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Formulation of facial cleansing gels using aloe vera as natural surfactant
To cite this article: R Wulandini et al 2019 J. Phys.: Conf. Ser. 1402 055069
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4th Annual Applied Science and Engineering Conference IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1402 (2019) 055069 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1402/5/055069
Formulation of facial cleansing gels using aloe vera as natural
surfactant
R Wulandini, F S Irwansyah and N Windayani*
Department of Chemistry Education, UIN Sunan Gunung Djati Bandung, Jl. A. H.
Nasution No. 105, Bandung 40614, Indonesia
*[email protected]
Abstract. This study aims to make facial wash gel made from Aloe vera as a natural surfactant.
The design based research experimental method used includes the phytochemical screening
analysis of samples of A. vera extract, making A. vera gel with the addition of carbomer 960 to
the aloe extract solution with a percentage of 0.5%, 0.7% and 2%, selection of essential oils
according to the needs of facial skin. Furthermore, making Aloe gel as a facial wash by adding
carbomer 960 with a percentage of 0.5%, 0.7%, 2% then add triethanolamine to alkalinize the A.
vera extract to form a stable gel according to the characteristics of the Indonesian national
standard (SNI 2588:2017). This facial wash utilizes secondary metabolites contained in A. vera.
The results showed that A. vera extract used positively contained flavonoid, triterpenoid, saponin
and polyphenol compounds. The best formulation of facial wash gel has been successfully
obtained from the addition of carbomer 960 with a percentage of 0.7%, triethanolamine eight
drops, moringa seed oil 1ml, virgin coconut oil 1ml, one drop of lavender oil, whey kefir five
drops, and natural E 2 capsules. The organoleptic results of A. vera gel as facial wash include
having an aroma following the added essence, soft texture, gel form, cloudy white color, feeling
relaxed or cold when applied to facial skin, and without foam having a pH of 5 according to SNI.
1. Introduction
Cleanliness is something very important that must be considered because the environment around is not
as clean as in the past, and there are many various bacteria, dust, and pollution which later cause a lot
of impurities and diseases [1]. Disorders that often occur, namely on the skin, especially on the skin,
namely the emergence of acne. Usually, acne occurs during puberty due to hormonal changes.
Pilosebaceous blockage and inflammation are generally triggered by the bacteria Propionibacterium
acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Staphylococcus aureus [2]. A face that is not clean will cause
acne, so to prevent the occurrence of these problems need handling from the outside or from inside the
body. One of them is handling from outside the body by using non-soap facial cleanser [3].
Facial cleansers are a major requirement for the community because they are able to clean the face
from dust, pollution, the rest of the cosmetics and protect the face from sun exposure [4]. Then the dirty
face will cause a new problem that is easy to grow zits that can reduce self-confidence, oiliness, itching,
and others. One herbal product that is often used to cleanse the face is Aloe vera (A. vera (L.). A. vera,
which is native to Africa, which has a thick fleshy physical characteristic, has spiny sides, is long and
narrow at its edges, green, and has slimy leaf flesh. All parts of A. vera can be used both for body care
and acne prone skin and there is a content of kaolin which has benefits for the exfoliation process to
remove dead skin [3].
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4th Annual Applied Science and Engineering Conference IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1402 (2019) 055069 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1402/5/055069
Acne treatment can be done by reducing soap, helping to exfoliate dead skin cells so as not to invite
the gathering of bacteria [5]. Natural products are believed to be safer than antibiotics. One herbal
product that is often used for acne treatment is Aloe vera (A. vera (L.). So that we want to make liquid
soap for the face to make it more practical. Where this A. vera cleanser is safe for sensitive skin,
environmentally friendly, does not pollute the environment and to rinse it does not require a large
amount of water so it can save clean water.
2. Methods
Plant material used in facial cleansing gel formulations, namely aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis Miller).
Aloe vera plants extract are purchased from an online marketplace, origin from Soreang area of
Bandung. This plant has storage of water reserves which functions as moisturizing the skin, antiseptic,
and can soften the skin.
2.1. Formulation of Aloe vera extract the facial cleansing gel
Prepare 1gram aloe vera extract, mix aloe extract into 200 grams of aquadest, stir until homogeneous,
measure pH of the solution, add 0.5%, 0.7%, 2% carbomer 940, stir until homogeneous, measure pH of
the solution, add triethanolamine until the solution reaches pH 5, add whey kefir 5 drops to reach pH 5
gel form add moringa seed oil, virgin coconut oil, natural E, stir until evenly mixed, pack in container
[6]. Then the phytochemical test was carried out in groups of flavonoids, tannins, polyphenols, saponins
and terpenoids/steroids [7].
2.2. Comparative evaluation of prepared gels
2.2.1. The organoleptic test. The organoleptic test was conducted to determine the quality of facial
cleansing gel from aloe vera extract based on the human senses. The facial cleansing gel from aloe
extract is given to ten respondents with three different formulations. Respondents observed color,
texture, smell, and effects when applied to the skin [8].
2.2.2. The pH, homogeneity, viscosity, and clean power test. The pH test was carried out at a
concentration of carbomer 960 0.5%; 0.7%; 2%. Gel preparations were measured using pH meters. The
homogeneity test was carried out by smearing the sample on the petri dish and then observing it [9]. The
viscosity test is carried out to determine the viscosity of facial cleansing gel from aloe vera extract. The
tool used is a viscometer with the appropriate spindle and speed [10]. The clean power test refers to
Wilkinson and Moore [11] is the process of cleaning the surface of the skin with various modifications
to stains / foreign objects applied to the surface of the skin.
3. Result and discussion
Aloe vera is a plant that has many benefits and is usually used as a basic ingredient in medicines and
cosmetics. Besides functioning as an antiseptic, A. vera can also soften and moisturize the skin [11].
The Aloe barbadensis Miller species is widely used by the community because it has many
advantages, namely: the size of the leaves is large, pest resistant, and safe to use for cosmetics, many
contain good nutrients for the body as shown below [3]. This study purpose to make a facial cleanser by
utilizing secondary metabolites contained in A. vera extract.
Based on table 1 the aftereffects of the phytochemical trial of A. vera separate demonstrated that the
A. vera separate utilizing the freeze-dried technique contained four groups of flavonoids,
steroids/triterpenoids, polyphenols, and tannins.
3.1. A. vera gel formulation
To get a facial cleansing gel from A. vera extract formulations need to be done with several different
treatments. This is to find out the best results based on the organoleptic test, pH test, and viscosity test.
2
4th Annual Applied Science and Engineering Conference IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1402 (2019) 055069 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1402/5/055069
Table 2 shows the formulations used in the manufacture of A. vera extract facial cleansing gels in the
presence of differences in the addition of carbomer 960 which is 0.5%; 0.7%; 2%. Moreover, it will
affect the pH of the gel and the thickness of the gel that will be produced.
Table 1. Phytochemical screening test of A. vera extract.
No Phytochemical test A. vera Extract Information
Positive
1 Flavonoid Color changes occur in the
solution of A. vera extract
Positive
2 Tannin Color changes become
greenish
Negative
3 Saponin There is a slight build-up like
foam
Polyphenols Positive
4
The green color changes occur
Positive
5 Steroid/triterpenoid
An orange change occurs
The addition of whey kefir to the facial cleanser gel formulation functions as a lightening agent. The
main determinant of color or skin pigmentation is melanin. Melanin synthesis in melanocyte cells occurs
through the process of melanogenesis which is a combination of enzymatic catalysis processes and
chemical reactions. The enzymatic reaction of melanogenesis is a reaction catalyzed by the enzyme
tyrosinase. Tyrosinase enzyme is a glycoprotein which plays a very important role in the process of
forming skin pigments and also in whey kefir containing lactic acid is a group of alpha hydroxyl acids
(AHAs) which can brighten the skin [10].
Table 2. A. vera gel formulation.
%
No Composition
F1 F2 F3
1 A. vera extract 0.50 0.50 0.50
2 Aquades 99.50 99.50 99.50
3 Carbomer 960 0.50 0.70 2.00
4 Triethanolamine 0.40 0.32 0.62
5 Whey kefir 0.10 0.10 0.10
6 Lavender oil - - 0.02
7 Orange oil 0.07 0.07 -
8 Moringa seed oil 0.50 0.50 0.50
9 Virgin Coconut Oil 0.50 0.50 0.50
10 Phenoxyetanol 0.50 0.50 0.50
3.2. Organoleptic test
Organoleptic was performed to show the quality of facial cleansing gel from A. vera extract that had
been made with a concentration of carbomer 960 of 0.5%; 0.7%; 2%. The results of the organoleptic
analysis were obtained in table 3.
3
4th Annual Applied Science and Engineering Conference IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1402 (2019) 055069 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1402/5/055069
Based on table 3 these data indicate that the colors produced from the three formulations made are
cloudy white but in the third formulation in the addition of 2% carbomer 960 gel colors to white, this is
influenced by the color of carbomer which is white powder. While the first formula and the two
carbomer concentrations are not so much, only 0.5% and 0.7% so that the resulting color is slightly
cloudy white. Then the odor produced from the three formulations that have been added to essential oils
is orange essential oil and lavender essential oil. The texture or thickness of the first formulation of the
respondents rated it runny, in the second formulation the texture was rather thick and in the formulation
three the texture was very thick. This is due to the difference in carbomer concentration added causing
the viscosity of each facial cleansing gel from A. vera extract to be different [10].
Table 3. Organoleptic test results of A. vera extract facial cleansing gel.
Product
Organoleptic Test Assessment criteria
A B C
Very fragrant 0 6 0
Aroma Pretty fragrant 8 4 1
Not fragrant 2 0 9
White 0 0 0
Rather white 0 0 1
Murky white 9 9 8
Color Transparent 1 1 1
Dark brown 0 0 0
Light brown cloudy 0 0 0
Brownish yellow 0 0 0
Very thick / gel 0 0 10
A bit thick / gel 0 10 0
Viscosity A bit runny 10 0 0
Very runny 0 0 0
Runny 0 0 0
Very cold 1 1 1
It's rather cold 4 4 3
Not cold 0 0 1
Effect Hot 0 0 0
Rather hot 0 0 0
Not hot 5 5 6
Information: A: Formulasi carbomer 960 0,5%; B: Formulasi carbomer 960 0,7%; C: Formulasi
carbomer 960 2%
3.3. pH analysis
Normal skin has a pH around 4.5-6.5. When cleaning your face with soap, the pH value of the skin will
increase. It is necessary for facial cleansers to neutralize the pH value of the face so that the pH of the
face will not exceed pH 7.
The results of pH analysis showed that facial cleansing gel from A. vera extract was following SNI
2588: 2017, which states that skin pH is around 4.5-8. This means that three formulations are suitable
for use as facial cleansing gels. As for the economic aspects and effectiveness, the addition of
triethanolamine in formulation one will be less, compared to formulation 2 and formulation 3.
Table 4. Physical characteristics of A. vera extract facial cleansing gel.
pH Viscosity
Homogeneity
No Formulation on triethanolamine addition (cP)
Before After
1. 1 4,3 5,0 1624 homogeneous
2. 2 4,0 5,0 1480 homogeneous
3. 3 3,6 5,0 Over limit homogeneous
3.4. Viscosity test
The viscosity test is carried out to determine the thickness of a solution. For the results of the viscosity,
the test can be seen in table 4.
4
4th Annual Applied Science and Engineering Conference IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1402 (2019) 055069 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1402/5/055069
The resulting gel viscosity shows that the higher the carbomer concentration, the higher the viscosity
of the gel [6]. Then the viscosity of a gel other than influenced by carbomer gel is also influenced by
triethanolamine which functions as a stabilizer pH.
3.5. Homogeneity test
The homogeneity test was carried out by smearing the sample on the petri dish and then observing it.
The gel is based on A. vera extract which is evenly dispersed. Can be seen the results of the observations
in Figure 1.
a b c
Figure 1. a) formulation 1; b) formulation 2; c) formulation 3.
The homogeneity test of the three formulations showed homogeneity because it did not produce clots
when applied to petri dishes. Based on the conditions of preparation it was declared homogeneous,
namely the absence of clots or particles not separated. Factors that can influence gel homogeneity are
the stirring process in a mixture of facial cleansing gel ingredients from A. vera extract [10].
Table 5. The results of the clean power test of facial cleansing gel from Aloe vera extract
Formulation Stain before Testing Stain after Clean Power Clean Power Information
Clean Power Testing Indicator
Shows the value of
indicator 4 on the
number of effective
1 gels as much as 0.20
grams
Foundation stain 0.02 cleaning gel 0.20 grams
grams
Shows the value of
indicator 4 on the
number of effective
2 gels as much as 0.15
grams
Foundation stain 0.02 Cleansing gel as much as
grams 0.15 grams
Shows the value of
indicator 4 on the
number of effective
3 gels as much as 0.10
grams
Foundation stain 0.02 Cleansing gel as much as
grams 0.10 grams
5
4th Annual Applied Science and Engineering Conference IOP Publishing
Journal of Physics: Conference Series 1402 (2019) 055069 doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1402/5/055069
3.6. Clean power test
Clean power test is the process of cleaning the surface of the skin from unwanted stains / foreign objects.
To clean it can use washers/cleaners [11]. Based on table 5 observations of clean power tests, it can be
seen that facial cleansing gels from A. vera extract are able to lift foundation stains on the back of the
hand. Clean power is a characteristic that must be possessed by soap products or cleaners that are capable
of removing impurities. Measuring net strength can be done by applying powder/foundation stains on
the back of the hand then cleaning it with a facial cleansing gel from A. vera extract.
4. Conclusion
Based on the results of research that has been done it can be concluded that A. vera extract
contains bioactive compounds that are very beneficial for facial skin. The compounds contained
are groups of flavonoids, tannins, polyphenols, and triterpenoid compounds. The metabolic
compounds contained in A. vera extract can be used for facial cleansing gel products from A.
vera extract without soap and are safe for sensitive skin. With an effective and economical
formulation on adding carbomer 960 0.5% and pH 5.
Acknowledgment
This research publication supported by The Center of Research and Publication, LP2M UIN
Sunan Gunung Djati Bandung.
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