Understanding Apparel Quality

Topic – Inspection of a garment

Submitted by: -
Prince (BFT/18/513)
The purchasing company is who determinates the list of defects and their
importance. Either in a specific document (“Classification of Garment Defects “)
or including it in the Quality Manual.
The document Classification of Garment Defects consists of:
• A list of all the penalized defects according to the area where it is located.
• Illustrative photographs of the defects.
• Graphics identifying the importance of the garment areas.

The defects list

The defects list contains all the defects that may occur during garments
production. In addition to each defect is assigned its level of importance
depending on the position in which it is located
This means that the same defect would be more or less important, depending
on how visible it is on the garment. The areas of a garment is divided into three
categories: VISIBLE, LESS VISIBLE, AND NOT VISIBLE, so the level of defects is
established in three categories: Zone A/I (CRITICAL), Zone B/II (MAJOR) & Zone
C/III (MINOR) respectively.
Usually, the defects list is organized according to its type, correspondingly to:
• Fabric
• General appearance of the garment
• Confection
• Finishing, iron
• Labelling
• Packaging
Full sleeve shirt
 Zone A
1. Frayed button-holes

Frayed fibres coming out of the button-holes.

(wearer’s left front panel)
Causes: -
• Incorrect needle
• Blunt needle point
• Blunt knife

Remedies: -
• Use of correct needle
• Check needle point
• Sharpen/replace the knife
2. Oil/Stain

(both on wearer’s right panel and on the button placket of wearer’s left panel)
These are spot defects of oil, rust, grease or other stain found on the fabric
Causes: -
• Improper oiling or greasing of looms
• Oil leakage on needle, feed dog or presser foot
• Ink, food and drinks are spilled on the garment
Remedies: -
• Iron should be regularly checked for dirt/impurities and malfunctions
• Operator cleanliness and discipline
• Organized and clean workplace
• Apply the stain remover, which can get the garment free of stain up to
some extent.
3. Misalignment of plies

Some part of the back panel of collar comes to the upper side and is visible
from the top.
Causes: -
• In-correct stitch line
• Improper seam allowance.
• Poor pressing
Remedies: -
• Seam allowance should be properly taken.
• Material handling of the worker should be good.
• Proper placement of pieces while ironing.
4. Uneven Shape

(for comparison)
Uneven shape can damage both wearability and appearance of a garment.
Causes: -
• Invisible seam line.
• Run off stitch.
• Wrong pattern.
• Improper cutting of the cut panels.
• Stretching of pieces while stitching.
Remedies: -
• Folding might be done in proper way to prevent shape.
• Use minimum pressure in feed dog.
• Operator should not pull fabric during sewing.
• Monitor sewing operators for correct material handling technique.
• Proper allowance shown.
5. Untrimmed thread

Extra thread hanging from the stitch or an embroidery is a defect. It is a very

minor defect but many buyers may assume the clothing cheap if it is present a
major portion of the garment.
Causes: -
• It appears due to improper trimming or finishing.

Remedies: -
• UBT/thread trimmer should be used
• Operator training
• Garments finishing should be checked properly.
6. Tilted pocket

This defect is found when the pocket is tilted to either of the sides. It is a critical
defect as it hampers the appearance of the garment.

Causes: -
• Bad marking for pocket placement.
• Improper folding of seam allowance.

Remedies: -
• Operator experience should be good.
• Folder should be precisely made and checked from time to time.
• Clear marking of the pocket placement.
7. Run-off stitch
It is a defect caused when the needle does not follow the stitch line.
Causes: -
• Improper handling of the material.
• Improper seam line.
• Slippage of plies.
Remedies: -
• Worker should be experienced in material handling.
• Seam lines should be properly visible.
8. Skip Stitch

(Pocket)
A defect in which needle penetrates the fabric but fails to form a loop with the
bobbin thread resulting in no stitch at that point.
Causes: -
• Bobbin hook or looper does not enter thread loops at the correct time
• Thread loop failure caused by incorrect needle size/style for the
particular thread size/type
• Bent needle
• Improper loop formation of thread
Remedies: -
• Check if the needle is aligned correctly and having a proper shape.
• Change the needle size/style
• The presser foot pressure should be checked and readjusted if necessary
• Readjust tensions
9. Joint stitch

When more than one stitch is spliced with one another then create joint stitch.
Causes: -
• Thread breaking.
• Bobbin thread goes empty.
• To cure run off stitch.
Remedies: -
• Good quality sewing thread.
• Proper sewing machine & machine adjustment.
• Observe sewing operators for correct material handling technique.
10. Warp streaks

(collar’s back side)

Stripes running in warp way direction characterized by apparent differences in
shade from the adjoining portions.
Causes: -
• Short, medium and long-term variations in warp and/or uneven spacing
of dents in the reed.
• Mix-up of yarns of different luster, count or blend proportion.
• Faulty drawing-in ends, e.g. double ends, missing ends etc.
• Variations in package and beam dyeing.
Remedies: -
• Improve the quality of warp since normal control exercised on count
variation proves inadequate to prevent streakiness.
• Check the condition of reed.
• Ensure early shed timing and lower warp tension to help lessen the
prominence of streaks in the fabric.
 ZONE B
11. Seam mismatch

(wearer’s right sleeve armpit area)

In this defect the proper enclosure of seam in not obtained.
Causes: -
• Notch mark is not in correct place.
• Pieces become short or long by stretching of fabric.
• Speed of feed dog keeps changing.
• Deviation of stitch line from actual seam line.
Remedies: -
• Proper notch marking.
• Worker experience in material handling where matching of seam is
required.
• Correct presser feet, feed dog and needle should be used.
12. Skip Stitch

(side seam)
A defect in which needle penetrates the fabric but fails to form a loop with the
bobbin thread resulting in no stitch at that point.
Causes: -
• Bobbin hook or looper does not enter thread loops at the correct time
• Thread loop failure caused by incorrect needle size/style for the
particular thread size/type
• Thread loop failure because thread control mechanism is incorrectly set,
thereby leading to thread loop starvation
• Improper loop formation of thread
Remedies: -
• Check if the needle is inserted and aligned correctly
• Change the needle size/style
• Restart and check loop formation
• The presser foot pressure should be checked and readjusted if necessary
• Readjust tensions
13. Open Seam

(Side Seam)
Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread.
Causes: -
• Lack of skill.
• Plies not aligned proper.
• Faulty feed dog.
• Tension of the sewing thread not right.
• Weak thread.
• Improper handling of the parts of garments, improper setting and timing
between needle and looper or hook.
Remedies: -
• Clear markings for stitch line
• Good quality or D-core thread should be used
• Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.
• Worker training
• Threading, SPI and bartak settings should be checked.
• Proper handling of the parts of garments
• Tension should be quantifiable
• Feed dog and hook set timing should be checked periodically
14. Weft Crack

Sleeve
It is a thin place or missing weft across the body of the fabric.
Causes: -
• Loose fitting of reed.
• Lose or worn out crank.
• Loose belt.
• Faulty take up.
• Improper alignment of cone.
Remedies: -
• Every part of the weaving machine should be regularly cheeked and
replaced as per requirement.
15. Seam Puckering

(on side seam)

Seam puckering refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after
laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance.
Causes: -
• Uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing.
• Improper thread tension.
• Wrong sewing thread selection.
• Dimensional instability of the plies of fabric.

Remedies: -
• Feed dog, eyelets and thread guides should be checked regularly for
damages.
• Machine feed mechanism must be better quality.
• Operator training.
• Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should not be fiddled with much.
• UBT/trimmer should be used instead of pulling and breaking thread.
• Needle-thread-fabric combination should be well judged.
• Sewing thread must be selected properly.
16. Warp Streak

Cuff placket
Stripes running in warp way direction characterized by apparent differences in
shade from the adjoining portions.
Causes: -
• Short, medium and long-term variations in warp and/or uneven spacing
of dents in the reed.
• Mix-up of yarns of different luster, count or blend proportion.
• Faulty drawing-in ends, e.g. double ends, missing ends etc.
• Variations in package and beam dyeing.
Remedies: -
• Improve the quality of warp since normal control exercised on count
variation proves inadequate to prevent streakiness.
• Check the condition of reed.
• Ensure early shed timing and lower warp tension to help lessen the
prominence of streaks in the fabric.
17. Uneven shape

Uneven shape can damage both wearability and appearance of a garment.

Causes: -
• Invisible seam line.
• Run off stitch.
• Wrong pattern.
• Improper cutting of the cut panels.
• Stretching of pieces while stitching.
Remedies: -
• Folding might be done in proper way to prevent shape.
• Use minimum pressure in feed dog.
• Operator should not pull fabric during sewing.
• Monitor sewing operators for correct material handling technique.
• Proper allowance shown.
18. Shade Variation

(wearer’s right sleeve)

Shade variation is a common and big problem for the dyeing industries. Lots of
reasons are responsible for the variation of shade in dyeing textile industries.
Causes: -
• Uneven pre-treatment.
• Using chemicals of different composition.
• Improper color dosing.
• Worker’s negligence.
• Fluctuation in power supply of machines.

Remedies: -
• Use standard pre-treatment procedure.
• Dyes and chemicals strength should be regularly checked.
• Shade variation checking under proper lighting.
• Repeating the seam dyeing cycle.
• Worker training.
 Zone C
19. Double crease/Roping

Double crease is where hem is twisted in ropy hem appearance and not lying
flat.
Causes: -
• Uneven feeding of bottom and top layer.
• Pulling the top layer and adjusting in above bottom layer.
Remedies: -
• Before starting stitching operator must check hem is started correctly in
the folder or not.
• Don’t hold back extremely as the seam is being sewn.
• Apply least presser foot pressure.
20. Hole

Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the
other side.
Causes: -
• May be present on the fabric or caused during sewing processes.
• Improper trimming
• Broken needle puncturing the fabric.
• Very stiff & dry yarn
Remedies: -
• Better inspection of fabric and cut piece.
• Use a fabric fault detector.
• Air humidification
• Use of yarn having lower hairiness.
21. Loose Thread

At armpit area
Extra thread or loose thread on seam line or embroidery after finishing of a
stitch.
Causes: -
• It appears due to improper trimming or finishing.

Remedies: -
• UBT/thread trimmer should be used
• Operator training
• Garments finishing should be checked properly.
22. Incorrect tension of the bobbin thread

This defect is when bobbin thread is seen at the top of the stitch.
Causes: -
• Improper tension at discs or bobbin.
Remedies: -
• Check by running a stitch and adjusting the tension as required.
23. Bartack missing

Bartack refers to a series of stitch used to reinforce the areas of stress.

Causes: -
• Operator inefficiency
Remedies: -
• Operator training
24. Joint stitch

When more than one stitch is spliced with one another then create joint stitch.
Causes: -
• Thread breaking.
• Bobbin thread goes empty.
• To cure run off stitch.
Remedies: -
• Good quality sewing thread.
• Proper sewing machine & machine adjustment.
• Observe sewing operators for correct material handling technique.
25. Variable stitch density

Causes: -
• Improper control of fabric feed
Remedies: -
• Increase the foot pressure
• Can go for positive sewing feed mechanism
Defects in trims & accessories: -

(26) (27)

(28)wearer’s left side seam inside out

 (29) (30)button placket at bottom

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

(26) Broken button X
(27) Button style mistake X
(28) Missing hole X
(29) Care label missing X
(30) Thread color variation X
Process of assembling the shirt
1. Button plackets of front
2. Back yoke to back panel
3. Front to back yoke (shoulder to shoulder)
4. Cuff placket preparation
5. Sleeves attachment
6. Enclosure of side seam
7. Addition of cuff to sleeves
8. Collar preparation
9. Collar attachment

In-line inspection check-points

First check point between step 3rd and 4th: -
• Grain line of back yoke
• Top stitch of back yoke
• Top stitch on shoulder joints
• Defects like warp streaks, weft crack, stain etc.
Second check point between step 6th and 7th: -
• Correct alignment at armpit area
• Fall of sleeve
• Defects like warp streaks, weft crack, stain, skip stitch etc.
Second check point between step 8th and 9th: -
• Strike in/strike out
• Mis-alignment of plies
• Top stitch
• Defects like warp streaks, weft crack, stain, skip stitch etc.
Final inspection involves: -
• Shape of collar
• Edge to edge alignment of collar
• Buttons and button holes