Facing

Forward
A Definitive Guide to Skin Care
TM

Reviewed by Dr. Ashley Magovern

 Table of Contents

ABOUT DERMSTORE 3
FOREWORD 4
CHAPTER 1 • How Life Affects Your Skin 5
5 Most Common Skin Concerns and How to Deal With Them
Your Great Skin Checklist
CHAPTER 2 • Building the Best Skin Care Routine for You 10
Get to Know Your Skin Type
What Happens to Your Skin at Your Age
In What Order Should You Apply Your Products?
How Much of Your Products Do You Really Need?
CHAPTER 3 • The Power of Cleansing 15
The Proper Way to Cleanse
The Different Types of Cleansers, Decoded
DermStore’s Top 10 Cleansers
CHAPTER 4 • Why You Should Never Skip Your Moisturizer 19
What’s In a Moisturizer?
DermStore’s Top 10 Moisturizers
Make the Most of Your Moisturizer
CHAPTER 5 • Sun Protection Is Half the Battle 24
5 Sunscreen Myths, Debunked
Know Before You Buy: 15 Sunscreen Terms to Remember
DermStore’s Top 10 Sunscreens
5 Sun-Safety “Rules” to Live By
CHAPTER 6 • Antioxidants: Your Skin’s New Best Friend 30
The 4 Main Benefits of Antioxidants on Your Skin
The Best Antioxidants for You
DermStore’s Top 10 Antioxidants
4 Tips to Maximize the Benefits of Antioxidants
CHAPTER 7 • Exfoliation and Peels 101 34
What Exfoliant Should You Use?
DermStore’s Top 10 Exfoliants
The 7 Commandments of Exfoliation
CHAPTER 8 • The Essential Luxuries: Serums, Masks and Oils 39
Serums
DermStore’s Top 5 Serums
Masks
DermStore’s Top 5 Masks
Oils
DermStore’s Top 5 Oils
CHAPTER 9 • The Big Guns: At-Home Skin Care Devices 45
Deep-Cleansing Devices
Anti-Aging Devices
Glow-Enhancing Devices
DermStore’s Top 10 Skin Care Devices
CHAPTER 10 • Glowing From Within 47
7 Nutrients Your Skin Needs
Why We Love Water
DermStore’s Top 10 Skin Care Supplements
5 Unlikely Foods (and Drinks) That Slow Down Aging Skin
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 52
 About DermStore

DermStore launched in 1999 with the vision

of creating a trusted dermatologist-backed
online store that carries the finest cosmetic
dermatology products. Founded by a board-
certified dermatologist, we have become a
safe haven where customers could purchase
with confidence.

Since 2013, DermStore has been a wholly

owned subsidiary of Target Corporation, and
has grown to offer a wide range of skin care
and cosmetic brands. Our collection includes
professional-strength formulas (otherwise only
available at a doctor’s office), exclusive spa
care lines and salon-grade brands as well as
hard-to-find niche and specialty brands from
around the world.

At DermStore, we understand that your

skin is precious, and so are your time and
money. We’ll make it worth your while. We
are deeply committed to real-world product
testing and bringing you an expertly curated
selection—giving you our promise that we only
sell products we love and stand behind. Our
goal is to help you make holistic, proactive
choices today that ensure lifelong benefits. We
hope to inspire you to discover the very best in
dermatologist-recommended solutions.

3
 Foreword

The world of skin care can seem a bit overwhelming.

With so many brand and product choices available
on the market today, it can be hard to keep up and
decide which ones to try. Not knowing how or even
where to begin with your skin care routine can leave
you feeling confused. But don’t worry, you are not
alone.

As a dermatologist, I see men and women every

day who wish they had started taking care of their
skin earlier—and I agree with them. Regardless of
the reason they are seeing me, be it for a rash or a
mole, they always ask about how they can take bet-
ter care of their skin on the way out. The good news
I tell them is that it is never too late to start.

Our skin is a window to our inner health and well-

ness. There really is no shortcut to youthful-looking science and research that are formulated specifically
skin other than through a healthy mind and body. But for your skin type and concern. Go beyond cleans-
remember that our skin is also our first line of defense ing and moisturizing. Acquaint yourself with the
against the outside world. So as you start making skin-transforming powers of vitamin C, retinol, gly-
better food choices and exercising more often, don’t colic acid and other tried-and-true ingredients stated
forget about your skin care routine. Thankfully, with in this guide. And no matter the season, religious
the right tools and information—like this guide— application of sunscreen remains your best defense
building a good regimen is easier than you think. against skin aging and skin cancer.
And if you dutifully stick to it for a few months, you
will really start to see changes. Transformation takes Good luck in your skin care journey,
time and smart choices. Invest in good formulations,
and choose products with ingredients backed by Dr. Ashley Magovern

Ashley Magovern, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist who owns her own practice, Manhattan Dermatology, in
Manhattan Beach, California. She loves all aspects of dermatology, including both the medical and cosmetic compo-
nents of the discipline. She has a passion for skin care, believes in the importance of a good home routine and loves
educating people on how to come up with an individualized plan. She is the medical director for DermStore.com.

4
 CHAPTER 1
How Life Affects Your Skin

According to San Diego-based triple board-certified From your daily lifestyle choices to your monthly
plastic surgeon Richard Chaffoo, we start aging way hormonal cycle, see how the vicissitudes of life affect
before our first wrinkle appears. “We get 90 percent the quality of your skin.
of our skin’s damage by the age of 18, but it could
take decades for the effects to present themselves.”

As our body’s first line of defense against the world

at large, our skin is exposed to the harshest elements:
We get 90% of our
UV radiation, environmental toxins and microbes,
frigid temperatures and harsh chemicals in skin care skin’s damage by
products. But it’s not just the outside world. Our stress
levels, diet and health also have a direct impact on the age of 18.
our skin. Over the course of a lifetime, these dam-
ages accumulate, and eventually our skin gives in,
paving the way for fine lines, wrinkles, acne, uneven 1. THE SUN
skin tone and persistent redness and rashes. According to The Skin Cancer Foundation, more
than 90 percent of the visible changes commonly at-
The good news is that, despite our past mortal skin tributed to skin aging are caused by the sun. Chronic
sins and constant inner and outer threats, we can exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays—both UVA and
still make a difference in our skin. A good skin care UVB—breaks down collagen fibers and elastin (vital
routine—though it won’t necessarily undo past dam- to the skin’s supple appearance) and interferes with
ages—can go a long way. “I have seen so many the body’s immune and repair systems. It also contrib-
people prevent the damage from becoming visible utes to the formation of free radicals (unstable oxy-
by staying dedicated to a potent daily regimen,” gen molecules that attack healthy cells and perma-
offers board-certified dermatologist Gary Goldfaden. nently damage our DNA), leading to premature skin
“With the right products, you can keep your skin aging and, in some cases, cancer.
looking healthy longer.”
2. YOUR HORMONES
Before we dig deeper into the right skin care reg- “From the teenage-blemish phase to aging skin, the
imen for you, let’s explore the four main factors ebb and flow of hormones has a key effect on the
responsible for the changes in your skin. While some way we look,” shares board-certified obstetrician
of these factors are unavoidable and part of our nat- and gynecologist Rebecca Booth.
ural aging process, some are actually preventable.
5
For instance, during puberty, our bodies start ramp- in alcohol can lead to glycation, which has been
ing up production of sex hormones estrogen and proven to hinder collagen fibers from regenerating,”
androgen, which results in excess oil and enlarged confirms Dr. Goldfaden. Likewise, cigarette smok-
pores—the infamous birthplace of teenage acne. ing plays a major part in the formation of wrinkles.
Meanwhile, fluctuating hormones during pregnancy Studies of identical twins have found smokers to have
can cause acne, dark spots, spider veins and vari- thinner skin (in some cases by as much as 40 per-
ous skin rashes to appear. As one approaches the cent), more severe wrinkles and more gray hair than
menopause stage, when estrogen starts to decline, their nonsmoking twins.
you’ll notice that your skin becomes dry, less elastic
and more prone to acne and hyperpigmentation. 4. SKIN CARE CHOICES
Your skin care routine can make or break your skin.
Aside from estrogen, other hormones are at play. The wrong products—those laden with harsh chemi-
When your body senses a threat, it releases cortisol, cals or that don’t match your skin type—are not only
epinephrine and other stress hormones. This process a waste of hard-earned money, they can also make
causes your muscles to tense up, heart rate and existing skin conditions worse. But the right formulas
blood pressure to spike and digestive and immune for your skin—applied in the proper amount and in
systems to slow down, making you more vulnerable the correct order—may help reverse the damages
to free radical damage and toxin buildup. In other mentioned above and even prevent them from hap-
words: cellulite, breakouts and a sallow complexion. pening in the first place.

3. LIFESTYLE AND DIET

While it hasn’t been proven that certain food like
nuts, potato chips and pizza can trigger acne break-
outs, there is some solid evidence that your diet has
a direct impact on your skin. For instance, sweets
and refined carbs like white bread and pasta can
cause rapid spikes in blood sugar and accelerate
your skin’s aging process. New York-based derma-
tologist Whitney Bowe explains: “Glycation is when
sugar binds to other molecules in your body, such as
protein and lipids. These sugar by-products do two
things: They stop your cells from functioning proper-
ly, and then they create free radicals, which further
damages your cells.”

Moreover, processed foods that are high in sugars,

also known as high-glycemic foods, can trigger
acne. “High-glycemic foods contribute to acne by
elevating serum insulin concentrations,” shares Dr.
Ashley Magovern. “This ramps up oil production and
triggers inflammation. “Dairy foods have also been
shown to be a trigger.”

Even wines and other alcoholic beverages make you

vulnerable to glycation. “Alcohol causes the blood
vessels to swell, and the high levels of sugar found
6
 5 Most Common Skin Concerns
and How to Deal With Them

Skin concerns may be tough to deal with, but it HOW TO DEAL: When looking for a product, keep an
helps to know that you are not alone. (Fact: Even eye out for ingredients that inhibit free radical dam-
supermodels have their own skin battles to fight.) You age and promote collagen production, like vitamin
know what they say about an ounce of prevention? C, to decrease the depth of fine lines and wrinkles.
On top of that, a dash of understanding these skin Likewise, year-round use of sunscreen—coupled with
problems—why and how they happen—is just where a potent antioxidant—protects your skin from the
the journey to great and healthy skin truly begins. So damaging effects of UV rays.
here are five of the most common skin concerns and
a few tips on how to fight back. 3. DARK SPOTS OR HYPERPIGMENTATION
Hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin produces
1. ACNE too much melanin (the pigment that gives skin its col-
According to the American Academy of Dermatol- or) in certain spots, which results in flat, dark patches
ogy, acne is the most common skin condition in the that can vary in size and color. This condition is gen-
United States, affecting 40 to 50 million women not erally harmless and affects all skin types, genders,
just in their teens, but also those in their 30s, 40s, ethnicities and ages.
50s and beyond. Acne occurs when a pore in the
HOW TO DEAL: Topical treatments with ingredients
skin gets clogged, trapping dead skin cells, sebum
like hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid and niacina-
(the skin’s natural oil) and bacteria inside the pore.
mide and chemical exfoliants like AHAs and retinol
HOW TO DEAL : Toning and cleansing your face every are effective at lightening dark areas and evening
day is the first step toward clearing up your skin. You out your skin tone. Wearing sunscreen every day
can also reach for a cleanser with salicylic acid or prevents new ones from forming and stops existing
a spot treatment with benzoyl peroxide. Skin care areas from getting darker.
products with AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) can also
help decongest your pores and reduce the buildup of
dead cells.

2. FINE LINES AND WRINKLES

As our skin becomes more fragile and thin with age,
it also becomes more susceptible to dehydration and
environmental damage, resulting in creases, frown
lines, crow’s-feet and laugh lines. But not all wrinkles
are caused by age and gravity. Many of us get them
prematurely due to the factors mentioned earlier. No
wonder Botox® and other wrinkle-reducing proce-
dures remain one of the most commonly performed
cosmetic services in the United States!

7
4. ROSACEA
Rosacea is a common inflammatory skin disorder
that affects 14 million Americans, and some of
them don’t even know they have it. Persistent facial
redness or flushing, dilated capillaries and skin
breakouts typically characterize this skin condition. In
more severe cases, the nose may become more oily,
bulbous and enlarged.

HOW TO DEAL: As of today, there is no cure for rosa-

cea, but it can be controlled with skin care products
designed to soothe easily irritated skin. Keep in mind
that rosacea can become even more inflamed with
sun exposure, wind, cold weather, alcohol and spicy
foods, so it’s important to know your triggers and
avoid them. Barrier repair and sun protection are
equally crucial.

5. ECZEMA
Eczema, or atopic dermatitis, is a persistent rash-like
skin condition characterized by dry, rough and scaly
patches on the scalp, face and certain parts of the
body. It’s more common in children—between 10
and 20 percent compared to only 1 to 3 percent of
adults—but once you have it as a child, it’s possible
to keep getting milder symptoms as an adult. While
its exact causes are unknown, the most apparent
culprits are a combination of hereditary and environ-
mental factors.

HOW TO DEAL: To prevent flare-ups, avoid products

that contain harsh chemicals and strip your skin of
its natural oils. It’s also crucial to moisturize often to
maintain a healthy skin barrier.

8
Your Great-Skin
Checklist
1. As the old adage goes: “The best defense
is a good offense.” In skin care terms, your best
defense against environmental damage is a good
skin care routine.

2. Alcohol and cigarettes have lasting effects on

your skin. Thankfully, so do exercise and a healthy,
balanced diet.

3. Your hormones can be your skin’s friend or its

worst foe at various stages of your life. Under-
standing how it works can potentially save you a
trip to the dermatologist.

4. Different folks, different skin concerns. So the

right skin care products for another may not neces-
sarily work for you.

5. Just as your eyes are the windows to your soul,

your skin is the window to your health—physically
and emotionally. The surest route to better skin is to
take care of yourself.
 CHAPTER 2
Building the Best Skin Care Routine for You

Just how well do you know your skin? How does it ments and products are right for your skin. You don’t
behave when it’s hot and humid or chilly and dry want your product to make your condition worse.”
outside? What ingredients does it crave? These are
If you aren’t 100 percent sure what type your skin
all important questions because finding the right skin
falls under, don’t worry. We’ve broken it down so
care products is the first step toward building a bet-
you can get to know your skin a little bit better.
ter skin care routine. Think of it as finding your skin’s
soul mate. It could take a lot of trial and error at first,
but if you know your skin well, you’ll be less likely to
end up with a bad breakout.
The same product on two
“The same product on two different skin types may
react completely differently,” says board-certified different skin types may
dermatologist Rebecca Kazin. “This is why it’s im-
portant to identify your skin type and which treat- react completely differently.

10
 Get to Know Your Skin Type
Keywords Ingredients to
Skin Types Major Identifiers Your Skin’s BFF to Look For Watch Out For

Skin with almost no

Normal sensitivity, dryness Lucky you! Your skin can tolerate pretty much everything.
or oiliness.

Rough texture, dull • Creamy Cleansers • Hydrating • Alcohol

color and tightness • Hydrating Boosters • Cream/Creamy • Retinol
Dry
after cleansing are • Rich Moisturizers • Alcohol-Free • Salicylic Acid
your top concerns. • Face Oils • Soap-Free • Benzoyl Peroxide

• Foaming or Gel
More frequent acne
Cleansers • Mattifying • Mineral Oil
breakouts, visible
Oily • Chemical Exfoliants • Oil-Free • Petrolatum
pores and shine are
• Oil-Free Moisturizers • Noncomedogenic • Alcohol
your top concerns.
• Clay Masks

Your skin is dry in • Toners

• Balancing
some areas and • Spot Treatments • Similar to dry
Combination • Non-Drying
oily in others • Blotting Papers or oily skin
• Noncomedogenic
(mainly the T-zone). • Multiple Masks

• Calming Mists
Your skin tends
(Thermal Spring
to react to skin • Calm • Perfumes
Waters)
Sensitive care products with • Mild • Fragrances
• Soothing Botanical
redness, burning • Hypoallergenic • Preservatives
Oils (like aloe and
or acne.
chamomile)

Sometimes your skin type varies according to the but turns oily in the summer, you may want to switch
season or geographical location. In that case, you to a foaming cleanser or a lighter moisturizer. As
don’t need to switch up your entire regimen each we explore the different parts of your new skin care
season. A few tweaks here and there should be regimen, we’ll offer a few product recommendations
enough. For example, if your skin is typically normal based on your skin type.
11
 What Happens to Your Skin at Your Age

Throughout this book, you’ll often hear us speak of stress and environmental damage. Some people
about hydroxy acids, retinol, antioxidants, peptides may also start seeing the first signs of damage, usual-
and growth factors. Dermatologists gravitate toward ly in the form of fine lines around the eyes.
these ingredients because of the solid science behind
them. As new brands, formulations and trends be- WHAT TO DO: There really is no shortcut to great skin
come available, feel free to explore different ingredi- other than a healthy lifestyle. But when life happens,
ents and products. The crucial factor is to ensure that it’s better to equip yourself with a solid routine. For
you are incorporating the critical pillars of skin care. crow’s-feet, reach for an eye cream to prevent them
For a better understanding of what those are, let’s from progressing. Or, better yet, try to use your facial
take a look at what’s happening in your skin products around your eyes, including your sunscreen.
as you age. Most people seem to avoid this area, but if your skin
can tolerate it (be sure to moisturize and not overdo
Your 20s it), go for it. You can also start incorporating gentle
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN YOUR SKIN: exfoliators to refine your pores and even out your
You might not be worried about wrinkles just yet, and skin’s tone and texture. If you haven’t done so yet,
your ready-for-anything attitude means you might be incorporate antioxidants and retinols into your routine
overlooking some easy skin care basics. But caring to speed up cell turnover and help repair damage.
for your skin properly in your 20s can pay off in the
years to come. Your 40s
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN YOUR SKIN:
WHAT TO DO: The best thing you can do for your You’re finally comfortable in your skin, but you’re not
skin in your 20s is to focus on prevention. As a first quite ready to start looking like your mother. In your
line of defense, wear sunscreen suited for your skin 40s, a lifetime of environmental assaults, gravity and
type whenever you go out—even during winter. If the natural aging process lead to the breakdown of
you want to stay ahead of the anti-aging game, opt collagen and elastin beneath the skin’s surface. This
for an antioxidant or a low-dose retinol two or three is why you may be seeing an increase in wrinkles
nights a week to help undo some sun damage and and a decrease in skin firmness.
boost cell turnover.
WHAT TO DO: The good news is that skin care
Your 30s doesn’t have to get more complicated over time as
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN YOUR SKIN: long as you use products geared toward your skin’s
When you’re at the peak of your career, managing needs. Seek serums designed for your specific aging
your diet and stress levels and making time for prop- concerns, and continue to make moisturizing and
er sleep and exercise may be the farthest things from exfoliating a priority to restore your youthful glow.
your mind—and your skin is likely to show it. Uneven
texture and tone, visible pores, a few fine lines and
an overall lackluster appearance—blame these on
the slowdown of cellular turnover, reduced oil pro-
duction and weakened defenses against the effects

12
 Your 50s
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN YOUR SKIN:
Menopause can do a number on your skin (among
other things). Changes in hormone levels cause a
drastic decrease in lipid and collagen production
and prompts major skin changes like extreme dry-
ness, deeper wrinkles, loss of volume, sagging and
thinning.

WHAT TO DO: Try a combination of products that in-

clude hydroxy acids (like glycolic acid), antioxidants
and peptides in addition to retinol. These ingredients
work hand in hand in speeding up cell turnover,
boosting collagen production and repairing existing
damage. If your over-the-counter retinoid products
don’t seem to be cutting it anymore, try to up your
dosage or speak with your dermatologist about pre-
scription formulas.

60s and Beyond

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN YOUR SKIN:
As you settle into your golden years, your skin be-
comes thinner and more fragile.

WHAT TO DO: Focus on moisturizing and using gentle

products that will be kind to worn and dry skin. Go
for creams, serums and other hydrating items that
are designed to retain moisture and protect healthy
cells. Remember, sometimes dry skin just represents
layers of dead skin cells that haven’t been able to
turn over quickly—especially in aging skin. It may
sound counterintuitive, but using an AHA like glycolic
acid can actually bring moisture back to your skin by
sloughing the dead skin layers and can also allow
your moisturizers to work better.

13
In What Order How Much of Your
Should You Apply Products Do You
Your Products? Really Need?
Applying your skin care products in the prop- How much of your skin care products do you
er order ensures that your skin receives the full really need to use to maximize its benefits?
benefits of each product. An easy rule of thumb If you’re using too much product, you’re not
to follow is to apply your products with the only wasting your money, but you could also
thinnest consistency to the thickest or from liquid potentially be causing damage to your skin.
to oil. During the day, most experts recommend But if you’re applying too little, chances are
a simple cleanser-toner-light moisturizer/day you’re not reaping the benefits. So how much
cream-sunscreen routine. At night, that’s when you is enough? See our guide below.
load up on skin care actives. Here’s what experts
recommend:

14
 CHAPTER 3
The Power of Cleansing

At the end of a long day, nothing feels quite as good from your skin is to remove your makeup first, then
as cleansing your face. Removing every trace of wash your face with the appropriate cleanser. We’ve
dirt, sweat and makeup allows the skin to breathe, broken this down further in three easy steps.
repair and renew itself. Having a spotless surface
STEP 1: REMOVE YOUR MAKEUP
also helps your other skin care products to penetrate
Choose your poison. Some people prefer a tradition-
your skin more deeply and perform their tasks more
al oil-based makeup remover, while some opt for a
efficiently. As the first step in your skin care ritual, it’s
cleansing oil, a micellar/cleansing water or cleans-
important to nail this part before even thinking about
ing wipes. This step is particularly important if you
your serums and anti-aging creams. Here, we’ll show
wear waterproof makeup.
you how to pick the right one for you and include
tips on how to cleanse your skin properly. Using
STEP 2: WASH YOUR FACE
the right cleanser for your skin type and concern is
Place a small amount of your chosen cleanser into
equally important as knowing how to use it properly
your hands and emulsify with lukewarm water.
in order to maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin.
Massage it onto your skin using circular motions for
at least 30 seconds. Make sure you cover a lot of
The Proper Way to Cleanse
ground, including commonly missed areas like along
Have you ever heard the term “double cleansing”?
the hairline, below your ears, the front and back of
In Asia, “double cleansing” is a method in which
your neck and your décolletage.
removing makeup and washing your face are two
separate steps (and facial wipes do not count). “The
STEP 3: RINSE AND PAT DRY
first step is to take off your makeup. This is the step
Remember to rinse your face with warm water, not
in which you would typically use a cleansing oil,”
hot. Once done, gently pat (instead of rub) your skin
explains cosmetic acupuncturist and herbalist Kath-
with a clean, dry towel.
leen Funk. “The second step is to use a face wash
to remove all the excess sebum, dirt and makeup Experts have different opinions about how often you
you loosened up on the first step. This leaves your should wash your face. Our advice? Listen to your
skin fresh and perfectly prepped to absorb your skin skin. Some skin types can benefit from a twice-a-day,
regimen.” morning-and-night cleansing routine to control excess
oil and shine, while the same routine can make oth-
While we don’t call it “double cleansing” in the
ers dry and tight. As a general rule: Wash your face
West, we also abide by the same principle. The best
at night, and never sleep with your makeup on.
way to thoroughly remove pore-clogging impurities

15
 Do You Really Need a Toner?
While toners were initially marketed to remove any So do you absolutely need a toner? Probably not.
leftover traces of makeup or cleanser and tighten But if you don’t mind the extra step (and people do
the skin, the newest breed of toners do much more love toners), it can certainly be beneficial with the
than that. No, they don’t physically “shrink” pores as right product.
previously believed, but they can serve as a delivery
system for antioxidants, calming ingredients and
even exfoliating acids.

The Different Types of Cleansers, Decoded

With so many cleansing options available, and with

each one touting different benefits, it’s easy to feel
overwhelmed and get swayed by false marketing
claims. Knowing the difference between each type
allows you to filter your options and makes the hunt
for the perfect cleanser a whole lot easier. A quick
note for normal skin types: You can pretty much try
any type of cleanser as long as your skin tolerates it.

1. CREAM CLEANSERS
Cream cleansers are usually thick, creamy and
contain moisturizing ingredients like botanical oils.
They gently cleanse your skin without stripping it of its
natural oils. Cream cleansers can also come in the
form of “milk” or “lotion.”
IDEAL FOR: Dry and Sensitive Skin

2. GEL CLEANSERS
Gel cleansers are clear and, as the name suggests,
have a gel-like consistency. Generally designed for
deep cleansing, they are effective at decongest-
ing clogged pores, removing excess oil and killing
acne-causing bacteria, thanks to their antiseptic and
exfoliating properties.
IDEAL FOR: Oily and Combination Skin

16
3. FOAM CLEANSERS are made with special fibers—some are plant-de-
Foam cleansers are lightweight cleansers that start rived and don’t require the use of any traditional
out as cream or gel and burst into a rich, foamy cleansers—to thoroughly remove impurities while
lather. This type of cleanser removes excess oil as also sloughing off dead skin cells. A few examples
effectively as gel cleansers. are muslin cloths, kassa/kessa mitts and konjac
sponges.
IDEAL FOR: Oily and Combination Skin
IDEAL FOR: Oily and Combination Skin
4. OIL CLEANSERS
Washing your skin with oil may sound like a recipe
for breakouts, especially if you have oily skin, but
most experts disagree. An oil cleanser is a gentle
way of removing pore-clogging debris—including
waterproof makeup—without drying your skin.
IDEAL FOR: All Skin Types

The New Crop of Cleansers

Need more cleansing options? The new breed of
cleansers utilizes unique ingredients that promise to
give you the same squeaky-clean look without leav-
ing your skin tight and dry.

1. CLAY CLEANSERS
Known for their absorbing power, clay cleansers
purify your skin by drawing out excess oil and toxins
from your pores.
IDEAL FOR: Oily and Combination Skin

2. CLEANSING BALMS
These cleansers come in the form of wax and melt
into an oil-like consistency. They’re usually followed
by washing your face with a separate cleanser.
IDEAL FOR: Dry and Sensitive Skin

3. MICELLAR CLEANSERS
Originating in France, micellar waters feature “mi-
celles”—or tiny oil molecules suspended in soft
water—that attract oil, dirt and makeup. Another
great thing about them: You don’t need to rinse them
off with water.
IDEAL FOR: Dry and Sensitive Skin

4. CLEANSING CLOTHS, MITTS AND SPONGES

There are cleansing wipes, and then there are
cleansing cloths, mitts and sponges. These cleansers

17
 TOP10
CLEANSERS
BY DERMSTORE

1. DHC 6. Jan Marini

Deep Cleansing Oil Bioglycolic Face Cleanser

2. Glytone 7. PCA Skin

Mild Gel Wash Facial Wash

3. Obagi 8. La Roche-Posay
Nu-Derm Foaming Gel Toleriane Purifying Foaming
Cream Cleanser

4. Glytone 9. Avène
Mild Cream Wash Cleanance Cleansing Gel
for Face and Body

5. SkinCeuticals 10. Dermalogica

Purifying Cleanser Special Cleansing Gel

18
 CHAPTER 4
Why You Should Never Skip Your Moisturizer

“Do I really need a moisturizer?” Dermatologists get adds board-certified dermatologist Fayne L. Frey. “In
this question all the time, and for the vast majority of fact, 80 percent of all ingredients found in moistur-
us the answer is yes. Board-certified dermatologist izers, anti-aging creams, eye creams, night creams
Sandra Kopp elaborates: “Even though your body and firming creams are actually similar. These prod-
has its own natural lubricating system—consisting ucts increase the water content of the skin, improving
of glands that secrete oil or sebum—to maintain a the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
protective coating against outside conditions and in-
fections, most of us do need extra hydration after the 2. IT PREVENTS INFLAMMATION AND MAKES
havoc that sun, weather and harsh chemicals wreak YOU BREAK OUT LESS.
on our skin.” If you think sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin
doesn’t need to be moisturized, think again. Accord-
BUT HERE’S THE THING: Moisturizers don’t exactly ing to board-certified dermatologist Purvisha Patel,
add moisture to your skin. What they really do turns when the skin is not properly hydrated, it becomes
out to be much more important than you think. To easily irritated and becomes a lot more susceptible
shed light on this, we asked skin experts to weigh in. to allergens and breakouts.

1. IT SLOWS DOWN THE AGING PROCESS. “If you don’t use enough moisturizer, the skin can
“Using a moisturizer morning and night plays a crack and become sensitive,” she explains. “And
big part in achieving healthy and younger-looking when you become exposed to products or agents
skin,” offers Bioelements director of education Teresa that are too harsh for your particular skin type, your
Stenzel. “Of course, the appropriate cleanser, toner, body will release histamine in your skin, which you’ll
broad-spectrum sunscreen and weekly exfoliation are recognize as an allergic reaction or acne breakout.”
important as well, but your moisturizer is what ‘seals’
the deal.” 3. IT DELIVERS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS THAT AD-
DRESS YOUR SKIN CONCERN.
According to Stenzel, when your skin’s barrier Some moisturizers are also designed to do more
function is impaired, it allows all sorts of pollutants, than just moisturize. Some also contain active ingre-
bacteria, free radicals and UV rays to attack your dients—from exfoliants to antioxidants to anti-inflam-
skin, damaging healthy cells and speeding up your matories—to deliver added benefits to your skin.
skin’s aging process. The result: fine lines, wrinkles,
hyperpigmentation and sagging skin.
“Antiwrinkle creams are actually moisturizers,”

19
“Moisturizers are not one-size-fits-all,” says Stenzel. keep the skin’s water at an optimum level.”
“A moisturizer formula is designed to work with your
skin type, not just to keep your skin smooth, lubricat- 5. IT PRIMES YOUR SKIN FOR MAKEUP.
ed and balanced, but also to deliver active ingre- Moisturizers also act as a barrier between your skin
dients that soothe, repair or rejuvenate, depending and the chemicals in your makeup. It also evens out
on what your skin needs. This is why it’s important your skin’s surface, allowing your makeup to glide
to know what your genetic skin type is and pay more easily.
attention to what your skin is lacking, so you will
know which formula is best for you and get the most 6. IT SOOTHES YOUR SKIN AND IMPROVES
benefit out of your moisturizer.” YOUR COMPLEXION ALMOST IMMEDIATELY.
We all know what dry skin looks like: rough, scaly,
4. IT STRENGTHENS YOUR PROTECTIVE BARRI- dull and with occasional white, flaky patches. Since
ER AGAINST ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE. some moisturizers contain humectants and emol-
As our body’s protective barrier, the skin’s main func- lients—agents designed to attract and trap moisture
tion is to expel toxins and prevent harmful elements on the outer layers of your skin—moisturizers can
from entering and attacking our body. But without an improve the appearance of your skin almost immedi-
adequate supply of water (which basically makes up ately.
every living cell in our body, including skin cells) the
skin loses its ability to perform its duty. “Moisturizers that contain emollients and humectants
are designed to make the skin feel soft and appear
“In order for the skin to function with the maximum smooth,” explains Dr. Frey. “Humectants work by
efficiency and be protected against environmental attracting water from below the epidermis and from
agents, it needs to be adequately hydrated,” says the atmosphere and drawing it into the stratum cor-
board-certified dermatologist David Bank. “Dehydrat- neum. Emollients, on the other hand, soften the skin
ed skin will not be able to maintain an intact barrier. and impart a smooth and silky feel. Both are great at
Moisturizers, therefore, help to bring and maintain improving the appearance of dry skin.”
water levels in the surface layers of the skin and help

20
What’s in a Moisturizer?
There is currently a broad array of products designed to
moisturize your skin—from creams to oils to balms. But before
we look into that, it’s important to understand the ingredients
that go into your product. There are three main types of
moisturizers: humectant, emollient and occlusive. All
three of them are designed to do different things.

Humectants
KEY INGREDIENTS WHAT THEY DO IDEAL FOR

Glycerin (or glycerol), hyaluronic These ingredients prevent moisture Oily and Combination Skin
acid, propylene glycol, urea, loss by drawing water from the
sorbitol and alpha hydroxy acids atmosphere into the top layer of
(like glycolic and lactic acid) the skin.

Emollients
KEY INGREDIENTS WHAT THEY DO IDEAL FOR

Lanolin, mineral oil, ceramides, These ingredients work by filling Dry and Sensitive Skin
dimethicone, coconut oil and the cracks in between skin cells
other plant-based oils. and sealing in water. Most facial
moisturizers have humectants and
emollients acting in tandem.

Occlusives
KEY INGREDIENTS WHAT THEY DO IDEAL FOR

Shea butter, petrolatum, beeswax Occlusives provide a thicker Severely Dry Skin (as well as
and paraffin. protective barrier to prevent thicker parts of the body such as
water loss. hands, feet, elbows and knees)

21
 TOP10 MOISTURIZERS
BY DERMSTORE

1. Avène 6. SkinCeuticals
Clean-Ac Hydrating Cream Emollience

2. La Roche-Posay 7. Dermalogica
Anthelios SX Daily AGE Smart Dynamic Skin
Moisturizing Cream Recovery SPF 50
With Sunscreen

3. PCA Skin 8. Éminence

Collagen Hydrator Coconut Age
Corrective Moisturizer

4. Avène 9. Jan Marini

Antirougeurs Day Bioglycolic Bioclear
Redness Relief Soothing Face Cream
Cream SPF 25

5. EltaMD 10. NeoCutis

PM Therapy Bio-Cream Bio-Restorative
Facial Moisturizer Skin Cream

22
Make the Most of
Your Moisturizer
1. Most experts agree that the best time to apply
a moisturizer is when the skin is still moist. After
using a gentle cleanser, lightly pat your face damp
and then immediately apply a layer of moisturizer
to lock in the hydration.

2. Remember to adjust your moisturizer each

season as you would your wardrobe. No matter
your skin type, winter calls for heavier products
like balms, oils and creams, while most skin types
can do away with lighter fluids and gels during
warmer months.
ANOTHER TIP: Stick to products specifically
formulated for the face—facial skin has
unique qualities that require special
consideration.

3. Though a good moisturizing regimen is a great

start, it is also important to stay hydrated and get
essential nutrients—vitamins, essential fatty acids
that are the building blocks for healthy skin—from
the food that you eat.
 CHAPTER 5
Sun Protection Is Half the Battle

As we’ve stated in the previous chapter, more than

90 percent of the visible skin changes associated
with aging (think fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin
As we’ve stated in the
tone and sagging skin) are actually caused by the
previous chapter, more than
sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays. If that statement alone isn’t
scary enough to send you into summer hibernation 90 percent of the visible
mode, we don’t know what will. But here’s an en-
couraging thought: In the same study, researchers skin changes associated
found that subjects who applied broad-spectrum
sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher every morning— with aging are actually
and were diligent about reapplying every couple
of hours—reduced their skin aging by 24 percent. caused by UV rays.
This is significantly less than subjects who only used
sunscreen occasionally.

This tells us three things we didn’t know before. One,

the sun plays a much bigger role in skin aging than
what we originally thought. Second, the majority of
sun damage we get isn’t actually from yearly beach
vacations but from seemingly innocent day-to-day ac-
tivities like running errands and enjoying an outdoor
brunch. Third, wearing sunscreen remains your best
defense against sun-induced damage.

Despite what we know about sunscreens, there are

still so many misconceptions about how to use it
correctly. Here are five of them.

24
 5 Sunscreen Myths, Debunked

MYTH 1:
Just about any sunscreen will do.

The SPF number on your sunscreen bottle indicates how well it can protect skin against
UVB rays—the kind that’s responsible for sunburn and skin cancer. But there’s another
range of radiation you’re exposed to while in the sun: UVA, or the rays responsible
for skin aging. To make sure you’re protected against both UVA and UVB, look for
sunscreens that say “broad spectrum” on the label and offer an SPF of 30 or higher.

MYTH 2:
The SPF in your foundation should be enough.

Unless you’re a theater actress, you’ll never apply enough foundation to reap the
benefits of the SPF it contains. Experts recommend applying a nickel-size amount of
sunscreen as the last step in your skin care routine and before applying makeup to
keep your face adequately protected. And don’t forget your entire body!

MYTH 3:
Higher SPF means you can spend more time outdoors.

No matter how high the SPF, the FDA recommends reapplying sunscreen every two
hours for optimal protection. One ounce is advised for keeping your entire body
protected—so in a given day spent at the beach, one person could use almost an
entire bottle of SPF 30 sunscreen in order to stay properly protected from head to toe.

MYTH 4:
As long as you don’t go outside, you are protected.

UVA rays can penetrate glass, so even if you spend a lot of time in your car, you’re not
completely protected. Applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen should be a daily, year-
round habit.

MYTH 5:
Darker skin tones don’t need sunscreen.

While those with darker complexions have a naturally higher SPF protection in their
skin, they are still at risk for skin cancer and aging, making sunscreen application an
absolute necessity. Some sunscreens tend to give dark skin a gray appearance after
application, but newer liquid and more sheer formulas can provide darker women
with protection without changing the way their skin looks.

25
 Know Before You Buy:
15 Sunscreen Terms to Remember

While we can’t avoid the sun, religious application against both UVA and UVB rays.
of sunscreen can make a whole lot of difference in
5. CHEMICAL SUNSCREEN
our skin in the long run, not just in delaying visible
Protects your skin by using chemical filters to absorb
signs of aging but in preventing melanoma, the most
UV light. Commonly used chemical filters include
dangerous form of skin cancer. But with a dizzying
avobenzone, oxybenzone, Mexoryl SX and XL and
array of sunscreen options available, how do you
Tinosorb M.
choose the right one for you? Before we go there,
let’s unlock the mystery that is your sunscreen’s label.
6. MINERAL SUNSCREEN
Here are 15 important sunscreen terms to keep in
Historically appearing white, it works by deflecting
mind.
or blocking the sun’s rays with mineral filters zinc
1. SPF (SUN PROTECTION FACTOR) oxide and titanium dioxide. They’re believed to be
A measure of how much UVB radiation it would take less irritating than chemical sunscreens because they
to burn protected skin (with sunscreen) relative to the don’t penetrate the skin and contain less irritants and
amount required to burn unprotected skin (without allergens. Also known as physical sunscreen, formu-
sunscreen). Let’s break it down. For example, if your lations have greatly improved in recent years, and it’s
skin normally burns after 10 minutes in the sun, an quite easy to find one that doesn’t impart a whitish
SPF 15 would allow you to stay in the sun without hue.
burning for approximately 150 minutes or 15 times
longer.

So does that mean SPF 80 is that much better than

SPF 50? The FDA says there’s not enough data to
support that, so its most recent ruling limits the maxi-
mum SPF value on sunscreen labeling to “SPF 50+.”

2. UVA (ULTRAVIOLET A)
Accounts for up to 95 percent of the UV radiation
reaching the planet’s surface. They are less intense
than UVB, but they penetrate the skin more deeply
and play a major part in skin aging and wrinkling.

3. UVB (ULTRAVIOLET B) 7. PHOTOSTABLE

The shorter of the two UV rays as well as the more This means it doesn’t degrade or change its form
intense (especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.), when exposed to sunlight. You will most often see
UVB damages the skin’s more superficial epidermal this term on sunscreen containing avobenzone,
layers, causing skin reddening and sunburn. It plays which can be unstable if not formulated properly. An
a key role in the development of skin cancer. unstable sunscreen will not offer the sun protection
that it claims on the label and can put you at risk for
4. BROAD SPECTRUM sunburn.
This means that the sunscreen provides protection
26
8. WATER RESISTANT 12. SUN SPOTS
The ability of the sunscreen to stay on the skin—and These flat, brown or black spots appear on the areas
maintain its SPF level—after 40 to 80 minutes of wa- of the skin exposed to the sun, particularly the face,
ter exposure. The FDA only allows the claim “water hands, shoulders and arms. They’re also known as
resistant” on sunscreen labels because it believes no age spots, liver spots or solar lentigines.
sunscreen can rightfully claim to be waterproof.
13. PHOTOAGING
9. NANOPARTICLES Generally refers to the damage done to the body
These particles measure less than 100 nanometers in and skin by prolonged exposure to UVA and UVB
diameter. Some sunscreen ingredients—like zinc ox- radiation.
ide—are reduced to this size so the sunscreen dries
14. FREE RADICALS
clear instead of white. Some consumer and environ-
Unstable molecules that create damage by stealing
mental groups have raised concerns about the health
electrons from healthy cells. Sun exposure generates
risks of nanoparticles, though recent studies revealed
free radicals and causes premature aging.
that nanoparticles are considered safe.

15. ANTIOXIDANTS
10. NON-COMEDOGENIC
Neutralizes free radical damage. When paired with
This term means the product will not clog your
a potent sunscreen, antioxidants up your defense
pores—an important factor to consider if you have
against the sun.
oily, sensitive or acne-prone skin.

11. MELANOMA
It’s the most dangerous type of skin cancer and the
leading cause of death from skin disease.

The Right Sunscreen for You

Now that you’re familiar with important sunscreen
Dry Skin and Sensitive Skin
terms, the second step is finding the right formula
Choose a lotion or cream with added hydrating or
that will sit well with your skin type. Below are a few
moisturizing ingredients, such as glycerin, lanolin,
guidelines to consider.
oils, silicones (like dimethicone) and aloe. Mineral
Normal Skin formulas, or those with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide
If your skin is neither too oily nor too dry it will be as an active ingredient, are also usually kinder to
able to tolerate almost all sunscreen formulas, from sensitive skin than chemical formulas. Avoid sun-
gel to cream to powder. Consider what feels best on screens with alcohol, fragrances or preservatives.
your skin, what’s easiest for you to apply and reap-
Oily and Combination Skin
ply and what activities you engage in every day. If
Look for lightweight sunscreens that come in sheer,
you swim, go to the gym or do outdoor activities,
fluid or gel formulas. It should also say “oil free” or
you’ll need to apply more often.
“non-comedogenic” on the label.

27
 TOP10
SUNSCREENS
BY DERMSTORE

1. EltaMD 6. PCA Skin

UV Clear Broad-Spectrum Protecting Hydrator Broad
SPF 46 Spectrum SPF 30

2. SkinCeuticals 7. Dermalogica
Physical Fusion UV Defense AGE Smart Dynamic Skin
Sunscreen SPF 50 Recovery SPF 50

3. CoTZ 8. MDSolarSciences
Face Natural Skin Tone Mineral Tinted Creme SPF 30
SPF 40 Broad Spectrum UVA-UVB

4. EltaMD 9. Replenix
UV Sport Broad-Spectrum Sheer Physical Sunscreen
SPF 50 Cream SPF 50 Plus

5. Avène 10. La Roche-Posay

Antirougeurs Day Redness Anthelios 50 Mineral Ultra
Relief Soothing Cream Light Sunscreen Fluid
SPF 25

28
5 Sun-Safety Rules to Live By
1. WEAR SUNSCREEN EVERY SINGLE DAY.
Yes, even on days when you don’t see the sun. (No excuses here,
especially with a range of new formulas that make it easy to apply and
reapply.) Make sure your SPF is the last thing you put on before your
makeup, and give it ample time to absorb.

2. OUTSIDE? FOLLOW THE TWO-HOUR RULE.

Feel free to have fun in the sun, just commit to reapplying your SPF
product every two hours and/or after you sweat or get out of the pool.
Keep in mind, too, that the sun’s rays are most damaging between the
hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

3. ELIMINATE “HEALTHY TAN” FROM YOUR VOCABULARY.

The idea of getting a preliminary, “healthy” tan to prevent burning in
the future is a popular one that just won’t go away. And, unfortunately,
it’s anything but a good idea. Anytime your skin develops a tan, that’s
a sign of injury. Your skin is producing more melanin to protect itself
against further damage to its DNA.

4. GET A FULL-BODY SCAN ONCE A YEAR.

Don’t let the cost of this preventative measure deter you. Several clinics
offer the service for free.

5. INVEST IN ANTIOXIDANTS.
Your skin can better defend itself against the sun with a little help from
daily use of a topical vitamin C product. Bonus: Vitamin C can also
help fade existing dark spots.
 CHAPTER 6
Antioxidants: Your Skin’s New Best Friend

In chapter 5 we discussed the important role anti-

The 4 Main Benefits of Antioxidants
oxidants play—along with a potent sunscreen—in
the fight against sun damage. But how exactly do
on Your Skin
antioxidants work? Why is it so crucial to include this 1. ANTIOXIDANTS HELP PREVENT SUNBURN.
additional step in your skin care routine? More impor- “By definition, all antioxidants have anti-inflammatory
tantly, what are antioxidants? properties,” explains Dr. Magovern. “They blunt your
skin’s inflammatory response to the sun’s harmful rays,
One cannot talk about antioxidants without talking
preventing sunburn and providing enhanced protec-
about free radicals. Free radicals are unstable, highly
tion against sun damage and photoaging.”
reactive molecules that have one or more unpaired
electrons. To gain stability, they attack stable mol-
2. ANTIOXIDANTS CAN HELP IMPROVE SIGNS
ecules, triggering a chain reaction that damages
OF DAMAGE.
healthy cells. Antioxidants work by “scavenging”
Inflamed skin impedes the skin’s rejuvenation process.
those loose electrons so they can’t cause damage.
By reducing inflammation, antioxidants allow skin to
Sometimes our bodies purposefully create free radi-
repair itself and correct visible damage. “Some anti-
cals to neutralize viruses and bacteria. But we also
oxidants, like vitamin C, can also stimulate collagen
get free radicals from environmental factors like the
production, which is vital for youthful skin,” adds Dr.
sun, pollution, radiation, cigarette smoke and other
Magovern.
toxic chemicals. Normally our bodies are built with
enough antioxidants to counteract free radicals. How- 3. ANTIOXIDANTS BRIGHTEN YOUR SKIN TONE.
ever, when there are more free radicals in the body Free radicals and frequent sun exposure can also trig-
than the body can accommodate, an imbalance ger changes in our skin’s melanin production, causing
occurs (called oxidative stress). dark spots and uneven skin tone. By reducing pho-
So what does oxidative stress mean for your skin? todamage, antioxidants can help prevent abnormal
Oxidative stress breaks down collagen, hinders skin’s skin pigmentations. Some antioxidants (again, like
natural repair process and triggers inflammation—and vitamin C) also work as a tyrosinase (an enzyme that
you see these as fine lines, wrinkles, loose skin, acne stimulates melanin production) inhibitor.
breakouts and a blotchy skin tone. By scavenging
4. ANTIOXIDANTS CAN HELP PREVENT CERTAIN
free radicals, antioxidants can help prevent and cor-
KINDS OF CANCER.
rect these visible signs and give skin a more youthful
Some antioxidants, such as vitamins A, C and E,
glow. This is where supplementing with antioxidants
have anticarcinogenic properties and may help pre-
comes in.
vent skin cancer.
30
 The Best Antioxidants for You

Antioxidants aren’t all cast in the same mold. While up its claims,” shares shares board-certified plastic
they’re all designed to protect the cells from UV light, surgeon Stafford Broumand. “What is great about
pollution and other environmental elements that pro- retinol is that it is a multifunctional ingredient that can
duce damaging free radicals, some are found to be stimulate cell regeneration, rebuild collagen and re-
more potent than others. duce fine lines and wrinkles as well age spots. It also
exfoliates the skin to refine the texture, minimize pore
1. VITAMIN C size and even the skin tone.”
A favorite among dermatologists, vitamin C is one
of the most studied antioxidants available on the 3. VITAMIN E
market. Other than being a free radical scavenger, Vitamin E is an important vitamin required for the
vitamin C has other skin benefits, like boosting colla- proper function of many organs in the body, includ-
gen production and fading dark spots. But beware, ing the skin. Aside from being a powerful antioxi-
vitamin C is inherently unstable and can lose its dant, vitamin E is widely recognized for its ability to
potency when exposed to light or air. accelerate the skin’s healing process. No wonder
it is often found in moisturizers, creams and lotions
“It’s probably best to store it in a cool, dark drawer
formulated to treat dry skin as well as products de-
or cabinet,” advises Dr. Magovern. “Tetrahexyldecyl
signed to reduce stretch marks.
ascorbate, or THD, is a form of vitamin C that is
inherently more stable, and it’s lipid soluble, which
4. RESVERATROL
means that it can better penetrate into the deeper
A chemical compound found mostly in the skins
levels of the skin to stimulates collagen production.
of fruits like grapes and berries, peanuts, tea and
Some prefer this formulation, which tends to be a bit
red wine, resveratrol serves as the plant’s defensive
velvety and creamy rather than serum-like.”
armor. It’s an antimicrobial substance produced by
plants to protect themselves from air pollution, in-
2. RETINOL (VITAMIN A)
fection, intense UV radiation and extreme climate
If there’s one anti-aging ingredient that’s been prov-
changes. Some studies also vouch for its cancer-fight-
en time and time again to help turn back the clock
ing abilities. As for how this antioxidant does this
on aging skin, it’s retinol. A derivative of vitamin A,
may have something to do with the way it boosts
this ingredient is particularly effective due to its small
the activity of mitochondria, the cells’ powerhouses,
molecular structure, giving it the ability to penetrate
promoting longer cell life in the body.
deep enough into the skin that it can effectively
stimulate collagen production and accelerate cell
5. IDEBENONE
renewal and repair, smoothing fine lines and wrin-
If you know someone who suffers from Alzheimer’s
kles and improving skin tone in the process. Whether
disease, chances are you’ve heard of idebenone.
it’s the over-the-counter or prescription-strength kind
Idebenone—a man-made ingredient similar to co-
(tretinoin), retinol is a powerful antioxidant for fighting
enzyme Q10 (CoQ10)—is a powerful antioxidant,
environmental aggressors that cause premature skin
capable of protecting a wide variety of cells from
aging.
oxidative damage.
“Retinol has truly stood the test of time as one of the
most studied ingredients, with scientific data to back

31
 TOP10
ANTIOXIDANTS
BY DERMSTORE

1. SkinCeuticals 6. SkinMedica
C E Ferulic Vitamin C Plus E Complex

2. SkinCeuticals 7. Replenix
Phloretin CF Power of Three Cream

3. Obagi 8. PCA Skin

Professional-C A and C Synergy Serum
Serum 20 Percent

4. La Roche-Posay 9. Paula’s Choice

Active C Corrective RESIST C15 Super Booster
Dermatological Care
For Wrinkles

5. Jan Marini 10. Cellex-C

C-ESTA Face Serum High-Potency Serum

32
4 Tips to Maximize
the Benefits of Antioxidants
1. IT’S NEVER TOO EARLY TO START.
If you want to kickstart your anti-aging regimen, but you aren’t ready
for more potent ingredients like retinol that may be initially irritating,
antioxidants are the best place to start.

2. YOU CAN USE IT ON YOUR BODY TOO.

Aside from your face, feel free to slather your antioxidant cream on
your neck, hands and forearms because these parts are exposed to
the sun regularly and show signs of age and sun damage.

3. YOU CAN COMBINE ANTIOXIDANT PRODUCTS.

“As long as you don’t experience skin irritation, I don’t see why not,”
explains Dr. Magovern. “We know that vitamin C and E work better
together, and studies have shown that ferulic acid, another antioxi-
dant, may actually stabilize vitamin C and allow it work more effec-
tively.”

4. DON’T FORGET YOUR DIET.

Aside from topical creams and serums, the best way to increase
your antioxidant reserves is by consuming antioxidant-rich fruits and
vegetables. “Brightly colored foods are an easy way to know if you
are eating well. One of my mentors, Dr. Howard Murad, taught me
this,” shares Dr. Magovern. “If you can eat your fruit and vegetables
raw, even better. I am also a believer in oral supplements, such as
vitamins C, D, E and B, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, resver-
atrol and CoQ10, among others. Make sure they are coming from
good sources to ensure efficacy. An integrative medicine physician
or a well-versed nutritionist or dietician can help you choose the right
supplements.”
 CHAPTER 7
Exfoliation and Peels 101

Despite the differences in our skins’ needs, we all 5. It allows for better absorption of moisturizers,
have one thing in common: a longing for the pro- antioxidants and collagen-boosting serums by
verbial and ever-elusive baby-soft skin. But have you removing the top layer of dead and damaged
ever wondered why a baby’s skin is so soft and cells. This also holds true for acne medications
supple in the first place? According to Dr. Gold- and other types of skin treatments for which pene-
faden, babies’ skin cells are naturally replaced every tration is important.
few days. “As you grow older, however, the rate of
It’s just as important to be gentle, go slow and not
cell turnover slows down dramatically. Dead cells
overdo it. Allow your skin to acclimate to an exfo-
on your skin’s surface hang around much longer, a
liating routine. Overexfoliation is a very common
fact that tends to accentuate those fine lines and can
mistake that people make, especially with the excite-
make your complexion look dull and lifeless.”
ment of a new skin routine. It’s also important to stay
The good news? There’s a way to make up for the hydrated with daily use of a moisturizer after you
gradual slowing down of our natural skin-renewal exfoliate.
process and improve its tone and texture almost
immediately: exfoliation. Here are just some of the
direct benefits of regular exfoliation, according to Dr.
Goldfaden:

1. It fades age spots by removing dead skin cells

containing the pigment.
2. It unclogs pores and allows the release of natural
skin oils.
3. It minimizes the appearance of enlarged pores
and superficial scars.
4. It makes fine lines and wrinkles look less visible
because the newly exposed layer of skin reflects
light better.

34
 What Exfoliant Should You Use?
There are two types of exfoliants: physical exfoliants, responds very well to chemical exfoliants because
which use friction to manually remove the dead skin they are less likely to cause irritation.
cells (an example is your face scrub), and chemical
1. ACIDS
exfoliants, which use acids or enzymes to remove
The most common type of chemical exfoliants is
dead skin cells. Let us break this down for you.
hydroxy acids. Hydroxy acids fit into two categories:
alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acid
Physical Exfoliants
(BHA). Both groups of acids are naturally derived
Physical exfoliation involves a product with granules,
from various foods (e.g., sour milk, sugarcane) and
such as facial scrubs, that you work into the skin to
plant-based sources (e.g., willow bark). They also
slough off dead skin cells. If you prefer this kind of
work similarly, but each one produces slightly varied
exfoliation, the best product for you depends a great
results. The main difference? AHAs are water-soluble
deal upon the thickness and sensitivity of your skin.
(dissolves in water), and BHA is lipid or oil-soluble,
All kinds of particles can be used for exfoliation, and
which makes BHA more effective on oily skin.
mainstream products encompass a wide and varied
selection. Here are just a few: The most commonly used AHAs in skin care are
1. LARGER GRANULES glycolic, lactic, mandelic and citric. The only known
People with oilier complexions have larger seba- beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. Though there are
ceous glands, which makes their skin thicker and various types of acids, glycolic, lactic and salicylic
better able to tolerate larger, more abrasive particles acids have the most clinical research behind them
like pumice or magnesium oxide crystals (used in and the most studies supporting their efficacy.
some microdermabrasion procedures).
a. Glycolic Acid
2. SMALLER GRANULES
WHY IT WORKS: Derived from sugarcane, glycolic
Those with drier, sensitive skin can generally use
acid has long been considered by many profes-
products with smaller granules, such as ruby crystals
sionals to be the best-performing AHA. As the
and jojoba beads. Jojoba beads, derived from the
smallest hydroxy acid molecule, glycolic acid can
seeds of the jojoba plant, are small and uniform in
penetrate skin the deepest and the fastest, making
size and shape, so they are less likely to irritate, cut
it the most effective at stimulating collagen produc-
or abrade your skin. This lessens the likelihood of
tion and reducing the depth of wrinkles.
small skin tears.
WHO WILL BENEFIT FROM IT: Aside from reducing
3. SEEDS AND CRUSHED NUTSHELLS
wrinkles, glycolic acid is also effective at reducing
It’s important to remember that certain ingredients,
photodamage, which makes it ideal for those with
although natural, may not be appropriate for your
more mature skin. If you have dry skin, you’ll also
skin. Some natural products, such as crushed
find glycolic particularly useful because it draws
nutshells, seashells, ground fruit pits and seeds, have
moisture to the skin and helps prevent transepi-
uneven edges and irregular shapes that can cause
dermal water loss. It also increases the hyaluronic
tears on sensitive skin.
acid levels in the skin. Sometimes you think your
skin is dry, but it actually just needs some gentle
Chemical Exfoliants
exfoliation.
Chemical exfoliants work by weakening the “cellular
glue” that holds dead skin cells together, encourag- WHAT ELSE YOU NEED TO KNOW: It’s important
ing exfoliation and revealing healthy, younger skin to know that because glycolic acid penetrates
cells. Typically, acne-prone and highly sensitive skin quickly, it can be more irritating than other AHAs
35
and is sometimes not tolerated well by sensitive it makes it somewhat “gentler” than glycolic acid.
skin types.
WHAT ELSE YOU NEED TO KNOW: Studies show that
b. Salicylic Acid low and medium (12 percent) concentrations of
WHY IT WORKS: Derived from willow bark (the lactic acid can increase epidermal and dermal
same place we get aspirin), salicylic acid is both firmness and thickness of skin as well as reduce
highly keratolytic and comedolytic, which means the appearance of lines and wrinkles. It can also
it can not only dissolve dead skin cells on the clear sunspots by accelerating cell turnover and
surface of the skin, but it also sinks into the pore directly inhibiting melanin production.
and clears out oil and debris that cause acne, 2. ENZYMES
whiteheads and blackheads. Additionally, it If you have very sensitive skin, it is often recom-
can correct dark spots without irritating your skin mended to look for facial exfoliants that are en-
because it’s derived from willow bark, which has zyme-based. Enzymes come from natural sources
some topical anti-inflammatory benefits. like fruits and work in the same way as acid-based
WHO WILL BENEFIT FROM IT: Aside from those products, but at a much slower pace, so it allows
with acne-prone skin, darker skin types can also for an extremely safe and gentle exfoliating process.
use this to correct pigmentation issues. Board-cer- This is why we see estheticians using enzymes in
tified dermatologist Haleh Bakshandeh explains: most of their facial treatments and masques.
“While some AHAs and other acids can trigger
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients 3. PEELS
with darker skin types, you won’t see that with sal- Peels are considered chemical exfoliants because
icylic acid. It’s a very safe and predictable acid. they use acids or enzymes to exfoliate your skin.
I use it to treat patients with darker skin looking to They can be classified based on their strength. Keep
correct sun and age spots and hyperpigmentation in mind that the stronger the peel, the longer the
issues.” downtime is.

WHAT ELSE YOU NEED TO KNOW: While BHA SUPERFICIAL – This is the gentlest type of peel
has been shown to be mildly antibacterial, it available and has no downtime. Superficial peels
has not been shown to kill P. acnes bacteria, the only remove the top layer of the epidermis. This
most common bacteria that lead to acne. For this results in instantly brighter and smoother skin.
reason, salicylic acid is often paired with anti- MEDIUM – a longer recovery time and can have
bacterial ingredients for the best results. Salicylic more side effects. They’re usually derived from
acid can also be mildly drying to the skin, so it’s TCA (trichloroacetic acid) and penetrate deep
important to moisturize when using it. Dermatolo- into the skin to treat sun damage, pigmentation
gists recommend a salicylic acid formulation that and wrinkles.
contains 0.5 percent up to 2 percent.
DEEP – These peels are painful and can take
c. Lactic Acid months for full recovery. Deep peels are the stron-
WHY IT WORKS: Like glycolic acid, this sour gest type of chemical peel available. They are
milk-derived acid exfoliates as it increases mois- used for sun damage, scarring and deep lines
ture levels in the top layers of the skin, improving and wrinkles. Typically, they use carbolic acid or
barrier function and resistance to dryness and high-strength TCA to penetrate the deeper, or der-
flakiness. mal, layers of the skin. Laser technology has come
WHO WILL BENEFIT FROM IT: Like all AHAs, lactic a long way and tends to be a safer alternative
acid is great for general exfoliation and skin light- with less risk of complications than deep chemical
ening. But because this is a larger molecule, 36 peels.
 TOP10EXFOLIANTS
BY DERMSTORE

1. Glycolix Elite 6. suki

Gly-Sal 10 Percent-2 Exfoliate Foaming Cleanser
Percent Pads

2. Paula’s Choice 7. Obagi

Skin Perfecting 2 Percent Nu-Derm Exfoderm Forte
BHA Liquid Exfoliant

3. SkinCeuticals 8. CosMedix
Micro-Exfoliating Scrub Purity Clean

4. Dermalogica 9. PCA Skin

Daily Microfoliant Gentle Exfoliant

5. Glytone 10. Avène

Step-Up Boost Mini Peel Gel Gentle Purifying Scrub

37
The 7 Commandments
of Exfoliation
1. START SLOW.
Start once a week if you’re using a physical exfoliant, or a lower con-
centration if you’re using a chemical one, and then work your way up
to see what your skin can tolerate. Ideally, you’d want to exfoliate two
or three times a week for optimum results.

2. CONSIDER YOUR SKIN’S COMFORT LEVEL.

The right acid for you depends on your skin’s tolerance level. AHAs
are typically a better choice for dry skin because they exfoliate on the
surface of skin and help improve moisture content. BHAs are ideal for
oily, acne-prone skin because of their ability to penetrate the pore wall
and clean from the inside.

3. DO A PATCH TEST.
Apply a small amount of your product on the inside of your arm and
then on the forehead (where the facial skin is the thickest) to see how
your skin will respond.

4. USE A DAILY SUNSCREEN.

Some peels and acids can leave the skin sensitive to the sun. While
we normally recommend that you use sunscreen every day, it’s ever
more important to use it when you’re exfoliating.

5. DON’T OVEREXFOLIATE.
If your skin looks red and feels sensitive to touch after exfoliating, it’s
possible that you’ve overdone it. Give your skin a few days to recover
or opt for a lower concentration if you’re using acids.

6. CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR.

It is not uncommon for people to experience mild redness and peeling
when first beginning an AHA/BHA skin care regimen. If persistent
irritation or redness occurs, consult a doctor.

7. IF YOU’RE PREGNANT, BEWARE. Speak to your health care

provider before incorporating acids into your routine. Some acids,
such as salicylic acid, may be harmful to you. AHAs like glycolic acid
are generally safe.
 CHAPTER 8
The Essential Luxuries: Serums, Masks and Oils

Regular cleansing, exfoliation, moisturizing and sun

protection make up the fundamentals of healthy,
glowing skin. For some people, these steps may be
all the care their skin needs. But others who may be
dealing with more serious skin concerns could prob-
ably use an additional dose of skin-loving nutrients
and active ingredients. This is where serums, masks
and oils come in. We call them the essential luxuries.

Good serums, masks and oils contain high amounts

of concentrated vitamins and nutrients that give
additional hydration, brightening or damage-repair
benefits. As such, they can also be used as target-
ed treatments to control certain skin conditions. Let’s
explore them one by one.

Serums
In skin care, serums are used as potent enhance-
ments to many regimens. These products are formu-
lated with greater amounts of active ingredients, and
because they are generally lighter than your tradition-
al face creams, they can penetrate your skin deeper
to truly make a difference. Typically applied daily
as the last step before moisturizing your skin, these FOR FINE WRINKLES, LARGE PORES AND
products are versatile and can be used in numerous SAGGING SKIN: Anti-Aging Serums
ways: They can be added to moisturizers, night These serums feature ingredients that speed up cell
creams and masks to enhance their potency, used as turnover, boost collagen production and improve
a spot treatment for problem areas, or utilized as a your skin’s elasticity. Some also offer skin-firming ben-
stand-alone hydrating gel for oily skin. With contin- efits, making lines and pores less visible.
ued use, serums offer visible results that may not be
realized with most creams and lotions alone. USUALLY CONTAINS: retinol, antioxidants, peptides,
stem cells, growth factors and DNA repair enzymes
There truly are serums for every skin condition. Here
are just some of them. 39
FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION: Brightening Serums bind and seal moisture to your skin. Use this to boost
Depending on the active ingredient, brightening the effects of your moisturizer, or try it alone if you
serums work by either inhibiting some steps along have oily skin.
the melanin pathway (different ingredients inhibit dif- USUALLY CONTAINS: hyaluronic acid, vitamin B-5
ferent steps along the pathway, not just production) and glycerin
or by accelerating cell renewal, improving skin tone
and texture and boosting a dull complexion. FOR INFLAMED SKIN: Calming Serums
USUALLY CONTAINS: hydroquinone, vitamin C, Designed to reduce redness, itch and burning sen-
arbutin, kojic acid, niacinamide and AHAs sations usually associated with reactive or intolerant
and azelaic acid skin, these serums are generally mild, formulated
with natural anti-inflammatory ingredients and without
FOR SEVERELY DRY SKIN: Hydrating Serums potential irritants.
These serums offer a two-pronged approach to USUALLY CONTAINS: chamomile, lavender, aloe,
restoring your skin’s moisture level. First, they repair allantoin and calendula
your skin barrier to prevent moisture loss. Then they

TOP5 SERUMS
BY DERMSTORE

1. SkinCeuticals 2. Obagi
Phloretin CF Professional-C Serum 20

3. SkinMedica 4. Jan Marini

TNS Essential Serum C-ESTA Face Serum

5. PCA Skin
ExLinea Peptide Smoothing
Serum

40
Masks
Just like serums, masks can infuse your skin with vital
nutrients, seal in moisture, soothe stressed skin and
jump-start cell repair. But what makes them more
effective? Masks create an occlusive barrier, sealing
in nutrients and moisture and preventing them from
evaporating. On top of that, some masks can also
draw out impurities from the skin and absorb excess
sebum, making it ideal for oilier complexions.

Masks are typically applied once or twice a week

or whenever your skin needs an instant pick-me-up.
Aside from the fact that you can see results almost
instantly, the beauty of a mask is that you can use a
combination of different ones—either one at a time
or all at the same time (also called “multimasking”)—
or use it in conjunction with your serums and oils.

To help you choose which ones are right for you,

we’ve broken it down according to type and pur-
pose.

FOR DETOXIFYING SKIN: Clay Masks

Clay masks are known for their ability to soak up dirt
FOR SOOTHING INFLAMED OR SUN-DAM-
and excess oil, preventing blackheads and minimiz-
AGED SKIN: Gel Masks
ing the look of large pores. Because of its natural
composition, clay masks also infuse your skin with For those with easily irritated skin, gel masks can
beneficial minerals. Those with sulfur also boast the offer immediate soothing, cooling relief. Usually
ability to kill acne-causing bacteria. infused with collagen and antioxidants, they help
damaged skin recover faster. They also work great
IDEAL FOR: Oily and Combination Skin
on post-procedure skin, especially after microderm-
USUALLY CONTAINS: kaolin, bentonite,
abrasion, waxing, shaving or chemical peels.
sulfur, carbon
IDEAL FOR: Dry and Sensitive Skin
FOR IMPROVING SKIN TEXTURE: Cream Masks USUALLY CONTAINS: aloe vera, calendula, collagen
and antioxidants
Skin that is very dry can sometimes look dull and
feel rough and tight. It’s also more prone to dehy-
FOR EVERYTHING ELSE: Sheet Masks
dration lines and wrinkles. Cream masks, which are
generally rich in botanical oils and moisturizers, can Although sheet masks work with all skin types based
seal in moisture and plump your skin, smoothing on the formulas they contain, they are particularly
away rough skin surfaces and making fine lines and excellent for resistant skin types when paired with
wrinkles less visible. Some cream masks also have your favorite serums.
brightening benefits. USUALLY CONTAINS: botanical extracts,
IDEAL FOR: Normal to Dry Skin hyaluronic acid, antioxidants
USUALLY CONTAINS: botanical oils,
hyaluronic acid, moisturizers 41
TOP5
MASKS
BY DERMSTORE

1. Avène
Soothing Moisture Mask

2. SkinCeuticals
Clarifying Clay Masque

3. Éminence
Clear Skin Probiotic Masque

4. Dermalogica
AGE Smart MultiVitamin
Power Recovery Masque

5. Erno Laszlo
Hydra Therapy Skin
Vitality Mask

42
 Tea tree oil boasts anti-inflammatory and antimi-
Oils
crobial properties, making it an effective spot
These days, slathering oil on your face is no
treatment for acne. Some experts believe that this
longer as horrifying a thought as it was a decade
oil may also be effective on rosacea, considering
ago (especially if you had oily skin). Thanks to
that Demodex, a microscopic mite, is one of the
beauty editors and natural-beauty advocates, we
causative culprits. Some aromatherapy experts
all know now that they work—not only in the way
rely on the anti-inflammatory benefits of certain
of moisturizing dry skin, but also as a rich source
oils like chamomile and calendula to soothe in-
of essential vitamins, antioxidants, essential fatty
flamed skin and reduce redness.
acids and lipids. Because of their natural antimi-
crobial properties, oils can make a great protec-
FOR MOISTURIZING SEVERELY DRY SKIN:
tive barrier against potentially harmful elements in
Coconut Oil
the environment.
Whether you’re suffering from parched hands,
Aside from locking in moisture, some are better at dry cuticles, cracked heels and elbows or even
fighting wrinkles, evening out skin tone and tex- frizzy hair, you may benefit from slathering on
ture and treating a multitude of other skin issues. some virgin coconut oil. Aside from its ability to
Let’s explore some of the most buzzed-about oils. moisturize equally as well as mineral oils, this oil
is nutrient-dense (a rich source of vitamins E and
FOR CLEANSING: Castor, Olive and Jojoba Oils K, iron and lauric acid). It’s also naturally antimi-
Regardless of your skin situation (dry, oily, ac- crobial, antifungal and antibacterial. Some recent
ne-prone or sensitive), oils are great cleansing studies suggest that when applied topically, virgin
agents. Not only do they work effectively at coconut oil can speed up wound healing while
removing makeup, dirt and, yes, even excess oils, reducing water loss in severely dry skin.
they do so without stripping your skin of its natural
oils. Castor and extra-virgin olive oils are two of
the most common oils for cleansing. Both are rich
in moisturizing antioxidants and essential fatty
acids. If you have oily skin, jojoba oil is closest to
the consistency of sebum, so it’s helpful for carry-
ing sebaceous secretions off the body.

FOR REVERSING SIGNS OF AGING AND

SCARS: Rose Hip Seed Oil
Packed with vitamin A, vitamin E and essential
fatty acids that help in healthy cell turnover and
collagen production, this oil addresses a litany of
issues, from sun spots and burns to acne marks
and age spots to stretch marks and scars. Some
studies also support its ability to reduce wrinkles.

FOR SOOTHING ACNE FLARE-UPS AND

ROSACEA: Tea Tree, Chamomile and
Calendula Oils

43
TOP5
FACE OILS
BY DERMSTORE

1. Avène
XeraCalm A.D Lipid-
Replenishing Cleansing Oil

2. Credentials
Liquid Gold

3. DHC
Olive Virgin Oil

4. Éminence
Facial Recovery Oil

5. RMS Beauty
Beauty Oil

44
 CHAPTER 9
The Big Guns: At-Home Skin Care Devices

Have you ever wondered how some women man- you a better sense of which one will work for you,
age to remain spotless despite their age? Of course, let’s categorize them according to what they’re for:
good genes and a solid skin care regimen can go deep-cleansing, anti-aging and glow-enhancing.
a long way. It’s also possible that they get frequent
treatments from their facialists and dermatologists—a
rewarding yet sometimes costly endeavor. The good
news is that some of the cutting-edge machines used
at their offices are now available in petite-yet-power-
ful versions, and you can use them right in the com-
fort of your own bathroom. The question is: Are these
at-home beauty devices worth their cost?

There really is no short answer for this. If you require

more dramatic results, but barely have enough time
to make it to your dermatologist’s office, at-home
beauty devices can be godsends. Aside from saving
you time and money in the long run, some of them
can actually make the rest of your skin care products
much more effective. “The science behind most of
these at-home devices is the same science that we
use for the in-office devices,” shares Dr. Magovern.
“They have much less power, but it’s the same sci-
ence. If you’re motivated and think you would use
it regularly, give it a try. That’s the key: You have to
really use it.”

Utilizing some of the most sophisticated technol-

ogies—from sonic pulsations to light therapy to
microcurrent energy—these next-gen gadgets will
surely change your beauty game. The problem lies
in deciphering the technical information. To give

45
Deep-Cleansing Devices Glow-Enhancing Devices
Cleansing brushes were originally developed for skin For those with minor skin issues who are simply look-
care professionals for in-office treatments. It didn’t ing for a way to boost their complexion, microderm-
take long before consumers caught up and started abrasion devices might work for you. Microderm-
seeing the benefits of using brush heads that rotate or abrasion is a popular cosmetic exfoliating treatment
vibrate at very high speeds. When used as directed, that uses tiny exfoliating crystals to resurface the skin.
these brushes remove dirt and oil from your pores “Microdermabrasion is a wonderful, simple,
while sloughing off dead skin cells—something you no-downtime procedure for anyone who may be
won’t be able to achieve with your regular cleanser looking to brighten a dull complexion,” explains Dr.
and hands alone. And because of their pulsating Magovern. “It has been shown to improve rough-
action, some at more than 300 times per second, ness, mottled pigmentation and the overall appear-
they cover more ground than what the bristles (or ance of the skin. Furthermore, it helps to increase
your fingertips) can actually touch. transdermal delivery of topically applied products,
which means that it will enable your skin care prod-
Anti-Aging Devices ucts to work better. My patients love it because it
Most of the recommended anti-aging devices on gives their skin a glow and smoothness they didn’t
the market right now utilize laser or light energy. have walking in the door.”
At-home laser devices can be useful for someone
bothered by fine lines, wrinkles and loss of elastici-
ty. How? “Some devices, like the Tria Age-Defying
Laser, work by using laser energy to heat the skin
in a safe, controlled way,” explains Dr. Magovern.
“This stimulates collagen production, which leads to
improvement of fine lines and wrinkles and firmer,
brighter and more youthful-looking skin.”

LED (or light-emitting diode) therapy devices are

also gaining momentum. Unlike lasers, LEDs come
in different-color wavelengths. Red light, which was
initially used in wound-healing, has been shown
to reduce inflammation and increase cellular me-
tabolism, stimulating the formation of new collagen
and elastin. Blue light, on the other hand, has been
shown to be more effective at treating acne.

Microcurrent treatments use low-level electrical

currents to stimulate facial muscles, causing them
to contract, while triggering the body to produce
adenosine triphosphate (ATP), the energy that fuels all
biochemical functions in the body, including collagen
and elastin synthesis.

46
 SKIN
TOP10
CARE DEVICES
BY DERMSTORE

1. Clarisonic 6. NuFACE
Mia Sonic Skin Trinity Facial Toning
Cleansing System Device - White

2. PMD Personal
MicroDerm 7. Riiviva
Personal MicroDerm Microderm Kit
Microdermabrasion System

3. LightStim 8. Trophy Skin

For Wrinkles Microderm MD
Diamond Peeling

4. ReFa 9. Clarisonic
Platinum Electronic Opal Sonic Infusion System
Roller ReFa CARAT

5. FOREO 10. Baby Quasar

Luna Mini - Magenta Plus Light Therapy Device

47
 C H A P T E R 10
Glowing From Within

You are what you eat. You’ve heard the saying time We’ve already discussed how free radicals damage
and time again, but it takes on a special meaning healthy cells and how antioxidants can help. But
when you consider the impact a proper diet can aside from free radical protection, antioxidants are
have on your skin. “We consider what we put on our also essential for the skin’s structural integrity, growth
skin to keep it healthy and youthful—sunscreen, mois- and maintenance—so much so that when your body
turizers, toners and the like—but what we put in our lacks enough antioxidants, you’ll notice that your skin
body is important too,” says nutritionist Kelly Plowe. can feel dry and rough, your wrinkles look deeper
and your bruises and sunburns take longer to heal.
Vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids are You could also be more prone to eczema, psoriasis
responsible for your skin’s ability to keep itself mois- and dandruff.
turized, heal wounds and repair damage, control
inflammation and ward off bacteria. When you GOOD SOURCES OF ANTIOXIDANTS: green leafy
don’t get enough of these nutrients from the food you vegetables, citrus, berries and other brightly colored
eat, it shows on your skin, sometimes in the form of fruits
dry skin, rashes, acne breakouts and pale or ashy
skin tones. You may also become more prone to sun 2. B VITAMIN COMPLEX
damage, which, as we’ve mentioned earlier, causes Thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, B-6, B-12, folate, pan-
90 percent of visible signs of aging. tothenate, PABA, inositol, biotin and choline are all
B vitamins. In plants and animals, they are always
So how do you know you’re getting all the nutrients found together, and, likewise, the body uses them
you need for healthy glowing skin? Here’s what most in conjunction with each other. Because these vita-
experts recommend: Eat a varied and balanced diet mins aid in cell growth, they are essential for wound
of whole foods consisting of 40 to 60 percent com- healing (sunburns, bruises, infections and acne). They
plex carbohydrates, 20 to 30 percent lean protein also boost metabolism and circulation, which con-
and 10 to 20 percent mono- and polyunsaturated sequently slows down premature aging. B vitamin
fats. This will give your skin most of what it needs to deficiencies can result in eczema, pale complexion,
run efficiently. You’ll also need to load up on these dandruff, pigmentation issues and skin lesions.
seven essential nutrients.
GOOD SOURCES OF B VITAMIN COMPLEX : fish,
beans and poultry.
7 Nutrients Your Skin Needs
1. ANTIOXIDANTS (VITAMINS A, C AND E)

48
3. VITAMIN D GOOD SOURCES OF MINERALS: seeds, nuts, mush-
Both a vitamin and a hormone, vitamin D is helpful in rooms, kelp, certain fruits and vegetables
the treatment of psoriasis and inflammation. Vitamin
D deficiencies result in a lack of vitality in skin tone 5. ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS
and texture. Essential fatty acids, found in mono- and polyunsatu-
rated fats, are equally essential to beautiful skin. Un-
GOOD SOURCES OF VITAMIN D: sunlight, fatty fish,
fortunately, your body cannot manufacture them, so
fortified milk and orange juice
they must be obtained from food and supplements.
Omega-3 fatty acids—found in fatty fish like wild
Alaskan salmon, Atlantic mackerel and arctic char—
By the time we reach soften skin and aid in healing eczema, psoriasis and
middle age our bodies’ wounds. They also balance sebum production in the
skin. Internally, they increase HDL (good) cholesterol.
water content can be Meanwhile, omega-6 fatty acids, also known as
gamma linolenic acid, keep skin moisturized.
as low as 50 percent.
GOOD SOURCES OF ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS: fatty
fish, flaxseed, walnuts, soybeans and tofu

6. FIBER
Fiber helps your body flush toxins and other unnec-
essary baggage. Fiber also helps lower LDL (bad)
cholesterol levels. Cholesterol problems often be-
come visible as yellow bumps on the skin above or
below the eyes.
GOOD SOURCES OF FIBER: whole grains, vegetables,
oatmeal and nuts

7. WATER
Water may not be the first thing that pops into your
head when you think of anti-aging skin care, but trust
us, water plays a major role. Have you ever noticed
how your skin looks dry, dull and flaky when you’re
dehydrated? You may also notice that fine lines and
wrinkles become more prominent. “As we age, our
4. MINERALS cells tend to have weaker membranes that can’t opti-
Minerals also play an integral role in your complex- mally regulate the amount of water held inside each
ion. Iodine, for one, aids in healing skin infections by cell,” explains explains board-certified dermatologist
increasing oxygen consumption and the metabolic Howard Murad. “As evidence of the progress from
rate of the skin. Silicon aids in collagen formation. hydration to dehydration, consider the fact that when
Zinc aids in wound healing and skin rejuvenation by we are babies approximately 75 percent of our bod-
promoting cell growth and boosting immunity. Com- ies are water. By the time we reach middle age our
bined with vitamins A and B, it helps in the treatment bodies’ water content can be as low as 50 percent.
of acne. Zinc is also an important mineral And as with almost every change in overall health,
for hair growth.

49
age-related changes in hydration are evident when weigh 140 pounds, you should drink about 70
we examine our skin. While children rarely need ounces of water—that’s about 8.75 glasses of
a moisturizer, it seems no one over 30 can water a day. Of course, this will vary according to
live without it.” how much you exercise and perspire. Another way
to monitor whether you’re adequately hydrated is
So how much water do you really need on a daily to check your urine color. Light yellow, like the color
basis? Here’s an easy formula to remember: The of lemonade, means you’re getting an adequate
amount of water you drink in ounces should be amount. Dark yellow, like the color of apple juice,
about half your weight in pounds. So if you means trouble.

Skin Care Supplements

Nourishing our bodies on a cellular level is the key the daily requirements or recommendations for all the
behind radiant, youthful-looking skin, and the most nutrients our bodies need. This is where nutritional
effective way to do that is by eating a well-balanced supplements can help. Keep reading to see which
diet. Unfortunately, a great majority of us don’t get nutritional supplements DermStore shoppers prefer.

50
 TOP10 SUPPLEMENTS
BY DERMSTORE

1. Heliocare 6. jane iredale

Daily Use Antioxidant Skin Accumax Starter Pack
Formula

2. VitaMedica 7. Perricone MD
Anti-Aging Formula - Skin Clear Supplements
Daily Packs

8. Osmosis Pur
3. Elon Medical Skincare
Matrix Plus Elevate - ATP and
DNA Repair

4. Phyto 9. Sanitas Skincare

Phytophanere Dietary Complexion Clear
Supplement

5. Murad 10. David Kirsch

Pure Skin Clarifying Wellness
Dietary Supplement A.M. Daily Detox - Grape

51
5 Unlikely Foods
(and Drinks) That Slow
Down Aging Skin
1. EGG YOLK
For those who refuse to eat the yolk in their sunny-side
ups, this might change your mind. “Egg yolks are rich in
lutein, which protects skin from sun damage,” says Kelly
Plowe, M.S., RD.

2. POMEGRANATE
“They’re a favorite of one of my mentors, Dr. Murad,
who educated me on the power of ellagic acid, another
source of polyphenols and a potent antioxidant found in
the fruit,” Dr. Magovern remarked.

3. TOMATO AND GRAPEFRUIT

According to Plowe, these juicy fruits are loaded with
lycopene, which, like lutein, helps protect skin from sun
damage.

4. COFFEE
“Yes, a 2015 study in more than 130 women found that
drinking coffee may help protect the skin from aging and
that the polyphenols, which are found in coffee, may help
to reduce skin hyperpigmentation,” says Plowe.

5. GREEN TEA
It’s another antioxidant that can help prevent and reverse
the signs of aging and maybe even help prevent certain
skin cancers. “Studies show that you need to drink a lot
of it in order for it to make a positive effect on your skin,”
says Dr. Magovern. “But the science and research backs
its benefits.”
 Acknowledgments

We would like to thank all the skin care experts Teresa Stenzel, Director of Education, Bioelements
quoted on this guide, particularly:
Fayne L. Frey, Board Certified Dermatologist and
Richard Chaffoo, M.D., FACS, FICS, Triple Board Founder of FryFace.com
Certified Plastic Surgeon, La Jolla Plastic Surgery &
Dermatology Purvisha Patel, Board Certified Dermatologist,
Advanced Dermatology & Skin Cancer Associates
Gary Goldfaden, M.D., Board Certified
Dermatologist and Creator of GOLDFADEN MD David Bank, M.D., Board Certified Dermatologist
and Director, The Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic
Rebecca Booth, M.D., Board Certified Obstetrician & Laser Surgery
and Gynecologist and Co-Founder of VENeffect
Stafford Broumand, M.D., FACS, Board Certified
Whitney Bowe, M.D., Board Certified Plastic Surgeon
Dermatologist, Advanced Dermatology, P.C.
Haleh Bakshandeh, M.D., Board Certified
Rebecca Kazin, M.D., Board Certified Dermatologist
Dermatologist, Washington Institute of Dermatologic
Laser Surgery and the Johns Hopkins Department of Howard Murad, M.D., Board Certified
Dermatology Dermatologist, President of Murad® Skin Care and
Founder of the Inclusive Health® Movement
Kathleen Funk, Cosmetic Acupuncturist and
Herbalist, Acufunkture Kelly Plowe, M.S., RD, CSSD
Sandra Kopp, M.D., Board Certified Dermatologist,
Schweiger Dermatology Group

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