* With NEW Elastic Stretch oe 2 ee fee) aa a Sir (oe) = Ps 1) Instructions . © = = ol i = t fo.) | S i 3 a o | 2) ey Ss a Bo ae .Dear Customer: We recommend that for future reference you record the serial number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided. Refer to illustration below for location of serial number on your machine. Serial No. “A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Copyright © 1977 The Singer Company All Rights Reserved Throughout The WorldContents 1. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine .. 2 Principal Parts — What They Are Called . 3 Accessories . 6 2. Getting Ready to Sew ... 18 Preliminary Steps ... 18, Threading the Machine . 22 Setting Selectors ..... 34 3. Straight Stitching .. 40 Sewing a Seam .... : 40 Pin Basting + Starting a Seam + Guiding and Supporting Fabric * Ending a Seam + Curved Seams 4, Zig-Zag Stitching 48 How Patterns Are Produced . 48 Adjusting Width of Design + Adjusting Stitch Placement + Adjusting Stitch Length and Needle-Thread Tension Satin Stitching ............00ee cece eeeeee 54 5. Twin-Needle Stitching .............0...0085 56 Inserting the Twin Needle 56 Threading the Needle ... 58 Machine Settings ... 58 6. Free-Motion Stitching . 60 Preparation ...... 60 Script Lettering .. 62 Floral Designs . 64 7. Sewing the Professional Way 66 Construction Details .. 66 Seams + Darts * Hems + Zippers Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics 86 Buttons ........ we 96 Buttonholes . 98 Decorative Touches . . 116 Top Stitching * Shell Edging * Monograms and Motifs * Applique Keeping Up Appearances . 124 Mending + Blanket Binding * Darning 8. Caring for Your Sewing Machine . . 132 Cleaning and Lubricating . 132 Home Service Hints .. 141 Index . . 1471. Getting to Know Your SINGER’ Sewing Machine “A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY 2principal parts — what they are called 1. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pres- sure on fabric. 2. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread. 3. Bobbin-Winder Tension Discs supply just the right amount of thread tension for uni- formly wound bobbins. 4, Disc Holder holds any one of the inter- changeable stitch pattern discs. 5. Stitch Chart shows the stitches which the pattern discs produce. 6. Bobbin Winder Lever and Spindle let you fill the bobbin with thread quickly and easily. 7. Hand Wheel manually positions needle. Al- ways turn it toward you. 8. Needle-Thread Tension Dial lets you select the right tension for your stitch, thread, and fabric. 9. Electric Motor drives the machine through a belt to the hand wheel. The speed con- troller regulates speed of motor. 10. Presser Foot Lifter raises and lowers the presser foot. 11. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience. 12. Needle Clamp holds single and twin nee- dies. It is designed to eliminate the possi- bility of inserting needle backwards. 13, Presser Foot holds fabric against feed. (See item 21.) 14, Throat Plate provides working surface around the feed. 15. Slide Plate opens for easy removal and re- placement of bobbin.16. Stitch Width Selector controls the width of zig-zag stitching and sets the machine for straight stitching. 17. Needle Position Selector places the needle in either Je (left), ale (center), or als (right) stitching position. 18. Spool Holder with horizontal pin holds spools of various sizes and lets thread un- wind smoothly without the spool turning. 19. Stitch Length Selector and Built-In Four- Step Buttonhole Dial has two separate func- tions. The numbered settings on the stitch length side of the dial allow for a variety of stitch lengths. The four settings for the but- tonhole sequence are on the opposite side of the dial. 20. Reverse-Stitch Push Button and Stitch Bal- ancing Control allows you to stitch back- wards, and to balance stitching in four-step buttonholes. Pushing the button reverses stitching direction; rotating the button bal- ances side stitching of buttonhole. 21. Feed moves fabric as it is being stitched. 22. Transparent Bobbin shows thread supply; is easily removed for winding. 23. Electrical Connections and Speed Con- troller are designed for safety and conve- nience. To run the machine, press speed controller. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew.accessories The accessories that come with your sewing machine will help you to sew with ease and comfort. Some of them may not be supplied with your sewing machine, but they are available for over the counter sales at SINGER stores. BOBBINS One transparent bobbin in your machine. ¢ Extra bobbins. NEEDLES IMPORTANT: Your SINGER* sewing ma- chine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER* needles. You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric. Catalog 2020, Size 14, in place in your machine Catalog 2020 needles, for all-purpose sew- ing © Catalog 2028 needles, for twin-needle work Catalog 2045 yellow band needles, for sew- ing synthetic knit and stretch fabrics Changing the Needle 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. 2. Loosen the needle-clamp screw and remove needle. 3. Insert new needle in clamp, with the flat side of the needle to the back; push it up as far as it will go. 4. Tighten the needle-clamp screw.Needles Needle Bar Needle Clamp Flat Side to Back Needie-Clamp Screw Changing the NeedlePRESSER FEET e Interchangeable snap-on presser feet: General purpose foot on your machine Straight stitch foot Buttonhole foot Zipper foot Special purpose foot # One-piece button foot General Purpose Foot The general purpose foot can be used for both straight and zig-zag stitching. Straight Stitch Foot This foot, used for straight stitching only, should be used when your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control. Buttonhole Foot This transparent presser foot has guidelines to simplify buttonhole placement and make it easy to gauge buttonhole length. Instructions for making buttonholes begin on page 98. Zipper Foot The zipper foot makes it easy to place stitching close to a raised edge. Thus, it is useful for corded seams (page 70) as well as zipper inser- tion (page 82). Button Foot This short, open foot holds any two-hole or four- hole button securely for stitching. For instruc- tions on button sewing, see page 96. Special Purpose Foot Use this foot for zig-zag satin stitching (see page 54) and for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching.General Purpose Foot Buttonhole Foot a Zipper Foot Button Foot ‘Special Purpose FootChanging Snap-on Presser Feet These presser feet snap on and off a common shank. To remove presser foot from shank, raise presser foot and press toe up as far as it will go until it snaps free. To attach new presser foot to shank, center foot under shank and lower presser foot lifter so that the shank opening fits over the hinge pin. Press down on presser foot screw until shank snaps onto foot. To remove and replace shank of snap-on presser feet, follow instructions below for one- piece presser feet. Changing One-piece Presser Feet * Raise needle to highest position. © Raise presser foot lifter. © Loosen presser foot screw (you do not need to remove the screw) and remove the foot. * Hook new foot around the presser bar and tighten presser foot screw.Presser Foot Screw = Shank ie Hinge Pin Changing One-piece Feet WTHROAT PLATES The general purpose throat plate can be used with all presser feet, The straight stitch throat plate is for use with the straight stitch presser foot. The feed cover throat plate is used for button sewing, free-motion work, and darning. Removing and Replacing Throat Plate Raise presser foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until the needle is in its highest position. Open the slide plate. Lift throat plate up and to the right until it snaps free. Insert new throat plate by placing it under the clamping pin, push it gently to the left and press down until it snaps into place. * Close slide plate. S ij General Purpose Throat Plate 13456 {| 5 [f °|} PLE ‘Straight Stitch Feed Cover Throat Plate Throat Plate 12PATTERN DISCS * One removable pattern disc in place on holder in your machine (plain zig-zag stitch). * Additional interchangeable pattern discs. Each pattern disc is numbered and its design is reproduced on its surface for quick recognition. Illustrations for the patterns produced are shown on page 49. Changing Pattern Discs Move stitch width selectorto ---- (straight-stitch position). Raise pattern disc lid. Pull pattern disc releaser up and remove the disc. Replace with another disc, making certain that the numbered side of the disc is face up and that the notch in the center of the disc fits over the positioning key on the disc holder. Push disc down firmly. 14Changing Pattern Discs i: { £22 [ye To Remove and Replace Disc Pattern Disc Lid Positioning Key Disc HolderSPOOL PIN FOR TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING This spool pin permits you to stitch two parallel rows of stitching simultaneously (see page 56 for detailed instructions). THREAD LEAD-OFF This lead-off holds narrow-diameter spools of thread on the spool pin. (See page 30.) BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE The blindstitch hem guide, used with the gen- eral purpose foot, positions the hem fold in front cf the needle for blindstitch hemming. To attach guide, loosen presser foot screw and slip guide between screw and presser foot shank. CONTAINER OF OIL Container of SINGER* oil Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you will take a few moments to keep it in good operating condition. See page 132.Spool Pin Thread Lead-Off Blindstitch Hem Guide Container of Oil2. Getting Ready to Sew preliminary steps OPERATING THE MACHINE With Electric Motor and Controller Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and frequency indicated on the mo- tor are within the range marked on the electric meter installed by your power company. Then connect the power-line plug to your electrical outlet. To start the machine, press the pedal of the speed controller. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew. To turn sewing light ON and OFF, simply de- press the switch located on top of sewing light. CAUTION: Remove the power-line plug from the electrical outlet before changing needles, presser feet, or throat plates, and when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by acciden- tally pressing the speed controller. 18Motor, Light, and Speed Controller Sewing Light Speed ControllerWith Foot Treadle Become acquainted with your treadle. First, hold hand wheel from turning, then loosen the hand wheel knob as shown. Place both feet on treadle. Turn hand wheel over toward you and allow your feet to move freely and lightly, following the motion of the treadle. Practice this motion until you are able, with your feet alone, to re-start the machine with the hand wheel turning toward you and maintain a steady speed. When you have become accustomed to the treadle motion, tighten the hand wheel knob by turning it away from you. Place a piece of material under the presser foot and lower the presser foot lifter. Now operate the machine (without thread) until you become accustomed to guiding the material. 20Hand Wheel Hand Wheel Knob Treadle Guiding the Material atthreading the machine CHOOSING NEEDLE AND THREAD The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric to be stitched. The needle should be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without being bent or deflected. The eye of the needle must be large enough for the thread to pass through it freely: too fine a needle will cause the thread to fray. The table on the following page is a guide to needle and thread selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin. This guide also applies to zig-zag stitching. IMPORTANT: Your SINGER* sewing machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER* needles. You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of jabric. 221 oO ve i (Lxs) ozoz Borie (xsi) 0z0z Boyee9 (4xgh) 0z0z Boje2o (xg) 0z0z Boyeieo peasy onetukg WOHOD OF 01 4z uoyoo pezusorew ‘Ainp-hneoH} peasy oeyIUAS Yo}}09 09 0} OF uonoo pezeosoul ‘Aynp-KneoH} peasy onauuhS HIS Won woHoo 09 uoyoo pezusoiew og pee onauuks HUIS War ojos peziieoiew Og peau) oneyyuAs ouly uoyoo pezieasew aul seaueo ‘soliqe) A1a\sjoudn ‘ee1eBunp ‘sBuyB001000 — Aneoy souges Auedesp ‘s6uneoo ‘wluap ‘yjooyes ‘peam) ‘oulpseqe6 — kneoy wipe s}U4 ‘o1ge} Yoyeays ‘sBunins ‘jenjen ‘ounpsoo yes ‘ailiey ‘Zjulyo ‘uouy ‘onbid ‘efeosed ‘weybul6 — 161m wNIPEW wijy onseid yen ~18N uoytyo ‘ede1o “eyyey ‘9I10A ‘Kassaf ‘ApuBbio ‘eysHeq — ubiemybr 23WINDING THE BOBBIN It is best that you wind the bobbin before you thread the needle. Preparation © Raise pattern disc lid. © Turn hand wheel toward you until needle is at its highest position. * Loosen the hand wheel knob with your right hand while holding the hand wheel with your left hand. * Open the slide plate and lift out bobbin. Procedure 14. Place spool of thread on spool pin, as de- scribed on page 30, and lead thread around the bobbin-winder tension disc and through small hole in bobbin (from inside out). 24Winding the Bobbin 252. Place bobbin on spindle and slide bobbin winder lever toward the right. Hold thread end and start the machine. Thread end will ‘snap off after a few coils have been wound. When required amount of thread has been wound (winding will stop when bobbin is full), cut thread and remove bobbin from spindle. Slide bobbin winder lever toward the left. Tighten hand wheel knob by turning it away from you with your right hand while holding hand wheel with your left hand. » > 26Winding the BobbinTHREADING BOBBIN CASE 1. Hold bobbin so that the thread unwinds in di- rection shown, and insert bobbin in bobbin case. 2. Pull thread into notch A in bobbin case, draw it toward left and into slot B. 3. Draw approximately eight centimeters (3”) of thread diagonally across the bobbin. 4. Close slide plate, allowing the thread to ex- tend through the slot between the slide plate and the throat plate. 28ding Bobbin Case 29THREADING THE NEEDLE . Slip spool of thread onto spool holder. If spool has a retaining slot, place it against the spool cushion to the right. If spool has excessive length or diameter, use vertical spool pin. Press appropriate thread lead-off holder firm- ly against spool. For large spools of thread, use the large holder with the wide end against the spool. For medium-size spools of thread, use the large holder with the narrow end against the spool. For very small diameter spools, use the small lead-off. n © . Raise presser foot and be sure needle is in its highest position. 4. Lead the thread through all threading points as illustrated. Thread the needle from front to back, draw- ing about ten centimeters (4”) of thread through the eye of the needle. a For Medium Spools A eet For Very Small Spools 30Threading Points ‘a—— Eye of Needle 31RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, you will need to raise the bobbin thread through the hole in the throat plate. . Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters throat plate. . Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop. Undo the loop with your fingers. Place both needie and bobbin threads under the presser foot and lay them diagonally to the right. np ee 32Raising Bobbin Thread Step 1 ““Ga 33,setting selectors SETTING STITCH WIDTH The stitch width selector does two jobs: it sets the machine for straight stitching, and it con- trols the width of zig-zag stitching. Four stitch width settings are indicated plus a setting for straight stitching. Before moving the selector, make sure needle is above the fabric. To set stitch width, slide the selector lever until indicator line is aligned with desired setting. Straight Stitching: Set the selector at ---- (position 0). Zig-Zag Stitching: Set the selector at any zig- zag position between mm _ (narrow-position 4)and NM (wide-position 4). For your convenience, the position numbers 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 will be used throughout this book where the instructions require stitch width settings. SETTING NEEDLE POSITION The needle position selector places the needle in left ( 4, ), center( de), or right ( a ) stitch- ing position. You will need to set it before you start the machine. Before moving the selector, make sure the needle is out of the fabric. To position the needle, slide the lever to left or right until indicator line is under desired setting. Straight Stitching: Normally you will use the center ( ef, ) needle position. But if you wish to place the stitching at left or right of center, slide the lever to desired position. Zig-Zag Stitching: You will use center ( a) position most often. Left ( .) and right ( ol, ) positions are for special stitch placement. For example: A da setting is used for button sew- ing. Settings J, and ol are used to place narrow zig-zag stitching to the left and right of center in decorative work. 34lage ‘Stitch Width Selector Settings 4 iid ae — pr Needle Position SettingsREGULATING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION The needle-thread tension dial regulates the amount of tension on the needle thread and lets you select just the right setting for your fabric and thread. The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings. Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or mar the appearance of decorative work. To determine the correct tension, make a test on a sample of your fabric. If the stitches look loose, increase tension. If the fabric puckers, decrease tension. (For instructions on adjusting zig-zag stitch ten- sion, see page 52.) © To increase tension, turn to higher number. © To decrease tension, turn to lower number. 36Needile-Thread Tension Increase Correct 37SETTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length selector dial controls the length of both straight and zig-zag stitching. The numerals from 1 to 4 represent the length of each stitch in millimeters: the higher the number, the longer the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric, longer ones for heavier fabric. The area between 0 and 1 represents less than 1 mm. long, and is used for closed zig-zag or satin stitching. * To shorten stitch length, turn dial clockwise toa lower number. * To lengthen stitch length, turn dial counter- clockwise to a higher number. For reverse stitching, push in on push button located in center of dial, hold in until reverse stitching is completed, then release push but- ton. Push button can be pushed in while ma- chine is sewing. REGULATING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct pressure is important to make the fabric feed smoothly and evenly without being marred. * To increase pressure, turn dial to a higher number. Heavy or crisp fabrics require heav- jer pressure. © To decrease pressure, turn dial to a lower number. Lightweight or soft fabrics, or those with a pile (like velvet) require lighter pres- sure. © For darning, turn dial to 0. 38Reverse-Stitch Push Button \ To Increase Pressure To Decrease Pressure 393. Straight Stitching Before making any setting adjustments, make sure the needle is above the fabric. © Stitch Width : 0 * Needle Position: ale * Stitch Length: To suit fabric * Presser Foot: General Purpose or Straight Stitch When your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control, you may wish to use the straight stitch presser foot and the straight stitch throat plate that comes with your accessories. Among the advantages of using the straight stitch foot and throat plate when straight stitch- ing is that the narrow slot in the foot and the small needle hole in the throat plate reduce the possibility of puckering when sewing soft or spongy fabric. Also, the narrow width of the foot permits it to be used as a gauge when stitching close to the fabric edge (right outside edge of foot is 3 mm (¥% inch) from needle). sewing a seam PIN BASTING Pin basting is a time saver and can be used in place of hand basting when you are sewing seams in easy-to-handle fabrics. When sewing over pins it is important to use fine pins and to place them correctly in relation to the stitching line. Place pins so that: © They are at right angles to the stitching line. ® They just nip into the fabric at the stitching line. Pins should not extend under sides of the press- er foot, and should never be placed on the underside of the fabric in contact with the feed. 40ita Lk — Stitch Width Needle Position ‘Straight Stitch Foot Pin Basting 4STARTING A SEAM 1. Set stitch length selector for desired length of stitch. 2. Align edge of fabric along one of the num- bered guidelines on the throat plate. The numbers represent eighths of an inch. If you want a 5/e-inch seam (15 mm.) for example, line up your fabric with line 5. 3. Position needle in fabric about twelve milli- meters ('/2”) from the edge. 4. Lower the presser foot. Depress and hold reverse-stitch push button, and run the ma- chine at a slow speed. 5. While holding reverse-stitch push button, backstitch to edge of fabric for reinforcement. 6. Release push button and stitch forward to end of fabric, using the selected guideline to keep seam straight. Starting a Seam 42Starting a Seam (continued) 43Guiding and Supporting Fabric Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Some fabrics, such as filmy sheers, knits, etc., require support in front and back of the presser foot while being stitched. Supporting Fabric ENDING A SEAM . Leave presser foot in down position. Depress and hold reverse-stitch push button and run the machine at slow speed . 2. While holding reverse-stitch push button, backstitch about 12 millimeters ('/2”) in from edge of fabric to reinforce end of seam. Then release push button. 3. With the take-up lever at its highest point, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing it back and to the left. 4. Cut thread ends on thread cutter at rear of presser bar. 44Ending a SeamCURVED SEAMS Follow the same steps as for straight seams except use a shorter stitch length for greater elasticity and strength. Inside Curves 46Outside Curves 474, Zig-Zag Stitching how patterns are produced All patterns are produced from the inter- changeable pattern discs. Some stitch patterns are used for practical purposes, such as buttonholes and button sewing, seaming, blindstitch hemming, and mend- ing. Others are purely decorative and will give an individual touch to your clothes and home. The pattern discs that come with your machine produce the stitches illustrated on the following page. The numbers indicate pattern disc num- bers. For instructions on changing pattern discs, see page 14. 4827 37 350 351 352 353 354 355 Zig-Zag Stitch Patterns Plain Zig-Zag Multiple Zig-Zag Arrowhead wlll walla Domino al Walls of Troy “ae Solid Diamond Fagoting Alpine (Elastic Stretch) vey Blindstitch em tN Crescent Wil lhl ll Solid Scallop Ih Solid Pyramid sal ll Key en Banner 49ADJUSTING WIDTH OF THE DESIGN Before moving stitch width selector, make sure needle is above fabric. To produce a zig-zag stitch, the stitch width selector must be moved from 0 to any of the four other positions. The further you move the selector lever toward the right, the wider your stitch will be. ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT Before moving needle position selector, make sure needle is above fabric. Aneeédle position selector setting of .!, places the needle in center stitching position. Selector settings J. and place the needle in left and right stitching position at stitch width set- tings less than AW (wide, position 4). Selector setting le (center) is used most often. Settings J (left) and eb (right) are for special placement of stitching. For example, a (left) setting is used for button sewing. A da (left) or ah right) setting is used to place narrow zig-zag stitching to the left or right of center in decorative work. 50Adjusting Width of Design Adjusting Stitch PlacementADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH AND NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION When you are preparing to do zig-zag stitching, make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust the stitch length and needle-thread tension correctly. Stitch Length Any stitch length setting from 1 to 4 will give you an open zig-zag stitch of whichever pattern you select. The higher the number, the more open, or farther apart, your stitch will be. The area between 1 and 0 of the selector is used for the fine adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching. For information on satin stitch length adjust- ment, turn to page 54. Needie-Thread Tension Zig-zag stitching requires iess tension than straight stitching. Notice the stitching on your test sample. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric without causing the fabric to pucker. If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puck- ering, lower the tension by turning the dial to a lower number. 52Too Tight Needle-Thread Tension 53satin stitching Satin stitching is a series of closely spaced zig- zag stitches that form a smooth satin-like sur- face. It is useful for both utility and decorative work. Always make a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabrics may require a backing to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp organdy and lawn are suitable for this purpose. * Pattern Disc: Any zig-zag stitch * Stitch Width: 1to4 * Needle Position: J, (center) © Stitch Length: Between 0 and 1 * Presser Foot: Special Purpose ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH 1. Turn selector dial to 1 and run the machine ata slow speed. 2.While running machine, gradually turn dial toward 0 until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth satin stitch. ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION Satin stitching requires less tension than straight stitching or open zig-zag stitching. Fur- thermore, the wider the stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread must be. Notice the stitching on your sample. If the stitch- ing appears to be too tight, or the fabric is puckering, lower the thread tension by turning the dial to'a lower number .As Dial Is Turned, Stitches Close Up Incorrect Correct Tension Adjustment for Satin Stitching 555. Twin-Needle Stitching By using a twin needle, you can produce two parallel, closely spaced decorative lines of stitching simultaneously. You can use either one or two colors of thread, and you can choose either a straight-stitch setting or any of the pattern discs. When preparing to do twin-needle stitching, it is recommended that you wind an extra bobbin with the thread you plan to use, for replacement in case the bobbin should run out of thread. (Note: When raising bobbin thread, hold both needle threads.) inserting the twin needle Before inserting the twin needle, place the needle position selector at Ja (left) and stitch width selector at ---- (0). . Raise needle to its highest position. 2. Loosen needle-clamp screw and remove single needle. Insert twin needle into clamp with the flat side of shank to the back. Push needle up as far as it will go and tighten needle-clamp screw. 2 = 56Twin-Needle Patterns Multiple Zig-Zag Ee ela Arrowhead 6 Domino 12 Walls of Troy 13 Solid Diamond at RAAAAA AAAI Fagoting 352 aici tet Solid Scallop 353 Solid Pyramid 35 Ee Banner Inserting Twin Needle 57threading the needle For best results, use No. 50 mercerized cotton thread. Thread the machine in the same manner as for single-needle stitching except: 1. Insert twin-needle spool pin under pattern disc lid. 2. Be sure that threads are separated by center tension disc as they pass around tension assembly. 3. Pass only one thread through the last thread guide before the needle. machine settings STRAIGHT STITCHING * Stitch Width: (0) Straight stitch * Needle Position: Le (left) only © Presser Foot: General Purpose ZIG-ZAG STITCHING * Pattern Disc: Any zig-zag stitch © Stitch Width: 1 to 2 only * Needle Position: ly (left) only * Presser Foot: General Purpose (open patterns) or Special Purpose (satin stitching, for plain zig-zag only) 1 2: d 58Threading the Needle6. Free-Motion Stitching In free-motion stitching, you sew without a presser foot and control fabric movement (and stitch length) yourself, by means of an em- broidery hoop. Either a straight or zig-zag stitch setting can be used. Because you can move the hoop in any direction—forward or back- ward, from side to side, and even diagonally — free-motion stitching is extremely useful for in- tricate embroidery designs. It is equally useful for darning. When embroidering, you can vary the length of stitches by moving the hoop faster or slower. The faster you move it, the more open the stitches will be. A slow hoop movement will produce closely packed stitches. You can also vary the width of the stitches, from a hairline to the full width of whichever stitch width setting you have chosen, by the way you move the hoop. If you move it sideways and stitch ina horizontal line, you will get a hairline; if you move it forward and backward and stitch in a vertical line, you will get full stitch width. Thus, you can produce a ribbon-like effect in script lettering or create delicate flower designs. See following pages for specific directions. When darning, the embroidery hoop enables you to hold the fabric taut, a real advantage when your fabric is lightweight and is likely to pucker. See page 130 for directions. preparation 1, Have available an embroidery hoop large enough to encompass the entire design. 2. Remove the presser foot. 3. Remove regular throat plate and insert feed cover throat plate. 4. Rotate stitch length selector dial clockwise to area below 1 (as for satin stitching). 60Embroidery Hoop —_——> g Feed Cover Throat Plate Stitch Length Selector 61script lettering = PatiemDisc:No1 = SSSsStS*S~S~S~S * Stitch Width: 1 to 4 * Needle Position: ole itch Length: Between 0 and 1 Presser Foot: None Feed Cover Throat Plate If you wish to embroider a whole name on a dress or shirt, you can do so by free-motion stitching. 1. Always make a sample first to find the right stitch width. 2. Trace or mark lettering on right side of fabric. . If the fabric is soft or loosely woven, add an underlay of crisp lawn or organdy. Place work in embroidery hoop large enough to encompass the entire design. Be sure fabric is held taut. 2 » s Position work under needle and lower presser bar to engage tension. 6. Hold needle thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you to bring bobbin thread up through fabric at start of design. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric. Stitch, following outline of lettering. Maintain an even rate of speed for uniformly spaced stitches. 8. To produce a close satin stitch, move hoop slowly; to produce an open stitch, move hoop more rapidly. 9. To shade the lettering from wide to narrow stitching, turn the work slightly so that you will be moving it at an angle as you stitch. n_ 6263floral designs * Pattern Disc: No. 1 * Stitch Width: 1 to 4 * Needle Position: ole * Stitch Length: Between 0 and 1 Presser Foot: None Feed Cover Throat Plate With a little practice on your sewing machine, you will be able to embroider flowers to deco- rate table linens and other household items, as well as dresses and blouses. If you have de- signing skill, you will enjoy creating your own designs. Otherwise, you can buy attractive transfer patterns. To embroider flower designs, prepare the ma- chine and your fabric by following the same steps as for script lettering (page 62). On your test sample, try out different stitch width set- tings to determine the one or more best suited to your design. When filling in outlines, place stitches in par- allel lines, shifting the hoop movement as ap- propriate to the design. * For a smooth satin stitch that will catch the light, place the parallel stitches close to- gether, moving the hoop slowly and steadily. © For an irregular texture, move the hoop more rapidly, allowing some stitches to overlap. A series of bar tacks can be used to form spray- like leaves or flowers. 64“~ Flower Design Flower, Leaf, and Bud Design 657. Sewing the Professional Way construction details SEAMS Lingerie Seams * Pattern Disc: No.1 © Stitch Width: 2 * Needle Position: ol, * Stitch Length: 1 - 1.5, depending on fabric © Presser Foot: General Purpose To make a lingerie seam both durable and flex- ible, use a zig-zag stitch. This treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams. 1. Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch width selector at 0) on the wrong side. 2. Press both seam allowances in the same direction. 3. From the right side, top-stitch with zig-zag pattern, letting the needle alternately enter the seam line and seam thickness. Lingerie Seam 66Seams in Knit Fabrics * Pattern Disc: No. 1 or 37 * Stitch Width: 1 or 2 * Needie Position: ol, * Stitch Length: 1-1.5 * Presser Foot: General Purpose A narrow, closely spaced zig-zag stitch is ideal for seaming knit fabric. It is particularly de- sirable for underarm seams where elasticity and give are needed. Where a stay is needed to prevent stretching, at neckline and shoulder seams for example, this same stitch can be used to apply seam tape. Fora flat, smooth finish: 1. If seam is curved, pre-shape tape to fit by steam pressing. 2. Baste tape in place. 3. Stitch, allowing needle to enter seam tape and seam allowance alternately. Curved Seam with Tape Stay 67Inside Seams of Sheer Collars, Facings, and Cuffs © Pattern Disc: No. 1 © Stitch Width: 1 or 2 * Needle Position: ly ° Stitch Length: Between 0 and 4 Presser Foot: Special Purpose With a delicate hairline finish, seam allowances that ordinarily show through can be eliminated. 1. Stitch along seam line. 2. Cut seam allowance away close to the line of stitching. 3. Turn to the right side, gently roll out curved edges with thumb and forefinger, and press flat.Inside Seam of Sheer Collar 69Corded Seams The corded seam is a professional treatment for slipcovers, children’s clothes, blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the welting first (or buy it ready-made), then stitch it into the seam. For both steps, use the follow- ing settings and accessories: * Stitch Width: 0 * Needle Position: ale * Stitch Length: Slightly longer than for regular seaming © Presser Foot: Zipper Foot Making the welting 1. Buy cable cord (at a notions counter) of de- sired size. 2. Cut bias strips of fabric (width: three times the diameter of the cord plus 30 millimeters (1%"). 3. Sew strips together on the lengthwise grain to obtain desired length. 4. Fold resulting strip over cord with raw edges even. 5. Attach zipper foot to the left side of the nee- dle. (For instructions on attaching zipper foot, see page 82.) 6. Lower the presser foot. 7. Stitch close to the cord (but do not crowd stitching against cord), pulling gently on the strip, both in front and in back of the zipper foot.Making the Welting Stitch Close to Cord 7Stitching welting into seam . Attach zipper foot to the right of the needle so that the bulk of the fabric will fall to the left. Stitch welting to the right side of a single seam edge; guide the edge of the foot next to the cord but do not crowd. . Place the attached welting over the second seam edge, and pin or baste together. . Place the work under the needle, with the first stitching on top so that you can use it as a guide. 5. Stitch, this time crowding the foot against the cord. Ld 2 x 72Stitching Welting into Seam Stitch to Right Side of Seam Edge Crowd Foot Against Cord 73Flat-Felled Seams * Pattern Disc: No. 1 © Stitch Width: 2 * Needle Position: ly * Stitch Length: 1 - 1.5, depending on fabric © Presser Foot: General Purpose Zig-zag stitching gives strength and durability to flat-felled seams. 1. Stitch the seam on the right side of the fabric, taking full seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to one side, keep- ing the right side of the stitch on top. . Trim the under seam allowance to one-half its width. Turn the upper seam allowance edge evenly over the trimmed edge, and top stitch. Ny 9 > 74Flat-Felled Seam 75Seam Finishes * Pattern Disc: No. 1, 2, 37 or 350 to suit fabric. * Stitch Width: 3 or 4 * Needle Position: gl, Stitch Length: 1 - 3, depending on choice of stitch and fabric. * Presser Foot: General Purpose Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. Adjust stitch width and stitch length set- tings to give you the most “open” stitch that will secure the fabric edge; avoid harsh, over- stitched edges. There are two ways of finishing seam edges: trimming seam edge of overedg- ing. Trimming seam edge « Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance. e Trim edges evenly after stitching is com- pleted. Overedging, « Trim raw seam edges evenly before stitching. Place stitching over the fabric edge. 76Trimming Seam Edges Overedged Seam Finish 77DARTS Darts add fit, contour, and styling to a garment. Regular Darts * Stitch Width: 0 * Needle Position: ale * Stitch Length: About 2, or to suit fabric * Presser Foot: General Purpose 1. Stitch from the seam edge, tapering gradually to the point. 2. Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread chain 1 to 2 centimeters (1/2” — 3/4”) long. 3. Tie thread ends into a single knot close to the stitching. Darts in Interfacing * Pattern Disc: No. 1 * Stitch Width: 4 * Needle Position: * Stitch Length: About 1, or to suit fabric. © Presser Foot: General Purpose With zig-zag stitching, interfacing can be shaped without bulk. 1. Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching line. 2. Bring raw edges together and pin over a mus- lin stay. 3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends. 78Steps in Making Dart in Interfacing 79BLINDSTITCH HEMS Blindstitching provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible. It is best suited to straight hems. Taped, bound, turned, or unfinished hem edges can be blindstitched with equal ease. Blindstitching takes a little practice, however, so make a test sample first. Settings: Pattern Disc: No. 350 Stitch Width: To Suit Fabric Needle Position: ay Stitch Length: 1 - 2.5 Presser Foot: General Purpose Blindstitch Hem Guide . Mark, turn, and press hem in the usual way. Baste a guideline at least 12 millimeters (1/2”) from the top edge of the hem so that the basting will not be caught by the flange of the blindstitch hem guide. Attach the blindstitch hem guide to the press- er bar (see page 16). With the work wrong side up and the bulk of the fabric to the left, turn the hem under, creating a soft fold about 6 millimeters (*/4") from top edge of the hem. Position the hem under the presser foot with the flange on the front of the guide resting on the 6 millimeter (‘/4”) hem edge and the soft fold against the wall of the flange. Stitch so that straight stitches fall on the hem edge and the sideward stitches pierce the soft fold. While stitching, feed the soft fold against the wall of the flange and guide the hem edge in a straight line. id 2 > a 2 80Blindstitch Hem 81ZIPPERS At your notions counter you will find many kinds of zippers with detailed sewing instructions in the package. If you use the zipper foot, you will find it easy to form an even line of stitching close to the zipper. Straight Stitch Zipper Insertion * Stitch Width: 0 * Needle Positioi * Stitch Length: 1.5-2.5 * Presser Foot: Zipper Foot Attaching the Zipper Foot When the zipper is to the right of the needle: * Move spacer on zipper foot to /eft, to allow shank to enter right side of foot, so that nee- dle will enter right notch in foot. When the zipper is to the /eft of the needle: Move spacer on zipper foot to right, to allow shank to enter /eft side of foot, so that needle will enter /eft notch in foot. The zipper foot is snapped onto the shank as instructed on page 10.Zipper Foot to Right of Needle Spacer Zipper Foot to Left of Needle Attaching the Zipper Foot Zipper Insertion 83Blindstitch Zipper Insertion * Pattern Disc: No. 350 * Stitch Width: 4 or 2 * Needle Position: * Stitch Length: * Presser Foot: Zipper Foot On chiffons, velvets, and sheer fabrics, blind- stitching the final step of a zipper insertion gives you a finish that is almost invisible. 1. Allow a 22 millimeter (7/e”) seam allowance. 2. Start the insertion in the regular way, but omit the final step. . Work from the right side of the garment and pin the zipper tape into position. Pin through all layers, smoothing the fabric as you pin. . Baste a line about 10 millimeters (3/s”) from seam line to provide a guide for blindstitch- ing. Remove pins. . Attach zipper foot to proper side as de- scribed in “Straight Stitch Zipper Insertion,” on page 82. 6. Turn garment inside out and place zipper tape over feed. . Turn back the front section of the garment to the line of basting, creating a soft fold. . Adjust stitch width selector and position work so that the straight stitches go through the seam allowance and zipper tape, and the sideward stitches pierce a few threads of the soft fold. . Lower the zipper foot and stitch slowly. 10. Remove basting and press. 2 - a N 2 °Final Step of Blindstitch Zipper Insertion Completed Blindstitch Zipper Insertion 85sewing knit and stretch fabric When you sew stretch fabrics, doubleknit, tricot and jersey, choose one of the stretch patterns that sews stretch into the seam. The table on the following page will help you to select the right stitch pattern for your fabric and sewing job. Remember to use a SINGER ball-point needle, Catalog 2045, in your machine when you sew synthetic knit or stretch fabric. 86‘swiees Jappe]— ele6ull ul sway |}9US OS¢e ‘ON 951 y WEES JS2OI9AC — Bulwey You |spUIlg a1q!x9{4 youspulg - a ONSEI@ Pue ade] YO}aNS BuIYOeY — UO!JONJSUOD JeAM WMS on ot ower ue Jeon Soule wees pur PUESIESY gag hE NSH) MMM ‘pueqysiem — Yyoja.js yey) Sweas aBpaieno pue ulelg Y9I841S Onsela) oul ‘Soysiuy pueqisiem pue sBuiseg — saysiuy weeg é Ssub2e sip — vorionnsuoo insuims pub ey EON OA AA, @1Je6ul] — a0] yojexjs pue onseje Buyoeny IZ uWS-HINW OY’ YY’ VN onseje 6ulyoeny — Bulysiuy e6p3— Buysiuy wees LON 9810 WANA AAA — sweas ae6ul] — Sumas yojal}s asodind jesaue5 yours Bez-617 uleiq yping yo}eNS ses ausGUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Some fabrics, however, require support while being stitched. * For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet, and sim- ilar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension by holding fabric taut in front and back of the presser foot as you sew. For elasticized fabric, stretch lace, and knits with an unusual amount of elasticity, apply firm tension in front and back of the presser foot to stretch the seam as the stitches are being placed. The Elastic Stretch pattern (disc 37) with a nar- row stitch width is ideal for sewing stretch seams. 88Applying Firm Tension 89OVEREDGED SEAMS Seams in knit and stretch fabric can be joined and finished in one operation. Two different methods may be used. Method #1 is recom- mended for firm fabrics where a 6 millimeter (1/4”) seam allowance is adequate. Method #2 is recommended for bulky knits and fabrics that have a tendency to curl or fray and where a wider seam allowance is needed. Make a test sample to help you decide which method is best for your fabric and garment. Remember to use a Catalog 2045 ball-point needle if you are sew- ing a synthetic knit. * Pattern Disc: No. 350 * Stitch Width: 4 * Needle Position: ole * Stitch Length: 1 to 3, depending on fabric * Presser Foot: General Purpose Method #1 — Overedging 1. Cut and fit the garment, allowing for a 15 mil- limeter (5/8”) seam allowance. Baste seam line. 2. Trim seam edge evenly to a scant 6 milli- meter (1/4”) from seam line basting. 3. Place seam under the presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seam line and the zig-zag stitches fall over the seam edge. Method #2 — Mock Overedging 1. Cut and fit garment, allowing for a 15 milli- meter (5/8”) seam allowance. Baste seam line. 2. Place seam under presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seam line and zig-zag stitches toward the seam edge. 3. Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric to produce a narrow seam edge. When seam supports the garment, omit the trim- ming step. 90Method #1—Overedging Method #2—Mock Overedging 91LADDER SEAM The blindstitch ladder seam is particularly ap- propriate for knit and stretch fabrics. It is ideal for stretchable construction seams, and edge finishes for necklines, pockets and collars in sportswear and swimsuits. Pattern Disc: No. 350 Stitch Width: 4 Needle Position: ele Stitch Length: 1.5 to 2.5 Presser Foot: General Purpose . Make a test sample to adjust stitch length and needle-thread tension to suit the fabric. (Needle-thread tension should be lighter than normal.) Cut and fit garment, allowing for 15 millimeter (5/8”) seam allowance. Baste seam line. 3. Place fabric under presser foot so that the straight stitches fall on the seam line basting and the points toward the center of the gar- ment. After stitching, open seam by pulling fabric back on opposite sides of the seam to pro- duce ladder effect. Press seam allowance after opening. N * 92Blindstitching a Ladder Seam SESH Opening Seam to Form Ladder Effect 93ATTACHING ELASTIC Elastic will remain stretchable when it is at tached with the multi-stitch zig-zag. The flexi- ble joining produced by this stitch is particu- larly useful in the construction of lingerie and swimsuits. * Pattern Disc: No. 2 or 37 © Stitch Width: 3 or 4 «Needle Position: ala © Stitch Length: About 1.5 Presser Foot: General Purpose To Attach Waistline Elastic 1. Fit elastic at waistline, allowing 25 millimeters (1") for joining. Lap ends and join with multi-stitch zig-zag. . Divide elastic band and garment waistline into quarters or eighths. Place elastic over fabric and pin the two together at these points 3. Take a few stitches to anchor elastic in place, then stretch elastic between pins as you sew, using both hands to hold elastic taut in front and back of the presser foot. ny PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS « Pattern Disc: No. 37 © Stitch Width: 1 * Needle Position: ale * Stitch Length: 1 to2 * Presser Foot: General Purpose A narrow, closely spaced elastic stretch stitch is ideal for seaming knit and stretch fabrics. It can be used in place of straight stitching to re- tain fabric elasticity and is particularly ap- propriate for underarm and crotch seams where stretch and give is essential. Stitch and press seam edges open as when using the straight stitch. 94Attaching Elastic Plain Stretch Seam 95* Pattern Disc: No. 1 © Stitch Width: 0 and 3 * Needle Position: de * Presser Foot: Button Foot * Feed Cover Throat Plate The space between the holes in the button determines the stitch width settings. The 0 set- ting must always be used to position the button and to fasten stitching. For buttons with stan- dard hole spacing use setti 0 and 3. For but- tons with unusual hole spacing, use setting 0 and increase or decrease the zig-zag width set- ting as necessary. . Set needle position at dy , and stitch width at 0. Position button under foot so that the needle enters left hole, and lower the presser foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of button and is just above the foot. 2. Set.stitch width selector at 3. Then when you begin to stitch, the needle should enter the right hole of the button. Take six or more zig- zag stitches at this setting, ending on the left side. . To fasten stitching, return to stitch width set- ting 0 and take about three stitches. 2 FORMING A THREAD SHANK Buttons sewn on coats and jackets should have a thread shank to make them stand away from the fabric. To form a thread shank, sew over the blade of a regular machine needle. Position button and lower button foot. Place needle in groove of foot so that the point en- ters the hole in the foot. The farther in you push the needle, the longer the shank will be. © After stitching, remove the needle from the groove. Remove work and cut the threads about 15 centimeters (6 inches) from fabric. Pull thread ends to back of button and form a firm shank between button and fabric by winding threads tightly around the attaching stitches. Tie thread ends securely. 96Needle in Groove of Button Foot f Pull Needle Threads Thread Shank to Back of Button Completed Forming Thread Shank 97buttonholes You have a choice between two methods of making bar-tack buttonholes; using the built-in- four-step system, or manually controlling the selectors. On pagest04and 110, you will find detailed in- structions for using the two methods; but you will find the following information basic to both. . Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric. Be sure to duplicate the thick- ness of the garment and include interfacing if appropriate. p Use No. 50 or finer mercerized cotton thread or embroidery thread, and reduce needle- thread tension to slightly ess than normal. 3. Use a size 11 needle for embroidery thread and a size 14 needle for cotton thread. BUTTONHOLE POSITION Accurate guidelines are essential to keep but- tonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment, evenly spaced, and on the grain of the material. Mark the center line of the garment. This guide- line can be made by hand basting. The space from the center line to the finished edge of the garment must be from 2/« to the full diameter of the button. With this spacing, the button will not extend beyond the edge when the garment is buttoned. Make sure the center jine marking follows a lengthwise fabric thread. 98Edge of Garment + Center Line Buttonhole Diameter of Button Buttonhole Position 99Marking the Garment * Mark a position guideline with hand basting for each buttonhole. Horizontal buttonholes are placed to extend 4 millimeters ('/8”) beyond the center line of the garment, as illustrated on page101, so that buttons will be in the center of the figure when the garment is fastened. Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should follow a cross- wise fabric thread and should be longer than the finished length of buttonhole. Mark ends of buttonhole vertically. Vertical buttonholes are placed on center line of garment, as illustrated. Mark ends of buttonhole horizontally across the center line basting. Spaces between buttonholes should be equal. When a line of buttonholes crosses the waist- line, be sure that one buttonhole will fall exactly on the waistline. Then measure the other button- hole markings from that point.Horizontal Placement on Crosswise Grain Center Line of Garment Vertical Placement on Lengthwise Grain 101BUTTONHOLE LENGTH First decide how long the opening needs to be. To find the right length, cut a small slit in a scrap of fabric and gradually enlarge it until the button slips through easily. Then add at least 4 milli- meters (2 millimeters for each bar tack). This bar-tack measurement is approximate; on some buttonholes you may need to increase it to ar- rive at pleasing proportions. CUTTING BUTTON OPENING Use a pair of small sharp scissors to cut button opening. Insert blade in center of cutting space and cut from this point in either direction. Place a pin across the cutting space at each end of the buttonhole to protect the end stitching. 102Testing Buttonhole Length Cutting Button Opening 103BUTTONHOLES MADE WITH THE BUILT- IN FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLER The four dial settings for buttonholing are lo- cated on the opposite side of the stitch length selector. As you turn the dial for each step, your machine is automatically set for the correct needle position, stitch width, and stitch length, as well as for stitching direction for that step. You need not turn the fabric during button- holing. * Pattern Disc: No. 1 * Presser Foot: Buttonhole Foot Procedure: * Follow the instructions beginning on page 98 for preparing and marking the garment. Raise the needle above the fabric. Position the work under the buttonhole foot aligning center marking of buttonhole with center score line on the foot. Align end marking of buttonhole with the horizontal score lines on the foot. Set reverse-stitch push button in neutral posi- tion. Adjust if necessary to equalize difference in stitch density between left and right side of test buttonhole. Turn to page 108 for de- tailed instructions, 104End of Buttonhole Starting Position Align © with @ Neutral Position 105Step 1: Side Stitching With the needle raised above the fabric, turn the buttonhole dial clockwise to step 1. Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower the foot and stitch to end of buttonhole (point B). The end marking should be aligned with the horizontal score lines on the foot. Step 2: Bar Tack Raise the needle above the fabric. Turn button- hole dial counterclockwise to step 2. Take four or five stitches to point C. Step 3: Side Stitching Raise the needle above the fabric. Turn button- hole dial counterclockwise to step 3. Stitch to within two stitches of the end of the buttonhole (point D). Step 4: Bar Tack Raise the needle above the fabric. Turn button- hole dial counterclockwise to step 4. Take four or five stitches to point E. For a smooth, satin appearance and greater durability, stitch around the buttonhole a second time by repeating the four-step sequence. Remove the work, draw threads to the under- side, tie, and trim. Cut button opening with sharp scissors. When buttonholes are completed, rotate dial counterclockwise to stitch length settings to set machine for regular stitching.107Adjusting Forward-Reverse Stitch Balance Differences in stitch density between the right and left sides of the buttonhole (forward and reverse stitching) are equalized by adjusting the reverse-stitch push button. A verv slight rotation of the button will produce a noticeable change. 1, Make a test buttonhole with the push button in neutral position (indicator dot directly below W > symbol on control panel). If the stitches on the right side of the button- hole are too open, rotate the push button clockwise from its neutral position to increase density of stitching. If the stitches on the /eft side of the button- hole are too open, rotate the push button counterclockwise from its neutral position to increase density of stitching. nN 9 After buttonhole stitching is completed, return push button to its neutral position (indicator dot directly below Ww symbol on control panel). 108To Increase Density on Right Side To Increase Density on Left Side 109BUTTONHOLES (MANUAL METHOD) Settings: «Pattern Dise: No.1 © Stitch Width: See below * Needle Position: Stitch Length: Between 0 and1 Presser Foot: Special Purpose Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric. Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the garment and include interfacing if ap- propriate. Follow the instructions beginning on page 98 for preparing and marking the garment. Stitch Width Settings You will use two stitch width settings: one for side stitching and one for the bar tacks (the closings at each end of the buttonhole). These stitch widths may vary according to the size of the buttonhole required. Two possible combina- tions are illustrated on next page. 110Stitch Width Selector Settings Ee ee Side Stitching enh E3 ma Bar Tacks Side Stitching 11Procedure Place work under needle, aligning center mark- ing of buttonhole with the centerline on the special purpose foot. Step 1: Side Stitching Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower the foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot and pivot work on needle. Lower the foot. Take one stitch with- out changing stitch width setting, bringing work to point C. Step 2: Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks, and take about six stitches. Stop at point D. Step 3: Side Stitching Readjust stitch width selector for side stitching. Complete work to point E. Leave needle in fabric. 112wy a ‘Hn + ww WW 5 we it Ww / «ww ET) a ww en ow) HAN, ~ ww oa a vy tH i - 3 5 Step 2 Step 3Step 4: Final Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks, press reverse-stitch button, and take about six stitches in reverse, ending at point F. Step 5: Fastening Stitch To secure stitching, move stitch width selector to 0 and take three stitches. Remove work, draw threads to underside, fasten, and trim. Cut open- ing for button with sharp scissors. 114+ a 2 a Step 5 115decorative touches TOP STITCHING A practical simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges, pockets, sleeves, etc. For a tailored look, use rows of straight stitching. For decorative inter- est, use decorative stitching. SHELL EDGING On soft, fine fabrics, shell edging makes an attractive finish for narrow hems or bias folds. * Pattern Disc: No. 350 * Stitch Width: 2 to 4 * Needle Position: ale * Stitch Length: To suit fabric + Presser Foot: General Purpose 1. Make a test on a sample of your fabric to find the right thread tension, stitch width and stitch length. 2. Place folded hem (basted, if necessary) or bias fold under presser foot, with hem or fold toward the left. 3. Stitch slowly, guiding fabric so that the side- ward stitches do not pierce the folded edge. 116Top Stitching Shell Edging 17MONOGRAMS AND MOTIFS Many of the decorative stitch patterns can be used for monograms or motifs, adding a per- sonal touch to a blouse collar, for example, or for initialing household linens. You can buy designs or create them yourself. Stitching a Monogram or Motif * Pattern Disc: Any decorative pattern * Stitch Width: 1 to 4 * Needle Position: * Stitch Length: Between 0 and 1 © Presser Foot: Special Purpose 1. Make a sample first to determine suitability of stitch pattern and to find the right stitch width and stitch length settings. 2. Transfer the design (by tracing, usually) to the right side of the fabric. 3. If the fabric is soft or loosely woven, baste a backing of lawn or organdy onto the wrong side. Finding the beginning of the pattern unit When you use decorative stitch patterns in a motif, always start stitching at the beginning of the pattern unit, that is, at the beginning of the domino, arrowhead, or whatever pattern you are using. To find the beginning: 1. On a scrap of material, stitch until you come to the end of a complete pattern unit. Now you are ready to start stitching at the begin- ning of the next unit. 2. Raise the presser foot and remove scrap material. 3. Position motif under the needle, lower the presser foot, and stitch. 4, After stitching, trim the backing,.if used, close to the stitching. 118Monogram ih Zig-Zag and Domino Stitch Beginning of y Pattern Unit Arrowhead aw Arrowheads in Star MotifAPPLIQUE Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothes and household linens. Either contrasting or self fabric can be used effectively. The stitch most commonly used in appliquéing is the plain zig-zag stitch ( MM), closely spaced to form a satin stitch. The width of this stitch can be varied to accommodate fabrics of different weaves and textures. Many of the other stitch patterns can be used to appliqué with decorative stitching. To prepare for appliquéing, make a sample to help you decide which of the following two methods is more appropriate for your fabric and design. © Position the design. * Baste it to the fabric. © Attach special purpose foot. Method No. 1 . Insert pattern disc for desired appliqué stitch. Set stitch width selector for the desired width, and set stitch length dial for satin stitching (between 0 and 1). Outline the entire design with appliqué stitching. Trim away excess fabric on the outer edges of the stitching. Remove basting. Ld s 120Method No. 1 Trimming After Stitching 121Method No. 2 pa so a . Insert pattern disc for desired appliqué stitch. . Adjust stitch width selector for straight stitch- ing and outline the entire design with a short stitch. Trim raw edges to the stitching. . Adjust stitch width selector to desired width setting for appliqué pattern, and set stitch length selector between 0 and 1. Stitch, following and covering straight-stitch outline. This step will produce a smooth over- edged finish with no raw edges to be trimmed. Remove basting. 422Method No. 2 Stitching After Trimming 123keeping up appearances MENDING Many of the zig-zag stitch patterns are just as useful for mending as they are for creative sew- ing, The multi-stitch zig-zag (_-“-"s, ) forms a firm, flexible bond for repairing tears and for replacing elastic. The plain zig-zag ( MM) is useful for making bar tacks to repair lingerie. Tears * Pattern Disc: No. 2 * Stitch Width * Needle Position: ol, * Stitch Length: About 1 or to suit fabric * Presser Foot: General Purpose 1. Trim ragged edges. Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement. (It is best not to baste or pin the underlay since you will be bringing the edges of the tear together in the next step.) Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges of the tear together. 4. Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength. 5. Trim underlay. N od Bar Tacks Use Disc No. 1, plain zig-zag, at satin-stitch length (between 0 and 1) to bar-tack garters, pockets, zippers, shoulder straps, etc. 124A Tear Mended with Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag SWINE NTN ‘ i Hi ae y Bar Tacks 125Seam Repair Breaks in seams can be repaired quickly and easily by using the straight stitch. 1. Remove loose thread along the break and press seam edges together. 2. Re-stitch along the original seam line, over- lapping stitching about 25 millimeters (1”) at each end. Press seam open. BLANKET BINDING Often you can make an oid blanket look almost new by replacing the binding. * Needle Position: ole * Stitch Length: 1-1.5 * Presser Foot: General Purpose 1. Remove worn binding. 2. Baste new binding securely. 3. Increase stitch length if necessary so that blanket feeds freely. 4. Stitch, and remove basting. 126‘Seam Repair Blanket Binding 127DARNING You may'choose to darn either with or without an embroidery hoop. When greater control is needed, an embroidery hoop is usually best. Darning Without Embroidery Hoop Stitch Width: Needle Positior Stitch Length: 1.5-2.5 Presser Foot: General Purpose Pressure Dial: 0 1. If area to be darned is open, baste an under- lay in place. 2. Place area to be darned under the presser foot. Lower the presser foot and start stitch- ing, alternately drawing the fabric toward you and gently pulling it away from you until area is filled with parallel lines of.stitching. 3. For additional strength, cover area with cross- wise lines of stitching. 128Darning Without Embroidery Hoop 129Darning With an Embroidery Hoop © Stitch Width: 0 © Needle Position: * Stitch Length: Between 0 and 1 Presser Foot: None Feed Cover Throat Plate Preparation: 1. Remove regular throat plate and insert feed cover throat plate. 2. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned. 3. Center worn area in embroidery hoop. Pull fabric as taut as possible. 4. Position work under needle and /ower presser bar to engage thread tension. Procedure: 1. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand wheel toward you, and draw bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric. 2, Reinforce the area to be darned with stitch- ing 6 millimeters (‘/«”) from the edge. 3. Stitch across opening, moving hoop under needle at a slight angle from lower left to upper right. Keep lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length. 4. When opening is filled, cover area with cross- wise lines of stitching . 1308. Caring for Your Sewing Machine cleaning and lubricating How often you will need to clean and lubricate the machine will depend on how often you use it and where you keep it. The following general guidelines assume that you will be sewing sev- eral times a week. But if you use your machine more frequently, lubricate it more often than the guidelines suggest. CAUTION: Before cleaning and lubricating your machine, disconnect the power-line plug from your electrical outlet. EVERY FEW WEEKS — Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts. With a soft cloth, clean: * Tension discs « Take-up lever and thread guides « Presser bar and needle bar « Bobbin case (see page 134 for removal) « All machine surfaces (If necessary, dampen the cloth. Do not use detergents. Remove throat plate, as instructed on page 12, and clean: « Feed and hook area (after cleaning, apply one drop of oil at point indicated) 132Clean Between Tension Discs 133,Removing and Replacing Bobbin Case . Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to its highest position. Open slide plate, remove throat plate (see page 12), and remove bobbin. . Lift and slide bobbin case holder to right as shown. 4.To remove bobbin case, twist case to right and lift out. Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of case straddles positioning stud under feed. Twist bobbin case to left. Push bobbin case holder to left until it snaps into position. Replace bobbin and throat plate. Close slide plate. nv 2 o No ° 134jacing Removing and Repl: Bobbin Case Positioning Stud 135EVERY FEW MONTHS— Lubricate parts under arm top cover and behind face plate. © Raise top cover lid, loosen screws, A and B, and lift arm top cover off machine. * Loosen screw C and remove face plate. NOTE: Screws A, B, and C are designed to re- main in the top cover and face plate to prevent them from being lost. A Removing Top Cover 136Removing Face Plate 137* Apply a drop of oil (but no more than a drop) to all places indicated. © Apply three drops of oil to all places indicated by (tT). © After oiling, replace face plate first and then arm top cover. Sew a few lines of stitching on ascrap of material td remove excess oil. © Apply a small amount of SINGER gear lubri- cant to gears as shown. Never apply oil to gears. SINGER gear lubricant and oil are available for purchase at your Singer store. oil Oil 138Lubricating Top of MachineLubricate bottom of machine * Clean out lint and apply oil to each of the places indicated. [a Se 1a IF MACHINE IS TO BE STORED * Disconnect power-line plug from electric outlet. * Clean all exposed parts and area behind face plate. * Swab all exposed metal parts and parts be- hind face plate with SINGER oil to protect against rust. 140hints for home service If needle breaks, make sure... * Needle is straight, correct class for machine and proper size for thread being used. * Needle is correctly inserted into machine. * Stitch width and needle position selectors are correctly set for work being done. * Stitch width setting does not exceed No. 2 setting when twin needle is used. © Presser foot is securely fastened to presser bar. If needle thread breaks, make sure... * Machine is threaded properly. © Thread is unwinding freely from spool. * Thread is free from slubs and knots. * Needle is correct size for thread. * Needle-thread tension is not too tight. © Bobbin and bobbin case are properly inserted in machine. Remember to... * Remove thread from bobbin before rewinding. * Keep a pattern disc on disc holder at all times. * Set combination stitch length and buttonhole dial for regular stitching when not making buttonholes. 141ADJUSTING BOBBIN WINDER If there is too much thread on the bobbin: Loosen stop latch screw A. ¢ Slide latch B to the left for less thread on bobbin. Tighten stop latch screw. If there is not enough thread on the bobbin: e Loosen stop latch screw A. ¢ Slide latch B to the right for more thread on bobbin. Tighten stop latch screw. ADJUSTING MOTOR BELT TENSION Tension on the motor belt should be just suffi- cient to keep the belt from slipping. If the motor belt needs adjustment: © Loosen motor bracket screw a full turn. © To increase belt tension, lower the motor bracket. To decrease belt tension, raise the motor bracket. * Tighten motor bracket screw. 142For Less = —_= For More Thread Thread Adjusting Amount of Thread ‘on Bobbin Motor Bracket CSS Screw Adjusting Belt Tension 143CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB CAUTION: Disconnect power-line plug from electrical outlet before changing light bulb. If label at back of the motor indicates less than 150 volts, use a 15-watt bulb. If label indicates more than 150 volts, use a 20- watt bulb. Removing Bulb. Raise light shield. Press bulb into socket and at the same time turn bulb over in direction shown to unlock bulb pin. (Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb.) Replacing Bulb. Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin entering slot of socket, and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in position. Lower the light shield. 144REPLACING THE SLIDE PLATE You will not have any occasion to remove the slide plate. However, if it should accidentally become disengaged from the machine, it is easily replaced. © Raise the presser foot and make sure needle is in its highest position. © Place slide plate in slide way with the front edge close to, but not covering, the retaining spring (as shown). © With a small screwdriver, lift each end of the spring into each of the side grooves on the underside of the plate. * Draw the plate gently toward you and fully engage the spring. * Close slide plate. Replacing Slide Plate Raise Presser Foot and Needle Lift Retaining Spring into Slide Plate Grooves 146Index Accessories Appliqué . Blanket Binding . Blindstitch Hems Bobbin ....... Raising Bobbin Thread . Winding . Bobbin Case . Buttonholes .. Four-Step Method Manual Method . Buttons Caring for Your Sewing Machine . Choosing Needle and Thread . Darning ... . With Embroidery Hoop . Without Embroidery Hoop . Darts ........ . Floral Designs Free-Motion Stitching Guiding and Supporting Fabric Hints for Home Service . . ‘Adjusting Bobbin Winder Adjusting Motor Belt Tension Changing Light Bulb Replacing Slide Plate . Mending .. Monograms and Motifs Needle .. Position . Replacement . Threading Operating the Machine With Electric Motor With Foot Treadle . Presser Feet ...... Changing Presse: Feet . Pressure Adjustment 147 120 126 80 32 24 134 98 104 110 96 132 22 128 130 128Index Pin Basting .. Pattern Discs . Changing Pattern Discs Principal Parts . Reverse Stitching . Satin Stitching Seams Corded Curved Finishes Flat-Felled Inside In Knit Fabrics Lingerie . Straight . Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabrics Shell Edging ... Stitch Length Dial .. Stitch Width Selector . Straight Stitching . Curved Seams Straight Seams . With Twin Needle Tension Adjustment For Zig-Zag Satin Stitching Throat Plates ... vee Changing Throat Plates Top Stitching . vee Twin-Needle Stitching Decorative Stitching Straight Stitching Threading the Needle .. Zig-Zag Stitching . Zig-Zag Stitching . How Patterns are Produced Needle Positions Stitch Length ... Stitch Width .. Thread Tension . Zippers 148 Rossolilo*A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Copyright ® 1977 The Singer Company All Rights Reserved Throughout The World Form SdB 1219 Ed. 10/78 Part number 173318 - 001