John B.

Castillo deet-2
FABRICATE/INSTALL DOOR/WINDOW JAMBS AND PANELS

The symbols shown below represent the common types of windows and doors used
on floor plan sketches. Knowing these symbols may help you to understand your blueprint
better.

Figure 1. Examples of different common door and window symbols shown in plan form

A. DOORS

Types of Doors
Doors, both exterior and interior, are classified as job-built or millbuilt. This
classification is further broken down as batten, panel, and flush doors.
 Figure 2 . Types of doors

1. Job-Built Doors
The batten door is the most commonly used and most easily constructed type of job-
built door.

2. Mill-Built Doors
The usual exterior door is the panel type (Figure 2). It consists of stiles, rails, and
filler panels. Two frequently used interior doors are the flush and the panel types.

a. Panel Doors. Panel doors consist of vertical members called stiles and horizontal
members called rails. Stiles and rails form the framework into which panels are
inserted. Additional vertical and horizontal members called muntins are used to
divide the door into any number of panels. Panels may be solid wood, plywood,
particleboard or louvered or have glass inserts.
b. Flush Doors. Flush doors have flat surfaces on both sides and consist of a wood
frame with thin sheets of material (plywood veneer, plastic laminates, hardboard, or
metal) applied to both faces. Flush doors have either a solid or hollow core.
• Solid-core doors have a solid particle board or woodblock core which is covered
with layers of veneer. They are usually used as exterior doors. Solid-core doors
provide better sound insulation and have less tendency to warp.
• Hollow-core doors have a lightweight core made of various materials that are
covered with layers of veneer. They are usually used as interior doors and are
less expensive to produce.
 Figure 3. Mill-built doors

3. Specialty Doors
Specialty doors include double doors, sliding doors, and folding doors.

Door Frames
Door frames are made of the following parts: the head casing, the jambs (head and
two sides), and the sill (on exterior doors only. Doors and frames may be fabricated in the
shop and installed separately; they may also be remanufactured (prehung), purchased
ready for installation. Door-frame layout calculations begin with the size of the door (height,
width, and thickness), as given on the door schedule.
Figure 4. Principal parts of a door jamb
Construction information for door frames is usually given in detail drawings. In the
type of frame shown in Figure 4, the door jambs are rabbeted to depths of 1/2 inch
preventing the door from swinging through the frames.

Figure 5. Typical door-frame details

Exterior Door Frames
Exterior door frames are made up of two side
jambs, a head jamb, a sill, and a stop. They are
constructed in several ways. In hasty construction
(on-site prefabrication), the frames will be as shown
in Figure 5. This type requires no frame construction
because the studs on each side of the opening act as
a frame. Studs are normally placed 16 inches apart
on center. Extra studs are added at the sides of door
and window openings. Headers are usually used at
the top and bottom of such openings.

Figure 6. Single outside door

Interior Door Frames
Interior door frames are made up of two side jambs, a head jamb, and stop moldings
which the door closes against. Interior door frames have no sill and no casing, otherwise
they are the same as the exterior frames. Figure 6 shows the elevation of a single inside
door.

Figure 7. Singe inside door

Note: SWING - The hand of a door describes the direction in which a door is to swing and from which
side it is hinged. The hand is determined from the outside of the door. A standard door has the
hinges on the right or left and swings away from you. A reverse door has the hinges on the right or
left and swings toward you.

B. WINDOWS

Types of Windows
The most common types of windows are double-hung and hinged (or casement)
windows. All windows consist of two parts, the frame and the sash.

Figure 8 . Types of windows

1. Double-hung window
Made of upper and lower sashes that slide vertically past one another. However, for
full ventilation of a room, only one-half of the area of the window can be used. Any current
of air passing across its face is lost to the room.
2. Casement windows (out-swinging or in-swinging)
May be hinged at the sides, top, or bottom. Casements have the advantage of catching
a parallel breeze and slanting it into a room.

Window Frames
Window frames are made of four basic parts: the head, the jambs (two), and the sill.
(The sash is the framework that holds the glass in the window.)
In hasty construction, millwork window frames are seldom used. Instead, simple
openings are left in the walls with the stops all nailed to the stud. The sash may be hinged to
the inside or outside of the wall or may be constructed to slide. The sliding sash with
overlapping panes is most common in Army construction because it requires little
installation time.
Sills have a usual slope of 1 to 5 inches so that they shed water quickly. They are
wider than frames, usually extending about 1 1/2 inches beyond the sheathing. They also
form a base for the outside finished casing.

Window Sashes
A window is normally composed of an upper and a lower sash. There are two
ordinary types of wood sashes: fixed or movable.
• Fixed sashes - removable only with the aid of a carpenter • Movable sashes
- may slide up and down in channels in the frame (double-hung), or they may
swing in or out and be hinged at the side (casement type).

Sashes are classified as single or divided, according to the number of pieces of glass
(or lights). A sash may be made of 1 x 3 material with reinforced, rolled plastic material,
which can be cut to any desired size.

Joints
Window sashes may be made with open mortise, four tenons, and with rails tenoned
into stiles; with half-lap corners; or with butt joints or corrugated fasteners. In either of the
first two cases, the joints may be nailed or glued.

Accessories
Window screens - Screen sash is usually 3/4-inch stock; however, for large windows
and doors 1 1/8-inch material is frequently used or 3/4-inch lumber is braced with a
horizontal member.
FABRICATE and INSTALL DOOR JAMB.

Door jambs are the linings of the framing in door openings. The casing and stops are
nailed to the door jambs, and the door is hung from them. Door openings should allow 1/2
inch between the frame and the jamb (Figure 8-8, page 8-6) to permit plumbing and leveling
of jambs. Inside jambs are made of 3/4-inch stock; outside jambs are made of 1 3/8inch
stock. The width of the stock varies with the thickness of the walls.
Inside jambs are built up with 3/8- x 1 3/8-inch stops nailed to the jamb. Outside jambs are
usually rabbeted to receive the door.
Jambs are made and set as follows:

Step 1. Cut the side jambs of an entrance door to the height of the door, less the depth of
the head jamb rabbet (if any), plus the:
• Diagonal thickness of the sill, plus the sill bevel allowance.
• Thickness of the threshold, if any.
• Thickness of the head jamb.
• Height of the side-jamb lugs.
Step 2. Cut the head jamb to the width of the door, less the combined depths of the side-
jamb rabbets (if any), plus the combined depths of the head-jamb dadoes
(grooves).
Step 3. Level the floor across the opening to determine any variation in floor heights at the
point where the jambs rest on the floor.
Step 4. Cut the head jamb with both ends square. Allow the width of the door plus the
depth of both dadoes and a 3/16-inch door clearance.
Step 5. From the lower edge of the dado, measure a distance equal to the height of the
door plus the clearance required under it. Mark it and cut it square. On the
opposite jamb, do the same. Make additions or subtractions on this side for floor
variations, if any.
Step 6. Nail the side jambs and jamb heads together with 8d common nails, through the
dado into the head jamb.
 Figure 9. Door Jambs

Figure 10. Jamb allowance

Step 7. Set the jambs into the opening. Place small blocks on the subfloor under each jamb.
Blocks should be as thick as the finished floor
will be. This allows room for the finished floor to go under the door.
Step 8. Plumb the jambs and level the jamb head. Wedge the sides with shingles between
the jambs and the studs, to align them. Nail them securely in place. Take care not
to wedge the jamb unevenly. Use a straightedge 5 or 6 feet long inside the jambs
to help prevent uneven wedging.
Step 9. Check the jambs and the head carefully. Jambs placed out of plumb will tend to
swing the door open or shut, depending on the direction in which the jamb is out
of plumb.
DOOR LOCK INSTALLATION
Types of Locks

• Cylinder locks are sturdy, heavy-duty locks designed for installation in exterior
doors. They provide high security.
• Tubular locks are light-duty locks. They are used for interior doors on bathrooms,
bedrooms, passages, and closets.

Steps in Installing Door Lock (For other type of lock, use lock-set installation instructions)
Step 1. After placing the hinges in position, mark off the position of the lock on the
lock stile, 36 inches from the floor level.
Step 2. Hold the case of the mortised lock on the face of the lock stile. With a sharp
knife, mark off the area to be removed from the edge of the stile that is to
house the entire case.
Step 3.
Mark the position of the door-knob hub and the position of the key.

Step 4. Mark the position of the strike plate on the jamb.

Step 5.
Bore out the wood to house the lock and the strike plate and mortises.
Step 6.
Clean and install the lock set. The strike plate should be flush or slightly below
the face of the door jamb. Panic hardware is another type of lock. It is also
known as a paretic bar or fire-exit bolt. It is often installed on the exit doors of
public buildings. Slight pressure on the touch bar will retract the latch bolts at
the top and bottom. Install panic hardware according to the manufacturer's
instructions.
 Figure 20. Installing lock and strike plate
Steps/Procedure:
1. After placing the hinges in position, mark off the position of the lock on the lock
stile, typically 36 inches from the floor level. For this project get the center of the
8” stile.
2. Hold the case of the mortised lock on the face of the lock stile. With a sharp knife,
mark off the area to be removed from the edge of the stile that is to house the
entire case.
3. Mark the position of the door-knob hub and the position of the key.

4. Mark the position of the strike plate on the jamb.

5. Bore out the wood to house the lock and the strike plate and mortises.

MATERIALS FOR FABRICATING FORMWORKS

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the DIFFERENT
MATERIALS for FABRICATING FORMWORKS and FORMWORK DETAILS.

A. Materials used for Formwork

Materials used for the construction of concrete formwork range from traditional
materials such as wood, steel, aluminum, and plywood to nontraditional materials such as
fiberglass. Wood products are the most widely used material for formwork.
1. Timber and Plywood Timber and
plywood are the material used most for
formwork because it is high in quantity
whereby the material is easy to get.
Besides that , timber and plywood can be
handled better because it is easy to cut it
and fix as a formwork. This includes the
easy handling of it .
2. Metal Panel
Metal formwork has a very high
reuse potential. So it is more
economical than timber where
repetitive work is necessary.
3. Plastic (FRP)
Another material used here is the
fiberglassreinforced plastic as a
formwork. Its functions well
because :
• Moldability
• Light weight
• Strength
• Toughness

B. Construction of Forms consist of:

1. Plywood - It is made in thicknesses

of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch, and in widths up to 48 inches. The 8-foot lengths
are most commonly used. The 6/8- and 3/4-inch thicknesses are most economical.
2. generally made from 2 x 4 lumber. Studs also require reinforcing when they extend
Supporters or studs - Vertical studs make the sheathing rigid. These studs are more
than 4 feet.
3. Braces - Braces give the forms stability. The most common brace uses a horizontal
member and a diagonal member nailed to a stake and to the stud or wale. The
diagonal member of the brace should make a 30° angle with the horizontal member.
4. Spacer - Spreaders must be placed near each tie wire. Spreaders are cut to the
same length as the thickness of the wall and placed between the two sheathing
surfaces of the forms.
5. Tie Wire - Tie wires hold the forms secure against the lateral pressures of
unhardened concrete. Double strands are always used. Ties keep wall forms
 together as the concrete is positioned. The tie wire is made taut by twisting it with a
smooth metal rod or a spike.
6. Assorted CWN - refers to the different size of nail ranging from 1”-4” (25 mm100
mm) in length.

C. Formwork detail for different structural members

In concrete construction formwork is commonly provided for the following structural
members:
1. Formwork for sloping side column
It consists of
• Side Supports
• Side Planks
• Cleats

2. Wall foundations It consists of:

• Plywood Sheeting
• Struts

3. Formwork for Wall It consists of:

• Timber sheeting
• Vertical posts
• Horizontal members
• Rackers
• Stakes
• Wedges
After completing one side of formwork
reinforcement is provided at the place then
the second side formwork is provided.

4. Formwork for Column

It consists of the following:
• Side & End Planks
• Yoke
• Nut & Bolts
Two end & two side planks are joined by
the yokes and bolts.
5. Formwork for Slabs & beams
It consists of:
• Sole plates
• Wedges
• Props
• Head tree
• Planks
• Batten
 • Ledgers
- Beam formwork rests on head tree
- Slab form work rests on battens and joists
- If prop height are more than 8’ provide horizontal braces

6. Formwork for Stairs It consists of:

• Vertical & inclined posts
• Inclined members
• Wooden Planks or sheeting
• Stringer
• Riser Planks
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF LUMBER
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the MECHANICAL
PROPERTIES of LUMBER.

Basic understanding of mechanical properties of lumber is necessary for concrete

formwork design. Wood is different from any other structural material in that allowable
stresses of wood are different according to the orientation of the wood.

A. Bending Stresses
The figure below shows a simply supported wood beam with a concentrated load
applied at the midpoint. This process results in bending. The lumber is stressed internally to
resist the external loads. Bending in a member causes tension forces in the extreme fibers
along the face farthest from the load and causes compression in the fiber along the side closest
to the applied load. The maximum stress induced in the fibers, which occurs at the edges, is
referred to as the ‘‘extreme fiber stress in bending.’’ This stress is highly dependent on the
parallel-to-grain strength of the wood in both tension and compression.

B. Modulus of Elasticity (MOE)

Modulus of elasticity is a measure of stiffness. This factor (MOE) is a relationship
between the amount of deflection in the member and the value of load applied that causes the
deflection. The amount of deflection depends on the size of the member, the span between
the supports, the load, and the particular member specie of wood. The parallel-to-grain MOE
(i.e., the stiffness when wood is pushed or pulled parallel to the wood grain) is about 30 times
greater than the perpendicular-tograin MOE.

Bending stress
C. Tensile and Compressive Strengths
Tensile strength is a measure of the ability of wood to resist pulling forces. On the other
hand, compressive strength is a measure of the ability of wood to resist pushing forces. For
clear wood (wood without defects), the tensile and compressive strengths for parallel-to-grain
loads are approximately 10 times greater than for loads applied perpendicular to the wood
grain.
INFORMATION SHEET NO. 2.1-4 ECONOMIC USE OF
MATERIALS
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
Upon completing this section, you should be able to KNOW the ECONOMICS
USE of MATERIALS

Formwork is the largest cost component for a typical multistory reinforced concrete
building. Formwork cost accounts for 40 to 60 percent of the cost of the concrete frame and
for approximately 10 percent of the total building cost.

Timber is an economical material of formworks construction but it has a short life span.
As the reusability of timber formwork is low and it can only be reused 8-15 times, several sets
of timber formworks are needed for a high-rise building or a large project. Hence, the cost of
the formwork is high in long run.

Steel formworks might have the high cost at the beginning of the construction but as
steel formwork has a long lifespan and high reusability; it can save the cost in long run. This is
because less replacement of old formwork is needed. It can save concrete volume needed
because it can form a long span comparing to timber formwork.
A. Tips for avoiding waste construction materials

1. Study carefully the plan and detailed drawing.

2. From the given detailed drawing, you can study its different parts, including sizes of
these parts
3. Cutting lumbers, always refer to the schedule of cutting
4. Always determine the methods of measurement used in the plan for marking
5. Always remember the principles for cutting “measure twice and cut once”
6. In cutting lumber and plywoods, always use effective tools.