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MAY 25, 2011 by INDIAN IN THE MACHINE
DON CROFT: How to Build A Chembuster to
Disperse Chemtrails and Improve the Weather
How to Build A Chembuster to Disperse
Chemtrails
and Improve the Weather
Edited, assembled, and originally posted by Stephanie Relfe at h p//www.metatech.org
(h p//www.metatech.org)
Definition of a contrail: A contrail occurs when a plane travels at a high altitude (about 30,000 ft.
or more) and compresses the air into a water vapor or ice crystals through jet engines or the wing
tips pushing through the air. This trail disappears after anywhere from a few seconds to 15
minutes, as the water vapor evaporates.
Definition of a chemtrail: The term “chemtrail” is a relatively new word, which appeared in the
last few years along with the appearance of chemtrails. A chemtrail is very different from a
contrail. At first a chemtrail might look a bit like a contrail. However, instead of disappearing like
a contrail does, a chemtrail just keeps spreading out and forming a hazy cloud bankout and
forming a hazy cloud bank These trails traverse the whole sky and stay for up to around five or
even eight hours. . .
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They have been known to turn what was
originally a clear blue sky into a grey
haze. (Note: As of Nov 2001 there are
already several dozen Chembusters in
seven countries, so if you see chemtrails
that don’t last anywhere near this long,
there may already be a Chembuster in the
area). It is believed chemtrails are
composed at least in part by an oil based
substance of unknown content that is
actually being sprayed from jets on
populated areas. It has also been found
that some chemtrails contain red blood
cells, aluminum, mycoplasma, viruses
and other unknown biological
components. There are many reports of increased diseases, especially respiratory ailments, in
areas where there are chemtrails.
Chemtrails are often seen to be sprayed by white planes with no markings. Sometimes you will
see these planes give off no contrail at all, and immediately after the same kind of plane in the
same area will start to leave a thick chemtrail. At other times, distinct short gaps in chemtrails
have been photographed, as though the plane ran out of chemicals and then had to start spraying
with a new supply.
For information on Chemtrails see the sites listed at h p://www.carnicom.com/contrails.htm
(h p://www.carnicom.com/contrails.htm)
History of the Cloudbuster
The Wilhelm Reich Cloudbuster was well known for its ability to create rain. But a problem
existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt
the operator if it was not correctly “drained off”. This “draining off” of deadly orgone energy was
accomplished by 1. Connecting the Cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2.
Connecting the Cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the orgone accumulator
would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone energy which in turn caused more
problems for the operator. So the Cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for
many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented
By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy-to-build
device that consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The “Chembuster” is the
answer to these ongoing a acks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly
orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the
operator. You can build one for about $150.
Join The Ba le – Now!
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It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one
person cannot change the things that are happening to our
country. You now have no excuse for inaction. For a few
dollars and a few hours of your time YOU can make a
difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly
reduce the effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all
directions (90 mile diameter) from the unit. If used with
Slim Spurling’s environmental tools, and a few extra
crystals, the diameter can be increased to about 120 miles in
all directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can
SHUT DOWN the multi-billion dollar chemtrail program.
The Chembuster cannot do any damage. It can only help and
heal. It’s up to you to join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details
Chembuster Materials
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Set pipes in bo om spacer
Middle Plywood Spacer
CHEMBUSTER DIRECTIONS
BUCKET: Base: 9″ in dia., 9″ deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint
department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle
buckets from drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to
move the finished Chembuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1″ copper pipes, 6′ long, open at one end, the capped ends
submerged to within an inch or so of the bo om of the bucket before casting. For portability and
shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by pu ing couplers
between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
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CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quar crystal, about 2″ long, into a
.75” section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper
end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use ‘Goop’
glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the
cap during casting. (Note) Another option is to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before
adding the crystal, this smoothes the CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies.
However, citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at eliminating chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place
where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to
look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such
as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a
½” screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!
PLYWOOD: Template 1 – 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper
endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes
2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap.
Template 2 – Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket. Remember to cut a section
away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the
finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in
this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in
position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 – I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8”
holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each
other and fairly rigid.
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Not to scale Widest circle is 9 1/8”
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats), but epoxy also works, as doesEnvirotech
resin (h p://www.eti-usa.com/) from h p://www.eti-usa.com (h p://www.eti-usa.com) (this sets up very
quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). If you are going to construct many of these units, try to
purchase your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a sur oard or boat
manufacturing supply company. Home Depot gets $24 per gallon for resin.
On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bo om of the bucket and stir in metal
particles until the surface is uniform and flat. CAUTION: Resin fumes are flammable; use in a warm,
but well ventilated area.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal particles (equal volume of resin
to metal particles). Put the base Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just touches the surface
and doesn’t sink in much. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set
into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio
as before. Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bo om of the bucket with the
resin squishing over the top.
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Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket.
Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the
resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used during construction,
as I mentioned.
You can finish off pu ing the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if you want, up to within a half
inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished (wait until it hardens before you move it. You will
actually use about one gallon of metal shavings and 1 ½ gal. of resin.
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12″ long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the base. Buy six coupler joints which
allow a pipe to come into them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the
rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10′ long, cut in half. The finished product leaves you with
only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12″ pipes for pouring the second layer of mix, temporarily tape the top ends of the
12″ pipes so no metal particles are dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece down onto the pipes so that it fits
into the rim of the bucket.
Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5′ pipes onto the 12″ base pipes, then put the third (top)
plywood piece onto the 5’ copper pipes.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood piece around until the pipes line up
parallel. As you do that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously,
though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn’t harden before you’re done.
We experimented with 5′ extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It had a strong effect on the moon
and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the
weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base by leaving the extended Chembuster pointing
at the dead orgone field above it for a week.
We found that we don’t need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of
bad orgone, and the longer it’s left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the Chembuster
(many miles). We just stand it on its bo om, pointing straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog,
which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
Chembusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for your Chembuster to activate the
environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the
UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the Chembuster will also disperse, but more
slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make
up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes.
Dr. Reich’s Cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator
a ached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s
concentrated in one spot. It’s similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field. When cloud
cover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or too much rain) the
Chembuster busts it up.
It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the weather, I think it sort of mediates between
the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia, Africa finally brought heavy rain to the
desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the
Chembuster and reported the occurrence (h p://educate-
yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html) ( h p://educate-
yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html (h p://educate-
yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html) ), told me that this had simply never happened in the
Namib desert before to the best of anyone’s knowledge. It’s arguably the driest region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t
put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of
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ours did recently.
Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen mainly as a springboard for
further developments rather than the last word.
SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try pu ing water on top of the material in the bucket
and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily. In freezing climates, cover the top of the six pipes with
mini umbrellas so water can’t freeze and sha er the crystals. The CB appears to effect chemtrails equally
well whether it’s placed indoors or out. Up to seven crystals can be placed in each pipe to improve
performance.
CB plowing through chemtrails in the midwest
This entry was posted in Can You See The Love and tagged DON CROFT: How to Build A
Chembuster to Disperse Chemtrails and Improve the Weather.
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8 Comments
8 thoughts on “DON CROFT: How to Build A Chembuster to
Disperse Chemtrails and Improve the Weather”
Skywatch Vilnius says:
May 25, 2011 at 9:30 pm
h p://skywatchvilnius.wordpress.com/ – CHEMIKALŲ VILNIAUS DANGUJE STEBĖJIMO
BLOGAS // CHEMTRAILS IN LITHUANIA BLOG
Reply
Maggie Ryane says:
June 27, 2011 at 3:52 am
My chembuster is working great but there is a fare amount of water that has accumulated in the
bucket on top of the resin and in the pipes. Should I pour this water out? Does the water affect how it
works?
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Reply
Kade says:
February 19, 2014 at 10:38 pm
Can you explain the science of how all the elements of the chembuster work when assembled? I want
to know why it works … how is it interacting with the atmosphere?
Reply
darsi16 says:
February 22, 2014 at 8:26 am
Hello
A friend from Brazil who has had success busting chemtrails offered to show how it’s done but only
on a private blog. Join bustachemcloud.wordpress.com. send me your user name or email for an
invite.
” One of the goals of chemtrails is to provoke artificial storms through agglutination of humidity.
Our equipment can greatly decrease the effect that, by changing the electrical charge of the metal ions
contained on the trails through the crystals.”
More effective than chembuster
Please forward this to anyone you feel may be interested. Thank you very much!
We are in this together!
Darsi
(Ven Cardo I Paratron)
Reply
Oma says:
September 24, 2014 at 12:52 am
Good replies in return of this issue with real arguments
and describing everything on the topic of
that.
Reply
george tsagaris says:
November 10, 2014 at 6:31 pm
could someone tell me if i can buy one chem buster ??? i do not have a way of making one but i
would be ready to pay someone to make me one and ship it to me .i am in greece .
Reply
augie snyder says:
May 10, 2018 at 6:17 am
me too
Reply
Jewels says:
January 28, 2016 at 1:20 pm
Amazazing! Can’t wait to share with the world thankyou X together we can fight this!!
Reply
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