NANOTECHNOLOGY USED IN COSMETICS

Nanotechnology is an innovative science that includes the design, characterization, production

and application of structures, devices and systems by controlling shape and size at the nanometer
scale, which covers the size range from 1 nanometer to 100 nanometer (nm), where 1 nanometer
is 1 billionth of a meter.

Nanotechnology is regarded as the most imminent technology of 21st century and is

contemplated as a big boon in the cosmetic industry. The term nanotechnology is the
combination of two words: namely, technology and the Greek numerical “Nano” which means
dwarf. Thus, nanotechnology is considered as the science and technology used to develop or
manipulate the particles in the size range of 1 to 100 nm. Since 1959, nanotechnology has
emerged in different fields like engineering, physics, chemistry, biology, and science and it has
been virtually 40 years since nanotechnology has intruded into the field of cosmetics, health
products, and dermal preparations. During the era of 4000BC, the use of nanotechnology has
been recorded by the Egyptians, Greek, and Romans, with concept of hair dye preparation
utilizing nanotechnology.

Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products which incorporate biologically active ingredient
having therapeutic benefits on the surface applied. These are utilized as cosmetics as they claim
to enhance appearance. Cosmeceuticals are chasm between pharmaceuticals and personal care
products. Cosmeceutical products have measurable therapeutic efficacy on the skin, as drugs and
formulations have diversified from skin to body to hair and they are used for the treatment of
various conditions like hair damage, wrinkles, photoaging, skin dryness, dark spots, uneven
complexion, hyperpigmentation, and so on.

Cosmeceuticals are contemplated as the fastest growing fragment of personal care industry and
the market for personal care is increasing enormously. Despite enormous benefits of
nanoparticles, little is known about the short-term and long-term health effects in the
environment and organisms. Safety concerns have been raised due to the reported toxicity and
possible dangers of the nanomaterials. The present article reviews the diverse classes of
nanocarriers like liposomes, niosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers,
nanoemulsion, and so on which are being used for delivery of nanocosmeceuticals, marketed
products, and positive and negative aspects.

There are a number of advantages of nanocosmeceuticals. Namely, they provide the controlled
release of active substances by controlling the drug release from carriers by several factors
including physical or chemical interaction among the components, composition of drug, polymer
and additives, ratio, and preparation method. They are used in hair care preparations, such as in
treatment of hair loss and to prevent hair from turning grey such as Identik Masque Floral
Repair, Origem hair recycling shampoo, and Nirvel hair-loss control shampoo.
Nanocosmeceuticals make the fragrances last longer, for example, Allure Parfum and Allure Eau
Parfum spray by Chanel. These make the skin care formulations more effective and increase the
efficacy of sunscreens by improving UV protection in them. By having very small size of the
particles, the surface area is increased which allows the active transport of the active ingredients
into the skin. Occlusion provides the enhancement in the penetration and skin hydration is
increased. Cosmeceuticals have high entrapment efficiency and good sensorial properties and are
more stable than the conventional cosmetics. Most of the nanoparticles are suitable for both
lipophilic and hydrophilic drug delivery. Nanomaterials are widely used in the preparation of
antiwrinkle creams, moisturizing creams, skin whitening creams, hair repairing shampoos,
conditioners, and hair serums. Several positive aspects of nanocosmeceuticals are discussed in
Figure 1.

Figure 1: Pictorial presentation of positive aspects of nanocosmeceuticals.

As the rule of the nature, each and everything in this universe has some positive as well as
negative aspects. Some of the drawbacks associated with nanocosmeceuticals are as follows. Due
to production of large number of oxygen species, oxidation stress, inflammation, damage to
DNA, proteins, and membranes may be caused by nanoparticles. Few ultrafine nanomaterials
such as carbon nanotubes, carbon based fullerenes, TiO2, copper nanoparticles, and silver
nanoparticles may be toxic to human tissues and cells. Titanium dioxide found in sunscreens has
been demonstrated to cause damage to DNA, RNA, and fats within cells. No stringent scrutiny
was imposed by the regulatory agencies for the approval and regulation of nanocosmeceuticals.
Nanocosmeceuticals may be harmful to environment as well. No clinical trials are required for
the approval of nanocosmeceuticals, thus raising a concern of toxicity after use.
Negative aspects of nanocosmeceuticals are discussed in Figure 2.

Figure 2: Pictorial presentation of negative aspects of nanocosmeceuticals.

TYPES OF NANOMATERIALS USED IN COSMETICS ARE

THE FOLLOWING

Liposomes
Liposomes are concentric bilayered vesicles in which the aqueous volume is entirely enclosed by
a lipid bilayer composed of natural or synthetic phospholipids which are GRAS (generally
regarded as safe) products. The lipid bilayer of liposomes can fuse with other bilayers such as the
cell membrane, which promotes release of its contents, making them useful for cosmetic delivery
applications. Their ease of preparation, enhanced absorption of active ingredients by skin and
continuous supply of agents into the cells over a sustained period of time make them suitable for
cosmetic applications. Vesicles, other than liposomes are being used these days that claim to
further enhance the penetration of substances across the skin, such as transferosomes, niosomes
and ethosomes.

Nanoemulsions
They are dispersions of nanoscale droplets of one liquid within another. They are metastable
systems whose structure can be manipulated based on the method of preparation. The
components used for their preparation are GRAS products and are safe to use. Their smaller
particle size provides higher stability and better suitability to carry active ingredients; they also
increase the shelf life of the product.
Nanocapsules
Nanocapsules are submicroscopic particles that are made of a polymeric capsule surrounding an
aqueous or oily core. It has been found that the use of nanocapsules decreases the penetration of
UV filter octyl methoxycinnamate in pig skin when compared with conventional emulsions.

Solid lipid nanoparticles

They are oily droplets of lipids which are solid at body temperature and stabilized by surfactants.
They can protect the encapsulated ingredients from degradation, used for the controlled delivery
of cosmetic agents over a prolonged period of time and have been found to improve the
penetration of active compounds into the stratum corneum. In vivo studies have shown that an
SLN-containing formulation is more efficient in skin hydration than a placebo. They have also
been found to show UV-resistant properties, which were enhanced when a molecular sunscreen
was incorporated and tested. Enhanced UV blocking by 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzoylchitin (a good
UV absorber) was seen when incorporated into SLNs.

Nanocrystals
They are aggregates comprising several hundred to tens of thousands of atoms that combine into
a “cluster”. Typical sizes of these aggregates are between 10 and 400 nm and they exhibit
physical and chemical properties somewhere between that of bulk solids and molecules. They
allow safe and effective passage through skin.

Nanosilver and Nanogold

Cosmetic manufacturers are harnessing the enhanced antibacterial properties of nanosilver in a
range of applications. Some manufacturers are already producing underarm deodorants with
claims that the silver in the product will provide up to 24-hour antibacterial protection. Nano-
sized gold, like nanosilver, is claimed to be highly effective in disinfecting the bacteria in the
mouth and has also been added to toothpaste.

Dendrimers
Dendrimers are unimolecular, monodisperse, micellar nanostructures, around 20 nm in size, with
a well-defined, regularly branched symmetrical structure and a high density of functional end
groups at their periphery. They contain large number of external groups suitable for
multifunctionalization.

Cubosomes
Cubosomes are discrete, sub-micron, nanostructured particles of bi-continuous cubic liquid
crystalline phase. It is formed by the self-assembly of liquid crystalline particles of certain
surfactants when mixed with water and a microstructure at a certain ratio. Cubosomes offer a
large surface area, low viscosity and can exist at almost any dilution level. They have high heat
stability and are capable of carrying hydrophilic and hydrophobic molecules. Combined with the
low cost of the raw materials and the potential for controlled release through functionalization,
they are an attractive choice for cosmetic applications as well as for drug delivery.

Hydrogels
They are 3D hydrophilic polymer networks that swell in water or biological fluids without
dissolving as a result of chemical or physical cross-links. They can predict future changes and
change their property accordingly to prevent the damage.

Buckyballs
Buckminster fullerene, C60, is perhaps the most iconic nanomaterial and is approximately 1 nm
in diameter. It has found its way into some very expensive face creams. The motivation is to
capitalize on its capacity to behave as a potent scavenger of free radicals.

TOXICITY OF NANOPARTICLES
Nanoparticles have been found to cause a large number of risks both to humans as well as to the
environment. The toxicity of nanomaterials is affected by their properties, which are attributable
to their smaller size, chemical composition, surface structure, solubility, shape and aggregation.
The various reasons for this nontoxicity are summarized below: -

Smaller Size of Nanoparticles

The main characteristic of nanoparticles is their small size. This can alter their physicochemical
properties when compared with their larger counterparts and can create the opportunity for
increased uptake and interaction with the biological tissues. Toxicity is mainly concerned with
the production of reactive oxygen species, including free radicals which will result in oxidative
stress, inflammation, and consequent damage to proteins, membranes and DNA. Because of their
size, these nanoparticles can easily gain access to the blood stream via skin or inhalation and
from there they will be transported to the various organs. The high dose and long residence time
of the nanoparticles in the vital organs can lead to their dysfunction. Carbon nanotubes have been
shown to cause the death of kidney cells and to inhibit further cell growth. Whereas 500 nm
titanium dioxide particles have only a small ability to cause DNA strand breakage, 20 nm
particles of titanium dioxide are capable of causing complete destruction of super-coiled DNA,
even at low doses and in the absence of exposure to UV. In another study, it was found that mice
which were subacutely exposed to 2–5 nm TiO2 nanoparticles showed a significant but moderate
inflammatory response.

Shape of Nanoparticles
Nanoparticles are produced in a variety of shapes like spheres, tubes, sheets etc. and this may be
a major cause for the health risks caused by them. A study has shown that exposing the
abdominal cavity of mice to long carbon nanotubes are linked with inflammation of the
abdominal wall.
Surface Area of Nanoparticles
As the size of the particle decreases, their surface area increases leading to an increase in their
reactivity. Nanomaterials are also highly reactive due to their high surface area-to-mass ratio,
providing more area by weight for chemical reactions to occur. Studies have revealed that
because of this increased reactivity, some nanoscale particles may be potentially explosive and/
or photoactive. For example, some nanomaterials—such as nanoscale titanium dioxide and
silicon dioxide—may explode if finely dispersed in the air and they come into contact with a
sufficiently strong ignition source.

Penetration of Nanoparticles Via Skin

Scientific studies have shown that nanoparticles can penetrate skin, especially if skin is flexed.
Broken skin is a direct route for the penetration of particles even up to a size of 7000 nm. The
presence of acne, eczema and wounds may enhance the absorption of nanoparticles into the
blood stream and may lead to further complications. A preliminary study found that nanoparticle
penetration was deeper in skin affected by psoriasis than in unaffected skin. Recently, the base
carriers are being modified in order to enhance the skin penetration by incorporating certain
penetration enhancers, both physical and chemical, and also by preparing newer vesicular
systems with increased skin penetrability like ethosomes and transferosomes. Even flexing and
massage can increase the skin penetration of nanoparticles. One study found that even particles
up to 1000 nm in size can be taken up through intact skin to reach living cells, when skin is
flexed.

EXAMPLES OF SOME COMPANIES USING NANOTECH IN

THEIR SKIN PRODUCTS
L’Oreal (which ranks No. 6 in nanotechnology patent holders in the U.S.) has used polymer
nanocapsules to deliver active ingredients, e.g. retinol or Vitamin A, into the deeper layers of
skin. In 1998 the company unveiled Plentitude Revitalift, an anti-wrinkle cream using
nanoparticles.
Freeze 24/7, a new anti-wrinkle skincare line is planning to incorporate nanotechnology in future
products.
La Prairie’s product, the Dollars 500 Skin Caviar Intensive Ampoule Treatment, claims to
minimize the look of uneven skin pigmentation, lines and wrinkles in six weeks using
nanotechnology.
La Prairie’s vice president of retail marketing and training, Holly Genovese, says the
nanoemulsions in the product “optimize the delivery of functional ingredients into the skin and
allow these materials to get to the site of action quicker”.
Procter & Gamble’s Olay brand was designed with nanoemulsion technology in 2005.
Other companies using nanotech in their skin products as of 2005 include: Mary Kay and
Clinique from Lauder; Neutrogena, from Johnson & Johnson; Avon; and the Estee Lauder brand.
Hair products – using nanoemulsions to encapsulate active ingredients and carry them deeper
into hair shafts.
PureOlogy began experimenting with nanoemulsions in 2000 when the company’s founder set
out to create a product line especially developed for color treated hair.
Sunscreens – the zinc and titanium in sunscreens are “micronized”, making them transparent,
less greasy, less smelly and more absorbable into the skin.
DDF planned more nanotechnology-enhanced anti-aging products as of 2004.
Colorescience markets a product named Sunforgettable, a powder which contains titanium
dioxide nanoparticles.
Paris-based Caudalie launched its Vinosun Anti-Aging Suncare, a sunscreen and anti-aging
treatment that relies on “nanomized” UV filters and antioxidants, in the US in 2003.

CONCLUSION
Nanotechnology is considered to be the most promising and revolutionizing field. Over the last
dozen of years, nanotechnology is widely being used and is beneficial in the field of
dermatology, cosmetics, and biomedical applications as well. New technologies and novel
delivery systems have been invented by scientists, which are currently being used in the
manufacture of cosmeceuticals. By the increase in use of cosmeceuticals, the conventional
delivery systems are being replaced by the novel delivery systems. Novel nanocarriers which are
currently being used are liposomes, niosomes, NLC, SLNs, gold nanoparticles, nanoemulsion,
and nanosomes in various cosmeceuticals. These novel delivery systems have remarkable
potential in achieving various aspects like controlled and targeted drug delivery, site specificity,
better stability, biocompatibility, prolonged action, and higher drug-loading capacity. There is
lack of convincing evidences for the claims of effectiveness, so industries are required to provide
them. There are huge controversies regarding the toxicity and safety of the nanomaterials;
various researches are being carried out to determine the possible health hazard and toxicity.
Meticulous studies on the safety profile of the nanomaterials are required. Nanoproducts should
be fabricated in such a way that their value and health of the customers are improved. Clinical
trials are not required for the approval of cosmeceuticals so the manufacturers enjoy the benefit
and avoid holding clinical trials and lengthy procedures. Lastly, stringent laws should be
imposed on the regulation and safety of cosmeceuticals and nanoparticles used in them.
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