Direct warping and sheet dyeing

Direct Warping Manufacturers:

Sucker Muller:

Tension was given through spring

Prashant West point:

Model number: MP8

Type: Spindle driven

Diameter: 800mm to 1600 mm

Width: 1400 to 2800 mm

Speed up to 1200 metre/ minute

Tension was given through disc

Quick and effective breaking through reed sensor.

Extremely easy and robust donning and doffing of beam. Special type of hydraulic calliper breaks are
used on both sides.

Preventive automatic crossing of yarn during machine start ensuring straight arrangement of yarn
path.

Pressure roll with kick back arrangement dynamically balanced roller.

Jupiter

Tension was given through disc

Creel capacity:

Maximum: 624

Minimum: 300

Speed: 600 RPM

Process flow of sheet dyeing

In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping beams are used,
instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing system. At the back end of the
slasher / sheet dyeing range, the direct warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet from
each beam is pulled over and combined with the yarns from the other beams so that
multiple sheets of yarns can be made.
In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weaver’s beam are dyed, dried,
sized and dried simultaneously. The back direct warping beam contains 380- 420 ends,
similar to rope, but the ends are distributed evenly over the width of the flanges and the end
lay parallel to each other. 
This continuous slasher dyeing range eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope
dyeing, such as re-beaming, sizing. The yarn sheet from the back beam passes through wash
boxes, where it is treated with caustic and subsequently washed with normal water. After
squeezing the excess water; the yarn sheet passes through Dye baths and skied for oxidation
as in the case of rope dyeing. This develops the indigo coating on the yarn. After dyeing, the
dyed yarn is washed by passing through 3-4 wash boxes and finally squeezed before allowing
it to pass through drying cylinders. Subsequently the yarn sheet is dried.
The yarn sheets then pass through a set of stainless-steel split rods, which separate them into
individual sheets, equivalent to the number of section beams in the creel. After passing
through the split rods, the yarn sheets are collected into single sheet and passed through a
expansion comb at the head stock, which separate individual yarns. The expansion comb can
be adjusted to the desired loom beam width. Slasher dyeing range typically consists of 1-2
wetting vats, 4-8 dye baths and 3-4 rinsing troughs. The immersion and oxidation times lie
between 10-20s or 45-60s. 
 Creel zone
In this zone the incoming warping beam is divided into smaller beams. A stenter is present to
prevent breakage.

QUALITY CHECK

There is a possibility of irregularity in dimension. Thus, a carbon impression is taken and circulation
lines are used to correct the sheet variation.

Pre-wetting

This process is done for removal of any irregularities like dust, lint etc. This in turn increases the dye
intake capacity of the beam. Pre-treatment process in sheet dyeing consists of treatment of the
cotton yarn sheet with caustic and wetting agent. Pre-wetting is carried out in order to
get proper dyeing of the sheet. Pre-wetting is carried out with a Wetting agent, at room
temperature. In some cases, if well penetration of the dye is required, the yarns are treated
with strong caustic soda solution followed by hot wash and cold wash treatment prior to
dyeing. The pH of the bath is 11.8-12.
CHEMICALS USED:

Premasol
Dekol

Caustic: controlling of ph

Softening agents

Washing: 
Cold washing is carried out at room temperature. 
Dyeing (Indigo blue dye): 
The dyeing is carried out in 4 to 8 dye boxes. The dyeing is carried out with; 

 Indigo powder
 Sodium hydrosulphite
 Caustic soda
 Dispersing agent
Typical dipping time of sheet in each tank is 15secs and oxidation time is about 90secs. 
Washing: 
The dyed yarn sheet is subsequently in order to remove the unfix dye from the yarn
surface. However, the number of washing tank may vary. Typical wash type is: cold wash at
room temperature and hot wash at temperature of 70ºC. 
Drying:
The dyed yarn sheet is dried by passing it through drying hot cylinders. 
Accumulator/ Compensator:
The function of accumulator is to store the extra yarn sheet when the machine is stopped or at
the time of size beam doffing, so the dyeing cannot be stop. 
Sizing:
The yarns are sized in order to achieve the required strength. 
Leasing:
This zone is used for thread separation.

Weaving

Airjet Looms –
The important features of Denim weaving on Air Jet Loom are as follows:
Start Marks: The rush motor emits 1200% torque at the time of start and avoids start marks.
Electronic let off, ensures the even warp tension from the full beam to the empty beam.
Electronic let off is also equipped with the programmable kick back function which controls
the cloth fell position at the start according to the loom stop duration. The second feeler is
equipped to detect blow off of weft yarn.

Stop Market Prevention:

Devices for a coarse count weft:

Labor Saving:

This is realized with a large size packages and loom automation. Automation includes
automatic pick finding for easier weft repair and automatic defective pick remover.

Maintenance:
Rupees 50,000 per month, per machine

Widest fabric by Pikanol Omni.

Sensor

Ball warping
↓ 
Scouring
↓ 
Washing
 ↓ 
Rope dyeing 
↓ 
Long chain Beamer 
↓ 
Sizing 

Ball warping: Creel: tension disc: creeling zone: 56 capacity

Package of length as per required
Blower is used for suction of dust and lint

Scouring: cleaning: wetting agent: swelling: increase dye picks up

Indigo: multi dip multi nip: affinity less

Need of oxidation: height given

Shade percentage Style

1.6 – 2.8 Light indigo

Normal Indigo
3.2 Dark Indigo
3.2-5.7 Super Indigo

YBIT: yellow bottom Indigo Top

SBIB: Sulphur bottom Indigo Bottom
Sandwich: 3-4 colour mix, sulphur indigo black
IBST: Indigo bottom sulphur top

Yarn is sourced from:

Nitin
Vardhman
L&J, Bhilwara
Langanam, Sonter
Oswal, Ambala
Nahar, Mandideep

Sustainability: Colour storage

Washing unit
Temperature set point
Removing superficial colour

Softening: avoiding neps

Dry can area: numbering

Count; pressure high

Coiling: Ball

LCB: 17
Warper’s beam
Sizing: strength
Starch softener 600- 800 Celsius

Drying zone

Ergonomics: crane, carrying

Chemicals
Mererol Owni
Primesol
Dekol
Zylon Pli
Sodium Sulphide
\C stanol
Caustic soda

Mixing
NAF
Hydro
Dekol
Permasol NF

V-black
Dekol
Parasol
S 70

C Black

IBST

Dark Indigo

Finishing and printing

Photo emersion: 50 ml ammonium dichromate

Squeezing: coating screen

Drying 28 Celsius 30 minutes

Expose UV light 1.5 minute

Water developing

Dry 180 Celsius

End ring

Adhesive air dye

Rechecking: design open/ fault, to correct: pinning

Screen ready to print

Exposing camera: tracing paper

(Reuse of screen: 3-4 times, 8 hours of working: 10k to 12k m)

Loopager machine:
Ageing: steaming: oil temperature: inner through stem: 102 celcius
Curing: 160 celcius: fixation of print
Pigment:
Binder 30%
Fixer 6%
Mix 5%
Glycerine 1%
Ammonia 1%
Thickener 1%
Rest colour

8 chambers 100 celcius

Pigment 160 celcius

Fault correction: discharge to fill the faults attains the same colour

Desizing
No. of machine

Wet finishing (chemical finsihs)

Shrinkage effect

Temperature: 145+_ 5

Bowing (straight cut of fabrics)

Sucker muller: 1.8, Yamuna: 2.2

Stenter
Padder width pulling: 120 to 130 celcius
Heat setting 180

Coating 160 to 180 celcius

Dry
Dimension stability
Coating: film
Binder mixer thickener pigment: only on surface

Fix in chamber

Curing: stenter

Rent setting

Multipurpose
Enzyme desizing agent
Wetting agent
Acid

Dip fabric

Steamer 105 celcius depends on fabric: colour fixation

Wash: parfide, acid, h2o2: indigo to avoid colour change

Vertical drying roller

Wet finish
Reactive dye
Washing
Rotation
Shade result checked
Overdyeing: reactive and sulphur

Desize
Mercerise

Start
Entry

Padder: colour dyes

Pressure according to fabric:
soda, caustic, 15-degree celcius reactive
sulphur 80

steamer

washing

reducing agent (sodium sulphide) to oxidising agent

shade check

Wet finish
Polyester desize route

Softener

VDR

Wet finish: padder

Foam: foaming agent moisture applied

Main purpose: printing

Rubber belt

Excess liquidity: vacuum

Skew unit: twill: LH RH

Inspection and packaging

4-point system

FAULTS IN ROPE DYEING AND SHEET DYEING

Dyeing streaks, ball formation in rope dyeing, melt protruding plastic
Size patch: Desize problem
Centre to selvedge variation: sheet dyeing

ADVANTAGE
Sheet dyeing for smaller orders, less dye stuff and liquor, finer fabric

OTHER FAULTS
Slub: not formed in warp
Weft; pincher, cutter
Lycra protruded rubber/ plastic

Root fault analysis for problems not named

For weaving, finer the roll, shorter the roll length

Starting mark: loom starts after power cut, breakage, identify with pick glass
Double end
Inspection sheet is called folio
Slag end: warp damage works sometimes but not weft
Knots open; single point rejection

Roll checked for inner and outer diameter

Stretch film: 23 MICRON
Lesser the micron, more the stretch

Hand check moisture

Smoke grey don’t touch

Packing, warehouse (avg 50L), invoice marketing

Stitching for half leg full leg

GFRCK
Mapping
Noting damage

Grade plan
Self cut plan if a lot of defects

Packaging colour code

Colour Representation

Green Export
 Orange Brands

Blue Downgrade

Brown Product development

sampling
Plain Trade

Grade

Quality assurance
Brands “wash cutter” recommended by H&m and levi’s
Lamtex and whirpool contour and other European brands
Washing machines runs for 45 mintues at 46* celcius
From every roll a strpe of 30cm meter width is cut foir grouping which is futher divisded into
four parts
Then it is stiched and grouped
The undezered shaeds are rejected
To reassure the shede grouping the swates are further analyesed ito spectrophotometer
Unit L A B
L- lighyter or darjer shade
A- Red and green tonal deviation
B- Blue tonal deviation
Shade tolerance delta 1.5 standered 1
Sap software is used which generates an excel sheet in which data can be entered and then it
is further analysed in graphical form

Phisical LAB
Grey fabric arrives from finishing department
It is allotted a lab number
EPI and PPI is checked
BOWING –
DISTORTION = (AC-BD)/(AC+BD)*200
SKEW=( After skew – Before Skew)/after skew * 100
Strech % = (streche length – original length )*100
Recovery %= Strech – Growth /stretch * 100
Polyester = <4%
Growth = 1/stretch
Stech directly proportional to recovery

Weft shrinkage =0+- 3%

Warp = 12+-2

Tensile = 4”*6” swatch gauze = 75 mm

Seam slippage > 20lbs

Or get rejected

Tear = 7.5 * 10cm swatch

Weight 15000 gm

Almound drop formula

Crock meter
Wet Crocking test 65% moisture is adeed in form of distellied water
10 rounds
 1.5
Dry
10 rouds
 3.5
Piling and abrasion

Titration
Ph meter
Rotary flask checker -
Oil conten meter
Vicso meter
Spectrophoto meter
Decicator – silica

Impurity – ash

Wettability

Consistency of color as per standerd

Muffere furnace

Washing – iso attc

Multy filament stripe