-=[sampleslicer]=-
manual V1.0
It is easy... so, let’s start building!
First of all get your desk ready and make sure you have the necessary tools:
- soldering iron
- soldering tin
- cutter (the ones like in the picture are the best but a small nail clipper will do the job too)
Follow the next steps in the order it is written down.
After each step flip the board and clip off the wires.
Start with the “back board”.
If there is a “–” between the component values than all components between them have the same value, if there is a “/” the components between them
are different. Example: if there is written “R1-R17” all 17 resistors have the same value, if there is written “R28/R33” than only R28 and R33 have
the same value.
Diodes
D3-D11 BAT43 (Blue with black stripe)
D1/D2 1N4001 (black with white stripe)
Make sure you solder them in the right direction! There is a black marker on one
side which should correspond with the marker on the PCB like on the drawing.
Resistors (back board)
R1-R17/R34 1K (brown – black – red)
R18-R23/R35-R37 100K (brown – black – yellow)
R24-R27/R29 3K6 (orange – blue – red)
R28/R33/R41 10K (brown – black – orange)
R30-R32/R38-R40/R42 20K (red-black-black-red-brown) * blue resistors
Capacitors 1
C1/C2 22 (22pF)
C3-C6 10 (10nF)
C7-C22 100 (100nF)
C23/C24 330 (330nF)
(The other caps will be soldered later)
XTAL
The 16MHz crystal is the oval metal can with two pins.
78L05
There are two 78L05 on the board. This is the black thing with 3 feet which looks like a transistor, in the kit they are marked with
“7805”. Mind the direction drawn on the PCB!
IC sockets
there are 8 IC's in the sampleslicer. Mind the direction!
Pin 1 is marked on the PCB and is marked on the IC with a dot or small gap. Place the IC sockets with the gap towards pin 1 (square
pad). The name of the IC is written on the PCB but is less easy to read when the socket is in place so remember where the IC's should
be placed. Place the IC's after you finished and checked the boards.
Capacitors 2
C25-C27 860pF (small red WIMA's)
C30/C31* 47uF*
C32-C34* 10uF*
C28/C29 1uF (big red WIMA's)
* Mind that these caps have two sides (a + and – side) so it is important to check the direction before you solder them! The – side is
marked on the PCB with a small “–” and has a square pad.
Power header
It should be placed on the back. Mind direction drawn on the PCB.
(the SPI header can be left out, you won't need it)
Take a coffee and go on with the front board
Step 2: Front board
Resistors (front board)
R1/R3 100K (brown – black – yellow)
R4-R9 10K (brown – black – orange)
R2 should be left open
Capacitors
C35-C38 10 (10nF)
C39/C6* 100 (100nF)
* C6 should have been renamed to C40 in the next batch
Jumper
this jumper is optional in case you want to use an alternative tracking for the start point. My advice is to leave it open unless you
want the note tracking on the start point. When this function is activated the tracking of the incoming cv signal on the start point is
not linear but calculated to 16 white keys on a keyboard, the potentiometer will react different as well.
Transistors
Q1-Q3 547 (BC547)
Mind the direction drawn on the PCB!
Connection headers
In the next step you are going to make the connection between the back board and front board. For this you need to cut the 2 male
headers to the size of the female headers (16pins and 18pins). Put the male headers in the female headers and place them with the
female headers on the component side of the back board. Than place the front board over the male headers (mind that you place the
front board facing the components away from the back board).
If you aligned the boards than solder the connections. Now remove the back board again and go on with the next parts.
Potentiometers, LEDs, jacks and switches
In this part we will place all the components which are connected to the frontpanel. Don't solder anything before you have lined it all
out*.
Start with placing the potentiometers (but don't solder after this step)
Potentiometers
Speed, Pitch, Start, Length 10Klin (Alps green pots)
Att 50Klin (blue tall trimmer marked with B5-03 on the bottom)
Gain 25Klog (blue tall trimmer marked with A2-53 on the bottom)
* Don't solder anything yet
Jacks
Place all the jacks
* Don't solder anything yet
Switches
S1/S2 slide switch
S3 tall small switch
S4 low small switch with square head
Place the red cap on S4
* Don't solder anything yet
Place the frontpanel and tighten it with a few nuts. Tighten at least one or two potentiometers and a few jacks.
If you think it is all aligned than start soldering the components on their place while the frontpanel is keeping them right.
Remove the frontpanel and place the leds.
LEDs
Mind the direction! The long pin of the LED should be placed in the square pad marked with “+”.
Place back the panel and keep it on place with some nuts. Check if all LEDs are on their place in the panel. Solder all LEDs if they
are on their place while the frontpanel holds them in place.
Tighten all the parts on the frontpanel and put the knobs on.
You are finished! Time to power it on for the first time.
Calibrating
The sampleslicer needs to be calibrated. Before you start. Make sure nothing is plugged into the sampleslicer! Turn the gain knob
fully anti clockwise (turn to left). Now power on the module while pressing down the “sample” and “pitch mode” button. Keep
these button pressed down for about 30 seconds and the LEDs will light up one by one. When calibration is finished you will see a
binairy code on the LEDs. Just ignore this, this is the voltage it is calibrated to. Restart the module and have fun slicing!