INTRODUCTION

The purpose of this Manual is to gather important order information and

special Textile Department requirements in one document, and make it
easy accessible to our Suppliers.
We expect that the Suppliers will read through the Manual and comply
with mentioned requirements. The Supplier is responsible for always being
abreast.
The Supplier is responsible for always being abreast with the ABC Group;
Textile Supplier Manual. Any adjustments of the content will be
announced via E-mail.
Please feel free to contact ABC Group, Textile Buying Department in
case of any doubts or further questions.

Thank you for your cooperation.

ABC Group, Textile Buying Department.

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PURCHASE ORDERS
The correct product, correct quantity and agreed upon price, delivered on
the date which has been confirmed by the vendor. In order to achieve
this, vendors must ship the exact product and quantities that have been
confirmed. Listed in this section are purchase order policies and
procedures, and replacement parts terms and conditions. All matters
relating to any purchase order, including any dispute arising out of a
purchase order.

PURCHASE ORDERS POLICIES AND PROCEDURE:

CONFIRMATION
All orders are valid only upon receipt by the vendor of a confirmation copy
of a released purchase order. Purchase orders can be sent in one of two
ways: a faxed transmission of a hard copy, or email.

ACCEPTANCE
The purchase order is complete and accurate when the order is received.
If there are questions with regard to the order, contact the appropriate
ABC Group Buyer. Vendor’s acceptance, confirmation, or
acknowledgement of an order, or shipment against an order will constitute
acceptance of: (a) pricing, terms and conditions of the order.

FAILURE TO COMPLY
(a) Refuse delivery of an order and return it to the vendor at the vendor’s
expense or (b) accept the order (or part thereof and return the
balance at the vendor’s expense) if any of the following occur: Goods
shipped do not comply with ABC’s drawings and specification
(b) Goods shipped are damaged

LATE SHIPMENTS
All shipments of product must arrive at ABC Group no later than the due
date which has been confirmed by the vendor and documented on the
purchase order. Late shipments are unacceptable, and may issue a debit
memo for reimbursement of any costs incurred due to product arriving
late. If you anticipate a late shipment, you must notify the purchasing
department of the delay.

EARLY SHIPMENTS
Product should not arrive at the designated warehouse more than 4 days
early, unless approved by an ABC Purchasing agent.

SUSPENSION OR CANCELLATION
Suspension or cancellation of deliveries may be made by purchasing
during the existence of strikes, labour disturbances, secondary boycotts,
fires, power shortages, floods or other situations arising from causes not

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within Purchaser’s practicable control. Termination by buying department
of this order may be made by written or electronic communication stating
extent and effective date.

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RETURN TO VENDOR POLICY
The procedures for disposing returnable product. Vendors are responsible
for all costs associated with inspecting, warehousing, handling,
transporting, and disposing of returnable product.

RETURN TO VENDOR POLICY

Be afforded full and unconditional return privileges from all of our vendors
unless a guaranteed defective allowance has been negotiated in advance
for damaged and defective product.

RETURN OPTIONS
 Defective Allowance Negotiated in advance to cover costs incurred for
defective or damaged product
 Return to Vendor - Damaged or defective goods that are shipped to
vendor for full credit.
 Destroy for full credit - For those manufacturers who authorize
destroying the product for full credit instead of returning.

REPAIRED, REWORKED, OR REPLACEMENT

PRODUCT
The right to not accept repaired, reworked, or replacement product in
place of a defective allowance or in place of receiving full credit for the
return of damage/defective returns. Damaged or defective product that
has been repaired or reworked may be refused and immediately returned
at vendor’s expense.

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MASTER DATA FORM - FROM SUPPLIER
Please follow the guidelines to fill the master data forms.
At every order the Supplier must fill in a Master data Sheet.
It is very important that the Master data Sheet containing crucial
information about dimensions is forwarded to ABC GROUP at the
same time as the order confirmation.

 Please forward the order confirmation to Goods flow as usual via the
e-mail address [email protected]
 Please forward the dimensions to Master data via the e-mail address
[email protected]

Please specify your mails with the specific order number and department
number in the subject column when sending the mails.

Suppliers have to send all the relevant information about the order to
respective buying department of ABC Group

Guidance to the Master data sheet

1. If you have inner carton to be packed in a master carton/outer
carton you have to fill in the dimensions for the inner carton in the
field called shipping unit and the dimensions for the master
carton/outer carton in the field called receiving unit.
2. Under receiving unit you should write the number of inner cartons
and under shipping unit you write pcs. Per/pack
3. In addition to this you also have to explain if the shipping unit is
packed in a polybag, you choose the field: packed in polybag, if the
shipping unit is packed in a carton you ignore the field.
4. You can always use the Guide in the Masterdata sheet if you need
further explanation, or press the question marks for a simple
explanation.

Decant orders:
Please fill out all red marks if the order is decant ( this means more than 1
polybag / inside a carton)
If unpacking is not necessary/the order is not decant only fill out
information regarding dimensions and weight for outer-carton.

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6
TEXTILE CHEMICAL RESTRICTIONS POLICY.
Concentration Limit. The substance must not be present
in the product at concentrations
above this limit.
Not Detected. The substance must not be present
in the finished product at
concentrations above the analytical
reporting limit.
Usage ban. The substance must not be used in
the production and it must not be
added to the product.
Homogeneous Uniform composition throughout.
Kinematic limit Describes how fast a fluid is spread
on a flat surface in relation to its
mass, i.e. weight
Reporting limit Describes the level of detection
times a safety factor selected by
the laboratory that ensures
repeatability and reproducibility.
Self-declaration All chemicals used should have
Safety Data Sheets (SDS), showing
that no restricted substance is
included. Upon request supplier
must be able to present the SDS for
the chemicals used in the
production of the requested
product. Other supporting
documents such as certificates
from subcontractors etc. can also
be considered as a part of the SDS.
Substances defined as hazardous Persistent, bio-accumulative and
due to intrinsic properties. toxic (PBT), very persistent and
very bio-accumulative (vPvB),
carcinogenic, mutagenic and toxic
for reproduction (CMR), endocrine
disruptors (ED) or equivalent
concern.
DEFINITIONS
LIST OF RESTRICTIONS
 Polyvinylchloride (PVC) - ABC Group; Textile does not buy any
products containing PVC. Including plastic covers, bags, wrapping
etc. related to packing and shipping. Warranty of no PVC
containment is included in ABC Group; Textile Department’s Trade
Terms per October 2013 and forward. Test method is Beilstein’s test
and infrared spectroscopy with or without chemical separation.

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 Chromium - Chromium VI is known to cause severe allergic
contact dermatitis in humans and to be able to elicit dermatitis at
very low concentrations. Extractable chromium VI from shoes and
other articles of leather represent a risk for the development of
contact allergy to chromium for the consumers and workers. Test
method is EN ISO 16711-2.
 Sandblasting - Sandblasting is not an allowed process to apply on
any Apparel/ Footwear/Accessories.
 Nickel release (EN 1811) - Nickel limit restrictions. Testing
according to DIN EN 1811 (EN 12472 + A1 wear and corrosion from
coated item). For test results we go beyond legislation, and consider
inconclusive results (Inconclusive if the result falls in range 0.29 to
0.87 μg/cm²/week) as a Fail test. At ABC Group; Textile Department
only test results ≤ 0.28 μg/cm²/week are considered as a PASS test.
 Formaldehyde - Formaldehyde or commonly known as formalin is
a colorless, flammable and strong odor chemicals. It is the simplest
among other aldehydes with CH2O formula, it can leads to a lot of
health issues, such as skin irritation, eyes irritation, and even
cancer. 
 Pentachlorophenol (PCP) – pentachlorophenol is highly toxic and
any use of this substance in garment construction is prohibited by
ABC Group.
 Perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs) – use of Perfluorinated
chemicals to make the clothes breathable and water resistant is
prohibited.
 Benzidine - This chemicals has a gray-red, yellowish, or white
colour. It is very toxic and has a crystalline aromatic amine.
Benzidine has been used for manufacture of dyes. The chemical
should not be used in any part of garment construction by the
supplier.
 Brominated and Chlorinated Flame Retardants - Brominated
and chlorinated flame retardants (BFRs) commonly uses in textiles
that can cause bad for health such as hormone systems and effect
sexual development.
 Biocidal products - Follow the Biocidal Product Regulation. The
regulation concerns the placing on the market and the use of
Biocidal products, which are used to protect humans, animals,
materials or articles against harmful organisms like pests or bacteria
by the action of the active substances contained in the Biocidal
product
 Real fur - ABC Group; Textile Department does not buy any kind of
products containing real fur. Neither as whole garments, accessories
nor as any kind of trimming on same.
 Wool and Animal Hair - Angora Wool, Angora rabbit hair or wool
from sheep, that have been exposed to mulesing is not accepted.

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 Gas in containers- Suppliers must follow ABC Group; Textile
Department’s Trading Agreement and ABC Group’s Packing
Instructions to avoid harmful gas in containers:
o *Toluene (CAS no. 108-88-3)
Characteristics: Toluene is an organic solvent with
suspected reproductive damaging properties.
Limit value: There is a restriction of 1000 mg/kg. Use:
Toluene is often used in adhesives.
Alternatives: Use glues without toluene.
Comments: Residues of toluene most likely originate from
excessive use of glue in the production.
o *Benzene (CAS no. 71-43-2)
Characteristics: Benzene is an organic solvent having strong
carcinogenic and mutagenic properties.
Limit value: There is a restriction of 1000 mg/kg.
Use: Benzene might occur in glues and other applications
used in production of shoes. Also some mould prevention
properties are reported for benzene. Alternatives: Use
products without benzene in the production.
o *Formaldehyde (CAS no. 50-00-0)
Characteristics: Formaldehyde is an organic solvent with
limited evidence of carcinogenic effect. Formaldehyde has
toxic properties and may cause allergy by skin contact.

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QUALITY REQUIREMENTS
QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS
Our quality specifications involve items such as colour fastness to
washing, colour fastness to rubbing, tear resistance, abrasion resistance,
dimensional change and change in appearance in washing. Test methods
and requirements will clearly be stated on the individual specification
sheet attached to the individual order.

MEASURES FOR SIZES

Tolerance for measurements:
In general +/- 1 cm on measurements graded by 1 cm or more; +/- 0,5 cm
on measurements graded by 0,5-1 cm; in all max ½ size.

MANUFACTURING
Sewing thread
polyester (or polyester70/cotton30), size 30 for trousers. Colour must be
tone-in-tone with fabric colour. Same quality of tread in all seams. Tread
must meet the same requirements to colour fastness to washing as the
fabric.
Deco stitches: 1-needle or 2-needle lockstitches, 7-8 stitches/20 mm.
Corrections are not allowed on deco stitches.
The machine chosen
1-needle lock stitches, 1-needle over edge stitches and safety lock
stitches, 2-needle over lock stitches: 8-9 stitches/20 mm. 3- and 4-needle
over lock stitches, 3- and 4-needle over lock stitches combined with safety
lock stitches, 2-needle flat seam stitches, 2-needle lock stitch : 7-8
stitches/20 mm. 4- and 5-tread feed of the arm: 6-7 stitches/20 mm. 2-, 3-
and 4-needle interlock stitch machine: 10-12 stitches/20mm. 2-needle
chain stitch machine: 9 stitches/20 mm.
Trouser
Inseam, back rise, front rise and saddleback must be sewn with fell seam
(jeans seam). Front and back rise sewn first, inseam second. Side seam in
5-needle chain stitch. Buttonhole sewn w. eye buttonhole machine. Waist
stitching sewn w.1-needle chain stitch. Hemline sewn w. lockstitch. Button
at waist always placed in line w. zipper. Pocket lining made in cotton
sheeting.

ACCESSORIES
 All accessories must be attached properly.

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 For padding or shoulder pads, the padding must be bonded to prevent
fibre migration.
 Elastic band + elastic insert must retain the elasticity for the lifetime
of the product itself.
 Piping’s, lace and other trimmings made of fabric must meet the
same requirements to dimensional stability and to colour fastness as
the garment itself.
 Prints must be permanently fixed. Dyestuff and fixation processes
must be chosen to secure that the print meets the same requirements
to colour fastness to washing as set up for the garment in general.
 Interlining must be fused using correct temperature, time and
pressure. The material must remain smooth after fusing.

FINISH
 All seams and stitches must run evenly. All seams must be properly
attached. Buttonhole tread must be intact in both sides and
buttonholes must be properly trimmed. The tread tension on the
sewing machines must be correct adjusted to avoid slack or tight
stitches/seams. The fabric fibres must not be damaged by the use of
damaged or coarse needles. All goods must be properly trimmed.
Loose tread ends are not acceptable. Seams must not break when
garment is e.g. pulled over the head.
 The garment must be free of dirt, unnatural smells, flaws and stains
 The garment must not have any chemicals/enzymes leftovers after
washing/finish.

SAMPLES - GENERALLY
we need the samples for approval stated under “Deadlines” at the order
enquiry front page, and the number of samples required

All sample deadlines (ETA) stated in the order must be kept.

Failure to comply may result in cancelled orders and claim for lost
profits according to our general trading terms

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 Each individual sample must have sample hangtag with correct order
number, date, size, which kind of sample, weight, quality etc.
 Please specify what is actual/available on all samples.
 Please specify on sample hangtag/mail what we have to check for:
Quality, colour, design, print, finish, weight, dying of fabric.
 This is very important to save time in commenting

SIZE SET
 We need size set according to order sheet; 2 or 3 different sizes (not
the whole range). It is very important that you send these specific
sizes.
 Size set can be in available colours but must be correct/actual quality,
or rarely very similar to the correct quality. All workmanship must be
actual. Please follow the style sketch carefully – otherwise the
samples will not be approved.
 If any details are unclear to you, or if you have suggestions for
improved workmanship, please mail photo of details for approval
before sending size set samples or photo-samples, to save time.

LAB DIPS, DESK LOOMS, PRINT STRIKE OFF,

HANDLOOMS
 We need lab-dips/strike off etc. for approval in all colours/
combinations.
 We will ask for revised lab-dips/strike off etc. several times if we are
not satisfied.
 Lab dips will be approved under D65 (daylight), col. white also under
UV light.
 Please always write on lab dips/cuttings what we have to check for:
Quality, colour, design, print, finish, weight, dying of fabric.

PHOTO SAMPLE
 We need photo samples in sizes according to order sheet.
 Photo samples must be in all correct/actual color combinations, fabric,
trimming, correct main label, workmanship and design (or very close).
Occasionally we need photo samples in different sizes. We will inform
you.
 It is VERY important that you always keep deadlines for photo-
samples. When you accept the order, you confirm to keep all
deadlines given in the enquiry.

PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE
 We need PP samples in sizes according to order sheet.
 PP samples must be in bulk fabric, final approved workmanship, with
all bulk accessories such as labels, buttons zipper etc.

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 PP samples must be sent for approval, BEFORE/PRE starting bulk
production.

SHIPMENT SAMPLE
 We need shipment samples in all colour combinations, in sizes
according to order sheet.
 Shipment samples have to be sent 14 days before shipment and have
to be taken from the actual bulk production.
 Shipment samples have to be correct in every way and must be
approved prior to shipment of the goods.

DELAYS
If you are facing delay due to changes from our side, please inform us
BEFORE it is too late. Show us alternative solutions, tell us the
possibilities, and do not ignore delays. We need the best possible
garment, but we need it on time.
LABELS
The information required on clothing labels is governed under
two separate laws established by the Federal Trade Commission
(FTC).
The Textile and Wool Acts require that labels contain three pieces of
information pertaining to the garment: fibre content, country of origin,
and manufacturer, importer or dealer.
A garment label is a communicator between the buyer and product. A
garment label contains various types of information of that garments,
such as buyer name, country of origin, types of fabric, types of yarn, fabric
composition, garments size, special instruction about care etc. Without
any types of label, a garment cannot be sold in the foreign market.

LABELLING REGULATIONS
● The country of origin (COO) must be displayed on a permanent label in
the Centre Back (CB)neck or CB waistband of the garment.
● If product has a non-fabric belt (Faux Leather, Metal Chain type or Non-
Fabric Material) COO marking must be permanently stamped or
attached (bondable label or sewn hangtag)
● Fibre content must be displayed by generic name (i.e..: cotton, nylon,
rayon, etc.).
● Each fiber present in the amount of five (5) percent or more of the
garment must be declared as a percentage of the total fiber weight of
the product. Fiber Percentages must be listed in descending order.

SECTIONAL FIBRE DISCLOSURE IS REQUIRED FOR

THE FOLLOWING:
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● Items having combo fabrics differing in fiber content i.e.: Sleeve fabric
is different than body fabric – each sections fiber content must be
declared on the label.
● Styles with filling (example; down or poly filled outerwear). Filling must
be tested, and material content must be declared on the label.
● Style with Secret Fit Belly (SFB): The SFB is maternity specific function
and fiber must be declared on the care label.
● All labels must display the correct RN identification number: RN#
79913 for all DM product.
● All Labels must display the correct CA identification number: CA#
11414 for all DM Product.
● Garment care labels must be permanently attached and can withstand
10 launderings or the useful life of the product, whichever is less. The
label, the care and any additional written information must remain
legible for this length of time.
● Care label must be sewn in permanently and must comply with
regulations. For packaged product, if care label is not visible through
packaging, the care instructions must be repeated on the packaging.
● Care symbols are required on all care labels. Because Destination
Maternity sells product internationally, 5 care symbols are required on
all care labels: Washing, Bleaching, Drying, Ironing and Dry Cleaning -
NO EXCEPTIONS.
● All belts require Country of Origin (Tri-Lingual) marking permanently
stamped (non-fabric belts) or attached (white bondable label or coated
paper sewn in label. (Metal chain type belts require white COO hangtag
with black type and attached with locking swiftack).
There are mainly two types of label and these are-

● Main Label,
● Sub Label.

A. Main Label:
Main label contains the Brand name
or Brand logo of buyer such as H&M,
American Eagle, Nautica etc. Brand
name is the important factor for any
product. Because the customers are
targeted the Brand during buying any
product. A Brand name is the mental
satisfaction about the product from
the customer’s point of view. A main
label is totally certified the right
quality of the brand.

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MAIN LABEL CONSISTS OF:
● Main label should consist of brand name. Brand name is the important
factor for any product.
● It should consist of brand logo.

Main label placement

● Main label info is printed or embroidered on a label.

● Printed 1/2” below waistband and 3/4” away from centre back seam on
wearers left back.
● Main label use end fold label and sew 2 end folds at centre back of
waistband.
● Labels must be made of suitable material capable to withstand several
washings corresponding to the lifetime of the product.
● Labels must be fastened securely and be legible both in relation to text
and symbols during the useful life of the product
● Labels must be fastened so they can be seen or easily found by
consumers at the point of sale
● None of the symbols or the text on the label must be covered up.

SUB

LABEL:
Sub Label is not a label by itself but it includes different types of
label. These are in the following:

1. Care Label,
2. Size Label,
3. Price Label,
4. Composition Label,
5. Special Label,
6. Flag Label.

SIZE LABEL
Important size instruction
● Position of the size label must be on the back of the trouser belt that it
is clearly visible.
● For a label sewn in more than one side, the label should have similar
shrinkage characteristic to base fabric.

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● For an adhesive label, it should not produce any bubbling or
delamination when fabric is subjected to cleansing treatment.

The labelling system consist of:

● Size label that indicates the size of the garments.

● Size labels are indicated as S for small.
● Size labels M is indicated for medium.
● Size label L is indicated for large.
● Size label XL is indicated for extra-large.

Placements of labels

● Size info must be placed directly on the product or on a label. If this is

not applicable/possible, the information can be printed directly on the
packing -please contact the Textile Buying Department for confirmation
regarding this.
● Labels must be made of suitable material capable to withstand several
washings corresponding to the lifetime of the product.
● Labels must be fastened securely and be legible both in relation to text
and symbols during the useful life of the product.
● Labels must be fastened so they can be seen or easily found by
consumers at the point of sale.
● None of the symbols or the text on the label must be covered up.
● Adult sizes: For all upper parts + skirts care label must be placed in
left side seam 10 cm. up from bottom hem. For pants care label must
be placed at left side seam, if no side seam at back seam, 10 cm down
from waistband.

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 PRICE LABEL:
Important price label instruction
●Position of the price label must be on the back of the trouser belt that it is
clearly visible.
●For a label sewn in more than one side, the label should have similar
shrinkage characteristic to base fabric.
●For an adhesive label, it should not produce any bubbling or delamination
when fabric is subjected to cleansing treatment.
Price label indicates the price of the garments.

Labelling system consist of

●Generally, a price label is made up of hard paper
●A barcode is given on price label so you can scan that and get the whole
information about the product its content, colour.

Placements of labels

● Price info must be placed directly on the product or on a label. If this is

not applicable/possible, the information can be printed directly on the
packing -please contact the Textile Buying Department for confirmation
regarding this.

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● Labels must be made of suitable material capable to withstand several
washings corresponding to the lifetime of the product.
● Labels must be fastened securely and be legible both in relation to text
and symbols during the useful life of the product
● Labels must be fastened so they can be seen or easily found by
consumers at the point of sale
● None of the symbols or the text on the label must be covered up.

COMPOSITION LABEL:
Labelling consist of

● Composition label must have the fabrication and composition

percentage trousers. That means,
● It indicates which fabrication (Cotton Sub denim, Cotton Regular denim
etc.).
● Composition percentage (95% Cotton 5% Spandex, 100% Cotton etc.)
have followed during its manufacturing.

Placement of labels

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 ● Composition label must be placed directly on the product or on a label.
Proper percentage of different fabric content should be mentioned.
● Labels must be made of suitable material capable to withstand several
washings corresponding to the lifetime of the product.
● Labels must be fastened securely and be legible both in relation to text
and symbols during the useful life of the product
● Labels must be fastened so they can be seen or easily found by
consumers at the point of sale
● None of the symbols or the text on the label must be covered up.

SPECIAL LABEL:
Sometimes the buyer advised to use special label in the garments to
attract the customers on their items. Special labels are 100% silk, 100%
Cotton and 100% Leather etc.

Labelling consist of

●Special label consists of special feature of the product for

example if it is 100% cotton or any other special feature.

Placements of labels

● Labels must be made of suitable material capable to withstand several

washings corresponding to the lifetime of the product.
● Labels must be fastened securely and be legible both in relation to text
and symbols during the useful life of the product.
● Labels must be fastened so they can be seen or easily found by
consumers at the point of sale.

FLAG LABEL:

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Flag label is a very small label contains Brands name or Brands
logo of the buyer. It is attached in the side seam of bottom parts
of the garments.

The labels are attached at different locations on the garments. Most

commonly they are attached at the back of the neck, under the side
seam, near the cuff area, or written over the selvedge of the fabric or
printed onto the packaging of the product.

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SECURITY TAGS / ALARMS HARD ALARM
Please notice that if alarm is required it will be mentioned in the order
enquiry. The security tag/ alarm must be included in the cost price (also
the customs duties).

Alarm instructions No alarms for fine woven silk or cotton, where the
heavy alarm might cause holes. By mounting of alarm tags, kindly make
sure that the alarm tag is attached in a seam, so that the garment fabric
is not damaged. If Supplier does not follow our procedures for security
tags, Supplier will be charged.

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TESTING
TEST BUREAU AND TESTING EXPENSE
All tests should be submitted to Bureau XYZ.
By choice of an additional test bureau, Supplier must seek approval at
ABC Group; Quality Department before further test arrangements.
Supplier can benefit from ABC Group’s special price offers agreed with
Bureau XYZ for both individual and package quality testing, nickel release
testing, analytical testing according to ABC Group; Textile Department’s
RSL, final inspections and for sample pick.
Current price list can be requested at ABC Group; Quality Department.
If Supplier should experience any divergence between unit price stated in
invoice contra unit price informed by ABC Group, Quality Department,
please contact Quality Department via [email protected]
The Supplier must take care of all testing expenses including final
inspections and sample pick.

DEADLINES
Supplier must at all times keep the planned deadlines for returning any
test report according to ABC Group; Textile Department’s requests. If it is
not possible to keep the deadline, Supplier must at once inform ABC
Group; Quality Department, and the relevant Buying Group.
An exceeded deadline without further agreement with ABC Group; Quality
Department, entitles ABC Group; Textile Department to cancel the order.

TEST REPORTS
ABC Group; Quality Department only accepts test reports coming directly
from test lab. This regards all testing reports e.g. quality testing, nickel
release testing, RSL testing etc.
ABC Group; Textile Department does NOT accept older test reports, or
test reports on similar products. A valid test report is performed on the
requested order, and includes a photo of the tested product.

EXCEPTIONS
A-Brands and semi-brands are generally not tested.
By signing the Trading Agreement ABC Group; Textile Department, all
suppliers comply to meet the order specific quality requirements.

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SPECIAL FOR KIDS AND SPORT TECNICAL WEAR
FINAL INSPECTION
ABC Group; Textile Department runs final inspections on some Kids and
Sport technical wear orders. Supplier will be informed if this becomes
relevant.

SAMPLE PICK
ABC Group; Textile Department requires sample pick on some Kids and
Sport technical wear orders, which means that Bureau XYZ will be picking
up the necessary samples at the relevant factory. Supplier will be
informed if this becomes relevant.

TEST ON BULK FABRIC AND FINAL GARMENT

For all Kids technical wear and Sport technical wear ABC Group; Textile
Department requires bulk fabric test before production start, and final
garment tests for all colour combinations according to quality requirement
specifications.

RELEVANT FOR ALL ORDERS

QUALITY TEST
Supplier must at all times comply with the order specific quality
specifications.
If any of the quality requirements are not to be met, Supplier must at once
inform ABC Group; Textile Department. The Textile Department will then
decide what further action to be done.
ABC Group; Textile Department requires test on 5-10% of incoming
orders on quarterly basis in regard to our quality specifications. Supplier
will be informed via E-mail by the Quality Department, which orders that
should be submitted to test. A detailed guideline will follow in the E-mail
testing request.
Violation of the quality specifications entitles ABC Group; Textile
Department to cancel the order.
The Textile Quality Department handles all testing. In case of any
questions please do not hesitate to ask.

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES TEST

ABC Group; Textile Department is at any time entitled to arrange tests in
regard to ABC Group, Textile Department’s Restricted Substances List
(testing according to REACH, other restricted substances, PVC, Chromium
etc.)
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Definition RSL
A developed list of restricted substances - chemicals that are banned,
restricted or are of any further concern. The purpose of the RSL is to
reduce the use of hazardous substances in our products and packing
material.
Products and packing material that do not comply with the RSL are not
accepted.
Supplier will, in reasonable time, be informed via E-mail by the Textile
Quality Department of exactly which orders, that should be submitted to
test.
Noncompliance on requirements in regard to the RSL, or specific ABC
Group; Textile Department standards, will entitle ABC Group; Textile
Department to cancel the order.

NICKEL RELEASE TEST

For all orders with metal components (e.g. zippers, buttons, eyelets etc.)
within the Baby/Kids category, ABC Group; Textile Department requires a
PASS Nickel Release test report. This has been decided based on
recommendations from the Indian Ministry of Environment.
For new Suppliers, and Suppliers who have been tested, but failed earlier
in a nickel release test, ABC Group, Textile Department also requires a
PASS nickel release test on all orders within a certain time interval.
For all adult products ABC Group; Textile Department requires nickel
release tests corresponding to 20% of the total order amount with metal
parts per supplier per quarter, OR minimum test on one order with metal
parts per supplier per year. Direct skin contact is considered before
testing.
Exceptions; There is no need to test for nickel release if the metal parts
are of the original brand YKK or PRYM. Neither does ABC Group; Textile
Department require a nickel release test if the metal component supplier
is OEKO-TEX certified. In such cases Supplier is requested to forward a
valid invoice or certificate as documentation.
Supplier must test according to DIN EN 1811:2011 (EN 12472)+A1:2015
(wear & corrosion from coated item).
Please note that ABC Group, Textile Department follows stricter limits
than stated in the test standard DIN EN 1811:2011+A1:2015
Metal components Results (R) DIN EN 1811:2011 Dansk ABC limit
(μg/cm2/week) (EN 12472) +A1:2015 standard

Earrings and piercings R ≤ 0,11 PASS PASS*

0,11 < R < 0,35 FAIL

24
 R ≥ 0,35 FAIL

Other components R ≤ 0,28 PASS PASS**

0,28 < R < 0,88 FAIL
R ≥ 0,88 FAIL
*A PASS test must be ≤ 0,11 μg/cm2/week **A PASS test
must be ≤ 0,28 μg/cm2/week
Any breach of the ABC Group; Textile Department limit standards on
Nickel release is considered material noncompliance.

25
CARELABEL
DS/EN ISO 3758:2012 Textiles - Care labelling code using symbols.

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
 For all orders ABC Group; Textile Department demands origin in
Care label info, on hangtag, sticker, directly on packing depending
on the product type. This will be specified in the individual order
enquiry.
 The Supplier must also advise country of origin (produced in…….) at
the order confirmation or Pro forma invoice sent to our Goods flow
department, at all orders. We suggest to add this information at the
top of the document with the additional seller details.
 In this context we kindly remind you about the importance of the
order confirmation – ABC Group requires a forwarded order
confirmation on ALL orders.
The wording regarding country of origin must always be in
English
Exception: Branded goods are not affected by the requirement regarding country of production.

FIBRE CONTENT / COMPOSITION

 Fibre composition must be written at the care label.
 It id suppliers responsibility to write the correct information on the
label.
 If any animal material is used than it must be clearly mentioned in
care label.

SYMBOLS
Please follow latest standard DS/EN ISO 3758 Textiles for symbols etc.-
Sequence of symbols must be: WASHING/ BLEACHING/ DRYING/
IRONING/ PROFESSIONAL DRY CLEANING

 All 5 symbols must be added. If more than one drying or cleaning

symbol is needed the sequence must be: WASHING /
BLEACHING / DRYING / NATURAL DRYING / IRONING / PRO
DRY CLEANING / PRO WET CLEANING.
 If no additional info is stated than the 5 symbols, all cleaning
covered by these symbols can be used.
 Cleaning according to the symbols applies to the whole of the
product unless otherwise added.
 If drying symbol is “do not tumble dry”, you can add text for natural
Drying, instead of adding an extra symbol.

26
IMPORTANT WASH CARE LABLE INSTRUCTIONS
 Position of the care label must be such that it is clearly visible
 For articles which are packaged, displayed, and folded is such a way
that information is inaccessible, an extra wash care label must be
given on a wing ticket or adhesive label, or in a pamphlet along with
the article.
 For a label sewn in more than one side, the label should have similar
shrinkage characteristic to base fabric.
 For an adhesive label, it should not produce any bubbling or
delamination when fabric is subjected to cleansing treatment.

THE LIBELLING SYSTEM CONSIST OF:

 Washing temperature (cold, warm, hot, very hot, boil).
 Agitation (hand wash, short machine wash, gentle machine wash,
machine wash).
 Drying method (tumble dried-cold/warm/hot, dip dry, dry flat, line
dry)
 Bleaching instructions
 Ironing (do not iron, cool, warm, hot steam)
 Dry-cleaning instructions are expressed as symbols listed below

Below please find the most common symbols used in India supported by
written explanation.

27
28
In general we ask for soft satin printed labels for care info. Please follow
instructions for lay-out, and follow text, symbols, price, art.no., order no.,
barcode, origin according to order.

PLACEMENT OF LABELS
 Care info must be placed directly on the product or on a label. If this is
not applicable/possible, the information can be printed directly on the
packing - please contact the Textile Buying Department for
confirmation regarding this.
 Labels must be made of suitable material capable to withstand several
washings corresponding to the lifetime of the product.
 Labels must be fastened securely and be legible both in relation to text
and symbols during the useful life of the product
 Labels must be fastened so they can be seen or easily found by
consumers at the point of sale
 None of the symbols or the text on the label must be covered up.
 In case of sale on the Internet, fibre content must be shown.
 Adult sizes: For all upper parts + skirts care label must be placed in left
side seam 10 cm up from bottom hem. For pants care label must be
placed at left side seam, if no side seam at back seam, 10 cm down
from waistband.
 Kids sizes: see logo-label manual for instructions.

29
30
PACKING AND FOLDING INSTRUCTIONS
In the following section all folding and packing instructions are included. If
any further questions regarding this subject, please contact the relevant
Purchase Department within XYZ.

For all orders on hanger please make sure to place them in the
carton like the illustration:

IMPORTANT:

 If alarms are required, this will be indicated at order sheet for the
individual order.
 By mounting of alarm tags, kindly make sure that the alarm tag is
attached to a seam, so that the garment fabric is not damaged.
 Hangers are to be fastened by a strong strap at each end of carton

31
MENS WEAR
Men’s pants w. hanger
/ Mens suit Pants w. hanger / Men’s shorts w. hanger
(follow the same instructions)

Folding
Each assortment must be packed in 1 master polybag,
No use of single polybag or tissue paper.
All garment should be packed in the same direction.

Folding measurements:
Width: 24 cm
Length: 37 cm
Please attach size tape 3 cm. from folding edge
Security tags are required for all orders with
retail price over Rs.1000 unless else is agreed.

32
Men’s pants no hanger, Back out no size tape and with size tape

The folding shown here are also the one to

be applied for Pants no hanger, Back out
with/no size tape plus fitting flasher

IMPORTANT! Kindly make sure that the pants

are folded NO MORE than the two times as
shown in the picture

Please make sure that the hangtag is

fastened to the Master Label at the back inside
the pants.

33
LADIES WEAR
Ladies BASIC pants no hanger, Back out no sizetape and with size tape

The folding shown here are also the one to be applied for Pants no hanger, Back out with/no size
tape plus fitting flasher

IMPORTANT! Kindly make sure that the pants are folded NO MORE than the two times as shown in
the picture

Please make sure that the hangtag is fastened to the Master Label at the back inside the pants.

34
Ladies pants with hanger, no fitting flasher

Please make sure that the hangtag is fastened

to the Master Label at the back inside the pants.

Ladies pants with hanger, no

fitting flasher, Big sizes

35
Ladies pants with pattern on the
back pocket, and Jackie pants

Kindly note that ALL Jackie pants must be on

hanger and folded as the picture.

36
TYPICAL MISTAKES - PACKING
Kindly go through the following points thoroughly.

BREACHES UNIT

 It is very important that you do not deliver breached units. A

breached unit is a unit that does not contain the same amount of
goods as the other delivered units on the same item no.

CORRECT DIMENSION INFORMATION

 It is very important to always be accurate regarding dimensions.

The dimensions are to be mentioned in the master data sheet
carefully make sure to fill in the Masterdata sheet correct.

PRODUCTS IN PLOYBAGS

 What happens if we change the master data number:

If we change the amount of Our automatic system cannot Consequences: our store will
goods in colli. differentiate between boxes not receive correct amount of
with different colli size, but goods
with same item number.

If you deliver in new colli Our automatic system cannot Consequences: the system
dimension. differentiate between different cannot find the correct way to
volumes of cartons, on the store goods, or to pack the
same item no. goods.

 It is very important that products packed in polybags are not to

exceed the limit of 3 litres

THE SHIPPING CARTON IS SLIGHTLY TOO BIG TO BE MEDIUM

Example: We received some jackets in a carton with the dimensions

630*470*200 mm (L*W*H). The width of the carton is in this example
defined by the width of the hanger. This carton is 3 cm too long and 5 cm
too wide and is therefore classified as a large carton. (Large cartons are
approximately 2 times more expensive to handle in our warehouse than
medium cartons)

Solution: If the jackets had been folded on the middle, the carton would
have been the following size 470*400*400 mm, and it would now be

37
classified as medium. (The longest side is now equal to the side which was
earlier the width because the jackets are now folded)

OUTER PACKAGING / RECEIVING UNIT

 Please note our requirements regarding outer packaging/receiving

unit:
 Should only be used for small export units to reduce handling time
and shipping cost
 Should only be used when the number of export units / shipping
units exceeds 5
 Only one item number per outer carton
 Only one level of outer packaging is acceptable
 Kindly see the packing instructions for further information.

Example: We receive 10 t-shirts in a plastic bag with the dimensions

400*300*200 mm (L*W*H). This product has a volume of 24 litres, and will
therefore reduce the amount of articles in our shop totes, and increase
the handling time in the warehouse and our stores.

Consequence: We have to handle the product as small even though the

measurement indicates that it is medium.

Solution: This type of products should be delivered in a medium carton

instead of a plastic bag.

38
ANATOMY OF MEN’S TROUSERS
It is the duty of supplier manager to explain the below written
information about trouser to factory men.
Essentially all dress trousers are alike. They have split lined waistband, fly
front, back and front pockets and they are lined to the knee.
Most common are the flat front trousers with French fly, slanted front
pockets and single- or double- welted back pocket. This design is
widespread and popular, due to its clean silhouette, easily accessible front
pockets and triple closure front which keeps the stress off the zipper and
easy workmanship.
Waistband of dress pants is always lined. The prevailing style is clean
finish, which implies as less visible stitch lines as possible. Back pockets
on dress trousers are always set in pockets as patch pockets are never
used for dress pants. Most common style is buttoned through double
welted back pocket, which comes with or without a tab. Second most
common style is single welted back pocket. And rarely seen but worth
mentioning is a slashed pocket with a flap.
Second popular style is with on-seam side pockets and welted back pocket
with a tab. The main difference from previous style, is on the waistband.
Trousers don't have extended waistband tab, that is why fly shield closure
is on the level of waistband to give maximum support possible for centre
front.
Trousers with pleated front have lost their popularity. Since most of
the suits are slim cut, pleated trousers are seldom sold. Pleats can be
seen mostly on tuxedo pants, because traditionally they are worn on
natural waist. The concept of pleated trousers has changed over the
years. Pleats were originally added to obtain comfortable width for wearer
and accentuate creases. These days some brands are adding pleats to
slim fit low rise pants, which makes wearers hips look wider and pleats
pull open.
"The details of the cut of a pair of trousers vary from season to season,
and in addition the basic cut changes about every ten years”. Pants come
flat front (also called plain front) or with single-, double- or triple pleat.
Style and silhouette is determined mostly by the cut of the suit and
wearer's body type. “If the pant is sold as a part of a nested suit, then the
cut of trousers relates to proportion and silhouette of the garment”.
Silhouette of pleated trousers is wider, whereas flat front trousers can be
cut close to the body.

39
 Figure 2. Trouser fronts
Flat front trousers are considered more modern, but pleats will be a touch
more forgiving should your waistline expand over time.” For large men,
with thick thighs and wider waist, pleated trousers are considered more
flattering, while fit body type is believed to look good in all trouser
silhouettes. For better understanding of design and construction elements
of trousers, it is important to give an overview of main components of
men's pants. Figure 2 shows outer details of men's trousers, the
illustration is explained in table 1.

40
41
N Detail Characteristics
o
1 2 3
1 Flat When silhouettes started to slim down and waistlines
got lower, plain front trousers became the most
front popular pant style offered in retail. Historically, pants
were never worn on hip, even when they were cut slim.
Influence of the trend that started in 1990s, which
implied wearing trousers on hipline rather than waist,
also impacted the steady design of men's dress attire.
Therefore it is believed that flat front is more usual for
modern slim-line suits.
Trousers waistline is usually lowered from natural
waistline and lacks of shaping elements on the waist
(darts or folds). The term flat front is not used for
active wear or jeans. It is only used for describing
dress pants.
2 Pleate Pleats are folds in the fabric folded at the waistline
below the waistband. Trousers with pleats must be
d front worn on the waist, not the hips, or the pleats will pull
open. For the same reason, they need to be fuller in
the thigh, with legs that taper to a narrower ankle,
which makes them generally inappropriate for
contemporary slim-cut suits.
Nowadays, if trousers have pleats, then usually, it is
one pleat to each leg. However two and three pleats on
each side is also considered as a norm, although in
case of three pleats, it would be considered very
fashion- forward and flamboyant, thus not very
suitable for business attire.
Forward pleated pants can be single-, double- or triple
pleated. Forward pleats are considered as an obsolete
style, and are associated with English cut, since they
preferred to wear forward pleats because they
considered this pleat style to fall more elegantly and
make crease sharper. These days, if one wishes to
have forward pleats, they have to be added to bespoke
trousers, because stores seldom sell this style.
Reverse pleat is the most common style these days for
pleated trousers. In this style pleats open toward side
seam. If any pleated styles can be found in retail, then
it is single reverse pleated trousers, which create near
flat-front effect. This style gives the wearer enough
ease for movement, while still looking relatively plain
like flat front pant.
“For a good fit pleated trousers should be worn on
natural waistline. Well-placed pleats, help pants drape
better and make legs look longer”.

42
3 Front "Fly is a fabric flap that hides the closure system of a
garment, the fly presents a smooth appearance and
fly conceals the buttons, zippers etc”.
"On menswear, the zipper laps left over right. The
zipper is sewn to a separate facing on the overlap and
to fly shield on the underlap. This combination of a
wide fly, a separate facing, and a fly shield produces a
stronger, more durable placket".
Most common fly style for dress trousers is the French
fly. It is a trousers closure with zip that has extended
tab waist and interior anchor button (sometimes also
called jigger button).
“The zipper is attached to an extended waistband,
which takes stress off the zipper and ensures that the
front lies flat”.
Fly can also be with buttons instead of a zipper on
centre front, but it's considered more of an old tailoring
style. Because it is known that many tailors are
avoiding any synthetic or metal fastenings in their
suits.
Most trousers in mass production are still with French
fly, and it is so for a reason. This placement of
fasteners give great support for zipper and front of
trousers, because it is the point on the garment which
is getting a lot of pressure from fluctuating waistline,
sitting and pulling, while this centre front is also always
on display.
These days, trousers rarely have buttons on the
waistband, especially ones with extended waistband
and are closed with hook-eye closure, to achieve
complete plain and seamless clean look.
4 Front Men’s trousers have two front pockets. Most common
style is slanted pocket, which is sometimes also called
pocket quarter-top- and French pocket. Nowadays, almost all
s the trousers in retail have slanted front pockets.
Set-in pockets- single or double welted, are also used.
Another common style is also on-seam pocket. On-
seam pocket is a type of pocket located directly on the
seam of the pants.
There is no general rule about keeping hands in
trouser pockets, however in Germany it is regarded as
bad manners, while English men can feel free keeping
their hands in (front) pockets without seeming rude
and inappropriate. However, bulkiness from keeping all
of man’s belongings in pockets is never flattering and
should be avoided.
5 Back Back pockets, sometimes called besom pockets, can
be on the back of both sides of the trousers, or only on
pocket wearer’s right.

43
 s Hind pockets may vary, but they are always slashed
(also called slit, jetted or set in) pockets. It means that
pocket is inserted on garment through a slash in shell
fabric.
Back pocket can be:
 single welt button through pocket;
 double-welted button through pocket (with a
working buttonhole or a button tab)
 welt pockets with a flap.

In retail, when slashed front and back pockets do not

have buttons or a tab for closure, the pockets are
stitch closed, so they will not stretch while trying in
store and to keep a neat and clean look.
6 Crease Crease runs along centre front grain line of the
trousers. It is not known how creases first appeared,
s however it happened in the first decade of 20th
century.
On flat front trousers crease is preferably pressed from
thigh line height (about crotch level) to hem, along
centre of the leg. This kind of pressing is widely used,
because thigh is flattening the crease, creating an
untidy look. Creases on back legs run along centre leg
usually until lower edge of the back pocket.
On pleated trousers the crease runs from waistband to
hem being on the edge of trouser pleat, fold will keep
crease sharp, and ease width in trousers will not
straighten the crease.
7 Back Trousers have one or two darts on back trouser.
Depending on wearer’s body shape, needed depth of a
darts dart is applied.
8 Back Back half of the trouser leg
trouser
s
9 Front Front half of the trouser leg. Front trouser is always
lined to the knee.
trouser
s
10 Plain Trouser bottom is finished with a plain hem or a cuff.
Plain bottoms are associated with flat slim cut pants,
hem however they can also be often seen on pleated
trousers of English suits.
General rule with plain hem bottoms is that they do not
have a visible stitch line on the outside, all the
hemming is done with blind-stitch. Seam allowance is
around 4,0 cm high to provide additional lenght if
alteration of pant lenght is needed.
Traditionally cuff-less trousers are worn with a slight

44
 break on front crease. Break is a point where the pants
leg hits the instep of the foot. A perfect unbroken
crease means that pants are too short.” The hem
should slope slightly downward toward the heel,
stopping about 2, 5 cm above the shoe welt” . Width of
trouser bottom should cover the shoelaces.
Some trousers can come with open bottom, it means
that pant legs do not have finishing (neither cuff nor
hem) and the length can be adjusted for wearer’s
needs.
11 Cuff The cuff, or turn up, as they are called in British
English, is a folded-back continuation of the pants leg.
“Cuffs, which go in and out of fashion for business
attire, generally range from 3,0 to 5,0 cm, remaining
the same depth around the leg of the pant but being
canted ever so slightly in the front to allow for what, in
an un cuffed pants leg, would be the break against the
shoe. The general rule for depth is: the taller the man,
the deeper the cuff”
12 Split The main difference between men’s dress- and casual
pants, or women pants, is that dress pants have lined
waistb split waistband. Seam allowance (also called outlet) on
and seat seam is uneven, it tapers toward fork seam. Upper
part of seat seam is adjustable due to the outlet, giving
the opportunity to change the pants on the back and
waistline if needed.
13 Belt Usually six loops are the norm, but some trousers also
have 7 loops it can be a designers choice, but also men
loops with wider waistline might need more belt loops to
keep the belt in place.
 Usual placement of belt loops is:
 Two in front, next to the crease;
 On hind leg detail next to side seam, or 1,0- 2,0
cm towards centre back
 Two on back, where it is more suitable for better
support of the belt;
 In case of 7 belt loops, 7th belt loop is sewn on
center back on the waistband split.

45
No Detail Characteristics
1 2 3
1 Waistb Waistband is lined to maintain its shape“ [2].
Waistband lining is usually made from bias pocketing
and fabric, often with a satin strip and pick stitching for
lining decoration and with a stiff woven non-fusible
interlining in between layers of shell fabric.
2 Anchor Anchor button is situated inside trousers on the
waistband. Its position depends on the fly shield. The
button button can be on the lower part of the curtain fold or
on same level with front button or hook.
When situated on the same level with waistband
closures the support is greater and tension of front
closure is divided more evenly, it may cause bulkiness
and uncomforted when wearing.
When anchor button is placed on the lining of the
waistband, the button is less protruding and front of
the trousers is sharper, only disadvantage of this
placement is the possibility that it is not as firmly
attached as on waistband.
3 Hook Anchor button is situated inside trousers on the
waistband. Its position depends on the fly shield. The
and button can be on the lower part of the curtain fold or
bar on same level with front button or hook.
closure
4 Zipper Zipper is attached to fly, it enables wearer to open and
close fly more easily and also is flatter and stronger
than buttons.
On men's dress trousers, most commonly a tonal coil
zipper with a plain puller is used.
5 Fly Fly shield has many functions, it prevents wearer from
direct contact with the zipper. Also balances pressure
shield/ evenly on the front providing smooth and clean front
fly with a help of an anchor button. Fly shield is
bearer sometimes also called a bearer, as a reference to its
anchor button and zipper bearing function.
6 Fork Fork lining adds comfort for wearer, with covering fork
seam allowances, prevents fraying between legs and,
lining provides clean finish to inside of the trousers.

7 Bottom Trousers bottom tape is used to prevent bottom from

fraying. Bottom tape is added to trouser bottoms when
kick bottoms are plain hemmed. Tape can run around
tape bottom opening or only be situated on hind trouser
bottom part.
8 Pocket Pocket bags are made from tightly woven cotton
fabric. The colour should complement or be tonal with
bags other parts of inside trousers, usually it is the same

46
 colour as waistband lining and fly shield lining.
9 Knee Trousers of good quality are lined down to the knee"
[1]. „The lining ensures durability and comfort“ [2].
lining Usually the most suitable lining is made from viscose,
it is smooth and skin friendly. To lower the cost, many
companies are using polyester for lining. Sometimes
acetate is used, but it is least desirable, because of its
low strength.

47