e ye witness travel guides

canary

beaches maps
mount
sport
tours
wildlife
The Guides that show you what others only tell you
The Canary Islands Area by Area

L A P ALMA
Pages 140–151

T ENERIFE
Pages 96–121

Sa
Santa
S Cruz
de la Palma
d
LA PA
AL
AL
ALMA

San
San
anta Cruz
d Tenerife
de

LA GOM
MERA TENERIFE
Sa
S an Sebastián
de la Gomera
d

ELL H
HIERRO

L A G OMERA
Pages 122–131

E L H IERRO
Pages 132–139
 0 km 50

0 Miles 50

ISLA DE ALEGRANZA
ZA

ISLA DE MONTAπA CLARA

A
L ANZAROTE ISLA GRACIOSA
A
Pages 80–95

LANZ
NZA
ZA O
ZAROTE

Arrecife
Arre
re

IISLA DE LOS
LOBOS

Puerto del Rosario

Pue
FUERTEVE
ENTURA

LLass Palmas
de Gran Canaria
de
Arucas

GRAN CANARIA
C

Ma
Maspalomas

F UERTEVENTURA
Pages 66–79

G RAN C ANARIA
Pages 40–65
E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L G U I D E S

canary
islands
E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L G U I D E S

canary
islands
PIOTR PASZKIEWICZ
Main contributors:
& HANNA FARYNA-P
PASZKIEWICZ
 C ONTENTS
HOW TO USE
THIS GUIDE 6

Produced by Hachette Livre Polska Sp. z o.o.

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Pawe∏ Pasternak

CONTRIBUTORS Piotr Paszkiewicz, Hanna Faryna-Paszkiewicz,
Ma∏gorzata WiÊniewska, Barbara Sudnik, Eligiusz Nowakowski
CONSULTANT Carlos Rubio Palomera
GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Pawe∏ Kamiƒski, Pawe∏ Pasternak, Piotr Kiedrowski
EDITOR Robert G. Pasieczny
TYPESETTING AND LAYOUT Ewa Roguska, Piotr Kiedrowski
CARTOGRAPHERS Magdalena Polak, Dariusz Romanowski,
Olaf Rodowald
PHOTOGRAPHERS Pawe∏ Wójcik, Bart∏omiej Zaranek
ILLUSTRATORS Monika Sopiƒska, Bohdan Wróblewski

Dorling Kindersley Limited

TRANSLATOR Magda Hannay
EDITORS Irene Lyford, Michelle de Larrabeiti, Matthew Tanner
SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Jason Little
PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Melanie Dowland

Printed and bound in China Madonna from a church fa˜ade at

by Toppan Printing Co. (Shenzhen Ltd) Santiago del Teide

First American Edition, 2003 INTRODUCING

08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
THE C ANARY
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc.,
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 ISLANDS
Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008
Copyright © 2003, 2008 Dorling Kindersley, London
PUTTING THE
CANARY ISLANDS ON
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN-A
AMERICAN THE MAP 10
COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE
REPRODUCED, STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY A PORTRAIT OF THE
FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING,
RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION
CANARY ISLANDS 12
OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
THE CANARY ISLANDS
THROUGH THE YEAR 24
A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS AVAILABLE
FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 9780 7894 9304 0

FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN

USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL.

The information in this

Dorling Kindersley Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as
possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as
telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements
and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot
accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this
book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee
that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very
highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Children at the carnival in Las
Palmas de Gran Canaria
Viewing point by Los Roques at Teide National Park
Golden sandy beach near Corralejo, on Fuerteventura

THE HISTORY OF THE T RAVELLERS ’ S URVIVAL G UIDE

CANARY ISLANDS 28 N EEDS
PRACTICAL
T HE C ANARY INFORMATION 186
I SLANDS
A REA BY A REA TRAVEL INFORMATION
194
THE CANARY ISLANDS
AT A GLANCE 38 GENERAL INDEX 198
GRAN CANARIA 40 PHRASE BOOK 207
Morena frita – a popular
FUERTEVENTURA 66 local dish

LANZAROTE 80
WHERE TO STAY 154
WHERE TO EAT 164
SHOPPING ON THE
CANARY ISLANDS 176
Ceramic candleholder from a
ENTERTAINMENT ON THE factory in La Orotava

CANARY ISLANDS 178

MAP OF FERRY ROUTES
OUTDOOR Inside back cover
ACTIVITIES 180

Fa˜ade of the parish church in

Vega del Río de Palma

TENERIFE 96
LA GOMERA 122
EL HIERRO 132
LA PALMA 140
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HIS GUIDE WILL HELPyou to get the history. Individual sections describe the

T most out of your visit to the Canary

Islands. It provides recommen-
dations on places to visit as well as
main historic sites and star attractions on
each of the archipelago’s seven inhabited
islands Help with accommodation

C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 97

TENERIFE
N THE LANGUAGE OF the Guanches the name Tenerife meant “white

I mountain”. This referred to the looming Pico del Teide – Spain’s

tallest peak. The 3,718-m (12,195-ft) volcano is at the heart of the
island and forms part of the national park, attracting many
thousands of visitors every year. Depending on the season, its summit
is enveloped in clouds, sulphur or a good dusting of snow.

Covering an area of 2,354 Its beginnings go back to

sq km (908 sq miles), the late 19th century when
Tenerife is the largest of the first tourists arrived in
the archipelago’s islands. search of blue skies, sun and
Situated between La Gomera clean air. The first hotel – the
and Gran Canaria, 300 km Grand Hotel Taoro in Puerto
(186 miles) from Africa, it de la Cruz – was built in 1892
has about 700,000 inhabitants. and was then one of the
The northern areas are the Balcony adorning a largest hotels in Spain.
most densely populated, in house in La Orotava However, the real boom in
particular around Santa Cruz tourism began in the late
– the island and provincial capital. 1960s. At first, tourists came mainly
Pico del Teide divides the island to the fertile, northern region of the
into two distinct climate zones. island. Soon, however, tourism
Sheltered by the crater, the reached the south and, before long,
northwestern area is humid, covered its rocky shores were covered with
in lush tropical vegetation, and many truck-loads of sand imported
supports evergreen vineyards. The from the Sahara. Investment was
southern part is hot, rocky and arid. stepped up with the addition of
Because of this, Tenerife, like Gran smart hotels and a dash of greenery.
Canaria, is often referred to as a The gamble paid off and today most
“miniature continent”. of the visitors to Tenerife prefer the
By far the most important element southern resorts, such as Playa de las
of the island’s economy is tourism. Américas and Los Cristianos.

6 69

g 4
3

ATLANTIC OCEAN
SANTA CRUZ
DE TENERIFE
5 2

Casa de Santa
1g

E
direct air
k e, Gran
fe, and
9 fe to the
8 ere are also
0 o nd Spanish
umber of
Regular ferry
o del
e (Lanzarote)
Gran Canaria,
Playa Blanca
i ofoil runs
o Las Palmas
he local

u
w

y L A S P A L M A S D E G R A N C A N A R I A 49
t

Cueva Pintada de Gáldar, as Exploring in Triana

r – terracotta To the north of the motorway
“stamps” used for printing that encloses the area of La
geometric patterns on clothes. Vegueta lies Triana – the
commercial district of town,
R Catedral de Santa Ana marked to the north by Bravo
Plaza Santa Ana. Murillo street along which
The building of the cathedral runs the old city wall. The
began in 1497 and took 400 street leads to the ruins of the
years to complete. The old castle – Castillo de Mata.
lengthy gestation affected The centre of this regularly
both its architectural form shaped area is cut across by
and interior furnishings. the Boulevard Calle Mayor
The Neo-Classical fa˜ade de Triana. The ground floors
hides Gothic vaults resting on of its Modernist houses are
slender columns, altar retables, occupied by shops. Evidence
Baroque pulpits and sculp- of bloody battles fought with
tures by José Luján Pérez. pirates can be seen in San
The crypt contains the tomb Francisco Church, destroyed
of José de Viera y Clavijo, during an attack by Dutch
Fa˜ade of the cathedral of Santa Ana Canary traveller, historian of pirates, led by Peter van der
the Enlightenment period and Does, in 1599 and
Exploring La Vegueta E Museo Canario the author of Noticias de la subsequently restored in the
La Vegueta, the oldest district C/Dr Verneau, 2. § 928 336 800. Historia General de Canarias. 17th century. Opposite the
of Las Palmas, consists of a # 10am–8pm Mon–Fri; 10am–2pm Another chapel is the resting church stands the bust of
labyrinth of narrow streets, Sat–Sun. & place of diplomat Fernando Christopher Columbus.
lined with historic houses ∑ www.step.es/museo-canario de León y Castillo (see p65). Unveiled in 1892, this is one
with wooden balconies and The Canary Islands’ Museum A lift in the south tower of many landmarks symboliz-
beautiful patios. Equally was opened in 1879. A refur- whisks visitors to the viewing ing the town’s links with great
charming are the old town bishment carried out in the terrace, which offers fine views geographic discoveries.
squares, such as Plaza de mid-1980s has transformed it of the town and harbour.
Santo Domingo, with St into a modern establishment. F Teatro Pérez Galdós
Dominic Church dating from The collection includes E Museo Diocesano C/Lentini, 1. § 928 322 008. Tiled café in the Modernist kiosk in Parque San Telmo
the early 18th century. Also such archaeological finds de Arte Sacro In the south of Triana, almost
noteworthy is the Baroque as statuettes of gods, C/Espíritu Santo, 20. opposite Mercado Público, E Casa Museo Pérez Galdós interior décor. It contains
church of San Francisco pottery, jewellery § 928 314 989. # stands a theatre named after C/Cano, 6. § 928 366 976. objects associated with the
de Borja (1644) formerly and tools of the 10am–4:30pm Mon– Fri; the respected writer Benito ` 928 373 734. # 9am–1pm, writer’s life, as well as
belonging to the Augustine Guanches, as well 10am–1:30pm Sat. & Pérez Galdós (1843–1920). 4–8pm Mon–Fri; 9am–3pm Sat. photographs of many actors
monks and now serving as as skulls, skeletons Opened in 1984, this Built in 1919, this structure The Museum of Benito Pérez who appeared in his plays.
a law court. and mummies. The museum of sacred is the work of Miguel Martín Galdós, the most distin-
Right at the edge of the displays, which are Ceramic vessel from art adjoins the Fernández de la Torre. The guished writer from the P Gabinete Literario
district are large market halls diverse, also Museo Canario cathedral. It has opulent interior decorations Canary Islands, occupies the Plaza Cairasco.
selling a variety of goods, include models of a collection of and the auditorium for 1,400 house in which he was born This building, which was
including fruit, vegetables, historic houses. Among the Spanish sculpture and some spectators were designed by and where he lived until reconstructed in the
fish, meat and local cheeses, star attractions are copies of noteworthy paintings, his brother, Néstor Martín 1862. This five-storey building Modernist style, was built in
as well as local handicrafts. the paintings discovered in including works by old Fernández de la Torre. Today has a small patio adorned 1842 as a theatre. In 1894 it
Dutch masters. this is the best theatre in Las with a statue of the writer. was turned into a club. Now
Palmas and one of the best in The museum, which opened it houses, among other things,
N ÉSTOR M ARTÍN F ERNÁNDEZ DE LA T ORRE E Centro Canario de Arte the Canary Islands. in 1964, still has the original a library and a restaurant.
Néstor Martín Fernández de la Torre (1887–1938) was one Moderno (CCAM)
of the most original artists to come from the Canary Los Balcones, 8–10. Y Parque San Telmo
Islands. Born in Las Palmas, he § 928 311 824. # 10am–5pm San Telmo Park is reached
studied in Paris where he Mon–Fri; 10am–2pm Sat–Sun. & via the Calle Mayor Triana
became familiar with the work CCAM organizes exhibitions, Passage. At the edge of the
of Pre-Raphaelite, Symbolist mainly of avant-garde art. It park stands the small, 17th-
and Secessionist artists. In 1910, also has its own collection of century San Telmo Chapel,
he represented Spain in the works by artists influential in devoted to this patron saint of
World Exhibition in Brussels. shaping 20th-century Canary fishermen. On the opposite
He produced paintings, stage art. CAAM provides a venue side is a Modernist kiosk,
designs, theatre and opera for academic symposia on the built in 1923 and decorated
costumes and interior designs, subject of modern art and has with ceramic tiles. Standing
but was known principally for an extensive library, including on the side of the park is the
his murals. In 1934, he settled videos. In stark contrast to Gobierno Militar building
permanently in Gran Canaria, the 18th-century fa˜ade of where, on 18 July 1936,
and devoted the last years of this former hotel, the modern General Franco declared his
his life to developing and Painting by Néstor in Museo interior, designed by Francisco opposition to the Republican
publicizing Canary art forms. Néstor (see p50) Sainz de Oiza and Martín government, signalling the
Chirino, is light and airy. Patio of Casa Museo Pérez Galdós in Triana, with the writer’s statue start of the Spanish Civil War.
 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7

Major Towns
4 At least two pages are devoted to
each major town, with detailed descrip-
tions of historic remains and local
curiosities that are worth seeing.

A Visitors’ Checklist provides

112 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 113

Puerto de la Cruz century, when the town

HECKLIST
was the main exporter of the
ISING UP FROM the sea front, Puerto de la Cruz was island’s agricultural produce. Plaza
R the principal port of the island after the destruction
of Garachico. By the late 19th century, it had already
Today you can buy freshly
caught fish direct from the
de Europa, 922 386 000.
_ Gran
fishermen.
become a resort and a popular destination for Poder de Díos (15 Jul).

upmarket British visitors and remains so to this day. R Iglesia de San Francisco
The hotels tower above banana plantations, shopping C/San Juan. Jardín Botánico
arcades, casinos, restaurants, cafés and nightclubs, as The Church of St Francis is C/Retama, 2. § 922 383 572.
well as numerous historic sites. An artificial lagoon and built around the Ermita de S Lago Martiánez # 9am–7pm daily. &
warm, clear water attracts over 100,000 visitors each San Juan, which was Playa Martiánez. § 922 385 955. The local botanical garden is
year to the area. constructed in 1599. One of # 10am–6pm daily. ¢ May. & one of the oldest in the
the oldest buildings in Puerto This artificial lagoon, world. It was established in
P Plaza de Europa de la Cruz, it is decorated designed by César Manrique, 1788 at the request of Carlos
Hugging the shoreline, this with sculptures and paintings, Lush banana plantations south was built in 1969. Conjuring III of Spain, by Alonso de
square was laid out in 1992, from the 16th century up to of Parque Taoro up a subtropical paradise, it Nova Gimón.
but is based on 18th- and modern times. has lush plants and white Today, the lush garden is
19th-century European-style Today, this modest building of Gaunche products and the sand. It consists of a complex crammed with over 1,000
town planning. Its features serves as an ecumenical mummified remains of the of seawater swimming pools species of plants and trees
include the town hall (1973) church, and holds services for island’s original inhabitants. and gurgling fountains, which from the Canary Islands,
and the Casa de Miranda all Christian denominations in contrast with the surrounding as well as flora from all over
(1730), a fine old town the town. + Castillo de San Felipe lava field. the world.
house, which now This small 17th-century fort
accommodates a restaurant P Plaza del Charco once guarded the harbour
specializing in local fare. The de los Camerones entrance against attacks from
tourist information bureau is Many of the town’s most pirates and the ships of Spain’s
also in this square. historic buildings are found two maritime rivals: France
in Plaza del Charco, a square and England. Now the fort,
Portal of the Iglesia de Nuestra P Casa de la Real Aduana shaded by palm and laurel situated in the western part of
Señora de la Peña de Francia Calle de las Lonjas. § 922 378 103. trees, which were brought town, often serves as a venue
# Mon–Sat. in 1852 from Cuba. for temporary exhibitions.
R Iglesia de Nuestra Señora This was built in 1620 The centre is To the west of the fort is the
de la Peña de Francia for Juan Antonio occupied by a stage Playa Jardín – the town’s
The triple-naved cathedral Lutzardo de Francha used for musical longest beach.
was built in 1684–97. Its tall and is the oldest house concerts. Many tourists
tower was added in the late in town. Following the enjoy watching chess Y Parque Taoro
19th century. destruction of Garachico games played with This majestic park is an
In the dark interior of the it became the seat of giant pieces on a enchanting spot and a good
church the eye is drawn to the governor and chessboard that has place to escape the bustle of Playa Jardín, a popular beach with tourists
Baroque sculptures – the work from 1706 to 1833 Town crest at been constructed of
of the local artist Fernando served as the customs Plaza de Europa paving stones.
Estévez, and José Luján Pérez, house. The building
a well-known island artist. No was restored in the 1970s and E Museo Arqueológico
less precious are the paintings now houses a shop selling C/Lomo, 4. § 922 371 465. n
by Luís de la Cruz. The old furniture and handicrafts. # 10am–1pm & 5–9pm Tue–Sat, 3
cathedral’s organ was brought 10am–1pm Sun. &
from London in 1814. P Puerto Pesquero This small museum, opened
A bust of Augustín de The history of this in 1991, is devoted to the
Bétancourt (1758–1824), picturesque fishing harbour, history and cultural heritage
founder of the Engineering situated on a small, stony of the Canary Islands. Its 4 h
College in Madrid, stands in beach, goes back to the 18th exhibits include a collection
front of the church.
5

P Calle Quintana
The street leads to Punta del
Viento, a terrace poised on
the edge of the ocean and 2
affording a fine view over the
1
rocky coast and Lago N
Martiánez. Branching off 6
eastwards is Calle de San h
Telmo, a seaside promenade 7
with stone seats and n
numerous bars. The Monopol N
Hotel – one of the oldest
hotels in Puerto de la Cruz –
stands in Calle Quintana. View of the entrance to Puerto Pesquero fishing harbour
114 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 115

Loro Parque HECKLIST

ROM THE DAY it opened in 1972, this tropical Puerto de la Cruz, C/San Felipe.
F plant complex has been hugely popular and
has been visited by over 11 million tourists. 8:30am–5pm daily. & 7
The huge area contains many animals and www.loroparque.com
Free transport by tram from
birds, magnificent orchids and dragon trees. Playa Martiánez (every 20 min).
It offers numerouss tourist attractions, including natural habitat,,
shows of performiing seals, parrots and enabling the
dolphins. It even has a bat cave! The entrance inhabitants
to the park leads through an authenic Thai to forget that
village. Built in 19993 it consists of six buildings . Dolphinarium they are living
which were constr
shipped in section
were reassembled
0-

of Fish
of fish swim insside
minated glass
more than 8 m
0-
Jaguars all, which standss
Two jaguars live in he Penguin Hou use.
reconstructed volca
landscape. You can
see them through a m-
series of large wind
-m
Alligato

Parrot h
m
h

0-

le number of
ive out their dayys in
m freedom in the ppark,
- ea of 3,500 sq m
q yards).

S TAR A TTRACTIONS
. Dolphinarium
walkway allows . Penguin House
visitors to watch
sharks swimming . Shark Aquarium
directly overhead.

L formed in the course of several powerful

volcanic eruptions, is a natural fortress and served
natural works of art. # 9am–6:30pm daily.

as a refuge for the last Benahoares when the

Spanish invaded in the 15th cen ntury. Some of its Pico de la Cruz
walls reach up to 2,000 m (6,560 ft). Awarded This is one of park’s
Roque de los Muchachos highest peaks. A
national park status in 1954, thee crater has many Six telescopes have been
h ll i 4 5
walking trails (some walks requ ui
head for heights!). No roads run n
the park, and walkers should ma
take with them enough water an n

Trail tto Roque de los Muchachos

l, running along the highest peaks of
a de Tabburiente, provides a view over
e stunnningly steep walls of the crater,
Caldera de Taburiente shrouded with dense fog.
The lush vegetation, mucch of it un
ni
and the bare, rugged summmits of th
t La Cumbrecita
shrouded in mist, appeal to lovers o A good asphalt
road leads to
A STRONOMICAL O B SERVATTO n
La Cumbrecita,
which has an
Thanks to their clear skies, the Caan information
Islands are regarded as on ne of thee point. This is
places for conducting observations
cosmos. The International Astroph hy
a good point
Observatory near Roque de los Mu u of departure
was opened in 1985, in thee presen nc for exploring
King Juan Carlos and manyy Europ pe the park.
heads of state. Six telescopes, incllu
the largest Anglo-Dutch one, name as
William Herschel and measuring 442 ail
(165 inches) in diameter, are used d ry
night observations. There is thereffo
ban between 8pm and 9am on thee
La
lights while driving in the park (on n ta
hn
year the entire island switches off i mo
to make certain experiments possiib as,
ws
h est
nd
n
se.

The Herschel telescope inside the observatory

INTRODUCING THE
CANARY ISLANDS

P U T T I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S O N T H E M A P 10–11
A P O R T R A I T O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 12–23
T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 24–27
T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 28–35
10 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

aP

g
Sa
an
ant
nta C
Cruz
de r fe
La

an
d
k g
i iano
g k

de k
Puerto
Pue to de E

Colourful houses on the hills of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

 P U T T I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S O N T H E M A P 11

k
a
g

g
S
O

to
o del Rosariio
g
k

u
ui

g L
de
g
g
M

an
n k

W ESTERN E UROPE AND N ORTH

FRANCE

PORTUG
GA L

MADEIRA
A

ALGERIA

SAHARA
MAURITANIA
12 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

The Formation of the Canary Islands

LONG WITH OTHER ATLANTIC islands, such as
A Madeira, the Azores and the Cape Verde
Islands, the Canaries are of volcanic origin.
They emerged from the sea millions of years
ago: Lanzarote and Fuerteventura are believed
to be the oldest at between 16 and 20 million
years old, with Gran Canaria, Tenerife and La
Gomera appearing around 8–13 million years
ago. The remaining islands are much younger.
Most of the islands lie in the shadow of a
central volcanic cone surrounded by smaller
cones and areas of solidified lava.
Near El Golfo (see p91) on Lanzarote
is a crater filled with seawater. A black
sand beach separates the ocean from the
grey-green waters of the lake.

La Geria’s vineyards on Lanzarote

(see p94) flourish in the fertile volcanic
soil. Semi-circles of stones protect the
vines from the prevailing winds, and the
resulting grapes are used to produce
the amber-coloured Malvasía wine.

T HE O RIGIN OF THE I SLANDS

The Canary Islands are the tips of vo c ust
pushed up from the floor of the Atlantic Ocean Upper
by the movement of the Earth’s crust. As the mantle Dense lower
crust buckled along fault lines, hot liquid mantle
rock or magma burst up through the cracks.

Los Azulejos on Gran Canaria

show the beauty of the multi-
coloured volcanic rocks. Their
varied chemical compositions,
including copper salts and iron
hydrites, create a stunning
palette of colours from grey and
brown, through ochre and red,
to blue and green.
 T H E F O R M A T I O N O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 13

E VOLUTION OF
V OLCANIC I SLANDS
The islands in this archipelago
are at various stages in their
geological evolution. Tenerife,
El Hierro, Lanzarote and La
Palma are still volcanically
active, with the latter
experiencing its most recent
eruption in 1971.
Fissures Feeder dyke
Malpaís means “badlands” and refers to this almost
completely barren landscape on Fuerteventura (see p78).
Only the most desert-hardened flora and fauna survive here.

Transform fault
Mantle Magma Basalt lava
Atlas fault
chamber flow
Crust

The islands of La Gomera,

1 El Hierro and La Palma are
really the tops of volcanoes that
rise from the ocean’s bed. They
consist of basalt rock produced
by solidified lava. Below, the
Earth’s crust bends under the
weight of the islands.

Shallow magma
Caldera chamber

When the magma chamber

2 empties during an eruption,
the top of the cone collapses
downwards. This creates a crater,
known as a caldera – such as
the Caldera de Taburiente on
La Palma. This stage of an
island’s evolution is marked by
abundant flows of lava.

Around La
Restinga on El
Hierro, the fields
of lava assume
fantastic shapes. Sea level Exposed solidified
magma chamber
Fat tongues of
lava, that resemble When the eruption has
solidified tar, are
created by under-
3 ended, the volcano begins to
erode. The mountains of Gran
water volcanic Canaria are in the early stages
eruptions. As the of erosion, while Fuerteventura’s
flowing lava volcanic chambers, with their
rapidly cools it solidified lava, are typical of a
forms large areas more advanced stage of evolution.
of magma nodules.
14 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

Flora of the Canary Islands

HE FLORA OF THE Canary Islands is unique. La
T Gomera, for example, is home to a rare ancient
forest that is now a UNESCO world heritage site.
More than half of the islands’ 1,800 species are
indigenous, and the unusual character of these
exceptional plants has long attracted the attention
of botanists. They are the relics of the old Mediterranean
flora, which became extinct throughout the region
because of changes in climate. The local flora that
remains has survived beca
relatively humid climate o
with a variety of colourful

Canary palm (Phoenix canarien

another indigenous species, inha
scrublands and semi-desert regio
It bears edible fruit, but is regard
mainly as an ornamental plant.

The basalt slopes of volcanoes a

conducive to plant growth. The few species spurge olive has
found here are often indigenous plants, which silvery leaves.
have evolved to be able to retain water.

T HE D RAGON T REE
One of the most unusual plants
in the Canaries, the dragon
tree (Dracaena draco) erupts
into numerous, swollen
branches that end in tufts of
spiky leaves. Its red sap (known as
dragon’s blood) and its fruit were used
as far back as Roman times to make a
medicinal powder, and it was used to
produce pigments, paints and varnishes. Balsamic spurge grows in
One specimen at Icod de los Vinos, on semi-desert areas. Its juice is
Tenerife, known as Drago Milenario, o sometimes made into chewing
is said to be 1,000 years old. gum, but it is also valued as an
ornamental plant.
 F L O R A O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 15

P LANT Z ONES

Erysimum scoparium, a woody, Coastal zones, mostly Semi-desert plants, found

native shrub with lilac rocky, are home to plants above 400 m (1,300 ft),
that can tolerate salt and store water within their
temperature variations. fleshy leaves and stalks.

Low shrubs are found

above 500 m (1,650 ft),
particularly in areas with
a low annual rainfall.

Laurel forests cover the

northern slopes of the
islands, where humidity
is constantly high.

Limonium papillatum
Pine woods occur at up to
2,000 m (6,560 ft). Their
undergrowth consists mainly
of shade-loving shrubs.

Canary samphire (Astydamia

latifolia) is found on the coastal Canary Islands holly is an
basalt rocks of the Canary evergreen shrub, and one of Areas above 2,000 m
Islands. This native genus, the most common (6,560 ft) feature cushion-
with its distinctive fleshy, green inhabitants of the laurel like shrubs. Rock grass
leaves flowers from December forests. Its bark has covers the highest slopes.
until April. medicinal properties.
16 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

The Underwater World

’ favourable
ESPITE THE CANARY ISLANDS
D position on the edge of the tropics, the
waters around the islands are relatively cold.
This explains the relative lack of coral reefs,
which would normally occur at such
latitudes. Nevertheless, the sea conditions are
congenial to many species of fish, mammal
and seaweed. Divers in coastal and offshore
waters will find a rich variety of marine life,
including several species of whales and Long-finned pilot whales (blackfish)
dolphins, shoals of small cardinal fish, huge belongg to the dolphin
p family.
f y The coastal
crabs, colourful parrot-fish a

Sea horse
numbers a
sea-grass, c
shoots by the
The young hatc
out of spawn that
laid by the female in the
male’s brood pouch.

The blue-spotted puffer fish is

so-called due to its habit, when
threatened, of inflating its aliment
canal with air, to scare off the ene

tive, beak-like mouth is nooks of the seabed. Their

formed by large teeth red shells, which can be as
f
fused together.
g much as 20 cm (8 in) in
length, are densely covered
The brown scorpion fish’s markings and colour make with spikes.
it difficult to spot against the rocky sea floor,
despite its large size. The hard spikes
of its dorsal fin deliver venom to its
prey during night hunts. The fish
remains still by day.
 T H E U N D E R W A T E R W O R L D 17

DIVING AND SNORKELLING

IN THE CANARIES

The Moroccan octopus is a common

sight in the areas of rocky seabed that
lie around the Canary Islands. It
This small
catches its prey with its tentacles,
mollusc is
which are armed with suckers. the Murex The Canary Islands provide very
attractive diving grounds. Here,
beginners can gain experience,
while more advanced divers can
explore the underwater caves off
Gran Canaria, La Palma and El
Hierro and the coral reefs near
Lanzarote. The water is at its
clearest between November and
February. The water temperature
of 15–20° C (59–68° F) is also
conducive to diving and snorkel-
ling. However, strong currents,
particularly at greater depths, can
present difficulties for divers.

The conger eel has a blackish body,

T
w paler belly, large head and wide
with
mouth. It is active at night, hiding in
m
caves and cracks during the day.

y eel,
ated,
sharp
ercestt
This
up to
s andd
rocks.

Cardinal fish with their scarlet bodies are

small, fast-moving fish that may be seen
mostly at the entrances to underwater caves.
The male carries the spawn in his mouth.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

Crafts of the Canary Islands

E MBROIDERY
Canary Islands are
HE INHABITANTS OF THE
Tenthusiastic about keeping alive their
strongly rooted tradition of local P RACTISED MAINLY by the
women, the skills and
handicrafts. These include embroidery, styles of Canary Islands’
embroidery are passed
lace-making, basket-weaving, down from mother to
ceramics and woodcarving. Different daughter. The craft of
islands specialize in particular crafts: La embroidery is a source of
Ceramic Gomera is known for its basketware great pride in the areas that
candleholder and pottery that is made without using specialize in it. Gran Canaria
a wheel, while Tenerife is also a is famous for embroidery,
centre for traditional, Guanche-style pots, El Hierro particularly the villages of
produces beautifully woven rugs and bags and the Ingenio (see p64) and Agaete
(see p57), as is La Orotava
town of Ingenio (see p64) Gran Canaria, produces (see pp 108–11) on Tenerife.
some of the best embroidery in the islands. Original patterns, hand-
embroidered onto silk or
of Guanche work. Other linen, are among the
islands also make most exquisite
pieces that are souvenirs that
based on original visitors can take
Guanche designs home. Richly
copied from embroidered bed
archaeological finds linen, tablecloths
and produced by and napkins are
traditional methods. among the most
As on the popular items. The
Spanish mainland, Ornamental water only drawback is
there are tiles, plates vessel their often very high
and vases in the price, which is a
multi-coloured style of the reflection of the skill and time
Moorish inspired azulejos, taken by the embroiderer.
Potter at work in La Orotava for sale in pottery shops. Clothing, especially the
workshop, Tenerife Colourful displays of islands’ national costumes, is
pottery adorn many local decorated with embroidery.
village shops and most White shirts, blouses and
P OTTERY markets will have at least aprons are all adorned with
one stall selling ceramics. open-work frills that are
HANKS TO archaeological Workshops where you can threaded with ribbons.
T discoveries, we now know
that pottery was one of the
view the pots being made
also offer an array of wares
Modern, somewhat garish
copies of these clothes are
best-developed crafts of the that makes choosing difficult. on sale in craft markets.
Guanches – the indigenous
people of the Canary
Islands. Using local clay,
they made vessels of various
shapes and sizes, which they
used for cooking, storing
food and carrying water.
Although locally made
pottery can be found on
all the islands, there are
a few centres that pride
themselves on their
ceramic workshops. La
Gomera, Tenerife and La
Palma are particularly
well known for traditional
pottery. Produced from
dark clay, without the use
of a potter’s wheel, this is
the most popular style of
pottery, and it is regarded
as a classic reinterpretation Traditional embroidery in Betancuria Museum, Fuerteventura
 C R A F T S O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 19

L ACE - MAKING
ACEWORK IS AMONG the
Lmostmoststriking
beautiful and the
of the Canary
Islands’ handicrafts. The
subtlety of the designs and
colours reflects the con-
tinuation of European and
Mediterranean traditions.
There are several small,
specialized co-operatives on
the islands, producing lace
tablecloths and curtains.
These are very popular
among the islanders as well
as the tourists. Unlike
embroidered items, lace- Weaver’s workshop, producing striped carpets
work is not too expensive.
The beautiful openwork these carpets are very Highly regarded for their
tablecloths and placemats popular with the local artistic merit are local
are always produced in population. You will also carpentry and woodwork
white and beige. Their find carpets with regular products. The tradition of
designs usually consist of stripes or with more adorning the surfaces of
symmetrical patterns with sophisticated designs, based wooden gates, doors
abstract or floral motifs, on traditional local and shutters with
featuring circles and suns patterns. Hand-woven carved motifs
linked together to create cloth is still used goes back many
uniform compositions. to make rugs, centuries. Old
Experts regard the lace tapestries and gates and shutters,
produced in Vilaflor, on bags and, until as well as church
Tenerife, as being the most recently, some Long, multi-coloured ornaments, are
beautiful and best quality. elements of the striped carpet often masterpieces
local national cos- of woodcarving.
tumes were also hand-woven. The distinctive wooden
The islands of La Palma balconies and oriels, with
and La Gomera are known their carved brackets and
for their woven products. balustrades, are based on
historic designs. Local trees,
including pine, chestnut and
O THER H ANDICRAFTS beech, provide timber for
many household items such
LWAYS VERY popular with as bowls, spoons and ladles.
A tourists are items woven
from palm leaves or willow.
The timple – a small,
wooden, five-stringed instru-
These include baskets and ment resembling a ukulele
Lace tablecloth from San bowls, which are not –- is a popular souvenir
Bartolomé on Lanzarote designed to last forever, but from the Canary Islands.
are nevertheless very The village of Telde on
reasonably priced. Also for Lanzarote is renowned for
W EAVING sale are the wide-brimmed producing these instruments.
hats that are an
EAVING IS another indispensable part of
W traditional handicraft
that continues to thrive in
farm workers’ clothing.
On religious feast
the Canary Islands, and days, the women of
there are many established the islands wear small
weavers’ shops still working hats with an upturned
in the islands today. As in brim. This local
past centuries, simple hand- fashion has helped to
looms are still used to further a demand for
produce carpets, which are these locally produced,
based on traditional designs. plaited straw hats,
Long and narrow, often with which are light and
randomly mixed colours, airy to wear. Timple-maker at work
20 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

Canary Islands Carnivals

FTEN COMPARED to the extravaganzas in Rio de Janeiro
O and New Orleans, the Santa Cruz carnival in
Tenerife takes place each year in the 10–14 days before
Ash Wednesday. It is one of the largest carnivals in
Europe, with a spectacular display of costumes and
Latin American music. In Gran Canaria, festivities start
when the Tenerife carnival ends. The Carnival Fiesta
in Lanzarote takes place at the beginning of March,
with one in Fuerteventura two weeks later. Although
street parties were banned under the Franco regime,
the tradition of holding carnivals – renamed “winter A candidate for the coveted title
festivals” – survived on the islands, re-emerging in their of “Carnival Queen”
full glory after Spain’s return to democracy in 1975.
T HE C ARNIVAL Q UEEN
HE CARNIVAL begins with
T the election of its queen.
Accompanied by colourful
carnival crowds, the hopeful
candidates arrive in front of
the jury on their lavishly
decorated floats.
The contestants are
usually local beauties, but
any girl may take part in the
competition. The beauty and
grace of the prospective
queens are emphasized by
their magnificent costumes.
The queen’s dress must be
Colourful procession in the streets of Santa Cruz de Tenerife unique and command
general admiration.
evening, the bands and The newly elected queen,
S TREET P ARADES acrobatic displays attracting accompanied by her equally
huge crowds. Keenly fought beautiful ladies-in-waiting,
ACH CARNIVAL has a competitions are held here, reigns over all the carnival
E different theme, which
dictates the character of the
such as one for the best
formation dancing team.
festivities. Her float takes the
place of honour in all the
street parades, the costumes Comedy shows also attract parades and the happy
worn by revellers and the large audiences. The same “sovereign” looks down from
choice of decorations. Street stage provides a venue for her throne, greeting her
processions are held every classical concerts, including cheering carnival subjects
day during the carnival. programmes of choral works. as she passes by.
Organized marchers are
accompanied by floats with
tableaux of historical or
allegorical scenes. Although
just for fun, a considerable
amount of care goes into
creating the music and
costumes for the parades.

T HE S TAGE
NOTHER ESSENTIALelement
A of each carnival is the
stage, which is usually built
in the town centre. A main
venue for night-time revels,
this is where the spectacular
carnival shows are held each Drag show on the stage in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S C A R N I V A L S 21

C HILDREN
ARNIVAL means fun and
C games for everyone, not
just the adults – children also
enjoy the festivities with many
events just for them. They
march in separate “small”
parades and participate in
their own stage shows and
competitions. Little girls
compete for the title of
“Carnival Princess”.
Children’s costumes, made
specially for the occasion, are Children’s dancing display, in colourful costumes
often tiny masterpieces of
dressmaking. They include platform shoes. At night-time, pretending to be someone
traditional Spanish folk drag queens flaunt their else creates a great sense of
dresses, Brazilian samba costumes and demonstrate euphoria and encourages
costumes, fairy-tale and circus their dancing skills. The one masqueraders to let their hair
figures. Pint-sized participants, judged most striking and down and party.
thrilled with the excitement beautiful becomes queen.
and their roles, quickly enter
into the spirit of carnival. T HE B URIAL OF THE
S ARDINE
C ARNIVAL C OSTUMES HE SANTA CRUZ carnival
AND M AKE - UP T ends with a grand funeral
procession, called El Entierro
T OFTEN TAKES months to de la Sardina (the burial of
Icostumes
make the extravagant
and masks and to
the sardine). This ritual is
rooted in the past when
design and construct the carnival was the one occasion
floats, so as soon as one when people could deride
carnival ends, the Canarios such powerful institutions as
begin planning the next. the church. Today, crowds
The general aim is always still dress up as clerical figures.
originality, and the ideas for A Medusa costume, with equally Carried at the head of the
carnival costumes are often lurid make-up procession is an enormous
unique. The shapes and papier-mâché sardine. The
forms of the outfits are “mourners” wail and laugh
inspired by many cultures, M ASQUERADERS as they escort the fish to the
but one indispensable sea. Here it is set alight and
element is an unusual hair- N CONTRAST with the carnival hundreds of fireworks inside
style – the more extravagant
the better.
Imainin Rioprocession
de Janeiro, where the it create an explosive display.

Another important factor consists only of

is the make-up, which often organized groups, in
sets the theme and is an the Canary Islands
integral component of the almost everybody
costume. Carnival events wears a mask and
often include exhibitions costume. Since the
of the most unusual or masquerade fever also
spectacular body paintings. affects tourists, the
parade inevitably turns
into a huge fancy-
D RAG Q UEENS dress ball, with druids,
pirates, samurai
NOTHER NOTABLE feature warriors and comedy
A of the Canary Islands’
carnivals is the drag queens.
figures, such as Charlie
Chaplin or Disney
Mixing with the masquer- cartoon characters,
ading crowds they are packing the streets
conspicuously tall as they and squares. The ever-
walk on their high-heeled, popular game of Carnival reveller, dressed as a pirate
22 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

Sports in the Canary Islands The twisting mountain roads

and extensive wilderness
XTREMELY FAVOURABLEyear-round weather conditions areas make these rallies as
E make the Canary Islands a paradise for all types of
sporting activities. The most popular are, naturally,
challenging as the more
famous rallies held else-
water-based sports such as sailing and windsurfing, where in the world.
Crowds of spectators
but the islands also play host to a variety of spectator gather to watch the main
sports including golf, international car rallies and events, and the finish of a
soccer matches. Although local sports teams and race is usually heralded with
athletes are not represented at international levels, the celebrations. The top event
islanders are keen on sport and enthusiastically is the Michelin Race of
support their soccer teams and the islands’ traditional Champions held on Gran
form of wrestling – lucha canaria. Canaria every year. The
world’s best drivers compete
to determine the year’s
favourable winds. The islands professional rankings.
host numerous international
competitions, which are
attended by world-class C YCLE R ACING AND
surfers. Local surfers often M OUNTAIN B IKING
triumph in the minor events.
The best-known “long- PANISH CYCLISTS are among
board” competitions are S the world’s best, and
Trofeo O’Neil de Surf (O’Neil cheering spectatators line the
surfing trophy), held on El routes of the many inter-
Socorro beach in Tenerife, national events that are held
and Festival Longboard de here. Vuelta Ciclista a
Canarias (Canary Island España, held in Gran Canaria,
Longboard Festival) held at is considered to be one of
Playa de la Caleta, in Gran the world’s top
Canaria. Copa cycling events.
Federación de Non-competi-
Competitor on Caldera de Bodyboard tive cycling is
Bandama golf course (Bodyboard also popular, and
Federation Cup) is a great way to
was held here in enjoy the islands’
GOLF 2001 as part of beauty. There are
the European Participant in Rally tour packages or
HERE ARE16 excellent golf Championships. Isla Gran Canaria you can rent
T courses in the Canary
Islands – on Gran Canaria,
mountain bikes at
a variety of places.
Lanzarote, Tenerife, La C AR R ALLIES
Gomera and Fuerteventura –
and the all-year-round con- S IN MAINLAND SPAIN , car T RIATHLON
ditions make this an ideal
choice for a golfing holiday.
A rallies are very popular
in the Canary Islands and INCE 1992, Lanzarote has
The islands host such events
as the PGA Spanish Open.
the events held here are
attended by many of the
Smanplayed host to the Iron-
Triathlon event, which
The Shell Wonderful World world’s top competitors. involves a 3.8 km (2.3 miles)
of Golf competition is a fun
event held in Tenerife.

S URFING
OCAL SURFINGconditions in
Lmagnificent
the Canary Islands are
and, for Euro-
pean enthusiasts, have the
advantage of being only a
short flight away. Lanzarote,
Fuerteventura and Gran
Canaria are regarded as
having the best conditions,
with good waves and Surfer competing in Gran Canaria
 S P O R T S I N T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 23

the top teams is Idecent

Guaguas from Las Palmas.
Among the leaders of the
Spanish league are Hotel
Centaur of Gran Canaria. CV
Construcciones Marichal of
Tenerife is not only one of
the best teams in Spain, but
also in Europe.

S OCCER
HE SPANISH – and this
T includes the inhabitants
of the Canary Islands – are
At the finishing line of a triathlon event in Lanzarote great soccer fans. Almost
every small town on the
swim, a 42.2 km (26 miles) islands has its own football
run and a 180 km (112 miles) V OLLEYBALL stadium. At present two
cycle ride. This event is held Canary teams – Unión
in May at the Playa del OLLEYBALL IS PLAYED on Deportivo Las Palmas and
Carmen and is very popular
with athletes and spectators.
V beaches across the resorts
of the islands. But this is also
Club Deportivo Tenerife –
play in Spain’s Second
a spectator sport of inter- Division. Although not the
national standard. One of best in the league, they have
W INDSURFING their faithful supporters, as
do other minor teams in
HE CANARY ISLANDSrank lower ranking leagues.
T among the world’s best
windsurfing venues, and this
Apart from the regular
league games, there are also
is borne out by the fact that a number of major soccer
the world champion of the events. The traditional soccer
sport, Björn Dukenberg, lives tournament in Maspalomas
and trains here. El Médano takes place during the winter
in Tenerife is acknowledged months. Its participants
as one of the world’s great include some well-known
windsurfing centres. first-league teams from
The islands play host to Germany, Denmark and
several events in the World England. The Mundialito (the
Cup series, including the little world cup), held in
Grand Prix de Fuerteventura. Gran Canaria, attracts thou-
Several major regattas are Windsurfing competition at Pozo sands of young soccer players
held in Grand Canaria, such Isquiero beach from around the world.
as Gran Canaria PWA Gran
Slam in Pozo Izquierdo.
LUCHA CANARIA
The local version of wrestling – lucha canaria – is an
S AILING AND D IVING extremely popular sport in the Canary Islands. Each team
consists of two members, but the competitors fight
AILING enjoys enormous individually. Each pair
Sthepopularity here – one of
great enthusiasts of the
plays a match consisting
of three rounds and the
sport and a member of the winning team is the one
Spanish international team is that wins most rounds.
King Juan Carlos himself. The rules forbid the
Several sailing events are competitors to kick, hit
held in the islands each or pinch. During the
year. Yachts and dinghies fight they are allowed to
may be also be hired. touch the floor only
The clear warm waters with the soles of their
around the islands are feet. Competitors fight in
attractive for divers, partic- a ring measuring 9–10
ularly off Tenerife and m (30–33 ft) in diameter, Two competitors in a Lucha canaria
Lanzarote. Marine parks covered with sand. wrestling match
offer diving packages.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

THE CANARY ISLANDS

THROUGH THE YEAR
HE INHABITANTS of the the fiesta, people abandon

T Canary Islands are

deeply devoted to
tradition – a fact that is
their work to pray, dance
and join colourful parades.
Fiestas in the Canary Islands
tend to last for several days,
reflected in the numerous
religious feast days, or some for as long as two or
fiestas, that they celebrate. three weeks. In the Islands’
Some of these traditions go larger cities such fiestas are
back to the time of the often accompanied by music,
Guanches (see pp30–31). carnival Tenerife 1996 theatre and cinema festivals,
souvenir
Fiestas are normally asso- and some have an inter-
ciated with the cult of saints, national flavour. Of the other
and in particular with various patron events on the islands, sporting events,
saints. In agricultural areas, fiestas and particularly lucha canaria and
mark the end of the harvest. During soccer, attract enormous crowds.

There are displays of classic Gran Canaria. Music and

folk dancing, and almonds, dancing mark the final
wines and sweets are uprising of the Guanches
distributed by each village. against the Spanish and
Rally El Corte Inglés Spain’s victory over the island.
(Mar/Apr), Gran Canaria.
Car rally attracting M AY
international
competitors. Festival de Ballet
Semana Santa y Danza (May), Las
(Mar/Apr), all islands. Palmas de Gran
Holy Week, with Canaria. Concerts and
a Good Friday dance performances.
procession. Fiesta del Queso del
Flor (30 Apr–7 May),
A PRIL Santa María de Guía,
Flowering apple trees at the foot Gran Canaria. Much
of Roque Nublo, Gran Canaria Fiesta de Juventud Bunch of ripe eating of cheese in
(5 Apr), Lajita, bananas this small town famed
Fuerteventura. Feast for its production.
S PRING day of the Virgin Mary. Feria del Caballo (1 May)
Fiesta de los Pastores in Valsequillo is an annual
year-round
LTHOUGH THE r La Dehesa, El
(25 Apr), horse market.
A mild climate of the
Canary Islands gives the
Hierro. The annual feast of
the island’s shepherds.
Romería de San Isidro
(15 May) in Uga, Lanzarote.
impression of perpetual Fiesta de Ansite (29 Apr), Elaborate procession.
spring, true spring weather
is most noticeable between
March and May. Then the
landscape is at its greenest.
This is also the season of
intense rainfall, particularly
on Tenerife.

M ARCH
Fiesta del Almendro en
Flor (early Mar)r all islands.
The fiesta of almond blossom,
is celebrated on a grand scale
in the towns of Tejeda and
Valsequillo, Gran Canaria. Traditional fiesta procession on El Hierro
 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 25

Hours of Sunshine
AVERAG The islands differ
Hours considerably in their
10 daily hours of
sunshine: Lanzarote
8 and Fuerteventura
enjoy about 12 hours
6
of sunshine per day
4 in August; northern
parts of Tenerife and
2 Gran Canaria can
sometimes be cloudy,
0 while the southern
Jan Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
regions of the islands
bask in sunshine.

S UMMER
N SUMMER , temperatures
I35°inCthe(95°islands can reach
F). During July
and August, there is very
little rainfall, except in
the region of Las Palmas de
Gran Canaria. In August, the
crowds of foreign tourists
are swollen by holiday-
makers from the Spanish
mainland. This is when Crowded beaches of Puerto del Carmen, Lanzarote
most fiestas take place.
Commemorates the town’s the patron saint of fishermen.
foundation with a big party. Día de Santiago Apóstol
Bajada de Nuestra Señora (25 Jul), Santa Cruz, Tenerife.
de las Nieves (every 5 years, Celebrates Spain’s patron
end Jun), Santa Cruz de la saint and the town’s defeat
Palma. Amazing costumes, of the English and Nelson.
and a lavish procession at
this important festival. A UGUST
Día de San Pedro y San
Pablo (29 Jun), is the feast Bajada de la Rama (4 Aug),
of St Peter and St Paul. Agaete, Gran Canaria. This
colourful fiesta has its roots
J ULY in the Guanches’ rain dance.
Día de San Bartolomé
Bajada de la Virgen de los (24 Aug), in San Bartolomé,
Reyes (every 4 years, early Lanzarote. Processions, music
Jul). El Hierro. A fabulous and dancing honour the saint.
Gathering cochineal insects on a procession and party. Fiesta de San Ginés (25
prickly pear plantation Festival Internacional Aug), Arrecife, Lanzarote.
Canarias Jazz & Mas Hei- Feast of St Gines, the patron
J UNE neken (three weeks in Jul), saint of the town of Arrecife.
all islands. Jazz concerts by
Corpus Christi (Jun), all international musicians.
islands. Celebrations include Fiesta de San Marcial del
processions, and are at their Rubicon (one week in Jul),
most colourful in Las Palmas, Femés and Yaiza. Celebrates
Gran Canaria, and La Laguna, Lanzarote’s patron saint.
and La Orotava, Tenerife. Día de San Buenaventura
Festival Internacional (14 Jul), Bentacuria,
de Música Popular (Jun), Fuerteventura. The town’s
Las Palmas. Folk music and patron saint processes
dancing performed by both through the streets.
local and visiting groups. Fiesta del Carmen (16 Jul),
Día de San Juan (24 Jun), Gáldar, Gran Canaria. Party Bajada de Nuestra Señora de las
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. and procession in honour of Nieves, La Palma
26 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

Rainfall
The average monthly
rainfall in the Canary
Islands rarely exceeds
50 mm (2 in). La
Palma and La Gomera
have the highest
rainfall, Lanzarote
and Fuerteventura the
lowest. The rain is
more frequent in
Tenerife and Gran
0 Canaria, particularly
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
on the northern shores
of the islands.

Fiesta de la Virgen de la
Peña (3rd Sat in Sep).
Celebration of the patron
saint of Fuerteventura.
Fiesta del Santísimo Cristo
(late Sep) La Laguna,
Tenerife. A spectacular fiesta
featuring firework displays, a
vintage car rally and lucha
canaria tournaments.

O CTOBER
Bajada de la Virgen de
Fiesta of San Miguel Arcangel in Tuineje Guadelupe (5 Oct), La
Gomera. Fishermen carry a
produce to the patron saint statue of the Virgin Mary
A UTUMN of Gran Canaria. from Puntallana to San
Fiesta del Charco (7–11 Sebastián by sea.
UTUMN DOES not differ Sep), San Nicolás, La Palma. Fiesta de la Naval (6 Oct),
A much from summer,
except that high daytime
Participants jump into a pool
of salt water to catch fish.
Las Palmas, Gran Canaria.
Festival to celebrate victory
temperatures give way to Romería de Nuestra over Sir Francis Drake.
somewhat cooler nights. Señora de Los Dolores Romería de Nuestra
Large temperature (21 Sep), Lanzarote. A Señora de la Luz (mid-
differences may be felt at pilgrimage to the sanctuary Oct), Las Palmas, Gran
higher altitudes on Tenerife of Los Dolores (St Mary Canaria. Procession of boats
or Gran Canaria, where you of the Volcanoes), in at sea celebrate the Virgin.
can find yourself suddenly Mancha Blanca. Festival Internacional de
enveloped in fog, with a Cine de Las Palmas
rapid drop in temperature. (Oct–Nov), Gran Canaria.
Film festival attracting many
S EPTEMBER international movie stars.

Encuentro Internacional N OVEMBER

Tres Continentes (Sep),
Agüimes, Gran Canaria. International Ecological
Exciting international theatre Film Festival Puerto de la
festival, with European, Latin Cruz, Tenerife. Shows films
American and African groups. that are devoted mainly to
Columbus Week (1–6 Sep), the Canary Islands.
San Sebastián, La Gomera. Feast of the Teide Volcano
Shows and processions cele- (16 Nov) Guía de Isora,
brate Christopher Columbus. Tenerife. Celebrates Spain’s
Fiesta de la Virgen del highest mountain.
Pino (6–8 Sep) Teror, Gran Atlantic Rally for Cruisers
Canaria. The island’s most (last Sun in Nov), Gran
important celebration Canaria. A transatlantic rally
includes an evening pro- Fishing, an all-year-round for yachts from Las Palmas
cession with offerings of occupation in the Canary Islands to the Caribbean.
 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 27

Temperature
AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE The mild climate of
°C the Canary Islands
30 produces average
temperatures of
25 between 18° C
20 (64° F) in the winter
and 24° C (75° F)
15
in the summer
10 months. The climate
5 on Fuerteventura and
Lanzarote is generally
0 harsher than that
Ja c
in Tenerife and
Gran Canaria.

in Las Palmas’ Teatro Pérez

W INTER Galdós and Tenerife’s Teatro
Guimerá.
ANY PEOPLE decide to Carnival (Feb/Mar), all
M spend the winter months
on the Canary Islands, not
islands. Several weeks of
partying and masquerades
least because of the mild commence with the election
climate at this time of the of the carnival queen.
year. For this reason, the Romería de la Virgen
height of the tourist season Gale-stricken ship listing off de Candelaria (2 Feb and
on the Canary Islands is from the coast of Lanzarote 15 Aug), Candelaria, Tenerife.
December to February. Candlemas. The Feast of the
Although the peak of the J ANUARY Virgin Mary, the patron saint
Teide volcano is sometimes of the islands, is celebrated
covered with snow, the Festival de Música de in style to commemorate the
coastal areas remain warm. Canarias (Jan/Mar), most day on which the Virgin
islands. Classical music appeared to the Guanches.
D ECEMBER concerts with international
orchestra and soloists.
Día de Santa Lucia (13 Soccer Tournament P UBLIC H OLIDAYS
Dec), Gran Canaria. Churches (Jan/Feb), Maspalomas, Gran Año Nuevo New Year’s
and villages are illuminated Canaria. For European clubs. Day (1 Jan)
for this celebration. Día de los Reyes (6 Jan), Día de los Reyes
Santos Inocentes (28 Dec), all islands. The three kings Epiphany (6 Jan)
all islands. This is the Spanish throw sweets to the children Jueves Santo Maundy
equivalent of April Fools’ at this Epiphany celebration Thursday (Mar/Apr)
Day, when tricks are played. with colourful processions. Viernes Santo Good
Carrera de San Silvestre Friday (Mar/Apr)
(31 Dec), Maspalomas, Gran F EBRUARY Día de Pascua Easter
Canaria. This is the annual (Mar/Apr)
New Year’s Eve run. Festival de Opera (Feb/Mar) Fiesta de Trabajo
Noche Vieja (31 Dec) is the most islands. An international Labour Day (1 May)
New Year’s Eve celebration. opera festival held principally Día de las Islas Canarias
Canary Islands Day
(30 May)
Corpus Christi (early
Jun)
Asunción Assumption of
the Virgin Mary (15 Aug)
Día de la Hispanidad
National Day (12 Oct)
Todos los Santos All
Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Día de la Constitución
Day of the Constitution
(6 Dec)
Inmaculada Concep-
ción (8 Dec)
Navidad Christmas
(25 Dec)
Drag queen in procession during carnival
 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 29

THE HISTORY OF THE

CANARY ISLANDS

T
HE EARLY HISTORY
of the Canary Islands is shrouded in myth
and legend. Some believed the islands to be the lost land of
Atlantis, which, according to Plato, was destroyed by an
earthquake. To others they were known as the Fortunate Islands,
poised at the edge of the world, whose inhabitants
t knew no sorrow.
It is believed that the first Egyptian geographer, Ptolemy,
inhabitants of the Canary represented the islands as the
Islands came from North edge of the world. Following
Africa, and probably arrived the fall of the Roman Empire,
here around 3,000 BC. Europe forgot the Canaries
Although scholars disagree for over 1,000 years.
about the origins of the
islands’ early dwellers, CONQUEST OF THE
one prominent theory is CANARY ISLANDS
that they were Neolithic The Canary Islands
people from the Cro- Idol from Tara – a statuette were rediscovered by
Magnon era. Typically from the time of the Guanches Mediterranean sailors. In
they were tall and well- 1312, Captain Lanzarotto
built with narrow skulls. (or Lancelotto) Malocello, a native
Around the second century BC, of Genoa, reached the furthest north-
the islands became populated by east island, where he encountered
the next wave of arrivals – the the native population, the Guanches.
Guanches. Their origins have also The island was subsequently named
not been clearly established. It is after him – Lanzarote.
believed that prior to the conquest Throughout the 14th century,
of the islands by Spain in the 15th Italians, Portuguese and Catalans
century, the Guanche population of sent their ships to the islands to
the islands consisted of some 30,000 bring back slaves and furs.
in Gran Canaria and Tenerife, over The rapid process of the islands’
4,000 in La Palma, over 1,000 in El conquest began in 1402, when the
Hierro and a few hundred in Norman knight, Jean de Béthen-
Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. court, arrived in Lanzarote. Two
The ancients knew about the years later, he returned with the
islands: their sailors used to visit backing of the Castilian crown.
them and information about the Encountering little resistance, the
archipelago can be found in the conquistadors took over the sparsely
writings of Roman historians. In AD populated islands of El Hierro, La
150, a fairly accurate map by the Gomera and Fuerteventura.

T IMELINE
2nd–1st century 1402–1405 Jean de
BC Arrival of AD 24 Campaign of the Béthencourt conquers
Guanches Moorish King Juba II Lanzarote, Fuerteventura
and El Hierro
3350 BC AD 1 350 700 1050 1400
3,000 BC Arrival of AD 150 Ptolemy plots the 1312 Lanzarotto
African migrants position of the Canary Islands Malocello lands on
on his world map the most north-
easterly island of the
archipelago
Anaterue – Guanche chieftain

Christopher Columbus, discoverer of the Americas

30 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

The Guanches
of the
HE ANCIENT INHABITANTS
T Canary Islands were known as
the Guanches from the words “guan”,
(meaning “man”) and “che”, (meaning
“white mountain”), referring to the
snow-capped Teide volcano on
Guanche Tenerife. According to Spanish
clay pot historical records, the Guanches were
tall, strongly built, blue-eyed and blond-
haired. Their origins and date of arrival on the islands Rock Carvings
are still unknown, as is the language they spoke. These rock carvings, many
Their society was based on a tribal structure, with a of which have been pre-
king or chieftain at its head. They worshipped Abor served, once adorned caves
– a powerful god who could bring rain and stop inhabited by the Guanches.
the flow of lava. Their tools and weapons were
produced from roughly cut wood, stone and bone. Guanche family in
their cave

Rock Paintings
Cave paintings bear testimony to
the artistic skill of the Guanches.
Cueva Pintada, near Gáldar on
Gran Canaria, is decorated with
striking red, white and black
geometric patterns.

Quern
The Guanches
used querns
(mills) made D AILY L IFE OF THE G UANCHES
from lava to One of three small mosaics in the town park in
grind barley, Santa Cruz de Tenerife illustrates the life of the
to make their Guanche tribe during peacetime. In a landscape
staple, a porridge and climate similar to that of the present day, the
known as gofio. Guanches cultivated land and raised animals.

Cave Dwelling
The Guanches lived in
natural caves, such as
Cueva de Belmaco, or
in grottos carved into
the rocks. Caves also
served as granaries and
as places of worship,
and were also used to
bury the dead.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 31

Domestic Animals
Goats and sheep are the
only animals that can
find food in the hard
mountainous terrain of
the Canary Islands. The
Guanches depended on
these animals to supply
them with skins, milk
and meat.

Shepherds fought
daily battles for better
grazing grounds for
their flocks of sheep
and goats. In the face
of external dangers,
they would unite and
become warriors.

Guanche Chief
Guanches were led
into battles by
their tribal kings,
known as
“guanarteme” in
Gran Canaria and
as “menceyes” in
Tenerife and La
Palma.

Long, strong
poles or spears
were used as
weapons in
battles and were
also useful when
traversing the
difficult moun-
tainous terrain.

R EMAINS OF THE G UANCHE C ULTURE

Apart from the caves, the early indiginous population lived in
somewhat primitive, low huts built of stone, such as those that
have been partially reconstructed in the ethnographic park Mundo
Aborigen, in Gran Canaria. The bodies of the tribal elders were
mummified, and you can see them today in Canary museums,
along with stone and bone ornaments, clay pots and woven bags.

The mummified
skull of a Guanche,
its orifices plugged
with beeswax, is one
of many such items
kept in the Museo de
la Naturaleza y el
Circular Guanche tombs in Mundo Aborigen Hombre in Tenerife.
32 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

extinct” and that their

language had not survived
the century following their
subjugation by Spain.

THE SUGAR ERA

The 16th century brought
about a rapid growth in the
numbers of European settlers
on the islands, particularly
in Gran Canaria and Tenerife.
Founding of Santa Cruz de Tenerife Sugar cane, imported from
Madeira, was used to pro-
T HE 15 TH C ENTURY duce sugar, which quickly became
The Portuguese followed in the foot- the main export from each island.
steps of the Spanish conquistadors in Large sugar-cane plantations sprang
the mid-15th century. The rivalry up, employing European workers and
between the two seafaring African slaves, despite the
powers lasted until 1479, ban on the slave trade
when the Alcá˜ovas Treaty introduced by Spain in
gave the Canary Islands to 1537. This industry resulted
Spain, who, in return, let in the transformation of the
Portugal annex the local ecosystem. Stripped
Azores, the Cape Verde of their trees, forests gave
Islands and Madeira. Mosaic depicting the ship of way to sugar-cane fields
The following years Christopher Columbus and bare slopes became
brought a new wave of prone to erosion.
bloody conquests: 1483 saw the fall The growth of the sugar industry
of Gran Canaria, followed five years was halted by the colonization of
later by La Gomera and, in 1496, La America and the Caribbean where
Palma. In 1495, following three years sugar could be produced more cheaply.
of intense battles, Tenerife,
which had put up the
fiercest resistance, fell into
the hands of the Spanish.
The Guanches, deprived of
their land and forced into
slavery, were soon dying
out. Those who survived
were forcibly converted to
Christianity and became
assimilated.
In 1541, Girolamo
Benzoni, an Italian visiting
the islands, noted that the
Guanches were “nearly Castillo San Miguel, guarding Garachico against pirates

T IMELINE
1478–1483 The Spanish, 1494–1496 Occupation of 1537 The Spanish introduce a ban
led by Juan Rejón and Tenerife by Alonso Fernán- on the slave trade, which is not
Pedro de Vera, occupy dez de Lugo completes the observed in the Canary Islands
Gran Canaria conquest of the archipelago

1450 1500 1550 1600

1479 The Alcá˜ovas 1590 Descripción de las
Treaty gives the Canary Islas Canarias, by
Islands to Spain Leonardo Torriani
Christopher Columbus
stopped in the Canary
Islands to provision his ships
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 33

T HE W INE T RADE from Europe and

The Canary Islands’ the northwest
economy was coast of Africa,
saved by the harassed the
growing export islands. Several
demand for wine, castles were built
which was during this period
produced mainly to defend port
in Tenerife and entries from
Gran Canaria. So French, Dutch
popular was the and British fleets;
local vino seco Map from around 1600 showing the Canary Islands they also provided
that it was praised situated off the west coast of Africa shelter for the
by the character local population
Falstaff in Shakespeare’s play, Henry when under attack. The last attempt
IV part II. The Canary Islands’ at conquering the Canary Islands was
Company was founded in 1665 in made in 1797 by Admiral Horatio
London, and came to monopolize the Nelson, who launched an attack on
Canary wine trade in Great Britain. Santa Cruz de Tenerife. He not only
At the turn of the 18th century, how- failed to take the town, but lost his
ever, income from wine production arm in the battle. The Governor of
fell drastically. One of the reasons Santa Cruz, in a truly magnanimous
was a plague of locusts from 1685 to gesture, presented the vanquished
1687 that destroyed the vineyards. In enemy with some of the local wine.
addition, the emergence of compe-
tition from new brands of wine from
Madeira and Málaga, and the War of
the Spanish Succession, which Spain
fought with England and Portugal,
reduced the demand.
The closing years of the 18th century
witnessed a further reduction in wine
production and export. This led to the
near total collapse of the economy on
the islands. It was at this time that
carmine – a natural dye obtained from
cochineal insects – became a major
export. To this day the islands are
major exporters of cochineal, used to
produce dye for the food industry.

T HE I SLANDS U NDER A TTACK

Spanish rule of the Canary Islands
was threatened almost from the start.
Throughout the 16th and 17th Ornate Baroque altar from the church, Iglesia de
centuries, pirates and slave traders, Nuestra Señora de la Regla, in Pájara, Fuerteventura

1665 Establishment 1797 British fleet, commanded

of the Canary Islands’ British fleet attacking by Admiral Horatio Nelson,
Company, in London San Sebastián de la attacks Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Gomera
1650 1700 1750
5 1800
1666 Peasants 1706 Garachico 1744 Benedict XIV
destroy English destroyed by the permits Augustine monks
bodegas in eruption of to establish a university in
Garachico Volcán Negra La Laguna El Tigre gun from
Santa Cruz de
Tenerife
34 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S

19 TH - CENTURY
I SLAND R IVALRIES
In 1821, the Canary
Islands became a pro-
vince of Spain, with its
capital in Santa Cruz
de Tenerife. This situa-
tion served to intensify
the rivalry between
the two most popu- Casa de la Coroneles, seat of the Colonels who ruled Fuerteventura
lated islands –
Tenerife and Gran Canaria. In 1852, Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma and El
Queen Isabella II granted duty-free Hierro, and the eastern province
status to the Canary Islands. including Gran Canaria, Fuerte-
In view of the growing ventura and Lanzarote. This divi-
domination of Tenerife in 1911, sion remains in force to this day.
local rule was re-established
on individual islands, thus T HE B ANANA T RADE
weakening the control that The collapse of cochineal
Santa Cruz de Tenerife exer- production in the 1870s led to
cised over the whole a period of mass emigration
archipelago. In 1927, the of Canarios to Latin
rivalry between Santa Manuel Velásquez Cabrera – America. The archi-
Cruz de Tenerife and Las fighter for Canary autonomy pelago’s economy was
Palmas de Gran Canaria saved by bananas, which
led to the division of the archipelago at that time became the main export
into two provinces: the western product. Their cultivation on an
province including the islands of industrial scale was introduced by the
French Consul, S. Berthelot, in 1855.
Production peaked in 1913, when
more than 3 million bunches of
bananas were exported from
Tenerife, Gran Canaria and La Palma.
The outbreak of World War I and
the Allied blockade of the European
continent ruined international trade,
and banana exports dropped by
more than 80 per cent. The ensuing
harsh economic conditions resulted
in a second wave of emigration.

T HE F RANCO E RA
The proclamation of the Second Spanish
Republic in Madrid, in 1931, led to
Elected representatives of the first provincial increased tension. In 1936, fearing a
government of Tenerife, in 1912 coup d’état, the Republican government

T IMELINE
1852 Queen Isabella II proclaims 1882 Works commence on the 1912 Formation of the first
the Canary Islands a construction of Las Palmas island-by-island provincial
free-trade zone harbour (Puerto de la Luz) government

1825 1850 1875 1900

1821 The Canary Islands 1888 First steamer
proclaimed a province of ferry service
Spain, with its capital in begins between
Santa Cruz de Tenerife the islands
Emigrants Monument
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 35

“exiled” General Fran- T HE C ANARY I SLANDS

cisco Franco, a hero of T ODAY
the Moroccan wars, to Changes following
Tenerife. In July 1936, Franco’s death in 1975
Franco seized control of brought about the devo-
the islands, marking the lution of power in Spain
beginning of the Spanish and, in August 1982,
Civil War, which lasted the Canary Islands were
until 1939. Franco’s granted autonomy. Local
Spain was ostracized by authorities are now in
the international commu- control of education,
nity. This hampered health services, and
economic development transport, leaving matters
in the Canary Islands, of defence, foreign
and resulted in yet policy and finances in
more inhabitants emi- the hands of the central
grating during the 1950s. government. In 1986,
Opening the borders to Spain became a mem-
sun-seeking European ber of the European
tourists in the 1960s Union (EU).
failed to improve the General Francisco Franco, the ruler Today, mass tourism
situation. Growing resis- of Spain until 1975 accounts for some 80
tance to Franco fed on per cent of the islands’
the fertile ground of revived Canary revenue. However, on the smaller
nationalism. The MPAIC movement, islands the economy still relies on
founded in 1963, became the vehicle agriculture and fishing. High unem-
of the islands’ drive for indepen- ployment and low wages continue to
dence. In the late 1970s, companies create problems. These, along with
and military establishments on the the need to protect the environment,
Spanish mainland became targets for present the greatest challenge to
terrorist attacks by the nationalists. today’s provincial authorities.

Golden beaches of Maspalomas, crowded with tourists

1927 Division of 1982 The Canary Islands 1986 Entry of

the archipelago become an autonomous region Spain and the
into two Mass tourism begins to of Spain Canary Islandss into
provinces develop in the 1960s the EU
1925 1950 1975 2000
1930 Building
of an airport in 1936 General Franco seizes control of
Gran Canaria the Canary Islands, leading to the
outbreak of the Spanish Civil War Colourful carnival is
the most popular
fiesta on the islands
 THE CANARY
ISLANDS AREA
BY AREA

G R A N C A N A R I A 40–65
F U E R T E V E N T U R A 66–79
L A N Z A R O T E 80–95
T E N E R I F E 96–121
L A G O M E R A 122–131
E L H I E R R O 132–139
L A P A L M A 140–151
38 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

The Canary Islands at a Glance

HE CANARY ISLANDS are diverse enough to cater for all
T tastes, from the individual traveller to groups on
package holidays. Those who shy away from the noisy
modern resorts of Tenerife and Gran Canaria can find

juniper trees that grow here,

twisted into strange shapes 0 km 30
by ceaseless winds.
0 miles 50

Yachts in Puerto Rico marina, Gran Canaria

 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A T A G L A N C E 39

Haria (see p88),

a small town lying
in a valley, is
reminiscent of a
Saharan oasis
with its low,
hi h d

Puerto Rico (see p60) is a modern resort on the islands.

south coast of Gran Canaria, offering facilities for
all kinds of water sports and fishing and diving trips.
 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 41

GRAN CANARIA

L
YING AT THE HEART of the archipelago and occupying an area of
1,533 sq km (599 sq miles), Gran Canaria is the third largest of
the Canary Islands. It is one of the most densely populated
islands, with 805,000 inhabitants – more than one third of the entire
population of the archipelago. It is also the one of the most popular
islands, attracting some 2.5 million visitors each year.

The centre of Gran Canaria is Gran Canaria enjoys a mild

occupied by the rocky volcano climate throughout the year,
summit of Pico de las Nieves with an average air temper-
(see pp62–3). The mountain ature of 21° C (70° F). Water
sides, sloping towards the temperature, however, is
ocean, are criss-crossed by somewhat lower than aver-
deep canyons. age for these latitudes, due
The island is divided by a to a cool current flowing
mountain range into two from the Gulf of Mexico.
climatic zones. The northern The island was conquered
part is more humid and between 1478 and 1483 by
fertile, with long stretches of Farmer with his the Spanish, led by Pedro de
donkey
banana plantations running Vera, and fully colonized
along the coast, while the during the 1520s. Today it
southern part is dry and hot. offers a multitude of tourist attrac-
The island’s landscape displays tions. Las Palmas has museums and
similar diversity, with the northern historic buildings alongside its own
and western coasts steep and rocky, beach, the Playa de las Canteras,
and the eastern and southern slopes with its nightclubs, cafés and shops.
falling gently towards the sea. This In contrast, in the rugged environs of
diversity has given Gran Canaria the Pico de las Nieves hikers can follow
nickname of a “miniature continent”. the trails of the Guanches’ culture.

Stage in a square in Puerto de Mogán

Tourists on the dunes around Maspalomas

42 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring Gran Canaria

RAN CANARIA IS THE SECOND MOST frequently
G visited island of the archipelago (after
Tenerife). Each year it receives over 2.5 million
A T L A N T I C
SANTA CRUZ
OCE A N

DE TENERIFE
FE
visitors, who are attracted by its fine scenery,
consistently mild climate and numerous tourist
AS PALMAS
attractions. The island’s DE GRAN CANARIA
situated in the northea
history (see pp29–35),
reflected in its delightfu
museums. Sun-seekers
southern parts of the is
guaranteed all year rou q
of the largest, purpose-
0
ments in Spain. At its h N
with its vast hotels, res
theques and, above all N
g IA
A
w
G ETTING T HERE
Gran Canaria has scheduled
with all the islands in the ar
and with mainland Spain, a
flights from many European
regular ferries to Tenerife, L
Fuerteventura. Gran Canaria J
network of bus routes, but t
of the villages, particularly t
centre of the island, you wi
a car. Most of the island’s ro
minor, are well surfaced.

e
i
S EE A LSO
• Where to Stay pp156–157

• Where to Eat pp168–170

Walking trail in the mountain

Presa de los Hornos, near Pic
 G R A N C A N A R I A 43

K EY
Motorway/Highway

Major road

Minor road

Scenic route

on the coast near Gáldar

1
7
9
8 S AT A G LANCE
w
p
7
6 A o de Guayadeque s
2 de Bandama 3
8
4 3 q
a
de San Nicolás e
5 mas de Gran Canaria
d 51 1
mas y

e Mogán r
ico t
olomé de Tirajana u
ígida 4
k cía o
s
aría de Guía
a
u an Canaria 0
o ta 2
p
d

San Mateo 5

Pico de las Nieves

63 i

y
n Palmitos Parque,
palomas
44 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Las Palmas

de Gran Canaria 1
HE LARGEST T
T Palmas was
the Spanish con
an important p
African contine
The town’s we
Las Palmas pirates – in 159
town crest plundered Las
century, Sir Alf
Gran Canaria Coal Compan
to flourish. The port becam
the transatlantic route and
it. In 1927, Las Palmas bec
province of the Canary Isla
Canaria, Fuerteventura and

Plaza de Santa A
The entrances t
square are gua
by bronze statu
dogs – symboliz
the legendary
which, since 1
has appeared
town’s crest
C
de Ba

Plaza del Espirítu Santo

This charming square, to the
the cathedral, has a striking,, monu- . Museo Canario
mental fountain at its centre. There The museum houses the Canary Islands’
are also a number of historic houses largest collection of exhibits relating to the
and the Chapel of the Holy Spirit. history and culture of the Guanches.
 L A S P A L M A S D E G R A N C A N A R I A 45

San Antonio Abad

This small church was built V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
* 370,000. k 16 km
(10 miles) south. § 928 579
130, 928 579 094. @ Estación
de Guaguas. § 928 360 179.
n Parque de San Telmo.
§ 928 219 600. ` 928 229
820. ( Sun.
_ Carnival (Jan–Feb); Festival
Internacional de Cine de Las
Palmas (Mar); Día de San Juan
(24 Jun).

Centro Atlántico
C
M
Moderno (CAAM)
Ceentre of Modern Art
was opened in 1989.
w

as
tiion
nissh
n
ngs
thhe
e

S TAR S IGHTS
. Casa de Colón
wooden balconies. . Catedral de Sta Ana
Since 1952, it has
housed a museum . Museo Canario
(see pp46–7).
46 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Casa de Colón
N THE OLDEST DISTRICT O f Las Palmas stands the pa
IChristopher
the first governors of the island. According to tr
Columbus stayed here in 1492 during
in his voyage while one of his ships was repaired
hence the name Casa de Colón, or Columbus Hou
This charming building, with its beautiful wooden
balconies, was rebuilt in 1777. Since 1952 it has
housed a museum that includes models and artifa
relating to voyages made by the famous navigator

Ship’s Interior
A reconstructed, full-
size fragment of the
interior of La Niña,
one of the ships that
sailed with Columbus’s
expedition, demon-
strates the living
conditions that sailors
endured while
crossing the oceans.

Santa Maria
Models of the three ships from
Columbus’s fleet (Santa Maria, La Niña,
La Pinta), and navigation instruments,
illustrate the equipment available to
mariners in the early 16th century.

K EY
Ecuadorian art

Mexican culture

Yanomami culture

Marine charts and navigational

instruments G ALLERY G UIDE
The exhibits are arran
Columbus and his voyages surrounding two inne
Canary Islands and discovery of chambers. The underground chambers contain treasures of
America pre-Columbian art. The ground floor is given to Columbus’s
expeditions, the development of cartography and the history of
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
the Canary Islands as the gateway to the New World. The first-
Gran Canaria floor rooms present an overview of Las Palmas history, from
the 15th until the 19th century. There are also separate rooms
16th–20th century painting
displaying items on loan from Madrid’s Prado Museum.
 L A S P A L M A S D E G R A N C A N A R I A 47

. St Lucia
This painting by V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
Guamart de Colón 1. § 928 312 373,
Amberes is one 928 312 384.
of the museum’s ` 928 331 156.
collection of works $ [email protected]
# 9am–7pm Mon–Fri;
by 16th-century
9am–3pm Sat–Sun. ¢ 22 May,
Dutch and Italian 24 Dec, 31 Dec. ^
painters, some of
which belong
to the Prado
Museum. They
include paintings
by Guido Reni, the
Carracc brothers
and Guercino.

. External Portal
de Colón features a
portal crowned by a
arch. This exquisite
combines plant and
otifs, with two lions
ng the town’s crests.

ourtyard
ntre of the
courtyard
n old well.
d galleries
rcades, in
al Canary
e, keep the
ooms cool
nd shady.

. Pre-Columbian Art
An extensive collection of
pre-Columbian artifacts
of gold and other
metals includes
S TAR E XHIBITS original items
. External Portal and replicas
associated with
. Pre-Columbian the Spanish
Art conquests in
Central and
. St Lucia South
America.
48 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Cueva Pintada de Gáldar, as

well as pintaderas – terracotta
“stamps” used for printing
geometric patterns on clothes.

R Catedral de Santa Ana

Plaza Santa Ana.
The building of the cathedral
began in 1497 and took 400
years to complete. The
lengthy gestation affected
both its architectural form
and interior furnishings.
The Neo-Classical fa˜ade
hides Gothic vaults resting on
slender columns, altar retables,
Baroque pulpits and sculp-
tures by José Luján Pérez.
The crypt contains the tomb
of José de Viera y Clavijo,
Fa˜ade of the cathedral of Santa Ana Canary traveller, historian of
the Enlightenment period and
Exploring La Vegueta E Museo Canario the author of Noticias de la
La Vegueta, the oldest district C/Dr Verneau, 2. § 928 336 800. Historia General de Canarias.
of Las Palmas, consists of a # 10am–8pm Mon–Fri; 10am–2pm Another chapel is the resting
labyrinth of narrow streets, Sat–Sun. & place of diplomat Fernando
lined with historic houses ∑ www.elmuseocanario.com de León y Castillo (see p65).
with wooden balconies and The Canary Islands’ Museum A lift in the south tower
beautiful patios. Equally was opened in 1879. A refur- whisks visitors to the viewing
charming are the old town bishment carried out in the terrace, which offers fine views
squares, such as Plaza de mid-1980s has transformed it of the town and harbour.
Santo Domingo, with St into a modern establishment.
Dominic Church dating from The collection includes E Museo Diocesano
the early 18th century. Also such archaeological finds de Arte Sacro
noteworthy is the Baroque as statuettes of gods, C/Espíritu Santo, 20.
church of San Francisco pottery, jewellery § 928 314 989. #
de Borja (1644) formerly and tools of the 10am–4:30pm Mon– Fri;
belonging to the Augustine Guanches, as well 10am–1:30pm Sat. &
monks and now serving as as skulls, skeletons Opened in 1984, this
a law court. and mummies. The museum of sacred
Right at the edge of the displays, which are Ceramic vessel from art adjoins the
district are large market halls diverse, also Museo Canario cathedral. It has
selling a variety of goods, include models of a collection of
including fruit, vegetables, historic houses. Among the Spanish sculpture and some
fish, meat and local cheeses, star attractions are copies of noteworthy paintings,
as well as local handicrafts. the paintings discovered in including works by old
Dutch masters.
N ÉSTOR M ARTÍN F ERNÁNDEZ DE LA T ORRE E Centro Atlántico de Arte
Néstor Martín Fernández de la Torre (1887–1938) was one Moderno (CAAM)
of the most original artists to come from the Canary Los Balcones, 8–10.
Islands. Born in Las Palmas, he § 928 310 380. # 10am–5pm
studied in Paris where he Mon–Fri; 10am–2pm Sat–Sun. &
became familiar with the work CAAM organizes exhibitions,
of Pre-Raphaelite, Symbolist mainly of avant-garde art. It
and Secessionist artists. In 1910, also has its own collection of
he represented Spain in the works by artists influential in
World Exhibition in Brussels. shaping 20th-century Canary
He produced paintings, stage art. CAAM provides a venue
designs, theatre and opera for academic symposia on the
costumes and interior designs, subject of modern art and has
but was known principally for an extensive library, including
his murals. In 1934, he settled videos. In stark contrast to
permanently in Gran Canaria, the 18th-century fa˜ade of
and devoted the last years of this former hotel, the modern
his life to developing and Painting by Néstor in Museo interior, designed by Francisco
publicizing Canary art forms. Néstor (see p50) Sainz de Oiza and Martín
Chirino, is light and airy.
 L A S P A L M A S D E G R A N C A N A R I A 49

Exploring in Triana
To the north of the motorway
that encloses the area of La
Vegueta lies Triana – the
commercial district of town,
marked to the north by Bravo
Murillo street along which
runs the old city wall. The
street leads to the ruins of the
old castle – Castillo de Mata.
The centre of this regularly
shaped area is cut across by
the Boulevard Calle Mayor
de Triana. The ground floors
of its Modernist houses are
occupied by shops. Evidence
of bloody battles fought with
pirates can be seen in San
Francisco Church, destroyed
during an attack by Dutch
pirates, led by Peter van der
Does, in 1599 and
subsequently restored in the
17th century. Opposite the
church stands the bust of
Christopher Columbus.
Unveiled in 1892, this is one
of many landmarks symboliz-
ing the town’s links with great
geographic discoveries.

F Teatro Pérez Galdós

C/Lentini, 1. § 928 446 614. Tiled café in the Modernist kiosk in Parque San Telmo
In the south of Triana, almost
opposite Mercado Público, E Casa Museo Pérez Galdós interior décor. It contains
stands a theatre named after C/Cano, 2. § 928 366 976. ` 928 objects associated with the
the respected writer Benito 373 734. # 9am–9pm, Mon–Fri; writer’s life, as well as
Pérez Galdós (1843–1920). 9am–6pm Sat; 10am–3pm Sun. photographs of many actors
Built in 1919, this structure The Museum of Benito Pérez who appeared in his plays.
is the work of Miguel Martín Galdós, the most distin-
Fernández de la Torre. The guished writer from the P Gabinete Literario
opulent interior decorations Canary Islands, occupies the Plaza Cairasco.
and the auditorium for 1,400 house in which he was born This building, which was
spectators were designed by and where he lived until reconstructed in the
his brother, Néstor Martín 1862. This five-storey building Modernist style, was built in
Fernández de la Torre. Today has a small patio adorned 1842 as a theatre. In 1894 it
this is the best theatre in Las with a statue of the writer. was turned into a club. Now
Palmas and one of the best in The museum, which opened it houses, among other things,
the Canary Islands. in 1964, still has the original a library and a restaurant.

Y Parque San Telmo

San Telmo Park is reached
via the Calle Mayor Triana
Passage. At the edge of the
park stands the small, 17th-
century San Telmo Chapel,
devoted to this patron saint of
fishermen. On the opposite
side is a Modernist kiosk,
built in 1923 and decorated
with ceramic tiles. Standing
on the side of the park is the
Gobierno Militar building
where, on 18 July 1936,
General Franco declared his
opposition to the Republican
government, signalling the
Patio of Casa Museo Pérez Galdós in Triana, with the writer’s statue start of the Spanish Civil War.
50 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring Ciudad Jardín

Ciudad Jardín is an oasis of
peace in the bustling city
of Las Palmas. This leafy
residential district was created
in the early 20th century by
British residents, who
dominated the economic life
of the town at that time.
This “Garden Town”, with
its regular layout, now has
many embassies and beautiful
houses set in small gardens.
These buildings display a
variety of architectural styles.
The district’s main feature is
the large Parque Doramas The exclusive Hotel Santa Catalina, in Ciudad Jardín
with its interesting statues.
in 1890 for the British Exploring Santa Catalina
Y Parque Doramas employees of the Grand The narrow streets of this
This beautifully landscaped Canary Island Company district are filled with Indian
park, featuring water cascades (see p33), the building was shops, offering electronic
and a municipal swimming redesigned by Canary artist goods, alcohol, tobacco
pool, is named after the Néstor Martin Fernandez de la products, jewellery and
Guanche chieftain Doramas, Torre between 1947 and 1952. clothes. Trade blossomed
who, in the late 15th century, Royalty and celebrities have when the Canary Islands were
put up a fierce resistance to stayed in this grand hotel, but a duty-free zone. Shopping
the Spanish invaders. His the lovely views of the park here is not quite as profitable
struggles are symbolized by from the bar can be enjoyed these days, but it is still
the monument depicting by non-resident visitors. acceptable to haggle and
Guanches tumbling over a get some bargains.
precipice to escape capture. P Pueblo Canario Santa Catalina has many
Parque Doramas. hotels, most of which seem to
P Hotel Santa Catalina The park’s attractions include face north, towards the long,
C/Leon y Castillo, 227. Pueblo Canario – a model golden sands of the popular
§ 928 243 040. ` 928 242 764. Canary village with gates, Las Canteras beach.
∑ www.hotelsantacatalina.com turrets and an atrium. It was
Set among the sub-tropical designed in 1937 by the g Muelle Santa Catalina
greenery of the Parque Canary artist Néstor Martín On the south side of Avenida
Doramas stands the Santa Fernández de la Torre (see Marítima del Norte is the ferry
Catalina Hotel. Originally built p48). The large courtyard, terminal, which provides ferry
which is surrounded and hydrofoil services to
by shops selling Tenerife and the other islands.
local handicrafts, This modern building can be
serves as a venue for seen from far away.
folk dance shows.
L Playa de Alcaravaneras
E Museo Néstor South of the ferry terminal,
Pueblo Canario. within the district of Alcara-
§ 928 245 135. vaneras, is the 1 km (0.5 mile)
∑ www.museonestor.com golden sand Alcalavaneras
# 10am–8pm Tue–Sat; beach. This is the second
10:30am–2:30pm Sun, longest of the Las Palmas
public holidays. & beaches, after Las Canteras.
Opened in 1958, the The modern yacht marina of
museum exhibits the Real Club Náutico, south
works by Néstor, of the beach, is packed with
including sketches, glamorous ocean-going boats.
still lifes and erotic
and symbolic paint- Y Parque Santa Catalina
ings. One of the At the heart of the district is
museum’s highlights Santa Catalina Park, which
is the dome of the has played an important role
rotunda, which is in the development of the
decorated with eight town’s mass tourism. During
murals illustrating the 1960s it was the most
Torre’s Poema del popular meeting place for
Monument to the Guanches, in Parque Doramas Mar (Sea Poem). visitors to Las Palmas. Today
 L A S P A L M A S D E G R A N C A N A R I A 51

the park is the centre of the P Auditorio part of Las Palmas by a

city’s nightlife, with numerous Alfredo Kraus narrow inlet. At the centre
restaurants, bars, clubs and Avenida Principe de of La Isleta is Plaza
discotheques filled until the Asturias, s/n. § 928 491 770. Manuel Becerra – a
small hours by fun-loving ∑ auditorio-alfredokraus. com lively square, bordered
guests. Horse-drawn cabs Auditorio Alfredo Kraus on one side by the har-
line up in the park, ready has been hailed as a bour gate and on the
to serve as taxis or take masterpiece of other side by a light-
tourists on a sightseeing modern archi- house. There is also an
tour. There is also a tourist tecture. Built in important naval base
information office here. 1997, it was here and there are
At carnival time, a large designed by Oscar some no-go areas.
stage is erected here and Tusquet and Canary
Santa Catalina Park becomes sculptor Juan Bordes. It g Harbour
the focal point in Las Palmas serves as a venue for Las Palmas harbour
for this great celebration. operas, concerts and boasts a long and
an international glorious history
music festival. The Statue on the paseo, and is an
auditorium, named Playa de las Canteras important factor in
after an outstanding the prosperity of
Canary tenor – Alfredo Gran Canaria. Around 1,000
Kraus – also serves as a ships use the harbour each
conference centre. month. The traffic was even
heavier when the Canary
L Playa de Las Canteras Islands enjoyed duty-free
This stretch of yellowish-brown status and the harbour was
sand is almost 4 km (3 miles) one of the most important
long and in places 100 metres in the world.
(300 yds) wide. This is the The harbour area includes
best beach in Las Palmas. It a marina, which is the starting
is well-served by cafés and point for the annual Canary
restaurants, and there are sun Islands to Barbados race.
loungers for hire. La Barra, a
Denizens of Las Palmas playing natural rock barrier protecting + Castillo de la Luz
chess in Parque Santa Catalina the beach against strong surf, C/Juan Rejón, s/n. § 928 464 757.
makes bathing possible, even # 10am–1pm, 6–9pm Mon–Fri;
Exploring Playa de in rough conditions. 10am–2pm Sat–Sun. ¢ between
las Canteras exhibitions.
Playa de las Canteras is a Exploring La Isleta On the south shore of La
mixed district of hotels and Situated on a small, round Isleta, near the harbour, stands
offices. Scores of hotels and peninsula, La Isleta is a Castillo de la Luz – the Castle
shops line the seaside prom- residential quarter built on of Light. This well-preserved
enade, Paseo de las Canteras, steep terrain, featuring narrow fortress dates from the 16th-
where there are also a great streets and renowned for its century, and was built to
many bars and restaurants. small local shops, bars and guard the town of Las Palmas
This district has one of the street vendors offering dried against pirates. It was restored
town’s biggest shopping fish. The peninsula is in 1990, and is now used as a
centres – Las Arenas. separated from the modern venue for art exhibitions.

Playa de las Canteras – the most beautiful beach in Las Palmas

52 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

growing in their vines inside the crater. Today

natural environment the area is overgrown with
are plants from all orange and fig trees and
the islands in the palms. Eucalyptus and agaves
archipelago. They grow on the slopes, among
include species of shrubs and bushes.
the native Canary A golf course, just south of
palm, Canary pine Pico de Bandama, was set up
and heathers. Also by English residents of the
featured are plants island in 1891. It is the oldest
from other regions golf course in Spain.
including the Azores,
Madeira and the
Cape Verde Islands Santa Brígida 4
as well as two
thousand cacti, * 17,500. @ ( Sat–Sun.
from all corners _ Corpus Christi (Jun).
of the world.
HIS PROSPEROUS OLD town
Y Jardín Botánico
Canario
T lies on the slopes of a
gully covered with cypress
# 9am–6pm daily. and tall palms. Its picturesque
Jardín Botánico Canario, near Tarifa Alta narrow streets are lined with
eucalyptus trees and flower-
Tafira Alta 2 Caldera filled balconies. As a result of
its proximity to Las Palmas,
* 3,000. n Jardín Canario. § 928
de Bandama 3 Santa Brígida is often visited
353 604. _ San Francisco (Oct). by the capital’s inhabitants.
T IS WORTH TRAVELLING the The slopes of the neigh-

S ET AMONG THE hills is the

small town of Tafira Alta,
ITafira,
6-km (4-mile) distance from
half of which is over a
bouring mountain are clothed
with vineyards producing Vino
famous for its beautiful narrow mountain road, in del Monte – the best red wine
residences surrounded by order to reach the peak of the on the island. The terrace in
gardens. These colourful volcano Pico de Bandama. front of Santa Brígida Parish
villas, featuring a variety of This relatively low mountain Church provides a good view
architectural forms and (570 m/1,866 ft) provides one over the surrounding palm
details, have maintained the of the best viewpoints on groves. This triple-nave, Neo-
original colonial atmosphere Gran Canaria. Mirador de Gothic basilica was built in
of the place. Many houses Bandama offers a magnificent 1904 on the site of a chapel
show the influence of view over the whole of Las constructed in 1520 by Isabel
Moorish or Bauhaus style. Palmas and the mountainous Guerra, the granddaughter of
No wonder then, that Tarifa centre of the island. Below is Pedro Guerra – a conquistador
Alta is a favourite with Las the vast volcanic caldera of and one of the conquerors of
Palmas’s financial elite and Bandama, 1,000 m (3,300 ft) Gran Canaria. The chapel was
with wealthy foreigners. in diameter and 200 m (650 subsequently replaced by a
At the beginning of the ft) deep. It is named after a church built in 1580. This, in
20th century, the British built Dutch merchant, Daniel von turn, was almost destroyed by
several elegant hotels here, Damme. In the 16th century, fire in the late 19th century.
including Los Frailes. This von Damme, together with The only part that escaped
was used as a meeting place his wife Juana Vera, who was destruction was the tower,
by General Franco’s born in Gran Canaria, grew built in 1756 .
supporters as they plotted to
overthrow Spain’s Republican
government in 1936.

E NVIRONS : The Botanical

Gardens, Jardín Botánico
Canario Viera y Clavijo,
situated on the outskirts of
town, are named after José
Viera y Clavijo (1731–1813),
the author of the Canary
Islands Dictionary of Plants.
The gardens were created in
1952 by a Swede, Eric
Sventenius (1910–73), who
remained their director until
his death. Set on terraces and Caldera de Bandama, almost 1 km (0.5 mile) in diameter
 G R A N C A N A R I A 53

earlier church, and dates from

1708. Its octagonal shape and
striking mix of Moorish and
Baroque elements make the
tower a distinctive landmark.
The main feature of the
large, triple-nave interior is
the vast, Baroque altar with
its 15th-century, carved figure
of the Virgin. The Virgen
(known as both of the pine
and of the snow) is the patron
saint of the island and the
reason for one of the biggest
fiestas in the Canary Islands
(see p25). Other attractions
include the Treasure Room,
which contains precious gifts,
Whitewashed house in Vega de San Mateo donated at past festivals, to
celebrate the saint.
Vega of Gran Canaria. In 1914, Not far from the church is
Pope Pius XII proclaimed her Plaza Doña María Teresa
de San Mateo 5 the patron saint of the island. de Bolívar, named after
Teror, with its sanctuary, María Teresa, the wife of
* 7,000. ( Sat, Sun. became the religious Simón Bolívar – a hero
_ San Mateo (21Sep). capital of the island. of South America’s fight
HIS SMALL TOWN is situated Every year, on 8 for independence.
T in a fertile, green valley
13 miles (21 km) from Las
September, the town
is visited by many
Her family came from
Teror, and the family
Palmas. It is known for its pilgrims, who travel crest adorns the
large agricultural market, here from all over square. The Casa
which is held every Sunday. Gran Canaria. Museo de los
As well as fruits, vegetables Large historic Patrones de la
and numerous types of houses line the Virgen, built on the
cheese, the local farmers also town’s main square, site of his former
bring goats, pigs and cows for Plaza de Nuestra home, is a museum
sale. San Mateo is equally Señora del Pino. displaying old photo-
known for its wickerwork Some of these graphs, weapons and
baskets and for producing mansions date furniture, including
Canary Island knives, leather from the 16th Central part of the the bed slept in by
and woodwork. These and century and have church fa˜ade in Teror King Alfonso XIII
other local arts and crafts are lavishly carved during a 1906 visit.
often available at the market. wooden and stone balconies.
On Calle Principal stands The basilica of Nuestra E Casa Museo de los
the church of San Mateo, a Señora del Pino, completed Patrones de la Virgen
fine example of neo-Canary in 1767, was the third church Plaza Nuestra Señora del Pino, 8.
architecture. Above this two- to be built on this site. Only # 11am–6:30pm Mon–Sat,
nave building hangs a bell the tower remains from the 10:30am–2pm Sun.
sent from Cuba by local
emigrants. The church also
houses a 17th-century statue
of Saint Matthew – the
town’s patron saint.

Teror 6
* 13,000. @ n Plaza de Sintes, 1.
§ 928 630 075. ( Sun.
_ Fiesta del Agua (last Sun in Jul),
Virgen del Pino (8 Sep).

INCE HER FIRST appearance

S1481,among tree branches in
Nuestra Señora del Pino
(Our Lady of the Pines) has
played an important role in
the history and everyday life Drawing room in Casa Museo de los Patrones de la Virgen in Teror
54 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Arucas 7
* 32,500. @ n Plaza de la
Constitución, 2. § 928 623 136.
( Mon–Fri. _ Corpus Christi (Jun).

HEN APPROACHING Arucas,

W the first sight you see is
the towers of the Neo-Gothic
Parish Church of San Juan.
The church, mistakenly called
a “cathedral”, was designed by
Manual Vega March and built
between 1909 and 1977. As
well as the fine stained-glass
windows and retable, the
interior features the sculpture
of Cristo Yacente (the Resting Ceramic ornaments in Paseo de Gran Canaria, Firgas
Christ), which is the work of a
local sculptor, Manuel Rasmos. acquired its present shape. Firgas 8
The old town hall in Plaza The Canary Islands’ largest
de la Constitución, designed rum factory was built in * 7,000. @ _ San Luis (21 Jun).
by José A. López de Arucas in 1884. The factory
Echegarret, was built in 1875 has a museum devoted to the IRGAS IS FAMOUSfor its
and then rebuilt in 1932. On
the opposite side of the
history and distillation method
of this drink. Near the factory
Fmineral
production of sparkling
water. The water is
square is the leafy town entrance stands an early 18th- drawn from a spring some
park, which boasts many century chapel – La Ermita 5 km (3 miles) away, in
species of rare tropical trees, de San Pedro. Barranco de la Virgen, and
including the soapbark tree 200,000 bottles a day are
(Quillaja saponaria). E NVIRONS : About produced. Firgas water is
Encircling the park, Calle 1.5 km (1 mile) very popular throughout
de la Heredad features one north of Arucas is the islands, where there is
of the town’s most beautiful Montaña de a shortage of fresh water.
buildings, Heredad de Aguas Arucas. At the A feature of Firgas, which
de Arucas y Firgas, which highest point celebrated its five hundredth
was built in 1908 and now of the town anniversary in 1988, is the
houses the Water Board. In is a restaurant Paseo de Gran Canaria, where
the second half of the 19th with a viewing cascades of water flow along
century and the early years of platform, with passages that were laid out in
the 20th century, the views over 1995. On either side of the
Board initiated the town and the passage, by the walls of
construction of an entire island. surrounding houses, are
irrigation system and benches whose backrests are
the town itself decorated with landscapes or
historic symbols of Gran
Canaria. The white walls of
the houses feature colourful
town crests. The further
section of the passage, above
Plaza de San Roque, is
filled with giant slabs with
ceramic maps and views of
the individual islands. These
provide an unusual lesson in
the geography of the Canary
Islands. Still further along the
passage there is a fine display
of the flags of all the islands
fluttering in the breeze.
The historic 15th-century
Molino de Gofio and the
19th-century fountain were
restored in 1988. The whole
town is decorated with
modern sculptures, including
an amusing statue of a
Neo-Gothic Parish Church of San Juan, Arucas peasant with a pink cow.
 G R A N C A N A R I A 55

Moya 9 T OMÁS M ORALES (1884–1921)

* 8,000. @ ( Sun. _ Virgen Tomás Morales is hailed as one of the Canary
de la Candelaria (2 Feb), San Antonio Islands’ most outstanding poets. Although he
(13 Jun). completed medical studies at the University in
1909 and practised in Agaete and Las Palmas,
u CKED AWAY FROM the main his true passion was poetry. He started writing
T tourist attractions, the road
to this small town meanders
poems at the age of 15 and had his first works
published in 1902. In 1908 his first book, Poems
through volcanic valleys, with of Glory, Love and Sea appeared, and two years
countless turns and bends. later Las Palmas Theatre staged his Dinner at
The place is worth visiting Simon’s House – a dramatic prose poem. His
for its vast, Neo-Romanesque strong identification with his homeland is
church, dating from the first reflected in his work – a complex brew of
half of the 20th century. The feelings that combine a love of the sea, loneli-
church is imposing with two ness, warmth and eclecticism. His great poem
towers and a position at the Ode to Atlantic, celebrates man, ship and ocean.
edge of the Barranco de
Moya precipice – a gully criss- Bust of Morales in front of the museum in Moya
crossed with wild crevasses.
Moya is the birthplace of
Tomás Morales – a modernist Santa María de Guía Guía is best known for its
Canary poet. The house in cheese – queso de flor.
r It is
which he was born and lived de Gran Canaria 0 made of cow’s and goat’s milk,
was converted into a museum, with the flower of the blue
Casa-Museo Tomás Morales, * 14,000. @ _ Fiesta del Queso thistle added. This gives the
in 1976. There is a permanent de Flor (May), Nuestra Señora de Guía cheese its unusual flavour and
exhibition dedicated to the (15 Aug), La Rama de las Marías (3rd allows it to remain moist even
poet which includes photo- Sun in Sep). when stored for a long time.
graphs, manuscripts and first HE ONLYnoteworthy historic
editions of his works dis-
played in rooms decorated
T building in this town is the
Church of Santa María de
ENVIRONS: Some 5 km (3
miles) east of Guía is
in period style. The museum Guía, built on the site of a Cenobio de Valerón, a
also organizes exhibitions of chapel erected in 1483–1509. group of about 300 caves set
contemporary art. Some parts of this triple-nave into a cliff at various levels.
By the entrance to the church date back to the 17th The caves were used for grain
nearby catacomb cemetery, century; the fa˜ade was storage and for religious
typical of the Canary Islands, completed only in the middle services. Guanche individuals
stands a large stone cross – a of the following century. were selected to spend
monument to the victims of Guía is the birthplace of several years in solitude in
the 1936 Spanish Civil War. José Luján Pérez (1756–1815), these caves, giving them-
who was the most popular of selves to the service of the
E Casa-Museo the Canary Islands’ sculptors god Abor. Their prayers were
Tomás Morales during his lifetime. His works, to ensure the god’s protection
Plaza de Tomás Morales. such as the statue of Nuestra for the island’s people.
§ 928 620 217. Señora de las Mercedes or St
# 9am–8pm Mon–Sat; Sebastián, adorn the interior E Cenobio de Valerón
10am–2pm Sun. of the local church. However, # 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.

Breathtaking view of Barranco de Moya

56 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

How Rum is Made

, -
UM A BY PRODUCT of sugar its warming and even medicinal
R production, is a drink normally
associated with the Caribbean,
properties. Its alcohol content can
vary from 40 to 80 per cent. It is
where its most famous producers the main ingredient of another
are Jamaica, Cuba, Haiti and famous beverage, grog, which
Martinique. However, the Canary Islands rum
is 50 per cent rum, as well as
legacy of the Canary Islands’ served in a small of cocktails such as Daiquiri
sugar plantations (see p32) is glass and Cuba Libre, which use
a respected and thriving rum rum. One of the Canary Islands’
industry. The local rum is generally specialities is ron miel – a mead rum.
valued for its outstanding flavour and Rum is also used in confectionery.

Rum is made
1 from sugar cane,
which is processed
in order to obtain
sugar syrup and
molasses – both are
used in the later
stages of produc-
tion. As there are no
big sugar-cane
plantations on the
islands, local rum is
produced mainly
from imported semi-
finished products. Inside these large vessels, sugar juices or
2 molasses undergo a fermentation
process. Strong rums are produced by
combining molasses with the scum collected
from the boiling juices and the brew known
as “dunder”. The alcohol obtained by
fermentation subsequently undergoes a
distillation process.

To ensure a refined
3 flavour, the rum is left to mature
in traditional oak barrels – a process
that can last anything between three
and ten years. The room in which the
barrels are stored must be maintained at
a constant temperature and humidity.

The Canary Islands’ rums are

5 well known even outside of the
archipelago. Particularly highly
regarded is the rum from La Palma Bottling and labelling are the
– the best brand is believed to be Ron
de la Aldea. Also popular are mead
4 final stages of rum production.
This is a fully automatic process,
rums, whose ingredients include which takes place in perfectly sterile
palm juice. The resulting orange- conditions, with no people present.
coloured beverage is weaker than The bottles are appropriately
rum and its unique flavour labelled, showing the brand and
resembles neither rum nor mead. provenance of the product.
 G R A N C A N A R I A 57

archaeological park opened Despite being an old town,

at the site in 2003. It features which celebrated its five-
a museum, offering a virtual hundredth anniversary in
tour of the caves, a library and 1981, Agaete has few historic
a restaurant. A replica of the sites. The oldest is the parish
cave can be seen at the Museo church, which was built in
Canario in Las Palmas (see p48). the second half of the 19th
century. There is also a
E NVIRONS : Just 2 km (1.5 miles) charming, small botanical
north of Gáldar is Tumulo de garden, Huerto de las
la Guancha. Discovered in Flores, which features more
1936 during agricultural than 100 species of Canary
works, this Guanche cemetery and sub-tropical flora
dates from the late 11th
century and consists of 30 E NVIRONS : Some 2 km
Vast banana plantations round tombs, built of vast (1.5 miles) to the west is
around Gáldar lava blocks. These were a small harbour, Puerto
the burial places of de las Nieves, with a
Gáldar q members of the Andam- terminal for ferries to
anas royal family who Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
* 22,000. @ _ San Isidro ruled this part of the island. This small, picturesque
(15 May), La Rama (20 Aug). At 6 km (4 miles) west, fishing village, nestling
Sardina is at first glance an against tall cliffs, has
T THE FOOT of Pico de unremarkable fishing become popular with
A Gáldar volcano stands
Gáldar – a sizeable town that
village. Nestled between
high cliffs and a sandy
tourists. Guests are drawn
by its craft shops, galleries
was once the centre of beach, it tempts swimmers and seafood restaurants,
Guanche civilization. There with its crystal-clear water and apartment blocks
are no traces left of the and golden sands, as well have sprung up
ancient court of their ruler as its excellent seafood. around the port.
(Guanarteme) since, along Puerto de las
with a small Spanish fort, it Punta Sardina Nieves’ rich history
was destroyed to make way Agaete w lighthouse can be seen in the
for the construction of opulent furnishings
Santiago de los Caballeros * 5,700. @ n Antonio de Armas, of the Ermita de las Nieves, a
Church. This vast Neo- 1. § 928 898 002. _ Bajada de las chapel, built in the 16th
Classic church has three Ramas (4–7 Aug). century. It contains a display
naves and was designed by of model sailing ships and a
Antonio José Eduardo. The GAETE LIES ON the north- triptych devoted to the Virgen
construction works started in
1778 and were not completed
A west coast of the island, at de las Nieves (Virgin of the
the end of a steep ravine – Snows), painted by the
until the mid-19th century. Barranco de Agaete. Planta- Flemish artist Joos van Cleve
Inside the church is the tions of banana, papaya, (1485–1540). During the
pila verde – a green font avocado and mango flourish Fiesta de la Rama (Branch
brought from Andalusia in the on the steep slopes. The small Festival) in August, the
late 15th century and, since town of Agaete, with its narrow chapel’s altar is carried in a
the island’s conquest, used for streets and whitewashed procession to the nearby
baptizing the local population. houses surrounded by lush parish church in Agaete.
Other noteworthy features are greenery, has become popular
the statues of Christ and the with artists and art-lovers, who Y Huerto de las Flores
Virgin Mary – both the work have converted local houses C/Huertes. # 10am–1pm, 4–7pm
of Luján Pérez. and garages into art galleries. Mon–Sat.
On the square, opposite
the town hall, grows the old-
est dragon tree (see p14) in
Gran Canaria, planted in 1719.
The star attraction of
Gáldar is the Cueva Pintada.
Discovered in 1873, the cave
is decorated with rock
paintings consisting of
geometric patterns. Following
conservation works, carried
out between 1970 and 1974,
the cave was closed in order
to prevent the paintings from
being destroyed by the
increased humidity. A new The whitewashed exterior of the Ermita de las Nieves
58 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

trees (see p14) and aloe. Other

features of interest include a
large amphitheatre, used for
wrestling matches, and a
Guanche Cave.

E NVIRONS : Some 9 km
(6 miles) to the north is the
Mirador del Balcón – a
viewpoint poised on the edge
of rugged cliffs, rising 500 m
(1,650 ft) above the sea. It
provides views over north-
eastern Gran Canaria.

Y Cactualdea
§ 928 891 228. # 10am–6pm
Cactualdea – cactus park in La Aldea de San Nicolás daily. &

La Aldea de cacti and bamboo. The only

building worth visiting is the Puerto
San Nicolás e San Nicolás Church, built in de Mogán r
1972 along traditional lines,
* 8,000. @ _ Bajada de la Rama featuring sculptures by Luján * 1,200. n C/General Franco.
(10 Sep), El Charco (11 Sep). Pérez. It was built on the site § 928 569 100. @ ( Fri.
of an old chapel dating from _ Virgen del Carmen (16 Jul).
,
FERTILE GREEN valley, criss- the early 18th century.
A crossed with ravines, is the
setting for this small town. It is
A popular tourist attraction
is Cactualdea – a park with U NLIKE THE BUSTLINGresorts
on the south of Gran
surrounded by plantations of thousands of cacti imported Canaria, such as Playa del
banana, orange, avocado, from Madagascar, Mexico, Inglés and Maspalomas,
papaya and mango and the Bolivia and Guatemala; other Puerto de Mogán is the ideal
slopes are overgrown with plants include palms, dragon spot for visitors longing for

Gran Canaria Be
236-km (146-mil
ITH ITS
W line, Gran Canaria has a
160 beaches, small and large
the northern beaches, which 1
rocky, the southern beache 2
sandy. In some places, such
Playa del Inglés (popular w
naturists, see p181) or Masp
they stretch for miles and are
with hotels, restaurants and
35
4

Playa de l
This popular wide beach ne
fringed with beautiful palm
ele
 G R A N C A N A R I A 59

some peace and quiet. This

picturesque town and yachting
marina lie at the end of the
green Mogán Valley, at the
foot of a rocky plateau. The
old and slightly scruffy fishing
port and town lies adjacent to
and behind the attractive,
purpose-built marina and
resort complex. The resort
consists of a village-like
complex of colourful, flower-
decked apartments, prettily
designed in Mediterranean
style, lining narrow
pedestrianized streets. The
waterfront is lined with bars,
shops and restaurants.
For swimming fans, there
is a man-made rocky beach
that shelters between the
cliffs and is filled with
several layers of sand that Yellow submarine in Puerto de Mogán harbour
was imported from Africa.
There is a range of tourist Maspalomas several times a Mogán, in a fertile valley
trips available from here. A day. There are also deep-sea planted with such exotic crops
little, yellow submarine offers fishing trips to catch tuna and as pawpaw and avocado, lies
tourists the opportunity to get marlin. The renowned “Blue Mogán. This picturesque town
a glimpse of the rich under- Marlin” angling competition is the capital of the district.
water life of the Atlantic. is held here every July. There is a choice of good
Small replicas of old sailing restaurants here, including
ships ferry passengers to the E NVIRONS : Around 8 km (5 Acayama on the edge of town,
beaches of Puerto Rico and miles) north of Puerto de one of the best on the island.

Agustín 8, together
aspalomas and Playa
Inglés, form a region
n as “Costa Canaria”.
beach of San Agustín
has the darkest sand.

8 5

7
60 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

featuring a traditional ferris

wheel, 27 m (88 ft) high.
This large, modern resort,
criss-crossed with numerous
palm-lined boulevards, has an
excellent golf course – the
biggest on the island – while
spiritual needs are served by
the ecumenical church –
Templo Ecuménico.
Although Maspalomas
gives the impression of being
a single entity, it is in fact a
conglomeration of three
separate resorts, reached by
three different exits from the
south-coast motorway.
The furthest east is San
Puerto Rico – one of Gran Canaria’s most popular resorts Agustín. This quiet, tourist
town, full of greenery, with
Puerto Rico t Maspalomas y dark sand beaches, is aimed
at an upmarket clientele,
* 1,500. n Avda. de Mogán. * 36,000. @ n Avda. de España. rather than at mass tourism.
§ 928 560 029. § 928 140 664. ( Wed, Sat. It has a number of luxurious
_ María de Auxiliadora (May). _ San Bartolomé (24 Aug). hotels, exclusive clubs, a casino
and scenic promenades.
UERTO RICO LIES on the HE BIGGEST RESORTin Gran In the middle of the
P coast, at the mouth of a
large valley. This former
T Canaria has more than 500
hotels, apartment blocks and
Maspalomas coastline is
Playa del Inglés. This is the
fishing port has, in recent chalets, capable of accommo- most crowded and liveliest
years, developed into a dating 300,000 guests at a resort, with Yumbo, a multi-
popular resort, thanks to its time. The town is pulsating storey shopping/restaurant
reputation as the sunniest with life both day and night. centre, in the middle of town.
place in Spain. Scores, if not Tourists flock here, attracted To the south of Playa del
hundreds, of hotels and by miles of sandy beaches, as Inglés are the Dunas de
apartments have been built well as hundreds of restaurants, Maspalomas – a vast, 4-sq
on the terraces of the steeply bars, discotheques and shops. km (1.5-sq mile) expanse of
descending slopes. The resort is popular with dunes and now a national
One of the best features of surfers and windsurfers, as park with a salt-water lake
this town, which is swamped well as deep-sea fishing and and palm grove, which can
in greenery, is its small but diving enthusiasts. For those only be explored on foot or
picturesque beach, covered who enjoy aquatic fun and by camel. The dunes provide
with sand imported from the games, the resort also offers a habitat for lizards, rabbits
Sahara. Other attractions Aquasur – the biggest water- and naturists. (This is also an
include golf courses and a park in the Canary Islands, area used by cruising gay
water park, featuring all kinds with 29 slides. Another big men.) The nearby lagoon
of amusements. Puerto Rico’s attraction is Holiday World – provides numerous migrant
numerous attractions range an amusement park occupying birds with a stop en route
from watersports such as 14,000 sq m (3.5 acres) and between Europe and Africa.
water-skiing, sailing, diving
and windsurfing to leisure
excursions such as glass-
bottomed boats and open sea
cruises for dolphin-watching.
This helps to compensate for
the fact that this is a rather
over-built resort with
remarkably limited amounts
of sand for the numbers of
visitors it receives.
Another very popular
activity is sport-fishing for
marlin, shark, eel and ray.
Puerto Rico claims many
world records in this area:
the world’s largest blue marlin,
caught in 1997, weighed in at
488 kg (1,075 lb). The spectacular dunes of Maspalomas
 G R A N C A N A R I A 61

the local executioner San Bartolomé

can be seen smashing
a convict’s head with de Tirajana u
a rock. A sentry,
* 34,500. @ _ Carnival (Feb),
poised at the highest
point above the village, Santiago (25 Jul).
keeps watch over the OUNDED IN the 16th century
surrounding area.
Some 10 km
F by the Spanish, this
picturesque little town was
(6 miles) northeast, at once a shepherd settlement.
the end of a rocky Situated in the lush green
valley, is the small valley of Tirajana, this district
theme park Sioux is known for its orchards of
City, which represents almonds, plums, peaches and
a ragbag of familiar cherries, which are used in
Colourful parrots in Palmitos Parque associations with the production of vodkas and
American culture. liqueurs. The local speciality
E NVIRONS : Some 10 km At the entrance, next to a is cherry liqueur, guindilla.
(6 miles) north of wooden cart containing The first chapel in San
Maspalomas, set in a models of the first settlers Bartolomé was built in the
mountain valley, is Palmitos travelling west, we come 16th century. In 1690, work
Parque. Amid its lush, across “Cadillac Café” with a started on its site to build a
tropical vegetation live 1,500 genuine 1960s American car. much grander, triple-nave
birds, including birds of Visitors drinking in parish church, which was
paradise from New Guinea, the saloon can enjoy not, in fact, consecrated
miniature humming birds and dramatic interruptions until 1922. Its noteworthy
toucans, with their colourful from actors staging features include the
beaks. Bird shows involving fights. Apart from such Mudéjar-style wooden
trained parrots, eagles and traditional fun there is vaults and carved
falcons entertain visitors at also the “foam party” – statues of the saints. It
intervals. Other attractions a discotheque where is also worth visiting
include the Casa de las participants throw foam the old cemetery, set
Orquideas, which houses at each other. The on a hill, where – con-
around 1,000 orchids. The narrow streets of Sioux trary to the Spanish
huge aquarium, with its vast City provide the setting tradition – the dead
tanks of water, has a large for scenes from were buried in the soil
variety of fish from all over westerns, including rather then being
the world, including the mock fistfights, entombed in the
Canary Islands’ sea, Indian gunfights and bank cemetery wall.
Ocean and South American robberies. The air is Statue of Indian at
waters. A further attraction filled with country Sioux City E NVIRONS : Some
of the park is the butterfly and western music. 8 km (5 miles) to the
house – the largest of its kind south of San Bartolomé, in a
in Europe. The park also O Palmitos Parque beautiful setting of tall cliffs,
boasts white-handed gibbons, Barranco de los Palmitos. § 928 140 palms and fruit trees, is Fataga
whose natural habitats are 276. # 10am–6pm daily. & – a mountain village with old
the Malayan Peninsula and G Mundo Aborigen houses and the 1880 church
Burma, and who have been Macizo de Amurga. § 928 172 295. of San José. Next to the church
bred successfully here: the # 9am–6pm daily. & are reservoirs – Embalse de
first time in captivity. G Sioux City Tirajana and Embalse de
Just 6 km (4 miles) to the Cañon del Águila. § 928 762 573. Fataga – both of which are
north is Mundo Aborigen – # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & excellent goals for walkers.
a reconstruction of an ancient
Canary village. Set on a
gentle slope, with a splendid
view over the Barranco de
Fataga, it consists of several
crofts. Life-sized Guanche
figures and recorded domestic
animal noises give the setting
some realism. A marked trail
leads to a series of lifelike
scenes including: a butcher
gutting a goat; a doctor
operating on a patient;
wrestlers fighting in a small
stadium. Nearby a farmer is
shown sowing a field, while Children’s water slide at the Aquasur water park, Maspalomas
62 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Around Pico de las Nieves i

-
N ALL DAY TOURthrough the mountains of
A Gran Canaria can start from any point. The
diverse character of the island’s landscape makes
it an unforgettable experience. The scenic road
follows a serpentine course as it climbs mountain
slopes, and passes through enchanting villages
and deep ravines. Lush sub-tropical vegetation,
including exotic fruit trees and terraced fields, can
be seen along the way. There are also numerous 6
viewpoints en route that offer spectacular
panoramas, even to the peak of Mount Teide on
Tenerife. Some of the less accessible places can
be reached by minor roads and tracks.

Caldera
de Gáld 7
On the road le
to Art
surrounded
conifer for
Pinos de G
stands a pictur
viewpoint
here you c
the whole no
Tejeda 8 coast of the
This quiet little town, occupying a particu- 8
larly scenic location on the mountain
9
slopes, provides a good stopping place
for lunch when touring the area.

Roque Bentayga 9
Along with nearby Roqu
Nublo, this basalt rock,
rising to 1,412 m (4,632
ft) above sea level, was
regarded as a holy place
by the Guanches, who
left rock inscriptions,
granaries and ceremonia
sites in this area.

Roque Nublo 0
This 60-m (195-ft) tall basalt monolith tops a 1,700 m
(5,578 ft) peak. Thought to have been held sacred by
the Guanches, this finger of rock was formed by
erosion, and is often shrouded in clouds.
 G R A N C A N A R I A 63

Cruz de Tejeda 5
Carved in stone, this
T IPS FOR T OURISTS
cross – from which Starting point: San Bartolomé
the area takes its de Tirajana.
name – marks the Length: 80 km (50 miles).
central point of Gran Stopping places: The best place
Canaria. The view from this point to stop for lunch is the parador at
h ( l d Cruz de Tejeda, which has an
excellent restaurant. There are also
restaurants in Artenara and San
Bartolomé de Tirajana.

La Degollada de Becerra 4
5 ewpoint offers a spectacular view to
st and of the Roque Bentayga peak.

4
Pico
s3
n as
e las
Well
is is
eak
aria
4 ft.
cold
ere,
0 onal
nter.
2 nds
adio
3
ion.

1 Presa de los Hornos 2

est view of the highest reservoir on
sland can be seen near the summit
of Roque Nublo (see p62).
64 T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Santa Lucía o is, however, best

known for its
@ _ Fiesta de Ansite (29 Apr), embroidery. There is a
Santa Lucía (13 Dec). School of Embroidery
housed in the Museo
OCATED IN THE high country, de Piedras y
Lm (2,300
this tiny village stands 700
ft) above sea level,
Artesanía – a white,
bougainvillea-covered
in the upper reaches of the building with deco-
fertile palm valley of Santa rative turrets. The
Lucía de Tirajana. Standing on museum also houses
top of the hill is the Church a collection of rocks
of Santa Lucía, which was and minerals, agricul-
built in 1898 on the site of a tural tools, pottery and
former 17th-century chapel. basketwork.
Various archaeological The imposing
finds, unearthed on the slopes Church of Nuestra
of the surrounding hills and Señora de la
dating from the time of the Candelaria looms
Guanches, can now be seen over an attractive
in the local Museo del square, bordered by
Castillo de la Fortaleza. pretty houses with
This ethnography/archaeology Picturesque narrow streets of Agüimes wooden balconies.
museum is housed in a
recently built pseudo-castle architecture. The vast dome E NVIRONS : On the slope of a
with turrets and battlements. lends an oriental touch to the mountain, half-way along the
The museum also features a building. The statues of saints road between Ingenio and
reconstructed bedroom, inside the church are the Telde, is an archaeological
typical of those in a 17th- work of a Canary sculptor – site discovered in the 19th
century Canary home, and Luján Perez (1756–1815). century. It consists of four
displays of pottery (including Another attraction of caves, including Cuatro
a 3rd-century amphora), fish, Agüimes is the Parque de Puertas, with four openings
leather goods, basket-work, los Cocodrilos. This mini- (hence the name), which
skeletons and other exhibits. zoo puts on shows of trained used to be the home
crocodiles and parrots. of Telde rulers, or the site of
E NVIRONS : A scenic road leads The town comes to life sacrifices. The other three
5 km (3 miles) south to the every September during the caves, which face the sea,
viewpoint of Mirador de Encuentro Internacional Tres were used by the Guanches
Guriete, with its spectacular Continentes, an international to bury the embalmed bodies
views of the area. festival of theatre. Groups of their dead.
from Europe, Africa and South
E Museo del Castillo America come to participate E Museo de Piedras
de la Fortaleza in this lively event. y Artesanía
§ 928 798 310. Camino Real de Gando, 1. § 928
# 10:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri, O Parque de los 781 124. # 8am–6:30pm Mon–Sat,
11:30am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. & Cocodrilos 8–10am Sun. &
Ctra. de los Corralillos. § 928 781
723. # 10am–6pm Sun–Fri. &
Agüimes p
* 6,000. c @ _ Nuestra Señora Ingenio a
del Rosario (15 Oct).
* 12,000. @ _ Virgen de la
HE OLD PART of this small Candelaria (2 Feb); Bajada del Macho
T town, with its narrow
streets and beautiful houses,
(2nd Sat in Oct).
eastern
ITUATED IN THE
is overshadowed by the two
huge towers of San
SGuayadeque,
region, near Barranco
this small town
Sebastián Church, standing is one of the oldest on Gran
in the Plaza del Rosario. The Canaria. It owes its name to
basilica has three naves and the local sugar-cane industry
a barrel vault, and was con- that flourished here in the
structed between 1796 and 17th century (ingenio means
1808. Along with the sugar mill). Later, the region
cathedral in Las Palmas de turned towards rum produc-
Gran Canaria, this is one of tion but now it is a largely
the best examples of the agricultural area, its main Entrance to Museo de Piedras y
Canary Islands’ Neo-Classical crop being tomatoes. Ingenio Artesanía in Ingenio
 G R A N C A N A R I A 65

Green and white painted houses in Plaza de San Juan – the main square in Telde

Barranco de Guayadeque is also popular Telde d

for Sunday picnics. The road
Guayadeque s running along the canyon * 19,000. @ _ San Juan (24 Jun).
ends at Montañade las Tierras
2 km (1.5 miles) north of Ingenio. restaurant. Further on, the -
URING PRE COLONIALtimes,

A SCENIC, WINDING road runs

7 km (4 miles) along the
route is impassable for cars
and ends up with a narrow
D Telde was the seat of the
local king of the Guanches.
bottom of the Guayadeque footpath. During the summer, Following the conquest of the
Canyon, whose name in the the sun’s rays on the rocks island, it became known as a
Guanche language means dazzle spectators. In winter, port for loading sugar cane.
“place of the flowing waters”. the place can be cold, and Towards the end of the
The stream flowing along the clouds often cover the high 15th century, the Spanish
canyon supplies water to the ridges of the canyon. built a small chapel here. In
neighbouring towns of 1519, work commenced on
Ingenio and Agüimes. the site to build the present
Guayadeque is overgrown Church of San Juan
with cacti, agaves, palms and Bautista. The highlights of
Canary pines, in addition to this large basilica are the
about 80 species native to the Mannerist altar and a Flemish
Canary Islands. In spring, triptych dating from the first
the parched, rough terrain half of the 16th century.
of the canyon is softened by From Plaza de San Juan,
blossoming almond trees. in which the church stands,
This region is one of the runs Inés Cemida, a street
most important prehistoric connecting San Juan with
burial grounds, where the another historic part of
dead, often wrapped in town – San Francisco. Here,
animal skins, were interred in the two-storey buildings are
inaccessible caves. Many of are similarly painted in white
these graves were plundered and green. The narrow streets
in the 19th century by the are lined with houses
local population, who sold Peaks shrouded in clouds above adorned with balconies of
the mummies to the Museo Barranco de Guayadeque wrought iron and timber.
Canario in Las Palmas. Local
caves were also used by the
Guanches as dwelling places, F ERNANDO DE L EÓN Y C ASTILLO
food stores and as sites used (1842–1918)
for fertility rituals. León y Castillo, an engineer and diplomat
Barranco de Guayadeque born in Telde, played an important role in
is popular with modern-day the regeneration of Gran Canaria. It is
people who, following in the to him that the island owes the
footsteps of the Guanches, development of the Las Palmas
have made their homes in the harbour, gaining the island equal
caves. This small troglodyte status with Tenerife. Opposed to
population has a chapel Tenerife’s domination, he was an
carved into the rock to meet advocate of the archipelago’s division
their spiritual needs, while into two provinces. In 1881, he became
more earthly delights are Minister of Foreign Affairs, and also
provided by cave bars serving served as Spanish ambassador to
the strong local wine, bread France. In recognition, he was award- Bust of León y Castillo,
and Temisas olives in green ed the title of Marqués del Muni. in Telde
mojo sauce (see pp166–7).
 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 67

FUERTEVENTURA

F
UERTEVENTURA IS BLESSED by sun and sand in equal measure. Much

of its interior, consisting of arid dunes and rocky mountain

ridges, is reminiscent of the western Sahara, which lies only 100
km (62 miles) to the east. Most of the island’s tourists stick to the coast
where the fine sandy beaches are irresistible to sun worshippers, and
strong winds provide ideal conditions for surfing.
With a distance of 97 km (60 extended to the region of El
miles) between Punta de la Cotillo and included the seat
Tinosa, in the north, and of the former kingdom of
Punta de Jandía, in the Maxorata. Volcanic eruptions
south, Fuerteventura is and sand carried from the
the longest and the Sahara desert, as well as
second largest of the frequent droughts during
Canary Islands. Yet Goats – both a symbol of the the 18th and 19th
despite its size, it is one island and part of its landscape centuries, caused the
of the most sparsely collapse of Fuerteventura’s
populated, and its 87,000 or so agriculture, once called the granary of
inhabitants are outnumbered by the the Canaries, and today most of the
many goats that scratch a meal from island’s revenue comes from tourism.
the island’s dry scrub. The climate is harsher here than on
An island known as Forte Ventura the other islands thanks in part to a
first appeared on a map drawn by the cooler prevailing wind called gota fría.
cartographer Angelino Dulceta in 1339. The annual temperature stays more or
Between 1402–05 it was taken by less constant at around 19° C (66° F).
conquistadors, led by Jean de The arid climate and deforestation
Béthencourt and Gadifer de la Salle. are responsible for the limited
The village that grew up around the vegetation found here. An almost
camp of Jean de Béthencourt, Santa total absence of rain means that
María de Betancuria, subsequently drinking water must be obtained
became the island’s capital. Territorial either by desalination or shipped
expansion in the mid-17th century over from the mainland.

Miles of unspoiled golden beaches south of Corralejo

The steep shores of the gulf near Ajuy

68

A TL A NT I C O C E AN
SANTA CRUZ
DE TENERIFE
FE

LA
AS PALMAS
A
DE GRAN CANARIA

w
TARA

J y
t

r
 69

g 4
3

5 2

7 asa de Santa
1g

E
irect air
k e, Gran
e, and
9 fe to the
ere are also
8 nd Spanish
o umber of
Regular ferry
o del
e (Lanzarote)
Gran Canaria,
Playa Blanca
i ofoil runs
Las Palmas
he local

ared
70 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

(312 m/1,023 ft). Occupying

27 sq km (10 sq miles), this
wide belt of seemingly endless,
shifting sands encroaches on
the road between Puerto del
Rosario and Corralejo and
descends to the ocean.
Reminiscent of the Sahara
desert, the Parque Natural de
las Dunas de Corralejo is
almost totally devoid of any
vestiges of civilization. Even
when the tourist season is at
its height there is plenty of
solitude and open space to be
found here (don’t forget to
take a hat). The only signs of
Drawing room of Casa Museo de Unamuno, Puerto del Rosario life are the stone walls built
as windbreaks on the sandy
Puerto interest lovers of Spanish hills. The area was declared
literature, as it was the home a National Park in 1987.
del Rosario 1 of the writer and philosopher
Miguel de Unamuno during
* 31,000. k @ g his exile. Part of the house is
n C/1Mayo, 37, 928 530 844. furnished with period pieces
_ Nuestra Señora del Rosario (7 Oct). including the original desk
, the
UERTO DEL ROSARIO used by the writer, as well as
P current administrative
centre of Fuerteventura, was
a collection of personal objects
and documents. It represents a
established in 1797 as a port typical interior from his times.
for locally produced soda and
grain. The port began to grow E Casa Museo de Unamuno Sand-sculpture of a dragon
in the mid-19th century and C/del Rosario 11. § 928 862 300. on a beach, Corralejo
by 1860 had become the # 9am–2pm Mon–Fri.
capital of the island. Until 1957, Corralejo 3
the town, whose name means E NVIRONS : Just 12 km (7
Port of Roses, was Puerto de miles) to the north is a small * 12,500. g n Plaza Pública de
Cabras – Port of Goats – in village, Cassilas del Angel, Corralejo, 928 866 235. ( Mon,
reference to the watering hole with pretty houses. The Tue, Thu, Fri. _ Carnival (Mar),
in the nearby canyon. beautiful church of Santa Ana Nuestra Señora del Carmen (16 Jul).
Today the port has a (Saint Anne), dates from 1781
thriving cargo and passenger and has a black, volcanic- HIS NORTHERNMOSTtown of
harbour, with ferries sailing to
Gran Canaria and Lanzarote.
stone fa˜ade. T Fuerteventura has a
passenger harbour, with
It also has a yachting marina. Parque Natural ferries sailing several times a
Not far from the town – day to Playa Blanca in
which is the largest on de las Dunas 2 Lanzarote. Small cruising
Fuerteventura and inhabited boats also take tourists to the
by more than half of the N THE NORTHEAST corner of neighbouring island of Los
island’s population – is an
international airport.
INatural
the island is the Parque
de las Dunas de
Lobos. Weather-beaten fishing
boats moored at the quayside
Another feature of Puerto del Corralejo, which stretches and several fish restaurants
Rosario is the huge barracks south right up to the base of add a touch of charm to this
of the Spanish Foreign the Montaña Roja volcano old fishing village.
Legion. In 1975, when the Over the past decade
Spaniards finally left the Corralejo has become one
western Sahara, 3,000 of Fuerteventura’s most
legionnaires were transferred important vacation centres,
here – numbers have since along with the Jandía
dwindled and there are now peninsula. Visitors come
fewer than 1,000. here not so much for the
While in Puerto del Rosario, town but for its setting, with
it is worth taking time to visit striking views of Lanzarote
the church of Nuestra and Los Lobos and the
Señora del Rosario, with its wonderful beaches to the
classical fa˜ade. Standing south of the centre. Excellent
opposite it is Casa Museo de Goats picking at the scrub in the conditions for surfing and
Unamuno, which will Parque Natural de las Dunas windsurfing are another
 F U E R T E V E N T U R A 71

MIGUEL DE UNAMUNO (1864–1936)

Miguel de Unamuno, the “Philosopher from Salamanca”,
played a major part in the rebirth of Spanish literature and
in the intellectual life of Spain in the early 20th century.
He was the rector of Salamanca
University from 1900. Having
spoken out against the dictatorship
of Primo de Rivera he was forced
into exile in the Canary Islands for
a few months. His opposition to
Franco led to his being put under
house arrest. In his work, he
advocated the view that philosophy
should express the tragedy of the
Jet-skis and sailing school in human dilemma. Declaring himself
Corralejo harbour a defender of “pure Spanishness”,
his Spanish Travels and Scenes
attraction. Thanks to a year- (1922) is a testament to the author’s Miguel de Unamuno,
round stiff breeze, the El Río love for his homeland. outspoken and defiant
strait between Corralejo and
Lanzarote is an ideal place for
water sports. The clear water by glass-bottomed motor- family – until 1968. It has
teems with a rich variety of yacht. The island of Los remained uninhabited.
fish. Angling, diving and Lobos is very young, little Thanks to the fact that the
glass-bottomed boat trips are more than 6,000–8,000 years island remained uninhabited
very popular. old, and owes its name to the for so long, it has retained its
The only interesting sight in seals – lobos marinos – which original ecosystem. The
town is its modern church in once made their home on its natural botanical garden on
Plaza de la Iglesia. The sandy shores. the slopes of the Montaña
town’s main attraction is According to the history Lobos is used as a resting
sand-sculpting – on a small books, the French adventurer place by migrating birds.
beach by the harbour, giant de la Salle dropped anchor by The whole of the island of
dragons and camels can be the island of Los Lobos in Los Lobos is a nature reserve.
conjured up before your eyes. 1402. He and his crew were The sandy coves offer ideal
saved from starvation by seal conditions for swimming and
meat. In the early 15th century, relaxing, while angling is
Isla de los Lobos 4 Jean de Béthencourt built a limited to a few allocated
hermitage on the island. Later spots. There is a good
g
on, the island served as a marked walking trail around
HIS SMALL VOLCANIC island, base for pirates raiding the the island; it starts and ends
T occupying only 4.4 sq km
(1.7 sq miles) is situated in
neighbouring islands of the
archipelago. It was also a
in Casas del Puertito – a small
hamlet with a harbour. There
the El Río strait, between centre of the slave trade. is no accommodation on the
Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. The island was inhabited by island, but day visitors can
It can be reached by small its only residents – the enjoy peace, tranquility and
cruising boat from Corralejo or lighthouse keeper and his great views of Fuerteventura.

Isla de los Lobos, a fine destination for picnics, swimming and hiking trips
72 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Fishing harbour in El Cotillo, with the mighty Fortaleza del Tostón guarding its entrance

El Cotillo 5 It stands in the shadow of In the town centre stands the

Montaña de Escantraga Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
@ n 928 866 235. _ Nuestra (529 m/1730 ft). The first de la Candelaria. The white
Señora del Buen Viaje (3rd Sun in Aug). European settlers arrived here walls of this attractive church,
in the early 14th century. In which dates from 1711, stand
HE EARLY DAYSof this 1709, the newly established in stark contrast to its square
T small fishing town are
associated with the Guanches.
military governor of the island belfry, built of black volcanic
(the “Colonel”) chose La stone. The interior of the
This was once the seat of the Oliva as his seat. The town church is decorated with
tribal chiefs of Maxorata – soon became the military numerous fine
the ancient kingdom that capital of the island sculptures and
encompassed the northern and, along with paintings by Juan
part of Fuerteventura. Betancuria, a centre de Miranda. The
The round fortified tower – of Fuerteventura’s Centro de Arte
Fortaleza del Tostón – dates political life. Canario, displaying
from more recent times. A The military the works of
small fort, it was built in 1797 headquarters were at local artists, and the
as a defence against British the Casa de los Museo del Grano – with
and Arab pirates. Thanks to Coroneles. The an exhibition on grain
restoration work it is now “House of production in an
well preserved. Approached Colonels”, built in early 19th-century
via stone steps with a the 18th century, is granary, are both
drawbridge, this is a two- a large austere Sculpture, Centro worth a visit.
storey structure. Originally the edifice featuring de Arte Canario
upper floor housed a water two low towers at E Centro
tank, while the lower level the corners and numerous de Arte Canario
was used as soldiers’ quarters. windows: it is said to have § 928 868 233.
The small harbour features one window for each day of #10:30am–2pm Mon–Fri. &
a giant rock rising out of the year though this is ∑ www.centrodeartecanario.com
the water. Although highly inaccurate. The nearby Casa E Museo del
picturesque, it makes it hard del Capellán (Chaplain’s Grano La Cilla
for the fishermen to steer in House) is a modest single- § 928 862
and out during rough storey building with an 300.
weather. Other attractions of ornately decorated portal and # 10am–6pm
El Cotillo are its scenic coves window frames. daily. &
and nearby sandy beaches.

La Oliva 6
* 2,300. @ n 928 866 235.
_ Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria (2
Feb), Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Oct).

ITUATED AT THE northern

SOlivaendisofoneFuerteventura, La
of the prettiest
villages on the island and a
popular excursion destination. The triple-naved Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, La Oliva
 F U E R T E V E N T U R A 73

Tefía 7
* 230.

, which lies on
HIS VILLAGE
T the road from La Oliva to
Betancuria, has an interesting
open-air museum – the
Ecomuseo de la Alcogida –
featuring seven reconstructed
houses typical of traditional
Fuerteventura architecture.
The exhibition illustrates the
former life of the islanders,
their occupations relating Reconstructed farm buildings in the Ecomuseo de la Alcogida, Tefía
to farming and crafts, and
also explains the process of Antigua (1785), which has windmill, and a gallery and
the houses’ reconstruction. wooden vaults and a high exhibition halls devoted to
altar incorporating folk motifs. ethnography and archaeology.
E Ecomuseo de la Alcogida The Centro de Artesanía
§ 928 175 434. Molinos de Antigua, situated E Centro de Artesanía
# 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, Sun. on the town’s outskirts and Molinos de Antigua
surrounded by a low wall, is § 928 878 041.
E NVIRONS : Some 12 km (7 a museum village, built under # 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, Sun. &
miles) northeast is the small the supervision of César
town of Tetir. It’s worth Manrique, which includes a E NVIRONS : Travel 8 km (5
visiting for its traditional craft centre, a reconstructed miles) to the north for La
houses with balconies and the Ampuyenta, a small village
local church, Santo Domingo de with a 17th-century chapel,
Guzmán (1745). The square San Pedro de Alcántara. This
in front of the church features picturesque sanctuary is
a bust of Juán Rodriguez y surrounded by a fortification
Gonzáles (1825–93), the erected by Norman settlers.
founder of the Banco de Some 9 km (6 miles) south
Canarias, who was born here. is the village of Tiscamanita,
A further 8 km (5 miles) with the 17th-century chapel
north, on the slopes of of San Marcos. The main
Montaña Quemada, stands draw here is the Centro de
a monument to Miguel de Interpretación de los
Unamuno. Made of sandstone Molinos, where visitors can
and over 2 m (7 ft) tall, it was learn something about the
carved in 1970 by Juan island’s many windmills.
Borges Lineres.
E Centro de Interpretación
Fa˜ade of the late 18th-century de los Molinos
Antigua 8 church, Antigua # 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, Sun. &

@ _ Nuestra Señora de Pino (8 Sep).

J EAN DE B ÉTHENCOURT ( C .1360–1422)
NTIGUA, in the centre of On 1 May 1402, Jean de Béthencourt, together with Gadifer
A Fuerteventura at the foot
of the mountains, is – true to
de la Salle, set sail from La Rochelle in France, at the head of
a small expedition intent on conquering the Canary Islands.
its name – one of the oldest He left some of his men on
towns on the island. It was Lanzarote and sailed to Spain to
established in 1485 by the seek support. He returned not
settlers arriving from only with ships, soldiers and
Andalusia and Normandy, money, but also with a title – he
who began cultivating the soil was now the lord of four of the
and breeding animals. Many islands: Fuerteventura, Lanzarote,
windmills erected at the time El Hierro and La Gomera. The
were used to irrigate the furious de la Salle immediately
fields. In 1812, Antigua was returned to France. Béthencourt,
granted municipal rights and having handed over the power
from 1835 it was the capital to his nephew, Maciot de
of the island. Béthencourt, also returned to
Its more interesting features France in 1406. He died at his Jean de Béthencourt,
include the small, single-nave castle in Normandy in 1422. Norman conqueror
church of Nuestra Señora de
74 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

century town house of Casa

de Santa Maria can pick up
a few souvenirs from the
craft shop.

E Museo de Arte Sacro

Alcalde Carmelo Silvera, s/n.
§ 928 878 003. # 11am–4pm
Mon–Fri, 11am–2pm Sat. ¢ Sun
E Museo Arqueológico
Roberto Roldán, 12–14.
§ 928 878 241. # 11am–5pm
Tue–Sat, 11am–2pm Sun.

Betancuria’s lush vegetation, a contrast to the stark mountains beyond ENVIRONS: Some 2 km (1 mile)
north of Betancuria, Mirador
Betancuria 9 ceiling. The space behind the de Morro Velosa offers a fine
choir contains a vast painting, view over the island’s
* 600. @ n C/Amador Rodríguez, Nava de La Iglesia, depicting dramatic lunar-like landscape.
6, 928 878 092. the church as a ship, painted
_ San Buenaventura (14 Jul). by Nicolas Medina in 1730. Ajuy 0
On the northern outskirts of
volcanic
ESTLING IN A the village is the Franciscan
N crater sheltered from the
winds, Betancuria lies in the
abbey of San Buenaventura
– the oldest abbey on the
30 km (19 miles) southwest
of Betancuria.

central region of the island, island. Its roof collapsed in JUY PERCHES ONthe shores
where the rugged peaks of
extinct volcanoes punctuate
the mid-19th century and
what remains today are
A of a small bay and is
surrounded by steep cliffs.
the wide, fertile valleys. merely scenic ruins. Next to Jean de Béthencourt,
Practically all of this area is the abbey stands Pozo del accompanied by Gadifer de la
within the Parque Natural de Diablo – Devil’s Pit. Salle, landed here in 1402 and
Betancuria. The highest peak, According to legend, Satan embarked on the conquest of
Pico de Betancuria, offers a was chained to this rock and the island. For many years the
splendid vantage point. forced to carry stones used in bay served as a harbour for
The town was founded in the building of the abbey. settlers arriving in Betancuria.
1404 and was given its full Betancuria has two small Today Ajuy is a quiet
name, Villa de Santa María museums. The Museo de fishing village. The fishing
de Betancuria, by Jean de Arte Sacro, established in a season lasts from May until
Béthencourt. The Norman former parish house, has a October and during this
made the town the island’s collection of sacred art and time the simple beach-side
capital and it remained so photographs showing almost restaurants serve up the
until 1834. Betancuria’s inland every church on the Canary day’s catch. Numerous caves,
position was intended to Islands. The Museo such as the Arco de Jurao,
protect it against pirate raids. Arqueológico has a collection can be explored.
However, in 1593, the Berber dating from the time of the With its rocky seabed, vast
pirate Xabán de Arráez Guanches, as well as antique underwater caves and shoals
pillaged it mercilessly, items of everyday use. of darting fish, Ajuy is a
destroying virtually every Visitors to the restored 16th- paradise for scuba divers.
building and taking 600 of its
inhabitants captive.
Today, Betancuria is the
prettiest village on
Fuerteventura. At its centre
stands the Iglesia de Santa
María. The first church built
on this site in 1404 was
elevated to the status of a
cathedral and bishopric by
Pope Martin III in 1425, but
no bishop ever arrived to take
up the post. In 1593, the
church was burned by Arráez;
it was rebuilt in 1620.
Noteworthy features of its
interior include the Baroque
altar, the original stone floor
set in a wooden frame, the
carved stalls and the coffered Waves battering the steep cliffs around Ajuy
 F U E R T E V E N T U R A 75

volcanic formations leads to

a ravine at the foot of the
Risco del Pasco mountain,
where it joins the road
leading to Morro Jable.

Costa Calma e
@

OSTA CALMA is an

Old irrigation equipment, Pájara

C upmarket modern resort
distinguished by its tasteful
architecture. It lies at the
Pájara q La Pared w northern end of Playa del
Sotavento, which is the
@ _ Virgen del Carmen (16 Jul). About 21 km (13 miles) south of Pájara. longest and most scenic
beach on the island, with
O THE SOUTH of Betancuria town
HIS SMALL TOURIST excellent conditions for
T lies the small town of
Pájara, linked with the
T has undergone a fair
degree of development and
windsurfing.
The first private homes
island’s capital by a scenic includes an elegant hotel. It is appeared here in the late
road. This is one of the oldest worth visiting both for its 1960s and the first hotel
settlements on Fuerteventura. historical associations and for was built in 1977. The rapid
It was founded by fishermen its landscape. growth of Costa Calma
and goatherders who settled Before the Spanish contributed to the construction
here in the 16th century. conquest, a land wall running of an asphalt road connecting
Historic attractions include around here (la pared ) Puerto del Rosario with Morro
the church of marked the boundary Jable. The building of a sea-
Nuestra Señora de between two rival water desalination plant
la Regla. Built in Guanche kingdoms: followed in 1986. Large-scale
1684, the church is Maxorata and construction works began in
worth seeing for its Jandía. Much of the the mid-1990s to provide
Latin American wall may have been tourist facilities, including
influences. The dismantled to use as hotels, restaurants and shops.
stone reliefs above building material;
the main portal today no trace of it E NVIRONS : The small village
depict stylized remains. of La Lajita lies 6 km (4
images of fish, Portal of the church La Pared has the miles) north. Visitors come
lions, birds and in Pájara most extensive here for the Zoo Parque de
snakes devouring dunes to be found los Camellos, home to 200
their own tails. The origin of anywhere in Fuerteventura species of exotic birds and
these motifs, said to be and separates the Jandía mammals from around the
inspired by Aztec art, is peninsula from the remaining world. A local garden centre
unknown. The church’s part of the island. It also sells specimens of tropical
interior features two wooden forms a natural border and subtropical flora, as well
altars, including a smiling between two beaches of as native plants. Other
figure of the Madonna and completely different sand attractions include half-hour
Child, and one of Our Lady of colour. The southern Playa camel rides and parrot shows.
Sorrows (Nuestra Señora de del Vejo Rey has golden sand.
los Dolores), the patron saint To the north, Playa de la O Zoo Parque
of the island. Pared consists of black sand. de los Camellos
A trek of several hours § 928 161 135.
E NVIRONS : Some 11 km (7 along some interesting # 9am–6pm daily. &
miles) northeast lies Vega de
Río Palmas. Here, perched
among high rocks is the
hermitage of Nuestra Señora
de la Peña which features
another image of Our Lady of
Sorrows. Each year on the
third Sunday in May a feast is
held here in her honour. The
church (1666) contains
statues of saints, believed to
have been brought here by
Béthencourt for the first
church built in Betancuria. An eerie lunar landscape, the mountainous region north of La Pared
76 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Virtually uninhabited northern coast, the Península de Jandía

Morro Jable r of the island with rocky Cofete y

shores and a solitary
* 6,000. @ g lighthouse – has in recent * 20.
years become a Mecca for
ET AMID LONG sandy caravanning holiday-makers. UDGING BY THE surroundings
Sendbeaches, on the southern
of Fuerteventura, Morro
In this remote region, it is
possible to escape from most
Jvillage,
of this small, windswept
Fuerteventura appears
Jable is an old fishing village of the noise and bustle of to be a desert island. Only a
with narrow streets and lively mass tourism. roughly surfaced road
taverns, which serve dishes of A considerable part of the connects it with Morro Jable.
freshly caught seafood. Once peninsula, with its rugged At the height of Playa de Juan
a sleepy little place, the hills, is a conservation area Gómez, the road forks: one
village has grown in recent and forms part of the Parque road leads to the southwestern
years to become the biggest Natural de Jandía. Covering end of the island; the other
resort on the island. 140 sq km (55 sq miles), it winds up at Cofete. Cofete is
The modern part of town features many species native the end of the line and marks
is geared for tourists and to the island. In the remote the starting point for hiking
includes countless hotels and mountain valleys, it is still trails along the ridge of Gran
apartments, shopping malls, possible to see wild goats Valle and the pass between
restaurants and bars. and donkeys. the peaks of Pico de Zarza
Hydrofoils and ferries sail During World War II, this and Fraile.
from the local harbour to Las was a closed area and Beyond the village, perched
Palmas on Gran Canaria, belonged to the German below the Degollada de
while the marina is full of industrialist Gustav Winter. Cofete, is Gustav Winter’s
yachts. Morro Jable is also a Rumour has it that he ran imposing villa. Cofete features
good starting point for hikes a secret submarine base in the only restaurant found on
on the Península de Jandía. southwest Fuerteventura the northern shore. A 2-km (1-
during the war and stories mile) trail leads to the coast,
about spies and buried Nazi and the Playa de Cofete, and
Península treasure persist to this day. further on, to Barlovento.
de Jandía t
is
HE JANDÍA PENINSULA
T surrounded by miles of
scenic beaches with fine
white sand. The longest
beaches with the highest
waves to be found on the
island, they are particularly
attractive to surfers, while the
secluded beach of Barlovento,
on the northwestern shore, is
popular with scuba divers.
The area around Puerto de
la Cruz, near Punta de Jandía
– the southwestern headland Gustav Winter’s villa, on land given to him by General Franco
 F U E R T E V E N T U R A 77

Windmills
types, driven by
INDMILLS OF ALL 19th century saw the arrival of a
W the steady trade winds, form an
important element of the Canary
second type of windmill – the molina.
This differed from the previous design
Islands’ landscape. Introduced in the in the way its structure was exposed.
17th century, they came to replace the Modern turbines were later introduced
horse-driven mills – tahonas. The for use in desalination plants. In
oldest type of windmill is the molino. recent years an increasing number of
Built of local stone, plastered in white, wind farms have been popping up all
with a round body and conical roof, over the island. These are used for
the molino has four to six sails. The generating electricity.

Wind turbines – the Old-style windmills

latest generation of used in the
powerful hi-tech wind generation of
farms is used to electricity, were
generate electricity for also employed for
the island on an pumping water in
industrial scale. desalination plants.
Sails, or wings, of the

as poured by
M OLIN
NO
o the grindstone.
A typiccal passed into a
islands’ la aped dispenser
kind off w ch it was sent by
Spanishhi acks placed on
windm mills vel.
to grinddf
wheat, ba Chute used for
The miillin pouring flour
is mounte into sacks
upper sec
ntrance to the
Long ro ods wer floor of
the head d of e molino
windmilll an
were also u
stabilize the
mechaniism

The molino’s grinding mechanism

is simple: rotating sails turn a vast
cogwheel, which connects directly
with the grind
g wheel.

The molina’s structure, unlike the

molino, is visible on the outside
and sits on top of the building that
houses the grinding mechanism.
78 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Gran Tarajal u old fishermen’s cottages clad

with bougainvillaea and
@ n 928 162 723. _ Fiesta de peppers, and boasting
San Diego de Alcalá (13 Nov). fantastic sea views. Local bars
and restaurants serve fresh
This fair-sized town, the fish daily. Near the harbour is
second largest on a small stony beach. Some 6
Fuenteventura, and an km (4 miles) to the north is
important trade centre, is free Punta de la Entallada. This is
of much of the gloss typical the point of Fuerteventura
of modern resorts. Due to its closest to Africa and is
great strategic importance a reached by a narrow, winding
fort was built here at the time road. On top of 300-metre
of the island’s invasion by (1,000-ft) tall cliffs is a
Jean de Béthencourt. lighthouse. Built in 1950, it
From the early 20th resembles a fortress. The site
century, the local port played Waterfront at the harbour, offers a splendid view across
a more important role than Las Playitas near Gran Tarajal the mountainous part of the
that of the island’s capital island and the Atlantic.
and even now it is used for town centre, there are
shipping merchandise from virtually no historical sights.
the Península de Jandía Malpaís Chico
including tomatoes, fish Environs and Malpaís
and cattle. For those who A detour 8 km (5 miles) to
enjoy swimming, Gran Tarajal the east leads to a small Grande i
has a safe but drab beach fishing village – Las Playitas.
consisting of grey sand. The peaceful atmosphere The inhospitable Regions of
Apart from the single-nave contrasts with that of the Malpaís Chico and Malpaís
church of Nuestra Señora de crowded resorts. Instead of Grande bear witness to the
la Candelaria, built in 1900, vast hotels and apartments, island’s volcanic past, and
which can be found in the guests are invited to stay in occupy the central-eastern

Fuerteventura
Fuerteventura, one of t
populated of the Canar
to its size, features the
most beautiful beaches
for miles. The loveliest
the Península de Jandía
sunseekers will readily
quiet. There are almost
remote beaches, of wh
popular with nudists (s

4
3
Puerto de la Luz 3
This tiny fishing hamlet, situ
on the southwestern tip of t
island, is extremely remote.
Popular with windsurfers, it
just one local restaurant, wh
serves fresh seafood.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp158–60 and p174
 F U E R T E V E N T U R A 79

part of Fuerteventura. It place. Located in the middle the bungalow estates, the
would be pointless to look of the eastern coast, it is Barceló Club El Castillo, is
for any traces of human convenient for the airport. It built round the old El
activity here. features sprawling, low-built Castillo watchtower near the
Don’t look for any roads apartments, built around a harbour. Built in 1741, it
either. The bleak landscape is horseshoe bay with a safe, bears witness to the strategic
traversed by two hiking trails. sandy beach. The resort is an importance of this place
One leads around Malpaís excellent choice for visitors during the 18th century.
Chico, which was formed by with small children. Tourist attractions include
lava flowing from the Caldera At its centre is Pueblo a good range of facilities for
de Gaíra. The other, leading Majorero – a modern, water sports including diving
to Malpaís Grande, passes village-like complex of shops, and windsurfing, and the
through the national park, bars and restaurants. One of island’s first golf course.
declared a conservation zone
in view of its unique geological
features. Wildlife is scarce;
one of the few creatures to
inhabit this desert area is the
Egyptian vulture.

Caleta de Fustes o
* 2,600. @ n Caleta Dorada,
El Castillo, 928 163 150. _ Nuestra
Señora del Carmen (16 Jul).

Caleta de Fustes is one of the

island’s main vacation
centres. Though not the most
attractive resort, it is a quiet El Castillo, the watchtower in Caleta de Fustes

ma 7
veloping
local
ders Playa
nto.
7

avento 6
beaches is
ue” due to
ul beaches
clear water.

5
e
of the
aches,
as a
5
unning
nicipal
staurants,
s.
 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 81

LANZAROTE

T
HIS IS VOLCANO country. Known as the Isla del Fuego, or Fire
Island, most of Lanzarote’s 795 sq km (300 sq miles) is covered
with solidified lava in tones of black, pink, purple and ochre,
and peppered with nearly 300 volcanic peaks. Many tourists stick to
the coast, especially the northern shores. Others prefer to head inland
to trek through Lanzarote’s breathtaking lunar landscape.

Much of the local architecture often plundered the then

is in harmony with the island’s capital, Teguise. In the 16th
unique landscape. The and 17th centuries, the island
inhabitants continue to build was also raided by English and
in the traditional style and, as French pirates. These attacks,
a result of strict planning combined with years of
controls, Lanzarote is almost droughts and catastrophic
totally free of high-rise Timanfaya National volcanic eruptions, led at
buildings. This trend has Park logo one time to the almost total
been influenced by the depopulation of the island.
artistic concepts of the late architect In the absence of any natural
and artist César Manrique regarding resources, the main occupations of
the development of the island. In the inhabitants were agriculture and
1993, to support the local population fishing. Large plantations of prickly
in their efforts to preserve the natural pear and vineyards still flourish. Other
landscape, UNESCO declared crops include tomatoes and sweet
Lanzarote a Biosphere Reserve. potato. In recent years, tourism has
The island’s name probably derives become the dominant industry,
from the distorted name of the generating 80 per cent of the island’s
Genoese sailor Lanzarotto (or revenue. The development of
Lancelotto) Malocello, who first arrived agriculture and tourism has resulted
here in 1312. In 1402, the island was in a severe water shortage. Until
conquered by Jean de Béthencourt. recently, drinking water was shipped
The proximity of the African coast in. Then, in 1964, the first desalination
made the island prone to attacks by plant was opened and today almost
Algerian and Moroccan pirates, who every large estate has its own unit.

Camel caravan in Parque Nacional de Timanfaya

Typical vineyards in La Gería

82 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring La
LTHOUGH LANZAROTE
A vegetation, many
shapes and colours of
A T L A NT I C
SANTA CRUZ
O CE A N

DE TENERIFE
FE
landscape, regard the
picturesque in the arc LA
AS PALMAS
A
agriculture and touris DE GRAN CANARIA
of the landscape. Visi
beaches. Lanzarote’s n
for surfing; the waves
Santa. The strange arc
Manrique, which mer
landscape, are anothe

S IGHTS AT A G LAN
Arrecife 1
Costa Teguise 2
Cueva de los Verdes 6
El Golfo o
Femés s
Guatiza 4
Guinate q
Haría w
Isla Graciosa 9
Jameos del Agua 5
La Caleta de Famara r
La Gería d
Malpaís de la Corona 7

i
Mosaic in Tahiche’s César M
p
G ETTING T HERE
Lanzarote has air links wit
the archipelago and with m
Regular charter flights also s
all over Europe. Frequent
Lanzarote with nearby Fue
Canaria. The capital and o
reasonable public transpor
island are so well served,
even those that are particu
a
tourists, cannot be reached g
advisable to make use of o
or to hire a car. Though th
surfaced, some remote be
all-terrain vehicle.
 L A N Z A R O T E 83

0 8
MALP
MAL
ALP
AC
7

q 5

6
EVA
OS V
w

4
O

e
t

y
2

g
1
d
k

f
84 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Charco de San Ginés, in Arrecife, with its small, picturesque fishermen’s cottages

Arrecife 1 The San José fortress, a permanent exhibition

restored by Manrique, was devoted to the outstanding
* 43,000. k 6 km (4 miles) west turned into a modern art physicist Blas Cabrera Felipe
of Arrecife. @ n Calle Blas Cabrera gallery in 1979. Four rooms (1878–1945), who was born
Felipe, 3, 928 811 762. ( Sat. of the Museo Internacional in Arrecife and whose bronze
_ Carnival (Feb), San Ginés (Aug). de Arte Contemporáneo are statue stands on the square
used for temporary by Paseo Marítimo.
Spanish
RRECIFE HAS GENUINE exhibitions of the great Quite different in character
A character. With modern
houses and a palm-lined
masters, including Pablo
Picasso, Joan Miró, Oscar
is the area around Charco
de San Ginés, with its pretty
promenade, it has been the Domingue or Manrique fishermen’s cottages
capital of Lanzarote since 1852, himself. Recitals of chamber overlooking a small lake that
as well as the island’s main and modern music are held connects to the sea. The
seaport and commercial centre. in the concert hall. Manrique Iglesia de San Ginés,
The first harbour, protected designed the spacious and completed in 1665, is
by small islands and reefs, stylish gallery as well as the dedicated to the patron saint
existed here as early as the castle restaurant. of Arrecife. This triple-naved
15th century. Two forts, the Also worth visiting are the church with timber vaults
Castillo de San Gabriel Casa Augustín de la Hoz, features late-Baroque statues
(1574–99) and Castillo de now a club, and Casa de Los of San Ginés and the Virgen
San José (1771) were built to Arroyos, dating back to 1749 del Rosario, which were
protect the island from and featuring a courtyard brought from Cuba.
seaborne raiders and have with wooden galleries and a
survived to this day. well at its centre. This is now E Museo Arqueológico
The castle of St Gabriel, the home of the Centro y Etnográfico
situated on a small island, is Científico Cultural, housing C/Vargas, 1. § 928 802 884.
reached by a long # 10am–1pm, 5–8pm Mon–Fri. &
drawbridge – Puente E Museo Internacional de
de las Bolas, or “Balls Arte Contemporáneo
Bridge”. Destroyed Carretera de Puerto Naos.
during a pirate attack § 928 598 500. ^
in 1586, the castle was
restored by Italian
engineer Leonardo Costa Teguise 2
Torriani. Today it
houses a small * 4,500. @ n Avenida de las
archaeological Islas, 928 827 076.
museum. As well as
pottery, jewellery, third largest
HIS IS THE
coins and anchors
it also contains a
T resort on the island, after
Puerto del Carmen and Playa
statuette of the wizard, Blanca. Just 9 km (6 miles)
El Brujo, which northeast of Arrecife, it is
inspired César fairly new and dates back to
Manrique in his bold 1977, when the five-star Gran
design for the logo Melia Salinas hotel was built
for Timanfaya’s here with the assistance of
national park. Arrecife’s Iglesia de San Ginés César Manrique.
 L A N Z A R O T E 85

This large resort with low-rise windows and wide

holiday developments of terraces. Below
white bungalows has a golf ground, the design
course, a marina and a becomes more
shopping centre. It also has startling still. The
some pleasant sandy beaches. lower floor features
The largest and most scenic five volcanic “bubbles”
of these is Playa de las – interconnected by
Cucharas. Smart and modern, tunnels. These vast
Costa Teguise once attracted compartments, 5 m
an elite clientele (King Juan (16 ft) in diameter,
Carlos of Spain has a private were formed by
villa here) though it is today solidifying lava.
fairly similar to other resorts Each of the “bubbles”
on the island . has its own basalt
Constant breezes mean that staircase leading from
the place is popular with the lower floor to the
windsurfers. Those preferring upper level. In one
safer water sports can enjoy of the rooms, the
the water park located just upper and lower
outside town. spaces are linked by
a fig tree, which rises Taro de Tahiche, Manrique’s former home
from the lower floor
and into the drawing The broad terraces and
room above. garden are an essential part
The house, which became of the house. Situated within
the embodiment of the artist’s the garden, near the café, is a
dream to live near and in giant mural made in 1992 by
harmony with nature, now Manrique, using volcanic rock
houses a modern art museum and ceramic tiles.
which has examples of
Manrique’s own works and E Fundación
project designs, plus other César Manrique
modern art, including works Taro de Tahiche. § 928 843 138.
Monument at Playa de las of art by Pablo Picasso, # Nov–Jun: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat,
Cucharas, Costa Teguise Antonio Tapi¯s, Joan Miró, 10am-3pm Sun; Jul– Oct: 10am–7pm
and Jesús Soto. daily. &

Tahiche 3 C ÉSAR M ANRIQUE (1919–1992)

5 km (3 miles) north of Arrecife. @ César Manrique – painter, sculptor, architect, town-planner
and art restorer – was born in Arrecife. Having completed
UST OUTSIDE THE town, on his army service in 1937–39, he devoted himself to art. His
Jthethe1730–36
lava fields created by
volcanic
abstract paintings were exhibited across Europe as well as
in Japan and the United States, and he won international
eruptions, stands Taro de acclaim. In 1968, he returned to Lanzarote and brought his
Tahiche. This house was talent to bear on the task of protecting the natural
built in 1968 by César environment against the
Manrique, who lived here uncontrolled development
until 1988. Four years later he of the island for tourism.
donated Taro de Tahiche to Manrique’s efforts paid off
the Fundación César and rules were introduced
Manrique. Founded by for developers dictating the
himself and a circle of his height, style and colour of
friends, this organization aims buildings. In addition,
to promote architecture that Manrique’s own designs
is in harmony with the incorporating volcanic forms
natural environment. helped to create many
In keeping with this aim, architectural masterpieces
Manrique built his house on all the Canary Islands.
amid the island’s Manrique died in a car
characteristic blue-black lava accident in 1992 but he left
flows. The cubic forms above his mark on Lanzarote, both
ground draw on the in terms of his bold designs
traditional style of the island, and in the restrained way
though the space is opened traditional island life has César Manrique, against the
out with contemporary adapted to tourism. backdrop of immense lava fields
touches such as large
86 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

The cave features a salt lake,

connected to the ocean (look
out for the unique blind
species of crab). The bed
is below sea level and the
water level rises and falls
with the tide.
Above the caves is Jameo
Grande. This picturesque,
irregularly-shaped swimming
pool is surrounded by
artistically arranged tropical
flora. Jameo Grande opens to
an underground auditorium,
seating 600. This unique
setting is famous for its
outstanding acoustics. Apart
from the natural features in
Giant metal cactus at the entrance to Guatiza’s Jardín de Cactus the caves, another point of
interest is the exhibition on
Guatiza 4 dominated by a white volcanoes.
windmill. Growing on the Three times a week Jameos
* 820. 17 km (11 miles) northeast terraces are about 10,000 del Agua changes its image
of Arrecife. specimens, representing over and becomes a nightclub.
1,000 varieties of cactus.
HE SMALL TOWN of Guatiza,
T situated north of Lanzarote
and featuring the lovely 19th-
Y Jardín de Cactus
§ 928 529 397.
century chapel of Santa # 10am–5:45pm daily. &
Margarita, is surrounded by
vast plantations of prickly
pear. The plant is host to the Jameos del Agua 5
cochineal insect – a source of
vermilion or crimson dye. Carretera de Orzola. @ § 928 848
Situated at the very centre 020. # 9:30am–7pm daily, Wed, Thu
of the cactus fields, on the & Sat until 2am. &
outskirts of Guatiza, is the
Jardín de Cactus, designed N THE LATE 1960s, César
by César Manrique. At the
entrance to the garden,
Inatural
Manrique turned these
caves, formed within
established in 1987–92, stands a lava flow, into a complex
an 8-m (26-ft) tall metal statue of entertainment venues.
of a cactus. The large garden, Situated in the northeastern A palm beside the pool in one of
which has a good restaurant, part of the island, just a short Jameos del Agua’s sunken craters
was built in an enormous pit, walk from the sea, the caverns
originally dug by the villagers are well worth visiting. A
who were excavating volcanic staircase leads down to an Cueva de los
ash to fertilize their fields. underground restaurant and, Verdes 6
The Jardín de Cactus is further on, to a giant cave, 62
arranged in the form of a m (203 ft) long, 19 m (62 ft) 26 km (16 miles) north of Arrecife.
giant amphitheatre, wide and 21 m (70 ft) high. § 928 173 220. # 10am–5pm
daily. & 8

is a
UEVA DE LOS VERDES
C 7-km (4-mile) long
underground volcanic tunnel,
and was created by the
eruption of the nearby Monte
Corona, about 5,000 years
ago. One of the world’s
longest volcanic tunnels, it is
formed from a tube of
solidified lava. The cave’s
name has nothing to do with
its green colour. It derives
from the name of a shepherd
family, the Verdes (Greens),
Exploring the Cueva de los Verdes who inhabited it in the 18th
 L A N Z A R O T E 87

and 19th centuries. From the On the western end

17th century onwards, the of Malpaís, visible
cave was used by the local from far and wide,
population as a shelter from stands the mighty
pirates and slave traders. Monte Corona
In 1964, artificial lighting volcano. This
was installed and 2 km (1 measures 1,100 m
mile) of the cave was opened (3,600 ft) in diameter
to visitors. The tour takes at its base, and 450 m
about 50 minutes. One of the (1,500 ft) at its top Isla Graciosa, seen from Mirador de Guinate
caves included in the tour section. Standing
features a small lake. Although 609 m (2,000 ft) high, the Isla Graciosa 9
only 20 cm (8 inches) deep, eruptions of this volcano
the stone vaults reflected in produced the wide belt of * 650. g
the water make it appear far strange lava formations (the
deeper. Another cave has been Malpaís de la Corona), which HE SMALLEST inhabited
converted to a concert hall. include the Cueva de los T island of the archipelago
Verdes and Jameos del Agua. has an area of just 27 sq km
(10 sq miles). Separated from
Lanzarote by the straits of El
Orzola 8 Río, it was dubbed the
“gracious island” by Jean de
* 100. @ g Béthencourt and fully meets
the expectations of visitors
HIS FISHING VILLAGE, lying looking for a quiet rest.
T at the northern tip of
Lanzarote, is a haven of
An ideal place for scuba
divers, anglers, hikers or
peace. It is known mainly for anyone wishing to escape the
its excellent seafood brasher elements of tourism,
restaurants, which stretch Isla Graciosa plays to its
along the coastal seafront. strengths and offers a slow
Orzola is also famous for pace and a minimum of
Lichen growing on the volcanic the picturesque Playa de la amenities. The island is
debris in Malpaís de la Corona Cantería, situated to the fringed by long beaches of
west. This beach is not golden sand dunes.
Malpaís suitable for bathing, however, The most beautiful of these
as strong sea currents create is Playa de las Conchas,
de la Corona 7 unfavourable conditions. stretching over many
A frequent motorboat kilometres of the northern
HESE VOLCANICbadlands service provides links with shore. It is regarded as one of
T bear testimony to the
extreme volcanic activities
the neighbouring island of
Graciosa. From here, you
the most picturesque of all
the beaches of the archipelago
that shook the northernmost can travel by fishing boat as and provides a good view of
point of the island some far as the islands of Montaña the uninhabited smaller islands:
5,000 years ago. This wild Clara and Alegranza. Montaña Clara, Roque del
terrain, strewn with volcanic You won’t be allowed to Este and Alegranza.
rock and slowly being explore, however, as these There are no hotels on
colonized by sparse vegetation, two small and uninhabited Graciosa, but the village of
occupies 30 sq km (12 sq islands form part of the Caleta del Sebo, linked
miles) between the village of national park, which was by a ferry service to
Orzola and the headland of founded in 1986, and are Orzola, has a few pensions
Punta de Mujeres, near Arietta. off-limits to visitors. and restaurants.

Orzola, on the northern end of Malpaís de la Corona

88 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Mirador del Río 0

§ 928 173 536.
# 10am–5:45pm daily. &

HE MOST FAMOUS viewpoint

T on Lanzarote is situated at
the northernmost point of the
island, 479 m (1,630 ft) above
sea level. This spot, hidden
among rocks, provides a
breathtaking view over the
high cliffs of the northern
shore. Clearly visible is the
island of Graciosa and,
beyond it, Montaña Clara
and Alegranza.
In 1898, when Spain was at
war with the United States Haría’s town square with its restored, whitewashed houses
over Cuba, a gun
emplacement was built here, Guinate q flavour. The scenic valley in
guarding the straits of El Río, which Haría is situated,
which separate Lanzarote * 50. @ known as the “valley of a
from Graciosa. thousand palms”, was once
In 1973, the former gun ITUATED AT THE foot of the home to far more of these
emplacement was
transformed by César
S Monte Corona volcano,
Guinate is a small village that
trees. Many of them were
burned during a pirate attack
Manrique to provide a is popular with bird lovers. in 1856.
belvedere and visitors have The Parque Tropical, The shady, tree-lined
been coming here ever since. spread out on terraces, Plaza León y Castillo is
Built into the rock, with features water cascades, surrounded by restored
an enormous ponds and fine historic houses. At one end
window stretching gardens. Here you of the square stands the
the length of the can see some 1,300 church of Nuestra Señora
room, is a minimalist exotic birds, de la Encarnación.
bar and restaurant. representing about
Its stone walls are 300 species, as well E NVIRONS : Not far south of
painted white. The as many small apes. Haría is the Mirador de Haría.
only significant The famous shows A winding road leads to the
decorations inside are featuring trained birds mountain pass, providing a
the huge mobiles by are a big hit with fine view over the village, the
César Manrique. Sign at the Mirador children (look out surrounding volcanoes, the
Their function is not del Río for the scooter-riding high cliffs, and Arietta.
merely decorative; parrots!).
they are also meant to
dampen noise, because of the O Parque Tropical Teguise e
poor acoustics of the place. § 928 835 500. # 10am–5pm
daily. & * 1,500. @ n C/ General Franco, 1,
928 845 072. ( Sun. _ Nuestra
E NVIRONS : Just outside the Señora del Carmen (16 Jul), Virgen de
village, the Mirador la las Nieves (5 Aug).
Graciosa provides fine views
over Graciosa, Alegranza and of the oldest
EGUISE IS ONE
Montaña Clara. T towns on Lanzarote. It
was founded in 1418 by
Maciot – nephew and
Haría w successor of Jean de
Béthencourt – who, it is said,
* 1,100. @ n Plaza de la lived here with Princess
Constitución, 928 835 251. _ San Teguise, the daughter of the
Juan (23 Jun), San Pedro (29 Jun). Guanche king, Guadarfía.
Spacious squares and well-
,
UBIC WHITEWASHED houses, kept cobbled streets lined
C reminiscent of North
African architecture, along
with beautifully restored
houses are testimony to
with numerous palms, give Teguise’s former glory.
Tourists enjoying the wonderful this picturesque village an A good time to visit is on
view from the Mirador del Río almost Middle-Eastern Sundays, when there is a
 L A N Z A R O T E 89

flourishing handicrafts market

and folk dancing.
For centuries the town was
one of the largest and richest
on the island. Until 1852, it
was its capital city. The fame
and the wealth of Teguise,
bearing the proud name of La
Villa Real de Teguise (the
Royal City of Teguise),
attracted pirates who raided it Castillo de Santa Bárbara, high above Teguise
repeatedly. The Callejón de la
Sangre (“street of blood”) Miraflores was used as a La Caleta
owes its name to the worst of burial site for the most
these raids and commemorates prominent citizens of de Famara r
the victims of the massacre Lanzarote, and is now a venue
that took place in 1596. for cultural events. Inside the * 650. 35 km (22 miles) north of
The eclectic church of 17th-century Convento de Arrecife. @
Nuestra Señora de Santo Domingo is the SMALL FISHING village, with
Guadalupe stands in the
town square. Since its
original main altar. Now the A only a handful of
abbey houses a modern art restaurants, attracts visitors to
construction in the mid- gallery – the Centro Arte. Playa de Famara, one of the
15th century, it has Towering over the town most beautiful beaches on
been rebuilt many is the Castillo de Santa Lanzarote. Urbanizacíon
times. The interior Bárbara. The castle Famara, situated to the
furnishing is Neo- was built in the early north, is a cluster of purpose-
Gothic and features a 16th century on top of built holiday chalets.
statue of the Virgin the 452-m (1,480-ft) The beautiful 3-km (2-mile)
Mary of Guadalupe. On high Guanapay peak, long sandy beach stretches
the opposite side of the and provides a view along the base of tall cliffs
square stands the over almost the entire formed during the most
Palacio Spínola. This island. Within the recent volcanic eruption in
beautiful residence, castle is the Museo 1824. Behind the beach,
with its small patio del Emigrante which provides a wonderful
and a well, was built Lion from Canario, which view over Isla Graciosa,
in 1730–80. The Teguise Palace tells the story of runs a long band of dunes.
reconstruction work, emigrants to South The heavy swell produces
supervised by César and Central America. some splendid waves and
Manrique, has restored the makes this a popular surfing
palace interiors to their E Palacio Spínola beach, though the strong
former glory. Now the Palacio Plaza de San Miguel. currents can be dangerous.
Spínola fulfils a double § 928 845 181. # 9am–3pm The village also attracts
function as a museum and as Mon–Fri, 9:30am–2pm Sat–Sun. & quite a few painters. In view
the official residence of the E Museo del Emigrante of its rich flora and fine
Canary Islands’ government. Canario scenery this whole area,
Also of interest are two Volcán de Guanapay. including the cliffs and the
conventual churches. The § 928 845 001. # 10am–4pm Famara massif, has been
16th-century Convento de Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat–Sun. & declared a conservation area.

Playa de Famara, one of Lanzarote’s most beautiful beaches

90 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Made of old water containers

once used on fishing boats, the
monument is devoted, in
Manrique’s own words, “to the
nameless farmers, whose hard
work helped to create the
island’s unique landscape”.
The nearby Casa-Museo del
Campesino houses a cluster
of workshops devoted to
various crafts, illustrating
former rural life on Lanzarote.
Its restaurant is a good place
for lunch.

E Casa-Museo del
Campesino
Windmill and camels at the Museo Agrícola El Patio, Tiagua # 10am–6pm daily.

Tiagua t and tiny chapel of Nuestra

Señora del Pino. Today it
* 300. @ houses the Museo
Parque Nacional
Etnográfico Tanit. Various de Timanfaya u
HIS MODEST TOWN offers exhibits, such as musical
T visitors an insight into
local history and tradition.
instruments, agricultural tools,
furniture and wine production
See pp92–3.

The Museo Agrícola El equipment, illustrate the

Patio provides a glimpse of island’s economic history. In Yaiza i
past agricultural practices. the town centre is a large,
The complex was opened in stylish square, containing * 650. @ n Departamento
1994 on the site of a farm the parish church of San de Turismo, 928 518 833. _ San
dating back to 1845 when a Bartolomé (1789). Marcial (Jun), Nuestra Señora de
group of impoverished los Remedios (1st week in Sep).
farmers began E Museo Etnográfico
to cultivate the Tanit ESTLING AT THE FOOTof the
fertile land. A
century later, it was
C/ Constitucíon, 1.
§ 928 520 655.
N Montañas del Fuego,
Yaiza is regarded, along with
the biggest and # 9:30am–1:30pm Haría, as one of the most
best-run estate on Tue–Sun. & picturesque small towns on
the island. the island. In the 19th
As well as Manrique’s homage E NVIRONS : A short century, rich merchants
a number of to peasant life way north, towards settled here and to this day
well-preserved Mozaga, stands the some houses with palm-
windmills, the indoor Monumento al Campesino shaded fa˜ades bear evidence
exhibitions feature displays of (Peasant’s Monument). This 15- of this former wealth. The
folk costumes, agricultural m (50-ft) tall construction was parish church of Nuestra
tools, a loom, some fine designed by César Manrique, Señora de los Remedios
examples of plaitwork, and and built in 1968 by Jesús Soto. dates from the 18th century.
a collection of original
photographs.

E Museo Agrícola El Patio

§ 928 529 134. # 10am–5pm
Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat. &

San Bartolomé y
* 5,000. @
_ San Bartolomé (15 Aug).

NOWN TO THE Guanches

K as Ajei, San Bartolomé
has some fine examples
of traditional Canary
architecture, including the
18th-century Casa Pedromo,
with its beautiful courtyard One of the former residences in Yaiza, now a hotel
 L A N Z A R O T E 91

Playa Blanca a
* 500. @ g n Muelle de Playa
Blanca, 928 517 794. ( Wed.
_ Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Jul).

FORMER FISHING village,

A Playa Blanca has become
one of the largest resorts on
the island in recent years,
with regular ferry links
to nearby Fuerteventura.
Yet despite its numerous
restaurants, bars and shops,
Los Hervideros, south of El Golfo the village remains relatively
quiet and is a popular
This triple-naved church was destination for family holidays.
built on the site of a former Salinas It has several beaches. One
chapel dating back to 1699 de Janubio p of the best is the small beach
and has a number of fine situated near the centre,
18th-century paintings. 9 km (6 miles) north of Playa Blanca. which has clear water and
The Baroque vault wonderful views over the
decorations, incorporating of
HE GREENISH WATERS neighbouring islands of
folk elements, give the church
its unique atmosphere.
T a natural lagoon are
employed to produce salt.
Fuerteventura and Los Lobos.
The Playas de Papagayo
Numerous shops along the Long used to preserve fish, beaches, situated 4 km (2
main street sell embroidery, the salt is still extracted by miles) south of Playa Blanca,
pottery and other items. the traditional method of are also popular with visitors.
evaporation.
E NVIRONS : Just 2 km (1 mile) The sea-salt plant is
east of Yaiza, Uga is the believed to be the largest
departure point for camel trips operating on the archipelago
across the volcanic landscape. and currently produces about
2,000 tons of salt per annum.
Years ago, the water was
El Golfo o pumped into the lagoon by
windpower; today the pumps
* 110. 7 km (4 miles) northwest are electrically driven.
of Yaiza. Most of the local salt is still
bought by fishermen, with a Castillo de las Coloradas, one of
HE SLEEPY VILLAGE of El small portion sold as table Playa Blanca’s former defences
T Golfo is home to a small
crater lagoon, Lago Verde,
salt. Each year, during the
Corpus Christi festival, E NVIRONS : The Castillo de
which was created by the an the local inhabitants use las Coloradas, in Punta del
underwater volcano. Its tons of dyed salt to create Águila, is a watchtower dating
emerald-green colour is due magnificent decorations for from 1741–8. Between here
to the sea algae that thrive in the streets and squares of and Punta de Papagayo is a
it. El Golfo’s restaurants make the island’s capital. string of scenic coves with
it popular with tourists while sandy beaches: Playa de las
the presence of olivine (an Mujeres, El Pozo and
olive-green semi-precious Papagayo. Their fine sand
stone) attracts geologists and and warm, clear waters attract
jewellery makers to the area. an ever-increasing number
Taking the path from the of visitors.
village, you get the best view This area is a part of the
of the lake, which is Los Ajaches nature reserve,
surrounded by dramatic, created in 1994, which
volcanic rocks resembling a includes a bird protection
petrified wave, and separated zone. There is an entrance
from the ocean by a narrow charge and the only access
strip of black volcanic sand. from Playa Blanca is by
a minor road. Nearby, on the
E NVIRONS : South of El Golfo very edge of a cliff, are the
are Los Hervideros (“the remains of the island’s first
kettles”). As the name Norman settlement, San
suggests, the waves “boil” Marcial del Rubicón,
inside the vast caves of the Sunset over the checkerboard founded in 1402 by Jean
15-m (50-ft) high cliffs. salt pans of Salinas de Janubio de Béthencourt.
92 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Parque Nacional de Timanfaya u

ETWEEN1730 1736 the Montañas del Fuego – or

AND
B Fire Mountains – belched forth smoke and molten
lava, burying entire villages, and turning the island’s
fertile lowlands into a sea of solidified lava, grey
volcanic rock and copper-coloured sand. Today, the
lava remains are Lanzarote’s greatest attraction. Situated
to the southwest, they have become the heart of the
national park, established in 1974, and include the 517-
m (1,700-ft) Pico Portido. For the time being, the area is
quite safe, though the lava still bubbles away under the Park Logo
surface and a whiff of sulphur
p hangs
g in the air. This mischievous little devil,

Montañass del
Femés offerrs a s
Fire Mounttains
at close ran
nge t
appreciate the a
The lava fiields
foot with a guid
part of a caamel

K EY
Minor road
d

Other road
d

Footpath

Park boun
ndary

@ Bus

n Tourist infformat

0 Restaurantt

J Viewpointt

Echadero
de los Camellos
This dromedary station
includes a small
exhibition illustrating
the use of camels by
humans. Camelback
tours last half an hour
and take in the outer
reaches of the park.
 P A R Q U E N A C I O N A L D E T I M A N F A Y A 93

V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
Centro de Visitantes
Interpretación, Mancha Blanca.
n C/Languneta, 64. Tinajo,
928 840 238, 928 840 240.
` 928 840 251.
# 10am–6pm daily.
&8h0

Geyser
red into
es turns
econds.
has the
ground
he park,
112° F)
(40 ft).

n
0@

. Volcanic Grill
ntage of the 300° C (572° F) temperatures,
grill is used to cook meat and fish at the El
rant, designed by César Manrique (1970).

0 miles 1

S TAR S IGHTS
. Ruta de los Volcanes . Ruta de los Volcanes
This is the most interesting part of the national park open to
. Volcanic Grill visitors. However, there is a wide variety of different landscapes
and volcanic formations elsewhere in the park.
94 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Femés s
* 230. _ San Marcial (7 Jul).

VERLOOKED BY THE 608-m

O (2,000-ft) high volcanic
peak of Atalaya de Femés,
this village once boasted one
of the island’s oldest religious
buildings – the Ermita San
Marcial del Rubicón
cathedral, devoted to the
patron saint of the island and
destroyed in the 16th century
by pirates. The present Ermita San Marcial del Rubicón, in Femés
church, built on the site in
1733, is devoted to the same La Gería d miles) and have been
saint. Its white-painted walls declared a protected area.
are decorated with models of Northeast of Uga. The valley, right up to the
sailing ships, testimony to the volcanic slopes, is dotted
seafaring heritage of the TRETCHING ON BOTH sides of with small hollows, sheltered
Canary Islands. Unfortunately,
the church is open only
SUga,thetheroadvalleyfromofMasdache to
La Gería is
from the drying wind by low,
semicircular walls. Each
during services. the main vine-growing area hollow (gería) is covered
In the centre of Femés, by on Lanzarote. Set within this with volcanic cinder that
the side of the road, is a fine black cinder landscape that absorbs dew at night and
viewpoint, which provides a once featured only the maintains the required
scenic panorama of Montaña occasional palm tree, the humidity. Each contains a
Roja and the ocean. The vineyards look as if they have single vine. There are over
opposite side of town been transplanted wholesale 10,000 such hollows here.
overlooks the panorama from another planet. They The grapes are used to
of Montañas del Fuego. occupy 52 sq km (20 sq produce the very sweet and

Lanzarote’s Beaches
ANZAROTE S ’ 250-km (150-mile) lon
Lmiles)shoreline offers only 30 km (20
of sandy beaches, some of
which are popular with nudists (see
p181)). In contrast to the long beach
of Fuerteventura, these are usually
fairly small and consist of golden or
white sand, with over 30 per cent o
them artificial. Particularly beautiful
beaches are found north of Arrecife

Playas de Papagayo 1
A dirt track leads to several lovely sandy
beaches, situated in a picturesque cove at
the foot of a high cliff, on the southern 1
shore of the island. The journey is rewarde
by the sheer beauty of the area.
 L A N Z A R O T E 95

aromatic Malvasía – an Puerto villas, there is no shortage

excellent quality wine for of shops, nightclubs, banks
which Lanzarote is famous. del Carmen f and restaurants. Numerous
Malvasía, as well as other agencies encourage visitors to
* 2,700. @ g n Avda. de las
brands of local wine, can be sample the local attractions,
Playas, 928 513 351. _ Nuestra
purchased cheaply in one of such as windsurfing, diving,
Señora del Carmen (Aug).
the many local bodegas (wine- fishing and trips by catamaran
shops). All visitors coming to N RECENT YEARS this fishing to Fuerteventura and Lobos.
bodegas may sample the wine
before buying.
Ithevillage has become one of
island’s top resorts. Visitors E NVIRONS : Just 9 km (6 miles)
The vineyards tend to be come for the beaches along to the north, Puerto Calero
small. El Grifo, situated at the Avenida de las Playas, has the island’s loveliest
the northern end of La Gería, which are regarded as some marina. It also offers boat
is a good example. Its of the island’s most beautiful. rides to the Papagayo
outbuildings house a wine In Puerto del Carmen, beaches and submarine trips
museum – Museo del Vino which is densely filled with for glimpses of the rich life
de Lanzarote – arranged in hotels, pensions and white beneath the Atlantic waves.
an old bodega dating from
1775. Apart from the old
equipment used in the
production and storage of
wine, the museum has a
library with more than 1,000
books, plus several 17th- and
18th-century manuscripts
devoted to winemaking.

E Museo del Vino

de Lanzarote
§ 928 524 951.
# 10:30am–6pm daily.
∑ www.elgrifo.com The harbour district, the oldest part of Puerto del Carmen

3
 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 97

TENERIFE
N THE LANGUAGE OF the Guanches the name Tenerife meant “white

I mountain”. This referred to the looming Pico del Teide – Spain’s

tallest peak. The 3,718-m (12,195-ft) volcano is at the heart of the
island and forms part of the national park, attracting many
thousands of visitors every year. Depending on the season, its summit
is enveloped in clouds, sulphur or a good dusting of snow.

Covering an area of 2,354 Its beginnings go back to

sq km (908 sq miles), the late 19th century when
Tenerife is the largest of the first tourists arrived in
the archipelago’s islands. search of blue skies, sun and
Situated between La Gomera clean air. The first hotel – the
and Gran Canaria, 300 km Grand Hotel Taoro in Puerto
(186 miles) from Africa, it de la Cruz – was built in 1892
has about 850,000 inhabitants. and was then one of the
The northern areas are the Balcony adorning a largest hotels in Spain.
most densely populated, in house in La Orotava However, the real boom in
particular around Santa Cruz tourism began in the late
– the island and provincial capital. 1960s. At first, tourists came mainly
Pico del Teide divides the island to the fertile, northern region of the
into two distinct climate zones. island. Soon, however, tourism
Sheltered by the crater, the reached the south and, before long,
northwestern area is humid, covered its rocky shores were covered with
in lush tropical vegetation, and many truck-loads of sand imported
supports evergreen vineyards. The from the Sahara. Investment was
southern part is hot, rocky and arid. stepped up with the addition of
Because of this, Tenerife, like Gran smart hotels and a dash of greenery.
Canaria, is often referred to as a The gamble paid off and today most
“miniature continent”. of the visitors to Tenerife prefer the
By far the most important element southern resorts, such as Playa de las
of the island’s economy is tourism. Américas and Los Cristianos.

The seafront boulevard, Playa de las Américas

Pico del Teide, the symbol of Tenerife, visible from almost everywhere on the island
98

Ex
T
Ac
attrac
A T L A NT I C
SANTA CRUZ
O C E AN

DE TENERIFE
FE
in lar
to in LA
AS PALMAS
A
volca DE GRAN CANARIA
river
and
villag
In Fe
colou
exub
7
8

q 0 9

w
e

0 km

0 mil
u

t
g
ki

in the south and Los Rodeos in the north. Both

airports are able to receive international and charter
flights. Ferries from Tenerife sail to all the islands of
the archipelago and to Cadiz. TITSA lines provide
bus transport, although not everywhere on the island
has bus links. In this case, visitors should make the
Masca, one of the most beautiful most of organized coach tours or hire a car.
villages on Tenerife
 99

4 3

2
5 k

1g

El Médano i Parque Nacional del Teide Santiago del Teide e

Garachico q pp118–19 y Tacoronte 5
Güimar p Playa de las Américas Vilaflor u
Icod de los Vinos 0 and Los Cristianos t
La Laguna 2 Puerto de la Cruz pp112–13 7 Tours
La Orotava pp108–11 6 Los Gigantes and Puerto Anaga Mountains pp104–5 3
Loro Parque pp114–15 8 de Santiago r
100 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Santa Cruz de Tenerife 1 P Plaza de España

The circular Plaza de España
ANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE took its name from the Holy is in the town centre near the
Sde Cross of the conquistadors, which Alonso Fernández
Lugo erected after landing on Añaza beach in 1494.
harbour. The giant monument
standing in the middle of the
square – Monumento de los
During the 16th century, this former fishing village Caídos – featuring bronze
became an important port for land-locked La Laguna. figures, is the work of
Since 1723, the town has been the administrative centre Enrique César Zadivar and
of Tenerife, and was the capital of the entire commemorates the victims of
archipelago from 1822–1927. Today, the economic life the 1936–39 civil war.
of Santa Cruz is dominated by its deep-water harbour, The vast building on the
which can accommodate luxury liners, tankers arriving south side of the square is the
from Venezuela and the Middle East, and container ships Cabildo Insular and was
designed by José Enrique
loaded with bananas and tomatoes ready for export. Marrero. An example of the
Fascist architecture of the
of the Guanches, it also 1930s, it houses Tenerife’s
displays a small collection of council building and Santa
artifacts (including pottery, Cruz’s main tourist office.
African carvings and pre-
Columbian art) as well as P Plaza de la Candelaria
fossils from around the world. Plaza de Candelaria is a
popular local meeting place
R Iglesia de Nuestra Señora and promenade. Laid out in
de la Concepción 1701, it adjoins Plaza de
C/Domínguez Alfonso. España on the west. Its
Though this church was official name is Plaza de
built in 1498, its present la Constitución. The
appearance is the result monument standing at
of reconstruction work its centre – El Triunfo
carried out in the de la Candelaria –
second half of the 18th depicts the patron saint
The imposing bell tower of Nuestra century. Its richly of the island. Carved in
Señora de la Concepción furnished interior white Carrara marble
features paintings and and unveiled in 1787, it
Exploring Santa Cruz sculptures, including is the work of the Italian
de Tenerife the magnificent main master, Antonio Canova.
Though it does not have altar by José Luján Peréz. Another landmark on
many historic sights, the The church serves as a the square is the
capital of Tenerife has many pantheon and houses Palacio de Carta
attractions. The town’s unique mementoes of the Madonna at Plaza (1742). Formerly the
atmosphere is provided by island’s history, de la Candelaria Prefecture, it now
the 19th-century, colonial- including a silver contains a branch
style architecture. Visitors cross (Santa Cruz) of the of the Banco Español de
come for the plentiful conquistadors and British flags Crédito. It is worth seeking
shopping opportunities, the captured during Nelson’s out for its fine example of a
museums and art galleries, attack on the city in 1797. traditional Canary patio.
the musical repertoire of the
Tenerife Auditorium, the
annual classical music festival
and, above all, the carnival.

E Museo de la Naturaleza
y el Hombre
C/Fuente Morales, s/n.
§ 922 535 816. # 9am–7pm
Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 Jan, 24–25 Dec. &
The natural history museum
occupies a Classical building
that was once a military
hospital. The exhibition is a
colourful multimedia show
dedicated to the geology,
archaeology, and flora and
fauna of the Canary Islands.
In addition to the ever-
popular mummies and skulls Plaza de España, a good orientation point when exploring the town
 T E N E R I F E 101

P Mercado de Nuestra
Señora de África
V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
Avenida de San Sebastián * 250,000. @ g
# 9am–3pm Mon–Sat. n Plaza de España,
This large market-hall on two 922 239 585.
levels was built in 1943 in the ( daily. _ Carnival (Feb),
style of North African Día de la Cruz (3 May), Nuestra
architecture. Exotic fruit, Señora del Carmen (16 Jul).
vegetables, flowers, fresh fish,
poultry, cheeses, herbs and
spices are always available in E Museo de Bellas Artes
this busy little spot. C/José Murphy, 12. § 922 244 358.
# 10am–7:30pm Mon–Fri (phone
R Iglesia San Francisco to confirm). &
C/Villalba. Founded in 1898, the Museo
Opposite the Museo de Bellas de Bellas Artes’ prize
Artes stands the monumental possessions are its exhibits
Franciscan abbey founded from the Prado Museum,
Calle Castillo, the main shopping around 1680. It was restored including works by old
street, also good for handicrafts and extended in the 18th masters, such as Jan Brueghel
century and acquired two and José de Ribera, as well
P Calle Castillo naves and a coffered as works by anonymous
Many visitors come to Santa ceiling, as well as an Spanish painters from the
Cruz with the sole purpose additional chapel named 17th and 18th centuries.
of spending a few hours Capilla de la Orden In addition to
in the little shops in and Tercera. collections of coins
around Calle Castillo – the Inside the abbey and armour, there
main pedestrianized church there is a is an exhibition of
shopping precinct. fine 17th-century modern Canary
Except during the siesta, wooden altar and art, with many
which takes place between pulpit with paintings depicting
1–4:30pm, bargains are to be beautifully painted local events and
had in the local shops lining decorations. The landscapes of the
this attractive narrow street, chapel, which was archipelago, such
whether they be electronic closed in the mid- as Santa Cruz
goods, watches or designer- 19th century, was Harbour or
label clothes. Several large reopened in 1869, Landscape around
handicraft centres sell at which time it Laguna, by
embroidery, wickerwork became the Baroque portal of the Valentín Sanza y
and pottery. parish church. Iglesia San Francisco Carta (1849–98).

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE

Calle Castillo 5 h
h
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora 7
6
de la Concepción 2
Iglesia San Francisco 6
Mercado de Nuestra Señora 5
de África 8
Museo de Bellas Artes 7
Museo de la Naturaleza
4
y el Hombre 1
Plaza de la Candelaria
Plaza de España 3 N
3
0m 100
n
0 yards 100

K EY
h Parking 2

n Tourist information h
h

N Post office
1
102 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

landscaped areas of trees and

shrubs. The place, popular
with the inhabitants of Santa
Cruz, has a circle of original
benches made of stone
imported from Seville. Note
the backrests decorated with
ceramic tiles featuring old
advertisements.

Y Parque García Sanabria

Established in the 1920s, this
attractive and peaceful park
was named after the mayor
of Santa Cruz. The park is
full of lush tropical plants and
has a wonderful collection of
The palm-shaded Plaza del 25 de Julio trees. It has since been
improved by the addition of
Y Parque Marítimo two busy traffic lanes. Planted a fountain and a number of
Designed by the famous with tall palms and laurel modern sculptures. Besides
Canary architect and artist trees, it is a veritable “art being a good place to cool
César Manrique (see p85), the boulevard”. Modern off, the park provides a brief
construction of the park sculptures are set amid the lesson in Tenerife’s history.
began in 1995. The capital trees, which are illuminated The backrests of three benches
has thus acquired an at night and bear plaques depict the arrival of the
innovative recreation area with the names of famous conquistadors, the daily life of
with two giant swimming artists from around the world, the Guanches and their defeat
pools, a children’s paddling including Michelangelo, at the battle of Acentejo.
pool, and a beach. Work is Vermeer, Piranesi, Warhol
currently under way to build and Pollock. Every Sunday, E Museo Militar
an adjacent “Palmetum” – a a lively antiques fair takes de Canarias
park displaying all the world’s place here. C/San Isidro, 2. § 922 274 224.
species of palm trees. # 10am–2pm Tue–Sat. &
Founded in 1988, the
+ Castillo de San Juan museum occupies the former
Situated on the waterfront, premises of the Curatel de
the protective fort of Castillo Almeida, a fortress dating
de San Juan was built in 1643. back to 1884. The exhibition
One of its functions was to features ancient weapons of
guard the safety of the port, the Canary Islands, 17th-
once famous for the trade in century Spanish militaria,
African slaves that was carried and weapons dating from the
out on the Los Llanos wharf. 19th century.
The nearby small chapel of Banners, uniforms and the
Nuestra Señora de Regle personal belongings of many
dates from the same period. famous soldiers form a major
Now both these buildings are Lush, green avenue in Parque part of the exhibition. A
overshadowed by the colossal García Sanabria separate section is devoted to
edifice of the Auditorio the July 1797 battle against
de Tenerife, which is to P Plaza del 25 de Julio the British fleet under Nelson.
become the island’s leading The 25th of July Plaza is a The most famous exhibit – El
performing arts venue. green oasis at the centre of Tigre – is a cannon that fired
the crowded, buzzing city. Its the grapeshot that tore
P Rambla charm is enhanced by the into Nelson’s arm during
del General Franco central fountains and the attack on Santa Cruz.
This is one of the most
elegant streets in Santa Cruz.
With its smart houses,
numerous restaurants and
cafés, it sweeps in a semi-
circle through most of the
town. At its northern end, at
the junction with Avenida de
Francisco La Roche, stands an
enormous monument to
General Franco. Its wide
central reservation separates Henry Moore sculpture in Rambla del General Franco
 T E N E R I F E 103

La Laguna 2 the history of the island from

the times of the Spanish
* 130,000. @ n C/Carrera, 1, conquest through to the 20th
922 601 106. ( daily. century. The collection
_ San Benito Abad (1st Sun in Jul), includes old documents, tools
Santísimo Cristo (7–15 Sep). and 16th-century paintings.
Among the highlights are
FFICIALLY NAMED Ciudad de some of the oldest maps of
O San Cristóbal de la
Laguna, La Laguna is
the archipelago.
Nearby is another
Tenerife’s second largest noteworthy building – the
town. Situated in the middle Palacio Episcopal. The
of the fertile valley of bishop’s palace features a
Aguerre, it owes its name to beautiful stone fa˜ade dating
the lagoon on whose shores from 1681. Of equal interest
it stood, which was drained are some 19th-century
in 1837. buildings, such as the Casino
Founded in 1496 by the de la Laguna (1899)
conquistador Alonso whose creators drew on
Fernández de Lugo, the town French designs, and the
was the original residence of ayuntamiento – the town Portal of Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
the Adelantados – the island’s hall of 1829 that houses the de la Concepción
military governors. Until 1723, banner under which de Lugo
La Laguna was capital of the fought during his conquest To the east of Plaza de
island but moving the capital of Tenerife (see p32). Adelantado stands the
to Santa Cruz has done The present town hall, Cathedral (1904–15). The
nothing to hinder with its interior building features a twin-
the town’s frescoes illustrating towered fa˜ade dating from
development. the island’s history, 1825. The main feature of the
La Laguna is a stands in Plaza de interior is the magnificent
university town Adelantado. The retable (or alterpiece) at the
and its academic adjacent church of back of the altar, dating from
traditions go back to San Miguel (1507) the first half of the 18th
the first half of the was founded by de century. Behind the main
18th century. St Christopher, La Lugo himself. Also altar stands the simple tomb
San Fernando Laguna’s patron saint in the tree-shaded of Alonso de Lugo.
University, still in square is the In Plaza de la Concepción
existence, opened its doors Convento de Santa stands the Iglesia de Nuestra
for the first time in 1817. Catalina, with its original Señora de la Concepción
Since 1818, the town has cloisters, and the Palacio de (1502) – an example of the
been a bishopric. Nava – a good example of architectural style dating from
Despite its dynamic Spanish colonial architecture. the time of the conquest.
development (with some of Behind the square is a large This triple-naved Gothic-
the suburbs virtually merging market hall, selling fruit, Renaissance church features
with Santa Cruz), the old cheese and flowers. a magnificent reconstructed
town’s layout has maintained wooden vault. Each
its traditional form with year, in August,
a network of narrow streets thousands of pilgrims
and alleys following a flock to the Santuario
chequerboard pattern. The del Cristo – a small
district includes several church at the northern
noteworthy houses that have end of La Laguna’s old
wooden balconies and lavish quarter – to pay homage
portals crowned with crests. to a statue of Christ
They include Casa del carved in the late 15th
Corregidor and Casa de la century. This fine Gothic
Alhondiga (both dating from sculpture by an
the 16th century), the 17th- unknown artist was
century Casa Alvaro brought to Tenerife
Bragamonte and the 18th- in 1520, by Alonso
century Casa Mesa and Casa de Lugo.
de los Capitanes.
The meticulously restored E Museo de Historia
Casa Lercaro, built in 1593 de Tenerife
by Genoese merchants, now C/San Augustín, 22. § 922
houses the Museo de 825 949. # 9am–7pm
Historia de Tenerife. Tue–Sun. ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 24–25
Opened in 1993, it presents Patio of the Palacio Episcopal & 31 Dec. &
104 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Anaga Mountains 3

volcanic peaks, the Anaga

PICTURESQUE RANGE OF
A Mountains are lush and green thanks to a cool,
wet climate. Narrow tracks lead through craggy,
inaccessible valleys, and wind among steep rock
faces and dense forests. For walkers, the effort
required to deal with arduous paths is amply
rewarded by the breathtaking views of the rocky
coast below, and by the chance to see a wide
variety of birds and plants.
Cliffs 0
These tall, rugged
cliffs, which run
west of Taganana,
thrust their way into
an often rough
ocean, creating
picturesque nooks
and inlets. They are
difficult to reach,
and are best 0
admired from
the deck of a
cruising boat. 9

Road to La Laguna q
Known as the gate to the Ana
Mountains, the road to La Lagu
runs from Mirador Pico del Ing
through the Las Mercedes plat

F LORA OF THE A NAGA M OUNTAINS

The lush, evergreen
vegetation of this remote
region, including forests
of laurel and juniper trees,
and heather, ferns and
herbs gives the air its spicy
scent. This area is
deservedly popular with
nature lovers. Dense bushes 1
shelter the twisting roads
from the wind, but are
difficult to trek through
when straying from a trail or
path. Although the weather
is not very warm, the humid The capital of Tenerife, in the
air encourages the growth Heather and ferns on the northeastern part of the island
of vegetation. roadside near Chinobre is the start of the two motorways
– del Norte and del Sur.
 T E N E R I F E 105

V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
Length of route: about 65 km
(40 miles).
Stopping places: all stops along
the route have a bar or restaurant.
Further information: Canarias
Trekking, Santa Cruz, Calle
Quevedo 1, 922 201 051. There
are no fuel stations between La
Laguna and San Andrés.

Faro de Anaga 7
m Chamorga – one of the
t villages on Tenerife – a
2 km (1 mile) long, runs
to the Anaga lighthouse,
h stands on a high peak.

7
8

Chinobre 6
5 ng from the El Bailadero
re is where, according to
witches used to hold their
teen kilometers (8 miles)
4
t the foot of the Taborno
Mirador Pico del Inglés.

3
2

ested route

r road
place an exotic character,
the beach is a favourite Footpath
spot with people from
J Viewpoint
Santa Cruz.
106 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Puerto de la Cruz 7
See pp112–13.

Loro Parque 8
See pp114–15.

Los Realejos 9
* 17,000. @
_ San Sebastián (22 Jan).
Around the rocky swimming pools in Bajamar
SPRAWLING TOWNoverlooked
Bajamar 4 Tacoronte has two churches:
the Iglesia del Cristo de los
A by the peak of the Tigaiga
Mountain, and criss-crossed
* 1,800. @ Dolores features a revered with a network of steep and
17th-century statue of Christ, winding streets, Los Realejos
HE INHABITANTSof Bajamar which during the harvest consists of two parts: Realejo
T once made their living
from fishing and cultivating
festival is carried through the
streets of the town. Also
Bajo (the lower town) and
Realejo Alto (the upper town).
sugar cane. In recent years it noteworthy are the Baroque The town played an
has become popular as a woodcarvings decorating the important part in Tenerife’s
resort and is a well-known interior. The Iglesia de Santa history. It was here that the
tourist centre for Tenerife’s Catalina (1664) has a fine last free chieftains of the
northern coast. The high wooden vault and rich Guanches surrendered to the
coastal cliffs and the soaring interior furnishings. Spanish invaders in 1496.
peaks of Monte de las In the upper part of Los
Mercedes provide a scenic E NVIRONS : Famed for its Realejos stands the Iglesia de
backdrop for the numerous wine, El Sauzal is a short Santiago Apóstol (1498).
hotels and bungalows. The way to the south. Its main The oldest church on the
main road is lined with attraction is La Casa del Vino island, it has a beautiful
restaurants and cafés. Visitors La Baranda – a complex in a mudéjar (Spanish-Moorish)
who like bathing will enjoy renovated country house, wooden vault. At the
the large complex of sea- which comprises a wine entrance to the town, from
water swimming pools. museum, wine-tasting hall, the direction of Puerto de la
bar and store, as well as an Cruz, stands a romantic
E NVIRONS : Some 4 km excellent restaurant. castle, built in 1862. This
(2 miles) to the northeast is square structure, with four
Punta del Hidalgo – a almost round towers at its
headland offering a fine view La Orotava 6 corners, is set in a beautifully
of the rocky coast and banana tended garden. Unlike other
plantations. Strong winds See pp108–11. fortresses on the Canary
create excellent conditions for
windsurfing though the
currents make it dangerous
for novices. Punta del Hidalgo
is a starting point for a
marked hiking trail to the
cave dwellings at Chinamada.

Tacoronte 5
* 3,500. @ ( Sat, Sun.
_ Cristo de los Dolores (1st Sun
after 15 Sep).

, set 450 m
COASTAL VILLAGE
A (1,476 ft) above sea level,
Tacoronte and its environs
are famous for their excellent
wines. When in the area, you
should visit one of the many
wineries to sample some of
the fine local vintages. Tacoronte, situated on the coast and surrounded by vineyards
 T E N E R I F E 107

eruption of the Volcán Negro

in 1706 put an end to its
prosperity. Lava buried whole
districts and most of the
harbour, with only a handful
of houses escaping destruction,
together with the Castillo de
San Miguel (1575), which
guards Garachico Bay. The
only portion of the former
Santa Ana church to escape
is the 16th-century fa˜ade.
The restored interior has a
Baroque font and a crucifix
attributed to Martín de Andujar.
Other relics of the town’s
former glory include the
Los Realejos castle, among its garden and tall palms Palacio de Los Condes de
la Gomera (Palace of the
Islands, built during the 16th 2.45 m (8 ft) high. Weighing Counts of Gomera), standing
and 17th centuries on the 48.3 kg (106 lb), this gleaming in Plaza de la Libertad, and
ocean coast for defence, the filigree silver cross is thought several former convents,
Los Realejos castle was never to be the largest ever made. including the 17th-century
used for military purposes. At Mariposario del Drago, Santo Domingo, now a
close to the dragon tree, you modern art museum, and San
can learn about the life cycle Francisco Nuestra Señora
Icod de los Vinos 0 of butterflies. This covered de los Angeles. A section of
attraction has many tropical this 18th-century convent is
* 8,000. n 922 869 600. @ butterflies, which flutter freely occupied by a modest
_ San Antonio Abad (22 Jan), San among jungle vegetation and museum – Casa de la
Marcos (Mar), Fiestas del Cristo del water gardens. Cultura. Also in the Plaza de
Drago (1st Sun after 17 Sep). la Libertad is a monument to
E Museo Simón Bolívar, liberator of
S ITSname de Arte Sacro South America. Leading from
A suggests, this
small town is
Iglesia San Marco.
§ 922 810 695.
the square, Estaba de Porte
is lined with houses that have
in the heart of # 9:30am–6pm. ¢ Sun. fine wooden balconies.
a fertile wine- E Mariposario Every winter, Garachico is
growing region. del Drago battered by Atlantic gales.
However, tourists Avenida de Canarias, s/n. The huge waves are truly
visit Icod mainly in Huge dragon tree, § 922 815 167. spectacular, especially when
order to see the in Icod de Vinos # 9am–6pm daily. & the water level drops to reveal
legendary symbol of the vast Roque de Garachico.
the islands – the Drago
Milenario. Reputed to be Garachico q E Museo de Arte
over 1,000 years old, this Contemporáneo
dragon tree is probably half * 2,500. @ Plaza de Santo Domingo.
that age. The biggest _ San Sebastián (20 Jan), Romería § 922 830 000. # 10am–1pm,
specimen in the archipelago, de San Roque (16 Aug). 3–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun. &
it is best seen from the Plaza
de la Iglesia. STABLISHED IN the
The triple-naved church of
San Marcos was built in the
E 16th century by
Genoese merchants,
15th and 16th centuries. Its Garachico, on the
interior features a beautiful north coast of Tenerife
coffered ceiling and a silver is a jewel of a town,
high alter. Other interesting with several historic
items include the painting of buildings and
Santa Ana, attributed to traditional-style
Bartolomé Murillo, and a fine houses providing
marble font (1696). a rare sense of
One of the chapels houses architectural unity.
the Museo de Arte Sacro. Garachico was once
The jewel of its collection is the most important
an enormous filigree silver port on the island
cross. Made in Cuba in (later developing into
1663–8, by Jeronimo de a centre of sugar
Espellosa y Vallabridge, it is production) until the Entrance to Castillo de San Miguel, Garachico
108 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

La Orotava 6 P Calle Carrera Escultor

Estévez
RIOR TO THE CONQUESTof the island, the The town’s defining feature
P town of La Orotava, situated on Tiede’s
northern slopes, belonged to Taoro – the
is the chain of streets,
including Doctor Domingo
González Garcia, San
richest of the Guanche kingdoms on Francisco and Calle Carrera
Tenerife. Soon after the Spanish conquest, Escultor Estévez, which run in
settlers from Andalusia populated the a semicircle through the old
Decorative Orotava valley and the first churches and part of La Orotava. Lined with
gargoyle residences appeared in the 16th century. charming houses built mostly
The beauty of their wooden decorations is
reminiscent of the Arabian palaces of Southern Spain.
After gaining its independence from La Laguna in 1648,
La Orotava began to develop rapidly and, today, it is
one of the loveliest towns in the entire archipelago.

Exploring La Orotava The magnificent interior, with

La Orotava is one of the best- its wooden sculptures created
preserved old towns on by several local artists,
Tenerife. Its steep, narrow, including Fernando Estévez
cobbled streets captivate and José Luján Pérez, is only
most visitors as do the enhanced by the recordings
enchanting 17th- and 18th- of Mozart’s music, which are
century townhouses. Their played here almost all day.
wooden, exquisitely carved The original church, built in
balconies, fashioned from the 16th century, was
dark wood, represent the destroyed by earthquakes in Carrera Escultor Estévez, the
quintessence of Canary 1704 and 1705. The present main street in La Orotava
architecture. triple-naved church is the
Most of the interesting result of restoration work in the second half of the 19th
buildings are found in the carried out between 1768 and century, the streets wind up
compact old town. Excellent 1788 by two architects – the hill toward Plaza del
signposting makes it easy to Diego Nicolás and Ventury General Franco. The tourist
find all of the sights. Rodríguez – who together office at No. 2 Calle Carrera
produced this fine example of Escultor Estévez can supply
R Iglesia de la Concepción Canary Baroque architecture, free town maps indicating the
Plaza Casañas. § 922 326 464. which takes much of its must-see sights along this
# daily. inspiration from the sacral street. One interesting
The Iglesia de la Concepción, buildings of Latin stopping-off point is El Pueblo
or Church of the Immaculate America. In 1948, Guanche – an ethnographic
Conception, the church was museum occupying a
presents a unique listed as a national renovated townhouse. The
atmosphere. monument. museum has a shop selling
handicrafts and food products
and also a restaurant.

P Plaza de Ayuntamiento
During Corpus Christi, this
pleasant square, which is
situated at the very heart of
the old town and towered
over by its Neo-Classical town
hall, becomes the focus of
religious celebrations. At
this time, the paving stones
of the tree-lined square are
covered with unusual,
colourful “carpets”, created
from volcanic ash, soil and
sand. Visitors can take home
images of these fleeting
works of art because they are
recorded on colourful post-
cards that can be found on
sale throughout the town all
The imposing fa˜ade of the Iglesia de la Concepción year round.
 T E N E R I F E 109

V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
* 40,000. @ n Carrera
Escultor Estévez, 2, 922 323 041.
` 922 321 142. _ Carnival
(Feb), Corpus Cristi (Jun).

evenings. The Plaza, a relic of

the old town’s merchant past,
has a tree-lined terrace,
offering fine views over the
buildings below. The
multicoloured roof tiles and
The tree-lined Plaza de la Constitución slender church towers
combine to produce a
P Palacio Municipal shoots and cuttings taken memorable panorama of the
The town’s administration from the Jardín Botánico in town and valley that is
centre is the ayuntamiento – Puerto de la Cruz, which is reminiscent of Florence.
the late Neo-Classical town famous throughout the
hall, built in 1871–91, which Canary Islands. This process R Iglesia de San Agustín
has a modest fa˜ade virtually gave the garden its name, The north side of the Plaza
free of decoration. Its vault is Hijuela del Botánico, meaning de la Constitución is
painted with the heraldic arms “daughter of the botanical occupied by the church
of other towns on Tenerife, garden”. Today, the and abbey of St
and with wall carvings relatively small garden Augustine. Dating
depicting allegorical figures, is blooming and from the 17th
which represent agriculture, features over 3,000 century, this
history, morality and the law. species of tropical and building features
Its patio once featured the subtropical plants. a beautiful fa˜ade
oldest and largest dragon with a Renaissance-
tree in the Canary Islands, P Plaza de la Baroque portal.
which was destroyed during Constitución The church has
a storm in 1868. This is a good place many fine historic
to sit down and remains and
Y Hijuela del Botánico admire La Orotava a panelled
C/Hermano Apolinar. from the comfort ceiling, while
# daily from dawn till dusk. of one of the bars the former
La Orotava’s botanical garden and cafés, which Decorations on the abbey is now a
was established in 1923 using come to life in the Iglesia de San Agustín school of music.

6
N

1
2

3
4
n
5
N
110 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

P Calle Tomás Zerolo P Casa del Turista Domingo González García.

Almost every street or alley in Calle San Francisco, 4. The street features a number
La Orotava offers some historic § 922 330 629. # 9am–7pm of 17th- and 18th-century
interest. Calle Tomás Zerolo, Mon–Fri, 8:30am–5pm Sat. mills that once produced
which passes through the Standing on the opposite side gofio (a roasted mixture of
lower part of the old town, of the road to the Casa wheat, maize or
is no exception. It features de los Balcones is the barley). One of these
the Convento de Santo Casa del Turista, also mills is still working.
Domingo, which has a small known as the Casa de Here, visitors can see
museum of Latin American Molina. This is a the entire process of
handicrafts, and, opposite it, magnificent Canary flour production, as
the Casa Torrehermosa – a townhouse once well as buy the end
colonial-style house built in belonging to a product. One room
the 17th century for the wealthy family. has a display
Hermosa family. Today, this It was known showing the
residence houses the Impresa collectively (with the production process
Insular de Artesanía – a small 17th-century Casa prior to the
workshop and museum Mesa and the Casa introduction of
devoted to local handicrafts. de los Lercaro) as electrical machinery.
the Doce Casas or
“twelve houses”. Stone portal of Casa R Iglesia San
The house is built del Turista Juan Bautista
in a style similar to C/San Juan Bautista
that of Casa de los Balcones, The single-nave church of St
but is older, dating from John the Baptist was built in
1509. It also offers the chance the 18th century. Its modest
to view and purchase local fa˜ade, with a monumental
handicrafts. Its prize exhibit is belfry, does nothing to hint at
a religious scene made from the magnificence of its
coloured volcanic sand. This interior. Thanks to the
type of decoration, for which beautiful artesonado – the
the town is famous, is made wooden coffered ceiling –
during Corpus Christi. The and the opulent interior
terraces at the back of the decorations featuring
house provide a fine view sculptures by Luján Peréz and
over the Orotava valley. Fernando Estévez, the church
is regarded as one of the
R Iglesia San Francisco most precious historic sites in
Wooden galleries around the C/San Francisco. La Orotava. The fine altars
patio of the Casa de los Balcones The church of San Francisco, deserve special attention.
with its Baroque portal and In front of the church is
P Casa de los Balcones rather plain interior, stands in a bust of the Venezuelan
C/San Francisco, 3–4. § 922 330 629. the palm-shaded Plaza de San President, Rómulo Betancourt
# 8:30am–6:30pm daily. Francisco and serves as the (1909–81).
∑ www.casa-balcones.com hospital chapel.
The “House of Balconies”, The church stands
also known as the Casa de next to the Hospital
Fonseca, is a major landmark de la Santísima
of La Orotava. Its light- Trinidad (Hospital of
coloured fa˜ade is adorned the Holy Trinity),
with a heavy, carved door, which has occupied
smart windows and long teak the 18th-century
balconies. The palm-shaded Convento de San
patio, brimming over with Lorenzo since 1884.
greenery, is surrounded by The interior is closed
the first- and second-floor to visitors. Note the
galleries, which rest on revolving drum on
slender wooden columns. the door where
The house, built in foundling babies
1632–70, has its own small were placed to be
museum of Canary art and cared for by the nuns.
handicrafts. Here, visitors can
view and buy local products, P Gofio Mills
including embroidery, lace, C/Doctor Domingo
pottery, regional costumes González García.
and other souvenirs (don’t In the south, Calle
miss the miniature balconies San Francisco
of La Orotava!). becomes Calle Doctor The simple fa˜ade of Iglesia San Juan Bautista
 T E N E R I F E 111

E Museo de Cerámica P Liceo de Taoro

– Casa de Tafuriaste C/San Augustín. &
C/León, 3. § 922 321 447. Above the Plaza de la
# 10am–6pm daily. & Constitución stands the
The island’s passion for charming, eclectic
ceramics reached its peak building of the former
even before the advent of the grammar school, with
European conquerors, and a well-maintained 100-
remains alive to this day, year-old garden. These
particularly among the local days, it houses a club
population of La Orotava. with elegant reception
The primitive designs, which rooms, a bar (which
are based on old Guanche is open to non-
forms, are popular with members), games
many tourists, as are items room and a library.
representing a more modern
style of pottery. Y Jardín Victoria
Orotava’s Museo de Plaza de la Constitución.
Cerámica was founded # 8am–9pm daily. &
to cater for this interest. Bordering the Liceo de
The museum is housed in Taoro is the 19th-
the Casa de Tafuriaste – century Jardín Jardín Victoria, situated in a ravine
a much-restored Victoria – full of
Canary townhouse from beautiful flowers and former convent are arranged
the 17th century, which palm trees, arranged on around a patio with lovely
is about 2 km (1 mile) terraces along a shallow balconies resting on wooden
west from La ravine with a stream columns. These rooms are
Orotava’s old town running at the bottom. occupied by the compact
on the La Luz-Las The main architectural Museo de Artesanía
Candias road. feature of this garden Iberoamericana, which
On the museum’s is the mausoleum of opened in 1991. This
first floor, there is a Diego Ponte del ethnographic museum has an
fine display of Modern pottery from Castillo, made of interesting exhibition of
antique ceramics. Casa de Tafuriaste Carrara marble. handicrafts from Spain and
The collection Latin America. The collection
includes nearly 1,000 vessels R Ex-convento includes traditional musical
from the Canary Islands and Santo Domingo instruments (look out for the
Spain. Down on the ground C/Tomás Zerolo, 34. Canary timple – a kind of
floor there is a pottery On the outskirts of La ukelele), pottery, textiles,
workshop, where visitors Orotava’s old town stands a wickerwork and some fine
can see demonstrations of 17th–18th-century Dominican locally produced furniture.
how modern jugs and bowls convent, which has a triple-
are made. naved church featuring a E Museo de Artesanía
The gift shop sells a wide magnificent polychromatic Iberoamericana
variety of these items to take wooden coffered ceiling. The § 922 323 376. # 9am–5pm
home as souvenirs. remaining rooms of the Mon-Fri, 9am–2pm Sat. &

E NVIRONS : The Mirador de

C ORPUS C HRISTI Humboldt is 5 km (3 miles)
Apart from Epiphany, northeast. This splendid
Corpus Christi is one of the viewpoint overlooks the
most celebrated religious entire Orotava valley and is
festivals in the Canary named after the geographer,
Islands. The most traveller and naturalist,
extravagant festivities on Alexander von Humboldt,
Tenerife are held in La who visited Tenerife in 1799.
Orotava and La Laguna, Some 30 km (19 miles)
which try to outdo each south, along a scenic road
other in the splendour of that crosses the Orotava
the occasion. The streets valley, stands the Izaña
of the town are lined with Astrophysical Observatory.
magnificent floral decorations, The observatory is near the
and the Plaza del General entrance to the Parque
Franco is adorned with Nacional del Teide, and
pictures and “carpets” made occupies a picturesque spot
of volcanic sands, which can Preparing a floral picture from 2,200 m (7,210 ft) above sea
take months to prepare. volcanic sand level, close to the top of the
Izaña mountain.
112 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Puerto de la Cruz 7 century, when the town

was the main exporter of the
ISING UP FROMthe sea front, Puerto de la Cruz was island’s agricultural produce.
R the principal port of the island after the destruction
of Garachico. By the late 19th century, it had already
Today you can buy freshly
caught fish direct from the
fishermen.
become a resort and a popular destination for
upmarket British visitors and remains so to this day. R Iglesia de San Francisco
The hotels tower above banana plantations, shopping C/San Juan.
arcades, casinos, restaurants, cafés and nightclubs, as The Church of St Francis is
well as numerous historic sites. An artificial lagoon and built around the Ermita de
warm, clear water attracts over 100,000 visitors each San Juan, which was
year to the area. constructed in 1599. One of
the oldest buildings in Puerto
P Plaza de Europa de la Cruz, it is decorated
Hugging the shoreline, this with sculptures and paintings,
square was laid out in 1992, from the 16th century up to
but is based on 18th- and modern times.
19th-century European-style Today, this modest building
town planning. Its features serves as an ecumenical
include the town hall (1973) church, and holds services for
and the Casa de Miranda all Christian denominations in
(1730), a fine old town the town.
house, which now
accommodates a restaurant P Plaza del Charco
specializing in local fare. de los Camerones
Many of the town’s most
P Casa de la Real Aduana historic buildings are found
Calle de las Lonjas. § 922 378 103. in Plaza del Charco, a square
Portal of the Iglesia de Nuestra # Mon–Sat. shaded by palm and laurel
Señora de la Peña de Francia This was built in 1620 for Juan trees, which were brought in
Antonio Lutzardo de 1852 from Cuba. The
R Iglesia de Nuestra Señora Francha and is the centre of the square
de la Peña de Francia oldest house in town. is occupied by a
The triple-naved cathedral After the destruction of huge yam plant within
was built in 1684–97. Its tall Garachico it became a fountain. The plaza
tower was added in the late the seat of the is a pleasant place to
19th century. governor and from sit and watch the world
In the dark interior of the 1706 to 1833 served as go by, particularly on
church the eye is drawn to the customs house. Sundays, when locals
Baroque sculptures – the work The building was Town crest at promenade in their
of the local artist Fernando restored in the 1970s Plaza de Europa Sunday finery.
Estévez, and José Luján Pérez, and now houses a
a well-known island artist. No cultural centre and a shop E Museo Arqueológico
less precious are the paintings selling local crafts. The tourist C/El Lomo, 9A. § 922 371 465.
by Luís de la Cruz. The information office is here too. # 10am–1pm & 5–9pm Tue–Sat,
cathedral’s organ was brought 10am–1pm Sun. &
from London in 1814. P Puerto Pesquero This small museum, opened
A bust of Augustín de The history of this in 1991, is devoted to the
Bétancourt (1758–1824), picturesque fishing harbour, history and cultural heritage
founder of the Engineering situated on a small, stony of the Canary Islands. Its
College in Madrid, stands in beach, goes back to the 18th exhibits include a collection
front of the church.

P Calle Quintana
The street leads to Punta del
Viento, a terrace poised on
the edge of the ocean and
affording a fine view over the
rocky coast and Lago
Martiánez. Branching off
eastwards is Calle de San
Telmo, a seaside promenade
with stone seats and
numerous bars. The Monopol
Hotel – one of the oldest
hotels in Puerto de la Cruz –
stands in Calle Quintana. View of the entrance to Puerto Pesquero fishing harbour
 T E N E R I F E 113

town. The park has cascades,

waterfalls, streams crossed
V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
with bridges, small ponds and * 40,000. @ n C/Las Lonjas,
viewing terraces. At the centre s/n, 922 386 000.
of the park lies the Jardín ( Tue, Thu, Sat. _ Gran
Risco Bello Acuático – a Poder de Díos (15 Jul).
tropical water garden that is
home to many varieties of fish,
as well as ducks and swans. Y Jardín Botánico
C/Retama, 2. § 922 383 572.
S Lago Martiánez # 9am–7pm daily. &
Playa Martiánez. § 922 385 955. The local botanical garden is
# 10am–6pm daily. ¢ May. & one of the oldest in the
This artificial lagoon, world. It was established in
designed by César Manrique, 1788 at the request of Carlos
Lush banana plantations south was built in 1969. Conjuring III of Spain, by Alonso de
of Parque Taoro up a subtropical paradise, it Nova Gimón.
consists of a complex of Today, the lush garden is
of Gaunche products and the seawater swimming pools crammed with over 1,000
mummified remains of the and gurgling fountains, which species of plants and trees
island’s original inhabitants. contrast with the surrounding from the Canary Islands,
lava field. There is also an as well as flora from all over
+ Castillo de San Felipe ultra-smart casino here. the world.
This small 17th-century fort
once guarded the harbour
entrance against attacks from
pirates and the ships of Spain’s
two maritime rivals: France
and England. Now the fort,
situated in the western part of
town, often serves as a venue
for temporary exhibitions.
To the west of the fort is the
Playa Jardín – the town’s
longest beach.

Y Parque Taoro
This majestic park is an
enchanting spot and a good
place to escape the bustle of Playa Jardín, a popular beach with tourists

n
4 h

1
N
6

h 7
n
n

N
114 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Loro Parque 8

ROM THE DAY it opened in 1972, this tropical

Fhasplant complex has been hugely popular and
been visited by over 11 million tourists.
The huge area contains many animals and
birds, magnificent orchids and dragon trees.
It offers numerouss tourist attractions, including
shows of performiing seals, parrots, dolphins
and the largest faccility for orcas in the world.
The entrance to thhe park leads through an
authenic Thai villaage. Built in 1993, it consists . Dolphinarium
of six buildings w
and shipped in se
they were reassem

Jaguars
Two jaguars live in
reconstructed volca
landscape. You can
see them through a
series of large wind
-m
Alligato

Parrot h
m

0-

m
-

- Café
Parrot Show
Trained-parrot shows, including roller- 0 Restaurant
skating antics, are held in the building
m Toilets
at the centre of the park.
 T E N E R I F E 115

. Penguin House
With frost-covered V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
rocks and a water Puerto de la Cruz, C/San Felipe.
temperature of §. 922 373 841.
8° C (46° F), the # 8:30am–5pm daily. & 7
Penguin House ∑ www.loroparque.com
Free transport by tram from
recreates a
Playa Martiánez (every 20 min).
natural habitat,,
enabling the
inhabitants
to forget that
they are living

0-

of Fish
l of fish swim insside
minated glass
, more than 8 m
0-
all, which standss
he Penguin Hou use.

m-

le number of
ive out their dayys in
freedom in the ppark,
ea of 3,500 sq m
q yards).

S TAR A TTRACTIONS
. Dolphinarium
walkway allows . Penguin House
visitors to watch
sharks swimming . Shark Aquarium
directly overhead.
116 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Masca w
* 150. @

,
ASCA WITH its scenic
M position at an altitude of
600 m (2,000 ft), is a popular
destination for day trips from
many of the big resorts. Just
above the small village is a
terrace, which offers an
impressive outlook, especially
at sunset, towards Mount
Teide on one side, and the
Atlantic on the other.
Masca was once a refuge
for pirates and accessible only The green square of Plaza de la Iglesia in Los Silos
by mule. Even today, it can
only be reached via a steep, back again in under four Santiago
winding road. Though hours. Take care, however, as
narrow, the road is a feat the return hike is steep and del Teide e
of modern engineering and fairly arduous.
uses small lay-bys along the * 500. @ n Paseo Maritimo,
roadside to allow vehicles E NVIRONS : Past the village, Playa de la Arena, 922 860 348.
to pass each other. The the road leads north through
incredible views as the road the Macizo de Teno massif, HOULD YOU VISIT Santiago
winds through the mountains
are reason enough to visit.
towards the coastal flatland.
Some 10 km (6 miles) along
Swhendel theTeidecountless
in February,
almond
The village is charming and the route is the scenic village trees are in bloom with pink
consists of a handful of old, of El Palmar. The nearby and white blossom, you will
red-tiled, stone houses Montaña de Talavera has see it is particularly lovely.
clinging to the sides of the had chunks cut out of it to The small town is surrounded
gorge, and surrounded by provide soil for the banana by vineyards and cornfields,
lush palm trees. Roadside plantations. and nestles among the
vendors offer prickly pears Another 4 km (2 miles) foothills of the Teno massif.
and oranges to passers-by. further on is Buenavista, the La Gomera can be seen in
Crops are grown in small island’s westernmost village, the distance.
fields on terraces, which which has a small fishing The pride of the town is
descend towards the Barranco harbour and a pebble beach. the Baroque parish church of
de Masca ravine. The villagers A short way eastwards in San Fernando, which was
also keep bees that gather the midst of banana built in the mid-16th century
nectar from the surrounding plantations, Los Silos is a and stands at the end of the
flowering meadows. The quiet little town with a main street. Its asymmetric
village is an excellent starting compact 19th-century layout. fa˜ade is adorned with a
point for hikers. In the town centre is a typical wooden, grill-shaded balcony.
One of the best tree-shaded square, with a A tall belfry has been added
routes leads along coffee pavilion. The shady at the northern end of the
the Masca square is idyllic and has church. The small, Moorish-
ravine, to the traditional Canary houses with looking domes give the
seashore. A fit wooden balconies. building its distinctive look.
mountain Look out for the strange
walker should figure in front of one of the
be able to get side altars: it represents Christ
there and on horseback, wearing a
black Spanish hat and
carrying a sword.

E NVIRONS : Branching off from

the southern approach road
to the village is a path to
Camino de la Virgen de
Lourdes. The path, dedicated
to the Virgin Mary of Lourdes
and with a shrine and an
ornamental bridge, leads
along the slope of the
mountain to a grotto
The fa˜ade of San Fernando with its wooden balcony, Santiago del Teide decorated with flowers.
 T E N E R I F E 117

Los Gigantes
and Puerto
de Santiago r
@g

, known as
HE GIANT CLIFFS
T the Acantilados de los
Gigantes (“Cliffs of the
Giants”), form the ridge of the
Teno massif. Some 10 km (6
miles) long, this steep cliff-
face plunges 500 m (1,600 ft)
into the ocean. The dark
rocks are best seen by boat.
Trips often leave from Puerto
Deportivo and usually travel
further north to include a
wonderful view over the
Barranco de Masca.
Situated beneath the cliffs,
the small town of Los
Gigantes is a typical Canary
holiday resort, the biggest on
the northwest coast of
Tenerife, with apartment
complexes sprawling over the
slopes. Its yachting marina
has diving clubs and offers
angling trips. Boulevards along the beach in Playa de las Américas
The town itself, with its
concentrated development, Playa de las the noise and kitsch good
gives the impression of being humour of the place and Los
overcrowded. Only narrow Américas and Los Cristianos is one of the most
alleys separate small hotels Cristianos t popular resorts in the
and apartment blocks. archipelago. It extends into
A seaside boulevard * 20,000. @ g n C⁄General the virtually identical Playa de
connects Los Gigantes with Franco, 922 757 137. _ Fiesta del las Américas, which merges in
nearby Puerto de Santiago, Carmen (beg. of Sep). its turn with Costa Adeje a
which has long been a resort, little further up the coastline.
although on a smaller scale. OU WOULD NOT think so to A promenade, running
The main attraction here is
the dark volcanic-sand
Y look at it now but Los
Cristianos was once a sleepy
alongside the crowded
beaches and the harbour wall,
beaches, including the most fishing village. Today, it is a has shops, restaurants and
popular of them, Playa de la year-round provider of fun bars. In Las Américas the
Arena, situated to the south. and sun with artificial promenade turns into a palm-
Most of the fishermen here beaches, sprawling hotel- shaded boulevard several
have traded in their rods and apartments, and countless miles long, which runs above
nets and take tourists out for bars, discos and souvenir numerous sheltered beaches.
boat trips instead. shops. Many people embrace The most exclusive among
them are Torviscas and
Bahía del Duque. Ferries and
hydrofoils make regular trips
from Los Cristianos’ port to La
Gomera and El Hierro.

E NVIRONS : A short way

northeast, Parque Ecológico
Las Águilas has displays of
condors in flight, evening
variety shows and a floodlit
pool full of crocodiles. Some
7 km (4 miles) north, and a
two-hour walk from the town
of Adeje, is the Barranco del
Infierno, a wild gorge with
Harbour in Puerto de Santiago, against the steep cliffs of Los Gigantes an impressive waterfall.
118 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Parque Nacional del Teide y

OME 3 MILLIONyears ago volcanic subsidence

SCañadas
left behind the 16-km (10-mile) Las
depression with the island’s
emblematic volcano, Teide, at its centre.
In 1954 the area was turned into one of thee
largest national parks in Spain. Marked pathhs
guide visitors round the best of this awesom
me
wilderness of ash beds, lava streams and
mineral tinted rocks. The refurbished paraddor, i i j
next to the road leading along the plateau,
the only hotel in the park. The same road
leads to the lower cable-car station and the
El Portillo visitor centre.

Los Roques de G
Close to the parador
photographed set of
shaped rocks, rising
(500 ft) above the c

Boca de Tauce
This lookout
provides a
stunning view
of the gulleys
and slopes of the
national park.

Llano de Ucanca
This treeless plain contains the rocks of Los
Azulejos. Their blue-green glitter is due
to the copper deposits within them.

P ICO DEL T EIDE

The most recent eruption of
Mount Teide occurred in 1798. Minor road
At 3,718 m (12,195 ft), it is the
highest mountain in Spain. Other road
Today, you can only visit its peak Footpath
if you have a permit (ask at the
Oficina del Parque Nacional for Park boundary
details). The viewing platform Seasonal river
in La Fortaleza, reached by a
footpath leading from the top h Parking
cable-car station, affords (on a n Tourist information
clear day) an incredible view of
the entire archipelago, stretching Early map showing Teide as J Viewpoint
hundreds of miles. the world’s highest mountain
0 Restaurant
 T E N E R I F E 119

V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
@ 342 from El Portillo.
n Oficina del Parque Nacional,
C/Emilio Calzadilla, 5–4a, Santa
Cruz de Tenerife, 922 290 129.
# 9am–2pm Mon–Fri.
7 cable-car only.

Refugio de Alttavista
ña Astrophysical Observatory This modest shelter is located
he entrance to the park, the obser along the trail leading to Pico
h h k h del Teide, at ann altitude of
3,270 m (10,7266 ft).

hn
A

h
Cable-car
Built in 19771, the cable-car
takes only eeight minutes to
whisk tourists tto within 200 m
(656 ft) of Teide’s summit.

0
n

ste)
d of
p g g red
stalks. It can grow up to 2m
(6 ft) high and is one of the
symbols of Tenerife.

Roque Cinchado
One of the Roques de
García, the Cinchado
is this strange shape
because it is wearing
away faster at the
bottom than the top.
120 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Vilaflor u village, which is surrounded place very popular with

by pine forests, is “Pino windsurfers (international
* 1,800. @ Gordo”, a pine tree over 40 m competitions are held here).
(130 ft) tall. In the plaza at The winds are also utilized in
With an elevation of 1,400 m the top of the village is the the Parque Eólico de Granadilla
(4,600 ft), Vilaflor is the Iglesia de San Pedro (1550), – a wind farm, supplying
highest village in the which has a statue of the electricity to over 3,000 homes.
Canaries. In the 19th century church’s patron saint.
the village became famous for Environs
its lacework. Close to the Environs Some 5 km (3 miles) to the
Hikers can set out from Vilaflor northwest, at the end of the
for the so-called Paisaje Lunar runways of Reina Sofia
(“Lunar Landscape”), a curious Airport, is the Cueva del
rock formation made of Hermano Pedro – a cave
weathered cones of sandstone. converted into a sanctuary,
dedicated to Father Peter, the
first Canary saint (1626–67).
El Médano i
* 1,500. n Plaza del Médano, Candelaria o
922 176 002. @ _ San Antonio
de Padua (14 Jun). * 14,500. @ g n Plaza del
Cid, 922 500 415. ( Sat, Sun.
El Médano, a former fishing _ Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria
village, is now famous for its (2 Feb, 14–15 Aug).
bay, fringed by long, sandy
beaches. These stretch south Candelaria is famous for its
to the Punta Roja, towered religious sanctuary, the most
over by the Montaña Roja important in the archipelago.
volcano (now a nature Twice each year (see above),
The giant “Pino Gordo” just reserve). The strong winds crowds of pilgrims come to
outside Vilaflor (known as alisios)s make the the Basílica de Nuestra

Playa San Blas 4 is situated near Los

Tenerife’s Beaches Abrigos. From here a modern road leads
to Golf del Sur, the biggest golf course
With the possible exception of Las Teresitas, on Tenerife and one of the finest on the
near Santa Cruz, the beaches of Tenerife are Canary Islands.
not nearly as scenic as those of Fuerteventura,
though they are nevertheless popular
tourists. Numerous diving pacckages ar
offer to visitors, from courses aimed at
beginners to expeditions into the dept
the ocean. Reliable winds mak ke the pl
popular with windsurfers and d conditio 1
also good for many other wattersports,
paragliding to waterskiing.

Playa de las Américas 1

The local volcanic beaches of black and grey sa
have been covered with light sand im
mported fro
Sahara, to make them more attractivee to visitors
 T E N E R I F E 121

a
ainting of the
p Madonna by
M
t Coello (1986).
C basilica adjoins
b
th-century
h of Santa Ana.
G hurches stand
h
m he northwest
h
b ge of Plaza de la
b a de Canaria, a
f quare that
q
T ees nine bronze
the coastal caves as an object
j statues depicting the Imposing fa˜ade of the basilica, Candelaria
of veneration and there it legendary Guanche
remained until 1826, when it rulers, known as the Menceyes. The town is famous for the
was swept away during a pyramids made from uncut
violent storm. stone that were unearthed in
The basilica itself Güimar p the suburb of Chacona in the
was built in 1958 on 1990s. The anthropologist
the site of an earlier * 15,500. @ _ San Pedro Thor Heyerdahl and the ship
16th-century church. (29 Jun). wner Fred Olsen persuaded
The present statue of authorities to seal off the
the Madonna is the The largest town in and founded the Parque
work of Fernando Estévez southeast Tenerife, gráfico museum.
(1827). It has been placed Güimar has an
inside a niche above the eclectic mix of 19th-
main altar. The wall around century houses. On a E Parque Etnográfico
the niche has paintings by small square in the Pirámides de Güimar
C/Chacona, s/n. Tel 922 514 510.
Jose Aguiar and Manuel town centre stands # :30am– 6pm daily.¢ 1 Jan &
Martín Gonzáles. The the 18th-century 25 Dee & www.
Dec.
church’s main Statue of a Guanche church of San piramidesdeguimar.net
entrance features a chieftain, Candelaria Pedro Apóstol.

Playa del Confital 6 Playa de la Tejita 7is at the foot of the

This small village, Montaña Roja volcano and just ten
situated midway minutes walk from El Médano. One of
the island’s most beautiful beaches, it is
between Los Abrigos also popular with naturists (see p187).
and El Médano is

6 7
5
4

3
 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 123

LA GOMERA

L
A GOMERA, the Isla Redonda or Round Island, is the “alternative”
Canary Island. A mere 378 sq km (146 sq miles), it has little
tourism infrastructure and only small pebble-and-sand beaches.
Many visitors treat it as a day trip. Some, however, come for this very
absence of commercialism, drawn by the mountainous countryside
and an ancient laurel forest that is perfect for hiking.

Despite the poor soil and In the 1960s, La Gomera

the hilly conditions, the was discovered by people
inhabitants of La Gomera, seeking an alternative
who lived on the island lifestyle. The island
during the Guanche era became a symbol of
as well as those who unspoiled nature. This
arrived after the Spanish was the beginning of the
conquest, made a living Cacti decorating an
development of tourism.
as farmers. Fields were set island windowsill Today, the island authorities
on terraces cut into the try to maintain a balance
slopes of ravines. Crops included between the traditional economy and
potatoes, tomatoes, bananas and the proceeds of tourism, and strive to
grapes. To this day many of the local protect the historic landscape from
people are engaged in farming and the trappings of civilization that
the island has maintained its threaten it.
agricultural character. One of the outstanding features of
The isolation of the island, its La Gomera that attracts many visitors
inaccessibility and the difficulties in each year is the Garajonay national
cultivating the fertile land all park. This is one of the world’s
contributed to its poverty and often oldest natural forests and provides an
caused many of the Gomerans to excellent area for walking. Equally
leave for South America (though interesting are the local customs.
quite a few are returning now). Signs Some of them, including a unique
of emigration are still visible in the whistle language, have survived
form of numerous deserted villages. since the times of the Guanches.

Harbour entrance in San Sebastián de La Gomera

Green terraces of cultivated fields, on the slopes of the Valle Gran Rey
124 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring La Gomera
OST VISITORS COME to La Gomera on day
M trips, arriving from nearby Tenerife. This
small island, though somewhat short of
A T L A N T I C
SANTA CRUZ
OCE A N

DE TENERIFE
FE
historical site
or Tenerife, i LA
AS PALMAS
A
its landscape DE GRAN CANARIA
mist-shroude
descending in
lack of long,
areas and see
island is an e
no industry, m
hotels, La Go
and suits thos
bustle of the

S IGHTS AT A
Agulo 3
Alajeró 8
El Cercado 6 7
Hermigua 2
Parque Naciona
Garajonay pp
Playa de Santiag 6
San Sebastián de
Valle Gran Rey
Vallehermoso 4

5
g

The parador cou

de La Gomera
 L A G O M E R A 125

G ETTING T HERE
The distance between La Gomera and
Tenerife is 32 km (20 miles). The journey
by ferry from Los Cristianos takes 1 hr 40
min, by hydrofoil it is 45 min. There are
also ferry links with La Palma and El

ián
nd

1
g

k 9

ó
126 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Another sight to look out for

is the small Ermita de San
Sebastián. Built around 1450,
this is the oldest church on
the island, and is dedicated to
La Gomera’s patron saint.
Heading towards Mirador
de la Hila, which offers
views over the whole of
San Sebastián, the road
leads to the Parador de San
Sebastián. This comfortable
hotel was built in 1976 and
is a modern replica of a
Canary colonial mansion.

E NVIRONS : Some 4 km (2
Fa˜ade of Iglesia de la Virgen de la Asunción in San Sebastián miles) north, the gravel road
divides: one route descends
San Sebastián voyage. Casa de Colón, at towards the quiet beach at
56 Calle Real, is where Playa de Abalo; the other
de La Gomera 1 Columbus is said to have leads to Ermita de Nuestra
stayed before setting off for Señora de Guadalupe –
* 7,000. @ g n C⁄Real, 1, the New World, while the every five years a statue of
922 141 512. _ Fiesta de San Seba- Pozo de Colón, a well the Virgin Mary is carried to
stián (20 Jan), Bajada de la Virgen de standing in the courtyard of a San Sebastián from here (the
Guadalupe (5 Oct, every 5 years). former customs building, has next “Bajada” is in 2003).
ITH THE DAILY arrival of the inscription “With this
W tourists on the Tenerife
ferry, the island’s sleepy
water America was baptized”.
Hermigua 2
capital and main harbour
comes alive. The road from * 500. @ n near Iglesia de la
the harbour into town passes Encarnación, 922 144 025.
through the laurel-shaded
Plaza de las Américas, which WINDING ROAD leads from
is lined with street cafés.
To the west of the square
A San Sebastián to
Hermigua. Along the route,
stands the Torre del Conde. the scenery is attractive and
This Gothic tower was built in varied with weathered rocks,
1447 by the first Spanish forests of willow and laurel,
governor of La Gomera, juniper groves, deep ravines
Hernán Peraza the Elder. and lush green valleys.
Restored in 1997, it is the Hermigua, known as
only remaining fragment of Mulagua during the times of
the town’s fortifications. Torre Guanches, was once an
del Conde is a reminder of a important town but is today
tragic uprising in the town. In The Gothic defensive tower little more than a village. The
1448, Beatriz de Bobadilla, of Torre del Conde fertile soil in the lower
wife of Hernán Peraza the
Younger, barricaded herself
within its walls after her C HRISTOPHER C OLUMBUS
husband was killed by a (1451–1506)
Guanche in revenge for his The name “Isla Colombina” evokes
illicit affair with a native La Gomera’s links with Christopher
princess. When help arrived Columbus. Columbus stopped here three
from Gran Canaria, Beatriz times, in 1492, 1493 and 1498. The island
avenged herself by putting provided his fleet with food and fresh
almost every male Guanche water and was a good launch pad for
on Gomera to death. his historic expeditions. The many
The island’s main church is stories surrounding his visits include
the Iglesia de la Virgen de an alleged romance with Beatriz de Bobadilla.
la Asunción in Calle Real. Columbus will always remain an unofficial
The foundations were laid in patron of the island and the Fiesta
the mid-15th century and Colombina, held on 6 September each
Christopher Columbus is said year, commemorates his first voyage.
to have knelt down to pray in
the church’s dim interior Statue of Columbus in Playa de las Américas
before continuing on his first
 L A G O M E R A 127

regions of Barranco de
Monteforte still allows
cultivation of grapes, bananas
and dates.
Today the only evidence of
past glories is a handful of
old buildings along the small
scenic streets and the
Convento de Santo
Domingo de Guzmán in the
Valle Alto district. Dating from
the 16th century, the church’s
interior features a fine 19th-
century image of the Madonna Banana plantation on the coast near Agulo
by Fernando Estévez.
Hermigua is famous for its One unique feature of Agulo’s Pintor. One of the town’s
handmade rugs and other architecture is the church of other attractions is a small
woven products. These can San Marcos (1939). Moorish park enlivened by bizarre
be seen and purchased in Los in design, its four white groups of roughly hewn
Telares, the local handicraft domes are visible from far sculptural figures.
centre. Nearby is Playa de away. The town’s best-known
Hermigua – covered with native son is the painter José E NVIRONS : A short way to
shingle, it is not the most Aguiar (1895–1976) who was the north is Playa de
beautiful of beaches and is born in Cuba of Gomeran Vallehermoso, which is good
subject to rough weather. parents, and spent his for windsurfing. Those who
childhood in Agulo. prefer to swim in calmer
E NVIRONS : An hour’s hike waters can make use of the
along the footpath, E NVIRONS : A steep, twisting swimming pool built next to
to the northeast, road leads upwards from the pebble beach.
brings you to Agulo to Mirador de Abrante. Some 4 km (2 miles) to the
Playa de la This stone terrace offers a north is Los Órganos – an
Caleta, one of the splendid view over the rocky impressive section of steep
best black sand coast and the ocean and is a cliff that can be seen only
beaches on fine spot to appreciate Mount from the sea, on cruising trips
the island. Teide on Tenerife. A little from Valle Gran Rey, Playa de
further along the road, at the Santiago or San Sebastián.
end of a ravine, is the village This basalt wall, 80 m (262 ft)
of La Palmita, renowned for high and 200 m (656 ft) wide,
its traditional lifestyle. resembles the pipes of an
organ and is one of the most
unusual (and least accessible)
Vallehermoso 4 attractions on La Gomera.
Just 2 km (1 mile) to the
* 900. @ n Avda. de Guillermo east, along the road to Agulo,
Ascanio, 18, 922 800 000. is the Roque Cano. This
650-m (2,132-ft) high fang-
ALLEHERMOSO TRANSLATES as shaped rock was created by
The pretty Iglesia de la
Encarnación in Hermigua
V “beautiful valley” and the
surrounding agricultural
erosion of a volcanic peak.
Las Rosas, situated just
landscape is evidence of the 11 km (7 miles) from
island’s fertile soil. Some 17 Vallehermoso, is a popular
Agulo 3 km (11 miles) along a stopping place for coach
winding road from Agulo, this tours. It has a restaurant
* 800. @ compact town, with its where tourists are treated
bustling centre (including to demonstrations of El
HE 17 -
TH CENTURY TOWN of shops, a post office, a bank Silbo – the island’s
T Agulo lies in the north-
eastern part of the island,
and a petrol station) is a
good starting point for
famous whistle language
(see p128).
high above the sea at the foot sightseeing and
of a natural rock amphitheatre walking tours around
and surrounded by banana this green and
plantations. Together with the pleasant region.
nearby hamlet of Lepe, At the centre of the
inhabited by hardly more town is the Iglesia
than handful of crofters, this San Juan Bautista,
is a picturesque little place which was designed
and a popular destination for by the Tenerife
sightseers around La Gomera. architect, Antonio Mother and Father in Vallehermoso’s park
128 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

cutting into the valley slopes

in the form of terraces, are
similar to Balinese rice fields.
For hikers there are several
walking trails, representing
various degrees of difficulty.
Above the town, at the
entrance to the valley, is a
viewpoint made according to
a design by César Manrique,
and featuring one of the
island’s best restaurants.

E NVIRONS : Perched above the

Black sand beach at Valle Gran Rey valley, 11 km (7 miles) to the
north, is the village of Arure,
Valle Gran Rey 5 Los Órganos. It is also used which prior to the island’s
by fishing boats and conquest used to be its main
* 5,000. @ g n La Playa, Calle numerous yachts. Several centre. Today the place has
de la Noria, 922 805 458. restaurants tempt visitors with a desolate look about it and
tasty dishes of freshly caught is known mainly for its
HE CENTRE OF tourism on fish. The most scenic road on excellent miel de palma –
T the island, Valle Gran Rey
(“valley of the great king”)
the island is surrounded by
massive basalt rocks and runs
“palm honey”. The palms
from which the honey is
was known even before the through the valley, renowned made have flanges fitted
Spanish conquest of Gomera, for its fertility. Local crops around their trunks to protect
when it was named Orone include dates, bananas, them against hungry ants.
after a Guanche leader. papayas, avocados, mangoes The nearby Mirador del
Today’s Valle Gran Rey is and tomatoes. Small fields, Santo offers a splendid view
really a complex of several over the ravines and on to La
seaside villages – La Calera, Palma and El Hierro.
La Playa, La Puntilla and
Vueltas – which are the
measure of the tourism boom El Cercado 6
that has even reached La
Gomera. The developing @ Chipude.
estates try hard to meet the
demands of modern HIS SMALL VILLAGEis best-
European guests, particularly
Germans, who look for
T known for its handicrafts,
especially the primitively
comfort but are also keen to shaped earthenware products
sample a different lifestyle. that are made of dark
The place attracts many Gomera clay, without the
visitors who come not only use of a potter’s wheel.
for the idyllic scenery, but Local traditions are also
also for the excellent new being upheld by a small
pensions and restaurants. The New houses at the mouth of the number of bars offering
magnificent Atlantic waves Valle Gran Rey traditional cuisine.
will satisfy even the most
demanding surfing fanatics.
La Calera, with its E L S ILBO G OMERA
picturesque setting in the Long before the invention of the
midst of banana plantations, telephone, Gomera’s inhabitants needed
has been nicknamed the a way of communicating across the
Montmartre of La Gomera, island’s inhospitable terrain. A
thanks to its small boutiques unique whistle language, known
and cosy restaurants. It is as El Silbo, was the solution.
regarded as one of the Modulating the whistle by
archipelago’s prettiest towns changing finger positions
and the house prices here are produced many different sounds
some of the highest on the to produce a limited vocabulary,
island. Like La Playa, it also which could be transmitted up to 4
has a small beach. km (2 miles). Nowadays the whistle
The harbour at Vueltas is just used to impress tourists but
offers hydrofoil links to Los the local Guanches once relied on
Cristianos on Tenerife, as well it when threatened or during Cupping the hands to
as short cruises along the hunting expeditions. carry the sound further
coast of La Gomera and to
 L A G O M E R A 129

inhabitants make a As recently as 50 years ago

living by growing Playa de Santiago was
bananas. The 16th- probably the busiest centre
century Iglesia del on the island with a thriving
Salvador is one of the food industry, a small
few remains of the shipyard and a harbour with
village’s historic past. facilities for the export of the
From Alajeró a path local cash crops, including
leads westward, along bananas and tomatoes. Then,
a very deep ravine, to in the 1970s, an economic
La Manteca. Though crisis hit and the town went
many of the people into a steep decline.
who were born in the Affordable holidays
area have left in provided the town’s route
search of a better life, back to prosperity and these
this ghost village, set days Playa de Santiago is
in a very picturesque orientated mainly towards
spot, is one of the tourism. It is the second
few villages to be largest resort on the island,
totally abandoned. besides Valle Gran Rey, and
Terraced fields of El Cercado is slowly but surely returning
E NVIRONS : In Agalán, 2 km to its past glory.
E NVIRONS : Some 3 km (2 (1 mile) north of Alajeró Visitors are attracted mainly
miles) to the south, at the foot down a cobbled road, is the by the weather, since the
of La Fortaleza – a large island’s only surviving dragon place is believed to be the
basalt rock that is almost as tree. The Drago de Agalán is sunniest spot on La Gomera.
flat as a table top – lies about 150 years old. Further temptations include
Chipude. At 1,050 m (3,444 the local beaches and the
ft) above sea level, this is the modern hotel and beach
highest village on La Gomera. Playa de Santiago 9 club facilities.
It is known for its 16th- If proof were needed of
century church, the Iglesia de * 1,600. @ n Casa de Cultura, Playa de Santiago’s tourist-
la Virgen de la Candelaria. Avenida Marítima, 922 895 650. friendly credentials then look
Like El Cercado, Chipude is no further than the Jardín
renowned as a pottery village. LAYA DE SANTIAGO plays a Tecina. The complex has
A steep country road that
later becomes a walking
P vital role in La Gomera’s
transport system. It lies at
numerous bars, restaurants,
tennis courts and a new golf
trail leads from El the junction of two course. Perched on top of
Cercado to La Laguna ravines – Barranco de cliffs, the complex consists of
Grande – an los Cocos and unobtrusive white bungalows,
information point at Barranco de built in the local style. A lift,
the entrance to the Santiago – and has running in a shaft carved into
Parque Nacional a fishing harbour the rock face, whisks guests
de Garajonay. Traditional pottery and a newly to the beach and the Club
Some 15 km made in El Cercado constructed airport, Laurel beach club, which has
(9 miles) to the situated on a bare a huge salt-water pool and a
south is La Dama. stretch of land to the west. In good restaurant. To the east
Surrounded by banana addition, the town lies along of the hotel are other
plantations, this small the road that runs in a loop beaches, including
village is poised high around the southern part of Tapahuga, Chinguarime
above the ocean. the island. and Playa del Medio.

Parque Nacional
de Garajonay 7
See pp130–31.

Alajeró 8
* 600. @ _ Fiesta del Paso (Sep).

TYPICAL GOMERAvillage,
A Alajeró sprawls along a
mountain road in the
southern part of the island.
Most of the village’s Shingle beach in Playa de Santiago
130 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Parque Nacional de Garajonay 7

OVERING AN AREAof 40 sq km (15 sq miles), Gomera’s

C national park is the largest intact area of ancient
woodland in the archipelago. The unique weather
conditions, caused by the constant flow of mist produced
when the cool Atlantic trade winds encounter warm
breezes, ensure constant
tant dew and humidity conducive to
the growth of some 450 species of plants and trees. The
vegetation often reach hes unpre
an illustration of whatt a Medite
before the last Ice Age. So pre
it is the only national park in S
be declared a World Heritage
by UNESCO.

La Laguna Grande
Often shrouded in mist, La Lagun
Grande is a good stoppiing-off
point for walks around d the park.
It also features an excelllent
restaurant, a children’ss
playground and a picn nic area.

V EGETATION
The term laurisilva, meaning
“laurel grove”, is used to
describe the ancient laurel
forest at the heart of the park.
The evergreen laurel trees
grow to 20 m (65 ft). These
trees provide large areas of
the park with a thick ceiling
of green, which keeps in
much of the mist and j
provides enough shade to
Other road
keep walkers cool on the
many hiking trails that wind Footpath
through the forest. As well as
Park boundary
laurel trees, the park has
dense tree heather and Lichen hanging from the Seasonal river
juniper groves. branches of tree heather
J Viewpoint
P A R Q U E N A C I O N A L D E G A R A J O N A Y 131

V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
n Visitor Centre, Las Rosas.
§ 922 800 993.
# 9:30am–4:30pm daily. 7

Mirador de Valleehermoso
is fine view
wpoint, just
he park bou undary and
nded by den nse heather,
n get a maggnificent
w of the park and the
de of the issland.

Ravines
The parrk is criss-crossed
by manyy densely wooded
ravinees, which provide
shellter for numerous
speccies of rare birds,
includ
ding the long-toed
Canary pigeon.

Visitors’ Centre
V
or centre, n
near Las Rosas, has
ops, an exhiibition on Gomera
a well-labellled garden, and a
pleasant CCanary restaurant.

s Roques
e volcanic formations,
including Za arcita (1,236
m/4,054 ft), CCarmen (1,140
m/3,739 ft) and Agando
(1,250 m/4,100 ft), are
situated just outside the
park’s boundaries, and
are best seen from Mirador
El Bailadero.
 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 133

EL HIERRO

E
L HIERRO IS the smallest and westernmost island of the
archipelago. Known locally as “La Isla Chiquita” – the Small
Island – it occupies a mere 278 sq km (107 sq miles). Rural
and, for the most part, untouched by tourism thanks to its lack of
sandy beaches, the entire island has only 6,000 or so inhabitants, a
quarter of whom live in the island’s capital – Valverde.

The shape of El Hierro is Today, the population lives

the result of a strong mainly off agriculture,
earthquake that struck the growing grapes and
island some 50,000 years bananas, as well as
ago. At that time one almonds, peaches, potatoes
third of the island broke and tomatoes. As
away from its northern side elsewhere, fishing is
and sank beneath the ocean another key element of the
w aves, creating the El Aeonium, growing local economy, particularlyy
Golfo bay. The most recent on the rocks on the southern coast.
v olcanic eruption on this Tourism plays little part in
mountainous island, numbering 500 the economy of the island. The
volcanic peaks, occurred more than accommodation on offer extends to
200 years ago. some 800 beds (taken mainly byy
Prior to the Spanish invasion of Canary islanders in July and August).
1403, the island’s population The pine forest camping site of Hoya
consisted of Bimbache tribes. del Morcillo is also very popular.
Following the island’s conquest most There is no industry on El Hierro,
of these tribes fell victim to slave but handicrafts thrive, particularlyy
traders and their land was pottery, weaving and woodcarving.
appropriated by Norman and Many tourists shop for local products,
Castilian settlers. A feudal system, particularly at village markets where
introduced at that time, survived buyers and sellers are entertained byy
until the mid-19th century. folk musicians and dancers.

Natural pools in Charco Manso lava near Valverde

Red and yellow carpets of flowering plants covering the rocks

134 C

Explorin
’
L HIERRO S CH
E wildness. Be
was the wester
A T L A N T I C
SANTA CRUZ
OCE A N

DE TENERIFE
FE
world. Even tod
untouched by t LA
AS PALMAS
A
the world” feel DE GRAN CANARIA
scenery compe
beaches. Wild t
often overgrow
attracts nature l
places can only
attractive is the
south, a paradi
revolves around
is known for its

Giant junipers, twis

shapes by the wind

S IGHTS AT A
El Sabinar 5
Frontera 2
Isora 8
La Restinga 7
Las Puntas 3
Puerto de la Estaca
Sabinosa 4
San Andrés 9
Santuario de Nuest
de los Reyes 6 Tiny Puerto de la Estaca, on the east coast the island s
Valverde 1 only ferry harbour
 T

3
0g

AY
Y 2
8

J Viewpoint
Iglesia de la Concepción in Valverde
136 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

above the church, on a hill of

red volcanic ash, is a belfry
that is visible from afar.

E NVIRONS : Tigaday, 1 km
(half a mile) to the west, is a
relatively large village and a
great wine-producing centre.
It is the starting point for the
road to Las Puntas.

Las Puntas 3
n 922 559 081 _ Fiesta de San
Juan (24 Jun).

TANDING ON THE old wharf,

Sarrived
where until 1930 ships
bringing supplies, is
the Hotel Puntagrande, which
had an entry in the Guinness
Pools in Pozo de las Calcosas near Valverde Book of Records as the world’s
smallest hotel. It began life in
Valverde 1 with hairpin bends. The sea 1884 as a harbour building
here can be dangerous and until it was transformed into a
* 2,000. @ n C/Dr. Quineiro, 11, swimming is not advisable. hotel. It has four rooms, a bar
922 550 302. _ Fiesta de San Isidro Pozo de las Calcosas, 8 and a restaurant. Although it
(15 May), Bajada de la Virgen de los km (5 miles) to the northwest, is difficult to get a room here
Reyes (every 4 years in Jul). is a good place to swim and it is still worth coming in
features pools similar to those order to admire the beautiful
HE FULL NAME of the of Charco Manso, and a sunset and enjoy a swim in
T island’s capital is La Villa
de Santa María de Valverde.
number of black stone huts
on the ocean shore, all
one of the rocky coves.
Another noteworthy local
Unlike the other island reached by steep steps. feature is the Roques de
capitals, Valverde has no An unforgettable view over Salmor. These scenic rock
harbour. The small town is El Golfo bay is to be had formations rise from the sea,
poised on the slope of an from Mirador de La Peña, 8 and are one of the island’s
evergreen valley (hence the km (5 miles) to the west. The most important bird colonies.
name), and is extremely quiet restaurant here was built in
and often rather foggy. 1988 following a design E NVIRONS : A short way to the
The only noteworthy local by César Manrique. south, Casas de Guinea is an
historic sight is Iglesia Santa old Norman settlement dating
María de la Concepción. from the early 15th century.
Built in 1767 on the site of a Frontera 2 Along with Las Montañetas, it
former 16th-century chapel, claims to be the oldest village
this vast church was erected @ _ Fiesta de la Virgen on El Hierro. Today it houses
in thanksgiving for the de la Candelaria (Aug). the Ecomuseo de Guinea – a
repulse of a pirate attack. The complex of former shepherds’
belfry includes a large clock ANY OF THEinhabitants of huts that have been restored
brought from Paris in 1886.
The main feature of the
M the island’s second
largest town make their living
and kitted out with furniture
from different periods.
interior is the Baroque altar. by growing grapes.
The town hall, standing These are the source
opposite the church, took 30 of Viña Frontera –
years to build (1910–40), and wines famous
is in the local style. throughout the
archipelago.
E NVIRONS : Tamaduste, 10 The Iglesia de la
km (6 miles) to the northeast, Candelaria, standing
is the islanders’ favourite on the outskirts of the
resort, and has a quiet cove town, was built in
with a pleasant beach. 1818 and occupies the
Charco Manso, 8 km (5 entire square. The
miles) to the north, is a interior, covered with
complex of natural pools set a wooden ceiling,
in volcanic rock. These are features a striking,
reached by a narrow road gilded altar. Standing The world’s smallest hotel in Las Puntas
 E L H I E R R O 137

A small site known as

Lagartario, above the
B AJADA DE LA V IRGEN DE LOS R EYES
museum, is used to provide In the early 18th century, during a period of drought, the
natural breeding conditions Madonna was carried down from the Nuestra Señora de los
for a rare species of lizard Reyes by villagers to Valverde and, hey presto, it rained.
from Salmor, found only in Since then a feast has been held every four years (2005, 2009)
El Hierro. A project to restore on the first or second Saturday in June. The statue of the
this species of giant, 1.5-m Holy Mother follows the same route along unmade country
(5-ft) lizard, extinct since the lanes – the Camino
1930s, commenced in 1975. de la Virgen – and is
Public viewing of the giant carried on a litter to
lizards is limited; apply to Valverde. The
the town hall in Tigaday. ceremony, which
Skeletons of the extinct giant begins at 5am and
lizards can today be seen in goes on till late, is
London and Vienna’s main accompanied by a
natural history museums. week of merriment,
with many villagers
E Ecomuseo de Guinea dressed in red and
# 10am–2pm and 4–6pm Tue–Sun white costumes. The “Descent of the Virgin”
¢ Mon. &

E NVIRONS : Playa de Arenas, El Sabinar 5

6 km (4 miles) to the west, is
a sandy beach, popular with
tourists and locals alike. HE NAME OFthis upland,
Some 10 km (6 miles)
to the west is Playa de
T swept by Atlantic winds
and crossed by a gorge,
Verodal. This small, scenic, derives from the local
windswept beach, with its word sabina (juniper). It
rust-coloured volcanic sands, features almost 300 white-
lies at the foot of a high cliff. trunked juniper trees that
Accessible via a bumpy, have bent and twisted into
coarse-gravel road, it is bizarre shapes.
generally considered to be El Sabinar is reached by a
the most beautiful stretch of road that starts out as asphalt
beach on the island. and later becomes a dirt track
East of Sabinosa, the road running among pastures and
runs to Los Llanillos, a tiny crossing cattle gates. It is a
village with a small chapel little under 4 km (2 miles)
Pozo de la Salud, poised on the built of blocks of volcanic from the sanctuary of Nuestra
shore of El Golfo bay rock. Standing by the Señora de los Reyes.
roadside is a workshop
Sabinosa 4 producing all shapes and E NVIRONS : Mirador de
sizes of birdcages. A little Basco, 3 km (2 miles) to
@ _ San Simón (end Oct). further along, the road the north, offers a view (on
reaches Charco Azul, where sunny days) not only of El
WAMPED WITH flowers, rocky coves with turquoise Golfo, but also of La Palma,
Sremote,
Sabinosa is pleasantly
with picturesque
water tempt visitors to swim. La Gomera and Tenerife.

narrow streets and paths.

Poised high up on a steep
slope, overlooking almost all
of El Golfo bay, it is known
for its “well of health” – Pozo
de la Salud – which can be
found by the sea below
Sabinosa. The water, which
must be drawn up by bucket
from a well, is highly
radioactive and is believed to
be something of a cure-all for
any number of ailments. A
modern hotel, built here in
1996 to cater to the needs of
health-seeking visitors, is the
only one of its type in the
Canary Islands. The island’s symbol – a wind-twisted juniper tree in El Sabinar
138 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

which is known principally as

the place where Jean de
Béthencourt landed in 1403.
Some 10 km (6 miles) to
the northwest is Cala del
Tacorón – a number of small
coves carved into the volcanic
shore of Mar de las Calmas.
Here, swimmers find the clear
waters and steps down to the
Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Reyes, surrounded by a low wall sea particularly inviting.
Cueva Don Justo, 2 km (1
Santuario La Restinga 7 mile) to the north, within the
Montaña de Prim massif, is a
de Nuestra Señora @ _ Fiesta de San Juan (24 Jun), great attraction to potholers,
de los Reyes 6 Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen with its 6-km (4-mile)
(16 Jul). labyrinth of underground
volcanic tunnels.
ET AMONG WOODED hills in a small fishing
A RESTINGA IS
Sisland,
the western part of the
surrounded by a low
L harbour and yacht basin,
situated on the sunniest,
wall, is the pilgrim sanctuary southern end of the island.
of the Holy Mother of the It is also one of the most
Kings (Magi) – the patron popular resorts on El Hierro.
saint of El Hierro. Inside is a There’s a large hotel and a
statue of the Madonna, kept small apartment complex and
on a silver litter. Every four the coastal road – Avenida
years, in the course of a Marítima – features a wide
ceremonial procession known variety of shops, bars and
as the Bajada de la Virgen de restaurants. This is a good
los Reyes, the statue is carried place to sit out and watch
to Valverde (see p137). the world drift by.
Legend has it that a French In the centre is a small,
ship was becalmed near the black sand beach that is
shores of the island, and the sheltered by the large
crew were only able to harbour. Though generally
survive thanks to the help of rather quiet, La Restinga has
El Hierro’s inhabitants. plenty of facilities for water Spectacular view from Mirador
Having no money to pay for sports including diving. The de las Playas
food and water, the captain local waters around here
presented the islanders with a have protected status and Isora 8
statue of the Virgin Mary. On feature rich marine fauna and
the same day, 6 January 1577, flora combined with _ Fiesta de San José (19 Mar).
the day of the Epiphany, a underwater gullies and
strong wind sent the ship on interesting rock formations ITUATED IN THE eastern part
her way. to explore. Diving centres
are open all year round
Spicturesque
of the island, Isora is a
assembly of
E NVIRONS : The Faro de and offer trips and night- several hamlets, and is
Orchilla lighthouse is 7 km time expeditions. famous for cheese production.
(4 miles) to the southwest. It is well worth trying to
The road leading to it is E NVIRONS : A short way to the arrive here at dawn to admire
initially asphalt but later northwest is Bahía de Naos – the magnificent sunrise.
becomes an unmade track. In
AD 150, the Greek geographer
Ptolemy declared this western
end of the island to be the
end of the world. In 1634, the
zero meridian was drawn
through this point and
remained recognized as such
until 1884, when it was
moved to Greenwich. Even
so, El Hierro still refers to
itself as “Isla del Meridiano”
and visitors can buy a
decorated certificate
confirming that they have
crossed the zero meridian. Volcanic peaks around La Restinga
 E L H I E R R O 139

Another attraction is Puerto

the famous lucha
canaria games, de la Estaca 0
when feats of
_ San Telmo (14 Sep).
Canary-style
wrestling take place NTIL1972, when the
at the local stadium. U airport opened, this small
harbour, cut off from the land
E NVIRONS : About by high volcanic cliffs, was
1 km (half a mile) the island’s only link with the
to the south, at the world. The name of the
edge of the harbour, built in 1906, is
mountain range derived from the word estaca,
of El Risco de los Mist-shrouded fields around San Andrés which is a type of wooden
Herrenos, is the pile, to which fishermen tied
Mirador de Isora, offering conditions cause many of their boats.
enchanting panoramic views them to leave this rough and
over the ocean. A narrow inhospitable terrain. E NVIRONS : The Roque de la
footpath, some 4 km (2 Bonanza, a bare basalt rock
miles) long, leads down to E NVIRONS : To the north, an rising vertically from the sea
the coast. asphalt road a little under 4 a few steps from the shore, is
About 3 km (2 miles) to km (2 miles) long, which 9 km (6 miles) to the south.
the south is Mirador de las later becomes a It can be reached via
Playas – a high viewpoint, footpath,
p leads to a beautiful coastline
set among Canary pines. The Árbol Santo – the road that is in the
broad terrace provides holy Bimbache shadow of a steep
magnificent panoramic views tree, known to volcanic slope.
over Las Playas bay, from locals as the Garoé. Take care: at one
Roque de la Bonanza up to According to point, the road
the parador. legend, water once Goat’s cheese produced passes through a
El Pinar, 6 km (4 miles) flowed from the in San Andrés single-lane tunnel
to the south, is the collective tree to give the with intermittently
name often used to describe island its entire supply (in functioning traffic lights.
two villages – Las Casas and fact the pine tree’s needles Some 2 km (1 mile) further
Taibique – which has a main had the ability to accumulate south, set amid picturesque
street featuring bars, large quantities of water). The scenery, stands the Parador
restaurants, shops, a hotel ancient tree was destroyed in del Hierro – the most
and bank. The local Artesania 1949 by a hurricane; in its comfortable hotel on the
Cerámica sells ceramics and place grows a lime tree, island. The hotel has an
handmade jewellery. There is planted here in 1957. isolated waterfront location,
also a small church – Iglesia Some 2 km (1 mile) to the with views of the cliff walls
de San Antonio. As well as southwest is Mirador de round the bay, and was built
displaying local relics, the Jinama. It is reached by road in the Castilian style between
Museo de Panchillo also through fields divided by dry 1973 and 1976. Its opening
sells figs and honey. stone walls. In clear weather, was delayed by five years,
the viewpoint provides a fine due to the slow building of
E Museo de Panchillo panorama over El Golfo bay. the road that terminates here.
C/El Lagar, 53. # no fixed
opening hours.

San Andrés 9
@ _ Fiesta de la Apañada (1st Sun
in Jun).

HEADY 1,100 m (3,600 ft)

A above sea level, San
Andrés is often shrouded
in thick fog. This small
agricultural town tends to be
hot in summer, but winters
are cold, with strong winds.
Its inhabitants live mainly
off the land, cultivating crops
and grazing sheep and goats.
Despite the fertile soil, the
unfavourable weather Roque de la Bonanza or “Rock of the Silent Ocean” in Las Playas bay
 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A 141

LA PALMA

T
HE PALMEROS REFER to La Palma as La Isla Bonita – “the

Beautiful Island”, or La Isla Verde – “the Green Island”. Both

nicknames are justified since the island is both extremely pretty
and strikingly lush. The rich vegetation of ferns and laurel forests,
together with the fine domestic gardens, regarded as the best-kept in the
archipelago, make this one of the greenest spots in the region.

The island’s greenery is in large volcanic rocks contrast with the

part thanks to the highest lush greenery of the remaining
rainfall in the Canary Islands. part of the island. Opinion is
In spring and autumn the divided as to when the
sun stays behind the next eruption is likely to
clouds for an average of 63 days take place.
and the plants enjoy excellent The island’s population engages
growing conditions. mainly in agriculture. An
The fifth largest island of the abundance of water ensures good
archipelago, La Palma is shaped crops of grapes, avocados,
like the head of a stone axe. It Statue of a bananas and tobacco. The
is claimed to be among the “dancing dwarf” latter is used to make cigars
world’s most mountainous that are considered by experts
islands, in terms of its height to area to be as good as the cigars produced
ratio (the island is 706 sq km/273 sq in Cuba. La Palma is also known for
miles). The highest peak – Roque de its production of honey while, like
los Muchachos – measures 2,426 m many of the islands, fishing plays an
(7,957 ft). Like the rest of the important part in the local economy.
archipelago, La Palma is a volcanic Mass tourism remains less of a
island and its volcanoes cannot be feature here, due in part to the
regarded as truly extinct. The last shortage of pleasant beaches along
eruption occurred in 1971 in the the island’s craggy coastline, though
south of the island, where the black there are good tourist centres on the
lava fields and reddish brown west and east coasts.

Glittering volcanic rocks, providing a fairytale-like spectacle of colour around Pico de la Cruz

Green areas of Caldera de Taburiente national park

142 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring La Palm
A PALMA IS excellent for walki
Lstrenuous
cater for all tastes from a gen
hike. Its varied landsc
volcanic ash region of Fuencalie
almost tropical forests of Los Ti
compensate for the lack of grea
Free of the bustle of the larger r 6
there’s ample opportunity for re
relaxation, while the coastal wa
Palma, rich in aquatic life, will a
divers. An excursion along the v
trail, in the south of the island,
of the highlights of a visit here,
sampling the local wines and cu

Colourful wooden balconies on the sea

promenade at Santa Cruz de La Palma
0

S IGHTS AT A G LANCE
Barlovento 5
Fuencaliente de La Palma q
La Zarza 6
Las Nieves 2
Los Llanos de Aridane 8
Los Tilos 3
Mazo e
Parque Nacional de la Caldera
de Taburiente pp150–51 9
Puerto Naos 0
San Andrés 4
Santa Cruz
de La Palma pp144–5 1
Tazacorte 7

Excursions
Ruta de los Volcanes w
 L A P A L M A 143

A T L A N T IC O CE A N
SANTA CRUZ
DE TENERIFE
FE
5
LA
AS PALMAS
A
DE GRAN CANARIA

ATOR M AP
4

9
2
g1

onomical observatory on top

he Roque de los Muchachos
k

K EY
e Major road

Other road

Scenic route

k Airport

w g Ferry harbour

J Viewpoint

an Andrés
144 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Santa Cruz de La Palma 1

ANTA CRUZ DE LA PALMA , situated on a bay known to

Splayed
the Guanches as Timibucar, has from its early days
a vital role in the economic and political life of
Spain. During the 16th century it was the third most
important port in the entire Spanish empire, after
Seville and Antwerp. It was also considered the best
shipbuilding centre in the Canary Islands. The town’s
wealth attracted pirates, who plundered it on several
occasions, including a particularly brutal raid in 1553
by Jean-Paul de Billancourt, otherwise known as
“Pegleg”. However, Santa Cruz de La Palma always
managed to recover and today it is the capital of the Calle O’Daly, the main street
island and an important communications centre. of Santa Cruz’s old town

Exploring Santa Cruz former wealth and prestige. P Plaza de España

de La Palma It was named after an Irish At the very heart of Santa
Poised on the slopes of a banana merchant who settled Cruz lies the Plaza de España.
volcanic crater, this is one of here. The street is lined on This triangular space, with its
the Canary Islands’ loveliest both sides with historic 16th-century fountain,
towns. Its compact layout houses and residences. The is surrounded by historic
features many most outstanding buildings. The statue in the
modern houses of these are the middle is of Manuel Diáz
and a picturesque Palacio de Hernández (1774–1863), a
old town. The Salazar (No. 22), priest of San Salvador church
centre developed which dates from who preached political
within a short the early 17th liberalism in his sermons.
space of time and century and
consequently has features distinctive R Iglesia de El Salvador
a harmonious wooden balconies, Plaza de España. # 8:30am–1pm
appearance. and the 19th- & 4–8:30pm daily.
But Santa Statues of musicians in century Casa Built at the end of the 15th
Cruz de La Palma Calle O’Daly Pinto (No. 2). century, the church acquired
is more than a its present shape in the
collection of colonial R Ermita de San Sebastían second half of the 16th
architectural relics. Numerous Plaza de San Sebastían. century. This is the most
bars and restaurants along This small chapel, which is monumental example of the
Avenida Marítima are popular usually closed, is one of several Canary Islands’ Renaissance
with locals and tourists in Santa Cruz; the others architecture. Its fa˜ade has
alike, and add to the town’s include the 16th-century a portal in the form of
atmosphere. Ermita de Nuestra Señora a triumphal arch (1503) – an
de la Luz, which stands in the allegory of Christ and his
P Calle O’Daly picturesque San Sebastián Church. The interior features
The main street, now turned Square. Inside is a statue of a mudéjar (Spanish-Moorish)
into a pedestrian precinct, Saint Catherine, which was coffered ceiling and sculptures
bears testimony to the town’s brought here from Antwerp. by Fernando Estévez.

P Casas Consistoriales
Plaza de España.
Casas Consistoriales, formerly
the bishop’s palace and now
the town hall, was built in
1559–63. Its Renaissance
fa˜ade, resting on columned
arcades, is decorated with the
bust of Philip II, carved in low
relief, and the crests of La
Palma and the Habsburgs. The
inside walls are decorated
with paintings by Mariano de
Cassio, depicting island life.

P Avenida Marítima
Avenida Marítima is regarded
Iglesia de El Salvador in Plaza de España as one of the Canary Islands’
 S A N T A C R U Z D E L A P A L M A 145

most beautiful and E Museo Naval

best-preserved # 9:30am–2:30pm V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
shorelines. At its Mon–Fri; summer: also * 20,000. @ g k 11 km (7
southern end stands 4–7pm. & miles) south. n Plaza de la
a dragon tree (see Near Plaza de la Constitucíon, 922 412 106.
p14), with curiously Alameda stands ( Sat, Sun. _ Carnival (Jan/Feb),
twisted branches. At a 1940 replica Fiesta de la Cruz (3 May), Bajada de
the northern end of of the Santa María la Virgen (Jun/Jul, every 5 years).
the shore stands – the tiny ship in
the Casas de los which Christopher
Balcones – a row Main altar in Iglesia Columbus set off + Castillo de Santa Catalina
of picturesque old de San Francisco in 1492 to discover Avenida Marítima.
houses, which the New World. This 16th-century castle is
have been wonderfully The inhabitants of Santa Cruz also known as Castillo Real.
restored, with colourful have named the ship El Barco It was built as a defence
elevations, featuring beautiful de la Virgen – the Ship of the against pirates who
wooden balconies. Holy Virgin. Inside is a plundered ships as they left
modest maritime museum. the port for the Americas
R Iglesia de San Francisco The core of its collection with exports of goods such
Plaza de San Francisco. # 9am–2pm consists of fascinating as sugar cane. In 1585,
& 4–6:30pm Mon–Fri. & old charts, navigational gunfire from the castle
In 1508, Franciscan monks instruments and a variety prevented Sir Francis Drake
accompanying Alonso of ships’ flags. from taking over the island.
Fernándo de Lugo in his
conquest of the island began
to build their abbey in Santa
Cruz. The church, built in the
16th–17th centuries, is one of
the earliest examples of
Renaissance architecture on
La Palma. Outstanding features
of the interior include the
main altar and the coffered
ceiling, as well as the richly
painted décor. Today, the
abbey houses the Museo
Insular exhibiting local
relics, along with Guanche
skulls, stuffed animals and
Spanish-school paintings. El Barco de la Virgen, a replica of Christopher Columbus’s ship

2 4
6
3

5
h

h
h
146 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

her miraculous viewpoint. A longer and

appearance during much more difficult (6-km/4-
a freak August mile) trail with steep ascents
snowstorm in Rome. leads in a southwesterly
The side walls of the direction to Caldera de
church are decorated Marcos y Cordero, where a
with a row of ex voto determined tourist can admire
canvases. These the picturesque waterfalls.
votive pictures are in
thanks for numerous
miracles performed San Andrés 4
by the island’s patron
saint, including * 1,100. @ _ Fiesta de San
saving a ship caught Andrés (30 Nov).
in a storm, calming
the stormy seas and village,
HIS PRETTY SEASIDE
answering the prayers
of couples hoping to
T with cobbled streets and
squares planted with flowers
Rich interior of Santuario de Las Nieves have children. and palms, is filled with
typical local houses. At its
Las Nieves 2 Los Tilos 3 centre stands the Iglesia de
San Andrés Apostól. Built as
@ _ Bajada de la Virgen de las 3 km (2 miles) west of San Andrés.
a fortified church in the 16th
Nieves (Jun/Jul, every 5 years). n Centro de Investigaciones e Inter-
century and extended in the
pretación de la Reserva de Biosfera
17th century, this is one of
, lying among
HIS VILLAGE the oldest churches in the
T green hills above Santa
Cruz de La Palma, is the main
“Los Tilos”. # 9am–4pm Mon–Fri.

HE ROCKY , almost vertical

Canary Islands. The interior
features a Baroque main altar
pilgrimage centre and the
most important religious
T sides of the deep Barranco
del Agua ravine are
and retable and a mudéjar-
style coffered ceiling. Look
r

shrine on the island. overgrown with a misty, out, too, for the paintings of
Standing in a picturesque evergreen rainforest, which assorted human limbs on the
spot is the Santuario de la includes moss-covered laurel wall, hung here in thanks for
Virgen de las Nieves. Its trees – the island’s largest the supposed healing powers
small church was built in concentration of the ancient of the church’s patron saint.
1657 on the site of the laurisilva – as well as lime, San Andrés remains under
original chapel. It forms a myrtle and ferns. joint administration with the
historic complex together In 1983, Los Tilos was larger town of Los Sauces,
with the neighbouring declared a biosphere reserve hence the combined name of
buildings: the 17th-century by UNESCO. A 3-km (2-mile) San Andrés y Los Sauces. The
Pilgrim’s House, the early winding asphalt road, running environs of both towns are
18th-century Parish House, along the bottom of the famous for the cultivation of
and several houses that once ravine, leads to the tourist bananas and sugar cane.
belonged to members of the centre, with its information The only noteworthy
local aristocracy. point and restaurant. building in Los Sauces is the
The church is a typical The reserve area, measuring Iglesia Nuestra Señora de
example of colonial Canary some 5 sq km (2 sq miles), Montserrat, the largest
architecture, with wooden has several marked walking church on the island, which
balcony fa˜ades, whitewashed trails. One of them leads to dates back to 1515. Its present
walls and a lovely mudéjar the Mirador de las Barrandas Neo-Romanesque appearance
(Spanish-Moorish) ceiling
made of Canary pine. The
lights of flickering candles, lit
by the faithful, and the rich
interior décor give the place
its unique atmosphere. The
central position on the gilded
Baroque main altar is
occupied by a 14th-century
82-cm (32-inch) high
terracotta statue of the
Madonna of the Snow, the
island’s patron saint, which
was made in Flanders and
stands on a base of Mexican
silver. Her image refers not
so much to the snowy peaks
of the archipelago as to The modest Iglesia de San Andrés Apostól
 L A P A L M A 147

is the result of refurbishment

in 1960. Inside is a picture of
the Madonna, attributed to the
Dutch artist, Pieter Poubrus.

E NVIRONS : A short way to

the south is Charco Azul – a
tiny village set among banana
tree plantations. High cliffs
provide effective shelter for a
natural tidal pool of a startling
blue shade.
About 7 km (4 miles) to the
south is Puntallana. One of
its historic sights is the Iglesia
San Juan Bautista. However,
Puntallana owes most of
its popularity to Playa de
Nogales – a long, black sand Mysterious rock carvings in La Zarza
beach backed by steep cliffs.
La Zarza 6 Tazacorte 7
10 km (6 miles) west of Barlovento. * 3,000. @ _ Fiesta de San
Miguel (29 Sep).
HE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE of
T La Zarza provides visible 1492, Alonso Fernandez
N
evidence of the Benahoares – I de Lugo commenced the
the former inhabitants of La conquest of the island from
Palma – who left strange Tazacorte. Today, the skyline
signs carved into the rock in of this small town, surrounded
several sites throughout the by banana plantations, is
north of the island, including dominated by the Iglesia de
Roque Faro, Don Pedro and San Miguel Arcángel. The
Juan Adalid. These carvings church, built in the 16th
consist mostly of spirals, century, was extended in
circles and linear figures, and 1992 and given a magnificent,
have survived in their natural abstract stained-glass window.
environment, though their Next to the church is a
meaning remains unknown. pergola lined with ceramic
The information centre has tiles and overgrown with
a small museum illustrating bougainvillea – the traditional
Picturesque gullies criss-crossing the everyday life of the meeting place of the locals.
the area around Barlovento Benahoares. The exhibition
includes a 20-minute video E NVIRONS : Just 12 km (7
Barlovento 5 and shows how the ancient miles) to the north is Mirador
inhabitants of the island lived, del Time, which provides a
* 750. @ _ Fiesta de la Virgen and reveals their diet, medical fine view over Los Llanos,
del Rosario (2 Aug, every 2 years). practices and burial rites. The Tazacorte, the surrounding
illuminated screens display mountains and the ocean.
ESIDES THEIglesia de images of erupting volcanoes,
B Nuestra Señora, with its
altar of 1767 and some
island scenery, its flora, fauna,
and a map pointing out where
16th–18th-century Spanish the rock carvings were found.
sculptures, Barlovento’s main When the carvings were
claim to fame is its fiesta held discovered here in 1941 they
every two years in August, became an archaeological
when the villagers recreate sensation. Apart from the
bloody scenes from the Battle puzzling pictures, the ancient
of Lepanto (1571). inhabitants of the island also
left two Aztec-style carved
E NVIRONS : For a dip, try the images: one of a man, and an
Piscinas de Fajana, 6 km (4 abstract figure of a woman
miles) to the northeast where with the head of an insect.
the Atlantic keeps a rock pool
topped up with cool water. T Parque Cultural La Zarza
The nearby lighthouse at La Mata, s/n . § 922 695 005.
Punta Cumplida has been # winter: 11am–5pm; summer: Banana plantations growing
operating non-stop since 1860. 11am–7pm. & almost in the centre of Tazacorte
148 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Puerto Naos 0 the home of the oldest and

largest winery on the island,
* 500. @ established in 1948. Evidence
of the town’s historic past can
,
SMALL QUIET resort, Puerto be seen in the parish church
A Naos was once a fishing
village, but now features an
of San Antonio Abad (1730).

ever-increasing number of low- E NVIRONS : A little over 10 km

built apartment complexes. Its (6 miles) to the south is
main tourist attraction is the Punta Fuencaliente, the
guaranteed good weather, southernmost point of La
with some 3,300 annual hours Palma. It features a lighthouse
Wide boulevard leading to Plaza of sunshine. and salt pans.
España in Los Llanos de Aridane Running along the black
sand palm-lined beach, the
Los Llanos longest on La Palma, is a Mazo e
small promenade with cafés,
de Aridane 8 restaurants and small shops. * 5,300. @ ( Sat, Sun.
It also features the four-star _ Corpus Christi (May–Jun).
* 20,000. @ _ Fiesta de los Hotel Sol Palma, opened in AZO IS FAMOUS for its
Remedios (2 Jul, every 2 years).
HE SECOND LARGEST town
1990. This modern, tiered
hotel was once the
M handmade cigars
( puros). Tourists also
T of La Palma is a modern
affair, with the exception of
biggest on the island
and can accommodate
shop here for handicrafts
including woven baskets
the Plaza de España. This nearly 1,000 guests. and lacework. The
charming square, with laurel Escuela Insular de
trees casting a pleasant shade E NVIRONS : Charco Artesanía has these for
over café tables, is a venue Verde, about 2 km sale and also holds
for concerts. (1 mile) to the south, demonstrations of how
One side of the square is is a scenic sandy beach. they are made. Other
occupied by the town hall. The beach is sheltered sights include the
Opposite it stands the Iglesia from the Atlantic Cerámica el
de Nuestra Señora de los waves, and ideal A Madonna from Molino, known for
Remedios. This white 16th- for families. Mazo’s San Blás its production of
century church is built in the replica black
Canary colonial style. Its Guanche vessels, and the
Baroque main altar features a
Fuencaliente Museo de Corpus, in a villa
16th-century Dutch statue of de La Palma q called Casa Roja, which
its patron saint. exhibits street decorations for
* 1,800. @ _ La Vendimia the feast of Corpus Christi.
E NVIRONS : About 3 km (2 (14–30 Aug), San Martín (11 Dec). The Iglesia de San Blás
miles) to the east is El Paso, (1512), which looks out
a small town famous for its HE NAME OF this place towards Tenerife, was
handmade cigars. Its main
feature is the old quarter,
T derives from the words
fuente caliente, meaning “hot
extended in the 19th century
and features a beautiful
with traditional Canary-style spring”. However, the spring Baroque altar and richly
buildings surrounding the has long since been carved decorations.
Ermita de la Virgen de la swallowed by a series of
Concepción de la Bonanza. volcanic eruptions. E NVIRONS : Just 4 km (2 miles)
Next to the chapel stands Set amid vineyards, the to the south is the Cueva de
a modern church with Neo- small town is best-known for Belmaco, a cave with original
Gothic furnishings, dedicated its sweet, heavy wine and is Guanche inscriptions.
to the same saint.
A short way south of El
Paso is the Parque Paraíso
de las Aves – a combination
of botanical garden and
miniature zoo, housing exotic
birds from many corners
of the world.

Parque Nacional
de la Caldera
de Taburiente 9
See pp150–51. San Antonio volcano near Fuencaliente de La Palma
 L A P A L M A 149

Ruta de los Volcanes w

SOMEWHAT ARDUOUS TRAIL leads along

A the Cumbre Vieja mountain ridge, from
Refugio el Pilar (alt. 1,450 m/4,756 ft) towards
Fuencaliente. The hike, which should take a
fit walker some 6-7 hours, is an unforgettable
experience. Winding round steep volcanic
rims, the path leads past striking geological
formations and provides magnificent views of
the eastern and western coasts of the island. Refugio del Pilar 1
This ridge, with a walkers’ shelter,
Fuencaliente 6 is a popular picnic spot. It can be
From here the trail continues further south, reached by car and is a good
towards the nearby volcanoes of San Antonio starting point for hikes.
(last eruption in
eruption in 1971) Montaña
de los Charcos 2
A powerful eruption
of this volcano took
place in 1712 when a
1 vast flow of lava
wamped much of the
southwestern part
of the island.
2
Volcán Martín 5
The eruption of th
volcano in 1646 d
the former springs
(believed to be a 3
leprosy) that gave
nearby town its n
4

del Hoyo Negro 3

runs along the edge
he San Juan volcano,
most recently erupted
Cráter del Duraz 9. The crater, with its
This crater, rising of solidified lava, is a
(6,238 ft) above se der of how relatively
was left after the e ent the eruption was.
of San Antonio in
To the left of it sta 0 km 1
peak of Nambroq
0 miles 1

T IPS FOR W ALKERS

Length: 19 km (12 miles).
Stopping-off points:
Fuencaliente is a good place te
to halt for a meal. Other road
Note: Don’t stray from the
marked trail, and make sure you Footpath
carry a supply of drinking water. J Viewpoint
150 C A N A R Y I S L A N D S A R E A B Y A R E A

Parque Nacional de la
Caldera de Taburiente 9

A CALDERA DE TABURIENTE , a massive crater

Lvolcanic
formed in the course of several powerful
eruptions, is a natural fortress and served
as a refuge for the last Benahoares when the
Spanish invaded in the 15th cen ntury. Some of its
walls reach up to 2,000 m (6,560 ft). Awarded Roque de los Muchachos
national park status in 1954, thee crater has many Six telescopes have been
walking trails (some walks requ ui
head for heights!). No roads run n
the park, and walkers should ma
take with them enough water an n

Caldera de Taburiente
The lush vegetation, much of it un
ni
and the bare, rugged summits of th
shrouded in mist, appeal to lovers o

A STRONOMICAL O BSERVATT O n
Thanks to their clear skies, the Caan
Islands are regarded as one of thee
places for conducting observations
cosmos. The International Astroph hy
Observatory near Roque de los Mu u
was opened in 1985, in the presen nc
King Juan Carlos and many Europ pe
heads of state. Several telescopes, in
the largest Anglo-Dutch one, name
William Herschel and measuring 42
(165 inches) in diameter, are used d
night observations. There is thereffo
ban between 8pm and 9am on thee
lights while driving in the park (onn
year the entire island switches off i
to make certain experiments possiib

The Herschel telescope inside the observatory

 L A C A L D E R A D E T A B U R I E N T E 151

Mirador de los Andenes

These bare rocks, eroded by V ISITORS ’ C HECKLIST
wind and moisture over Tourist centre: east of El Paso.
thousands of years, have § 922 497 277.
been shaped into curious ` 922 497 081.
natural works of art. # 9am–6:30pm daily.

Pico de la Cruz
This is one of park’s
highest peaks. A
challenging 4 5

Trail tto Roque de los Muchachos

l, running along the highest peaks of
a de Tabburiente, provides a view over
e stunnningly steep walls of the crater,
shrouded with dense fog.

La Cumbrecita
A good asphalt
road leads to
La Cumbrecita,
which has an
information
point. This
is a good
viewpoint
from which to
see the park.

as
ail
ry
La
ta
hn
h n
mo
as,
ws
est
nd
se.
 TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS

W H E R E T O S T A Y 154–163
W H E R E T O E A T 164–175
S H O P P I N G I N T H E C A N A R Y I S L A N D S 176–177
E NTERTAINMENT IN THE C ANARY I SLANDS 1 7 8 – 1 7 9
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 180–183
154 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

WHERE TO STAY
HE CANARY ISLANDS are to find cheap places to stay

T seventh on the list of

the world’s most
frequently visited places,
in high season. The smaller,
less-frequented islands, such
as El Hierro and La Gomera,
with a sophisticated and offer lower prices, but do not
highly organized tourist have many hotels. In recent
industry. Popularity has its years, casas rurales have
downside, however, and the Tenerife’s parador become more widespread.
accommodation prices can Usually in country properties
be high. This applies in particular to the of charm and character, they provide
larger islands, such as Tenerife and much more varied and individual
Gran Canaria, where it can be difficult alternatives to conventional hotels.
A PARTMENTS
most
PARTMENTS ARE THE
A popular form of
accommodation on the
islands and there are many
more of these than there are
hotels. They can either be
situated within hotel
buildings or as separate
blocks or complexes.
Quality varies, but most
include a lounge, fully
equipped kitchen, bathroom
and one or two bedrooms.
Most sleep between two and
Guest lounge in Las Cañadas del Teide parador on Tenerife six people, but it is sometimes
possible to combine two
H OTELS It is certainly advisable to apartments into one.
check in advance to find out Apartments are especially
OTELS ARE THEmost whether these facilities are suitable for families with
H expensive form of
accommodation on the
included in the price or are
charged for separately.
young children.
Apartments are generally
Canary Islands. Many of them better value for couples or
belong to international hotel P ARADORS families than staying in a
chains, such as NH Hotels, hotel, though many require
Riu, TRYP or the Spanish - parador
HE SIX STATE RUN you to stay at least three to
chains (Sol Meliá, H10 Hoteles
and Paradores Nacionales) and
T hotels (one on each island
except Lanzarote) are
five nights and sometimes a
week is the minimum.
are block-booked by foreign attractively located in coastal Some apartments form part
package tour operators for or national park settings. of a complex and provide
most of the year. They provide a first-class similar facilities to those
The hotels in large town service and usually have offered by hotels. Most of
centres cater mainly for excellent restaurants. Despite these have a swimming pool
business visitors. Popular their high prices, they offer and a small playing field or
coastal resorts have huge good value and are well tennis courts. Some have
hotel complexes, aimed worth considering. much more.
squarely at the tourist market.
These have been built
relatively near the beaches
and are generally surrounded
by lush tropical gardens.
Hotels are designed so that
most rooms have sea views.
Complexes vie with each
other to offer their guests
maximum fun, day and night.
Many have tennis courts, large
swimming pools, mini-golf,
gymnasia or exercise rooms. Bungalows in Las Puntas on El Hierro
 W H E R E T O S T A Y 155

C ASAS R URALES
URAL HOTELS (casas rurales)
R are generally converted
farms or village houses and
are aimed at those seeking
quiet, out-of-the-way places.
Most of them are located far
from the traditional resorts
and can be found in small
towns and villages. Some
have no public transport so it
is wise to check whether you
will need to hire a car. One of the few camp sites to be found on Lanzarote
However, they are not
necessarily a cheap option. It is obviously possible to holidays and carnivals. It
Neither can they offer the make a booking without should be understood that
same variety of facilities as using a travel agent. It is best hotels quote their prices in
the large hotel complexes, to do so well in advance, various ways. Some are per
but this is the very reason that although it is sometimes night in a twin room; others
many visitors seek them out. possible to find something at are per person per night.
Casas rurales offer a degree short notice. The price is subject to 5
of authenticity and Hotels and pensions can be per cent IGIC tax, which is
individuality not found booked over the telephone, or generally included in the
elsewhere and the rooms via the Internet. Some places, quote. Prices quoted by
and communal spaces particularly the smaller apartments, pensions and
are often characterful hotels and casas casas rurales do not usually
and furnished rurales, may include breakfast. Until
with local require a deposit. recently, hotels always
handicraft items. When booking, included breakfast in the
This is definitely bear in mind peak price of the room, but this
the best choice tourist times, and habit seems to be gradually
for those who festivals and disappearing.
appreciate a Entrance to Jardín carnivals, especially Most hotels accept credit
personal touch. Tropical hotel when going to Gran cards. Pensions and casas
All tourist in Costa Adeje Canaria or Tenerife. rurales usually prefer to be
information offices paid in cash.
have full lists of organizations P RICES
offering this type of service.
Information can also be found OTEL PRICES DEPEND on the D IRECTORY
on the Internet or in the
Guía de Alojamiento en Casas
H season and the island.
The dates when prices O VERNIGHT
Rurales de España publication. change are determined by A CCOMMODATION
individual hoteliers, so it is
CAMPING SITES worth finding out in advance ∑ www.hotelsearch.com
what prices apply at particular ∑ www.tourspain.es
AMPING SITES ARE rather times. Tariffs will obviously
C primitive and most islands be higher during popular
have only one or two sites at
P ARADORS
most. Before travelling it is ∑ www.parador.es
wise to find out about the $ [email protected]
situation on a particular
island. Just turning up and C ASAS R URALES
pitching your tent on the
beach is generally forbidden. ∑ www.canary-islands.com
∑ www.toprural.com
B OOKING
C AMPING S ITES
OST OF THE islands’ hotel
M rooms and apartments
are booked by travel agents
Federación Española
de Empresarios de
and tour operators in advance. Camping
They then sell on the holidays, C/San Bernardo, 97–98,
including flights and half- 28015 Madrid.
board. Such holidays do not § 914 481 234.
suit everyone but are the ` 914 481 267.
cheapest way to visit the Apartments overlooking the
Canary Islands. beach on Lanzarote
156 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Hotel

C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMME
OTELS OF VARIOUS price categories have been chosen for
H

V IEW
R OOMS
their standard, their good value and their attractive

S WIMMING P OOL
location. They are listed separately for each island, in the

WITH A
C REDIT C ARDS
order in which they appear in the guide. For each island,

OF
N UMBER
they are listed in alphabetical order according to location.

R OOMS
For more information on hotels see page 154.

G RAN C ANARIA
A GÜIMES : Casa de los Camellos ¡¡ 12 ● ■
C/Progreso, 12. § 928 785 003. ` 928 785 053. $ [email protected]
This hotel occupies a historic building with stylish décor. Features include
a restaurant/bar and immaculately kept gardens. The hotel exudes a quiet
and peaceful atmosphere. μ ) 0

C RUZ DE T EJEDA : El Refugio ¡¡ 10 ● ■

§ 928 666 513. ` 928 666 520. $ [email protected]
The quiet and cosy rooms of this hotel feature stylish furniture, most of
which is handcrafted. The hotel restaurant serves a mixture of local and
international cuisine. μ z ) 0 h

F ATAGA : Molino de Agua de Fataga ¡ 20 ● ● ■

Ctra. Fataga – San Bartolomé, 1 km (half a mile). § 928 172 089. ` 928 172 244.
Occupying a 200-year-old building, restored by its present owners, this
hotel is only a few steps away from the 19th-century water mill that gives
the establishment its name.
μ)0hß

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Fataga & Centro de Negocios ¡¡ 94 ●

C/Néstor de la Torre, 21.
§ 928 290 614. ` 928 292 786. $ [email protected]
This luxurious and modern hotel, situated in the Las Palmas shopping
district, provides an attractive option for tourists and business travellers.
μz)0h

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Parque ¡¡ 102 ● ●

C/Muelle de las Palmas, 2.
§ 928 368 000. ` 928 368 856. $ [email protected]
The hotel stands opposite the magnificent park of San Telmo, and the
restaurant terrace offers unforgettable views over the park and the ocean.
The facilities include a Turkish bath. μ z ) 0

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Reina Isabel ¡¡¡ê 224 ● ● ■

C/Alfredo L. Jones, 40.
§ 928 260 100. ` 928 274 558. $ [email protected]
This central hotel on Las Canteras beach has lovely sea views from many
rooms, and from its restaurants. μ z ) 0 h

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Santa Catalina ¡¡¡¡¡ 202 ● ■

C/León y Castillo, 227. § 928 243 040. ` 928 242 764.
∑ www.hotelsantacatalina.com $ [email protected]
Occupying a Canary-style building, this hotel is listed as a historic and
artistic heritage site. The hotel entertains many prominent guests and is
situated in the town centre and surrounded by magnificent gardens.
μz)∫÷K7h

M ASPALOMAS : Gran Hotel Costa Meloneras ¡¡¡¡ 1136

6 ● ■ ■
C/Mar Mediterraneo, 1.
§ 928 128 100. ` 928 128 122. ∑ www.lopesanhr.com $ [email protected]
Opened at the end of 2000, this huge hotel complex offers its guests
countless sporting attractions and a wonderful atmosphere thanks to its
traditional local architecture. μ z ) 0 K

M ASPALOMAS : Maspalomas Oasis (Riu) ¡¡¡¡¡ 342 ● ● ■

Centro Hotelero de Maspalomas.
§ 928 141 448. ` 928 141 192. ∑ www.riu.com $ [email protected]
A smart, five-star hotel, offering splendid facilities for recreation even to the
most fastidious guests. The rooms are arranged in three- to five-storey
buildings, which stand in a large park, with direct access to the beach.
μz)0KF
 W H E R E T O S T A Y 157

C REDIT C ARDS
Price categories for a standard Accepted credit cards include American Express,
double room per night including MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club.

C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMME
breakfast, service and tax.
C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMMES

V IEW
R OOMS
Hotel provides programmes for children and/or child-
¡ below 50 euros minding facilities.

S WIMMING P OOL
WITH A
¡¡ 50–100 euros

C REDIT C ARDS
R OOMS WITH A V IEW
¡¡¡ 100–150 euros

OF
Hotel rooms have splendid views, including the ocean.
¡¡¡¡ 150–200 euros

N UMBER
S WIMMING P OOL

R OOMS
¡¡¡¡¡ over 200 euros. The hotel has a pool for the exclusive use of its guests.

M OGÁN : Dunas La Canaria ¡¡¡¡¡ 249 ● ■ ● ■

Barranco de la Verga. § 928 150 400. ` 928 151 003.
∑ www.hotelesduna.com $ [email protected]
The hotel’s wonderful style manages to combine simplicity with
elegance. Situated right on the coast, each balcony is decorated with
a different type of flower. μ z ) 0 ÷ K F 7 h

P LAYA DEL I NGLÉS : Catarina ¡¡¡ 402 ● ■ ■

Avda. de Tirajana, 1. § 928 762 812. ` 928 760 615.
∑ www.lopesanhr.com $ [email protected]
The hotel has large rooms, with double or twin beds (a third can
be provided on request). It features swimming pools and offers various
health treatments. μ z ) 0 F

P LAYA DEL I NGLÉS : IFA Dunamar ¡¡¡ 273 ● ● ■

C/Helsinki, 8. § 928 772 800. ` 928 773 465. ∑ www.ifahotels.com
$ [email protected]
The hotel stands on a slope, descending towards the ocean. The architects
took advantage of its location to create numerous terraces and swimming
pools at different levels. μ z ) 0 7 h

P LAYA DEL I NGLÉS : Neptuno ¡¡¡ 171 ● ■ ■

Avda. Alféreces Provisionales, 29. § 928 777 492. ` 928 766 965.
∑ www.grupomur.com $ [email protected]
The hotel combines modern style with a family atmosphere. It is adjacent
to a small shopping centre and not far from the beach. μ z ) 0 F

P LAYA DEL I NGLÉS : Palace Maspalomas (Riu) ¡¡¡¡¡ 368 ● ■ ■

Avda. Tirajana, s/n. § 928 769 500. ` 928 769 800.
∑ www.riu.com $ [email protected]
The magnificent architecture, resembling an amphitheatre, and an excellent
restaurant are among the many attractions of this hotel, which offers
exceptionally varied entertainments. μ z ) 0 ÷ K F 7 h

S AN A GUSTÍN : Costa Canaria ¡¡¡¡¡ 235 ● ■ ● ■

Las Retamas, 1. § 928 760 220. ` 928 720 413. $ [email protected]
Quiet and restful, the hotel is by the beach and features colourful tropical
gardens. It offers bungalows as well as rooms. μ z ) L 7

S AN B ARTOLOMÉ DE T IRAJANA : Aldiana Mirador ¡¡¡¡¡ 60 ● ■

C/Oficial Mayor José Rubio, s/n. § 928 123 000. ` 928 123 023.
∑ www.aldiana.com
The building’s décor includes a number of Canary motifs by Francisco
López. Three suites have the luxury of their own Jacuzzi. The restaurant
offers good local cuisine. μ z ) 0 h

T AFIRA A LTA : Escuela Santa Brígida ¡¡¡ 41 ● ■

C/Real de Coello, 2. § 928 355 511. ` 928 010 401. $ [email protected]
The hotel building, lovingly restored in 1922, can boast more than 100
years of history as well as an excellent catering school. It is surrounded by
magnificent greenery and provides an ideal place for a rest. μ z ) 0

T AURITO : Taurito Princess ¡¡¡ 402 ● ■ ● ■

Urb. Costa Taurito – Playa Taurito. § 928 565 250. ` 928 565 566.
This hotel has its own private beach. It is situated 4 km (2 miles) from
Puerto Mogán. All rooms have sea views. It offers many recreational
facilities to its guests. μ z ) 7 K

V EGA DE S AN M ATEO : La Cantonera ¡¡ 15

Avda. de Tinamar, 17. § 928 660 108. ` 928 661 777.
The building, typical of the Canary Islands’ architecture, features wooden
balconies decked out with a variety of local plants. It is equipped with all
the facilities expected of a modern hotel. 0
For key to symbols see back flap
158 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

C REDIT C ARDS
Price categories for a standard Accepted credit cards include American Express,
double room per night including MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club.

C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMME
breakfast, service and tax.
C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMMES

V IEW
R OOMS
Hotel provides programmes for children and/or child-
¡ below 50 euros minding facilities.

S WIMMING P OOL
WITH A
¡¡ 50–100 euros

C REDIT C ARDS
R OOMS W ITH A V IEW
¡¡¡ 100–150 euros

OF
Hotel rooms have splendid views, including the ocean.
¡¡¡¡ 150–200 euros

N UMBER
S WIMMING P OOL

R OOMS
¡¡¡¡¡ over 200 euros. The hotel has a pool for the exclusive use of its guests.

F UERTEVENTURA
A NTIGUA : Hotel Elba Palace Golf ¡¡¡¡ 61 ● ■ ● ■
Urb. Fuerteventura Golf Club. § 928 163 922. ` 928 163 923.
∑ www.hoteleselba.com
The island’s only five-star hotel was designed in typical Canary style, with
wooden balconies and patios with palms, and is ideal for golf and water
sports enthusiasts. μ z ) 0 ∫ ÷ 7 h

C ALETA DE F USTE : Bungalows Fuerte Sol ¡ 110 ● ■ ■

§ 928 163 017. ` 928 163 071. $ [email protected]
Two or three-person bungalows, including kitchen, lounge,
and a separate bedroom. ) ∫ 7 h

C ALETA DE F USTES : Barceló Club El Castillo ¡¡ 420 ● ■ ● ■

§ 928 163 101. ` 928 163 042. ∑ www.barcelo.com
Situated in a small cove, this complex has attractive apartments, all with
direct access to the beach. An ideal location for water sports and for
families with small children. μ z 0 h

C ORRALEJO : Club las Olas ¡ 250 ● ■

Avda. de Las Palmeras, s/n. § 928 536 299. ` 928 536 297.
Pleasant and spacious apartments in two-storey buildings that can
accommodate up to three persons. Each apartment includes kitchen,
lounge and bedroom. All apartments have balconies. μ ) 0 F

C ORRALEJO : Corralejo Beach Suite Hotel ¡¡ 79 ● ● ■

§ 928 867 464. ` 928 866 317. ∑ www.corralejobeach.com
A quiet, low-built hotel situated near the beach. Spacious and modern
apartments include terraces. The hotel offers a variety of entertainment to
its guests. μ ) 0 ÷ K

C ORRALEJO : Hesperia Bristol Playa ¡¡ 186 ● ■ ■

Urb. Lago de Bristol, 1. § 928 867 020. ` 928 866 349.
∑ www.hesperia-bristolplaya.com $ [email protected]
Modern apartments set among gardens provide a peaceful
environment for a restful holiday. )

C ORRALEJO : Dunapark ¡¡¡ 79 ● ■

C/General Franco, s/n. § 928 535 251. ` 928 535 491.
The hotel stands less than 50 m (55 yards) from the beach and is
surrounded by a colourful garden. Hotel buildings do not exceed
two storeys. μ z ) ∫ ÷ K F

C ORRELEJO : Riu Palace Tres Islas ¡¡¡¡ 365 ● ● ■

Avda. Grandes Playas. § 928 535 700. ` 928 535 858. ∑ www.riu.com
All the stylish double rooms have balconies overlooking dunes. Single
rooms have no ocean view. μ z ) 0 ÷
C OSTA C ALMA : Club Barlovento ¡¡¡¡ 255 ● ■ ■
§ 928 547 002. ` 928 547 038. $ [email protected]
The hotel stands near a yachting marina. μ z ) ÷ K 7h

C OSTA C ALMA : Risco del Gato ¡¡¡¡ 51 ● ■

§ 928 547 175. ` 928 547 030.
This luxury hotel, poised on a scenic escarpment, comprises strikingly
designed apartments, which are built into the cliff-face. It has an excellent
restaurant, serving local and international cuisine. μ z ) 0 ∫ ÷ K h

M ORRO J ABLE : Alta Marina ¡¡¡ 238 ● ■ ● ■

Avda. del Saladar, 28. § 928 540 430. ` 928 540 218.
Elegant rooms, furnished to a high standard. Buffet offers varied
and plentiful breakfasts. μ z ) 0 K 7
 W H E R E T O S T A Y 159

M ORRO J ABLE : Robinsón Club Jandía Playa ¡¡¡¡¡ 362 ● ● ■

Solana Matorral. § 928 169 100. ` 928 169 540. $ [email protected]
Situated right on the beach, the hotel is an ideal place for
indulging in various water sports.
μz)÷K7

L ANZAROTE
A RRECIFE : Lancelot ¡¡ 113 ● ■
Avda. Mancomunidad, 9. § 928 805 099. ` 928 805 039.
The hotel has direct access to the beach, where there is a safe shore, with
no eddies or currents. μ ) L K h

A RRECIFE : Miramar ¡¡ 85 ● ●
C/Coll, 2. § 928 801 522. ` 928 801 533.
A terrace situated on the hotel roof provides views over the ocean.
Clean and spacious rooms, modestly furnished. μ 0 7

C OSTA T EGUISE : Occidental Teguise Playa ¡¡¡ 314 ● ■ ● ■

Avda. Jablillo, s/n § 928 590 654. ` 928 590 979.
$ [email protected]
All rooms are of a good size and benefit from ocean views.
The hotel stands next to the beach.
μz)÷KF7

C OSTA T EGUISE : Gran Meliá Salinas – The Garden Village ¡¡¡¡ 285 ● ■ ● ■
Avda. Islas Canarias, s/n. § 928 590 040. ` 928 590 390.
$ [email protected]
A striking building with terraces descending towards the ocean. Some of its
architectural elements were designed by César Manrique and the hotel has
been declared a National Cultural Heritage Site.
μz)÷Kh

C OSTA T EGUISE : Occidental Alegro Oasis ¡¡¡¡¡ 372 ● ■ ● ■

Avda. del Mar, s/n. § 928 590 410. ` 928 590 791.
$ oasis@occidental hoteles.com
A modern, luxurious hotel standing on the coast with direct
access to the beach. Spacious and comfortable rooms.
μz)÷K7h

P LAYA B LANCA : Lanzarote Park ¡¡ 332 ● ■

Avda. Canarias, 5. § 928 517 048. ` 928 517 348.
The hotel offers a quiet, family atmosphere. Rooms feature modest
furnishings and have fully equipped bathrooms. μ ) ÷ K h

P LAYA B LANCA : Hesperia Playa Dorada ¡¡¡ 466 ● ● ■

Urb. Costa Papagayo, s/n. § 928 517 120. ` 928 517 432.
Modern hotel, standing on the beach, with fine ocean views. All rooms
have balconies. An extra bed can be provided on request.
μz)÷KF7h

P LAYA B LANCA : Lanzarote Princess ¡¡¡ 410 ● ■ ● ■

Maciot, s/n. § 928 517 108. ` 928 517 011. $ [email protected]
A four-storey building with three lifts, situated within a
luxurious hotel complex, with direct access to the beach.
μz)∫K7h

P UERTO DEL C ARMEN : Lanzarote Village ¡¡ 220 ● ■

Avda. de Suiza, 2. § 928 511 344. ` 928 512 030.
New hotel, with simple but elegant décor. Situated near the beach.
μz)÷7h

P UERTO DEL C ARMEN : Los Fariones ¡¡¡ 249 ● ■ ■

Roque del Este, 1. § 928 510 175. ` 928 510 175.
∑ www.grupofariones.com $ [email protected]
Los Fariones is a luxurious hotel, which stands on the coast in a
picturesque corner of town. Diving lessons and other water sports facilities
are available from the hotel. μ ) L K F
P UERTO DEL C ARMEN : La Geria ¡¡¡¡ 240 ● ■ ● ■
Júpiter, 5. § 928 510 441. ` 928 511 919. $ [email protected]
Spacious, double rooms, with third and fourth beds provided
on request. Diving lessons are offered on the hotel beach.
μz)LKF7h
For key to symbols see back flap
160 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

C REDIT C ARDS
Price categories for a standard Accepted credit cards include American Express,
double room per night including MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club.

C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMME
breakfast, service and tax.
C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMMES

V IEW
R OOMS
Hotel provides programmes for children and/or child-
¡ below 50 euros minding facilities.

S WIMMING P OOL
WITH A
¡¡ 50–100 euros

C REDIT C ARDS
R OOMS W ITH A V IEW
¡¡¡ 100–150 euros

OF
Hotel rooms have splendid views, including the ocean.
¡¡¡¡ 150–200 euros

N UMBER
S WIMMING P OOL

R OOMS
¡¡¡¡¡ over 200 euros. The hotel has a pool for the exclusive use of its guests.

Y AIZA : Finca de las Salinas ¡¡¡ 19 ■

C/La Cuesta, 17. § 928 830 325. ` 928 830 329.
$ [email protected]
Historic, 18th-century building. Rooms are furnished modestly
but tastefully, in rustic style. μ z ) 0 K

T ENERIFE
C OSTA A DEJE : Bouganville Playa ¡¡¡ 496 ● ■ ● ■
Urb. S. Eugenio – C/Eugenio Domínguez, 23. § 922 790 200. ` 922 794 173.
Modern hotel, on the coast. Guests can expect all the usual comforts.
μz)L÷K7

C OSTA A DEJE : Gran Tinerfe ¡¡¡ 1,100 ● ● ■

Avda. Rafael Puig Lluvina. § 922 791 200. ` 922 791 265. $ [email protected]
The hotel stands near the beach. Besides numerous entertainments,
gguests mayy enjoy
j y the local casino.
μz)LK7h

C OSTA A DEJE : Guayarmina Princess ¡¡¡ 513 ● ■ ■

Playa de Fañabe – C/Londres, 1. § 922 712 584. ` 922 712 000.
Luxurious hotel, standing in a beautiful garden. Its main decorative features
are white columns, set amid the greenery. μ z ) ÷ K F 7

C OSTA A DEJE : Torviscas Playa ¡¡¡¡ 482 ● ■ ● ■

Urb. Torviscas – Avda. Ernesto Sarti, 5. § 922 712 300. ` 922 713 155.
The hotel stands in one of the quietest corners of Costa Adeje. Modern
building, with garden and swimming pools. μ z ) K 7 h

C OSTA A DEJE : Gran Hotel Bahía del Duque Resort ¡¡¡¡¡ 482 ● ■ ● ■
Playa de Fañabe – C/Alcalde Walter Paetzmann, s/n. § 922 713 000,
922 746 900. ` 922 746 925, 922 712 616. ∑ www.bahia-duque.com
Strikingly beautiful hotel, set on a large site with separately designed
buildings in a variety of Mediterranean styles. Rooms are furnished in
Baroque style, with brown colour schemes. μ z ) 0 ÷ K 7 h ß
C OSTA A DEJE : Jardín Tropical ¡¡¡¡¡ 400 ● ■
C/Gran Bretaña, s/n. § 922 746 000. ` 922 746 060. ∑ www.jardin-tropical.com
An extremely striking hotel of Moorish design, set in spectacular gardens.
With several restaurants, the El Patio is particularly worthy of
recommendation. μ z ) 0 ÷ h

L A L AGUNA : Nivaria ¡¡ 76 ●
Plaza del Adelantado 11. § 922 264 298. ` 922 259 634. ∑ www.hotelnivaria.com
This elegant, classic hotel stands in the middle of town and offers both
rooms and apartments. μ ) 0 h

L A O ROTAVA : Parador de las Cañadas del Teide ¡¡¡ 37 ● ■

Ctra. Orotava – Teide, 43 km (27 miles). § 922 386 415. ` 922 382 352.
This fully refurbished hotel offers a quiet and restful atmosphere. Situated
in the National Park amid crater landscapes, it commands astonishing views
of the Teide peak and Los Roques. μ ) 0 ÷ h

L OS C RISTIANOS : Princesa Dacil ¡¡ 366 ● ■ ■

Juan Carlos I, s/n. § 922 753 030. ` 922 790 658.
High-rise hotel, close to the beach. Spacious rooms feature traditional décor.
μ)0K7h

L OS C RISTIANOS : Arona Gran Hotel ¡¡¡ 401 ● ● ■

Avda. Los Cristianos. § 922 750 678. ` 922 750 243. ∑ www.springhoteles.com
This hotel, situated on the beach with views over the old harbour in Los
Cristianos, is one of the most popular hotels in south Tenerife.
μz)0÷F
 W H E R E T O S T A Y 161

P LAYA DE LAS A MÉRICAS : Gala Tenerife ¡¡ 308 ● ■ ■

Avda. Litoral, s/n. § 922 794 513. ` 922 796 465. $ [email protected]
Modern hotel, with family atmosphere, situated 100 m (110 yards) from
the seafront. μ z ) ÷ F 7 h

P LAYA DE LAS A MÉRICAS : Bitácora ¡¡¡ 314 ● ■ ■

Arquitecto Gomez Cuesta, 3. § 922 791 540. ` 922 796 677.
∑ www.springhoteles.com
Situated in the best part of Playa de las Américas, near the shopping centre,
bars and nightclubs. Rooms are very large and comfortable. μ z ) K F 7
P LAYA DE LAS A MÉRICAS : Vulcano ¡¡¡ 371 ● ■
Avda. Domínguez Alfonso, 8. § 922 787 740. ` 922 792 853.
Hotel situated in a beautiful garden, 300 m (330 yards) from the ocean.
All rooms have furnished terraces. μ ) 7
P UERTO DE LA C RUZ : Atlantis ¡¡ 320 ● ■ ● ■
Avda. Venezuela, 15. § 922 374 545. ` 922 382 153. ∑ www.hap.es
$ [email protected]
The hotel stands 50 m (55 yards) from the beach. The management offers
interesting entertainment programmes. μ ) ÷ F 7
P UERTO DE LA C RUZ : Tigaiga ¡¡ 83 ● ■
C/Parque del Taoro, 28. § 922 383 500. ` 922 384 055. ∑ www.tigaiga.com
Four-storey hotel, with family atmosphere. μ z ) 0 K 7 h
P UERTO DE LA C RUZ : LTI – Chiripa Garden ¡¡¡ 192 ● ■ ■
Urb. San Fernando – C/Bélgica, 54. § 922 381 450. ` 922 380 893.
$ [email protected]
The hotel stands amid tropical gardens. Most rooms have a kitchen annexe.
μz)0Kh

P UERTO DE LA C RUZ : Botánico ¡¡¡¡ 252 ● ■ ■

C/Richard J. Yeoward, 1. § 922 381 400. ` 922 381 504.
∑ www.hotelbotanico.com $ [email protected]
This sumptuously furnished hotel offers immaculately designed gardens
and magnificent interiors, and excellent leisure facilities. The hotel
restaurant has a dress code. μ z ) L ÷ K 7 h
S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : El Dorado ¡¡ 49 ●
C/Cruz Verde, 24. § 922 243 184. ` 922 243 259.
This small, simply furnished hotel is clean and tidy and offers,
above all, good value for money. )
S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Taburiente ¡¡ 171 ● ■
C/Dr. José Naveiras, 24-A. § 922 276 000. ` 922 270 562.
$ [email protected]
The hotel stands in the town centre, close to Parque García Sanabra.
μz)L∫÷K7hß

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Escuela Hotel Santa Cruz ¡¡¡ 65

Avda. San Sebastián 152, Parque Viera y Clavijo. § 922 010 500.
` 922 010 501. $ reservas.ehscehecansa.com
Situated on the outskirts of town, this catering school hotel is a must for all
gourmets. It organizes popular gastronomic “weeks” and also holds its own
cookery competitions. μ ) 0
S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Sheraton Mencey ¡¡¡ 286 ● ■
Avda. José Naveiras, 38. § 922 609 900. ` 922 280 017.
∑ www.hotelmencey.com $ [email protected]
Situated in the centre of Santa Cruz, this luxurious hotel occupies a historic
building, typical of Canary architecture.
μ)∫K7h

L A G OMERA
H ERMIGUA : Ibo Alfaro ¡¡ 17 ●
§ 922 880 168. ` 922 881 019. This small hotel, opened in 1996, is
surrounded by a pleasant garden and terraces.
P LAYA S ANTIAGO : Jardín Tecina ¡¡¡ 434 ● ■ ■
Lomada de Tecina. § 922 145 850. ` 922 145 851. ∑ www.jardin-tecina.com
Standing in a magnificent garden, on a craggy shore of the ocean, this
hotel has access to the beach by lift. One of the best hotels on the island.
μz)÷K7h
For key to symbols see back flap
162 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

C REDIT C ARDS
Price categories for a standard Accepted credit cards include American Express,
double room per night including MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club.

C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMME
breakfast, service and tax.
C HILDREN ’ S P ROGRAMMES

V IEW
R OOMS
Hotel provides programmes for children and/or child-
¡ below 50 euros minding facilities.

S WIMMING P OOL
WITH A
¡¡ 50–100 euros

C REDIT C ARDS
R OOMS WITH A V IEW
¡¡¡ 100–150 euros

OF
Hotel rooms have splendid views, including the ocean.
¡¡¡¡ 150–200 euros

N UMBER
S WIMMING P OOL

R OOMS
¡¡¡¡¡ over 200 euros. The hotel has a pool for the exclusive use of its guests.

S AN S EBASTIÁN DE L A G OMERA : Hesperides ¡ 9

C/Ruiz de Padrón. § 922 871 305.
Small, clean and inexpensive hotel. It is worth booking early.
S AN S EBASTIÁN DE L A G OMERA : Villa Gomera ¡ 16
C/Ruiz de Padrón, 68. § 922 870 020. ` 922 870 235.
The hotel offers a good location and above average facilities. The price is a
bargain considering the standard. μ
S AN S EBASTIÁN DE LA G OMERA : Parador de la Gomera ¡¡¡ 60 ●
§ 922 871 100. ` 922 871 116. $ [email protected]
Although modern, with a swimming pool, this hotel has been designed as a
16th-century colonial house.
μ)0h

V ALLE G RAN R EY : Casa Bella Cabellos ¡¡ 5 ●

La Calera. § 922 805 182.
Casa rural in a Canary-style house surrounded with palms.
V ALLE G RAN R EY : Gran Rey ¡¡¡ 99 ● ■
La Puntilla. § 922 805 859. ` 922 805 651. ∑ www.hotel-granrey.com
The hotel stands near the beach and 500 m (550 yards) from a yachting
marina. Free use of hammocks and umbrellas. μ ) 0 K
V ALLEHERMOSO : Hotel Rural Tamahuche ¡¡ 10 ● ●
La Hoya, 20. § 922 801 176. ` 922 801 176. ∑ www.hoteltamahuche.com
This traditional house has been sympathetically renovated and its location,
near the Parque Nacional de Garajonay, makes it ideal for walkers and
nature lovers. Most rooms have either a terrace or balcony with views over
the old village of Vallehermoso. μ h
E L H IERRO
E L H IERRO
L A R ESTINGA : Kai Marino ¡ 7
§ 922 557 034. ` 922 557 034. $ [email protected]
Inexpensive hotel, in a scenic location. Depending on price, the rooms are
with bath, shower or washbasin. h
L AS P UNTAS : Apartamentos Roques Salmor ¡¡ 10
Ctra. Punta Grande, s/n. § 922 559 016. ` 922 559 401. $ [email protected]
Modest bungalows, surrounded by greenery, overlooking
the Roques de Salmor.
L AS P UNTAS : Puntagrande ¡¡ 4 ● ●
Las Puntas, 1. § 922 559 081. ` 922 559 081.
The world’s smallest hotel. Entered in the Guinness Book of Records, it has
just four rooms. Early booking necessary. ) h
S ABINOSA : Balneario Pozo La Salud ¡¡ 18 ● ● ■
Pozo La Salud. § 922 559 561. ` 922 559 801. ∑ www.el-meridiano.com
Sanatorium standing on an escarpment above the ocean. Nearby is the
water outlet flowing from the health-giving Pozo de la Salud. On offer is a
variety of health and beauty treatments. μ ÷ 7
V ALVERDE : Boomerang ¡¡ 17 ●
C/Dr. Gost, 1. § 922 550 200. ` 922 550 253.
A modest hotel in the town centre. It also has some bungalows
standing directly on the beach. μ ) 0
V ALVERDE : Casa Rural El Tesón I ¡¡ 2 ● ●
Calle Esquina Campo, 14, San Andrés. § 922 551 824. ` 922 550 575.
∑ www.ecoturismocanarias.com
This small country cottage with its organic vegetable garden and fruit trees is
ideal for walkers and nature lovers. Other cottages are available in the area.
 W H E R E T O S T A Y 163

V ALVERDE : Parador del Hierro ¡¡¡ 45 ● ■

Ctra. General Las Playas, 26. § 922 558 036. ` 922 558 086.
$ [email protected] ∑ www.parador.es
Situated in a quiet spot, right by the sea. The restaurant serves dishes
prepared from typical island produce. μ ) 0 7 h

L A P ALMA
B ARLOVENTO : La Palma Romántica ¡¡ 46 ● ■
Topo de Las Llanadas. § 922 186 221. ` 922 186 400.
∑ www.hotellapalmaromantica.com
Luxurious hotel in the Barlovento mountains. Large, comfortable rooms,
meticulously furnished. Excellent place for a quiet rest.
μz)0 ÷Khß

B RE π A BAJA: Apartamentos Costa Salinas H10 ¡¡ 140 ● ■ ■

Urb. Las Salinas – Playa de los Cancajos. § 922 434 348. ` 922 434 510.
$ [email protected]
Apartments situated a mere 300 m (330 yards) from the Los Cancajos beach
and 5 km (3 miles) from Santa Cruz de La Palma. Typical, smart centre
belonging to the H10 chain. μ z ) 0 ÷ K

B RE π A BAJA: Hacienda San Jorge ¡¡ 155 ● ■ ■

Playa de los Cancajos. § 922 181 066. ` 922 434 528. $ [email protected]
With lush gardens and stylish décor, this quiet hotel is 4 km (2 miles) from
the island’s capital. It has private access to the beach. μ ) 0 ÷ 7 h

B RE π A B AJA : Hotel Las Olas ¡¡ 182 ● ● ■

Playa de los Cancajos. § 922 434 052. ` 922 434 085. ∑ www.a-caledonia.com
This modern hotel complex has well-equipped apartments spread across
six buildings. Situated on the seafront, all its rooms have a terrace or
balcony with good views. μ ) 0 ÷ 7 h

B RE π A B AJA : Taburiente Playa ¡¡ 293 ● ■ ● ■

Urb. Las Salinas – Playa de los Cancajos. § 922 181 277. ` 922 181 285.
$ [email protected]
A hotel belonging to the popular H10 chain, situated on the front
line of the beach. All rooms are spacious and have a sea view.
μz)0÷KF7h

B RE π A B AJA : Parador de Breña Baja ¡¡¡ 78 ● ■

El Zumacal s/n. § 922 435 828. ` 922 435 999. $ [email protected]
Situated in the mountains with beautiful views. μ h 0 7

L OS L LANOS DE A RIDANE : Valle Aridane ¡ 42 ●

Glorieta Castillo Olivares, 3. § 922 462 600. ` 922 401 019.
∑ www.hotelvallearidane.com
A small hotel, overlooking the national park of La Caldera de Taburiente.
A good base from which to explore the island. μ z ) 0 h

L OS L LANOS DE A RIDANE : Amberes ¡¡ 7 ●

Avda. General Franco, 13. § 922 401 040. ` 922 402 441.
The hotel occupies a recently restored 17th-century building.
Its restaurant specializes in vegetarian dishes. μ ) 0 ß

P UERTO N AOS : Sol Élite La Palma ¡¡ 307 ● ■ ● ■

Punta del Pozo, 24. § 922 408 000. ` 922 408 014.
A modern hotel complex, situated next to a black-sand volcanic
beach, featuring all the modern facilities. It has a number of
apartments on offer to its guests. μ z ) 0 ÷ K 7 h

S ANTA C RUZ DE L A P ALMA : Castillete ¡¡ 42 ● ■

Avda. Marítima, 75. § 922 420 840. ` 922 420 067. $ [email protected]
∑ www.aparthotelcastillete.com
An inexpensive option for tourists not expecting excessive luxury.
Conveniently situated and clean. μ ) 0 7 h

T AZACORTE : Apartamentos Atlantis ¡ 23 ■

Mariano Benlliure, 14. § 922 406 146. ∑ www.atlantis-lapalma.com
A small hotel with pleasant apartments and large balconies. μ )
V ILLA DE M AZO : Arminda ¡¡ 5 ■
Lodero, 182. § 922 428 432.
The hotel occupies an old farmhouse. Rooms are decorated
in a rustic style. μ 7 h
For key to symbols see back flap
164 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

WHERE TO EAT
HE CANARY ISLANDS can Numerous restaurants offer

T offer a good selection of

restaurants, able to satisfy
the most discerning palates.
hybrid menus and many chefs
create sophisticated dishes by
experimenting with a range of
Traditional Canary cuisine local ingredients and various
is in plentiful supply, as are culinary traditions. Some of
dishes from other regions of these restaurants are highly
Spain. In addition, speciality Canarian
Decorative tiles in a
restaurant
regarded and very popular.
food, which includes German, The majority of Canary Island
French, Italian, Chinese, Arab and restaurants, however, are actually small
Indian cuisine, can easily be found to bars near beaches and tourist centres,
cater for the varied tastes of tourists. which cater for the fast-food market.
Canary dishes are quite easy
and quick to prepare. Most
types of fish and meat are
fried or roasted. They are
usually served with the local
mojo sauces, made of olive
oil, seasoning and herbs.
Local bars serve basic
raciones (portions), including
tortilla de patata (omelette
with potatoes), jamón
Serrano (Spanish ham), queso
(cheese) and many others.
Another option are the so-
A modest restaurant in one of El Golfo’s quiet streets called platos combinados –
inexpensive combinations of
W HERE TO E AT W HAT TO E AT basic dishes, including chips,
fried egg and cutlet. These
HE ISLANDS OFFERcountless ’ is the
HE ISLANDS CUISINE are large helpings, and
T bars and restaurants, with
diverse menus. The majority
T basic Mediterranean diet.
Ingredients include fish, meat,
usually competitively priced.
Also available are “single
of restaurants open for lunch rice, sweetcorn, potatoes, pot” courses. These consist
and dinner. Tourists and vegetables and tropical fruit. mainly of potatoes and
locals alike enjoy going to The most popular meats pulses, along with any
restaurants, which accounts are goat and lamb, although combination of meat, fish and
for the variety on offer, beef is also becoming vegetables.
including marisquería popular. Typical species of One should also not forget
(seafood) and cervecería (pubs). fish include dorada (sea bass) gofio. This roasted sweetcorn
There is no dress code in and pez espada (swordfish). flour can be added to
restaurants, apart from a very everything: soups,
few exclusive places that stews, desserts and
require evening dress. Apart even ice cream!
from the fast-food bars close
to the beaches, swimming W HEN TO E AT
costumes are not acceptable
in bars and restaurants. S WITH THE rest of
There are also fast-food
chains, local and foreign,
A Spain, mealtimes on
the Canary Islands have
including McDonald’s, Tele fairly irregular hours.
Pizza, Slow Boat (Chinese), Lunchtime (la comida)
Little Italy (pizza and pasta) is usually between 1pm
and Bocatta as well as cafés and 3pm, but restaurants
serving English-style breakfasts, that cater principally
fish and chips and pizzas. For for locals tend to have
the genuine article, visitors unusually late meal
will need to head inland, times. Regardless of the
away from the popular hour, however, having
resorts, where the majority of ordered a meal you are
authentic Canary restaurants generally allowed to
(típico) can be found. Lagomar restaurant, Lanzarote (see
( p171) finish it in peace.
 W H E R E T O E A T 165

cost up to 50 euros per head.

In other, provincial
restaurants, the same meal
could cost around 15 euros.
During lunch hours many
restaurants offer, besides ∫ la
carte dishes, an inexpensive
and tasty menu del día (menu
of the day). Such menus
always include a selection of
starters, main courses and
desserts, as well as bread and
often beverages (wine, beer
or soft drinks). The average
price of such a meal is from
4 to 10 euros.
Restaurants by the harbour in Puerto de Mogán Some more upmarket
restaurants also offer “taster”
Outside traditional mealtimes V EGETARIANS menus. The dishes from
it is always possible to eat these menus are much
in bars, which offer a wide LL RESTAURANTS OFFERsome more expensive, since they
variety of food. Beachside
restaurants are good for
A vegetarian dishes, but the
concept of a strictly meatless
include all of the specialities
recommended by the chef.
snacks any time of day. or fishless diet is not always
Dinner (cena) starts late, understood. It is wise to P AYING
at about 9pm. It is served in check before ordering
all restaurants until 11pm or whether vegetarian dishes LMOST ALL restaurants
midnight. After this, it is
generally only possible to buy
contain meat stocks or ham. A accept credit cards to pay
la cuenta (the bill). Even bars
sandwiches, kebabs or hot are willing to accept this form
dogs in small bars. of payment, if it is more than
Dinner in Spain is usually a a certain amount. You must,
hot meal. Like lunch, it may however, be prepared to pay
include two courses. During in cash in smaller restaurants,
dinnertime, the restaurants not oriented towards tourists.
offer only meals ∫ la carte. Also, bills of under 30 euros
Spaniards like to meet from are usually settled in cash. It
time to time for dinner, in is best to ask before ordering,
bars that serve tapas or if in doubt. Traveller’s cheques
raciones. When in a group are sometimes accepted.
it is fun to order a selection
of tapas and sample a little T IPPING
bit of each dish. Finca de las Salinas hotel
The Spanish breakfast restaurant in Yaiza (see p160) IPS ARE NOT obligatory and
(desayuno) tends to be a light
affair and usually consists P RICES
T may be left depending on
the quality of service. If the
only of coffee with milk and service was bad, then don’t
a sweet bun. An alternative islands’
RICES IN THE tip! Generally, tips are below
is toast with ham and cheese.
Many bars offer a set
P restaurants can vary
enormously. In smart,
ten per cent. As a rule, you
leave loose change or round
breakfast, generally including exclusive establishments a full up the bill. The IGIC tax is
coffee, natural orange juice meal, including wine, may included in the price.
and a snack. If you want a
bowl of breakfast cereal or a
fry-up you had better head
for a hotel restaurant.

B OOKING
HE LARGE NUMBER of
T restaurants on the islands
means that there are no
problems with finding a table.
Nevertheless, sometimes it is
worth booking in advance in
order to avoid disappointment,
particularly when you fancy
a specific restaurant. Restaurants lining the ocean boulevard in Playa de las Américas
166 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

What to Eat in the Canary I

’ , though
HE ISLANDS CUISINE
T influenced by mainland
Spain and Latin America, has
its own character and combines
elements of Guanche cooking
Goat’s cheese – with ingredients from the
a popular snack New World, including
bananas and sweetcorn.
Mojo, a pounded sauce that varies in its taste
and colour depending on whether it is made
with coriander or paprika, is used as a dip
with pretty much anything. Papas arrugadas j p j j p
( rinkl potatoes) are another local specialit

many types of meat, chickpeas, and colourful mixture of rice, vegetarian stew made with
potatoes and noodles, which chopped peppers, sweetcorn chickpeas, onion, tomatoes
are slowly stewed together. and tomatoes. and fried potatoes.

F RUIT
The mild climate of
the Canary Islands is
conducive to the
growth of numerous
varieties of fruit, and
locally grown fresh fr
is available all year ro
The most popular var
include Canary banan
prickly pears, papaya
pineapples. These ar
basis of many tasty d
 W H A T T O E A T 167

p f p f
fishcakes made of minced fish, most popular fish dishes. Fried with potatoes and vegetables.
coated with salty batter and morena is served with sauces Individual ingredients are
fried in oil. and papas arrugadas. served separately.

Carne de cabra en sa
typical Canary meat
Pieces of goat meat
stewed in a wine-ba
gravy, with added her
and seasoning. The di
may be served w
salad and pap
arrugad

Stewed pieces of
goat meat
j j ,
Stewed vegetables
appetizing stew made with
rabbit and tomatoes, is best
eaten with papas arrugadas. Mojo verde, made of oil,
coriander and garlic

D ESSERTS ama frita con mojo

The islands’ desserts are not erde is one of the
sophisticated but delicious slands’ typical fish
all the same. They consist dishes. Fried fish is
mainly of sweets made with erved with papas
gofio and a variety of fruit. rrugadas and
companied with sauce.
as arrugadas
eces of sama

R UM AND M ALVASÍA
The Canary Islands are famous for two types
of drinks – rum and Malvasía. Rum is
produced in several varieties. The
Gofio de almendras, a rich most typical is ron miel – mead
dessert made with almonds rum – which is made with
palm honey, and contains 35
per cent alcohol. There are
also several brands of wine
produced on the islands.
Once red wines from
Tenerife were famous. Today
Malvasía is more popular.
Produced on Lanzarote,
particularly sought-after
brands come from the Dark Canary Malvasía from
region of La Geria. rum Lanzarote
sugar, milk and almonds
168 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Restaurant
HE FOLLOWING RESTAURANTS have been chosen for their fine

T ERRACE
T

A IR C ONDITIONING
food, with particular emphasis on regional cuisine, as well

R EGIONAL C UISINE
as for the quality of their location and décor. Establishments

C REDIT C ARDS
are listed in the order in which the islands appear in the

OR

P ARKING
G ARDEN
guide, and then in alphabetical order according to location.
For more details on food and restaurants, see pages 164–167.

G RAN C ANARIA
A GAETE : Casa Pepe ¡ ■ ●
C/Alcalde Armas Galván, 5. § 928 898 227.
This restaurant prides itself on its variety of fish and shellfish dishes. It also
serves typical local papas arrugadas and mojos.
# Thu–Tue. ¢ 15–30 Oct.

A GAETE : Puerto Laguete ¡ ■ ● ■

Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, 9. § 928 554 001
This is an excellent place to sample typical Canary cuisine. # daily.

A GAETE : La Palmita ¡¡ ■ ● ■ ● ■
Ctra. de Las Nieves, s/n. § 928 898 704.
The restaurant specializes in fish and Canary cuisine. A dish particularly
recommended is the venison ∫ la espalada.
# 11am–11pm Wed–Mon.

A GÜIMES : La Farola ¡¡¡ ■ ● ■

Puerto de Arinaga. § 928 180 410.
Canary-style fresh fish dishes are the speciality in this charming restaurant.
¢ Sun evening & Mon. 7

A RGUINEGUIN : Que Tal ¡¡ ■

Centro Comercial Ancora, 27. § 928 151 487.
This contemporary restaurant serves a wide range of grilled fish and meats
and has an extensive wine list. # 11am–4pm & 6:30–11pm daily.

A RUCAS : Meson de la Montaña ¡¡¡ ■ ● ■ ● ■

Montaña de Arucas, s/n.§ 928 601 475.
One can find here Canary cuisine at its best. All the dishes are varied and
beautifully presented. # noon–midnight daily. 7

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Asturias ¡ ■ ■

C/Capitán Lucena, 6. § 928 274 219.
Situated in a maze of small streets near the beach, this restaurant
specializes in Asturian dishes. ¢ 1–15 Sep.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Chacalote ¡ ■ ● ■ ● ■

C/Proa, 3. § 928 312 140. $ [email protected]
With a décor that resembles a ship’s interior, this restaurant has a delightful
atmosphere. It serves good food, and the fish dishes are exceptional.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : La Cabaña Criolla ¡¡ ■ ■

C/Los Martínez de Escobar, 37. § 928 270 216.
Meat dishes are the speciality, and are prepared in a variety of ways.
Prices reflect the quality of the food. ¢ Mon.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : La Dolce Vita ¡¡ ■

C/Agustín Millares, 5. § 928 310 463.
This is an upmarket restaurant, serving authentic Italian food and wines.
# Mon–Sat. ¢ Jul.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : La Marinera ¡¡ ■ ● ■ ●

C/Alonso de Ojeda, s/n. § 928 461 555.
A full and varied selection of cuisine is on the menu, with the emphasis on
fresh ingredients. The fish dishes, cooked according to local recipes, are
particularly tasty. 7

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : El Novillo Precoz ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

C/Portugal, 9. § 928 221 659.
Situated near the beach, this restaurant serves delicious meat that has been
grilled on glowing embers. # Tue–Sun. ¢ 2 weeks in May & Aug.
 W H E R E T O E A T 169

C REDIT C ARDS
Price per person for a three- Eurocard, MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club all accepted.
course meal, including wine R EGIONAL C UISINE
and tax (without tip). Menu includes choice of Canary cuisine.

T ERRACE
¡ up to 15 euros

A IR C ONDITIONING
R EGIONAL C UISINE
A IR -C ONDITIONING
¡¡ 15–20 euros Restaurant with air-conditioning.

C REDIT C ARDS
¡¡¡ 20–25 euros G ARDEN T ERRACE

OR
OR
¡¡¡¡ 25–30 euros Meal can be served on a terrace, in a garden or courtyard.

P ARKING
G ARDEN
¡¡¡¡¡ over 30 euros. P ARKING
Restaurant has its own parking.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Mesón La Cuadra ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

C/General Mas de Gaminde 32. § 928 243 380.
Relish the tempting variety of tapas at the bar or choose from the “home-
grown menu”. The owner’s own farm produces many of the ingredients for
this restaurant. ¢ Mon.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : La Sama ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■ ● ■

C/Marina, 87. § 928 321 428.
This restaurant specializes in fish and seafood, which is always fresh
and well prepared.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Amaiur ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ■

C/Pérez Galdós, 2. § 928 370 717.
This is one of the town’s best restaurants, boasting a good selection of
wines and Basque cuisine at its best. # Mon–Sat. ¢ Aug.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Casa de Galicia ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

C/Salvador Cuyás, 8. § 928 279 855.
This restaurant gives you the choice of two settings to enjoy your meal as it
consists of two areas. At No. 8 is the Galician restaurant, serving the
traditional cuisine of that region. The Anexo restaurant, at No. 10,
specializes in rice dishes.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : El Cucharón ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■

C/Reloj, 2. § 928 333 296.
A smart restaurant, serving creative cuisine. All the dishes are sophisticated
and elaborately prepared. # Mon–Sat. ¢ Sat afternoon & 15 Aug–15 Sep.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Las Trébedes ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ■

Avda. José Mesa y López, 18. (El Corte Inglés). § 928 263 000.
International dishes and typical Canarian cuisine are on offer at this
restaurant. # Mon–Sat.

L AS P ALMAS DE G RAN C ANARIA : Portovigo ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

C/General Vives, 90. § 928 279 276.
Exclusive and sophisticated cuisine, inspired by Galician traditions.
# 1–4pm & 8–midnight Mon–Sat. ¢ Aug.

M ASPALOMAS : Chilis ¡¡ ■ ■
Avda. de Tenerife, 17. § 928 770 047.
A rich array of Mexican dishes are on offer in this bright and cheerful
restaurant, with a modern interior décor. Particularly recommended is the
spectacular flaming Mexican coffee. # 6pm–midnight. 7

M ASPALOMAS : El Portalón ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

Avda. Tirajana, 27. § 928 772 030. $ [email protected]
An excellent place for sampling a selection of Basque dishes, all of which
are splendidly prepared and served. 7 )

M ASPALOMAS : Orangerie ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

Hotel Palm Beach, Avenida Oasis. § 928 140 806.
A restaurant of creative and upmarket cuisine, which offers diners a choice
of eating indoors or outside. ¢ Thu, Sun, Jun & Jul.

M OG Á N : Acaymo ¡ ■ ● ● ■
El Tostador, 14. § 928 569 263. $ [email protected]
A restaurant specializing in traditional Canary cuisine, which includes fish
and meat dishes. # noon–11pm Tue–Sun. ¢ 15 Jun–15 Jul.

M OG Á N : Tu Casa ¡ ■ ● ■ ●
Avda. de las Artes, 18. § 928 565 078.
The secret of this restaurant’s success is its unfailingly fresh ingredients,
prepared by the chef. The dishes are based on Canary cuisine. )
For key to symbols see back flap
170 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

C REDIT C ARDS
Price per person for a three- Eurocard, MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club all accepted.
course meal, including wine R EGIONAL C UISINE
and tax (without tip). Menu includes choice of Canary cuisine.

T ERRACE
¡ up to 15 euros

A IR C ONDITIONING
R EGIONAL C UISINE
A IR C ONDITIONING
¡¡ 15–20 euros Restaurant with air conditioning.

C REDIT C ARDS
¡¡¡ 20–25 euros G ARDEN T ERRACE

OR
OR
¡¡¡¡ 25–30 euros Meal can be served on a terrace, in a garden or courtyard.

P ARKING
G ARDEN
¡¡¡¡¡ over 30 euros. P ARKING
Restaurant has its own parking.

S AN A GUSTÍN : Anno Domini ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Centro Comercial, local 82–85. § 928 762 915.
A comfortable and pleasant restaurant, specializing in French
and Italian cuisine. # 6:30pm–midnight Mon–Sat. ¢ 1 Oct–30 Apr.

S AN B ARTOLOMÉ DE T IRAJANA : Rias Bajas ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ■

Avda. Tirajana and Avda. EE.UU. § 928 764 033.
Galician regional restaurant, serving very tasty and well-prepared food.

S AN F ERNANDO : Mallorca ¡ ■ ■ ●
Avenida Tirajana, 24. § 928 770 516.
As the name suggests, the restaurant specializes in a variety of
dishes from Majorca.

S AN F ERNANDO : Casa Wences ¡¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Secundino Delgado. Ed. Jovimar. § 928 786 306.
Cantabrian regional cuisine serving traditional dishes, all of which are
splendidly prepared. # 12–4pm & 8–midnight. ¢ Mon.

S ANTA B RÍGIDA : Las Grutas de Artiles ¡¡ ■ ● ■

Las Meleguinas. § 928 640 575.
Set in caves, this restaurant has authentic Canary Island specialities on the
menu as well as a selection of grilled meat. There is a swimming pool and
garden, which makes it ideal for families.

S ANTA B RÍGIDA : Mano de Hierro ¡¡ ■ ● ■

Vuelta del Pino, 25. § 928 640 388.
Serving mainly traditional German cuisine, this restaurant also offers a
variety of international dishes. If this fails to tempt the taste buds, a
selection of local delicacies is also on the menu. ¢ Jul.

S ANTA B RÍGIDA : Satautey ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■ ●

Real de Coello, 2. Monte Lentiscal. § 928 010 421.
Excellent upmarket restaurant, situated in Santa Brigida hotel.
It specializes in local and international cuisine.

V EGA DE S AN M ATEO : La Veguetilla ¡¡¡ ■ ● ● ■

Ctra. General del Centro, 20. km. § 928 660 764.
Local and Spanish cuisine. # Wed–Mon.

V EGA DE S AN M ATEO : Cho-Zacarías ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ●

Avda. Tinamar, s/n. § 928 331 374.
Uniquely set in old farmers’ cottages, this delightful restaurant serves
Canary homemade dishes such as cherne (a local fish) in coriander sauce.
# 1–6pm & 8–midnight. 7

F UERTEVENTURA
B ETANCURIA : Valtarajal ¡ ■ ● ● ■
Roberto Roldán, 23. § 928 878 007.
This restaurant offers typical Canary cuisine in pleasant surroundings.
# 9am–5pm daily.

B ETANCURIA : Casa Santa Maria ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■ ●

Plaza de la Concepción, s/n. § 928 878 282.
The food is always prepared from fresh produce of the highest quality. The
restaurant offers painstakingly prepared dishes, inspired by traditional
Mediterranean cuisine. # 11am–6pm daily. 7

C ORRALEJO : La Marquesina ¡¡ ■ ● ■ ●
Muelle Chico. § 928 535 435.
Specializing in fish, prepared according to traditional recipes, this restaurant
also serves a variety of international dishes. # 11am–11pm daily.
 W H E R E T O E A T 171

C ORRALEJO : El Pescador ¡¡¡ ■ ●

Placita Félix Estévez, s/n. § 928 867 000.
Excellent international cuisine is served at this restaurant, with dishes
prepared from the finest ingredients.

C OSTA C ALMA : Don Quijote ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

Valle de los Mosquitos, 2. § 928 875 158.
The best dishes on offer here are definitely the roast suckling pig and roast
lamb, although other dishes are also worth a try. # noon–midnight daily.

J ANDIA -P AJARA : El Marinero Esquinzo ¡¡ ■ ● ■

Escanfraga, 2. § 928 544 075.
Smart restaurant, specializing in international cuisine. The dress code is
obligatory. # noon–10pm daily.

P UERTO DEL R OSARIO : Benjamin ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

C/León y Castillo 139. § 928 851 748.
Local produce is used almost exclusively for this traditional Castillian
restaurant, which serves authentic dishes such as potatoes with mojo (a
spicy sauce). Also to be recommended are the cheeses and desserts such as
a sorbet made from prickly pear. ¢ Sun & public holidays.

P UERTO DEL R OSARIO : La Casa del Jamón ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

La Asomada, 27 (junto al Aeropuerto viejo). § 928 530 064.
Resembling a traditional Spanish mesón, there is a mix of Basque and
regional dishes (including roast kid, Iberian cold meats and a variety of
delicious cheeses) at this family-run restaurant. # Tue–Sun. ¢ Sun night.

L ANZAROTE
A RRECIFE : Leito de Proa ¡¡ ■ ● ● ■
Avenue César Manrique. § 928 802 066.
Beautifully situated on a lagoon – El Charco (the puddle), this restaurant
serves tapas and full portions of typical Canary food.
# noon–4:30pm & 7–11pm. ¢ Sun.

A RRECIFE : A. Colon ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

C/Cactus, s/n. Playa del Cable. Ciudad Jardín.
§ 928 805 649. $ [email protected]
Decorated in a nautical style, this restaurant serves sophisticated and
expertly prepared dishes, including duck foie gras. Menu varies with the
seasons of the year. Also with an excellent wine list, this is far and away
the best restaurant on the island.
# Tue–Sun. ¢ 15 Aug–15 Sep. 7

C OSTA T EGUISE : Chu-Lin III ¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Centro Comercial Tandarena, local 8. § 928 592 011
As the name suggests, this is a Chinese restaurant, offering a surprisingly
good selection of wines. # 1pm–midnight daily.

C OSTA T EGUISE : La Jordana ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

Los Geranios, s/n. Centro Comercial Lanzarote Bay. § 928 590 328.
Simple, inexpensive, tasty fare, prepared using Mediterranean produce and
recipes. # Mon–Sat. ¢ Sep.

C OSTA T EGUISE : Neptuno ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Avda. del Jablillo, s/n. Centro Comercial Neptuno, local 6. § 928 590 378.
A restaurant serving mainly international cuisine, although the menu
includes a number of local specialities. # Mon–Sat. ¢ 10 Jun–20 Jul.

H ARÍA : Casa’l Cura ¡¡ ● ■

C/Nueva, 1. § 928 835 556. ` 928 821 442.
The Casa’l Cura is a reliable restaurant, offering a wide variety of dishes.
# noon–5pm daily.

N AZARET : Lagomar ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■

C/Los Loros, 6. § 928 845 665. ∑ www.lag-o-mar.com
The restaurant occupies a villa that was designed by César Manrique for
Omar Sharif. The talented chef uses only fresh produce.
# noon–midnight Tue–Sat, Sun noon–6pm.

P LAYA B LANCA : El Marisco Casa Brígida ¡ ■ ●

C/El Palangre, 1. § 928 517 385.
An inexpensive restaurant, serving delicious fish and seafood.
# Tue–Sun. ¢ 15 Jun–15 Jul.
For key to symbols see back flap
172 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

C REDIT C ARDS
Price per person for a three- Eurocard, MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club all accepted.
course meal, including wine R EGIONAL C UISINE
and tax (without tip). Menu includes choice of Canary cuisine.

T ERRACE
¡ up to 15 euros

A IR C ONDITIONING
R EGIONAL C UISINE
A IR C ONDITIONING
¡¡ 15–20 euros Restaurant with air conditioning.

C REDIT C ARDS
¡¡¡ 20–25 euros G ARDEN T ERRACE

OR
OR
¡¡¡¡ 25–30 euros Meal can be served on a terrace, in a garden or courtyard.

P ARKING
G ARDEN
¡¡¡¡¡ over 30 euros. P ARKING
Restaurant has its own parking.

P LAYA B LANCA : Almacén de la Sal ¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Marítimo, 20. § 928 517 885.
Occupying a former salt storehouse, this restaurant specializes in traditional
Spanish cuisine. ¢ Tue. )

P ARQUE N ACIONAL DE T IMANFAYA : El Diablo ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

§ 928 840 057.
The restaurant commands a magnificent view over the national park, the
volcanic rocks and the ocean. One of its curiosities is to prepare dishes on
a “volcanic grill”. # during park opening hours.

P UERTO DEL C ARMEN : O Botafumeiro ¡ ■ ■

C/Alemania, 9. Centro Comercial Costa Luz. § 928 511 503.
You can find genuine Galician cuisine at this restaurant. ¢ Tue.

P UERTO DEL C ARMEN : El Tomate ¡¡ ■ ■

C/Los Jameos. § 928 511 985.
Popular, well-established restaurant serving international cuisine in bright,
modern surroundings. # 7:30–10:30 pm.

P UERTO DEL C ARMEN : El Asador ¡¡¡ ■

Avenida del Varadero, s/n. § 928 515 821. $ [email protected]
This carvery serves Segovian specialities like suckling pig. # 5–11:30pm.

P UERTO DEL C ARMEN : La Cañada ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■ ●

C/César Manrique, 3. § 928 512 108.
It is definitely worth a visit to this typical Canary restaurant, which
serves excellently prepared food. # 12:30pm–midnight Mon–Sat. 7

T EGUISE : Ikarus ¡ ■ ■ ●
Plaza 18 de Julio, s/n. § 928 845 332.
A restaurant serving excellent international cuisine, with prices that reflect
the quality of the food. # 9am–10:30pm Tue–Sun. ¢ Sun and Jul.

Y AIZA : La Era ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■ ● ■

El Barranco, 3. Trasera del Ayuntamiento. § 928 830 016. $ [email protected].
Occupying a historic building, this restaurant is decorated in a rustic style
and provides traditional Canary cuisine. # 1pm–11pm. ¢ Mon.

T ENERIFE
A DEJE : La Vieja ¡¡¡¡ ■ ●
Avda. las Gaviotas, 10, La Caleta. § 922 711 548.
Seafood is the speciality at this bright and modern oceanfront restaurant
with panoramic views of La Caleta bay and La Gomera. # 12:30–11pm.

A RONA : El Asador de Pedro ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

Ctra. Gral. del Sur, 35, La Camella. § 922 720 464.
The food and service are exemplary at this high-class restaurant. Traditional
Castillian dishes. # 1–4pm & 8–11:30pm Tue–Sun. ¢ Sun evenings & Mon.

A RONA : Mesón Las Rejas ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

Ctra. General del Sur, 31. § 922 720 894. ∑ www.mesonlasrejas.com
This restaurant specializes in roast-meat dishes. # Mon–Sat. ¢ Jul.

B UENAVISTA : El Burgado ¡¡ ■ ● ■ ●
Avenida Playa de las Arenas s/n. § 922 127 831.
Sample fresh fish and Canary desserts on the terrace of this seaside restaurant.
C ANDELARIA : El Archete ¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■
Aroba, 2. § 922 500 115.
The order of the day at this restaurant is to provide exquisite food, based
on traditional Canary cuisine. # Mon–Sat. ¢ 1–15 Oct. 7
 W H E R E T O E A T 173

E L S AUZAL : Casa Del Vino ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ● ■

Autopista del Norte, 21. km. La Baranda. § 922 563 886. $ [email protected]
A good selection of modern Canary dishes, which are yet based on
traditional ingredients and recipes. # Tue–Sun. ¢ Sun evenings & Mon.

L A L AGUNA : L’Amuse Bouche ¡¡¡¡ ■

C/Santo Domingo, 26. § 922 633 916.
This restaurant specializes in French cuisine, and its interior evokes the
atmosphere of an authentic French eatery. ¢ Sun & Mon.

L A M ATANZA : Casa Juan ¡¡¡ ■ ● ■

C/Acentejo, 77. § 922 577 012.
The emphasis is on German food, but the restaurant also serves
international cuisine. # Tue–Sat. ¢ 15 Apr–15 May. 7 ß

L OS R EALEJOS : La Finca ¡¡¡¡ ■

El Monturio, 12. § 922 362 143. $ [email protected]
Inspired by North-European cuisine, this restaurant serves excellent food,
which is exquisitely prepared and presented. # Mon–Sat. ¢ Jul. 7

P UERTO DE LA C RUZ : La Gañania ¡¡¡ ■ ● ■

Camino del Durazno, s/n. § 922 371 000.
This restaurant offers various dishes, ranging from local Canary food to
international cuisine, not forgetting traditional Spanish dishes.
# Tue–Sat. 7 ß

P UERTO DE LA C RUZ : Magnolia ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Avda. Marqués de Villanueva del Prado. § 922 385 614.
Catalonian regional cuisine, combining produce typical of the coastal and
mountain regions, so providing something a little different. ¢ Tue. 7

P UERTO S ANTIAGO : Pancho ¡¡¡ ■ ● ●

C/Playa de la Arena. § 922 861 323.
Traditional Canarian and Spanish cuisine with a twist is served at this
beachside restaurant with a tree-shaded terrace. # 9am–1pm & 8–11pm. ¢ Jun.

S AN I SIDRO : Bodega el Jable ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■

Bentejüi, 9. § 922 390 698. $ [email protected]
Excellent local cuisine, including all the most popular dishes.
# Mon–Sat. ¢ Mon lunchtime.

S AN J UAN DE LA R AMBLA : Las Aguas ¡¡¡ ■ ●

La Destila, 20. § 922 360 428.
The restaurant offers typical homemade Spanish food, exquisitely prepared.
¢ Mon. ß

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Cofradía de Pescadores ¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

Playa de Teresitas. § 922 549 024.
One of the best places in town, which specializes in fish. # daily.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Da Gigi ¡¡ ■ ●

Avda. de Anaga, 43. § 922 284 607.
Italian restaurant, serving a wide variety of pasta and other Italian dishes.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : La Hierbita ¡¡ ■ ● ■

El Clavel, 19. § 922 244 617.
Traditional local dishes based on regional products and excellent local
wines, served in a family atmosphere. ¢ Sun.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Marisquería de Ramón ¡¡ ■

C/Dique 23. § 922 549 308.
An inexpensive place, where you can try fresh seafood and fish.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Viva México ¡¡¡ ■ ■ ■

C/Santa Clara, 8. § 922 296 088.
A wide selection of Mexican cuisine. ¢ Sun & Mon.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : El Líbano ¡¡¡ ■ ■ ■

C/Santiago Cuadrado, 36. § 922 285 914.
A perfect opportunity to try Middle Eastern cuisine. The menu
includes the most typical and traditional Arabian dishes.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : La Cazuela ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ●

C/Robayna, 34. § 922 272 300.
Creative cuisine, inspired by Mediterranean traditions. # Mon–Sat.
For key to symbols see back flap
174 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

C REDIT C ARDS
Price per person for a three- Eurocard, MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club all accepted.
course meal, including wine R EGIONAL C UISINE
and tax (without tip). Menu includes choice of Canary cuisine.

T ERRACE
¡ up to 15 euros

A IR C ONDITIONING
R EGIONAL C UISINE
A IR C ONDITIONING
¡¡ 15–20 euros Restaurant with air conditioning.

C REDIT C ARDS
¡¡¡ 20–25 euros G ARDEN T ERRACE

OR
OR
¡¡¡¡ 25–30 euros Meal can be served on a terrace, in a garden or courtyard.

P ARKING
G ARDEN
¡¡¡¡¡ over 30 euros. P ARKING
Restaurant has its own parking.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Mesón Castellano ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■

C/Callao de Lima, 4. § 922 271 074.
An excellent restaurant, specializing in Castilian cuisine. The marvellous
meat dishes are particularly recommended. ¢ Sun.

S ANTA C RUZ DE T ENERIFE : Los Menceyes ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

Avda. Dr. José Naveiras, 38. § 922 609 900. $ [email protected]
An excellent restaurant, situated in the luxury Mencey Hotel,
belonging to the Sheraton chain. The sophisticated dishes are
based on traditional Spanish cuisine. 7

S ANTIAGO DEL T EIDE : Pancho ¡¡¡ ■ ● ●

Playa de la Arena, s/n. § 922 861 323. $ [email protected]
Exquisite Canary cuisine, which is both sophisticated and well prepared.
All dishes are attractively presented. ¢ Mon.

T ACORONTE : Los Limoneros ¡¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

Ctra. General del Norte, 15.5 km. Los Naranjeros. § 922 636 637.
International cuisine, with Spanish and Canary accents, and excellent
seafood. # 1pm–11pm Mon–Sat. ¢ 15 days in Aug. 7

L A G OMERA
P LAYA DE S ANTIAGO : Avenida ¡¡¡ ■ ●
Avda Marítima, Playa de Santiago. § 922 895 498.
This restaurant has a particularly varied menu and is popular with tourists.
Tasty dishes include fish and homemade pizza.

P LAYA DE S ANTIAGO : El Laurel ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

Lomada de Tecina. § 922 145 850.
Belonging to the Jardin Tecina hotel chain, this restaurant offers creative
cuisine, based on traditional local recipes and a standard of service that
you might expect. # 7pm–10pm daily.

P LAYA DE S ANTIAGO : Playa ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Avda. Marítima. § 922 895 147.
Typical seaside restaurant, offering mainly freshly caught fish.

S AN S EBASTIÁN DE L A G OMERA : Casa del Mar ¡ ■ ■

Avda. Fred Olsen 2. § 922 870 320.
Family-style restaurant close to the harbour, serving simple seafood dishes.
¢ Tue.

S AN S EBASTIÁN DE L A G OMERA : El Pajar ¡ ■ ●

C/Ruiz de Padrón, 26. § 922 870 355.
Excellent and inexpensive restaurant, serving mainly local cuisine.

S AN S EBASTIÁN DE L A G OMERA : Mesón el Pejín ¡ ■ ● ■

Calle Real, s/n. § 922 870 033.
This restaurant serves a particularly varied menu. The beautifully prepared
fish and seafood dishes are especially good.

S AN S EBASTIÁN DE L A G OMERA : El Charcón ¡¡ ■ ● ●

Playa de la Cueva, s/n. § 922 141 898.
Located on the beach, this cave-like restaurant with great views of the sea
serves traditional and creative local dishes. # 1–4pm & 7–10:30pm.
¢ Sun & Mon.

S AN S EBASTIÁN DE L A G OMERA : Hotel Parador de la Gomera ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■ ● ■

Llano de la Horca, 1. § 922 871 100.
The restaurant is situated in a smart parador.
r As is the case with most of
the state-run hotels, its décor and menu reflect the local traditions.
Particularly worth recommending are the fish dishes.
 W H E R E T O E A T 175

V ALLE DEL G RAN R EY : El Palmarejo ¡¡ ■ ● ■ ●

Ctra. Gral. de Arure, s/n. § 922 805 868.
The food on offer represents Canary Island cuisine, although
the menu also includes a number of international dishes.

E L H IERRO
E CHEDO : La Higuera de Abuela ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ●
Tajiniscoba, s/n. § 922 551 026.
Simple, traditional Canary Island cuisine is served here, with a good
selection of local wines. # Wed–Mon . )

L A R ESTINGA : Casa Juan ¡ ■ ●

Juan Gutiérrez Monteverde, 23. § 922 557 102.
The Casa Juan offers a wide selection of simple and tasty fish dishes.
All the food is prepared using freshly caught fish. ¢ Wed.

L AS P LAYAS : Parador del Hierro ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ■

§ 922 558 036.
A parador restaurant, serving local and Spanish food. The cheese
soup is particularly delicious.

V ALVERDE : Mirador de la Peña ¡ ■ ● ■

Ctra. de Guarazoca, 40. § 922 550 300. $ [email protected]
One of the Hacensa chain of training restaurants, which
organizes catering weeks, competitions and courses. There’s nothing
unprofessional about the food here though. # Tue–Sun.

L A P ALMA
B ARLOVENTO : La Palma Romántica ¡¡¡ ■ ● ■
Ctra. Gral. Las Llanadas, s/n. § 922 186 221.
The restaurant is situated in the hotel of the same name. It offers
a wide choice of dishes, ranging from Canary through Spanish, to
international cuisine. 7

B RE π A A LTA : Las Tres Chimeneas ¡ ■ ■

C/Buenavista de Arriba, 82. § 922 429 470.
A pleasant restaurant, offering food based on traditional island cuisine.
# Wed–Mon. ¢ Mon night & 19 Aug–25 Sep.

B RE π A B AJA : La Fontana ¡¡ ■ ■ ●
Los Cancajos. § 922 434 729.
Next to the beach, the restaurant offers excellent meat and fish dishes.

E L P ASO : Franchipani ¡¡¡ ■ ■ ●

Ctra. General Empalma Dos Pinos, 57. § 922 402 305.
Fresh produce is used to create dishes with an international flavour at this
German-owned restaurant. # 1–10:30pm Sat–Wed.

G ARAFÍA : El Bernegal ¡ ■ ● ■
C/Díaz y Suárez, 5. § 922 400 480.
This restaurant serves excellent home-cooked Canary and Spanish
cuisine, and it also has a good range of vegetarian dishes.
# noon–5pm Tue–Sun. ¢ Mon & Jun.

L OS L LANOS DE A RIDANE : La Casona de Argual ¡¡¡¡ ■ ● ■

Plaza Sotomayor, 6. § 922 401 816. ` 922 401 816.
$ [email protected]
A smart restaurant with a unique atmosphere, serving sophisticated
dishes of international and French cuisine. # Fri–Wed. ¢ 3 weeks in Jun.

L OS L LANOS DE A RIDANE : San Petronio ¡¡¡¡ ■ ■ ● ■

C/Pino de Santiago, 40. § 922 462 403.
A good Italian restaurant. ¢ Sun & Mon.

S ANTA C RUZ DE L A P ALMA : Pizzeria Alameda ¡¡ ■ ■ ●

C/Pérez Camacho, 3. § 922 420 865.
This restaurant offers a wide selection of dishes, from both Italian and
Canary cuisine.

T AZACORTE : Playa Mont ¡ ■ ● ● ■

El Puerto, s/n. § 922 480 443.
This restaurant specializes in fresh fish, prepared Canary style.
# Fri–Wed. ¢ Jul. 7
For key to symbols see back flap
176 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

SHOPPING IN THE
CANARY ISLANDS
WITH SPAIN ’ S
other region ndicraft products, embroidery

A the Canary Islands boast

their own culinary
specialities. Many tourists buy
and lace, leather goods and
pottery, are likewise snapped
up as mementos. Some visitors
local delicacies including notice a price difference – a
goat’s cheese, rum, wine, palm remnant of the days when the
mead and the delicious mojo islands were a duty-free zone.
(ready-made sauce). Potted Label for Products such as alcohol,
plants have also recently Malvasía wine cigarettes, perfumes, sunglasses
become popular presents from and electronic equipment are
the islands. These may even include generally cheaper than in mainland
small banana trees, palms and dragon Europe and are among the most easily
trees. Other souvenirs, such as purchased items.
shops, selling souvenirs and shops, particularly food stores
handicraft items. Here, too, in tourist centres, are open
haggling over the price is non-stop, until late at night.
almost expected. The local Most smaller shops and
shops in smaller towns and boutiques do not have such
villages are worth checking regular opening hours and
out, particularly when may close without warning.
shopping for food, as they Also, afternoon closing hours
may sell products that do not are not fixed. In small towns
reach larger towns. and villages, where the pace
Those wishing to buy of life is slower, siesta
local handicraft products breaks are longer, and
can try buying directly shops may close earlier.
from the local artists, at
lower prices than at H OW TO P AY
the seaside shops.
OST SHOPSaccept
Entrance to the shopping centre
at Playa de las Américas
O PENING H OURS
Traditionally
M major credit
cards. The most
ARGE shopping decorated pot popular are Visa and
W HERE TO B UY L centres in big
towns are generally
from La Orotava MasterCard. When
shopping in small
HERE ARE MANY shopping open from 9am until 9pm provincial shops and bazaars,
T centres in large towns
and around resorts. They
Monday to Saturday. Some of you should bear in mind that
the smaller ones may close credit cards may be of no
offer practically every for siesta, i.e. between 2pm use. When venturing outside
essential food product and and 5pm and then stay open large towns it is best to carry
manufactured item, and are for another few hours. Many a certain amount of cash.
less imposing than the
megastores you find in Spain
and elsewhere. They often
include bars and restaurants.
Apart from the large
department stores, the
resorts have many small
shops, offering souvenirs,
clothes and cosmetics. They
can be found along the
main streets and seafront
boulevards. There are many
electronic equipment shops
too. Fixed prices are not set
in stone on the islands and it
is well worth haggling. Just as
numerous as the electronic
shops are the artesanía African carvings on sale at Teguise market
 S H O P P I N G 177

M ARKETS AND B AZAARS

ARKETS AND BAZAARS are an
M inherent feature of the
Canary Islands’ scenery.
Markets are held at regular
intervals in small towns and
generally serve the local
population. The articles on
offer include food and items
of everyday use (at home and
on the farm). Prices are usually
low; the olives and cheeses
are exceptionally tasty.
Bazaars are organized in
larger towns, with tourists
in mind. They sell mainly
handicraft products and island
souvenirs. Prices are relatively Stalls at a weekly bazaar in Puerto de Mogán
high, but you can always
haggle. A number of the typical of the first inhabitants buy locally made cheese.
bigger towns also have flea of the islands. Here, preference is given to
markets once a week, Popular among textiles are neighbours, with tourists only
which can sometimes be embroidery, woollen hand- being offered the surplus.
a good place to pick up woven cloths and lace. Many Popular among alcoholic
a curiosity. shops offer textile beverages are rum and its
In Gran Canaria and products such as mead version – ron miel – as
Lanzarote, the bazaar tablecloths, shawls and well as Malvasía (see p167).
vendors include African napkins, which can also Other wines have not gained
traders. They sell goods be found in bazaars. such recognition with the
that have nothing to do Some shops have their Spaniards, although the locals
with the islands, but are own workshops, where are very keen on wines made
attractive and eye- you can see the on Tenerife and Lanzarote.
catching nevertheless. products being made. Another speciality is palm
Those interested in mead, known as guarapo,
A RT AND A jar of ethnography can take from La Gomera. It is made
H ANDICRAFTS palm honey home the traditional from palm juice, thickened
folk costume. through boiling.
MONG THE MOST popular Many tourists like to take
A island handicraft products
has been the Canary knife
F OOD AND D RINK home Canarian sauces –
mojos. There are several types
(Cuchillo Canario).
o It is not OAT’S CHEESE IS one of the of them and they can be
advisable to purchase these,
however, as increased airport
G traditional Canary food
items. The best known are
found in every supermarket.
The Canary Islands are also
security means you may not majorero, from Fuerteventura, famous for the production of
be able to take them home. and herre, from El Hierro. In puros palmeros – cigars from
The most popular product small villages you can often La Palma. Although not as
made of wood is undoubtedly well known as the
the timple – a kind of ukulele. Havana cigars, they
It is also worth taking a look are nevertheless highly
at other products made of valued for their
wood, such as small boxes, flavour and are even
bowls and smoking pipes. purchased for the
Wooden castanets are an Royal Court in Madrid.
especially popular souvenir. Supermarkets are
Wickerwork is also worth often the best place
seeking out. Traditional to buy food. They
woven baskets and other offer a wide variety, at
knick-knacks are on sale moderate prices.
virtually everywhere. Another popular
Ceramic items on sale are gift item is flowers,
often based on traditional especially estrelitsia,
Guanche designs. They the bird-of-paradise
include statuettes, beads and plant. You can buy
countless vessels, including them on departure
bowls, pots, jugs and vases. ready-packed, from
They are often decorated in a flower shop or at
traditional geometric patterns, Main shopping precinct in Las Palmas the airport.
178 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

ENTERTAINMENT
IN THE CANARY ISLANDS
HE CANARY ISLANDS offer evidence. A wide variety of

T seemingly endless forms

of entertainment to
tempt tourists. There are
holiday entertainment is also on
offer. The islands feature many
small parks and botanical
plenty of demonstrations of gardens, with tropical plants
traditional skill on offer, from and wild animals. A trip in a
Spanish and local dancing, to Logo of Parque glass-bottomed boat to see the
the old custom of lucha Las Aguilas marine fauna, including dolphins
canaria – wrestling. Typical and whales, is a memorable
modern attractions, including bars, experience, while the many water-parks,
nightclubs, casinos, cinemas, theatres with their slides and splash pools, will
and concerts, are likewise much in have children squealing with delight.
the islands. Bars and submarine trips. There
(tabernas) are open are also dolphin and whale-
all day, serving mostly watching trips (prices usually
beer and wine as well include lunch on board).
as snacks. This is often For the benefit of younger
the first stop before guests, the islands have
the evening “ruta”, developed numerous water-
where you can have parks with merry-go-rounds,
a drink and a quiet slides and swimming pools.
conversation. They Gardens such as Palmitos
close around 1am. Parque and Loro Parque
Pubs (cervecerías) stage parrot and dolphin
provide more typical shows, specifically aimed at
evening entertainment. children. Another fun way to
They also serve spend the day is to take one
Casino in Santa Catalina hotel alcohol, but wine is not of the numerous safaris over
very common. The wilderness areas, on camel-
I NFORMATION music is loud, and those back or by jeep.
wishing to dance can do so.
NFORMATION regarding Discos open late and close T HEATRE AND C INEMA
Imaycultural events and concerts
often be found in the
around 5am. They become
crowded around 1am, or T IS ONLY the large towns
local press, which advertises
them some days in advance.
later, when other places close. Iandthatconcert
have cinemas, theatres
halls. New films
Keep your eyes peeled, too, D AYTIME come to the screen with
as many interesting events E NTERTAINMENT minimum delay. However,
are advertised on street films are usually dubbed
posters. Other good sources URING THE DAYS the (except for a few cinemas) and
of information are hotel
reception foyers and tourist
D entertainment on offer
includes glass-bottomed boat
therefore incomprehensible to
non-Spanish speakers.
information centres.

N IGHTLIFE
vast selection of
HERE IS A
T nightclubs. Discos, pubs,
bars, karaoke bars and
casinos tempt visitors with
their neon signs and music.
The resort areas on the
islands have severe night-time
noise level restrictions in
place, but this has done little
to curb the number of pubs,
clubs and bars.
There is a basic difference
between bars and pubs on Trained sea-lion show in Loro Parque on Tenerife
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T 179

compared to the
famous carnival in D IRECTORY
Rio de Janeiro.
The theatre T HEATRES
festival in Agüimes
on Gran Canaria is Teatro Pérez Galdós
the only one of its Plaza Stagno, s/n.
kind in Spain. This Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
prestigious event is § 928 339 230.
held in September ∑ www.teatroperezgaldos.es
and it attracts a wide
Las Palmas Film Festival range of theatre Teatro Guimerá
groups from Europe, Marco Redondo, 2.
M USIC AND C ONCERTS Latin America and Africa. Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
The film festival held on § 922 606 265.
HE BIGGEST MUSICAL event Gran Canaria (Oct/Nov, every
T on the islands is the
annual Womad concert. This
two years) includes works
of international cinema, with
Teatro Casa de la Cultura
C/Comodoro Rolin, 1.
ethnic music extravaganza is special emphasis placed Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
organized by on European, § 922 202 202.
former Genesis African and Latin
band member, American movies. C ONCERT H ALLS
Peter Gabriel, in One category is
Las Palmas de reserved for Auditorio Alfredo Kraus
Gran Canaria. Canary films, or Avda. Principe de Asturias, s/n.
Gran Canaria is films thematically Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
also the venue linked with the § 928 491 770.
of Atlantida – a archipelago. ∑ www.auditorio-alfredokraus.
lively annual pop com
music concert that FIESTAS
takes place in Tiles commemorating Auditorio
February on Playa the 1981 carnival S A RULE, the “Teobaldo Power”
del Inglés.
Fans of jazz music can
A religious
festivals are an opportunity
C/Calvario, La Orotava.
§ 922 330 224.
enjoy the International for the islanders to let their
Canarias Jazz & Heineken hair down. The central Auditorio de Puerto
festival. It is organized each activity of most fiestas is the del Rosario
year, with concerts held on statue-carrying processions Puerto del Rosario.
all the islands, except La but they may also include § 928 532 186.
Gomera and El Hierro. fancy-dress parades and street ∑ www.auditorio.puertorosario.net
Lovers of classical music decorations. Fiestas can easily
can visit the concert halls in last several days, during Auditorio de Tenerife
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria which time town life comes Parque Maritima, Santa Cruz de
and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. to a virtual halt: all public Tenerife.
At the end of January and places, including shops, bars § 922 568 600.
the beginning of February and restaurants, are closed.
there is a classical music
festival. Concerts are held in
the Auditorium Alfredo
Kraus in Las Palmas de Gran
Canaria, and Teatro Guimerá
in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, as
well as on other islands.
Hotels often organize their
own concerts and shows of
flamenco dancing, as well as
Spanish and local folk dances.
These shows are very popular
with tourists.

F ESTIVALS
-
HE BEST KNOWN event on
T the Canary Islands is, of
course, the carnival
(Feb/Mar). The biggest and
wildest one, held in Santa
Cruz de Tenerife, is often Folk dancers on Gran Canaria
180 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
ECAUSE OF THEIR superb climate, of the world’s best beaches for

B the Canary Islands are an

excellent place for all types of
sport. Visitors seeking to combine
windsurfing. The coastal waters are
considered some of the most
attractive diving sites. Tenerife and
lounging on the beach with the remaining islands offer excellent
something more strenuous can conditions for paragliding and
come here at any time of the year, hang-gliding. Anyone interested in
sure to find professional help and golf, tennis, horse riding, hiking
guidance. The most popular are, or cycling will also find plenty of
of course, water sports. Pozo Windsurfer on opportunities to indulge in their
Izquierdo on Gran Canaria is one Fuerteventura favourite pastimes.

make sure to bring warm

clothing and do not forget to
pack sunscreen, water and
something to eat.

G OLF
OLF COURSES CANbe found
G on Gran Canaria, La
Gomera, Lanzarote, Tenerife
and Fuerteventura. The best
known are the Maspalomas
Golf Club on Gran Canaria
and Golf del Sur on Tenerife.
Caldera de Bandama golf course on Gran Canaria Real Club de Golf de Las
Palmas, founded in 1891, is
J OGGING obligatory rules and one of the oldest golf clubs
restrictions. Walking trips outside Britain.
HERE ARE EXCELLENT around the islands are often The mild climate makes it
T conditions for running.
Seaside promenades and
the best method of exploring.
The routes are not too
possible to play the game all
year round. Most clubs offer
sandy beaches, such as the difficult or arduous, though equipment hire, beginners’
ones on Fuerteventura, are most footpaths are rocky. courses and great conditions
ideal places for burning off Many routes lead over high for more advanced players.
the calories. ground along mountain
In the rugged central ridges. Temperatures here T ENNIS
regions of the islands, small can be low, even in the
villages offer less favourable summer when the sun’s rays OOD QUALITY TENNIS courts,
conditions for jogging. The
best times to take a run are
still do not generate much
heat. You should always
G some of them floodlit,
can be found in the grounds
mornings and evenings, when of many hotels
temperatures are lower and and apartments.
the crowds thinner. These can often
be hired out, even
H IKING if you are not a
resident. Instructors
HE ISLANDS, with their and equipment hire
T pleasant climate, diverse
landscape and numerous
are easy to organize.
More information
national parks and nature about holidays
reserves, present many combined with
opportunities for hikers. tennis lessons can
Tourist offices on all the be obtained from
islands can offer advice the Real Federación
as to the best walking trails. Española de Tenis.
The national park areas, Those longing for
including Garajonay on La a game of squash
Gomera, are particularly will also find
attractive and feature many appropriate facilities,
marked trails, but walkers mainly within the
should bear in mind the Hikers on La Gomera hotel complexes.
 O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S 181

H ORSE R IDING are usually combined with

fishing harbours.
HERE ARE SEVERAL riding Conditions for sailing are
T centres on the islands,
offering facilities for
good the whole year through,
and you can charter a yacht
beginners as well as for or catamaran for a day or
advanced riders. longer, provided you have
In the main, however, the the relevant qualifications.
islands do not offer attractive Those who do not can go on
riding opportunities. The a cruise. These, too, can last a
rocky and uneven terrain and day or longer. Many of the
the hard surfaces mean that cruises offer food, and even
there is a lack of routes drink, as part of the price.
suitable for galloping. The Everybody has the chance
latter can only be done on to learn the basic skills of
some sandy beaches. sailing in the Canary Islands.
Among the most interesting All islands have sailing
trips on horseback are the Yachts moored in Puerto centres, offering short sailing
sightseeing tours of the de Mogán harbour courses for all ages.
national parks, including
Garajonay on La Gomera. parks. There are many agents F ISHING
All horse-riding outings, offering such tours. They
performed individually organize transport for cyclists HE CANARY ISLANDS ’ waters
or in groups, are always
supervised by the owner of
and their equipment to the
starting point and collect
T are packed with fish that
attract anglers, but due to
the stable or an instructor them at the end. Some firms depleted stocks there are now
who knows the area well. also include a picnic lunch in more restrictions in place.
the price of the outing. Almost every island offers sea
Bicycles are an excellent trips combined with marlin
means of transport around the fishing. One of the best
islands. Many tourists use places for trying to catch this
touring bikes to reach distant fish are the waters around Isla
beaches, for shopping trips or Graciosa, off the north coast
just to escape from the of Lanzarote.
crowds. Tourists can hire a boat or
join an organized expedition.
S AILING Fishing equipment is generally
provided by the organizer.
LMOST EVERY LARGE coastal
A town or village has a
marina. These have been an
N ATURISM
important call for transatlantic ATURISM IS LEGALon all the
sailors since the time of
Columbus, and are visited by
N islands’ beaches. There
are, however, some beaches
Riders at sunset on Valle yachts from all over Europe. which are more popular with
Gran Rey beach Modern marinas have facilities nudists, such as Le Tejita to
for yacht repair. Food supplies the south east of Tenerife,
C YCLING are available in local shops, and Playa Guasimeta near
while harbour restaurants Arrecife airport in Lanzarote.
HE MOUNTAINOUS character tempt hungry sailors. In These beaches, however, may
T of the islands creates
excellent conditions for riding
smaller places, yacht harbours also be used by non-nudists.

mountain bikes or racers. On

steep, winding roads you can
often encounter groups of
cyclists whizzing past.
Cycling, however, given the
nature of the terrain you are
likely to encounter, requires
much care. Traffic, too,
presents a serious danger.
More ambitious cyclists can
undertake a guided tour.
These usually lead over areas
of wilderness and require a
lot of stamina. The best
places for this type of
adventure are the national Cyclists by Castillo Santa Barbara, near Teguise
182 T R A V E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

H ANG - GLIDING Fuerteventura and Pozo

AND P ARAGLIDING Izquierdo on Gran Canaria.
These also play host to a
-
ANG GLIDING and number of international
H paragliding (similar to
hang-gliding but using a
windsurfing events.
It should, however, be
parachute-type wing) offer an remembered that along
unforgettable way to see the beaches where top
islands. The large islands, international events take
such as Gran Canaria, have place, the conditions can be
particularly favourable very treacherous. Winds are
weather for this sport. strong and variable and the
Tenerife alone has more than waves are big. The winds are
40 centres for hang-gliding. Parachute towed by a motorboat particularly strong from April
Many centres offer hang- near Los Gigantes cliffs until the end of summer,
gliding courses. They are held while in the winter months
in the island’s interior regions, courses, for all levels of the Atlantic waves are bigger
which feature the best lifting proficiency. In order to go and more dangerous to
currents. When the weather is scuba diving in Spain, you inexperienced windsurfers.
right, it is possible to fly over must have a proper diving
an entire island by hang- certificate. The recognized
glider. Those wanting a less ones include PADI, CUC,
risky taste of gliding can try CMAS/FEDAS and SSI.
their hand at parascending Holders of these certificates
behind a motorboat. can join underwater
expeditions. Diving around
W ATER M OTORSPORTS Famara, on Lanzarote, or La
Restinga on El Hierro, provides
OTORBOAT RACES AND other an unforgettable experience.
M similar events are a rare
sight on the islands. However,
Underwater spearfishing is
permitted only to snorkellers.
many people take the
opportunity to try jet-ski W INDSURFING
rides. Equally popular are
water-skiing and bumping to a
ITCHING YOURSELF
along in rubber rafts towed
by a speeding boat.
H windsurfing board is
undoubtedly one of the
islands’ most popular sports. Windsurfer off the coast
D IVING The strong winds on many of Fuerteventura
beaches, combined with the
NORKELLING and scuba sunshine, create excellent S URFING
Scatered
diving are both well
for on the islands and
conditions for this sport.
There are several schools surfers or
OU WILL FIND
provide the opportunity to
see rays, barracuda, turtles
that can teach you how to do
it. They also rent sailboards to
Y people playing with
boogie boards on practically
and a variety of tropical fish. stronger swimmers. all Canary Island beaches.
You might even see a shark! Advanced windsurfers (or Surfing schools are thin on
There are many diving windsurfistas as they are the ground, however, but
centres (centro de buceo) known to the locals) should there are a number of hire
where you can hire definitely try the beaches at shops in places that have
equipment, go for a test dive El Medano on Tenerife, particularly favourable sea
with an instructor or join Playa de Sotavento on conditions such as Gran
Canaria’s Maspalomas Beach.
Surfing is popular with the
locals but it can be extremely
dangerous and you should
exercise great caution,
particularly around the
northern shores, where waves
are much stronger than they
seem from the shore. In many
places, eddies and currents
make the conditions even
more treacherous. Another
hazard is the rocky seabed, so
before entering the water you
should find out whether the
Diving – one of the most popular island sports beach is safe.
 O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S 183

D IRECTORY Círculo Hípico Real Club Náutico § 928 565 795.

Manivasán de Tenerife ∑ www.blue-explorers.com
G OLF C/Terra, 5. El Paso. Avda. Francisco La Roche,
§ 922 460 316. s/n. Santa Cruz de Tenerife Centro de Buceo
Amarilla Golf & § 922 273 700. las Toninas
Country Club Lanzarote a Caballo ∑ www.rcnt.es Aptos. Playa Flamingo,
Ctra – Arrecife – Yaiza, 17 km. Playa Blanca.
Urb. Amarilla Golf.
§ 928 517 300.
San Miguel de Abona. § 928 830 038. F ISHING
` 928 813 995. ` 928 517 490.
§ 922 730 319.
$ divingtoninas@
` 922 785 557. Fishing Club
∑ www.amarillagolf.es Mamio Verde Alegranza lanzarote.com
Cuadras de Pino Alto, 39. C/Orchilla, 34.
Campo de Golf La Orotava. La Restinga, El Hierro.
Club Barakuda
§ 922 333 508. Playa Paraíso. Adeje.
Maspalomas § 922 557 038.
§ 922 741 881.
Avda. Touroperadores
Neckermann, s/n. Sociedad Hípica N ATURISM ∑ www.buceo-
Maspalomas. Miranda tenerife.com
§ 928 762 581. Miranda de Abajo. Federación
` 928 768 245. Breña Alta. Española de Dive Center
§ 922 437 696. C/Nuestra Señora
∑ www.maspalomasgolf. Naturismo
` 922 181 392. del Pino, 22.
net (Nudist beach listings)
Corralejo.
∑ www.naturismo.org
§ 928 535 906.
Golf Costa Teguise C YCLING
∑ www.divecenter
Urb. Costa Teguise. H ANG - GLIDING
§ 928 590 512. Bike Station Gomera AND P ARAGLIDING corralejo.com
` 922 592 337. Avda. Maritima, 10.
$ [email protected] Valle Gran Rey, Escuela de El Submarino
Avda. Marítima, 2.
La Gomera. Parapente “IZAπA”
La Restinga.
Golf del Sur § 922 805 082. Güímar.
§ 922 557 075.
Urb. Golf del Sur. § 619 073 210.
San Miguel de Abona, Bike’n Fun
Autopista del sur. C/Calvo, 20. Escuela Parapente W INDSURFING
§ 922 738 170. Los Llanos de Aridane. Palmasur
` 922 738 272. § 922 401 927. C/La Cruz, 2. Los Quemados. Centro Insular de
∑ www.golfdelsur.net § 609 647 103. Deportes Marítimos
Pemai de Tenerife
Golf las Américas Avda. Marítima, 9. Guelillas de el Ctra. a San Andrés.
Playa de las Américas. Tazacorte. Hierro § 922 240 945.
§ 922 752 005. § 922 408 106. C/Doctor Quintero, 23.
` 922 795 250. Valverde. Fanatic Fun Center
∑ www.golf- S AILING § 922 551 824. Caleta de Fuste.
tenerife.com § 928 535 700.
Club de Deportes Libertad Tacoronte
Real Club de Golf Naúticos Barlovento Pabellón de Deportes. Flag Beach
de Las Palmas Puerto Deportivo “San C/Perez Reyes, Tacoronte. Windsurf
Ctra. de Bandama. Miguel”, San Miguel. § 922 563 251. Centre
Santa Brígida. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. General Linares, 31.
§ 928 350 104. § 922 691 482. Paraclub of Gran Corralejo.
` 928 350 110. ` 922 691 492. Canaria § 609 029 804.
$ [email protected] $ [email protected] Aerodrome El Berriel, Ctra. ∑ www.flagbeach.com
General Del Sur, 46.5 km,
H ORSE R IDING Club de Mar de San Bartolome de Tirajana. Pro Center René
Radazul § 928 157 000. Egli – Windsurf &
Association of Avda.Marítima, Radazul Kiteboarding
Gran Canaria – El Rosario. Real Aeroclub Hotel Sol Los Gorriones.
Riding Clubs § 922 681 099. Gran Canaria Sotavento.
C/León y Castillo, 47. $ radazul § 928 157 147. § 928 547 483.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. @clubmradazul.com ∑ www.aeroclubgran ∑ www.rene-egli.com
canaria.com
Centro Hípico Real Club Náutico Sport Away
Los Brezos de Gran Canaria D IVING Lanzarote
Camino Candelaria Monte, C/León y Castillo, 308. C/de las Olas, 18.
Tacoronte. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. Blue Explorers Costa Teguise
§ 922 567 222. § 928 234 566. Dive Centers § 928 590 731.
∑ www.hipicalosbrezos. ` 928 246 324. Paseo Maritimo, 4. ∑ www.sportaway-
com ∑ www.rcngc.com Playa de Taurito. lanzarote.com
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 186–193
T R A V E L I N F O R M A T I O N 194–197
186 S U R V I V A L G U I D E

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
HE CANARY ISLANDS ’ warm service, particularly on the Internet,

T climate means that the

tourist season here lasts
the whole year. The huge
makes planning a holiday here
a reasonably straightforward
business. Those intending to
investment in the tourist visit can easily find all the
infrastructure means that the necessary information and
islands are well prepared to organize the necessary hotel
receive multitudes of visitors bookings well in advance. This
and have extensive hotel and Logo of the island is important since, particularly
of Lanzarote
catering facilities, as well as in summer and winter, the
numerous attractions and things to do. islands can get extremely crowded,
Frequent charter flights to the islands and it can be very difficult to find
plus a very well-developed information accommodation without prior booking.
W HEN TO V ISIT the Bajada de la Virgen
de las Nieves in Santa
HE HOLIDAY SEASON lasts Cruz de La Palma,
T practically all year round
on the Canary Islands. Thanks
provide another reason
to visit the islands.
to their magnificent weather,
the beaches can be used V ISAS
almost from January until
December. The islands are EGULATIONS COVERING
particularly popular with
visitors during winter months.
R admission to the
Canary Islands are
Many decide to spend a exactly the same as
balmy Christmas on the for the rest of Spain.
islands, rather than huddled Nationals of all the
round a fire in Europe. European Union
The second most popular member states do not
season is summer, particularly require a visa to enter Tourists at a viewpoint
July and August, when the the Canary Islands for
islands are packed, and early tourist visits of up to 90 days. C USTOMS R EGULATIONS
spring is also very busy. Late Other non-EU countries
autumn has fewer visitors. including Australia, Canada, HEN SPAIN JOINED the
The islands are not only
attractive for their sunshine
Israel, Japan, New Zealand
and the USA are likewise
W European Union, the
Canary Islands lost their status
and beaches. One local event not required to obtain a visa as a duty-free zone. For
that attracts crowds of tourists before entry. When in doubt, customs purposes, however,
is the carnival. Visitors from you should contact the the islands are still not
Spain, and further afield, Spanish Embassy or seek considered to be part of the
come mainly to Santa Cruz advice from a travel agent. EU and there are detailed
de Tenerife or Las Palmas de Anyone who does require regulations as to the amount
Gran Canaria to join the a visa must apply in person of goods permitted for export.
carnival celebrations. at the consulate in their They include 200 cigarettes or
Magnificent fiestas, including own country. 50 cigars, two litres of wine
and one litre of alcohol over
22 per cent or two litres of
sparkling wine.
In addition, visitors are
allowed 250 ml of eau de
toilette and up to 162 euros
worth of souvenirs. Tobacco
and alcohol allowances apply
only to adults.
Specific cases may be
referred to the Departamento
de Aduanas e Impuestos
Especiales (Customs and
Excise Department) in
Madrid. Travel agents and
tour operators can provide
Resting on a colourful bench in Santa Cruz de Tenerife further information.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 187

D IRECTORY
T OURIST I NFORMATION
United Kingdom
22/23 Manchester Square,
London W1M 5AP.
§ 020 7486 8077
∑ www.tourspain.es

Gran Canaria
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
§ 928 219 600.
∑ www.grancanaria.com

Playa del Inglés, Avda. España

Maspalomas’ centre, on Gran Canaria, at night and Avda. EE.UU.
§ 928 771 814.
L ANGUAGE farmstead or in a converted ` 928 767 848.
village house), events and
HE OFFICIAL LANGUAGE of the tourist attractions. Fuerteventura
T Canary Islands is Spanish.
Local accents differ from
Tourist offices can also
provide visitors with free
Puerto del Rosario. Avda. Primero
de Mayo, 33.
those of mainland Spain, but information packs and maps § 928 851 024.
apart from this and a few and can offer advice ∑ www.fuerteventuraturismo.com
words particular to the regarding the best walking
islands, there are no major routes, nearby historic sights Lanzarote
C/Blas Cabrera Felipe 3.
differences. and a variety of day trips.
§ 928 811 762.
Apart from Spanish, it is The information packs are
possible to communicate in an excellent point of Tenerife
various foreign languages in reference. They are illustrated Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Plaza de
all the tourist resorts, where with colour photographs and España, s/n – Palacio Insular.
you could get by without any issued in several languages. § 922 239 592.
Spanish at all. The second Outside Spain, there are ∑ www.webtenerife.com
language is German, but plenty of Spanish information
most people also offices, which are usually Aeropuerto Reina Sofía.
speak English. ched to the § 922 759 000.
Information signs embassies, where ` 922 759 247.
and restaurant ou can obtain all
menus are generally he necessary La Gomera
multilingual. The nformation prior to San Sebastián de La Gomera.
most frequent siting the islands. C/Del Medio, 20.
combination is The Internet is § 922 141 512.
Spanish, German nother free source ` 922 140 151.
and English. information, but
Communication en official sites are El Hierro
problems may arise t updated as often Valverde. C/Dr Quintero, 4.
while away from the ey should be. § 922 550 302.
major tourist centres. y island and many ∑ www.elhierro.es
Here most people vidual regions have
speak only Spanish, own websites that La Palma
though the younger p re nevertheless Santa Cruz de La Palma.
population may be promoting tourism worth visiting. The Plaza de la Constitucion.
able to understand Spanish Tourism § 922 412 106.
German or English. Institute – Turespaña – has
its own site, which provides T OURIST I NFORMATION
T OURIST I NFORMATION information about hotels, ON THE I NTERNET
camping sites and tourist
OURIST INFORMATION on the attractions throughout Spain. ∑ www. abacanarias.com
T Canary Islands is a well-
oiled machine. Bigger towns
Various travel agents, hotels,
restaurants, car hire firms and
∑
∑
www. canarias-saturno.org
www. canarias24.com
and tourist centres have an other establishments also ∑ www. canary-guide.com
oficina de turismo advertise their services on the ∑ www. gobcan.es
(information office). These Internet. Their pages generally ∑ www. situr.org
provide information about the include many photographs, ∑ www. tourspain.es
locality, accommodation which can be helpful when ∑ www. vivecanarias.com
(including staying on a choosing a hotel.
188 S U R V I V A L G U I D E

conditions and hotel facilities

with their travel agent. The
organization which helps
disabled people to plan their
holiday on the Canary Islands
is the Confederación
Coordinatora Estatal de
Minusválidos Físico de
España (COCEMFE) – The
Spanish Association for the
Disabled. There are also
special guides published.
Another helpful agency is
Viajes 2000.

S IGHTSEEING T OURS
WIDE RANGE OF sightseeing
Paseo de las Canteras in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria A tours are is available for
tourists throughout the
Y OUTH /S TUDENTS chairs, activity packs and islands. Most organizers and
outside seating are the norm travel agents offer a variety of
OLDERS OF THE rather than the exception in types. These may include
H International Student
Identity Card (ISIC) and the
most restaurants. desert safaris by jeep or on
the back of a camel, fishing
Euro under-26 card are F ACILITIES FOR trips, organized walks,
entitled to many benefits THE D ISABLED submarine cruises, trips in a
when visiting the Canary glass-bottomed boat, and
Islands. They can get HE ISLANDS ARE not visits to one of the islands’
discounts on ferry travel,
entrance charges to museums
T particularly hospitable
to disabled people.
parks, including Palmitos
Parque or Loro
and galleries and tickets to The majority of Parque. People tend
many other tourist attractions. restaurants and to see only one or
Many travel agents offer hotels are not two islands when
cheap flights to cardholders. adapted to serve they visit the Canaries
Under-26 cards can be guests who use but there are day
obtained on Tenerife or Gran wheelchairs. Moving trips to small
Canaria with a passport. To around some of the Parking for the islands, such as the
get an ISIC card you will towns is also very disabled sign Isla de Lobos, close
need to provide proof that difficult, and taking to Fuerteventura.
you are a full-time student. part in events or going on Those not wishing to join a
organized trips is practically trip organized by a hotel or
C HILDREN impossible. travel agent can find many
When planning a visit to the other alternatives. Hotel
HE CANARY ISLANDSare islands, a disabled tourist reception desks and tourist
T geared up for family
holidays and, as with most of
should check the travel offices carry a range of
colourful leaflets with
Europe, children are welcome relevant information.
almost everywhere. The The tours are mainly
beaches provide a safe reasonably priced
playground all year round. daytrips though some
The numerous water parks can last overnight
and the zoos, which stage or even longer. Most
trained parrot and dolphin of them start after
shows, are a big draw and are breakfast and the price
aimed, to a large extent, includes lunch on
squarely at kids. board a boat or in
Many travel agents a friendly restaurant
specialize in arranging family catering for groups of
holidays. They provide all-day tourists. Visitors living
childcare, giving parents a away from the large
chance to take a well-earned towns are offered
rest. They also organize trips to city nightclubs.
competitions, games and trips Shows, dancing and
for their younger guests. karaoke are the most
There is no problem common features
feeding young children. of these forms of
Children’s portions, high- Minigolf for children and adults evening entertainment.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 189

D IRECTORY
Tourist information sign E MBASSIES ON
M AINLAND S PAIN
T IME Gran Canaria, in Playa del
Inglés. A similar one can be Australia
HE CANARY ISLANDS are on found in Puerto de la Cruz, Plaza del Descubridor Diego de
T GMT, the same as the UK
and Ireland, and an hour
on Tenerife. Ordás 3,
38003 Madrid.
§ 91 441 61 80.
behind mainland Spain. In O PENING H OURS $ [email protected]
summer, to make better use
of the sunshine, the clocks go OST MONUMENTS and United Kingdom
an hour forward. The
changeover takes place on
M museums are open from
Tuesday to Sunday. The
Calle de Fernando El Santo 16,
28010 Madrid.
the last Sunday in March. The hours are generally from 10am § 91 700 82 00.
clocks are put back again on to 2pm. They close for the ∑ www.ukinspain.com
the last Sunday in October. siesta and reopen from 5pm
to 8pm. They generally close C ONSULATES IN THE
for public holidays and C ANARY I SLANDS
fiestas, similar to all offices.
The hours for museums in Ireland
smaller towns are more Calle del Castillo 8,
unpredictable and it is best to Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
phone ahead. Outside of the § 922 245 671.
major tourist resorts, shops
close on Sundays. Church USA
Road sign for visitors to Parque opening hours also vary. The C/Martinez de Escobar 3,
Nacional de Garajonay best time to visit is during Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
morning or evening services. § 928 271 259.
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT Theme parks and gardens
are generally open seven days United Kingdom
HE MAINS VOLTAGE on the a week, but even these close C/Luis Morote, 6,
T islands is generally 220 V.
A readily available three-tier
for public holidays. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
§ 928 262 508.
standard travel converter will W ATER Plaza de Weyler, 8,
enable you to use foreign Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
equipment. Mains sockets AP WATER ON the Canary § 922 286 863.
require round-pin plugs. T Islands is suitable for
drinking, although it is usually
` 922 289 903.

R ELIGION heavily treated and can upset Y OUTH /S TUDENTS

the stomach if you are not
Instituto Canario de la
IMILAR TO THE rest of Spain, used to it. It is generally
SRoman
the Canary Islands are
Catholic. Religion
recommended that you drink
bottled water and use tap
Juventud Gobierno
Canarias
C/Profesor Augustín
plays an important role in water for cooking. You should Millares Carlo, 18,
community life. All religious remember to drink a lot of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
festivals are lavishly liquid, to prevent dehydration. § 928 306 397.
celebrated, and many fiestas Shops offer a large variety
are of religious origin. Most of of bottled waters, mainly from Edificio el Cabo
the islands’ churches are local wells. Particularly good C/Leoncio Rodriguez, 7,
Roman Catholic. Their are the sparkling waters, Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
opening hours differ; some including those from Firgas, § 922 208 800.
are open only during services. on Gran Canaria. C/Wenceslao Yañez, 8, La Laguna.
There are also
churches of other O RGANIZATIONS
denominations. Services FOR THE D ISABLED
are held in various
languages, and their COCEMFE
times change C/Luis Cabrera, 63, Madrid.
frequently. Hotel § 917 443 600.
reception desks and ` 914 131 996
tourist information
centres can usually Viajes 2000
Paseo de la Castellana, 228–230,
provide details. A multi- Madrid.
denominational church § 913 231 029.
– Templo Ecuménico –
has recently opened on Sign for Gran Canaria’s botanical garden
190 S U R V I V A L G U I D E

Personal Security and Health

Canary Islands can generally feel
ISITORS TO THE
V safe. Thefts do occur in the most crowded places
and even in hotels, but they can be minimized by
taking sensible precautions. Credit cards and money
are best hidden away or carried in a belt. Never leave
anything visible in your car when you park it. It is also Information board at Amadores
advisable to avoid carrying excessive amounts of cash. beach on Gran Canaria
When in need, you can always ask a policeman for
help. Basic medical help and advice is usually provided S UNSHINE
by a pharmacist. Holders of valid medical insurance
can receive treatment in public hospitals and clinics. HOUGH IT IS, of course, one

P ERSONAL P ROPERTY S PANISH P OLICE

T of the attractions, the sun
should be taken seriously in
the Canary Islands. The
EFORE GOING AWAY it is N THE CANARY ISLANDS, as in archipelago lies in the tropical
B necessary to make sure
you have adequate holiday
I the rest of Spain, there are
essentially three types of
zone where the sun is much
stronger that in the rest of
insurance in order to protect police. The Policía Nacional Spain. People with pale
you financially from the loss (state police), the Policía skin should always use
or theft of your property. Municipal, also known as sun block creams to avoid
Even so, it is advisable to the Policía Local (local burning. Many people
take common-sense police), and the Guardia tend to forget that
precautions against loss or Civil (National Guard). creams do not remain
theft in the first place. The Policía Nacional active throughout the
Traveller’s cheques are a far wear blue uniforms entire day and should
safer option than cash. If you and drive white cars be reapplied every
have two credit cards, do not with navy-blue doors. few hours.
carry them together. Particular These operate in towns When going to the
care should be exercised in with a population of beach try to avoid the
crowded places, such as more than 30,000. hottest hours of the day.
airports or bus stations, as The uniform of the Between 1pm and 4pm
well as inside tourist Policía Local varies it is best not to stay in
attractions, which are always depending on the the sun for too long. The
full of people. Patrolling locality. Their officers are sun is also strong in the
policemen often remind mostly encountered in mountains, above the
visitors about the need to be small towns, and patrol clouds. The somewhat
careful. There are also cases the streets of crowded cooler air makes it
of tourists falling victim to tourist resorts; they Uniform of the feel less hot, but the
theft when drunk. Never have a separate Guardia Civil results can be just as
leave a bag or handbag branch for traffic. unpleasant. When
unattended and do not put The Guardia Civil wear sitting out in the sun you
down a purse or wallet on green uniforms and generally should remember to wear a
the tabletop in a café. The drive white-and-green four- hat, to prevent sunstroke.
moment you discover a loss wheel drive vehicles. They
or theft, report it to the local mainly patrol the open roads. O UTDOOR H AZARDS
police station. The police will The islands’ police are
give you a denuncia (written friendly towards tourists. They NOTHER POTENTIAL problem
statement), which you will
need to make an insurance
are, however, very firm with
those who commit traffic
A on the islands, besides the
sunshine, is the ocean. Many
claim. If you have your offences. All three services people do not realize the
passport lost or stolen report will direct you to the relevant strength of the ocean waves.
it to your consulate. authority in the event of an In order to avoid any
incident requiring unpleasant surprises, you
police help. should always swim where
there are lifeguards. Always
take note of warning signs.
The currents can be
particularly powerful around
the Canary Islands. If you
cannot see plenty of other
people swimming in the
water then the chances are
that it may not be safe. Never
bathe where there are surfers
Local police four-wheel drive car, a common sight on the islands or windsurfers. These are a
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 191

potential hazard, especially

when beginners come too
close to the shore. Surfers and
divers using unguarded
beaches should be aware of
the rocky ocean bottom. A
violent wave can sometimes
throw a person against the
rocks, causing serious injuries.
When diving near the Ambulance in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
shore, it is always advisable
to have another person with P HARMACIES O UTDOORS
you for protection. The marine
fauna do not present a danger HARMACISTS CAN OFFERhelp islands
ISITORS TOURING THE
to swimmers, although jellyfish
can inflict a painful sting.
P and advice. In some cases, V may see various signs
they can also prescribe written only in Spanish, as
medicines. If you have a non- well as warning and
M EDICAL C ARE urgent medical problem the information notices.
farmacia is a good place to Coto de caza or vedat de
OTH NATIONAL AND private start. Most pharmacists will caça means a hunting
B healthcare is available in
Spain. Visitors from EU
speak English. They are open
during the same hours as
ground. Camino particular
means a private road, while
countries are entitled to other shops and carry a privado informs you that the
free national health green cross sign, area is private property.
treatment. They often with the word Hiking routes on the islands
must, however, farmacia. Details can be difficult. When setting
remember to travel about those open off you should take the right
with a certified at night and on equipment and plenty of
copy of a European public holidays water. Tell someone where
Health Insurance card can be found in you are going and when you
(EHIC). These can Illuminated Spanish the windows of intend to return.
be obtained in the pharmacy sign all pharmacies.
UK before you
travel by filling in an F IRE H AZARDS D IRECTORY
application form on either the
EHIC website or at a post HE HIGH TEMPERATURES on E MERGENCY N UMBERS
office. Please note that Spanish
healthcare does not cover all
T the islands make them
very dry. This should be Police, ambulance,
expenses, such as the cost of remembered, particularly fire brigade
dental treatment. Visitors from when travelling by car. At § 112.
outside the EU should always woodland camp sites and
carry valid insurance. picnic spots, great care must Policía Nacional.
In case of illness, you be taken to prevent fire. When § 091.
should report to the nearest leaving, check carefully the
hospital or clinic. At night, remains of any bonfires and Policía Municipal
you should contact the pick up glass, particularly § 092.
emergency service (Urgencias) empty bottles, which can cause
and in case of an accident call fires. It goes without saying Guardia Civil
for a Red Cross ambulance that you should be especially § 062.
(Cruz Roja). careful with cigarettes.
Ambulance
§ 061.

Sea Rescue
§ 928 467 955.

Fire Brigade
§ 080 (Gran Canaria).
§ 112 (Tenerife).

I NFORMATION ON
M EDICAL C ARE
∑ www.ehic.org.uk
§ 0845 606 2030 (from UK).
§ +44 191 203 5555 (from
outside UK).
Sign warning of the risk of forest fires
192 S U R V I V A L G U I D E

Communication and Banks

are
OST PUBLIC TELEPHONES
M served by the Spanish
company Telefónica. There are
Logo of a local bank plenty of public telephones and
no problems in finding them. Thanks to the transfer to
digital technology in 1998, the line quality is generally
good. The Spanish postal system is not among the best.
When exchanging messages with Spanish firms it is
best to use fax or e-mail. There are several banks on
the islands. These generally offer the best exchange
rates. The major Spanish and foreign banks, including Typical post box belonging to
the Spanish correos
Deutsche Bank and Banesto, have branches here.
There are also many local banks. per cent more than one made
from a private phone in
T ELEPHONING is 922. For Gran Canaria someone’s home. Using
province and islands, public telephones is always
HERE ARE TWO types of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, cheaper than making calls
T payphone on the island:
card- and coin-operated, and
the number is 928. Calls
between islands of the same
from a hotel, however.

card-operated (which do not province are charged at the P OSTAL S ERVICE

accept coins). Some phones same rate as long-distance
are equipped with multi- calls within the island. Other OST OFFICES ARE open
lingual electronic displays.
Phonecards are very
calls are charged at the inter-
provincial rate.
P between 9am and 7pm.
Postage stamps can be
convenient and can be When calling Spain from bought at post office desks or
purchased at newsstands and abroad you any of the kiosks
estancos (tobacconists). There should dial 34, displaying the
are two types of telephone followed by the word timbre.
cards. One has a magnetic subscriber’s Letters should be
strip with an encoded value, number, posted in yellow
the other has a PIN number including the post boxes,
that is entered before a area code. marked correos.
connection is made. When calling a One of the many The Spanish
When dialling a number mobile phone Spanish phonecards correos (post
you should remember that number you office) is the
in Spain the area code is a should dial the country only institution authorized to
permanent part of the code followed by the handle mail, so it is not
number, which consists of subscriber’s number. recommended that you leave
nine digits in total. For International calls are your letters in shops or
Tenerife and its dependent cheapest at night (after 8pm) hotels, which sometimes offer
islands, El Hierro, La Palma and on Sunday. A call from a this service.
and La Gomera the area code public telephone box costs 35 The postal system works at
its own pace. You should
therefore not be surprised if
U SING A C OIN AND C ARD T ELEPHONE a letter or postcard takes a
week or more to reach its
destination.
1 Lift the
receiver
and wait for
2 Insert either coins
(monedas), using the
button on the top if there
Postal charges depend on
where the item is being sent
the dialling is one or a card (tarjeta).
tone and for and fall into bands that
the display to
show Inserte 3 Key in the required
number firmly, but not
too fast – Spanish phones
include the EU, the rest of
Europe, the USA and the rest
monedas o
require a slight pause
of the world. Post offices also
tarjeta.
between each digit. accept telegrams, registered
mail and parcels.
4dialling
As you press the digits,
the number you are
will appear on the
C URRENCY
display. You will also be
N MARCH 2002, the Spanish
able to see how much
money or how many units
are left.
Ibypeseta was fully replaced
the common EU currency
– the euro. Notes have several
5or anyWhen you finish your call, replace the
receiver. The phonecard will re-emerge
excess coins will be returned.
denominations, ranging from
5 to 500 euros.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 193

C HANGING M ONEY with cards issued by other

banks. If you want to avoid
can be
LL MAJOR CURRENCIES this, you should find out if
A exchanged without
problem in bureaux de
any Spanish bank has an
agreement with your own
change or banks. bank before travelling.
Bureaux de change charge
higher rates than banks, but C REDIT C ARDS
even banks charge a few per
cent commission. You can REDIT CARDS ARE generally
draw up to 300 euros on
major credit cards at a bank.
C accepted, particularly in
the tourist resorts, where
One of the many cash dispensers
available on the islands
In smaller towns and on every effort is made to make
islands, such as El Hierro, you it easy for visitors. In less-
may have problems with frequented places, small D IRECTORY
exchanging money. When shops and local bars it is
travelling to some of the more sometimes necessary to pay L OST OR S TOLEN
remote places you should in cash, and it is always worth C REDIT C ARDS
carry enough cash. Cajas de carrying some cash to pay for
Ahorro (savings banks) can small items. The most widely Visa
also exchange money. They accepted card in Spain is Visa. § 902 114 400.
open from 8:30am to 2pm on MasterCard and American
weekdays and also on Express are also generally American Express
Thursday afternoons from accepted. When you pay with § 902 375 637.
4:30pm to 7:45pm. a card, cashiers will ask for
ID and usually pass your card MasterCard
through a reading machine. § 902 192 100.
Sometimes you may be asked
to punch in your PIN number. Diners Club
Logo of one of the islands’ § 901 101 011.
most popular banks N EWSPAPERS
P OST O FFICES
B ANKS AND C ASH ACH OF THE islands of the
D ISPENSERS E archipelago publishes its
own newspaper, dealing
Gran Canaria
C/Primero de Mayo, 62,
easy enough to
T IS USUALLY mainly with local issues. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
I find a bank or cash
dispenser on the islands. Most
These are an excellent way
to find out about any local
§ 928 361 320.

banks are open from 9am events. There are also Fuerteventura
until 1pm or 2pm. Some newspapers common to all C/Primero de Mayo, 58–60,
change their opening hours the islands, including Puerto del Rosario.
once a week and open in the Canarias 7.7 § 928 850 412.
afternoon instead. In many towns, kiosks and
Cash dispensers can be hotels sell Spanish national Lanzarote
found on almost every street papers and also foreign C/General Franco, 8,
corner. They all dispense newspapers, including a Arrecife.
money and accept all major number of German and § 928 800 673.
credit cards. Some charge a English language titles.
commission on withdrawals Tenerife
R ADIO AND T ELEVISION Plaza de España,
Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
HERE ARE SEVERALlocal § 922 259 605.
T radio stations on the
Canary Islands. Reception La Gomera
quality varies because of C/del Medio, 68,
the mountainous character San Sebastián de La Gomera.
of the area. Similar to the § 922 871 081.
mainland stations they
broadcast mainly Spanish El Hierro
music and news. There are Correo 3,
also a number of foreign Valverde.
language stations. § 922 550 291.
You can receive Spanish
television programmes, such La Palma
as TVE1, without any problem. Plaza de la Constitución,
Foreign satellite channels Santa Cruz de La Palma.
Popular dailies published on such as Sky, CNN and § 922 411 702.
the Canary Islands Eurosport are also accessible.
194 S U R V I V A L G U I D E

TRAVEL INFORMATION
R LINKS WITHmost of Europe and transport to and from the islands is by

A the Canary Islands are extremely charter flights. Air links between the
efficient. Each island has an islands are provided mainly by Binter
airport. Tenerife, Gran Canarias Airlines. You
Canaria and Lanzarote can also travel to the
take in most of the Canary Islands by ship.
international flights as Airport sign
Most boats sail from
well as those from harbours on mainland
mainland Spain, while the other smaller Spain or the West African coast. Ferries
airports are principally for hopping and fast catamarans provide regular
from island to island. Most of the air links between the islands.
Charter flight tickets were once F LIGHTS B ETWEEN
only bought as part of a THE I SLANDS
package tour. Now visitors
can travel independently, LL THE ISLANDS of the
making a ticket-only purchase
and booking their
A archipelago now have
their own airports.
accommodation separately. Nevertheless, not all of them
When buying an air ticket offer flights to all the other
you should always enquire islands. For example, La
about current offers. Gomera only has flights to
Occasionally, some airlines Tenerife and Gran Canaria.
offer very good bargains. Most routes are served by
Bargains are also to be had if Binter Canarias Airlines.
you book your ticket on the When hopping between the
Internet. However, it is islands, it is a good idea to
difficult to find a find out which airline
Attended car park at Gran bargain during the provides the service.
Canaria airport high seasons, such as It is not a cheap
the school summer option and some
GETTING THERE holidays, Christmas aircraft are very
or during the small, with a dozen
HERE ARE SCHEDULED flights carnivals, which take or so seats. Often,
T to the islands from all
major Spanish towns. Flights
place in February
and March.
the airline will not
allow you to take
from Madrid to Gran Canaria Information can be large hand luggage.
run almost every hour. These found on the Internet Travelling in a small,
routes are served by three or obtained from packed and stuffy
airlines: Iberia, Spanair and travel agents. Brochure for aircraft can be a
Air Europa. Iberia planes You can also travel Binter Canarias little unpleasant for
fly to all the islands of the to the islands by ship people who suffer
archipelago, while the other (the only option if taking from claustrophobia or other
two airlines fly only to a motorbike or car). health problems.
Tenerife, Gran Canaria There are weekly Flights between the islands
and Lanzarote. departures from Cadiz to are short. The shortest,
The Canary Islands also Tenerife and Gran Canaria. between La Palma and El
have scheduled flights to and The voyage takes one-and-a- Hierro, takes 20 minutes; the
from many European cities. half to two days, depending longest – from La Palma to
Air links with Africa are on the destination. Lanzarote – 70 minutes.
provided by three airlines –
Air Maroc, Air Mauritanie and
Air Atlantic. These connect
the islands with the towns of
Morocco and the former
Spanish Sahara.
Apart from scheduled
flights, all airports operate
hundreds of charter flights.
These are used mostly by
German and British tourists,
although holidaymakers come
from all over Europe. Gran Canaria airport, next to the sea
 T R A V E L I N F O R M A T I O N 195

D IRECTORY
A IRPORTS
Gran Canaria
§ 928 579 000.

Fuerteventura
Líneas Fred Olsen ferry § 928 860 600.

A IRPORTS F ERRIES Lanzarote – Guasimeta

§ 928 846 000.
ENERIFE HAS TWO airports – ERRIES PROVIDE an alternative
T Los Rodeos in northen
Tenerife and Reina Sofia in
F form of inter-island
transport, although crossings
Tenerife – Los Rodeos
§ 922 635 635.
southern Tenerife. Flights are not always direct and Tenerife – Reina Sofía
from Tenerife Norte go to all might require a change. § 922 759 000.
the other islands of the Direct crossings to all the
archipelago and the airport other islands, or crossings La Gomera – Punta del
handles most of the with a single change, run Becerro
scheduled flights to Tenerife. only from Tenerife, which is § 922 873 000.
Reina Sofia is a more the hub of island-hopping by
modern airport, and sea (see inside El Hierro – Llano del
caters mainly for the back cover). The Cangrejo
heavier load of most popular § 922 553 700.
charter traffic. tourist resorts
El Hierro has a small provide several daily La Palma
airport – El Llano crossings, by ferry
§ 922 426 100.
del Cangrejo. It is Logo for the or large, fast
situated 12 km (7 Trasmediterranea line catamarans. These
miles) from the carry cars, buses A IRLINES
island’s capital – Valverde, and lorries as well as foot
but it is difficult to get there passengers. They also have Binter Canarias Airlines
by bus. It handles flights to bars, restaurants and cabins. § 902 391 392.
Tenerife, La Palma and Gran When planning a tour
Canaria. around the archipelago you Iberia
La Gomera has recently should remember that § 902 400 500.
acquired an airport – Punta travelling by ferry is always
del Becerro, situated not far much cheaper than flying. F ERRY L INES
from Playa de Santiago. The Although it takes longer it can
island has flights to Tenerife be a very pleasant option. Trasmediterranea
(Los Rodeos) and Gran Ticket prices for crossings § 902 456 456.
Canaria only. offered by the two biggest
La Palma’s airport is situated companies serving inter-island Líneas Fred Olsen
near Santa Cruz de La Palma. routes – Trasmediterranea § 902 100 107.
It handles flights to Gran and Líneas Fred Olsen – are
Canaria, Lanzarote, Tenerife broadly similar. Slightly Naviera Armas
and El Hierro. cheaper tickets are offered § 928 327 783.
Gran Canaria has only one by Naviera Armas lines.
airport, situated between Las
Palmas and Maspalomas. The
airport has good bus links
with both of the largest towns
on the island. Gran Canaria
has flights to all the other
islands of the archipelago.
The Guasimeta airport on
Lanzarote handles flights to
Gran Canaria, Tenerife and La
Palma. It is situated not far
from Arrecife, which also has
a bus station.
Fuerteventura has air links
with Gran Canaria and
Tenerife. A bus runs from the
airport to Puerto del Rosario,
6 km (4 miles) away. Ferry harbour in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
196 S U R V I V A L G U I D E

Getting Around the Islands Large towns have their own

bus networks. These serve
EPENDING ON YOUR plans for visiting the islands, the town and its immediate
D you can choose one of many forms of transport. environs.
The bigger islands, such as Tenerife, Gran Canaria Smaller islands have
infrequent bus services,
and Lanzarote, have efficient buses. Here you can which, although sufficient for
travel by bus to almost any point on the island. the locals, make it difficult to
Exploring some of the smaller islands means hiring explore these places.
a car, motorbike or bicycle. However, some places In towns and major tourist
are best visited as part of an organized tour, with resorts it is easy to get a taxi.
an experienced guide and driver. They are a much more
convenient, although more
expensive, form of transport
become slippery and than buses. Taxi drivers are
the visibility limited. obliged to turn on the meter
Many scenic spots are at the start of the journey, and
accessible only by the sum displayed is the one
rough tracks or unmade you pay. Only when
roads, requiring a four- travelling to and from an
wheel-drive vehicle. airport is there an additional
The best way to visit airport fee as well as a small
them is to join an luggage charge.
organized tour. A heavy
rainfall can make these T OWN D RIVING
roads impassable.
The islands’ roads are, F AT ALL possible, you
in the main, well
signposted, with clear
I should avoid driving in the
capital cities. Las Palmas and
signs for towns, major other cities often experience
tourist attractions and traffic jams during the rush
viewpoints. El Hierro is hours, and at other times.
the exception and you Cars parked by the
may have problems pavements make driving
spotting the small, conditions more difficult. It is
Winding roads in the vicinity of Masca wooden signposts from also very difficult to find a
a distance. In town, the parking space, particularly in
R OADS well-signposted streets make city centres. Most car parks
historic sites and museums charge fees, and there are
ISITORS TOURING the Canary easy to find. fines for non-payment.
V Islands by car cannot but
be impressed by the state of B USES AND T AXIS
the roads. Many are newly
built and smoothly surfaced. N LARGER ISLANDS, such as
All major towns and villages
can be reached by road,
O Gran Canaria and
Tenerife, there are no Advertisement for one of the
without any problem. Larger problems travelling by bus. numerous car hire firms
islands have their own You should, however, bear
motorways (autopistas), in mind that buses to some C AR H IRE
running along the coast, smaller towns or villages may
which connect with the run only once or twice a day N ALL THE islands you can
airports and major resorts.
Roads in the central,
and you might have problems
finding a bus to get you back
O easily find a car hire firm.
Major companies, including
mountainous regions, on the to your hotel or apartment. Avis and Hertz, as well as the
other hand, are narrow and Travelling from a small local ones, including Cicar,
winding. They often lead town or village to a major have their desks at the
through narrow tunnels. nightlife centre later in the airports. Car hire is generally
Problems can arise when two evening may also be very reasonable, but the price
vehicles try to pass each something of a problem. depends on many factors,
other, particularly when one
of them is a bus or a lorry.
Sometimes a hidden
oncoming vehicle signals its
approach by blowing its horn.
Driving conditions may
become dangerous in some
areas when it is raining or
foggy, as the roads can Tourist coach on La Gomera
 T R A V E L I N F O R M A T I O N 197

D IRECTORY
C AR H IRE
CICAR
§ 928 822 900.

Betacar
§ 922 791 154.
∑ www.betacar.com

Avis
§ 902 180 854.
An unorthodox form of transport on the islands ∑ www.avis.com

including the time of year, the should remember that there BUS STATIONS
size of the car and the length are very few petrol stations,
of hire. Advance booking also and that a car uses more fuel Gran Canaria
affects the price. It is worth on mountainous terrain than § 928 361 956.
comparing the prices quoted on a flat road. It is therefore
by various agencies and worth filling the tank before Fuerteventura
checking exactly what the setting off. § 928 850 951.
quote includes.
When hiring a car you R ULES OF THE R OAD Lanzarote
should carefully § 928 811 522.
inspect its condition, HE TRAFFIC regulations
as you will have to
return it in the same
T on the islands are
generally the same as
Tenerife
§ 922 236 582.
state or pay a fine. those of other European
The terms and countries. Vehicles drive La Gomera
conditions of hire vary on the right-hand side of § 922 141 101.
according to individual the road and there are
companies. There are no few road signs specific to El Hierro
established rules regarding Spain or the islands. § 922 550 729.
insurance, mileage or Speed limits, though not
petrol. Check carefully always obeyed by the La Palma
before signing any contract. Spaniards, are legally § 922 411 924.
For an ordinary car the binding. On motorways
terms will probably the speed limit is 120
include a provision Road km/h (74 mph), on M APS
ensuring that you do not breakdown major roads, 90 km/h
drive on unmade roads, help point (55 mph) and in towns, HEN BUYING A map you
or take the car by ferry
to another island. Hire cars
50 km/h (30 mph).
The fines for exceeding the
W should first check if it is
up to date. This is important,
must be returned to where speed limit are high, just as in view of the continuing
they were collected, or to they are for drunken driving. local road development
another agreed place. The highest permitted blood programme. Should you fail
Firms offering motorbikes alcohol level is 0.05 per cent to buy maps before leaving,
for hire are few and far (random breath testing is you can always get the
between. Crash helmets are carried out). Safety belts are island’s map from each car
obligatory, and for anything obligatory for passengers as hire firm. Street maps can be
over 50cc you’ll need to well as drivers. obtained from tourist offices.
produce a driving licence.

B UYING P ETROL
ETROL ON THE islands is
P cheaper than on mainland
Spain. Petrol stations offer all
types of fuel, but most cars
use unleaded petrol.
Petrol station pumps are
generally operated by the
staff. Only a few are
automatic and open 24 hours.
When touring the small
islands, such as El Hierro, you Cavalcade of jeeps at a mountain road stopping point
198 G E N E R A L I N D E X

General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer to Barranco del Agua (La Palma) 146 Brueghel, Jan 101
main entries. Barranco de los Cocos (La Gomera) Buenavista (Tenerife) 116
129 Bureaux de change 193
A Barranco de Guayadeque (Gran Buses 196-7
Abbey, San Buenaventura Canaria) 65
(Betancuria) 74 Barranco de las Hubertas (Tenerife) C
Acantilados de los Gigantes 105 Cabildo Insular (Santa Cruz de
(Tenerife) 117 Barranco del Infierno (Tenerife) 117 Tenerife) 100
Acayama (Mogán) 59 Barranco de Masca 116, 117 Cable-car (Pico del Teide) 119
Adelantados 103 Barranco de Moya 55 Cabrera Felipe, Blas 84
Agaete (Gran Canaria) 25, 57 Barranco de Santiago 129 Cabrera, Manuel Valesquez 34
restaurants 168 Bars 178 Cactualdea (San Nicolás de
Agalán (La Gomera) 129 Basílica see Churches Tolentino) 58
Aguiar, José 121, 127 Bazaars 177 Cactus 86
Agüimes (Gran Canaria) 64 Beaches Cala del Tacorón (El Hierro) 138
Encuentro Internacional Tres Costa Teguise (Lanzarote) 84-5, 95 Caldera de Bandama (Gran Canaria)
Continentes 26, 179 Fuerteventura 78-9 52
hotels 156 Gran Canaria 58-9 Caldera de Gaíra (Fuerteventura) 79
restaurants 168 Lanzarote 94-5 Caldera de Marcos y Cordero (La
Agulo (La Gomera) 127 Los Cristianos (Tenerife) 117, 120 Palma) 146
Air travel 194-5 Maspalomas (Gran Canaria) 59, 60- Caldera de Taburiente see National
Airports 195 61 parks
Ajuy (Fuerteventura) 66, 74 Playa de Alcaravaneras (Gran Caldera Pinos de Gáldar (Gran
Alajeró (La Gomera) 125, 129 Canaria) 50 Canaria) 62
Alcáçovas Treaty (1479) 32 Playa de las Américas (Tenerife) Calendar of events 24-7
Alegranza 87, 88 99, 117, 120 Caleta de Fustes (Fuerteventura) 79
Alfonso XIII, King of Spain 53 Playa de las Canteras (Las Palmas hotels 158
Almaciga (Tenerife) 105 de Gran Canaria) 51 Caleta del Sebo (Isla Graciosa) 87
Amberes, Guamart de 47 Playa de las Conchas (Isla Calle Carrera Escultor Estévez (La
Anaga Mountains (Tenerife) 104-5 Graciosa) 87 Orotava) 108
Andujar, Martín de 107 Playa de Famara (Lanzarote) 89 Calle Castillo (Santa Cruz de Tenerife)
Antigua (Fuerteventura) 73 Playa del Inglés (Gran Canaria) 42, 101
hotels 158 59 Calle Mayor de Triana (Las Palmas de
Apartments, holiday 154 Playa Jardín (Puerto de la Cruz, Gran Canaria) 49
Aquariums, Loro Park (Puerto de la Tenerife) 113 Calle O’Daly (Santa Cruz de La
Cruz, Tenerife) 115 Playa de Santiago (La Gomera ) 129 Palma) 144
Aquasur (Maspalomas) 60, 61 Playa de Sotavento (Fuerteventura) Calle Quintana (Puerto de la Cruz,
Arbol Santo (El Hierro) 139 79 Tenerife) 112
Arguineguín (Gran Canaria) 59 Playa de las Teresitas (Tenerife) Calle Real de la Plaza (Teror) 53
Arona (Tenerife) 172 105, 120 Calle de San Telmo (Puerto de la
Arráez, Xabán de 74 Playa de Papagayo (Lanzarote) 83, Cruz, Tenerife) 112
Arrecife (Lanzarote) 25, 84 91, 94 Calle Tomás Zerolo (La Orotava) 110
beaches 95 Puerto Rico (Gran Canaria) 59, 60 Camel trips 91, 92
hotels 159 Tenerife 120-21 Camino de la Virgen de Lourdes 116
restaurants 171 Benahoares 147, 150 Camping 155
Arrieta (Lanzarote) 83 Benchijigua (La Gomera) 161 Candelaria (Tenerife) 27, 120-21
Art galleries see Museums and Benedict XIV, Pope 33 restaurants 172
galleries Benijo (Tenerife) 105 Canova, Antonio 100
Arucas (Gran Canaria) 54 Benzoni, Girolamo 32 Car hire 196-7
restaurants 168 Berthelot, S. 34 Car parks 196
Arure (La Gomera) 128 Bétancourt, Augustín de 112 Car rallies 22, 24
Astronomical Observatory (La Palma) Betancourt, Rómulo, President of Carlos III, King of Spain 113
150 Venezuela 110 Carnival 20-21, 27, 179
Atalaya de Femés (Lanzarote) 94 Betancuria (Fuerteventura) 25, 67, 74 Carpet-making 19
Atlantida 179 museum 18 Carracci brothers 47
Auditorio see Concert halls restaurants 170 Casa de la Alhondiga (La Laguna) 103
Avenida Marítima (Santa Cruz de La Béthencourt, Jean de 73 Casa Alvaro Bragamonte (La Laguna)
Palma) 144-5 on El Hierro 29, 138 103
Ayuntamiento (La Laguna) 103 on Fuerteventura 29, 67, 74, 78 Casa de los Arroyos (Arrecife) 84
on Isla Graciosa 87 Casa Augustín de la Hoz (Arrecife) 84
B on Lanzarote 29, 81, 91 Casa de los Balcones (La Orotava)
Bahía de Naos (El Hierro) 138 on Los Lobos 71 110
Bahía del Duque (Playa de las Billancourt, Jean-Paul de 144 Casa del Capellán (La Oliva) 72
Américas) 117 Binter Canarias Airlines 194 Casa de los Capitanes (La Laguna)
Bajada de la Virgen de los Reyes Bobadilla, Beatriz de 126 103
(Valverde) 25, 137 Boca de Tauce (Tenerife) 118 Casa de Colón (Las Palmas de Gran
Bajamar (Tenerife) 106 Bolívar, Simón 53, 107 Canaria) 45, 46-7
Ballet festivals 24 Bordes, Juan 51 Casa de Colón (San Sebastián de La
Banks 193 Borges Lineres, Juan 73 Gomera) 126
El Barco de la Virgen (Santa Cruz de Bravo Murillo (Las Palmas de Gran Casa de la Coroneles (La Oliva) 34,
La Palma) 145 Canaria) 49 72
Barlovento (La Palma) 147 Breña Alta (La Palma) 175 Casa del Corregidor (La Laguna) 103
hotels 163 Breña Baja (La Palma) Casa de la Cultura (Garchico) 107
restaurants 175 hotels 163 Casa Lercaro (La Laguna) 103
Barranco de Agaete 57 restaurants 175 Casa Mesa (La Laguna) 103
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 199

Casa de Miranda (Puerto de la Cruz, Centro de Artesanía Molinos de Churches (cont)

Tenerife) 112 Antigua (Antigua) 73 Nuestra Señora de la Peña de
Casa Museo see Museums and Centro Atlántico de Arte Moderno Francia (Tenerife) 112
galleries (CAAM) (Las Palmas de Gran Nuestra Señora de la Peña (Vega
Casa Pedromo (San Bartolomé) 90 Canaria) 45, 48 de Río Palmas) 75
Casa Pinto (Santa Cruz de La Palma) Centro Científico Cultural (Arrecife) 84 Nuestra Señora del Pino (Teror) 53
144 Centro de Interpretación de los Nuestra Señora de la Regla (Pájara)
Casa de la Real Aduana (Puerto de la Molinos (Tiscamanita) 73 33, 75
Cruz, Tenerife) 112 Cerámica el Molino (Mazo) 148 Nuestra Señora de Regle (Santa
Casa de Santa María (Betancuria) 69 Chamorga (Tenerife) 105 Cruz de Tenerife) 102
Casa de Tafuriaste (La Orotava) 111 Charco Azul (El Hierro) 137 Nuestra Señora de los Remedios
Casa Torrehermosa (La Orotava) 110 Charco Azul (La Palma) 143, 147 (Los Llanos de Aridane) 148
Casa del Turista (La Orotava) 110 Charco de San Ginés (Arrecife) 84 Nuestra Señora de los Remedios
La Casa del Vino La Baranda (El Charco Manso (El Hierro) 133, 136 (Yaiza) 90-91
Sauzal) 106 Charco Verde (La Palma) 148 Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Puerto
Casas de los Balcones (Santa Cruz de Charter flights 194 del Rosario) 70
La Palma) 145 Children 188 San Agustín (La Orotava) 109
Casas Consistoriales (Santa Cruz de carnival 21 San Andrés Apostól (San Andrés,
La Palma) 144 Chinobre (Tenerife) 104, 105 La Palma) 146
Casas de Guinea (El Hierro) 136 Chipude (La Gomera) 129, 130 San Antonio Abad (Las Palmas de
Casas Rurales 154, 155 Chirino, Martín 48 Gran Canaria) 45
Cash dispensers 193 Churches San Bartolomé (San Bartolomé) 82,
Casino de La Laguna (La Laguna) 103 Basílica de Nuestra Señora de 90
Casino Taoro (Puerto de la Cruz, Candelaria (Candelaria) 121 San Blás (Mazo) 148
Tenerife) 113 Ermita de las Nieves (Puerto de las San Fernando (Santiago del Teide)
Cassilas del Angel (Fuerteventura) 70 Nieves) 57 116
Cassio, Mariano de 144 Ermita de Nuestra Señora de San Francisco (La Orotava) 110
Castillo see Castles Guadalupe (La Gomera) 126 San Francisco (Las Palmas de Gran
Castles Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Luz Canaria) 49
El Castillo (Caleta de Fustes) 79 (Santa Cruz de La Palma) 144 San Francisco de Borja (Las Palmas
Castillo de las Colorades (Punta del Ermita San Isidoro (Alajeró) 125 de Gran Canaria) 48
Aguila) 91 Ermita San Marcial del Rubicón San Francisco (Puerto de la Cruz,
Castillo de la Luz (Las Palmas de (Femés) 94 Tenerife) 112
Gran Canaria) 51 Ermita de San Pedro (Arucas) 54 San Francisco (Santa Cruz de La
Castillo de Mata (Las Palmas de Ermita de San Sebastián (San Palma) 145
Gran Canaria) 49 Sebastián de La Gomera) 126 San Francisco (Santa Cruz de
Castillo de San Felipe (Puerto de la Ermita de San Sebastían (Santa Tenerife) 101
Cruz, Tenerife) 113 Cruz de La Palma) 144 San Ginés (Arrecife) 84
Castillo de San Gabriel (Arrecife) Ermita de la Virgen de la San Juan (Arucas) 54
84 Concepción de la Bonanza (La San Juan Bautista (La Orotava) 110
Castillo de San Juan (Santa Cruz de Palma) 148 San Juan Bautista (Telde) 65
Tenerife) 102 Iglesia de la Candelaria (Frontera) San Juan Bautista (Vallehermoso)
Castillo de San Miguel (Garachico) 136 127
107 Iglesia de la Concepción (La San Marcos (Agulo) 127
Castillo San Miguel (Garachico) 32 Orotava) 108 San Marcos (Icod de los Vinos) 107
Castillo de Santa Bárbara (Teguise) Iglesia del Cristo de los Dolores San Miguel Arcángel (Tazacorte) 147
89 (Tacoronte) 106 San Miguel (La Laguna) 103
Castillo de Santa Catalina (Santa Iglesia de la Encarnación San Nicolás (San Nicolás de
Cruz de La Palma) 145 (Hermigua) 127 Tolentino) 58
Castillo de la Virgen (Santa Cruz de Iglesia del Salvador (Alajeró) 129 San Pedro de Alcántara
La Palma) 145 Iglesia de El Salvador (Santa Cruz (Ampuyenta) 73
Fortaleza del Tostón (El Cortillo) 72 de La Palma) 144 San Pedro Apóstol (Güimar) 121
Los Realejos (Tenerife) 106-7 Iglesia de la Virgen de la Asunción San Pedro (Vilaflor) 120
Cathedrals (San Sebastián de La Gomera) 126 San Sebastián (Agüimes) 64
Catedral de Santa Ana (Las Palmas Iglesia de la Virgen de la Santa Ana (Candelaria) 121
de Gran Canaria) 44, 48 Candelaria (Chipude) 129 Santa Ana (Cassilas del Angel) 70
La Laguna 103 Nuestra Señora (La Palma) 147 Santa Ana (Garachico) 107
Cave dwellings 29 Nuestra Señora de Antigua Santa Brígida Parish Church (Gran
Caves (Antigua) 73 Canaria) 52
Cenobio de Valerón (Gran Canaria) Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria Santa Catalina (Tacoronte) 106
55 (Gran Tarajal) 78 Santa Lucía (Santa Lucía) 64
Cuatro Puertas (Gran Canaria) 64 Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria Santa Margarita (Guatiza) 86
Cueva de Belmaco (La Palma) 148 (Ingenio) 64 Santa María (Betancuria) 74
Cueva Don Justo (El Hierro) 138 Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria Santa María de la Concepcíon
Cueva del Hermano Pedro (La Oliva) 72 (Valverde) 135, 136
(Tenerife) 120 Nuestra Señora de la Concepción Santa María de Guía (Gran
Cueva Pintada de Gáldar (Gran (La Laguna) 103 Canaria) 55
Canaria) 30, 48, 57 Nuestra Señora de la Concepción Santiago Apóstol (Los Realejos) 106
Cueva de los Verdes (Lanzarote) (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) 100 Santiago de los Caballeros (Gáldar)
86-7 Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación 57
Jameos del Agua (Lanzarote) 86 (Haría) 88 Santuario de Cristo (La Laguna) 103
Los Hervideros (Lanzarote) 91 Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los
Cenobio de Valerón (Gran Canaria) (Teguise) 89, 89 Reyes (El Hierro) 137, 138
55 Nuestra Señora de Montserrat (Los Santuario de la Virgen de las
Centro de Arte Canario (La Oliva) 72 Sauces) 146-7 Nieves (La Palma) 146
200 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Churches (cont) Entertainment (cont)

Templo Ecuménico (Maspalomas) D nightlife 178
60 Damme, Daniel von 52 outdoor activities 180-3
see also Cathedrals; Convents Dance festivals 24 sources of information 178
Cinema 178 De la Salle, Gadifer 67, 71, 74 spectator sports 22-3
Ciudad Jardin (Las Palmas de Gran Dedo de Dios (Puerto de las Nieves) theatre and cinema 178
Canaria) 50 57 Escuela Insular de Artesanía (Mazo)
Cleve, Joos van 57 Dialling codes 192 148
Climate 24-7 Disabled visitors 188, 189 Espellosa y Vallabridge, Jeronimo de
Cochineal 33, 34 Diving and snorkelling 17, 23, 182-3 107
Coello, Dimas 121 Does, Peter van der 49 Estaba de Porte (Garachico) 107
Cofete (Fuerteventura) 76, 78 Dolphinarium, Loro Parque (Puerto Estévez, Fernando
Columbus, Christopher 28, 32, 126 de la Cruz, Tenerife) 114 Basílica de Nuestra Señora de
bust (Las Palmas de Gran Canaria) Drag queens 20-21 Candelaria 121
49 Dragon trees 14 Convento de Santo Domingo de
Casa de Colón (Las Palmas de Drago de Agalán (Agalán) 129 Guzmán 127
Gran Canaria) 45, 46-7 Drago Milenario (Icod de los Iglesia de la Concepción (La
Casa de Colón (La Gomera) 126 Vinos) 107 Orotava) 108
Columbus Week 26 Drake, Sir Francis 26, 145 Iglesia de El Salvador (Santa Cruz
Pozo de Colón 126 Driving 196-7 de La Palma) 144
replica of Santa Maria 38, 145 Dulceta, Angelino 67 Iglesia San Juan Bautista (La
Communications 192-3 Dunas de Maspalomas (Gran Canaria) Orotava) 110
Concert halls 60 Nuestra Señora de la Peña de
Auditorio Alfredo Kraus (Las Francia (Puerto de la Cruz) 112
Palmas de Gran Canaria) 51, 179 E
Auditorio de Puerto del Rosario Echadero de los Camellos (Lanzarote) F
179 92 Faro de Anaga (Tenerife) 105
Auditorio de Tenerife (Santa Cruz Echedo (El Hierro) 175 Faro de Orchilla (El Hierro) 138
de Tenerife) 102, 179 Ecomuseo de la Alcogida (Tefía) 73 Fataga (Gran Canaria) 61
Auditorio ‘Teobaldo Power’ (La Ecomuseo de Guinea (El Hierro) 136- hotels 156
Orotava) 179 7 Father Peter (Canary Island saint) 120
Concerts 179 Eduardo, Antonio José 57 Feast days see Festivals
Consulates 189 El Bailadero (Tenerife) 105 Femés (Lanzarote) 25, 92, 94
Convents El Cercado (La Gomera) 128-9, 130 Fernández de Lugo, Alonso 32, 100,
Miraflores (Teguise) 89 El Cotillo (Fuerteventura) 72 103
San Francisco Nuestra Señora de El Diablo (Lanzarote) 93, 172 Ferries 195
los Angeles (Garachico) 107 El Golfo (El Hierro) 136, 137 Festivals 24-7, 179
Santa Catalina (La Laguna) 103 El Golfo (Lanzarote) 12, 91 film festivals 26, 179
Santo Domingo de Guzmán El Grifo vineyard (Lanzarote) 95 Fiestas see Festivals
(Hermigua) 127 El Hierro 10, 132-9 Fire hazards 191
Santo Domingo (Garachico) 107 airport 195 Firgas (Gran Canaria) 54
Santo Domingo (La Orotava) 110, Bajada de la Virgen de los Reyes 25 Fish 16-17
111 getting there 135 Fishing 181, 183
Santo Domingo (Teguise) 89 history 133 Flora 14-15
Corpus Christi 25, 111 hotels 162-3 Anaga Mountains (Tenerife) 104
La Orotava 108 landscape 134 cactus 86
Corralejo (Fuerteventura) 67, 70-71 map 134-5 orchids 39, 61
hotels 158 population 133 see also Trees and shrubs
restaurants 170-71 restaurants 175 Food and drink
Costa Adeje (Tenerife) 117 El Médano (Tenerife) 99, 120, 121 restaurants 168-75
hotels 160 El Palmar (Tenerife) 116 shopping 177
Costa Calma (Fuerteventura) 75, 79 El Paso (La Palma) 148 what to eat 164, 166-7
hotels 158 hotels 163 Football see Soccer
restaurants 171 El Pinar (El Hierro) 139 Formation of the Canary Islands 12-
Costa Canaria 59 El Portillo visitor centre (Parque 13
Costa del Silencio (Tenerife) 120 Nacional del Teide) 118 Fortaleza del Tostón (El Cortillo) 72
Costa Teguise (Lanzarote) 84-5 El Pozo (Lanzarote) 91 La Fortaleza (La Gomera) 129
beaches 95 El Sabinar (El Hierro) 38, 134, 137 Fraile (Fuerteventura) 76
hotels 159 El Sauzal (Tenerife) 106 Franco, General Francisco 34-5, 71, 76
restaurants 171 restaurants 172 Rambla de General Franco (Santa
Cráter del Duraznero (La Palma) 149 Electrical equipment 189 Cruz de Tenerife) 102
Cráter del Hoyo Negro (La Palma) 149 Embassies 189 Frontera (El Hierro) 136
Credit cards 193 Embroidery 18, 64 hotels 162
for accommodation 155 Emergencies 191 Fuencaliente de La Palma 148, 149
in restaurants 165 Emigration 123 Fuerteventura 66-79
for shopping 176 Encuentro Internacional Tres airport 195
Cruz de Tejeda (Gran Canaria) 63 Continentes (Agüimes) 179 beaches 78-9
hotels 156 Entertainment 178-9 climate 67
Cuatro Puertas (Gran Canaria) 64 bars and pubs 178 festivals 24-7
Cueva see Caves calendar of events 24-7 getting there 69
Cumbre Vieja (La Palma) 149 carnival 20-21 hotels 158-9
Currency 192 daytime entertainment 178 landscape 13
Customs regulations 186 discos 178 map 68-9
Cycle racing 22 festivals 24-7, 179 population 67
Cycling 181, 183 music and concerts 179 restaurants 170-71
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 201

Hospital de la Santísima Trinidad (La La Laguna (Tenerife) (cont)

G Orotava) 110 Corpus Christi 25
Gabinete Literario (Las Palmas de Hotel Puntagrande (Las Puntas) 136 festivals 26
Gran Canaria) 49 Hotels 154-63 hotels 160
Gabriel, Peter 179 booking 155 restaurants 172-3
Gáldar (Gran Canaria) 25, 57 El Hierro 162-3 University 33
Galleries see Museums and galleries Fuerteventura 158-9 La Laguna Grande (La Gomera) 129,
Garachico (Tenerife) 32, 33, 107 Gran Canaria 156-7 130
Garafía (La Palma) 175 La Gomera 161-2 La Lajita (Fuerteventura) 24, 75
Garajonay, El Alto de (La Gomera) 131 La Palma 163 La Manteca (La Gomera) 129
Geology see Formation of the Canary Lanzarote 159-60 La Matanza (Tenerife) 173
Islands Paradors 154 La Oliva (Fuerteventura) 72
Geysers 93 prices 155 La Orotava (Tenerife) 108-11
Gobierno Militar (Las Palmas de Gran Tenerife 160-61 Corpus Christi 25, 108, 111
Canaria) 49 Huerto de las Flores (Agaete) 57 hotels 160
Gofio Mills (La Orotava) 110 Humbolt, Alexander von 111 map 109
Golf 22, 180, 183 La Palma 140-51
Golf del Sur (Tenerife) 120 I airport 195
Gonzáles, Martín 121 Iberia 194, 195 climate 141
Graciosa see Isla Graciosa Ibis 39 getting there 142
Gran Canaria 40-65 Icod de los Vinos (Tenerife) 107 hotels 163
airport 195 Iglesia see Churches landscape 141, 142
beaches 58-9 Igueste de San Andrés (Tenerife) 105 map 142-3
climate 41 Inés Cemida (Telde) 65 restaurants 175
festivals 24-7 Ingenio (Gran Canaria) 64 La Palmita (La Gomera) 127
getting there 42 International Canarias Jazz & La Pared (Fuerteventura) 68, 69, 75
history 41 Heineken Festival 25, 179 La Playa (La Gomera) 128
hotels 156-7 Isabella II, Queen 34 La Puntilla (La Gomera) 128
map 42-3 Isla de Los Lobos 70, 71 La Restinga (El Hierro) 13, 138
mountains 62-3 Isla Graciosa 87, 88, 89 hotels 162
population 41 Island-hopping 194-5 restaurants 175
restaurants 168-70 Islote de Hilario (Lanzarote) 93 La Vegueta (Las Palmas de Gran
tourism figures 41 Isora (El Hierro) 138-9 Canaria) 48
Gran Melia Salinas (Costa Teguise) 84 Izaña Astrophysical Observatory La Zarza (La Palma) 147
Gran Tarajal (Fuerteventura) 78 (Tenerife) 111, 119 Lace-making 19
Gran Valle (Fuerteventura) 76 Lagartario (El Hierro) 137
Grand Hotel Taoro (Puerto de la J,K Lago Martiánez (Puerto de la Cruz,
Cruz) 97 Jameos del Agua (Lanzarote) 86 Tenerife) 112, 113
Guadarfía, Guanche king 88 Jandía Península see Península de Lago Verde (El Golfo) 91
Guamasa (Tenerife) 172 Jandía Language 187
Guanches 29, 30-31, 32 Jardín Botánico Canario (Gran Lanzarote 80-95
Barranco de Guayadeque 65 Canaria) 52 airport 195
bronze statues (Candelaria) 121 Jardín Botánico (Tenerife) 109, 113 beaches 94-5
Mundo Aborigen 61 Jardín de Cactus (Guatiza) 86 getting there 82
Museo Canario 48 Jardín Tecina (La Gomera) 129 history 81
pottery 18 Jardín Victoria (La Orotava) 111 hotels 159-60
El Pueblo Guanche (La Orotava) 108 Jazz 25, 179 landscape 82
Tumulo de la Guancha 57 Jogging 180 map 82-3
Guatiza (Lanzarote) 86 Jones, Sir Alfred Lewis 44 restaurants 171-2
Guercino, Giovanni 47 Juan Carlos, King of Spain 85, 150 water shortages 81
Guía de Isora (Tenerife) 26 Juniper trees 134, 137 Las Cañadas (Tenerife) 119
Güimar (Tenerife) 121 Kraus, Alfredo 51 Las Casas (El Hierro) 139
Guinate (Lanzarote) 39, 88 Las Mercedes plateau (Tenerife) 104
L Las Nieves (La Palma) 146
La Aldea de San Nicolás Las Palmas de Gran Canaria 42, 44-
H (Gran Canaria) 58 51
Handicrafts 18-19 La Ampuyenta (Fuerteventura) 73 Corpus Christi 25
shopping 177 La Calera (La Gomera) 128 Festival de Ballet y Danza 24
Hang-gliding and paragliding 182, La Caleta de Famara (Lanzarote) 89 Festival Internacional de Cine 26,
183 La Cumbrecita (La Palma) 151 179
Haría (Lanzarote) 11, 39, 88 La Dama (La Gomera) 129 harbour 51
restaurants 171 La Degollada de Becerra (Gran history 34, 44
Health 190-91 Canaria) 63 hotels 156
Heredad de Aguas de Arucas y Firgas La Dehesa (El Hierro) 24 La Vegueta District 48
(Arucas) 54 La Gería (Lanzarote) 12, 80, 94-5 map 44-5
Hermigua (La Gomera) 38, 126-7 La Gomera 122-31 restaurants 168-9
hotels 161 airport 195 Romería de Nuestra Señora de la
Hernández, Manuel Diáz 144 getting there 125 Luz 26
Herschel, William 150 hotels 161-2 Street-by-Street map 44-5
Heyerdahl, Thor 121 landscape 124 Triana District 49
Hijuela del Botánico (La Orotava) 109 map 124-5 Las Playas (El Hierro) 175
Hiking 180 restaurants 174-5 Las Playitas (Fuerteventura) 78
History of Canary Islands 29-35 La Isleta District (Las Palmas de Gran Las Puntas (El Hierro) 136-7
Holiday World (Maspalomas) 60 Canaria) 51 hotels 162
Horse riding 181, 183 La Laguna (Tenerife) 100, 103 Las Rosas (La Gomera) 127, 131
202 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Laurel groves 15, 130 Manrique, César (cont) Mirador del Santo (La Gomera) 128
León y Castillo, Fernando de 48, 65 Mirador del Río (Lanzarote) 88 Mirador del Time (La Palma) 147
Lepanto, Battle of 147 Monumento al Campesino Mirador de Vallehermoso (La
Liceo de Taoro (La Orotava) 111 (Lanzarote) 90 Gomera) 131
Líneas Fred Olsen 195 Palacio Spínola (Teguise) 89 Miranda, Juan de 72
Llano de Ucanca (Tenerife) 118 Parque Marítimo (Santa Cruz de Miró, Joan 85
Location of the islands 10-11 Tenerife) 102 Mogán (Gran Canaria) 59
Lomo de las Chozas (La Palma) 151 Parque Nacional de Timanfaya hotels 157
López de Echegarret, José A. 54 (Lanzarote) 92-3 restaurants 59, 169
Loro Parque (Puerto de la Cruz, Viewpoint, Valle Gran Rey (La Molino de Gofio (Firgas) 54
Tenerife) 114-15, 178 Gomera) 128 Money 192-3
Los Abrigos (Tenerife) 120 Maps Monopol Hotel (Puerto de la Cruz,
Los Ajaches (Lanzarote) 91 buying 197 Tenerife) 112
Los Azulejos (Gran Canaria) 12 Canary Islands 10-11 Montaña Clara 87, 88
Los Cristianos (Tenerife) 97, 117 Canary Islands at a glance 38-9 Montaña de Arucas (Gran Canaria) 54
beaches 120 El Hierro 134-5 Montaña de los Charcos (La Palma)
hotels 160 Fuerteventura 68-9 149
Los Frailes Hotel (Tarifa Alta) 52 Gran Canaria 42-3 Montaña de Talavera (Tenerife) 116
Los Gigantes (Tenerife) 117 La Gomera 124-5 Montaña Quemada (Fuerteventura) 73
Los Hervideros (Lanzarote) 91 La Orotava (Tenerife) 109 Montaña Roja (Tenerife) 120
Los Llanillos (El Hierro) 137 La Palma 142-3 Montañas del Fuego (Lanzarote) 92-3
Los Llanos de Aridane (La Palma) Lanzarote 82-3 Monte Corona (Lanzarote) 86, 87, 88
148 Las Palmas de Gran Canaria 44-5 Monte de las Mercedes (Tenerife) 106
hotels 163 Parque Nacional de Garajonay (La Monumento al Campesino
restaurants 175 Gomera) 130-31 (Lanzarote) 90
Los Lobos see Isla de Los Lobos Parque Nacional del Teide Monumento de los Caídos (Santa
Los Organos (La Gomera) 127, 128 (Tenerife) 118-19 Cruz de Tenerife) 100
Los Realejos (Tenerife) 106-7 Puerto de la Cruz (Tenerife) 113 Moore, Henry 102
restaurants 173 Ruta de los Volcanes (La Palma) Morales, Tomás 55
Los Roques (La Gomera) 131 149 Morro Jable (Fuerteventura) 76, 79
Los Roques de García (Tenerife) 118 Santa Cruz de La Palma 145 hotels 158-9
Los Sauces (La Palma) 146-7 Santa Cruz de Tenerife 101 Mountain biking 22, 181, 183
Los Silos (Tenerife) 116 Tenerife 98-9 Moya (Gran Canaria) 55
Los Tilos (La Palma) 146 March, Manuel Vega 54 MPAIC movement 35
Lucha Canaria 23, 26, 139 Mariposario del Drago (Icod de los Muelle Santa Catalina (Las Palmas de
Lugo, Alonso Fernándo de 145, 147 Vinos) 107 Gran Canaria) 50
Luján Pérez, José 55 Markets 177 Mundo Aborigen (Gran Canaria) 31, 61
Catedral de Santa Ana (Las Palmas Mercado de Nuestra Señora de Murillo, Bartolomé 107
de Gran Canaria) 48 África (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) 101 Museo see Museums and galleries
Iglesia de la Concepción (La Marrero, José Enrique 100 Museums and galleries
Orotava) 108 Martin III, Pope 74 Casa de los Balcones (La Orotava)
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Masca (Tenerife) 98, 116 110
Peña de Francia (Puerto de la Maspalomas (Gran Canaria) 42, 60-61 Casa de Colón (Las Palmas de
Cruz, Tenerife) 112 beaches 35, 40, 59 Gran Canaria) 45, 46-7
Iglesia San Juan Bautista (La hotels 156 Casa de la Cultura (Garachico)
Orotava) 110 restaurants 169 107
Nuestra Señora de la Concepción soccer tournament 27 Casa Museo del Campesino
(Santa Cruz de Tenerife) 100 Masqueraders 21 (Lanzarote) 90
San Nicolás (San Nicolás de Mazo (La Palma) 148 Casa Museo de los Patrones de la
Tolentino) 58 hotels 163 Virgen (Teror) 53
Santiago de los Caballeros (Gáldar) Medical care 191 Casa Museo Pérez Galdós (Las
57 Medina, Nicolas 74 Palmas de Gran Canaria) 49
Lutzardo de Francha, Juan Antonio Mercado see Markets Casa Museo Tomás Morales (Moya) 55
112 Mirador de Abrante (La Gomera) 127 Casa Museo de Unamuno (Puerto
Mirador de los Andenes (La Palma) 151 del Rosario) 70
M Mirador el Bailadero (La Gomera) 131 Casa Torrehermosa (La Orotava) 110
Macizo de Teno (Tenerife) 116 Mirador del Balcón (Gran Canaria) 58 Centro de Arte Canario (La Oliva) 72
Malocello, Lanzarotto 29, 81 Mirador de las Barrandas (La Palma) Centro de Artesanía Molinos de
Malpaís 13 146 Antigua (Antigua) 73
Malpaís Chico (Fuerteventura) 78-9 Mirador de Basco (El Hierro) 137 Centro Atlántico de Arte Moderno
Malpaís de la Corona (Lanzarote) 87 Mirador la Graciosa (Lanzarote) 88 (CAAM) (Las Palmas de Gran
Malpaís Grande (Fuerteventura) 78-9 Mirador de Guriete (Gran Canaria) 64 Canaria) 45, 48
Malvasía wine 12, 95 Mirador de Haría (Lanzarote) 88 Centro Cientifíco Cultural (Arrecife)
Mancha Blanca (Lanzarote) 26 Mirador de la Hila (La Gomera) 126 84
Manrique, César 38, 81, 85 Mirador de Humboldt (Tenerife) 111 Centro de Interpretación de los
Castillo de San José (Arrecife) 84 Mirador de Isora (El Hierro) 139 Molinos (Tiscamanita) 73
Centro de Artesanía Molinos de Mirador de Jinama (El Hierro) 139 Ecomuseo de la Alcogida (Tefía) 73
Antigua 73 Mirador de La Peña (El Hierro) 136 Ecomuseo de Guinea (El Hierro)
Fundación César Manrique Mirador de Morro Velosa 136-7
(Tahiche) 82, 85 (Fuerteventura) 74 Museo Agrícola El Patio (Tiagua)
Jameos del Agua (Lanzarote) 86 Mirador Pico del Inglés (Tenerife) 90
Jardín de Cactus (Guatiza) 86 104, 105 Museo Arqueológico (Betancuria)
Lago Martiánez (Puerto de la Cruz, Mirador de las Playas (El Hierro) 138, 74
Tenerife) 113 139 Museo Arqueológico (Puerto de la
Mirador de La Peña (El Hierro) 136 Mirador del Río (Lanzarote) 88 Cruz, Tenerife) 112-13
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 203

Museums and galleries (cont) Newspapers 193 Parks and gardens (cont)
Museo Arqueológico y Etnográfico Nicolás, Diego 108 Parque García Sanabria (Santa Cruz
(Arrecife) 84 Nightlife 178 de Tenerife) 102
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo La Niña, model and reconstruction 46 Parque Marítimo (Santa Cruz de
(Garachico) 107 Nova Gimón, Alonso de 113 Tenerife) 102
Museo de Arte Sacro (Betancuria) 74 Parque Natural de Betancuria 74
Museo de Arte Sacro (Icod de los O Parque Natural de las Dunas de
Vinos) 107 Olsen, Fred 121 Corralejo (Fuerteventura) 70
Museo de Artesanía Opening hours 189 Parque Naturel de Jandía 76
Iberoamericana (La Orotava) 111 restaurants 164-5 Parque Paraíso de las Aves (La
Museo de Bellas Artes (Santa Cruz shops 176 Palma) 148
de Tenerife) 101 Opera 27 Parque San Telmo (Las Palmas de
Museo Canario (Las Palmas de Orchids 39, 61 Gran Canaria) 49
Gran Canaria) 44, 48, 57 Orzola (Lanzarote) 87 Parque Santa Catalina (Las Palmas
Museo del Castillo de la Fortaleza de Gran Canaria) 50-51
(Santa Lucía) 64 P Parque Taoro (Puerto de la Cruz,
Museo de Cerámica (La Orotava) 111 Paisaje Lunar (Tenerife) 120 Tenerife) 113
Museo de Corpus (Mazo) 148 Pájara (Fuerteventura) 33, 75 Parque Tropical (Guinate) 39, 88
Museo Diocesano de Arte Sacro (Las restaurants 171 Vallehermoso 127
Palmas de Gran Canaria) 45, 48 Palaces Zoo Parque de los Camellos (La
Museo del Emigrante Canario Palacio de Carta (Santa Cruz de Lajita) 75
(Teguise) 89 Tenerife) 100 see also National parks; Zoos
Museo Etnográfico Tanit (San Palacio de los Condes de la Parque Nacional see National parks
Bartolomé) 90 Gomera (Garachico) 107 Penguin House, Loro Parque (Puerto
Museo del Grano (La Oliva) 72 Palacio Episcopal (La Laguna) 103 de la Cruz, Tenerife) 115
Museo de Historia de Tenerife (La Palacio Municipal (La Orotava) 109 Península de Jandía (Fuerteventura)
Laguna) 103 Palacio de Nava (La Laguna) 103 76, 78
Museo Insular (Santa Cruz de La Palacio de Salazar (Santa Cruz de Peraza, Hernán 126
Palma) 145 La Palma) 144 Pérez Galdós, Benito 49
Museo Internacional de Arte Palacio Spínola (Teguise) 89 Personal security 190-91
Contemporáneo (Arrecife) 84 Palacio see Palaces Petrol 197
Museo Militar de Canarias (Santa Palmetum (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) Pharmacies 191
Cruz de Tenerife) 102 102 Philip II, King of Spain 144
Museo de la Naturaleza y el Palmitos Parque (Gran Canaria) 39, Picasso, Pablo 85
Hombre (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) 61, 178 Pico de Bandama (Gran Canaria) 52
31, 100 Paradors 154 Pico de la Cruz (La Palma) 141, 151
Museo Naval (Santa Cruz de La del Hierro 139 Pico de las Nieves (Gran Canaria) 41,
Palma) 145 de San Sebastián (La Gomera) 124, 62-3
Museo de Panchillo (El Hierro) 139 126 Pico Portido (Lanzarote) 92
Museo de Piedras y Artesanía Paragliding see Hang-gliding and Pico del Teide 38, 96, 118-19
(Ingenio) 64 paragliding Feast of the Teide Volcano 26
Museo del Vino de Lanzarote 95 Parking 196 Pico Viejo (Tenerife) 118
Parque Cultural La Zarza (La Parks and gardens Pico de Zarza (Fuerteventura) 76
Palma) 147 Arucas 54 ‘Pino Gordo’ (Vilaflor) 120
Parque Etnográfico Pirámides de Cactualdea (San Nicolás de La Pinta, model of 46
Güimar 121 Tolentino) 58 Pintor, Antonio 127
El Pueblo Guanche (La Orotava) Casa de Santa María (Betancuria) Piscinas de Fajana (La Palma) 147
108 69 Pius XII, Pope 53
Music 179 Hijuela del Botánico (La Orotava) Plato 29
festivals 24-7 109 Playa, see also Beaches
Huerto de las Flores (Agaete) 57 Playa de las Américas (Tenerife) 97,
N Jardín Botánico (Puerto de la Cruz, 117
National parks Tenerife) 109, 113 beaches 99, 120
Dunas de Maspalomas (Gran Jardín Botánico Canario (Gran hotels 161
Canaria) 60 Canaria) 52 restaurants 173
Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Jardín de Cactus (Guatiza) 86 Playa Blanca (Lanzarote) 91
Taburiente (La Palma) 140, 150-51 Jardín Risco Bello Acuático (Puerto hotels 159
Parque Nacional de Garajonay (La de la Cruz, Tenerife) 113 restaurants 172
Gomera) 123, 130-31 Jardín Victoria (La Orotava) 111 Playa del Confital (Tenerife) 121
Parque Nacional del Teide Loro Parque (Puerto de la Cruz, Playa del Cura (Gran Canaria) 59
(Tenerife) 118-19 Tenerife) 114-15, 178 Playa del Inglés (Gran Canaria) 42, 60
Parque Nacional de Timanfaya Palmetum (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) beaches 58, 59
(Lanzarote) 81, 92-3, 172 102 hotels 157
Parque Natural de las Dunas Palmitos Parque (Gran Canaria) 39, Playa de Santiago (La Gomera) 129
(Fuerteventura) 70 61, 178 hotels 162
Nature reserve, Los Ajaches Parque de los Cocodrilos restaurants 174
(Lanzarote) 91 (Agüimes) 64 Police 190, 191
Naviera Armas 195 Parque Cultural La Zarza (La Ponte del Castillo, Diego 111
Nazaret (Lanzarote) 171 Palma) 147 Population 10
Nelson, Admiral Horatio Parque Doramas (Las Palmas de Postal services 192, 193
defeat at Santa Cruz de Tenerife Gran Canaria) 50 Pottery 18
25, 33 Parque Ecológico Las Aguilas Poubrus, Pieter 147
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la (Tenerife) 117 Pozo de las Calcosas (El Hierro) 136
Concepción 100 Parque Etnográfico Pirámides de Pozo de Colón (San Sebastián de La
Museo Militar de Canarias 102 Güimar 121 Gomera) 126
204 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Pozo del Diablo (Betancuria) 74 Restaurants 164-75 San Sebastián de La Gomera (cont)
Pozo de la Salud (El Hierro) 137 booking 165 hotels 162
Prado (Madrid) 101 children in 188 restaurants 174
Pre-Columbian art El Hierro 175 sand-sculpting 70, 71
Casa de Colón (Las Palmas de Fuerteventura 170-71 Santa Brígida (Gran Canaria) 52
Gran Canaria) 47 Gran Canaria 168-70 restaurants 170
Museo de la Naturaleza y el La Gomera 174-5 Santa Catalina District (Las Palmas de
Hombre (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) La Palma 175 Gran Canaria) 50
100 Lanzarote 171-2 Santa Catalina Hotel (Las Palmas de
Presa de los Hornos (Gran Canaria) paying 165 Gran Canaria) 50
42, 63 prices 165 Santa Cruz de La Palma 142, 144-5
Ptolemy 29, 138 Tenerife 172-4 Bajada de Nuestra Señora de las
Public holidays 27 tipping 165 Nieves 25
Pubs 178 vegetarian food 165 hotels 163
Pueblo Canario (Las Palmas de Gran what to eat 164, 166-7 map 145
Canaria) 50 when to eat 164-5 replica of Santa Maria 38
El Pueblo Guanche (La Orotava) 108 where to eat 164 restaurants 175
Pueblo Majorero (Caleto de Fustes) Ribera, José de 101 Santa Cruz de Tenerife 25, 100-2, 104
79 Rivera, Primo de 71 carnival 20-21
Puerto Calero (Lanzarote) 95 Road travel 196-7 history 32-4
Puerto de la Cruz (Fuerteventura) 76 Rock paintings and carvings 30 hotels 161
Puerto de la Cruz (Tenerife) 112-13 La Zarza (La Palma) 147 map 101
hotels 161 Roque Bentaiga (Gran Canaria) 62 restaurants 173-4
International Ecological Film Rodríguez, Ventury 108 Santa Lucía (Gran Canaria) 64
Festival 26 Rodríguez y Gonzáles, Juán 73 Santa Maria
map 113 Roque de las Animas (Tenerife) 104 model of (Las Palmas de Gran
restaurants 173 Roque Bentayga (Gran Canaria) 62 Canaria) 46
Puerto de la Estaca (El Hierro) 134, Roque de las Bodegas (Tenerife) 105 replica of (Santa Cruz de La Palma)
139 Roque de la Bonanza (El Hierro) 139 38, 145
Puerto de la Luz (Fuerteventura) 78 Roque Cano (La Gomera) 127 Santa María de Betancuria see
Puerto de las Nieves (Gran Canaria) 57 Roque Cinchado (Tenerife) 119 Betancuria
Puerto de Mogán (Gran Canaria) 41, Roque del Este 87 Santa María de Guía de Gran Canaria
58-9 Roque de los Muchachos (La Palma) 24, 55
Puerto de Santiago (Tenerife) 117 143, 150-51 Santiago del Teide (Tenerife) 116
Puerto del Carmen (Lanzarote) 94, 95 Roque Nublo (Gran Canaria) 24, 62 restaurants 174
hotels 159 Roques de Salmor 136 Santuario see Churches
restaurants 172 Rum production 56 Sanza y Carta, Valentín 101
Puerto del Rosario (Fuerteventura) 70 factory, Arucas 54 Sardina (Gran Canaria) 43, 57
restaurants 171 Ruta de los Volcanes (La Palma) 149 Sardine’s Funeral 21
Puerto Naos (La Palma) 148 Ruta de los Volcanes (Lanzarote) 93 Sea horses 16
hotels 163 Sea life 16-17
Puerto Pesquero (Puerto de la Cruz, S Sea travel 194, 195
Tenerife) 112 Sabinosa (El Hierro) 137, 162 Self-catering accommodation 154
Puerto Rico (Gran Canaria) 39, 60 Safety belts 197 Semana Santa 24
beach 59 Sailing 23, 181, 183 Shark Aquarium, Loro Parque (Puerto
marina 36-7 St Lucia (de Amberes) 47 de la Cruz, Tenerife) 115
Punta de Aguila (Lanzarote) 91 Saints’ Days 24-7 Shopping 176-7
Punta Cumplida (La Palma) 147 Sainz de Oiza, Francisco 48 art and handicrafts 177
Punta de la Entallada (Fuerteventura) Salinas de Janubio (Lanzarote) 91 food and drink 177
78 Salt production 91 how to pay 176
Punta Fuencaliente (La Palma) 148 San Agustín (Gran Canaria) markets and bazaars 177
Punta del Hidalgo (Tenerife) 106 hotels 157 opening hours 176
Punta de Mujeres (Lanzarote) 87 restaurants 170 where to buy 176
Punta Roja (Tenerife) 120 San Andrés (El Hierro) 139 El Siblo Gomera 127, 128
Punta del Viento (Puerto de la Cruz, San Andrés (La Palma) 146-7 Sightseeing tours 188
Tenerife) 112 San Andrés (Tenerife) 105 Snorkelling see Diving and
Puntallana (La Gomera), Bajada de la San Augustín (Gran Canaria) 59, 60 snorkelling
Virgen de Guadelupe 26 San Bartolomé de Tirajana (Gran Soccer 23
Puntallana (La Palma) 147 Canaria) 61, 63 Soto, Jesús 85, 90
Pyramids (Güimar) 121 hotels 157 Spanish Civil War 35
restaurants 170 Monument (Moya) 55
Q, R San Bartolomé (Lanzarote) 82, 90 Monumento de los Caídos (Santa
Queso de flor 55 festival 25 Cruz de Tenerife) 100
Radio 193 San Fernando (Gran Canaria) 170 Spanish conquest 32
Rainfall 26 San Fernando University (La Laguna) Speed limits 197
Rambla del General Franco (Santa 103 Sports 22-3
Cruz de Tenerife) 102 San Isidro (Tenerife) 173 calendar of events 24-7
Rasmos, Manuel 54 San Juan de la Rambla (Tenerife) cycling 22, 181, 183
Real Club Náutico (Las Palmas de 173 diving and snorkelling 17, 23, 182,
Gran Canaria) 50 San Marcial del Rubicón (Lanzarote) 91 183
Refugio de Altavista (Tenerife) 119 San Nicolás (La Palma) 26 fishing 181, 183
Refugio del Pilar (La Palma) 149 San Sebastián de La Gomera 123, 126 golf 22, 180, 183
Rejón, Juan 32 attacked by British fleet 33 hang-gliding and paragliding 182,
Religion 189 beach 125 183
Reni, Guido 47 Columbus Week 26 hiking 180
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 205

Sports (cont) Theatres (cont) Vega de San Mateo (Gran Canaria) 53

horse riding 181, 183 Teatro Pérez Galdós (Las Palmas hotels 157
jogging 180 de Gran Canaria) 49, 179 restaurants 170
outdoor activities 180-3 Theft 190 Vegetarian food 165
sailing 23, 181, 183 Theme parks Vera, Juana 52
sources of information 183 Aquasur (Maspalomas) 60, 61 Vera, Pedro de 41
spectator sports 22-3 Holiday World (Maspalomas) 60 Viera y Clavijo, José de 48, 52
surfing 22, 182 Sioux City (Gran Canaria) 61 Vilaflor (Tenerife) 120
tennis 180 Tiagua (Lanzarote) 90 Visas 186
water motorsports 182 Tigaday (El Hierro) 136 Volcán Martín (La Palma) 149
windsurfing 23, 182, 183 El Tigre (cannon) 102 Volcanic grill (Lanzarote) 93
Street parades 20 Time zones 189 Volcanoes 12-13
Student travel 188, 189 Timple (musical instrument) 19, 111 Montañas del Fuego (Lanzarote) 92-3
Sugar industry 32 Tipping, in restaurants 165 Pico del Teide (Tenerife) 97, 118-
Sunshine 25, 190 Tiscamanita (Fuerteventura) 73 19
Surfing 22, 182 Torre del Conde (San Sebastián de La Ruta de los Volcanes (La Palma) 149
Sventenius, Eric 52 Gomera) 126 Ruta de los Volcanes (Lanzarote) 93
Torre, Miguel Martín Fernández de la 49 Volleyball 23
T Torre, Néstor Martín Fernández de la Vueltas (La Gomera) 128
Tacoronte (Tenerife) 106 48, 49, 50
restaurants 174 Torriani, Leonardo 32, 84 W
Taganana (Tenerife) 104 Torviscas Beach (Playa de las Walks and tours
Tahiche (Lanzarote) 85 Américas) 117 Amaga Mountains (Tenerife) 104-5
Fundación César Manrique 82, Touring itineraries see Walks and tours Around Pico de las Nieves (Gran
85 Tourism 35 Canaria) 62-3
Taibique (El Hierro) 139 Tourist information 187 Ruta de los Volcanes (La Palma) 149
Tamaduste (El Hierro) 136 Traffic regulations 197 Water, drinking 189
Tapiès, Antonio 85 Transport 196-7 Water parks 178
Tarifa Alta (Gran Canaria) 52 Trasmediterranea 195 Aquasur (Maspalomas) 60, 61
hotels 157 Travel 194-7 Water sports
Taro de Tahiche (Tahiche) 85 air travel 194-5 hazards 190-91
Taurito (Gran Canaria) 58 buses 196 motorsports 182
hotels 157 car hire 196-7 Weaving 19
Taxis 196 ferries 195 Whales 16
Tazacorte (La Palma) 147, 163 getting there 194 Whistle language see Siblo Gomera
restaurants 175 island-hopping 194-5 Wildlife
Teatro see Theatres maps, buying 197 Sea-life 16-17
Tefía (Fuerteventura) 73 petrol 197 see also Zoos
Teguise (Lanzarote) 81, 88-9 road travel 196-7 Wind farms, Parque Eólico de
restaurants 172 sea travel 194, 195 Granadilla (Tenerife) 120
Teguise, Princess 88 taxis 196 Windmills 77
Teide see Pico del Teide Trees and shrubs 14-15 Centro de Artesanía Molinos de
Tejeda (Gran Canaria) 24, 62 Arbol Santo (El Hierro) 139 Antigua 73
Telde (Gran Canaria) 65 Dragon trees 14, 107, 129 Centro de Interpretatión de los
Telde (Lanzarote) 19 Juniper trees 134 Molinos (Tiscamanita) 73
Telephones 192 Laurel groves 130 Windsurfing 23, 182, 183
Television 193 ‘Pino Gordo’ (Vilafor) 120 in Tenerife 120-21
Temperatures 27 Triana District (Las Palmas de Gran Wine production 94-5, 106
Templo Ecuménico (Maspalomas) Canaria) 49 history 33
60 Triathlon 22-3 Winter, Gustav 76
Tenerife 96-121 El Triunfo de la Candelaria (Santa Womad 179
airports 195 Cruz de Tenerife) 100
beaches 120-21 Tumulo de la Guancha (Gran Canaria) 57 Y
carnival 98 Tusquet, Oscar 51 Yaiza (Lanzarote) 90-91
climate 97 hotels 160
getting there 98 U restaurants 172
hotels 160-61 Uga (Lanzarote) 24, 91, 94 Youth travel 188, 189
landscape 97 Unamuno, Miguel 63, 71 Yumbo (Maspalomas) 60
map 98-9 bust of (Tefía) 73
population 97 Casa Museo de Unamuno 70 Z
restaurants 172-4 UNESCO 81, 130, 146 Zadivar, Enrique César 100
satellite picture 10 Urbanizacíon Famara (Lanzarote) 89 Zoos
tourism 97 Loro Parque (Puerto de la Cruz,
Tennis 180 V Tenerife) 114-15, 178
Teror (Gran Canaria) 26, 53 Vaga de Río Palmas (Fuertventura) 75 Mariposario del Drago (Icod de los
Tetir (Fuerteventura) 73 Valle Gran Rey (La Gomera) 122, 128 Vinos) 107
Theatre 178 hotels 162 Parque de los Cocodrilos
festivals 26, 179 restaurants 175 (Agüimes) 64
Theatres Vallehermoso (La Gomera) 127 Parque Ecológico Las Aguilas
Teatro Casa de la Cultura (Santa Valsequillo (Gran Canaria) 24 (Tenerife) 117
Cruz de Tenerife) 179 Valverde (El Hierro) 136 Parque Paraíso de las Aves (La
Teatro Guimerá (Santa Cruz de Bajada de la Virgen de los Reyes Palma) 148
Tenerife) 179 25, 137 Parque Tropical (Guinate) 88
Teatro Guiniguada (Las Palmas de hotels 162-3 Zoo Parque de los Camellos (La
Gran Canaria) 179 restaurants 175 Lajita) 75
206 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

Acknowledgments
WIEDZA I ˚YCIE would like to thank the following people Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders.
for their contribution to the preparation of this guide: Dorling Kindersley apologizes for any unintentional
Jürgen Bingel, Magdalena Borz´cka, Zbigniew Dybowski, omissions and would be pleased, in such cases, to add an
Joanna Egert-Romanowska, Daniel Poch, Javier Lopez acknowledgment in future editions.
Silvosa, Damian Sosa.
AFP: 22c. ALAMY IMAGES: Peter Titmuss 176cl.
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 P H R A S E B O O K 207

Phrase Book
IN AN E MERGENCY late tarde tahr-deh
Help! ¡Socorro! soh-koh-roh entrance entrada ehn-trah-dah
Stop! ¡Pare! pah-reh exit salida sah-lee-dah
Call a doctor! ¡Llame a un yah-meh ah oon toilet lavabos, lah-vah-bohs
médico! meh-dee-koh servicios sehr-bee-thee-ohs
Call an ambulance! ¡Llame a una yah-meh ah oonah more más mahs
ambulancia! ahm-boo-lahn- less menos meh-nohs
thee-ah S HOPPING
Call the police! ¡Llame a la yah-meh ah lah
policía! poh-lee-thee-ah How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
Call the fire brigade! ¡Llame a los yah-meh ah lohs does this cost? cuesta esto? kwehs-tah ehs-toh
bomberos! bohm-beh-rohs I would like . . . Me gustaría . . . meh goos-ta-ree-ah
Where is the nearest ¿Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs tah Do you have? ¿Tiene? tee-yeh-nehn
telephone? teléfono más ehl teh-leh-foh-noh
h I’m just Sólo estoy soh-loh ehs-toy
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- looking. mirando, gracias. mee-rahn-doh
moh grah-thee-ahs
Where is the nearest ¿Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs-tah Do you take ¿Aceptan ah-thehp-tahn
hospital? hospital más ehl ohs-pee-tahl credit cards? tarjetas de tahr-heh-tahs deh
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- crédito? kreh-dee-toh
moh What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
do you open? abren? ah-brehn
C OMMUNICATION E SSENTIALS What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
do you close? cierran? thee-ehr-rahn
Yes Sí see This one. Éste ehs-teh
No No noh That one. Ése eh-seh
Please Por favor pohr fah-vohr expensive caro kahr-oh
Thank you Gracias grah-thee-ahs cheap barato bah-rah-toh
Excuse me Perdone pehr-doh-neh size, clothes talla tah-yah
Hello Hola oh-lah size, shoes número noo-mehr-oh
Goodbye Adiós ah-dee-ohs white blanco blahn-koh
Good night Buenas noches bweh-nahs noh- black negro neh-groh
chehs red rojo roh-hoh
Morning La mañana lah mah-nyah-nah yellow amarillo ah-mah-ree-yoh
Afternoon La tarde lah tahr-deh green verde behr-deh
Evening La tarde lah tahr-deh blue azul ah-thool
Yesterday Ayer ah-yehr antiques shop la tienda de lah tee-ehn-dah
Today Hoy oy antigüedades deh ahn-tee gweh-
Tomorrow Mañana mah-nya-nah dah-dehs
Here Aquí ah-kee bakery la panadería lah pah-nah-deh
There Allí ah-yee ree-ah
What? ¿Qué? keh bank el banco ehl bahn-koh
When? ¿Cuándo? kwahn-doh book shop la librería lah lee-breh-ree-ah
Why? ¿Por qué? pohr-keh butcher’s la carnicería lah kahr-nee-theh-
Where? ¿Dónde? dohn-deh ree-ah
cake shop la pastelería lah pahs-teh-leh
U SEFUL P HRASES ree-ah
How are you? ¿Cómo está koh-moh ehs-tah chemist’s la farmacia lah fahr-mah-
usted? oos-tehd thee-ah
Very well, Muy bien, mwee bee-ehn fishmonger’s la pescadería lah pehs-kah-deh-
thank you. gracias. grah-thee-ahs ree-ah
Pleased to Encantado de ehn-kahn-tah-doh greengrocer’s la frutería lah froo-teh-ree-ah
meet you. conocerle. deh koh-noh- grocer’s la tienda de lah tee-yehn-dah
thehr-leh comestibles deh koh-mehs-
See you soon. Hasta pronto. ahs-tah prohn-toh tee-blehs
That’s fine. Está bien. ehs-tah bee-ehn hairdresser’s la peluquería lah peh-loo-keh-
Where is/are . . .? ¿Dónde dohn-deh ehs- ree-ah
está/están . . .? tah/ehs-tahn market el mercado ehl mehr-kah-doh
How far is it to . . .? Cuántos metros/ kwahn-tohs meh- newsagent’s el kiosko ehl kee-ohs-koh
kilómetros hay trohs/kee-loh- de prensa deh prehn-sah
de aquí a . . .? meh-trohs post office la oficina de lah oh-fee-thee-nah
eye deh ah-kee ah correos deh kohr-reh-ohs
Which ¿Por dónde pohr dohn-deh shoe shop la zapatería lah thah-pah-teh-
way to . . .? se va a . . .? seh bah ah ree-ah
Do you speak ¿Habla ah-blah supermarket el supermercado ehl soo-pehr-mehr-
English? inglés? een-glehs kah-doh
I don’t understand No comprendo noh tobacconist el estanco ehl ehs-tahn-koh
kohm-prehn-doh travel agency la agencia de lah ah-hehn-thee-
n
Could you ¿Puede pweh-deh viajes ah deh bee-ah-
speak more hablar ah-blahr hehs
slowly please? más despacio mahs dehs-pah-
por favor? thee-oh S IGHTSEEING
pohr fah-vohr
I’m sorry. Lo siento. loh see-ehn-toh art gallery el museo de arte ehl moo-seh-oh
deh ahr-teh
cathedral la catedral lah kah-teh-drahl
U SEFUL W ORDS church la iglesia lah ee-gleh-see-ah
big grande grahn-deh la basílica lah bah-see-lee-kah
small pequeño peh-keh-nyoh garden el jardín ehl hahr-deen
hot caliente kah-lee-ehn-teh library la biblioteca lah bee-blee-oh-
cold frío free-oh teh-kah
good bueno bweh-noh museum el museo ehl moo-seh-oh
bad malo mah-loh tourist la oficina de lah oh-fee-thee
enough bastante bahs-tahn-teh information turismo nah deh too-rees-
well bien bee-ehn office moh
open abierto ah-bee-ehr-toh town hall el ayuntamiento ehl ah-yoon-tah-
closed cerrado thehr-rah-doh mee-ehn-toh
left izquierda eeth-key-ehr-dah closed for cerrado por thehr-rah-doh pohr
right derecha deh-reh-chah holiday vacaciones bah-kah-thee-
straight on derecho toh-doh rehk-toh oh-nehs
near cerca thehr-kah bus station la estación de lah ehs-tah-thee-
far lejos leh-hohs autobuses ohn deh owtoh-
up arriba ah-ree-bah boo-sehs
down abajo ah-bah-hoh railway la estación lah ehs-tah-thee-
early temprano tehm-prah-noh station de trenes ohn deh treh-nehs
h
208 P H R A S E B O O K

S TAYING IN A H OTEL
Do you ¿Tiene tee-eh-neh el jerez heh-rehz sherry
have una oo-nah la langosta lahn-gohs-tah lobster
a vacant habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- la leche leh-cheh milk
room? libre? ohn lee-breh el limón lee-mohn lemon
double habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- la limonada lee-moh-nah-dah lemonade
room doble ohn doh-bleh la mantequilla mahn-teh-kee-yah butter
with double con cama de kohn kah-mah deh la manzana mahn-thah-nah apple
bed matrimonio mah-tree-moh- los mariscos mah-rees-kohs seafood
nee-oh la menestra meh-nehs-trah vegetable stew
twin room habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- la naranja nah-rahn-hah orange
con dos camas ohn kohn dohs el pan pahn bread
kah-mahs el pastel pahs-tehl cake
single room habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- las patatas pah-tah-tahs potatoes
individual ohn een-dee-vee- el pescado pehs-kah-doh fish
doo-ahl la pimienta pee-mee-yehn-tah pepper
room with habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- el plátano plah-tah-noh banana
a bath con baño ohn kohn bah- el pollo poh-yoh chicken
nyoh el postre pohs-treh dessert
shower ducha doo-chah el queso keh-soh cheese
porter portero ehl boh-toh-nehs la sal sahl salt
key la llave lah yah-veh las salchichas sahl-chee-chahs sausages
I have a Tengo una tehn-goh oo-na la salsa sahl-sah sauce
reservation. habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- seco seh-koh dry
reservada. ohn reh-sehr- el solomillo soh-loh-mee-yoh sirloin
bah-dah la sopa soh-pah soup
la tarta tahr-tah pie/cake
E ATING O UT el té teh tea
la ternera tehr-neh-rah veal
Have you ¿Tiene tee-eh-neh las tostadas tohs-tah-dahs toast
got a table mesa meh-sah el vinagre bee-nah-greh vinegar
for . . .? para . . .? pah-rah el vino blanco bee-noh blahn-koh white wine
I want to Quiero kee-eh-roh el vino rosado bee-noh rosé wine
reserve reservar reh-sehr-bahr roh-sah-doh
a table. una mesa. oo-nah meh-sah el vino tinto bee-noh teen-toh red wine
The bill La cuenta lah kwehn-tah
please. por favor. pohr fah-vohr
I am a Soy soy beh-heh-tah- N UMBERS
vegetarian vegetariano/a ree-ah-no/na 0 cero theh-roh
waitress/ camarera/ kah-mah-reh-rah 1 uno oo-noh
waiter camarero kah-mah-reh-roh 2 dos dohs
menu la carta lah kahr-tah 3 tres trehs
fixed-price menú del meh-noo dehl 4 cuatro kwa-troh
menu día dee-ah 5 cinco theen-koh
wine list la carta de lah kahr-tah deh 6 seis says
vinos bee-nohs 7 siete see-eh-teh
glass un vaso oon bah-soh 8 ocho oh-choh
bottle una botella oo-nah boh-teh-yah
h 9 nueve nweh-veh
knife un cuchillo oon koo-chee-yoh 10 diez dee-ehth
fork un tenedor oon teh-neh-dohr 11 once ohn-theh
spoon una cuchara oo-nah koo- 12 doce doh-theh
chah-rah 13 trece treh-theh
breakfast el desayuno ehl deh-sah- 14 catorce kah-tohr-theh
yoo-noh 15 quince keen-theh
lunch la comida/ lah koh-mee-dah/ 16 dieciséis dee-eh-thee-seh-
h ees
el almuerzo ehl ahl-mwehr- 17 diecisiete dee-eh-thee-see-
thoh eh-teh
dinner la cena lah theh-nah 18 dieciocho dee-eh-thee-oh-choh
h
main course el primer plato ehl pree-mehr 19 diecinueve dee-eh-thee-
plah-toh nweh-veh
starters los entremeses lohs ehn-treh- 20 veinte beh-een-teh
meh-sehs 21 veintiuno beh-een-tee-oo-noh
dish of the day el plato del día ehl plah-toh dehl 22 veintidós beh-een-tee-dohs
dee-ah 30 treinta treh-een-tah
coffee el café ehl kah-feh 31 treinta y uno treh-een-tah ee
rare (meat) poco hecho poh-koh eh-choh oo-noh
medium medio hecho meh-dee-oh 40 cuarenta kwah-rehn-tah
eh-choh 50 cincuenta theen-kwehn-tah
well done muy hecho mwee eh-choh 60 sesenta seh-sehn-tah
70 setenta seh-tehn-tah
M ENU D ECODER 80 ochenta oh-chehn-tah
al horno ahl ohr-noh baked 90 noventa noh-vehn-tah
asado ah-sah-doh roast 100 cien thee-ehn
el aceite ah-thee-eh-teh oil 101 ciento uno thee-ehn-toh oo-
las aceitunas ah-theh-toon-ahs olives noh
el agua mineral ah-gwa mineral water 102 ciento dos thee-ehn-toh dohs
mee-neh-rahl 200 doscientos dohs-thee-ehn-
sin gas/con gas seen gas/kohn gas still/sparkling tohs
el ajo ah-hoh garlic 500 quinientos khee-nee-ehn-tohs
el arroz ahr-rohth rice 700 setecientos seh-teh-thee-ehn-
el azúcar ah-thoo-kahr sugar tohs
la carne kahr-neh meat 900 novecientos noh-veh-thee-ehn
la cebolla theh-boh-yah onion tohs
el cerdo therh-doh pork 1,000 mil meel
la cerveza thehr-beh-thah beer 1,001 mil uno meel oo-noh
el chocolate choh-koh-lah-teh chocolate
el chorizo choh-ree-thoh spicy sausage T IME
el cordero kohr-deh-roh lamb
el fiambre fee-ahm-breh cold meat one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
frito free-toh fried one hour una hora oo-na oh-rah
la fruta froo-tah fruit half an hour media hora meh-dee-a oh-rah
los frutos secos froo-tohs seh-kohs nuts Monday lunes loo-nehs
las gambas gahm-bahs prawns Tuesday martes mahr-tehs
el helado eh-lah-doh ice cream Wednesday miércoles mee-ehr-koh-lehs
el huevo oo-eh-voh egg Thursday jueves hoo-weh-vehs
el jamón serrano hah-mohn cured ham Friday viernes bee-ehr-nehs
sehr-rah-noh Saturday sábado sah-bah-doh
Sunday domingo doh-meen-goh
Canary Island Ferry Routes

LA PALMA

d La Palma
de
k

LA GOMERA San Sebastián

Sa
TENERIFE

Puerto
uerto de la Estaca
E

EL HIERRO Atlantic Ocean

F ERRY L INES
TRASMEDITERRANEA Fuerteventura
∑ www.trasmediterranea.es Puerto del Rosario
§ 902 454 645. § 928 851 542.
Morro Jable
LÍNEAS FRED OLSEN § 928 542 113.
∑ www.fredolsen.es Corralejo 0 km 30
§ 902 100 107. § 928 867 080.
Tenerife Lanzarote 0 miles 30
Santa Cruz de Tenerife Arrecife
§ 922 628 200. § 928 824 931.
Los Cristianos
§ 922 790 215.
Playa Blanca K EY
§ 928 517 912.
La Gomera
Tenerife
Ferry route
San Sebastián de La Gomera
Santa Cruz de Tenerife
§ 922 871 007. Motorway/Highway
§ 922 534 050.
La Palma Major road
La Palma
Santa Cruz de La Palma
Santa Cruz de La Palma
§ 922 415 433. Other road
§ 922 411 445.
NAVIERA ARMAS Major ferry port
∑ www.navieraarmas.com LÍNEAS MARÍTIMAS ROMERO
Gran Canaria ∑ www.lineas-romero.com k Airport
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria La Graciosa
§ 928 300 600. § 928 842 070. See also information for
the individual islands
 Cadiz ISLA DE ALEGRANZA

ISLA DE MONTAπA CLARA

ISLA GRACIOSA

Atlantic Ocean

LANZAROTE A
Arre
Arrecife

Play
aya
ay
ya Blanca
a

ISLA DE LLOSS
LOBOS
O

FUERTEVENTURA
Pu
ue
u errto
e to del Rosario
io

LLas Palmas
de
d e Gran Canaria

GRAN CANARIA

T RAVELLING T IMES FOR S ELECTED R OUTES

FERRY JOURNEY
Arrecife – Las Palmas de Gran Canaria 7 hrs. Puerto del Rosario – Las Palmas de Gran
Arrecife – Puerto del Rosario 3 hrs. Canaria 8 hrs.
Arrecife – Santa Cruz de Tenerife 20 hrs. Puerto del Rosario – Santa Cruz de Tenerife 8 hrs.
Corralejo – Playa Blanca 1 hr. San Sebastián de la Gomera – Los Cristianos
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – Arrecife 7 hrs. 1.5 hrs.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – Morro Jable 3 hrs. Santa Cruz de La Palma – Las Palmas de Gran
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – Puerto del Canaria 13.5 hrs.
Rosario 8 hrs. Santa Cruz de La Palma – Los Cristianos 5 hrs.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – Santa Cruz de Santa Cruz de Tenerife – Arrecife 20 hrs.
La Palma 13.5 hrs. Santa Cruz de Tenerife – Puerto del Rosario 8 hrs.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – Santa Cruz de
Tenerife 3.5 hrs. HYDROFOILS AND HIGH-SPEED FERRIES
Los Cristianos – Puerto de la Estaca 5 hrs. Agaete – Santa Cruz de Tenerife 60 min.
Los Cristianos – San Sebastián de La Gomera Corralejo – Playa Blanca 35 min.
1.5 hrs. Los Cristianos – San Sebastián de La Gomera
Los Cristianos – Santa Cruz de La Palma 5 hrs. 30 min.
Morro Jable – Las Palmas de Gran Canaria 3 hrs. Playa Blanca – Corralejo 35 min.
Playa Blanca – Corralejo 1 hr. San Sebastián de La Gomera – Los Cristianos
Puerto de la Estaca – Los Cristianos 5 hrs. 30 min.
Puerto del Rosario – Arrecife 3 hrs. Santa Cruz de Tenerife – Agaete 60 min.
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