TUNING

MANUAL

1999 Suspension Forks

 shocks. If the information here seems at first complicated, don’t get
• TABLE OF CONTENTS frustrated. The MRD techs who wrote this manual have many years
experience with suspension and only through much time and effort
have learned the intricacies of suspension technology. With time, and
• Chapter 1 the information provided in this manual, you too can gain the neces-
sary insight to make your suspension work optimally.
Introduction ..............................................................2
Some thoughts on 1999 forks before we begin. For 1999, the travel of
• Chapter 2 most of the forks has been increased. Most 1999 SX forks now have
80 millimeters of travel versus 70 millimeters the year before (the SX
Before You Begin .....................................................2 Carbon is the exception, putting out 70 millimeters), the Spyder R has
80 millimeters of travel and the X-Vert line of forks now have 100
millimeters of travel or up. This, of course, means that you now have
• Chapter 3 more tunable travel, but, in addition, the standard setup of 1999 forks
is designed to use this increased travel to create a plusher ride. We’re
Real Technical Stuff Explained Simply ...................3 sure you noticed this on your first ride on the fork.

• Chapter 4 Before you begin your tuning, we recommend taking a few rides and
getting accustomed to the longer travel and softer feel of the
Pre Set Up Tips.........................................................5 suspension. You may even find that the stock set up is perfect for you,
even though the spring charts in this tuning manual recommend
something different entirely.
• Chapter 5
Also, before you begin tuning your fork, start a log book that tracks
Suspension Set Up 101 ............................................5 the changes your have made to the fork and the conditions (i.e., wet,
dry, big bump hits, small repetitive bumps) you rode the fork in.
• Chapter 6 Make sure you put a rating on how the fork felt that day somewhere
on that same page. That way you can also return to this setting should
you encounter similar conditions again. Be aware that the outside
Tuning 1999 TPC Manitous ....................................7 temperature should also be considered when tuning the fork as well.
A hot day, for example, will have an effect on the stiffness of the fork
• Chapter 7 (because MCU’s and oil are sensitive to temperature), so make sure
you write down the weather in your log book as well. It might seem
Troubleshooting Tips ..............................................11 like a lot of work when you’re writing it out, but a well-kept log book
will pay dividends in suspension performance.
• Chapter 8
Maintaining Suspension Bliss .................................12

• Chapter 9 • Chapter 2: BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Disassembly/Reassembly ........................................13 1. TPC EXPLAINED
TPC stands for Twin Piston Chamber, the next generation in damping
technology. A TPC fork consists of four main components: the com-
pression assembly, the rebound assembly, the inner leg and the fork fluid.
• Chapter 1: INTRODUCTION
TPC is an open system like an open-bath fork, but better. TPC is
Thank you for choosing a Manitou suspension fork. The 1999 contained like a cartridge, but better. What does all this mean? TPC
Manitou suspension forks have been designed to give you more provides a damping system that’s more reliable than a typical
performance than ever. To take best advantage of your fork though, cartridge (no more blown cartridges) as well as being easier to care
you’ll need to tune it to your own particular riding style and weight. for than an open bath (no more frequent and messy oil changes). It’s
By reading this MRD Tuning Manual, you will gain the knowledge also lighter than an oil bath design because oil and springs are only
necessary to do this and make your fork work perfectly. needed in one leg each.
2. HOW TPC WORKS
A note on MRD (Manitou Racing Development). Manitou Racing
Development is the race division of Manitou that is responsible for The theory behind TPC is oil displacement. For those unfamiliar with
developing products for use by top pro racers like John Tomac, Shaun physics, simply visualize a bucket filled close to the top with water.
Palmer and Hubert Pallhuber. The information included in this man- What happens if a brick is lowered slowly into the bucket?
ual is a result of many years spent working with these racers and is The displacement of the brick—the space that it takes up—replaces a
written by MRD tech mechanics who’s job it is to ensure that similar amount of water; the water has been displaced and the water
Manitou riders are riding perfectly-tuned suspension forks and level in the bucket rises.

2 - 1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL

 Compression
riding, but since keeping track of hours in the saddle can be difficult,
Piston make sure you work it into your maintenance schedule.

Compression
Adjustment
• Chapter 3: REAL TECHNICAL STUFF
EXPLAINED SIMPLY
Outer Leg
This section is for those who want to know the basics behind
Inner Leg suspension before they get started trying to tune their suspension fork.
Damping, preload or other terms, are defined in this section.
Oil
A. THE PURPOSE OF SPRINGS AND PRELOAD
Rebound A suspension fork or rear shock unit uses springs primarily to support
Leak-Proof Piston the weight of the rider and bicycle, as well as isolate both from
Seal impacts encountered while riding over rocks, holes, jumps and other
obstacles. Generally speaking, you want to use a spring with a rate
Rebound
Adjustment just stiff enough to prevent bottoming on all but the biggest bumps.

Spring Rate Defined

TPC works on this same principle. As the lower or rebound shaft
enters the inner leg (as the fork is compressed), it pushes fork fluid up Spring rate is a measure of the spring’s stiffness or soft-
ness and is rated by the amount of force (weight)
through the compression valve resulting in displacement much like
necessary to compress the spring a given distance; it’s
the brick being introduced in the bucket. The compression piston
most often expressed in pounds per inch or kilograms
controls or dampens this oil flow, allowing the fork to control the per centimeter. A coil spring’s rate is determined by its
reaction to bumps. As the shaft returns to its original position, the wire diameter, the number of coils and the coil diame-
fluid level does likewise through the rebound piston that offers return ter. An MCU’s spring rate is determined by its SP2
surface control. A benefit of this design is that the fork has very little durometer hardness and density of the mixture.
compression damping over small bumps, permitting it to be very
plush. Conversely, on large bumps when more oil is pushed through the
compression piston at a higher speed, there is more compression damping, Manitou forks from 1997 onward use a combination of coil spring and
exactly what you want on on big hits. MCUs. Why? A coil spring, by nature, wants to release all of its energy
from compression, thus providing a very lively, active ride on small-to
3. TPC SPORT EXPLAINED medium-size continuous hits. An MCU also does a good job on small
TPC Sport is very similar to TPC. The four main components are stuff, however, an MCU’s spring rate ramps up very quickly the more
compression assembly, rebound assembly, the inner leg and the fork it’s compressed. Around the middle of fork’s stroke, an all MCU fork
fluid, and the theory behind the function of TPC Sport is oil displace- begins to feel dead and adds a harsh packing feel to the fork.
ment (again like TPC). As the lower (rebound) assembly is This is where the coil spring comes in. Manitou’s coil springs feature
compressed, fork fluid flow through the compression valve to provide a constant or straight rate. This means that if it’s rated a 50 pounds per
compression damping; as the fork extends, the oil flows back through inch, 50 pounds of force is required to compress it one inch; 100
the rebound piston, providing rebound damping. The difference pounds are required to compress it two inches (50 pounds x 2
between the two designs is that TPC Sport uses simple orifices to inches=100 pounds) and so on (see Figure 2). On the other hand, an
monitor oil flow through the piston where TPC has shim stacks to MCU which requires 50 pounds of force to compress one inch is
control oil flow. likely to jump to 150 pounds (or more) needed for two inches. This is
known as a progressive spring rate.
4. ABOUT MICROLUBE
All 1999 forks come standard with the Microlube lubrication system. As such, there are several advantages to combining a coil spring with
Located at the back of the fork, at the top of the slider tubes, is a small MCUs. For example, it provides a truly progressive spring rate, with
fitting which is the heart of the Microlube system. All you need now both suppleness on small bumps and protection from bottoming out
is a Microlube grease gun (85-3812) and Manitou’s Prep M (85-3810) due to big hits; it allows you to take advantage of the full travel
suspension fork lube. Once you have the two aforementioned pieces, designed into the fork; the combination of an MCU and coil spring is
the next step is to brush off any dirt from the grease ports then just put lighter than a single progressively-wound coil spring would be; and it
the tip of the grease gun (85-3812) into the small eye and squeeze a provides added options when it comes to dialing in the springs.
few times. After you’ve given the fork a few squirts, push down on the
fork and see if you feel any stiction (notchiness as the fork compress-
es). If you do, continue injecting grease and checking for stiction until it
is eliminated. Don’t overdo it either. Some people think that if a little is
good, a lot will be great. That’s not true with Microlube. The proper amount
of grease is when stiction is eliminated-no more, no less.

Something to remember with Microlube is that it does not mean the

end to servicing your fork. Periodically, depending on the conditions
you ride in, you’ll have to disassemble the fork, clean it thoroughly
and then reassemble it. We recommend doing this every 100 hours of

1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL - 3

 shim stack, it encounters more resistance if it tries to flow faster, due
0" to added speed and force. Damping adjusters allow you to alter how
100 Lbs. easily the fluid flows, thus helping to control the speed at which the
200 Lbs. 1"
300 Lbs. fork both compresses and returns. If damping systems didn’t exist, a
2"
fork would behave like a pogo stick, resulting in very poor control of
FREE 3" your bike.
LENGTH
4" • The Benefits of Compression Damping
5" Compression damping usually permits the use of lighter-rate fork
6"
springs than would be possible in non-damped forks. That’s because
compression damping affects the down stroke or compression phase
100 LBS./IN. RATE 50 LBS./IN. RATE 50 LBS./IN. RATE +2"
of suspension movement, sharing the workload with the spring(s) as
speed and force increase (thus, the term “speed-sensitive”). The use
+1"
of compression damping results in a wider range of optimum perfor-
0" mance, as it’s possible to maintain a plush, supple ride over small hits
200 Lbs. 1" and still resist hard bottoming on hard landings. (thanks to the speed
200 Lbs.
sensitivity of the compression damping).
2"

3"
• The Benefits of Rebound Damping
200 Lbs.
As you hopefully learned in school, for every action, there is an equal
4"
and opposite reaction. Therefore, when a spring (coil, elastomer,
5" MCU) is compressed, it wants to return to its decompressed state; in
6" other words, it wants to rebound [see Figure 2]. If allowed to rebound
completely freely, the resulting suspension action would result in a very
pogo-stick like ride, with the fork returning very quickly and erratically.
Figure 1 Rebound damping slows and controls the extension stroke to keep the
front wheel on the ground at all times.
Fork spring compression is dependent on the weight placed
on them, the length and the progressivity on the spring. Spring Note: MCUs and other elastomer springs, even those made of
high-resiliency material, do absorb some energy when compressed
and will not have the same amount of rebound energy as a coil spring.
Preload is a term that is often misunderstood. Defined, preload is
the amount you initially compress a spring in order to control the
point at which it begins to move. It is useful because it provides a
quick and easy way to alter ride height without having to change
the springs.
On a coil spring, preload increases the amount of force required to begin
to move the spring. It does not alter the overall spring rate. In other Absorption
words, it still takes the same amount of force to continue to
compress the spring, regardless of how much it’s been preloaded.
Preload does affect overall spring rate in an MCU. This is because
MCUs work by being compressed and distorted. More preload on an Shock
MCU compresses and distorts it, which results in it being farther Dissipation
along its progressive curve due to the inherently progressive nature of
the material. Figure 2
But preload is not the end-all to spring woes. If it becomes necessary Shock causes the spring to compress and absorb. Rebound
to increase preload to near maximum adjustment, the fork has springs occurs as the spring returns, dissipating the energy of the bump.
with too light a rate and they need to be changed. Preloading MCU or
coil springs too much not only restricts travel, but tends to make the
ride of the fork harsh and makes rebound control more difficult.
C. ABOUT HYDRAULIC DAMPING INTERNALS
1999 Manitou forks feature either a TPC (Twin Piston Chamber) on
B. DAMPING: WHAT IT IS & WHY IT’S IMPORTANT TPC Sport Damping System, that can easily be serviced and tuned by
a competent owner or qualified technician.
Damping is the act of absorbing shock by changing the energy of
motion into heat and then dissipating it by way of an oil-based fluid. Damping can be dialed in with TPC by either changing fluid viscosity
The purpose of a damping system (such as that contained in a or the amount and sizes of the shims. The damping of TPC Sport,
suspension fork) is to limit both the rate at which a spring is com- because it uses orifices in the piston to provide damping rather than
pressed (compression damping) when it hits a bump and to slow the shim stacks, can only be altered by changing the weight of the fork
resulting rate of return (rebound damping). oil. The stock fork fluid is Maxima 5-weight; other weight fluids are
Piston and shim stack damping, like that used in TPC Damping recommended options depending on your weight and riding style. We
systems, is speed-sensitive. That means the resistance to movement recommend Maxima fork fluid for optimum performance and service
increases with speed and force. When talking about speed in reference life. The accompanying chart (see Figure 3) shows how different fluid
to damping, it is the speed of fork movement being referred to, not the weights affect damping, though the graphs have been exaggerated to
speed of the bike. As fluid tries to flow through a given piston and make the differences more visual.

4 - 1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL

 Such things as minute changes in rider position and increased
OIL VISCOSITY GRAPH
fatigue may lead to incorrect judgments about suspension set
tings and required adjustments.
• Always keep a record of adjustment changes made and the
performance differences that resulted. When proper settings are
achieved for a particular course, terrain or conditions, they
should be written down for future reference.
7.5 wt 5 wt 2.5 wt
Figure 3 • Chapter 5: SUSPENSION SET UP 101
The heavier the fork oil weight, the more damping it will
provide. 5-weight Maxima oil is stock in Manitou TPC and With the preceding points in mind, let’s begin with suspension set up.
TPC Sport forks, but this oil viscosity can be increased or First of all, remember that the Manitou’s damping and spring charac-
decreased in weight for differing riding conditions and styles. teristics have been determined by a team of very experienced test
riders, which should make the standard settings work well for most
riders under most conditions (meaning a 150- to 170-pound Sport-to
The TPC shim stack (see fig. 4) meters fluid flow through the Expert-level rider with a bike using geometry typical of current
damping piston within the cartridge. Changing the number of shims, mountain bikes and riding primarily dry terrain).
their thickness and their diameter will alter damping character as will
changing the oil weight. You can’t change the diameter of the shim If you’re outside of these parameters, your suspension may need
closest to the piston though, as this is fixed and based on the piston’s dialing in to get in the ballpark. Those who are heavier or more expe-
ports and its diameter. Changing a large-diameter shim has more rienced than average may need stiffer springs; likewise, those who are
effect than changing a small-diameter shim. lighter or less experienced may need softer springs. Be aware that
changing spring rates often requires a change in rebound damping
adjustment to compensate (refer to “Real Technical Stuff Explained
• Chapter 4: PRE-SET UP TIPS Simply”). Also, don’t be fooled: sometimes you may think the fork is
bottoming when it’s not; the sensation may be due to an overly stiff
spring rate or excessive damping. Conversely, a harsh sensation may
be due to a soft spring rate which is causing the suspension to ride too
far into the firm portion of its travel. Here’s how to dial-in your
Service suspension as quickly, yet correctly, as possible.
Servicing your fork is the first step that should be
taken before any tuning is performed. The owner’s
manual you received with the fork provides detailed 1. SET SAG BEFORE ALL ELSE
descriptions on how to accomplish this. Servicing your
fork will also provide some familiarity with your fork In order to ensure optimum performance of your Manitou fork, the
parts, so that when you get to the point of tuning the preload on the springs must be correctly adjusted to obtain the proper
fork, you will feel comfortable taking it apart and ride height or “sag.” Suspension sag helps the tires to remain in contact
making changes. Luckily, new for 1999 features like with the ground under dynamic loading as braking and cornering.
Microlube (see “About Microlube”on page 4) make Have a friend help you measure sag. One person can adjust the
servicing your fork easier than ever. If you did not
preload, but it takes two to measure sag. The only equipment needed
receive an owner’s manual, contact your bicycle
is a tape measure, a pencil and a piece of paper. Here’s how to do it:
dealer or call Manitou at (805)257-4411, or download
from www.answerproducts.com 1. Measure the distance from the front axle’s centerline to the
bottom of the upper crown when no one’s sitting on the bike.
(Remember the exact locations of the two points because
• If the suspension fork is new, break it in with at least one hour of you’ll need to use them later.)
riding before making any evaluations or changes. 2. Write this distance down.
• The three major factors which must be considered in suspension 3. Have the rider sit on the bike. It’s important to be in the nor
tuning are rider weight, rider ability and course conditions. mal riding position with feet on the pedals; this is where
Additional influences include the rider’s style and the rider’s having a helper comes in handy.
positioning on the bicycle.
4. Measure the distance between the same two points as in
• Make suspension changes in small increments. A little bit goes a step one.
long way, and it’s very easy to over-adjust a setting.
5. Subtract the second measurement from the first. The result
• On full-suspension bicycles, the front and rear suspension must is the static sag or ride height.
be balanced in order to provide the best-performing total pack
age. Same brand front and rear components is not the key, nor Correctly adjusted springs should yield 20 percent of the fork’s travel
necessary, for suspension harmony. Proper set up and suspension in sag, approximately 8-10mm for a suspension fork that offers 65-
balance is the key to superior performance, so keep in mind that 70mm of travel, 10-12mm for a 75-80mm-travel fork, 18-25mm for a
a front suspension change often requires a similar change to the 100-115mm-travel fork and 30-35mm for a 160mm-travel fork. If
rear and vice-versa. your fork doesn’t have the correct sag, use the preload adjuster (refer
to page 7 “Tuning ‘99 Manitous). You should be able to use between
• When evaluating suspension performance, the rider must ride as 0 and eight clicks (not turns) on the preload adjusters to achieve the
consistently as possible and recognize the effects of his input. correct sag. If more than eight clicks are required (indicating more

1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL - 5

preload is needed for correct sag), stiffer springs are needed (refer to If you have a full-suspension bicycle you should also follow the same
page 7 “Tuning ‘99 Manitous). If it requires less than the 0 click setting procedures when adjusting the shock (see below “A Balanced Bike is
(indicating less preload is needed), softer springs are needed. Best”). Remember: Make only one change at a time so you can keep
track of what does what and keep a written record you so can return
to your original settings if something goes wrong. Sometimes, an
adjustment will produce an undesirable effect so you’ll want to
return to the previous setting.
PRING
S
PRESSIO
- + OM
Preload Compression

N
P + -
R E LO A
D

Adjustment Damping DA
M PIN
G

Adjustment
DECREASE
INCREASE

DECREASE
COMPRESSION INCREASE
Should a spring change be necessary, you’ll be glad that Manitou DAMPING COMPRESSION
forks allow doing so by simply changing one or more of the MCUs . DAMPING

Changing MCUs will make a noticeable difference in effective spring

rate and will be much less expensive than changing the coil spring.
Generally speaking, cross-country riders prefer rebound damping on the
slow side. That’s because at their slower actual speeds, the time between
2. GET FAMILIAR WITH YOUR TPC FORK bumps tends to be longer. Also, with slower rebound settings the fork is
After you set the sag, before you started making further changes you not as active while climbing.
must establish a baseline or point of reference to test your bike on.
Downhill riders, on the other hand, because of the high speeds result
Lay out a test course so you can determine how the suspension
in a shorter time between bumps, and, as a result, typically prefer
works in an unaltered state first and then how it compares in practi-
quicker rebound. Remember that a properly adjusted suspension
cally identical conditions after adjustments are made. The course
system may bottom very slightly at least once on a lap, or run, under
shouldn’t be too long (15 to 20 minutes per lap is fine). It should be
hard riding. If it doesn’t bottoming occasionally, you won’t be taking
rough and similar to the most demanding conditions you ride.
advantage of all the suspension travel.
After coming up with a satisfactory test-course layout, ride a lap.
Concentrate on how the suspension performs, your body positioning 3. REAR SUSPENSION: A BALANCED BIKE IS BEST
in various sections on the course and how the bicycle handles. When If you have a full-suspension bicycle, you must make sure that both
you’re done with the lap, try the following exercise to help get ends work in unison. This is what is termed having balanced
familiar with what suspension adjustments produce what results. suspension. It is not necessary to have the same brand front and rear
With your bike and fork in its normal upright position, turn the fork’s components to achieve a balanced, high-performance package. The
rebound damping adjuster knob (TPC Forks only TPC Sport is non- important factors are quality, tuneable components that the rider takes
adjustable), counterclockwise, all the way into position number one the time to set up properly.
(slowest return); write down where it was so you don’t forget. After the fork’s sag is set correctly, perform the following quick check
to see if the rear suspension is in reasonably good balance:
Rebound Damping Adjustment
1. Hold the bike upright on level ground.
2. While standing next to the bike, pull on the front brake lever
so the bike doesn’t go anywhere.
ROTATE 3. Place your foot on the pedal closest to you and lower the
pedal to bottom dead center.
4. Now push down on the pedal with your foot and note the
attitude of the bike. Do it a few times. If the suspension is
INCREASE
REBOUND DAMPING well balanced, the bike will maintain a level attitude as it’s
pushed down and rebounds. (i.e., the front and rear suspension
will compress equally)
DECREASE 5. Next, sit on the bike in your normal riding position. If either
REBOUND DAMPING the front or rear end drops beyond proper “ride sag”, you’ll
need to adjust the preload and/or change springs. If you’ve
Now ride the test course again, attempting to duplicate the effort and adjusted the fork’s preload, chances are you’ll need to adjust
body positioning used on the first lap, and note how the fork acts. the shock preload or even change its spring rate in order to
Concentrate on how the bike handles and what it does where. After achieve better balance. Consult the shock owner’s manual if
finishing the lap, turn the rebound knob clockwise to the fully open you’re not sure how to do this.
position (quickest return) and ride another lap, taking the same
mental notes. After these three laps, you should have a good idea of
how the bike handles at the extreme ends of fork rebound damping
adjustment and how that compares to the original setting. The
differences should be rather pronounced.

6 - 1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL

 when the compression piston hits the fluid upon reinstallation. (See
• Chapter 6: TUNING 1999 “Checking Oil Level” below. At that point, the top of the assembly
TPC MANITOUS should still be sticking out of the leg approximately two inches. If the oil
level is less than one inch or greater than three inches, follow the steps
Now that you have a basic understanding of the theory behind TPC, in the section “Checking Oil Level” below.
See “Before you Begin” to review let’s look at another benefit: The
compression and rebound damping can be tuned completely indepen-
dent of each other. This can be done in one of two ways depending
upon the particular model Manitou. Adjustments can be made either
internally or externally and can be done without having to remove the
fork fluid. Most riders will find the stock setting quite satisfactory. If
a different setting is desired, refer to page 8 “TPC Valve Stack
Tuning”. This section identifies what tuning and adjustments can be
made by diving into the internals of the fork. Experiment and exhaust
external tuning adjustments before you attempt procedures that
require disassembly or replacement of fork components. Once a Internal damping adjustment using set screw. Turn clock-
wise to increase compression damping.
problem is identified, it’s easier to determine a solution and the Turn counterclockwise to decrease compression
steps necessary to achieve it. damping. Standard setting is 4.5 turns out from fully closed.

1. SWITCHING SPRINGS 3. EXTERNAL COMPRESSION AND REBOUND

DAMPING ADJUSTMENTS
If you can’t attain proper sag using the procedures explained in the A simple turn is all that’s required to make external damping adjustments,
previous section (Set Sag Before All Else), change either the MCU or due to the knobs at the top (compression) and bottom (rebound) of the
the coil spring. left fork leg. The stock settings for 1999 SX models are 12 clicks out
1. Remove the preload adjuster by unscrewing the cap from the from fully closed on compression and six clicks out from fully closed
top of the crown/leg assembly. A pair of channel locks may on rebound. 1999 X-Vert forks are set to 12 clicks out from fully
be necessary; if so, use only light pressure. Remember: The closed on both compression and rebound. Once again, the stock
springs are housed only in one leg so remove the cap from settings should be quite satisfactory for most riders, but thanks to the
the right side only (Rider right). external knobs, experimenting or fine-tuning is quick and easy.
2. With the adjuster assembly removed, the spring stack is 4. REMOVING THE REBOUND DAMPING ASSEMBLY
now accessible.
To remove the rebound damping assembly, the fork must
3. Select the appropriate MCU or coil spring (refer to the be disassembled first (please refer to “Manitou Disassembly
following spring charts for proper rate). Procedure” Chapter 8, page 12). Once the slider has been pulled off
4. Put the new MCU or coil spring in the old one’s place in the the inner leg, turn the inner leg assembly upside-down. With the fork
spring stack, apply a liberal amount of light grease to the upside-down, reinstall the damper dropout nut then stroke the shaft 3-4
spring stack (particularly the plastic spring connectors and times. Notice that the fork fluid is slowly being pushed to the compres-
the coil spring that may come in contact with the inside of sion side of the leg.
the leg). Reinstall the spring stack inside the leg.
The rebound damping assembly can now be removed with a 15/16-
5. Reinstall the preload adjuster assembly, taking care not to inch wrench. Be careful when removing the assembly as a small
cross-thread the cap. It should thread in by hand and does amount of fork fluid may remain on top of the piston. In addition,
not need to be tightened with a wrench. Making it finger- ensure that no contaminants enter the now-exposed fluid.
snug is quite acceptable.
To reinstall the assembly, torque the end cap as specified in the
6. With the new spring rate, it’ll be necessary to ensure that the
owner’s manual. Turn the fork right side up and stroke the rebound
sag is set correctly, so run through that procedure again,
shaft a few times to transfer fluid back down to the bottom of the leg.
making any adjustments required.
Remove the damper dropout nut and follow the steps outlined in
Chapter 8, page 13“Manitou Reassembly Procedure.”
2. INTERNAL COMPRESSION 5. CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL
DAMPING ADJUSTMENTS (1999 SX ONLY) Having the correct oil level is critical to keep a TPC fork working its
Internal damping adjustments are done via a small set screw housed best (although slightly varying oil height will not alter the perfor-
in the piston seat The stock setting for the compression damping mance of the fork). To measure the oil level, all that’s required is a
adjuster (the upper piston in TPC) is four and a half turns out from tape measure. Begin by unscrewing the compression valve assembly
fully closed. If you ever get “lost” or forget the settings, always return at the top of the left fork leg. Leave the spring stack (riders: right side)
to the stock settings. In addition, make only one change at a time. installed as it should not be removed to check oil height. Once the
Note: See below for instructions on how to remove both the com- assembly is completely unthreaded from the inner leg, pull the assem-
pression and rebound assembly. bly about halfway out. You should be able to feel when the piston is
no longer in the fork fluid. When this happens, slowly lower the
Once you make the desired adjustments, reinstall the assembly. Now
assembly to where it again contracts the oil, which can be felt by
is also a good time to check the oil level. You should be able to feel
increased resistance, and measure the distance from the top of the
crown to the top O-ring (located on the knob above the cap threads).
This distance should be approximately two inches, but can range from

1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL - 7

one to three inches. Note: Running the oil level greater than three 1. Make only small changes—a little bit goes a long way.
inches risks fork damage or possible personal injury.
2. Always keep notes on what you’ve tried and how it worked.
6. CHANGING FORK FLUID 3. Do not change the diameter of the shim closest to the piston.
Though all suspension forks demand fluid changes in order to maintain This shim must always cover the entire port (22mm for
damping and prevent internal damage, a TPC or TPC Sport equipped compression and 18 or 16mm for rebound, depending on
fork needs fluid changes far less frequently because the TPC design whether you have an X-Vert 30mm dia. inner leg or SX fork
doesn’t break fluid down quickly due to its greater oil volume. We 28.6mm dia. inner leg).
recommend changing fluid just once a year for heavy users and only
4. Changing the larger diameter shim(s) will have greater effect
every other year for sport and recreational users.
on damping characteristics.
The first step in changing the fluid is to remove the compression
damping assembly. Next, pour the old fluid out of the top of the leg 5. More shims and/or thicker shims will increase damping.
into a clear container in order to inspect the fluid. Dark fluid is nor- (See figure 4).
mal and not an indication of a problem. If metal flakes or other cont- 6. Fewer shims and/or thinner shims will decrease damping.
aminants are present, disassemble the entire left leg following the pro- (See figure 4).
cedures outlined in Chapter 8, page 12 “Manitou Disassembly
Procedure” and page 7 “Removing the Rebound Damping
Assembly.” Flush all parts off with a suitable cleaning solution,
8. TUNING 1999 TPC SPORT
wipe clean and then reassemble if no damaged parts are found. Some
discoloration (grey, cloudy) is normal in old fork fluid. Fill the leg with TPC (or Twin Piston Damping) is one of the hottest developments in
the recommended amount of fluid (Manitous are filled at the factory suspension technology and it’s more-moderately priced brother, TPC
with 5-weight Maxima) and set the oil level according to the previous Sport, is equally revolutionary. Like TPC, TPC Sport uses separate
section “Checking Oil Level.” Reinstall the compression damping pistons for rebound and compression, no leak seals and large oil vol-
assembly. ume to eliminate heat-related problems. It is not adjustable
externally, but that doesn’t mean you can not vary the feel of the fork;
7. TPC VALVE STACK TUNING changing the fork oil weight in your TPC Sport-equipped fork will
The valve shim stacks in a TPC fork are the ultimate tuning devices. significantly change the damping character of the fork. See
However, determining the correct combination of shims is time con- “Changing Fork Fluid” for instructions on how to do this.
suming and a tedious process that would take weeks to explain and
longer to learn. The standard valving in your TPC fork has been test- The standard fork oil in your fork is Maxima 5-weight. This should
ed and developed during many months of racing on the World Cup work fine for most riders, but if you find the settings are not to your
circuit, but should you wish to customize your fork’s valve shim liking, increasing or decreasing the oil weight will increase or
stacks, keep the following hints in mind: decrease the TPC Sport damping in your fork. See page 9, “1999
TPC AND TPC SPORT FORK TUNING” for recommended oil
weights. Remember though, changing the oil weight will affect
both compression and rebound damping equally; so while you may
be slowing rebound down by say, adding heavier fork oil, you also
may be adding compression damping to the point of the fork feel-
ing harsh. The best thing to do is to experiment with different oil
weights until you find that perfect setting for you. Since changing
Damping Technology the fluid is so simple (all you must do is remove the compression
rod-the cap on the left leg when you view the fork from above-
drain the oil and refill), it’s not too difficult finding that perfect
Low Speed High Speed feel. Note: Changing the size of the orifice holes of the TPC Sport
Flow Flow
rebound or compression pistons will affect the damping of the fork
components, but it is not recommended. Not only do you risk dam-
aging the fork permanently, but you will also void the warranty on
the fork and most likely compromise the performance as well.

Soft Low Stiffer Low

Speed Speed

Figure 4 (Shim Stack Tuning)

8 - 1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL

 1999 TPC AND TPC SPORT FORK TUNING
(Other Model Years Require Different Tuning Specifications)
The following tuning charts will help determine the optimum springs and settings for you to start with, depending on which model fork you have.

COMPRESSION REBOUND
MODEL RIDER WEIGHT SPRING STACK DAMPING* DAMPING*
TPC Damped Forks
SX 100-125 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 18 clicks 10 clicks
125-130 lbs. std. coil (3) 2Ó red 15 clicks 8 clicks
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 12 clicks 6 clicks
170-190 lbs. std. coil (1) 2Ó red (2) 2Ó yel 8 clicks 6 clicks
190+lbs. std. coil (3) 2Ó yel 5 clicks 4 clicks

SX-R 100-125 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 18 clicks 10 clicks
125-150 lbs. std. coil (3) 2Ó red 15 clicks 8 clicks
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 12 clicks 6 clicks
170-190 lbs. std. coil (1) 2Ó red (2) 2Ó yel 8 clicks 6 clicks
190+lbs. std. coil (3) 2Ó yel 5 clicks 4 clicks

SX-Ti 100-125 lbs. 120 Ti coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 18 clicks 10 clicks
125-130 lbs. 140 Ti coil (2) 2Ó red 15 clicks 8 clicks
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. 140 Ti coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 12 clicks 6 clicks
170-190 lbs. 140 Ti coil (2) 2Ó yel 8 clicks 6 clicks
190+lbs. Ti coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 5 clicks 4 clicks

SX Carbon 100-125 lbs. 120 lb. Ti coil (1) red or blue 18 clicks 10 clicks
125-150 lbs. 140 lb. Ti coil (1) blue 15 clicks 8 clicks
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. 140 Ti coil (1) red 12 clicks 6 clicks
170-190 lbs. 140 Ti coil (1) yel 8 clicks 6 clicks
190+lbs. 160 Ti coil (1) yel 5 clicks 4 clicks

X-Vert 100-125 lbs. 120 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 18 clicks 10 clicks
125-150 lbs. 140 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 15 clicks 8 clicks
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. 140 lb. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red 12 clicks 6 clicks
170-190 lbs. 1 140 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 1Ó yel 8 clicks 6 clicks
190+ lbs. 160 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 1Ó yel 5 clicks 4 clicks

X-Vert R 100-125 lbs. 120 lb. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 18 clicks 10 clicks
125-150 lbs. 140 lb. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 15 clicks 8 clicks
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. 140 lb. coil (3) 2Ó red 12 clicks 6 clicks
170-190 lbs. 140 lb. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 8 clicks 6 clicks
190+ lbs. 160 lb. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 5 clicks 4 clicks

X-Vert Carbon 100-125 lbs. (1) 140 lb. Ti coil (1) 120 Ti coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 20 clicks 20 clicks
125-150 lbs. (2) 140 lb. Ti coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 18 clicks 18 clicks
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. (2) 140 lb. Ti coil (2) 2Ó red 16 clicks 16 clicks
170-190 lbs. (2) 140 lb. Ti coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 14 clicks 14 clicks
190+ lbs. (1) 140 lb. Ti coil (1) 160 Ti coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 12 clicks 12 clicks
*Settings are from full close
Note: Use only 1998 and 1999 MCUÕs

1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL - 9

 MODEL RIDER WEIGHT SPRING STACK OIL WEIGHT
TPC Damped Forks
Spyder 100-125 lbs. std. coil (1) 4Ó blue (1) 2Ó red
125-150 lbs. std. coil (1) 4Ó red (1) 2Ó blue
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. std. coil (1) 4Ó red (1) 2Ó red
170-190 lbs. std. coil (1) 4Ó red (1) 2Ó yel
190+lbs. std. coil (1) 4Ó yel (1) 2Ó red
TPC Sport
Damped Forks
Spyder R 100-125 lbs. std. coil (1) 1.5Ó red (2) 2Ó blue 5 weight
125-150 lbs. std. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1.5Ó red (2) 2Ó blue 5 weight
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 1.5Ó red 5 weight
170-190 lbs. std. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1.5Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 7.5 weight
190+lbs. std. coil (1) 1.5Ó red (2) 2Ó yel 15 weight

SX-E 100-125 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 5 weight
125-130 lbs. std. coil (3) 2Ó red 5 weight
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 2Ó yel 5 weight
170-190 lbs. std. coil (1) 2Ó red (2) 2Ó yel 7.5 weight
190+lbs. 160 std. coil (3) 2Ó yel 15 weight

X-VERT E 100-125 lbs. std. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (2) 1Ó blue 5 weight
125-150 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 1Ó blue 5 weight
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. std. coil (3) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red 5 weight
170-190 lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 1Ó yel 7.5 weight
190+lbs. std. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 1Ó yel 15 weight

X-Vert T 100-125 lbs. 120 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 5 weight
125-150 lbs. 140 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 2Ó blue 5 weight
Standard Set Up 150-170 lbs. 140 lb. coil (2) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red 5 weight
170-190 lbs. 1 140 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 1Ó yel 7.5 weight
190+ lbs. 160 lb. coil (1) 2Ó red (1) 1Ó red (1) 1Ó yel 15 weight

Note: Use only 1998 and 1999 MCUÕs

1999 SPRING TUNING KITS 85-3751 SX SOFT RIDE KIT

85-3844 SPYDER SOFT RIDE KIT 85-3752 SX MEDIUM RIDE KIT
85-3845 SPYDER MEDIUM RIDE KIT 85-3753 SX FIRM RIDE KIT
85-3846 SPYDER FIRM RIDE KIT 85-3751 SX R SOFT RIDE KIT
85-3755 SPYDER R SOFT RIDE KIT 85-3752 SX R MEDIUM RIDE KIT
85-3756 SPYDER R MEDIUM RIDE KIT 85-3753 SX R FIRM RIDE KIT
85-3757 SPYDER R FIRM RIDE KIT SUSPENSION FLUIDS
85-3751 SX E SOFT RIDE KIT 85-3814 MAXIMA SUSPENSION FLUID 5-WT-8OZ.
85-3752 SX E MEDIUM RIDE KIT 85-3820 MAXIMA SUSPENSION FLUID 7.5-WT-8OZ.
85-3753 SX E FIRM RIDE KIT 85-3822 MAXIMA SUSPENSION FLUID 10.-WT-8OZ.

CONTINUED

10 - 1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL

1999 SPRING TUNING KITS CONT. OBSERVATIONS LIKELY CAUSE
85-3841 SX TI SOFT RIDE KIT
Fork extends too quickly; Not enough rebound damping
85-3842 SX TI MEDIUM RIDE KIT wheel springs up from ground
85-3843 SX TI FIRM RIDE KIT after landing from jumps; diffi-
cult to maintain straight path
85-3841 SX CARBON SOFT RIDE KIT in rocks; front end tries to
85-3842 SX CARBON MEDIUM RIDE KIT climb berm or groove while
cornering; tall ride height;
85-3843 SX CARBON FIRM RIDE KIT hard to turn into corner
85-3838 X-VERT E SOFT RIDE KIT
Fork rarely bottoms; harsh Too much compression
85-3839 X-VERT E MEDIUM RIDE KIT feel; tall ride height despite damping
85-3840 X-VERT E FIRM RIDE KIT soft spring and/or minimum
preload; hard to turn into
85-3871 X-VERT R AND T SOFT RIDE KIT corner
85-3872 X-VERT R AND T MEDIUM RIDE KIT
85-3872 X-VERT R AND T FIRM RIDE KIT Fork feels too hard or stiff Too much rebound damping;
spring rate too stiff; too much
85-3838 X-VERT SOFT RIDE KIT compression damping; fork
85-3839 X-VERT MEDIUM RIDE KIT fluid weight too heavy; spring
rate possibly bit soft
85-3840 X-VERT FIRM RIDE KIT
85-3841 X-VERT CARBON SOFT RIDE KIT
85-3842 X-VERT CARBON MEDIUM RIDE KIT Fork feels too soft Spring rate too soft; compres-
sion damping too light; fork
85-3843 X-VERT CARBON FIRM RIDE KIT fluid weight too light; fork fluid
worn out; cartridge lacks fork
fluid
SERVICE MANUALS
Harsh feel, especially through Too much rebound damping
X-VERT FORKS 062168 successive rapid hits (braking
SX FORKS 062167 bumps, etc.); bottoming after
3-4 successive large hits; fail-
SPYDER FORKS 062166 ure to rebound after landing
from jumps; low ride height;
easy to turn into corner; fork
• Chapter 7: TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS bottoms despite correct
compression damping &
A. IDENTIFYING PROBLEMS spring rate
Following are symptoms that will help you identify a suspension
problem. Remember that some problems might be due to more than
one cause and that it is easier to pinpoint the cause by looking for Fork bottoms; “diving” feel Not enough compression
more than one symptom. While riding, pay attention to how the while braking for turns; easy damping
suspension feels and what that feel might be attributed to. to turn into corner; fork Spring rate too soft
unstable

OBSERVATIONS LIKELY CAUSE

B. TYPICAL PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
Fork bottoms; needs more Spring rate too soft or fork oil Here are some typical problems encountered by riders in various situ-
than maximum preload; front weight too low ations and what can be done to solve them, step by step—or at least
end too low on downhills Compression damping help alleviate their severity until an authorized technician can be
too soft backed out too far consulted. If you have one of these problems and wish to solve it, start
with solution one. If that doesn’t solve it completely, try
Fork rarely/never bottoms; Spring rate too stiff; Fork oil solution two. Still not good? Go to solution three.
doesn’t use full travel weight too high or
compression damping too firm
Front end searches or is nervous when descending hills
Static sag excessive; front Not enough preload 1. Increase spring preload
end too low entering turns; Spring rate too soft 2. Increase compression damping
front end “knifes” (over- 3. Use stiffer springs
steers, turns in too easily)
4. Increase rebound damping
Front end “washes out” in turns (understeers, tends to
Static sag non/barely exis- Too much preload push outward)
tent; fork feels stiff or harsh; Spring rate too stiff
hard to turn into corner; low- 1. Increase rebound damping
speed turning ability sluggish
2. Reduce preload
3. Reduce compression damping
4. Use softer springs

1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL - 11

 Front end “knifes” in turns (oversteers, tends MANITOU DAMPER REBUILD KITS
to turn inward, dives)
X-Vert Comp 85-3805
1. Reduce rebound damping X-Vert E Comp 85-3801
2. Increase preload X-Vert R/Carbon Comp 85-3817
3. Increase compression damping X-Vert T Comp 85-3816
4. Use stiffer springs
Fork doesn’t respond to small bumps in turns MANITOU BUSHING-SEAL REBUILD KITS
1999 Spyder/R 85-3826
1. Reduce rebound damping SX/E/R/Ti 85-3827
2. Reduce compression damping
X-Vert/E/R/Ti 85-3828
3. Reduce preload
4. Use softer springs

SERVICE SCHEDULE
• Chapter 8: MAINTAINING If you simply bolted on a new Manitou and rode, you’d notice an
SUSPENSION BLISS immediate improvement over other suspension forks. One of the ben-
efits of investing in a Manitou fork is the ability to adjust the
Don’t forget, though, that like any moving part, a Manitou suspension suspension for riders of very different sizes and abilities, as well as
fork requires regular maintenance. If it doesn’t receive such service, it variations in terrain and conditions. Yes, it takes a little time and
will lose performance, wear out quickly, negating all of the work put effort, but if you dial in your suspension, you’ll find each ride more
into dialing it in—not to mention the money it cost in the first place. enjoyable and rewarding, and you’ll be able to ride faster easier and
Riding in severe conditions such as mud and water make regular main- with more control.
tenance even more important. If you maintain your fork on a regular
basis and microlube it often, you won’t have wasted your time and you For those who go to the races, look for the Manitou Racing
won’t waste your fork. Thus, learn how to maintain your Manitou Development technical-support vehicles at many major events world-
properly in this section. wide. They’re there for you. Our technicians will try to answer any
technical questions or solve equipment problems. We offer emer-
The fork boots and wiper seals that are standard equipment on all 1999 gency service out of these vehicles to riders of all levels, not just our
Manitou forks greatly reduce the chance of contamination from the ele- sponsored elite. Our goal is to ensure that our customers enjoy each
ments. We recommend keeping the fork boots on at all times—even in event to its fullest. For more information...don’t forget to check our
good conditions—for extended service life and optimum performance. website at www.answerproducts.com.
When servicing the fork, take the time to inspect all parts for exces-
sive wear or damage. Pay close attention to the bushings, which can
be damaged by contamination in severe conditions. Replace any worn
or damaged parts that are discovered. This will ensure optimum Suggested Service For Manitou Forks/Normal Conditions
performance from the fork.
Short/Sporadic Rides Long/Frequent Rides
There are basically four things that will require attention: the
stanchions (inner legs), the bushings in the outer legs, the spring Lube fork as needed with Lube fork as needed with
Prep M grease via Microlube Prep M grease via Microlube
stack and the damping fluid. All of this requires disassembly of the
lubrication ports lubrication ports
fork. It isn’t particularly difficult, but those uncomfortable with
disassembling mechanical things should let a qualified technician do Disassemble fork per owner’s Disassemble fork per owner’s
it. The last thing you want to do is butcher the things that allow your manual; clean and grease manual; clean and grease
Manitou fork to work. every 4-5 months every 8-10 weeks
Grease spring stack as needed Grease spring stack as needed
One thing to remember is that the fork fluid needs changing regularly,
just like the oil in a car’s engine. Fresh fluid ensures Service TPC and TPC Sport Service TPC and TPC Sport
quality, consistent damping, and it also acts as a lubricant for the by changing fork fluid every by changing fork fluid every
piston and inner wall. When changing fork fluid, we recommend that year year
you also replace the TPC chamber seals and replace any parts that are
excessively worn or broken. Manitou offers rebuild kits for all forks Suggested Service For Manitou Forks/Severe Conditions
that makes this both easy and convenient. (mud, rain, snow, extreme dust)
Short/Sporadic Rides Long/Frequent Ride
Lube fork as needed with Lube fork as needed with
MANITOU DAMPER REBUILD KITS Prep M grease via Microlube Prep M grease via Microlube
1999 Spyder R Rebound 85-3802 lubrication ports lubrication ports
SX RR/TI Carbon Rbd 85-3804
SX Rebound 85-3807 Disassemble fork per owner’s Disassemble fork per owner’s
SX E Rebound 85-3806 manual; clean and grease manual; clean and grease
every 6-8 weeks every 4-6 weeks
X-Vert/R Rebound 85-3808
X-Vert E/T Rebound 85-3809 Grease spring stack as needed Grease spring stack as needed
X-Vert Carbon Rbd 85-3819
Spyder R/Sx E Comp 85-3801 Service TPC and TPC Sport Service TPC and TPC Sport
SX Comp 85-3803 by changing fork fluid every by changing fork fluid every
8 months 8 months
SX R/Ti/Carbon Comp 85-3805

12 - 1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL

• Chapter 9: DISASSEMBLY/
REASSEMBLY (NOTE: Before proceeding with the rest of the reassembly process,
make sure that the black second-stage elastomer, the cup washer and
the orange third-stage elastomer are installed on the compression rod,
A. MANITOU DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE and that the detent ball and orange third-stage elastomer are installed
on the damper shaft.)
All 1996 and later Manitou oil-damped forks use the same general
disassembly/assembly methods. The fork doesn’t have to be removed 4. Slide the fork boots onto the inner legs; push them up until
from the bicycle for general disassembly/assembly or cleaning, as the they are in position beneath the crown and lightly grease
crown and inner legs can remain on the bike. Here’s how to remove the inner leg.
the outer legs and arch assembly: 5. Slide the outer leg/arch assembly onto the inner legs and
fully compress the fork.
1. Remove the lower compression rod screw from the right-leg 6. Install the compression-rod screw back into the right-leg
dropout with a 4mm Allen wrench. dropout with a 4mm Allen wrench and the dropout nut into
2. Pop out the damping adjuster knob from the left-leg dropout the left-leg dropout with an 8mm Allen wrench. Tighten to a
(a small screwdriver may be helpful for this). Then remove torque reading between 10-30 inch-lb. (1.1-3.5 N-m).
the retainer screw with an 8mm Allen wrench. Beware: Over-torquing the dropout nut may damage the
damper shaft.
3. Pull down on the outer leg assembly (sliders) to separate
them from the inner legs and the crown. 7. Pop the damping adjuster knob back into the left-leg
dropout. (An O-ring holds the knob in place.)
4. Remove the fork boots. 8. Slide the skirt of each fork boot onto the outer leg’s corre
(NOTE: Removing the dust seal every time the fork is disassembled sponding groove. Be sure the skirt’s lip sits down into the
corresponding groove. Be sure the skirt’s lip sits down into
is not recommended. The seal and bushings in each leg may be
the groove.
cleaned and regreased while in place.)
Inspection GLOSSARY of USEFUL TERMS
1. Clean all parts thoroughly with non flammable solvent. Compression damping: The act of controlling the compression of a
fork by changing the energy of motion into heat and then dissipating
2. Check the fork boots and felt wipers for excess wear, tears it by way of an oil-based fluid.
or other obvious damage.
Coil Spring: A wound spring made of metal.
3. Check the dust seals for tears or other damage; replace the
seals if necessary. Damping: The act of absorbing shock by changing the energy of
4. Inspect both the lower and upper bushings for excessive motion into heat and then dissipating it by way of an oil-based fluid.
wear or damage; replace them if necessary. Elastomer: A urethane bumper which is used as a spring in a
5. Check each outer leg/arch assembly for nicks or deep suspension fork.
gouges on both the inner and outer surfaces; replace MCU:A urethane bumper, like an elastomer, which is used as a
if necessary. spring; a special process forces air into the elastomer during con-
6. Check each inner leg for deep gouges and other obvious struction allowing it to both compress and deform, providing limited
damage. Minor wear resulting in color change is not detri damping in some uses.
mental to the gold-anodized surface. If there’s excessive Preload: The loading of a spring via dial adjuster.
wear or damage, replace the inner leg.
Rebound damping: The act of controlling the extension of a fork by
7. Check the inner legs at the bottom of the crown for cracks
changing the energy of motion into heat and then dissipating it by way
or flaking of the anodizing. Replace the leg if a crack is of an oil-based fluid.
discovered or if the gold anodizing is starting to flake.
8. Check the underside of the crown for cracks; replace if cracked. Sag: The amount the suspension settles under normal rider weight.
Spring rate:A measure of the spring’s stiffness or softness.

B. MANITOU REASSEMBLY PROCEDURE TPC: (Twin Piston Chamber ): Manitou’s revolutionary system of
1. After thoroughly inspecting the fork and replacing parts damping which uses two independent pistons for control of compres-
sion and rebound damping.
where necessary, lightly grease the inner diameter of the top
and bottom bushings. MRD: Manitou Racing Development is the division of Manitou
2. Liberally grease the wiper. Performance Bicycle Components responsible for ensuring that
3. Grease the compression rod lightly. Manitou-sponsored racers are riding the best suspension forks and
shocks in the world.

1999 MANITOU TUNING MANUAL - 13

SERVICE MANUALS MANITOU DAMPER REBUILD KITS
1999 Spyder 062166 1999 Spyder R Rebound 85-3802
1999 SX 062167 SX RR/TI Carbon Rbd 85-3804
1999 X-Vert 062168 SX Rebound 85-3807
SX E Rebound 85-3806
1999 SPRING TUNING KITS X-Vert/R Rebound 85-3808
85-3844 SPYDER SOFT RIDE KIT X-Vert E/T Rebound 85-3809
85-3845 SPYDER MEDIUM RIDE KIT X-Vert Carbon Rbd 85-3819
85-3846 SPYDER FIRM RIDE KIT Spyder R/Sx E Comp 85-3801
85-3755 SPYDER R SOFT RIDE KIT SX Comp 85-3803
SX R/Ti/Carbon Comp 85-3805
85-3756 SPYDER R MEDIUM RIDE KIT
85-3757 SPYDER R FIRM RIDE KIT MANITOU DAMPER REBUILD KITS
85-3751 SX E SOFT RIDE KIT X-Vert Comp 85-3805
85-3752 SX E MEDIUM RIDE KIT X-Vert E Comp 85-3801
85-3753 SX E FIRM RIDE KIT X-Vert R/Carbon Comp 85-3817
X-Vert T Comp 85-3816
85-3751 SX SOFT RIDE KIT
85-3752 SX MEDIUM RIDE KIT MANITOU BUSHING-SEAL REBUILD KITS
85-3753 SX FIRM RIDE KIT 1999 Spyder/R 85-3826
85-3751 SX R SOFT RIDE KIT SX/E/R/Ti 85-3827
X-Vert/E/R/Ti 85-3828
85-3752 SX R MEDIUM RIDE KIT
85-3753 SX R FIRM RIDE KIT
85-3841 SX TI SOFT RIDE KIT LUBRICANTS
85-3842 SX TI MEDIUM RIDE KIT 85-3810 Manitou Prep M lubricant
85-3843 SX TI FIRM RIDE KIT 85-3812 Manitou Prep M lube gun
85-3841 SX CARBON SOFT RIDE KIT MRD LOCKOUT
85-3842 SX CARBON MEDIUM RIDE KIT 85-3704 1999 Manitou SX-E
85-3843 SX CARBON FIRM RIDE KIT 85-3734 1999 Manitou SX, SXR, SX Ti
85-3838 X-VERT E SOFT RIDE KIT 85-3759 1999 Manitou SX Carbon
85-3839 X-VERT E MEDIUM RIDE KIT 85-3703 1998 Manitou SX
85-3840 X-VERT E FIRM RIDE KIT
85-3871 X-VERT R AND T SOFT RIDE KIT
85-3872 X-VERT R AND T MEDIUM RIDE KIT Log on to our website at www.answerproducts.com and you can
download service manuals for 1999 model year forks.
85-3872 X-VERT R AND T FIRM RIDE KIT
85-3838 X-VERT SOFT RIDE KIT
85-3839 X-VERT MEDIUM RIDE KIT
85-3840 X-VERT FIRM RIDE KIT
85-3841 X-VERT CARBON SOFT RIDE KIT
85-3842 X-VERT CARBON MEDIUM RIDE KIT
85-3843 X-VERT CARBON FIRM RIDE KIT

Part No. 85-3578

$2.95 U.S.
ANSWER PRODUCTS, INC.
28209 AVENUE STANFORD, VALENCIA, CA 91355