15” Instruction

Dovetail Jig Manual

Part # 3452

CAUTION:
Please read, understand, and follow all manufacturers instructions, guidelines and owners manuals that
come with your power tools. Peachtree Woodworking Inc. and its subsidiaries assume no liability for ac-
cidents or injuries caused by improper use of this product.
B
© Copyright Peachtree Woodworking Inc. 10/2008. All images, copy, and graphics are copyrighted by law and may not be copied, or reproduced without our express written consent.
 Peachtree 15” Dovetail System Instructions
Introduction
Peachtree 15” dovetail system takes a simple approach to making beautiful thru-dovetail’s, a hallmark of fine craftsmanship.
The hardest part about cutting dovetails is marking and cutting the matching angles to one another. That’s what makes this
system so easy. We have done the math for you and milled the exact cuts that need to be made in this heavy duty and easy
to use jig. The Peachtree dovetail system works with precision bearing guides on the shank of the router instead of using
those hard to center brass bushing guides that are available for most routers. Because the bearing is already centered on the
bit it makes setting up to cut the joint fast and easy. We have milled the template to match the bearing size so that the bit is
perfectly centered and there is no slop, no wear and no waste. Unlike other templates you have seen, our jig will work with
two different thickness stock as well as two different widths. This means the type of projects you can create are endless. Lets
get started making some joints.
But first - let’s talk about safety.
Read and follow all safety instructions
Caution:
Please read, understand and follow all manufacturers instructions, guidelines and owners manuals that come with
your power tools. Peachtree Woodworking Supply Inc. and its subsidiaries assume no liability for accidents or
injuries caused by improper use of this product.
Safety Tips
Creating dovetails that look like they have been hand cut will add curb appeal or distinction to any of your projects.
To get the best performance and results out of your dovetail jig, we recommend the following tips:
1. Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection and dress properly. No loose clothing, hair, draw strings
or jewelry that might get caught in moving parts.
2. Keep work area clean. Messy work areas invite injuries.
3. Make deeper or larger cuts in multiple passes and NEVER use dull cutters. Forcing a deep cut in one
pass or using a dull cutter can result in injury. Inspect cutters for damage or chips in carbide.
4. Make sure router bit is properly installed in router and do not exceed the recommended rpm
5. Keep all safety guards in place.
6. Always unplug your tools before changing cutters
7. Secure you work. Always use at least two clamps to hold your stock to the jig. Make sure the clamps do
not interfere with the cutters on the under side of the jig.
8. Make sure the jig is clean with no build up or debris for smooth operation.
9. Make sure the bearing on the cutter is spinning freely. If not spinning freely it may damage the jig. Keep
bearing clean and well lubed with bearing lubrication.
10. Follow all manufacturer safety guidelines provided with you router.

15” Dovetail Package Contents

1. 15” Aluminum Dovetail Jig
2. 7° Dovetail Bit
3. Straight Router Bit
3
2

B
 Mounting The Dovetail Jig
Cut a Sample Joint
Prepare the mounting block (Not Included):
The 15” Dovetail Jig is mounted to a piece of stock Before making a “live” cut on your project you will
(mounting block) that acts as a clamping surface for the need to make a sample cut to test the accuracy of the fit.
work-piece. This will also prevent tear-out on the back Follow instructions in the next section on how to make
side of your stock when you cut your joints. It it essen- the tail cut and pin cut for your sample joint. When
tial that the mounting block is accurately machined so cutting a sample joint, it is important that the stock
it is 90° to the dovetail jig. It can be made from a solid thickness is the same thickness as your project stock.
block or laminated. The block needs to be 2-1/4’’ thick The standard bit set that came with your jig is capable
x 3-1/2’’high x 18’’ long for use with standard router of cutting 1/2” to 3/4” stock. There are two other bit
bits. For different size dovetails we recommend you sets available for your dovetail jig. One bit set will do
change your mounting block to provide solid, continu- 1/4” to 1/2” stock and the other set will do 1/8” to 3/8”.
ous support when your bit passes through the back of
your stock.
Mount the Jig to Mounting Block:
The first thing you need to do to start using your
Peachtree Dovetail jig is mount the jig to the mounting
block. The 15” Dovetail Jig has four elongated holes
to attach the jig to the mounting block. There are two Cutting The Tails
scribed lines that run across the underside and the top
side of the dovetail jig on the pin side of the jig itself Making the Tail Cut:
(Fig. 1). The inside line (toward the center of jig) is Always start your projects by cutting the tail side first.
used to line up the mounting block when using the The reason for this is, the tail cut side of the joint is not
standard router bit set for cutting dovetails in 1/2” to able to be adjusted. This makes the joint very accurate
3/4” stock. The outside line is used to line up a wider because we are working off of the angles of the dove-
mounting block or spacer block when using the smaller tail router bit. It is the pin side of the joint that can be
router bit set for cutting dovetails in 1/8” to 3/8” stock. adjusted to fit the tail cut of the joint.
Match this line to the top edge of the mounting block, it 1. Secure stock to Jig
is important that the scribed line on the template jig and A. Prepare the stock to be dovetailed by joining all
the stock are parallel. Drill through the four holes and four edges followed by cutting the ends square.
insert the screws into the middle of the elongated holes. With the Peachtree Dovetail Jig you can use one
Tighten securely. The 15” Dovetail Jig can be used thickness stock for the tail cut and a different
either in an upright position locked in a vise or inverted thickness stock for you pin cut.
onto a router table when working with shorter stock. B. Clamp your stock to be dovetailed vertically into
you workbench vise. Fig 2
Fig.1
Pin Side Tail Side

Fig.2
Top
Scribe Lines

Bottom
Scribe Lines
C. Place the mounted dovetail jig (tail side) on the
end of stock. Position the jig, so that there are Fig.5
equal distances on either side of the jig. Make
sure dovetail jig rest’s flat on the tail stock and
secure in place with F-clamps or C-clamps. To
achieve an exact centered joint, mark the center
of your stock, See Fig. 3, then measure
5/16” to one side of the center mark and scribe
a second line with a pencil. Position the inside
edge of one of the tail side openings exactly with
the second scribed line See Fig. 4. Secure in place
with F-clamps or C-clamps. This method will give
equal spacing of your tails on either side of your
E. Place the dovetail router bit with bearing guide
stock.
into your router and secure router bit collet

tightly. Adjust the base of your router for depth
of cut by adding the thickness of the pin stock
Fig.3 piece plus 1/2” for the thickness of the dove
tail jig. If desired, add an additional 1/32” or
more for sanding the edge perfectly flush
after assembly of joint. Another way of
setting your bit height is to place your pin side
stock on top of the jig. Place the router
with bit on top of stock, with bit hanging over
edge between the fingers of the jig. Now lower
Fig. 6 router bit until it touches the top of the tail
the
stock and then secure router bit in place.
See Fig. 6

Fig.6

Fig.4

Pin Stock
Dovetail Jig

Tail Stock Align Bit Flush

Caution:
Make sure bearing contacts dovetail jig by at least
1/8” or more before starting cut. If bearing does not
contact jig properly it may result in injury or damaging
Caution:
the dovetail jig. See Fig.7. In order cut dovetails into
Make sure when clamping your stock to the jig your
thinner stock, you must use optional router bits which
clamp heads are not in the path of the router bit.
are sold separately.
See Fig.5

 Caution:
Fig.7 To prevent damaging your dovetail jig while router is
turned on - Do not tip the router, always keep the router
flat on jig. Do not lift the router up between the fingers
while router is on. When routering of joint is complete,
turn router off and wait for bit to come to a complete
stop before removing router off of the dovetail jig. Do
not force the router bit, or cut to fast, as this may result
in tear-out, splintering of the stock or even loss of con-
trol. Moving the router to slow could result in burning
of your stock. Feed the router bit into the stock smooth
and controllable rate.

Completed Tail Cut:

Your completed tail cut stock should look like the pho-
tograph shown below in Fig. 9
F. (Always wear eye protection) Cut your stock
standing behind mounting block. See Fig. 8. This
will allow you to pull the router towards you Fig.9
while making the cut, giving you a smoother,
more controllable cut. This also will keep the
wood chips directed away from you. Place your
router flat on top of the dovetail jig surface with
the bit in between one of the openings. Be sure
the cutter is not contacting the wood surface be-
fore turning your router on. Holding the router
firmly, turn it on, and guide the bearing and router
bit through each of the tail side openings, pulling
the router all the way back to each of the tail slots,
See Fig. 8.

Fig.8

When Stock is Wider Than Dovetail Jig:

When the stock is wider than the jig, cut all of your
tails, then scribe the outline of the last tail opening
on the right side of the jig before un-clamping. Once
scribed, un-clamp jig, slide the jig to the right, aligning
the last tail opening on the left side of the jig with the
scribed lines. Repeat this process for the entire width of
you stock.
 Cutting The Pins D. Place the mounted dovetail jig (pin side) on the
end of stock. Position the jig, so that the two
Making the Pin Cut: edges of one of the pins line up with the two
Pin cuts are always made after cutting the tails. The scribed lines. Note: the angles that you marked
reason for this is, you will use the tail to cuts to lay with your scribing tool for your dovetail open-
out the positioning of the pins of your joint. ing will match both side edges of one pin on
1. Secure stock to Jig your dovetail jig. See Fig.12. Make sure dove
A. Prepare the stock to be dovetailed by joining all tail jig rest’s flat on the pin stock and secure in
four edges followed by cutting the ends square. place with F-clamps or C-clamps. You will be
With the Peachtree Dovetail Jig you can use one removing the stock that is exposed between the
thickness stock for the pin cut and a different pin openings of the dovetail jig using the straight
thickness stock for you tail cut. router bit.
B. Clamp your stock to be dovetailed vertically into
you workbench vise. Fig 10 Fig.12

Fig.10

Caution:
Make sure when clamping your stock to the jig your
clamp heads are not in the path of the router bit.
See Fig.13

C. To mark the location of the pins you will use Fig.13
the tail stock piece you just cut as marking guide.
Position the tail stock on top of the pin board in
the correct right angle position See Fig. 11 . Make
sure all three edges line up flush with the pin
board (piece to be cut). Using a utility knife,
scribing knife or a fine tipped pencil mark
the location of one dovetail opening on the end
grain of the pin board.

Fig.11 E. Place the straight router bit with bearing guide

into your router and secure router bit collet
tightly. Adjust the base of your router for
depth of cut by adding the thickness of the tail
stock piece plus 1/2” for the thickness of the
dovetail jig. If desired, add an additional 1/32” or
more for sanding the edge perfectly flush after
assembly of joint. Another way of setting your bit
height is to place your tail side stock on top of the
jig. Place the router with bit on top of stock, with
bit hanging over edge between the fingers of the
jig. Now lower the router bit until it touches the
top of the pin stock and then secure router bit in
place. See Fig. 14
 Fig.14 Fig.16

Tail Stock
Dovetail Jig
Align Bit Flush
Pin Stock

Caution:
Make sure bearing contacts dovetail jig by at least 1/8” Caution:
or more before starting cut. If bearing does not contact To prevent damaging your dovetail jig while router is
jig properly it may result in injury or damaging the turned on - Do not tip the router, always keep the router
dovetail jig. See Fig.15. In order cut dovetails into thin- flat on jig. Do not lift the router up between the fingers
ner stock, you must use optional router bits which are while router is on. When routering of joint is complete,
sold separately. turn router off and wait for bit to come to a complete
stop before removing router off of the dovetail jig. Do
Fig.15 not force the router bit, or cut to fast, as this may result
in tear-out, splintering of the stock or even loss of con-
trol. Moving the router to slow could result in burning
of your stock. Feed the router bit into the stock smooth
and controllable rate.
Completed Pin Cut:
Your completed pin cut stock should look like the pho-
tograph shown below in Fig. 17

Fig.17
F. (Always wear eye protection) Cut your stock
standing behind mounting block. See Fig. 16.
This will allow you to pull the router towards
you while making the cut, giving you a smooth
er, more controllable cut. This also will keep the
wood chips directed away from you. Place your
router flat on top of the dovetail jig surface with
the bit in between one of the openings. Be sure
the cutter is not contacting the wood surface
before turning your router on. Holding the router
firmly, turn it on, start by taking very light pass
across the face of your pin stock. This step pre
vents chipping or tear-out of the stock. Proceed to
guide the bearing and router bit along the edge When Stock is Wider Than Dovetail Jig:
of each of the pin side openings of the dove When the stock is wider than the jig, cut all of your
tail jig. Pulling the router all the way back to pins, then scribe the outline of the last pin opening
each of the pin slots removing the stock down on the right side of the jig before un-clamping. Once
to the scribed lines, See Fig.16 On wood that scribed, un-clamp jig, slide the jig to the right, aligning
tends to easily chip, a thin light pass from the face the last pin opening on the left side of the jig with the
of the stock to the back of the dovetail jig will ` scribed lines. Repeat this process for the entire width of
help eliminate tear-out. you stock.
Assemble the Dovetail Joints:
Assemble the pin-board and the tail-board. The Joint Fig.19
should have a snug - sliding fit as shown in Fig. 18.
If you have to force the joint together with a mallet, it
may result in splitting the dovetailed sockets, as well as
forcing the glue out of the joint. To loose of a fit, may
produce wobbling and a week dovetail joint. If you
have added the extra 1/32” or more to your joint, it can Tap jig
now be cleaned up by sanding the joint flush after glu-
ing. If satisfied with the fit of your dovetail joint - glue,
clamp and finish your project. If the dovetails are in
need of adjustment, this is done on the pin side of the Please Note:
dovetail jig (follow steps below). The tail side or of the When making test cuts it is important that your test
joint remains the same. stock is exactly the same size thickness as your project
stock. Each time you change the thickness of your stock,
you must adjust the dovetail jig accordingly.
If joints are to tight:
You will need to make the joint looser by making the
pins smaller, slightly loosen the 4 screws that hold
Fig.18 the dovetail jig to the mounting block, just enough to
be able to tap the jig backward with a wooden mallet
or scrap block of wood (do not use a metal hammer
directly on jig as it may damage the dovetail jig). Tap
the dovetail jig backward on the mounting block. The
distance of this adjustment usually is made in .001” de-
pending upon how tight the joint is. Start out by tapping
the dovetail jig backward on the block .002”. See Fig.
20. This means that each pin size is decreased by .004”
smaller (.002” on each side of the pin = .004”). Make
sure your adjustment remains parallel across the dove-
tail jig to the mounting block. Once adjustment is made,
tighten four screws and repeat cutting process with dif-
ferent piece of stock until you obtain desired fit.

If Joints Are To Loose: Fig.20

You will need to make the joint tighter, by making
the pins larger, lightly loosen the 4 screws that hold
the dovetail jig to the mounting block, just enough to
be able to tap the jig forward with a wooden mallet
or scrap block of wood (do not use a metal hammer Tap jig
directly on jig as it may damage the dovetail jig). Tap
the dovetail jig forward on the mounting block. The
distance of this adjustment usually is made in .001”
depending upon how loose the joint is. Start out by
tapping the dovetail jig forward on the block .002” See
Fig. 19. This means that each pin size is increased by
.004” wider (.002” on each side of the pin = .004”).
Please Note:
When making test cuts it is important that your test
Make sure your adjustment remains parallel across
stock is exactly the same size thickness as your project
the dovetail jig to the mounting block. Once adjusted,
stock. Each time you change the thickness of your stock,
tighten the four screws - repeat cutting process with dif-
you must adjust the dovetail jig accordingly.
ferent piece of stock until you obtain the desired fit.
 Various Dovetail Jig Uses Cutting stock thickness; 1/4” to 1/2”:
Optional router bits for cutting 1/4”
to 1/2” stock. We have designed two
Using your dovetail jig on a router table: shorter router bits that are the exact
To use your Peachtree dovetail jig on a router table, same finished profile as the standard
you will follow the exact same directions as detailed in bits that came with the dovetail jig. Item # 3454
this instruction manual, with an exception. You do not When using these bits, you will not
clamp your stock into your work bench vise. Once the have make any adjustments to the jig. The only adjust-
stock is clamped into your jig you will then flip the jig ment that is made is for the thickness stock we are
with stock up-side down to be run on your router table. cutting. Use the two bits together, or use one of these
(See Fig. 21) bits in conjunction with one of the standard bits when
cutting two different thickness stocks as shown in ex-
Fig.21 ample below (See Fig. 23). Keep in mind, when setting
up for this type of cut, you would set the bit up for the
opposing stock thickness. We used the standard dovetail
bit that came with the dovetail jig to cut the tails and we
used the straight bit from the 1/4” to 1/2” set to cut the
shorter pins.

Fig.23

3/4” thick 1/2” thick

Thinner stock using “standard” bits:
You are able to do thinner stock using the bits that came
with your set, leaving a larger amount of cut-off waste.
Since the bearing of the bit must ride in the template by
1/8” or more, the standard bits will leave larger waste to
be removed once the joint is complete. See (Fig. 22)

Fig.22
This joint shows 1/2” thick stock for the tails and 3/4”
stock for the pins.
Please Note:
When cutting with the optional router bits, follow the
all the instructions previously outlined in this manual.
Make necessary adjustment for thinner stock pieces.

Cutting stock thickness; 1/8” to 3/8”:

Optional router bits for cutting 1/8”
Caution: to 3/8” stock. We have designed two
Make sure bearing contacts dovetail jig by at least smaller router bits that work from the
1/8” or more before starting cut. If bearing does not second scribe line on your dovetail
contact jig properly it may result in injury or damag- jig. In order to use these bits, you Item # 3457
ing the dovetail jig. See Fig.15. In order cut dovetails must either attach a 3/8” spacer fence
into thinner stock, you must use optional router bits on you current mounting block or make a wider mount-
which are sold separately. ing block.
Prepare The Mounting Block Thinner Stock:
In order to cut thinner stock, you must make the pins Fig.25
smaller. This is achieved by adding a 3/8” spacer (made
out of MDF or solid wood) to the face of your mount-
ing block (Fig. 24) not included. You can also achieve
this by making a thicker mounting block - not included.
It it essential that the mounting block is accurately
machined so it is 90° to the dovetail jig. It can be made
from a solid block or laminated. The block needs to be
2-5/8’’ thick x 3-1/2’’high x 18’’ long. For different size
dovetails we recommend you change your mounting
block to provide solid, continuous support when your
bit passes through the back of your stock.
Outer Wider
Scribe Lines Mounting Block

Fig.24 Once you have mounted your dovetail jig to the wider
block, you will be able to use the bit set that cuts from
1/8” to 3/8” stock. These router bits can only be used
in conjunction with each other since they work off of a
smaller section of the dovetail jig.
Please Note:
When cutting with the optional router bits, follow the
all the instructions previously outlined in this manual.
Make necessary adjustment for thinner stock pieces.

Creating Angled Dovetails

3/8” spacer

Outer
Scribe Lines
Angled Dovetails:
Cutting angled dovetails is done the same way you
would do 90° dovetails. In this example we have a cut
22½° angle on our tail cut. Follow the instructions pre-
viously outlined in this manual to center the stock, then
Mount The Jig To A Thicker Mounting Block: clamp your jig to the stock and make the cut. Make sure
Mount the thicker block to the dovetail jig the exact you position the jig to have at least 1/4” of stock on the
same way that it was outlined in the beginning of the outer tail. See (Fig. 26)
instruction manual. There are two scribed lines that run
across the underside and the top side of the dovetail jig
on the pin side of the jig itself (Fig. 25). The outside Fig.26
line is used to line up the mounting block or spacer
block when using the smaller router bit set for cutting
dovetails in 1/8” to 3/8” stock. Match this line to the
top edge of the mounting block, it is important that the
scribed line on the template jig and the stock are paral-
lel. Drill through the four holes and insert the screws
into the middle of the elongated holes. Tighten securely.
The 15” Dovetail Jig can be used either in an upright 1/4”
minimum stock
position locked in a vise or inverted onto a router table
when working with shorter stock.
Completed Angled Tail Cut: Assemble the Angled Dovetail Joints:
Your completed tail cut stock should look like the one Assemble the pin-board and the tail-board. The Joint
shown below. See (Fig. 27) should have a snug - sliding fit as shown in Fig. 30.
If you have to force the joint together with a mallet, it
may result in splitting the dovetailed sockets, as well as
Fig.27 forcing the glue out of the joint. To loose of a fit, may
produce wobbling and a week dovetail joint. If you
have added the extra 1/32” or more to your joint, it can
now be cleaned up by sanding the joint flush after glu-
ing. If satisfied with the fit of your dovetail joint - glue,
clamp and finish your project. If the dovetails are in
need of adjustment, this is done on the pin side of the
dovetail jig (refer previous instruction for joint adjustment).

Fig.30

Making the Pin Cut:

Follow the instructions previously outlined in this
manual to align the stock to the jig, then clamp your jig
to the stock and make the cut. See (Fig. 28)

Fig.28

Please Note:
You can use angled spacing blocks between your stock
and the jig to cut virtually any type of angle from acute
to obtuse. If you can clamp it to the jig you
can dovetail it.
Completed Angled Pin Cut:
Your completed tail cut stock should look like the one
shown below. See (Fig. 29)
Creating Skip Spacing Joints
Fig.29 Skip Spacing Dovetail Joints:
One of the unique features of this system is, you can
skip spaces between the tail cut and pin cut to vary the
size of the joint. You can also make and endless amount
of different widths by making one, cut an then sliding
the jig to one side and make a second cut to vary the
width of the joints. This following example will show
you the skip spacing method.
Please Note:
When using this method you will mark the location of
all the pins on the opposing stock.
Cutting The Tail: Making Pin Cut Locations:
We will be cutting every other tail cut on the jig. Fol- To mark the location of the pins you will use the tail
low the instructions previously outlined in this manual stock piece you just cut as marking guide. Position the
to center the stock, then clamp your jig to the stock and tail stock on top of the pin board in the correct right
make every other tail cut. See (Fig. 31) angle position See Fig. 33 . Make sure all three edges
line up flush with the pin board (piece to be cut). Using
a utility knife, scribing knife or a fine tipped pencil
Fig.29
Fig.31 mark the location of ALL dovetail openings on the end
grain of the pin board.

Fig.33

Completed Skip Spacing Of Tail Cut:

Your completed tail cut stock should look like the one
shown below. See (Fig. 32)

Fig.32

Marking Stock to be Removed:

Once you have marked the locations of your pins, use a
magic marker or pencil to mark the stock to be removed
between the pins. See (Fig. 34)

Fig.34

Making The Pin Cut:

Pin cuts are always made after cutting the tails. The
reason for this is, you will use the tail cuts to layout the
positioning of the pins of your joint. You will follow the
instructions previously outlined in this manual to align
the stock to the jig with one exception; you must mark
all of the pin locations on the stock to be cut.
Stock removal of pin cuts: Make The Cut:
Follow the instructions previously outlined in this When making the cut, be sure to only remove the stock
manual to align the stock to the jig for the pin cut, then that has been marked. See (Fig. 37)
clamp your jig to the stock, set your bit height and
make the cut. The first pass you will remove the stock Fig.37
in every pin cut opening. Your completed pin cut should
look like Fig. 35. Take note, the pins that still have the
magic marker on them need to be removed. You can use
your band saw or a hand saw to remove them, or follow
instructions below on how to use your dovetail jig to
remove the excess pin material.

Fig.35 Stock
to be removed

After making the cut, remove the jig - and your stock
should look like this, See (Fig. 38). Note, there will be
a small piece of the pin left that needs to be removed.

Fig.38

Removing Excess Pins:

Slide the jig to the Left and align the jig so that the back
edge of the fingers rest on part of the pins See (Fig. 36),
then clamp your jig to the stock. Note that we will be
removing the stock that still has the markings on it.

Fig.36
Removing Excess Pins:
Slide the jig to the Right and align the jig so the back
edge of the fingers rest on part of the pins See (Fig. 39),
then clamp your jig to the stock. Note that we will be
removing the stock that still has the markings on it.

Stock to be removed
Fig.39

Please Note:
The Dovetail jig must rest flat on part of the pins to
Stock to
maintain the correct depth of cut, which will provide a be removed
stable work surface.
Make The Cut: Assemble the Skip Spacing Joint:
When making the cut, be sure to only remove the stock Assemble the pin-board and the tail-board. The Joint
that has been marked. See (Fig. 40) should have a snug - sliding fit as shown in Fig. 42.
If you have to force the joint together with a mallet, it
may result in splitting the dovetailed sockets, as well as
Fig.40 forcing the glue out of the joint. To loose of a fit, may
produce wobbling and a week dovetail joint. If you
have added the extra 1/32” or more to your joint, it can
now be cleaned up by sanding the joint flush after glu-
ing. If satisfied with the fit of your dovetail joint - glue,
clamp and finish your project. If the dovetails are in
need of adjustment, this is done on the pin side of the
dovetail jig (refer previous instruction for joint adjustment).

Stock to be removed

Please Note:
The Dovetail jig must rest flat on part of the pins to
Fig. 42
maintain the correct depth of cut, which will provide a
stable work surface.
Completed Skip Spacing of Pin Cut:
Your completed tail cut stock should look like the one
shown below. See (Fig. 41)

Fig.41

This method of skip spacing has an endless amount of

possibilities when making your projects. It is up to you
as to which socket to skip. You can cut one, skip one,
cut one, skip one, or cut two, skip one, cut two - simply
mix it up. You will also use this same basic principal to
slide the jig one side to make wider pins and tails.
Please Note:
When using either method of skip spacing or slide spac-
ing, the jig must rest flat on part of the pins to maintain
the correct depth, which will provide a stable work
surface.
 Create Box or Hinge Joints Assemble the Box Joint
The Joint should have a snug - sliding fit. If you have
Box Joints / Hinge Joint: to force the joint together with a mallet, it may result
Your Dovetail Jig is capable of doing in splitting the stock, as well as forcing the glue out of
box joints in stock from 1/2” to 3/4” the joint. If you have added the extra 1/16” or more to
thick, using the tail side of the jig only your joint, it can now be cleaned up by sanding the joint
with an optional box-joint router bit flush after gluing. If satisfied with the fit of your box
and bearing. The fingers will be spaced Item # 3456 joint - glue, clamp and finish your project. We have de-
9/16” on center. cided to make our version into a moveable hinge joint.
To do this we have rounded over both sides of the stock
Cutting the joint: with a 3/8” roundover router bit prior to cutting the
Install your box joint bit into your router and secure in
stock. Once the joint was complete, we drilled a 3/8”
place. To line up your dovetail jig for making the cut,
hole down the length of the joint and inserted a dowel
first mark the center of your stock to be cut. Measure
rod (See Fig 45).
and mark on each side of the center mark at 5/16”.
Next, align two inside edges of one of the tail side
openings of the jig to those marks (See Fig.1 for tail
side). Clamp your jig in place, adjust the height of the
bit for the stock thickness (previously outlined in this
Fig.45
instruction manual), then make the cut. See (Fig. 43)

Fig.43

C Drill and insert dowel rod

Align inside edge of

jig to marks

Opposing Joint Cut:

To line up your dovetail jig for making the opposing
cut, mark the center of your stock to be cut. Measure
and mark on each side of the center mark at 1/4”. Next,
align two outside edges of one of the tail side fingers
of the jig to those marks. Clamp your jig in place, then
make the cut. See (Fig. 44) The Peachtree Dovetail Jig
The Peachtree Dovetail Jig is one of the most versatile
jigs available. In this manual we have outlined several
Fig.44 different types of joints as well as thickness stock that
can be made. The possibilities that can be applied are
virtually endless. Thank you for your purchase and we
hope you enjoy your brand new Peachtree Dovetail Jig!

C
For accessory router bits, visit us online at
Align outside edge of www.ptreeusa.com or call us toll free at:
jig to marks
1-888-512-9069