3072

Common
Projects
and
Repairs
bert Wood

HOME
ELECTR
WIRIN
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HOME
ELECTRICAL

Common Projects and Repairs

 No. 3072
$24.95

HOME
ELECTRICAL

Common Projects and Repairs

Robert Wood

TAB BOOKS Inc.

TAB Blue Ridge Summit, PA
FIRST EDITION
FIRST PRINTING

Copyright © 1988 by TAB BOOKS Inc.

Printed in the United States of America

Reproduction or publication of the content in any manner, without express

permission of the publisher, is prohibited. No liability is assumed with respect
to the use of the information herein.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Wood, Robert W., 1933-

Home electrical wiring made easy.

Includes index.
1. Electric wiring, Interior. I. Title.
TK3285.W66 1988 621.319"24 88-24781
ISBN 0-8306-0372-7
ISBN 0-8306-9372-6 (pbk.)

TAB BOOKS Inc. offers software for

sale. For information and a catalog,
please contact TAB Software Department,
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0850.

Questions regarding the content of this book

should be addressed to:

Reader Inquiry Branch

TAB BOOKS Inc.
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0214
Notices

National Electrical Code is a registered trademark of the National Fire

Protection Association.
Wiggy and Qwik-Gard are registered trademarks of the Square D Company.
Signal-Block a registered trademark of Stanley Automatic Openers.
is

Light Maker, Signal-Block, and U-lnstall are registered trademarks of Stanley

Automatic Openers.

Disclaimer

It the intent of the author that the information presented is accurate and
is

however, because of the nature of electricity, neither the author or

reliable;
TAB BOOKS Inc. is liable with respect to the use of the information contained
herein.
 Contents
Acknowledgments ix

Introduction xiii

1 Electricity and Safety 1

Sources of Electrical Energy— The Generator Effect: How We

Make Electricity— Power Distribution: Getting Electricity to Our
Homes— Putting Electricity to Work— Grounds and Shock
Hazards

2 Staying Safe and Legal 21

Doing Your Own Wiring— Wire and Cable Sizes— The Color
Code— Cable and Circuit Protection— Ground-Fault Detection

3 Basic Circuits 33
Delivery Power— Branch Circuits— Circuit Breakers and Fuses

4 Tools for the Job 55

5 Wiring Outlets and Overhead Fixtures 65

Mounting Boxes— Mounting Switches and Receptacles-
Lights— Ceiling Fans
 6 Thermostats, Door Chimes,
and Outdoor Lighting 91
Thermostat Circuit Hookup — Door Chime Circuit and Trans-
—
former Yard Lights

7 Upgrading an Existing Service 105

Smoke Detectors— Dimmer Switches— Three-Way Switches—
Timers— Installing Ground-Fault Interrupters— Connecting to
Circuit Breakers

8 Automatic Garage Doors 125

Typical Parts and Assembly— Adding Lights

9 Adding a Shop Circuit 135

10 Adding Telephone Jacks 143

Telephone Services and Voltages— Circuit Connections

11 Troubleshooting Techniques 155

Locating Problem
the Circuit— Common Problems and
Faults— Overloads

Appendix: Material Costs 167

Glossary 173

Index 179
 Acknowledgments
It is with sincere appreciation that I thank the following people and
businesses for their contributions in the writing of this book:

Rodney B. Beus, Fairmont Electric Service, Boise, Idaho

Square D Company, Lexington, Kentucky
Thomas Industries, Inc., Louisville, Kentucky
Salt River Project, Phoenix, Arizona
Paragon Electric Company, Two Rivers, Wisconsin
Stanley Automatic Openers, Detroit, Michigan

IX
HOME
ELECTRICAL

Common Projects and Repairs

 Introduction
I HE RESIDENTIAL USES OF ELECTRICITY ARE INCREASING AND NORMALLY
provide many years of satisfactory service. Often our needs change or
we find areas in our electrical service that need to be upgraded or
expanded. The field of electricity is varied and complex, and most
electricians spend about four years as an apprentice learning their craft.
Good pay scale because of their
electricians are in the upper part of the
training and experience. They work fast and efficiently. As a homeowner,
however, you can take your time and refer to reference material. With a
good basic understanding and good work habits, you will be able to make
electrical repairs, improve your present wiring, or expand an existing ser-

vice. This book was written to provide the information to perform these jobs.

You should plan your projects well and coordinate them with the local
electrical inspector. Obtain any necessary permits to satisfy building codes.
Most people are pleasantly surprised just how simple and easy electrical
wiring is. It is important to use the proper materials— this makes the job
easier. Anything else just complicates matters.
Although electricity is a science, technical terminology in this book
has been kept to a minimum, and illustrations are liberally used. This

should enable anyone who is handy with tools to enjoy the

just a little

satisfaction and save a considerable amount of money by doing his own

electrical work. For some, money alone might not be a factor. The immense

satisfaction of a job well done is motivation enough.

XIII
 1

Electricity & Safety

An afternoon buildup of clouds suggested some relief from
the summer's heat, butnow they continue to grow larger, their bases
darkening with moisture. Thunder follows the brief flashes of light-
ning. In one area suddenly go out.
of the city, lights flicker then
Television sets go dead. Even time seems to stand still as electric
clocks cease their counting. Cash registers in stores refuse to
operate, traffic lights are out, and even gas stations are unable to
pump fuel. The power company quickly dispatches crews to restore
service, while temperatures in refrigerators and freezers begin to
inch upward.
Though almost everyone has experienced this situation
rare,
at some time or other. It strongly emphasizes and reminds us of
just how much we depend on electrical energy.
This little-understood phenomenon is the heart of our economy,
providing a variety of jobs and electrical servants in our homes, and
in general making possible a very comfortable life-style. We need
tohave a better understanding of this strange energy that provides
us with so much power so efficiently.

SOURCES OF ELECTRICAL ENERGY

Our everyday knowledge of electrical energy is based more
on what it does, than on what it is. The basic form of electrical energy
is of little be beneficial, it must be changed into some
use. For it to

other type of energy. An electric iron is able to operate when

electrical energy is converted into heat. If you apply a current to
an electric motor, the electrical energy is changed to mechanical
energy. Electrical energy is changed into light because of the re-
sistance of the filament in a light bulb to electrical current. When
an automobile battery is being charged, electrical energy is

changing to chemical energy.

Electricity is much easier to use than other types of energy.
It moves great distances almost instantly. It is a clean, safe form
of energy, and as convenient as the nearest light switch.
The source of electrical energy is in the atom (Fig. 1-1). All
matter is made up of atoms, and atoms are made up of particles
called protons, neutrons, and electrons. In this book, our interest
is in the electrons. Electrons are usually confined to a single atom;
however, some can and do move from one atom and to another,
they are called free electrons. Copper, steel, and aluminum atoms
have many free electrons. Consequently, these metals are good
conductors of electricity, with copper being the best of the three
(Fig. 1-2). Atoms found in materials such as rubber, plastic, paper,

and wood have little or no free electrons. These materials will not
conduct electricity efficiently, so are classified as insulators.

Fig. 1-1. One electron in orbit around one proton in an atom of hydrogen.

2
 2 electrons
in orbit

, 9 (29.) ,

18 electrons —^>' ^ ^-^ V^

in orbit \
8 electrons
in orbit

Fig. 1-2. Atomic structure: (A) Carbon atom with 6 protons in the nucleus and 6 orbiting electrons. (B) Cop-
per atom with 29 protons and 29 orbiting electrons.

Electricity is everywhere. The most spectacular example is

found in the atmosphere as lightning, but you also can feel it in

your body as static electricity when you walk across some types
of new carpet and then touch a metal door knob. Electricity is

colorless, and odorless; it has no size or weight. Electricity, it turns

out, is simply a silent stream of electrons in motion. This motion
occurs when the balancing force between the protons and electrons
is upset by another force. While the electrons in the atoms are
moving, they can transmit an electrical charge through solids such
as metals and thereby produce an electrical current.
There are two types of electrical current, the simplest being
direct current, or dc (Fig. 1-3A), which is generally provided by
batteries. In direct current, the current flows only in one direction.
If on the other hand, current flows first in one direction and then

the other, the current is said to be alternating (Fig. 1-3B).

Alternating current (ac) is the type of current we use in our
homes and is generated by the utility companies. Current flowing
in the homes and factories throughout the United States reverses
 + dc voltage

+
A. -t-

Time

V-i

ac voltage

B.
O Time

Fig 1-3. Comparing a dc voltage with an ac voltage. (A) a dc waveform showing

a steady dc voltage with one polarity. (B) An ac waveform, or sine-wave, showing
an alternating voltage reversing polarity.

itself 120 times a second. It tal^es two reversals to create or make

up a cycle (Fig. 1-4). All homes in tlie United States operate on tlie

same frequency: alternating current of 60 cycles per second. This

frequency is called the hertz, and refers to the number of cycles
per second.

THE GENERATOR EFFECT-

HOW WE MAKE ELECTRICITY
In 1820, Hans Christian Oersted of Denmarl< discovered that
a strange thing happens when current flows through a wire. A
magnetic field is instantly built up around this wire (Fig. 1-5).

Normally this field is very small, but if the wire is wound into several
coils, the magnetic field of each coil tends to add to the magnetic
field of the next coil, and a strong magnetic field is quickly created.
 Positive peak

Negative peak

Fig. 1-4. One cycle of an ac waveform.

High-power transmission lines have a magnetic field, which you

might have detected on your car radio when passing underneath
them. This annoying static indicates a strong magnetic field. The
phenomenon provides the principle underlying the operation of
solenoids and electromagnets found in many familiar devices, from
doorbells and automobile starters to telephones and televisions.
Almost all the electricity we use is produced by generators.
Today's generators operate on a principle discovered in 1831 by

the English physicist Michael Faraday. After studying the effects

of electromagnetism, he believed that if electricity could produce
magnetism, then magnetism could produce electricity. He found
that a rapidly moving magnet near a copper wire would induce an

Magnetic lines

Current

Magnetic lines

Fig. 1-5. The direction of the

magnetic lines depends on which
way the current flows.
electrical current In the wire. He further found that by moving the
wire rapidly inside a magnetic field, a current also will be induced
in the wire.
You can duplicate this strange phenomenon by rotating a loop
of wire between the poles of a magnet (Fig. 1-6). When this wire
loop, or conductor, passes through the magnetic lines of force be-
tween the north and south poles of the magnet, a small current can
be detected in the wire. If you look at the ends of a U-shaped
magnet, you can visualize the invisible force around each end of
the magnet or pole (Fig. 1-7). You can imagine this magnetic field
as containing lines of force emanating from the north pole and going

Fig. 1-6. A wire loop forming a conductor between the two magnetic poles.

^-l^--

*^ "^ .

Fig. 1-7. The magnetic field developed around the wire moving through the magnetic
field of the magnet, with current entering at (A)and coming out at (B).
back into the magnet at its south pole. The more powerful the
magnet, the greater the number of these lines of force.
As the wire loop rotates within the magnetic field between the
north and south poles of the magnet, the sides of the loop will cut
the magnetic lines of force. This cutting action of the wire conductor
through the magnetic lines of force is the phenomenon that induces,
or generates, electricity in the wire loop. This process is called
electromagnetic induction. When the loop begins to rotate, one side
passes up through the lines of force, while the other side of the
loop moves down (Fig. 1-8). The current in this first half-cycle will
flow in one direction. When the loop arrives at the halfway position
and neither side is going up or down, none of the lines of force are
being cut, and no electricity is being generated.
As the loop continues on into the second half of the cycle, the
part of the loop that was formerly moving upward starts moving
downward through the lines of force, and the side that was moving
downward starts moving upward. The current in the loop begins
to flow in the opposite direction of the current induced in the first

half of the cycle, when the loop again arrives at its vertical position,
again none of the lines of force are being cut, and no electricity
is being generated.
first in one
During each revolution of the loop, the current flows
direction, then reverses and flows in the opposite direction. Twice
during this revolution there is no current flowing. This is the basic
principle that produces the alternating current commonly found in
our homes. The output voltage of this simple generator can be
increased by any or all of the following methods: by using a more
powerful magnet, which increases the number of lines of force by
adding more loops of wire that cut through the magnetic field, or
by rotating these loops faster.

POWER DISTRIBUTION-
GETTING ELECTRICITY TO OUR HOMES
The electricity we use in our homes is supplied to us by the
companies which convert coal, oil, running water,
electrical utility
or atomic energy into electrical energy. These companies operated
huge generating stations that send electricity, sometimes great
distances, to our cities and homes (Fig. 1-9).
 Current flow

B.

Fig. 1-8. Wire loop rotating inside a

Current flow magnetic As the loop begins to
field. (A)

rotate, current flows in one direction. (B)

When the loop is outside the magnetic
c. field, no current is flowing. (C) Current
flowing in the opposite direction as loop
continues rotation.
 Generating
station

High-voltage
Receiving Station

Distribution
Substation

Business Residential

a in 1 an D D

^ Underground Service
^^i _J
Fig. 1-9. Power distribution. Electricity leaves the generator at 22,000-26,000 volts, passes through transformers,
and IS stepped up as high as 760,000 volts. Then enters the transmission system to the receiving stations.
it

From there travels to substations and may be stepped down to about 12,000 volts for further distribution to
it

consumers.
 In order to move electricity efficiently over long distances, it

must be converted to a very high voltage with a low amperage. The

higher the amperage, the larger the conductors must be to transmit
electricity. This conversion is accomplished through the use of

transformers. After the electricity is generated (Fig. 1-10), it is fed

into a step-up transformer, which raises the voltage, and as a
consequence, lowers the current. Next the electricity flows to the
high-voltage transmission lines, where it travels the necessary
distance to a substation (Figs. 1-11 and 1-12). At the substation,
it is fed into a step-down transformer, which lowers the voltage to

an acceptable level for the consumers in that area (Fig. 1-13). The
final consumers could be factories or industries that use a high volt-

age of 480 volts or more, or a residential area where another step-

down transformer provides the 220 or 1 10 volts used in our homes.
In some neighborhoods, the service is provided by overhead

power lines. In these cases, the canister-shaped devices found on

the power poles are the step-down transformers (Fig. 1-14).

Underground services used pad-mounted transformers (Fig. 1-15).

These line transformers lower the voltage to a manageable level
for our homes.
Most people don't realize that when we turn on our air
conditioning system or a factory turns on all its lights and starts
up its equipment, this increase in electrical consumption is instantly
seen at the generating plant, and their generators must respond
with a larger supply of electricity. The energy of water can be stored
in a reservior or behind a dam. Electrical energy, however, cannot

be stored in large amounts. Therefore, power companies must

constantly maintain a small army of personnel and equipment to
generate electricity the instant the demands are made. Generating
plants usually have some form of generating ability on standby. As
an example, a generator may be turning but not producing power.
Standby generating ability provides the insurance that if needed,
extra service can be provided.
When we plug in an electrical appliance and turn it on, the
electrons flow from the generating station through the wires to the
appliance and return back to the generating station (Fig. 1-16). This
movement of electrons is called current flow. The amount of current,
or the number of electrons that pass a given point, is measured
in units called amperes, normally shortened to amps. The force,
or pressure, that moves these electrons is an electromotive force

10
 Santan generating station located southeast of Chandler, Arizona. Four units produce 75,000 kw apiece.
Fig. 1-10.
(COURTESY OF SALT RIVER PROJECT)

Fig. 1-11. Kyrene substation, (courtesy of salt river project)

11
Fig. 1-12. A substation is used to step down the voltage for further distribution, (courtesy of salt river project;

Fig. 1-13. Anderson substation, (courtesy of salt river project)

12
Fig. 1-14. Pole-mounted transformer provides overhead
service.

*'^^^-

Fig 1-15. Pad-mounted transformer providing underground service.

13
 Moving electrons

Fig. 1-16. Electrons flow fronn the generating plant through the appliance and return
to the plant.

that measured in volts. The work performed by the voltage and

is

current is measured in watts. The most important condition that

affects the flow of electrical currents is resistance.
Electricity is selective about the materials through which it flows.
As with any current, it will flow in the path that offers the least re-
sistance. This electrical resistance is a phenomenon similar to
friction, where the larger the resistance, the smaller the current flow
in the conductors. This resistance also has a tendency to generate
heat. The resistance of a conductor is measured in units called
ohms.
You can calculate all these values by a simple formula given
by Ohm's Law, which states that the voltage divided by the current
equals the resistance, and voltage multiplied by current equals
power in watts (Fig. 1-17).To use the formula in the circle illustrated,
simply cover the unit you want to find with your finger and perform
the calculations of the remaining two.

14
PUTTING ELECTRICITY TO WORK
For electrical energy to be used, there must be a continuous
path or circuit for the current to flow. It often helps to think of
electrical circuits as plumbing circuits and water as the electron
flow. When the current travels through this circuit, it provides energy
that can generate heat, create light,or make motors run.
The simplest electrical circuit consists of a power source and
a load (Fig. 1-18). The actual source of power is the light company's
generating plant, but for our purposes we'll consider the service
entrance to your home as our source of power. The load or circuit
can be broken down further into three parts: a conductor or wires,
some switching arrangement or power control, and the load of the
devices or appliances themselves (Fig. 1-19). These appliances
could be a variety of devices from lamps, radios, and televisions,
to telephones and motors. The switch is simply a device that controls
the flow of the current. In the example of water in plumbing, this
could be the faucet to a sprinkler system in the lawn.
Because of the large volume of matter making up our Earth,
the Earth is electrically neutral. Consequently, current will flow when
voltage is applied to a wire or conductor connected to the Earth
or ground. If this human body, severe
conductor happens to be the
shock will occur However, by using common sense and
(Fig. 1-20).

following a few simple rules, you can handle electricity quite safely
and easily.

GROUNDS AND SHOCK HAZARDS

Electricity is something everyone uses quite freely with just the
flip of a switch or the push of a button, but it is also something that
should be treated with respect. Occasionally the news media reports
on fires or injuries resulting from electrical causes. In rural areas,
barns have burned to the ground because of electrical storms.
Houses and mobile homes are sometimes completely destroyed
because of faulty wiring. People are shocked, and in severe cases,
have died from household electrical accidents.
There is little you can do about electrical storms, but you should
never be careless with electricity in your home. Fires in the home
are usually caused by faulty wiring, which might be caused by
nothing more than a poorly connected plug to a cord. Any poor
connection could lead to overheating and eventually cause a fire.

15
 6 volts

3ohms> 12 watts

A 2 amps

P POWER
V VOLTAGE
I CURRENT
R RESISTANCE
Fig. 1-17. Ohm's Law. In this illustration, a 6-volt supply operating a circuit using
2 amps will produce 12 watts of power.

Battery^ Lamp

Fig. 1-18. A simple electrical circuit.

16
 Closed
-co-
r
Current flowing

Fig. 1-19. A circuit must have a complete patii for current to flow. (A) Switch open.
(B) Switch closed.

Wires also can overheat when too many appliances are plugged
into an extension cord that isn't large enough to carry the electricity
the appliances demand. As the heat builds up in the cord, the cord
insulation melts or becomes brittle. As the insulation deteriorates
the wires become exposed. It is only a matter of time until the bare
wires touch each other, causing a short and sending sparks
circuit,

flying. Therefore, any appliance cord or extension cord in use that

becomes warm to the touch should be considered a potential fire

hazard.
Getting an electrical shock is akin to getting bitten by a snake.
It happens and is usually a surprise. Keep in mind, however,
fast
that conditions must be exactly right for you to get an electrical
shock. Just touching a wire won't necessarily do it. Remember that

17
 Earth ground

Fig. 1-20. The human body can complete a circuit, allowing current to flow.

current must flow in a continuous closed path from its source

through some device or load and then back to the source. If for

some reason, you happen to become the link in an electrically live

circuit, you will receive a shock. You must make the connection.
You must be touching the live wire and at the same time come in

contact with a grounded object or another Your body must

live wire.

form the link or make the connection to complete the circuit. All
of this means that electricity does not need to flow in wires to make
the return trip to its source. Electricity can return to the source
through any conductor, including the human body, that comes in
contact with the earth directly or comes in contact with another
conductor that in turn touches the earth.
At first, this situation might seem remote, but remember that
ifyou are taking a bath or swimming in a pool, touching any metal
water pipes or faucets, or standing on the ground or on a damp
concrete garage floor, you become a conductor to ground. Now all
you have to do is touch a hot wire or come in contact with a live

18
circuit, and a shock will most certainly occur. To avoid this situation,
it is only necessary to observe one of the most important rules for

any do-it-yourself electrician. "Never, work on any electrically live

circuit, fixture or appliance." Your safety and your life might depend

on how well you obey this one rule.

Before reaching for a screwdriver or wire strippers, simply
disconnect, or kill, the circuit you are working on. Do so at its

source— at the fuses or circuit breakers in the service entrance pan-

el. If your service entrance panel uses fuses, simply remove the
appropriate fuse to disconnect the circuit from the incoming ser-
vice. If your service panel uses moving the breaker
circuit breakers,

to the OFF position disconnects the circuit. In order to ensure that

you have killed the right circuit, turn on an overhead light or plug
a lamp into a wall outlet before killing the circuit, keeping in mind
that wall outlets are normally not on the same circuit as the overhead
lights. The overhead light or the lamp will go out if you kill the correct

circuit, but if you still, have any doubt about which fuse or breaker

kills which circuit, you can kill all the power by shutting off the main

breaker in the entrance panel. With the main breaker off, take a
look at the meter. The thin wheel or disk lying horizontally below
the dials should not be turning.
Industrial electricians have padlocks for lock-outs and use red
tags to identify circuits that are being worked on. In this case, a
note taped to the panel explaining why the power is off could prevent
a possible disaster. Someone could come along and reset the
breaker or replace the fuse. For added insurance, tape the circuit

breaker to the off position: if your house uses fuses, take the fuse
with you. Now that you have killed the circuit and are confident that
the power is off, make one final check to determine that the circuit

is actually dead. Use a meter or test lamp. When you are satisfied
that the power is completely off, you can begin your wiring project.
However, you need to keep in mind a few additional safety
precautions.
Don't forget that water is a good conductor. Never do any
electricalwork while you are wet, or standing in a damp location.
If the ground or floor is wet, put down some dry boards as a

temporary work platform.

Spend some time thoroughly familiarizing yourself on how your
particular home is wired before you modify or add any circuits to
the electrical system.

79
 Always be on guard against sloppy wiring practices, the person
who was there before you might not have observed proper wiring
techniques. Labels the panel might be misleading.
in

Keep in mind even

that though the main circuit breaker might
be tripped in the service entrance panel, the wires coming in from
the meter feeding the panel are still hot and must be respected.
If you do encounter a situation where someone has been

shocked and they are still part of the electrical circuit, do not touch
them with your bare hands. First, try to kill the power: If this is not
possible, use some sort of insulating device such as a coat or a
broom to remove the victim from the circuit. Then keep the victim
warm and give artificial respiration, if necessary, until help arrives.
By far the greatest safety device you have is your own mind.
Stop and think, work slowly, and if you are in a hurry, don't do it.
With proper planning and good work habits, most do-it-yourselfers
are pleasantly surprised just how easy electricity is to work with,
and soon are thinking of new and original ways of improving their
home-wiring system.

20
 2

Staying
Safe and Legal
Nearly ioo years ago, a group of insurance, electrical, archi-
tectural,and associated interests developed the original code that
became known as the National Electrical Code. It has been
sponsored by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) since
191 1 The NFPA continues to publish revised and updated editions
.

of the code every three years to stay abreast of new developments

in the field of electricity. A technical committee makes rec-

ommendations based on the primary objective of safety and fire

prevention.
The code itself is not a law, only an advisory. However, it is

usually adopted into law by most cities and counties. These

governing bodies might further adopt local ordinances that pertain
to their particular area.
Professional electricians must pass an examination based on
the rules and regulations of the National Electrical Code, along with
the local code for their area.
Most bookstores have copies of the National Electrical Code.
Few people can quote from it in its entirety, and as a homeowner
you need only be familiar with the regulations that pertain to your

21
wiring project. Always check with your city or county building
inspection department. Some wiring projects, such as hot tubs,
swimming pools, etc. might require the services of a licensed
electrician.

DOING YOUR OWN WIRING

Some modifications and additions to existing wiring usually can
be done by the resident homeowner, but they normally require a
permit from the building department and inspections by the city
electrical inspector. Permit fees vary from $5.00 to $50, depend-
ing on the size of the project. Keep in mind the success of any proj-
ect depends on how well it is planned.
Using the proper materials is very important. Circuits of 11 0/1 20
volts should use wires rated at 600 volts. Normally the wiring in

houses is considered to be in a dry location. These cables usually

and a ground wire. You may
consist of three conductors: two wires
locate some circuits in damp locations, such as under canopies,
patio covers, and anyplace where moisture can come in contact
with the wiring (such as storage sheds, barns, and other
outbuildings). Damp resistance wiring must be used in these
locations.
A wet any location where water might come in di-
location is

rect contact with the wiring, forexample, underground installations

and wiring exposed to the weather. Always use the proper cables
rated for the conditions at their locations. Your safety and peace
of mind is well worth the little extra cost, and the work would not
pass inspection otherwise.

WIRE AND CABLE SIZES

The is determined by the amount of current
size of the cable
it is American Wire Guage (AWG) wire sizes come in
to carry.
numbered sizes; where the smaller the number, the larger the wire
(see Table 2-1 and Fig. 2-1). The receptacle might be fed by #12
wire, while a clothes dryer will require a larger size,
such as #8 or
#6.Cables are further identified by the number of wires in the cable,
such as "12/2 with ground," which means the cable is made up
of two #12 conductors and a ground wire (see Figs. 2-2 and 2-3).

The code states that the overcurrent protection, or breaker size,

for copper cables must not be greater than 15 amps for #14, 20

22
 ® 18
Low voltage:
O 16 thermostats, doorbells, etc.

@ 14

O 12 120/240 Volts:

® 10 lighting and wall receptacles

(§) 8

o 240 Volts: large appliances

service entrance
and subfeeds
1/0

Fig. 2-1.
®
Cross sections
2/0

of copper wires and their comparative size.

Table 2-1 . Current-Carrying Capacities of Copper Wire.

AIVIPACITY OF COPPER WIRE

In Conduit, Cable, or Buried

Directly in the Earth Single Conductors in Free Air

Wire Types Types RH, Types Types RH, Weather-

Size T, TW RHW, THW T, TW RHW, THW proof

14 15* 15* 20* 20* 30

12 20* 20* 25* 25* 40
10 30 30* 40 40* 55
8 40 50 60 70 70
6 55 65 80 95 100
4 70 85 105 125 130
2 95 115 140 170 175
1/0 125 150 195 230 235
2/0 145 2175 225 265 275
3/0 165 200 260 310 320

* Higher ampacities are given in the code book but the above figures are to be
used for overcurrent protection.

23
 Paper insulation
Hot wire
Plastic sheath

L
(C=I
^ Type NM 12-2G 600 V

Neutral wire
Bare ground wire

Type UF 12-2 with ground

Solid plastic covering

Two types of nonmetallic sheathed cable. Type NM is used only

Fig. 2-2. in dry indoor locations, where Type
UF may be buried directly In the ground as well as anywhere Type NM is used.

'»

-OO VOitS

Fig. 2-3. Typical cable used in residential wiring.

24
amps for #12, and 30 amps for #10 wire. Although the code allows
#14 cable to be used in some cases, most homes currently being
built use #12 as the smallest cable.
Aluminum and copper-clad aluminum wires were used when
copper was expensive, but currently copper is inexpensive and
copper wire is by far the recommended conductor for today's wiring.

THE COLOR CODE

The code will have a ground
states that residential wiring
conductor, and that the color be white or natural gray. This wire
will

is usually grounded by the utility company, and is thought of as

the common, or neutral wire in the electrical system. Another ground

connectionis made through the residential water pipes and further

may be made through an 8-foot metal grounding stake driven into

the ground near the service entrance (Figs. 2-4 and 2-5).
Equipment ground is identified by green insulation, or it can
be a completely bare wire. This wire is provided for the user's safety.
Think of the black wire as delivering the electricity to the outlet,
the white wire as returning it to the generating plant, and the bare
ground wire as tripping a breaker if anything goes wrong with the
appliance. The neutral wire also will trip a breaker if it is connected
to the hot wire without a load.

CABLE AND CIRCUIT PROTECTION

It is necessary to protect cables from damage that could occur
from future construction. When you run a cable through holes bored
in joists must bore the holes so that the distance
or rafters, you
from the edge of the hole to the outside edge of the wood is at least
^Vi inches. If the distance is less than 1 V4 inches, then you must
install a steel plate at least Vie inch thick to protect the cable from
being penetrated by nails or screws used when Sheetrock or
paneling is installed (Fig. 2-6).
You may install cables in notches in wood studs and joists if

the notches don't weaken the structure, provided the notched area
is covered by a steel plate at least Vie inch thick for protection from

nails or screws (see Fig. 2-7).

If the cable enters or passes through a metal opening, a factory

or field-drilled hole or knock-out, you must securely install a bushing,
or a grommet in the opening before you pull the cable through (Fig.
2-8).

25
 Ground rod
Fig. 2-4. Grounding system using a ground rod.

Buried cables must have minimum cover, depending on the

type of installation (Table 2-2). Measure the cover from the finished
grade of the surface to the top of the cable or conduit, not to the
bottom of the trench. A 24-inch cover does not mean a 24-inch
trench.

26
 Fig. 2-5. Grounding rod with clamp.

There are exceptions to Table 2-2. For example, a circuit that

controls a low-voltage outdoor lighting system or a sprinkler system
of not more than 30 volts and that is installed with the proper
underground cable may be installed with minimum of 6 inches of
cover.
Another exception is a residential branch circuit to be installed
with overcurrent protection of not more than 30 amps and rated
300 volts or less. Then the minimum cover would be 12 inches.
Do not use any backfill containing sharp rocks or materials
where they might damage the cables or conduit. You can provide
protection by using a granular material, such as sand, or by using
suitable running boards or sleeves.

GROUND-FAULT DETECTION
Ground-fault circuit interrupters disconnect or kill an electrical
circuit when the current to ground exceeds a very small
predetermined amount (Fig. 2-9). This amount is considerably less
than the amount of current required to trip a circuit breaker or cause

27
 Vi6-inch steel plate required
when this distance is less than
/>:
IV4 inch

f «
ivTVl

12-2 W 600 V

k>i

Fig. 2-6. Steel plate provides protection if the hole is too close to the edge of the stud.

Cable •;

iW
\ /
12-2 WG 600 V

Steel plate Vie inch thick

Fig. 2-7. Steel plate is used to protect wires when notches are used.

28
 Table 2-2. Minimum Cable Depths for Underground Wiring.

MINIIMUM COVER REQUIREMENTS, TO 600 VOLTS

MINIMUM
WIRING METHOD BURIAL
IN INCHES

Direct Buried Cables 24

Rigid Metal Conduit 6
Intermediate Metal Conduit 6
Rigid Nonmetallic Conduit
Approved for Direct Burial 18

Cable clamp bushing

>
o
M r

12-2 WG

\®/

Test Reset

u
Fig. 2-8. Bushings must be used when cables enter
metal boxes.
>- J

Fig. 2-9. Ground-fault circuit interrupters provide

additional safety for residential users.

29
Fig. 2-10. Wire loop should be installed clockwise under screw heads.

Fig. 2-11. Wire nuts are twisted clockwise when connecting wires, (courtesy of square d company)

30
a fuse to blow. These receptacles have a small button on the front
that you can use to reset the circuit when the fault has been
corrected.
Ground-fault circuit interrupters are now required where the
user might come in contact with water or water pipes such as in
bathrooms, carports, garages, or outdoor locations within 6V2 feet
of the ground. Basements are also required to have at least one
of these receptacles. Also included in this class are any receptacles
above the countertop and within 6 feet of the kitchen sink, except
for specific receptacles used for refrigerators and freezers. Note
that each individual outlet does not need to be a GFCI receptacle,
but each circuit must have GFCI protection. An outlet in the ga-
rage on the same circuit as a bathroom with a GFCI receptacle
would be satisfactory. Any outside outlet available to the
—
homeowner for the use of a drill in the garage, to an electric
lawnmower or an electric grass trimmer— must be so protected.
Many problems occur in circuits because of loose or poor
connections. Most of these problems could have been avoided by
proper connections at the beginning (Figs. 2-10 and 2-11). Dissimilar
metals can cause heating problems. Avoid copper-to-aluminum
connections and make certain that any connection is mechanically
solid.
An inexpensive device for the protection of small children is

a safety plug (Fig. 2-12). These plastic snap-in plugs are available
at most electrical supply houses. When they are snapped in place
on unused outlets (Fig. 2-13), they offer protection from a child
inserting anything into the receptacle and prevent what could be
a severe shock or burn.
Don't think of the National Electrical Code as a hindrance to
your project. It is a reflection of nearly 100 years of experience and
problem solving in the use of the phenomenon we call electricity.

Remember, its primary objective is to keep you and your property

safe.
Most homeowners take pride in their projects, enough so that
their own standards often surpass the codes for their area. If the
code calls for a minimum of a #14 wire, you will always feel better
if you have used #12. The code minimums might not always meet

the requirements of a conscientious homeowner who has his life

savings invested in his residence.

31
 Fig. 2-12. Plastic plugs provide protection on unused
receptacles in reach of small children.

Fig. 2-13. Safety plug installed in receptacle.

Look at the code as a reference point for the safety of your

wiring project. If you follow or exceed the code, then you will never
have any problems with inspectors. You'll want to perform your
wiring project in such a manner that once you have made the last
connection and applied the power, you'll never be troubled by that
installation again. It will be trouble-free from now on.
There are motors still running today that are well over 40 years
old because the installer did it right the first time. You don't have
to get paid for the job to do professional-quality work.

32
 Basic Circuits
Utility companies deliver power to our homes through over-
head wires or an underground service. The standard service
consists of three wires: two hot wires, or conductors, and one neutral
wire (Fig. 3-1 ). Each hot wire supplies 1 20 volts with respect to the
one neutral wire. The neutral wire is kept at volts and is consid-
ered to be at ground potential.
With this arrangement, one hot wire and the neutral wire will

provide 120 volts for circuits used for such things as lights and wall
outlets.Both hot wires and the neutral provide 240 volts for
appliances, such as ranges and dryers. The hot wires can be any
color except white or green, but normally both are black or black
and red. The neutral wire will be white or might even be bare.

DELIVERING POWER
The utility company connects the incoming wires to a
weatherproof cabinet (Fig. 3-2) that will hold the meter. The two
hot wires and the gray, neutral wire are next fed through the opening
and through the wall into the service entrance panel (Fig. 3-3). The

33
 2400 Volts

Transformer lowers voltage

from 2400 volts to 240 volts

120 Volts

Neutral

120 volts

To earth ground

Hot wires

Service head-

Fig. 3-1. Typical overhead service to a residence.

wires are now connected to their proper terminals (Fig. 3-4) and
are ready for the meter to be attached.
As shown in Fig. 3-5, a meter is installed to measure the
electricity as it enters the service entrance panel. This meter is

calibrated in kilowatt-hours.measures the amount of energy

It

consumed in kilowatts according to the number of hours used. Most

meters have five numbered dials with pointers (Fig. 3-6). The first
dial is numbered clockwise, and the rest alternate counterclockwise

and clockwise.
To read a meter, write down the numbers from left to right,
beginning with the dial on the left. Use the smaller number when

34
Fig. 3-2. Weatherproof cabinet for the electric meter.

the pointer is between two numbers. If the pointer is directly on a

number, look at the next dial to the right. If that pointer is on zero
or has passed zero, use the number at the pointer of the first dial.
If the pointer of the second dial hasn't reached zero, use the next

smaller number on the first dial. In Fig. 3-6, the pointer of the dial
on the left is between 1 and 2, so the number you use is 1 On the
.

next dial, the number is between 3 and 4, so you use 3. The next
dial's pointer is almost at 3, so a quick check at the pointer of the
fourth dial tells you that because has passed 9 but has not reached
it

35
Fig. 3-3. Inside view of cabinet showing wires going Fig. 3-4. Wires connected to the meter socket. Utility

to the service entrance panel on the other side of the company can now bring the service wires up through
wall. the conduit, make the connections at the terminals at
the top, and attach the meter.

zero. You will use the 2 on the third dial. The number on the fourth
dial will be 9 and the final number from the fifth dial will be 6.

To determine the number of kilowatt-hours of a particular

period, subtract the reading taken at the beginning of that period
from the reading taken at the end.
After the meter, the two hot wires travel into the service
entrance panel where they are connected to the main
(Fig. 3-7),

disconnect or breaker The neutral wire is connected to

(Fig. 3-8).

the neutral busbar, which is bonded to the cabinet (Fig. 3-9). Fig-

36
Fig. 3-5. An electric meter installed by the utility company.

13296 kilowatt-hours

Fig. 3-6. Numbered dials indicating the amount of electric power used.

37
Fig. 3-7. Wires run directly from irie meter into the service entrance panel.

ure 3-10 illustrates another important wire connected to the ser-

vice entrance panel: the ground conductor. This ground wire (Figs.
3-11 and 3-12) connects the neutral busbar to a permanently
grounded object, such as a cold water pipe or grounding stake. This
connection establishes an electrical path directly to the earth for

38
Fig. 3-8. The two hot wires connect to the main breaker.

the complete electrical system.

From the main disconnect, two conductors are connected to
two hot busbars. These busbars are able to handle the current al-
lowed by the main disconnect and permit the distribution of the
current into smaller currents for each branch circuit. The hot wire
of a 120-volt branch circuit is connected to one of the hot busbars
through some overcurrent protection device, normally a circuit
breaker or fuse (Fig. 3-13). The gray or white neutral and the bare
ground wire are connected to the neutral busbar in the cabinet. A
a 240-volt circuit breaker to the hot busbar. All neutral and bare
ground wires originate at the neutral busbar. There they are in di-
rect electrical contact with the earth or ground. A neutral wire must
never be interrupted by a fuse or circuit breaker.

39
Fig. 3-9. The neutral wire is connected to the neutral busbar.

BRANCH CIRCUITS
A simple light circuit is illustrated in Fig. 3-14. It is only a partial
circuit because the switch and equipment ground wire are not

40
 Neutral

Bonding screw

Neutral busbar

Hot wires

Ground
clamp
Jumper

Fig. 3-10. Grounding methods for service entrance panel.

shown. Figure 3-15 shows the same circuit with a switch. Switch-
es should only be installed in the hot wire, not in the neutral one.
A look at the illustration will show that the switch will disconnect
the device completely from the hot busbar, eliminating the danger
of a shock or short circuit if the switch is open. A switch in the neutral
wire (Fig. 3-16) also would turn the device off, but it would still be

connected to the hot busbar and remain a potential shock hazard.

The equipment ground wire, usually bare, also helps prevent
shocks. Normally it does nothing, like a lifeboat; however when a
device malfunctions, it instantly goes to work. If any part of the hot
wire somehow came in contact with a metal fixture or housing, the
housing would be electrically live. A human body could provide the
electrical path toground for current to flow, and someone could
receive a severe shock (Fig. 3-17). This situation can occur when

41
Fig. 3-1 1 . View of the bare ground conducior running Fig. 3-12. Additional grounding is provided when the
from the bottom of the panel, alongside the stud, out ground conductor is clamped at a bushing.
through the wail, and down to the ground rod.

a person is operating any metal power tool or appliance. With a

ground wire connected from the neutral busbar to the metal fixture
or housing, an alternate and less resistant path to ground is
provided; in the event of a short circuit, the breaker would trip, turn-
ing off the power (Fig. 3-18).

Several branch circuits might be needed to supply power to

a kitchen area (Fig. 3-19), and a larger number is required for an
entire home; however, by using numbers and electrical symbols,
you can make a working drawing or map of an electrical system
(Fig. 3-20). In this illustration, the wires are not shown, but a dotted

line indicates which switch controls what fixture.

The circuits feeding the receptacles or outlets are connected

to the service entrance panel, as shown in Fig. 3-21 . Note that the
ground is maintained throughout the circuit. This can be very

42
Fig. 3-13. Circuit breaker to be installed for overcurrent protection.

important in the event of a malfunction in the system or in some

device plugged into the system. The overcurrent protection will come

into play, and a fuse will blow or circuit breaker will trip and kill the
circuit.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND FUSES

The purpose of a circuit breaker or fuse is to protect electrical
circuits from damage by too much current. By design, a circuit

breaker will trip or a fuse will blow if the circuit it is protecting is

forced to carry more current than the wiring can safely handle. These
excessive currents can come from surges from the utility company
or lightning, but more often they are caused by a faulty appliance,

43
 Service entrance
panel

Hot wire

Hot
busbars

Neutral wire

Neutral busbar

Fig. 3-14. A simple circuit showing the connections in the service entrance panel.

Circuit live
Service entrance
to here
panel

Hot busbars

IHJ U
'
— 'r—Ih
Neutral wire

1
Neutral busbar

Fig. 3-15. Circuit showing the switch installed in the hot wire.

Service entrance
panel
1:1

Hot busbars

Circuit live
Neutral busbar to here

Fig. 3-16. A circuit with the switch in the neutral wire will leave the fixture live.

44
Hot busbars

Hot wire accidentally

touches metal frame

Ground
Fig. 3-17. Metal appliances installed without an equipment ground present potential
shock hazards.
Fuse blows or
jit breaker trips

Hot wire
accidentally
Equipment grounding
touches metal frame
wire

Fig. 3-18. Equipnnent ground wires offer a least-resistance path to ground.

45
120-volt circuit
for dishwasher 240-volt circuit for range

Fig. 3-19. Kitchens require a number of circuits.

a bad switch, or a bad receptacle. Too many appliances on one

circuit also will cause a breaker to trip.
To provide proper protection, the fuse or circuit breaker must
be rated for the same current as the wiring it is protecting. For

46
 wp
a.
BR«2
©=
BA uy
t^
s

7
=©
KIT s' DR /

L ^
WP
/ GAR
s.'
-^'
©=

®
^^ ^ LR
BR#1

wp ^^

Electrical Symbols

Light Fixture Range Outlet

=^ Duplex Receptacle Dryer Outlet

^
1 Duplex Receptacle.
CZ] Doorbell
half controlled by switch

S Single-pole Switch :^ Weatherproof Receptacle

wp
S3 Three-way Switch Switch Wiring

Fig. 3-20. Electrical symbols used m residential wiring.

example, #12 copper wire can safely handle 20 amps. The fuse
or breaker must never be larger than 20 amps otherwise, the wiring
becomes the fuse, and if a problem occurs, the wires could overheat
enough cause a fire inside a wall or attic. Never replace a fuse
to
or breaker with one with a higher rating unless you are dead certain
the wires are big enough.
A fuse is simply a small strip of a metal alloy that has a low
melting point. When properly installed, becomes the weakest link
it

in the electrical circuit. If the current begins to exceed the rating

of the fuse, the metal alloy melts and breaks the circuit (Fig. 3-22).
The Edison-base fuse no longer can be used in new construction
but is permitted as a replacement. An improved version of this type
of fuse is the type "S" fuse (Fig. 3-23). This fuse has an adapter

47
 Circuit breaker

Neutral busbar

Ground

Ground terminal

Fig. 3-21. Typical circuit connections in the service entrance panel.

that must be installed. This configuration limits the size of the fuse
to the proper rating of the circuit.
Cartridge fuses come in two basic styles: ferrule and knife-blade
(Fig. 3-24). The ferrule fuse will normally be found protecting the
wiring of an individual appliance such as a range. They come in

sizes from 1 to 60 amps in the 1 20/240-volt class. The knife-blade

fuse sometimes can be found as the main disconnect in fused
service-entrance panels. They come in sizes of 70 amps or more
and are rated for 240 volts.
For the most part, circuit breakers are replacing fuses (Fig.
3-25). They vary from low-current, pop-out buttons protecting
electronic circuits to units resembling light switches in the 20-amp
range and the large 200-amp main disconnects found in service-
entrance panels. Circuit breakers provide automatic overcurrent
protection and are more convenient when disconnecting the power
to make repairs or additions to a circuit.
Unlike fuses, which self-destruct when their rated current is

exceeded, circuit breakers have a bimetallic strip that bends when

exposed to excessive heat (Fig. 3-26). When this strip bends, it

releases a spring-loaded trip, which and opens the circuit (Fig.

trips

3-27). The breaker then goes to off or an intermediate position.

48
 Good Fuse Blown Fuse

Fig. 3-22. Fuses protect a circuit by allowing a metal strip to melt if the current tjecomes
excessive.

Rg. 3-23. S-type fuses use adapters to restrict the fuse to the proper size for that circuit.

Ferrule Type
Knife-blade Type

Fig. 3-24. Cartridge-type fuses.

After the strip has cooled and the problem is fixed, most breakers
can be reset by forcing the handle beyond the off position and
then moving it to ON (Fig. 3-28). Some breakers only move to the
OFF position when tripped, they need only to be returned to ON to
be reset.
You may place the service-entrance panel on an outside wall
and exposed to the elements. In such cases, however, you must
locate them within a rainproof enclosure (Fig. 3-29). You also must

49
Fig. 3-25. Typical circuit breaker installed in today's honnes and factories, (courtesy
OF SQUARE D COMPANY)

make sure the conduit connection is kept rainproof (Fig. 3-30). An

indoor service-entrance panel (Fig. 3-31) does not have to be so
protected, but both types should be easy to get to in an emergency.
Keep obstructions, furniture, storage boxes, etc., away from the
front of the panel.
At one time or other, most homeowners will have to deal with
a blown fuse or tripped breaker.
It becomes expensive and time-
consuming to call in an electrician every time the lights go out or
the toaster doesn't work. By becoming familiar with the basic
residential electrical system, almost anyone can be a little more
electrically independent and give his household maintenance
budget a break.

50
Fig. 3-26. Inside view of circuit breaker. (A) Binding screw holds hot wire in place.
(B) Electrical contacts. (C) Thermal-magnetic tripping mechanism, (courtesy of square
D COMPANY)

Window

Fig. 3-27. Some circuit breakers have little windows that indicate when they are
tripped.

57
 r^
OFF

CD

Fig. 3-28. Method of resetting a tripped circuit breaker.

^^^Hi'

Fig. 3-29. Rainproof enclosure, (courtesy OF SQUARE

D COMPANY)

52
 .'<

^^^i.

^'9- 3-30.
Bolt-on hubs make
rainproof conduit
connections, (courtesy OF
SQUARED COMPANY)

53
 ^:<-r-"'-'"^:v*a!^?^-
O

yM ^

,
1^1^,1 1
,,^
.-w-y"^^ ^^y'l'iiirfftiiiiiiiiifB

""^^HOHaaiijIj^^^H ^ ^^-

Fig. 3-31 . An indoor service entrance panel, (courtesy of square d company)

54
 4

Tools
for the Job
Most homeowners already have a basic set of tools; however,
ifyou are going to do much electrical work, consider investing in
a few specialized tools. Remember, it is important to buy quality
tools.A poorly made tool is never a bargain.
Some of the brands to look for include Channellock, Craftsman,
Crescent, Klein, Lufkin, Snap-On and Stanley. One of the best
lineman's pliers or side cutters available is made by Klein, while
Crescent and Klein both make excellent diagonal cutters. You might
need go to an electrical wholesale supply to buy Klein lineman's
to
pliers and diagonal cutters. Tongue-and-groove pliers are made by
a number of manufacturers and tend to look very similar, but
Channellock seems to be the preferred brand.
Lineman's pliers (Fig. 4-1) are probably the basic tool for
electricians. Grooved jaws hold wires firmly and are useful for
twisting bare wires together. Just behind the jaws are wire cutters.
Lineman's equipped with insulated handles, which
pliers usually are

provide some measure safety; however, it is still your

of
responsibility to make certain the circuit you are working on is dead.
True insulated grips are sold separately and must be installed
by the user. You can soften them by heating in boiling water, then
while the grips are pliable, force them on the handles by tapping

55
with a plastic hammer or a blocl< of wood. Plastic grips installed
by the manufacturers are put on by dipping the handles in the plastic
solution. The plastic coating is thin and easily broken and its purpose
is for comfort only and not for electrical insulation.
Another type of pliers used almost as much as lineman's pliers

are diagonal cutting pliers (Fig. 4-1), more commonly known as

dikes. They are used for cutting wires up to a #6 diameter.
Tongue-and-groove pliers (Fig. 4-1) are very useful when work-
ing with conduit. They come in a variety of sizes, from 6V2-inch to
the large 20-inch size that can grip pipes up to 5V2 inches in

diameter.
Needle-nose pliers (Fig. 4-1) come in a number of sizes, but
the 6- or 8-inch size is about right for looping wire around screw
terminals.
Crimping tools (Fig. 4-1) receive a lot of use, so a quality tool
is important.
Wire strippers (Fig. 4-1) are available in a variety of forms. The
simplest comes in a two-piece scissors-type arrangement. You might

Fig. 4-1. Basic electrical tools. From left to right, lineman's pliers, diagonal cutting pliers, tongue-and-groove
pliers, needle nose pliers, crimping tool, and wire strippers.

56
need a little practice before you can strip the insulation without
nicking the wire, but this can be mastered after a few tries.

A cable ripper (Fig. 4-2) is an inexpensive tool that speeds up

the job of stripping the outer insulation from the flat two-wire
nonmetallic cable used most homes. This simple tool has a small
in

triangular blade positioned in such a way that when the tool is

pressed around a cable and then pulled, it will make a slit in the
insulation, allowing the outer cover to be easily peeled off. A
combination wire stripper and crimper is also available (Fig. 4-2).
You will need some sort of testing device to check for voltage
and continuity. A simple tool to check for voltage is the neon volt-
age tester (Fig. 4-2). If you touch one probe to a hot wire or terminal
and the other to the neutral or ground, the lamp will light if the circuit
is hot.
An inexpensive volt-ohmmeter (Fig. 4-3), available at any
electronics supply store, will check for both voltage and continuity.

Wire cutter

Crimper

Bolt cutter

Wire stripper

Blade

Fig. 4-2. Cable ripper, wire stripper/crimping tool, and a neon voltage tester.

57
Fig. 4-3. Volt-ohmmeter.

Fig. 4-4. Wigginton "Wiggy" volt-

age tester.

58
Fig. 4-5. Woodworking tools
include a hammer, a chisel,
a drill, and a wood bit.

Fig. 4-6. Tape measure and a screwdriver with a Va- Fig. 4-7. Screwdriver tips should be kept square,
inch blade.

59
This meter is also useful for troubleshooting faulty appliances
around the home. Most electricians have a rugged, reliable volt-
age tester such as the one shown in Fig. 4-4. These testers are
specifically designed to read 120-240-480 and 600 volts.
When using any test equipment to check for voltage, work
slowly and carefully. Don't touch any metal. Keep your hands well
back on the insulated area of the probes. If a carelessly placed probe
is touching a hot wire or terminal and at the same time is touching

a neutral or ground, a short will occur and sparks will surely fly.
Woodworking tools such as those shown in Fig. 4-5 will come
in handy. You will need a hammer for driving staples and hanging

boxes and a chisel fornotching studs and plaster. An electric drill

with about a Va-inch wood bit and a long heavy-duty extension cord
will save a lot of time when you are drilling holes in joists or studs
for wiring. A tape measure (Fig. 4-6) will be useful for positioning
wall receptacles and switches.
Most homes have a screwdriver (Fig. 4-6) or two lying about,
but one with a blade about Vs inch wide will handle most terminal
screws. The important thing is to use a blade with the correct
thickness for the size of the slot in the screw. Using the wrong size
of screwdriver is the major cause of screws being damaged. An-
other point to remember about screwdrivers is that the tip should
be squared (Fig. 4-7). Screwdrivers have a tendency to be abused

:v!
Wall

4 inches

/
Stud

Wire-

Test hole

i:

Fig. 4-8. Checking for obstructions.

60
and are often used as chisels and wedges. If the tip becomes
rounded, no longer usable as a screwdriver. Use a
it is file or grinder
to l<eep the tip squared off.
Try to keep tools located in one place— a utility room or ga-
rage, perhaps. This way you'll be able them when they're
to find
needed. can be very frustrating
It on a 20-minute job to spend an
hour looking for the tool you need.
Before cutting a large hole in a you should probe the area
wall,
for obstructions. Drill a small test hole at the desired box location,
then bend a 10-inch length of stiff wire into an L shape. Next push
it through the hole and rotate the bend (Fig. 4-8). If the wire
encounters an obstruction, try another test hole a few inches from
the first position until you find a clear space.

^^ Drill

Ceiling joist

"

^Dril

L_fi ^ / ^^ Remove baseboard

Floor joist

Floor joist

^- Drill

Fig. 4-9. Holes drilled from different elevations to route cable.

67
 Wall

Cable Box hole-

Notched channel

Fig. 4-10. Cable running behind baseboards.

Cable run between

amb and frame

Door with molding

removed
Fig. 4-11. Cable routed around a doorway.

You might have to use a lot of ingenuity for some wiring

projects, but normallyyou can fish cable either down from the attic
or up through a basement or crawl space. Figure 4-9 illustrates three
different options for drilling holes to bring cable into wall cavities.
One choice for running cable from one receptacle outlet to anoth-

62
er is remove a section of the baseboard and make a channel
to
for the cable. The channel will be hidden when the baseboard is

put back in place (Fig. 4-10).

You also can route cable around doorways (Fig. 4-11). First
remove the molding from the door frame and whatever section of
baseboard necessary to reach the box locations. Next run the cable
between the jamb and the frame. Spacers are used inside the frame,
so you will have to cut notches in them to allow room for the cable.
It is important to work slowly and carefully. Molding splits easily.
Use a wide putty knife or chisel to pry the molding away from the
wall. When the channel is being notched, keep in mind that the cable
must be installed at least VA inches from the finished surface;
otherwise you must use conduit or a Vie-inch metal plate to protect
the cable.

63
 Wiring Outlets
and
Overhead Fixtures
Before beginning any project, do some planning, decide what
you want toadd and where you want to put it. It's a good idea to
put your plan on paper along with a list of materials needed.
Determine your source of power. It may be the service entrance
panel, or you might need to tap into an existing circuit at a light,
switchbox, or receptacle. To do so, determine the capacity of that
circuit. Will it handle the additional load? Then decide what size

and type of wire to use.

MOUNTING BOXES
One of the first steps in installing an electrical circuit is to mount
the boxes for the switches, receptacles, and lights (Fig. 5-1). These
boxes may be metal, or nonmetallic, such as plastic (see Fig. 5-2).
The nonmetallic boxes are popular because the single-gang
switchboxes don't require cable clamps, and they do not need to
be grounded. This saves time on installation, but both types have
their advantages.

MOUNTING SWITCHES AND RECEPTACLES

You can usually mount switches and receptacles on studs, but
often you must locate ceiling fixtures between joists. Adjustable

65
 Switch box

i
Receptacle box

44 to 48 inches

12 to 18 inches

^
Fig. 5-1. Boxes mounted prior to running wire.

hangers are available (Figs. 5-3 and 5-4). It is important to know

that there is aon the number of wires a box will legally hold
limit

(Table 5-1). This limit is based on the volume in cubic inches of

the box. There must be enough free space for all the conductors
that will be enclosed. The same boxes are available in different
depths. It only costs a little more to use the deeper boxes, but the
extra room makes it easier to fold the wires in place when installing
the switches, light fixtures, and receptacles.
Mount receptacles 12 to 18 inches above the floor, and the code
requires them to be close enough together so that no point along
the wall will be farther than 6 feet from an outlet.

66
 XS/"

r^
Fig. 5-2. Two types of electrical boxes. Nonmetallic box Metal box

^;
=^r 1^^
Adjustable hanger

^Ml
Hanger with box

\
,

y y
r/ / z- r^i 1/ / / / /
l^i
/ /

Hanger with box

mounted between joists

Fig. 5-3. Adjustable hangers are used to mount boxes between joists.

Q7
 Fig. 5-4. Ceiling fixture

supported by adjustable
hanger.

Position switch boxes 4448 inches from the floor and locate
to
them for easy access when the door is opened. They should always
be on the opposite side from the hinges, and you should install them
so that the front edges of the box will be flush with the finished wall
or ceiling. After the boxes are mounted, drill holes or cut notches,
and run the cable from the power source to the boxes, but don't
connect to the power until you have wired in the other devices. Avoid
twists or kinks in the cable, and when possible, route cable along
the sides of structural members such as studs, joists, and rafters
(Fig. 5-5).
When estimating cable length, draw a rough sketch of the cable
route. Add the distance between boxes and then the distance from
the ceiling or floor to each box. Then add about 2 feet for each box
to cover unforeseen obstacles and to make connections. When drill-
ing holes, use the smallest bit possible (About Vs or Va inch) to avoid
weakening the wood structure. Drill in the center of the studs. If

68
 Table 5-1. Various Box Sizes and the Number of Wires They Will Hold.

IMaximum Number of Wires

Type of Box Box Size in Inches
No. 14 No. 12 No. 10 No. 8

Outlet Box: 4 X I-V4 Round 6 5 5 4

4 X l-Vz or 7 6 6 5
4 X 2-V8 Octagonal 10 9 8 7
4 X I-V4 Square 9 8 7 6
4 X I-V2 Square 10 9 8 7
4 X 2-V8 Square 15 13 12 10
4-^Vi6 X I-V4 Square 12 11 10 8
4-^yi6 X I-V2 Square 14 13 11 9
4-^Vi6 X 2-V8 Square 21 18 16 14
Switch Box: 3 X 2 X I-V2 3 3 3 2
3x2x2 5 4 4 3
3 X 2 X 2-V4 5 4 4 3
3 X 2 X 2-V2 6 5 5 4
3 X 2 X 2-3/4 7 6 5 4
3 X 2 X 3-y2 9 8 7 6
Handy Box: 4 X 2-y8 X I-V2 5 4 4 3
4 X 2-y8 X 1-^8 6 5 5 4
4 X 2-V8 X 2-V8 7 6 5 4

the hole is you nnust install a

less than ^V4 inches from the edge,
metal plate to protect the cable from nails. Secure cables at least
once every 4 V2 feet and within 12 inches of each metal box and
8 inches of each plastic box. You may use staples (Fig. 5-6), but
take care not to damage the wires.
If you use a metal box, you must secure the cable to the box

by a cable clamp or cable connector (Fig. 5-7). Metal boxes must

also be grounded (Figs. 5-8 and The cable need not be secured
5-9).

to single-gang plastic switchboxes, and because they do not conduct

electricity, they are not grounded.
Cables are made up of a bundle of insulated and bare wires
inside a cover of insulation. Before you can make the connections
to a switch or other device, you must remove the outer insulation
and cut away any separation material. Then cut the wires to a
manageable length and strip the insulation from the ends to make
the connections.
you are installing a flat two-wire (with or without ground),
If

nonmetallic sheathed cable, use a cable ripper. Just slide the cable
ripper over the cable and up inside the box, then squeeze the
handles together and slowly pull down off the end of the cable to

69
Fig. 5-5. Cables routed along joists and through attic.

Fig. 5-6. Cables held in place with staples driven into wood nnennbers.

70
 1

MK
irTTTT

(^

Fig. 5-7. A cable clamp holds the cable securely as well as providing protection against
the rough edges of the hole.

cut or score the outer insulation. Next peel back this cover, and
cut off the insulation and any separation material with a pair of
dikes.
If you are installing the round, three-wire cable, such as the
kind used when wiring three-way switches, use a pocket knife or
utility knife, and cut it following the twisted rotation of the wires.
Try to cut between the wires without cutting their insulation. Never
cut any cable using your hand or your knee for a workbench. Use
a flat board or a nearby wall surface. Leave about 6 or 8 inches
of wire extending from the box to make up the connection, and fold
the wire back in the box (Figs. 5-10 and 5-11). When stripping the
insulation from the ends, be careful not to nick the wire. Wire
strippers work well for sizes up to #10. From #8 wire on up, use
a pocket knife in the same way you would to sharpen a pencil (Fig.
5-12).
When connecting a wire to a screw terminal, strip away about
V2 to Va inch of the insulation, and form a half loop in the uninsulated
end. Next hook the bare wire clockwise around the screw. This way,
when you tighten the screw, the loop will close around it. If the wire
ishooked counterclockwise, the loop will open and be forced from
underneath the screw head. Don't allow any of the insulated wire

71
 m \(p

Pigtail Grounding
clip
IVIetal box

Grounding
screw
Wire
nut
Grounding
wire

Fig. 5-8. Ground wire attached to a metal box by a Fig. 5-9. A grounding clip is sometimes used to con-

grounding screw. nect the ground wire to a metal box.

to be clamped by the screw head, and more than about

try not to let

Vi6 inch of bare wire extend past the connection. Limit screw
terminals to one wire. If you need to connect more than one wire
to one terminal, use a pigtail splice, (Fig. 5-13), which is simply three
or more wires connected together and one of the wires (the pigtail)
is connected to the terminal.

When replacing or installing switches, read the information on

the switch to be sure it has the same or higher current and voltage
capacity for that circuit. Today most switches and receptacles have
both screw terminals and push-in connectors. Switches found in
the home tend to be single-pole, three-way and four-way types.
Single-pole switches have a top and bottom and are mounted so
the toggle is up when the switch is on and down when the switch
is off. They also have two terminals with the same color. Only hot

wires are connected to switches, so with a single-pole switch it

doesn't make any difference which wire is connected to which
terminal. However, if the wires run to the light first, thus placing
the switch at the end of the run (Fig. 5-14), be sure to mark the
white wire with black tape to show it is a hot wire. To wire the switch
when it is in the middle of the run (Fig. 5-1 5), connect the two neutral
Make the ground (bare) wire connections,
(white) wires together.
and connect the two remaining black wires to the switch.

72
Fig. 5-10. Nonmetallic box mounted and wired for receptacle. Notice marking on
stud indicating receptacle.

Receptacles are also easy to Install (Fig. 5-16). Strip the ends
of the wires using the molded gauge on the back of the receptacle,
then make ground connections. You might have to make up a pigtail
if the receptacle is in the middle of the run (Figs. 5-17 and 5-18).

Insert the white wires in the holes in the back, on the side with the

73
Fig. 5-1 1 . Nonmetallic box mounted and wired for three switclnes.

Fig. 5-12. Number 8 wire and larger is normally stripped as you would when
sharpening a pencil.

(§^9

(Q^^
Fig. 5-13. A pigtail splice.

74
 Grounding wire between
bracket and box

White wire marked

with black tape

Fig. 5-14. A switch installed at the end of a circuit.

From source To light Hot wires

^S^

Bare ground wires

e^d
Fig. 5-15. A switch installed in the middle of a circuit.

silver-colored screws. Insert the black (hot) wires in the opposite

holes in the back. They should be on the same side as the brass
screws.
Most of the circuits in a home will be 15- or 20-amp general-
purpose circuits. Major appliances, however, require their own
individual circuit. Which appliance is considered major might be
confusing, so check with your local building inspector first.
Generally, your installations will meet the code if you consider the
following as major appliances: water heater, kitchen range, clothes
dryer, washer, dishwasher, garbage disposal, and any device that

75
 From source
White wire

Nonmetallic box

Fig. 5-16. A receptacle installed at the end of a circuit.

From source

White wires

Bare ground wires

Nonmetallic box
To next outlet

Fig. 5-17. A receptacle installed in the middle of a circuit.

76
Fig. 5-18. Receptacle in-

stalled in box.

employs an automatically started motor, such as a pump, oil burner,

or air conditioner. The code further requires that each appliance
be provided with proper overcurrent protection, as well as some
means for completely disconnecting the appliance from the circuit.
An electric range uses both 120 and 240 volts. When the burner
is set on low heat, uses 120 volts, but when the burner is turned
it

to the high setting, uses 240 volts. The code states that the
it

receptacle should be located within 6 feet of the location of the

77
 Surface mount Surface mount
receptacle receptacle

Fig. 5-19. Dryer receptacle: 30 amps, 125/250 volts. Fig. 5-20. Range receptacle: 50 amps, 125/250 volts.

appliance. In normal practice, however, locations are much closer.

Some areas require range receptacles to be installed in metal boxes.
Always consult the local building inspector.
A typical some appliances would be: dishwasher and
circuit for
garbage disposal, 1 20-volts and 20 amps wired with #1 2 copper wire;
an electric dryer, 1 20/240-volts and 30 amps wired with #1 copper
wire; an electric range, 1 20/240-volts and 50 amps wired with #6
copper wire. When the wires feeding the appliance come directly
from the service-entrance panel, three conductors (usually black,
red, and white) are necessary, but if they are fed from a subpanel,
a fourth (ground wire) will be required.
A dryer will use a 30-amp 120/240-volt receptacle such as
shown in Fig. 5-19. Note the opening marked \N. It is for the white
wire, while the other two are for the hot wires.
An electric range will use a 50-amp 120/240-volt receptacle like

the one illustrated in Fig. 5-20. In this case, two openings are angled,
while one is straight. The two angled openings are for the hot wires.

78
Fig. 5-21 . Air-conditioner recept-
acle: 30 amps, 250 volts.

and the straight one is for the white wire. These receptacles are
for 120/240-volt circuits.
A straight 240-volt such as one used for an air
circuit,

conditioner, will like the one shown in Fig. 5-21.

use a receptacle
Central air conditioners are usually fed from a subpanel located
near the unit.

LIGHTS
Light fixtures come already wired, usually one black wire and
one white wire, so becomes a simple matter to connect the black
it

Note: ground wire

not shown

From source

Fig. 5-22. A light at the end of a circuit where the power comes to the switch first.

79
fixture wire to tiie hot wireand the white fixture wire to the white
neutral wire (Figs. 5-22 and 5-23). You can usually attach ceiling
fixtures directly to an outlet box (Fig. 5-24); however, some are
supported by a threaded stud, which is supplied with the fixture.
When the fixture is to be flush with the surface make sure you allow
for the ceiling thickness (Fig. 5-25).

CEILING FANS
Wire in ceiling like you would a light fixture. Because
fans just
of the added weight, however, you will need to mount the box
securely. This usually means attaching the box directly to a wood-
en joist or brace between the joists (Fig. 5-26). You can use a
threaded eye bolt to attach the fan to the wood member. Screw
the bolt through an openingin the back of the box and into the wood-

en support. As with any fixture or device, do not place any strain

on any of the wires. Their only purpose is to conduct electricity.

Safeguards
Manufacturers normally include detailed instructions with their
fans. Thomas Industries, Inc., manufacturer of Lafayette fans,
includes the following information in its installation guide.*

Important Safeguards
1. To ensure a proper installation, read the instructions
carefully and review the diagrams thoroughly before handling your
fan.
2. Proper care must be taken when working with electrical
wiring. All electricity must be turned off at the main power box before
installing. Failure to observe this procedure may result in possible
electrical shock. All electrical wiring connections must be made in

accordance with all local codes, ordinances and the National

Electrical Code. If you are not familiar with the methods used to
install and hook up electrical wiring, you should secure the services

of a qualified electrician.

3. Measure your intended hanging site very carefully. Allow

enough space so that the rotating fan blades will not come in contact
with any obstacle.

•Reprinted by permission of Thomas Industries, Inc.

80
 From source

White wire used

for hot wire

Note: ground wire

not shown

Fig. 5-23. A light installed where the power connes to the light first.

Fig. 5-24. Outlet box for ceiling fixture.

81
Fig. 5-25. Ceiling fixture mounted flush with surface.

Fig. 5-26. Wooden support is used to support heavy fixtures and ceiling fans.

82
 .

4. When mounting the fan to an outlet box, a standard 4" x

2y8" metal octagon electrical box must be used. The electrical box
must be firmly secured to a joist or reinforced to be able to support
the hanging and moving weight of the fan (at least 40 lbs.). Failure
to properly secure the box an improper operation or
will result in
possible damage. Caution: Do not use a plastic electrical box. It
will not adequately support the fan.

5. Do not attach blades until the motor housing has been hung
and is properly secure. (To prevent marring or scratching of finish,
the motor housing should be kept in its carton until installation.)

Make sure that all connections and screws are tightened securely
to prevent the fan from falling, which could produce serious bodily
harm and damage.
6. The fan can be operated immediately after installation. The
fan ball bearings are adequately charged with proper type oil. Under
normal operating conditions additional lubrication will not be
necessary.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: The safeguards and operating instructions

in this manual cannot fully cover all possible conditions and
situations. To avoid any risk of injury, common sense and electrical
safety are a definite must.

Assembly of Switch Housing With Motor

See Fig. 5-27. Before removing the motor from its lower
Styrofoam base, place the empty Styrofoam top cover upside down.
Place the motor on this cover to prevent inadvertent scratching or
marring of the motor finish.

1 Join the terminal plug from the motor to the terminal plug
from the switch housing. The two plugs must be joined in the correct
direction so that the keys on both sides of one plug will fit completely
into the two side slots of the other plug. (Each plug has color coded
strips on its housing. When properly matched, the result is a correct
alignment.)
2. Attach the switch housing cover to the base of the canopy
and secure the three screws.

Assembly of Downrod with Motor

See Fig. 5-28. If you receive your ceiling fan with downrod and

83
 -Om

Fig. 5-27. Switch housing and nnotor. (courtesy of thomas industries, inc)

Black White
Green I £ Blue
(Ground wire) ^ _ f^^
^-\ I
Hang ball

Downrod

Canopy

Down rod
cotter key Downrod
cotter pin
Downrod
coupling
security Downrod
screw security
screw

Fig. 5-28. Downrod and motor, (courtesy of thomas industries, inc )

motor assembly already together, you can omit this assembly

procedure.

1 . Slip the canopy along the downrod so that covers the hang it

ball. Feed the black and white power wires and blue light wire

84
 ..

through the downrod (start at lower end) until they emerge from
the top.
2. Secure the downrod to the coupling properly to prevent
possible separation when the fan is operated in reverse mode.
3. Tighten the downrod coupling security screw. Loosen the
downrod security screw to allow for complete entry of downrod.
Place the downrod into the downrod coupling and visually align the
holes in both the downrod and downrod coupling. Then install the
downrod cotter pin through the holes and insert the downrod cotter
key. Secure by twisting the ends of the cotter key with a pair of
pliers so removal is not possible.

Test the assembly by attempting to twist the downrod. It will

hold when properly secure.

Assembling the Blades and Blade Holder

See Fig. 5-29.

1 Attach the blades to the blade holder by using screws and
the metal washers as provided.
2. There are three screws per blade that are threaded through
the washers, through the wood blade, and through the blade holder
arm.
Note: You may be required to follow a different method of blade
assembly if nuts are provided instead of flat washers. (See Fig.

5-29B.)
1The method to assemble the blades to the blade holder is
as above except for the use of lock spring washers and nuts.
2. The three screws per blade are threaded through the blade

holder, through the wood blade, and tightened through the regular
washer, spring washer, and finally tightened securely with the nut.

Fan Installation

See Fig. 5-30. Note: Before final installation, turn off electrical

power at main power box.

1 Securely position the mounting bracket to the ceiling junction

box by using the provided junction box screws and washers.
2. To avoid wobble or poor fan performance, be sure that the

mounting bracket is securely tightened against the ceiling.

85
 Screw

ir ir
Washer

"v:
Blade
holder arm Blade

Nut
Spring washer
Regular
washer

Blade
Blade
holder arm

Screw

Fig. 5-29. Assembling the blades and blade holder. (A) Assembly using screws and
washers. (B) Assembly using screws and nuts, (courtesy of thomas industries, inc)

3. the downrod carefully into the mounting bracket, then

Lift

turn the convex of the hang ball cushion into the slot position. Be
sure that the motor is firmly seated on the mounting bracket.
4. Tighten the downrod security screw. (Refer to Fig. 5-28.)

5. Use the provided wire nuts to wire connections together as

indicated. (Refer to schematic section Fig. 5-31).

a. Separate wires. Position green and white wires at one

side and black and blue wires at the other side of

junction box.
b. Connect the black wire from fan assembly to (positive)
black wire from the electrical power.
c. Connect the white wire from the fan assembly to the
(neutral) white wire from the electrical power.
d. Should you desire the addition of a light kit, join the
black and blue wires together and connect to the black
(positive) wire from the electrical source.
e. Connect the green wire (ground) from fan to house
ground wire.

86
 Junction
box
Mounting
bracket

Fig. 5-30. Fan installation, (courtesy of thomas industries, inc.)

f. The joined connections (splices) should be turned

upward and carefully pushed into junction box.
6. Slide the canopy up the downrod until is flush with the it

ceiling, and securely tighten the set screws in the canopy.

7. Attach one blade holder arm to the fan housing using two

blade-mounting screws. Rotate the motor by hand until the blade

is opposite you, then attach the second blade and additional blades.

(See Fig. 5-32A.)

Under normal operating conditions the directional switch should

be in the down position, which is best for summer operation. For
the best results in the winter, the directional switch should be in
the up position, which reverses the fan direction.

87
Fan controlled by pull chain Light controlled from wall

switch. Light controlled by switch. Fan controlled by pull

chain switch on light chain. Power lines

Wiring 120 V
Power lines
box ^ Green
120 V
Wh \ CO

"1
ground

[
Wiring box Light .— Green
switch
Ground to BIk
U-
mounting Ground
CD to
bracket nnounting

Fan Fan C J bracket

Blue Wh
BIk Wh

Light

Fan and light controlled by

independent wall switches. Power lines
120 V
Wiring
box

Light

Ground to
downrod
Fan

Fig. 5-31. Make electrical connections. Connect black to black, white to white, and green to
green or bare wire (ground). Make sure that fan is properly grounded. Note; Light kit leads
shall be suitably capped with a connector, secured with tape, and turned upward into the switch

compartnnent. (courtesy of thomas industries, inc)

Proper Balance for Your Fan

If your Lafayette ceiling fan exhibits a wobble during operation,

you must check the mounting system to determine if it was

improperly installed. The following procedures should alleviate the
problem.

88
 1 . Be certain that the mounting canopy has not become warped
by over-tightening the mounting screws. If this has happened, the
mounting ball will rock in the canopy instead of being seated tightly.

This can be corrected by loosening the screws, reseating the

mounting ball, and then carefully retightening the mounting screws
until just firm. In some cases, a gentle rocking of the ball in a circular
motion will seat it tightly against an already distorted mounting
canopy.

O
D
I
o
Down view of housing

Yardstick

Measuring
point

Fig. 5-32. Reverse fan direction, (courtesy of thomas industries, inc )

89
 2. The Lafayette ceiling fan canopy must always be securely
tightened against the ceiling to prevent a wobbly movement. This
is accomplished during the installation by the uniform tightening
of the mounting screws. It is important to make sure the ceiling
junction box is sufficiently supported. If the box is not providing
adequate support, then it must be additionally braced to avoid
irregular motion and possible damage.
3. Be sure that the downrod assembly is securely tightened

to prevent wobble. After any adjustment to the downrod, always

check to make sure that the lockscrew is firmly tightened.
4. Check to be sure that all the fan blades are firmly tightened
into the blade holders and that blade holders are also properly at-

tached to the flywheel.

5. Check to be sure that none of the blade holders is bent.
This will result in a blade being out of position. This can be corrected
by gently bending the blade holder back into the correct position.
6. A simple yardstick or ruler can be used to check for proper
tracking (Fig. 5-32B). Position the yardstick vertically against the
ceiling and even with the outer edge of the blade. Note the distance
from the edge of the blade to the ceiling. Turn the blades slowly
by hand to check the remaining blades. If properly aligned, the
measurement from the ceiling should be the same for all of the
blades. If a blade is slightly out of alignment, the blade holder can
be gently bent either up or down to align with the other blades.

have been installed, make the connection

After the devices to
the power source and turn the power back on.
Electrical wiring should be kept simple and straightfonward. Be
neat; sloppy wiring can be dangerous. It is the first sign of an ama-
teur at work and brings the effort under suspicion.

90
 6

Thermostats,
Door Chimes,
and Outdoor Lighting
Today most homes are equipped with central heating and
cooling systems. These systems are designed to efficiently maintain
a comfortable temperature inside the residence. The heart of the
comfort-control center is a sensing device we know as a thermostat.
The thermostat is simply a switch that responds directly to a change
in the temperature and automatically turns heating and air-

conditioning units on or off. They are usually operated jointly with

a thermometer set to the desired temperature.
Typical home thermostats operate on the principle that two
different metals expand in different amounts under the same
temperature change. These thermostats are made up of two strips
of different metals bonded together, often in the shape of a coiled
spring. If the surrounding temperature changes, the different metals
expand or contract unequally. As a consequence, the bonded strip
slowly bends in the form of an arc. This bending is the switching
action that makes or breaks the electrical connection, turning the
desired unit on or off (Fig. 6-1).

THERMOSTAT CIRCUIT HOOKUP

Some thermostats operate on line voltage (120 volts ac), but
more often, the heating or air-conditioning unit is equipped with a

91
 Contacts

\^ ImzD C ] Gmnl [nj]

Steel Brass

Bimetallic
arm

60 65 70 75 80
:^

60 65 70 75 80

Fig. 6-1 . Bimetallic thermostat, (A) Contacts open. (B) Heat causes brass to expand
faster than steel, which moves arm and closes contacts.

low-voltage transformer (Fig. 6-2). This transformer lowers the

control voltage to about 24 volts ac.
Low-voltage thermostat cable may have five or six color-coded
wires, depending on the units and the thermostats. Connections
are clearly marked on both the unit and the back of the thermostat
(Fig. 6-3) with letters such as W, Y, R, and G. Typically the W

connection will affect the heating relay. The V controls the cooling
contactor. The R will connect to the manual fan on, and the G will
operate the fan automatically in either heat or cool.

92
Fig. 6-2. Low-voltage transformer mounted on central heating/cooling unit.

Most thermostats have a small mercury-filled glass bulb at-

tached to the bonded strip (Fig. 6-4). This mercury makes the
electrical connections, so the base of the thermostat must be
mounted level.

93
Fig. 6-3. Back view of thermostat. Fig. 6-4. Mercury in glass bulb serves as switch.

Use a small level, and mark the spots for the mounting holes
with a pencil. Use a small drill bit to make the holes. (In drywall,
screw anchors may be necessary). Next mount the base on the wall,
and attach the cover (Fig. 6-5). Move the control to the off position,
then make the connections at the unit, turn the power back on, and
set the thermostat.

DOOR CHIME CIRCUIT AND TRANSFORMER

Doorbells may ring or chime, but they all operate from a low-
voltage circuit. The low voltage is provided by a transformer. The
transformer steps the 120-volt line voltage down to the voltage

94
Fig. 6-5. Thermostat
mounted in place.

raBianaBK,'.'
Fig. 6-6. Residential door chime.

95
 Box

Fig. 6-7. Wire connections to a transformer.

required by the doorbell or chime. For doorbells and buzzers, this

may be about 6 to 10 volts. Door chimes (Fig. 6-6), however, might
require a transformer that will deliver about 20 volts (Figs. 6-7 and
6-8).If you replace a bell with a chime, the sound might not be loud

enough; you probably will have to replace the transformer as well.

In low-voltage circuits, there normally is little danger of shock and

the installation is simple. Think of the low-voltage, or output,

terminals on the transformer as the power source for the circuit,

the bell or chimes as the load (Fig. 6-9), and the button as the switch
(Fig. 6-10). Figure 6-11 is a diagram showing a single-button
arrangement.
In some installations, one doorbell is not enough and a sec-
ond signal is needed for a back or side door. This is easily arranged
by adding another button Most door chimes are already
(Fig. 6-1 2).
equipped so that two chimes sound if the front button is pressed
will

and one chime will sound if the rear button is used (Fig. 6-13). The
terminals on the chimes are labeled front and rear for convenience
of installation.
Some local codes state must not be located
that transformers
in attic spaces. Check with the building inspector before making
any installations. Transformers can be found in closets, utility rooms,
and garages; however, the local code may state that the
transformers must be readily accessible and must not be positioned
near any combustible material that might create a hidden fire dan-

96
Fig. 6-8. Transformer mounted
on a metal box.

ger. The 120-volt supply could come from almost any 120-volt circuit
not controlled by a switch. Before replacing a faulty chime, check
it out. Often a chime will not sound because it is gummed up with
dirt and lint. In troubleshooting doorbell circuits, you normally need
to have the power source connected, but kill the power
if any work

on the input (120-volt) side of the transformer be done. is to

If there are 1 20 volts going into the transformer, check the low-

voltage side. You should find 10 to 20 volts, depending on the

97
Fig. 6-9. Chime striker mechanism.

transformer. Have someone press the button by the door while you
listen to the chimes. If you hear a humming sound, chances are

it's okay. The striker shaft may be binding and need cleaning. If

not, there is probably a break in the circuit or the button could be

bad.
To check out the button, carefully remove the cover (Fig. 6-14),
and remove the mounting screws (Fig. 6-15). Next simply jumper

P across or disconnect the two wires and touch them together. If this
sounds the chime, replace or repair the button (Fig. 6-16). Often
just cleaning the striker
connections will
mechanism or tightening a few electrical
bring back the musical voice to a silent door chime.

YARD LIGHTS
Yard lights will enhance the beauty of any landscape, as well
Fig. 6-10. Front
as provide safe travel down steps and walkways. It further offers
door button. additional security against intruders because few burglars will en-

98
 Bell

Button

^
Front door
^
Transformer
120-volt
source

Fig. 6-11. Illustration showing wiring for one door.

Back door

Transformer
Front door
120-volt
source

Button

Fig. 6-12. Illustration showing wiring for a front and back door.

ter a well-lighted area. If you want to Install a number of lights, a

120-volt system could become expensive, but by using low volt-
age, you will make the installation very simple and affordable. By
using 12 volts, you can install the wiring more easily, and you won't
have the shock hazards of a 120-volt system.
A transformer (Fig. 6-17), usually weatherproof and fitted with
a timer, is used to step down the residential 120 volts to a safe 12
volts. This also eliminates the need for the conduit and weatherproof
boxes normally associated with outdoor wiring.

99
 Chimes

.izju

Back door

Transformer
Front door

f^ <C^ ^ 1 20-volt
source

Fig. 6-13. Wiring arrangement where the front door sounds two chimes and the back
door sounds one.

A weatherproof receptacle will be needed for a power source.

Often you will need to install the receptacle to satisfy the needs
of a particular location. They usually can be installed behind an
existing receptacle inside the house. If the circuit is not already
protected, use a ground-fault receptacle with a weatherproof box
and cover.
Mount the transformer near the receptacle. Connect the wires
supplying power to the lights to the low-voltage side of the
transformer, and run the wire to the desired location. It's a good
idea to bury the wires a few inches. Try to locate them where they
are not likely to be damaged accidentally from digging later on. Each
set of lights will have about 50 feet of wire.
Installing the lights is usually just a matter of pushing the
pointed stands into the ground. Try to imagine the effects as you
positioneach light. You probably will need to relocate some after
you have tried them at night in order to achieve the desired effects.
A variety of light styles is available to satisfy different situations.
can provide illumination along flower borders
Tier lights (Fig. 6-18)
such as sidewalks and driveways, while floodlights (Fig. 6-19) hidden
by shrubbery close to walls can bring out architectural features.
Colored filters are usually available seasonal or festive moods.
Connecting the wires to the lights is usually accomplished by Fig. 6-14. Front door but-
simply pressing a clip from the light down over the wire (Fig. 6-20). ton with cover removed.

700
 Fig. 6-15. (left) Mounting screws removed, exposing
wire connections.

^M [«ftiitiiif» i^

Fig. 6-16. (above) Button disassembled, sinowing

electrical contacts.

Fig. 6-17. A weatherproof

timer.

707
 Fig. 6-18. Tier lamp.

Fig. 6-19. Floodlights softly illuminate wide areas

102
Fig. 6-20. Tier lamp showing wire connection.

Two metal prongs inside the clip pierce the insulation and make
the connection to the wires inside. Some assembly of the lights will
probably be necessary, but this is easily accomplished with a
screwdriver. Complete instructions are provided with each set of
lights.

103
 Upgrading an
Existing Service
If your HOME'S ELECTRICAL WIRING IS ADEQUATE FOR YOU NEEDS,
you might not want to run more wiring. However, you can upgrade
the service and safety of your home without tearing out walls, by
simply installing smoke detectors, dimmer or three-way switches,
timers, and other devices.

SMOKE DETECTORS
More and more city ordinances are requiring smoke detectors
to be installed in new construction. New homes in some areas must
have a smoke detector installed in each bedroom, as well as one
in the kitchen and one at the stairway. These home fire-alarm

devices are about the size of a small light fixture (Fig. 7-1). They
have been credited with saving many lives and sometimes proper-
ty by sounding an alarm early enough to allow the occupants to
escape and alert the fire department.
There are three different types of models on the market that
are designed for homes: ionization units, photoelectric units and
more expensive units combining both principles.
Ionization models respond 20 to 30 seconds faster than
photoelectric ones to fast-burning fires, such as those fed by burning

105
paper or flammable liquids. These few seconds might be critical

in this type of fire.

The photoelectric detectors, however, respond sometimes 20

minutes earlier to smoldering fires such as those caused by a cig-
arette dropped on a mattress or on upholstered furniture. This type
of fire tends to happen more often and probably should be consid-
ered a greater danger.
Logic would dictate that a unit that combined both principles
would be the best choice. However, such logic might be subject
to question for they are usually much more expensive and
sometimes have low levels ofperformance in comparison.
It is highly unlikely anyone will know in advance, what type of
fire will occur. It might be better to consider installing both an
and photoelectric detector.
ionization
You could locate the ionization model in a hallway near the
bedrooms. Studies seem to indicate that most fires occur
somewhere between 10:00 P.M. and 6:00 A.M.
You should place a photoelectric detector near the living area
where would detect smoke from a smoldering couch. Use one
it

in the bedroom anyone still smokes in bed.

if

Most smoke detectors can be mounted on the ceiling or the

wall. The ideal location would be in the middle of the ceiling. Wall
mounted detectors should be between 6 to 12 inches from the
ceiling, never more than 12 inches from the ceiling and never in
any corners. Try to mount the detector out of the path of ventilation
where the air flows past the device faster than in other areas of
the room.
Smoke detectors are available in battery operated or direct-
wired models. The direct-wired detectors are permanently wired into
one of the house circuits (Fig. 7-2), such as a bathroom circuit, where
it will readily be noticed if the breaker is tripped. The battery-
operated models operate independently of the home electrical
system, which might be an advantage if the home's supply is
interrupted for some reason. These units normally are powered by
a which should be replaced every
single, nine-volt alkaline battery,
year Most models will beep periodically to signal that the
(Fig. 7-3).

battery has become weak. These inexpensive life saving devices

are rapidly becoming necessities in today's homes.

106
 Test button

Fig. 7-1. An inexpensive smoke detector.

3'/2-inch octagon or
4-inch square box

Mounting bracket

From 120-volt source

Fig. 7-2. Smoke detector wired into house circuit.

DIMMER SWITCHES
Living and dining areas often have overhead lights that are too
bright for all situations. Dimmer switches allow you to vary the
intensity to suit the mood of the occasion (Fig. 7-4). Note that most

707
Fig. 7-3. Back view of smoke detector showing battery.

dimmer switches can be used only on incandescent lamps —the

conventional light bulbs normally found in our homes. Special
dimmer switches are required for fluorescent lights.
Normally these switches allow you to adjust the light from bright,

to medium dim, or anything in between. They have the additional

advantage of reducing electrical consumption when turned to any
point below full bright.
Dimmer switches are easy to install. First, turn off the breaker
for that circuit. Remove the existing switch and connect the wires

to the dimmer switch. Mount the switch and control knob, and the
installation is complete.

THREE-WAY SWITCHES
In the past, darkened stainways have been the cause of painful
hallways become much more useful if they can
injuries. Lights in

be switched on and off from either end of the hall. Sometimes it

would be handier if a garage light could be turned on and off from
inside the home, as well as the garage. Three-way switches can

108
Fig. 7-4. Dimmer switch used to vary light intensity, (courtesy of square d company)

help in these situations, and they offer some inexpensive insurance

against stumbling over some obstacle in the dark.
Despite their name, these switches operate in pairs to control
a light or receptacle from two different places, not three. Three-
way switches have three terminals; two terminals of the same col-
or, usually brass or silver colored, and one of another darker color,
often black (Fig. 7-5). There is no top or bottom or on-off marking.
The important thing is to locate the odd-colored terminal. This darker
terminal is often referred to as the common terminal.
Connect the hot wire from the source to the common terminal
of one switch, and the common terminal of the other switch to the
hot wire going to the light. Now you have two unused terminals of
the same color on each switch. Just run two hot wires from the two
terminals on the first switch to the remaining two terminals of the
second switch. Which wire goes to which terminal doesn't matter.
Notice in Figs. 7-6 and 7-7 that the ground wire is not shown. If
you are using plastic boxes, just crimp the bare ground wires to-
gether.

709
 @WS)
^

4'
Common terminal

(r\ <^2^ /~^ '^'9' ''^' '"ustration showing common terminal on

\:::y VI^ a three-way switch.

If a light needs to be controlled from three or more locations,

use a combination of two three-way switches and one four-way
switch (Fig. 7-8). For each additional location, just add another four-
way have four terminals and no on-off
switch. Four-way switches
markings. They should be installed in the middle of the run between
the two three-way switches.

TIMERS
Lights and other devices can be set to go on and off

automatically, day or night, by switches called timers. The wiring

on 120-volt timers is exactly like that for any other switch. Connect
the neutral (white) wires together, and the two hot (black) wires to
the switch terminal.
Hot-water heaters consume a large portion of the energy used
in homes. The installation of a timer in this circuit can reduce an
electric bill up to 30 percent. Be sure to use a timer with a high
enough current rating. Make certain the power is off and locked,
if possible. Then check with a voltage tester to be sure you turned

off the right circuit before you begin any work.

Timers are just automatic switches and can be mounted on

the wall near the water heater or alongside the breaker box. A
1 be fed by one hot (black) wire, one neutral
15-volt water heater will
(white) wire, and one ground (bare) wire. Wire it as described
previously. However, a 230 volt water heater will be supplied by

770
 Two-wire cable
with ground

Common terminal

From source Note; ground wire is

not shown

Fig. 7-6. Three-way switches wired where the power goes through the switches to

a light.

777
 White wire used
as hot wire

From source

Two-wire cable
with ground

Three-wire cable
with ground

Common terminal
Note: ground wire is

not shown

Fig. 7-7. Three-way switches wired where the power comes from the direction of
the light.

772
 White wire used
as hot wire
From source

Two-wire cable
with ground

Red wire

White wires

(§r^ rr
Three-wire cable
Three-wire cable
with ground
with ground

White wires

Four-way switch

Note: ground wire is

not shown

Fig. 7-8. Four-way switch wired between two three-way switches.

two hot,normally black or red, wires and a bare ground wire. There
probably will be no white wire. Terminal markings inside the timer
might read "line 1," "load 1," "line 2,and " "load 2." The water
heater will be the load, so connect the two hot wires coming from
the heater to the two terminals marked "load." "Line" means supply
voltage, so correct the two hot wires coming from the breaker to

773
 7.

mm Wj^
C*iniOII:CONTACTWITHI .

WILL CAUSE ELECTRIC SHOCK.

I BEFORE INSTALLATION OH SERVIC-

IKG OF TIME CONTROL On WATEH
HEATER DISCONNECT FOWER AT
MAIN PANEL
BE SURE THIS INSULATOn JS W
PLACE AFTER WIRING AND
SERVICINQ.

Fig. 7-9. Model TC-2 Timer Control. Terminals located under insulated cover.
(COURTESY OF PARAGON ELECTRIC COMPANY. INC )

the terminals marked "line." Connect the bare ground wire to a

grounding screw (often green) found in the cabinet of the timer.
Other timers such as the one shown in Figs. 7-9 may have terminals
marked with numbers 1 through 4. In this case, the timer is wired
as shown in Fig. 7-10.
Manufacturers always provide instructions for their particular
timers, so it is important to follow their guidelines. After you have
installed the timer, set the trippers for the times desired, then turn
the clock face clockwise until the current time is indicated by the
black pointer (Fig. 7-11). Return the insulated cover to its place,
then turn the power back on.

INSTALLING GROUND-FAULT INTERRUPTERS

The grounding wire in three-prong receptacles does lower the
risk ofshocks when used with a cord with a ground. Under normal
conditions, when the receptacle is being used, the amount of current
going to and returning from the receptacle is identical. If the amount

114
 To fuse or
breaker
box

Fig. 7-10. Wiring diagram, (courtesy of paragon electri company, inc.)

Fig. 7-11. Typical TC-2 program. ON: 5:00 a.m., OFF: 6:30 a.m. ON: 5:00 p.m.,
OFF: 7:00 p.m. (courtesy of paragon electric company, inc)

of current leaving the receptacle Is not absolutely the same amount

of current going in, the tool, appliance, or wiring is defective, allowing
some of the current to leak to ground. This is called a ground fault.

It could be particularly dangerous around damp locations such as

bathrooms, or garages, or outdoors. An inexpensive device that
offers protection from such circumstances is called the ground-fault
circuit interrupter (GFCI), shown in Fig. 7-12. The GFCI constantly
monitors the amount of current to and from the receptacle. If there

775
 Grounding wire
(green or bare)

Qwik-Gard
Line supply cable
Wall plate receptacle
wires from breaker panel)
(furnished Ljne L1
with GFDR) (black wire)-
Load L2 Ground termination
(black wire; if applicable)

Load circuit cable

(wires to additional
receptacles for
feed-thru protection)

Standard outlet box

Wire to be Connect to
Connected Qwik-Gard
Warning: fire hazard. Terminal
These terminals suitable |_Qg^ f^2
Line black (or Line LI
for copper wire only. .... . ,

^ r 4
(white wire)' colored) wire
Connection to aluminum
1
^

wire could cause a fire Line white wire Line N1

and result in serious
Load L2
Load black (or
bodily injury or property
colored) wire
damage.
Load white Load N2
*May not be present if

system wire
metallic conduit
D6501 6-002-70 serves as the equipment Bare or green Ground
grounding conductor wire

Fig. 7-12. A GFCI receptacle, (courtesy of square d company)

is the slightest deviation, about five thousandths amp, it instantly

opens the circuit, shutting off the power from the receptacle in about
1/40 second.
Install ground-fault receptacles like an ordinary receptacle,
except that they come
prewired. Just connect the leads marked
coming from the power source: black to black,
"line" to the wires
white to white, and green to ground. If you will wire in more
receptacles downstream, use the leads marked "load" to make the
connection. If no further connections are necessary, install insulated
wire nuts on each lead marked "load" and fold out of the way.
The GFCI receptacle and any receptacles wired downstream
are the only ones with ground-fault protection. Receptacles
connected upstream, toward the power source, will not be protected.

116
 After the installation is complete, you probably will have to push
the reset button to activate the outlet. If the unit does not reset,

turn the power back and check for nicked wires and proper
off
installations of receptacles downstream. Unplug any appliances
from outlets downstream. If the unit does reset, then plug a lamp
into the receptacle and press the test button. The button should
pop out and the lamp go off. If doesn't, the ground fault receptacle
it

is probably bad. If the button pops out but the light doesn't go out,

the unit is wired incorrectly. Check the "line-load" connections on

the back.
Circuit-breaker GFCIs can be installed in the breaker box (Figs.
7-13 and 7-14). They perform the same way as other GFCIs shutting
off the entire circuit and providing protection for a number of outlets.
Turn the power off when installing either GFCI. If you are installing
the circuit breaker type, the entire panel must be dead, so turn off

the main breaker. The code requires GFCI and

protection on
all 15-
20-amp receptacles installed for general use in bathrooms, garages,
and outdoor areas. Install the circuit breaker GFCI just like a
conventional breaker, except that it has a grounding wire that you
must connect to the grounded neutral busbar in the panel. Because
this unit is installed at the power source, it will provide ground-fault
protection to all of the receptacles on the circuit. The code requires
GFCI protection in new homes, but homeowners with older dwellings
also should consider this inexpensive safety device as a necessary
addition.

CONNECTING TO CIRCUIT BREAKERS

Most overcurrent protection today is provided by circuit
breakers. This method is preferred over fuses because fuses must
be replaced but circuit breakers can simply be reset to restore
power.
To convert an old fused system to circuit breakers requires the
replacement of the panel, either a subpanel supplying power to
branch circuits, or the main service-entrance panel, or both. If the
service-entrance panel has enough capacity to handle the new
subpanel, then you will need to replace the subpanel only. If not,
then you should replace both panels. When locating a new service
entrance panel, mount the new panel as close to the meter as
possible. The best location might be directly below the meter on
an outside wall or on the inside wall behind the meter.

117
 Fig. 7-14. A GFCI circuit breaker installed to protect a
branch circuit, (courtesy of square d company)

Fig. 7-13. A GFCI circuit breaker, (courtesy of square d

COMPANY)

Panels come in different sizes (Figs. 7-15 and 7-16), and models
are available with flush and surface mounting the flush mounting
is designed to between studs so that the outer surface is flush
fit in

with the finished wall. If there is enough room, install the new pan-
el where the old one is.

118
 II

Fig. 7-15. A cabinet showing neutral assembly located Fig. 7-16. A cabinet without breakers showing neutral
off to one side, (courtesy of square d company) assembly positioned on both sides of where the main
breaker will be. (courtesy of square d company)

you replace the service entrance panel, the power will have
If

to be turnedoff by the utility company. Plan to be without electricity

for a day or so. After the electricity has been turned off, disconnect
the wires coming into the old panel. Label the wires so you will be
able to identify each circuit, and mark them in the new panel. Tie
the wires up out of the way so you will have room to work. Remove
the old panel and hold the new one in place.

779
Fig. 7-17. An Indoor enclosure, (courtesy of square d company)

The new panel will probably be empty (Fig. 7-17). It might not
even have the main breaker (Figs. 7-18 and 7-19). Purchase the
individual circuit breakers separately, selecting them according to

the needs of each circuit.

Mark the holes for mounting the panel. If you are mounting the
panel on a concrete block wall, use anchor bolts. A 1/4-20 size should
work. Align the new panel so it will be straight and level.

720
Fig. 7-18. 150-225 amp and 70-125 amp main breakers, (courtesy of square d company)

Make the installation neat. After the panel is securely mounted,

install the circuit breakers (Fig. 7-20) and connect the wires. Check
over the installation. Make sure wires are secure and tight in their
connections. Install the cover (Figs. 7-21 and 7-22) and label each
circuit in the place provided. You should now be able to restore
the power.
If you cannot mount the new panel in place of the old one, then
you need a junction box. A box about 8x10 inches is a good
will

You might be able to use the old panel as a junction box.

size.
Remove the old incoming service wires, and disconnect all of the
individual circuit wires. If the old panel isequipped with a cover
or door where the inside can be closed off, then remove and discard
everything inside — fuse holders, neutral busbar, terminals, etc.
Install any unused holes.
knockout seals in

If the old panel work as a junction box, simply remove

will not
the old panel completely and install an 8- x -8 inch or larger junction
box. Then run the old wires into this junction box. Next run wires
from the new panel to the junction box, one cable for each circuit
and the same size as the old wires. Make the connections inside
the junction box using wire nuts, connecting black wires to black

121
Fig. 7-19. A cabinet showing only the main breaker installed, (courtesy of square d
COMPANY)

wires and white wires to white wires. The junction box will not have
a grounding busbar, but the box itself must be grounded. Connect
the wires from the junction box in the new service panel to the
individual breakers. Check all connections, replace the covers, and
restore the power.

122
Fig. 7-20. A circuit breaker being installed, (courtesy of square d company)

Fig. 7-21 . Shutter-type twistouts provide spaces

for circuit breakers, (courtesy of square d company)
Fig. 7-22. Circuit breai<ers with cover installed.

124
 Garage Doors
A NUMBER OF GARAGE DOOR OPENERS ARE ON THE MARKET, AND IN-

stalling one yourself can be very satisfying. At first thought, it might

sound like a sizable undertaking, but the average homeowner can
install one in a little over a half a day with only a basic set of tools.
A good-quality door opener can be purchased for about $150 to
$200 (Fig. 8-1). All systems come with a small remote transmitter
that sends a signal to the receiver in the unit inside the garage.
If more than one car will use the garage, additional transmitters

are available for about $30 each.

Models vary, depending on whether the installation will be for
a track or trackless garage door (Fig. 8-2). The unit should have
a light that comes on when the door begins to open. These are
usually timed to go off a few minutes after the door is closed. Safety
features normally include some type of automatic reversing mech-
anism if the door fails to close properly because of some obstruction,
such as the back of the car or a child's tricycle.
Most units are chain driven: however, one company has a
plastic track, or tape, that works very well. The drive motor can vary
from Va to Vz horsepower, depending on the size of the door.
Some models, such as the Stanley Premier model (Fig. 8-3),
have added features. This includes a vacation switch, which turns

725
Fig. 8-1 . Stanley's Deluxe Model Va-hp opener comes equipped with all of the basic

features, (courtesy of Stanley automatic openers)

off the power, disabling the opener. This model also comes with
a two-button transmitter equipped with Stanley's Signal-Block. The
extra button allows you to shut off the door opener from your car
as you drive away. This button offers additional security, as well
as prevents stray radio signals, such as aircraft transmitters, from
activating the door opener. A work light is another feature. The open-
er equipped with a
is pull switch that allows the opener light to be
used as a work light for the garage area.
A typical installation for a garage door opener would have a
120-volt receptacle mounted near the door operator. Sometimes
they are connected to the light circuit. In this case, a pull chain may
be necessary to operate the light because the switch will have to
be on all the time. If this is not practical, you can tap into the circuit
upstream from the switch where you will have full-time power. Run
#12/2 cable over to a suitable mounting surface near the operating
unit, mount the box, and install the receptacle. This way the door
operation will not interfere with the normal garage lighting.
While some openers are designed more for the professional
installer, some companies offer their product for the do-it-yourself
homeowner. They provide ample instructions and liberal illustrations
toenable almost anyone to install his own opener. Stanley even

726
 Ceiling-

Ceiling

Fig. 8-2. Two types of garage doors: track (A) and trackless (B). Be sure the model
opener purchased is type of door
for the it is to operate.

provides a toll-free hotline if you run into problems with the

installation.

TYPICAL PARTS AND ASSEMBLY

It is important to have some idea of what makes up a garage
door opener before you began the assembly Remember,
(Fig. 8-4).

garage doors are extremely heavy, even though they are usually
lifted with only a little effort. The easy manual operation is possible

through powerful balancing springs or torsion springs. Do not

127
Fig. 8-3. Stanley'sPremier Model features extras such as a vacation switch, work light, and
a two-button transmitter with Signal-Block, (courtesy of Stanley automatic openers)

Power cord
"=;
Mounting
Chain/cable
angle Traveler
and straps Tube sections(4)

Bar link
Idler
L link assembly
Lamphouse Header
bracket
Vacation switch

Work light
Door bracket
Manual
Antenna Power unit disconnect
Safety-open/close
adjustments

Fig. 8-4. Illustration showing the various components of a garage-door opener, (courtesy of Stanley
AUTOMATIC OPENERS)

disconnect or alter these springs; they are required for the safe
operation of the door.
It is a good idea to remove any ropes or cords attached to the

garage door. They could entangle sonneone later and cause an

128
injury. Rings, watches, and loose clothing also pose a safety hazard
when installing or servicing garage doors. Always follow the owner's
manual closely and work carefully and deliberately, always keeping
safety in mind.
Garage door openers have instruction manuals that are usually
easy to follow. Basically, the first step of the project would be to
assemble the unit. Position the drive chain around a sprocket, and
attach tracks or rails to the control unit.
Locate the center of the garage door. Try to be precise. There
is only one point of lift, so the load should be balanced. Next raise
the door far enough to establish the highest point of travel and mount
a support bracket, usually 2y2 inches above the highest point of
door travel (Fig. 8-5). Mount the drive unit's brackets, then attach
the assembled unit to its brackets (Fig. 8-6). Adjust door travel by
setting limit switches or control knobs, depending on the model
controller installed.

ADDING LIGHTS
For added convenience, you could install a light outside that
would lightthe driveway (Fig. 8-7). You could wire the light into the
timed lighton the control unit, and the light would go on when the
door is activated and off when the inside light times out.
A handy addition to this same light circuit would be a pilot light
mounted inside the home that would indicate when the door is open
(Fig. 8-8). Run the cable to a box the same as was feeding a if it

receptacle. You can use a socket with a small-wattage bulb, or you

can install a duplex receptacle and use a plug-in night light as the
pilot light.

Be sure to unplug the door opener from its receptacle; you don't
want to work on a live circuit. Next remove the cover from the control
unit, and locate the wires going to the light and a suitable knockout
for the cable coming in. Make sure you have a clear route, and then

feed the wire to the pilot light box. Then mount the box and run
the cable back to the control unit or handy box going to the control
unit.

If you are tapping into the outside light, feed the cable through
the knockout hole using cable clamps, cut the wires to the light,

and make the connections. Using a wire nut, connect the black wires
to black wiresand the white wires to white wires. You should have

729
 Ceiling-

Fig. 8-5. Header bracket mount-

ed above the center of the door
opening.

-Ceiling

120-volt
receptacle

Door arm Light

Fig. 8-6. Garage door opener

suspended fronn mounting brack-
ets.

three of each color. Plug in the door controller, and replace the cov-
er. The light and/or pilot light should come on if the door is open.
If a low-voltage more appealing, you can wire a
pilot light is

1 2-volt transformer into the wires going to the light and use a 1 2-volt

pilot light instead. If you use bell wire to supply the power to the

light, no box would be necessary. Simply drill a V2-inch hole in the

wall, and pull about 6 or 8 inches of bell wire through to make the
connections. Drill a hole in a blank electrical cover to mount the
light. Use a very small pilot drill for the mounting screws. After the

pilot light is mounted, connect the bell wire to the 1 2-volt side of

the transformer. Use #18 lamp cord to make the splice between
the wires going to the light in the door operator and the 120-volt
side of the transformer.
If the door opener light is not suitable, you can use a 1 2-volt
transformer, a 1 2-volt pilot light, and a magnetic switch of the kind

730
Outside light

Light

Door operator

Fig. 8-7. Door openers equipped with lights can easily

be wired to control an outside light.

1
Pilot light

Light y Door operator

Fig. 8-8. A pilot light can be wired to the opener light

to signal the operation of the door. This illustration shows
a low-voltage pilot light with the transformer mounted
inside the door operator.

used in burglar alarms (Fig. 8-9). You'll need a length of #18 lamp
cord with a plug to supply the 120 volts to the high side of the
transformer. The wire going to the pilot light and magnetic switch,
or switches, for two or more doors, can be bell wire or #24 speaker

tar
 Magnetic switch.

Magnet

=4V Pilot light

120-volt source

Fig. 8-9. A magnetic switch used to activate a low-voltage pilot light.

wire. Stranded wire is better if a number of bends or twists is

necessary.
If you want tiie pilot light to go on when the door is open, use

a normally open magnetic switch. This way the light will be off most
of the time and will be easily noticed when the door is open. The
only problem if the bulb fails and is not discovered; then the door
is

could be open unknowingly.

left

A normally closed switch will keep the pilot light on all the time
and then go out when the door is opened. The advantage of this
arrangement is that when the light isout the door will either be open
or the bulb will be burned out. However, any indicator or warning
light that is on when it is normally off seems to attract more attention
than the other way around. Just check the system from time to time
to make sure it's working.
Probably the first step in installing this a system is to find
location for the pilot light. Because
will be low voltage, no box
it

is necessary, but it should provide easy access for the wire. Then
decide on the location for the transformer. should be near a
It

120-volt receptacle and out of normal reach. After you have deter-
mined these locations, drill a V2-inch hole in the wall for the back

732
 of the pilot light, and run the bell wire or speaker wire from the
transformer location to the hole. Leave a few inches sticking through
the hole to make the connections to the light.

Drill a hole in a blank electrical cover and mount the light. The
leads on the bulb will probably be very short, so you will be able
to make the connections easier if you solder longer wires to the
leads prior to making the connections with wire nuts. To mount the
light assembly, feed the wires back in the hole along with the back
of the light, align the plate, and drill small pilot holes for the mounting
screws. Install the screws, but don't overtighten them if they're going
into wallboard or plaster.
Mount the magnet on the door and the magnetic switch on the
door frame. The switch must be within Va inch of the magnet in or-

der to operate. The door should be completely closed. Next mount

the transformer and connect the bell wire through the switches to

Fig. 8-10. Stanley's Light Maker™ Model provides options that include controlling outside and inside lights using
the existing house wiring, (courtesy of Stanley automatic openers)

733
the low (12-volt) side of the transformer. Connect the #18 lamp cord
to the 1 20-volt side of the transformer and install a plug on the oth-
er end. Plug in the transformer and make any magnet-to-switch
adjustments necessary.
While you're running the wire, you might consider installing
a burglar alarm. Just connect a 12-volt buzzer or horn and an on
and off switch in parallel with the pilot light. When the switch is off,

the system will operate normally, but when the switch is on, the
horn will blow when the door is opened and the pilot light comes on.
If your home is and
not equipped with a garage door opener
you want all of the extra features, you might want to buy an opener
that offers these features built in. Stanley U-lnstall Garage Door
Openers introduced the Light Maker (Fig. 8-10) in July 1987. This
opener has all of the basic features plus the capability for control-
ling a plug-in lamp, a switch that turns on a light such as an outdoor

or front door light, and a three-way wall switch that controls hallway
lights. Another option is an in-house garage-door-open indicator.
This little device plugs into any wall outlet, and uses three indicator
lights, to signal the status of the garage door. The best part of all
these features is that no additional wiring is necessary. The system
uses the existing house wiring to electronically transmit the
necessary signals.

734
 Adding a
Shop Circuit

A BRANCH CIRCUIT FEEDING A SHOP CAN BE APPROACHED THE SAME

as any other circuit. If the shop is not attached to the house, consider

underground service. Determine how much power will be needed

for motors, saws, drills, electric heater, air conditioners, etc. Should
it be 120 or 240 volts? If current requirements are large, you can

run heavier wires from a subpanel main breaker in the service-

entrance panel to a subpanel in the shop (Fig. 9-1). This panel would
contain the breakers for the individual circuits in the shop (Fig. 9-2).
Subpanels have the advantage of providing convenient access to
the circuit breakers and eliminating the need for a number of long
circuit runs.
If underground wiring is impractical and you must run it
overhead from the house to the shop, then you must follow the
code's restrictions (Fig. 9-3). The wires must be kept at least 10
feet above the finished grade, sidewalk, or any deck area that is
accessible to foot traffic. If the wires travel over a residential
driveway, they must be suspended at least 12 feet above the drive.
The code further states that no trees or other vegetation may be
used to support overhead conductors or equipment.
Wires running from the subpanel are connected to the breaker
in the service entrance panel just like any 120/240 branch circuit.

135
 30-amp circuit

breaker
in service
entrance panel

No. 10 three-wire cable

No. 10 three-wire cable \

LB conduit Junction box

Emt conduit for

connecting
UF cable

fV' to inside

cable
SI
^
12 to 18 inches

EMT conduit

K
\-No. 10 UJF cable
Conduit bushing

Fig. 9-1 . Service entrance with 30-amp breaker feeding shop subpanel through No.
10 cable.

In the subpanel, the supply wires are usually connected directly

to the hot busbars, since their main breaker is in the service-
entrance panel. The difference between the wiring in the subpanel
and the service-entrance panel is that the subpanel will have a
floating neutral busbar (Fig. 9-4); that is the neutral busbar in the
subpanel is not grounded by a grounding rod, and the ground
bonding screw is not installed. Neutral wires are grounded only at
the service-entrance panel.
The cable feeding the subpanel should have four wires: two
hot wires, one neutral, and one ground wire. Make circuit
connections in the subpanel by connecting first the hot wires to the
breaker, then the white wire to the floating neutral busbar, and finally

the ground wire to the grounding busbar, which is bonded to the

panel. This way the panel is grounded while the neutral is isolated
from the panel.

136
Fig. 9-2. Shop supanel. (courtesy of square d company)

Be sure use the proper cable. If the service is to be

to
underground, you can use type UF (underground feeder) cable if
you protect it by breakers in the service-entrance panel. You can
bury the cable directly in the ground. For residential installations,
the minimum depth is 1 2 inches, provided that the run is protected

137
 Street or alley Residential drive Sidewalk

Fig. 9-3. Minimum clearance for overhead wires.

From source

Neutral wire

Bonding screw bonding

ground busbar to

cabinet

Hot busbars

Bare ground wire

Floating neutral busbar

Fig. 9-4. Subpanel with floating neutral busbar.

by a breaker of 30 amps or smaller, otherwise, the minimum depth

is 24 inches. Where the cable enters a building, an LB is a

convenient fitting to use. The L describes the shape of the fitting

while the B means it opens in the back.

738
 When you are running the cable, don't pull it tight, but leave
plenty of slack in the trench. Don't backfill the trench with sharp
rocks. Surround the cable with a few inches of sand, and if there
is any chance of striking it with a shovel, bury a running board for
protection.
If the service is to be overhead, use weatherproof wire. This
wire cannot be used for normal wiring and can only be used it

overhead outdoors. Overhead outdoor wiring must not only be big

enough to carry the current for the circuits, it also must be large
enough to support its own weight even if coated with ice. The code
requires a minimum of #10 for spans of 50 feet or less, but for colder
areas, a size larger (#8) is more realistic.

Wires contract in cold weather, so allow a little slack for

overhead wires run in warm weather. If you do not, supporting
insulators might be pulled from buildings when the temperature
drops.
Use the proper weatherproof heads for leaving and entering
the buildings (Fig. 9-5), and maintain the minimum clearances as
described by the code.
After you have mounted the subpanel, run the individual circuits
to it just like for any other room, except that you will want to have

Outlet
Conduit
box
nipple

Cable

Cable

Fig. 9-5. Two methods of bringing wires into a building. (A) Simple entrance
different

cap requiring only one hole. (B) Entrance cap with nipple entering an outlet box.

739
 Ballast

Starter

Tubeholder

o
Cover plate

IS
Fluorescent tube

Fig. 9-6. Breakdown of a fluorescent light fixture.

extra outlets along the workbench. If two or three motors will be

plugged in and running at the same time, it might be better to split

the number of outlets into two circuits. Have an outlet for plugging
in a floating arm work light for the work counter. Some are equipped
with a magnifying lens for close work.
A fluorescent ceiling fixture can provide economical lighting
for the general area. Fluorescent lights use much less energy than
ordinary incandescent bulbs, and they last about four times as long.
They are available in both decorative and utility styles. The utility
model is just a metal box with a number of knockouts for different
entries for the cable, the ballast (transformer), and the ceramic
mounts for the tubes (Fig. 9-6). All of the parts can be purchased
separately for replacement later.

740
 You can use screws to attach these fixtures to ceiling joists,
or you can mount them on an outlet box just like an ordinary light
fixture. You can use a pull-chain switch, or wall switch to control

them. Most dimmer switches will not work on fluorescent lights.

141
 10

Adding
Telephone Jacks
More and more, homeowners are installing their own tele-
phone systems because of the high costs charged by telephone
companies and the ease and simplicity of the installation itself. Rates
charged by the phone company can vary from $50 to $75 an hour
after an initial service charge of approximately the same amount.
The materials are inexpensive, so almost all of the costs are for
labor. Anyone who can use a screwdriver and twist a wire around
a screw can add or upgrade an existing telephone service.

TELEPHONE SERVICES AND VOLTAGES

Voltages powering a residential telephone service may vary
from 48 volts dc to as much as 1 05 volts ac. Normally these voltages
are not dangerous, but you should take some you
precautions. If

have a pacemaker, you should not work on your telephone system

at all. Avoid working on a live telephone line. Take the telephone
off the hook or disconnect it at the main terminal box. Never work

on any wiring during a thunderstorm, and if holes are to be drilled

in walls, be alert for electrical wires and water pipes.

Residential telephone services enter the house in one of two

ways. The first way is through an overhead service connected to

143
 Aerial drop wire

Aerial service terminal

Terminal box

Fig. 10-1. Aerial telephone service.

a nearby telephone pole (Fig. 10-1). This method usually consists

of one cable containing only two wires. The pair of wires provides
service for one telephone number. If an additional number is desired,
usually another cable must be run from the pole to the house. If
the local network is unable to provide enough cable pairs, they may
install line-splitting equipment. So one cable pair can provide ser-

vice for two different telephone numbers.

The other method of service is underground (Figs. 10-2 and
10-3). Because of the problems involved in digging it back up, an
underground service usually consists of two cables containing three
pairs of wires in each cable. With six pairs of wires coming in, up
to six separate circuits (telephone numbers) can be installed. You
probably won't have six different telephone numbers for your home,
so if one pair of wires happens to go bad, there should be enough

unused pairs to quickly restore the service.

Whether the service is overhead or buried, the pair of incoming
wires will terminate in a plastic or metal box installed by the
telephone company (Fig. 10-4). This terminal box may be located
on an inside or outside wall of the residence, and unless other
arrangements are made, this is as far as the telephone company
goes.

144
Terminal box-

--<

Buried drop wire

.,.-.^

\ V
Service terminal \^ Buried cable

Fig. 10-2. Underground telephone service.

Nearly all boxes are equipped with fuses (Fig.

of the terminal
10-5). These fuses protect your telephone and associated wiring
from damage caused by high-voltage surges, such as those
generated by lightning strikes. Older installations might have boxes
not equipped with fuses. In these systems, the wires going to the
telephone include a ground wire. The surge of electricity could travel
through the telephone before it would dissipate through the ground
conductor to earth ground. Often the telephone company will re-
place a fuseless box without charge.

CIRCUIT CONNECTIONS
From the terminal box, run the wires to the wall jacks mounted
at thedesired locations wall jacks are sometimes called PMCs (plug-
in modular connectors). The number of telephones you install will
depend on your own personal needs, but the number that will ring
depends on the amount of power provided by the telephone
company. This is called the ringer equivalence number. Normally
there is enough power to ring about five phones (5 REN). On the
underside of the telephone, there should be a label indicating the
ringer equivalence (Fig. 10-6). Just add up all of the REN values
of your phones, and as long as the total doesn't exceed 5, they
should all ring. If the value is greater than 5, they should still work,
but not all of them may ring.

745
Fig. 10-3. Marker showing buried cable. Fig. 10-4. Weatherproof terminal box.

Wires supplying service to the individual jacks may be

connected where the service enters
directly to the terminal box,
the house (see Fig. 10-7), or they may connect to an
existing phone
jack (Fig. 10-8). Choose the location that is most convenient. You
may need only two wires now, but for future use it is a good idea
to run extra wires. A typical number would be two pairs of wires
(Fig. 10-9). Most homes constructed in the last few years have had

the telephone service installed during the framing stage (Fig. 10-10).
The wires are run inside the walls, making the installation much
more attractive.
Another option is a crawl space under the
to run the wires in
floor (Fig. 10-11). Then bring them up through the floor close to the
baseboard of an inside wall. You also can choose to run the wire
along an exterior wall to the desired location (Fig. 10-12) or around
or beneath a roof overhang (Fig. 1 0-1 3). Inside the house, you can
conceal the wires behind moldings and under carpets along
baseboards, or simply staple them neatly along the tops of

746
 Drop wire

To phone Fuse
To phone
I I

Drop wire

Ground wire -^ -^=r

Green wire

Three-pair wires '^

Ground wire
to telephones

Fig. 10-5. Terminal box with typical wire connections to two telephones.

!l ?7
1
\j^

w # L
1

I f

Fig. 10-6. Label on the back of the

wd
phone gives the REN.

747
 1

PMC

PMC

PMC

I
"^
Terminal
box
Drop wire

Fig. 10-7. Phone jacks wired where each jack is connected directly to the terminal box.

PMC^
^ r 1
\
PMC

^) PMC
P

PMC«

1—
^
\ Terminal box

Drop wire

Fig. 10-8. Phone jacks wired in series.

148
 Yellow

Black

Fig. 10-9. A popular inside telephone wire consisting of two pairs.

Wall box

Ground

Fig. 10-10. Prewired building.

baseboards and doorways (Fig. 10-14). You might find it convenient

to run the wire through a wall to the next room (Fig. 10-15). Just
try to make the wiring as inconspicuous as possible.
When mounting the wire, avoid using ordinary staples because
they might break through the insulation and short the wires inside.
Insulated staples are available at most hardware stores. Tap them
in gently with a small hammer. Avoid routing wires along heat ducts

749
 —

Drop wire

Terminal box

Ground ^
•Crawl space entry v phone wire

Fig. 10-11. Method of running wires under the floor.

Terminal box

Drop wire

Wire to phone
Ground wire
<— *—t 1 1— I I I— I
h-

Outside wall

Three-pair
phone wire
Hole drilled at

angle to keep
moisture out

Fig. 10-12. Wire to telephone wrapped around outside of house to point of entry.

150
 Fascia

Phone wire

Outside wall

Fig. 10-13. Phone wires running underneath roof overhang.

Phone wire-
Phone wire-

^ r
Baseboard-
Carpet ^^
i^@

Fig. 10-14. Telephone wire can be run along the top of baseboards (A)

or under the edge of the carpet (B).

Fig. 10-15. Fishing a wire through a wall.

Wire hook

V
I^
757
or metal pipes. In a few cases, metal objects might cause
interference with sound quality.

It good practice to complete the installation of the new

is

telephone jacks and leave the connections to the power source for
last so you are not working on a live circuit. Normally the voltage

isn't enough to harm a healthy person, but if the telephone should

happen to ring, the voltage could increase to between 75 and 100

volts. Simply take the other telephone off the hook. In addition, you
might want to stand on a dry piece of carpet or some other insulating
platform.
When connecting the wires to the telephone jacks, look closely
at the jack. You will see letters indicating what color wire is attached
to each terminal (Fig. 10-16). Red, green, yellow, and black are the
standard colors. Modular connectors have either four or six copper
pins. Four-pin connectors have pin numbers and 5. Six-pin
2, 3, 4,

connectors have pin numbers running 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. In both

cases, the two innermost pins are numbers 3 and 4. Connect these

Fig. 10-16. Wire jacks following the color code.

752
two pins to the two terminals where the incoming pair are connected.
If red and green wires are used at the terminal box, then the red
and green wires at the jack should go to pins 3 and 4 of the modular
connector. If you have six wires in your installation, you will have
additional colors with combinations of blue, white, and orange. The
important point is to stay with a color code.
If you have connected the right pair, you should be able to plug

in the telephone, hear a dial tone, and call out. If you have a dial

tone but can't call out, try reversing the wires at either the terminal
box or the jack— one or the other but not both. Some telephones
operate with polarity (a negative and positive) and the wires might
need to be switched.

Surface-mount Surface-mount
hard wire PMC

® ®

U
®

Flush-mount Flush-mount
hard wire PMC

Fig. 10-17. Telephone jacks.

753
 You can use pins 2 and 5 for a lighted dial or touch pad. Use
the remaining black and yellow wires to connect to these pins. If

your system uses six wires, you can use the last two wires for a
separate telephone number or simply tuck them aside to be used
as spares.
Wall jacks come in a variety of sizes and configurations. They
can be surface or flush mounted (Fig. 10-17). A duplex jack is
available for plugging in two telephones at the same location. There
is even a weatherproof jack for an outdoors location by the pool
or patio.
An installation kit is available from AT&T telephone centers for
about $25. This kit is called Add-An-Outlet, and it contains 50 feet

of wire and all of the necessary hardware to install three telephone

jacks. The kit comes complete with instructions and a special wire
stripper.

154
 11

Troubleshooting
Techniques
Usually THE FIRST SIGN OF APROBLEM IS WHEN SOMETHINGDOESNT
work — the microwave won't start or the television won't come on.
A check at the circuit breaker or fuse panel often reveals a tripped
breaker or blown fuse. One good thing about fuses is that the little
window gives you a clue as to what happened. If the window is

scorched, or darkened from heat, the failure is probably caused

by a short circuit. The little metal strip inside is instantly heated
to such a high temperature that vaporizes and discolors the
it

window. If window is clear, the metal strip simply overheated

the
and melted. The overheating is probably caused by an overloaded
circuit. With circuit breakers, you only know something has

happened.
There are other reasons circuits fail, such as loose connections
and improperly seated fuses, but the most common problems occur
from short circuits and overloads. A short circuit means that a shorter
path to ground was provided instead of the desired circuit. Faulty
appliance cords are a common source of trouble. Frayed or worn
insulation allows a bare wire to touch another bare wire or grounded
metal housing, producing a short circuit. The current suddenly
increases beyond the capacity of the fuse or breaker, and the circuit
fails.

755
 You can usually find short circuits in a matter of minutes
because most problems occur in flexible cords, plugs, or appliances.
Look for blackened areas on outlets or charred or frayed appliance
cords plugged into the dead circuit. Replace the damaged plug or
cord, and replace the fuse or reset the breaker.

LOCATING THE PROBLEM CIRCUIT

If no visible evidence of any problem, unplug all the
there is

appliances, and turn off all wall switches on the dead circuit. Then
replace the blown fuse or reset the breaker. If the new fuse blows
or the breaker trips, remove the fuse or make sure the breaker is

off. Now remove the cover and pull out the switches or receptacles
one a time. Look for charred insulation or burn marks caused
at

by a bare wire touching the back of a metal box. The switch or

receptacle itself might even be broken. Replace the damaged wire
or broken switch or receptacle, and restore the power.
If the new fuse doesn't blow or the breaker trip, turn on the
wall switches one at a time until the fuse blows or the breaker trips.

The problem is probably in the fixture controlled by the switch or

the switch itself. Make sure the circuit is dead, then inspect the
fixture and switch. Look for the obvious black marks, charred wires,
or burned wire connections. Repair bad connections or replace the
faulty fixture or switch. Then restore the power.
If the fuse doesn't blow or the breaker trip and all of the switches
are on, then the problem is in one of the appliances you unplugged

earlier. Plug in and turn on one appliance at a time until the circuit
fails. If the fuse blows or breaker trips when the appliance is plugged
In, inspect the plug and cord, but if the circuit fails only when the
appliance is turned on, the switch or the appliance itself is defective.

COMMON PROBLEMS AND FAULTS

It doesn't happen often, but sometimes the circuit wiring is

defective. A staple might have been driven in too far and broken
the insulation. The problem might not be discovered until
condensation creates enough moisture to cause the short. To
determine if the wiring is defective, you must remove all of the
devices from the circuit. If the problem is still there, then the breaker
might be bad or the wiring faulty. Try a new breaker first, but if that

156
doesn't work you need to run a new cable and abandon the
will

old one. With the power off, use an ohmmeter or some type of
continuity tester to determine which part of the circuit is shorted,
then just replace that run.
By far, most and cords.
short circuits are caused by faulty plugs
The constant flexing and sometimes abuse causes them to wear
quickly. Some of the danger signs relating to cords and plugs
include burn marks around the plug, intermittent operation of the
appliance, and physical damage of the cord when it is badly frayed
or the insulation is brittle. In these instances, replace the old cord;
don't repair it (Fig. 11-1). Excessive heat, when the cord or plug
is warm to touch, is an indication of impending problems.
Power cords vary in size, but in order for them to be flexible,
theyall contain only stranded wire. Most plugs for small appliances

have two prongs, but some will have three (Fig. 1 1-2A). The third
prong will have a different shape; this is the ground connection.
Another plug that may need attention is the appliance plug (Fig.
1 1-2B). It is surprising the number of faulty plugs that go unattended,
when only takes a few minutes to replace them.
it

Lamp sockets also can cause problems, but they are also easy
to replace (Fig. 11-3). You can find a broken plug or loose prong
through a simple inspection.
Take a look at the plug and receptacle. Is one prong larger
than the other? (See Fig. 11-4) If so, the smaller prong or slot is

the hot or live one. Make sure the black wire is connected to that
side. Keep in mind that any connection that is not electrically and
mechanically tight will generate heat and eventually cause a
problem.
Receptacles are easy to replace. Buy a receptacle identical
to the one you are replacing. If the old receptacle has only two slots,
it ungrounded and you should replace with an ungrounded one.
is it

If the old receptacle has the two slots plus one round hole, replace

it with the grounded type receptacle.

First make sure the circuit is dead, then remove the cover plate.

Next remove the two mounting screws one at the top, and one —
at the bottom. Now carefully pull the receptacle forward from its

box. Pull it forward just enough to get at the connections. This way
the wire is easier to fold back into the box later. If part of the
receptacle is controlled by a wall switch, the break-off tab between

757
 Insulator

Inner
insulation

Cord

Plug

Outer
insulation

Underwriters knot

V2 inch

Fig. 1 1-1 . a new plug, separate the cord about 2 inches. If there is an outer
To install

insulation, have to be removed first. Next slip the cord through the plug and
it will

tie an Underwriter's knot in the cord. Strip off about V2 inch of the insulation and

loosen, don't remove, the terminal screws. Twist each of the stripped ends clockwise,
then wrap each wire, also clockwise, around the terminal screws and tighten.

158
 Insulator

Terminals

Green wire on Screw

green terminal

Black wire
on brass
terminal n-
White wire on / / Spring guard
silver terminal

A B

Fig. 11-2. A typical 3-prong plug (A) and an appliance plug (B).

the brass screws has been removed. You need to break the tab
on the new receptacle to make it identical to the one you are
replacing (Fig. 11-4).
If them from the old receptacle,
the wires are long enough, cut
strip the ends, and form new loops. Opening and closing the loops

makes them brittle, so is always better to work with new loops,

it

if possible. Remove one wire at a time, and bend to the side to it

help make sure they go back the same way they came off. The black
wires go to the hot side, with the brass or dark screws, and the white
wires go to the neutral side, with the silver colored screws. Most
new receptacles have their screws already backed out, so loop the
wire clockwise around the screw and tighten Don't use excessive it.

force; very snug is what you want.

A number of today's receptacles offer the option of back-wiring
(Fig. 11-5). In this case, the bare wire ends are straight. Simply insert
them connection holes in the back of the receptacle. The
into the
hole has a clamping action, which secures the wire. A slot next to
it is used to release the wire. Insert a small screwdriver in this slot

to release the wire.

To replace a switch, first make sure the circuit is dead. Then

remove the cover plate and the switch's mounting screws. Next,

759
 Socket shell

nsulating
sleeve

Socket

Switch

Underwriters
Socket cap
knot

Set screw

Treaded tube

Fig. 11-3. To install a new lamp socket, slip the cord through the socket cap, tie

the Underwriter's knot, strip V2 inch ot insulation from the ends of the wire, and twist
each end clockwise. Next loosen (don't remove) the terminal screws. Then wrap each
wire clockwise around the screws and tighten.

160
 Small slot

Hot wire
Neutral wire
from switch
from source

Remove nc
break-off tab u i

Hot wire
from source

Fig. 11-4. Some plugs are intended to be used only Fig. 11-5. The back view of a receptacle showing the
one way and have one prong wider than the other. In holes used for back wiring.
such cases, the small slot should be connected to the
black, or hot wire. The neutral wire is connected to the
terminal of the larger slot.

carefully pull the switch forward from its box, just far enough to
disconnect the wires. If the wires are long enough, cut them from
the switch and make new loops. You might find a black wire and
a white wire instead of two black wires. This may seem like a
is the only case in the code
violation of the code, but a switch loop
in which the white wire can be used as a hot wire. Align the new
switch so thatwhen the toggle is up, the switch will be on, and then
connect the wires. You might want to try the switch before you
continue the installation. Turn the switch to the on position, make
sure it's clear, and restore the power. If the light works, turn the
power back off, install the switch in the box, and replace the cover.

OVERLOADS
The other common cause of circuit failures is a circuit overload.

This problem can sometimes be identified when the fuse blows;

the little window remains As you add appliances to a circuit
clear.
the current increases to meet the demand. If enough appliances

are added, the current will exceed the safe capacity of the circuit
and the fuse will blow or the breaker trip. The kitchen is the most
common area for this to happen. A microwave, a toaster, and an
electric skillet on the same circuit is usually all it takes for this prob-
lem to occur. To solve the problem, the easiest way is to plug one

161
of the appliances into an outlet from another circuit. The code
requires that at least two 20-amp appliance circuits be installed to
supply the kitchen.
If there are enough outlets, you might want to split the circuit
and make two circuits (Fig. 11-6). The best way is to divide the circuit
in half, if possible. You will have to run a new cable from the service-
entrance panel. Pick out a suitable receptacle to separate the two
halves of the circuit. Turn off the power to the
and remove circuit,

the receptacle from its box. You should find two white and two black
wires, plus the ground wires, in the box. They will be the cable
coming from the service-entrance panel and the cable continuing
on to feed the outlets downstream. You'll have to guess which one
is coming from the panel.

Disconnect one cable from the receptacle, separate the wires,

and bend them back out of the way. You now have only one set
of wires connected to the receptacle: one white, and the other black.
Plug a lamp into the receptacle, and make sure that all of the free

New cable
Junction box from

L panel

t Original
cable
from panel

yii
Remove old wire

Fig. 11-6. A kitchen circuit with the receptacles split.

162
wires are well separated. Now turn the power back on. If the lamp
lights, the cable from the panel is still connected to the receptacle.

This iswhat you wanted. If the lamp doesn't light, then turn the
power back off, reconnect the wires you disconnected, and
disconnect the other wires. Make sure the wires are clear, and see
if the lamp lights this time. It should. If the receptacle worked before,

one of the two cables coming into the box must feed the receptacle.
After determining which cable is which, turn off the power,
loosen any cable clamps, and pull the cable feeding the downstream
receptacles from the box. This process will be easier if you have
a helper. You might need to pull the cable from the attic or the
basement. Have someone jiggle the selected cable so you will know
which one to pull. Do not jerk the wire. Instead, apply steady pulling
pressure.
Once you have the cable feeding the second half of the circuit
free, run thenew cable from the service-entrance panel to a point
convenient to joining the two cables. If the old cable was damaged
when was removed, cut the damaged part off. Securely mount
it

a junction box and use wire nuts to connect black wires to black
and white wires to white. Connect the ground wires together. If the
box is metal, also connect a bare pigtail ground wire to the box.
Make sure each wire is securely connected, then install the
cover. You can put the receptacle that was left loose back in its
box and install the cover after you retighten any loosened cable
clamps. Connect the new cable to an appropriately sized breaker
in the service-entrance panel and restore the power.

163
Appendices
 Appendix

Material Costs
After you have decided on a project and that you can do the
job yourself, probably the next question will be how much will it cost.
The finished cost of any project is reflected mostly in labor with a
small portion going to materials. Wiring projects are a good example.
Because of more efficient manufacturing due to competition, and
the increasing use of plastic boxes instead of metal, electrical
hardware has remained inexpensive. The price of copper wire
fluctuates with the world price of copper, but the copper wire used
in residential and 10-2) tends to be a leader item for
wiring (12-2
the electhcal supply houses and remains relatively stable. To a large
electrical contractor competing in the market and using hundreds
of feet of wire a day, the cost of material is watched closely. For
the homeowner, however, the wiring job will be smaller and
materials will be fewer. A material increase of 10 percent to a
contractor could mean a cost difference of hundreds of dollars, while
a $50.00 material bill to a homeowner would only increase $5.00.
This should not be enough to discourage anyone wanting to improve
their home electrical system.
To estimate a job, count the outlets, add the cost of the fixtures,
then estimate the amount of wire needed. Add about two feet extra
for each outlet for mistakes and to make up the connections.
For example, to install two three-way switches for an existing
hall light, you might expect to spend about $15.00 for two switch-

167
es. Twenty-five feet of 12-3 wire will cost about 33 cents a foot,
bringing the wire cost to about $8.25. This brings the cost to about
$23.25. Using the existing switch box, you'll need one more switch
box and plate— about another dollar, this brings the total to about
$25 for material. You might get an electrician to do the job in

his off time for $100, labor and material.

Labor costs vary considerably depending on the area you live,
but material cost should be about the same.
The following price list is for a general reference only. The
values listed are approximate. Contact local electrical supply houses
for a more precise figure.

MATERIAL COSTS
Tools
Cable ripper $1.50
Channellocks $20.00
Crimpers $10.00
Dykes $12.00
Lineman's pliers $13.00
Needlenose pliers $5.00 to $8.00
Neon tester $2.00 to $5.00
Screwdriver $3.50 to $4.50
Stripper/crimpers $4.00 to $8.00
Tape measure $8.00 to $10.00
Volt-ohmmeter $15.00 to $85.00
Wiggy $20.00
Wire stripper $3.00

Service-Entrance Panels with Main Breaker Installed

100-amp indoor w/o circuit breaker $100.00
200-amp rainproof $140.00
200-amp indoor $220.00
200-amp rainproof $260.00
Subpanel for shop $20.00 to $30.00

Circuit Breakers One Pole Two Pole

15 amp $6.00 to $8.00 $22.00

20 amp $6.00 to $8.00 $22.00
30 amp $6.00 to $8.00 $22.00

768
GFCI Circuit breaker $55.00 to $65.00 (20 amp),
depending on the brand
Weatherproof head $3.00 to $6.00 (plastic)
LB conduiet $5.00 to $6.00

Boxes (Plastic)

Switch/receptacle $ .30
Two-gang switch/receptacle $1.30
Light fixtures $1.30

Boxes (Metal)

Switch/receptac;le $ .84
Two-gang switch/receptacle $2.25
Light fixtures and junction $1.50 to $1.75

Receptacles
Duplex $3.50
Air condition $8.00
Range $10.00
GFCI $15.00 to $55.00

Switches

Single pole $2.50 to $4.00 (quiet type)

Three way $7.00 to $8.00
Four way $14.00
Dimmer switch $8.00 to $12.00

Wire
Size Price per Foot Price per Roll

14-2 WG NM $ .15 $19.00 to $22.00 (250 ft.)

12-2 WG NM $ .19 $25.00 to $30.00 (250 ft.)

12-2 WG UF $10.00 (50 ft.)

12-3 WG NM $ .33 $77.00 (250 ft.)

12-2 WG NM $ .41 $77.00 (250 ft.)

10-3 WG NM $ .59 $100.00 (250 ft.)

8-3 WG NM $1.33 $124.00 (125 ft.)

169
Miscellaneous
Wire nuts $7.00 for a box of 100
Electrical tape $1.50 per roll
Telephone wire
2 pair (4 wires) $10.00 (100 ft.)

3 pair (6 wires) $14.00 (100 ft.)

Telephone jacks
PMC $3.00 to $4.00
Ceiling fans $40.00 to $150.00
Door chimes $20.00 to $70.00
Garage-door openers $150.00 to $200.00
Low-voltage
yard lights $45.00
Smoke detectors From about $10.00 for a battery
type to $35.00 for a 120-volt. Add
$1 0.00 to $1 5.00 more for the bat-
tery backup.
Thermostats $25.00 to $35.00
Water-heater timers
100 volt $35.00
220 volt $40.00

170
Glossary
 Glossary
alternatingcurrent— Current that regularly reverses its direction, flowing
one direction then the other. Abbreviated AC or ac.
first in

ampacity— The amount of current, expressed in amps, an electrical

conductor can carry continuously without exceeding its temperature
rating.
ampere— A unit used in measuring electrical current, abbreviated amp.
It based on the number of electrons flowing past a given point in one
is

second. It can be determined by the Ohm's Law formula, (current) I

= watts divided by volts.

AWG(American Wire Gauge)— The adopted standard of wire sizes such
as No. 12 wire. No. 14 wire, etc. The larger the number of the wire,
the smaller the size of the wire. A No. 1 4 wire is smaller than No. 1 2 wire.

bonding— The permanent joining of metal components of an electrical

system to form a continuous, conductive path capable of handling safely
any current likely to flow.
bonding jumper— A reliable conductor between metal parts where the
parts may be temporarily separated at some time.
bonding jumper, main— The connection between the neutral bar in the
service entrance panel and the panel.
—
branch circuit Any one of a number of separate circuits distributing
from an overcurrent protection device.
electricity
busbar— The solid metal conductor in a distribution panel that provides
a common connection between the main service and the branch circuits.

773
 —
cable A stranded conductor or a group of individual conductors insulated
from each other.
cable, entrance— A heavy cable used to supply electrical service from
the main line to a building.
cable, nonmetallic sheathed— Two or more insulated wires assembled
inside a plastic sheath. Type NM is used in dry locations. Type NMC
may be used in both dry or damp locations.
circuit— An electrical conductor forming a continuous path, allowing
current to flow from a power source through some device using
electricity and back to the source.
circuit breaker— A safety switch installed in a circuit that automatically
interrupts the flow of electricity if the current exceeds a predetermined
amount. Once tripped, a circuit breaker can be manually reset.
conductor— The trade name for an busbar capable
electric wire or of
carrying electricity.
continuity —
The state of having a continuous electrical path.
current— The transfer of electrical energy caused by electrons traveling
along a conductor, abbreviated I.

cycle— One complete where a forward flow

reversal of alternating current
(positive) is followed by a backward flow (negative). The standard rate
in the United States is 60 cycles per second, now called 60 Hertz.

duplex receptacle— A receptacle providing electrical connections for two

plugs.

fuse — A safety device installed in a circuit designed to interrupt the flow

of electricity should the current exceed a predetermined amount. Fuses

cannot be reused.

ground— A conducting connection between earth and an electrical circuit

or equipment, whether intentional or accidental.
ground clamps — Metal clamping devices used to connect a wire to earth
ground, often through a ground rod or water pipe.
grounding electrode conductor— The conductor from the neutral busbar
in the service entrance panel to the established ground.
ground-fault circuit interrupter— A safety device installed in a circuit de-
signed to protect personnel by detecting very small currents and
interrupting the flow, abbreviated GFCI.

—
hot busbars The solid metal bars in service entrance panels and
subpanels where the power source is connected. Circuit breakers or
fuses mounted on these busbars deliver power to individual branch
circuits.
hot wire— The ungrounded current-carrying conductor of an electrical
circuit. normally identified by black or red insulation, but
It is it can be
any color except white, gray, or green.

174
insulation —A nonconducting material used to cover wires and
components to remove shock hazards and to prevent short circuits.

junction box —A box containing only the connections or splices of several

wires.

kilowatt— A unit of electrical power measured as 1000 watts, abbreviated

kw.
kilowatt-hour— The unit used in metering electricity. One kilowatt-hour
is 1000 watts used in one hour or the equivalent, such as 500 watts

used for two hours. Abbreviated kwh.

knockout— Round, partially punched-out opening installed by the
manufacturer in panels and junction boxes that allows the opening to
be knocked out with a screwdriver.

low-voltage wiring— A method of wiring where a lower voltage is used

to supply electricity for such purposes as doorbells, thermostats, and
some outdoor lighting.

neutral busbar— The solid metal bar in a service entrance pane! or

subpanel used as a common terminal to connect all of the neutral wires.
The neutral busbar in the service entrance panel is bonded to the pan-
el as well as being directly connected to earth ground. The neutral

busbar in the subpanel is used to connect the neutral wires, but it is

isolated from the panel and is not grounded.
—
neutral wires The grounded conductor that provides the return path to
the source, completing the circuit. Neutral wires must never be
interrupted by circuit breakers or fuses. Neutral wires are identified by
white or gray insulation.

ohm— The unit for measuring electrical resistance.

ohmmeter — The instrument used in measuring electrical resistance.
outlet— A point in a wiring system where current may be taken to supply
electrical equipment.
overcurrent protection device— A fuse or circuit breaker that
automatically interrupts the flow of electricity in the event the current
exceeds a predetermined amount.
overload— A situation where an electrical circuit is attempting to carry
more current than can safely handle.
it

pigtail — A single wire extending from a connection of two or more wires.

receptacle —A connecting device designed to accept plugs.
resistance— The property in an electrical conductor or circuit that restricts

the flow of current. It is measured in units of ohms.

176
service drop— The overhead wires from the utility pole that deliver the
electricity to the building.
service entrance panel— The main power cabinet containing the main
breal<er and circuit breakers distributing electricity throughout the
residence.
service lateral— Underground wires providing electrical service to the
building.
short circuit— A completed, very low-resistance circuit where two bare
hot wires come in contact or a bare hot wire touches a bare ground
wire or grounded component.
source— The point supplying the electrical power. It may be a battery,
generator, or the service entrance panel.
switch— A device used to close or open a circuit, allowing current to ei-

ther flow or not flow, respectively.

terminal— A point used to mal<e electrical connections.

thermostat— A device used to control temperatures to a predetermined
level.
transformer— A device used to transfer electrical energy from one circuit
toanother using electromagnetic induction. The two types commonly
found are the step-up and step-down transformers. The step-up
transformer is used where a higher output voltage than the input volt-
age is desired. A step-down transformer is used for circuits where a
lower output voltage than the input voltage is needed, such as with

doorbells and thermostats.

upstream/downstream— The location of a point in a circuit relative to the

power source. Upstream means the part of the circuit between the point
and the power source. Downstream refers to the part of the circuit from
the point to the remaining part of the circuit going away from the power
source.

volt— The unit used in measuring electrical pressure. Abbreviated V or E.

voltage—The electrical pressure, measured in volts, at which a circuit
operates. Voltage can be determined by the Ohm's Law formula, watts
divided by current = voltage.
voltage drop— An electrical term describing the loss of voltage that occurs
when the wires are not of sufficient size to carry the amount of current
flowing.
voltmeter— A meter used to measure voltage.

watt— The unit used in measuring electrical power. Abbreviated W. The

amount of power in a circuit can be determined by the Ohm's Law
formula: w = current x voltage.

176
Index
 Index
B busbars
baseboards, running cable floating neutral, 136, 138
air conditioners, 79 behind, 62 hot, 39
alternating current, 3, 4 bimetallic thermostat, 92 neutral, 36, 38, 40
American Wire Guage (AWG) boxes bushings, 29
numbers, 22 cost of, 169
ampacity, 23 grounding wire installation for,

amperes, 10 72 cable clamps, 71

appliance plugs, 157 hangers for, 67 cable ripper, 57
replacement of, 158, 159 installation of, 73 cartridge fuses, 48, 49
appliances light, 81 ceiling fans, 80-90
special circuits for, 78, 79 mounting, 65, 66 balancing, 88
voltage requirements for, 77 receptacles installed in, 77 blade and blade holder
atomic structure, electricity and, sizes and number of wires in, assembly for, 85, 86
1-4, 1 69 downrod with motor assembly
automatic garage doors, types of, 67 for, 83

125-134 wires permitted withing, 66 electrical connections for, 88

adding 129-134
lights to, branch circuits, 27, 39, 40-43 installation of, 85, 87
burglar alarm added
to, 134 determining need for, 42 reinforced supports for, 82
installation of, 126 heavy appliance, 78, 79 reversed direction in, 89
opener components of, 125 kitchen, 46 safety and safeguards for, 80
types of, 127 service panel connect for, 42 switch housing with motor
typical parts and assembly of, breakers (see circuit breakers), assembly for, 83
127-129 19 circuit, 16, 17

7 79
circuit breaker, 25-27,43-54 button installation for, 101 locations for, 117
bimetallic strip 48 in, mechanisms of, 98 wiring for, 115
connecting old wiring to, 117 multiple, 96 grounding, 15-20, 42, 45
cost of, 168 multiple, wiring diagram for, ground rod for, 26
fuses vs., 48 99, 100 service entrance panel, 41
indoor enclosure for, 120 wiring diagram for, 96
inside view of, 51 doorways, running cable H
installation of, 123 around, 62 hangers,
nriain, 39, 121, 122 dry locations, 22 box, 67
neutral wires and, 39 dryers, 78 overhead, 68
panel and cabinet 119 for, hertz, 4
panel location and mounting holes, drilling and cutting, 61
for, 121 Edison-base fuse, 47 hot water heaters, timers for,

resetting, 49, 52 electric ranges, 78 110

shutting off electricity with, 19 electrical storms, 17 hot wires
sizing for, 22, electrical symbols, 47 color code for, 33
circuits, 16, 17, 33-54 electricity switches in, 44
branching, 39 atomic structure and, 2
heavy appliance, 78, 79 sources of, 1-4 I

installing switches in, 75 storage of, 10 induction, electromagnetic, 7

light installation in, 79 use of, 15 insulators, 2
power delivery, 33-39 electromagnetic induction, 7 ionization smoke detector, 105
receptacle installation in, 76 electromagnets, 5
switches installed in hot wire electrons, 2, 3 K
of, 44 kitchen, branch circuits in, 46
switches installed in neutral knifeblade fuse, 48
wire of, 44 Faraday, Michael, generator
codes and laws, 21-32 development by, 5
22
do-it-yourself wiring and, 48
ferrule fuse, lamp sockets, 157
wire and cable sizes and, 22 fluorescent light fixtures, 140 replacement of, 160
common terminal, 109, 110 four-way switch, 113 lightning, 3, 17
conductors, 2, 14 free electrons, 2 lights, 79-80
human body as, 15, 18 fuses, 43-54 ceiling fixture for, 81, 82
water as, 19 circuit breaker replacement end of circuit installation of, 79
continuity tester, 57 of, 117 reinforced ceiling supports
current, 3 circuit breakers vs., 48 for, 82
direction of magnetic lines of components of, 47 timers for, 110
force and, 5 shutting off electricity with, 19 load, 15
flow of, 10, 14 types of, 48 low-voltage transformer, 93
generation of, 4 box mounting for, 97
cycles, 7 locations for, 96
generating stations, 11
generator effect, 4-7 M
damaged wiring, 156, 157 generators, 5 magnetic fields, 6
dimmer switches, 107-108 ground conductor, 42 current produced by, 4
exploded view of, 109 ground-fault detection, 27, 31 transmission lines and, 5
direct current, 3 circuit interrupter for, 29 wire loop rotating inside, 8
do-it-yourself wiring, codes and, ground-fault interrupter magnetic lines of force, direction
22 installation, 29, 114-117 of, 5, 6
door chimes, 94-98 exploded view of, 116 main breaker, 39

780
J
material costs, 167-170 middle of circuit installation of, splices, 72
meter, 34-37 76 staples, 70
mounting height for, 66 step-down transformer, 10
N mounting, 65-79 step-up transformer, 10
National Electrical Code, 21 replacement of, 157, 159, 161 stripping wire, 74
National Fire Protection resistance, 14 studding, finding and avoiding,
Association (NFPA), 21 ringer equivalence number, 145, 60
neutral wire 147 subpanel, 137
busbar connection for, 40 floating neutral busbar in, 138
circuit breal<ers and, 39 substations, 11, 12
color code for, 33 S fuse, 47, 49 switches, 41, 44
switches in, 44 safety, 1-21 cost of, 1 69
neutrons, 2 safety plugs, 31 , 32 dimmer (see dimmer switch-
NM sheathed cable, 24 screw terminals, wire es), 107
normally closed switch, 132 connection to, 71 end of circuit installation of, 75
normally open switch, 132 service connect, 33 installation of, 72
service entrance panel, 36, 38 middle of circuit installation of,
branch circuits from, 42 75
Oersted, Hans Christian, connections
circuit to, 44, 48 mounting, 65
generator effect and, 4 cost 168
of, mounting height for, 68
Ohm's Law, 14, 16 grounding, 41 normally open/normally
orbits, 2, 3 indoor installation of, 54 closed, 132
outlets, 65-90 outdoor installation of, 49, 52, open/closed, 17
estimating required wire and 53 replacement of, 159, 161
cable length for, 68 replacement of, 119 timers for, 110
mounting boxes for, 65 shop circuit installation to, 136 symbols, electrical, 47
mounting switches and upgrading, 118
receptacles for, 65-79 shock hazards, 15-20
overcurrent protection, 22 first aid following, 20 telephone jacks, 143-154
overhead fixture, hanger for, 68 shop circuit installation, 135-142 baseboard mounting for, 150
overhead service, 34 fluorescent light fixtures for, circuit connections for, 145
minimum clearance for, 138 140 color coding in, 152

overloads, 161-163 running wires for, 139 kits for installing, 154

service entrance panel prewired building installation

connection for, 136 for, 150
photoelectric smoke detector, subpanel for, 136, 137 ringer equivalence number
105, 106 underground vs. overhead, for, 145

pigtail splice, 72, 74 135 running wires for, 146

pliers, 56 short circuit, 155 telephone service and
power cords, 157 damaged wiring causing, 156 voltages in, 143-145
power delivery circuit, 33 locating source for, 156 terminal locations in boxes
overhead, 34 overloaded circuit causing, for, 147, 148

power distribution, 7-15 156 through wall wiring for, 151

protons, 2 smoke detectors, 105-107 types of, 153
back view of, 1 08 wire mounting for, 149
R batteries for, 106 wiring wrapped around house
receptacles locations for, 106 to point of entry to, 151
box installation of, 77 types of, 105 thermostat installation, 91-95
cost of, 169 wiring diagram for, 107 back view of, 94
end of circuit installation of, 76 solenoids, 5 colorcoded wires for, 92
installation of, 73 source, 15 three-way switches, 108-110

787
 common terminal for, 109, minimum cable depth for, 29 of, 71
110 sheathed cable for, 24 copper, current-carrying
four-way switch and, 113 telephone, 144, 145 capacities of, 23
wiring to light, 111 upgrading, 105-124 cost of, 169
wiring connections for,109 cross section of, 23
wiring from light to, 112 doorway installation of, 62
timers, 101, 110 volt-ohmmeter, 57, 58 estimating required length of,

controls 114
for, voltage tester, 58 68
wiring diagram of, 115 volts, 14 hot vs. neutral, 33
wiring for, 113 installation of, 69, 70, 71
tools, 55-64 W protection for, 25, 28
cost of, 168 watts, 14 sheathed, 24
insulated handles for, 55 wet locations, 22 sizes for, 22-25
transformers, 13, 93, 94, 99 wire nuts, 30 stapling, 70
step-up/step-down, 10 wires and cables work, 14
transmission lines, 10 attaching, 30
magnetic field of, 5 baseboard installation of, 62
troubleshooting, 155-166 building entrance for, 139 yard lights, 98-103
bushings to protect, 29 timer for, 101
U cable clamp for, 71 transformer for, 99, 100
UF sheathed cable, 24 color coding for,25 types of, 100, 102
underground service, 26 connection to screw terminal wiring connections for, 103

182
 HOME
ELECTRICAL

Common Projects and Repaii^

Robert Wood

Easy and safe procedures for more than a dozen

everyday electrical jobs around the house!

With Home Electrical Wiring Made Easy: Common Projects and Repairs,
you can be your own electrical contractor! Robert Wood has written a clear
and concise guide to home wiring for the inexperienced homeowner. If you've
never done much more than change a light bulb, this book is for you. No
prior knowledge of electronics or electricity is needed to successfully com-
plete the projects presented here.
Home Electrical Wiring is devoted to projects that will bring order and
efficiency to your home. Following Wood's step-by-step instructions, you will
become a master at home electrical installation, repair, and replacement
jobs, including:

• outlets • ceiling lights and fans

• thermostats • door bells
• garage door openers • timers and dimmer switches
• telephone jacks • outdoor lighting
Also explained and illustrated are invaluable troubleshooting techniques
and fault-diagnosis procedures. The well-drawn illustrations and work-in-
progress photographs provide an excellent reference. Technical terms are
kept to a minimum, but those that are used are listed in the glossary at the
end of the book.
So, take care of those needling little jobs around your house. You can
do it yourself safely, inexpensively, and quickly with the help of Home Elec-
trical Made Easy.
Wiring
Robert Wood is also the author of TAB'S Understanding Magnetism (No.
2772) and Troubleshooting and Repairing Small Home Appliances (No. 291 2).

T7VB ISBN 0-fl3Db-D37E-7

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