10.1.3 Number of specimens tested.
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu- 10.1.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
specimen by two corners, with the fabric minate the viewing area with the over- or Type 3.
length in the vertical direction. Allow head fluorescent light and the flood lamp 10.1.5 Standard detergent used, i.e.,
specimens to hang in still air at room only. Turn all other lights in the room off. AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Deter-
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) 9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in gent with or without optical brightener.
until dry. Do not blow air directly on front of the specimen 1219 ± 25 mm (48 10.1.6 Number of laundering cycles
specimens as it may cause distortion. ± 1 in.) away from the board (see Fig. (default is 5 cycles).
8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip- A2). It has been found that normal varia-
ping wet specimen by two corners, with 10.1.7 Laundering conditions, includ-
tions in the height of the observer above ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
the fabric length in the vertical direction. and below the arbitrary 1524-mm (60-in.)
Allow specimens to hang in still air at perature, drying procedure and tumble
eye level have no significant effect on the drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha-
room temperature not greater than 26°C grade given.
(78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly numeric designations may be used if they
9.4 Mount the test specimen on the are clearly understood by all parties. For
on specimens as it may cause distortion. viewing board with the crease in the ver-
8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
tical direction. Place the most similar wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- Three-Dimensional Crease Replicas on
rated surface, removing wrinkles without dry cycle.
each side of the test specimen to facilitate
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci- comparative evaluation. Mount replicas 10.1.8 Number of observers.
mens to rest in still air at room tempera- 1, 3 and 5 on the left; mount replicas 2 10.1.9 Any modifications of the test
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until and 4 on the right. method.
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- 9.5 Confine observations to the crease 10.1.10 Average crease retention (CR)
mens as it may cause distortion. itself and disregard the appearance of the grade.
8.3.6 For all drying methods, allow
specimens to dry completely before
washing again.
8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci- Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
mens are folded or creased after any dry-
ing cycle except the last, rewet and at- Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
tempt to remove the creases by ironing Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
with a hand iron at a temperature suitable Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.2),
prior to additional laundering cycles.
Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Type 1 Type 3
Table III—Standard Drying Conditions Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
(A) Tumble Dry Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
(B) Line/Hang Dry Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
(C) Drip Dry (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g

TM88C-2018 3
11. Precision and Bias ical differences in Table VII are used. 12.7 The laundering temperatures and other
11.2.3 If comparisons are made be- parameters listed in this test method are stan-
11.1 Interlaboratory Study. Tests for tween laboratories on multiple fabrics, dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
crease retention were conducted in 1992 critical differences in Table VIII are used. most lab procedures, they represent, but may
using Machine Wash Normal, 41°C, and not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
11.2.4 If two laboratories are shown to tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
Tumble Dry, Normal/Cotton Sturdy laun- be in statistical control and operating at
dering settings. Six laboratories evaluated among households; lab practices must be con-
comparable levels, the magnitude of ap- sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
six fabrics for crease retention grades. plicable critical differences may be less laundering equipment or conditions other than
Three observers in each laboratory inde- than those given in these tables, and may those specifically listed in this test method are
pendently evaluated the same three speci- be determined by data from comparison used, they must be described in detail and
mens from each of the fabrics, yielding trials between them. noted as a modification of the standard
nine grades to average for each test re- method. Alternate laundering conditions are
11.3 Bias. The value of crease reten-
sult, as required by the method. outlined in LP1.
tion can be defined only in terms of a test
11.1.1 The participating laboratories method. There is no independent method
were presumed to be performing the test for determining the true value. This test Appendix A
method under statistical control, without method has no known bias. Evaluation Area
verification.
11.1.2 Committee RA61 directed use A1 Viewing Board.
of the analysis of variance technique. No 12. Notes A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
correction was made for rating scale dis- high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide
12.1 For potential equipment information
continuity. pertaining to this test method, please visit the enough to accommodate scale and speci-
11.1.3 Because variability was quite online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at men side by side
high in the study, especially residual vari- www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the pos- A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip
ance, users of the method are alerted to sibility of listing equipment and materials sold on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3).
check for possible sources of variability by its Corporate members, but AATCC does Approximate CIELAB values for the
before initiating any test program. not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler-
certify that any of the listed equipment or ma- ance of two units for each parameter is
11.1.4 The analysis has been retained terials meets the requirements in its test meth-
for reference in the Committee RA61 acceptable for the board color in this test
ods. method.
files. 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and
11.2 Precision. tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard
A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or
11.2.1 Components of Variance are parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers other means to secure specimen and scale
given in Table VI, and critical differences or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research such that center of specimen is 1524 mm
for single fabric and for multiple fabric Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549. (60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be
comparisons are given in Tables VII, and 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@ fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
VIII, respectively.
aatcc.org. An alternate load size was described A2 Lighting.
in previous versions of this method (3.6-kg A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
11.2.2 If comparisons are made be- load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC 1993
tween laboratories on a single fabric, crit- fixture (see 12.6).
Standard Reference Detergent), but no ma- A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
chine is reported to meet the standard parame-
ters for this load size. In addition, dimensional white lamps (without baffle or glass),
change results obtained with the alternate load A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
Table VI—Components of Variance size may not be equal to those obtained with a (without baffle or glass),
(as variance) standard load size. A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
12.3 Materials or drawings available from A2.2 Incandescent flood lamp, 500
Component Variance AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle watts, 120 V, C9 filament, 90° flood spread.
Laboratory 0.0855 Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: A2.2.1 254-mm (10-in.) aluminum re-
FL Interaction 0.2049 +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; web flector, for use with flood lamp.
Specimen (FRL) 0.6304 site: www.aatcc. org.
A2.2.2 Light shield.
12.4 If excessive fraying occurs in launder-
ing, specimen edges should be pinked, slashed A2.2.3 Position as shown in Fig. A2.
or stitched. If edges of laundered specimens A2.3 Eliminate all light sources except
Table VII—Critical Differences for Single appear distorted, clip as necessary before eval- the specified fluorescent lamps and flood
Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) uating. lamp.
12.5 Available from ASTM International, A3 Walls.
Within Laboratory Between Laboratory 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA A3.1 It has been the experience of
1.37 1.59 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. many observers that light reflected from
9555; web site: www.astm.org. the side walls near the viewing board can
12.6 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view- interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
ing laundered specimens is specified in this
Table VII—Critical Differences for Multiple
method. It is recognized, however, that physi-
ommended that the side walls be painted
Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) cal space limitations in certain laboratories matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those or that blackout curtains be mounted on
Within Laboratory Between Laboratory both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower
1.37 2.03 viewing board may be used. nate the reflective interference.

4 TM88C-2018
 2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Replica Replica Side View

(93 ± 1 in.)
1524 ± 25 mm
Front View (60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

Fig. A1—Evaluation area for crease retention.

Light Flood lamp

Shield with reflector
Eye Level

1524 ± 25 mm
Abitrary

(60 ± 1 in.)
5°± 0.5°

45°± 1°

1219 ± 25 mm 1829 ± 25 mm
(48 ± 1 in.) (72 ± 1 in.)

Fig. A2—Lighting and viewing arrangement for crease retention evaluation.

TM88C-2018 5
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
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printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
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distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Test Method 124-2018

Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Home Laundering

Developed in 1967 by AATCC Commit- 3. Terminology ing.
tee RA61; revised 1969, 1975, 1982, 5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
1989 (with title change), 1992, 1996, 3.1 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro- duct the test under relatively severe laun-
2005, 2006, 2009 (with title change), cessing or testing of textiles, material that dering conditions. It is recognized that
2010, 2011, 2014, 2018 (with title is used to bring the total weight or vol- special cycles or features are available on
change); editorially revised 1974, ume of the textiles to an amount specified current washing machines and dryers to
1983, 1985, 1988, 1991, 1997, 2004, in the procedure. achieve improved performance on certain
2008, 2012; reaffirmed 1973; editorial- 3.2 durable press, adj.—having the items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
ly revised and reaffirmed 1978, 1984, ability to retain substantially the initial agitation to protect delicately con-
2001. Technically equivalent to ISO shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and structed items, and durable press cycles,
7768. unwrinkled appearance during use and with cool-down or cold rinses and re-
after laundering or drycleaning. duced spin speeds, to minimize wrin-
3.3 grade, n.—the number assigned to kling.
Foreword a test specimen resulting from compari- 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
son to a scale. mussiness present in fabrics. The evalua-
This test method and its accompanying 3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi-
three-dimensional smoothness appear- tion process is, however, based on the vi-
als, a process intended to remove soils sual appearance of specimens including
ance replica set were developed for eval- and/or stains by treatment (washing) with
uation of woven fabrics with a durable- such effects.
an aqueous detergent solution and nor- 5.4 The Smoothness Appearance Rep-
press finish. It is common industry prac- mally including rinsing, extracting and
tice to use the method and scales for eval- licas were cast from woven fabrics. It is
drying. understood that the replicas do not dupli-
uation of other textile materials although 3.5 laundering creases, n.—sharp
some specimens may have different ap- cate other fabric possibilities (knits, non-
folds or lines running in any direction in a wovens). The replicas are to be used as
pearance characteristics due to different washed or dried specimen. NOTE: Laun-
fabric constructions. guides that represent various levels of
dering creases are an unintended result of fabric smoothness.
Standard laundering procedures remain restricted movement of specimens in a
consistent to allow valid comparison of 5.5 Small specimen sizes will occa-
washer or the dryer. sionally result in wrinkles or creases.
results. Standard procedures represent, 3.6 smoothness appearance, n.—in
but may not exactly replicate, current These may not be characteristic of actual
fabrics, the visual impression of planarity performance, in use.5.6 The interlabora-
consumer practices, which vary over time of a specimen quantified by comparison
and among households. Alternate laun- tory reproducibility of the results of this
with a set of reference standards. test method depends upon mutual agree-
dering procedures and machine parame-
ters may be found in Laboratory Proce- ment by users of the method on the wash-
dure (LP) 1, Home Laundering: Machine 4. Safety Precautions ing and drying conditions as outlined in
Washing, (see 12.3). Tables I-IV.
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre-
1. Purpose and Scope cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6. Apparatus and Materials (12.1)
1.1 This test method is intended to de- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate
termine the smoothness appearance of sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use fabric temperature settings.
fabrics after being subjected to home safe and proper techniques in handling
6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta-
laundering procedures. Several washing materials in this test method. Manufac-
ble I, 12.2), for machine washing.
and drying procedures provide standard turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets 6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing.
parameters to represent common home 6.4 White towels, large enough to ac-
care options. and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules commodate test specimen, any weight,
1.2 Any washable fabric (woven, knit- for hand washing.
ted or nonwoven) may be evaluated for must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
smoothness appearance using this IV, 12.2) or facilities for drip, screen or
method. be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas. line drying.
4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. 6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi-
2. Principle tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-
Care should be taken to prevent exposure
2.1 Fabric specimens are subjected to to skin and eyes. rated shelves (see 12.3).
standard home laundering practices. Ap- 4.3 All chemicals should be handled 6.7 Scale with at least 5-kg or 10-lb ca-
pearance of specimens is evaluated in a with care. pacity.
standard viewing area by visually com- 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
paring the specimen smoothness after dations should be followed when operat- Detergent (see 12.3).
laundering with grades represented by ing laboratory testing equipment. 6.9 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type
AATCC Three-Dimensional Smooth- 3 (see Table V).
ness Replicas. Results are reported as a 5. Uses and Limitations 6.10 Evaluation area, as described in
smoothness appearance (SA) grade of 1 Appendix A.
to 5, with 1 representing the least smooth- 5.1 This test method is designed to be 6.11 AATCC Three-Dimensional
ness and 5 representing the most smooth- used only for evaluating the appearance Smoothness Appearance Replicas, set of
ness (no wrinkles). of washable fabrics after home launder- six (see Fig. 1 and 12.3).

TM124-2018 1
 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-
machine to fill to specified water level. lution. Do not twist or wring.
8.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
Standard Reference Detergent to washing 8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
machine as directed by washing machine detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist
manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent or wring.
is added directly to wash water, agitate 8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi- squeeze in detergent solution.
tation before adding wash load. 8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash
8.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
and ballast), distributing evenly around detergent solution. Do not twist or wring.
center agitator. Restart wash cycle. 8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white
8.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried towel. Empty and rinse wash tub.
(drying procedure C), stop wash cycle 8.2.10 Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
before the water begins to drain from the of clean water at the specified rinse tem-
Fig. 1—AATCC three-dimensional final rinse cycle. Remove specimens perature (see Table II) to the wash tub.
smoothness appearance replicas. soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble 8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from
(A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al- towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to
low washing to proceed through the final distribute. Do not twist or wring.
6.12 Digital imaging system, for speci- spin cycle. 8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
men evaluation (optional). 8.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa- 8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces, rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or
7. Test Specimens taking care to minimize distortion. wring.
8.1.8 Washer creases. Specimens may 8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
7.1 Cut three 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 be in a folded or creased state after wash- squeeze in rinse water.
in) specimens, sides parallel to the length ing. Such folds or creases should be re- 8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash
and width fabric directions. Where possi- moved by hand prior to drying. tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
ble, each specimen should contain differ- 8.1.9 Proceed to appropriate drying water. Do not twist or wring.
ent groups of lengthwise and widthwise procedure. 8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot
yarns. The specimens should be marked 8.2 Hand Washing. water from washed specimen(s). Do not
to indicate the lengthwise direction. 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from wring or twist.
7.1.1 If fraying is expected in launder- Table II. Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) 8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying
ing, see 12.4. of water at this temperature to the wash procedure.
7.1.2 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may tub. 8.3 Drying.
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta-
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing Standard Reference Detergent to wash tub. ble III.
Temperature Guide, in TM133, Color- 8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter- 8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the
fastness to Heat: Hot Pressing (see 12.3). gent. washed load (test specimens and ballast)
8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
8. Laundering Procedure ture control to generate the selected cycle
exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al-
8.1 Machine Washing. low the dryer to run until the load is fully
8.1.1 Select washing conditions for Table II—Standard Hand Washing
dry. Remove specimens immediately.
testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rec- and Rinsing Temperatures
ommended. Set washing machine con- Wash Temp, Rinse Temp,
trols to generate the selected cycle pa- Designation °C (°F) °C (°F)
rameters. Table III—Standard Drying Conditions
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist (A) Tumble Dry
of all specimens, plus enough laundering Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal
ballast pieces to make a total load weight Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) (Aii Tumble Dry Delicate
of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) (Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit 1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for (B) Line/Hang Dry
the number of specimens per washer load hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir- (C) Drip Dry
to those from one sample. ing hand washing. (D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat

Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.7)

Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

2 TM124-2018
 Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2) ance Replica that most nearly matches
the smoothness appearance of the test
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press specimen. Observers may assign a grade
Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) midway between those whole-number
Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10 replicas that have no half-number replica
separating them (SA-1.5, SA-2.5, SA-
4.5) if the appearance of the test speci-
Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters men warrants it.
Type 1 Type 3 9.6.1 If laundering creases are present
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3% on any specimens to be evaluated, take
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun care in rating the specimens. Some laun-
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave dering creases can be disregarded (com-
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2 monly called “reading out”). When the
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged grade of a laundering-creased specimen
Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm differs from the other specimens by more
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) than one grade, the test should be re-
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g peated with new specimens, taking all
precautions to avoid the occurrence of
laundering creases.
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each 9. Evaluation
9.7 A digital imaging system may be
specimen by two corners, with the fabric
9.1 Three trained observers should eval- used in place of the visual replicas if it
length in the vertical direction. Allow
specimens to hang in still air at room uate each test specimen independently. has been established by the user that its
9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci- accuracy is equivalent.
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F)
until dry. Do not blow air directly on fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu- 9.8 Average the nine observations
specimens as it may cause distortion. minate the viewing area with the over- made on each test fabric (three grades on
8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip- head fluorescent light only. Turn all other each of three test specimens). Report the
ping wet specimen by two corners, with lights in the room off. average to the nearest tenth of a grade.
the fabric length in the vertical direction. 9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in This average is the unit of measure of this
Allow specimens to hang in still air at front of the specimen 1219 ± 25 mm (48 test method.
room temperature not greater than 26°C ± 1 in.) away from the board. It has been
(78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly found that normal variations in the height 10. Report
on specimens as it may cause distortion. of the observer above and below the arbi-
trary 1524-mm (60-in,) eye level have no 10.1 Report for each sample tested:
8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- significant effect on the grade given. 10.1.1 A description or identification
rated surface, removing wrinkles without 9.4 Mount the test specimen on the of the sample.
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci- viewing board with the fabric length in 10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
mens to rest in still air at room tempera- the vertical direction. Place the most sim- AATCC Test Method 124-2018.
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until ilar Three-Dimensional Smoothness Ap- 10.1.3 Number of specimens tested.
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- pearance Replicas on each side of the test 10.1.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
mens as it may cause distortion. specimen to facilitate comparative evalu- or Type 3).
8.3.6 For all drying methods, allow ation. 10.1.5 Standard detergent used, i.e.,
specimens to dry completely before 9.5 The Smoothness Appearance Rep- AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Deter-
washing again. licas were cast from woven fabrics. It is gent with or without optical brightener.
8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci- understood that the replicas do not dupli- 10.1.6 Number of laundering cycles
mens are folded or creased after any dry- cate all possible fabric surfaces. The rep- (default is 5 cycles).
ing cycle except the last, rewet and at- licas are to be used as guides that repre- 10.1.7 Laundering conditions, includ-
tempt to remove the creases by ironing sent various levels of fabric smoothness ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
with a hand iron at a temperature suitable or freedom from wrinkles. The observer perature, drying procedure and tumble
for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.2), should mentally integrate degree and fre- drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha-
prior to additional laundering cycles. Do quency of wrinkles in the specimen to de- numeric designations may be used if they
not attempt to remove wrinkles or creases termine a level of smoothness that can be are clearly understood by all parties. For
by hand ironing after the final drying identified with the SA replica number example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
cycle. which most nearly represents that wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and smoothness appearance level (see Table dry cycle.
drying procedures for a total of 5 com- VI). 10.1.8 Number of observers.
plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of 9.6 The smoothness appearance (SA) 10.1.9 Any modification of the test
cycles. grade is that of the Smoothness Appear- method.
8.4 Conditioning.
8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is
complete, condition test specimens as di-
rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac- Table VI—Fabric Smoothness Grades by SA Replica Equivalents
tice for Conditioning and Testing Tex-
tiles (see 12.5). (Use conditions indicated Grade Description
in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate SA-5 Equivalent to the SA-5 Replica. Very smooth, pressed, finished appearance.
conditioning time as indicated in Table 2 SA-4 Equivalent to the SA-4 Replica. Smooth, finished appearance.
for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay SA-3.5 Equivalent to the SA-3.5 Replica. Fairly smooth but nonpressed appearance.
each test specimen flat, separately, on a SA-3 Equivalent to the SA-3 Replica. Mussed, nonpressed appearance.
screen or perforated shelf of a condition- SA-2 Equivalent to the SA-2 Replica. Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance.
ing/drying rack. SA-1 Equivalent to the SA-1 Replica. Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled appearance.

TM124-2018 3
 10.1.10 Average smoothness appear- Differences between laboratory test re- viewing board may be used, but replicas iden-
ance (SA) grade. sults (on the same fabric, under the same tified as SA-4, SA-3 and SA-1 should always
washing and drying conditions) equal to be placed on the left side of the viewing board
or greater than a quarter replica unit are as the board is viewed from the front. Replicas
11. Precision and Bias identified as SA-5, SA-3.5 and SA-2 should
statistically significant at P ≥ 0.99. A dif- always be placed on the viewing board to the
11.1 Interlaboratory tests. Tests were ference of this magnitude or greater sug- right side as the board is viewed from the
conducted in 1980 using Machine Wash gests a difference in laboratory levels and front.
Normal, 41C, and Tumble Dry, Normal/ indicates the need for laboratory level 12.7 The laundering temperatures and other
Cotton Sturdy laundering settings. Eight comparisons. parameters listed in this test method are stan-
laboratories evaluated four fabrics for 11.5 Bias. The true value of smooth- dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
smoothness appearance grades. The anal- ness appearance in durable press fabrics most lab procedures, they represent, but may
ysis of variance technique was judged not after repeated home launderings can be not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
to be applicable to this data set because defined only in terms of a test method. tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
its distribution was not normal, and be- among households; lab practices must be con-
There is no independent method for de- sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
cause of the limited and discontinuous termining the true value. As an estimate laundering equipment or conditions other than
scale of replica grades. The data were an- of this property, this test method has no those specifically listed in this test method are
alyzed by calculating expected laboratory known bias. used, they must be described in detail and
test results from the distribution of indi- noted as a modification of the standard
vidual specimen grades. This analysis has 12. Notes method. Alternate laundering conditions are
been deposited for reference in the RA61 outlined in LP1.
committee files. 12.1 For potential equipment information
11.2 Observer repeatability. From the pertaining to this test method, please visit the Appendix A
data it was determined that single observ- online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at Evaluation Area
www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the pos-
ers rated three specimens on the follow- sibility of listing equipment and materials sold
ing frequency: A1 Viewing Board.
by its Corporate members, but AATCC does A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
3 specimens to same replica ..........0.55 not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide
2 specimens to same replica certify that any of the listed equipment or ma-
terials meets the requirements in its test meth-
enough to accommodate scale and speci-
and one different ........................0.40 men side by side
ods.
3 specimens different .....................0.05 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip
Only rarely did the separation in speci- tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3).
men grades exceed the next replica step. parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers Approximate CIELAB values for the
This is indicative of the high degree of re- or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler-
peatability in observer rating of smooth- Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549. ance of two units for each parameter is
8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@ acceptable for the board color in this test
ness appearance. aatcc.org. An alternate load size was described
11.3 Laboratory test result distribution method.
in previous versions of this method (3.6-kg A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or
(within-laboratory repeatability). From load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC 1993
the observed grade distribution, a distri- Standard Reference Detergent), but no ma- other means to secure specimen and scale
bution of laboratory test results was cal- chine is reported to meet the standard parame- such that center of specimen is 1524 mm
culated for each replica level with half ters for this load size. In addition, dimensional (60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be
grades included. Precision over the whole change results obtained with the alternate load fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
SA replica range was improved. size may not be equal to those obtained with a A2 Lighting.
standard load size. A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
11.4 Precision. From the frequency 12.3 Materials or drawings available from
distribution of laboratory test results, a fixture (see 12.6).
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
calculation was made of the critical dif- Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax:
ference, D, between two laboratory test white lamps (without baffle or glass),
+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected];
results. With laboratories at the same web site: www.aatcc.org. A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
level: 12.4 If excessive fraying occurs in launder- (without baffle or glass),
ing, specimen edges should be pinked, slashed A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
Critical Confidence or stitched. If edges of laundered specimens A2.1.4 Eliminate all light sources ex-
Difference Level appear distorted, clip as necessary before eval- cept the specified fluorescent lamps.
D > 0.17 P ≥ 0.95 uating. A3 Walls.
12.5 Available from ASTM International, A3.1 It has been the experience of
D ≥ 0.25 P ≥ 0.99 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA many observers that light reflected from
When two or more laboratories wish to 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. the side walls near the viewing board can
compare test results, it is recommended 9555; web site: www.astm.org. interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
12.6 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view-
that laboratory level be established be- ing laundered specimens is specified in this
ommended that the side walls be painted
tween them prior to commencing test method. It is recognized, however, that physi- matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
comparisons. Fabrics of known history cal space limitations in certain laboratories or that blackout curtains be mounted on
and performance may be used for this will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
purpose. situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower nate the reflective interference.

4 TM124-2018
 2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Replica Replica Side View

(93 ± 1 in.)
1524 ± 25 mm
Front View (60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

Fig. A1—Evaluation area for smoothness appearance evaluation.

TM124-2018 5
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
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printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
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distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be
distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Test Method 135-2018

Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

Developed in 1970 by AATCC Commit- and/or stains by treatment (washing) with 6.1.1 Samples from which dimensional
tee RA42; reaffirmed 1973, 2000; re- an aqueous detergent solution and nor- change specimens are to be taken should
vised 1978, 1987, 1995, 2001, 2003 mally including rinsing, extraction and be representative of the fabric processing
(with title change), 2004, 2010, 2012, drying. stage, finishing treatment, research lab
2014, 2015, 2018; editorially revised 3.4 shrinkage, n.—a dimensional trial, pallet, lot or end-product stage.
1982, 1985, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1996, change resulting in a decrease in the 6.1.2 Fabrics that are distorted in their
1997, 2006, 2008, 2016; editorially re- length or width of a specimen. unlaundered state may give deceptive di-
vised and reaffirmed 1992. Related to mensional change results when laundered
ISO 3759. 4. Safety Precautions by any procedure. In such cases, it is rec-
NOTE: These safety precautions are ommended that specimens not be taken
for information purposes only. The pre- from any distorted area of a fabric sam-
Foreword cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- ple.
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6.1.3 Tubular knitted samples should
Standard laundering procedures remain be slit and handled flat in a single layer.
consistent to allow valid comparison of sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling Only circular knitted fabrics produced on
results. Standard procedures represent, body-width machines are to be used as
but may not exactly replicate, current materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific specimens in their tubular form. Circular
consumer practices, which vary over time knitted fabrics made on body-width ma-
and among households. Alternate laun- details such as material safety data sheets
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- chines are ones to be used in garments
dering procedures and machine parame- with no side seams. Body-width tubular
ters may be found in Laboratory Pro- tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must also be consulted and followed. circular knitted garments and seamless
cedure (LP) 1, Home Laundering: garments (knit-to-wear) should be tested
Machine Washing and LP2, Home Laun- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all according to AATCC Test Method (TM)
dering: Hand Washing (see 12.3). 150, Dimensional Changes of Garments
laboratory areas.
4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. after Home Laundering (see 12.3).
1. Purpose and Scope 6.1.4 Specimens tested in accordance
Care should be taken to prevent exposure
1.1 This test method is intended for the to skin and eyes. with TM135 may also be used for testing
determination of dimensional (length and 4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- for skewness change in accordance with
width) changes of fabrics when subjected dations should be followed when operat- Options 1 or 2 in TM179, Skew Change
to home laundering procedures. Four ing laboratory testing equipment. in Fabrics After Home Laundering (see
washing temperatures, three agitation cy- 12.3).
cles, and four drying procedures provide 6.1.5 If fraying of specimens is ex-
5. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1) pected in laundering, refer to 12.6.
standard parameters to represent common
home care options. 5.1 Standard washing machine (see Ta- 6.1.6 Prior to marking, condition test
1.2 This test is applicable to all fabrics ble I, 12.2). specimens as directed in ASTM D1776,
suitable for home laundering. 5.2 Standard tumble dryer (see Table Standard Practice for Conditioning and
III, 12.2) or facilities for drip/line drying. Testing Textiles (see 12.5). (Use condi-
5.3 Conditioning facilities and condi- tions indicated in Table 1 for Textiles,
2. Principle
tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo- general. Estimate conditioning time as in-
2.1 Pairs of benchmarks are applied to rated shelves (see 12.3). dicated in Table 2 for the appropriate fi-
the fabric before laundering. The distance 5.4 Balance with at least 5.0-kg or ber content.) Lay each test specimen flat,
between each pair is measured before 10.0-lb capacity. separately, on a screen or perforated shelf
laundering and remeasured after a speci- 5.5 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference of a conditioning rack.
fied number of standard laundering cy- Detergent (see 12.3). 6.1.7 Lay the sample on a flat surface.
cles. Percent change is calculated. A neg- 5.6 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type Do not allow any section of the sample to
ative value indicates shrinkage; a positive 3 (see Table IV). hang over the edge of the work table. Us-
value indicates growth. A value close to 5.7 Indelible ink marking pen (see ing a template for the selected test size,
zero indicates little or no change. 12.3) for use with suitable rule, tape, mark specimens parallel to the selvage or
marking template or other marking de- fabric length direction. Avoid use of the
3. Terminology vice (see 12.3). Sewing thread may be sample area within ten percent of the
used for making benchmarks. sample width. Specimens should be taken
3.1 dimensional change, n.—a ge- 5.8 Measuring devices. from areas with different lengthwise and
neric term for changes in length or width 5.8.1 Tape or rule marked in millime- widthwise yarns (see Fig. 1). Identify the
of a fabric specimen subjected to speci- ters, eighths or tenths of an inch. length direction of the specimens before
fied conditions. The change is usually ex- 5.8.2 Tape or ruled template marked cutting them out of the sample. When
pressed as a percentage of the initial di- directly in percent dimensional change to possible, three specimens from each fab-
mension of the specimen. 0.5% or smaller increment (see 12.3). ric should be used. One or two specimens
3.2 growth, n.—a dimensional change 5.8.3 Digital Imaging System (see 12.4). may be used when insufficient fabric
resulting in an increase of length or width sample is available.
of a specimen. 6. Test Specimens
6.2 Marking.
3.3 laundering, n.—of textile materi- 6.2.1 Option 1: 250-mm (10.0-in.)
als, a process intended to remove soils 6.1 Sampling and Preparation. benchmarks. Mark each 380 × 380 mm

TM135-2018 1
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Pairs of benchmarks in the same direc- the fabrics as instructed in 6.2, measure
tions must be spaced approximately 250 and record the distance between each pair
mm (10 in.) apart. of benchmarks with suitable tape or rule
6.2.3 Narrow Fabrics. to nearest millimeter, eight or tenth of an
6.2.3.1 For test specimens greater than inch. This is measurement A. In case of
125 mm (5 in.) and less than 380 mm (15 narrow fabrics less than 380 mm (15 in.)
in.) wide, take full width of test fabrics wide, measure and record width if width
and cut each specimen 380 mm (15 in.) measurement will be used. If using a cali-
Selvage

long. Mark the length as in 6.2.1. Mea- brated template for marking and measur-
surement of the width is optional. ing in percent dimensional change di-
6.2.3.2 For test specimens 25-125 mm rectly, an initial measurement is not
(1-5 in.) wide, take full width of test fab- needed.
Fig. 1—Diagram for cutting
rics and cut each specimen 380 mm (15
fabric specimens. 7. Laundering Procedure
in.) long. Use only two pairs of bench-
marks parallel to the length. Measure- 7.1 Washing.
ment of the width is optional.
(15 × 15 in.) test specimen with three 7.1.1 Select washing conditions for
6.2.3.3 For test specimens less than 25 testing from Table I. Set washing ma-
250-mm (10-in.) pairs of benchmarks mm (1 in.) in width, take full width of test
parallel to the test specimen length and chine controls to generate the selected cy-
fabrics and cut each specimen 380 mm cle parameters.
three 250 mm (10 in.) pairs of bench- (15 in.) long. Use only one pair of bench-
marks parallel to the test specimen width. 7.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist
marks parallel to the length. Measure- of all specimens in the sample, plus
Each benchmark must be at least 50 mm ment of the width is optional.
(2 in.) from all test specimen edges. Pairs enough laundering ballast pieces to make
6.3 Original Measurements and Speci- a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ±
of benchmarks in the same direction must men Size.
be spaced approximately 120 mm (5 in.) 0.2 lb).
6.3.1 Specimen size and benchmarks 7.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
apart (see Fig. 2 and 12.7). distances used must be indicated in the machine to fill to specified water level.
6.2.2 Option 2: 460-mm (18.0-in.) report. 7.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
benchmarks. Mark each 610 × 610 mm 6.3.2 Dimensional change results may Standard Reference Detergent to washing
(24.0 × 24.0 in.) test specimen with three not be comparable when different speci- machine as directed by washing machine
460-mm (18.0-in.) pairs of benchmarks men sizes, different benchmark lengths, manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent
parallel to the test specimen length and different number of specimens, or differ- is added directly to wash water, agitate
three 460-mm (18.0-in.) pairs of bench- ent number of benchmarks are used. briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi-
marks parallel to the test specimen width. 6.3.3 To improve the accuracy and pre- tation before adding wash load.
Each benchmark must be at least 50 mm cision of the dimensional change calcula- 7.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens
(2.0 in.) from all test specimen edges. tions based on the benchmarks applied to and ballast), distributing evenly around
center agitator. Restart wash cycle.
7.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried
(drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
before the water begins to drain from the
5 in.
final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
(130 mm)
soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
W1 (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
low washing to proceed through the final
spin cycle.
7.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
(130 mm)

rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,

5 in.

L1 L2 L3 taking care to minimize distortion. Pro-

ceed to appropriate drying procedure.
7.2 Drying.
7.2.1 Select drying conditions from Ta-
(250 mm)

ble II.
(380 mm)

10 in.

7.2.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the

15 in.

W2
washed load (test specimens and ballast)
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
ture control to generate the selected cycle
exhaust temperature (see Table III). Al-
low the dryer to run until the load is fully
dry. Remove specimens immediately.
7.2.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each
2.5 in. specimen by two corners, with the fabric
(65 mm) length in the vertical direction. Allow
W3 specimens to hang in still air at room
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F)
2.5 in. until dry. Do not blow air directly on
(65 mm) specimens as it may cause distortion.
7.2.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip-
ping wet specimen by two corners, with
the fabric length in the vertical direction.
Fig. 2—Diagram for placing benchmarks on fabric specimens. Allow specimens to hang in still air at

2 TM135-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.9)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Table II—Standard Drying Conditions Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
(A) Tumble Dry Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
(B) Line/Hang Dry
(C) Drip Dry
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Type 1 Type 3
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
room temperature not greater than 26°C Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
(78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
on specimens as it may cause distortion. Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
7.2.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) 920 × 920 ± 30 mm (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
rated surface, removing wrinkles without Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci-
mens to rest in still air at room tempera-
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until Consequently, caution is advised when ing and drying cycles. Calculate length
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- comparing dimensional change results af- and width averages separately to the
mens as it may cause distortion. ter laundering and hand ironing, reported nearest 0.1%.
7.2.6 For all drying methods, allow by different operators. 9.1.2 If measurements were made to
specimens to dry completely before 7.4.4 After ironing, condition test spec- the nearest millimeter or eight or tenth of
washing again. imens as described in 6.1.6. an inch, calculate the dimensional change
7.2.7 Repeat the selected washing and after the first and third or other specified
drying procedures for a total of 3 com- 8. Measurement washing and drying cycle using equation
plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of 1:
cycles. 8.1 After conditioning, lay each test
7.3 Conditioning. specimen without tension on a flat Average% DC = 100 (B – A)/A (1)
7.3.1 After the final drying cycle is smooth, horizontal surface.
8.2 Measure and record the distance where:
complete, condition test specimens as de- DC = Average dimensional change
scribed in 6.1.6. between each pair of benchmarks to the
nearest millimeter, eighth or tenth of an A = Average original dimension
7.4 Ironing B = Average dimension after laun-
7.4.1 If the specimens are extremely inch. This is measurement B. If using a
scale calibrated in percent dimensional dering
wrinkled and the consumer would AL-
WAYS expect to iron a garment made change, measure each benchmark to
Both the average original and average
from the fabric, test specimens may be nearest 0.5% or smallest increment on the final dimensions are the averages of the
hand ironed prior to re-measurement of scale and record the percent dimensional measurements in each direction made on
benchmarks. change directly. If using a digital imaging
all test specimens. Calculate length and
system, follow manufacturer’s instruc- width averages separately to the nearest
7.4.2 Use safe ironing temperatures ap-
tions. 0.1% (see 12.8).
propriate to the fibers in the fabric being
8.3 The wrinkles in most fabrics flatten
ironed. See TM133, Colorfastness to 9.1.3 A final measurement smaller
sufficiently under pressure of a measur-
Heat: Hot Pressing, Table I, Safe Ironing than the original measurement results in a
ing instrument at the time of measure-
Temperature Guide (see 12.3). Exert the negative dimensional change, which is
ment not to cause measurement bias.
minimum pressure necessary to remove shrinkage. A final measurement larger
wrinkles. 9. Calculation and Interpretation than the original measurement results in a
7.4.3 Due to the extremely high vari- positive dimensional change, which is
ability of hand ironing procedures per- 9.1 Calculation. growth.
formed by individual operators (no stan- 9.1.1 If measurements were made di- 9.2 Interpretation.
dard test method exists for hand ironing rectly in percent dimensional change, av- 9.2.1 If the dimensional change after
procedures), the reproducibility of di- erage the measurements in each direction one full laundering cycle as calculated in
mensional change results after hand iron- made on the specimens after the first, 9.1, is within a specification previously
ing has been found to be extremely poor. third, or other specified number of wash- agreed on, continue test procedures as di-

TM135-2018 3
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
rected in 7.1-7.4 until an agreed upon growth. obtained with a standard load size.
number of cycles has been completed. 10.2.3 Number of measurements (de- 12.3 Materials or drawings are available
9.2.2 If the dimensional change after fault is 9: 3 measurements on each of 3 from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Tri-
one washing, drying, and, if used, hand specimens). angle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141;
fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc.
ironing cycle as calculated in 9.1 exceeds 10.2.4 Distance between original org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
a specification previously agreed on, ter- benchmarks, i.e., 250 mm (Option 1) or 12.4 A digital imaging system may be used
minate the test. 460 mm (Option 2). as a measuring device in place of the pre-
scribed manual measurement devices if it is
10. Report 11. Precision and Bias established that its accuracy is equivalent to
the manual devices.
10.1 Report for each sample tested: 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test 12.5 Available from ASTM International,
10.1.1 A description or identification method has not been established. Until a 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
of the sample. precision statement is generated for this 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
9555; web site: www.astm.org.
10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using test method, use standard statistical tech- 12.6 If excessive fraying occurs in launder-
AATCC Test Method 135-2018. niques in making any comparisons of test ing, specimen edges may be pinked or slashed.
10.1.3 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1 results for either within-laboratory or be- Sewing or over-edging a specimen is not rec-
or Type 3. tween-laboratory averages. ommended as it may influence actual dimen-
10.1.4 Standard detergent used, i.e., 11.2 Bias. Dimensional changes in au- sional change results. However, in the case
AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Deter- tomatic home laundering of fabrics can where TM124 (Smoothness Appearance of
gent with or without optical brightener. be defined only in terms of a test method. Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering) and
There is no independent method for de- TM135 are performed on the same specimens,
10.1.5 Number of laundering cycles some woven fabric constructions may require
(default is 3 cycles, see 9.2). termining the true value. As a means of
the specimen edges to be sewn or over-edged
10.1.6 Laundering conditions, includ- estimating this property, the method has to prevent severe raveling that could cause en-
ing washing machine cycle, wash tem- no known bias. tanglement in washing or drying, and there-
perature, drying procedure and tumble fore influence the assessment of both
drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha- 12. Notes dimensional change and smoothness.
numeric designations may be used if they 12.7 When using the same specimens for
12.1 For potential equipment information TM135 and TM179, extend corner markings
are clearly understood by all parties. For pertaining to this test method, please visit the to form right angles.
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. 12.8 If information on the dimensional
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility change variability within or between speci-
dry cycle. of listing equipment and materials sold by its mens is desired, calculate dimensional change
10.1.7 If fabrics were distorted or wrin- Corporate members, but AATCC does not based on the individual pairs of benchmarks
kled in their original state. qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- for within-specimen data or based on the aver-
10.1.8 If fabrics were hand ironed. tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- age of the three pair of benchmarks for be-
als meets the requirements in its test methods. tween specimen data.
10.1.9 Any modifications of the test
12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and 12.9 The laundering temperatures and other
method. If laundering equipment or con- tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard parameters listed in this test method are stan-
ditions other than those specifically listed parameters, visit www.aatcc. org/test/washers dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
in the test method were used, they must or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Re- most lab procedures, they represent, but may
be described in detail and noted as a mod- search Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919. not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
ification of the standard method (see 549.8141; fax: +1.919. 549.8933; e-mail: tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
12.9). [email protected]. An alternate load size was among households; lab practices must be con-
10.2 Report for each direction: described in previous versions of this method sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
10.2.1 Direction measured, i.e., length (3.6-kg load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC laundering equipment or conditions other than
1993 Standard Reference Detergent), but no those specifically listed in this test method are
or width. machine is reported to meet the standard pa- used, they must be described in detail and
10.2.2 Average dimensional change, to rameters for this load size. In addition, dimen- noted as a modification of the standard
the nearest 0.1%, with a minus sign (-) sional change results obtained with the method. Alternate laundering conditions are
for shrinkage or a plus (+) sign for alternate load size may not be equal to those outlined in LP1 and LP2.

4 TM135-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
AATCC standard for temporary storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or
printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic file may not be
distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be
distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Test Method 143-2018

Appearance of Apparel and Other

Textile End Products after Home Laundering
Developed in 1975 by AATCC Com- specimens with appropriate reference for information purposes only. The pre-
mittee RA61; revised 1982, 1989, 1992, standards. Results may be reported as an cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
1996, 2006, 2010, 2011, 2014, 2018 overall percentile value from 0% to dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
(with title change); editorially revised 100%, with 100% representing the most sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
and reaffirmed 1984, 2001; editorially smoothness and crease retention. Results safe and proper techniques in handling
revised 1986, 1991, 1997, 2004, 2005, may also be reported as separate smooth- materials in this test method. Manufac-
2008, 2012. Technically equivalent to ness appearance (SA), seam smoothness turers MUST be consulted for specific
ISO 15487. (SS) and crease retention (CR) grades. details such as material safety data sheets
All grades may range from 1 to 5, with 1 and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
representing the least smoothness or tions. All OSHA standards and rules
Foreword crease retention and 5 representing the must also be consulted and followed.
most smoothness or crease retention. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
This test method and its accompanying be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
evaluation tools were developed for eval- 3. Terminology laboratory areas.
uation of woven fabrics with a durable- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation.
press finish. It is common industry prac- 3.1 appearance of textile end prod- Care should be taken to prevent exposure
tice to use the method and scales for eval- ucts, n.—the overall visual impression of to skin and eyes.
uation of other textile materials although a textile end product quantified by com- 4.3 All chemicals should be handled
some specimens may have different ap- parison of individual components with with care.
pearance characteristics due to different appropriate reference standards.
fabric constructions. 3.2 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro- 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
Standard laundering procedures remain cessing or testing of textiles, material that dations should be followed when operat-
consistent to allow valid comparison of is used to bring the total weight or vol- ing laboratory testing equipment.
results. Standard procedures represent, ume of the textiles to an amount specified 4.5 When evaluating crease retention,
but may not exactly replicate, current in the procedure. use of a light shield can aid in prevention
consumer practices, which vary over time 3.3 crease retention, n.—in fabrics, of burns that could result from lamp heat.
and among households. Alternate laun- the visual impression of an inserted
dering procedures and machine parame- crease quantified by comparison with a 5. Uses and Limitations
ters may be found in Laboratory Proce- set of reference standards.
dure (LP) 1, Home Laundering: Machine 3.4 durable press, adj.—having the 5.1 This test method is designed to be
Washing (see 12.3). ability to retain substantially the initial used for evaluating the appearance of ap-
shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and parel or other textile end products pro-
unwrinkled appearance during use and duced with washable fabric after home
1. Purpose and Scope laundering. Although this method applies
after laundering or drycleaning.
1.1 This test method is intended to de- 3.5 grade, n.—the number assigned to to laundering of garments, it is acknowl-
termine the smoothness appearance of a test specimen resulting from compari- edged that common industry practice is to
fabric, seams, and pressed-in creases in son to a scale. also rate the product in its original state.
garments and other textile products after 3.6 laundering, n.—of textile mate- 5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
being subjected to home laundering pro- rials, a process intended to remove soils duct the test under relatively severe laun-
cedures. and/or stains by treatment (washing) with dering conditions. It is recognized that
1.2 Any washable textile end product an aqueous detergent solution and nor- special cycles or features are available on
may be evaluated for smoothness appear- mally including rinsing, extracting and current washing machines and dryers to
ance, seam smoothness and crease reten- drying. achieve improved performance on certain
tion using this method. 3.7 laundering creases, n.—sharp items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
1.3 Textile end products containing folds or lines running in any direction in a agitation to protect delicately con-
fabrics of any construction, such as wo- washed or dried specimen. NOTE: Laun- structed items, and durable press cycles,
ven, knit and nonwoven, may be evalu- dering creases are an unintended result of with cool-down or cold rinses and re-
ated according to this method. restricted movement of specimens in a duced spin speeds, to minimize wrin-
1.4 Techniques for seaming and creas- washer or the dryer. kling.
ing are not outlined since the purpose is 3.8 seam smoothness, n.—in fabrics, 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
to evaluate textile end products as they the visual impression of planarity of a mussiness present in textile end products.
will be supplied from manufacturing or seamed specimen quantified by compari- The evaluation process is, however,
as ready for use. son with a set of reference standards. based on the visual appearance of speci-
3.9 smoothness appearance, n.—in mens including such effects.
2. Principle fabrics, the visual impression of planarity 5.4 The evaluation replicas and scales
of a specimen quantified by comparison were created from woven fabrics. It is un-
2.1 Textile end product items are sub- with a set of reference standards. derstood that they do not duplicate other
jected to standard home laundering prac- fabric possibilities (knits, nonwovens).
tices. Appearance of specimens is evalu- 4. Safety Precautions The replicas and scales are to be used as
ated in a standard viewing area by guides that represent various levels of
visually comparing the appearance of NOTE: These safety precautions are smoothness or crease retention.

TM143-2018 1
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 rated shelves (see 12.3) the number of specimens per washer load
6.7 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10 lb ca- to those from one sample.
pacity. 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference machine to fill to specified water level.
Detergent (see 12.3). 8.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
6.9 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type Standard Reference Detergent to washing
3 (see Table V). machine as directed by washing machine
6.10 Evaluation area, as described in manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent
Appendix A. is added directly to wash water, agitate
6.11 AATCC Three-Dimensional briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi-
Smoothness Appearance Replicas, set of tation before adding wash load.
six (see Fig. 1 and 12.3). 8.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens
6.12 AATCC Photographic Seam and ballast), distributing evenly around
Smoothness Scales, for single-and dou- center agitator. Restart wash cycle.
ble-needle seams (see Fig. 2 and 12.3). 8.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried
Fig. 1—AATCC three-dimensional The reproductions shown in Fig. 2 may (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
smoothness appearance replicas. not be used for rating. before the water begins to drain from the
6.13 AATCC Three-Dimensional final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
Crease Replicas, set of five (see Fig. 3 soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
5.5 The interlaboratory reproducibility and 12.3). (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
of the results of this test method depends low washing to proceed through the final
upon mutual agreement by users of the 7. Test Specimens spin cycle.
method on the washing and drying condi- 8.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
tions as outlined in Tables I-IV and the 7.1 For textile end product tests, select rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
weighting factors to use for individual three items for testing. taking care to minimize distortion.
components of the items as described in 7.1.1 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may 8.1.8 Washer creases. Specimens may
9.7.3. be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior be in a folded or creased state after wash-
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing ing. Such folds or creases should be re-
Temperature Guide, in TM133, Color- moved by hand prior to drying.
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1)
fastness to Heat: Hot Pressing (see 12.3).
8.1.9 Proceed to appropriate drying
6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate procedure.
fabric temperature settings. 8. Laundering Procedure 8.2 Hand Washing.
6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta- 8.1 Machine Washing. 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
ble I, 12.2), for machine washing. 8.1.1 Select washing conditions for Table II. Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing. testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rec- of water at this temperature to the wash
6.4 White towels, large enough to ac- ommended. Set washing machine con- tub.
commodate test specimen, any weight, trols to generate the selected cycle pa- 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
for hand washing. rameters. Standard Reference Detergent to wash
6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table 8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist tub.
IV, 12.2) or facilities for drip, screen or of all specimens, plus enough laundering 8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter-
line drying. ballast pieces to make a total load weight gent.
6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi- of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very 8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and
tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo- critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-

A. For single needle seams. B. For double needle seams.

Fig. 2—AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas.

2 TM143-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table II—Standard Hand Washing
and Rinsing Temperatures
Wash Temp, Rinse Temp,
Designation °C (°F) °C (°F)
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir-
ing hand washing.

Table III—Standard Drying Conditions

(A) Tumble Dry
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
(B) Line/Hang Dry
(C) Drip Dry
Fig. 3—AATCC three-dimensional crease replicas. (D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat

lution. Do not twist or wring. water from washed specimen(s). Do not seams, etc. Specimens should generally
8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. wring or twist. be oriented in the direction in which they
8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in 8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci-
detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist procedure. mens over the hanger. Allow specimens
or wring. 8.3 Drying. to hang in still air at room temperature
8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min 8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry.
squeeze in detergent solution. ble III. Do not blow air directly on specimens as
8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash it may cause distortion.
8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess washed load (test specimens and ballast) 8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each
detergent solution. Do not twist or wring. in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera- specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-
8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white ture control to generate the selected cycle rated surface, removing wrinkles without
towel. Empty and rinse wash tub. exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al- distorting or stretching it. Allow speci-
8.2.10 Add 8.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) low the dryer to run until the load is fully mens to rest in still air at room tempera-
of clean water at the specified rinse tem- dry. Remove specimens immediately. ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until
perature (see Table II) to the wash tub. dry. Do not blow air directly on speci-
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each
8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from mens as it may cause distortion.
specimen on an appropriate hanger,
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to straightening and smoothing facings, 8.3.6 For all drying methods, allow
distribute. Do not twist or wring. seams, etc. Specimens should generally specimens to dry completely before
8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. be oriented in the direction in which they washing again.
8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci- 8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci-
rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or mens over the hanger. Allow specimens mens are folded or creased after any dry-
wring. to hang in still air at room temperature ing cycle except the last, rewet and at-
8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry. tempt to remove the creases by ironing
squeeze in rinse water. Do not blow air directly on specimens as with a hand iron at a temperature suitable
8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash it may cause distortion. for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.1),
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess 8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang dripping wet prior to additional laundering cycles. Do
water. Do not twist or wring. specimen on an appropriate hanger, not attempt to remove wrinkles or creases
8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot straightening and smoothing facings, by hand ironing after the final drying cy-

Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.6)

Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

TM143-2018 3
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2) peated with new specimens, taking all
precautions to avoid the occurrence of
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
laundering creases.
Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 9.5 Seam Smoothness.
Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10 9.5.1 Mount the test specimen on the
viewing board with the seam in the verti-
cal direction. Place the appropriate sin-
Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters gle-or double-needle AATCC Photo-
Type 1 Type 3 graphic Seam Smoothness (SS) Scale
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3% beside the specimen to facilitate compar-
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun ative evaluation.
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 9.5.2 Confine observations to the area
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2 influenced by the seam and disregard the
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged appearance of the surrounding fabric.
Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm The Seam Smoothness Scales were pho-
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) tographed from woven fabrics. It is un-
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g derstood that the photographs do not du-
plicate other fabric or seam possibilities.
cle. 9.4 Smoothness Appearance. The scales are to be used as guides that rep-
resent various levels of seam smoothness.
8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and 9.4.1 Mount the test specimen on the 9.5.3 The seam smoothness (SS) grade
drying procedures for a total of 5 com- viewing board with the fabric length in the is that of the Photographic Scale seam
plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of vertical direction. Place the most similar that most nearly matches the appearance
cycles. Three-Dimensional Smoothness Appear- of the test specimen seam.
8.4 Conditioning. ance Replicas on each side of the test spec- 9.6 Crease Retention.
8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is imen to facilitate comparative evaluation.
9.6.1 Mount the test specimen on the
complete, condition test specimens as di- 9.4.2 The Smoothness Appearance viewing board with the crease in the ver-
rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac- Replicas were cast from woven fabrics. It tical direction. Place the most similar
tice for Conditioning and Testing Tex- is understood that the replicas do not du- Three-Dimensional Crease Replicas on
tiles (see 12.4). (Use conditions indicated plicate all possible fabric surfaces. The each side of the test specimen to facilitate
in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate replicas are to be used as guides that comparative evaluation. Mount replicas
conditioning time as indicated in Table 2 represent various levels of fabric smooth- 1, 3 and 5 on the left; mount replicas 2
for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay ness or freedom from wrinkles. The ob- and 4 on the right.
each test specimen flat, separately, on a server should mentally integrate degree 9.6.2 Position the flood lamp with re-
screen or perforated shelf of a condition- and frequency of wrinkles in the speci- flector and light shield in the viewing
ing/drying rack. men to determine a level of smoothness area, as shown in Fig. A2, and used dur-
that can be identified with the SA replica ing the evaluation process.
9. Evaluation number which most nearly represents that 9.6.3 Confine observations to the
smoothness appearance level (see Table crease itself and disregard the appearance
9.1 Three trained observers should VI). of the fabric. The Crease Replicas were
evaluate each test specimen indepen- 9.4.3 The smoothness appearance (SA) cast from woven fabrics. It is understood
dently. grade is that of the Smoothness Appear- that the replicas do not duplicate other
9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci- ance Replica that most nearly matches fabric possibilities (knits, nonwovens).
fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu- the smoothness appearance of the test The replicas are to be used as guides that
minate the viewing area with the over- specimen. Observers may assign a grade represent various levels of fabric creas-
head fluorescent light only. Turn all other midway between those whole-number ing.
lights in the room off except when rating replicas that have no half-number replica 9.6.4 The crease retention (CR) grade
crease appearance. In that case, the floor separating them (SA-1.5, SA-2.5, SA- is that of the Crease Replica that most
lamp with reflector and light shield, posi- 4.5) if the appearance of the test speci- nearly matches the appearance of the test
tioned as shown in Fig. A2, is also re- men warrants it. specimen crease.
quired. 9.4.4 If laundering creases are present 9.7 Appearance of Textile End Prod-
9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in on any specimens to be evaluated, take ucts.
front of the specimen 1219 ± 25 mm (48 care in rating the specimens. Some laun- 9.7.1 The individual components to be
± 1in.) away from the board. It has been dering creases can be disregarded (com- evaluated in each test item shall be deter-
found that normal variations in the height monly called “reading out”). When the mined and entered on a Rating Chart
of the observer above and below the arbi- grade of a laundering-creased specimen (Fig. 4).
trary 1524-mm (60-in.) eye level have no differs from the other specimens by more 9.7.2 If it is desired to designate certain
significant effect on the grade given. than one grade, the test should be re- components as more or less important to
the overall appearance of the item,
weighting factors should be added to the
Table VI—Fabric Smoothness Grades by SA Replica Equivalents Rating Chart.
9.7.3 The weighting factors to be as-
Grade Description signed to each component are:
SA-5 Equivalent to the SA-5 Replica. Very smooth, pressed, finished appearance. 3—Very important to overall item ap-
SA-4 Equivalent to the SA-4 Replica. Smooth, finished appearance. pearance.
SA-3.5 Equivalent to the SA-3.5 Replica. Fairly smooth but nonpressed appearance. 2—Moderately important to overall
SA-3 Equivalent to the SA-3 Replica. Mussed, nonpressed appearance. item appearance.
SA-2 Equivalent to the SA-2 Replica. Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance. 1—Slightly important to overall item
SA-1 Equivalent to the SA-1 Replica. Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled appearance. appearance.

4 TM143-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 10.3.1 A description or identification
of the sample.
10.3.2 Evaluation was using AATCC
Test Method 143-2018.
10.3.3 Number of specimens used.
10.3.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
or Type 3).
10.3.5 Standard detergent used, i.e.,
AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Deter-
gent with or without optical brightener.
10.3.6 Number of laundering cycles
(default is 5 cycles).
10.3.7 Laundering conditions, includ-
ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
perature, drying procedure and tumble
drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha-
numeric designations may be used if they
are clearly understood by all parties. For
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
dry cycle.
10.3.8 Number of observers.
10.3.9 Seam smoothness scale used.
i.e., single-needle or double-needle.
10.3.10 Any modifications of the test
method.
10.3.11 For Option 1, the overall per-
centile value for the item.
10.3.12 For Option 2, the average SA
grade, average SS grade, and average CR
grade, each to the nearest tenth of a
grade.
10.4 If fraying occurs in laundering at
seams or elsewhere within the product,
the location and amount should be noted.

11. Precision and Bias

11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
method has not been established. Until a
precision statement is generated for this
Fig. 4—Rating chart. test method, use standard statistical tech-
niques in making any comparisons of test
results for either within-laboratory or be-
9.7.4 Mount the item on the viewing report average grade for each component tween-laboratory averages.
board so that the center of the area or evaluated in the test item. 11.2 Bias. The appearance of apparel
component to be rated is approximately and other textile end products after home
1524 mm (60 in.) from the floor as illus- 10. Report laundering can be defined only in terms
trated in Fig. A1. Place the appropriate of a test method. There is no independent
replicas or photographs in proper position 10.1 Option 1—Using Weighting Fac- method for determining the true value.
to facilitate comparative evaluation (refer tors—Total the weighting factors as- As a means of estimating this property,
to 9.4, 9.5, or 9.6). signed to each component in the rating the method has no known bias.
9.7.5 If the item is exceptionally large, chart (Fig. 4) and multiply by 5. This
such as a sheet, comforter, bedspread, gives the maximum point value achiev- 12. Notes
curtain or drapery, fold the item length- able by the item. Multiply the average
wise to produce a panel half the original grade recorded for each component by its 12.1 For potential equipment information
assigned weighting factor. Total these pertaining to this test method, please visit the
width. Place this half-panel over a rod so online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at http://
that the fabric length is vertical and the values to obtain the actual point value
www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the pos-
folded item is in equal quarters. The rod achieved by the item. Report, as the per- sibility of listing equipment and materials sold
should be sufficiently long to accommo- centile value of the item, the number ob- by its Corporate members, but AATCC does
date the half-width item. Attach the rod tained by dividing the actual point value not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or
with the large item to the rating board at by the maximum point value achievable certify that any of the listed equipment or ma-
approximately 1829 mm (72 in.) from the and multiplying by 100%. This value is terials meets the requirements in its test meth-
floor. Position the standard replicas or the unit of measure of this test method. ods.
10.2 Option 2—Report average grades 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and
photographs to facilitate comparative
on each individual component of each tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard
evaluation. Evaluate the area across the parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers
full width of the quartered panel at the test item, using the Average Grade col- or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research
same eye level as the replicas. Evaluate umn of the Rating Chart. Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.
all four quarters in the same manner and 10.3 Report for each sample tested: 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@

TM143-2018 5
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
aatcc.org. An alternate load size was described dard conditions for testing purposes. As with fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
in previous versions of this method (3.6-kg most lab procedures, they represent, but may A2 Lighting.
load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC 1993 not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
Standard Reference Detergent), but no ma- tices. Consumer practices vary over time and A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
chine is reported to meet the standard parame- among households; lab practices must be con- fixture (see 12.5).
ters for this load size. In addition, dimensional sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
change results obtained with the alternate load laundering equipment or conditions other than white lamps (without baffle or glass),
size may not be equal to those obtained with a those specifically listed in this test method are A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
standard load size. used, they must be described in detail and (without baffle or glass),
12.3 Materials or drawings available from noted as a modification of the standard
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle method. Alternate laundering conditions are A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: outlined in LP1. A2.2 Incandescent flood lamp, 500
+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; watts, 120 V, C9 filament, 90° flood
web site: www.aatcc.org. Appendix A spread, for crease evaluation.
12.4 Available from ASTM International, Evaluation Area A2.2.1 254-mm (10-in.) aluminum re-
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. flector, for use with flood lamp.
A1 Viewing Board.
9555; web site: www.astm.org. A2.2.2 Light shield.
A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
12.5 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view-
high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide A2.2.3 Position as shown in Fig. A2.
ing laundered specimens is specified in this A2.3 Eliminate all light sources except
method. It is recognized, however, that physi- enough to accommodate scale and speci-
men side by side the specified fluorescent lamps. Use
cal space limitations in certain laboratories
will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip flood lamp for crease evaluation only.
situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3). A3 Walls.
viewing board may be used, but replicas iden- Approximate CIELAB values for the A3.1 It has been the experience of
tified as SA-4, SA-3 and SA-1 should always chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler- many observers that light reflected from
be placed on the left side of the viewing board ance of two units for each parameter is the side walls near the viewing board can
as the board is viewed from the front. Replicas acceptable for the board color in this test interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
identified as SA-5, SA-3.5 and SA-2 should
always be placed on the viewing board to the
method. ommended that the side walls be painted
right side as the board is viewed from the A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
front. other means to secure specimen and scale or that blackout curtains be mounted on
12.6 The laundering temperatures and other such that center of specimen is 1524 mm both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
parameters listed in this test method are stan- (60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be nate the reflective interference.

2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Scale Side View

(93 ± 1 in.) 1524 ± 25 mm
Front View
(60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

Fig. A1—Evaluation area.

6 TM143-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Light Flood lamp
Shield with reflector

Eye Level
1524 ± 25 mm

Abitrary
(60 ± 1 in.)
5°± 0.5°

45°± 1°

1219 ± 25 mm 1829 ± 25 mm
(48 ± 1 in.) (72 ± 1 in.)

Fig. A2—Lighting and viewing arrangement for crease-retention evaluation.

7 TM143-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
AATCC standard for temporary storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or
printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic file may not be
distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be
distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Test Method 150-2018

Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering

Developed in 1977 by AATCC Commit- neric term for changes in length or width 3 (see Table IV).
tee RA42; editorially revised and reaf- of a fabric specimen subjected to speci- 5.7 Indelible ink marking pen (see
firmed 1979, 1984, 1992; editorially fied conditions. The change is usually ex- 12.3) for use with suitable rule, tape,
revised 1983, 1985, 1989, 1990, pressed as a percentage of the initial di- marking template or mechanical marking
1991,1996, 1997, 2004, 2005, 2006, mension of a specimen. device (see 12.3). Sewing thread may be
2008, 2016; revised 1987, 1995, 2001, 3.2 garment, n.—a shaped article of used for making benchmarks.
2003 (with title change), 2010, 2012, textile fabric, or other flexible material, 5.8 Measuring devices.
2018; reaffirmed 2000. Related to ISO intended to cover portions of the human 5.8.1 Tape or rule marked in millime-
3759. body. ters, eighths or tenths of an inch.
3.3 growth, n.—a dimensional change
5.8.2 Tape or ruled template marked
resulting in an increase of length or width
directly in percent dimensional change to
Foreword of a specimen.
0.5% or smaller increment (see 12.3).
3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi-
Although this method calls for mea- als, a process intended to remove soils
surement of dimensional changes in un- and/or stains by treatment (washing) with 6. Test Specimens
seamed areas of garment specimens, re- an aqueous detergent solution and nor-
sults may be affected by garment con- mally including rinsing, extraction and 6.1 Sampling and Preparation.
struction, tensions, sewing threads or drying. 6.1.1 Each garment will be considered
trims in addition to fabric dimensional 3.5 shrinkage, n.—a dimensional a specimen. Garments used as specimens
change. An option is also provided for change resulting in a decrease in the should be representative of the produc-
measuring dimensional change between length or width of a specimen. tion lot. When possible, three specimens
or along garment seams. should be used. One or two specimens
Standard laundering procedures remain may be used when an insufficient number
consistent to allow valid comparison of 4. Safety Precautions of garments is available.
results. Standard procedures represent, 6.1.2 Garments that are distorted in
but may not exactly replicate, current NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre- their unlaundered state due to faulty fab-
consumer practices, which vary over time ric finishing, garment assembly, or pack-
and among households. Alternate laun- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ing may give deceptive dimensional
dering procedures and machine parame- change results when laundered by any
ters may be found in Laboratory Proce- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling procedure. In such cases, it is recom-
dure (LP) 1, Home Laundering: Machine mended that distorted garments not be
Washing and LP2, Home Laundering: materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific tested.
Hand Washing (see 12.3).
details such as material safety data sheets 6.1.3 Prior to marking, condition test
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- specimens as directed in ASTM D1776,
1. Purpose and Scope Standard Practice for Conditioning and
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
1.1 This test method is for the determi- must also be consulted and followed. Testing Textiles (see 12.4). (Use condi-
nation of dimensional (length and width) 4.1 Good laboratory practices should tions indicated in Table 1 for Textiles,
changes of garments when subjected to be followed. Wear safety glasses in all general. Estimate conditioning time as in-
home laundering procedures. Four wash- laboratory areas. dicated in Table 2 for the appropriate fi-
ing temperatures, three agitation cycles, 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. ber content.) Hang each specimen on an
and four drying procedures provide stan- Care should be taken to prevent exposure appropriate hanger. If the garment would
dard parameters to represent common to skin and eyes. not normally be hung on a hanger; e.g.,
home care options. T-shirts, boxer shorts, etc., lay each test
4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
1.2 This method may not be applicable specimen flat, separately, on a screen or
dations should be followed when operat-
to garments made of certain stretch fab- perforated shelves of a conditioning rack.
ing laboratory testing equipment.
rics. 6.2 Marking.
6.2.1 Using Table V as a guide for the
2. Principle 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1) selection of garment specimen areas to
use as measurement sites, place bench-
2.1 Pairs of benchmarks are applied to 5.1 Standard washing machine (see Ta- marks on the garment at the selected lo-
the garment before laundering. The dis- ble I and 12.2). cations. Use at least three length and
tance between each pair is measured be- 5.2 Standard tumble dryer (see Table three width locations for marking bench-
fore laundering and remeasured after a III and 12.2) or facilities for drip/line dry- marks on each garment specimen. Loca-
specified number of standard laundering ing. tion of benchmarks should be as agreed
cycles. Percent change is calculated. A 5.3 Conditioning facilities and condi- upon by the buyer and seller. If garment
negative value indicates shrinkage; a pos- tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo- areas are sufficient, place 460-mm (18.0-
itive value indicates growth. A value rated shelves (see 12.3). in.) benchmarks on the garment. Bench-
close to zero indicates little or no change. 5.4 Balance with at least 5.0-kg or mark distances used will depend on the
10.0-lb capacity. size of the garment. For some garments,
3. Terminology 5.5 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference especially children’s clothing, sufficient
Detergent (see 12.3). area may require shorter benchmarks
3.1 dimensional change, n.—a ge- 5.6 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type such as 250-mm (10.0 -in) or less. Bench-

TM150-2018 1
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.6)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

marks must be at least 25 mm (1 in.) from 7.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried length in the vertical direction. Allow
all edges or seams, except as described in (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle specimens to hang in still air at room
6.2.2. before the water begins to drain from the temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F)
6.2.2 Benchmarks across garment pan- final rinse cycle. Remove specimens until dry. Do not blow air directly on
els (between or along garment seams) are soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble specimens as it may cause distortion.
sometimes used such as, from side seam- (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al- 7.2.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip-
to-side seam, the full length or width of a low washing to proceed through the final ping wet specimen by two corners, with
garment and in other selected garment lo- spin cycle. the fabric length in the vertical direction.
cations. For these types of benchmarks, 7.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa- Allow specimens to hang in still air at
the measurement points should be clearly rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces, room temperature not greater than 26°C
marked. taking care to minimize distortion. Pro- (78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly
6.2.3 Dimensional change results from ceed to appropriate drying procedure. on specimens as it may cause distortion.
different garment sizes, styles and/or 7.2 Drying. 7.2.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each
benchmark lengths may not be comparable. 7.2.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-
6.2.4 Benchmarks distances used must ble II. rated surface, removing wrinkles without
be indicated in the report. distorting or stretching it. Allow speci-
7.2.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the
6.3 Original Measurements. mens to rest in still air at room tempera-
washed load (test specimens and ballast)
6.3.1 To improve the accuracy and pre- ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
cision of the dimensional change calcula- dry. Do not blow air directly on speci-
ture control to generate the selected cycle
tions based on the benchmarks applied to mens as it may cause distortion.
exhaust temperature (see Table III). Al-
the garment in 6.2, measure and record low the dryer to run until the load is fully 7.2.6 For all drying methods, allow
the distance between each pair of bench- dry. Remove specimens immediately. specimens to dry completely before
marks with suitable tape or rule to nearest washing again.
7.2.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each 7.2.7 Repeat the selected washing and
millimeter or eighth or tenth of an inch. specimen by two corners, with the fabric
This is measurement A. If using a cali- drying procedures for a total of 3 com-
brated template for marking and measur- plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of
ing in percent dimensional change di- cycles.
rectly, an initial measurement is not Table II—Standard Drying Conditions 7.3 Conditioning.
needed. (A) Tumble Dry 7.3.1 After the final drying cycle is
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal complete, condition test specimens as de-
7. Laundering Procedure (Aii Tumble Dry Delicate scribed in 6.1.3.
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press 7.4 Ironing.
7.1 Washing. (B) Line/Hang Dry 7.4.1 If the specimens are extremely
7.1.1 Select washing conditions for (C) Drip Dry wrinkled and the consumer would AL-
testing from Table I. Set washing ma- (D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat WAYS expect to iron a garment made
chine controls to generate the selected cy-
cle parameters.
7.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
of all specimens in the sample, plus Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
enough laundering ballast pieces to make
Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
0.2 lb).
7.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
machine to fill to specified water level.
7.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Standard Reference Detergent to washing Type 1 Type 3
machine as directed by washing machine
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
is added directly to wash water, agitate Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi- Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
tation before adding wash load. Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
7.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
and ballast), distributing evenly around (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
center agitator. Restart wash cycle. Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g

2 TM150-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Table V—Examples of Benchmark Locations from the fabric, test specimens may be shrinkage. A final measurement larger
hand ironed prior to re-measurement of than the original measurement results in a
Type of Garment Benchmark Locations benchmarks. positive dimensional change, which is
Shirt Collar 7.4.2 Use safe ironing temperatures ap- growth.
Collar Band propriate to the fibers in the fabric being 9.2 Interpretation.
Body Lengths ironed. See TM133, Colorfastness to 9.2.1 If the dimensional change after
Sleeve Lengths Heat: Hot Pressing, Table I, Safe Ironing one full laundering cycle as calculated in
Width at Chest Temperature Guide (see 12.3). Exert the 9.1, is within a specification previously
Cuffs minimum pressure necessary to remove agreed on, continue test procedure as di-
Trousers Front Rise wrinkles. rected in 7.1-7.4 until an agreed upon
Back Rise
Inseams
7.4.3 Due to the extremely high vari- number of cycles has been completed.
Outseams ability of hand ironing procedures per- 9.2.2 If the dimensional change after
Waist formed by individual operators (no stan- one washing, drying, and, if used, hand
Seat dard test method exists for hand ironing ironing cycle as calculated in 9.1 exceeds
Coveralls Body Lengths procedures), the reproducibility of di- a specification previously agreed on, ter-
Front Rise mensional change results after hand iron- minate the test.
Back Rise ing has been found to be extremely poor.
Inseams Consequently, caution is advised when
Underarm Lengths 10. Report
Sleeve Lengths comparing dimensional change results af-
Shoulder ter laundering and hand ironing, reported 10.1 Report for each sample test:
Waist by different operators. 10.1.1 A description or identification
Chest 7.4.4 After ironing, condition test spec- of the sample.
Seat Width imens as described in 6.1.3. 10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
Boxer Shorts Overall Lengths AATCC Test Method 150-2018.
Front Rise
8. Measurement 10.1.3 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
Back Rise or Type 3.
Waist 10.1.4 Standard detergent used, i.e.,
8.1 After conditioning, lay each gar-
Pajama Top Lengths ment without tension on a flat smooth, AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Deter-
Sleeves
Hem horizontal surface. gent with or without optical brightener.
Chest 8.2 Measure and record the distance 10.1.5 Number of laundering cycles
Pajama Bottom Inseams between benchmarks or between marks (default is 3 cycles, see 9.2).
Lengths made across garment panels to the near- 10.1.6 Laundering conditions, includ-
Hip est millimeter, or eighth or tenth of an ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
Waist inch. This is measurement B. If using a perature, drying procedure and tumble
Shorts Lengths scale calibrated in percent dimensional drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha-
Front Rise change, measure to nearest 0.5% or numeric designations may be used if they
Back Rise smallest increment on the scale and are clearly understood by all parties. For
Leg Width example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
Inseam Width
record the percent dimensional change
Seat Width directly. wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
Waist dry cycle.
Sweater Lengths 9. Calculation and Interpretation 10.1.7 If garments were distorted or
Sleeve Lengths wrinkled in their original state.
Chest 9.1 Calculation. 10.1.8 If garments were hand ironed.
Waist 9.1.1 If measurements were made di- 10.1.9 Any modifications of the test
Shoulders rectly in percent dimensional change, av- method. If laundering equipment or con-
Slip Lengths erage the measurements in each location ditions other than those specifically listed
Hem made on the test garments after the first, in the test method were used, they must
Waist the third, or other specified number of
Hip be described in detail and noted as a mod-
washing and drying cycles. ification of the standard method (see
Blouse Lengths
Sleeve Lengths
9.1.2 If measurements were made to 12.6).
Shoulders the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth 10.2 Report for each garment location:
Chest of an inch (measurement B), calculate the 10.2.1 Direction measured, i.e., length
Waist dimensional change after the first and, or width.
Skirt Lengths the third or other specified washing and 10.2.2 Dimensional change, to the
Hem drying cycle using equation 1: nearest 0.1%, with a minus sign (-) for
Hip shrinkage or a plus (+) sign for growth
Waist % DC = 100 (B – A)/A (1)
(see 12.5).
Uniform/Dress Bodice Lengths 10.2.3 Distance between original
Skirt Lengths where:
Sleeve Lengths DC = Dimensional change benchmarks, i.e., 250 mm or 460 mm.
Shoulders A = Original dimension
Chest B = Dimension after laundering 11. Precision and Bias
Waist
Hip Average the dimensional change for 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
Hem each measurement location made on all method has not been established. Until a
Overalls Lengths test garments. If desired, calculate length precision statement is generated, use
Outseams and width averages separately to nearest standard statistical techniques in making
Front Rise 0.1% (see 12.5). any comparisons of test results for either
Back Rise
Inseams 9.1.3 A final measurement smaller within-laboratory or between-laboratory
Waist than the original measurement results in a averages.
Seat Width negative dimensional change, which is 11.2 Bias. Dimensional changes in au-

TM150-2018 3
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
tomatic home laundering of garments can parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
be defined only in terms of a test method. or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Re- 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
There is no independent method for de- search Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 12.5 If information on the dimensional
termining the true value. As a means of +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e- change variability between specimens is
estimating this property, the method has mail: [email protected]. An alternate load size needed, calculate dimensional change based
no known bias. was described in previous versions of this on the individual pairs of benchmarks.
method (3.6-kg load, 83-L water level, 80 g 12.6 The laundering temperatures and other
AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent), parameters listed in this test method are stan-
12. Notes but no machine is reported to meet the stan- dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
12.1 For potential equipment information dard parameters for this load size. In addition, most lab procedures, they represent, but may
pertaining to this test method, please visit the dimensional change results obtained with the not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. alternate load size may not be equal to those tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility obtained with a standard load size. among households; lab practices must be con-
of listing equipment and materials sold by its 12.3 Materials or drawings are available sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
Corporate members, but AATCC does not from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Tri- laundering equipment or conditions other than
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- angle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; those specifically listed in this test method are
tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- fax: +1.919.549. 8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc. used, they must be described in detail and
als meets the requirements in its test methods. org; web site: www. aatcc.org. noted as a modification of the standard
12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and 12.4 Available from ASTM International, method. Alternate laundering conditions are
tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA outlined in LP1 and LP2.

4 TM150-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
AATCC standard for temporary storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or
printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic file may not be
distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be
distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Laboratory Procedure 1-2018

Home Laundering: Machine Washing

Developed in 2018 by AATCC Commit- 4. Safety Precautions 7.2.1 Using a graduated pail, fill ma-
tee RA88 (supersedes Monograph 6). chine with room-temperature water until
NOTE: These safety precautions are it totals the specified volume.
for information purposes only. The pre- 7.2.2 Vertically, (perpendicularly to
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- water surface), submerge an 1-m ruler
Foreword
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- until it touches the bottom of the machine
This procedure is based on laundering sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use drum. Using a permanent ink marker,
methods and parameters originally devel- safe and proper techniques in handling draw a line on the ruler at the point of
oped as part of various AATCC stan- materials in this procedure. Manufactur- contact with the surface of the water.
dards. As a stand-alone laundering proto- ers MUST be consulted for specific de- Drain water from drum.
col, it may be combined with other test tails such as material safety data sheets 7.2.4 Begin cycle, stopping when fill is
methods, including those for appearance, and other manufacturer’s recommenda- complete (before agitation begins). Use
care label verification, and flammability. tions. All OSHA standards and rules the marked ruler to verify water level.
A procedure for hand laundering may be must also be consulted and followed. Ensure ruler is submerged at the same
found in Laboratory Procedure 2, Home 4.1 Good laboratory practices should place as when it was marked.
Laundering: Hand Washing. be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 7.3 Agitation speed
Standard laundering procedures re- laboratory areas. 7.3.1 To facilitate counting the number
main consistent to allow valid compari- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. of strokes per minute during agitation in
son of results. Standard parameters repre- Care should be taken to protect skin and the wash cycle, tape one end of a short
sent, but may not exactly replicate, eyes from exposure. ruler or rod (approximately 150-mm) to
current consumer practices, which vary 4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- the center point on the top of the agitator
over time and among households. Alter- dations should be followed when operat- or impeller.
nate laundering parameters (water level, ing laboratory testing equipment. 7.3.2 Place a small piece of colored
agitation, temperature, etc.) are updated tape at the free end of the rod.
periodically to more closely mirror con- 5. Uses and Limitations 7.3.3 Begin wash cycle and count the
sumer practices and allow use of avail- number of strokes per minute by focusing
able consumer machines, though differ- 5.1 Standard laundering parameters your eyes on the colored tape.
ent parameters may produce different test represent, but may not exactly replicate, 7.4 Spin speed (rpm)
results. current consumer practices, which vary 7.4.1 Use a tachometer and reflective
over time and among households. Alter- tape to measure the rpm of the machine
1. Purpose and Scope nate laundering parameters (water level, during the spin cycle. Follow the manu-
agitation, temperature, etc.) are updated facturer’s instructions for the tachometer
1.1 This procedure provides standard periodically to more closely mirror con- used.
and alternate home laundering conditions sumer practices and allow use of avail-
using an automatic washing machine. able consumer machines, though differ-
ent parameters may produce different test 8. Specimens
While the procedure includes several op-
tions, it is not possible to include every results. 8.1 Cut and prepare specimens as di-
existing combination of laundering pa- 5.2 Equipment meeting all listed pa- rected in the applicable test method. This
rameters. rameters may not be readily available. laundering procedure may be performed
1.2 This test is applicable to all fabrics on any size or shape specimen(s) with a
and end products suitable for home laun- 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 17.1) total dry mass less than or equal to 1.8 kg
dering. (4.0 lb) or 3.6 kg (8.0 lb).
6.1 Automatic washing machine (see 8.2 If required, condition and evaluate
Tables I, IIA-D, IIIA-C, IVA-B, 17.2). specimens before laundering, as directed
2. Principle
6.2 Tumble dryer (see Table VI, 17.2) in an applicable test method.
2.1 Home laundering procedures, in- or facilities for drip/line/flat drying.
cluding washing in an automatic washing 6.3 1993 AATCC Standard Reference 9. Standard Washing Procedure
machine and several drying methods are Detergent (powder) or AATCC High Ef-
described. Parameters for washing ma- ficiency (HE) Standard Reference Liquid 9.1 Select washing conditions for test-
chines and tumble dryers are also in- Detergent (see 17.3, 17.4). ing from Table I. Set washing machine
cluded. The procedures described herein 6.4 Scale with at least 5.0-kg (10.0-lb) controls to generate the selected cycle pa-
need to be combined with an appropriate capacity. rameters.
test method to obtain and interpret re- 6.5 Laundering ballast Type 1 or Type 9.2 Load for laundering shall consist of
sults. 3 (see Table VII). all specimens in the sample, plus enough
laundering ballast pieces to make a total
3. Terminology 7. Verification load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb).
9.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
3.1 laundering, n.—of textile materi- 7.1 Verify top-loading washing ma- machine to fill to water level specified in
als, a process intended to remove soils chine parameters before running a test, or Table I.
and/or stains by treatment (washing) with at minimum, once a year. No laboratory 9.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC
an aqueous detergent solution and nor- verification methods are currently avail- Standard Reference Detergent to washing
mally including rinsing, extraction and able for front loading machines. machine as directed by washing machine
drying. 7.2 Water level verification manufacturer’s instructions. (Do not use

LP1-2018 1
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
The temperatures in this table are similar to those specified by the US Federal Trade Commission for care label verification (see Table VIII). Due to US Department of Energy
requirements, many consumer washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Table IIA—Alternate Laundering Parameters (Traditional Top-loading Washing Machines 2000-2008)

Cycle Normal Delicate Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 1.8-kg load 68 ± 4 (18 ± 1) 68 ± 4 (18 ± 1) 68 ± 4 (18 ± 1)
3.6-kg load 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1) 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1) 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min.18 179 ± 2 119 ± 2 179 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 12 ± 1 8±1 10 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 645 ± 15 430 ± 15 430 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 6±1 6±1 4±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5)
Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
Rinse Temp. Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F) Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F) Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F)
Other: < 29°C (< 85°F) Other: < 29°C (< 85°F) Other: < 29°C (< 85°F)

Table IIB—Alternate Laundering Parameters (Traditional Top-loading Washing Machines 2009-2010)

Cycle Normal Delicate Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 68 ± 4 (18 ± 1)
1.8-kg load 68 ± 4 (18 ± 1) 68 ± 4 (18 ± 1)
3.6-kg load 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1) 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1) 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1)
Agitation Speed,1 strokes/min. 179/119 ± 2 119 ± 2 179/119 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 12 (6 at stepdown agitation) ± 1 6±1 9 (3 at stepdown agitation) ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 645 ± 15 430 ± 15 430 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 6±1 3±1 4±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5)
Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
Rinse Temp. Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F) Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F) Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F)
Other: < 29°C (< 85°F) Other: < 29°C (< 85°F) Other: < 29°C (< 85°F)
1
Around 2009-2010, many of the top selling vertical axis washing machines featured a step-down agitation that started at a higher agitation (e.g., 179 spm) and then changed
to a lower agitation (e.g., 119 spm) during the cycle.

Table IIC—Alternate Laundering Parameters (Traditional Top-loading Washing Machines 2011-2012)

Cycle Normal Delicate Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal)
1.8-kg load 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
3.6-kg load 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1) 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1) 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) Very Cold: 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5)
Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
Rinse Temp. Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F) Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F) Very Cold: < 18°C (< 65°F)
Other: < 29°C (< 85°F) Other: < 29°C (< 85°F) Other: < 29°C (< 85°F)

2 LP1-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table IID—Alternate Laundering Parameters AATCC High Efficiency (HE) Standard
(Traditional Top-loading Washing Machines 2013-2017) Reference Liquid Detergent for standard
Cycle Normal Delicate washing procedure.)
9.4.1 If detergent is added directly to
Water Level, L (gal)
wash water, agitate briefly to dissolve
1.8-kg load 72 ± 8 (19 ± 2) 72 ± 8 (19 ± 2)
completely. Stop agitation before adding
3.6-kg load 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1) 83 ± 4 (22 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 5 27 ± 5
wash load.
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 2 8.5 (5: integrated soak) ± 1 9.5 Add wash load (test specimens and
Number of Rinses 1 1 ballast), distributing evenly around center
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 agitator. Restart wash cycle.
Final Spin Time, min. 5-10 5-10 9.6 For specimens to be drip dried
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
Warm: 30 ± 4.2 (86 ± 7.5) Warm: 30 ± 4.2 (86 ± 7.5) before the water begins to drain from the
Hot: 44 ± 4.2 (111 ± 7.5) Hot: 44 ± 4.2 (111 ± 7.5) final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
Very Hot: 54 ± 4.2 (130 ± 7.5) Very Hot: 54 ± 4.2 (130 ± 7.5) soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
Rinse Temp. (see 17.5) Tap Cold Tap Cold (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
low washing to proceed through the final
spin cycle.
9.7 After each washing cycle, separate
tangled specimens and ballast pieces, tak-
Table IIIA—Alternate Laundering Parameters ing care to minimize distortion. Proceed
(High-efficiency Top-loading Washing Machines 2013-2017) to appropriate drying procedure.
Cycle Normal Delicate
10. Alternate Laundering Procedure
Water Level, L (gal) 30 ± 8 (8 ± 2) 57 ± 4 (15 ± 1)
(Traditional Top-loading Washing
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 60 ± 5 75 ± 5
Machines)
Washing Time, min. 11 ± 2 9±2
Number of Rinses 1 1 10.1 Select washing conditions for
Final Spin Speed, rpm 770 ± 20 500 ± 20 testing from Tables IIA-D. Set washing
Final Spin Time, min. 5-18 5-10 machine controls to generate the selected
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) cycle parameters.
Warm: 24 ± 4.2 (75 ± 7.5) Warm: 24 ± 4.2 (75 ± 7.5) 10.2 Load for laundering shall consist
Hot: 35 ± 4.2 (95 ± 7.5) Hot: 35 ± 4.2 (95 ± 7.5) of all specimens in the sample, plus
Very Hot: 54 ± 4.2 (130 ± 7.5) Very Hot: 54 ± 4.2 (130 ± 7.5)
enough laundering ballast pieces to make
Rinse Temp. (see 17.5) Tap Cold Tap Cold
a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ±
0.2 lb) or 3.6 ± 0.1 kg (8.0 ± 0.2 lb).
10.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
machine to fill to specified water level.
Table IIIB—Alternate Laundering Parameters
10.4 Add detergent to washing ma-
(High-efficiency Top-loading Washing Machines, Agitator Style, 2018)
chine as directed by washing machine
manufacturer’s instructions.
Cycle Normal Delicate 10.4.1 If detergent is added directly to
Water Level, L (gal) 68 ± 8 (18 ± 2) 68 ± 8 (18 ± 2) wash water, agitate briefly to dissolve
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 60 ± 5 70 ± 5 completely. Stop agitation before adding
Washing Time, min. 14 ± 2 8±2 wash load.
Number of Rinses 1 1 10.4.2 For 1.8-kg load, use 66 ± 1 g of
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 20 660 ± 20 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Deter-
Final Spin Time, min. 5-10 1-6 gent or 50 ± 1 mL of AATCC High Effi-
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Tap Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) Tap Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) ciency (HE) Standard Reference Liquid
Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) Detergent.
Warm: 35 ± 4.2 (95 ± 7.5) Warm: 30 ± 4.2 (86 ± 7.5) 10.4.3 For 3.6-kg load, use 80 ± 1 g of
Hot: 54 ± 4.2 (130 ± 7.5) Hot: 54 ± 4.2 (130 ± 7.5) 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Deter-
gent or 50 ± 1 mL of AATCC HE Stan-
dard Reference Liquid Detergent. Addi-
tional HE detergent is not required for
larger load.
Table IIIC—Alternate Laundering Parameters 10.5 Add wash load (test specimens
(High-efficiency Top-loading Washing Machines, Impeller Style, 2018) and ballast), distributing evenly around
Cycle Normal Delicate center agitator. Restart wash cycle.
Water Level, L (gal) 44 ± 8 (11.5 ± 2) 68 ± 8 (18 ± 2) 10.6 For specimens to be drip dried
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 60 ± 5 70 ± 5 (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
Washing Time, min. 14 ± 2 8±2 before the water begins to drain from the
Number of Rinses 1 1 final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 20 500 ± 20 soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
Final Spin Time, min. 5-10 1-6 (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Tap Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) Tap Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) low washing to proceed through the final
Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) Cold: 16 ± 4.2 (60 ± 7.5) spin cycle.
Warm: 35 ± 4.2 (95 ± 7.5) Warm: 30 ± 4.2 (86 ± 7.5) 10.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
Hot: 54 ± 4.2 (130 ± 7.5) Hot: 44 ± 4.2 (111 ± 7.5) rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,

LP1-2018 3
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table IVA—Alternate Laundering Parameters (High-efficiency Front-loading Washing Machines Prior to 2013)
Cycle Normal Delicate Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 22 ± 4 (5.75 ± 1) 22 ± 4 (5.75 ± 1) 22 ± 4 (5.75 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, rpm 40 ± 10 30 ± 10 30 ± 10
Washing Time, min. 18 ± 1 14 ± 1 16 ± 1
Number of Rinses 2 2 2
Final Spin Speed, rpm 1100 ± 100 400 ± 100 800 ± 100
Final Spin Time, min. 9.5 ± 1 3±1 6±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Cold: 16 ± 2.9 (60 ± 5) Cold: 16 ± 2.9 (60 ± 5) Cold: 16 ± 2.9 (60 ± 5)
Warm: 25 ± 2.9 (77 ± 5) Warm: 25 ± 2.9 (77 ± 5) Warm: 25 ± 2.9 (77 ± 5)
Hot: 35 ± 2.9 (95 ± 5) Hot: 35 ± 2.9 (95 ± 5) Hot: 35 ± 2.9 (95 ± 5)
Very Hot: 54 ± 2.9 (130 ± 5) Very Hot: 54 ± 2.9 (130 ± 5) Very Hot: 54 ± 2.9 (130 ± 5)
Rinse Temp. (see 17.5) Tap Cold Tap Cold Tap Cold

Table IVB—Alternate Laundering Parameters taking care to minimize distortion. Pro-

(High-efficiency Front-loading Washing Machines 2013-2017) ceed to appropriate drying procedure.
Cycle Normal Delicate
Water Level, L (gal) 15 ± 4 (4 ± 1) 17 ± 4 (4.5 ± 1) 11. Alternate Laundering Procedure
Agitation Speed, rpm 45 ± 10 40 ± 10 [High-efficiency (HE) Washing
Washing Time, min. 11 ± 1 11 ± 1 Machines]
Number of Rinses 2 2
Final Spin Speed, rpm 1300 ± 150 400 ± 150 11.1 Select washing conditions for
Final Spin Time, min. 12-18 11-17 testing. Set washing machine controls to
Wash Temp, °C (°F) Cold: 16 ± 2.9 (60 ± 5) Cold: 16 ± 2.9 (60 ± 5) generate the selected cycle parameters.
Warm: 25 ± 2.9 (77 ± 5) Warm: 25 ± 2.9 (77 ± 5) 11.1.1 For HE top-loading washing
Hot: 35 ± 2.9 (95 ± 5) Hot: 35 ± 2.9 (95 ± 5) machines, use parameters from Tables
Very Hot: 54 ± 2.9 (130 ± 5) Very Hot: 54 ± 2.9 (130 ± 5) IIIA-C.
Rinse Temp. (see 17.5) Tap Cold Tap Cold 11.1.2 For HE front-loading washing
machines, use parameters from Tables
IVA-B.
Table V—Standard Drying Conditions 11.2 Load for laundering shall consist
(A) Tumble Dry
of all specimens in the sample, plus
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal enough laundering ballast pieces to make
(Aii) Tumble Dry Delicate a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ±
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press 0.2 lb) or 3.6 ± 0.1 kg (8.0 ± 0.2 lb).
(B) Line/Hang Dry 11.3 Add 50 ± 1 mL of AATCC High
(C) Drip Dry Efficiency (HE) Standard Reference Liq-
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat uid Detergent as directed by washing ma-
chine manufacturer’s instructions. Use
the same amount of detergent and same
Table VI—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters water level for 1.8-kg load or 3.6-kg load.
Use only detergent specifically formu-
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press lated for use in HE machines.
Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 11.4 Add wash load (test specimens,
Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10 then ballast), distributing evenly around
center agitator or impeller for top-loading
machines. Begin selected wash cycle.
Table VII—Laundering Ballast Parameters 11.5 For specimens to be drip dried,
stop wash cycle before the water begins
Type 1 Type 3 to drain from the final rinse cycle. Re-
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3% move specimens soaking wet. For speci-
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun mens to be tumble, line, or screen (flat)
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave dried, allow washing to proceed through
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2 the final spin cycle.
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged 11.6 After each washing cycle, sepa-
Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g taking care to minimize distortion. Pro-
ceed to appropriate drying procedure.

Table VIII—Water Temperatures Published by US Federal Trade Commission1 12. Standard Drying Procedures
Designation Initial Wash Temp, °C (°F) 12.1 Select drying conditions from Ta-
Cold ≤ 30 (≤ 86) ble V.
Warm 31-44 (87-111) 12.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the
Hot 45-63 (112-145) washed load (test specimens and ballast)
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
1
Refer to 16 CFR, Part 423, Appendix A for current care label temperature ranges. ture control to generate the selected cycle

4 LP1-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 Table VIII—Water Temperatures Published by US Federal Trade Commission1 ture designations, it is recommended to
Designation Initial Wash Temp, °C (°F) include the specific tables referenced for
washing and tumble drying parameters.
Cold ≤ 30 (≤ 86)
Warm 31-44 (87-111)
Hot 45-63 (112-145) 16. Precision and Bias
1
Refer to 16 CFR, Part 423, Appendix A for current care label temperature ranges. 16.1 Precision and Bias statements are
not applicable because data are not gener-
ated by this procedure.
exhaust temperature (see Table VI). Al- 12.6 Allow specimens to dry com-
low the dryer to run until the load is fully pletely before washing again. 17. Notes
dry. Remove specimens immediately. 12.7 Repeat the selected washing and 17.1 For potential equipment information
12.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each drying procedures for an agreed upon pertaining to this procedure, please visit the
fabric specimen by two corners, with the number of cycles. online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
fabric length in the vertical direction. aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
Hang product specimens on an appropri- 13. Ironing of listing equipment and materials sold by its
ate hanger, straightening and smoothing Corporate members, but AATCC does not
facings, seams, etc. Product specimens 13.1 No standard test method exists for qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
hand ironing and procedures performed tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
should generally be oriented in the direc- als meets the requirements in its test methods.
tion in which they are used. Do not fold by individual operators have extremely
high variability. Follow guidance of ap- 17.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and
or stretch specimens over the hanger. Al- tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the parame-
low specimens to hang in still air at room plicable standard regarding hand ironing.
ters in Tables I-V, visit www.aatcc.org/test/
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) If no guidance is provided, hand iron washers or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,
until dry. Do not blow air directly on prior to evaluation only if specimens are Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
specimens as it may cause distortion. extremely wrinkled and the consumer +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933. Cy-
12.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang dripping wet would always expect to iron the fabric or cle and temperature names on machines may
fabric specimens by two corners, with the end product. not match those in the tables. Where possible,
fabric length in the vertical direction. 13.1.1 If specimens are to be hand setting information is also provided online.
Hang dripping wet product specimens on ironed, use safe ironing temperatures ap- 17.3 Materials or drawings are available
propriate to the fibers in the fabric being from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Tri-
appropriate hangers, straightening and angle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141;
smoothing facings, seams, etc. Speci- ironed. See Table I, Safe Ironing Temper-
ature Guide, in TM133, Colorfastness to fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc.
mens should generally be oriented in the org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
direction in which they are worn. Do not Heat: Hot Pressing (see 17.3). Exert the
17.4 Detergent with or without optical
fold or stretch specimens over the hanger. minimum pressure necessary to remove brightener may be used for this procedure. Re-
Allow specimens to hang in still air at wrinkles. fer to applicable test method for guidance on
room temperature not greater than 26°C selecting a detergent. If no guidance is given,
(78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly 14. Evaluation use detergent without optical brightener for all
on specimens as it may cause distortion. colorfastness evaluations.
14.1 If required, condition and evaluate 17.5 Tap Cold rinse temperature is not
12.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each specimens as directed by the applicable meant to be controlled. Tap cold is equivalent
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- test method. to the temperature of water entering the home,
rated surface, removing wrinkles without which is dependent upon geography and time
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci- 15. Report of year. In the extreme, water temperatures in
mens to dry in still air at room tempera- consumer homes can vary from 4°C to 49°C
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until 15.1 Report specific laundering condi- (40°F to 120°F); however, on average, these
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- tions as directed by applicable test temperatures vary from 13°C to 24°C (55°F to
mens as it may cause distortion. method. In addition to cycle and tempera- 75°F).

LP1-2018 5
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection
with any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that
determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such
rights, are entirely their own responsibility.

This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and
must be reviewed every five years and if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional procedures and
should be addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful
consideration at a meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend. If
you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your views
known to Diana A. Wyman, Technical Director, at the address shown below.

This standard is copyrighted by AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709
USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by
contacting AATCC at the above address or tel: 919-549-3526; fax: 919-549-8933, or e-mail:
[email protected].

AATCC License Agreement: This tstandard is copyrighted by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle
Park, NC USA. All rights reserved.

AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download one electronic file of this
AATCC standard for temporary storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or
printing one copy of the AATCC standard for individual use. Neither the electronic file nor the
hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In addition, the electronic file may not be
distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may only be
distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.

This standard is not for resale.

AATCC Laboratory Procedure 2-2018

Home Laundering: Hand Washing

Developed in 2018 by AATCC Commit- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. towel. Empty and rinse wash tub.
tee RA88 (supersedes Monograph 5). Care should be taken to protect skin and 8.10 Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) of
eyes from exposure. clean water at the specified rinse temper-
ature (see Table I) to the wash tub.
Foreword 5. Uses and Limitations 8.11 Place washed specimen(s) from
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to
This procedure is based on laundering 5.1 Standard laboratory laundering distribute. Do not twist or wring.
methods originally developed as part of procedures represent, but may not exactly 8.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
various AATCC standards. As a stand- replicate, current consumer practices, 8.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
alone laundering protocol, this procedure which vary over time and among house- rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or
may be combined with other test meth- holds. wring.
ods, including those for appearance and 5.2 Tumble and drip drying procedures 8.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
care label verification. Procedures for are not included herein as they are not squeeze in rinse water.
home laundering using an automatic commonly used for delicate items that 8.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash
washing machine may be found in Labo- may be hand washed. tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
ratory Procedure 1, Home Laundering: water. Do not twist or wring.
Machine Washing. 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 13.1)
9. Standard Drying Procedure
1. Purpose and Scope 6.1 Wash tub, 9.5-L.
6.2 White towels, large enough to ac- 9.1 Using clean white towels, blot wa-
1.1 This procedure provides standard commodate test specimen, any weight. ter from washed specimen(s). Do not
home laundering conditions using hand 6.3 Appropriate hangers, for hang dry- wring or twist.
washing and line or flat drying. ing. 9.2 Line/Hang Dry. Hang each fabric
1.2 This test is applicable to all fabrics 6.4 Drying racks with pull-out, perfo- specimen by two corners, with the fabric
and end products suitable for hand wash- rated shelves, for drying flat (see 13.2). length in the vertical direction. Hang
ing with detergent. 6.5 1993 AATCC Standard Reference product specimens on an appropriate
Detergent (see 13.2, 13.3). hanger, straightening and smoothing fac-
ings, seams, etc. Product specimens
2. Principle
7. Specimens should generally be oriented in the direc-
2.1 Home laundering procedures, in- tion in which they are worn. Do not fold
7.1 Cut and prepare specimens as di- or stretch specimens over the hanger. Al-
cluding hand washing, hang drying, and
rected in the applicable test method. This low specimens to hang in still air at room
flat drying are provided. The procedures
laundering procedure may be performed temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F)
described herein need to be combined
on any size or shape specimen(s) with a until dry. Do not blow air directly on
with an appropriate test method to obtain
total dry mass less than or equal to 0.7 kg specimens as it may cause distortion
and interpret results.
(1.5 lb). 9.3 Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each spec-
7.2 If required, condition and evaluate imen on a horizontal screen or perforated
3. Terminology specimens before laundering, as directed surface, removing wrinkles without dis-
in an applicable test method. torting or stretching it. Allow specimens
3.1 laundering, n.—of textile materi-
als, a process intended to remove soils to lie in still air at room temperature not
and/or stains by treatment (washing) with
8. Standard Washing Procedure greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry. Do
an aqueous detergent solution and nor- not blow air directly on specimens as it
8.1 Select washing temperature from may cause distortion.
mally including rinsing, extraction and Table I. Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) of
drying. water at this temperature to the wash tub.
8.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC
4. Safety Precautions Standard Reference Detergent to wash
tub. Table I—Standard Washing
8.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter- and Rinsing Temperatures1
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre- gent. Wash Temp, Rinse Temp,
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 8.4 Add specimen(s) to solution and Designation °C (°F) °C (°F)
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- gently squeeze to distribute detergent so- Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use lution. Do not twist or wring.
safe and proper techniques in handling 8.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
materials in this procedure. Manufactur- 8.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in de- Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
ers MUST be consulted for specific de- tergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist or Hot2 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
tails such as material safety data sheets wring.
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 8.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min 1
The temperatures in this table are similar to those
tions. All OSHA standards and rules squeeze in detergent solution. specified by the US Federal Trade Commission for
must also be consulted and followed. 8.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash care label verification (see 16 CFR, Part 423, Appen-
dix A).
4.1 Good laboratory practices should tub and gently squeeze to remove excess 2
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all detergent solution. Do not twist or wring. hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir-
laboratory areas. 8.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white ing hand washing.

LP2-2018 1
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 als meets the requirements in its test methods.
9.4 Allow specimens to dry completely number of complete cycles, and drying 13.2 Materials or drawings are available
before washing again. procedure (hang or flat). from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Tri-
9.5 Repeat the selected washing and angle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141;
drying procedures for an agreed upon 12. Precision and Bias fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc.
number of cycles. org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
12.1 Precision and Bias statements are 13.3 1993 AATCC Standard Reference De-
not applicable because data are not gener- tergent with or without optical brightener may
10. Evaluation ated by this procedure. be used for this procedure. Refer to applicable
test method for guidance on selecting a deter-
10.1 If required, condition and evaluate gent. If no guidance is given, use detergent
specimens as directed by the applicable 13. Notes without optical brightener for all colorfastness
test method. evaluations. Consumer detergents specifically
13.1 For potential equipment information formulated for use in hand washing may be
pertaining to this procedure, please visit the used with prior agreement among all inter-
11. Report online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. ested parties. The use of such detergents may
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility increase between laboratory variability. Even
11.1 Report specific laundering condi- of listing equipment and materials sold by its if all comparison testing is done in one labora-
tions as directed by applicable test Corporate members, but AATCC does not tory, repeatability may be lessened by use of
method. It is recommended to report, at a qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- such detergents due to formulation changes to
minimum, wash and rinse temperature, tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- meet market or consumer demands.

2 LP2-2018
Copyright © 2018 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists