TROUSERS. TROUSERS cutting in its earliest stages does not present so much difficulty to the student as the cutting of either coats or waistcoats. The reason for this is found in the easy application of the measures to the Graft, for a beginner can proceed with his work with only a very limited knowledge of what is generally regarded as the science of trousers cutting. On account of this facility the Student often takes up the duties of trousers cutting knowing scarcely anything of the principles that govern their construction, and, having succeeded moderately well, he docs not trouble to master the science. When, however, the actwal scientific knowledge is obtained, it is generally conceded that the cutting of a very smart trousers for every figure is an attainment achieved only by careful study and vigilant observation, 3 Again, the difficulty of altering trousers when once they are cut is another reason why trousers cutting presents often more problems of anxiety than coat cuiting. It is, therefore, essential to the success of the student that he should know not only the general construction of the trunk and legs, but the necessity of pro- viding for the attitude of the figure to be clothed. Also he should ascertain the purpose for which the trousers are to be used, whether for walking or riding, for smartness of appearance, for ease and comfort in bending, and the free movement of the legs when climbing stairs, etc. ‘The dificulty, of course, js that a straight piece of material must cover two right angles—the bend of the seat and the bend of the knee—without producing unusual pressure upon these parts or creating wrinkles and unsightly creases across the garment. While we do not propose to burden the student's mind with anatomical terms it is of the greatest import- ance that he should know the elementary principles upon which any system of cutting is based, for in cases of disproportion and attitude, variations must be made from the normal. It is the knowledge of these variations and the principles which govern them that will enable the student to meet the requirements of customers, whose wants are varied and whose ideas and needs are vastly dissimilar. Fortunately, the measures necessary for producing trousers are easily taken and can be applied to the draft, whether directly on the material or on paper, with a reasonable amount of certainty. It is, however, in the construction of the draft that the knowledge of the figure to be clothed has to be well considered, PROPORTION. Artists and sculptors have always recognised the natural proportions of the human figure, and in most works, both for artists and doctors, the figure is understood to be proportionately divided into sections. While the trend of the times is rather towards actual measures than proportions of a given whole, still it is valuable for many reasons to know that there is a very general law of proportion which may’ aid the student who wishes to check his measures, of, more likely still, the measures given him to cut by, which have been taken by inexperienced or inefficient customers or travellers. One of thé greatest authorities of man-measurement was Dr. Wampen, a man of a university education, whose whole life was devoted to the science and to whose memory cutters and trade writers owe a lasting debt of gratitude for his elaborate, accurate and monumental works on behalf of scientific research. Dr. Wampen, after much experimenting and measuring, fixed the average height at 64 inches, and with this as a basis, fol- lowing the old Grecian artists’ method of dividing the total height of the figure into eight distinct parts or hheads, the head being the standard by which the other parts are measured, he arrived at a fairly workable rule of proportion, ‘The cight sections into which he divided the figure as generally used by tailors are :—(1) The head from the crown to the nape. (2) Nape to the bottom of scye. (3) Bottom of scye to natural waist. (4) Natural waist to the seat. (This is the centre of the figure). (5) The seat to the middle of thigh. (6) Middle of thigh to small. (7) Small to the bottom of calf. (8) Botiom of calf to the sole of foot. (The length of leg 2 in. below seat.)=i PROPORTION USED TO ASCERTAIN LEG LENGTH. ‘The practical application of this knowledge would give the leg length half the total height, less 2 in For example, if the figure is 64 in. high, half this quantity, less 2 in., will give 30 in., which is the leg measure for a man of 5 ft. 4 in. For a man 72 in, high his leg, by the same rule, would measure 34 in. ‘The rise of trousers would be found at one-third of leg measure, plus 14 in. The trousers for the 6+ in. figure would measure from waist half the height and an eighth (40 in.) ; the leg measure being 30 and the rise one-third Jeg, plus 14 in. for waistband, would give the total length of side-seam 414 in. Similarly, a man 6 ft. high would measure in the leg 34 in, one-third of this quantity, with 14 in, added, also for waistband, giving 2 total side-seam of 462 in, PROPORTIONATE POSITION OF KNEE. Again, the length of the leg itself can be easily divided to find the knee. From this scale of proportion we gather that the simall is one-fourth of the entire height of figure, so we are enabled to find the knee in a trousers by simply dividing the leg measure in half and adding 2 inches, which represents the distance the small is from the knee. For all practical purposes in trousers cutting, this method of finding the knee will be found to answer very well. It is quite true we prefer in breeches cutting to measure directly on the figure the exact position of the knee and small: but in trousers the placing of the knee marks even an inch one way or the other does not make a material difference, because trousers are seldom cut perfectly tight to the leg at the knee, and when they are we deal with them on the same principle as for breeches and Jodhpores. i SEAT AS A FACTOR OF SIZE. Another interesting point in the matter of proportion has been ably demonstrated by the learned anatomist previously mentioned, and that is the seat measure, As the breast is related to the coat, so in the same way the Seat is related to the trousers, and forms the basis upon which the width of the trousers depends. For all practical purposes the seat is the important factor, and though in disproportionate figures a modification has to be adopted, yet all makers of systems accept this factor as the controlling size, which is subdivided to obtain the fork quantity. ‘The waist is to a certain extent a minor matter, as the outside boundary of the trousers must be provided for first and the waist sup- pressed afterwards. When, however, the waist exceeds the seat, the method of procedure must of necessity be modi fied, consequently we hope to deal with these variations by a full and explicit working diagram that gives to the student in compact form the necessary procedure im each case of the normal, corpulent, and big man, also a type known as the bellied man as distinct from an ordinary form of corpalency. In thus treating the subject, while we recognise the great importance of a knowledge of proportion and its general adaptability to regular and proportionate figures, we avoid fine-spun theories of anatomical deduction and centre our attention upon Fel Fc 3 the essential practical side of cutting. (*) \\ z Ficl (¢) For the student desirous of further investigation and study of anatomy, man moaturement, proportion, etc., the works of Dr. Wampen will be found of great interest, while a still more practical work on the human figure is Form Growth,” by S. Keyworth— 1483 — ‘The natural and proper conclusion is that, if waist, fork and bottom are made to square with the line C x, ‘point J must be placed nearer O to cause the side-seam to take the shape shown by the heavy line from C to J. The natural position of the leg is shown on Fig. 6, which demonstrates the necessity of a form of construction hat recognises the cone rather than the tube shape. GENERAL CONSTRUCTION. ‘There are three popular forms of construction, any of which will produce well-balanced trousers, viz. + the front, the centre and the side lines, as shown by the respective Figs. 7, 8 and 9, Comparing these with Fig. 5 it will be seen that Fig. 9 represents the side line of ‘eonstruction and necessitates point J being placed at 2} in, from Y as already mentioned, because if, trousers were drafted by making Y K the bottom, ‘as shown by the dotted lines, the cone shape of the figure would be ignored and the trousers would ‘not correspond with the natural form of leg, being ‘cut on the skew and too long from K to B. We have followed the principle of the centre construction fine, as shown by Fig. & for the reason that we find it simpler in working and more readily adapted to both breeches and trousers. VARIATION TO MEET DIFFERENT NEEDS. Construction must vary to mect special needs, even in proportionate or normal figures, consequently there have arisen in the trade two terms descriptive ‘of the shape of the trousers in relation to the attitude or purpose for which the trousers are specially designed, viz.: “open” and “‘close.” “Open-cut trousers are intended for riding and similar purposes, and the “close”-cut for walking. Fie. 10 Fi, 11 Fic.12 It is doubtful whether even the contentious terms “straightness” and “crockedness” have given rise to ‘yore heated arguments at cutters’ meetings than the terms “openness” and “closeness,” a great deal of the contention arising from a misunderstanding as to what “openness” actually means, the word “closeness” being its opposite. THE MEANING OF “OPENNESS” AND “CLOSENESS.” Draw a straight line as XX through B to X (Fig. 10). Let the distance from X to B represent the ength of the trousers leg and to XX the full length of side-seam, Square a line to C by this line, The width between B and L represents the forle of a topside trousers. Square this line with B C and the conse- quence is we have two parallel lines as shown by the letters P LY. ‘The outside boundary line of the side-seam is shown from C to K, The leg-seata of the trousers is shown from Bto J. While the trousers remain in this position from L to P, and the bottom of the leg-seam at J remains halfway between X and Y, the trousers are said to be “close.” The nearer J approaches to X the closer the trousers are said to be, and the farther away from X, which of course, means nearer to Y, the more open. In this case the trousers are said to be a “close” cut; but if point J came between Y and H’ the “open” would be formed as shown by Dia. 11.— 4 — The top of trousers at P must not be removed from the perpendicular, or the balance will be interfered with, because if point P is brought nearer to XX by an inch J will shoot back towards H" at least 34 in, ‘Phe student will naturally wonder why this process of opening and closing the construction of the leg should be resorted to. This is easily explained in the difference between smart walking trousers and easy riding trousers—the ‘one is cut very close in the leg and the other open. A glance at Figs. 10 and 11 will show that in the first the leg length is shorter from J to B than it ison Fig. 12. For walking purposes the closer the cut the smarter the trousers, and for riding and other purposes, where the legs take an open position, the fulness provided by the extra length imparted to the leg wives the ease in the saddle from the knee at Gr to the fork at B, THE FORK. ‘As most of the faults in coat cutting can be attributed to the wrong position of the scye, so many of the most slaring defects in trousers cutting can be traced to the size and position of the fork. ‘The fork is that part of the leg which joins the trunk and consequently must be considered in relation to the underside as well as the topside of the ‘trousers, ‘There are many misconceptions with regard to what may be called "and without labouring the subject we will endeavour to show what it actually consists of. Fig. 13 gives a profile of one leg with the trunk cut'in half, B is the place where the leg-seam unites the top and undersides, and the curved line 2 B 3 shows the actual fork quantity. By reference to Fig. 14 it will be seen that while B L is the fork quantity on the topside the curved line M R of the seat fon the underside must be also added to this to give the exact quantity required to fit Fig. 13, from 2 to the front at 3. For the sake of general convenience, and because the seat in normal sizes bears a uniform relation to the fork, a division of the seat is used to find the fork quantity from L to Band L to M. It is a well-known fact that the thigh is closely related to the seat and has been ‘mathematically ascertained to be nine-sixteenths of that section, In corpulent men the body increases very con- siderably in the seat or trunk section but not correspondingly in the thigh, It is for this reason that we use 1 division of the seat to locate the fork in normal figures, but in corpulent men the thigh is a much safer measure by which to establish the fork quantity, as it gives less material between the legs and produces much more satisfactory results. In the case of a normal 36 seat and 20% thigh the actual fork quantity will be about 74, as Fig. 14 shows. L Bis 3 in, and 12 in. is added from B to M, making in all 73 ing thus, measuring from L to B 3 in,, place that on L ‘and measure to M, which gives 74 in. the “ fork, Ficts Or, to state it another way, the actual amount consumed in the thigh where it joins the trunk is one-third (68) and adding # in, for space between the legs we get 7 in. THE SEAT. Why the term “seat angle” should be used does not seem very clear at first sight to the student, but a study of Fig. 13 will show the seat angle in its normal upright position. Let a line be drawn from N to W across est part of the seat to correspond with the ground line upon which the figure stands. ‘Then square with this li N E to the height of the natural waist, and the distance from E to 4 will give the seat angle as shown by dotted lis from 4 to N.= 45 — This is only an angle of about 78* and consequently would not allow for the movement of the body in a sitting ‘er stooping position. It has been found in general practice that an angle of 65° is a good working angle for walking trousers, ancl in the case of the riding trousers and breeches 5° more acute. Fig. 15 will show these two angles and as, ‘hey can be extended to any length the student can test for himself. While a crooked seat will, as a rule, give more falness at the ball of the seat when stooping, remain there when the figure is in an upright position; this will explain the reason why it is impossible to have sufficient room in the seat when stooping or riding and not have an unsightly amount when standing. All the same, foo great an angle in the seat, instead of securing comfort in the saddle, will only produce an excess of material which will form into unsightly folds. Hence it may bbe taken for granted that a more acute angle than 60° will overshoot the mark by producing these objectionable folds. Another point in the construction of trousers 's the rise of underside, The student may wonder why it is necessary to raise the undersides at the top 4 in. above Fats the topsides at the seat angle. This extra amount is so placed to allow for the material taken up by the bending of the body. ‘The amount consumed in bending the seat. either for sitting or stooping, fis about three inches. This the student can easily demonstrate by measuring from the fork up the seat to the ‘waist level when standing, and he will find the bending of the body will take up fully three inches of the tape. The other is added for seams and ease. A simple way of getting the necessary rise at the back of a pair of trousers is to slide the square along the angle line B F E, after having measured the topside from P to Q and placed that quantity at E, and measure to Z, which is the continuation of P Q, the total waist measure and | in. for seams, ‘Thus the square being laid at F E Z gives an automatic rise of + in. ‘The advantage of finding the angle of the seat at F in relation to L and B is that the width of seat is a greater controlling feature of the construction than the height; consequently by fixing F at one-third seat plus 4 in an angle of 65° is secured for intermediate sizes between 18 and 24 in. Thus on the accompanying diagram the fork of an 18 in. seat is shown by the right-angle B LF, the point B being one- sixth, or 3 in, from L, and F at 64 in. from L, or one-third plus 4 in. These points give the other side of the angle by ruling from B through F. Then take the largest possible size, say 24 in. From B to + will be 4 in, a sixth of 24 in, and from 4 to 8 one-third of seat plus 4 in. This reaches exactly the same angle at 84 in. in relation to the square or right- angle +B or LB. All the sizes between a 36 and a 48 in. seat lie between these points, and while for certnin reasons it may be necessary, under circumstances of size or purpose for which the trousers are to be used, to make a more crooked seat, this angle will be found to meet all general purposes and give ease at the ball of the seat without an excessive amount of fulness.1 THE CONE AS OPPOSED TO THE TUBE. ‘Trousers are something more than two cylinders joined at the top. A glance at the natural figure will easily prove this. Am ordinary well-built man is much wider across the seat than the space occupied by feet, as will be seen by the classic figures 1,2 and 3, which show the front, back, and profile respectively. If we examine Fig. 1 we shall find, instead of the double cylinder, the figure shows a general outline of two inverted cones, which, if placed in a square, will illustrate better than in any other form the perplexing phrases ‘of “openness” and “closeness.” At the very outset it is well to understand this important fact, because the most primitive idea of trousers con- struction proceeds on the presumption that the trousers leg is a straight cylinder instead of a cone. From this basis many systems ave been constructed which, although they may have the merit of simplicity, are faulty and unscientific Take, for instance, the simple outline of Fig. 4, Let tho top line Q PO represent the waist, C LC the fork tine, and J K O the ankle or ground. CL forms the top of the cone and JK the bottom, while QP forms the upper and C L the lower part of a second cone, the trunk of the figure as distinct from the legs ‘The primitive idea of construction was to draw the balance line at the side without allowing for the proper position of the feet from C to Y (Fig. 5), and to square actoss from it at the waist, fork, knee and bottom The error of this procedure will be easily seen by this figure, which shows the bottom of trousers at J fully 24 in, from Y, which is square with C Land also Q P. If the point J is brought to Y, and this line is made to form the construction line, it will be readily seen that point K will also come the same amount closer to ¥ Fie. 4 Fra. 5 Fra. 6 and farther from ©. The consequence of this would be that L to K would be much too long and C to J short for the leg, making the leg-seam full from the knee to the fork and causing the sideseam to from J te C.