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SAFE HOME WIRING
PROJECTS
Rex Cauldwell

T '

_The Taunton Press

COVER PHOTO: Susan Kahn

Taunton
BOOKS & VIDEOS

for fellow enthusiasts

© 1997 by Rex Cauldwell

All rights reserved.

First printing: 1997

Printed in the United States of America

A Fine Homebuilding Book

Fine Homebuilding® is a trademark of The Taunton Press, Inc.,

registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.

The Taunton Press, Inc., 63 South Main Street, PO Box 5506,

Newtown, CT 06470-5506
e-mail: [email protected]

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Cauldwell, Rex
Safe home wiring projects / Rex Cauldwell.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 1-561 58-164-X
1. Electric wiring. Interior. I. Title.
TK3285.C37 1997 97-5789
621.319'24 —dc21 CIP
 To my wife, Diana, who kept the household together while I wrote.
And without the proficient and dexterous help of my granddaughter,
Katy, who was—and still is—demanding to draw happy faces on the
computer (along with hunting Winnie the Pooh on the Internet), and
without the constant help from my two cats. Little Crazy Horse and
Peaches, who were always lying on the keyboard and monitor, I could
have finished this book much faster.

And, finally, to my father, who taught me the hard-work ethic, and my

late Uncle Bud, who taught me the trades. My Uncle Bud will always
remain alive through my memories. Though the work was hard, all I
remember now are the good times we had. Goodbye dear Uncle.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

As I mentioned in my first book, Wiring a A work of this kind is very technical, and
House, no one person creates a book. It it is very easy for errors to slip by. In addi¬
is the accumulation of many hands and tion, the way houses are wired on the
minds. At The Taunton Press, I would like East Coast may not be the same on the
to thank Julie Trelstad, who led me West Coast. I would like to thank the
through the creation process, and Tom technical readers who helped minimize
McKenna, who led me through the edit¬ these problems: Bill Goode, the toughest
ing process. I cannot imagine two better electrical inspector that Roanoke County,
people to work with—they made the Virginia, ever had; April Elkin, of Local
book enjoyable. #637, Roanoke, Virginia; and Redwood
Kardon, building inspector for the city of
Oakland, California.
CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 1

1 WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY 2

2 INSPECTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

3 RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 26

4 INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 50

5 OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 68

6 CEILING FANS 82

7 BATHROOM FANS 94

8 HOME-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 104

9 SPECIAL INSTALLATIONS 126

GLOSSARY 146

INDEX . 149
INTRODUCTION

I am a third-generation electrician. I've plete list of the basic tools needed for
been in the trades since I was a kid, help¬ most any electrical job. You'll see com¬
ing my father and uncle, who had me mon-sense approaches to both simple
doing all sorts of jobs, from fetching installations—such as switches and recep¬
lunch, to carrying equipment, to snaking tacles—and complicated installations—
wires through damp, cobweb-infested such as wiring appliances. And you'll
crawlspaces. It was dirty, hard work, and I learn some of the most common mis¬
learned a lot from my father and uncle. takes that many electricians—including
Today I am a master electrician and own myself—have made so that you don't
my own company. It wasn't what my repeat them.
father wanted me to do; He sent me to
college so that I'd have a way out of the Safety is paramount when working with
trades. But it didn't work. I have always electricity. There's an old saying in the
loved my job, and like my uncle told me trades: "There are old electricians, and
years ago, "It's not boring." there are foolish electricians, but there
are no old, foolish electricians." The
As a professional electrician, service calls majority of electrical accidents and mal¬
are my business. You might expect most functions result from carelessness and
of my calls to be for emergencies or for lack of knowledge, which is why I have
complicated situations. Far from it. Most included numerous safety tips and warn¬
of my service calls have been for simple ings throughout the book.
electrical installations and repairs that
most anyone could handle if they only With what you learn here, you should be
knew how to do the job properly. able to do most of the projects in this
book safely and confidently. However,
But most homeowners and do-it-your¬ some projects are more complicated
selfers don't have the knowledge to (meaning dangerous) than others and so
do electrical work. Well, Safe Home will require more experience and knowl¬
Wiring Projects gives you the practical edge than you may have. One safety rule
know-how to do most any home electri¬ that I can't stress enough is that if you
cal job safely and correctly. don't feel comfortable doing a job,
call a professional.
In this book, you'll 4earn how to perform
a visual inspection of the entire electrical
system in your home. You'll get a com¬
 1
WORKING
WITH ELECTRICITY
When working with electricity, knowl¬ ELEMENTS
edge is the key to safety—ignorance OF ELECTRICITY
literally hurts. I learned this the hard way. Electricity is defined as the organized
As a young boy, I was helping my uncle flow of electrons along a conductor. It
wire an old house. When I touched a is generated through heat, pressure,
wire that I should not have—a hot one— friction, light, chemical action, or
I received quite a jolt. The pain and sur¬ magnetism. The four elements of
prise of this first electrical shock are still electricity are voltage, current, power,
clearly imprinted in my memory—not a and resistance.
very pleasant introduction to electricity.
The easiest way to explain these elements
I have now been working as an electri¬ is to describe how electricity flows. And
cian for more than 20 years and have the simplest way to do that is to visualize
never been seriously injured. That's not a wire like a garden hose. When a hose
to say I haven't made painful mistakes. faucet is turned on, its flowing water
I have. But I haven't repeated the pushes on water already in the hose,
mistakes—I learned from them—and which pushes water out the other end.
I've written this book to help homeown¬ Electricity works the same way. Electrons
ers learn from them as well. are generated and flow into a wire,
which knock electrons out the other end.
Many homeowners are afraid to work
with electricity because of the dangers The pressure that gets electricity flowing
involved. Their fears are justifiable, con¬ is called voltage, and it's provided by a
sidering that electricity can maim or even power source, such as a battery or gener¬
kill. However, this fear prevents folks ator. The flow of electrons along the wire
from installing receptacles, switches, and is called current, of which there are two
fixtures themselves, all relatively simple types: direct current and alternating cur¬
jobs. To accomplish these jobs, you need rent (see the Glossary on p. 146). The
only a basic knowledge of electricity and higher the voltage, the greater the cur-
a few simple tools.

2
rent. Both voltage and current provide All these formulas are not just meant to
power, which is the product of the volt¬ confuse you: They have practical applica¬
age and current. tions. For example, baseboard heaters are
rated around 250 watts per foot. Let's say
If you were to decrease the diameter of you bought a 10-ft. unit (2,500 watts).
a garden hose, less water would be able You know that the unit requires 240
to pass through it. As with a hose, if you volts, and you want to know how much
were to decrease the diameter of a current it will pull. Knowing the amount
wire, less current could flow through it, of current flow a specific load will pull is
so less electricity would reach the load. important because it will aid you in pick¬
This limiting factor is called resistance—it ing the correct size wire and breaker for
acts like rocks in a river, trying to hold the circuit.
water back (the smaller the wire, the
greater the resistance). You know the power and the voltage. To
find the current in the formula P = El,
Some useful formulas simply divide the power by the voltage
There are a few formulas that you'll find (I = P/E). Plug in the numbers; 2,500
very useful when working with electricity, watts -r 240 volts = 10.42 amps. This is
and they are all interrelated. Voltage, cur¬ the current the baseboard heater will pull
rent, and resistance can be determined when 240 volts is applied to it.
using Ohm's law, a principle of electricity
that states that the voltage is equal to TOOLS FOR WORKING
the current multiplied by the resistance WITH ELECTRICITY
(E = IR, where E is the voltage, 1 is the To work with electricity safely, you not
current, and R is the resistance). only need a basic knowledge of the sub¬
ject, but you also need the right tools for
This formula makes it easy to determine the job. Using the right tool makes any
the value of one element if you know the job easier, but more important, it makes
value of the other two. For instance, if the job safer.
you know the resistance and the current,
simply multiply the two units to find the I admit it. I'm a tool junkie. When it
voltage. If you know the voltage and the comes to tools, 1 believe quality is every¬
resistance, calculate the current using thing, and I buy only the best tools
the formula I = E/R. If you know the available because they stand up to the
current and the voltage, calculate the rigorous workouts that 1 put them
resistance using the formula R = E/I. through. When you're shopping for tools,
do some research. Buy the tool that is
To calculate the power, you need to use best suited to your needs and budget—
different formulas. If you know the cur¬ don't just buy the cheapest one on the
rent and voltage, simply multiply them shelf. You'll end up paying more in the
(P = IE, where P is the power). If you long run because it won't last as long
know only the current and resistance, use and won't work as well as a better-
the formula P = I^R. If you know the volt¬ quality version.
age and resistance, use the formula
P = E^/R to calculate the power.

WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY

 Many of the tools discussed in this sec¬
tion will be useful to any homeowner,
and not necessarily just for electrical
work. What tools you actually purchase
will depend on your experience and on
what kind of work you plan on doing.

Meters
A multimeter should be used as if your
life depends on it—for it does. Not only
can a multimeter measure voltage,
current, and resistance, but it can also
be used to check continuity, which veri¬
fies that two points on a circuit are
electrically connected.

I have two digital multimeters (one is a

backup), and I won't go on a service call
without them. I use the Fluke model 25
(see the top photo at left) most often
because it is autoranging (it gives me
readings without my having to preset any
dials). I use it for measuring voltage and
resistance and for checking continuity.
For checking current, though, I use my
backup meter, the Fluke model 30, which
is a clamp-on meter that allows me to
check current without having to open the
circuit. To do this, I simply clamp the two
jaws around the current-carrying wire. I
can check water heaters and electric
baseboard heaters to verify how much
current they're pulling without getting
A multimeter is a must-have tool for anyone who works with
near a bare wire. The model 30 also mea¬
electricity. It measures voltage, current, and resistance and can be
used to check continuity. sures voltage and resistance and can be
used as a continuity checker. It is my
backup meter because it is not autorang¬
Blunt-nosed side-cutting ing. Both models are accurate and
pliers are great for cutting durable (I've dropped mine several times,
and pulling wire.
and they still work).

A plug-in receptacle checker is a handy

gadget for immediate analysis of the
receptacle wiring. It will not only let you
know if the receptacle is wired correctly,
but it will also diagnose any problems
with the wiring. Units for checking
ground-fault circuit interrupters, called
GFCIs (see the Glossary on p. 146), have

4 CHAPTER ONE
Long-nosed pliers are used primarily for bending Diagonal-cutting pliers can cut close where blunt-
wire into loops for insertion around screw terminals. nosed pliers can't fit.

a push button that simulates a ground

fault on the branch circuit to see if the
GFCI will trip as it should.

Hand tools
A good set of hand tools is also necessary
to complete any electrical job. For safety,
I recommend that you buy tools with
insulated handles.

At the absolute minimum, you'll need the

following; side-cutting pliers with a blunt
end for cutting and pulling wire (see the
bottom photo on the facing page); long-
nosed pliers for bending wire ends (see
the left photo above); diagonal cutters
for close-in cutting (see the right photo Using wire strippers to remove insulation from wire is faster and
above); wire strippers (see the middle safer than using a knife.
photo at right); end-cutting pliers for cut¬
ting wire and for pulling staples (see the
End-cutting pliers can be
bottom photo at right); various short,
used for more than cutting
long, fat, skinny, Phillips, and straight- wire. They also work well
bladed screwdrivers; a sharp utility knife for removing staples.
(it might be a good idea to buy a VA-in.
and yi6-in. nut driver); and some good
electrical tape—I prefer 3M Super 88 (it's
thick and stays put). Wood and masonry
chisels, a good hammer, flat-bladed pry
bars, big and small crow bars, and a
hacksaw are also good to have around.
To keep all these hand tools organized,
buy a tool pouch or tool bucket.

WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY 5

 An extension ladder with If you need to buy a ladder, make sure it
swivel feet provides solid
is nonconductive (I prefer fiberglass).
support on pavement, but
Look for a type 1 A, which means heavy
the feet can also be driven
into the ground to anchor duty. When buying an extension ladder,
the ladder on a soft surface. be sure to get one that has swivel feet on
the bottom. These feet provide good sup¬
port on pavement, and they also cut into
the ground to keep the ladder bottom
from kicking out on soil (see the top
photo at left).

A reciprocating saw is one It's also handy to have a step stool

of the most versatile of the around. It is great when you need to get
electrician's tools. It can cut just a few more inches of height. My step
through wood and nails
stool is a Rubbermaid that is about 18 in.
with no problems.
tall. It's also great for sitting on while I
wire receptacles.

Power tools
Along with these assorted hand tools,
a few power tools will be helpful for
doing electrical work. For cutting, I rec¬
ommend a reciprocating saw. A
reciprocating saw will cut through any¬
thing—wood, nails, pipe, you name it
(see the middle photo at left). Blades are
available for cutting both metal and
wood. Bimetal blades are better because
they are fairly flexible—they give a bit
without breaking. But be aware that
bimetal blades vibrate and don't cut very
straight. If you need to make straight
cuts, choose extra-thick blades, which do
not flex. For plugging in your power
tools, buy only heavy-duty extension
cords (14 gauge or heavier, with ground).
Avoid the cheap, light-duty cords; they
will rob your tool of valuable power.

Another handy cutting tool is a 3-in.

cordless circular saw (see the bottom
photo at left). I own a Makita brand, and
I use it to cut through wallboard and
sheathing. Its blade is extremely thin,
which makes for clean cutting, and the
blade height is easily adjusted. The saw is
small and lightweight, so it's easy to cut

A 3-in. cordless circular saw is great for cutting through wallboard. straight lines, even overhead.
This Makita model has an adjustable blade height, and its blade
makes a razor-thin, clean cut.

6 CHAPTER ONE
 A heavy-duty right-angle drill equipped with an
auger bit can cut through any wood very fast. The
tool is expensive and dangerous to use because of its
A cordless drill has enough power to cut most any high torque, so the inexperienced shouldn't try one.
size hole through any 2x member.

For drilling, buy a good-quality ys-in. drill. Drill bits

I prefer a cordless drill because it's much Drilling holes in studs, joists, and beams

safer to use and is highly portable (see are common tasks for the electrician. The

the left photo above). The tool is pow¬ most efficient bit for drilling small holes is

ered by a low-voltage battery, so if it the spade bit—it can go through most

malfunctions, you won't get electro¬ anything. I've found that the bits with

cuted. It also has less torque than a the two end protrusions cut faster than

corded drill, so if the bit jams in the the standard, flat-bladed variety. Spade

wood, it won't break your wrist, plus you bits are typically available with cutting

don't have to haul around an extension diameters of Va in. to 1 Vz in. (see the top

cord. You'll especially appreciate it when left photo on p. 8).

you work on a ladder or in a tight area

Although spade bits will be sufficient
like a crawlspace.
for most drilling, there may be times

For heavy-duty drilling, a right-angle when you need to open a large hole to

drill can't be beat (see the right photo pass a number of cables through. You

above). A right-angle drill allows you can drill a couple of holes and cut out a

to work in tight locations and gives circle (connecting the dots) with a recip¬

tremendous power and torque, which rocating saw, but a more efficient way to

make it dangerous to use. It's also very open a large hole is to use a carbide-

expensive, so it's more appropriate for tipped hole saw. A hole saw will cut right
through nails and will open a nice, clean
an experienced user.

WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY 7

 hole. Carbide-tipped hole saws are avail¬
able in cutting diameters from ^4 in. to 6
in. (see the right photo at left).

For drilling through thick beams or logs,

or for drilling through several studs at
once, I prefer to use an auger bit. This bit
is long and spiraled and must be used
with a right-angle drill because of the
torque needed to drill deep. A trick to
keep the drill bit from getting stuck in
deep holes is to soap the flat spiraled

A spade bit with end pro¬ edges that come in contact with the
trusions cuts faster than
the flat-bladed type.
A carbide-tipped hole saw makes
quick work of opening large holes.

Safety Rules

When it comes to electricity, you • Protect your eyes. Get safety • Protect your feet, too. Drywall,
can’t be too safe. All it takes is a glasses that are comfortable and main-panel covers, and other
single, one-second mistake to kill scratch and fog resistant—and heavy objects can easily break
or maim you. Here are some don’t forget to wear them (see your toes. I recommend wearing
safety rules that will help you the photo below). Snipped wire steel-toed workboots (if you
stay healthy. ends and sparks can put out an don’t like boots, you can buy
eye or scratch it. And be sure to steel-toed running shoes).
• First and foremost, remember wear the glasses while cutting
to turn off the power in the area or drilling, especially overhead, • Be sure to use the right tool for
in which you are working and use where debris is falling ail around the intended Job. Use screw¬
a multimeter to verify that it’s off. your head. drivers as screwdrivers, not as
pry bars or chisels. Using the
right tool will make a difficult job
go fast and easy; the wrong tool
will make an easy job long, diffi¬
cult, and dangerous.

• When working with ladders,

always be aware of power lines
nearby, and never use aluminum
ladders, unless you have a death
wish. Use only nonconductive,
heavy-duty ladders.

• Electrical shock is always a

possibility when working around
Safety glasses are a must when working around electricity and electricity. Even though you
wiring. Make sure they’re comfortable so that you’ll wear them. know that you’ve shut off power
to the room you are working in.

S CHAPTER ONE
 A stepped drill bit cuts
wood. Auger bits are available in differ¬
through metal easily. The
ent diameters (Va in. to 1 Vz in.) and
farther the bit is pushed
lengths (6 in., 7% in., 7^4 in., and 18 in.). into the metal, the larger
the hole it will cut.
For drilling holes in main panel boxes (the
metal boxes that hold the circuit break¬
ers), I use a stepped drill bit (it's really a
bit shaped like a cone). One stepped drill
bit can open a hole from Vz in. to over
1 in. The farther you push the bit in, the
wider the hole becomes (see the photo
at right).

tools, make sure they are pow¬ • If you need to locate a stud to
you may have forgotten to shut
ered from a GFCI or plugged into mount a switch or receptacle
off power to the room next door
a GFCI-protected extension cord. box, don’t cut blindly into the
or upstairs. In this situation, if
wall. Instead, cut a small section
you cut into a wall blindly, you
• Cutting into walls Is always out so you can either see or feel
could easily contact a hot wire.
dangerous—you never know into the cavity. Another option is
To add an extra measure of safe¬
what’s under the surface. To be to drill a small hole, insert a bent
ty, make a habit of wearing rub¬
safe, always cut to the depth of wire into it, and swing the wire in
ber gloves and shoes with rubber
the finished wallboard and no far¬ a circle to locate the studs.
soles to insulate yourself from
the current In case you acciden¬ ther. For soft walls such as dry-
wall you can use a utility knife or • Never drill anything while the
tally touch a hot wire. I also rec¬
a drywall knife wrapped with piece is not supported securely.
ommend that you use insulated
electrical tape. I like to use my One time I thought I could drill
hand and power tools (or cord¬
3-in. cordless circular saw for through a small piece of metal
less tools).
this job because I can easily ad¬ while I was holding it. The bit
just It to the correct depth, and it caught the metal, and the metal
• If you’re working in a damp
makes a clean cut. If you use a turned in a circle with the bit,
area, lay down a dry piece of ply¬
jigsaw or reciprocating saw to gouging out a very large and
wood to stand on. The plywood
cut through a wall, adjust or tilt deep hole under my thumbnail.
will insulate you from ground and
the blade to cut only the wall- Please learn from my mistakes;
will lessen or eliminate the shock
board thickness. Never cut deep don’t repeat them.
if you cut or touch a hot wire.
and blind—you’ll wind up cutting
• Use cordless tools as much as wires and plumbing.
possible when working outside,
in damp areas, or on a ladder.
Because cordless tools are pow¬
ered by a low-voltage battery,
they can’t electrocute you if they
malfunction. If you do use corded

WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY 9

 2
INSPECTING THE
ELECTS rCA •; SYSTEM

Like any mechanical system in your or upgraded. You may not be able to fix
home, such as plumbing, heating, and air every problem yourself, but you'll know
conditioning, the electrical system will when to call a qualified electrician to help
eventually become outdated. Parts will before any damage or accidents occur.
wear down and malfunction or become (Please note that the East and West
damaged over the years. With the electri¬ coasts have different code enforcement
cal system, however, malfunctioning or requirements.)
damaged parts can be very dangerous.
The electrical system should be inspected
I can recall one service call I made during every couple of years. An electrical
which the homeowner complained of inspection should also be performed on a
receiving shocks from the gutters and house you're planning to buy. The inspec¬
downspouts. Upon close inspection, I tion begins with the service entrance,
found a worn spot on the overhead util¬ then moves on to the grounding system
ity cable (the one that brings in power and the in-house wiring.
from the utility pole) that was putting
voltage directly into the gutters. This was INSPECTING THE
a very dangerous situation indeed. This SERVICE ENTRANCE
homeowner was lucky. He called a pro, The purpose of the service entrance is to
who knew what to look for and who bring power into the house. It starts at
could correct the problem. the utility transformer and terminates at
the main panel.
The time to find and correct problems in
the electrical system is before they A residence has either an aerial or buried
become hazardous. You don't need to be service entrance. In an aerial service
an electrician to spot problem areas. entrance, the cable installed by the utility
Many times just a visual inspection will swings from the utility transformer to the
tell you something is wrong. The trick is house (see the top drawing on the facing
knowing what to look for. page). The cable is spliced to the service-
entrance (SE) cable on the side of the
In this chapter you will learn how to per¬ house, which has been installed by an
form an inspection of your home electrician (on the West Coast, the cable
electrical system to see if there are any is run through conduit). The SE cable is
potential safety hazards. With what you attached to the meter base, which is con¬
learn here, you should be able to tell nected to the main panel. The utility
what parts need to be repaired, replaced.

10
Buried Service Entrance

The utility company installs the transformer close to the building site and runs the
cables underground and connects them to the meter base.

IMSPECTIi^iG THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEH^ 11

 company's responsibility ends and the worn or coming apart, exposing the wires
homeowner's begins at the splice to inside, it needs to be replaced (see the
the SE cable. photo below left).

In a buried service entrance, the utility Since replacement requires coordination

company runs buried wires from a trans¬ with the utility company and the local
former to the residence and connects inspection department, this job is
them directly to the meter base, which best done by a professional electrician.
has already been installed by an electri¬ I've seen SE cable so worn that its insula¬
cian (see the bottom drawing on p. 11). tion was shredded or missing for its
The utility company's responsibility ends entire length.
and the homeowner's begins at the
meter base. (On the West Coast, the Another common problem with SE cable
wires are run through conduit supplied strapped to the house is that the straps
by the homeowner.) work loose over time. If any straps have
come loose, tighten or replace them—a
If you have an aerial service entrance, job any homeowner can do.
begin your inspection at the SE cable. If
you have a buried service entrance, begin If the SE cable is run in conduit from the
the inspection at the meter base. splice to the meter base, you won't be
able to inspect the cable. In this instance,
SE cable begin your inspection at the meter base.
The SE cable sometimes will be strapped
to the side of the house. Having the SE Meter base
cable exposed in this manner allows the The inside of the meter base can only be
sun to shine on the cable continually. inspected by the utility company. If an
Over time, the sun's ultraviolet rays will electrician thinks the meter base or the
degrade the insulation on the cable. meter is bad, he should call the utility
company, which will come out and open
Visually inspect the cable from top to the meter base to check it.
The service-entrance cable
should be in good condi¬ bottom (being careful not to hit any
tion, like the one in the top overhead lines with your ladder). If you An aerial service entrance typically creates
of this photo. If the cable is see any spots where the insulation is more problems for a meter base than a
worn and looks like the one
buried service entrance. The enemy of
on the bottom, it needs to
any meter base is water (see the sidebar
be replaced.
on the facing page). The SE cable enters
the meter base at the top (in an aerial
service) through a watertight hub.
"Watertight" is actually a misnomer in
this case because water almost always
seeps in if the electrician who hooked up
the system did not provide an additional
seal with silicone rubber.

Water corrodes the aluminum terminals

within the meter base, and eventually,
the result will be a bad connection (it also
destroys the SE cable over time). If your

12 CHAPTER TWO
 Meter Base with Water Damage

This meter base was destroyed by water, which Someone even tried to use electrical tape to stop
wicked down the service-entrance cable and en¬ the entrance of water (right). Eventually, the mois¬
tered the base through the alleged watertight hub ture destroyed the contacts inside the meter base
on top. Most experienced electricians protect (left). If your meter base looks like this, call a good
against this problem by adding an additional sili¬ licensed electrician immediately.
con seal. This hub got its silicon a little too late.

lights flicker—get brighter, then dim— Main panel

the problem could be a bad connection Normally located inside the house and

at the meter base. close to the meter base, the main panel is
the heart of the electrical system. All
The only thing a homeowner can check wiring begins here and branches out to
on the meter base is the watertight hub feed the circuits. It's important that every¬

on the top and the general physical con¬ one in the house knows where the main

dition of the meter base. If you think it panel is because it is where power can be
looks damaged by water or anything else, cut off to the whole house should a
call a professional electrician. major electrical problem arise, such as a
smoking appliance.

INSPECTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 13

A main panel with circuit the current rating of the wire. Fuses are
breakers is the modern made to protect to a certain amperage.
method of providing
For instance, a 1 5-amp fuse is used to
overcurrent protection
protect a circuit wired with 14-gauge
in a home.
wire (for more on wire gauge, see the
sidebar on the facing page), and a 20-
amp fuse is used to protect a circuit
wired with 12-gauge wire. Overfusing
occurs when a fuse is replaced with one
of a larger value: a 15-amp fuse protect¬
If your home is protected ing 14-gauge wire is replaced with a
by a fuse panel similar to 30-amp fuse. This can allow excessive
this one, the electrical current on the circuit, which will overheat
system probably needs to the wire, melt Its insulation, and short the
be upgraded.
wires together.

For example, a 30-amp load will send a

massive amount of current through both
the black and white wires of a simple
120-volt circuit. The 14-gauge wires, only
meant to carry a maximum of 15 amps,
will begin to overheat. The insulation
around the wires will degrade, usually
starting at a severe bend of the wire, to a
point where the wires are exposed. Once
exposed, the wires could touch each
other and short-circuit, which could result
in a fire if the overcurrent protection is
not working properly.

Overfusing was easy to do with older

The main panel holds either fuses or cir¬ panels because all plug fuses had the
cuit breakers (officially called overcurrent same size base threads, which allowed a
protection), which protect the house 30-amp fuse to be placed on a 15-amp
wiring system from overloads, short cir¬ circuit. But now plug fuses are designed
cuits, and ground faults (see the Glossary with different types of base threads so
on p. 146). If any one of these occurs, that they cannot be interchanged (see
the fuse will blow, or the circuit breaker the photo on the facing page).
will trip, cutting off power to the circuit
(see the photos above). To see if your panel is overfused, look at
the gauge number of the cable entering
Checking a fuse panel If you're buying the box and attached to the fuse screw.
a home or own one equipped with a fuse If you have a 30-amp fuse protecting
panel, the inspection is pretty simple. The 14-gauge wire, the circuit is overfused. If
first thing to check is overfusing, which is you can't read the writing on the cable,
one of the biggest problems with fuse have a qualified electrician verify the
panels. It occurs when a fuse has been gauge of the wire.
installed that allows a current higher than

14 CHAPTER TWO
 When referring to the gauge of a wire, the larger Small-diameter wires, such as 18 and 16 gauge,
the number, the smaller the wire diameter (see the are used for low-voltage appliances. Wires of
drawings below). For example, 12-gauge wire is 14 and 12 gauge are used throughout the house
larger than 18 gauge. for general-purpose circuits, such as receptacles
and lighting. Ten-gauge wire is commonly used
A large-diameter wire will have less resistance to for dedicated circuits, such as 240-volt electric
current and will therefore be able to carry more water heaters and dryers. Heavy-gauge, large-diam¬
current safely. Excessive current flowing through a eter wires are used for high-voltage applications,
small-diameter wire will overheat the wire, will dam¬ such as the service entrance.
age its insulation, and could start a fire.

Cross Sections of Copper Conductors

18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 1/0

oo
Low-voltage
oOO
120/240 volts for 240 volts for major
wires for lighting, appliance, appliance circuits, service
thermostats, and receptacle circuits entrance, and subfeeds
doorbells, and
small-appliance
wiring and
cords

As part of the inspection, remove each

plug fuse from its holder and check the
center contact of the holder. If it is
burned or damaged, it is no good and
should not be used (see the top photo on
p. 16). It's also a good indication that
your system needs upgrading.

You should also check the cartridge fuses

in the panel, which provide overcurrent
protection for the stove circuit and the
main house (see the bottom photo on
p. 16). Look for discoloration or melted Today's plug fuses, like the two on the right, are designed with
spots. Cartridge fuses, when overheated, different types of base threads for different amperages, so that they
will blacken and disintegrate. cannot be interchanged as the fuse on the left.

If the fuse looks okay, remove it and

check its continuity'to be sure that it is
still good. Also check the prongs that
provide the connections (once the fuse is

iHSPECTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEIfl 15

 On the left is a burned center contact in a plug-fuse holder. A center contact
should look like the one on the right. A burned contact means that some¬
thing unusual happened on this circuit and that it is no longer usable.

pulled out, the prongs will no longer be of the panel, from floor to ceiling. You
hot). If they are loose, bend them back also cannot have overhead plumbing
together to make the connection tighter. pipes near it (these same rules apply to
The fuse prongs should be a copper color circuit-breaker panels, too).
with no heat discoloration (wavy, dark
lines) and no burned and melted areas. In the old days, 60- or 100-amp fuse pan¬
els worked well because of the small
Check each cartridge fuse to be sure that loads placed on them, and for many
no one has placed aluminum foil around houses they still work. But most of
the fuse to keep it from blowing due to today's homes have significantly more
excessive current and check behind every appliances and circuits than yesterday's
plug fuse to be sure no one has inserted homes, and a 60- or 100-amp fuse panel
anything, like a penny, to bypass the is really not sufficient protection for the
Cartridge fuses, big and
plug-fuse elements. wiring. If either of these is what you have
small, protect circuits
requiring large amounts of in your home, and your panel frequently
current. Also check the physical condition of the blows fuses due to overloads. I'd suggest
panel. Feel the outside of the panel box hiring an electrician and upgrading your
to see if it is hot. Sometimes, internal electrical system.
loose connections generate so much heat
that they melt the box. If the box is hot, Checking a circuit-breaker panel
call an electrician. Circuit breakers are the modern method
of providing overcurrent protection in the
It's also important to make sure you have home. They are normally very depend¬
access to the main panel. Codes dictate able, but problems arise as the panel fills
that nothing can be stored 3 ft. in front

16 CHAPTER TWO
to capacity and as your house electrical It is a safety hazard to
expose the metal electrical
needs surpass the panel's size and rating.
buses of the main panel
For example, you can't have a house that
(center of photo). Cover
draws 200 amps being serviced by a them with plastic snap-in
panel that is only rated for 100. inserts available from
electrical supply stores.
The symptoms for this are pretty clear:
The main breaker kicks off (disconnects
the utility power from the panel) fre¬
quently under heavy loads, such as the
heating and cooling system, or individual
breakers frequently kick off. If you are
experiencing these problems, check the
panel. If it is full of breakers (no spaces
left to add any), the entire panel and ser¬
vice entrance may need to be upgraded,
which is expensive and requires a quali¬
fied electrician.

One way people get around upgrading to

get more circuits on the system is to
place more than one circuit on a breaker,
which is a no-no. A breaker should have
only one wire under each screw terminal.
If you see a breaker with more than one
wire under its terminal, it is probably their health. Low humming is okay, but if
overloaded and will kick off frequently. you hear very loud humming from an
The solution is to add another breaker for individual breaker, it means there's exces¬
the extra circuit. If you can't add another sive current on the line (perhaps a short
breaker because the panel is full, you to ground and the breaker isn't turning
probably need a larger panel. off as it should). In this case throw the
breaker off immediately and call a quali¬
One of the first things to check is that fied, licensed electrician.
you have access to the panel (circuit-
breaker panels follow the same During your inspection, look for water,
guidelines as fuse panels). Also check to especially if the main panel is in the base¬
make sure that the metal electrical bus ment (this is also a problem with fuse
(see the Glossary on p. 146) is not panels). If water gets into the main panel,
exposed (see the photo above). If a tab it will destroy everything in it, regardless
of the bus is showing, it should be cov¬ of whether it is a circuit-breaker panel or
ered with a plastic snap-in insert a fuse panel (see the sidebar on p. 18).
available at electrical supply stores. Water gets into a panel either from
excessive dampness or from drops actu¬
Part of the inspection involves listening to ally slipping down along the SE cable
the panel. The humming sound emitted from the meter base.
by the breakers is a good indication of
I

INSPECTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 17

 Look for water, especially if the main panel is in the basement. If water gets into the main panel—either
from excessive dampness or from drops slipping down along the SE cable from the meter base—it will
destroy everything in the panel box.

This main breaker was destroyed by moisture, which seeped into the breaker via the stranded neutral
coming from the meter base located above the main panel.

The tabs on this main-

panel bus are corroded
and burned from
moisture. The panel was
mounted directly over a
drop-in range, and
steam condensed on
the inside, causing the
aluminum to corrode
and the breakers to arc.

18 CHAPTER TWO
Look for corrosion and water droplets was located above a drop-in range.
around the breakers. Then listen for arc¬ Steam condensed on the inside of the
ing (it will sound like paper tearing) and panel and eventually corroded the alu¬
burning sounds. If you see moisture or minum and caused arcing, which
hear such sounds, the breaker is in immi¬ destroyed the tabs on the bus.
nent danger of destruction and needs to
be replaced immediately. If you don't INSPECTING THE
replace the breaker on time, the arcing GROUNDING SYSTEM
will destroy the tabs in the panel that the The grounding system connects all non¬
breakers slip into. If you find water in the current-carrying conductors in the
panel, the first step is to stop the water electrical system and then ties them to
from entering. Once done, take the cover the earth via the ground rods. It protects
off the panel and, using a large fan, blow the electrical system against ground
air into the panel to dry it out. If you're faults, induced voltages, and voltage
lucky, you will have caught the problem surges (see the Glossary on p. 146).
before it destroyed any breakers. When it comes to grounding, my rule of
thumb is this: If something can become
Just because your panel is not in the accidentally energized—through induc-
basement, don't think that water can't
get to it. I had one client whose panel

HdSPECTIHG THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEIWI 19

 tion or fault—ground it. The three things main panel and sometimes near the
to check are the ground rods, water meter base. If they are not buried, you'll
pipes, and receptacles. be able to see them. If they are buried,
try to trace the ground wire from the
Ground rods main panel to them.
The inspection for the grounding system
begins with the ground rods (see the The ground rod should be a Vs-in.-
drawing on p. 19). Although they are diameter (minimum) galvanized or cop¬
supposed to be buried, most are not, and per-clad rod, not some old rusty pipe. If
so they can be visually inspected. The this is what you have, replace it with the
ground rods are usually located near the code-approved ground rod.

You should have a minimum of two

ground rods (l prefer eight). However,
most houses have only one because this
part of the code is not strictly enforced in
many parts of the country. If you have
only one ground rod, and you are not
experiencing problems, leave it alone.
However, if you have only one, and you
have problems with voltage surges or
lightning strikes, you probably need to
add more ground rods to the system. You
may want to call a professional electrician
for this job.

The wire connecting the house electrical

system to the ground rods is a 4- or 6-
gauge bare copper ground wire (officially
called the grounding electrode conduc¬
tor). Make sure it is indeed connected
to the main panel. I can remember
many service calls during which home-
owners complained of lightning damage
to appliances. When I checked the
grounding system, I normally discovered
a loose or cut ground wire at or near the
ground rod.

Also make sure the clamp holding the

wire to the ground rod is the correct
If the ground wire is connected to the ground rod with a pipe clamp
(right in inset), it should be replaced with the acorn clamp, which is type, not a hose clamp, and that it is not
approved for direct burial (left in inset). A pipe clamp will corrode rusty (see the photos at left). A rusty
and build up a surface resistance that can develop damaging clamp or a poor connection increases the
voltage drops during lightning storms. resistance of the grounding system, mak¬
ing it less effective, allowing surges to
jump through appliances.

20 CHAPTER TWO
 -m rJrT3
L;r;.:i-,j6U:;:.;i;;:

Metal water pipes Bonding jumper

Main panel

Water
Clamps meter

Neutral/grounding
bus Bonding 7
jumper

Ground wire
(grounding
electrode
\-l^^4A\C(\AAy Water heater If the water pipes are metal, including
the feeder from the city connection,
run a bonding jumper around the
water meter.
. ■ Ground rod

The bonding jumper should be run around the water heater

because some heaters are made of nonconductive material,
The ground wire connects the metal water which will interrupt the ground circuit. The jumper also allows the
pipes to the grounding system. heater to be replaced without disrupting the ground connection.

Metal water pipes tricity went up the metal tank and into
If you have metal water pipes in your the metal water pipes that were screwed
house, make sure they are grounded. I into the tank. The homeowner was lucky:
made one service call where the owner The shock could have been fatal.
was getting shocked off the copper
plumbing lines, which were not If your water pipes are metal and
grounded. I found that a hot wire had ungrounded, run a 4-gauge bare copper
broken off a heating element and was ground wire from the main panel to the
touching the metal jacket of a water pipes (see the drawings above). A bond¬
heater that was not grounded. The elec¬ ing jumper should be placed from line to
line above the water heater (many munic-

INSPECTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 21

 Hot wire shorting to ungrounded appliance

Once the frame of the washing machine becomes energized, ground-fault current flows
from it to the concrete floor to the ground rods to the panel. The fault current is not high
enough to trip the oirouit breaker, so the frame remains energized. If the washer is on an
insulated floor, like wood, current will flow only when someone touohes the machine.

Hot wire shorting to grounded appliance

Once the frame of the washer is energized, ground-fault current flows back to the main panel
via the equipment grounding conduotor. No current flows to the ground rods; it stays on the
wiring and trips the oirouit breaker.

22 CHAPTER TWO
ipalities require the gas line to a gas becomes hot and can electrocute anyone
heater to be bonded as well). The bond¬ who touches it (see the drawings on the
ing junnper continues the ground facing page).
connection of the pipes even if the water
heater is nonmetallic or if it is discon¬ To rectify this problem, there are three
nected or replaced. If you have city water options: running a separate, bare ground
and all metal pipes out to the utility, a wire (the same gauge as the hot wire)
bonding jumper should be placed around from the main panel's grounding bus (see
the water meter for the same reasons. the Glossary on p. 146) to any appliance
that needs to be grounded; installing a
(Other items that should be grounded are new, grounded circuit where needed; or
garage-door rails, metal ductwork, and rewiring the house completely with mod¬
metal beams. Simply clamp a ground ern cable, which has an equipment
wire to these items and connect it to the grounding conductor—a bare copper
main panel.) wire commonly known as the ground
wire. Never connect a ground wire from
Receptacles the receptacle ground screw to metal
During your inspection, make sure all pipes in an attempt to obtain a ground
receptacles are grounded. In older through the plumbing. There is no assur¬
houses, you can see instantly whether ance that the plumbing is connected to
the receptacles are ungrounded: The earth and no guarantee that it will
receptacles have no grounding slots remain so if it is. If you have any doubt
(the grounding slot is the one above about what needs to be done or how to
or below the two narrower slots). do it, call a professional electrician.
Ungrounded receptacles are unaccept¬
able by today's standards. One other note: Just because you see
three-slotted receptacles in the house,
Most appliances need to be grounded as don't assume that they're grounded or
required by their manufacturer. And if grounded correctly. There are two ways
you think an adapter that allows a three¬ to be sure a receptacle is grounded: Test
pronged appliance to be plugged into a it with a plug-in tester or remove the
two-pronged receptacle will serve as a receptacle and check to see if the ground
ground, you're wrong. These adapters, wire does indeed exist.
what I call 2-3 cheater plugs, do not
ground appliances unless they are con¬ INSPECTING THE
nected to a metal conduit system. They IN-HOUSE WIRING
only allow you to plug the appliance in. In this part of the inspection, you should
(A grounded appliance has its metal be looking for faulty wiring of recepta¬
frame connected to the main panel's cles, damaged receptacles and switches,
grounding system via the grounding slot undersized wiring, and damaged wiring.
on the receptacle.) Not grounding an Because receptacles and switches are
appliance that requires it is a code viola¬ often wired on the same circuit, any
tion and a safety hazard. If the hot wire problems along one connection could
touches the appliance's metal frame, and spell trouble for everything else on the
the frame is not grounded, the frame circuit (for more on wiring receptacles
and switches, see Chapter 3).

INSPECTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 23

Faulty wiring you have ground-fault circuit interrupters
Faulty wiring is both an electrical problem (GFCIs) where they are now required: in
and a fire hazard. I've seen circuits arc the bathroom, along all kitchen counter-
and throw sparks on the carpet, I've seen tops, islands, and peninsulas, and
receptacles and switches burn, and I've outdoors.
also seen various appliances go up in
smoke. Sometimes it takes electrical test¬ Damaged receptacles
ing to determine faulty wiring; other and switches
times it's just simple observation. While you're checking the receptacles in
the home, be on the lookout for any that
The first thing to check is the number of are broken, as well as for switches that
receptacles in the house. A typical mis¬ are broken. Remove the cover plates and
take is wiring to minimum code, which check all of them. Any switches or recep¬
is an easy error to spot. When a house is tacles with cracked plastic housings or
wired to minimum code or less, there bare metal showing should be replaced
may not be enough receptacles, and immediately.
the ones you have might not be in the
right locations. If you have extension Undersized wiring
cords lying all over the place, you have A significant wiring problem is under¬
a problem. The solution here is to add sized wiring, where the wire gauge is too
receptacles and circuits where you need small for the loads being placed on it.
them, not just where minimum code Fourteen-gauge wire was—and is—fine
says to place them. If you don't know for small loads, but it's not really meant
how, call a professional electrician to to handle heavy appliance loads (more
do the job. than 1 5 amps). For heavy loads,
12-gauge wire should be used.
Apart from the visual inspection, you
need to verify whether the receptacles I had one customer complain that the
are wired correctly. Use a plug-in tester fuse would blow every time he plugged
and test every outlet in the house. Note if in his 1,500-watt portable heater. The
the hot and neutral wires have been circuit had 14-gauge wire and was pro¬
reversed and if the ground wires are con¬ tected with a 1 5-amp fuse. The heater
nected. I've seen new houses with the was pulling 12 to 14 amps, which would
ground wires cut off or not even tied to have been fine if it were the only appli¬
the receptacle. One inspector told me of ance on the circuit. But with the other
a new house he checked where he just loads being placed on the circuit, the
happened to measure the circuit voltage load exceeded the current rating of the
on one of the 120-volt receptacle outlets wire, causing the fuse to blow. The solu¬
in the living room. It read 240 volts— tion was to run a separate 12-gauge
anything plugged into that outlet would
have gone up in smoke. Also be sure that
circuit for the heater. If you have a prob¬ Although a home's wiring is 99% hidden,
lem with breakers kicking off or with there's one symptom that usually indi¬
fuses blowing frequently, the cause could cates a problem. If a breaker continues to
be undersized wiring. kick off while no load is on the circuit,
either a receptacle is bad or the wiring is.
In newer homes, a frequent mistake is To find the source of the problem, first
tying 14-gauge wire into 12-gauge inspect the receptacles on the circuit as
receptacle circuits. This is a common mis¬ well as all splices. Make sure that the
take made while wiring three-way switch wires are secure in their terminals and
circuits (for more on wiring switches, see that all splices are tight and not shorting
Chapter 3). The only way to verify this against something. If they are loose,
problem is to pull the three-way switch tighten them (make sure the power is
out of the wall and see if 14 gauge is off). If the screw terminals are broken,
written on any cable insulation going get a new receptacle.
into the switch box. If there is 14-gauge
wire attached to the switch, and the Many times the problem can be attrib¬
power to the switch is controlled by a uted to the receptacle screw shorting
20-amp breaker, you've got problems. against the side of a metal receptacle
Since 14-gauge wire cannot remain box. To prevent or remedy this, wrap a
attached to a 20-amp breaker, the couple of turns of electrical tape around
breaker must be changed to 15 amps. the sides of any receptacle going into a
However, if the circuit needs the full metal box. I sometimes even put a couple
20-amp load, a new 12-gauge wire will pieces of electrical tape into the back of
have to be run, a job that may require a the box to protect the wires as well.
professional electrician.
If you don't find problems with the
Damaged wiring receptacles or splices, you'll have to
Checking the physical condition of the check the cables. Look in the attic and
wiring is an important part of the inspec¬ crawlspaces for any cables pulled tight
tion. In general, wires should not be around sharp objects, such as ductwork,
frayed, should not have insulation miss¬ beams, and plates, or around tight cor¬
ing, and should not be burned or ners. Bending wires tightly around
discolored in any areas. They should not corners can break the insulation or the
be exposed in finished areas, where they wires, creating a loose connection that
could be damaged or where someone could overheat.
could touch them. And wires should not
be bent around sharp corners or around
sharp objects, such as ductwork.

INSPECTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 25

 3
RECEPTACLES
AND SWITCHES
Two of the most commonly miswired In that situation, nobody's life was threat¬
components of the house electrical sys¬ ened. But a miswired switch or receptacle
tem are receptacles and switches. I've can also be dangerous. I went on one call
made many service calls to rewire what in which the receptacle was so hot that it
someone has done wrong, and some of was glowing cherry red and on another
these calls still make me shake my head call where the child safety inserts in one
in amazement. It's really unbelievable the receptacle had melted. In both cases,
variety of ways a receptacle or switch can the receptacles were cheap, residential
be wired incorrectly. grades with push-in terminals. The con¬
nections had worked loose, creating heat
Often, a miswired switch or receptacle in the outlet and intermittent current
simply won't function. Two days ago I flow. If the homeowners had not noticed
was called out to repair a switch that a these situations, a fire could have started.
homeowner just couldn't get to work. It
took me almost two hours to straighten I'm not trying to scare you so much that
it out. He had a separate splice box that you hire an electrician every time you
wasn't required, and the splice box was need a new switch or receptacle installed.
hidden in the wall, which is against Instead, I'm trying to encourage you to
code (splices are maintainable items and do these jobs yourself because installing
must be accessible). From there he a switch or receptacle is really not that
brought in extra hot wires and neutrals difficult. It's just a matter of buying good-
that weren't needed and gave me one quality hardware and knowing how to
less wire than I needed at the light. At run the wires and to hook them up prop¬
the light, he had all kinds of wires that erly. The focus of this chapter will be
had nothing to do with the switching on standard 120-volt receptacles and
circuit. In the end, I had eight wires left switches. In it, you'll learn how to choose
over that I didn't need. the right boxes for them, how and where
to run the wiring for them, and how to
wire and troubleshoot them.

26
The nonmetallic boxes on the left attach to studs via the integral nail
holders or the bracket. Metal boxes like those on the right are available in a
variety of sizes and volumes. The box on the far right has rounded corners so
that it can be used in exposed areas. (Photo by Roe A. Osborn.)

CHOOSING When picking a single box, you'll have a

ELECTRICAL BOXES range between 16 cu. in. and 23 cu. in.,
One of the first steps in installing a recep¬ with 18 cu. in. being most common. I
tacle or switch is choosing the right box, recommend opting for the box with the
and there is a wide variety to choose largest-possible volume. For switching,
from. In general, both switches and you can choose double, triple, or quad
receptacles use the same boxes (see the boxes, depending on the number of
photo above). switches to be installed at one location.

Volume Nonmetallic or metal

The first consideration in choosing a box When choosing a box, you also have to
is the volume, or cubic inches of space think about whether to buy nonmetallic
inside the box. The National Electric Code or metal.
(NEC) calls this space "cable fill" and
specifies the amount of cable fill needed Nonmetallic boxes are made of PVC plas¬
based on the size and number of wires tic, fiberglass, or thermoset and are now
entering and leaving the box and on the the most commonly used boxes in homes
type of device the box will hold. If a box (they are my preference). Most single¬
is too small, it will be overcrowded, gang (meaning it holds one device)
resulting in broken or shorted wires and nonmetallic boxes are made with integral
possible damage to the box's receptacle¬ nail holders and come with nails already
holding threads. in the holders. They install quickly and are
less expensive than metal boxes (they
When choosing a box, it's better to have also have their volumes stamped inside).
too much volume instead of too little, An added bonus of nonmetallic boxes is
which will give the wires plenty of that they are nonconductive.
✓

breathing room. Havihg extra volume in

the box also gives you the option of
adding circuits in the future.

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 27

 Choosing Receptacles AND Switches

Many people don’t realize that residential-grade receptacles or

they have a choice about which switches are usually recommend¬
type of receptacles and switches ed by manufacturers for light-duty
to buy. They just go to the mega¬ use, such as hallways or bed¬
home store and pick a receptacle rooms. One problem with residen¬
or switch out of a bin, without re¬ tial grade is that you get what you
ally taking a close look. But the pay for. These devices don’t last
quality of receptacles and switch¬ very long even with light use. As a
es varies, and choosing good- matter of fact, they may not sur¬
quality hardware is a must if you vive the installation—I’ve had
want it to last. countless numbers of cheap
pieces of hardware break apart in
Quality is determined by the mate¬ my hands before I could even get
rials in the switch or receptacle them In the wall. And many of my
and how they are put together. service calls involve replacing
Since cheap receptacles and residential-grade receptacles and
switches are made from brittle switches that fell apart or wore
plastic, at least 10% of such will out quickly.
break apart as they are installed.
The most common problems are Another problem with residential-
Even if you can get a cheap having the bodies break and side grade receptacles is that many of
receptacle installed without screws stripping out in the body. them are equipped with push-in
breaking it, the cheap brittle terminals to connect the wires.
plastic will break sooner or A good-quality receptacle will This type of connection Is for lazy
later, as this one did at the have a hard-to-break face, a wrap¬ electricians and do-it-yourselfers
top ground slot. around yoke for support, a heavy- who are In a hurry and simply
duty body, a grounding clip, and push in the wire to the terminal.
heavier metal on the inside. When The mechanical connection In¬
you’re at the store, hold a light- side a push-in terminal is not
duty receptacle In one hand and a very good, and over time the
heavy-duty one in the other. Just connection may become loose,
by feel, you can tell that the and eventually the wire may
heavy-duty model is better. pull out completely. I had one
service call where the homeown¬
A good-quality switch will have ers thought their house was
an unbreakable nylon toggle, a haunted because of the problems
heavy-duty, corrosion-resistant these receptacle connections
brass- and nickel-plated yoke, gave. If you have a receptacle
large screw terminals on the with this type of connection
side, and dual grounding mechanism, don’t use it. Attach
options—a grounding terminal the wires to the screw terminals.
or a grounding clip.
For high-abuse areas, such as
The quality of receptacles and kitchens or garages, heavy-duty
switches you will need depends hardware—called spec or com¬
on what kind of use they will be mercial grade—is recommended.
subjected to. For example, cheap But beware! Just because a re-

28 CHAPTER THREE
 %

The commercial-grade receptacle on the right has A good-quality receptacle will

a heavy-duty body and a wraparound yoke and have a hard-to-break face and a
provides eight connections. The residential-grade grounding clip (bottom), which
receptacle on the left is made of cheap plastic and provides an automatic ground for
provides only four connections. the receptacle if it is installed in a
grounded metal box.

ceptacie or switch is commercial the home. Unfortunately, buying

grade doesn’t mean it is made of commercial-grade hardware can
nylon or other hard-to-break materi¬ be expensive ($2 and up apiece),
al. I put expensive commercial- depending on the number of
grade receptacles in my garage switches and receptacles you
when I built my house. They all need. But I think buying a better
broke around the grounding slot, receptacle or switch is worth the
and I had to replace them all. money because you’ll have fewer
problems down the road, meaning
I not only recommend commercial you won’t have to call a guy like
grade for high-abuse areas, but I al¬ me to come out and repair or
so recommend jt for use throughout replace what you’ve installed.

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 29

 than a nonmetallic box, especially with
the knockouts removed. I use metal
boxes only when they are necessary. And
if I must use a metal box, I line the sides
with electrical tape—sometimes even the
back—so that I don't accidentally short
out any hot terminals against the box.

Specialty boxes
Installing boxes can be difficult. You have
to be sure that the box sticks out from
the stud so that it will be flush with the
finished wall^. You also have to be sure
not to distort or break the box while nail¬
ing, all the while keeping the front of the
box parallel to the wall.

To make installation easier, manufacturers

designed a nonmetallic box with a
bracket that automatically sets the box
parallel and the correct distance from the
stud. You can also buy an adjustable box,
which, after it is nailed to the stud, can
An adjustable box can be moved in or out with the turn of a screw,
be moved in or out with the turn of a
which makes it easy to achieve a perfect, flush fit with the finished
wall. (Photo by Roe A. Osborn.) screw to fit flush to the finished wall (see
the photo at left).

For remodeling work, manufacturers

The problem with nonmetallic boxes is offer cut-in boxes (also called old-work
that they are not as durable as metal boxes), which allow you to install a box
ones. That means they must be installed without tearing up the wall to find a stud
inside wails, not in exposed areas where to nail to. A cut-in box is inserted into a
they could get bumped and broken. hole cut into the wall and holds itself in
place by sandwiching the wallboard
Metal boxes used to be the standard of between a bracket on the back and the
the industry, but no more, although they drywall ears on front (see the photo
still offer a few distinct advantages. First, on the facing page). The hole in the wall
they are stronger and offer a wider vari¬ must be cut exactly the same size as the
ety of styles and sizes. They should be box, though, or the box will fall through.
used in exposed areas because they'll be
able to stand up to bumps and bruises Installation
(you can even get boxes with rounded Receptacles and switches should be
edges for surface mounting in garages installed for convenience. There is no
and basements). But metal boxes are general code requirement. Unless I'm told
conductive, so they need to be grounded otherwise, for new installations I mount
by a pigtail off the ground-splice connec¬ receptacle boxes one hammer height
tion. They also pass fire and heat quicker from the bottom plate (see the drawing
on the facing page), or about 12 in. to

30 CHAPTER THREE
 Finding the Receptacle-Box Height

A cut-in box holds itself in place by

sandwiching the wallboard between
the brackets on back and drywall
ears on front. (Photo by Roe A.
Osborn.)

14 in. from the floor. For handicapped you are installing a box with integral nail
access, consult your local codes. Recep¬ holders. To make life easier, use a non-
tacles and switches for dedicated circuits metallic box with a nail bracket or an
require special treatment (see Chapter 9). adjustable box. Also, be careful when
driving the nails—one missed hammer
Switches must be no higher than blow can destroy a nonmetallic box.
6 ft. 7 in. from the floor, according to
the NEC. I think a good spot to install Receptacle and switch boxes have small
switch boxes is 4 ft. off the floor. For holes at the top and bottom to accept
receptacles and switches located above the hold-down screws of the receptacle
countertops, make sure the box is at least or switch. They also have four knockouts
1 in. above the top of the backsplash. on them that can be popped out to
accept incoming or outgoing cables.
As I said before, the front of the box
should be flush and parallel to the fin¬
ished wall, which could be frustrating if

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 31

 WHAT'S BEHIND
THE WALLS
House wiring is hidden behind the fin¬
If you always bring power into a box via one particular knockout and run ished walls, so it's important to know the
the outgoing cables through the others, you’ll be able to verify at a glance routes if you're going to do any electrical
whether the box has a hot cable or not.
work (it also pays to know the routes if
you plan on doing any remodeling so
that you don't cut any power cables
by accident).

Knockouts The wiring routes are pretty standard.

From the main panel, cables run through
the attic, the basement, or the crawl-
space, entering these areas through holes
Incoming
power (hot)
cut through the top or bottom plates of
Outgoing the walls. Then they run vertically along
power
studs and horizontally through them to
power receptacles or switches (or light
fixtures and appliances). Cables are sta¬
pled to the center of studs every 2 ft. or
Outgoing 3 ft. so that nails and screws driven into
power \ Outgoing
power the wall will not harm them.

Cables entering or leaving boxes are

required by code to be stapled to the
stud within 12 in. of a metal box and
Knockouts within 8 in. of a nonmetallic box. Holes
for cables running horizontally through
walls should be drilled high enough to
allow the cable to be stapled to the stud
above or below boxes. Cables also run
over or under doors and windows (see
the drawings on the facing page).
One problem I used to have when I first
started out was remembering which Running cable from the main panel can
cable was bringing in power to the box be difficult, time-consuming work if
and which ones were delivering it to you've never done it before or don't
other locations. Here's a tip to help you have the right tools for the job. One
avoid this kind of forgetfulness. Always way to save yourself headaches—
bring in power to the box through one and to prevent damage to cables and
particular knockout (I use the one on the the house structure—is to hire a
upper left). This way you will always be professional electrician to pull the
able to verify at a glance whether the cable to its destination. Then you can
box has a hot cable or not (see the save some money by installing the switch
drawing above). or receptacle and making the connec-

32 CHAPTER THREE
 Getting around a window

To get cable around a window,

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 33

 Running Cables throug

Installing switches and recepta¬ studs, and pull cable from the ex¬ A similar system can be used if
cles in walls that are already fin¬ isting receptacle to the new one you are installing a new light and
ished can be tricky. But here are (leave about 6 in. of slack in each switch in a room and are power¬
a few tips that can reduce the box). Connect the old receptacle ing them off an existing recepta¬
number of holes you cut Into the to the new one, then replace the cle (see the bottom drawing on
walls and ceiling. cut-away wallboard, and reinstall the facing page). First, turn off
the molding. the power. Then remove the base¬
When installing a new receptacle board molding and cut away the
or switch, the easiest way to run If you need to wire around an ex¬ wallboard to below the pencil
the cables from point to point is isting door but don’t want to cut line. Install the new switch box
at the base of the wall (see the away all the wallboard above the and the'ceiling-fixture box. Cut
drawing below). Say you’re in¬ header and can’t get through the away a section of wallboard at the
stalling a new receptacle that will attic or basement, run the cable top of the wall so you can drill
be wired from another in the through the shim space around through the double top plate (if
same room. First, draw a line the door (see the top drawing on you have an accessible attic, you
along the top of the baseboard the facing page). Remove the won’t need to do this). Also cut
molding and then remove the door trim and the baseboard away enough of the ceiling to be
molding. If paint is holding the molding. Turn off the power and able to pull the cable up through
molding to the wall, use a utility pull the cable through the studs the plate. Drill holes in the studs
knife to break the seal. and the shim space. You’ll have to and in the plate and run the cable
chisel the shims enough to fit the from the existing receptacle to
After the molding has been re¬ cable and then protect the cable the switch box, then run another
moved, turn off the power and cut from nails and screws with Vie-in.- from the switch box to the light
away the wallboard, staying be¬ thick metal plates. After running fixture. Make the connections,
neath the pencil line. Install the the cable, reinstall any wallboard and replace any sections of wall,
new box, drill holes through the or trim you removed. ceiling, or molding you removed.

Routing cable behind baseboard trim

34 CHAPTER THREE
Routing cable for a new ceiling light

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 35

 tions yourself. Now let's see how it's horizontal slot on the wide, neutral slot
done. Before beginning any electrical to accommodate the special plugs on
work, remember to remove the power. these appliances. Install a 20-amp recep¬
tacle only on a circuit with 12-gauge
WIRING RECEPTACLES cable and protected by a 20-amp circuit
The purpose of a receptacle is to provide breaker or fuse. Installation procedures
access, or an outlet, to electrical power. for both 15- and 20-amp receptacles are
Receptacles come in 15- and 20-amp the same.
configurations (see the photo below).
Wire stripping
Most homes have 15-amp receptacles in The first step in any installation is to bring
them, even if they are wired into a 20- the cable to the box. Pull it enough that
amp circuit. This is because it is assumed you have about 6 in. of slack hanging out
that each receptacle will be used at of the box. This will give you enough
something considerably less than 15 room to strip the cable end and expose
amps. A 15-amp receptacle has two verti¬ the wires inside.
cal slots and the grounding slot. A
20-amp receptacle is for appliances that A utility knife with a sharp blade works
draw a lot of current, such as some air well for cutting open the insulation on
conditioners and refrigerators. It has a the cable. Start about Va in. from where
the cable enters the box, and slice it
down the middle of the flat side (see the
left photo on the facing page). Be careful
not to damage any wires inside the cable.
Peel back the insulation and the heavy
cardboard in the cable and slice it away
as close as possible to where the slit
began. I have repaired many jobs where
the installer had a tough time getting the
receptacle into the box, even when there
was plenty of volume. The installer had
not stripped the insulation away from
cable back to within lA in. of where the
wires entered the box. Don't make the
same mistake.

Then cut all like wires to the same

length and remove about y2 in. of
insulation from any insulated conductors
(see the right photo on the facing page).
This can be done with a utility knife, but
wire strippers work better and don't
The 20-amp receptacle on the left has a horizontal slot in the damage the conductor inside the insula¬
neutral slot that accommodates the special plug of an appliance tion. With the wires stripped, you're
that draws a lot of current. The other receptacle is a standard ready to begin connecting them to
15-amp unit. (Photo by Roe A. Osborn.) the receptacle.

36 CHAPTER THREE
Cut the cable sheathing along the flat side with a Strip about Vi in. from the end of any insulated wire
utility knife, being careful not to damage the wires in the cable using a knife or wire strippers. (Photo
inside. (Photo by Roe A. Osborn.) by Roe A. Osborn.)

Single receptacle using needle-nose pliers. Back the screw

Power is accessed through the slots on out of the receptacle and slip the loop
the front of the receptacle. A receptacle around the screw shaft so that the open
has a narrow slot, a wide slot, and a section of the loop is on the right-hand
grounding slot. If you are wiring just a side. Make sure most of the loop is under
single receptacle, simply attach the col¬ the screw, then tighten it down. The
ored wires to their appropriate terminals. counterclockwise turning of the screw
will grab the loop and secure it tightly.
The narrow slot is internally wired to the When tightening the screws, be careful
brass-colored screw terminals on the side not to strip the terminal's threads. If you
of the receptacle. The black hot wire, do, throw away the receptacle; it is no
which brings power to the receptacle longer good.
from the main panel, is to be secured to
one of these ter/ninals (see the left photo The wide slot on the receptacle front is
on p. 38). To secure it, first twist the end internally connected to the silver-colored

of the wire in a small clockwise loop screw terminals on the opposite side of

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 37

The black hot wire connects to one of the brass- The white neutral wire connects to one of the silver-
colored screw terminals, which connects to the colored screw terminals, which connects to the wide
narrow slot on the front of the receptacle. slot on the front of the receptacle.

the brass screw terminals. The white neu¬ installer had cut off every ground wire
tral wire provides a return path (to the where it entered the box. Unbelievable.
main panel) for the electricity provided by (I know an inspector who sees this at
the black wire. Connect it to one of the least once a month.)
silver terminals using the same attach¬
ment method as before (see the right Receptacle strings
photo above). If you are wiring more than one recepta¬
cle in a circuit (called a string), there are
The grounding slot on the front of the two ways to do it: in series or in parallel.
receptacle connects to the green ground¬
ing screw on the back of the receptacle. Wiring receptacles in series is the most
The bare copper wire, called the equip¬ common method of wiring a string of
ment grounding conductor (more receptacles on one circuit (see the top
commonly called the ground wire), con¬ drawing on the facing page). In a series
nects here. You'd be surprised how many circuit, incoming current flows through
people don't know that simple fact. I all the receptacles of the string. The
made one service call to troubleshoot a advantage of this string is that it's easy to
new renovation where the previous hook up. The disadvantage of this wiring

38 CHAPTER THREE
Receptacle String in Series

Incoming Outgoing Incoming Outgoing Incoming

power power power power power

The last receptacle in the string

These receptacles feed others downstream. If one Is
does not power any others.
disconnected, any others downstream will lose power.

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 39

 setup is that if a wire comes off one
receptacle, power will be cut off to that
receptacle and every other receptacle
Knowing how to make a good electrical splice is a must for any¬ downstream (those powered off it).
one working with electricity. A loose connection can cause inter¬
mittent current flow and can generate enough heat to melt wire
A much better method of wiring recepta¬
insulation. The most sound method is to splice using a wire nut
cle strings is to wire them in parallel
(see the Glossary on p. 146), which provides a strong mechani¬
(see the bottom drawing on p. 39). In a
cal connection. Here’s how to splice with a wire nut.
parallel string, no current flows to the
receptacle unless a load is plugged into it.
Any receptacle can be removed without
cutting off power to those downstream.
Wiring a parallel string takes a bit more
work than wiring a series string.

The first step in a parallel string is to cut

6-in. pieces of white, black, and ground
wire and strip Vi in. of insulation at each
Cut all wires to be spliced the exact same length and strip off end. Then splice the short length of black
around V2 in. of insulation. Then twist the wires together in a wire (called a "pigtail") to the incoming
clockwise motion using pliers. black wire and the outgoing black wire
using a wire nut. Do the same for the
other pigtails and wires: white to white,
ground to ground (for more on splicing,
see the sidebar at left).

Loop the end of each pigtail and attach it

to the appropriate terminal; black to the
brass terminal, white to the silver termi¬
nal, and the bare ground to the green
grounding screw.

Screw a wire nut on the twisted wire end—also in a clockwise Pushing the receptacle
motion. Twist the wire nut until firm pressure is obtained. If the back into the box
wire nut just spins as you turn it, without catching, either the After hooking up the receptacle, push it
wire nut is too big or a wire end is bent. carefully into the box. If you've installed a
big enough box and if the splices have
been pushed neatly into the back of it,
the receptacle should slide in easily. It
helps to bend the pigtails into a Z shape
so that they can be folded accordion style
into the box.

If you are having trouble pushing the

wires back in, it's probably because the
box is too small. Don't force the issue. I
was on a job once when one of my
No bare wire should show below the skirt of the wire nut. helpers tried to stuff two three-wire
cables and a ground-fault circuit inter¬
rupter (GFCI) receptacle into a small

40 CHAPTER THREE
 The line terminals on a
metal utility box. Sparks flew, one wire
GFCI receptacle are for
totally burned, the breaker tripped, and a
incoming power. The load
$20 GFCI bit the dust. Don't make the terminals are for outgoing
same mistake. protected power.

After pushing the receptacle into the

box, restore power and test it. If the
receptacle is working properly, put on
the cover plate.

Wiring a GFCI receptacle

A GFCI receptacle protects people against
receiving deadly shocks in the event of a
ground fault (see the Glossary on p. 146).
Often when a ground fault occurs, the
current takes a path to ground that has
the least resistance—usually a human.
Simply put, a GFCI receptacle can sense
when a ground fault has occurred on a
circuit and opens, or interrupts, the cir¬
cuit faster than a heartbeat—quick
enough to save a life.

In new construction, GFCI receptacles

are required in areas that are damp or
that have plumbing, such as kitchens,
bathrooms, crawlspaces, and even out¬
doors. Older homes may not have any GFCI receptacles have a test and reset
kind of GFCI protection in these areas, button and a sticker that reminds you to
but they should. GFCI receptacles can test it monthly. You can only test a GFCI
also be used to protect ungrounded receptacle while it is hooked up—you
two-prong outlets. can't take a unit off the store shelf or out
of its box and press the buttons to see if
All GFCI receptacles have two screw ter¬ it works. The test button puts a simulated
minals marked as line (input) and two ground fault on the neutral to verify that
more screws marked as load (output), the unit will work. If it's working properly,
as shown in the photo above. The the reset button will pop out, and power
incoming black (hot) and white (neutral) will be removed from the circuit. Press
wires connect to the two line terminals. the reset button back in, and power will
The two load terminals are used only if be restored.
you want downstream receptacles to
have GFCI protection as well. Never As with standard receptacles, GFCIs are
mix these wires because the GFCI may available in residential and commercial
not protect you properly. The ground grades. Residential grades don't last very
terminal is identical to a typical receptacle long. I installed some in my house a cou¬
ground terminal and has nothing to do ple years ago, and they all are dead now.

with life protection. What 1 should have installed then and do

install now is commercial grade (also

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 41

 Attach the white neutral to the white terminal on
the line side of the GFCl (left) and attach the
ground wire to the grounding terminal. Then attach
the black wire to the hot line terminal (right).

called industrial grade). Live and learn. existing receptacle, splice like colors
You can get commercial units at whole¬ together (black to black, white to white,
sale electrical stores for less than $20. and all grounds) and run a pigtail from
each splice to the line terminals of the
Installation of a GFCl receptacle is similar GFCl and the ground terminal. Again,
to the process described previously. To you can't have more than one wire under
replace an old receptacle with a GFCl any terminal. If you're putting in a new
receptacle, turn off all power, and GFCl receptacle, install the box, run the
remove the receptacle from the wiring. cable, and connect the wiring as I just
described. After installation, restore
If the receptacle has only one black and power and test the GFCl receptacle to
one white wire (plus ground) attached to see if it works.
it, you can make a direct transfer of these
wires to the GFCl receptacle (see the WIRING SWITCHES
photos above). First connect the white The purpose of a switch is to connect
wire to its terminal on the line side. Then power to a load, normally a light, when it
connect the black wire to the hot termi¬ is thrown to the on position. If you are
nal on the line side. If there are two black installing a new switch, put in the appro-
and two white wires attached to the

42 CHAPTER THREE
priate box, run the cable, strip it, and
then strip the ends of the insulated wires
inside (see the right photo on p. 37). The
three nnost connmon switches used in the Imagine an ambulance is on its way to your house, and only sec¬
home are single-pole switches, three-way
onds stand between life and death. The ambulance turns onto
your street, but it’s dark, and the driver can’t read the house
switches, and dimmer switches.
numbers. Precious time is lost trying to find the right house. This
situation can be avoided by installing a new specialty switch that
Single-pole switch can be turned to a position that makes the outside lights flash.
A single-pole switch is the most common The flashing lights make it easy for an emergency crew or police
one used in a residence. It has a ground¬ to distinguish your house from all the rest on the block.
ing terminal on the bottom and two
screw terminals on its side: one for the To install, all you have to do is replace your existing outside light
wire carrying the incoming power, and switch with the flasher switch. Once power is off, remove the ex¬
the other for the wire that carries isting switch from the outlet box. Remove the two wires
switched power to the load. It makes no attached to the switch and splice them with wire nuts onto the
difference which wire connects to which flasher switch’s two wires. That’s all there is to it. Now put
the switch back into the box and reinstall the cover plate. The
terminal. When the switch lever is raised,
switch will still have a down off position and an up on position.
the wires are electrically connected
However, when turned halfway between the two, the lights will
together within the switch.
start to flash.

There are three methods of wiring a

single-pole switch. The simplest method
has the power being brought to the
load, then to the switch box. The wires
are spliced at the load to wires coming
from the switch (see the left drawing
on p. 44). The thing to watch out for
here is that the white wire can be hot
because it carries current from the load
splice to the switch. To indicate that it is
a hot wire, tape the white wire with
black tape at the splice and at the switch
box. This is not required by code—it's just
common sense.

Another wiring method has incoming

power going to the switch box (see the
right drawing on p. 44). I prefer this
method because it allows easy access
to the power cable. The incoming hot
wire connects to the switch, as does the
black wire from the outgoing cable,
which carries switched power to the
load. In this case, the white wires are
spliced together and remain neutral, so To Install this life-saving switch, turn off the power, remove the
no black tape is required. Also, the wires from the existing switch, and splice them to the flasher
ground wires are spliced together, with a switch’s pigtails. You don’t have to worry about polarity.
pigtail to the switch.

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 43

 One cable from load Two cables: incoming power and load

Incoming
power

The power is brought through

the switoh to the load, which
allows easy access to the
incoming power. This is the
in the switch box.
author’s preferred method.

If you want to wire a receptacle from the Three-way switch

switch box, you must use my preferred The purpose of a three-way switch is to
wiring method, which brings power provide load control, normally a light, at
directly to the box. Run a cable to the two locations. The back of the switch has
switch box from the receptacle location. three terminals: two are called travelers
If you don't want power to the receptacle and a third, a dark-colored screw, is
to be controlled by the switch, wire it as called the common, or COM terminal.
shown in the drawing on the facing The COM terminal is like a tongue: It
page. In this situation, the switch will still laps, or connects, alternately between
control power to the load, but the recep¬ the other two screw terminals.
tacle will have constant power.

44 CHAPTER THREE
 Three cables: incoming power, load, outgoing power

Incoming
The receptacle is hot
power at all times.

Outgoing
power

A receptacle downstream can be powered

through the switch box. The switch will
The light Is controlled by
control power to the load, but the the switch.
receptacle will always have power.

Things can get confusing when installing connect directly to the two unused trav¬
a three-way switch, but when all else eler terminals of the second three-way
fails, remember my three basic rules of switch (see the drawing on p. 46). It
three-way switch wiring. First, the hot doesn't make any difference which wire
black wire always goes directly to a COM goes to which of the two terminals—
terminal on one of the switches. Second, there is no polarity (see the Glossary on
the neutral of the incoming power always p. 146). In this instance, one of the white
goes directly to the load neutral, with the wires is a traveler and will be hot, so it's a
other load wire (black) going directly to good idea to tape it black so that a per¬
the COM terminal of the other three-way son working on it will know it's hot.
switch. Third, the two unused traveler
terminals of the first three-way switch

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 45

 Wiring A Three-Way Switc

Three-way switches control a

load from two locations. Taping
the white traveler black to
indicate it’s hot is not required,
Incoming but it’s a good idea.
power

Nonmetallic
box

COM
COM Traveler terminal
terminal wires

If you are replacing a three-way switch Once wired, the switch must be checked.
with another, be careful when transfer¬ You have to throw the switch three times
ring the connections. Not all switch to check it. The first should turn on the
manufacturers put the terminals in the lights at one location. The second test is
same locations. Double-check which to turn them off at the other end. The
terminal is the COM and which are trav¬ third test is to turn them back on again at
elers. The screw for the COM terminal is the first location.
normally marked by black paint.
Dimmer switch
I've made many service calls where peo¬ The dimmer switch was developed to
ple replaced a single switch with a provide continuous control over lighting
three-way switch but didn't transfer the as opposed to a simple on-and-off
wires properly. The most common mis¬ switch. A dimmer can do this by limiting
take is getting all the wires confused. I've the amount of time that current flows to
had several people wire direct shorts into the load. Three distinct advantages of a
the line. Throw the switch to turn on the dimmer switch are that it saves electricity,
light, and POW, the breaker goes off. extends the life of a bulb's filament, and
Other times I've seen folks leave off the provides the proper mood for a room.
neutral. To be sure you make the transfer (Fluorescent lights require special ballasts
correctly, mark the wires with tape as you and dimmers.)
take them off. First mark the COM wire
and then mark the two travelers.

46 CHAPTER THREE
 To wire a dimmer, splice the
incoming black and white
wires to the dimmer's wires
and attach the ground wire
to the grounding terminal,
if any.

A standard dimmer switch

is rated only for 600 watts
(six 100-watt light bulbs) as
indicated by the figure
immediately above the
knob. Never exceed this
amount.

A dimmer switch is wired the same way

as a single-pole switch. First, make sure
the power is off. The dimmer has two
black wires already attached to it. Simply
splice the incoming black and white wires
to these two wires (polarity does not
matter). Then, if it needs it, attach the
ground to the switch (not all dimmers
have ground wires). That's it. If you're
replacing a single-pole switch with a dim¬
mer, simply remove the two wires from
the single-pole switch and splice them to
the dimmer's two wires (see the photo
above). Then it's just a matter of pushing
everything back into the box, turning on
the power, and testing the switch.

Installing a three-way dimmer switch on a

three-way lighting circuit is a little harder, Here's how to do it. Make sure the power
but it's basically the same as a standard is removed from the circuit. A three-way
three-way circuit. However, only one of dimmer switch has the same number of
the two switches in a three-way circuit terminals as a standard three-way
can be dimmed with a standard dimmer. switch—one COM terminal and two trav¬
The other must be left a switch. (Special elers—but it has wires already attached.
dimmers are made for dimming both Find the COM terminal wire and splice
locations.) the incoming hot wire (black or red) to it.
(If you are replacing a three-way switch

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 47

with a three-way dimmer, simply remove warm—it's also the dimmer's heat sink,
the wires from the standard switch and designed to dissipate the heat generated
transfer them to the dimmer wires.) by the dimmer.
Then the travelers can be spliced to the
dimmer travelers. Again, there is no The heat is coming from the electronic
traveler polarity involved, so it doesn't components in the dimmer as electricity
matter which wires go to which traveler flows through them. Unfortunately, these
terminals. Once wired, push the switch components can‘be destroyed by this
into the box, turn on the power, and test heat, so the heat sink (heat dissipater) is
the switch. incorporated within the design. This is
where the limitation of the 600 watts
A couple words of caution. Standard comes from. The incorporated heat sink
dimmers are rated for up to 600 watts. physically can'only dissipate up to that
Do not install a standard dimmer on a amount of heat. If you want to use
light circuit that will exceed that amount higher-wattage bulbs, get a dimmer
(see the bottom photo on p. 47). Also, with a bigger heat sink (available at most
it's normal for a dimmer switch to run electrical distributors). Beware—some
hot, so don't worry if the front plate feels designs hum.

TROUBLESHOOTING
If you are having problems with your
newly installed receptacle or switch, there
are a few ways to check whether it has
been wired correctly or if there is some
other problem. Some troubleshooting
requires only a little common sense to
solve obvious problems. Other situations
will require some special tools, such as a
multimeter or a plug-in tester, to solve
the not-so-obvious problems (for more
on inspecting receptacles and switches,
see Chapter 2).

Receptacles
Receptacles are easy to troubleshoot.
First look at the obvious. If you're
having problems, check to see if the
power is on. Then turn off the power
and physically check to see if the recepta¬
cle broke apart during installation. Next,
make sure all connections are tight (if you
used the push-in terminals of a cheap
The lights on this plug-in tester
receptacle, loose connections are a com¬
indicate that the receptacle is
wired properly. mon problem).
If these are not the sources of trouble, with the switch still in the box. With the
use a plug-in tester to check if the recep¬ cover plate removed, place one probe on
tacle has been miswired (see the photo one screw and the second probe on the
on the facing page). The two most com¬ other, being sure not to short out the
mon problems are switching the hot and probes on the sides of a metal box. The
neutral wires and leaving off the ground. voltage should be around 120 volts when
Both problems are indicated on the the switch is off and close to zero when
tester's lights and are easily fixed by the switch is on.
reversing the wires or connecting the
ground wire. If the power has been removed from
the entire circuit, use the multimeter
Switches as a continuity tester to check the
The first troubleshooting procedure for a switch. A standard single-pole switch
suspected faulty switch is to check the should have continuity (a closed circuit)
obvious; Note how it works as it is across its two terminals when the switch
switched. Many times a faulty switch just is on and no continuity (an open circuit)
doesn't feel or sound right. Wiggle the when the switch is off. Always take the
switch while it's in the on position and switch out of the box and remove one of
see if the light flickers. If this is the case, the two wires on the switch's screw ter¬
the switch may be physically broken or minals before testing to eliminate any
worn out and will need to be replaced. false readings.

Though the problem could still be the If the switch is powering a light, you can
switch, never overlook a bad light bulb or measure the voltage from the light's cen¬
light fixture. I've made many service calls ter contact to the screw thread base of
to repair lights—a few to my local court¬ the light. If it measures 120 volts when
house—and the only problem was bad the switch is on and 0 volts when the
bulbs (an electrician charges a lot to switch is off, the switch is good.
change bulbs). Check the fixture with a
bulb you know is good. To check a three-way switch, first make
sure the power is off, then check the
To check the bulb, you can shake it to continuity from the COM terminal to
hear the broken filament. But this is not each of the two other traveler terminals.
always the best test. Use a continuity One side should always read continuity,
checker or screw the bulb into a known and the other should not. It doesn't make
good lamp. If the bulb is good, check the any difference which side reads what. If
center contact inside the faulty light's the switch you're testing is the one that
socket. It could be excessively bent over has power applied to the COM terminal,
and not able to make contact with the it can be checked by measuring power
bulb's center contact after years of use. first on one of the traveler terminals
Make sure the power is off, use a pencil (from ground or neutral) and then on the
eraser to clean the contact, and then, other as the switch is thrown.
with a small screwdriver, bend it up
slightly (Vs in.). So much for the obvious.

The not-so obvious, however, is what

troubleshooting is all about. To determine
if a common single-pole switch is work¬
ing properly, simply measure the voltage
across its two terminals. This can be done

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES 49

 INTERIOR
LIGHT riMTURES

The most common mistake people make metallic designs, and even though the
when choosing a light fixture is picking metal boxes can hold more weight, I pre¬
the one that simply looks best. Just fer nonmetallic simply because of the
because a fixture is attractive in its set¬ safety factor of having a nonconductive
ting, it doesn't mean you have made the box. I've seen too many wires being cut
right selection. by the sharp edges of a metal box and
shorting out (metal boxes are more of a
Although looks are important—the fix¬ fire hazard, too).
ture should match the style of the room,
fulfill its purpose, and be attractive— Nonmetallic rectangular receptacle and
there's more to choosing a light fixture. switch boxes are different than ceiling
You must also consider all the problems a boxes (for more on receptacle and switch
particular fixture can have. boxes, see Chapter 3). The screws that
hold the fixture onto the ceiling box are
The purpose of this chapter is to provide larger than those used for a receptacle or
you with enough information about light switch box and provide better holding
fixtures that you buy not only the one power. If you hang a light fixture from a
you find attractive but also the one that receptacle box, the light could fall onto
best serves your lighting needs without the floor or someone standing under it.
future problems. I'll talk about how to
choose, install, and troubleshoot incan¬ Ceiling boxes differ by the way they
descent lights, recessed lights, track mount and by their volume (cubic inches
lights, and fluorescent lights. Because of space inside the box). As with a recep¬
some of these fixtures require installation tacle or switch box, always use the
of an electrical box in the ceiling, let's largest-volume box available. But not all
begin the discussion there. light fixtures utilize a ceiling box. Some
fixtures, such as fluorescent and recessed
CEILING BOXES lights, will not need boxes because they
Picking the right electrical box for a light already have a splice box in their frame¬
fixture (called a ceiling box) is important. work or the fixture was supplied with a
If the wrong box is used, the light fixture whip (long wires surrounded by flexible
could fall or the wires could become steel) that goes to a splice box several
damaged from overcrowding. Ceiling feet away from the fixture.
boxes are available in metal and non-

50
INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 51
There are several types of ceiling boxes, large volume of wires. Its biggest benefit
the most common being the integral-nail is that it fits nicely under the light fix¬
box, bar-hanger box, cut-in box, and ture's base. Caution: 3y2-in.-square boxes
pancake box (see the drawings on p. 51). (4 cu. in.) are sold that cannot comply
Most ceiling boxes, regardless of design, with code. The minimum-size box you
have volumes ranging from around should use is 4 in. square (6 cu. in.).
13 cu. in. to 23 cu. in., but pancake
boxes have less (usually 4 cu. in. to Mounting a ceiling box is simple. It is
6 cu. in.). either screwed or nailed directly onto one
joist or between two of them. A light fix¬
The simplest and least expensive box is ture that weighs 50 lb. or less can be
the integral-nail box. This type is easy supported by the ceiling box alone. A fix¬
to find, but it's cheap and breaks easily ture that weighs more than 50 lb. is
during installation. A better-quality inte¬ required by the NEC to be secured into
gral-nail box is one with brackets to hold the house framing. However, I suggest
the box in place, which provides better not getting close to that weight.
support for the light fixture.
INCANDESCENT LIGHTS
A bar-hanger box can be used in both The most common light fixture in the
new construction and renovation work. home is the incandescent fixture. There
This type of box has a 16-in. or 24-in. bar are a wide variety of styles, and which
that attaches between ceiling joists, and you choose will depend on its purpose
you can slide the box to any location and what you find attractive. But it's
along the bar. This type of box tends to important to choose the best-built, best-
sag under the weight of a fixture with designed fixture to ensure that it will last
even moderate weight, though. a long time without trouble.

A cut-in box is used for renovation work Choosing the right fixture
and makes it easy to install a light fixture. One of the first things to look for in an
It is attached to the ceiling by sandwich¬ incandescent light is an air gap between
ing the finish ceiling between the drywall the light's cover and the base of the fix¬
ears on the front of the box and a locking ture. The heat generated by the light
mechanism on the back. A screw tightens bulb has to go somewhere, and without
the locking mechanism against the back this air gap to allow heat to escape, it will
of the ceiling, locking the box in place. move up into the fixture base and then
Unless a cut-in box is sandwiched to solid into the wiring (see the left photo on the
wood, it should only be used with a fix¬ facing page). I've lost track of the num¬
ture that is very light in weight. ber of light fixtures I've seen with burned
and cracked wiring, along with black¬
A pancake box is versatile because it can ened and deformed wire nuts at splices.
be used in both new construction and
renovation work, and it provides sturdy Beware of light fixtures with those beau¬
support for a light fixture. For best tiful teardrop bulbs, typically found in
results, attach the box directly to a stud kitchen or dining-room lights (see the
or joist. The biggest drawbacks to a pan¬ right photo on the facing page).
cake box are that it's metal, so it needs to Oftentimes these fixtures have a plastic
be grounded, and it is thin (usually about or cardboard sleeve that covers the base,
Vi in. thick) and cannot accommodate a but it blackens and cracks over time from
the heat generated by the bulb. You
 Poorly Designed Light Fixtures

The light fixture above has no air gap between Teardrop bulbs are pretty but will only stay so for
the cover and the base of the fixture, so heat a short period if the base around it is poorly
generated by the bulb is trapped. Look for a designed. The heat from the bulb has blackened
fixture that allows the heat to escape. and cracked the plastic base on this fixture.

either have to cut the sleeve back or special bulbs are typically trendy designs,
buy a cover for it (which could also crack and as such, change or disappear alto¬
and blacken). gether over time. That means you may
not be able to get identical bulbs for
Also make sure the fixture has standard them. So if you choose a fixture with
screw-in bulb sockets, not the smaller, unusual bulbs, be sure to have plenty of
fancier specialized sockets. Bulbs with the spares on hand because they may be
standard base are less expensive and are hard to find in a few years. This hap¬
stronger that those with the smaller base pened to me. Above my bathroom vanity
(see the top photo on p. 54). I've had I installed strip lights with special irides¬
many bulbs with snnail bases break at the cent bulbs. Now, because I cannot find
metal-to-glass connection as I screwed this type of bulb, the fixture does not
them into the fixture. The fixtures with have the same effect as it used to.

iflTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES S3

 If you are installing a fixture in a wet
area, such as a shower, make sure that it
can be used in that area (look for the UL
label saying it is okay for use in wet
areas) and that it is powered by a GFCI.

Another obvious but often overlooked

quality for a light fixture is the ease with
which you can change the bulb or clean
the fixture's cover. Remember that the
fixture will, for the most part, be
mounted on a ceiling. A fixture that does
not make it easy to change the bulb can
be frustrating. I know one design that
makes it very difficult to gain access to
the bulb. You have to open a little door
to get your fingers in, then you bend
Note the different base sizes in these bulbs. The standard size on the
left is stronger and easier to find. The smaller base on the right has back small metal tabs to remove the glass
a large-diameter bulb and sometimes breaks at the bulb-base sides. This is not an easy job while stand¬
connection as the bulb is screwed in. ing on a stepladder.

One last consideration—but not last in

importance—is the wattage of the fix¬
ture. Most incandescent lights will have a
maximum bulb wattage of 60 watts for
one to three bulbs. This is enough illumi¬
nation for general lighting but not
enough for reading. If you need more
light, either mount more than one fixture
or search for one listed for higher
wattages. Do not install a bulb in a fix¬
ture that has a higher wattage than the
maximum wattage of the fixture (see the
bottom photo at left). For example, don't
put a 100-watt bulb in a fixture with a
maximum wattage of 60. This could gen¬
erate enough heat to melt the insulation
on the wires and become a fire hazard.

Installation and wiring

Make sure you do not insert a bulb that exceeds the wattage rating
of the fixture. The rating is usually stamped inside. When installing any light fixture, be
sure to follow all manufacturer instruc¬
tions and pay attention to all warning
labels. Ignoring instructions or warning
labels could be dangerous and will result
in a light that does not work properly.
Also be sure you have the correct size
box for the fixture.

54 CHAPTER FOUR
The first step is to remove power from
the circuit. If you are installing a new
light fixture, as opposed to replacing one,
run the cable to the fixture's location
(for more on running cables, see
Chapter 3). If you are installing a new cir¬
cuit from the main panel to the light
fixture and have never run cable through
walls, you might want to call an electri¬
cian to do the job. You can then make all
the necessary connections.

The installation of a light fixture can go

smoothly by thinking ahead. First, make
sure you have the fixture in hand before
you begin. I can remember one mistake I
made when I installed a wall-mount light
fixture adjacent to an exterior door. I
mounted the box and pulled all the
wiring through, then picked up the fix¬
ture. When I tried to install it, however, I
realized it was too big—the top of the
light hit the soffit. I try not to make the
same mistake twice. Now I always make
sure I have the fixture in hand so I can
see how it fits before I begin any work.

Once you are sure the fixture fits, and

after double-checking to see that power
is removed from the circuit, begin mount¬
ing the fixture. A small flat bar (called a
mounting strap) attaches to the ceiling
box, and the fixture attaches to the bar
(see the drawing at right). If the fixture is
heavy, some other support may be
required. The instructions should
tell you so.

Wiring is pretty simple. The hot incoming

black wire connects to the fixture's black
wire, the white neutral connects to the
fixture's white wire, and the ground wire
connects to the flat bar or green wire of
the fixture. Be sure to ground the ceiling
box too if it is metal. That's it. After
wiring is completed, restore power, insert
a bulb, and see if the light works.

INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 55

RECESSED LIGHTS fingers in to remove the bulb. If it does
Recessed lights (also called can lights) can not, you may have to buy a special
give a variety of illuminating effects suction-cup type of tool to remove the
throughout the house. Because they bulb. I personally would much rather
are inset into the ceiling, they are unob¬ remove it by hand. It's simpler that way.
trusive, which also makes them perfect
for rooms with low ceilings. Recessed One other note, before running the
lights are commonly used for task light¬ wiring, make sure the fixture you have
ing in kitchens and closets and for accent chosen will fit. Some ceiling cavities may
lighting in other areas of the home (say, be so shallow that you must buy a shal¬
to highlight works of art). There is no low recessed fixture.
need for a ceiling box in this installation.
The fixture is attached directly to the Installation and wiring
ceiling joists. Once you have chosen the housing and
fixture you like—and one that will fit the
Choosing recessed lights space in your ceiling—you can begin the
The main factor in your choice of installation process. As usual, make sure
recessed lights will be the size and type power is off and run the wiring first. Also
of housing. There are two basic types: be sure to follow all manufacturer in¬
1C type and non-IC type. A recessed light structions and warnings. There are
with an IC-type housing allows insulation basically two steps in the installation
to be around and over its mounting base process: mounting and wiring.
in the ceiling or attic. A recessed light
with a non-IC type housing must be kept Most recessed lights are mounted on two
at least 3 in. from any insulation. If insu¬ sliding arms that are nailed to the ceiling
lation is touching or too close to a non-IC joists. Be sure to remove any insulation in
fixture, the heat generated by the light the way and position the fixture so that
could start a fire (remember this when the finished wall will be able to slide
storing cardboard boxes in the attic). under the frame and butt up against the
Housings are also available for special circular housing at the bottom.
applications, such as sloped ceilings,
closet lights, shallow spaces, and high- Wiring to the light is done inside a metal
wattage bulbs (up to 200 watts). splice box mounted on the light's frame.
Inside the splice box will be a black wire,
In general, IC-type recessed lights have a white wire, and a ground wire. The
lower maximum wattages than non-IC incoming power cable enters the splice
types (see the photos on the facing box via one of the many knockout holes.
page). The wattage ratings are labeled Using a screwdriver, pry away the knock¬
inside the fixture. As with any light fix¬ out center and install an NM connector.
ture, do not exceed the wattage of the An NM connector (see the photo on
light. Both types of recessed lights have a p. 99) is installed in a knockout in the
heat sensor that will cause the light to box to keep the cable away from the
cut off if it gets too hot or if its maximum metal box's sharp edges and to tighten
bulb wattage is exceeded. down on the cable to keep it from being
pulled out of the box.
When choosing a recessed light, be
aware of how easy it is to replace the Insert the cable through the connector
bulb—in some models, it's a hassle. Be and splice black to black, white to white,
sure the design allows you to get your and ground to ground (see the drawing
on p. 58). Gently tighten down the two
All recessed light fixtures have their maximum wattage labeled inside the
housing. They also have heat sensors that cause the light to blink or cut
off when the temperature gets too high.

This IC-type
recessed light has
a maximum wattage
of 75, and the heat
sensor is mounted
on the bottom of the
housing.

This non-IC-type
recessed light has a
maximum wattage
of 150. The heat
sensor is mounted
on the side of the
housing out of view.

INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 57

 screws on the NM connector to hold the preferred, and some model energy codes
incoming power cable in place. (I say require, that 1C fixtures be used wherever
gently because I once had a helper insulation will be, such as in attics.
tighten the screw so much that he cut
through the insulation on the wires and TRACK LIGHTS
shorted them out.) Then restore power Track lights are typically used to provide
and test the light. accent lighting. What's great about these
lights is that you can place a lamp at any
After the fixture has been wired and is spot on the track, but you only have to
working properly, you can replace the bring in one cable to power all the lights
insulation you removed earlier. Remem¬ on the track (see the photo on the facing
ber, if you have a non-IC fixture, keep the page). Another good thing about track
insulation at least 3 in. from the housing lights is that they can be mounted on any
(it helps to build a lx frame around the flat surface, such as ceilings, walls, or
fixture to hold the insulation away). It is even cabinets.

58 CHAPTER FOUR
Track lights allow you to insert lamps into the track at any location. When
locked in place, the two bare copper tabs on the bottom of the lamp (see
inset) make electrical contact with the track.

Choosing track lights When picking a track-light design and

In general, the type of track lights you manufacturer, pay particular attention to
choose will depend on your personal the housing design. I prefer track lights
tastes and on your space requirements. that have an air gap between the hous¬
But there are a few other things you have ing and the bulb to allow heat to
to consider as well, such as color, lamp¬ dissipate. The air gap also allows you to
holder design, and what lighting effects get your fingers in to remove the bulb.
you want. It's also best to buy track lights that
accept only standard flood-light bulbs
Track lights are available in a wide variety or spot-light bulbs. These bulbs are
of colors (although the selection seems to easier to find and are less expensive than
be dwindling), with black and white specialty types.
being the most common.
As you shop around, also remember to
think about what kind of lighting effects
you want to achieve. Doing so will help
you pick the right housing and bulb for
the job. There are three types of hous¬
ings. The first is the standard tube

INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 59

 housing most common in homes and is
used for general-purpose or task lighting.
The second type of housing is a reflector
housing, which is used to spread light
over a large area—perfect for work areas.
The third type of housing is the wall
wash, which is used to accent a specific
wall area—to highlight a work of art,
for instance.

The biggest drawback to track lighting is

that you can add lamps that could have
I

varying wattages—and the watts add up

quickly. To be safe and to avoid overheat¬
ing the wiring, I always install track lights
on a 20-amp circuit (12-gauge cable pro¬
tected by a 20-amp fuse or circuit
breaker).

Track layout
Track lighting is versatile because the
tracks can be arranged in a variety
of ways.

Track sections are normally made of alu¬

minum and are available in 2-, 4-, and
8-ft. lengths. They are wired internally
with 12-gauge conductors, and the sec¬
tions can be arranged in any order
imaginable (see the drawings at left):
square, straight, angled, or in the shape
of an L, T, or X. The tracks also come with
a wide variety of connectors to accom¬
modate every layout (see the drawings on
the facing page). The connectors serve
two purposes: to attach track sections
and to bring power to them. When sec¬
tions are fitted with flexible connectors,
they can form almost any angle.

60 CHAPTER FOUR
And if you want to have two different
accent lighting effects in the same area,
track sections are available with two
independent circuits, each one being Live end feeds
controlled by a different switch. This Live end connector and
setup allows you to control the lighting outlet-box cover for outlet-
effects according to your mood. box feed

Standard tracks must sit on a flat surface.

If a wall or ceiling is not flat, the tracks
will reveal gaps underneath. But that
does not mean you cannot install track
Conduit adapter for surface
lights. You can buy special track-light fix¬ wiring
tures that hang from the ceiling.

Installation and wiring

As with other light fixtures, it's important
to follow the manufacturer's instructions
and warnings when installing track lights. Live-end connector feeds
Also remember to turn off power before
track from above with flexible
conduit or BX.
beginning.

Track-lighting installation must be

Track joiners
thought out well in advance because the
feeder cable from the main panel must T-connector joins three
be brought to the exact location the track
tracks.
begins or ends. To bring the cable to the
right location, first lay out the track(s),
then mark where the feeder cable will
connect to the track. (Power is typically
brought into the track through its end or
L-connector joins two
through one of the connectors.) At your tracks for 90° turn.
mark, drill a hole large enough to accept
the track connector, then run the feeder
cable from the main panel (for more on
running cable, see Chapter 3).

Once the cable has been run, attach the

X-connector joins four
track to the ceiling or wall. If you are tracks.
putting the track on a solid surface, such
as wood, you can screw the track directly
to it. But if the surface is drywall, you'll
have to screw the track through the wall
into studs or ceiling joists. If needed,
molly anchors can be used to attach the Flexible connector can be
track to the drywall. adjusted in a variety of
ways, not limited to 90°,
and joins two tracks.

INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 61

 FLUORESCENT LIGHTS
Fluorescent lights are a very efficient
method of illumination, which is one rea¬
son why they are popular. A fluorescent
light provides two to four times the
amount of light that an incandescent
light provides, and the bulbs generally
last a long time.

Choosing fluorescent lights

Your choice of fluorescent light will
depend on what kind of lighting you
need and where it will be located.

If the light is to be located in a workshop

or garage, where appearance is not that
important, buy a fixture without a cover
over the bulbs. It's not very attractive,
To wire a track, remove the
but it works and is less expensive than
cover from the connector
and attach the white wire a fixture that comes with a cover. If you
to the silver terminal, the With that complete, make the connec¬ do opt for the cover, be careful with it
black wire to the gold tions. I find it's easier simply to connect when replacing bulbs because the plastic
terminal, and the ground the wires directly to the track terminals, breaks easily.
wire to the green terminal.
but if there's more than one cable, you
have to install a splice box separate from The most common fixture lengths are
the track. The wiring is pretty basic. 4 ft. and 2 ft. These accommodate bulbs
Remove the cover from the end or the with two pins on each end (see the photo
connector where the cable is entering on the facing page). For larger rooms,
and attach the white wire to the silver you might need 8-ft. fixtures. The bulbs
screw terminal, the black wire to the for the 8-ft. fixtures have a single pin on
gold screw terminal, and the ground each end. Be careful when installing
wire to the green screw terminal (see the these bulbs because they are unwieldy
photo above). and break easily.

Once the connections are made, test For extra light, high-output and very-
the lights. Insert a lamp into the track high-output fixtures and bulbs are avail¬
and lock it in place (most lamps lock by able. These fixtures are perfect for a work
twisting them 90°). Restore power and area or rooms with high ceilings. High-
turn on the switch. Once you are sure output fluorescents have different pin
the system is working, install the rest of arrangements so that their bulbs cannot
the lamps. be accidentally installed in standard
fluorescent fixtures.

Make note that some fluorescent fixtures

come with plug-in cords, which are great
for a quick and easy installation. Simply
install a 120-volt receptacle near the
light. For convenience, power the recep¬
tacle through a switch so that you can
turn the light on and off with it.

62 CHAPTER FOUR
The ballast
Problems with a fluorescent light, such
as flickering or the light not working,
may be caused by the ballast (which is
a transformer inside the fixture). The
ballast is a sensitive component that
raises the voltage high enough to arc
across a filament inside the bulb, which
then excites the gas inside the bulb and
produces light.

A standard ballast won't work well in

cold areas, such as garages and outbuild¬
ings. If you want to put a fluorescent
light in a cold area, make sure you
replace the standard ballast with one
designed for cold weather (this type of
ballast is expensive).
There are three types of
fluorescent bulbs commonly
A standard ballast also overheats easily, used around the house. At
which will shut the light off. On one ser¬ Installation and wiring left is a high-output bulb,
vice call I had to drill holes in the fixture As with all light fixtures discussed in this at center is a standard 4-ft.
to allow heat to dissipate so that the light chapter, follow the manufacturer's rec¬ bulb with two pins, and at
right is an 8-ft. bulb with
would stay on. If the ballast gets too hot, ommendations and warnings when
one pin.
it could melt, leaving a black gummy installing a fluorescent light. There are
residue inside the fixture. two steps to the installation: mounting
and then wiring.
A ballast is also the source of any
annoying buzzing and flickering that A fluorescent light must be mounted
sometimes occurs with a fluorescent securely to a supporting member. It
light. To remove the buzzing or flickering, can be mounted by directly connecting it
you can replace the ballast with an to overhead beams with screws or by
electronic one, which may cost as much hanging it with chains or wire. Never
as or even more than the entire fixture attach the light to the grid frame of a
itself. Added benefits of an electronic dropped ceiling. The weight of the light
ballast are that it operates cooler—it will pull the ceiling down. Once I was
rarely overheats—and is around 30% working in an office where ail the
more efficient than a standard ballast, rectangular light frames were resting on
with double the life expectancy. To the dropped ceiling. One ceiling section
replace a ballast, simply remove the old came loose, causing a light to fall down.
one and splice like wires together—black But that was not the worst of it; All the
to black, white to white. Just make sure other lights attached to the first also fell
the power is off first. like dominoes.

The second step is wiring, which is pretty

simple. First cut off power to the circuit.
Bring the cable (either from the main
panel or from a receptacle or hot switch)

INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 63

 to the light. Then remove the aluminum The biggest problem in wiring a fluores¬
plate that covers the internal wiring and cent light is keeping the internal wires
the ballast. from falling out and getting in the way as
you replace the cover plate. To alleviate
A fluorescent light has internal black and this, I use electrical tape to hold the wires
white wires that connect to the internal along the center of the fixture.
wiring in the ballast and to the end con¬
nection. Simply bring the incoming cable After replacing the cover plate, restore
through a knockout on the fixture and power to the circuit, insert the bulbs, and
connect the incoming black wire to the test the light.
internal black wire, connect the incoming
white wire to the internal white wire, and
attach the ground wire to the grounding
screw (see the drawing above).

64 CHAPTER FOUR
Under-cabinet installation
A common installation for a fluorescent
light is under a kitchen cabinet for close-
up task lighting on the countertop or at
the sink (see the photo at right). For this
use, you'll need to buy a special low-pro¬
file light fixture that is around 1 in. tall.
The shallow height allows the light to be
hidden behind the lip of overhead
kitchen cabinets.

This type of light is screwed into the bot¬

tom of the cabinet, so don't use a screw
that's too long. I did once and wound up
screwing into a heavy wooden platter
inside the cabinet. The wiring process is
the same as previously described.

One last note. Under-cabinet lights can¬ A popular location for

not be wired into the countertop fluorescent light fixtures is
receptacles or even the kitchen, dining, under overhead kitchen
or pantry receptacles. It's a code viola¬ check resistance or continuity. Touch one cabinets. They are perfect
tion. Instead, this type of light should be lead to the threaded base of the bulb and for providing unobtrusive
tied into the kitchen lighting circuit. the other lead to the center contact on task lighting.
Some model energy codes require the the bottom (see the drawing on
fluorescent light to be switched sepa¬ p. 66). if there is little or no resistance
rately from incandescent lights. (a reading of around 10 ohms) or the
meter is buzzing, there is continuity (see
TROUBLESHOOTING the Glossary on p. 146), which means
If your newly installed light is not work¬ the bulb's filament is intact and the bulb
ing, or if you are having problems with is good.
an older light, most often there is trouble
with the bulb or with the wiring of the If the bulb is good, check the fixture next.
switch or fixture, not with the fixture If it is an older fixture, remove the bulb
itself (for more on inspecting receptacles and check the center contact in the
and switches, see Chapter 2), although socket. Sometimes dirt or corrosion can
older fixtures do have problems. To trou¬ build up on the contact. To clean it, turn
bleshoot a light fixture, you'll need a off the power and rub the contact with a
multimeter. With any type of fixture, pencil eraser, being careful not to crush it
check the bulb first. down. Then turn on the power, replace
the bulb, and check the light. Another
Incandescent lights problem with the contact is that it some¬
If you are having trouble with an times gets bent down from use so that it
incandescent light, there are a few no longer touches with the bulb's center
troubleshooting procedures that can be contact. To remedy this, turn the power
done. First, replace the existing bulb with off and use a small screwdriver to bend
a known good bulb or perform a simple the contact up around Vs in. Don't bend
continuity test to check if the bulb is it any more than that because the con¬
good. To do this, set the multimeter to tact may snap off.

INTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 65

 KEN
If the contact is not the source of trouble,
check the switch wiring (see Chapters 2
Incandescent bulbs sometimes If any part of the glass is stick¬ and 3) and the fixture's wiring. If all of
get broken while they are in ing down, the bulb can be re¬ the wiring is good, the fixture is bad and
the fixture, which makes them moved with a potato. Slice a will need to be replaced.
very difficult to remove. I’ve potato in half and push it onto
smashed a few in my time and the broken bulb and twist
Recessed lights
have come up with some ways counterclockwise. If the bulb is
to get the bulb out without As with incandescent lights, when a
not stuck, it should come out.
hurting myself. If the bulb is stuck, grip the recessed light is not working, the first
edge of the threaded base thing to check is the bulb. The procedure
First, make sure there is no with a pair of pliers and turn to is the same as for an incandescent light.
power to the fixture by turning remove the bulb. If you can’t If the bulb is good, check the switch and
off the switch or breaker. (If get a grip on the base, bend it fixture wiring to be sure there are no
you are working on an over¬ in with a screwdriver so that loose connections and to be sure the fix¬
head fixture, wear safety glass¬ you can get the mouth of the ture is wired correctly.
es to keep glass from falling pliers on it.
into your eyes.)
If the bulb and wiring are good, the
problem could be heat buildup. If there is
too much heat, the light will blink or
won't work at all. This is common when
insulation has been placed around or too
close to a non-IC type housing. If you
find that this is the problem, remove the
insulation immediately—it must be at
least 3 in. from the housing.

66 CHAPTER FOUR
Excessive heat can damage the insulation Sometimes it will be obvious that the
on the wires and even the socket. In ballast has gone bad. Look for a black
some cases the wires and socket can be liquid seeping out of it. If you have to
replaced—other times the entire unit will replace the ballast, make sure it matches
have to be replaced. the fixture. Replacing the ballast will cost
about the same as a whole new fixture.
Track lights Because the cost is the same, how to fix
There's not much to troubleshooting the problem is a question of labor. Do
track lights because there is no internal you want to spend a lot of time replacing
wiring to check and overall they are the whole fixture, or would you rather
pretty reliable. However, if you are having spend a shorter period of time replacing
trouble with the lights, first check the just the ballast?
bulb so see if it is good. If the bulb is not
the problem, make sure the lamp is If the fixture is giving off a loud buzzing
secured in the track correctly. noise, you can try changing the bulbs.
But you'll probably have to change the
Fluorescent lights ballast, and even that won't guarantee
Fluorescent fixtures have an assortment against buzzing. The only ballast that will
of problems—typically indicated by a guarantee no buzz is an electronic one,
flickering light—that are caused by either which is expensive. (For more on ballasts,
the bulb or the ballast. see p. 63.)

First check the bulb. If a bad bulb isn't Some fluorescent fixtures have a starter,
replaced and allowed to continuously which is a small cylindrical can located in
flicker, it may ruin the ballast. First rotate front of the unit. If the bulb is flickering
or jiggle the bulbs to verify that the pins or not working, it could mean that the
are properly inserted into the sockets. If starter has gone bad. To remove the
that doesn't do the trick, check to see if starter, push it in slightly, then turn it
the end sockets are broken or cracked. If counterclockwise.
they are intact, make sure they haven't
pulled so far apart that the bulb's pins If you are still experiencing problems after
aren't making contact with the sockets. If all these checks, verify that the wiring has
all appears okay, try replacing the bulb been done correctly.
with a known good one.

If the unit still doesn't work after replac¬

ing the bulb, remove the cover plate to
expose the internal wiring. Use a multi¬
meter to measure the voltage to the unit
across the black and white wires bringing
in power. If the meter reads 120 volts,
the wiring is good, which means the
problem most likely lies with the ballast.

IHTERIOR LIGHT FIXTURES 67

 5
€>irs-eo€«
I.I6MT XTUriSS

My friend couldn't believe his eyes. He motion detectors, low-voltage landscape

was proudly showing off the new motion lights, or post lights. I will also show you
detector he had just installed, but as I how and where to install each type of
approached it, the light didn't turn on. I light for optimum performance.
even walked right up to it, and the light
still didn't go on. Although my friend QUALITY FIRST
wired the motion detector properly, he According to Woody Crenshaw, a light¬
made the common error of mounting it ing expert and owner of Crenshaw
in the wrong location for it to sense Lighting in Floyd, Virginia, there are four
movement. It just goes to show that out¬ things to look for when buying any type
door lighting requires more thought than of high-quality, heavy-duty outdoor fix¬
just which wire goes where. ture. First, all metal parts should be made
of nonferrous material (nonferrous means
Wiring an outdoor light is pretty simple: no iron) to keep them from rusting or
bring the cable to the light's location, corroding. Second, the bulb socket
install a box, if necessary, and splice the should have a brass or copper shell.
wires (for more on running cable and Aluminum sockets tend to corrode,
splicing, see Chapter 3). What makes making the bulb almost impossible to
installing an outdoor light fixture tricky, get out. Third, the see-through material
though, is choosing the right light for the should be glass or UV-stabilized plastic—
job—whether it's for security, for general not Lexan or styrene. And fourth, solid
illumination, or simply for aesthetics— brass is always better than plated brass.
and locating the fixture so that it does
its job well. Also, you can’t just install any light out¬
side. It must be watertight and approved
Along with those considerations, you also for such. The two UL classifications for
You can buy heavy-duty,
custom-made entry lights have to think about the quality, initial outdoor lights are wet and damp. Wet is
that will stand up to any cost, operating costs, the color of the for lights that will be installed in full
abuse the weather throws light, and its maintenance (keeping it weather—rain, snow, and sleet. Damp is
at them. This heavy-duty accessible for bulb changing). In this for those lights that are outside but
fixture was made by
chapter I will discuss all of these issues, installed under some type of shelter like
Crenshaw Lighting of
with the goal of helping you choose the the eave of a roof.
Floyd, Virginia.
right outdoor fixtures for your needs—
whether they are entry lights, floodlights.

68
 It’s standard procedure to install In this situation, it may be advis¬
Making a Surface Level
a wall-mounted exterior fixture able to hire a carpenter to make
on an electrical box—either with¬ a fancy base for you that will al¬
Take a matching piece of
in the wall or on the surface. low the fixture to be plumb to the
siding and invert it on the
wall and flush to the siding. existing siding.
If you choose to install the box
within the wall, the front of it Another option is to grab a piece
must be flush to the siding of the beveled siding and invert it
surface. This is not difficult if on the installed siding to make a
you have flat siding, such as flat area (see the drawing at
board and batten or T-111. But if right). If the house has vinyl sid¬
you have beveled siding, it’s not ing, you can buy an adapter that
so easy—the angled surfaces of will allow the fixture to sit flat on
the siding won’t match the flat the exterior.
surfaces of the box.
If you want to install a fixture on
I prefer to mount exterior fixtures the surface of a masonry wall,
on boxes mounted on the siding you can easily drill a hole for the
Itself because it’s easier—you cable and mount a box using ma¬
won’t have to cut the siding sonry anchors. But if you intend
around the box—but the same to install a flush-mounted box
problem remains: how to deal within the wall, you’ll have to
with angled surfaces. chip out the masonry so that box
and wires will fit within the wall.
For some fixtures, such as flood¬
lights located high on the house, For some installations, such as
it’s okay if they sit at an angle outside incandescent floodlights,
because they aren’t that visible. it may be appropriate to mount
But for other fixtures, such as the fixture under the eaves. Sim¬
entry lights that are easily ply bring the cable out of the sof¬
seen, mounting on an angle fit, install the appropriate box,
will look terrible. and attach the fixture.

ENTRY LIGHTS few years of exposure to the weather. I

Entry lights are typically used to provide installed cheap entry lights near the slid¬
general lighting at a doorway. The type ing doors on my deck. After only two
of fixture you choose will depend on your years, they rusted and looked like they
tastes and on the architecture of your went through a war. I replaced them with
house, but it's important that you not heavy-duty lights handcrafted from a cus¬
choose the cheapest avaiiable. tom lighting shop (see the photo on the
facing page).
Because an entrylight (or any other out¬
door fixture) is exposed to the weather, You don't have to spend a ton of money
you should check if there's a warranty on custom lights, but you should spend
on the finished surface. Some low-cost the extra buck to get a quality fixture.
units will rust and tarnish after only a

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 69

 Installation Once the fixture has been installed,
The trickiest part of installing an entry restore power and test the light. (If you
light is mounting it. You'll need a level are installing a switch for the fixture, see
surface, so if the building has beveled or Chapter 3 for information on wiring it.)
irregular siding, you'll need to do some
extra work (for more on mounting exte¬ FLOODLIGHTS
rior fixtures, see the sidebar on p. 69). Floodlights are used to illuminate large,
wide areas of the property. The most
Once you have a flat surface on which common floodlights on the market today
to mount the fixture, run the cable, are incandescent, quartz halogen, and
pulling it through the exterior wall, and high-intensity discharge (HID). The
install the appropriate box (for more on biggest differences between the three
boxes, see Chapter 4). Then, after verify¬ are the amount of illumination provided
ing that power is off, simply attach like and the cost of the fixture.
wires (black to black, white to white),
ground the fixture, and mount the fix¬ Incandescent
ture. It's that easy. Incandescent floodlights are the most
commonly installed and can handle a
variety of wattage bulbs, from 75 watts
to 150 watts (see the photo at left).

Incandescent fixtures are normally

equipped with one to three articulating
arms that hold the bulb sockets (make
sure you choose a fixture that accepts
standard screw-in floodlight bulbs). The
arms allow you to adjust each bulb to any
angle so as to illuminate a large area or a
smaller area. For example, if you were to
mount a unit with three arms on a house
corner, one bulb can light one side of the
house, the center bulb can cover the cor¬
ner, and the third bulb can cover the
adjacent corner of the house. If you need
a lot of illumination at one spot in the

An incandescent floodlight can project light in three different yard, all three bulbs can be positioned to
directions for wide coverage or at one spot for bright, shine on that location.
concentrated illumination.
Incandescent floodlights are inexpensive
to purchase, but they are more costly to
operate than quartz-halogen or HID
floodlights because they draw more cur¬
rent. However, if they are on only for
short periods of time, such as to illumi¬
nate a parking area for company, the cost
of operating them isn't significant.

Incandescent floodlights have other

drawbacks besides their operating costs.
Most of the problems have to do with

70 CHAPTER FIVE
 Quartz-halogen floodlights
use one-third the energy
that incandescent flood¬
lights use and provide
better illumination.

the bulbs, which tend to burn out quickly

and so need frequent replacennent. Also,
it's easy to twist the bulb free of its base
as you screw it into the fixture socket if
you tighten too much (this happened to
me just the other day).

When buying floodlight bulbs, be sure to

get those rated for the outside, not heat
lamps—they look a lot alike.

Quartz halogen
Quartz-halogen floodlights cost more This quartz-halogen bulb
than incandescent floodlights but use blew out on its right side.
around a third of the energy that incan¬
descent floodlights use. Quartz-halogen worklight, and the intense heat melted
floodlights are being used by both homes the cord's insulation. It's also a good idea
and businesses because of their massive not to drape anything flammable, such as
amount of brilliant, natural, color-correct, a flag, near the front of the fixture.
white light (see the photo above).
For residential units, you can get 300-,
The biggest problem with quartz-halogen 400-, or 500-watt bulbs, and 1,000-watt

floodlights is that th^y give off a lot of bulbs are available for large commercial

heat, so they should not be located fixtures. The bulbs are supposed to last
where people could touch them. I once around 2,000 hours, but my experience
left an extension cord lying about iVi in. has been that they last significantly less

in front of a portable quartz-halogen than that.

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 71

 When replacing a quartz-halogen bulb, In addition to providing more illumina¬
always be sure the power is off and never tion, HID bulbs last about 12 times longer
touch the new bulb with your fingers. than quartz-halogen bulbs—around
Your fingers will leave oil and moisture 24,000 hours—and can be screwed into
on the surface of the bulb, which could the fixture's sockets.
cause the bulb to explode when the light
is turned on. Wear gloves or use a clean However, these floodlights do have some
rag, and for added protection, wear drawbacks. One of the biggest is that
safety glasses. they have poor color definition—normally
yellow-orange—which some people find
High-intensity discharge unattractive and unsuitable for residential
HID floodlights are very popular for area lighting. Also, HID floodlights give off a
illumination (see the photo below). They lot of heat, like quartz halogens. They
work especially well for parking areas and need to be mounted out of reach so that
outside security lighting. HID floodlights people cannot get burned, and you
are more economical to operate than should not drape anything flammable
quartz-halogen floodlights because they near the front of the fixture.
High-intensity discharge current while providing six times
floodlights provide 12 times the illumination, And unlike quartz-halogen and incandes¬
the illumination of quartz-
cent floodlights, which provide instant
halogen floodlights and
illumination, HID fixtures need about
have low operational costs.
three to four minutes to warm up.

Installation
Incandescent, quartz-halogen, and HID
floodlights are normally 120 volts, and
the installation procedures are pretty
much the same for each. It's standard
practice to mount the fixture on an elec¬
trical box—either within the wall or on
the outside (see the sidebar on p. 69).
But because floodlights are typically
mounted high up and are not very visible,
you don't have to be picky about getting
the fixture to sit flat if you have irregular
or beveled siding.

Because a floodlight's beam begins nar¬

row and widens as it moves away from
the fixture, it needs to be mounted high
to provide the most illumination for large
areas, such as driveways, yards, and park¬
ing lots. (Try not to illuminate a bedroom
window at the same time.) And remem¬
ber, the higher you mount the light, the
higher wattage bulb you'll need to illumi¬
nate the area.

72 CHAPTER FIVE
 The worst part about installing flood- access to the power when troubleshoot¬
■ lights is that you normally have to be on ing the circuit (see the right drawing on
a ladder, which makes the job difficult, at p. 44). And the less wires you have to
best. For instance, I recently installed a fiddle with 20 ft. to 30 ft. off the ground,
HID floodlight just below the eave of a the better.
I two-story house, which tested my abili-
I ties as a contortionist. To keep both my MOTION DETECTORS
I hands free, I had to twist a temporary A motion detector is normally installed
I

support wire around the fixture base and for security and has a sensor that turns
hang it dangling below its intended loca¬ on the lights when it senses heat and
tion while 1 locked my legs around the movement (see the photo below).
ladder rungs and connected the wires.
The lighting loads are limited to around
Most floodlights have only three wires— 500 watts. Don't exceed this limit, or you
black (hot), white (neutral), and a green could overheat the fixture and the wires.
or bare ground. With only one feeder Most motion detectors allow you to con¬
cable, the wires are simply spliced to like trol how long the light will remain on
wires in the feeder cable. (If the box is once movement has ceased and have a
metal, ground it.) Be sure the power manual override for testing.
is off before you begin working!

If you need to power another light on the

same circuit, wire them in parallel. This
means there will be an incoming cable
and an outgoing cable, and the black,
white, and ground wires will be spliced
together with pigtails going to the light.
It's similar to how a receptacle would be
wired in parallel (see p. 39).

Sometimes the power cable will be

brought to the light and another cable
will be run to the switch. In cases like
this, the white neutral wire is spliced
directly to the light's neutral. The black
feeder wire is spliced to the white wire in
the cable to the switch, becoming the
hot feeder for the switch (tape it black to
indicate it's hot). Then the black wire of
that cable is the switched power to the
light and is spliced to the black wire on A motion detector is equipped with a sensor (bottom of photo) that
turns on the lights when it senses heat and movement.
the fixture. All the grounds are spliced
together (see the left drawing on p. 44).

However, this should only be done when

replacing a light'on an existing circuit. In
a new circuit, I prefer to take the power
cable to the switch box first and then run
another cable to the light, so I have easy

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 73

 Motion-Sensor Adapter

With this type of base (left),

almost any light can be
converted to a motion detector.
Simply remove the light
arm from the base of the
existing light and attach it to
this one. The sensor on the
right is attached to a separate
light base and can be used to
control power to almost any
type of light.

You can convert almost any out¬ sor’s black wire. The sensor’s almost any color (except white
door light fixture to a motion¬ feed, or output, wire (normally or green), but it’s normally red.
sensing light with a motion¬ red) is spliced to the light’s black Splice this wire to the lamp’s
sensing kit. One version is simply wire, and all neutrals (white) are black wire.
a motion sensor that is cut into spliced together.
the circuit. Another version has After making the splices, mount
the motion sensor mounted in a If you bought an adapter kit that the new base to the existing
fixture base. has the sensor mounted in the mounting box, and you’re fin¬
fixture base, here’s how to hook ished. Instructions that come
To install the simple motion sen¬ it up. First, make sure the light with the new unit tell you how to
sor (right in photo above), first switch is off, then remove the ex¬ test it. Be sure to turn the power
find a spot for it. Then cut into isting light base from the wall, switch back on before doing so.
the feeder cable of the light fix¬ leaving only the mounting box
ture (you may have to run a and the feeder cable. Before you buy either of these
separate cable from the sensor kits, note the wattage limitations
to the light’s cable). The light Unscrew the old lamp from the of the sensor and make sure it
fixture will then be controlled old base and screw it onto the exceeds that of the lamp wattage
by the sensor. new base. Splice the feeder ca¬ you want to use. For example,
ble to the wiring of the new base you don’t want a sensor that is
Once you have chosen the loca¬ by matching like colors—black to good for only 700 watts control¬
tion of the sensor, the wiring is black, white to white, and ground ling lamps that total 1,000 watts.
pretty simple. The incoming to ground. The sensor output
black wire is spliced to the sen¬ wire in the new base can be

74 CHAPTER Fi¥E
You can pay anywhere from $25 to $75
for a motion detector. Better models have
Locating a,Motion Detector
adjustable sensitivity of around 15 ft. to Not ideal
75 ft., and more deluxe models detect
movement as close as 3 ft. Be sure you
get a unit that has sensitivity controls so
that you can adjust for cats, dogs, rac¬
coons, and swaying branches. And make
sure the unit has instructions in the box—
there are a few models that don't. You'll
need instructions to learn how to test,
operate, and troubleshoot the unit.

The sensor on the fixture normally sam¬

ples a 110° view, but some models
sample a 360° view.

It's also possible to buy motion-detector

adapter kits that can be attached to
almost any type of outside light (see the
sidebar on the facing page).

Installation
Motion detectors have the dubious dis¬
tinction of being the most misinstalled of
all light fixtures. They are invariably
installed too high and/or in the wrong
spot to detect motion.

The fixture should be mounted no higher

than 12 ft. above the ground (for more
on mounting fixtures, see the sidebar on
p. 69). The higher the unit is installed,
the less sensitive the unit will be to
motion. You should also locate the unit
away from heat sources, such as a heat
pump, and away from reflective surfaces,
such as windows or pools, which could
cause the unit to malfunction.

Although it may seem logical to face the

sensor into the direction of the area to be
monitored, it's not the correct way to
mount it. A motion detector uses fingers
of detection (called lobes) that project
Mount the motion deteotor no more than 12 ft. above the ground and
from the unit and sefise motion when locate it so that motion outs across the lobes of detection. Locating the
something cuts across them (see the unit straight into the target area may allow someone to walk up to the
drawings at right). If the unit is installed house undetected through a dead zone.
directly in front of the motion area, it is
possible to walk all the way up to the

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 75

 sensor and not trigger the lights if you
walk between the lobes. The fixture must
be mounted at right angles to the area
you want to monitor so that people must
walk through the lobes. If installed for
security, you might consider more than
one unit at angles to each other to gain
more coverage.

Once you have the unit at the correct

location, run the cable to it and hook it
up. You should wire the light through a
I

switch (for more on wiring switches, see

Chapter 3) so that it can be turned on
and off for maintenance. The wiring is
simple because there are just two wires
to hook up: black and white (see the
photo at left). All the other wires are
internal. Connect them to like wires in
the cable (for more on splicing, see
p. 40), and you're finished. Most units
are now plastic so there won't be a
ground. If you have a metal box, attach
the ground wire to it; otherwise, simply
fold the ground wire back.

After wiring, test the fixture. First turn on

the light using the test switch to see if it's
wired correctly. Then test the sensor (fol¬
low the instructions that came with the
unit). Have someone stand in the sensing
area and wave his arms to see if it's
angled correctly, then have him walk
through the lobes at different areas so
you can adjust the sensitivity settings and
A motion detector is easy to wire: splice black to black and white to
adjust the angle of the sensor if needed.
white. All the rest is wired at the factory. There is no ground
because the unit is plastic.
POST LIGHTS
Post lights are popular decorator items
around driveways and sidewalks and can
provide safe illumination of these areas
for guests. When a post light is equipped
with a photo sensor (which turns the
light on when darkness falls), this type
of light makes an attractive alternative to
standard switched outside lighting.

76 CHAPTER FIVE
Older models, and some of the heavy- and must be rated for such use: Look
duty ones, will have posts of painted for cable that is labeled UF, for under¬
aluminum. But today most residential ground feed.
post lights have plastic posts and plastic
light housings because they are less Bring the cable out of the house and bury
expensive to manufacture and are safer it along its run to the post light (seal
because they are nonconductive. (If you around the hole with caulk to keep
are installing or rewiring a post light that insects and moisture out of the house).
has a metal post, it must be grounded.) How deep you bury the cable depends on
In general, how much you pay will ulti¬ whether the circuit is protected by a
mately depend on the style of the fixture ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) or
and on the manufacturer. not, although local codes may vary. If it
is—and I recommend GFCI protection for
Installation safety—most codes say the cable can be
To install a post light, you need to run a buried 6 in. However, to avoid cutting the
cable from the switch inside the house cable when planting shrubbery, I think it's
to the outside (see the drawing below). a good idea to bury it at least 12 in.
By code, the cable needs to be buried deep. (If there's an outlet on the post, the

Wiring a Post Light

To light fixture

Neutral

Sensor—motion
or dusk to dawn

Ground

Seal hole In Incoming power

concrete with
caulk.

Cable rated for

underground
use

* with a GFCI-protected circuit, the Plastic posts don’t need to

cable can be run about 6 in. deep, be grounded, but metal
but 12 in. is better to avoid hitting the posts do.
cable when planting.

OyTOOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 77

 circuit must be protected by a GFCI). If sensor with an on/off switch, a timer with
the circuit is not GFCI protected, the an on/off switch, or it could have a com¬
cable nnust be buried 2 ft., and some bination of these.
municipalities require it to be deeper.
When buying the kit or the transformer,
Bring the cable to the bottom of the make sure the transformer can supply
post, which is hollow, and pull it up to enough wattage for the number of lamps
the top. Then secure the post in the you want. Simply add up all the wattage
ground so that it will not tip over. How it bulbs that will be on the circuit and then
is secured is always left to the discretion buy the transformer that is slightly above
of the installer, but the post is normally that number (at least 10%). If the
buried around 2 ft. deep, with the earth wattage exqeeds that of the transformer,
solidly compacted around it. You can pro¬ break the system up into two or more
vide extra support with a concrete base, independent circuits. For example,
but this is not typically required. instead of having one transformer feed¬
ing 20 lamps, have two transformers
Splicing is done in the hollow post, and feed 10 lamps each.
making the connections is pretty easy
(see the drawing on p. 77). Simply splice Bulbs can be halogen or incandescent.
all like wires: black to black, white to Most manufacturers sell light kits with
white, and ground to ground. If there is low-wattage bulbs—4 to 11 watts—but
no ground wire to connect to and the you can install 75-watt incandescent
post is metal, ground the metal. bulbs for more light. If you plan on using
the higher-wattage bulbs, you can't use
LOW-VOLTAGE 14-gauge wire because it could overheat.
LANDSCAPE LIGHTS Instead, use 10- or 12-gauge wires (for
Low-voltage landscape lights are a great more on wire gauge, see p. 15).
method of providing accent lighting in a
yard, and they are easy to install. There are many styles of landscape lights
available, and which you choose will
Landscape lights can be purchased at depend on what is to be illuminated and
most any home center and come with a what type of lighting effects you are
transformer (which is plugged or wired looking for. First decide what must be
into a 120-volt supply), four to six lights, illuminated. Is it a driveway, a sidewalk,
and the wire (which can be 14 to 10 steps, a patio, trees, ground cover, a
gauge). The kit will cost anywhere from pond, shrubbery, a sign, a statue, or even
$50 to $100. You can also buy the pieces a fence? Once you've determined what is
individually. to be illuminated, next decide on the
lighting effect (see the drawings on the
The transformer takes the 120 volts and facing page). Some examples are silhou¬
lowers it to a safer 12 volts. Because the ette lighting, shadowing, spotlighting,
voltage is low enough not to harm a per¬ spread lighting, path lighting, security
son, the wires can be run on the ground lighting, and traffic lighting.
or buried in a shallow trench. The trans¬
former has a manual on/off switch to For accent, spot, or spread lighting, the
power the low-voltage lights, a photo goal is to highlight the desired object
without overlighting it. For path, traffic.
Outdoor Lighting Effects

Silhouetting Shadowing

Locate the light behind the object to be silhouetted and Place the light in front of the object to be shadowed.
close to it. To create the effect, shine the light onto a Shine the light on the object to create a shadow on a
vertical surface. vertical surface.

Spotlighting Spread lighting

Draw attention to a specific item in the yard, such as a Set the light low near ground covers or low shrubbery to
statue, by beaming the light directly onto it. create symmetrical patterns of light to highlight their
shapes, colors, or textures.

Path lighting

Security lighting

Set the light Io\n to create symmetrical patterns of light

to illuminate pathways, sidewalks, borders, and steps.
The effect is that of an airport runway.

Traffic lighting

Security lighting is best created by combining low-level

lighting, such as traffic and path lighting, and high-level
lighting, such as spotlighting. The result is a well-lit yard
with lights that are not harsh or glaring.

Traffic lighting combines spread and path

lighting. Set the lights higher and group them to
illuminate entire walkways, patios, or gardens.

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 79

and security lighting, the object is to pro¬ the voltage drop to less than 2 volts. If
vide continuous lighting or pools of light you are using halogen lamps, keep the
over an area. Once you are sure of the voltage drop to below 1.2 volts. To mini¬
lighting effect you want, buy a lighting mize the voltage drop, plan for shorter
kit that will achieve the desired result and cable runs or use heavier-gauge wire to
that will blend into your landscape. deliver more voltage.

Installation Here's how to calculate voltage drop:

Installing low-voltage landscape lights is
quite simple. In most cases, the lights 1. Add up all lamp wattages.
themselves are mounted on stakes that
are driven into the ground. Then it's a 2. Multiply fhe total wattage by the
simple matter of plugging in the trans¬ length of wire and then divide that num¬
former to a receptacle. ber by the cable constant to find the
voltage drop. (The cable constant is a
If the transformer is plugged into an out¬ number given by the manufacturer that
door receptacle, the outlet must be incorporates the resistance of the wiring.)
covered with a watertight, while-in¬ The cable constants for 14-, 12-, and
use cover. This type of cover looks like 10-gauge wire are 3,500, 7,500, and
a large bubble around the receptacle and 11,920, respectively.
allows the transformer to be plugged
into the outlet while the cover is closed For example, say you have a 100-ft.
(you can get them at hardware stores). length of 12-gauge wire powering five
Such a cover keeps rain away from both 27-watt lights. Plug the numbers into
the transformer and the receptacle the formula;
(which must be GFCI protected). If the
transformer is so large that it prevents (5 x27)x 100/7,500 = 1.8 volts.
the cover from closing completely, it
must be kept inside (but it still requires That means the voltage drop is 1.8, and
GFCI protection). the lights will receive 10.2 volts, which is
within the recommended range but not
It's very important that you minimize the ideal. To lessen the drop, use heavier-
voltage drop (the amount of voltage lost gauge wire or shorten the run of wire.
along a conductor from the power source
to the load) along the wire run. The volt¬ TROUBLESHOOTING
age drop will decrease the amount of Troubleshooting exterior light fixtures fol¬
illumination delivered by the lights. For lows the same logic as troubleshooting
instance, if the lights are supposed to interior fixtures. Often, if your fixture
receive 12 volts for full illumination, and came with instructions (unfortunately,
they are only receiving 10 volts (a drop of most don't), it will provide troubleshoot¬
2 volts), the lights will operate at only ing directions for that specific light. But
partial illumination. It is advisable to keep here are a few general guidelines.

If the lights just don't work, check the

bulb first. Remove the existing bulb and
replace it with a known good bulb (for
more on troubleshooting light fixtures, circuit) across its two terminals when the
see Chapter 4). If the bulb works, the switch is in the on position and no conti¬
existing bulb is bad. nuity (an open circuit) when the switch is
in the off position.
If the problem is not with the bulb, check
the center contact in the socket to be If you know the switch is working, the
sure it is not pushed down too far or cov¬ next step is to check the fixture's wiring
ered with dirt or corrosion. You can bend and verify that it has power. To do so,
the contact back up about Vs in., but remove the fixture from its box to get to
don't bend it too far or it could break. If the wire splice. Temporarily hang the fix¬
you see dirt on the contact, clean it with ture adjacent to the box with a piece of
a pencil eraser. Make sure power is off wire. Look at the splices and note if they
for either of these operations. are loose or tight. Remove the wire nuts
and look closer. With the switch on, mea¬
If the light is wired through a motion sure the voltage from hot to neutral (the
sensor separate from the lights, check meter should read 120 volts across the
the wiring to it and check to see if the black and white wires). If the voltage is
settings are correct (refer to the instruc¬ 120 volts, the problem is not with the
tions that came with the unit to find wires to the fixture. It is with the fixture,
specifics about troubleshooting). These which probably needs replacement.
sensors can go bad and may need to be
replaced. If the motion sensor is part of If you have a post light that's not work¬
the fixture, check the settings and try ing, first check to see if a breaker or the
replacing the sensor. GFCI has tripped. If neither has, check
the bulb. If the bulb is good, remove the
Before buying a new sensor, though, first light head from the post and use a multi¬
check that the switch is working properly. meter to verify that it is receiving power.
Simply measure the voltage across its two
terminals with a multimeter (for more on If the lamp is not receiving power, and
troubleshooting switches, see Chapter 3). you have checked the breaker and GFCI,
This can be done with the switch still in the problem most likely lies with the light
the box and the power on (but be very sensor on the post. This type of sensor
careful). Remove the cover plate and does go bad. To test the sensor, you must
place one probe on one screw and the first verify that it has power—120 volts
second probe on the other. To avoid across the incoming black and white
shorting out the probes on the sides of a wires. Under normal daylight conditions,
metal box, add electrical tape to the the sensor will have power going to it
metal part of the probes, except for the and no power coming out of it. To see
tip. The voltage should be around if the sensor works, cover the sensor
120 volts when the switch is off and head with a couple of layers of black
close to zero when the switch is on. electrical tape. Wait a few minutes for
the photocell to sense the loss of light
You can also check the switch while and then measure the output voltage—
power is off, but the multimeter will normally across a red wire and the
have to function as a continuity tester. white wire. No power means a bad pho¬
Take the switch out of the box and tocell. If you do measure voltage, the
remove one of the two wires on the wiring or the socket is bad and will need
switch's screw terminals before testing to be replaced.
to eliminate any false readings. The
switch should have continuity (a closed

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES 81

 6
CEiyNG PANS

A couple years ago I was called out to a unit, the space of the room it will be
home to repair a ceiling fan gone wild. located in, the blades, the motor, and
When the fan was running, the home- the accessories that come with it or
owner said, it wobbled so violently that that can be added.
the blades were hitting the ceiling.
"Yeah, right. Hitting the ceiling," I Price and looks
thought. "Probably just a ploy to get There are a lot of cheap ceiling fans out
me out to the house faster." there, but remember, you get what you
pay for. That's why I recommend paying a
When I arrived at the house and turned little more for a ceiling fan to get one
on the fan to see the problem for myself, that will last, instead of going for the
my eyes bulged and my jaw dropped. I cheapest price and having to replace the
was looking up at the ceiling fan in fan a few years down the road.
action. It was installed on a vaulted ceil¬
ing and was swinging so far that it was Be sure you like the looks of the fan,
chopping chunks out of the ceiling. I because it will be a prominent addition to
turned off the fan immediately, but a room. You may want the fan to match
not before small pieces of the ceiling the decor, or you may want something
hit the floor. different. For instance, when my cheap
living-room fans went bad (yep, I made
I immediately knew what the problem the mistake of going for the lowest
was, and it wasn't with the wiring. The price), I wanted to replace them with
fan was slightly unbalanced, and the something that didn't look like an ordi¬
drop pipe (the supporting rod from the nary pancake-style fan (one with a flat
ceiling to the fan) was too short, allowing housing near the ceiling).
the blades to hit the vaulted ceiling.
I wanted something old-fashioned and
CHOOSING A FAN more ornate, and that's what I bought
When shopping for a fan, there's a lot (see the photo on p. 84). Now, instead of
more to think about other than how just walking under the fans in the room,
much it costs and how it looks. I'm not people gaze up, admiring them. There
saying to ignore these two criteria. I'm are many ceiling-fan designs out there,
just suggesting to add a few more. You and you should have no problem finding
must also consider the warranty of the one to suit your tastes.

82
 R Cooling, Winter Warming

A ceiling fan doesn’t have to be forcing it down again (see the warm air trapped at the ceiling
put to rest during the winter top drawing below). The cooling down to living areas (see the bot¬
months. A reversible ceiling fan effect provided by this down- tom drawing below). The fan can
not only provides cool breezes in ward-flowing air is large enough be switched to its lowest speed
the summer, but it also helps to allow the air-conditioning ther¬ setting and its rotation reversed
move warm air In the winter. mostat to be raised by 6° to 8°, to pull air up and then push down
cutting air-conditioning costs by the warm air. Running the fan in
In the summer the fan cools by as much as 40%. this manner will distribute heat
pulling air up along the cool ex¬ better, which can save 5% to
terior walls, bringing it to the In the winter, a ceiling fan can 10% on heating costs.
center of the room, and then help keep you warm by moving

Summer cooling

The fan cools by

pulling air up along
the exterior walls,
bringing it to the
oenter of the room,
and then forcing It
down.

Winter warming

With the fan in

reverse mode and
set on low speed,
warm air trapped at
the oeiling is
circulated down¬
ward along the
exterior walls.

ft

CEILING FANS 83
 proposed location. The blades need to be
a minimum of 7 ft. from the floor and
18 in. from walls. You don't want to
knock people in the head as they walk
under the blades, and you don't want the
blades to hit a wall.

Also, almost all fans come with a three-

speed reversible motor (see the sidebar
on p. 83). The speeds are adjusted using
a pull chain, and the reversing switch is
normally mounted on the side of the
housing. If the unit is to be mounted on a
high ceiling, you won't be able to reach
these controls easily. In a situation like
this, you may be better off choosing a
unit with a remote control or wall-
mounted controls (see p. 86).

Blades
The goal of buying a fan is, of course, to
move air, and I don't recommend buying
a fan that doesn't list how much air it can
move. Air movement is measured in cubic
feet per minute (cfm). The higher the
cfm, the more air the fan can move.

The blades and motor combine to move

air. When thinking about the blades, con¬
sider what they are made of, their
weight, their size, and their pitch. Blades
You don't have to stick with
plain ceiling-fan designs. should be solid wood and sealed to pre¬
There are a lot of options vent moisture from warping the wood. (If
available, like this replica the blade warps, the fan will wobble.)
of a unit from the late Warranty Most manufacturers put a different finish
1800s made by Hunter. Be sure that the fan you choose has a on each side of the blade, allowing you
good warranty. A 20-year to lifetime to flip the blades to alternate colors and
warranty is very good. If the company finishes or to keep them the same.
doesn't offer a long warranty, there
might be a reason why. Just as car tires need to be balanced
for smooth operation, fan blades need
Space requirements balance as well. That means the
When choosing a ceiling fan, you also blades should be close in weight (within
must consider both the size of the room 1 gram is a good tolerance). If the blades
and the size of the fan to be installed. Be are not close in weight, the fixture will
sure the fan is large enough to move air wobble. You can get small weights from
in the room it will be located in (see the the manufacturer to add to blades to
drawings on the facing page). And be balance them (I know some people who
certain you have enough headroom in its have taped pennies on the blades to

84 CHAPTER SIX
balance them). But it's better to buy a
unit with quality blades that are balanced
Sizing a Fan
from the start.

Use a 52-in. fan

Be sure the blades are large enough to for rooms up to
move air efficiently within the room 400 sq. ft.
(see the drawings at right). Fans have
diameters ranging from 32 in. to 52 in.
For a room with an 8-ft. ceiling, follow
these guidelines: Choose a 52-in. fan
for rooms up to 400 sq. ft.; a 44-in.
fan for rooms up to 225 sq. ft.; a
42-in. fan for rooms up to 144 sq. ft.;
and a 32-in. fan for rooms up to
64 sq. ft. Larger rooms and rooms with
higher ceilings may require more than
one fan.

Also be sure the blades have sufficient

pitch (angle of the blade) to move air. Use a 44-in. fan
for rooms up to
Without sufficient pitch, the blades just 225 sq. ft.
turn without moving air. For maximum air
movement, I recommend buying a unit
with a blade pitch of 15° to 16°. Thirteen
degrees is a more conservative pitch, with
1 r being typical for a cheaper, poor-
quality ceiling fan. A good 52-in. blade
with a 15° pitch can move air at a whop¬
ping rate of 6,900 cfm.

Motor Use a 42-in. fan

The motor is the heart of the fan, and as I for rooms up to
mentioned before, it works together with
144 sq. ft.

the blades to move air.

You want a large, powerful motor

built for many years of hard, quiet,
maintenance-free operation. Look for a
motor that is cast iron (see the top photo
on p. 86), which will draw heat away
from the electrical windings so that they Use a 32-in.
do not overheat. The weight of a cast- fan for rooms
iron motor will also help prevent the fan up to 64 sq. ft.

from wobbling.

Be sure the motor has'sealed ball bear¬

ings (on both sides) that are permanently
lubricated. If sealed on only one side, dirt These are guideiines for rooms with 8-ft. oeiiings. Larger rooms and
rooms with higher oeiiings may require more than one fan.
and dust could get into the bearings and
destroy them.

CEILING FANS 85
 When buying a fan, don't let a salesper¬
son talk you into buying one simply
based on its speed, or revolutions per
minute (rpm). The rpm rating of the fan is
not as important as the amount of air it
moves (cfm rating).

It is hard to know the quality of the

motor before you buy the product (you
can't slice open the housing to see the
inside). But it pays to ask questions,
either of the dealer or manufacturer.
Also, make sure the motor is covered by
a good warranty. If it isn't, beware.

Accessories
There are two accessories available that
can add to the convenience and cost of a
ceiling fan: remote-control mechanisms
and light kits.

Remote controls are the newest trend in

ceiling-fan accessories (see the bottom
The motor of this fan, made by Hunter, is cast iron, which makes it
almost indestructible. The motor also serves as a heat sink and has photo at left). They allow you to turn the
sealed, lubricated ball bearings to ensure a long life. (Photo fan on and off and adjust its speed and
courtesy of Hunter Fan.) direction from anywhere in the room. A
remote control is especially handy for
fans on high ceilings.

A remote-control unit is installed under

the mounting hood of the ceiling fan
(although there are some types that are
wired into the wall switch). These units
are pretty easy to install (the wires are
labeled) and should come with complete
instructions. But if the unit has an
antenna wire, make sure it sticks out a bit
from the housing to make it easier to
pick up the signal; otherwise, it may not
work well.

Light kits are the most common fan

accessory. Almost all fans are made to
Existing ceiling fans can be wired to a remote control. This unit
attaches under the mounting hood. Leave the antenna wire (third accept light fixtures and are equipped
from right) sticking out beyond the metal cover to make it easier to with all the necessary hardware. My
pick up the signal; otherwise, the unit may not work well. biggest complaints with light kits are that
they make the ceiling fan more prone to
wobbling (unbalancing them) and that
the light fixtures are designed not for
function but for form. Cute little teardrop

86 CHAPTER SIX
light bulbs don't provide real room-
brightening light. However, some
manufacturers, such as Hunter, have light
kits that can provide up to 300 watts of
lights. I find that it's better to go for the
higher wattage and then put the light on
a dimmer (for more on wiring a dimmer
switch, see Chapter 3). This way you can
have everything from reading light to
night light. The lights can also be
controlled by a remote.

INSTALLING A FAN
The most difficult part of installing a ceil¬
Fan-mounting boxes must be UL listed for such. The box on the left
ing fan is hanging it correctly. I've had is a pancake box. The one on the right is a standard ceiling box.
countless service calls in which I was
called to repair a wobbling fan or to
replace a fan that had fallen right out of
the ceiling. This is especially embarrassing
when it falls on the dining-room table
during the evening meal. Common sense
and electrical codes need to be followed.
Remember the ceiling fan I told you
about at the beginning of the chapter?
The one that was hitting the vaulted ceil¬
ing? Well, I hate to say it, but that
installation actually passed inspection
somehow. But by following the guide¬
lines here, you should be able to install a
ceiling fan so that it will not wobble or
fall out. The first thing to do is to securely
mount the appropriate box.

The right box

A ceiling fan is a heavy fixture and needs
firm support. You can't just hang a ceil¬
ing fan from a standard ceiling-fixture
box—it will not stay in place. Many
homeowners don't realize this. I've
been on many a service call to install a
ceiling fan where a light used to be, and
the homeowner invariably tells me simply
to remove the overhead light and just Nonmetallic fan-hanging boxes are now on the market. On this unit
install the fan. They think I'm jacking up the spliced wires are stuffed into the side pocket on the right.
my fee when I explain to them that the
existing light box'isn't made for the
weight of an overhead fan and that I
have to remove the existing box and
install a UL-approved one.

CEItiHG FANS 87
 Supporting a Heavy Fa

All fan-mounting boxes must be labeled Mounting

for such (see the photos on p. 87). You Because of its weight, a ceiling fan
can get fan-mounting boxes in both must be mounted to a secure wood
metal and nonmetallic designs. beam. This is easy enough if the fan is
located directly under a joist. But if you
But if the ceiling fan weighs more than want the fan at a certain spot (over the
35 lb., it cannot be mounted onto a box, center of the bed, for example), and
It must be attached directly to the over¬ there is no beam or ceiling joists to
head joists or to another secure attach it to, you'll need to install 2x6
mounting surface (see the drawing bridging between the joists and attach
above). In this instance, because the box the fan-mounting box to that (see the
is not supporting the fan and is serving drawings on the facing page). Just be
as just a splice box, it can be a standard sure the front of the box is flush to the
ceiling box. finished ceiling.

88 CHAPTER SIX
the joists.

CEILING FANS 89
For a room with a low
ceiling, the fan must be
flush mounted. Unfortu¬
nately, this restricts air
movement, so it is not
ideal.

Installing bridging is pretty sinnple if the There are three methods of attaching the
room is not finished, if the ceiling is fan to the ceiling box: flush to the ceiling,
exposed, or if you can access the spot hanging with a drop pipe, or angled for a
through the attic. But if you don't have vaulted ceiling.
easy access to the joists, you can pur¬
chase a special fan-mounting box that Attaching the fan flush to the ceiling is
has adjustable arms. This type of box is most often done in rooms with low clear¬
UL-approved for installing ceiling fans, ance. Unfortunately, having the blades so
but it can only be used for fans weighing close to the ceiling limits air circulation
35 lb. or less. (see the photo above).

Installation of this box is easy. First cut a Hanging the fan from a drop pipe
hole in the ceiling for the box itself. increases air circulation. A short (4 in.
Then insert the box into the hole and to 6 in.) y2-in. or y4-in. drop pipe is
extend the arms out to catch onto the included in most fan packages. Longer
sides of the joists. Each arm has a wood drop pipes can be used if needed, which
screw that is driven into the joist by rotat¬ may be the case with a vaulted ceiling.
ing the arm. Having installed several of The fan wires will have to be run through
these myself, I can tell you it's easier to the center of the drop pipe and should
get the arms into the joists at an angle as be spliced at the overhead splice box (as
opposed to straight on. But that's not the shown in the drawing on p. 88). Do not
right way to do it. If the box is installed at splice in the pipe.
an angle, the screws won't gain full pur¬
chase into the joists, so they may not
hold, and the fan could drop. Take your
time and make sure the arms hit the
joists at right angles.

90 CHAPTER SIX
 A ceiling fan installed in a
vaulted ceiling sometimes
needs a special housing to
allow it to hang straight
down (see the photo below).
Make sure the drop pipe is
long enough to allow the
blades to spin without
hitting the ceiling.

If you are installing a fan in a vaulted ceil¬

ing, you may need a special attachment
housing that fits against the angled ceil¬
ing, allowing the pipe to hang straight
down (see the photos on this page).
Many ceiling-fan kits are universal, allow¬
ing both straight and vaulted installations
as long as the vault is not too severe.

Wiring
Ceiling fans can work off both 14- and
12-gauge wires (for more on running
wires, see Chapter 3). Before wiring the
unit, make sure the power is removed
from the circuit. The fan will come with
four wires ready to be attached: black,
red (this color may vary with the manu¬
facturer), white, and ground. Simply
splice like wires and make sure the splices
Inside the housing, a ball
are tight (for more on splicing, see p. 40). socket fits into the hanging
bracket. The bracket is
If you are going to install a light with the installed on on angle, but
fan and control the power with a wall- the drop pipe hangs
mounted switch, use three-conductor
straight down.

cable (three-way switch wiring) from the

CEILING FANS 91
iSto Ways to Wins a Combination

Power brought to switch, then to fan Power brought to ceiling box, then to switch

Hot to fan Ground Hot to Incoming

switches power

Hot to light

Hot to fan

Three-conductor
cable

Fan switch

Light
switch

Light
switch
White hot
(taped black)

Neutral

The white is taped black to

Incoming power indicate it’s hot.

92 CHAPTER SiX
wall switch to the light. (Even if you switch on the wall. Measure across the
aren't going to install a light with the fan hot wire and the neutral: It should read
at this time, it is a good idea to go ahead 120 volts (or close to that).
and run the extra wire just in case you
change your mind later.) This will allow If the switch is okay, measure the voltage
you to install a switch for the fan and one at the ceiling box. It also should read 120
for the light. Black is normally the hot volts (see the photo at right). If it doesn't,
wire for the fan motor; a red wire (or the switch or wiring is bad. Make sure all
other color) will be the hot for the light; a the splices are still tight. The very last
white wire will be the neutral for both; thing to do is check the continuity of the
and a bare or green wire will be the pull-chain switch (follow the same guide¬
ground (see the drawings on the facing lines for a regular switch—see p. 49). If
page). Although the drawings show two all of these items check out, it probably
ways to bring power to the fan, it's best means that the ceiling fan is dead and
to bring the power cable into the wall will need to be replaced.
switch rather than into the fan outlet
If the fan doesn't work and
box. This simplifies the overhead wiring Although the wiring can sometimes
the switch wiring is okay,
and allows easy access to the power cause a ceiling fan to malfunction, the verify that the fan has
cable for troubleshooting. two most common problems are wobble voltage. Remove the wire
and humming. If the fan is wobbling, first nuts and touch the red lead
If the fan/light combination shares the make sure that it is mounted 100% to the black wire and the
black lead to the white. The
same hot conductor, you cannot install a secure and that there is no wiggle at all
meter should read 120 volts,
dimmer switch or a fan-motor switch on in the outlet box or its supporting joist. If
or close to it.
the wall. The dimmer will affect the you can wiggle the fixture, you should
motor control, and the fan-motor switch remove it and install it more securely to a
will control the light as well. A switch ceiling joist or to bridging.
that does both is not available, so
you'll have to install a standard switch If the fan still wobbles after remounting
and control the fan and light separately or reinforcing it, try balancing the blades
at the fixture. by adding weights to them (see p. 84). I
think the best solution is to replace the
If you choose to use a remote control for blades with new ones. However, some
the fan, you don't have to install a wall fans will wobble no matter what you do.
switch—^just bring power to the outlet
box in the ceiling. This, of course, is per¬ Humming is another common problem
fect for renovation where the walls are with ceiling fans, but it's hard to fix
already up, and it would be very expen¬ because the source lies with the fan's
sive and difficult to run the switch wiring. design. A fan that hums is typically a
poorly designed, cheap unit, where the
Once the wiring has been completed, manufacturer skimped on materials.
attach the cover plate and the fixture However, humming sometimes comes
canopy, and test the fan. from the fan's variable-speed control. If
you can, replace it with a better control
TROUBLESHOOTING made by the manufacturer just for that
Most troubles with a ceiling fan are with particular fan. Some controls are now
the installation, not with the wiring. But labeled as quiet.
if your fan does not work, and its pull
chain is on, first make sure the breaker is
on, then use a multimeter to check the

CEILIHG FAMS 93
 7
Bl AMup ^ m.mm
D#%i

I once received a call from a homeowner CHOOSING A FAN

complaining that his bathroom fan was Many folks who have bathroom fans
not working. I responded within a few already in place don't use them, either
hours, but I was still too late to save the because the fan is too loud (I call these
fan—and the bathroom. The bathroom ring-a-ding fans) or because it doesn't
was riddled with moisture damage from move enough air. These are common
the humid air, so I could tell that the fan complaints, but the problems can be
had not been working properly for sev¬ avoided before the installation by
eral months. buying a good-quality, quiet fan.
There are many types of bathroom fans
As this homeowner witnessed, moisture- out there, and the choice may seem
laden air can cause a lot of damage in a simple: choosing the unit with the best
bathroom over time, such as corroded price. But remember, the best price may
light fixtures, rotted wood, and peeling not be the cheapest price—you get what
wallpaper and paint. It can also hasten you pay for.
the spread of mold and mildew. A bath¬
room fan is supposed to remove that Whey buying a bathroom fan, keep
moisture-ladened air from within the these three things in mind: First, choose
bathroom and pull in dry air from outside the right size fan for the room it will
the room. be installed in; second, it pays to buy a
quiet unit, which will mean paying a
To prevent moisture damage, most bit more; and third, you should also con¬
building codes require fans in bathrooms sider some of the accessories available
that have no windows. But I think a fan that can make the unit more versatile
is a good idea in a bathroom with win¬ (or problematic).
dows, too, especially in cold climates
(it's silly to think a person will open the Size
window to ventilate the room when it's First consider the size of the bathroom
freezing outside). The more moisture you itself and then choose a fan large enough
remove from the bathroom, the better to move air adequately for that size
off you are. room. You don't want to put a tiny fan in
a large bathroom because it won't move
enough air.

94
The volume of air the fan moves is mea¬ But don't be fooled into thinking that
sured in cubic feet per minute (cfm) and your only choice is a noisy unit. Most
will be listed on the unit. To choose the manufacturers do make fans that are
fan with the correct cfm rating for the quiet and built to last—you just have to
room size, first figure the volume of air in shop around and ask for them (or make a
the bathroom and then divide that num¬ special order). It will take a longer time to
ber by 7.5 as per the Home Ventilation get the fan, and it will cost more, but
Institute guidelines. believe me, the quality will be worth the
money and the wait.
Typically you would choose a 50-cfm
unit for a small bathroom (around 5 ft. In general, the higher the cfm rating of a
by 8 ft.), an 80-cfm unit for a midsize fan, the more noise it makes. But the
bathroom (around 8 ft. by 8 ft.), and noise doesn't have to shake the floor.
a 110-cfm unit for a large bathroom You should choose the quietest unit for
(around 10 ft. by 10 ft.). (These figures the amount of air that must be moved.
are based on the bathroom having an
8-ft. ceiling.) For bathrooms larger than A fan's noise is measured in sones
10 ft. by 10 ft., Panasonic makes a (see the Glossary on p. 146), and each
190-cfm unit. unit should have this measurement
clearly labeled.
In general, it's better to move too much
air than too little. If you are caught A noisy fan is one that is above 3 sones.
between two sizes that are close to your You'll be able to hear a fan this loud
calculations, always choose the unit even while the shower is running (it will
with the higher cfm rating. In all likeli¬ sound like a helicopter is landing on your
hood, the price difference between the roof). A quiet fan, on the other hand,
two will not be that great. measures around 2 to 3 sones. An ultra¬
quiet fan will be 1 sone or less. With this
Quiet, please type of fan, you'll only hear a soothing
Bathroom fans have a reputation for whooshing noise as the air moves
being noisy. And unfortunately, noisy fans through the unit.
are installed more often than quiet fans
because they're cheaper and are usually But beware of false advertising. I've seen
the only ones stocked by home centers some manufacturers advertise their fans
and suppliers, so they're the contractor's as being ultraquiet but still have a noise
choice. I called a major plumbing supplier level above 3 sones. And I've seen some
that sells several million dollars of mater¬ fans advertised as quiet that were above
ial every year to see if the company had 10 sones. So don't listen to the manufac¬
any quiet fans in stock. They didn't. (They turer's noisy advertisement. Check the
do now because of my complaints.) label on the fan's box, or take the fan out
 ,lVE^mLATOR Ml ini

^ ^ MODEL QT-90N-B TiSTEO/CfeSTIFIED.

f'vtIO
60 Hz .60 AMPS
^ C.F.M. AT .10 WG 1 5 ^nwpft ■ f C.F.fi/1.
f WODEL QT-90I\I ‘A" UNIT ONLY at.lOWG
SUITABLE TUB OR ‘<lHnt!/cD iuur\‘,
FOR USE OVER
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DIVISION OF AMCA
ISUITABLE FOR USE WITH cm in oth-ti- nr, C-$4316 ^ SONES
^WTROLS. USE NUTONE MODEL VS-64.
^ USE IN KITCHENS 84601
_

In general, the higher the cfm rating of the fan, the louder it will be. The fan in the photo at left is rated
to move 90 cfm of air and is considered quiet at 1.5 sones. The unit on the right moves more air (110 cfm)
but is noisier at 2.5 sones.

of the box and check the sticker inside in the best location to illuminate the
the unit (see the photos above) or the bathroom (in the middle of the room or
spec sheet in the box. near the sink).

Combination units If you forego my advice and decide on

It's very common for manufacturers to the fan/light combination unit anyway,
sell fan units that are combined with choose one that has a glass cover over
lights or heaters or both. But these units the light. You may pay more for the unit,
come with inherent problems. but it will look better a few years down
the road. You can also buy a unit with a
Fan/light combination units do not pro¬ plastic cover that is UV and heat resistant
vide great illumination, especially if they so that discoloration won't be a problem,
are limited to 60-watt bulbs. But the but this is a relatively new addition, and
biggest problem with fan/light combina¬ you may have to search a bit to find this
tion units is that most manufacturers type of unit.
make the covers for the lights out of
cheap plastic. Over time the cover turns Even though fan/light/heater combina¬
brown and degrades as a result of con¬ tion units are popular—and I install them
stant exposure to the ultraviolet (UV) rays all the time for clients—I don't really like
and heat from the light. them. To me, it makes no sense to put
the heater in the overhead fan because
For both of these reasons, I suggest keep¬ you are just heating the air and then
ing the light separate from the fan: Put blowing it outside. I think it makes more
the fan in the best location to get rid
of the moist air (as close as possible to
the tub or shower stall), and put the light

96 CHAPTER SEVEN
sense to install a separate heater in the unit. The fixture will come with slide
wall or in the ceiling near where you step mounting brackets that attach to the ceil¬
out of the shower or tub. ing joists (see the photo below).

Also, sometimes the heat from the It's important to cut the hole in the ceil¬
infrared lamps gets too intense, making ing the correct size because the fan box is
you feel like you're cooking the top designed to sit flush with the ceiling. It
of your head. To reduce the heat, you has a lip in its frame that fits over the
can replace the high-wattage infrared drywall ceiling. In a new installation, you
heat lamps with lower-wattage flood¬ won't have to cut the ceiling, but you still
light lamps. have to install the unit so that the lip will
fit over the ceiling material.
Another problem is that the heater bakes
the wires in the fixture. Over a long Once you've measured, cut the hole in
period of time in a corrosive, moisture¬ the ceiling, and mounted the fan box,
laden environment, the insulation on the run the cable through the walls (for more
wires will crack and fall off, which means on running cable, see Chapter 3). It's best
replacing the whole unit.

But again, if you forego my advice and

decide on the fan/light/heater combina¬
tion unit, choose one that provides
significant heat, which can warm a small
area quickly. Also try to find a unit that
has a glass or a UV-resistant plastic cover
over the lights.

INSTALLING A FAN
The method of installing a bathroom fan
is pretty much the same for a fan, a
fan/light combination unit, and a
fan/light/heater combination unit. The
only difference is that the combination
units have more wires.

Location
The first step is choosing a location for
the fan. It should be installed as close as
possible to the shower without actually
being in the shower (unless it is listed for
wet locations and is protected by a
ground-fault circuit interrupter). You have
A typical bathroom fan mounts between joists on adjustable
to mount the unit between ceiling joists
hangers, and the lip on the front edge fits over the drywall.
to allow the ductwork to be attached to
it, which will affect the placement of the

BATHROOM FAHS 97
 to bring the power to the switch first and For combination units, I prefer to wire the
then to the fan. Doing so makes it easier light to a dimmer switch. I like to be able
to troubleshoot the circuit. to dim the bathroom light because it
makes nightly and early morning visits to
Switches the bathroom easier on the eyes and can
There are three basic switching options serve as a night-light as well (if one isn't
for bathroom fans: standard switches, supplied with the unit).
dimmers, and timers (for more on wiring
switches, see Chapter 3). You could also put the fan (or the heater
of a combination unit) on timer switches
If you are installing a fan-only unit, a so you don't have to worry about leaving
standard switch will do. If you are them on. '
installing a combination unit, you can
wire each fixture to a different switch, Wiring
or you can put all of the switches in one Some units require you to remove the fan
Manufacturers make a
box, but you'll need a large-volume module from its box before mounting
special switch for combi¬
nation units. For this type box—at least 30 cu. in.—to fit all the and wiring (see the left photo below). To
of switch, you'll need a box wires. Many manufacturers make a spe¬ do this, loosen the bottom screws and
with at least 30 cu. in. of cial switch for combination units (see the pull the fan assembly out. In one corner
volume. photo at left). If you are putting in a of the box you will see a splice box that
fan/light combination unit, an option is a the fan plugs into—remove the splice
dual switch—two switches on one yoke. box, too (see the right photo below).

To access the splice box, remove the fan module

from its metal box. Simply loosen the two bottom
screws and slide the fan out.

98 CHAPTER SEVEN
Remove a knockout on the fan box to bring the cable to the splice box. Use a
screwdriver to work the knockout loose.

Now remove a knockout on the fan box

so that you can bring the cable into the
splice box. Insert a screwdriver into the
slot on the knockout and wiggle it up
and down until it comes out (see the
photo above). (The splice box also holds a
small, two-prong receptacle that the fan
plugs into.) Then insert an NM connector
into the knockout (a few NM connectors
are shown in the photo at right). Don't
just bring the cable in through the sharp
bare metal hole because the fan's vibra¬
tion will cause any sharp edge to cut
through the insulation on the cable.

You can now mount the fan by nailing

the sliding mounting brackets to the ceil¬
NM connectors protect cables from the sharp edges of knockouts on
ing joists. Make sure the fan box is low metal boxes. The threaded end screws through the knockout, the
enough that the finished ceiling will butt cable is slipped through the connector, and then the screws are
up against the extend^ed lip. In a renova- tightened to hold the cable in place.

BATHROOM FANS 99
 Insert the cable through the NM connector and push it into the splice box.

tion, this is easy enough. But if the fin¬

ished ceiling is not up yet, judging this
depth could be difficult. For accuracy, slip
a small scrap of the finished ceiling,
whether it's drywall or wood, under the
fan's box to check the fit.

Once the fan box is installed, bring the

cable into the splice box through the NM
connector (see the photo above). Once
in, connect like wires—black to black and
white to white—and attach the bare
ground wire to the metal box (see the
photo at left).

Once the wiring is done, put the splice

box back in place, reassemble the fixture,
and then test it. If the finished ceiling is
Attach the bare ground wire to the green screw on the box and not yet up, wait until it is to put the cover
splice like wires together: black to black and white to white.

100 CHAPTER SEVEN

A common error in bathroom-fan unheated attics, the duct, especial¬
installations is venting the fan ly metal, should be insulated to re¬
straight into the attic. But doing so duce condensation.
will send a lot of moisture into the
attic spaces and could damage The best way to vent the fan—and
wood members and insulation. You the easiest to Install—is an Insulat¬
have to vent the fan to the outside, ed 6-in.-dia. flexible vinyl pipe that
which means running ductwork. comes in 25-ft. sections. Although
there is 4-ln.-dia. flexible vinyl pipe
The fan box will have a round (4 in. available, it should only be used
dia. is common) or rectangular for short runs. I think it’s better to
(3V4 in. by 10 in. is common) vent use the larger diameter to facilitate
on it, which attaches to the duct. airflow (6-in.-dia. pipe has less
If you have a rectangular vent on resistance to airflow than 4-in.-dia.
the box and want to run round pipe does).
duct, you’ll need to install a
transition fitting to convert the In general, use the 4-in. flexible
rectangular to round. pipe for runs of 10 ft. or less and
6-in. flexible pipe for runs of 30 ft.
Most fans will come with both side or less. For longer runs, use 6-in.
and top vents. If there’s an unfin¬ rigid duct (metal or PVC).
ished space above the bathroom,
such as an attic, you can use either RUNNING DUCT
vent—you can run the duct through
the floor space or through the attic. For best airflow, try to run the
If there’s a finished room above the duct in a straight line to the exteri¬
bathroom, you must use the side or. Don’t run it up or down, or make
vent because the duct will have to frequent turns. For every signifi¬
be run through the floor space. cant bend, you will slow down the
airflow. By exactly how much I
can’t tell you, but from my experi¬
TYPES OF DUCT
ence, if you have more than four
You can use rigid or flexible duct, significant turns, you may have
and both can often be bought as to increase the cfm of the fan to
kits. For rigid duct you have the op¬ provide sufficient air movement.
tion of using metal or thin-wall PVC For long, straight runs, try to make
drainpipe. Coming in 20-ft. sec¬ the duct slope slightly downward
tions, thin-wall drainpipe is smooth to the outside wall so that any con¬
on the inside and allows long densed water vapor will drain to
sweeps for the turns, so the airflow the outside.
will have minimal disturbance. If
metal duct is used, be sure to seal
the joints with metal duct tape. In

BATHROOM FANS 101

 on. Once you are sure the unit is work¬ Attach the red wire to the light's hot wire
ing, install the ductwork (see the sidebar (which could be any color, depending
on p. 101). on the manufacturer) and the black wire
to the fan's hot wire. Also, splice all the
Combination units white wires together, allowing each fix¬
A fan/light combination unit will mount ture to share a common neutral.
the same way as the fan unit, but in
this instance there will be two small A fan/light/heater combination unit (see
receptacles in the splice box instead of the photo below) also mounts the same
one, and the unit must be wired (if con¬ way as the fan unit. With this unit,
trolled separately by three switches) with though, you have to feed at least three
three-conductor cable—red, black, white, fixtures, so you need one hot conductor
and bare ground. for each one. Unfortunately, three-

A typical fan/light/heater
combination unit has the
fan on top, the heater coils
to the left, and the light
fixture in the center. The
light fixture (the white
bowl) has a socket for a
night-light and another for
a standard bulb. The splice
box is on the bottom right.

102 CHAPTER SEVEN

 conductor cable has only two hot feeder
wires (red and black) and one neutral
(white). This means you have to run two
three-conductor cables: One for the fan
and light and another for the heater (still
another may be needed if the unit has a
night-light). It would be a good idea to
make this a dedicated circuit (see the
Glossary on p. 146) because the heater
will probably be 120 volts and will draw a
lot of current. Never wire a bathroom fan
into the bathroom-receptacle circuit—it's
not allowed by code.
A fan/light/heater combi¬
Sometimes a fan/light/heater combina- nation unit has a lot of
[ tion unit has the splice box located in an wires to splice inside the
easily accessible spot, so you don't have within the bathroom. In this instance, try splice box. What color wire
to remove any part of the unit from the to cut the bottom of the door so there's a goes to which fixture varies
among manufacturers, so
box. Also, the splice box may not use 1-in. air gap. This will allow the dry air to
you'll need to check the
receptacles to plug the fixtures in. be pulled into the room to replace the
directions to find out which
Instead, each fixture in the unit (fan, moisture-laden air being exhausted by wire goes where.
light, heater) could be spliced to the the fan.
incoming power cables within the splice
box (see the photo at right). Different If you are hearing loud, angry noises
manufacturers use different color codes coming from the fan (this will sound
in their wiring schemes, so you'll need to much different than its typical whirring
consult the directions or trace out the sound), it means the fan's bearings are
wires to determine what color wire goes getting ready to lock up. The easiest
to what fixture. thing to do is to make note of the fan
make and model, buy a new one, remove
TROUBLESHOOTING its fan module, and install it in the old
If you are having problems with a bath¬ unit. This way you don't have to rip out
room fan, simply follow the trouble¬ any parts of your ceiling to install a new
shooting rules for switches and light fix¬ unit. If your fan dies, and you want to
tures (see Chapters 3 and 4). install a whole new fan, try to get one
the approximate size of the old one to
First check the bulb (if the light is not minimize the carpentry work.
working), then check the switch and the
wiring there. Make sure all splices are If you have a heater in the unit, and you
tight and verify continuity with a multi¬ are having problems, check the wiring
meter. If the switch is okay, check the around the heater. Make sure it is not
splices within the fan box and check the melted, burned, or corroded in any area
continuity there. If the problem is not as a result of the heat. If you see cor¬
with the wiring, the fan probably needs roded, burned wiring, the whole unit will

to be replaced. ^ need to be replaced.

If the fan is running but doesn't seem

to be moving much air, the problem
could be that the seal around the bath¬
room door is too tight, creating a vacuum

BATHROOM FANS 103

 HOME-ENTERT^i^MENT
RIY^T EII ^

When I was growing up, people were TV SYSTEMS

happy just to have one radio and televi¬ I remember the first television my parents
sion in the house. But now home- bought. Two delivery people carried it in
entertainment systems feature multiple and set it down on an end table, and I
electronic components that need watched in fascination as the first car¬
special attention. toons my eyes had ever seen pranced
across the screen. Though I didn't know
Most of the components are tied in it then, that box with the flickering light
together, creating a multipurpose system was going to change the world.
to delight the eyes and ears. Both TV sys¬
tems and stereo systems are a lot more Television has come a long way since my
complicated than they used to be—even childhood. A TV set used to be a luxury.
more so than systems that were around Now it's a fixture in most modern homes.
10 years ago. And the technology has evolved as well.
Simple black-and-white sets with fuzzy
I go on a lot of service calls regarding pictures and wavy lines are primitive com¬
home-entertainment systems, and pared to the advanced televisions of
many of the repairs I make could have today: Colors are vivid and realistic, the
been done easily by the homeowner. sound quality is clear, and the choice of
I also have been on many a service sizes seems almost limitless.
call where electronic gear was damaged
or destroyed by voltage surges. The Television is also becoming more inter¬
gear could have been saved if the active—with both people and other
installer adequately protected against electronic devices in the home—connect¬
voltage surges. ing to VCRs, to stereos, and even to
the Internet.
In this chapter I'll explain how to choose
and run TV cable and how to install a Types of cable
digital satellite system. I'll also explain One of the biggest advancements in
how to set up and wire a stereo system. television has been made in cable tech¬
And I'll explain how to protect all of this nology. In the early days of television, the
expensive electronic gear against damage most common TV cable installed in the
from voltage surges. All it takes is a little
know-how, a few tools, and a lot of
common sense.

104
home was called twin lead—a flat cable
about y2 in. wide with one wire on each
side covered with plastic insulation. Twin
lead is still in use today—if you have
an antenna on your rooftop, it probably
sends the signal into the home via
twin lead.

Twin lead is cheap and transmits the TV

signal without much signal loss, but it is
not easy to install correctly. Because the
wires are only covered with plastic, they
can easily be affected by other metal
objects that it contacts. Metal can alter
the electrical characteristics of the wires
and can ultimately impede the signal
transmission. Because of this, at the
antenna mast, stand-off insulators should
be installed every 4 ft. (see the drawing
on p. 111) to keep the cable away from
the metal mast.

Also, the cable should be twisted twice

between each insulator. The twists in
the cable minimize signal interference
that's coupled into the cable and help
stabilize it against wind. To keep light¬
ning off the cable, surge arresters should
be installed close to the top of the mast
in series with the wires. The arresters will
remove lightning-induced voltage surges
from the wires and take them to ground.

One of the downsides of using twin lead

is that the plastic insulation around the
wires cracks easily, exposing the wires Coax cable has replaced twin lead as the

inside. It is especially subject to degrada¬ primary TV cable. It is round with one

tion when exposed to the sun's ultraviolet center conductor wrapped in a layer of

rays. Although modern twin lead is of insulation, which is in turn wrapped with

better quality than the old stuff, and it's one or two layers of foil, one or two lay¬

available from many electronic stores, the ers of braided aluminum or copper, and

best way to go if you are wiring a TV sys¬ an outer layer of insulation (see the

tem is to use coax cable. drawing above). All of this insulation cre¬
ates a shield that makes the cable almost
impervious to outside interference. You

HOME-ENTERmiNMENT SYSTEHS 105

 The female terminals on
coax cable are called F-
connectors. On the left is a
screw-in type, and on the
right is a push-in type.

runs, RG-59U could lose signal strength.

The conductor within RG-6, on the other
hand, is larger in diameter and has a
lower impedance, making it less prone
to signal loss. RG-6 is the most commonly
used coax cable, and it is the cable most
manufacturers recommend. (As with
electric cable, you cannot run coax
cable underground unless the cable is
rated for such use.)

The terminals for coax cable are female,

called F-connectors. There are two types:

A crimper is used to attach F-connectors onto coax cable. One type simply is pushed onto the male
and the other is screwed on (see the
photo above). As I mentioned, RG-59U
and RG-6 have different diameters, so
can run the cable without having to each cable has an F-connector designed
worry about it coming in contact with specifically for it. Be sure you buy the
anything metal. correct-size connector for the cable you
are using.
There are two kinds of coax cable com¬
monly used for video transmission: Coax cable can be purchased in preset
RG-59U and RG-6. The conductor within lengths with the F-connectors already on
RG-59U is smaller in diameter than that them. However, these preset lengths are
in RG-6, so it has a higher impedance short, so for long runs, it's best simply to
(resistance to signal flow). Over long buy the cable by the foot. This way you

106 CHAPTER EIGHT

Installing an F*Connector

1. Cut off a %-in. section of the

outer insulation from one end.

Foil wrap
2. Cut away V2 in. of the braid
and fold the remaining Va in.
back. Then cut away V2 in. of
Braid the foil wrap.

Center insulation

3. Remove % in. of the center

insulation, exposing the center
conductor.

Center
conductor

4. Slide the F-connector over

the end. Make sure there is no
insulation or braid sticking out,
then crimp it tightly.

Crimp F-connector
here.

HOME-EIMTERTAINilEIIT SYSTEMS 107

 can cut the cable to the length you need Although putting an F-connector on a
and install the F-connectors on it. This is cable end is not difficult, it must be done
really quite simple to do. All you need properly for it to last (see the drawing on
is a crimper (see the bottom photo on p. 107). Once the cable has been run to
p. 106), which costs around $20, and the its location (I'll talk more about running
F-connectors, which cost around $2 to cable in just a bit), use a utility knife to
$3 for a pack. Both the crimper and the cut away about % in. from the end of the
F-connectors are available at most elec¬ outer layer of insulation. Cut away about
tronics stores. Vi in. of the braid and fold back the

108 CHAPTER EIGHT

remaining Vs in. Then remove Vi in. of
the foil wrap and % in. of the center
insulation.

The copper conductor in the center

should be exposed for % in. Now slide
the F-connector over the end, making
sure there is no insulation or braid stick¬
ing out. Crimp it tightly on the cable, and
you are ready to connect.

Running cable Although many people

don't know it and often spend money
having a professional wire their homes
for cable, it is legal and very common to
wire your own home. Whether your
house is going to receive broadcasts from
a local cable company, from an antenna
A splitter has one input
on the rooftop, or from any type of satel¬ and two outputs to feed
lite dish, the interior cable runs will all be two televisions.
the same. (This discussion will assume the If only one television is to be connected,
use of coax cable.) the cable can go straight to that location.
But if there are several televisions or if
Coax cable can be run easily along or you'd like to install a jack (a cable outlet)
through studs and joists because it is in every room for future use, it's best to
flexible—not stiff like 12-gauge electrical wire all rooms from one central location.
cable—so it makes turns with ease. To ensure that the signal will stay strong
Simply pull the cable to where it needs enough to be used at all locations, a
to go. However, make sure the cable well-designed system will start with a
does not get kinked because a sharp main-distribution amplifier where the
bend could interrupt the signal. Also, coax cable enters the house (see the
don't run it near heat sources, such as drawing on the facing page). The ampli¬
flue pipes, because the heat could dam¬ fier increases the signal strength and is
age the insulation. plugged into a standard 120-volt recepta¬
cle. This type of amplifier has several
Unlike electrical cables, there are no outputs on it (it could have as many as
official requirements about stapling 12) with one input.
coax cable, but there are a few common-
sense guidelines. When running the If you want to feed only two locations, or
cable along studs or joists, support it jacks, you can install a splitter anywhere
with staples every 2 ft. or 3 ft. (staples along the cable's run. A splitter is a con¬
for coax cable can be purchased at necting device that has one input and
electronics stores). But don't drive the two outputs (see the photo above).
staple in too far, or it could cut through Simply attach the feeder cable to the
the cable's insulatlon,and damage the input terminal and the output cables to
center conductor. the other terminals. The bad thing about
using a splitter, however, is that you lose

HORflE-EliTERTAiliMEIIT SYSTEiiS 109

 but never install a cable jack in the same
box with electrical wiring, even if your
local codes approve. Some codes say it is
okay as long as an approved separator (a
plastic wall) keeps them apart. But one
accidental touch of 120 volts to the low-
voltage TV cable will blow out everything
on the system.

All coax cable must be connected to the

house grounding system to reduce inter¬
ference and to protect the components
from damaging voltage surges caused by
lightning. To ground the cable, attach a
grounding block on the outside of the
building where the cable first comes
to the house (see the drawing at left).
From the grounding block, run a
10-gauge bare copper ground wire to
the grounding electrode conductor and
attach it with a split-bolt connector (avail¬
able at electrical supply stores). Do not
attach the ground wire from the ground¬
ing block to a ground rod that is not
connected to the house grounding sys¬
the house grounding system to tem because it is a code violation. The
reduoe interference and to protect NEC says a house can have only one
the components from damaging grounding system.
voitage surges caused by iightning.

Antennas
Along with advancements in how televi¬
sions function and look, and in the cables
that are used to connect them, even
a little signal strength over long runs. To greater advancements have been made in
retain the signal strength, use a splitter how the television receives its signal.
that's equipped with an amplifier, which,
of course, is more expensive than a stan¬ In the early days of television and even
dard splitter. today, giant transmitting towers with
glowing lights broadcast TV signals to
Run each cable to a wall jack, which be received by antennas mounted on
should have its own rough-in box and be rooftops. These old-style TV antennas,
protected by a cover plate. The rough-in called Yagis (see the drawing on the
box is typically a standard small-volume facing page), look like flattened porcu¬
electrical box (18 cu. in.). It is okay to pines and are still in use in many areas
share a rough-in box with a phone jack. of the country where cable is unavailable
(or for folks who simply don't want to
pay for television).

110 CHAPTER EIGHT

An ungrounded antenna and the To ground an antenna, run a buy tiny ground rods at electron¬
metal mast it mounts on can 10-gauge bare copper wire from ics stores that can be attached
build up high voltage surges dur¬ the metal mast directly into the to an antenna, don’t use them,
ing a lightning storm. I’ve seen it house grounding system. Attach no matter how tempting. A
happen. Before I had the oppor¬ the wire to the mast with a large ground rod that is separate from
tunity to ground the antenna on pipe clamp approved for outdoor the house grounding system is a
my house, my area was hit with a use (available at electronics code violation—the house is al¬
tremendous lightning storm. stores and electrical supply lowed only one grounding sys¬
stores). Then connect the wire tem—and it’s dangerous.
During the storm, I heard a loud to the grounding electrode
ZAP and saw a blinding flash conductor using a split-bolt If the ground wire is not connect¬
from behind my stereo gear. I connector (available at electrical ed to the house grounding sys¬
knew immediately that my equip¬ supply stores). tem, and a hot wire touches the
ment was destroyed. I could have mast or antenna, the breaker will
prevented this damage—and Do not attempt to ground the not kick off. Anyone touching the
saved some money—by ground¬ antenna by connecting the wire mast or antenna in this situation
ing the antenna and mast. to a metal water pipe. This will will be electrocuted.
simply put the voltage surge on
the pipes. Also, although you can

Old-Style Antenna

To station transmitter

UHF antenna

Driven
Supporting rod element

Directors

Reflectors
For maximum signal gain, a
Vagi antenna should be
pointed toward the station Stand-off insulator
transmitter. The directors
send the signal back toward
the driven element, which is Twin-lead cable
connected to the twin-lead
cable that goes into the Mast
house. The reflectors send
missed signals back to the
driven element.

HOME-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 111

 Using an antenna allows you to get free Though an antenna has the ability to
reception, but the quality is sometinnes receive several channels or stations at
poor, and the coverage area that the sig¬ once, most of the time the transmitting
nals can reach is limited, which means towers will be too far apart for the
that many of the signals could be weak. antenna to effectively receive all of them.
If the signal is weak, you'll be watching For the best-possible signal gain, the
more snow (white dots all over the thinner end of the antenna should be
screen) than programs. pointed toward the transmitter of the
TV station you want to pick up. This
The transmission signal is comprised can either be done manually by climbing
of very-high-frequency (VHF) and ultra¬ onto the roof and twisting the antenna
high-frequency (UHF) channels. Some mast or auto'matically with a motorized
antennas can receive only one or the antenna rotator (commonly available for
other, but some can receive both. The around $100). The antenna controller is
long, flat part of an antenna that's paral¬ located at the TV set, and the antenna is
lel to the earth picks up the VHF signal. mounted on top of the motor. Simply
The V-shaped part of an antenna picks turn the controller's dial toward the
up the UHF signal. direction you want the antenna to turn
to, and the antenna will start moving.
The signal-gathering ability of an You'll know the antenna is pointing in
antenna, called signal gain, makes the the right direction when the picture
difference between seeing a good, crisp on the television is best.
picture and seeing one littered with
snow. In general, the larger the TV If you find that your signal is weak no
antenna, the more signal gain it has. matter which direction you turn the
antenna, you can install a signal booster,
A TV antenna is composed of a large sup¬ which is an amplifier that increases the
porting rod down the center that holds size of the received signal. Since the
several smaller, round metal rods called amplifier will increase electrical noise (all
directors, which direct the signal toward electrical circuits have noise) as well as
the driven element. The driven element the signal gain, it must be bolted to the
collects the signal, then sends it through TV antenna mast far from the television.
the lead-in transmission line (typically If the amplifier is installed closer to the
twin-lead cable), which sends it to the television, it could pick up and amplify
television. The more driven elements an noise from phone lines and electrical
antenna has, the better the signal gain. appliances that will transmit through
Behind the driven element are reflectors, the television.
which reflect any missed signals back
into the driven element to boost the Satellite systems
signal strength. Antennas are primitive compared to
today's methods of sending and receiving
For optimum reception, install the TV signals. Most homes receive TV signals
antenna as high as possible, but keep it from cable TV companies through cables
away from power lines, which can inter¬ mounted on poles outside the home.
fere with the signal. But satellite technology is quickly gaining
momentum because of its fantastic
picture quality.

112 CHAPTER EIGHT

 This satellite dish was
considered state of the art
just a few years ago. But it's
now obsolete due to the
introduction of smaller,
more-powerful digital
satellite systems that can
be mounted onto the house.

When I bought a 10-ft, satellite dish and to install over 100 of these large dishes a
installed it in my yard a few years ago month, is now installing zero. The owner
(see the photo above), it was considered says this technology is dead.
state of the art, although it was expen¬
sive at the time (a couple thousand Digital satellite systems (DSS) are now the
dollars). The dish receives C-band signals current technological rage and offer two
from around 20 satellites. Because C- distinct advantages over C-band systems.
band signals have a low frequency and First, DSS dishes are small, 18 in. to 39 in.
limited transmitting power, a large dish is in diameter, and are less expensive than
needed. But one of the biggest satellite the dishes needed to receive C-band sig¬
dealers in my area of Virginia, which used nals. Plus DSS dishes can be mounted
directly onto the house.

HOME-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 113

 Second, the DSS system receives high- Installing a DSS system The DSS dish
powered Ku-band signals in digital must be mounted outside to pick up sig¬
form directly from satellites. The Ku nals from the satellites. In theory, the dish
band is a much stronger signal than a can be easily installed by a handy do-it-
C-band signal, with higher frequencies. yourselfer. However, the installation
And because it receives the signals in manual is around 1 in. thick, with a lot of
digital form, DSS provides a crisp, small details. If-you desire, most dealers
clear picture and full-spectrum sound. offer service contracts that will include
Most dealers have a system up and run¬ installation and maintenance of the sys¬
ning in their showroom to impress you tem. But this will cost extra. If you prefer
as you walk in (to find a dealer near to install the dish yourself, follow all
you, check the yellow pages under manufacturer instructions and warnings.
"Satellites"). And it is impressive—no Here are the basics.
snow, just pure, deep colors.
Securely mount the dish to a solid sur¬
The cost of the system will vary, depend¬ face, preferably into the house framing.
ing on the package you buy. You can Be sure the mast is plumb—exactly
probably get a complete system, includ¬ straight up and down—or the system will
ing the dish and the receiver (which not work properly. Check for plumb using
decodes the digital signal), for around a level or a plumb bob. Because the satel¬
$400. But that money is just for the lites that transmit the signals orbit the
equipment. equator, you have to face the dish toward
south. Once the dish has been mounted,
You also will pay a monthly programming make all the cable connections.
fee, and that figure will depend on
the package of channels you buy. Run a single RG-6 coax cable from the
Although most services offer many of DSS dish to the grounding block
the popular channels, before you buy mounted on the outside of the house.
and install a DSS system, check with the Before attaching the cable to the
dealer to be sure you'll be able to watch grounding block, run a 10-gauge bare
your favorite programis. It's also a good copper wire from the block to the
idea to inquire about any additional fees house grounding system. If the cable
for first-run movies or special events. If from the dish or the cable to the house is
you want to watch local programming, coming to the grounding block from
you'll need to hook up your rooftop above, form it into a drip loop to prevent
antenna to the system. water from running down the cable and
seeping into the connections (see the
Although 99% of the time, the picture drawing on the facing page). Simply
will be crystal clear. Mother Nature occa¬ make a small loop in the cable just before
sionally interferes with the signal. If your the grounding block and secure it with a
area receives very heavy rain, the signal tie wrap. If the cable goes straight down
gain could be reduced. It's possible to as it leaves the grounding block, a drip
lose as much as 20 minutes of signal dur¬ loop isn't needed.
ing a week of heavy rain.

114 CHAPTER EIGHT

If the cable connects to the grounding block from
above, drip loops should be formed at the grounding
block. The drip loops prevent rain and condensation

If the distance from the DSS

dish to the receiver is more
than 100 ft., you'll need to
boost the signal with an
in-line amp like this one.

HOME-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 115

116 CHAPTER EIGHT
The length of the cable run from the DSS Some people like to watch local program¬
dish to the receiver is critical. If the run ming, but DSS systems usually don't carry
from the dish to the receiver is excessive it. But this is easily fixed by connecting
(more than 100 ft.), the signal could be the DSS receiver to the Yagi antenna
drastically reduced. In this instance, on the roof. If your TV-antenna cable is
you'll need to install an in-line amplifier twin lead, you'll need to connect it to
at the dish to boost the signal (see the coax cable to connect to the receiver.
photo on p. 115).
The problem is that the two cables have
From the grounding block, run the coax different impedances (see the Glossary
cable into the house and to a jack in the on p. 146): coax has an impedance of
TV room (see the drawing on the facing 75 ohms while twin lead normally has an
page). It doesn't really matter where you impedance of 300 ohms. To make the
bring the cable into the house. Just drill splice, you'll need a special device called
the correct-size hole (about in.) in the an impedance-matching transformer,
wall and pull the cable through. Once which is sold at all TV and electronics
you are through, seal around the hole stores. An impedance-matching trans¬
with caulk to prevent insects, moisture, former balances the incoming and
and drafts from entering the house. outgoing impedances of the different
cables to maintain the signal strength.
Bring the cable to a wall jack and
connect the "satellite in" jack on the Aligning the dish Once all the attach¬
receiver to the wall jack. Then connect ments have been made, the dish has to
the receiver to a phone jack (billing is be aligned correctly. Proper alignment is
done via the phone lines). critical to the performance of the system,
and it is impossible to align the dish by
The connection from the dish to the just pointing it toward the general direc¬
receiver must be direct. You cannot install tion of the satellite orbiting the equator.
a splitter before the receiver because it
must first decode the signal. If you want The dish has two alignment adjustments:
to feed two televisions, the splitter must elevation and azimuth. Elevation is the
be installed between the receiver and the height and angle adjustment of the dish.
TV sets. If you want to feed more than Azimuth is the left and right adjust¬
one television and want to watch two ment—technically the amount of degrees
different channels at the same time (one in the clockwise direction from true
person in the bedroom watches one north. The manual that comes with the
channel while another in the living room system provides complicated instructions
watches another), you will need two of for finding the correct elevation and
everything: two LNBs (the thing that azimuth. But with most systems, you can
catches the signal at the dish), two simply turn on the receiver and call up a
receivers, as well as two RG-6 cables (one screen menu that automatically gives you
for each receiver connection). The option these numbers (consult the manual for
is nice, but the expense is doubled. specific instructions). Enter your zip code,
and bingo, the figures appear on screen.

HOME-ENTERTAil^MEi^T SYSTEIVIS 117

 Creating a Home Theater

Home theater puts the movie ac¬ run about $300 and up, decodes lar speaker generates a magnet¬
tion right into your living room by the Dolby signals and powers the ic field that will adversely affect
giving you total surround sound. extra speakers. the television signal, you can’t
You are not just a spectator—you put it on top of the TV set. You
are part of the experience. War The amplifier has four channels must use a speaker that is mag¬
planes enter through your (there are now systems available netically shielded. You’ll find
kitchen, blaze a path across your that offer five independent chan¬ magnetically shielded speakers
head, and crash right in front of nels, but they are expensive): specifically designed for home
you. Monsters jump out of the front left, center, front right, theater at electronics stores.
screen and sit in your lap. and rear. For the best sound,
place your regular speakers in Place two other speakers behind
Home theater can be created front of the viewing area, on ei¬ the viewing area for depth. If you
on almost any budget. If you al¬ ther side of the television (see want another level of sound, add
ready have a stereo system, you the drawing below). a subwoofer. The subwoofer can
need to add three more small be located anywhere in the room,
speakers and an audio/video Locate one speaker directly in but for best effect, center it di¬
decoder amplifier with Dolby front of the viewing area on top rectly behind the viewing area
sound. The amplifier, which will of the television. Because a regu¬ (if the area is open).

Home-theater layout The center speaker In front car¬

ries the sound from left to right
Center speaker (if located or vice versa. The small speakers
on the TV, it must be in the rear add depth, and the
magnetically shielded)
subwoofer accents the whole
sound with additional base.

Front left With this setup, the illusion of

Front right
speaker movement is created because
speaker
the sound follows the action
on the screen. For example, if
the screen shows a car driving
off to the right, the sound will
move with the car, starting at the
center speaker and moving to
the right speaker. When a plane
roars across the screen from
right to left and then crashes,
you will hear it enter from the
right speaker, go across the cen¬
ter speaker, and crash on the left
speaker. Even monsters will
reach out and grab you.

Rear left Rear right

speaker
Subwoofer speaker

118 CHAPTER EIGHT

To set the elevation, loosen the elevation
nut on the dish (see the instructions for
Replacing a Damaged Section of Coax Cable
the location of this nut) and nnove the
dish up or down to the elevation setting Use wire cutters to remove the damaged
given on the screen. The typical elevation section of cable.
setting for most systems is 32°, but check
the manual.

To align the dish to the azimuth setting

(in degrees), you'll need the help of a
compass (which is typically provided
with the installation kit). Loosen any
nuts holding the dish arm tight and then
use the compass to show you the direc¬
tion of the required azimuth setting. 2. Strip the cable ends and install
Point the dish in that direction, then F-connectors on them (see p. 107).
tighten the nuts. You should have a pic¬
ture now, but it might not be great.

The elevation and azimuth settings given

by the manufacturer are coarse adjust¬
ments only—they simply allow you to get
the signal from the satellite. To get the
maximum-strength signal, you'll have to
fine-tune the dish's alignment. Consult
with your manual on how to fine-tune
the unit.

Troubleshooting
If you have poor TV reception, there are a
few troubleshooting steps you can take
before making an appointment for what
could be an expensive service call.

If you have a DSS system, it will basically

troubleshoot itself. Simply follow the 3. Join the two F-connectors
directions in the manual. If you have an to a barrel connector.
antenna as the main signal receiver, and
your picture quality is not good, check to
be sure that the antenna is pointed in the
right direction. This, unfortunately, will
require a trip to the rooftop. Most often,
however, poor reception can be traced to
the cable.
i.

If you have an antenna, make sure that

the twin-lead cable is in good condition.
The older styles don't last very long. If
you see the cable is damaged, replace it.

HOME-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 119

Also check to be sure that twin lead is STEREO SYSTEMS
not directly connected to coax cable at Because of the number of elements that
any point. This splice requires the use of make up a modern stereo system, and
an impedance-matching transformer to because the stereo system is also tied
balance the impedance of the cables. I into other electronic components,
had a customer who had complained of a such as televisions and VCRs, care must
poor picture since she moved into her be taken in the organization and wiring
new house. I found that the antenna of components.
installer had run twin lead from the
antenna to the coax jacks in the wall. The If you have a substantial stereo system,
impedance mismatch caused the signal it's a good idea to wire a particular
strength to degrade, resulting in a poor room to handle the load. Bring in extra
TV picture. circuits for power, and arrange the com¬
ponents so that you can make the
There are fewer problems with modern connections easily.
coax cable than there are with twin lead.
If your are experiencing trouble with Also, because electronic components
your TV reception, check the cable runs. generate heat and will not work properly
Make sure the cable is not kinked or if they are too hot, be sure that you pro¬
run near heated objects such as flue vide ventilation. If the gear is within a
pipes that extend through the attic. The cabinet with a door, cut 2-in. vent holes
heat could damage the cable. Also, if the in the back of the cabinet to allow air cir¬
cable run is long, resulting in a snowy culation. Cut four holes in the cabinet's
picture, install an in-line amplifier. back—two at the top and two at the bot¬
tom—more if you need to. If you stack
Look for damaged cable and loose components, provide plenty of airspace
connections. Installers sometimes are between levels.
working so fast that they drive a staple
through the cable instead of around it. Wiring speakers
Other times the staples are driven too Wiring stereo speakers is really pretty
tightly, crushing the cable. If any F-con- simple. If you are attaching two speakers,
nectors are loose, replace them. you'll need two cables—one cable for
each speaker—each with two 14- or
If you find that a section of coax cable is 16-gauge wires.
damaged, you don't have to replace the
whole thing. You can remove the dam¬ The stereo or receiver output will proba¬
aged area and make a splice with a barrel bly have two channels; A and B. Each
connector (available at electronics stores) channel, labeled left and right, can be
between two F-connectors (see the draw¬ wired to a set of speakers. These can be
ing on p. 119). heard as A only, as B only, and as A and B
together. Run two cables from a channel
If none of your repairs have solved the and connect one cable to each speaker.
problem, you'll need to call the cable TV For extra base, you can add subwoofers
supplier or your satellite dealer to arrange to the channel that's not used.
for a service call.
Right speaker Left speaker

Proper speaker polarity must be maintained for the stereo sound to be

reproduced accurately. Simply match the plus and minus signs.

RCA interconnect cables are

the most common cables
used to connect stereo
equipment. Use a different
color for each component
so that you don't mix up
the cables at the receiver or
amplifier.

HOME-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 121

 For speakers to work properly, they into the audio out jacks (there will be a
must be wired with the proper polarity. left and right channel). Run that cable to
That means the positive output (+) on the receiver or an audio/video amplifier.
the receiver must be connected to the On a receiver, connect the cable to the
positive input on the speaker, and the auxiliary jacks (connect the left and right
negative output (-) on the receiver outputs to their corresponding jacks on
must be connected to the negative the input). On an audio/video amplifier,
input on the speaker (see the drawing connect the cable to the VCR input.
on p. 121). Most speaker cables are
color coded or ribbed to help wiring to Troubleshooting
the correct polarity. When it comes to stereo systems, there's
not much to troubleshoot. All electronic
Connecting components components come with complete installa¬
Virtually all stereo components are con¬ tion and troubleshooting instructions.
nected via RCA interconnect cables (see If you are experiencing troubles with
the photo on p. 121). If you have a lot your system, consult your manual for
of connections to make, and you'd specific directions. If a component is not
rather not have a dozen single cables working at all, you may need to send it
lying around looking like a bird's nest, out to be repaired.
you can get this type of cable in double
and quad versions, which provide two In general, though, the biggest mistake
and four hookups, respectively. people make when hooking up compo¬
nents is mixing up the RCA and speaker
Long cables could reduce the signal gain, cables. Doing so will not allow the system
so try to keep all the components as to perform well, and the result will more
close as possible but still allowing for air¬ than likely be poor sound reproduction. If
flow to dissipate heat. Connections are the sound is distorted, double-check to
simple because components typically be sure that all the connections are prop¬
have the jacks labeled (for CD players, erly polarized.
tape players, etc.). Just be sure that you
don't run the cables in traffic areas or SURGE PROTECTION
near heat sources. Voltage surges are a major source of
damage to today's sensitive and expen¬
When hooking up the components, it's a sive electronic components and
good idea to use different color cables appliances. The two most common
for each component or tape or label each ways that voltages are induced into the
cable. This way you don't mix up the wiring are through lightning (see the
cables at the receiver or amplifier. Doing sidebar on the facing page) and through
so will not allow the system to function other appliances.
properly or at all.
One customer saw a ball of lightning
If you want to hook up your VCR to the shoot out of a receptacle behind his
stereo system for better sound quality stereo, flash across the room, and fly into
from your television, use RCA intercon¬ the metal flue of his woodstove. The
nect cables. On the VCR, insert the cable lightning destroyed his receiver but.

122 CHAPTER EIGHT

How Lightning Gets into the House

The majority of lightning- and appliance frames). The The ground connections on the
induced voltage surges come lighting does not have to hit or utility poles often are only good
into a house via the utility and even come close to the house enough to lower voltage surges,
telephone lines and seemingly to have an effect on it. not stop them. To best protect
head for the most expensive expensive electronic compo¬
and sensitive electronic The lightning can hit many nents and appliances against
equipment, such as computers, miles away, putting a damaging damaging voltage surges, you
stereo systems, and televisions. voltage spike into the power need a good grounding system
lines that travels through the combined with surge protection
Lightning produces magnetic service drop right into the home at both the main panel and at
lines of force that couple (see the right drawing below). the appliance (for more Informa¬
through the air, inducing volt¬ Or a lightning bolt could flash tion on the grounding system,
ages on both current-carrying across the sky above the house see Chapter 2).
conductors (such as utility lines and induce voltages within the
or in-house wiring) and non¬ house into anything that will
current-carrying conductors conduct electricity (see the left
(such as metal plumbing pipes drawing below).

Through induction Through power lines

Lightning can induce a voltage surge into the high-

voltage power lines. The surge travels along the lines,
into the service drop, and into the house.

When lighihing flashes across the sky, it creates

magnetic lines of force. These forces surge into the
house, inducing voltages into anything that can
conduct electricity.

HOME-ENTERTAIIliVIEMT SYSTEI^S 123

 luckily, did not hit him. Most lightning the grounding system. But before
surges are less dramatic, but that doesn't installing the surge arresters, make sure
mean less damaging to appliances. your house has a good grounding system
(for more on the grounding system, see
Smaller voltage surges are caused by Chapter 2). If the grounding system isn't
appliances within the home, such as in good condition, the arresters won't
switches, motors, solenoids, and com¬ work properly.
pressors turning on and off. These small
surges occasionally damage other com¬ I always provide protection in two stages:
ponents or put annoying noises into at the main panel and then at the appli¬
them. For instance, it is very common for ance (called^point-pf-use protection).
a light switch turning on and off to put a
noise spike large enough to send a hori¬ Main panel
zontal line across the TV screen and to A hard-wired surge arrester (see the
put a loud pop into stereo gear (even a photo below) installed at the main panel
boom box). protects all the house wiring from major
surges coming in on the power line. This
To protect against unwanted voltages, it's type of arrester costs $150 and more at
a good idea to install surge arresters, electrical supply stores.
which deflect excess voltages away
from electronic equipment and into A hard-wired surge arrester monitors
the voltage coming into the house and
deflects any voltages that exceed the
standard house voltage to ground.
Because this type of arrester is at the
main panel, it should be installed by a
qualified, licensed electrician.

Point of use
Point-of-use surge arresters deflect surge
Hard-wired surge arresters, voltages back into the grounding system
like the Tytewadd shown and are built with sensitive electronic
here, are installed at the components inside that eliminate noise
main panel. They deflect
from other appliances.
voltage surges from the
power lines harmlessly into
the grounding system. Point-of-use surge arresters are
normally not sufficient on their own to
protect against massive surges caused

124 CHAPTER EIGHT

by lightning. Instead, they are a sec¬ into another bank. It also has an outlet
ondary defense, deflecting surges that for the telephone line to protect phones,
get past the hard-wired surge arrester faxes, modems, and answering systems.
at the main panel.
An Isobar surge arrester will cost
There are two point-of-use designs: One around $100. If you think the price is
is mounted directly onto a receptacle, high, think about the cost of replacing
and the other is a strip type, which most a television or stereo that gets destroyed
people are familiar with. Most computer by a voltage surge.
stores, hardware stores, and even some
discount stores sell point-of-use surge
arresters. It doesn't pay to skimp here.
The cheap units sold at most stores are
light duty at best. It's better to spend
more to get the maximum protection for
your electronic components.

The unit I prefer is made by Isobar; the

model Isotel Ultra 6 (see the photo at
right). It comes with a $25,000 insurance
policy if equipment plugged into this unit
is damaged by a voltage surge.

There are three reasons why I like this

particular model. First, it tells you if there
is any problem with the house wiring,
just like a plug-in receptacle tester would.
Second, it is heavy duty, so it can deflect
massive voltage surges to the grounding
system. Third, it has three banks of two
receptacles (six total), with each bank
being electronically isolated from the oth¬ This point-of-use surge arrester comes with a $25,000 insurance
policy, has six receptacles that are electronically isolated from one
ers. That means any component plugged
another, and protects telephone lines. (Photo courtesy of Isobar.)
into a receptacle in one bank will not
transmit noise into a component plugged

HOME-ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 125

 9
SKCIAL INSTALLATIONS

As our homes become more and more WIRING APPLIANCES

appliance oriented, more folks are An appliance is either hard wired or
attempting installations themselves. plugged into a receptacle. When a large
There are good and bad sides to this appliance is going to be permanently
story. On the good side, by installing and installed at one location, it is normally
wiring appliances, a homeowner can save hard wired. This means that the incoming
significant money over hiring an electri¬ cable that powers the appliance is
cian to do the job. On the bad side, many brought into the unit and is spliced to its
appliances draw a lot of voltage, so they internal wiring. This is done in a splice
have different installation requirements box on the appliance supplied by the
than standard 120-volt circuits. manufacturer. Large appliances that have
a cord and plug include electric ovens
It is also common for a modern home and dryers.
to require telephone jacks in almost
every room, for hooking up to phones, Here I'll illustrate how to wire dishwash¬
fax machines, computer modems, and ers, in-wall electric ovens and drop-in
even satellite dishes (see Chapter 8). cooktops, garbage disposals, baseboard
Because the homeowner is responsible heaters, water heaters, electric ovens,
for installing and maintaining the house and electric dryers. Most of the appli¬
telephone system, many are opting to ances covered in this chapter are required
run the cables themselves, instead of hir¬ by the National Electric Code (NEC) or
ing a contractor. the manufacturer to be on a dedicated
circuit (for more on dedicated circuits, see
Whether wiring an appliance or the the sidebar on the facing page). And
phone system, it's important to do the according to code, all appliances require
job correctly the first time around to a disconnect means in the form of a
avoid problems and expensive service switch with a clearly defined "off" posi¬
calls. In this chapter. I'll show you how tion that opens all hot conductors or an
to wire some of the most common accessible plug and cord. In all cases, you
household appliances, and I'll also illus¬ should make sure power is off before
trate how to install telephone wiring in wiring, and you must always follow the
the home. manufacturer's installation instructions.

126
Dedicated Circuits

A dedicated circuit is one that You are not allowed to plug in the picture. I always put the living-
supplies power to one specific appliance to the receptacle us¬ room receptacles on a dedicated
appliance or to a receptacle or ing an extension cord. circuit to isolate them from noisy
receptacles in a specific room switch circuits.
or area. Nothing else can be fed Also, the NEC and appliance
off this circuit. It is assumed manufacturers require heavy- WHERE TO INSTALL
that the load will need most, if duty appliances, such as dryers DEDICATED CIRCUITS
not ail, of the power provided and water heaters, to be on dedi¬ The following is a small list of
by the circuit. If some of the cated circuits. And if an appli¬ specific areas and heavy-duty
power is drawn elsewhere, it ance manufacturer requests that appliances that require or that
could adversely affect the load the appliance be on a dedicated should have dedicated circuits.
on the circuit. circuit, the NEC requires you to
follow the instructions (it will be • Baseboard heaters
I made a service call in which the indicated in the literature sup¬
homeowner said the motor on plied with the appliance). • Bathroom fans with built-in
the water pump was intermittent¬ heaters
ly overheating and just didn’t Dedicated heavy-duty loads for
sound right. I found that the appliances that run continuously • Bathroom receptacles
owner had tapped the pump for three hours or more at a time,
circuit into the water-heater cir¬ such as electric baseboard • Dishwashers
cuit. Whenever the water heater heaters, should never exceed
turned on, it drew power from the 80% of the branch-circuit rating. • Dryers
pump, causing the pump to work That means 12 amps is the maxi¬
harder and eventually overheat. mum a load or group of loads • Electric ranges and ovens
can pull on a 15-amp circuit, and
The National Electric Code (NEC) 16 amps is the maximum for a • Garage receptacles
and appliance manufacturers 20-amp circuit.
dictate when and where dedicat¬ • Garbage disposals
ed circuits are required. In refer¬ A dedicated circuit can also be
ence to general-purpose recepta¬ used to isolate one area electri¬ • Kitchen/dining/pantry
cles, according to the NEC, no cally from another. For instance, receptacles
one cord-and-plug appliance in the kitchen, the light over the
(portable) can pull more than sink cannot be wired off the • Large microwave ovens
50% of the branch-circuit rating countertop receptacle circuit be¬
on a circuit that has lights or oth¬ cause the light could drain valu¬ • Large portable air conditioners
er appliances. That means 7.5 able power from the receptacles,
amps Is the maximum load for which are dedicated to counter- • Large stereo systems
one such appliance on a 15-amp top appliances.
circuit, and 10 amps is the maxi¬ • Laundry-room receptacles
mum load for a 20-amp circuit. If Another reason for wanting to
that load is exceeded, put the ap¬ isolate one area from another • Shop receptacles
pliance on a dedicated circuit. is to keep the noise of one
electronic device from affecting • Water heaters (including small
If an appliance on a dedicated another. For instance, a light under-sink models)
circuit has a cord and plug, the switch can sometimes put out
receptacle must be located as a noise spike large enough that • Water pumps
close as possible to the appli¬ it can be heard on the stereo
ance and no farther than 6 ft. and could interfere with the TV • Welders

SPECIAL. INSTALLATIONS 127

 There are many designs of each appliance The first step is to turn off power to the
in this chapter, so I'm not going to dis¬ circuit. Then bring the cable through
cuss which models are best. I'm going to the floor or wall anywhere behind the
focus on the wiring only. The most sound dishwasher (for more on running cable,
buying advice I can offer is to do some see Chapter 3). Leave enough slack in
research to find the best one for your the cable so that the dishwasher can be
situation. Shop around, ask a lot of ques¬ pulled out and serviced—usually 3 ft. to
tions, and check consumer magazines for 4 ft. of slack will be sufficient.
comparisons and other information.
The dishwasher will have a small metal
Dishwasher splice box injront (behind the kick panel)
The most common hard-wired appliance to house the wire splices. Before bringing
in the kitchen is the dishwasher. It is typi¬ the cable into the box, remove the box's
cally 120 volts and requires a dedicated cover and install an NM connector in the
20-amp circuit using 12-gauge wire. knockout. The NM connector will prevent

128 CHAPTER NINE

the cable from being cut by the sharp wires into the splice box, replace the
metal edge of the box, which can happen cover and kick panel, restore power, and
easily since all dishwashers vibrate. the dishwasher is ready to run.

Bring the cable into the splice box, strip In-wall electric oven
it, and make the connections (for more and drop-in cooktop
on stripping cable, see p. 36). Connect An in-wall electric oven and drop-in
the bare copper wire to the green cooktop are normally put on a hard-wired
grounding screw. Splice the incoming dedicated circuit. Because they use both
black wire to the internal black wire, and 120 and 240 volts (the bake unit and
splice the white neutrals together (see burners use 240, and the lights, buzzers,
the drawing on the facing page). Twist and timers use 120), the incoming cable
the wire splices together and cover them has four conductors; one insulated black
with wire nuts (for more on splicing, see wire (hot), one insulated red wire (hot),
p. 40). Be sure no bare wire is showing one ground, and one insulated white
under any wire nut, then gently fold the wire (neutral).

Wiring an In-Wall Electric Oven and Drop-In Cooktop 'T-- ;

Incoming power (8- or 6-gauge,

SPECIAL INSTALLATIONS 129

The incoming power cable is normally Garbage disposal
either 8-gauge or 6-gauge copper. With A garbage disposal can be plug and
8-gauge conductors, you'll need 40-amp cord, but it is normally hard wired. It uses
overcurrent protection, and with 6-gauge 120 volts, and often local codes require
conductors, you'll need 50-amp overcur¬ you to put the disposal on a dedicated
rent protection. Both the oven and circuit. This is a good idea because the
cooktop will come with a whip, which is disposal can generate a lot of noise in an
a pigtail of wires encased in a flexible electrical circuit.
metal conduit (Greenfield). The wires
within the whip are usually smaller gauge Follow the manufacturer's instructions for
(10, 12, or 14 gauge) than the feeder installation af the unit. The installation
cable (the one from the main panel). procedures may vary, depending on the
manufacturer, but the wiring is basically
To wire the oven and cooktop, first turn the same. First turn off the power.
off the power. Then install a large metal Once the disposal has been installed,
splice box—42 cu. in. (4^Vie in. square remove the cover plate at the bottom of
and 278 in. deep). Because the splice box the unit to expose the internal wires.
is a maintainable item (according to the
NEC), it must remain accessible, so don't Install and wire a single-pole switch in
hide it behind a wall. Instead, put it the wall immediately above the sink (for
under a countertop so that it's out of more on installing switches, see Chapter
view but accessible. 3), then run a cable from the switch to
the garbage disposal. Although there's
Bring the incoming power cable and both no official requirement or stapling sched¬
whips to the splice box (for more on run¬ ule, I hold the cable near the center of
ning cables, see Chapter 3). Because the the stud with three staples to keep the
splice box is metal, you should run all the cable far enough from the finished wall
cables through NM connectors to prevent so that errant screws and nails won't
the sharp edges of the box from cutting damage it. Many local codes require the
through them. cable to be protected in Greenfield (flexi¬
ble metal conduit) where it is exposed
Once you have both whips and the under the sink. You should check your
incoming cable in the box, make the con¬ local codes to see if this is a requirement
nections (see the drawing on p. 129). in your town.
Simply splice like wires—black to black,
red to red, white to white, and ground to Once the switch has been hooked up,
ground. You'll also need to ground the and the cable has been run to the dis¬
metal splice box by running a pigtail from posal, simply connect like wires under
the box to the ground splice. Then simply the cover plate of the disposal (see the
fold the wires back into the box, put the drawing on the facing page): black
cover plate on, restore power, and you're to black and white to white (the
ready to cook. ground connects to a grounding
screw on the unit). Restore power,
and the unit is ready to run.
Wiring a Garbage Disposal

Single-pole

Electric baseboard heater What size cable you use to feed the
A 240-volt electric baseboard heater pro¬ heater depends on the total amperage of
vides fast heat and is installed easily. the unit. A baseboard heater pulls about
Because a baseboard heater pulls a lot of 1 amp per ft., so to figure out the total
current, the manufacturer typically amperage of the unit, simply add up the
requires that it be put on a dedicated total length of the heater. For instance, if
circuit, and the NEC requires you to fol¬ you want to install a 10-ft. unit, it will
low the manufacturer's instructions. pull about 10 amps. Use 12-gauge cable
Although there are 120-volt baseboard if the heater will pull less than 16 amps
heaters available, I don't recommend and 10-gauge cable if the heater will pull
them because they pull twice as much above 16 amps but less than 24 amps.
current as the 240-volt units, so they are
less efficient. Also, they could be acciden¬ Installation of a baseboard heater is
tally hooked up to a 240-volt circuit, pretty simple, although procedures may
which will burn out the heating elements vary, depending on the manufacturer, so
inside and could eventually start a fire. be sure to follow the manufacturer's
This discussion applies to 240-volt instal¬ guidelines. The biggest question is

lations only.

SPECIAL INSTALLATIOIIS 131

 whether you want to mount the thermo¬ least 23 cu. in. of volume {SVi in. deep)
stat in the wall or in the heater. Which because a double-pole thermostat needs
method you choose will affect where you lots of wiring space.
bring the incoming power cable to.
A double-pole thermostat has a line
Wiring a wall-mount thermostat side and a load side. Connect the incom¬
Although you are allowed to replace an ing power to the line side and the
existing single-pole thermostat with one outgoing power to the load side (see the
of the same, in a new installation, a wall- bottom drawing on the facing page).
mount thermostat for a baseboard heater Connect the ground wire to the ground¬
is reguired by the NEC to be double pole ing terminal.^Because there will be two
because it is safer. hot legs on the circuit, there will be no
neutral, and the white wire will be hot.
You see, a single-pole thermostat cannot The NEC requires this wire to be taped
remove all power to the heater. It only black to indicate it's hot.
disconnects one of the two 240-volt
legs of the circuit (a 240-volt-only appli¬ Once the connections have been made
ance requires two hot wires, called legs, at the thermostat, you can make the
and no neutral). A double-pole thermo¬ connections at the heater. A standard
stat, on the other hand, has an off baseboard heater can be connected to
position with two disconnects that allow the thermostat through either end.
you to remove power from both 240-volt Simply remove the cover to access the
legs of the circuit. Because many people wiring. Inside you will see two wires
will have an existing single-pole thermo¬ spliced with a wire nut (see the drawing
stat for an electric baseboard heater, I on p. 134). Remove the wire nut and
have shown the wiring for it in the top pull the wires apart (leave the wires on
drawing on the facing page to make the other end of the heater alone).
replacing one easier. But because of the
code regulation, the discussion that fol¬ Now pull the cable into the unit (install
lows is for a double-pole thermostat. an NM connector in the knockout) and
connect the incoming white hot wire
To install a double-pole thermostat, first (tape it black) to one of the two wires
be sure power to the circuit is turned off. under the wire nut and the incoming
Then run the cable from the main panel black hot wire to the other wire (polarity
to where the thermostat will be located. doesn't matter here, so you don't have to
Run another cable from the thermostat worry about which wires the incoming
to the heater. The cable must be brought wires are connected to). Then connect
to one end of the heater, where the con¬ the ground wire to the grounding termi¬
nections will be made. nal. With that done, replace the cover.

The instructions will tell you the mount¬ Before you power up the heater, how¬
ing height of the thermostat. It can be ever, double-check the wiring to the
installed in a standard receptacle or thermostat. A very common mistake is to
switch box, but be sure the box has at wire the incoming hot wires immediately
across the thermostat switch (one to the
line side and the other to the load side).
When the thermostat is turned on, a

132 CHAPTER MME

SPECIAL INSTALLATIONS 133
 Remove the wire nut from one end of the
Leave this end aione.
baseboard unit and untwist the wires.

direct short will occur across these wires. tion. An in-heater thermostat can be
Make sure both hot feeder wires are either single or double pole (most are
attached to the line side. If you've single pole).
reversed these wires and turn on the
heater, you'll hear a loud pop fronn the The first step is to pull the cable from the
thermostat, and the breaker will trip off. main panel to one end of the heater.
After double-checking the wiring, restore Once you have the cable to the correct
power and test the unit. location, install the heater following the
manufacturer's instructions.
When you turn on an electric baseboard
heater for the first time, it is quite normal Before wiring, make sure power is turned
for the unit to smoke a little and to off. Then remove the cover from one end
smell. But don't worry. It's just the ele¬ of the unit and untwist the wires, leaving
ment being broken in. You may want to the other end alone (see the drawing
open the doors and windows while you above). Install an NM connector in the
break in the unit. A heater may also unit's knockout to protect the cable from
smoke and smell after sitting idle for a the sharp edges. Pull the cable through
long period of time. and make the connections. Again, this is
a 240-volt circuit, so both the black and
Wiring an in-heater thermostat white wires will be hot (tape the white
Putting the thermostat in the end of the wire black to indicate it's hot).
baseboard heater is easier than installing
a wall-mounted thermostat because you
simply run one cable to the heater's loca¬

134 CHAPTER NIHE

For a single-pole thermostat, connect one the thermostat to the heater. Again,
incoming hot wire to the thermostat and polarity doesn't matter here. Once the

the other incoming hot wire to the ele¬ wiring has been done, restore power and

ment (there's no polarity involved test the heater.

because this is a 240-volt circuit). Then
connect the ground wire to the ground¬ Water heater
ing terminal (seeThe top drawing above). Wiring an electric water heater can be
done by most anyone, but it's important

For a double-pole thermostat, connect that you follow all the manufacturer's

the incoming hot wires to the line side installation instructions for safety and for

of the thermostat (see the bottom draw¬ optimum performance.

ing above). Then connect the load side of

SPECIAL i^STALLATiOHS 135

 INO A Wa SI I I:i4i' ’ *

Incoming power Hot-water Cold-water

The white wire is outlet inlet Green
grounding
screw

The white wire is

taped black to
Indicate it’s hot.

240-volt
water heater
The cutoff switch can be
a fused or nonfused The cable from the cutoff
disconnect rated for the switch to the water heater is
load of the heater- encased in conduit (flexible
norm ally 30 amps. It must in earthquake zones).
be close to the heater.

A standard water heater is comprised of lines. Although some smaller water

an outer jacket, a layer of insulation, and heaters (30 gal.) use 120 volts, the stan¬
a water tank. Depending on the maker of dard 50-gal. electric water heater
the unit, the heater will have either one installed today is 240 volts with a 4,500-
or two heating elements that heat the watt heating element (some models have
water. The elements are controlled by a two elements). Because the element pulls
thermostat (one for each) and an internal a lot of amps, it should be wired with
overload switch, which cuts off power if 10-gauge cable and should be protected
the unit overheats. by a 30-amp fuse or breaker.

An electric water heater is required by If you are replacing a water heater, and
the manufacturer to be on a hard-wired the existing wiring is 12 gauge, you can
dedicated circuit, and the NEC says you still install the standard 4,500-watt
must follow the manufacturer's guide¬

136 CHAPTER MIME

heater. However, you'll have to use a Run another cable from the cutoff switch
smaller element, such as 3,500 watts to the water heater's splice box (typically
(elements are available in wattages from located on top of the unit). If the heater
1,500 to 4,500) so that you do not over¬ is in a habitable area, such as a base¬
heat the wires. There is nothing wrong ment, the cable from the cutoff switch to
with using a smaller-wattage element in the heater must be enclosed in conduit
a larger heater: It just takes longer to (flexible in earthquake zones).
heat the water.
Connect the cable to the outgoing termi¬
But because the water heater has a label nals on the cutoff switch. At the heater's
on its jacket that lists the specs of the splice box, connect the two incoming
unit (including the element wattage), hot wires to the two hot wires of the
there is a possible safety risk involved heater—no polarity is required, so don't
with installing a smaller-wattage element. worry about matching the colors of the
If the element blows at any point, a wires. Assuming the heater pulls 240
plumber, electrician, or do-it-yourselfer volts, the white wire will be hot, so cover
will look at that label to find the size it with black tape to indicate it's hot. Do
of the replacement element. If he installs so at the heater, at the cutoff switch, and
the 4,500-watt element noted on the at the main panel.
label, and the heater has 12-gauge wires,
the element could overheat the wires. Be sure to ground the water heater via
To avoid any confusion, if you replace the grounding terminal in the splice box.
the standard element with a lower- An ungrounded water heater is a safety
wattage one, indicate that you have hazard. I had one service call in which the
done so on the water heater's label—and homeowner complained of getting
use large letters. shocked off the copper plumbing lines as
he was trying to repair a split where the
A cutoff switch (also called a disconnect metal pipes had frozen. Sometimes he
switch or lockout) is required if the water would receive a shock, and other times
heater is out of sight of the main panel. he wouldn't. I traced the fault current
Its purpose is to provide a measure of back to the water heater, and I noticed
safety while you work on the heater; No that the water heater was ungrounded. I
one can mistakenly turn on the power pulled off the cover over the bottom ele¬
without you knowing about it. The cutoff ment and saw that the element had
switch can be a fused or nonfused dis¬ corroded. Its wire (with screw attached)
connect (either a breaker or double-pole had pulled away and was touching the
switch) rated for 240 volts. metal case of the heater. Every time
the upper thermostat applied power
Bring the cable from the main panel to to the bottom element, the current
the cutoff-switch box, which should be would short over to the metal jacket and
located as close as possible to the heater. into the metal plumbing pipes. A very
Install NM connectors in the knockouts to dangerous situation indeed.
protect the cable. Then pull the cable into
the box and connect the incoming wires If you have metal water pipes, it's also
to the incoming terminals on the switch. important to run a bonding jumper
around the water heater, as shown in the
drawing on p. 21. The bonding jumper

SPECIAL INSTALLATIONS 137

 will allow the ground connection to The receptacle can be surface mounted
remain intact even if the water heater is or flush mounted. I find that the surface
nonmetallic or if it is removed for mainte¬ mount is easier to install because it
nance or is replaced. comes with its own housing, or box. First,
turn off the power. Then bring the cable
Testing the water heater Once all the to the location, if it's not already there,
wiring has been completed, make the and screw the receptacle to the base of
plumbing connections. There will be a the wall (to a stud or to the floor). Then
cold-water inlet and a hot-water outlet terminate the wires under the appropri¬
at the top of the heater. ate set screws on the receptacles (see the
top drawing pn theTacing page), which
After the plumbing connections have will be marked for proper wiring. After
been made, test the water heater. But it's wiring, attach the cover, restore power,
important to fill the heater completely plug in the oven, and turn it on.
with water before restoring power to the
circuit. If there is an air pocket inside Installation of a flush-mount receptacle is
the heater when the unit is turned on, more difficult, so it lends itself to new
an element could blow. construction or installations in which the
wall is already opened. A flush-mount
To fill the tank, turn on the cold-water receptacle requires a large-volume box
valve on the cold-water inlet, then turn (30 cu. in.) that is sold separately, as well
on a hot-water faucet in the house. as a special cover plate to which the
When water flows continuously out of receptacle is mounted. First, make sure
the hot-water faucet, the tank is full. power is off, then securely attach the box
Once the tank is full, restore power, turn to a stud and bring the cable into it. Put
on the water heater, and you're ready for the cover plate on the box and make the
a hot shower in around an hour. connections to the receptacle (see the
bottom drawing on the facing page).
Electric oven Again, the receptacle terminals will be
A standard slide-in electric oven uses labeled, so you'll know which wires go
120 volts and 240 volts (120 for the where. Once wired, attach the receptacle
timer and 240 for the burners and bake to the cover plate, restore power, and
unit) and plugs into a 50-amp receptacle plug in the oven.
wired with 6-gauge copper, four-conduc¬
tor cable (two hot wires, one neutral, and Electric dryer
one ground). It must be on a dedicated A standard electric dryer is a cord-and-
circuit and requires 40- or 50-amp over¬ plug appliance that uses both 120 and
current protection. 240 volts (120 for the timer and 240 for
the heating element).
The receptacle must be mounted low so
that the bottom panel or drawer of the The drawings on p. 140 show three
oven can be removed (in theory) to dis¬ methods of wiring a dryer receptacle.
connect the unit. If you don't have access The two on the left are in violation of the
to the receptacle, the NEC requires NEC because the ground becomes a
you to wire it through a cutoff switch current-carrying conductor—it is attached
installed in an accessible location. to the neutral terminal of the receptacle.
 Surface-mount receptacle

The receptacle
screws to the
base of the wall.

Flush-mount receptacle

Cover plate

Neutral

Hot

The receptacle attaches to a large- Ground

volume box with a raised cover plate

SPECIAL iNSTALLATiOHS 139

 Wiring A Dryer Receptacle

Violation Violation as of 1996 NEC Meets current NEC guidelines

10-gauge, four-
10-gauge, three- conductor cable
conductor cable
The white 3V4-in.- to 3V2-in
wire is hot. deep box.

Hot Hot

Neutral

Ground Stranded Hot

connected to neutral
the neutral
terminal 30-amp, four-pole, three-wire
grounding receptacle

Anyone touching the ground down¬ A surface-mount receptacle comes with

stream could be electrocuted. If you have its own housing, or box. To install it, cut
either of these, I recommend replacing off power, bring the cable to the loca¬
them with a code-approved receptacle tion, and attach the receptacle to the
and cable (see the right drawing above). wall. Then terminate the wires under the
appropriate set screws on the receptacle,
The NEC now requires the dryer to have a which will be marked for proper wiring.
four-blade plug and the receptacle to be After wiring, attach the cover, restore
wired with 10-gauge, four-conductor power, plug in the dryer, and turn it on.
cable—two hot wires, one neutral, and
one ground—with 30-amp overcurrent A flush-mount dryer receptacle requires a
protection. A dryer receptacle is 30 amps large-volume box (30 cu. in.) that will be
and can be surface mounted or flush sold separately, as well as a special cover
mounted, and the installation procedures plate to which the receptacle is mounted.
are pretty much the same as those for an Simply follow the same steps you did for
electric-oven receptacle. a flush-mount oven receptacle. Turn off
power, then securely attach the box to a
stud within the wall and bring the cable

140 CHAPTER NINE

into it. Put the cover plate on the box and Also see if the appliance is supposed to
make the connections to the receptacle. be on a dedicated circuit. Other loads or
As with the surface-mount receptacle, appliances placed on the circuit could be
the terminals will be labeled. Once wired, causing an overload, which will make the
attach the receptacle to the cover plate, overcurrent-protection device cut off
restore power, and plug in the dryer. power to the circuit.

Troubleshooting If all these things turn out to be okay, the

All appliances come with an instruction wires could be damaged or too old and
manual complete with troubleshooting worn, causing a short somewhere along
steps that will help you locate and the run, which will trip the breaker or
solve sources of difficulties with the blow the fuse. To check the wiring,
appliance, so there's no need to spend remove power from the circuit and dis¬
a lot of time on this process here. But connect the appliance, capping the hot
there are a few general wiring mistakes wire with a wire nut so that it can't short
to look for—before calling the mainte¬ out against anything metal (you can sim¬
nance man—that will make an appliance ply unplug a cord-and-plug appliance).
malfunction or not work at all. Then restore power to the circuit. If the
breaker trips off or the fuse blows, the
If the appliance is not working at all, wires are bad and should be replaced. If
check the splices and the connections nothing happens, the problem lies with
(turn off power for this) to be sure they the appliance and you should call a main¬
are still tight. If the appliance has a cord tenance person. You can do this test for
and plug, make sure the cord has not any appliance.
worked loose. If the connections seem
okay, make sure the breaker or fuse has TELEPHONE WIRING
not tripped off. The homeowner is now responsible for
the in-house telephone system, which
If the appliance is working, but the means that either you do the wiring and
breaker or fuse continues to trip off maintain it or you hire a contractor.
when the appliance is turned on, a likely Because phone wiring is low voltage and
cause of the problem is that the wrong- the wires are small, which makes them
size wire gauge was used in the easy to pull through walls, there's no rea¬
installation. Check the manufacturer's son why anyone can't handle this job.
instructions to see that the proper-gauge
wire and overprotection (fuse and In this section 1 will tell you how to install
breaker size) have been used. For telephone wiring properly so that it will
instance, if the manufacturer recom¬ be easy to maintain and will provide
mends 12-gauge wire and 20-amp many years of good service. There are
protection, be sure the installer hasn't two steps to the installation process; con¬
used 14-gauge wire and 15-amp protec¬ necting to the protector box where the
tion (for more on wire gauge and telephone-company cable enters the
overcurrent protection, see Chapter 2). house, and wiring and installing the wall-
If you have moved into a new home, mounted phone jacks.
it's a good idea to check the wire size
to be sure it's the correct gauge for Connecting to the protector box
the appliance. The protector box, officially called a
network interface device (NID), is located
on the outside of the house usually
near the electrical meter base. It provides

SPECIAL INSTALLATiOiiS 141

 the interface between the telephone- terminal. Each terminal will have a red or
company cable and the in-house green wire attached to it already, so you
telephone wiring. The telephone-com¬ just have to match like-colored wires.
pany cable stops here and the in-house Then fold the backup pair away from the
wiring begins. terminals for possible future use.

Although different protector boxes may If you want to feed multiple phone jacks
be wired differently, the incoming cable from these terminals, and you can't fit all
from the phone company usually enters the wires under the terminals, take a
the bottom left of the box and feeds two multipair cable from the protector box to
modular telephone jacks in top. The jacks a master splice box inside the house. (The
allow for the wiring of two phone lines— master splice box is nothing more than a
two different numbers—in the house. standard double-gang nonmetallic electri¬
The jacks at the top of the box are wired cal box.) From the master splice box, you
into four small screw terminals on the can wire as many jacks as you need to
right-hand side of the protector box. The and splice the cables to the multipair
top two terminals are for one line (one cable. You can splice telephone wires by
phone number), and the bottom two are twisting them together, by twisting them
for a separate phone line. Any number of together and then soldering them, by
house telephone wires can connect to tightening them under screw terminals,
these little terminals. (Unlike electrical or by using a mechanical splice device
installations, it's okay to put a number of called a Scotchlock (made by 3M and
wires under each terminal.) available at your local phone store or
electrical supply store).
Typical home telephone cable is com¬
posed of four wires called "two pair." Installing phone jacks
One pair of wires is red and green, and Telephone cable is run through the house
the other is black and yellow. The red and just as electrical cable is run (see Chapter
green pair is the primary pair; the black 3). But because it's thinner and more flex¬
and yellow pair is the backup. The back¬ ible, pulling it through the walls is easier.
up pair is needed in case the first pair But be careful. Because the cable is thin¬
gets damaged, and it is also used when ner, it's also easier to break. You can also
you want to add a second phone to run the cable outside the walls along the
that line. Multipair cable (which has 4 baseboard trim. This type of run is perfect
to 12 pairs of wires) is available for feed¬ for add-ons.
ing multiple phone lines, but these are
not typical installations. Phone cable can Once you get the cable to the proper
be obtained from your local telephone location, install the wall jack. You have
company, hardware store, or electrical two options. If the wires are inside the
supply store. wall, you can install a standard single¬
gang electrical box in the wall and attach
To connect the in-house phone cable to the jack to that. If the wires have been
the protector box, bring the cable in run outside the walls, you can buy a spe¬
through the grommet on the bottom cial jack that attaches to baseboard trim.
right of the box. Once inside, run the The special jack can be installed without
cable to the terminals through the gutter cutting a large hole in the wall for the
in the right side of the box. Remove box. Phone jacks can be purchased just
about Vi in. of insulation from each wire about anywhere, including your local
end and connect the red wire to one ter¬ telephone store and hardware store.
minal and the green to the other
Wiring Telephone Jacks

Series

Parallel

SPECIAL INSTALLATIONS 143

Wiring phone jacks Once the attachments have been made,
There are two basic systems of wiring put the wall jack in place. If you have an
wall-mounted phone jacks in a house: outlet box with a standard wall jack,
series or parallel (see the drawings on attach the jack to the box with the
p. 143). The theory behind each system is screws provided. If you have used a jack
identical to receptacles wired in series or that mounts outside the wall, screw it to
parallel (see Chapter 3). the baseboard trim or to the wall.

Wiring in series is not preferred here Adding a jack

because if one break occurs along the If you want to add a jack to the phone
line, everything after that break is system, you can simply run a new cable
disconnected. It also takes longer to back to the protector box or to the mas¬
troubleshoot a faulty jack because the ter splice box from the new jack (wiring
problem could be with any of the jacks in parallel), or you can feed it off an exist¬
or wires in the circuit. Unfortunately, ing jack (wiring in series). The latter is not
unless you ask otherwise, series probably preferred, but it will be easier because
is what you'll get even if you hire a pro¬ you won't have to cut through the walls.
fessional to run the cables and install the Instead, you can simply run the cable
wall jacks. To wire in series, connect the along the baseboard trim and connect to
cable to the terminals in the protector a special surface-mount phone jack.
box, and feed one wall jack. The first
jack will feed the second, the second Other options for adding phones are to
will feed the third, and so on. replace a single wall jack with a double
jack or to add a modular Y adapter to the
Wiring in parallel is the only way I go single jack—both will provide two con¬
because troubleshooting is easier, if one nections at one location. Then you can
jack is not working, I know the problem simply buy two phone cables with plugs
lies in that one circuit: I don't have to on either end and run them along the
check every one to find the trouble. base of the wall and to both phones.
Wiring in parallel takes a little longer and
is slightly more expensive, but it's worth Troubleshooting
it. To wire in parallel, run a separate cable There are two problems that are typical
for each jack you are installing. If you for phone lines: no dial tone and noise
can't fit all the wires under the terminals, on the line. If you are not getting a dial
run a multipair cable from the protector tone from your phone lines, you must
box to a master splice box and begin the first find out if the trouble lies outside or
runs from there. within the house. As I said before, the
phone company is responsible only
Regardless of whether you wire in series for the wiring to the protector box
or parallel, the connections at the phone from the outside.
jack are identical. Strip about 2 in. of
sheathing from the cable end and then Bring a phone outside to the protector
strip about Vi in. from the ends of the red box and pull the incoming telephone
and green wires. Wind the red wire cable out of the box's jack (top left of the
around the terminal that already has a box). It pushes in and pulls out like a
red wire around it, and do the same with standard modular cord. Plug your phone
the green wire. Fold the yellow and black into the jack and listen for a dial tone
wires back for possible use later.
(wait two minutes for the telephone tion at the jack. Remove the jack from
equipment to reset). If you get one, the wall and inspect the wires. If you see
the problem is in your house. If not, the any bare spots, tape them up. If the jack
problem is with the wiring to the house, has loose or corroded terminals, replace
so call the phone company. it. Also make sure that all connections are
tight. If none of these solves the problem,
If the problem is with the in-house try switching the cable pair and using the
wiring, how you proceed will depend backup pair.
on whether the system was wired in
series or in parallel. In a series system, Another noise problem common on
if one jack loses the dial tone, all the phone lines is a phenomenon called cross
others after it will lose the signal. The talk, which comes from the telephone
trick is finding which jack has the prob¬ company. Somewhere in the main tele¬
lem. If all the jacks are not working, phone cables, a signal on a cable pair
the trouble lies in the connection adjacent to your phone cable has a signal
from the protector box to the first one. that is too loud and is feeding into your
Unfortunately, you have to figure out cable pair, allowing you to hear talking
which jack is the first by tracing the cable on another line.
from the protector box (which may or
may not be possible to do). Cross talk normally happens when radio
stations broadcast their transmissions
If the system is wired in parallel, only one over local telephone lines to a remote
jack will not be working—the others will transmitter. They jack the signal up
still work. First remove the wall jack that's higher than they're supposed to so they
not working. Check for burned or cor¬ can overcome signal loss as it travels to
roded terminals on the jack. If you see the remote transmitter. The telephone
any, replace the jack. If the terminals are company may say the problem doesn't
in good shape, check the condition of the exist. If you don't get satisfactory
wires and make sure the connections are answers from the telephone company

tight. If all seems okay at the jack, follow about cross talk, file a complaint with
the same steps at the protector box out¬ the State Corporation Commission. The

side the house. State Corporation Commission is an

agency responsible for enforcement of

If both locations look to be in good the duties of all public service companies,

shape, remove the red and green wires at including phone and utility companies.

the jack and protector box and use the You'll find the number in the government

backup pair (the black and yellow wires). pages of your phone book.

If you still don't get a dial tone, the cable

is probably broken along its run or the
jack is bad. Try replacing the jack first. If
that doesn't work, run a new cable.

If you have a lot of noise on the line, the

source could be gne of the wires shorting
out on a piece of metal (typical if you
used a metal outlet box for the jack) or
just a loose, corroded, or burned connec-

SPECiAL mSTALLATiOHS 145

Alternating current (AC) Conduit A plastic or metal pipe Equipment grounding con¬
Current that first flows in one direc¬ used to protect wires and cable. See ductor The conductor that con¬
tion and then returns. It creates a sine also Armored cable and Greenfield. nects the frame of an appliance
wave that rises above and below a into the grounding system. It is
0-voltage reference point. Conductor Any material that can
normally tine bare wire in a cable.
conduct electricity. Normally a copper
Ampacity The current-carrying or aluminum wire. Fuse A device that opens a circuit
capacity of a wire. For example, the when a predetermined amount of
ampacity of a 12-gauge wire is Continuity An uninterrupted elec¬
electrical current is exceeded.
20 amps. trical path between two points.
Gauge The diameter of a wire ref¬
Ampere (amp) The unit of mea¬ Current The organized flow of
erenced to the American Wire Gauge
sure for current flow. The amperage electrons from one point to another
Standard of measurement. The larger
of a circuit can be measured with a on a circuit. It is measured in amperes
the diameter, the less resistance a con¬
multimeter. See also Current. (amps). Current can be increased by
ductor will have to current flow. In
raising the voltage or by lowering
general, the larger the gauge number,
Arcing A luminous discharge of resistance. It can be decreased by low¬
the smaller the wire diameter. For
electrical current between two points. ering the voltage or by increasing
example, 12-gauge wire is larger in
resistance.
diameter than 18-gauge wire.
Armored cable (BX) A flexible,
metal-clad cable with the wires Cutoff switch A switch that can
Greenfield A flexible-metal wire
factory-installed. disconnect the electricity to an appli¬
casing installed in the field to protect
ance during an emergency or for
exposed wires or cable.
Bonding Connecting two conduc¬
maintenance. It may or may not be
tors mechanically to assure electrical
fused. Also called a disconnect. Ground fault A short circuit that
continuity.
occurs when a hot wire touches a
Dedicated circuit A circuit dedi¬
ground or a noncurrent-carrying con¬
Branch circuit A wire or conduc¬
cated to one specific appliance(s) or
ductor.
tor that starts at the main panel and
to a receptacle or receptacles in one
feeds one or more loads.
specific area. Ground-fault circuit interrupter
Cable Two or more conductors
(GFCI) A safety device that com¬
Derate To lower the amount of
pares the amount of current going
inside a sheath.
current a circuit is allowed to have.
to a load to the amount coming
Capacitance The ability of an back. It will open the circuit in a flash
Direct current (DC) Current that
object to retain electrical energy. if the return current is lower because
flows in one direction only. Normally
it means the current is following a
created from a chemical reaction
Circuit A complete path of cur¬ path through something else (possibly
within a battery or within a power
rent between the power source and a person).
supply of electronic equipment.
the load.
Ground rod An 8-ft. to 10-ft.
Disconnect See Cutoff switch.
Circuit breaker A mechanical rod driven into the earth near the
device that will open an electrical cir¬
Electrical bus See Grounding bus. main panel to bleed stray grounding
cuit when a predetermined amount of
Hot bus, and Neutral bus. currents and surges away from the
current is exceeded.

146
house and into the earth. The rod is Knockouts Removable sections grounding wires connected to it as
normally ys-in.-dia. copper-clad or gal¬ of both metal and nonmetallic well and is also connected to earth
vanized metal. boxes (also on panel boxes) through ground via the ground rods.
which incoming and outgoing cables
Ground wire The wire inside a are passed.
Neutral current The return
cable (normally the bare wire) that current from a load to the main
connects to the receptacle or switch Load The user of supplied electric¬ panel and ultimately to the utility
grounding screw. See also Equip¬ ity, such as a toaster, air conditioner, transformer.
ment grounding conductor. or hard-wired appliance.
Neutral wire The white insulated
Grounded Connected directly or Main breaker The large circuit wire in a circuit between a load and
indirectly to earth. A piece of equip¬ breaker in the top of the main panel the main panel providing a path for
ment is grounded if a grounding wire that all of the house current flows return, or neutral, current.
(equipment grounding conductor) through (also called the main). It will
Noncurrent-carrying conductor
connects it back to the neutral/ disconnect all the power to the house
A material that can conduct electricity
grounding bus at the main panel. if a predetermined amount of current
but normally does not, such as the
is exceeded.
Grounding bus See Neutral/ metal frame of an appliance.

grounding bus. Main panel The main fuse box or

Ohm Unit of measure for resistance.
circuit-breaker box where the utility
Grounding electrode The wires from the meter base come to
Overload Occurs when a load is
ground rod and anything else that and where all the branch-circuit wires
placed on a circuit that exceeds the
the grounding electrode conductor originate. Also called the panel board,
rating of the wiring and the circuit
connects into the earth. service panel, or just panel.
breaker or fuse.

Grounding electrode conductor Multimeter A piece of test equip¬

Panel bond In reference to the
A bare copper wire, usually 6 or 4 ment used to measure voltage,
main panel, the attachment of the
gauge, that connects the house elec¬ current, and resistance. (Some will
panel's neutral/grounding bus to the
trical system to the ground rods. also perform a continuity test.)
metal framework of the panel via a

Grounding system—Any part of screw or wire. If a hot wire hits a

National Electric Code (NEC)
the electrical system that directly or bonded panel, the breaker belonging
The organization that sets and pub¬
indirectly connects to earth ground. to the hot wire will trip. If the panel is
lishes voluntary nationwide wiring
not bonded, the panel frame would
codes, which are adopted and
Hot bus The flat, insulated metal remain at the same potential as the
enforced by official agencies to keep
bar that runs down the center of the hot wire hitting it and would shock
electrical wiring and installation of
main panel and connects to the anyone who touched it. The same
that wiring standardized and safe. The
incoming hot power cable. logic would apply to the frame of any
code is revised every three years.
metal-panel housing such as the cut¬
Hotwire A wire that carries cur¬
off panel for a water heater.
Neutral The return path of AC
rent to a load. It is normally a red or
current to its source. See also
black wire. Panel box The metal box that
Neutral current.
holds the circuit breakers or fuses.
Impedance The total sum of the
Neutral/grounding bus The
opposition to current flow. Pigtail A small wire approximately
metal bus within the main panel that
6 in. long.
the neutrals (white wires) of the
Induced voltage Voltage that is
branch-circuit cables connect to. In a
created when the lines of an electro¬ Polarity A reference to polariza¬
main panel the neutral bus is more tion, meaning a specific wire must
magnetic field cut into a conductor.
correctly called a neutral grounding
connect to a specific terminal.
bus because it has all the bare

GLOSSARY 147
Power Normally measured in watts, Transformer A device used to Voltage drop The amount of volt¬
it is the amount of electricity you are transform electrical energy from one age lost along a conductor from the
actually using or referencing too. circuit to another. It can lower the power source to the load. In general,
energy or increase it. A transformer the longer the distance between
Primary voltage The voltage on
at the utility pole lowers the high volt¬ power source and load, the greater
the utility side of the transformer.
age on the power lines to a voltage the voltage drop.
Normally 7,200 volts or 19,900 volts.
that can be used in the house. Trans¬
formers at electrical substations Voltage surge A voltage spike
Protector box A panel installed
increase the voltage so that it doesn't that exceeds the 120-volt line voltage.
outside the house that acts as the
dissipate over long distances. Typically cause by lightning strikes or
interface between the incoming
electrical malfunctions.
telephone cable and the house tele¬
UL approved A product that is
phone lines. Volt-ohm meter (VOM) The pre¬
approved by United Laboratories for
its intended use. decessor to the multimeter.
Resistance The opposition to cur¬
rent flow. The unit of measure for Wire nut Insulated mechanical
UL listed A product that is on a list
resistance is ohms and is designated wire connector originated by the Ideal
for approval by United Laboratories.
by the word or the Greek omega sign company.
(fl). Resistance can be measured with United Laboratories (UL) An
a multimeter. independent testing laboratory that Yoke The metal support around a

sets standards for products and certi¬ switch or receptacle that holds it
Secondary voltage The utility
fies that those products comply with together and fastens it to the
voltage on the house side of the utility outlet box.
those standards. In simple terms, UL
transformer, normally 120/240 volts.
verifies that a manufacturer's product
will do what the manufacturer says
Service entrance The path the
it will do. A lot of electrical equipment
service-entrance cable takes between
requires a label indicating that UL has
the utility transformer and the
tested the equipment for its intended
main panel.
use, or it may not pass inspection.
Service-entrance cable The
Watt Unit of energy that indicates
large-diameter cable that brings the
how much power an appliance will
secondary utility voltage to the
use. See Power.
main panel.

Volt Unit of measure of electrical

Short circuit Occurs when hot
pressure (voltage).
and neutral wires touch, making the
neutral wire current carrying.
Voltage Electrical pressure created
by a chemical reaction, as in a car
Signal gain The signal-gathering
battery, or mechanically created by
ability of an antenna.
a generator. It is measured in volts,
Sone A subjective unit of loudness and when a quantity of voltage is
equal to the intensity of a 1,000-hertz written, a capital V or the word
tone 40 decibels above the listener's volts normally follows the numerical
own threshold of hearing. quantity. Voltage can be measured
with a multimeter.

148 GLOSSARY
INDEX
around doors, 34 repairing damaged sec- •
A sizing, 94, 95
switches for, 98 through existing walls, tion of, 119
Antennas: troubleshooting, 103 34 running, 109, 110, 117
adjusting, 112 venting, 101 around windows, 34 splitter in, 109
controller for, 112 wiring, 98, 99, 100 stapling, 130 stapling, 109
grounding, 111 Blades, for ceiling fans: for stereo systems, 122 for TV systems, 105
old-style, 111 balancing, 84 for TV systems, 104-110 Coaxial cable. See Coax
parts of, 112 pitch of, 85 See also Coax cable. cable.
reception with, quality sizing, 85 Twin lead. Cross talk, defined, 145
of, 112 types of, 84 for water heaters, 136 Current:
and size, 112 Bonding jumper; for telephones, 142 calculating, 3
UHF, 112 defined, 21, 23 UF, for post lights, 77 defined, 2
VHF, 112 on metal water pipes, 137 Can lights. See Recessed flow of, 2
Appliances; Boxes, electrical: lights. types of, 2
grounding, 23 accessibility of, 130 Ceiling fans;
troubleshooting, 141
wiring, 126, 128-132,
adjustable, 30
bringing cables into, 32
accessories for, 86
blades for, 84-85
D
134-138, 140-141 ceiling, boxes for, 86, 88 Dedicated circuits;
See also specific appli¬ bar-hanger, 52 bridging for, 90 and appliance manufac¬
ances. cut-in, 52 choosing, 82-87 turers, 127
installing, 52 cost of, 82 defined, 127
discussed, 15, 127
B integral-nail, 52
metal, 50
drop pipes for, 90
installing, 86 and National Electric
Ballasts, for fluorescent nonmetallic, 50 light kits for, 86 Code, 127
lights: pancake, 52 looks of, 82 where required, 127
cold-weather, 63 volume of, 50, 52 motors for, 84-86 Dishwashers:
electronic, 63 for ceiling fans, 87, 88, mounting, 88, 90 cable for, 128
problems with, 63 problems with, 93 hard-wired, 128
90
replacing, 67 choosing, 27 remote controls for, 86 wiring, 128-129
standard, 63 cut-in, 30 sizing, 85 Drills:
Baseboard heaters: installing, 30-31 space for, 84 cordless, 7
cable for, 131 materials for, 27 for summer cooling, 83 right-angle, 7
dedicated circuit for, 131 metal, 27, 30 supporting, heavy, 88 Drill bits:
installing, 131 nonmetallic, 27, 30 switches for, 91, 93 auger, 8
testing, 134 troubleshooting, 93 spade, 7
parts of, 31
thermostats for, 132-135 and vaulted ceilings, 91 stepped, 9
volume of, 27
wiring, 132, 134, 135 warranties for, 84 Drip loops, making, 114
Bulbs:
See also Thermostats. for winter warming, 83 Drop pipes, for ceiling fans,
replacing, broken, 66
Bathroom fans: wiring, 91, 93 90
testing, 49
and noise, 95 Center contact, of socket: Dryers;
Bus, electrical;
cfm ratings of, 96 bending, 65 cable for, 140
covering, 17
choosing, 94 cleaning, 65 overcurrent protection for,
exposed, 17
combination units, Circuit breakers; 140
tabs on, 17
covers for, 96 function of, 14 receptacle for, 140
tabs on, corroded, 18
with heater, 96 inspecting, 17, 19 wiring, 138, 140
water-damaged, 18
with light, 96 in main panel, 14, 17
problems with, 97
wiring, 102, 103 c and water, 18, 19 E
for water heaters, 136
discussed, 94-103 Electrical system, inspect¬
Cable, service-entrance; wiring, 17
duct for, 101 . ing, 10-25
inspecting, 12 Coax cable:
installing, 97 Electricity:
problems with, 12 buying, 106
locating, 97 elements of, 2
Cables: drip loops in, 114
loud, 95 flow of, 2
entering boxes, 32 F-connectors for, 106,
mounting, 97, 99 working with,
exposed, protecting, 130 108
purpose of, 94 safety rules for, 8, 9
leaving boxes, 32 grounding, 110, 114
quiet, 95 tools for, 3
running, 32, impedance of, 117

149
 See also Current. Power. inspecting, 20
Resistance. Voltage. location of, 20
j N
Entry lights: material for, 20 Jacks. See TV jacks. Network interface device
choosing, 69 number of, 20 Telephone jacks. (NID):
installing, 70 size of, 20 location of, 141
purpose of, 69 Ground wire: L purpose of, 142
wiring, 142
warranties for, 69 attaching to ground rod,
20 Landscape lights, low- NM connectors:
voltage: purpose of, 56
F clamp for, 20
bulbs for, 78 shown, 99
inspecting, 20
F-connectors; cost of, 78
size of, 20
cost of, 108 installing, 80
installing, 107, 108
Ground-fault circuit inter¬
lighting effects with, 0
rupters (GFCIs):
types of, 106 78-80 Ohm's law:
for post lights, 77
Floodlights: purpose of, 78 defined, 3
receptacle, 41
high-intensity discharge testing, 41 styles of, 78 ' formulas for, 3
(HID), types of, 41 transformers for, 78 Ovens:
bulbs for, 72 wiring, 41 and voltage drop, 80 in-wall,
cautions with, 72 wattages of, 78 box for, 130
Grounding electrode con¬
drawbacks of, 72 ductor. See Ground Light fixtures, interior: cable for, 129, 130
incandescent, wire. boxes for, 50 wiring, 129, 130
bulbs for, 70 choosing, 5 overcurrent protection for,
Grounding system, inspect¬
cost of, 70 ing, 19 discussed, 50-67 138
drawbacks of, 70 Grounding: troubleshooting, 65-67 slide-in,
operating costs of, 70 adapter for, 23 Light fixtures, outdoor: cable for, 138
types of, 70, 72, 73 choosing, 68 dedicated circuit for, 138
of antennas, 111
quartz-halogen, discussed, 68-81 receptacle for, 138
of appliances, 23
advantages of, 71 mounting, 69 wiring, 138
of beams, metal, 23
bulbs for, 71 quality of, 68 Overcurrent protection:
of coax cable, 110, 114
cautions with, 71 troubleshooting, 80-81 defined, 14
of ductwork, metal, 23
cost of, 71 Lightning: for dryers, 140
of garage-door rails, 23
problems with, 71 of metal pipes, 137 getting into the house, for ovens, 130
Fluorescent lights: 123 for water heaters, 136
of receptacles, 23
ballasts for, 63 rule of thumb for, 19 protecting against, 123 See also Circuit breakers.
bulbs for, 62 of water heaters, 137 Lights. See specific fixtures. Fuses.
buzzing with, 67 of water pipes, metal, 21 Overfusing:
choosing, 62 M defined, 14
fixtures for, 62 preventing, 14
installing, 63 H Main panels:
access to, 17
mounting, 63
plug-and-cord, 62
Home-entertainment sys¬
circuit breakers in, 14, 16 p
tems, discussed, 104-
replacing ballast in, 67 122 fuses in, 14, 16 Panels, electrical. See Main
starter for, 67 See also Stereo systems. in basement, 17 panels.
testing, 64 TV systems. inspecting, 13-19, 16, 19 Pigtail, defined, 40
troubleshooting, 67 Home theater: locating, 13 Post lights:
under-cabinet, 65 amplifiers for, 118 and water, 17, 19 housings for, 77
wiring, 63, 64 creating, 118 Meter base: installing, 77, 78
See also Ballasts. speakers for, 118 inspecting, 12, 13 troubleshooting, 81
Fuses: Home Ventilation Institute, water-damaged, 13 wiring, 77, 78
cartridge, 15 mentioned, 95 Motion detectors: Power, calculating, 3
function of, 14 adapters for, 74, 75 Protector box. See Network
in main panels, 14 cost of, 75 interface device (NID).
inspecting, 15-16 field of view of, 75
Incandescent lights: installing, 75, 76
plug, 15
lighting loads of, 73
R
types of, 15 bulb sockets for, 53
bulbs for, 53 locating, 75 Receptacles:
for water heaters, 136
changing bulbs of, 54 mounting height of, 75 amperages of, 36
choosing, 52-54 purpose of, 73 boxes for, 27, 30
G design of, 52-53 testing, 76 choosing, 28, 29
Garbage disposals: installing, 55 troubleshooting, 81 commercial-grade, 28-29
dedicated circuit for, 130 teardrop bulbs for, 53 wiring, 76 covers for, while-in-use,
installing, 130 troubleshooting, 65 Multimeters: 80
switch for, 130 for wet areas, 54 as continuity tester, 49 damaged, 24
wiring, 130 wiring, 55 clamp-on, 4 for dryers, 140
Gauge, of wire, defined, 15 Inspections: for troubleshooting, 49 GFCI, 41
Ground rods: frequency of, 10 types of, 4 grounding, 23
discussed, 19 importance of, 10 uses for, 4 heavy-duty, 28-29

150 li^OEX
 inspecting, 23, 24
installing, 30-31, 40
Stereos. See Stereo
systems.
Thermostats;
in-heater,
u
miswired, 26 Surge arresters; double-pole, 135 Utility knife, for stripping
number of, 24 hard-wired, 124 single-pole, 135 wire, 36
for ovens, 138 at main panel, 124 wiring, 134-135
in parallel, 40
quality of, 28, 29
point-of-use, 124, 125
Surges, voltage;
wall-mount,
double-pole, 132
v
Voltage drop:
residential-grade, 28-29 causes of, 124 mounting height of, 132
calculating, 80
in series, 38 protecting against, 122, single-pole, 132
defined, 80
single, 37, 38 124, 125 wiring, 132
Voltage:
spec-grade, 28-29 Switches: Tools:
calculating, 3
strings, 38 for bathroom fans, 98 choosing, 3-9
defined, 2
terminals on, 28-29 boxes for, 27, 30 hand,
generating, 2
tester for, 4 for ceiling fans, 91, 93 choosing, 5
troubleshooting, 48 choosing, 28, 29 storing, 5
ungrounded, 23 commercial-grade, 28-29 meters, 4 w
wiring, 24, 36-38, 40, 41, cutoff, for water heater, power, Water heaters:
damaged, 23 137 choosing, 6 cables for, 136
faulty, 23 damaged, 24 extension cords for, 6 cutoff switch for, 137
Recessed lights: dimmer, 46, 47, See also Saws. Drills. dedicated circuit for, 136
changing bulbs of, 56 cautions with, 48 Track lights: elements for, 137
choosing, 56 heat sinks for, 48 advantages of, 58 filling, 138
housings for, 56, 57 installing, 47 choosing, 59 grounding, 137
installing, 56 wiring, 47, 48 colors of, 59 parts of, 136
insulation around, 56, 58 for garbage disposal, 130 conductors for, 60 running cable for, 137
lighting with, 56 heavy-duty, 28-29 connectors for, 60, 61 sizes of, 136
troubleshooting, 66 inspecting, 23, 24 drawbacks of, 60 testing, 138
wiring, 56, 58 installing, 30-31 housings for, 59, 60 wiring, 137
Resistance; life-saving, 43 installing, 61 Water pipes, metal,
calculating, 3 miswired, 26 sections for, 60, 61 grounding, 21, 137
defined, 3 quality of, 28, 29 testing, 62 Water:
replacing, 24 track layout of, 60 and circuit breakers, 18,
residential-grade, 28-29 troubleshooting, 67 19
single-pole, 42, 43 use of, 58 and main panels, 19
Satellite systems: spec-grade, 28-29 wiring, 61, 62 in main panels, 17
cable runs for, 117 terminals on, 28-29 Troubleshooting: Whip, defined, 130
connections for, 117 three-way, appliances, 141 Wire;
digital, 113, 114 purpose of, 44 bathroom fans, 103 gauge, 25
advantages of, 114 replacing, 46 ceiling fans, 93 undersized, 25
cost of, 114 wiring, 44, 45 fluorescent lights, 67 Wires:
installing, 114 troubleshooting, 49, 81 incandescent lights, 65 splicing, 40
dishes for, 113, 114 wiring, 42-48 light fixtures, outdoor, stripping, 36
aligning, 117, 119 80-81 travelers, 44-45
mounting, 114 motion detectors, 81 Wiring, in-house:
Saws:
T post lights, 81 damaged, 25
circular, 6 Telephone jacks: of receptacles, 48 faulty, 24-25
reciprocating, 6 adding, 144 recessed lights, 66 inspecting, 23
blades for, 6 in parallel, 144 switches, 49, 81 routes of, 32
Service entrance: in series, 144 telephone systems, undersized, 24
aerial, 10 installing, 142 144-145
buried, 10, 12 types of, 142 track lights, 67
cable for, 10, 12 wiring, 142 TV systems, 119, 120
defined, 10 Telephone systems; TV jacks, installing, 110
inspecting, 10-19 cables for, 141, 142 TV systems:
meter base for, 12 installing jacks for, 142 antennas for, 110-112
Signal gain, defined, 112 troubleshooting, 144-145 cable for, 104-110
Speakers, wiring, 120, 122 wiring, 141, 142, 144 main-distribution amplifier
Splicing, with wire nut, 40 See also Network inter¬ in, 109
Splitters, defined, 109 face device (NID). Tele¬ satellite, 112-119
State Corporation Commis¬ phone jacks. splitters for, 109
sion, mentioned, '145 Televisions. See TV systems. troubleshooting, 119, 120
Stereo systems; Terminals, push-in, 28 See also Antennas.
channels in, 120 Cables. Satellite systems.
polarity in, 122 Twin lead, for TV systems,
ventilating, 120 105
wiring speakers for, 120

INDEX 151
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 1
A ■
 Safe Home Wiring Projects
621,319 Cau 44876

Cauldwell, Rex
Ford City Public Library

Imagine having a best friend who is a third-generation

master electrician with years of experience and
A Fine Honnebuilding Book
inexhaustible patience—a pal you can call whenever you
need clear, straightforward answers to electrical questions.
If you have such a friend, don't bother with this book; if
you don't, let us introduce you to Rex Cauldwell.
Cauldwell has filled this book with the answers to just
about every question you might ask in the course of doing
basic residential electrical work. With the help of clear
drawings and photographs, he gives you no-nonsense
advice about both choosing and wiring receptacles and
switches, indoor and outdoor lights, exhaust fans for the
bathroom, and ceiling fans for any other room.
It doesn't matter if you are working on a new house
that is still under construction or on an old house with
wiring from the turn of the century. Cauldwell tells
you—and shows you—what you want to know. He also
provides information about wiring kitchen and utility-room
appliances, a state-of-the-art home-entertainment system
(including a cable or satellite TV system and stereo), and
even your home phone system.
And throughout all of this advice and instruction runs a
constant and reassuring emphasis on safety—for you as
you do the work, and for everyone who will be enjoying
the fruits of your labor.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Rex Cauldwell is a master electrician and master plumber living

Incoming Outgoing Incoming Outgoing

in rural Virginia. He is the author of Wiring a House, also
power s power n power . power published by The Taunton Press.

ISBN 1-56158-164-X
90000 >

2016-02-0114:28

Taunton
BOOKS & VIDEOS

for fellow enthidsiasts $19.95 u.s. Taunton Product # 070295