Definitions:
‐ Mechanical Advantage (MA)
The relationship between how much load can be moved, to the amount of force it
takes to move it.
‐ Actual Mechanical Advantage (AMA)
The useful mechanical advantage of a pulley system. It is calculated by subtracting the
effects of friction from the theoretical mechanical advantage of the system.
‐ Theoretical Mechanical Advantage (TMA)
The calculated mechanical advantage without allowances for friction and other losses
of advantage.
‐ Simple system
A simple system is where all the moving (traveling) pulleys move towards the anchor
at the same speed. All pulleys at the anchor side of the system remain stationary. The
tension in the rope remains the same throughout the pulley system
‐ Compound system
A compound system is a simple system being pulled by another simple system. Any
combination of two or more simple systems rigged in such a way that the first acts on
the second. The traveling pulleys travel towards the anchor at different speeds.
Compound systems are useful because they can provide greater MA than simple
systems for the same number of pulleys, thereby reducing overall friction loss for the
same MA
‐ Piggyback system (Pig-Rig)
LV Canyoneering
A compound pulley system in which one hauling system pulls on another hauling
system.
‐ Complex system
A system that is neither a simple nor a complex hauling system. Complex systems
have pulleys moving at different speeds. Pulleys can be moving towards the load and
towards the anchor at the same time. A system within a system
‐ Haul System Efficiency
The result of dividing the actual mechanical advantage of a haul system by the
theoretical mechanical advantage. This value is expressed as a percentage.
‐ Traveling Pulley
A moving pulley that is attached to a load or to a haul cam, which adds to the
mechanical advantage.
‐ Z-Rig
The common name given to a specific type of 3:1 hauling system. The name is taken
from the general shape that the rope makes as it runs through the system.
‐ Reset
As a pulley system is pulled on, it collapses to the point where 1 or more of the
traveling pulleys meet the stationary pulleys. At this point the load cannot be pulled up
any further. The term reset describes the act of re-expanding the pulley system to its
original position so that pulling (hauling) may continue.
General:
‐ Some of the most common MA’s in canyoneering are the simple 3:1 z-rig, compound 4:1
pig rig, complex 5:1, compound 6:1 pig rig, simple 2:1 assist.
‐ General considerations for rescue haul systems
‐ If speed is needed, a simple system often means that (1) the system can be set up
quickly, and (2) the haul itself can be performed quickly.
‐ If few people are available for hauling, a higher MA may be required.
‐ If a lot of people are available for hauling, a simpler system can be used. A higher
MA system with a large haul group creates the potential for overloading the
system.
‐ If only a small amount of gear is available for rigging, a simple system is usually
used.
‐ If there is limited area, a simple system should be used if possible. Limited space
means constant resetting of the system.
‐ If the load is heavy, a higher or more complex system may be required
‐ 3:1 Z-Rig minimum equipment requirements
‐ Main line rope
‐ Three locking carabiners
‐ Two pulleys
‐ Two rope grabs (one for hauling, one for PCD)
LV Canyoneering
‐ 4:1 (pig rig) minimum equipment requirements
‐ Main line rope
‐ One hauling rope
‐ Three locking carabiners
‐ Two pulleys
‐ Two rope grabs (one for hauling, one for PCD)
‐ In the real world, all systems will be decreased with friction (Actual Mechanical
Advantage). A 3:1 system is only theoretical. Even the most efficient pulleys will
introduce friction within a system. If two 95% efficient pulleys are used in a simple 3:1
system the systems efficiency will decrease to a 2.85:1; that does not include any other
friction introduced into the system.
‐ A 5:1 or higher safety factor is preferred in recreational canyoneering rescue rigging.
‐ Friction outside the system can increase the overall friction on the system as much if not
much more than friction created within the system.
‐ For efficiency purposes try and use high directional anchors if possible when setting up a
haul system
‐ Use the smallest mechanical advantage system required to do the job
‐ More mechanical advantage requires more rope and more resets
‐ Eliminate friction in the system and/or add manpower on the haul line before adding more
mechanical advantage
‐ Generally the most efficient system will be the simplest but will in turn require the greatest
number of haulers
‐ Typically smaller spaces to haul will require a higher MA
‐ Excessive edge friction can introduce dynamic loads into the system through bounce while
load is being hauled then reset
Simple Systems:
‐ The drawback of a simple 2:1 MA is it requires twice the amount rope to haul since the
haul line is attached to the anchor and ran through a pulley at the load (or person) being
hauled. There’s also a possibility of the two strands becoming twisted if the load rotates
and there’s a greater chance of the rope and pulley getting caught up on debris or getting
damaged since there being hauled up with the load
‐ In a simple system, friction begins to win over mechanical advantage once you exceed a
5:1 or 6:1. In situations where higher mechanical advantage is necessary, use compound or
complex systems or try removing friction within and outside of the system.
‐ In a simple system, if the end of the rope is tied to the load the MA is odd (ex. 3:1)
‐ In a simple system, if the end of the rope is tied to the anchor the MA is even (ex. 2:1)
‐ In a simple system the number of pulleys + 1 gives you the MA. Re-direct pulleys do not
count
Piggyback (pig rig) Systems:
‐ A piggyback (pig rig) system multiplies the mechanical advantage of the original system.
If a 3:1 z-rig is pulled with a 2:1 pig rig the system results in a 6:1 MA.
‐ Pig rigs typically require you to reset two rope grabs. (1) traveling/haul prusik or rope grab
and (1) fixed prusik or rope grab at the main line anchor.
LV Canyoneering
‐ Pig Rigs require more resets
Compound Systems:
‐ A compound system will often be more efficient than a simple system with the same
mechanical advantage, although, a compound system will require more resets.
‐ In compound systems the mechanical advantage of the system is determined by
multiplying each simple system by each other. Example: a 2:1 being pulled by a 2:1 equals
a 4:1 system. If a compound system starts our even or odd it does not always end up that
way. Example: a simple 3:1 being pulled by a simple 2:1 give you a compound 6:1. The
system starts out odd and ends up even.
‐ A compound system will required less resetting if the system with the higher mechanical
advantage pulls on the system with the lower mechanical advantage. Example: a simple
2:1 being pulled by a simple 3:1.
Complex Systems:
‐ To determine the mechanical advantage of a complex system you add each system
together. Example: a 2:1 within a 3:1 equals a 5:1 system.
Components:
‐ The more pulleys you add to the haul system the more efficiency you loose within the
system.
‐ It’s important to know that the pulleys within a haul system does not change the amount of
work being done, it simply trades force for distance. You pull less force, but haul over a
longer distance. You gain mechanical advantage.
‐ It’s possible to add enough friction within a system with the addition of pulleys and
components to the point that no mechanical advantage is achieved.
‐ Carabiners typically fail in efficiency and rope protection compared to pulleys designed for
that use.
‐ Carabiner efficiency can be anywhere from 50% - 60%.
‐ If the last pulley in the system is attached to the anchor it will only serve as a change of
direction and “does not” add any mechanical advantage.
‐ The greater the MA you build with the least number of pulleys, the more efficient your
system will be.
‐ Less loss in efficiency occurs if your most efficient pulley is placed closest to the hauler(s)
or person pulling the rope. This occurs because the loss at the 1st pulley is compounded
throughout the system
‐ Bigger pulleys are typically more efficient that smaller diameter pulleys. Although, there
are many other factors that result in a pulley’s efficiency.
‐ Thinner rope is typically more efficient than thicker rope on a given pulley. This may be of
value when setting up some complex pulley systems where you have the opportunity to use
a thinner cord in addition to a thicker rope.
‐ Pulleys are used to reduce friction on turns, and allow you to build mechanical advantage
within a system
‐ When appropriate consider placing carabiner gates up and the lock screwing down towards
the load
LV Canyoneering
‐ Within a hauling system pulley’s can function in one of two manners: As a “Standing” or
as a “Traveling” pulley.
‐ A “standing pulley” is attached to the anchor system, does not move, only changes
direction, does not contribute to the mechanical advantage of the system and
doubles the force applied to the anchor system.
‐ A “traveling pulley” is attached to the resistance in the system and moves with the
system, also changes direction, contributes to the mechanical advantage within the
system and doubles the force applied to the resistance within the system.
Hauling:
‐ Haulers should always try to haul as close to inline with the anchor as possible to minimize
pulling against the system. Haulers should not jerk the rope as they haul, jerking on the
rope while hauling shock loads the system. Additional people on the haul line increases
load on system components
‐ Pulling the rope up while hauling makes more sense in a horizontal pulley system.
‐ Pulling the rope down while hauling makes more sense in a vertical pulley system.
‐ If the load is light a simple or compound system may be sufficient.
‐ The average hauler can haul between 50 – 70lbs
