EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SYDNEY

RESTAURANTS • BEACHES
GALLERIES • FESTIVALS
CAFES • NIGHTLIFE • PUBS
WALKS • SHOPPING • MAPS
HOTELS • PARKS • MUSEUMS
THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
w
w
w
.to
ur
is
ta
s.
cl
an.
su
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SYDNEY
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SYDNEY
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS: KEN BRASS & KIRSTY MCKENZIE
 PRODUCED BY The Watermark Press, Sydney, Australia
PROJECT EDITOR Siobhán O’Connor
ART EDITOR Claire Edwards
EDITORS Robert Coupe, Leith Hillard, Jane Sheard
DESIGNERS Katie Peacock, Claire Ricketts, Noel Wendtman
Dorling Kindersley Limited
SENIOR EDITOR Fay Franklin
SENIOR ART EDITOR Jane Ewart
SENIOR REVISIONS EDITOR Esther Labi
CONTRIBUTORS
Anna Bruechert, John Dengate, Carrie Hutchinson, Graham Jahn, Kim Saville,
Susan Skelly
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Max Alexander, Simon Blackall, Michael Nicholson, Rob Reichenfeld, Alan
Williams
ILLUSTRATORS
Richard Draper, Stephen Gyapay, Alex Lavroff Associates, The Overall Picture,
CONTENTS
Robbie Polley
HOW TO USE THIS
REPRODUCED BY Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound by South China Printing Company Ltd., China
GUIDE 6
First American Edition 1996
10 11 12 13 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 INTRODUCING
Published in the United States by SYDNEY
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street,
New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
(twice), 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2010
Copyright 1997, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED
ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR
INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY
MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE),
WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE
ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
PUBLISHED IN GREAT
T BRITAIN BY
Y DORLING KINDERSLEY
Y LIMITED..
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-0-7566-6044-4
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH
EUROPEAN USAGE; I.E., THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS ONE FLIGHT UP.
Front cover main image: Sydney Opera House and skyline

A view of the Royal Botanic

Gardens and city skyline

FOUR GREAT DAYS

IN SYDNEY 10
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-
PUTTING SYDNEY ON
date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, THE MAP 12
however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to
change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any THE HISTORY OF
consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any SYDNEY 18
material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any
website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers SYDNEY AT A
highly. Please write to: The Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel GLANCE 32
Guides, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL.
 FURTHER AFIELD 128 TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
FOUR GUIDED
WALKS 140 WHERE TO STAY 168

BEYOND SYDNEY RESTAURANTS, CAFES

AND PUBS 178
EXPLORING BEYOND
SYDNEY 152

PITTWATER AND
KU-RING-GAI CHASE 154

HAWKESBURY TOUR 156 Wattleseed, pepperberry and

lemon myrtle
Tamarama beach and surf club
HUNTER VALLEY 158
SHOPS AND
SYDNEY THROUGH BLUE MOUNTAINS 160 MARKETS 198
THE YEAR 48
ENTERTAINMENT IN
SPORTING SYDNEY 52 SYDNEY 208

THE CITY SHORELINE 56 SURVIVAL GUIDE

SYDNEY PRACTICAL
AREA BY AREA INFORMATION 218

THE ROCKS AND TRAVEL

CIRCULAR QUAY 62 INFORMATION 228

CITY CENTRE 78 SYDNEY

STREET FINDER 238
DARLING HARBOUR 90 Façade of Sydney Town Hall
GENERAL INDEX 250
BOTANIC GARDENS
AND THE SOUTHERN ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
DOMAIN 102 HIGHLANDS TOUR 162 263

ROYAL NATIONAL TRANSPORT MAP

PARK 164 Inside back cover

Stained-glass window,
Queen Victoria Building

KINGS CROSS AND

DARLINGHURST 116

PADDINGTON 122 Sydney

Opera House
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide helps you to get
the most from your visit to
Sydney. It provides both
expert recommendations and
detailed practical information.
by Area is the main sightseeing
section, covering all the sights,
with photographs, maps and
drawings. Further Afield looks
at sights just outside the city
Introducing Sydney locates the centre while Beyond Sydney
city geographically, sets modern explores other places close to
Sydney in its historical and Sydney. Carefully researched
cultural context and describes Strolling at the tips on hotels, restaurants, pubs
events through the entire year. Royal Easter Show and entertainment venues are
Sydney at a Glance is an overview of found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival
the city’s main attractions, including a Guide contains useful practical advice
feature on the city shoreline and on everything from the Australian
Sydney’s best beaches. Sydney Area telephone system to public transport.

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION

The centre of Sydney has been divided into sights described. All sights are numbered and
six sightseeing areas. Each area has its own plotted on an Area Map. Detailed information
chapter and is colour-coded for easy refer- for each sight is presented in numerical order,
ence. Every chapter opens with a list of the making it easy to locate within the chapter.
$    $
   
 $
    
Each area has
!  
"
"$ colour-coded

-5'8/%5
8%<
21')
.12:1
%6

)0--5'8/%5
8%<
-6
2*7)1

5)*)55)(
72
%6
7,)
=&-57,
2'.6
%5)
*2'%/
32-176
*25
):
$)%56

9)
5)9)/6
%1(
-5'8/%5
8%<
(5):

,8+)
'52:(6
:,)1
-1


<( thumb tabs. A suggested route
3/%')
2*
8675%/-%
>
7
:%6
,)5)

-1
%18%5<

7,%7
7,)
-567

/))7
/%1()(
-76
,80%1
*5)-+,7

1)<
:%6
%:%5()(
7,)
<)%5


/<03-'
%0)6
!,)
2'.6

%5)%
2**)56
9-6-7256
%
7%67)
2*

takes in the most
2*
'219-'76
62/(-)56
%1(
2**- <(1)<6
3%67
&87
-7
-6
%
*%5

'-%/6
%1(
7,)
1):
5-7-6,

'2/21<
2*
):
287,
#%/)6
theSculpture on
AMP Building,
:%6
()'/%5)(
<(1)<
29)
Circular Quay
'5<
*520
7,)
7-0)
/)66
7,%1


<)%56
%+2
:,)1
0267

-1,%&-7%176
/-9)(
-1
5%7-1*)67)(

interesting and
&)'%0)
%
5%//<-1+
32-17
:,)1)9)5
%
6/806
%1(
+%1+6
58/)(
-76
675))76
2:

6,-3
%55-9)(
&5-1+-1+
08',1))()(
6'58&&)(
%1(
32/-6,)(
!,)
2'.6

A locator map attractive streets
6833/-)6
*520
=,20)>
52:(6
67-//
*2506
3%57
2*
7,)
'2/285*8/
3520)1%()

+%7,)5
,)5)
:,)1)9)5
7,)5)
-6
620) *520
7,)
<(1)<
%5&285
5-(+)
72

7,-1+
72
')/)&5%7)
!,)
8%<
%1(
!,)
7,)
63)'7%'8/%5
3)5%
286) shows where you in the area.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Streets and
Buildings
867206
286)

%'48%5-)
/%')

Museums and Galleries
!,) 2'.6 -6'29)5<
are in relation to
%03&)//6 725),286)6
 86)80 
)25+)
75))7

%(0%16
277%+)

5+</)
725)6

Churches
%55-621
,85',

7
,-/-36
,85',

86%11%,
/%')

%-/256
20)

#)673%'
86)80

other areas in the
<(1)<
&6)59%725<


)52
2*
#%7)5/22

Theatres and Concert Halls
#,%5*
!,)%75)

867-')
%1(
2/-')
86)80

86)80
2*
217)0325%5<
city centre.
 



 
#5-7)56
#%/.

 
 


 
57 
%7-21%/
!5867
)175)
 Locator map
GETTING THERE
-5'8/%5
8%<
-6
7,)
&)67
6723

*25
*)55-)6
%1(
75%-16
<(1)<
;3/25)5
%1(
&86
5287)6







%1(



581
5)+8/%5/<

72
!,)
2'.6
:,-/)
0267
&86)6

7,528+,
7,)
'-7<
+2
72
7,)
8%<
  !    !
   
 !
      
    
  
      
 ! 


%

0"
"%

3
30

5
&&

40 /
53
/

40

  





4

8":


!

$,

,



)*

*$
35

*()

!$ %
0

-%
)

'

%'*&

30"%

#!#
&3

,4
0/


".&%
'02
4)&
25((&%
$-*''3
4)"4
7&2&
0/$&
*43

8

#3"
-0
$

%0.*/"/4
'&"452&
4)*3
"2&"
)"3
1-"9&%
"
6*4"-
20-&
-
%'$'
#

)*

5
53&&

*/ 9%/&93
%&6&-01.&/4
/


4)&
*234

$ '
'($&-





4

&5

-&&4&23
5/%&2
06&2/02
)*--*13
$0.."/%
&
!!)'(&(
-

"/%

453&

"3(:-&


4 5 3 & THE ROCKS BOTANIC
#&3-

0#4&37"503:

&5

&2&$4&%
.",&3)*'4
#5*-%*/(3
)&2&
7*4)
4)&
('
")')"'
$! AND CIRCULAR GARDENS
(&03(&

4ZE OFZ

$6.

1"3, QUAY
$P WF $0/6*$43
)"2%
-"#052
53&%
40
&34"#-*3)
.02&
!($#
$
"&("
AND THE
DOMAIN
Governor "'
#
$(&

1&2."/&/4
3425$452&3
*/
4)&
'02.
0'
205() CITY CENTRE
, & /

Arthur Phillip
) * $

."$26"3*&










453&&5

)&7/
342&&43
)& 2(9-&
54
"
20"%
$"26&%
&((' 

5

$*3$6-"3
26":
LOCATOR MAP
KEY
4)205()
30-*%
20$,
53*/(
+534
)"..&2
"/%
$)*3&-
400,


, 4 0

50--
See Street Finder, map 1

4

$")*--
&913&448":
&5

10*/5
9&"23
40
#5*-%
#&(*//*/(
*/
 
9

)&
0$,3
7"3

/

Street-by-Street map
53&

&5
5 3 &

1*55



453&&5

See pp64–5
1 )* - -*1
45 3& &5

06&225/
7*4)
%*3&"3&
4)&
342&&4
/07
,/07/
"3
5&:
"/"-

 

" 
%

4

$JSDVMBS
3&

2VBZ
45
& 5

-"/

7"3
0/$&
&7&23
CityRail station "/"- 0%"9 -#
#(
('
'($&
The Rocks Market
3 0

#&3

4)&
"2&"
*3
34*--
2*$)
*/
*3
"
)*6&
0'
"$4*6*49

(&0 3 (&

%)
'

()##!
$&#!!-

" %

Hero of
Bus terminus
$6.

$0-0/*"-
)*34029
Waterloo &6&29
7&&,&/%

4 5
3 & &
5
)'
$&
'")!#

(3047&/03
45 % ( &





Ferry boarding point LOWER FORT STREET 0''&2*/(
"/
&$-&$4*$

-"/(

# 3 *
"/%
$0-052 2"/(&
0'
$2"'4
*4&.3

1"3,
WAT

JetCat/RiverCat boarding point "/%
+&7&--&29

0 metres 500 54*-*:*/( 5342"-*"/
UE
ARG

Railway line AY
HIGHW
SON

EN
AV D *$0/3
'20.
(5.

ADFIEL
YLE

0 yards 500 BR
-&"6&3
40
,0"-"3
ITY
ROA

IN
TR
ST
D

The brilliant white walls of the Sailors’ Home, parts of which date back to 1864
RE
ET

ET
STRE
UPPER FORT
Y
HWA
HIG
ET

D
RE

IEL
ADF

Introduction
1
BR
ST

LK
WA
EET
ON

STR
KS

D
LAN
HIC

BER R

to the area
STE
CUM UCE
GLO
EET

%%
! $" %

STR

T
EE

&'(
)&$%#
'(&) ST
R
()&
$#
('
%&$"##(

For easy reference, the sights

RGE

IR
FA
'(
+'

+#"!!

AY

!
""
GEO

PL
%&'#(
")')"
$!'
$#
"#
$*&#"#(

AR

'$"
$
(
&!'(
'(&$ $,'+#
&'
#
+(

GY

ET
LE

#$"!
#'(&)"#('
RE +'
#$+#
'
(
$,'+#'

are numbered and located &$)(
($

)'(&!


ST
&& '
+(
'
"!-
'
+

ST

ON T
GT ES
RE

RI
N W !.(
+'
!'$

'##(

ET

R
HA AY )&
!*
($

(
&'(

 !
#  QU
+$"#
($
*$(
#
+
$)(

on an area map. This map $!)"#'
#
('
)&
&

$&(
+(
(
#'#

$
&('
(&$$%'
'(($#

ET UL
AR
!'

&(
'
#''(
$#


0 metres 100
&
)#(!
 

)'(&!'
RE RC

also shows bus terminals, &'(
%&"
"#'(&
+'

)(
#,(
$$&

Argyle Cut
GE
OR
GE
ST CI

KEY
0 yards 100

Suggested route

ferry boarding points, JetCat

#!#


Suez Canal

STAR SIGHTS

or RiverCat boarding points "  %
 "


'(&%%
!''!
/

!'
(
*#(&
#()&

$
(

)'(&!#
#
#(&
The Overseas
Passenger Terminal
*3
7)&2&
30.&
0'
4)&

702-%3
-58529
$25*3&


Cadman’s Cottage

Museum of
Contemporary Art
-*/&23
*/$-5%*/(
4)&

and CityRail stations. The

Walkway along
#($#!
&(
'%!-
#
#
Circular Quay 
#&24)
%52*/(

Sydney Observatory
*&##
%&$&""
 West foreshore 4)&*2
34"9
*/
9%/&9
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp999–999 and pp999–999

sights are also shown on the

Sydney Street Finder on Street-by-Street map
pages 240–45. 2 This gives a bird’s eye view of
the most important parts of each
The list of
star sights
The area shaded pink sightseeing area. The numbering recommends
is shown in greater detail of the sights ties in with the area the places
on the Street-by-Street map map and the fuller descriptions that no visitor
on the following pages. on the pages that follow. should miss.
 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7

SYDNEY AREA MAP       !    
 "    "  !   
 "    "
 
 
   



 3YDNEY
!
$


The coloured areas shown
(ARBOUR
"RIDGE
'PSU
#
"!


":
%FOJTPO
*+3
)5+&'
&+6+&'3
+//'2
9&/'9
+/40

)8
"
#-2,
)+&#+
+-

"%

%
"

)*(
30

30
3+8
&+34+/%4
#2'#3
'#%*
0(
7*+%*
*#3
+43

!%%+2
#,
,-
#'
-"

&-%




/

3YDNEY

/

%'*
on this map (see pp16-17)

40

5
5

4
07/
%*#14'2
034
%+49
3+)*43
#2'
&#%
(
)+$%'
#'

$,

40
/PERA

#3"
03
)*

$,
(OUSE

3

'
%0/4#+/'&
+/
4*'3'
#2'#3
*'
0%,3
#/&

)*
-"
(-'#
+',
'

8&
-0

&5

&5

4ZEOFZ

+2%5-#2
5#9
+3
4*'
0-&'34
1#24
0(
+//'2

453&
4(%2/#+3 "
(&#'
3''

3&
"3(:-&
4 $PWF

"/%

45
9&/'9
7*+-'
4*'
+49
'/42'
+3
40&#93
!.$#)2#5,!215!9
5

11 
: 
-
"(.,,


are the six main sightseeing

#&3-
%'/42#-
$53+/'33
&+342+%4
*'
04#/+%
#'
(%%-#('
(
+%2

$6.

0#4&37"503:

(&03(
,&/5




1"3,

) * $ ,
#2&'/3
#/&
*'
0.#+/
(02.
#
)2''/

&&5
$*3$6-"3
26": .,-+%#'
(+#!#'%

%




453
0#3+3
#-.034
+/
4*'
*'#24
0(
4*'
%+49
0
'
.+()'
+-

4 0 /

30"




453&
$")*--
&913&448
50--

6"3*&
":

areas - each covered by a full 4*'
7'34
-+'3
#2-+/)
#2$052
7*+%*

&5

10*/5

1*55


453&&5

4

53&
'BSN

&5

."$2

3*&
(&03(&
4
+/%-5&'3
9&/'93
*+/#407/
0
4*'
'#34
(3047&/03

1-"$&
$JSDVMBS

2VBZ
$PWF

"
#2'
+/)3
2033
#/&
#2-+/)*5234
*5$
0(

6
3 0 " %

2
$
(3047&/03
45 30:"-

"
4*'
%#(;
%5-452'
#/&
#&&+/)40/
& 5

.



4 5 3 &
# 3 * % ( & #05"/*$

chapter in Sydney Area by

45 3&& 5

4
("3%&/4
#/
#2'#
4*#4
34+--
2'4#+/3
+43

3
.
&




453&&5
4*%'/4529
%*#2#%4'2 "/4!.)#

: 0 3 ,
$ - " 3 &

453&&5

-* 1

453&&5
'!2$%.3!.$

*-
1)
,&/5

:

Area (pp60-149). The six

&5

&5
4(%$/-!).

8"
."$26"3*
/ $ &

)









4 5 3 &
8ZOZBSE

4 5 3 &
1*55

"%
(&03(&



453&

4 5 3 &

30
."35*/



1
-"$&

.ATIONAL

3'
"
5)&

)"
30
-ARITIME !RT'ALLERYOF.EW

& 5
&5

3&&5
&-*;"#&5)


.BSUJO

$"45-&3&"(

ç

8
4 6 4 4
#)49 3OUTH7ALES

-USEUM 3YDNEY %0."*/ $)"--*4
"7

1MBDF ç

&

areas are highlighted on other

&3
, * / (
453&& :

!QUARIUM 5
3 &/5

1

45
5
-& $0 8
1ZSNPOU #%.42% &4$

4 5 3 & &
"-
$3

3 & &

3 & & 5
6/(

& 9

(
#BZ

,&/5

(&03(&







453&&5




:
0 /*$)0-40
& 4
3 0"%
35 /
45
". /

& ":



4 5
" )

+
)BSCPVSTJEF 0

4 5
45

+

5
3

1:
4*

45
5







4 5 3 & & 4U
+BNFT

."$-
&-*;"#&5
%BSMJOH . " 3 , & 5


$JUZ

3.

$0--&(&
1BSL )6()&4

%!
$

!!
!
maps throughout the book. In
$FOUSF 4
5 (3&&/,/

$308/
45
08&
"7&

0/
$PDLMF

" .

":
3 %

3&&5

#

)#-.+,*.
2
0#-"
#'
/#0,

5

0 3 * "

)

4 5 3 &
1)*--*1

)
#BZ

&5
):%&

6 ( )
1"3,
(BMFSJFT "#
+(,,
2'2
+(.+
#-
#,
-
-"

)
& -* ;

7JDUPSJB

"

5 0 3
,&
45
%

5PXO

$00,

7 * $ 5
$POWFOUJPO

& 5
3 3
0"

1 " 3 ,

# 3 0

6&
1"3, 5
3

45
)BMM 4 5 3 &
&/ '(+-"+'
'
(
-"
#'!,
+(,,
'

4
* 4
& 5

453&&5

63
3&

#063
5 3 * # 6
Sydney at a Glance (pp32-47),
8*-- 7
*".
,JOHT

()

"
45
+%#'!".+,-
+
3''
11 :


&5

453&&5

*/



$SPTT

# "5 ) 6 3

3%
3-
45







)
1"3,

"
4 5 3 & & 5 8*--*".

'03#&4

%"
453&&5
!USTRALIAN

8"


453

&&5

4

5

& 3 /

% * 4

#0
-USEUM ,*

/( 4
+ ) . ' 3  # 2 /3 3
$30

63


 

!

4

&&5
4
3 0 "
%

4 5
!


1"-.&3
453
!.$ $ 3" *

"#,
-+#-#('%
).
#'
"
-*7&3 .VTFVN ( &/ %

3 &
for example, they help locate

4 5 3& &
100-



4 5



&YIJCJUJPO
"#,
!+'
1)',
#'

& 5
453&&5

($, 3''
11
: 
#+,-
8PSME
4RVBSF -*7&31 $! 2 , ) . ' ( 52 3 4

5

00-
4 6&

5 7&/
0OWERHOUSE
$! 2 , ) . ' 3 ")
" #'!-('
3''
11

: 

&

"
()'
#-,
((+,
#'

 
0 -*7&310

-USEUM 9

$308/
45

"%
1 *& 3

0-


45 .&
ç 4 5 3 & & 5
(06-#63 '0
80

5

( ! 2 "/52 0,
('
)+-
(

,'

30
/


453&& 3

453&&5

-,
(0'
,)#%%2
+0
%

453&&
5

,&
45
&5

5

#6350/

.'
,2,-&
-"-
1-'

the top sights, including art

ç453 &&
45
45

5ç
+,
+
/#%%
('
-)

453&
3

34
#063
& &
&

( )6
1BEEZhT
.BSLFUT ) ":

5 /
6
5
+(&
(-'2
2
#'

453 7&

*"
& &&

5

*/
&5 "

3
5":-03

3-
3
-"
,(.-"

50
ç
$BQJUPM

&&

)

45
426"3&

%"
53

*$
"

5 )

4RVBSF .
"% 0
4

7

3 0

3 3

/

3$ 3:
KEY 0

3(&

#" %"

08
5

*.

&-*;"#&
* 4
#06 /
6 -5

galleries and museums and

#3
1*

( &0
0 3 &

Major sight

5

.

&%

3&&

/



%: 3 0 " %

&
0

"7

( -

4

(
45

03.0/%
453& &5

Other building

9
&/

'0
5 3
3"*-8":
6&

08-*/

3
426"3&

& &

%
45"''03
CityRail station

53&&5
%
453&&5
$FOUSBM ç4 5

5

parks and reserves. They are
3&

30" %

&&
&5

3BJMXBZ

&&5

4065)
%

3&(

45 3

: /


4
53
Monorail station 4UBUJPO

&/5
1"

4
4
6 %%

&3


/

- &&

453
%

*/

4 & -8
$ )"- .
0! $$) . '4 /.

(3 &&/4
& (5
3
Sydney Light Rail (S.R.L.) station

&&5
0 8 0/
9 0



'0 0



%

.0/$
3&// ç
45

also used to show some of

:
453 3%
Bus terminus . 0 0 3 &&5


3&
&5

"
&
4

63
45
1" 3 5

/
,
4 3

(
&
3 0 5 &
Coach station

0
;
" % 5

3&&5
-&

3
%

*/

"

&
0
45

&5
/
&

% 3

Ferry boarding point

3
.003&
&&5

.

4
*
4:%/&:
0 0

4 5 3
7 ç4 5 &/

the best hotels (pp172-7), the

5
"
!
" 3& 26&

3
1"3, '005#"--
3 & 53&&5

&
& 5

& 3
JetCat/RiverCat boarding point
4




4

&
5
45"%*6. 1 " +".&
09
"#,
(&',*.
(+&+
,JQQBY
3 ,

ç
-BLF 30 " %
'0
3%
Police station (3&(

)+(.
&+$-
.#%-
#'
03:

"7&/
6&
453
&&5

-"

,
(+&,
)+-
(


&

Parking

%
top restaurants, cafés and pubs

/
4:%/&:

"
" 7 & /

-"
$3*$,&5

#'
!+(.)
(
#-(+#'+

0
1 " 3
(306/%

3
Tourist information

$&/5&//*"-

-

.#%#'!,
#'
-"
#-2

"
6 &

1"3,

/*
" %

Hospital with casualty unit 30:"-
"(3*$6-563"-

'-+
3''
11 :
(0

(
40$*&5:
4)08(306/%

&

/
5
&

."*/
"3&/"


,"())#'!
&%%
#-
+-#',

(pp184-97) and great shopping

- "
$&/
Church 0 metres 250

Synagogue &'2
(+#!#'%
-.+,

#'%.#'!
#-,
+((
,--., 0 yards 250

areas (pp200-201).

Faades of important Practical information lists all the information you

buildings are often need to visit every sight, including a map
shown to help you reference to the Street Finder (pp240-45).
recognize them quickly.

$ (    (
 #  
 (
 #   %  
#   $
  
  #  &   #
" & (
 Numbers refer to each

 








Map 1 B2.  Sydney Explorer, 431,
+7476A
5=;<
0)>-
4773-,
413-

+0):)+<-:1B-,
*A
+7**4-,
8)>-
5-6<;
6)::7?
;1,-
;<:--<;





106 George St, The Rocks. Map 1 B2.
sight’s position on the
7–27 Circular Quay West; The Rocks.
Map 1 B2.  Sydney Explorer, 431,
432, 433, 434.  
432, 433, 434.

7:5-:4A
<0-
8:-;-:>-
7.

?-)4<0A
5-:+0)6<;
;)147:;

?):-07=;-;
*76,
;<7:-;
8=*;

)6,
;078
.:76<;
<0)<
:-.4-+<
<0-

):-);
5):1<15-
01;<7:A
>-6

<0-
=;-=5
7.
76<-587:):A

Tel 9255 1788.  Sydney Explorer,
339, 340, 431, 432, 433, 434.

9am–6pm daily.  25 Dec.  
area map and its place in
6

<0-
$+7<<1;0

5-:+0)6<
#7*-:<
)58*-44

;)14-,
16<7
$A,6-A
7>-
)6,

)6,
<0-
+1<A;
?7:316/
+4);;

-7:/-
$<:--<
<7,)A
1;
)

:<
 


+76;<:=+<-,

,=:16/
<0-
 ;
*-/)6
1<;
41.-

878=4):
)<<:)+<176
?1<0
>1;1<7:;
);
<0-
):1<15-
$-:>1+-;

;776
-;<)*41;0-,
015;-4.
);
)
<7
$A,6-A
?07
):-
,:)?6
<7
7):,;
),5161;<:)<176
7..1+-;
=14<
16

);
47,/16/;
.7:

>1;1<16/
;)147:;
<0-
*=14,16/
1;

67?
=;-,
);
)6
-@01*1<176

+-6<:-
%0-
;0)8-,
?16/

the chapter.
.7=6,16/
.)<0-:
7.
+755-:+-
1<;
:-;<)=:)6<;
):<
/)44-:1-;
6
<0-
-):4A
;
=6176
<0)<
.:76<;
76<7
-7:/-
$<:--<

.7:
<0-
6-?
+7476A
'1<0
5=;-=5;
2-?-44-:A
;<7:-;
?7:3-:;
84)+-,
C/:--6
*)6;E
?);
),,-,
16


<:),-
4163;
)4:-),A
-;<)*41;0-,
)6,
+:).<
;7=>-61:
;078;
7:
76
<0-
,-5741<176
7.
%0-
<
<0-
<15-
1<
?);
*=14<
<0-

16
)4+=<<)
01;
*=;16-;;
76-;<78
5-5-6<7
)6,
/1.<
#7+3;  
 
%0-;-
;<:--<;
$)147:;
75-
?);
)
?-4+75-

*47;;75-,
6

)58*-44
;078816/
1<
1;
1,-)4
?1<0
41<<4-
0),
*--6
+76;1,-:-,
;4=5
)4<-:6)<1>-
<7
<0-
5)6A
;--,A

*-/)6
+76;<:=+<16/
)
8:1>)<-
7.
<0-
5);;8:7,=+-,
)6,
):-);
*A
<0-
/7>-:65-6<
7.
166;
)6,
*:7<0-4;
16
<0-
):-)

?0):.
)6,
;<7:-;
<7
07=;-
<0-
<)+3A
*=<
)
/:-)<
,-)4
16
<0-
<0-
,)A
7?->-:
5)6A
7.
;)>16/
;)147:;
.:75
<0-
8-:14;

<-)
;=/):
;81:1<;
)6,
+47<0
0-
?)A
7.
57,-:6
=;<:)41)6

1587:<-,
.:75
6,1)
%?-4>-
+:).<
7.
)
>-:A
01/0
+)41*:-

;)6,;<76-
*)A;
0),
*--6
?1<0
5)6A
=619=-
81-+-;
<0-
*=14,16/;
16
-7:/-
$<:--<

?-:-
:-;<7:-,
)6,
):-
67?

41;<-,
*A
<0-
)<176)4
%:=;<

7.
C+:15816/E
C:158;E
?7=4,

<-58<
6-?4A
)::1>-,
5-6
16<7

47,/16/;
)6,
*):;
8:7>1,16/

The visitors’ checklist
*=14<
*A

)6,
)
*:1+3

=88-:
;<7:-A
?);
),,-,
16

)*7=<

!):<
7.
<0-
74,

6-
7.
$A,6-A;
7:1/16)4

<07:7=/0.):-;
D
;75-
;)A

=;<:)41);
.1:;<
;<:--<
D
1<
:)6

;-)
?)44
)6,

7.
<0-
7:1/16)4
.:75
<0-
5)16
?)<-:
;=884A

%0-
#7+3;
:-5)16;
)
>1*:)6<

8):<
7.
<0-
+1<A
?1<0
-7:/-

$<:--<
)<
1<;
0=*

5):3-<
1;

0-4,
0-:-
->-:A
?--3-6,

5=+0;7=/0<).<-:
-6<-:<)16
5-6<
'014-
,:=63
<0-
;)147:;

?7=4,
*-
;74,
76
<7
,-8):<16/

;018;
?)316/
514-;
7=<
)<
;-)

provides all the practical
;<7:-;
;<144
:-5)16
%0-
):-)

;776
<773
76
<0-
6)5-
7.

)58*-44;
7>-
?01+0
1<

:-<)16;
<7
<01;
,)A
<0-
%)63
$<:-)5
<7
<0-
<16A

?);
367?6
);
$8:16/
$<:--<

6
 
1<
?);
:-6)5-,
16

?0-6
8):<
7.
<0-
;<:--<
1;

+755=61<A
16
<0-
#7+3;
)6,
+47;-,
7..
<7
<:)..1+
 
 
Old-style Australian products at the corner shop, Susannah Place

-@01*1<176;
76
<0-
01;<7:A
7.

%0-
#7+3;
16+4=,16/
,1;84)A;

)6,
:-<=:616/
075-
16
,-*<
$)147:;
=;-,
<0-
075-
=6<14

41>16/
+76,1<176;
7.
1<;
160)*1 
?0-6
1<
?);
),)8<-,
.7:

<)6<;
#)<0-:
<0)6
:-+:-)<16/
=;-
);
)
8=88-<
<0-)<:-
:75

information needed to



%7,)A
<0-
*76,
;<7:-;

+76<)16
;->-:)4
0):*7=:;1,-

0767=:
7.
-7:/-

-7:/-

$<:--<
<7,)A
:=6;
)44
<0-
?)A

:-;<)=:)6<;
+)<-:16/
.7:
)
:)6/-
.:75
<0-
):*7=:
:1,/-
<7

7.
<);<-;
.:75
+76<-587:):A
<0-
-6<:)4
#)14?)A
$<)<176



 
76
1<;
.1:;<
160)*1<)6<;
<0-

),1/)4
8-784-
)6,
$A,6-A;

)
;16/4-
8-:17,
<0-
5=;-=5

5):1<15-
01;<7:A
)6,
<:),1<176;
5),-
*A
;=++-;;1>-
<-6)6<;
16
<0-
<0
)6,
<0
+-6<=:1-; =14<
.7:
,?):,
)6,
):A


=6<14


1<
?);
=;-,

:-<)16;
<0-
5)6A
:-67>)<176;
);
)
0-:1<)/-
+-6<:-
)6,
)

<7=:1;<
16.7:5)<176
)6,
<7=:
*77316/
.)+141<A
plan your visit.
<7
016-;-
)6,
<)41)6
<
1;
)
67:<0
7.
016)<7?6 
=619=-
+744-+<176
7.
):+0 #14-A
?07
)::1>-,
.:75
:-4)6,
!-:5)6-6<
-@01*1<176;
76

,-41/0<.=4
):-)
16
?01+0
<7
)6A
<0+-6<=:A
*=14,16/;
2–6 Kendall Lane, The Rocks. Map 1 )-747/1+)4
):<1.)+<;
)6,
01;< ?1<0
<0-1:
61-+-
$=;)66)0
16
<0-
.1:;<
)6,
;-+76,
4->-4;

:-4)@
?1<0
)
5-)4
)6,
?)<+0
:-5)16
;=+0
);
<0-

B2. Tel 9251 9793.  Circular 7:1+)4
15)/-;
,)<16/
.:75
<0-

<0-;-
;741,
07=;-;
0)>-
7=<416-
<0-
):+0)-747/1+)4

<0-
*=;<416/
*7)<;
16
<0-
7=6<16/
7=;-
)<
7

Quay.  Sydney Explorer, 431, 432, -):4A
-;<)*41;05-6<
7.
<0-
*);-5-6<
31<+0-6;
)6,
*)+3 ):+01<-+<=:)4
)6,
;7+1)4

0):*7=:
/7
*A
%0-
8=44-A;
<0-
4,
!741+-
;<)<176
)<
7
433, 434.
10am–5:30pm daily. =:78-)6
+7476A
A):,
7=<07=;-;
0-:1<)/-
7.
%0-
#7+3;
%0-

<0)<
?-:-
=;-,
<7
:)1;-
+):/7


 

)6,
<0-
#=;;-44
<7
<0-
87;<?):
766-+<176;
<7
<01:,
4->-4
07;<;
<-587:):A

.:75
<0-
?0):.
+)6
;<144
*-
7<-4
)<
7

  %01;
5=;-=5
;+0-,=4-,
<7
-:)
0-48;
>1;1<7:;
818-,
?)<-:
)6,
-@01*1<176;
6
<0-
;)5-

;--6
76
<0-
7=<;1,-
6-):
<0-
=<
1<
1;
%0-
#7+3;
-6,
<0)<
78-6
16


1;
16
)
:-;<7:-,
-@847:-
<0-
;-?-:)/-
0),

4->-4
)<
<0-
-);<-:6
-6,
)
 !    !
   
 !
      
    
  
      
 ! 
<78
7.
<0-
*=14,16/ 57;<
:-.4-+<;
?0)<
<0-
-):4A
 ;
+7)+0
07=;-
)6,
0);
->-6<.=4
)6,
8:7*)*4A
)::1>-,
:-+:-)<176
7.
)
<0+-6<=:A

+747=:.=4
01;<7:A
*A
<0-
51,  ;
;4--816/
+=*1+4-
/1>-;

7.
<01;
6-1/0*7=: %0-
5=;-=5
;=: >1;1<7:;
)
/77,
158:-;;176
7.

077,
%0-

Billy Tea on sale at the
Susannah Place shop >-A;
<0-
07=;-;



 

<0-
;8):<)6
6)<=:-
7.
<0-


"!$&
 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
,1;84)A;
):-
,->-4785-6<
7>-:
7:1/16)4
)++7557,)<176
)*3
*3
4)&
-"2(&34

-60)6+-,
*A
16<-:)+<1>-
01/0 <0-
A-):;
.:75
?77,
)6,
+7)4
)>)14)*4-
<7
;)147:; /
#4*,%*.(
/.
&"13)
,//+2
,*+&
3)&
8%.&8
)"--
7*4)
3&"4*/(
'02
Bennelong Point. Map 1 C2.
0&1"
/42&
/04,"1,8
+./6.
"2
3)&
Tel 9250 7111. Box Office 9250
<-+0
<7=+0
;+:--6;
)6,
<7
/);
)6,
-4-+<:1+1<A
?01+0

 
4
*3
53&%
'02

7777.
Sydney Explorer, 324,
)=,17>1;=)4
-@01*1<; -6)*4-;
<0-
>1;1<7:
<7
/)=/-
90&1"
/42&:
,/.(
#&'/1&
3)&
#4*,%*.(
6"2
39.1)0/9
$)02"-
438, 440.  Circular Quay. 
<0-
/:),=)4
41/0<-616/
7.
<0-
$/-0,&3&
*3
*2
*.
'"$3
"
$/-0,&7
/'
3)&"31&2
+"::
'0-,
"/%
101
Circular Quay.
tours and per-
*=:,-6
7.
,75-;<1+
4)*7=: ".%
)",,2
,*.+&%
#&.&"3)
*32
'"-/42
2)&,,2
32
$0/$&243
$)".#&2
formances.   limited (9250



 %0-
<-::)+-
16+4=,16/
)
+7: #*13)
6"2
,/.(
".%
$/-0,*$"3&%
".8
/'
3)&
.53*$
01&2"
%"/$&
7777).  9am– 5pm daily (except
6-:
/:7+-:;
;078
-;+)8-,
<0-
$/.2314$3*/.
01/#,&-2
)"%
./3
#&&.
'"$&%
"/%
&6&294)*/(
'20.
Good Fri, 25 Dec). Call in advance
58–64 Gloucester St, The Rocks. Map ?074-;)4-
,-5741<176;
<0)<

1 B2. Tel 9241 1893.  Circular 7++=::-,
).<-:
<0-
7=<*:-)3
7.
#&'/1&
1&24,3*.(
*.
".
"1$)*3&$341",
"%5&.341&
#0%9
#5*-%*/(
40
(9250 7209).   
Advertising 6)*$)
,"23&%

8&"12
3&&
1 
.
"00&",
'"3)*0/
1"2"%&3 www.sydneyoperahouse.com
Quay, Wynyard.  Sydney Explorer, *=*761+
84)/=-
16

);

poster
431, 432, 433, 434.
Jan: 10am– ?-44
);
4)<-:
+4-):16/;
7.
4)6,
'4.%
6"2
2&3
40
&5&.34",,8
1"*2*.(


5pm daily; Feb– Dec: 10am– 5pm Sat & <7
5)3-
?)A
.7:
<0-
$A,6-A
6)*,&
3)&
0&1"
/42&
/33&18
1"*2&%
3)&
#",".$&
/'
3)&

Sun.  Good Fri, 25 Dec.    ):*7=:
:1,/-
)6,
<0-
)0144
 

-*,,*/.
'*.",
$/23
2
6&,,
"2
#&*.(
3)&
$*382
-/23

#$
&$ The Monumental Steps '' 
&

!!"!
@8:-;;?)A
6
<0-
;
1<
0/04,"1
3/41*23
"331"$3*/.
3)&
8%.&8
0&1"
/42&
*2
"*/-9
53&%
'02
01&2"
"/%
".%
'/1&$/413
"1&
42&%
)*3
%2"."4*$
"/%
&-&("/4

%01;

<-::)+-
7.
.7=:
?);
;)>-,
76+-
)/)16
?0-6
'/1
/43%//1

",2/
/.&
/'
3)&
6/1,%2
#42*&23
0&1'/1-*.(
"132
$&.31&2 #"--&4
4)*3
 3&"4
4)&"42&
0&1'/1-".$&2
6&/5&
*3
0/&
0'
4)&
'*/&34

*:1+3
)6,
;)6,;<76-
07=;-;
0); <0-
=14,-:;
)*7=:-:;
-,-: *3
#*(
&/05()
40
34"(&
(2"/%
2&34"52"/43
*/
9%/&9

)
:):-
01;<7:A
7.
+76<16=7=;
)<176
=6,-:
<0-
4-),-:;018
7.
01&2"3
35$)
"3
&2%*3
*%"
,75-;<1+
7++=8)6+A
.:75
<0-
)+<1>1;<
)+3
=6,-A
1587;-,
2&&
0 
;
:1/0<
<0:7=/0
<7

)
+76;-:>)<176
C/:--6
*)6E
76
The Opera Theatre
%0-
5=;-=5
67?
07=;-,
0-:-
%0-
#7+3;
 
 
<-587:): $&*,*.(
".%
6",,2
"1&

-@)516-;
<01;
?7:316/+4);;
14A
0)4<16/
)44
,-5741<176
)6,
Interior of the Sailors’ Home, 0"*.3&%
#,"$+
3/
'/$42

Umbrellas shade the terrace restaurants overlooking the waterfront at Campbell’s Storehouses ,75-;<1+
01;<7:A
->7316/
<0-
:-,->-4785-6<
?7:3 looking down to the shop
"33&.3*/.
/.
3)&
23"(&

&
"

"%%'
$ !
 

)&
.52"-
*/
4)&
1&2"
)&"42&
'09&2
*3
#9

Detailed information
3
*$)"&-
+","."22"
&-30/
"/
"24*34

'20.
4)&
$&/42"-
5342"-*"/
%&3&24

on each sight
All the important sights in Sydney The Playhouse
2&"3*.(
",-/23

*2

*%&",
'/1
*.3*-"3&
01/%4$3*/.2
6)*,&
",2/

are described individually. They 

""%

"#,&
3/
01&2&.3
0,"82
6*3)
,"1(&1
$"232

-4)05()
"10$

are listed in order, following the #$
"'%
()

291)"-
4)&
4)&029
4)"4

;2/
4:0/3
"2$)&%
200'

%&3*(/
$".&
40
)*.
7)*-&
1&&-*/(

84&/3*6&
15#-*$
7"-,7"93
"/
02"/(&
*3
"11&"-*/(
)&
)*()&34

numbering on the area map. "205/%
4)&
#5*-%*/(
0''&2

4)&
6*3*402
6*&73
'20.
."/9

%*''&2&/4
6"/4"(&
10*/43
10*/4
*3

.


'4
"#06&
3&"
-&6&-

"$&$!
")$%

Addresses and practical informa- STAR FEATURES

!*4)
31&$4"$5-"2
6*&73

06&2
4)&
)"2#052
4)&

&$&14*0/
"--
"/%
4)&

 The Roofs -"2(&
/024)&2/
'09&23
0'
&
"
&*"!%
#%&$)


tion are provided. The key to the  Concert Hall

 Opera Theatre
4)&
1&2"
)&"42&
"/%

0/$&24
"--
$"/
#&
)*2&%

'02
$0/'&2&/$&3
-5/$)&3

;2/
4:0/3
02*(*/"-
%&3*(/
'02
4)*3
0#&-*/
349-&
4"1&3429
7)*$)
)"/(3
'-002
40
$&*-*/(
*/

4)&
2&.0%&--&%
&$&14*0/
"--
7"3
*/31*2&%

1"24*&3
"/%
7&%%*/(3 #9
4)&
.53*$
0'
"2-
)*-*11
."/5&-
"$)

symbols used in the information

block is on the back flap.
Sydney’s top sights

Stars indicate
4Museums and galleries
have colour-coded floorplans
the features
to help you locate the most
no visitor
should miss. interesting exhibits; historic
buildings are dissected to
reveal their interiors.
INTRODUCING
SYDNEY

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN SYDNEY 1011

PUTTING SYDNEY ON THE MAP 1217
THE HISTORY OF SYDNEY 1831
SYDNEY AT A GLANCE 3247
SYDNEY THROUGH THE YEAR 4851
SPORTING SYDNEY 5255
THE CITY SHORELINE 5659
10 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN SYDNEY

P lanning a one-day itinerary
to take in the best that
Sydney has to offer need
not be a challenge. The magnifi-
cent harbour or beaches, as well as
Sydney, all accessible by public
transport. They are designed to
be flexible – you might choose to
leave out some stops or include
other attractions that are nearby.
cultural and architectural highlights, Prices show the cost for two
would ideally be included. These adults or for a family of two
four itineraries offer a mix of ,PBMB
BU
a d u l t s a n d t w o c h i l d r e n ,
activities in different parts of 5BSPOHB
;PP including food and drinks.

fish and chips and eat them

on the beach, or try some
parasailing, boating or kayak-
ing on offer at the jetty. Treat
yourself to a beer at the
Manly Wharf Hotel (see
p191) where you can find a
window seat and watch the
sunset over the harbour.
End the day with the fast
ferry back to Circular Quay.

ART AND OPERA

t
$PMPOJBM
CVJMEJOHT
PO

.BDRVBSJF
4USFFU
4ZEOFZ
0QFSB
)PVTF
BOE
)BSCPVS
#SJEHF
CZ
OJHIU t
"CPSJHJOBM
BSU
BU
UIF

:JSJCBOB
(BMMFSZ
(see pp68–9). Cobblestoned t
5IF
3PZBM
#PUBOJD
(BSEFOT
AROUND THE HARBOUR alleys lead to the original t
4ZEOFZ
0QFSB
)PVTF
docks of Old Sydney Town at
t
5IF
WJFX
GSPN
4ZEOFZ
$BNQCFMMT
4UPSF
IPVTFT (see 580
"%6-54 allow at least $140
)BSCPVS
#SJEHF p66) and $BENBOT
$PUUBHF
t
"
UPVS
PG
5IF
3PDLT (see p68), Sydney’s oldest .PSOJOH
t
'FSSZ
SJEF
UP
.BOMZ surviving dwelling. Stroll down .BDRVBSJF
4USFFU
t
4VOTFU
PWFS
UIF
IBSCPVS (see pp112–15), named after
"GUFSOPPO Governor Lachlan Macquarie.
580
"%6-54 allow at least $110 Enjoy a classic ferry trip to You can still see several of
.BOMZ (see p133). Once there, the buildings he commis-
.PSOJOH stroll down the Corso to the sioned here. Other architec-
Start early at an Australian ocean beach or walk around tural gems include the )ZEF

icon, the 4ZEOFZ
)BSCPVS
the headland (pp146–7). Buy 1BSL
#BSSBDLT (see pp114–15)
#SJEHF (see pp70–71), built in and 4U
+BNFT
$IVSDI (see
1932. Cross on the pedestrian p115) both designed by
walkway or, from $179 per convict James Greenway.
person, let BridgeClimb The old Rum Hospital now
guide you to the top of the houses the 4ZEOFZ
.JOU (see
steel arch bridge (bookings p114) and
1BSMJBNFOU
)PVTF
are essential). Climbs depart (see pp112–13) where free
every ten minutes, and take tours run every half hour. At
3.5 hours including orienta- the 4UBUF
-JCSBSZ
PG
/48 (see
tion. The view at the top is p112), you can tread on a
well worth it. Recharge with mosaic replica of the Tasman
a pit stop at the Gumnut Café Map, illustrating 17th-century
(see p195), where you can voyages to Australia.
choose from fresh fruit
juices, cakes and scones. "GUFSOPPO
Explore the historic Rocks Across 5IF
%PNBJO (see
area where you’ll find the p107), the "SU
(BMMFSZ
PG
/FX
convict-carved Argyle Cut and )FOSZ
.PPSF
TDVMQUVSF
PVUTJEF
UIF
4PVUI
8BMFT (see pp108–11)
the military (BSSJTPO
$IVSDI "SU
(BMMFSZ
PG
/FX
4PVUI
8BMFT houses both traditional and
 F O U R G R E A T D AY S I N S Y D N E Y 11

modern Aboriginal art in the

Yiribana Gallery, the largest
space in the world devoted
to the art of Indigenous
Australians. Rest weary legs
with lunch in the gallery’s
café (see p195), then stroll
along to the scenic .ST

.BDRVBSJFT
$IBJS (see p106)
for a fine view across the
harbour before taking the
Fleet Steps down the hill into
the 3PZBM
#PUBOJD
(BSEFOT (see
pp104–5). On the other side
of Farm Cove is 4ZEOFZ
0QFSB
)PVTF (see pp74–7). Stop in at
the Opera Bar (see p197), (JSBGGF
BU
5BSPOHB
;PP
PO
UIF
GPSFTIPSF
PG
4ZEOFZ
)BSCPVS
then take a tour of the world-
famous building (booking is walk (see pp144–5). When
recommended). If you want you reach Bronte, order a '".*-:
'6/
to make an evening of it, for juice at Swell (see p195)
an extra cost you can book then head to Oxford Street, t
"
TQJO
PO
UIF
.POPSBJM
tickets for an opera, play or Paddington, to begin t
'FSSZ
BOE
4LZ
4BGBSJ
concert. Last-minute tickets browsing the glamorous t
,PBMBT
LBOHBSPPT
BOE

are sometimes available. boutiques. The renowned QMBUZQVTFT
BU
5BSPOHB
;PP
1BEEJOHUPO
.BSLFUT (see p126) t
6Q
IJHI
JO
4ZEOFZ
5PXFS
are open every Saturday.
#&"$)&4
"/%
'".*-:
0'
 allow at least $196
#3084*/( "GUFSOPPO
Take lunch in the courtyard at .PSOJOH
t
#SFBLGBTU
BU
#POEJ Sloane’s (see p195) then, if Start with a 12-minute loop
t
"
DMJGGUPQ
DPOTUJUVUJPOBM you wish, spend all your cash on the Monorail (see pp232–
t
'BTIJPO
UFSSBDFT
BOE
at Collette Dinnigan’s store 3), which offers good
HBMMFSJFT
JO
1BEEJOHUPO (see p205). Stop by the views of Darling Harbour,
t
$PDLUBJMT
PO
UIF
'JOHFS
London Tavern (see p124), Chinatown and odd peeks
8IBSG the area’s oldest pub, before into office windows. Buy a
exploring the streets of ter- ZooPass from Circular Quay
580
"%6-54 allow at least $114 raced houses near Five Ways. then take a ferry to 5BSPOHB

Admire the art at Tim Olsen ;PP (see pp134–5). Once
.PSOJOH Gallery (No. 72a Windsor there, your ZooPass includes
Have breakfast at #POEJ
Street), Australian Galleries the Sky Safari cable car ride
#FBDIT (see p137) Icebergs Works On Paper (No. 24 to the main entrance. Here
Bistro at the legendary Bondi Glenmore Road) and Hogarth you’ll find information on
Icebergs, where you can Galleries, (No. 7 Walker koala viewing and the daily
admire the view and, no Lane). Later, have a drink at seal and bird shows. Spend
matter how cold the weather, the Tilbury Hotel (see p197) the morning exploring
watch the diehard swimmers in Woolloomooloo and cap the zoo, making sure you
do laps. Then stretch your off the day with a pie from stop by all of the native
legs with the Bondi-to-Bronte Harry’s Café De Wheels (see Australian animals, including
section of the famous cliff p195) on the Finger Wharf. monotremes, platypuses and
echidnas. Buy ice creams to
eat as you walk.

"GUFSOPPO
Have lunch at one of the
many kiosks in the zoo,
before heading back to the
wharf for the return ferry.
Finish off the day at 4ZEOFZ

5PXFS (see p83), and ride the
lift to the Observation Deck
for a simulated tour of
Australia on the Oz-Trek ride.
Use a telescope to spot the
zoo and other landmarks, or
#BUIFST
FOKPZJOH
UIF
HPMEFO
TBOE
BOE
TVSG
BU
#SPOUF
#FBDI simply enjoy the sunset.
12 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Putting Sydney on the Map

Situated on Australia ’s eastern coastline within the
state of New South Wales, Sydney spreads with #BUIVSTU
the rare luxury of space – 3,700 sq km (1,430 sq miles) *TMBOE
in all – around what is often described as one
5 J N P S

%BSXJO

of the finest harbours in the world. Greater / "SOIFN

Sydney is home to over 4 million people 4 F B

"
and, while it is not the nation’s ,BUIFSJOF

&
capital, it is Australia’s oldest and
8ZOEIBN 
largest city, as well as its media

7JDUPSJB

and financial centre. Sydney is 

0SE
also the main gateway to
Australia and it enjoys good
%FSCZ
air, road and rail links to / #SPPNF
'JU[S
other major centres. " PZ

* ./24
% 
/
* 1PSU
)FEMBOE
5FOOBOU
$SFFL


,BSSBUIB

4%22)
-BLF
.BDLBZ
-BLF
%JTBQQPJOUNFOU
/FXNBO "MJDF


4QSJOHT
! 5 3 4 2
$BSOBSWPO
7 % 3 4 % 2 .
 5LURU
!YERS2OCK
! 5 3 4 2 ! , ) !


(FSBMEUPO

3 / 5 4 ( 
,BMHPPSMJF



1FSUI
'SFNBOUMF
(SFBU
 
&TQFSBODF "VTUSBMJBO
#JHIU
"VHVTUB
$BQF

-FFVXJO "MCBOZ

./24(
+/2%!
#().! 3/54(
*!0!.

!.

+/2%!
)34

1"$*'*$
0!+

"(54!.
).$)! 4!)7!. 0$&"/
"52-!
4(!),!.$
0(),)00).%3
#!-"/$)!
-!23(!,,
)3,!.$3
- ! , !9 3 ) ! -)#2/.%3)!
-!,$)6%3

) . $ / . % 3 ) ! 0!05!
.%7
'5).%! 3/,/-/.
)3,!.$3
*/%*"/
0$&"/ 6!.5!45
&)*)

!5 3 4 2 ! , ) !

.%7
SOUTHEAST ASIA :%!,!.$
AND THE PACIFIC RIM Aerial view of Sydney, looking from the
mouth of Port Jackson towards the city
 P U T T I N G S Y D N E Y O N T H E M A P 13

GREATER SYDNEY AND ENVIRONS




BJU
3JDINPOE

4US
SFT
8JOETPS
" S B G V S B
4 F B
5P S $BQF
:PSL


.POB


)PSOTCZ 7BMF


1FOSJUI #MBDLUPXO
See next page
(VMG

-BOE








8

FTUFSO
XZ

.

(SPPUF
PG
&ZMBOEU
$BSQFOUBSJB -JWFSQPPM
3YDNEY


!IRPORT
$PPLUPXO

BO



0 DF
.PSOJOHUPO

*TMBOE

mD


DJ

4VUIFSMBOE

1B


$BJSOT


$BNEFO
$BNQCFMMUPXO

( % 2 .
'MJO

(
5PXOTWJMMF SF

1
EF

BU
ST



#

"
 
BS
.PVOU
*TB .BDLBZ SJ

$
FS

3
4/29

*
FF

'
G

1 5 % % . 3 , ! . $
-POHSFBDI 3PDLIBNQUPO

! , ) ! *
$

B

#MBDLBMM
U JO


'SBTFS

BO

*TMBOE
N

B
%J
0 $ & " /

$IBSMFWJMMF 
.BSPPDIZEPSF

#SJTCBOF
5PPXPPNCB
-BLF $PPMBOHBUUB
&ZSF 
$PPCFS

1FEZ .PSFF
! 5 3 4 2 ! , ) ! #PVSLF
 
-BLF
5PSSFOT H
 $PGGT
)BSCPVS
S MJO
-BLF


%B .%7
(BJSEOFS
#SPLFO
)JMM
3/54(
$FEVOB %VCCP
8IZBMMB 7! , % 3 .BJUMBOE /FXDBTUMF


1PSU
.VS SBZ
4:%/&:

-JODPMO .JMEVSB 8PMMPOHPOH
"EFMBJEF
8BHHB
8BHHB $"/#&33"
  !5342!,)!.
,BOHBSPP
#!0)4!,
*TMBOE 
6)#4/2)! 
4%22)4/29
.FMCPVSOF
KEY

(FFMPOH
B

Greater Sydney
4 F

,JOH
# BT T
4 U S B J U
'MJOEFST
International airport

O

*TMBOE *TMBOE
Domestic airport
N B

Passenger ship terminal

-BVODFTUPO
5 B T

Freeway or motorway
4!3-!.)!
Highway
)PCBSU
0 kilometres 500
Railway
0 miles 250 State boundary
14 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

.EWCASTLE
1:.#-&
Central Sydney and Suburbs 
Sydney has gradually expanded to fill both sides -"/&
$07&
of the harbour. Parramatta to the west was once a /"5*0/"-
separate settlement, but is now very much a part 1"3, 
of the city. To the east are the beaches and seaside

1"
%

$
suburbs that have come to typify Sydney living.

30"

*'
*$
-B
The area as a whole is served by CityRail lines OF

"

-
%

% &

$ :
and roads. 0"%  &

PW F
1
%

%


3 3 1
'0 &11*/(

("
"%
-*/( *
"

$"3
0

/

3

.
$ , 4
"6#63/
30

&


0

:


5)

3
/03
3

." 0"
3J

%3

#- "9
-4 3
%

*-

*7&
) 4

WFS
5

"/
%

//
&/

-"

7INDSOR 1&

%
/

"
%

0

3


5
45 3&&

(&

&
0" -BOF

3

-&%

7

3 0 " % 365 %
$P
W
30"%

F
5

$0
 5

*/ VO

1*558

1 0 O FM

4*/(

&1

&

, *4

1
/

3 0 " %

"5 & 3

*/
"
 (

-


 7

*$
%

5
0ARRAMATTA 0
3
3:%&
"

7 *$ *"
503*"

0

1"33"."55" 3

3 0"
-EADOWBANK
2YDALMERE 3 

%
0
 "
%


3:%&

0ENRITH 4JMWFSXBUFS
3ZEF

#SJEHF )0.&#64)
#SJEHF
#":

3

'JH
5SFF

&3

0
#SJEHF

"
 1B

%
5

SS

8"

8 BN
&4
B

&3

5& UU
3/ B

7

1" 3 JW (MBEFTWJMMF

4*-

$0/

33
FS #SJEHF
".
"5 .

!BBOTSFORD $RUMMOYNE

%3*7&

5"
$03

'LADESVILLE

0
5
0

7*
)
#":

3
3%

8 #HISWICK

$5


" "
:
64

0
30


%

3
"
#

& "

*"
% . 0

)0
30"

3

4

0/
%

-:
"6#63/ 



( 3 &
$&

" 5
&5

8
/5



453&

#63800%
&/

&

453"5)'*&-%


3 0 " %

4
"

30"%
3:

&5

5

%

3"

3& "
&


%

.
1)

45
0
4"
3

3
*$,
#64)

3*7&

:
/
%&3

45

%" 3 - & :


+04&


'3&

)
)0.&

*
(
00%

)

8 " :
-* %

KEY 7&
0"

31

#638

00 "4)'*&-%

3

-


Central Sydney
0"%

3
%

%
3:

0"




3
#6

7&3


30"

3*
&3

Parks and reserves 4


#63:

/5

3(& &3
(&0
$"

/5
%

$"
30#&354

Sydney Olympic Park

0-


/&8 .
"3
3*$
Airport
%

,7
"

*--
&

0

3

Central Railway Station "%


3 0 $PPLT

-",&.#"
-
8

Ferry boarding point

0

#

3 JW F
)

S

#&

3:
$

#6
/

9-

RiverCat boarding point

6

&3
1

&:

" /5 &
453& 5

$
*".

Metroad route 8*--
8

 "%
,*/(4(

3 0
3 0

(

Freeway or motorway



" *

%4 % )
*&-

307&

&'
03
Major road .0

,*/

%
0"



3




3 0"

45


(

3&
Minor road
5

'0
:
4



4

%
(

#05"/
&0

$&

Railway  $3 & &,

3 0 " %

3(

*/

& :
&4

0 /
13

4 5
8&45

Tunnel

3 0

)63457*--&
"

7OLLONGONG
%


 P U T T I N G S Y D N E Y O N T H E M A P 15

4ERREY(ILLS  0ALM
.ARRABEEN "%

"EACH
 0

3
("3*("- %&&

/"5*0/"-
1"3, 8):

3

8 "3 3* &
 /( ") "5

8
30 "%

55


0 "%

1*
&"

3


45

)

("
&3

*/
/

"3

5
",
8

("3*("-

&

" 35

&
3
& )
/"5*0/"-

45
#300,7"-&
&3

63
*"

1"3, 1* 5
-

4 5



 ("3*("-



58

30

"
/"5*0/"-

5&
.*/&

"
) * (

3

%

1"3,

&

&&5

1"
"

453
4

"3:
)

8
5

3,
/%

"
&3

": #06 /%
1&

$0

8":
/

30


/4

"%

)6

  &
%/ :


34

4: 30 " ."/-:

5

%

7"

4
5

--

-ANLY7HARF
3 && 5


&:

#3 ":
3

0
"
8 %

0 4QJU

$)"54800% .
#SJEHF
8*--06()#

/ P S UI


)
.JEEM
F

" :

) 4:%/&:

30"%
B
S
)"3#063

:

C
P

BSC
/"5*0/"-
VS




PV
1"3,


S


30"%

3*
7&
3


3 0 "
%

"%

# 3 "% - & :

0

3
.*- *5" 3 :

4
)

/035)
O
&" %
30 " %

4:%/&:
-OSMAN
TP

.EUTRAL"AY
'REENWICH /LD#REMORNE
DL

(UNTERS(ILL +URRABA0OINT
3OUTH 7ATSONS
(IGH3T -OSMAN "AY
B

#OCKATOO ,UNA0ARK #REMORNE

+

4QFDUBDMF
$OCKYARD 0OINT

*TMBOE

-C-AHONS0T 4ARONGA
+IRRIBILLI :OO
$PDLBUPP

U

9URULBIN0OINT (PBU
4ZEOFZ
)BSCPVS
#SJEHF

"IRKENHEAD
0OINT
*TMBOE
*TMBOE 4ZEOFZ
)BSCPVS
5VOOFM S
1P
"ALMAIN7EST 7"6$-64&
4HAMES3T 'PSU
%FOJTPO
*SPO
$PWF
$ARLING #IRCULAR 'ARDEN 

#SJEHF #"-."*/
%

3TREET 1UAY )SLAND 4IBSL
*TMBOE

3 0"
0 " %

3
0 $MBSL
*TMBOE
"
% 2OSE

$ARLING "AY
(&03

$ARLING
3

0OINT
%

% (ARBOUR
"

. * - * 5 " 3 :

"

$SPTT
$JUZ

30

$OUBLE
)&
( &

5VOOFM "AY  4 06 "%

5) )&
&&5

%06#-&
4:%/&: 


/

#":
065)

8

453


453&&5

. "*

&

/
0/

0$&

4633:

3 0"
/45
#"-

)*--4 09
4

(-&#& '0
"/
4
&&5

#0/%*
+0)

3%



%

3&&5

45 +6/$5*0/
53&&

-&*$))"3%5



453

3& -
 
&5
0





4 5

"/;

: #0 / % #0/%*
" *




30
,&

)8 "%
"$

8-*/(
*(

)
6 3



%

30"% $&/5&//*"-
0
0"

% 0

#

3



/&8508/
--

1"3,
)&

*5$

4065)
4:

."33*$,7*--&

1 " 3 " % &

453&&5
.
%
&/
)
"

$ -0
.

3

&5

7 &-
%

0

-:


4

"

3&

30"%
$&
%

30


3 0 "

"%
45

*/
3 $00(
1 &&
#"

:
3%


("3%&

/&34










$00(&&
"3%&/

3"*/#08
/

3 0 "






453&
"/:

%

&5
"
3%

% 3 * 7 &

5
03
0h3*0




:

#05
31


"

"
#6/
"*
8

/
."4$05
3YDNEY!IRPORT
;"$
/& 3 0 /

+INGSFORD3MITH



."306
(

& #3"

30"%
*7
.&4




%3
1"3

) 0-






0
#

"%&

'0 5" ."306#3" 0 kilometres 2

30"%

-

3& /:
"

4)

&3

0

3& 0

3

/

"%


3 0 miles 1
(&

0
"% ,A0EROUSE
16 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

3YDNEY
Central Sydney (ARBOUR
"RIDGE

":
This guide divides inner Sydney into

)8

%

%
"
"

)*(
30

0

3
six distinct areas, each of which has its

-%




/

'*&
3YDNEY

/

40

4 5

"%
own chapter. Most city sights are

0
5

/PERA

*$

03

,4
#3
)

'
(OUSE

)* $
&3
contained in these areas. The Rocks and

8
-0

&&5

&5

4ZEOFZ

Circular Quay is the oldest part of inner

3
4(%2/#+3

%
45

3&
$PWF "3 (: -&

45

45

-"/
Sydney, while the City Centre is today’s !.$#)2#5,!215!9

#&3
central business district. The Botanic

$6.



0#4&37"503:

$*3$6-"3
26":

,&/5

(&03(
1"3,

) * $ ,
-USEUMOF

&&5
Gardens and The Domain form a green #ONTEMPORARY

453
!RT
oasis almost in the heart of the city. To

4 0 /

453&
$")*--
&913&
50--
448":

6"3*&
the west lies Darling Harbour, which

&5

10*/5

1*55


453&& 5
3&
&5

45

."$2
$JSDVMBS

includes Sydney’s Chinatown. To the east

(&03(&
(3047&/03

1-"$& 2VBZ
are Kings Cross and Darlinghurst, hub of

3 0 " %
(3047&/03
45

the café culture, and Paddington, # 3 * % ( &

4 5 3
& & 5

45 3&& 5

-USEUM
an area that still retains its OF3YDNEY

&




453&&5
19th-century character.

: 0 3 ,
$ - " 3 &

453&&5

*1

453&&5

*--
'

)
,&/5

&5 1
&5

."$26"3*
/ $ &

)









4 5 3 &
8ZOZBSE

4 5 3 &
1*55








(&03(&



453&

4 5 3 &
."35*/


!USTRALIAN

1-"$&
.ATIONAL 3YDNEY 5)&

& 5
&5
-ARITIME 7ILDLIFE7ORLD

&-*;"#&5)


.BSUJO

$"45-&3&"(
4 6 4 4

-USEUM 3YDNEY , * / (
#) 49 453&&

1MBDF %0."*/
3:

ç

!QUARIUM 5

-&
1ZSNPOU
#%. 42%
4 5 3 & &

"-
& 9

#BZ

(




(&03(&







453&&5
,&/5

&4
30"%
35
". "

+
)BSCPVSTJEF

45
5
1:

45

5







4 5 3 & & 4U
+BNFT

&-*;"#&5
%BSMJOH . " 3 , & 5


$JUZ
3.

$0--&(&
1BSL $FOUSF
0/

$PDLMF

3&&5
5

4 5 3 &

1)*--*1
#BZ
) ):%&

1"3,
(BMFSJFT
)

7JDUPSJB
"

5PXO

$00,
$POWFOUJPO
& 5
3 3

1 " 3 ,
1"3,
45

)BMM 4 5 3 &
* 4

& 5

3&

8*--
*".

45

453&&5
&5

# "5 ) 6 3
45







)
1"3,

"
4 5 3 & & 5

453&&5

!USTRALIAN

3
#0

-USEUM

63

Lord Nelson Hotel

4 5

This traditional pub in The -*7& .VTFVN

3 &

453&&

3100
-

&YIJCJUJPO $IJOBUPXO 453&&5

& 5

Rocks (see pp62–77) first -*7&31

5

8PSME
4RVBSF 00-
4
5

opened its doors in 1834.

0OWERHOUSE
-USEUM 1 * & 3

ç
$! 2,).'
4 5 3 & & 5

0
9
'0
5
$308/
4

(0 6- #6
(!2 "/5 2 3/


4 53
&& 5
3
453&&5

%
Its own specially brewed
&5

5

ç4 53 &&

45
453&

beers are available on tap. 3

&
&
5
1BEEZhT
.BSLFUT ) ":


453
& &5
ç

$BQJUPM
)

"

5 )

"% 4RVBSF

3 0
3 3

KEY 0



3(&

5*.
&-*;"#&
55
* 4

6-
1*
(&0

Major sight

&%

%:

"

4

7&
Other building /6
5 3

3"*-8":
&
426"3&
& &

CityRail station

$FOUSBM
5

5

&&

5

3BJMXBZ
&&
453
3&(

53

Monorail station 4UBUJPO

&/5

4
4
&

&3

4

-&

.
53&

$ )"-

Sydney Light Rail (S.R.L.) station

&5

Bus terminus

Coach station

Ferry boarding point

RiverCat boarding point Queen Victoria Building

This Romanesque former
Police station
produce market, built in
Parking the 1890s, forms part of a
Tourist information fine group of Victorian-era
buildings in the City
Hospital with casualty unit
Centre (see pp78–89). Now
Church a shopping mall, it retains
Synagogue many original features,
including its roof statues.
 P U T T I N G S Y D N E Y O N T H E M A P 17

Art Gallery of
'PSU
New South Wales
%FOJTPO
The city’s premier art
gallery is set in the
middle of parkland in
the Botanic Gardens and
The Domain (see
pp102–15). It houses a
fine collection of early
Australian, Aboriginal
%

and European art.

30"

'BSN

*&4

$PWF
"3
6
2
$

30:"-

"
.

#05"/*$

34

("3%&/4
.

"/4!.)#
'!2$%.3!.$
:

4(%$/-!).
8"
"%
30

3'
%
"

)"
0

!RT'ALLERYOF.EW

ç3

3&&5
8

3OUTH7ALES

$)"--*4

"7&


&3

1
&/5




45
5

$3
&4$ $08
3 & &

& 5

6/(
0 /*$)0-40

:
&

/
45
/
& ":

3


4 5

)
0


4 5

+
3
4*
."$-

)6 () &4


4 5 (3&&/,
/08&
"7 Elizabeth Bay near Potts Point
5
$308/
4

& ":
" .

3 %

A picturesque bay with fine views
0 3 * "

)

&5
6 ( )

"
#
&-*;
across Sydney Harbour, it is at the

%

3
,&
45

7 * $ 5

0"


* # 6 5 0

5
3
# 3 0

6&

&/ northern end of the Kings Cross and

34
&5
#063

7
6

,JOHT








453&

"
(

Darlinghurst area (see pp116–21).

*/

$SPTT
%

3-

% * 4 5 3

8"3

8 *-- *"
"

.

4 5
%

3&&5
'03#&4

,*
/(4
+ ). ' 3  #2/ 33
$30
44
30 " %
53&&5

Centennial Park



&

"

4 5 & 3 /

! .$ $3" * (

& / %


1"-.&3
4

45

$ ! 2 , ). ' ( 5234 & /6

&

This green expanse in

"7
-*7 &3 10 &3
")
Paddington (see pp122–7)


"%

0-


4 5 0.
5

8
was once part of a sand
30

453&&
,&
45

#6 35 0/


4 5
dune system that extended
5ç
34
#063

&
)6

/
6
5
from Botany Bay in

7&
(

*"

&&
5

*/

"
3

5":-03
3
3-

50

&&

the south.
45

426"3&
"

3
*$

.
%

0 45
7

/

3$ "3
:
#"
08

%
#06 /
#3

0 3 &

&5

.


/

3 0 " %
53&

&
0

( -

0 3 .0/ %
4 53 & &5

9
(
4

'
0
%0 8- */

3
%

45"''0

3%
53&&5

4ç 5
453&&5
3&
30"%

&5


40 65 )

: /


4

6
1"
/ %
% %

*/
4 & -8

0!$ $ ).'4 / .
(3&&/4

& (
3 50
0 8
9 0 /
0


' %


.0/

3&/ 0 ç


/:
4 3
4
53&& 53
5 % &&
. 0 0 3

"

$6 3

&
4 5
1 " 3 5
/

,
3
4 &
(

45 3&

3 0 5 &
0
;

" % 5
3

-&

3
%

*/
"

&5
&
0

45
&
/

&3
5
$

%

3

.003&
&&5

* .


4 5 3
4

7 4:%/&:
0 ç4 5 &/


5

0 && 5
3& 26&
3

1"3, '005#"--
3 &
4 53

&

&5

& 3

&4




&

+" .
5

45"%*6. 1" 09
,JQQBY
3 ,
ç

3 0 " %
'0
-BLF 3%
(3&

(0
3:
"
7&/ 453
6& & &5




/&

4:%/&:

"
" 7 & /

-"

$3*$,&5

0
1 " 3

(306/%

$&/5&//*"-

-

"
6 &

1"3,
/*

" %

5)&
&/5&35"*/.&/5

/

(
5&

26"35&3
/
&

- "
$&/

0 metres 250

0 yards 250
 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y 19

THE HISTORY OF SYDNEY

T he first inhabitants
of Australia were the
Aboriginal peoples.
Their history began in a
time called the Dreaming
after the Home Department’s
Secretary of State. Here,
1,485 convicts, guards,
officers, officials, wives
and children landed. This
when the Ancestor Spirits marked the beginning of
emerged from the earth and the rapid devastation of the
gave form to the landscape. Aboriginal peoples, as they
Anthropologists believe the Sydney’s coat of arms, fell to introduced diseases
Aboriginal peoples arrived Sydney Town Hall and battled an undeclared
from Asia more than 50,000 years ago. war against the settlers. Full citizen-
Clans lived in the area now known as ship rights were finally granted to the
Sydney, until the Europeans caused Aboriginal peoples in 1973, and their
violent disruption to this world. traditions are now accorded respect.
In 1768, Captain James Cook began The city of Sydney soon flourished,
a search for the fabled “great south with the construction of impressive
land”. Travelling in the wake of other public buildings befitting an emerging
European explorers, he was the first maritime power. In 1901, amid a
to set foot on the east coast of the land burgeoning nationalism, the fed-
the Dutch had named New Holland, eration drew the country’s six
and claimed it for King and country. colonies together and New South
He landed at Botany Bay in 1770, Wales became a state of Australia.
naming the coast New South Wales. In its two centuries of European
At the suggestion of Sir Joseph Banks, settlement, Sydney has experienced
Cook’s botanist on the Endeavour, a alternating periods of growth and
penal colony was established here to decline. It has weathered the effects
relieve Britain’s overflowing prisons. of gold rush and trade booms, depres-
The First Fleet of 11 ships reached sions and world wars, to establish a
Botany Bay in 1788, commanded by distinctive city marked by a vibrant
Captain Arthur Phillip. He felt the land eclecticism. The underlying British
there was swampy and the bay wind- culture, married with Aboriginal influ-
swept. Just to the north, however, he ences and successive waves of Asian
found “one of the finest harbours in and European migration, has produced
the world,” naming it Sydney Cove, today’s modern cosmopolitan city.

Sketch & Description of the Settlement at Sydney Cove (1788) by transported convict Francis Fowkes

Desmond, a New South Wales Chief (about 1825) by Augustus Earle

 20 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney’s Original Inhabitants

Anthropologists believe that Aboriginal peoples
reached Sydney Harbour at least 50,000 years
ago. One of the clans of coastal Sydney was
the Eora. Their campsites were usually close to
the shore, particularly in the summer when fish
were plentiful. Plant and animal foods supplemented
their seafood diet. Artistic expression was a way of
life, with their shields decorated with ochre, designs
Aborigines Fishing (1819)
Hafted carved on their implements, and their bodies
stone axe adorned with scars, animal teeth and feathers. Sixty-seven Eora canoes
were counted in the barbour
Sacred and social ceremonies are still vital today. Oral
on a single day. Spears were
traditions recount stories of the Dreaming (see p19) and
used as tools and weapons.
describe the Eora’s strong attachment to the land. Berowra
Waters

This Berowra Waters

carving is hard to inter-
pret; experts believe that
it may represent a koala.

The name Parramatta

means place where
eels lie down or sleep,
Glenbrook Crossing or the head of the river.
The Red Hand Caves near
Glenbrook in the lower Blue
Mountains contain stencils Glenbrook Parramatta
where ochre was blown
over outstretched hands.
Glenbrook Caves
ochre hand stencils Cabramatta

Cabramatta means
land where the cobra
grub is found.

Red Ochre and ABORIGINAL ROCK ART

Shell Paint Holder There are appxroximately 5,500 known rock art
Ochre was a common- sites in the Sydney basin alone. Early colonists such
ly used material in rock as Watkin Tench said that paintings and engravings
painting. Finely ground, then mixed were on every kind of surface. The history of col-
with water and a binding agent, it onization was also recorded in rock engravings,
would be applied by brush or hand. with depictions of the arrival of ships and fighting.

TIMELINE
43,000–38,000BC Tools 11,000 Burial site
found in a gravel pit 20,000 Humans lived in the excavated in
beside Nepean River are Blue Mountains despite extreme Victoria of more
among the oldest firmly conditions. Remains found of than 40 individuals
dated signs of human the largest mammal, Diprotodon, of this period
occupation in Australia Diprotodon date back to this period

50,000 BC 20,000 BC
28,000 Funerary rites at Lake Mungo,
NSW. Complete skeleton has been 18,000 People
found of man buried at this time now inhabit the
entire continent, 13,000 Final stages of Ice
from the deserts Age, with small glaciers
23,000 One of the world’s earliest known to the mountains in the Snowy Mountains
cremations carried out in Western NSW
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S Y D N E Y 21

WHERE TO SEE
ABORIGINAL ROCK
ART AND ARTIFACTS
Ku-ring-gai is The soft sandstone of Sydney
named after Hunting and Fishing Implements was a natural canvas. Much
clans who lived Multi-pronged Eora spears were used for of the rock art of the original
in this coastal dis- fishing, while canoes were shaped from a inhabitants remains and can
trict. It is rich in single piece of bark. Boomerangs are still be found on walking trails in
rock engravings. used today for hunting and music making. Ku-ring-gai Chase National
Park (see pp154–5) and the
Royal National Park (p165).
The National Parks & Wildlife
shop at Cadman’s Cottage
(p68) has a range of pam-
phlets about Aboriginal sites.

Fish Carving at West Head

This area in Ku-ring-gai Chase
has 51 figures and is acknow-
ledged as one of the richest sites
in the greater Sydney region. Gumbooya Reserve in sub-
urban Allambie Heights has a
Bondi is from collection of 68 rock carvings.
Allambie boondi, the This human figure appears to
Heights sound of water be inside or on top of a whale.
crashing. This
carving is of a
shark and fish.
Bondi

Shell Fish-Hooks This python skeleton is on view

Coogee Coogee means Introduced from the at the Australian Museum (see
bad smell of Torres Strait, these pp88–9), along with a large
Maroubra rotten seaweed collection of Aboriginal artifacts.
washed ashore.
hooks were ground-
down mollusc shells.
Water Carrier
Maroubra comes either
These bags were
from the merooberah
tribe, or means place usually made of
where shells are found. kangaroo skin. The
skin was removed
in one piece and
This carving of a leaping either turned inside
Bundeena
kangaroo is found in the out or tanned with the
Royal National Park. sap from a gum tree.

5,000 BC Dingo Captain James Cook

8,000 BC The reaches Australia,
oldest returning thought to have
boomerangs are been brought by AD 1606 Dutch ship, Duyfken, records first
in use in South seafarers European sighting of the continent. Lands on
Australia the eastern coast of Gulf of Carpentaria

10,000 BC AD 1
AD 1700 Macassans search for
Copperplate trepang or sea slugs off
10,000–8,500 BC print of a dingo Australia’s north coast
Tasmania is separated
from mainland
Australia by rising seas AD 1770 James Cook
lands at Botany Bay
 22 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

The Early Colony

The colony’s beginnings were rugged
and hungry, imbued with a spirit that
would give Sydney its unique character.
Convicts were put to work establishing
Hat made from
cabbage palm
roads and constructing buildings out of
mud, reeds, unseasoned wood and mortar
made from a crushed shell mixture. From these simple
beginnings, a town grew. Officers of the New South
Wales Corps became farmers, encouraged to work their GROWTH OF THE CITY
land alongside convict labour. Because the soldiers paid Today 1810
for work and goods in rum, they soon became known as
the Rum Corps, in 1808 overthrowing Governor Bligh Boat building at
(of Bounty fame) when he threatened their privileges. the Government
dockyard Pitts Row
By the early 1800s farms were producing crops, with
supplies arriving more regularly – as
were convicts and settlers with more
appropriate skills and trades.

First Fleet Ship (c.1787)

This painting by Francis Holman shows
three angles of the Borrowdale, one of
the fleet’s three commercial storeships.
Government
House

Scrimshaw
Engraving
bone or shell A VIEW OF SYDNEY COVE
was a skilful This idyllic image, drawn by Edward Dayes and
way to pass engraved by F Jukes in 1804, shows the Aboriginal
time during peoples living peacefully within the infant colony
long months alongside the flourishing maritime and agricultural
spent at sea. industries. In fact, they had been entirely ostracized
from the life and prosperity of the town by this time.

TIMELINE
1788 First white child born in the
colony – and the first man hanged 1796 The Revenge
1787 The First Fleet opens Sydney’s first,
leaves Portsmouth, but short-lived,
bound for Botany Bay Barrington, the convict and playhouse, simply
thespian star of The Revenge named The Theatre

1785 1790 1795

1789 The Aboriginal
Bennelong Bennelong is held 1790 First detachment of 1793 Arrival of the
pictured in captive and ordered the New South Wales first free settlers
European to act as an inter- Corps arrives in the colony.
finery mediary between the Fears of starvation are less- 1797 Merino sheep arrive
whites and blacks ened with the arrival of the from Cape of Good Hope
supply ship Lady Juliana
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S Y D N E Y 23

The Arrest of Bligh

WHERE TO SEE EARLY
This shameful, and
invented, scene shows COLONIAL SYDNEY
the hated Governor The Rocks was the hub of
William Bligh, in early Sydney. Wharves,
warehouses, hotels, rough
full regalia, hiding
houses and even rougher
under a servant’s characters gave it its colour.
bed to avoid arrest Dramatic cuts were made in
by the NSW Rum the rocky point to provide
Corps in 1808. building materials and filling
for the construction of
The buildings may Circular Quay, and allow for
look impressive, streets. The houses are gone,
Male and female
but most were except for Cadman’s Cottage
convicts housed
poorly built with separately (see p68), but the irregular,
inferior materials. labyrinthine lanes are still give
the flavour of convict history.

Waratah (1803)
John Lewin, naturalist Elizabeth Farm (pp138–9)
and engraver, drew at Parramatta is the oldest sur-
delicate and faithful viving building in Australia.
representations of the It was built by convicts using
local flora and fauna. lime mortar from the penal
colony of Norfolk Island.
Barracks housing
NSW Rum Corps

Kangaroo (1813) Experiment Farm Cottage,

an early dwelling (see p139),
Naturalists were amazed at
displays marked convict-made
Sydney’s vast array of strange bricks. Masons also marked
plant and animal species. The each brick, as they were paid
first pictures sent back to according to the number laid.
England caused a sensation.

1799 Explorers Bass and 1808 Rum Rebellion

Flinders complete their circum- 1803 The first issue of the brings social upheaval.
navigation of Van Diemen’s weekly Sydney Gazette, Estimated population
Land (now Tasmania), before Australia’s first newspaper, of New South Wales
returning to Port Jackson is published stands at 9,100

1800 1805 1810

1801 Ticket-of-leave 1804 Irish convict 1810

system introduced, uprising at Castle Hill New convict
enabling the convicts arrivals craft
to work for wages 1802 Aboriginal leader Pemulwy is such items as
and to choose their shot and killed following the killing Love love tokens
own master of four white men by Aboriginal men token
 24 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

The Georgian Era

Sydney’s early decades were times of
turbulence and growth. Lachlan Mac-
quarie governor from 1810 to 1821, was
one of the most significant figures. He
took over a town-cum-jail and left behind
Merino sheep a fully fledged city with a sense of civic
for export wool pride. Noted for his sympathetic attitude

to convicts and freed women and men, he commissioned

many fine buildings, including work by convict Francis GROWTH OF THE CITY
Greenway (see p114). When Macquarie left in 1822, Today 1825
Sydney boasted main roads, regular streets and an orga-
nized police system. By the 1830s, trade had expanded The domed saloon
and labour and land were plentiful. In 1840, transporta- is elliptical, and has a
tion of convicts was abolished. A decade of lively debate cantilevered staircase.
followed: on immigration, religion and education.
Bedroom

The breakfast
room was used for
informal dining.

View from the Summit

Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth
were the first Europeans to cross the
Blue Mountains in 1813. Augustus
Earle’s painting shows convicts work-
ing on a road into this fertile area.

The kitchen was

originally in a sepa-
rate block to avoid
the danger of fire.

The Macquaries ELIZABETH BAY HOUSE

Governor Macquarie and his This extravagant Regency villa was built from
wife Elizabeth arrived in the 1835–9 for Colonial Secretary Alexander Macleay
city with a brief to “improve (see p120). After only six years’ occupancy, lavish build-
the morals of the Colonists”. ing and household expenses forced him into bankruptcy.

TIMELINE
1814 Holey dollar eases coin shortage 1830 Sir Thomas
Mitchell discovers
Holey dollar and 1820 Macquarie Chair crafted megafauna fossils in
dump, made from of she-oak and wallaby skin New South Wales
Spanish coins
Macquarie Chair

1810 1815 1820 1825 1830

1817 The Bank of NSW 1831 First Australian novel,
1816 Convict architect Francis opens. Macquarie Quintus Servinton, is
Greenway designs his first recommends adoption printed and published
building, Macquarie Lighthouse of the name Australia
for the continent, as 1824 Hume and Hovell are the first
suggested by explorer Europeans to see the Snowy Mountains
Matthew Flinders
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S Y D N E Y 25

Lyrebird (1813)
As the colony con- WHERE TO SEE
tinued to expand, GEORGIAN SYDNEY
more exotic birds Governor Macquarie designat-
and animals were ed the street now bearing his
found. The male name (see pp112–15) as the
ceremonial centre of the city.
of this species has It has an elegant collection of
an impressive tail buildings: the Hyde Park
that spreads into Barracks, St James’ Church,
the shape of a lyre. the Sydney Mint, Parliament
House and Sydney Hospital.
Servants’
quarters Aboriginal Explorer Other fine examples are the
Bungaree took part in the first Victoria Barracks (p127),
circumnavigation of Vaucluse House (p136) and
Macquarie Lighthouse (p137).
the continent, sailing
with Matthew
Flinders.

Old Government House, the

oldest surviving public build-
ing in Australia (see p139),
was erected in 1799. Additions
ordered by Governor Macquarie
Drawing room
were completed in 1816.

The Classical
design was to be
complemented by
a colonnade, but
money ran out.

High Fashion, 1838

Stylish ladies would prom-
enade through Hyde Park
(see pp86–7) in the very
latest London fashions,
The dining room was furnished now available from the
in a florid style out of keeping recently opened David
with the Neo-Classical architecture.
Jones department store.

Naturalist and 1842 Sydney town

author, Charles becomes a city 1848 Parramatta’s
Darwin 1844 Edward Geoghegan’s Female Factory, a
1837 Victoria is Australian musical comedy, notorious women’s
crowned Queen The Currency Lass, first prison, closes down
of England performed

1835 1840 1845 1850

1836 Charles 1841 Female Immigrants’ 1850 Work begins
Darwin visits Home established in Sydney on NSW’s first
Sydney on by Caroline Chisholm. Gas railway line, from
HMS Beagle lights illuminate Sydney Sydney to Parramatta
1838 Myall Creek massacre 1840 Transportation of Caroline Chisholm,
of Aboriginal peoples convicts to NSW is abolished philanthropist
 26 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Victorian Sydney
In the 1850s, gold was discovered in
New South Wales and Sydney came
alive with gold seekers, big spenders
and a new wave of settlers. It was the
start of a peaceful period of solid growth.
Gold rush Education became compulsory, an art
memorabilia
gallery was opened and the Australian
Academy of Arts held its first exhibition. The city skyline
became more complex, with spires and “tall” buildings. GROWTH OF THE CITY
Terrace houses proliferated. Victorian decorum and social Today 1881
behaviour borrowed from the mother country flourished,
with much social visiting and sporting enthusiasm. It was The dome was
The structure
an age of pleasure gardens and regattas, but also a time 30 m (98 ft) in
was built of
of unruliness and political agitation. In the 1890s, as the hollow pine. diameter.
country moved towards Federation,
fervent nationalism and an Australian
identity began to take shape.

Mrs Macquaries Chair (1855)

This prime harbour viewing spot (see
p106), with the seat carved from rock for
the governor’s wife, was “the daily resort
of all the fashionable people in Sydney”.

Boer War
The 1st Australian
Horse division
was praised for
its bushcraft, THE GARDEN PALACE
horsemanship Built in the Botanic Gardens especially for the
and accurate occasion, in 1879–80, the Garden Palace hosted
shooting. the first international exhibition held in the
southern hemisphere. Twenty nations took part.
Sadly, the building and most of its contents
were destroyed by fire in 1882.

TIMELINE
Henry Parkes
1851 The discovery of 1872 Henry
gold near Bathurst, west 1868 The Duke of Edinburgh visits and Parkes
of the Blue Mountains, survives an assassination attempt. The Prince elected NSW
sparks a gold rush Alfred Hospital is later named in his honour Premier

1850 1860 1870

1867 Henry Lawson born

1857 Dunbar wrecked Henry Lawson, 1869 Trend in the colony

at The Gap with the notable poet towards the segregation 1870 The last
loss of 121 lives and and author of Aboriginal peoples on British troops
only one survivor of short reserves and settlements withdraw from
stories the colony
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S Y D N E Y 27

The Waverly WHERE TO SEE

This clipper brig,
VICTORIAN SYDNEY
with its extra sails
and tall masts, Sydney’s buildings reflect the
spirit of the age. The Queen
enabled the fast Victoria Building (see p82),
transport of wool Sydney Town Hall (p87) and
exports and fortune Martin Place (p84) mark
seekers hastening grand civic spaces. In stark
to newly discovered contrast, the Argyle Terraces
colonial gold fields. and Susannah Place (p67) in
The Rocks give some idea of
The “Strasburg” Clock the cramped living conditions
In 1887, Sydney clockmaker Richard endured by the working class.
Smith began work on this astronom-
ical model now in the Powerhouse
Museum (see pp100–101).

Some of the exhibits St Mary’s Cathedral (see

held in the Powerhouse p86), built in Gothic Revival
Museum (see pp100–101) style, is thought to be the largest
were rescued from this Christian church in the former
burning building. “Empire”, outside Britain.

The exhibition attracted

over one million people.

Arthur Streeton
Victorian terrace houses,
In 1891, Streeton and Tom decorated with iron lace, began
Roberts, both Australian to fill the streets of Paddington
Impressionist painters, set up (see pp122–7) and Glebe (p131)
an artists’ camp overlooking from the 1870s onwards.
Sydney Harbour in Mosman.

1890 First Tivoli Theatre

1880 The Bulletin is launched, electric trams programme
and becomes a literary icon. run between
Captain Moonlight, a notorious Bondi Junction 1896 Moving
bushranger, is hanged and Waverley pictures come to
the Tivoli Theatre

1880 1890
1879 Steam tramway Steam 1891 Labor Party enters
travels from tram the political arena
the city to Redfern
1888 Louisa 1900 Queen Victoria consents
1877 Caroline Chisholm, a Lawson’s journal to the formation of the
philanthropist who helped Dawn published Commonwealth of Australia.
immigrant women, dies Bubonic plague breaks out
28 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney Between the Wars

Federation took place on 1 January 1901
and New South Wales became a state of the
Australian nation. In Sydney, new wharves
were built, roads widened and slums cleared.
The 1920s were colourful and optimistic in
“the city of pleasure”. The skyline bristled
Vegemite with cranes as modern structures replaced
spread created their ornate predecessors. The country was
in 1923
hit hard by the Great Depression in 1931, GROWTH OF THE CITY
but economic salvation came in the form of rising wool Today 1945
prices and growth in manufacturing. The opening of the
Sydney Harbour Bridge in 1932 was a consolidation of The poster depicts
all the changes brought by Federation and urbanization. the youthful vigour
of the nation.

Surf
lifesaver
Home in the Suburbs
The Federation bungalow became a unique
architectural style (see p39). Verandas, gables
and chimneys featured amid much red brick.

“Making Do”
This chair, made in 1910,
used packing case timber,
cotton reels, fencing wire
and the
mouldings
of picture
frames.

SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE

After nine years of construction, the largest
Bronzed Lifesavers crowd ever seen in Sydney greeted the
No surf beach was com- bridge’s opening. Considered a wonder
plete without these icons, of engineering at the time, it linked the
forever looking to sea. harbour’s north and south shores.

TIMELINE
1901 Miles 1912 High-rise era begins in 1920 Prince Edward, the
Franklin’s My Sydney with the erection of Prince of Wales, visits
Brilliant Career the 14-storey Culwulla
is published Chambers in Macquarie 1918 Sydneysiders greet
Street. First surfboard arrives the Armistice riotously
Miles Franklin in Sydney from Hawaii

1900 1910 1920

1902 Women win the 1907 Trunk line 1919 The Archibald
right to vote in New between Melbourne Prize for portraiture
South Wales and Sydney opens is first awarded.
Influenza epidemic
1901 Proclamation of the Poster for hits Sydney
Commonwealth of Australia. Edmund telephone
Barton elected as first prime minister trunk line 1915 Anzacs land at Gallipoli
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S Y D N E Y 29

Luna Park
WHERE TO SEE EARLY
This harbourside amuse-
ment park opened in 1935 20TH-CENTURY SYDNEY
(see p132). A maniacally The years after Federation
grinning face loomed at yielded stylish and sensible
the entrance way. Millions buildings like Central
Railway Station, the
of Australians recall the Commonwealth Bank in
terrifying thrill of running Martin Place (see pp40–41)
the gauntlet through the and the State Library of New
gaping mouth as children. South Wales. The suburbs of
Haberfield and Strathfield
best exemplify the Fed-
eration style of gentrified
One million people residential housing.
crossed the bridge
on its opening day.

Donald Bradman The Anzac Memorial (1934)

The 1932 English team is in Hyde Park (see pp86–7).
used “dirty” tactics to The Art Deco memorial, with its
outsmart this brilliant reflecting pool, commemorates
cricketer, almost caus- all Australians killed in wars.
ing a diplomatic rift
with Great Britain.

The wireless became almost a

Australian Women’s Weekly
fixture in sitting rooms in the
This magazine, first published in 1930s. This 1935 AWA Radio-
1933, becomes a family institu- lette is held at the Powerhouse
tion full of homespun wisdom, Museum (see pp100–101).
recipes, stories and handy hints.

1924 Sydney swimmer 1938 Sydney celebrates

Andrew “Boy” Charlton 1937 Heyday her 150th anniversary
wins a gold medal at of painted
the Paris Olympics glass pub art
Painted glass depicting 1939 Australia declares
pub sign local heroes war on Germany

1930 1940
1928 Kingsford Smith 1935 Luna 1941 Australia 1942 Japanese
and Ulm make first Park opens declares war on midget sub-
flight across Pacific in Japan marines enter
the Southern Cross Sydney Harbour
1932 Sydney Harbour
Bridge opens 1945 Street celebrations mark
Kingsford Smith, Ulm the end of World War II
 30 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Postwar Sydney
The postwar baby boom was
accompanied by mass immigration
and the suburban sprawl. The
hippie movement gave youth an
extrovert voice that imbued the
1950s Holden sedan 1960s with an air of flamboyance.
Australian involvement in the Vietnam War led to polit-
ical unrest in the early 1970s, relieved for one seminal
moment by the 1973 opening of the Sydney Opera House GROWTH OF THE CITY
(see pp74–7). In the 1980s, vast sums were spent on sky- Today 1966
scrapers and glossy redevelopments like Darling Harbour,
and on bicentennial celebrations. The city’s potential was
queens pose in
recognized in 1993 with the announcement that Sydney Drag their Hollywood-style
would host the year 2000 Olympics. sequined finery or
lampoon public figures
of the day.

Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race

Australia’s most prestigious and treacherous
yacht race runs over 1,167 km (725 miles).
Each Boxing Day since 1945, spectators have
watched yachts jostle at the starting line.
Elaborate floats
and costumes
can take a year to
make, with prizes
given to the best.

Bicentenary
The re-enactment
of the First Fleet’s NEW MARDI GRAS FESTIVAL
journey ended in What began as a protest march involving 1,000
Sydney Harbour people in 1978 is now a multi-million dollar
on Australia Day, boost for Australian tourism. While the parade
1988. A chaotic lasts for one rude and riotous night only (see
flotilla greeted the p49), the surrounding international festival offers
“tall ships”. a month of art, sporting and community events.

TIMELINE
1965
1950 Petrol, 1958 Qantas Conscription 1973 Official 1976 Nude 1979 Sydney’s
butter and tea Airlines embarks re-introduced; opening of sunbathing Eastern
rationing ends on its first round- first regular the Sydney allowed on Suburbs
the-world flights army battalion Opera House two Sydney Railway opens
Johnny sent to Vietnam beaches
O’Keefe
1950 1960 1970 1980
1954 Elizabeth 1956 TV Patrick 1973 Patrick 1978 Brett
II is the first launched in 1959 1964 Rocker White White wins Whiteley wins
reigning Sydney. By the Population Johnny O’Keefe, the Nobel Archibald Prize,
monarch to 1960s, the most of Australia “The Wild One”, Prize for Wynne Prize
visit Australia popular show reaches continues to top Literature and Sulman
is The Mickey 10 million the music charts Prize for three
Mouse Club works of art
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S Y D N E Y 31

Green Bans
MR ETERNITY
In the 1970s, the
militant building Arthur Stace (1885–1967),
a reformed alcoholic, was
union placed work inspired by an evangelist who
bans on develop- said that he wanted to “shout
ments in the inner eternity through the streets of
city considered Sydney”. “I felt a powerful call
destructive to the from the Lord to write ‘Eter-
environment or nity’.” At least 50 times a day,
cultural heritage. for over 30 years, he chalked
this word in perfect copper-
The parade of ornate plate on the footpaths and
floats and showy dance walls of the city. A plaque in
troupes stretches for Sydney Square pays tribute
over 2 km (1¼ miles). to Mr Eternity’s endeavours.

Ned Kelly
This 1946 portrait of
legendary hero Ned Kelly
is by Sir Sidney Nolan
(1917–92), an important Arthur Stace and “Eternity”, 1963
postwar painter.
Floats are marshalled in
Elizabeth Street, before
travelling along Oxford
and Flinders Streets.

Oz Magazine, 1963–73 Aboriginal Land Rights

This satirical magazine, which In 1975, the first handover of
had a major international land was made to Vincent
influence, was the mouthpiece Lingiari, representative of the
of an irreverent generation. It Gurindji people, by Prime
was declared obscene in 1964. Minister Gough Whitlam.

1990 Population 2000 Sydney plays host to

of Australia 1997 INXS singer Michael the first Olympic Games of
reaches 17 Hutchence commits suicide the new millennium 2008 Sydney hosts
million in a Sydney hotel World Youth Day

1990 2000 2010

2003 Memorial unveiled to
1992 Sydney Harbour the 202 people killed in
Tunnel opens Bali bombing (2002)
1989 Earthquake strikes 2006 Sydney stages first Live
Newcastle causing Earth concert replicated
extensive damage simultaneously worldwide
 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y 33

SYDNEY AT A GLANCE
T here are more than 100 places of
interest described in the Area
by Area section of this book. A
broad range of sights is covered: from
the colonial simplicity of Hyde Park
make the most of your stay, the
following 14 pages are a time-saving
guide to the best Sydney has to offer.
Museums and galleries, architecture
and parks and reserves all have
Barracks (see p114) to the ornate sections of their own. There is also a
Victorian terraces of Paddington; from guide to the diverse cultures that have
the tranquillity of Centennial Park (see helped to shape the city into what it
p127) to the bustle of the cafés and is today. Below is a selection of
shops of Oxford Street. To help you attractions that no visitor should miss.
SYDNEY’S TOP TEN ATTRACTIONS

The Rocks
See pp62–77

Sydney Opera Royal Botanic

House Gardens
See pp74–7 See pp104–5

Art Gallery of New South Wales

See pp108–11

Oxford Street Darling Harbour

Sydney Tower and Paddington and Chinatown Taronga Zoo
See p83 See pp116–27 See pp90–101 See pp134–5

Harbour ferries Sydney’s beaches

See pp234–5 See pp54–5

Sydney Harbour Bridge, opened in 1932 (see pp70–71)

34 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney’s Best: Museums and Galleries

Sydney is well endowed with museums and
galleries, and, following the current appreciation of
social history, much emphasis is placed on the life-
styles of past and present Sydneysiders. Small
museums are also a feature of the Sydney scene,
with a number of historic houses recalling the
colonial days. These are covered in greater depth on
pages 36–7. Most of the major collections are housed
in architecturally significant
Bima figure, buildings – the Classical Museum of Sydney
Powerhouse façade of the Art Gallery The Edge of the Trees
Museum
of NSW makes it a city is an interactive instal-
landmark, while the Museum of Con- lation by the entrance.
temporary Art has given new life to a THE ROCKS AND
1950s Art Deco-style building at Circular Quay. CIRCULAR QUAY
Justice and Police Museum
This museum illustrates
Sydney’s early legal and
criminal history. It includes
some macabre relics of
notorious crimes.

CITY CENTRE

Museum of Contemporary Art

This waterfront space is Australia’s
only museum dedicated to exhibiting DARLING
HARBOUR
national and international
contemporary art.
Australian National
Maritime Museum
The museum is the home
port for HMS Endeavour,
a replica of the vessel that
charted Australia’s east
coast in 1770, with Cap-
tain Cook in command.

Powerhouse Museum
This museum, set in a
former power station, uses
both traditional and
interactive displays to
0 metres 500
explore Australian
innovations in science
0 yards 500 and technology.
 S Y D N E Y A T A G L A N C E 35

Art Gallery of New South Wales

The Australian collection includes
colonial watercolours which, to avoid
deterioration, are only shown for a
few weeks each year. Charles Meere’s
Australian Beach Pattern (1940) is
among more recent works.

Elizabeth Bay House

The dining room is elegantly
furnished to the 1840s period,
when the Colonial Secretary
Alexander Macleay briefly
lived in the house that ultim-
ately caused his bankruptcy.
BOTANIC
GARDENS AND
THE DOMAIN

KINGS CROSS
AND Hyde Park Barracks Museum
DARLINGHURST Originally built by convicts for
their own incarceration, these
barracks were later home
to poor female immigrants.
Exhibits recall the daily life
of these occupants.

Sydney Jewish Museum

Australian Museum The history of the city’s Jewish
PADDINGTON
Discover the Earth’s age, find community is documented here.
out about meteorites, volcanic Included is a reconstruction of
activity and dinosaurs at George Street in 1848, a major
Australia’s largest natural location for Jewish businesses.
history museum.
36 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Exploring Sydney’s Museums and Galleries

Sydney boasts a rich variety of museums
and galleries that reflects the cultural,
artistic and historical heritage of this, the
country’s oldest city – and of Australia as
a whole. The growth of such institutions
Nautilus in recent years parallels a corresponding
scrimshaw, National
Maritime Museum
growth in public interest in all things
cultural, a phenomenon that seems at
odds with Sydney’s predominantly hedonistic image. In Detail from Window of Dreams at
fact, Sydney has a long-standing cultural tradition, one the National Maritime Museum
that has not always been widely recognized. It may even
surprise some people that museums and galleries attract
TECHNOLOGY AND
more people than do high-profile football matches. NATURAL HISTORY

well as a gallery devoted to The undisputed leader in this

Asian art and a collection area is the Powerhouse, with
of contemporary and photo- traditional and interactive
graphic works. Thematic displays covering fields as
temporary exhibitions are diverse as space travel, silent
also a regular feature here. films and solar energy. The
The far newer Museum Australian National Maritime
of Contemporary Art (MCA) Museum has the world’s
is best known for its fastest boat, Spirit of Australia,
impressive blockbuster as part of its indoor/outdoor
exhibitions. Many of these display. Also part of their fleet
take advantage of its prime are the destroyer HMAS
harbour site to create a fine Vampire, the Onslow (a sub-
sense of spectacle. It also has marine), and the James Craig
a considerable permanent (1874), a three-masted barque.
collection, and hosts literary The Australian Museum, in
Collage on one of the internal readings and talks. contrast, emphasizes natural
doors of the Brett Whiteley Studio The Brett Whiteley Studio, history with its displays of the
housed in the studio of the late exotic and extinct: from birds,
artist, commemorates the life insects and rock samples to
VISUAL ARTS and works of perhaps the giant Australian megafauna.
most celebrated and contro-
The Art Gallery of NSW has versial Sydney painter of the
one of the finest existing late 20th century. ABORIGINAL CULTURE
collections of modern The substantial collection
Australian and Aboriginal art. of Australian painting and With more than 200 works,
It also boasts an outstanding sculpture held by the SH Ervin both traditional and contem-
collection of late 19th- and Gallery is supplemented by porary, on display, the Art
early 20th-century English frequent thematic and other Gallery of NSW’ s Yiribana
and Australian works as specialized exhibitions. Gallery has the best and most

Jabarrgwa Wurrabadalumba’s
Dugong Hunt (1948), Art Gallery of NSW
 S Y D N E Y A T A G L A N C E 37

comprehensive collection of
Aboriginal art in the country.
The Australian Museum has
displays ranging from rocks
and minerals, birds and insects
to the permanent indigenous
exhibition. In its community
access space, it also presents
performances that celebrate
Aboriginal culture.
The First Australians exhibit
at the Australian National
Maritime Museum includes
audio and video material, with
traditional tools made by
Aboriginal communities.
The Museum of Sydney The Georgian-style front bedroom in the cottage at Elizabeth Farm
uses images, artifacts and oral
histories to evoke the life of unearthed relics from that
the Eora, the indigenous building, some of which are SPECIALIST MUSEUMS
people of the Sydney region, visible under windows at the
up to the years of first contact entrance to the museum. Author May Gibbs’ home on
with the European colonists. Susannah Place Museum the harbour, Nutcote, has
looks at working-class life in been refurbished in the style
the 19th century. Cadman’s of the 1930s. The Justice and
COLONIAL HISTORY Cottage, also in The Rocks, is Police Museum examines a far
a simple stone dwelling dating less comfortable history,
The superb interior of from 1816 and the city’s oldest investigating Australian crime
Elizabeth Bay House has been extant building. Adjacent is the and punishment, while the
furnished to show early Sailors’ Home, built in 1864 Westpac Museum traces local
colonial life at its most elegant, as lodgings for visiting sailors. financial transactions from first
but while at first the It now houses coins through to credit cards.
house may appear to permanent exhibitions Experiences of Jewish migrants
celebrate a success detailing the area’s to Australia and the story of the
story, the enormous architectural, archaeo- Holocaust are examined at
cost of its construction logical and social the Sydney Jewish Museum.
brought bankruptcy to heritage. The important
its owner. Also built in role of gold in the FINDING THE
grand style, Vaucluse history of Australia and
House celebrates the how it determined MUSEUMS AND
life and times of WC patterns of migration GALLERIES
Wentworth, explorer and expansion Art Gallery of NSW pp108–11
and politician. are shown at the Australian Museum pp88–9
Experiment Farm Water dip
Powerhouse Museum. Australian National Maritime
Cottage, Hambledon at Experiment Hyde Park Barracks Museum pp94–5
Cottage and Farm Cottage Museum evokes the Brett Whiteley Studio p130
Elizabeth Farm in and often brutal lives and Cadman’s Cottage p68
around Parramatta are times of the convicts who were Elizabeth Bay House p120
testament to the crucial role housed there in the early 19th Elizabeth Farm pp138–9
of agriculture in the survival century, while not neglecting Experiment Farm Cottage p139
of a colony that was brought its other place in history as an Hambledon Cottage p139
to the brink of starvation. The immigration depot. Hyde Park Barracks Museum
former has been restored as a pp114–15
gentleman’s cottage of the Justice and Police Museum p72
mid-19th century, while the Museum of Contemporary Art
latter two have been p73
furnished to the period of Museum of Sydney p85
1820–50. Parramatta’s Old Nutcote pp132–3
Government House was once Old Government House p139
the vice-regal “inland” Powerhouse Museum pp100–
residence when Parramatta had 101
more people than Sydney. The S.H. Ervin Gallery, National Trust
colonial furniture on display Centre p73
predates 1855. Susannah Place Museum p67
The Museum of Sydney is Sydney Jewish Museum p121
built on the site of the first Vaucluse House p136
Government House, close to Side view of the veranda at Westpac Museum p68
Sydney Cove. On display are Elizabeth Farm, near Parramatta
38 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney’s Best: Architecture

For such a young city, Sydney possesses a remarkable
diversity of architectural styles. They range from the
simplicity of Francis Greenway’s Georgian buildings (see
p114) to Jørn Utzon’s Expressionist Sydney Opera House
(see pp74–7). Practical Colonial structures gave way to
elaborate Victorian edifices such as Sydney Town Hall
and the same passion for detail is seen on a smaller scale
in Paddington’s terraces. Later, Federation warehouses
and bungalows brought in a particularly Australian style.
Contemporary
Colonial Convict Governor Phillip Tower is
The first structures were a modern commercial
very simple yet formal building incorporating a
English-style cottages historical site (see p85).
with shingled roofs and
no verandas. Cadman’s
Cottage is a fine repre-
sentative of this style.
THE ROCKS
AND
GIRCULAR
Colonial Georgian QUAY
Francis Greenway’s courthouse
design was ordered to be adapted
to suit the purposes of a church.
St James Church is the result. CITY
CENTRE
American
Revivalism
Shopping arcades
connecting streets,
such as the Queen
Victoria Building,
were 1890s vogue.

Victorian
The Town Hall interior
includes Australia’s first
pressed metal ceiling, DARING
installed for fear that HARBOUR
the organ would vib-
rate a plaster one loose.

Contemporary Expressionism
Innovations in sports stadiums and
museum architecture, such as the
National Maritime Museum, empha-
size roof design and the silhouette.
Interwar Architecture
Bruce Dellit’s Anzac Memorial in
0 metres 500 Hyde Park, with sculptures by
0 yards 500
Raynor Hoff, encapsulates the
spirit, form and detail of Art Deco.
 S Y D N E Y A T A G L A N C E 39

Modern Expressionism
One of the world’s greatest examples of
20th-century architecture, Jørn Utzon’s
Sydney Opera House beat 234 entries in
a design competition. Work commenced
in 1959 and, despite the architect’s resig-
nation in 1966, it was opened in 1973.

Australian Regency
During the 1830s, the best
Early Colonial designed villas were the work
The first buildings of char- of John Verge. Elizabeth Bay
acter and quality, such House was his masterpiece.
BOTANIC as Hyde Park Barracks,
GARDENS AND were for the government.
THE DOMAIN

KINGS GROSS AND

DARLINGHURST Colonial Military
Victoria Barracks, designed by engineers,
is an impressive example of a well-
preserved Georgian military compound.

PADDINGTON

Colonial Grecian
Greek Revival was the Victorian Iron Lace
major style for public Festooned with a filigree
buildings, such as the of cast-iron lace in a wide
Darlinghurst Court range of prefabricated
House, designed by the patterns, Paddington
Colonial Architect in the verandas demonstrate
1820–50 period. 1880s workmanship.
 40 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Exploring Sydney’s Architecture

While European settlement in
Sydney has a relatively short history,
architectural styles have rapidly
evolved from provincial British buildings
and the simplicity of convict structures. From
Federation era the mid-19th century until the present day,
stained glass architectural innovations have borrowed
from a range of international trends to create vernac-
ular styles more suited to local materials and conditions.
The signs of affluence and austerity, from gold rush to
depression, are also manifested in bricks and mortar.

AUSTRALIAN REGENCY

Just as the Colonial style was

reaching its zenith, the city’s Entrance detail from the Victorian
increasingly moneyed society St Patrick’s Seminary in Manly
abandoned it as undignified
and unfashionable. London’s
residential architecture, exem- VICTORIAN
Façade of the Colonial Susannah plified by John Soane under
Place, with corner shop window the Prince Regent’s patronage, This prosperous era featured
was in favour from the 1830s confident business people
to the 1850s. Fine examples of and merchants who designed
COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE this shift towards Regency are their own premises. Tracts of
John Verge’s stylish town the city west of York Street and
Little remains of the Colonial houses at 39–41 Lower Fort south of Bathurst Street are
buildings from 1790–1830. Street (1834–6), The Rocks, testimony to these self-assured
The few structures still stand- and the adjoining Bligh House projects. The cast-iron and
ing have a simple robustness built for a wealthy merchant glass Strand Arcade (1891) by
and unassuming dignity. They in 1833 in High Colonial style JB Spencer originally included
rely more on form, proportion complete with Greek Classical a gas and electricity system,
and mass than on detail. Doric veranda columns. and hydraulic lifts.
The Rocks area has one of Regency-style homes often Government architect James
the best collections of early had Grecian, French and Italian Barnet’s best work includes the
Colonial buildings: Cadman’s details. Elizabeth Bay House “Venetian Renaissance” style
Cottage (1816), the Argyle (1835–8), internally the finest General Post Office, Martin
Stores (1826) and Susannah of all John Verge’s works, is Place (1864–87), and the ex-
Place Museum (1844). The particularly noted for its can- travagant Lands Department
Georgian Hyde Park Barracks tilevered staircase rising to the Building (1877–90) with its
(1819) and St James Church arcaded gallery. The cast-iron four iron staircases and, origin-
(1820), by Francis Greenway Ionic-columned Tusculum ally, patent lifts operated by
(see p114), as well as the Greek Villa (1831) by the same archi- water power. The Great Syna-
Revival Darlinghurst Court tect at Potts Point (see p118) is gogue (1878), St Mary’s
House (1835) and Victoria unusual in that it is encircled Cathedral (1882), St Patrick’s
Barracks(1841–8) are excel- by a double-storeyed veranda, Seminary (1885), Sydney
lent examples of this period. now partially enclosed. Town Hall and Paddington
Street are also of this period.

AMERICAN REVIVALISM

After federation in 1901,

architects looked to styles
such as Edwardian, American
Romanesque and Beaux Arts
from overseas for commercial
buildings. The former National
Mutual Building (1892) by
Edward Raht set the change of
direction, followed by ware-
house buildings in Sussex and
Kent Streets. The Romanesque
The Australian Regency-style Bligh House in Dawes Point Queen Victoria Building
 S Y D N E Y A T A G L A N C E 41

(1893–98) was a grand coun-

cil project by George McRae. FEDERATION ARCHITECTURE
The Beaux Arts Common- This distinctly urban style of architecture was developed to
wealth Savings Bank (1928) meet the demands of the prosperous and newly emerging
features an elaborate chamber middle classes at the time of Federation in 1901. Particular
in Neo-Classical style. features are the high-pitched roofs, which form a picturesque
composition or architectural tableau, incorporating
intricate gables, wide verandas and chimneys. The
INTERWAR ARCHITECTURE decorative timber fretwork of the
verandas and archways and the
Architecture between World leadlight windows reveal
Wars I and II produced the influence of the Art
skyscrapers such as the City Nouveau period, as do
Mutual Life Assurance Build- the vibrant red roof
ing (1936), by Emil Sodersten. tiles. The patriotic
This building exhibits German references are seen
Expressionist influences such throughout, and
as pleated or zigzag windows. Australian flora and
Two important structures fauna are recurring
are the ANZAC Memorial decorative motifs. “Verona” in The Appian Way, Burwood
(1929–34) in Hyde Park and
Delfin House (1938–40), by
the Art Deco architect Bruce tower comprising a reinforced
Dellit. The latter, a skyscraper, concrete tube structure with WHERE TO FIND THE
features a vaulted ceiling and column-free floors. BUILDINGS
a granite arch decorated with Jørn Utzon’s Sydney Opera ABN-AMRO Tower, Cnr Phillip
& Bent St, Map 1 C4.
an allegory of modern life. House (1959–73) is widely
Anzac Memorial p86
regarded as one of the archi-
Argyle Stores p68
tectural wonders of the world.
Aussie Stadium Map 5 C4.
MODERN ARCHITECTURE
Australia Square, Cnr George &
Bond Sts. Map 1 B3.
CONTEMPORARY
Bligh House, 43 Lower Fort St,
ARCHITECTURE
Dawes Point. Map 1 B2.
Cadman’s Cottage p68
The elliptical Aussie Stadium,
City Mutual Life Assurance
or Sydney Football Stadium,
Building, Cnr Hunter &
(1985–8) and the Australian
Bligh Sts. Map 1 B4.
National Maritime Museum
Commonwealth Savings Bank
(1986–9), both by Philip Cox,
of Australia, Martin Place p84
make use of advanced steel
Darlinghurst Court House p121
engineering systems. Detailed
Delfin House, 16–18 O’Connell St.
masonry has made a return to
Map 1 B4.
commercial buildings such as
Elizabeth Bay House p120
the highly regarded Governor
General Post Office, Martin Place
Phillip Tower (1989–94). The
p84
dictates of office design do
Governor Phillip Tower p85
not detract from the historical
Great Synagogue p86
Museum of Sydney, ingenious-
Hyde Park Barracks pp114–15
ly sited on the lower floors.
Lands Department Building p84
The ABN-AMRO Tower at
39–41 Lower Fort Street, Dawes
Aurora Place (2000) was
Point. Map 1 A2.
Modern MLC Centre, Martin Place designed by Renzo Piano and
MLC Centre, Martin Place p84
was awarded the Sulman
Autralian National Maritime
From the mid-1950s, modern Prize for Architecture in 2004.
Museum pp94–5
architecture was introduced to
National Mutual Building,
the city through glass-clad
350 George St. Map 1 B4.
curtain-walled office blocks,
Paddington Street p126
proportioned like matchboxes
Queen Victoria Building p82
on their ends. The contrasting
St James Church p115
expressed frame approach of
St Mary’s Cathedral p86
Australia Square (1961–7)
St Patrick’s Seminary p147
gives structural stability to one
Strand Arcade p84
of the world’s tallest light-
Susannah Place Museum p67
weight concrete office towers.
Sydney Opera House pp74–7
This city block was formed by
Sydney Town Hall p87
amalgamating 30 properties.
Tusculum Villa p118
Harry Seidler’s MLC Centre Masonry detail from the contem-
Victoria Barracks p127
(1975–8) is a 65-storey office porary Governor Phillip Tower
42 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney’s Many Cultures

Sydney has one of the world’s most cosmopolitan
societies, reflected in the extraordinary variety of
restaurants, religions, community centres and
cultural activities to be found throughout the city
and its environs. Over 235 birthplaces outside
Australia were named in the last census. Indeed,
the Sydney telephone directory lists interpreting
services for 22 languages, including Greek, Italian,
Spanish, Chinese, Vietnamese, Turkish, Korean
and Arabic, and many of these groups have their Thai Community
own newspapers. While immigrants have settled Thai culinary traditions have
all over the city, there are still pockets of Sydney caused a revolution in Sydney
that retain a distinctive ethnic flavour. eating houses. The Loy Krathong
Festival in Parramatta celebrates
the transplanted Thai culture.

Thailand

Auburn Mosque
This lavish mosque rises above the
thriving Turkish businesses nearby.
Turkey
Halal meat markets and sweet
shops are proof of their influence.

Cambodian Cambodia

Cabramatta is the hub

of the Cambodian com-
munity. Songkran, the
three-day new year Vietnam Lebanon
celebration is held at Filipinos Philippines
Bonnyrigg. Over 60 per cent of
this rapidly expand-
ing migrant group
arrive as the brides
Vietnamese of Australian men.
This sculpture
of a cow stands
in Cabramatta’s
Freedom Plaza,
an area offering
all the sights, smells
and street life of
Southeast Asia.
Lakemba
A living monument to
Islam, the fastest growing
0 kilometres 4
religion in Australia, this
centre is a meeting place
0 miles 2 for local Lebanese people.
 S Y D N E Y A T A G L A N C E 43

Irish Parade
Sydney’s first settlers,
many of them Irish,
made their home in
The Rocks. With its
proliferation of pubs,
it is the focal point for
jubilant St Patrick’s
Day celebrations on
17 March each year.

Little Italy
Long home to the Italian com-
munity, Leichhardt evokes the
flavour of Europe with its bars, Jewish Delicatessen
cafés, restaurants and a The sizeable Jewish
sprawling annual street fair. community in the
city’s eastern suburbs,
about half of whom
were born in Aust-
ralia, is well served by
kosher supermarkets
and butchers’ shops.

Ireland

China Israel
Italy

Indigenous
Greece
Australia

Aboriginal Peoples
Redfern Park hosts a
Survival concert every 26
January, the culmination
of a week of cultural
exchange.

Chinese
New Year
Each year,
revellers pack
St Nicholas Church Dixon Street, at
Marrickville’s Greek the heart of
Orthodox church is the Chinatown, to
home of worship for the celebrate with
community, mostly based fireworks and
in the southern suburbs. Chinese dragons.
44 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney’s Best: Parks and Reserves

Sydney is almost completely surrounded
by national parks and intact bushland.
There are also a number of national parks
and reserves within Greater Sydney itself.
Here, the visitor can gain some idea of how
the landscape looked before the arrival of
European settlers. The city parks, too, are
filled with plant and animal life. The more
formal plantings of both native and exotic
species are countered by the indigenous
Flannel birds and animals that have adapted and
flower
made the urban environment their home.
One of the highlights of a trip to Sydney is the Garigal National Park
huge variety of birds to be seen, from large Rainforest and moist gullies
birds of prey such as sea eagles and provide shelter for superb
kites, to the shyer species such lyrebirds and sugar gliders.
as wrens and tiny finches.

North Arm Walk

In spring, grevilleas
and flannel flowers
bloom profusely on
this foreshore walk.

Lane Cove National Park

The open eucalypt forest is
dotted with grass trees, as
well as fine stands of red
and blue gums. The rosella,
a type of parrot, is common.

Hyde Park
Situated on the edge of the
city centre, the park provides
a peaceful respite from the hec-
tic streets. The native iris is just
Bicentennial Park
one of the plants found in
Situated at Homebush Bay on the
the lush gardens. The
Parramatta River, the park features
sacred ibis, a water
a mangrove habitat. It attracts many
bird, is often seen.
water birds, including pelicans.
 S Y D N E Y A T A G L A N C E 45

Middle Head and

Obelisk Bay
Gun emplacements,
tunnels and bunkers
built in the 1870s to
protect Sydney from
invasion by sea dot
the area. The superb
fairy wren lives here
and water dragons
can at times be seen North Head
basking on rocks. Coastal heathland, with banksias, tea
trees and casuarinas, dominates the
cliff tops. On the leeward side, moist
forest surrounds tiny harbour beaches.
Grotto Point
Bottlebrushes, grevilleas
and flannel flowers line Bradleys Head
paths winding through The headland is
the bush to the lighthouse. a nesting place
for the ringtail
possum. Noisy
flocks of rainbow
lorikeets are also
often in residence.

South Head
Unique plant species
such as the sundew
cover this heathland.

Nielsen Park
The kookaburra
is easily identi- The Domain
fied by its call, Palms and More-
which sounds ton Bay figs are
like laughter. a feature of this
former common.
The Australian
magpie, with its
black and white
plumage, is a
frequent visitor.

Moore Park Centennial Park

Huge Moreton Bay Open expanses and
figs provide an groves of paperbark
urban habitat for and eucalypt trees
the flying fox. bring sulphur-crested
cockatoos en masse.
The brushtail possum
is a shy creature that
0 kilometres 4
comes out at night.
0 miles 2
46 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Exploring the Parks and Reserves

Despite 200 years of European settlement, Sydney’s
parks and reserves contain a surprising variety of native
wildlife. Approximately 2,000 species of native plants,
1,000 cultivated and weed species and 300 bird species
have managed to adapt favourably to the changes.
Several quite distinct vegetation types are protected
in the bushland around Sydney, and these in turn
provide shelter for a wide range of birds and animals.
Even the more formal parks such as Hyde Park and the
Royal Botanic Gardens are home to many indigenous
species, allowing the visitor a glimpse of the city’s
diverse wildlife.
Colourful and noisy rainbow
Two other distinctive plants lorikeets at Manly’s Collins Beach
COASTAL HINTERLAND are casuarinas (Allocasuarina
species) and banksias (Banksia you poke under rocks and
One reason Sydney has so species), both of which attract logs. A common plant in this
many heathland parks, such smaller birds such as honey- habitat is the cabbage tree
as those found at South Head eaters and blue wrens. palm (Livistona australis). Its
and North Head, is that the heart was used as a vegetable
soil along the city’s coastline by the early European settlers.
is deficient in almost every RAINFOREST AND The soft tree fern (Dicksonia
known nutrient. What these MOIST FOREST antartctica) decorates the gul-
areas lack in fertility, they make lies and creeks of moist forest.
up for in species diversity. Rainforest remnants do exist You may see a ringtail possum
Heathland contains literally in a few parts of Sydney, (Pseudocheirus peregrinus)
hundreds of species especially in the Royal National nest at the top of one of these
of plants, including Park to the south of the city ferns at Bradleys Head. The
some unique flora (see pp164–5). Small pockets nest looks rather like a hairy
that have adapted can also be found in football and is found in hollow
to the poor soil. The Garigal National Park, trees or ferns and shrubs.
most surprising ones Ku-ring-gai Chase (see Rainbow lorikeets (Tricho-
are the carnivorous pp154–5) and some glossus haematodus) also
plants, which rely gullies running down inhabit Bradleys Head, as well
on passing insects for to Middle Harbour. The as Clifton Gardens and Collins
their food. The tiny sundew superb lyrebird (Menura Beach. Early in the morning,
(Drosera spatulata), so novaehollandiae) is a they shoot through the forest
called because of its Red bottlebrush feature of these forest canopy like iridescent bullets.
sparkling foliage, is (Callistemon sp.) areas. The sugar glider
the commonest of the (Petaurus breviceps),
carnivorous species. This low- a small species of possum, can OPEN EUCALYPT FOREST
growing plant snares insects sometimes be heard calling to
on its sticky, reddish leaves, its mate during the night. Some of Sydney’s finest
which lie flat on the ground. The deadliest spider in the smooth-barked apple gums
You will often stumble across world, the Sydney funnel-web (Angophora costata) are in
them where walking tracks (Atrax robustus, see p89), also the Lane Cove National Park.
pass through swampy ground, lives here, but you are These ancient trees, with their
waiting patiently for a victim. unlikely to see one unless gnarled pinkish trunks, lend
an almost “lost world” feeling.
Tall and straight blue gums
(Eucalyptus saligna) stand in
the lower reaches of the park,
where the soil is better, while
the smaller grey-white scrib-
bly gum (Eucalyptus rossii),
with its distinctive gum veins,
lives on higher slopes. If you
examine the markings on a
scribbly gum closely, you will
see they start out thin, gradu-
ally become thicker, then take
a U-turn and stop. This is the
track made by an ogmograptis
caterpillar the previous year.
Coastal heathland lining the cliff tops at Manly’s North Head The grubs that made the track
 S Y D N E Y A T A G L A N C E 47

become small, brownish-grey is no fresh water and, unlike

moths and are commonly seen soil, the mud has no oxygen
in eucalypt or gum forests. whatsoever below the very
Grass trees (Xanthorrhoea surface level. Mangroves have
species), also common in open developed some fascinating
eucalypt forest, are an ancient ways around these problems.
plant species with a tall spike First, excess salt is excreted
that bears white flowers in from their leaves. Secondly,
spring. Lyrebirds, echidnas, they get oxygen to the roots
currawongs and black snakes by pushing special peg-like
are predominant wildlife. The roots, called pneumatophores,
snakes, although beautiful, into the air. At low tide, these
should be treated with caution. can be clearly seen around the
base of most mangroves. They
allow air to diffuse down into
the roots so that they can sur-
vive the stifling conditions
under the mud. The Sydney
rock oyster (Saccostrea com-
mercialis), a popular local
delicacy, is found in mangrove The nocturnal grey-headed flying
areas, particularly around the fox, at rest during the daytime
Hawkesbury and Botany Bay.
a temporary colony of these
mammals in the Botanic Gar-
CITY PARKS dens, where they hang upside
down from trees in the park.
An amazing number of birds Most of Sydney’s flying foxes
and animals make the city come from a large colony in
parks their home. Silver gulls Gordon, in the city’s north.
A smooth-barked apple gum in (Larus novaehollandiae) and Moore Park and The Domain
Lane Cove National Park sulphur-crested cockatoos are good places to spot flying
(Cacatua galerita) are frequent foxes and they also have won-
daytime visitors to Hyde Park, derful specimens of Moreton
WETLANDS Centennial Park, The Domain Bay and other fig species.
and the Botanic Gardens. While paperbarks (Melaleuca
More than 60 per cent of New After dark, brush-tailed pos- species) are a feature of Cen-
South Wales’ coastal wetlands sums (Trichosurus vulpecula) tennial Park, a range of palms
have been lost. This makes go in search of food and may can be seen in the Botanic
the remaining areas of be seen scavenging in rubbish Gardens. The exquisite superb
wetland especially important. bins. Also a night creature, the fairy-wren (Malurus cyaneus)
Most of Sydney’s wetlands are fruit-eating grey-headed flying can also be seen here, flitting
mangrove swamps, with some fox (Pteropus poliocephalus) between shrubs, while over-
of the best-preserved examples can be seen swooping through head honeyeaters dart after
at Bicentennial Park and the the trees. There is sometimes each other in the tree canopy.
North Arm Walking Track.
Mangrove swamps are one STRANGLER FIGS
of the most hostile places for
a plant or animal to live. There The majestic figs in the city parks hide a dark secret. While
most of the Moreton Bay figs (Ficus macrophylla) you see
have been grown by gardeners long past, in the wild these
trees have a different approach. They start
as a tiny seedling, sprouted
from a seed dropped by
a bird in the fork of a
tree. Over decades, the
pencil-thin roots grow
downwards. Once they
reach the ground, new
roots are sent down,
forming a lacy network
around the trunk of the host
tree. They eventually become
an iron-hard cage around the host
tree’s trunk so that it dies and
rots away, leaving the fig The Moreton Bay fig, with its
A grey mangrove swamp near the with a hollow trunk. massive spreading canopy
Lane Cove National Park
48 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

SYDNEY THROUGH THE YEAR

S ydney’s temperate climate
allows for the enjoyment of
outdoor activities through-
out the year. Seasons in Sydney
are the opposite of those in the
into one another with little to
mark their changeover. Balmy
nights, the sweet, pervasive
scent of jasmine blossom and the
colourful blooming of shrubs and
northern hemisphere. September flowers are typical of spring. Summer
ushers in the three months of caters for sun- and surf-lovers as
spring; summer stretches from well as being Sydney’s festival
December to February; March, season. Autumn, with its warm
April and May are the autumn days and cooler nights, is often
months; while the shorter days Reveller at the perfect for bushwalks and picnics.
Mardi Gras
and falling temperatures of June And the crisp days of winter are
announce the onset of winter. In reality, ideal for going on historic walks and
however, Sydney seasons often merge exploring art galleries and museums.

SPRING

With the warmer weather, the

profusion of spring flowers
brings the city’s parks and
gardens excitingly to life.
Food, art and music festivals
abound. Footballers finish their
seasons with action-packed
grand finals, professional and
backyard cricketers warm up
for their summer competitions
and the horse-racing fraternity
gets ready to place its bets.

SEPTEMBER Spring display of tulip beds at the Leura Garden Festival

David Jones Spring Flower gardens, talks, specialist shows magnificent private gardens
Show (first two weeks), and 100,000 tulips in bloom. featuring flower displays of
Elizabeth Street department Spring Racing Carnival a particularly high standard
store. Breathtaking floral art- (Sep–Oct). The horse-racing may be viewed.
work fills the ground floor. action is shared between Australian International
Festival of the Winds (dates Rosehill racecourse and the Motor Show (mid-Oct),
vary), Bondi Beach (see Royal Randwick racecourse. Sydney Convention and
p137). Multicultural kite-flying Australian Rugby League Exhibition Centre, Darling
festival; music, dance. Grand Final, Stadium Harbour (see p92).
Primavera (Sep–mid-Nov). Australia, Homebush.
Highly regarded talent-spotting New South Wales Rugby NOVEMBER
show at the Museum of Union Grand Final, Sydney
Contemporary Art (see p73). Football Stadium (see p52). Melbourne Cup Day (first
Tulip Time Bowral (late Sep– Tue). The city almost grinds to
early Oct), Bowral (see p162). OCTOBER a halt mid-afternoon to tune
A two-week festival of open in to Australia’s most popular
Manly International Jazz horse race. Restaurants and
Festival (Labour Day week- hotels offer special luncheons
end). World-class jazz at a on the day.
variety of venues (see p133). Sculpture by the Sea (early
Fiesta (Labour Day weekend), Nov), Bondi Beach. Hugely
Darling Harbour (see pp92–3). popular outdoor exhibition
Fiestas, parades and festivals of fantastic sculptures on the
from all nations, including path between Bondi and
music, arts, dance, puppets Tamarama beaches.
and fireworks. Sydney to the Gong Bicycle
Leura Garden Festival (early Ride (first Sun). From Moore
Oct), Blue Mountains (see Park to Wollongong. Over
Sacred ibis stilt-dancer at the pp160–61). A village fair 10,000 cyclists of all standards
Sydney in Bloom festival launches the festival, when do this 92-km (57-mile) ride.
 S Y D N E Y T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 49

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Sunshine Hours

Hours
A sunny climate is one
10 of Sydney’s main
attractions. There are
8 very few days with no
sunshine at all, even
6
in the middle of winter.
4 An up-to-date weather
forecast is available by
2
telephoning 1196.
0
Coastal weather condi-
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec tions can be obtained
by dialling 11541.

JANUARY Outdoor concert attracting

SUMMER huge crowds and hip acts.
Opera in the Domain Chinese New Year (late Jan or
Sydney turns festive in the (throughout Jan), The Domain early Feb). Lion dancing,
summer months. Christmas (see p107). A free performance firecrackers and other New
pageants and open-air carol of highlights from productions Year festivities take place in
singing in The Domain mark by Opera Australia. Chinatown (see p99), Darling
the start of the season. Then Cricket Test matches and one- Harbour and Cabramatta (p42)
there is the Sydney Festival, a day internationals held at Syd- Festival of Sydney (first
month of cultural events and ney Cricket Ground (see p52). week–end Jan). Fantastic music,
other popular entertainment, Flickerfest (early–mid-Jan), theatre, sport and art events.
culminating in Australia Day Bondi Pavilion (see
celebrations on 26 January. pp144–5). Festival of FEBRUARY
Summer, too, brings a feast Australian and
for sport lovers, with surfing international short New Mardi Gras Festival,
and lifesaving events, yacht films and animation. various inner-city
races and a host of local and Symphony under the venues (see pp30–31).
international cricket matches. Stars (throughout Jan), A month of events
The Domain (see p107). culminating in a street
Free concert performed parade, mainly on
by the Sydney Oxford Street, usually
Symphony Orchestra. held early March.
Ferrython (26 Jan), Tropfest (third Sun),
Sydney Harbour. Ferries Chinese New Darlinghurst and The
compete fiercely for line Year lion Domain. Hugely popu-
honours, as do rigged lar short film festival.
competitors in the Tall Ships North Bondi Classic Ocean
Race held on the same day. Swim (a Sun in early Feb),
Australia Day Concert North Bondi (see p137). A
“Santa Claus” at the surf: Christmas (26 Jan). Concerts take place 2-km (1½-mile) race. Any
Day celebrations on Bondi Beach all over the city. swimmer can enter. Coogee
Big Day Out (around 26 Jan), Surf Carnival (first weekend
DECEMBER Olympic Park, Homebush. in Feb), Coogee (see p55).

Carols in The Domain (Sat

before Christmas). Carols by
candlelight in the parkland of
the city’s favourite outdoor
gathering spot (see p107).
Christmas at Bondi Beach (25
Dec). Holidaymakers hold
their own unofficial party on
this famous beach (see p137).
Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race
(26 Dec). The harbour teems
with small craft as they escort
racing yachts out to sea for
the start of their journey.
New Year’s Eve (31 Dec).
Street parties in The Rocks and
Circular Quay and fireworks
displays on Sydney Harbour. Australia Day Tall Ships race in Sydney Harbour
50 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

MM Inches
125 5 Rainfall
Autumn is Sydney’s
100 4 rainiest season, with
March being the wettest
75 3 month, while spring is
50
the driest time of year.
2
Rainfall, however, can
25 1 often be unpredictable.
Long stretches of sunny
0 0 weather are common,
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec but so, too, are periods
of unrelenting rain.

Mar). A programme of more

AUTUMN than 40 events, many free,
including swimming, sailing,
After the humidity of the snorkelling, heritage tours and
summer, autumn brings fresh the Sydney Harbour Regatta.
mornings and cooler days Archibald, Wynne and
that are tailor-made for Sulman exhibitions (Mar), Art
outdoor pursuits. There are Gallery of NSW (pp108–11).
many sporting and cultural Annual exhibition of that year’s
events – some of them entries in the portraiture,
colourful and eccentric – to landscape, genre works and
tempt the visitor. For many, drawing competitions.
the Royal Easter Show is the Autumn Racing Carnival (six
highlight of the season. Anzac weeks during Mar and Apr).
Day (25 April) is a national Top-class races and big prize
holiday on which Australians money, at Rosehill and Royal
commemorate their war dead. Randwick racecourses. Woodchopping at the Easter Show

MARCH EASTER Darling Harbour Hoopla

(Easter long weekend),
Dragon Boat Races Sydney Royal Easter Darling Harbour (see pp92–3).
Festival (late Feb– Show (opens for two Circus acts and street theatre
early Mar), Darling weeks over Easter by magicians, acrobats, mime
Harbour (see pp92–3). period), Olympic Park. and other artists.
Brilliantly decorated Homebush. Country
Chinese dragon boats meets city for around APRIL
race across Cockle Bay. 14 days of ring events,
St Patrick’s Day Parade livestock and produce National Trust Heritage
(17 Mar, or closest Sun). St Patrick’s judging, woodchopping Festival (dates vary).
Hyde Park (see pp86–7) Day beer competitions, sheepdog Celebration of the natural and
to The Domain. Pubs trials, arts and crafts cultural heritage of Sydney.
serve green beer on the day. displays and sideshow alley www.nsw.nationaltrust.org.au
Sydney Harbour Week (early attractions. Anzac Day (25 Apr). Dawn
remembrance service held at
the Cenotaph, Martin Place (see
p84), with a parade by war
veterans along George Street.

MAY

Sydney Writers’ Festival

(dates vary), Pier 4/5 Hickson
Road, Walsh Bay.
Bridge to Bridge Power Boat
Classic (first Sun). Race from
Brooklyn Bridge to Upper
Hawkesbury Power Boat
Club, Windsor (see pp156–7).
Sydney Half Marathon
(Sun in May), from Pier One,
The Rocks. A 21-km (13-mile)
Traditional decorative dragon boats on Darling Harbour’s Cockle Bay run open to all standards.
 S Y D N E Y T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 51

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE

°C °F Temperature
30 85 This chart gives the
average minimum
24 75 and maximum tem-
peratures for Sydney.
18 65
Spring and autumn
12 55
are generally free of
extremes, but be
6 45 prepared for sudden
cold snaps in winter
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
32 and occasional bursts
of oppressive humid
heat in summer.

WINTER PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Winter in Sydney can be cold Australia Day (26 Jan)
enough to require warm Good Friday (variable)
jackets; temperatures at night Easter Monday (variable)
may drop dramatically away Anzac Day (25 Apr)
from the coast. The days are Queen’s Birthday
often clear and sometimes (second Mon in Jun)
surprisingly mild. Arts are a Bank Holiday
major feature of winter. There (first Mon in Aug: only banks
are lots of exhibitions and the and some financial institutions
Sydney Film Festival, which no are closed)
film buff will want to miss. Labour Day
(first Mon in Oct)
JUNE Australian soldiers or “Diggers” Christmas Day (25 Dec)
at an Anzac Day ceremony Boxing Day (26 Dec)
Manly Food and Wine Festival
(first weekend), Manly Beach
(see p133). Annual food and encompassing many forms of City to Surf Race (second
wine festival plus train rides, visual art, from painting and Sun). From the city to
bouncy castles and installations to Bondi Beach (see p137). A
more for children. photography and 14-km (9-mile) community
Darling Harbour Jazz performance art. event that attracts all types,
and Blues Festival Yulefest (throughout from amateurs to leading
(Queen’s Birthday winter), Blue Moun- marathon runners.
weekend), Darling tains (see pp160–61). Japan Festival (dates vary),
Harbour (see pp92–3). Hotels, guesthouses various venues. Ikebana,
Constantly changing and some restaurants tea ceremonies, sports and
line-up of jazz, blues, celebrate a midwinter music, with visiting acts of
country, gospel “Christmas” with log all kinds.
and world music fires and all the
performers. The familiar logo of Yuletide trimmings.
Sydney Film Festival the Film Festival NAIDOC (National
(two weeks mid-Jun), Aboriginal and Torres
State Theatre (see p82). The Strait Islander) Week (dates
latest short and feature films, vary). Week-long celebrations
as well as retrospectives and to build awareness and
showcases. understanding of Aboriginal
Winter Magic Festival culture and history.
(weekend closest to the winter The Rocks Aroma Festival (late
solstice), Katoomba. Celebrate Jul), The Rocks (see pp64–5).
the winter solstice with elves A festival celebrating ground
and fairies in an enchanting coffee, spices and teas.
street parade.
AUGUST
JULY
Sydney International Boat
Biennale of Sydney (two Show (early Aug),
months, mid-year), various Convention and Exhibition
venues. International festival, Centre and Cockle Bay Marina, Runners in the City to Surf Race,
held in even-numbered years, Darling Harbour (see p98). surging down William Street
52 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

SPOR TING SYDNEY

T hroughout Australia sport is a
way of life and Sydney is no
exception. On any day you’ll see
locals on golf courses at dawn, running
on the streets keeping fit, or having a
there is no end to the variety of sports
you can watch. Thousands gather at
the Aussie Stadium (Sydney Football
Stadium) and Sydney Cricket Ground
every weekend while, for those who
quick set of tennis after work. At cannot make it, sport reigns supreme
weekends, during summer and winter, on weekend television.
St Michael’s and Warringah
CRICKET golf courses. It is sensible to
phone beforehand for a book-
During the summer months ing, especially at weekends.
Test cricket and one-day Tennis is another favoured
internationals are played at sport. Courts available for hire
the Sydney Cricket Ground can be found all over Sydney.
(SCG). Tickets for weekday Many centres also have floodlit
sessions of the Tests can often courts available for night
be bought at the gate, although time. Try Cooper Park or
it is advisable to book well in Parkland Sports Centre.
advance (through Ticketek)
for weekend sessions of Test
matches and for all the one-
day international matches. Australia versus the All Blacks, SFS

Olympic Park is by far the

RUGBY LEAGUE AND biggest venue. Tickets for
RUGBY UNION State of Origin and Test
matches often sell out as soon
The popularity of rugby as they go on sale.
league knows no bounds in Rugby union is the second
Sydney. This is what people most popular football code. Playing golf at Moore Park, one of
are referring to when they talk Again, matches at Test level Sydney’s public courses
about “the footie”. There are sell out very quickly. For some
three major competition levels: premium trans-Tasman rivalry,
local, State of Origin – which catch a Test match between AUSTRALIAN RULES
matches Queensland against Australia’s “Wallabies” and the FOOTBALL
New South Wales – and Tests. New Zealand “All Blacks”.
The “local” competition fields Although not as popular as in
teams from all over Sydney as Melbourne, “Aussie Rules”
well as Newcastle, Canberra, GOLF AND TENNIS has a strong following in
Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Sydney. The local team, the
the Gold Coast, Far North Golf enthusiasts need not do Sydney Swans, plays its home
Queensland and Auckland, without their round of golf. games at the Sydney Cricket
New Zealand. There are many courses Ground during the season.
These matches are held all throughout Sydney where vis- Check a local paper for details.
over Sydney, although the itors are welcome at all times. Rivalry between the Sydney
Telstra Stadium at Sydney These include Moore Park, supporters and their Melbourne
counterparts is always strong.
Bus loads of diehard fans from
the south arrive to cheer on
their teams. Tickets can usual-
ly be bought at the ground on
the day of the game.

BASKETBALL

Basketball has grown in

popularity as both a spec-
tator and recreational sport in
recent years. Sydney has male
and female teams competing
in the National Basketball
League. The games, held at
One-day cricket match between Australia and the West Indies, SCG the Sydney Entertainment
 S P O R T I N G S Y D N E Y 53

DIRECTORY
Blue Mountains
Adventure Company
84a Bathurst Rd, Katoomba.
Tel 4782 1271.
www.bmac.com.au

BridgeClimb
5 Cumberland St,
The Rocks, Sydney.
Tel 8274 7777.
www.bridgeclimb.com.

Centennial Park Cycles

50 Clovelly Rd, Randwick.
Aerial view of the Aussie Stadium at Moore Park
Tel 9398 5027.
www.cyclehire.com.au
Centre, Haymarket, have
much of the pizzazz, colour HORSE RIDING Centennial Parklands
and excitement of American Equestrian Centre
basketball. Tickets can be For a leisurely ride, head to Cnr Lang & Cook Rds, Moore
purchased from Ticketek, on Centennial Park or contact the Park. Map 5 D5.
the phone or on the internet. Centennial Parklands Tel 9332 2809.
Equestrian Centre. They will
www.cqequestrian.com.au
give you details of the four rid-
CYCLING AND INLINE ing schools that operate in the Cooper Park Tennis
SKATING park. Samarai Park Riding Courts
School conducts trail rides Off Suttie Rd, Double Bay.
Sydney boasts excellent, safe through Ku-ring-gai Chase Tel 9389 3100.
locations for the whole family National Park (see pp154-5). www.cptennis.com.au
to go cycling. One of the Further afield, you can enjoy
most frequented is Centennial the magnificent scenery of the Megalong Australian
Park (see p127). You can hire Blue Mountains (see pp160-61) Heritage Centre
bicycles and safety helmets on horseback. The Megalong Megalong Valley Rd, Megalong
from Centennial Park Cycles. Australian Heritage Centre Valley. Tel 4787 8188.
Another increasingly has rides lasting from one hour www.megalongcc.com.au
popular pastime in summer is to an overnight ride. All levels
in-line skating, and skaters of experience are catered for. Moore Park Golf Club
can often be seen on the Cnr Cleveland St & Anzac Parade,
paths of the city’s parks as Moore Park. Map 5 B5.
well as on the streets. Tel 9663 1064.
Rollerblading.com.au runs www.mooreparkgolf.com.au
tours starting at Milsons Point Parkland Sports
to all parts of Sydney. If Cnr Anzac Parade & Lang Rd,
you’re unsteady, they also do
Moore Park.
group and private lessons.
Tel 9662 7033.
For those who like to keep
both feet firmly on the ground, Rollerblading.com.au
you can watch skateboarders Horse riding in one of the parks Tel 0411 872 022.
and inline skaters practising surrounding the city centre
their moves at the ramps at St Michael’s Golf Club
Bondi Beach (see p137). Jennifer St, Little Bay.
ADVENTURE SPORTS Tel 9311 0688.
www.stmichaelsgolf.com.au
You can participate in guided Samarai Park
bushwalking, mountain
Riding School
biking, canyoning, rock
90 Booralie Rd, Terrey Hills.
climbing and abseiling expe-
Tel 9450 1745.
ditions in the nearby Blue
Mountains National Park. The www.samaraipark.com
Blue Mountains Adventure Ticketek
Company runs one-day or Tel 132849.
multi-day courses and trips www.ticketek.com.au
for all standards of adventurer.
In the centre of Sydney, Warringah Golf Club
BridgeClimb Offers a 3½-hour 397 Condamine St, North Manly.
Inline skaters enjoying a summer guided climb to the summit of Tel 9905 4028.
evening on the city’s streets Sydney Harbour Bridge.
54 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney’s Beaches
Being a city built around the water, it is no wonder
that many of Sydney’s recreational activities involve the
sand, sea and sun. There are many harbour and surf
beaches throughout Sydney, most of them accessible by
bus (see p231). Even if you’re not a swimmer, the beaches
offer a chance to get away from it all for a day or week-
end and enjoy the fresh air and relaxed way of life.

or leave litter on their beaches. Scuba diving at Gordons Bay

SWIMMING To hire a surfboard, try Bondi
Surf Co on Campbell Parade,
Harbour beaches such as Bondi Beach, or Aloha Surf SCUBA DIVING
Camp Cove, Shark Bay and on Pittwater Road, Manly. If
Balmoral Beach are generally you would like to learn, there There are some excellent
smaller and more sheltered are two surf schools: Manly dive spots around Sydney,
than the ocean beaches. The Surf School and Lets Go Surfing especially in winter when the
latter have surf lifesavers in at Bondi Beach. They also water is clear, if a little cold.
distinctive red and yellow hire out boards and wetsuits. More favoured spots are
caps. Surf lifesaving carnivals Gordons Bay, Shelly Beach,
are held throughout summer. and Camp Cove.
Call Surf Life Saving NSW for WINDSURFING Pro Dive Coogee offers a
a calendar of events. District AND SAILING complete range of courses,
councils also provide their escorted dives, introductory
own lifeguards, who wear There are locations around dives for beginners, and hire
blue uniforms. Rules about Sydney suitable for every equipment. Dive Centre
swimming are rigorously level of windsurfer. Boards Manly also runs courses and
enforced, so try to familiarize can be hired from Balmoral introductory dives, hires
yourself with beach signage. Windsurfing and Kitesurfing equipment and conducts boat
The beaches can sometimes School. Good spots include dives seven days a week.
become polluted. The Beach Palm Beach, Narrabeen Lakes,
Watch and Harbour Watch La Perouse, Brighton-Le-Sands DIRECTORY
Info Line gives information and Kurnell Point (for
about pollution levels. beginner and intermediate Balmoral Windsurfing
boarders) and Long Reef and Kitesurfing School
Beach, Palm Beach and Balmoral Sailing Club, Balmoral
SURFING Collaroy (for the more Beach. Tel 9960 5344.
experienced windsurfer). www.sailboard.net.au
Surfing is more a way of life One of the best ways to see
Beach Watch and
than a leisure activity for the harbour is while sailing.
some Sydneysiders. If you’re A sailing boat, including a Harbour Watch Info Line
Tel 1800 036 677.
a beginner, try Bondi, Bronte, skipper, can be hired for the
Palm Beach or Collaroy. afternoon from the East Sail Dive Centre Manly
Two of the best surf beaches sailing club. If you’d like to 10 Belgrave St, Manly. Tel 9977
are Maroubra and Narrabeen. learn how to sail, the sailing 4355. www.divesydney.com.au
Bear in mind that local surfers club has two-day courses East Sail
know one another well and do and also hires out sailing d’Albora Marinas, New Beach Rd,
not take kindly to “intruders” boats and motor cruisers to Rushcutters Bay. Tel 9326 2355.
who drop in on their waves experienced sailors. www.eastsail.com.au
Lets Go Surfing
128 Ramsgate Ave North Bondi.
Tel 9365 1800.
www.letsgosurfing.com.au
Manly Surf School
North Steyne Rd, Manly.
Tel 9977 6977.
www.manlysurfschool.com
Pro Dive Coogee
27 Alfreda St, Coogee.
Tel 9665 6333.
Surf Life Saving NSW
Tel 9984 7188.
www.surflifesaving.com.au
Rock baths and surf lifesaving club at Coogee Beach
 S P O R T I N G S Y D N E Y 55

RESTAURANT/CAFE
Brok TOP 30 BEACHES

PICNIC/BARBECUE
SWIMMING POOL
en

ek
Ba

SCUBA DIVING
WINDSURFING
The beaches shown
re

y
here have been selected
C
n

a Palm Beach for their safe swimming,

SURFING

FISHING
w
Co water sports, facilities
available or their
Whale Beach
The Basin picturesque setting.

a t e r Avalon ● ■ ● ■ ■
RING-GAI CHAS ● ● ■ ● ■ ●
KU- E Avalon Balmoral
t w

N AT I
O N A L PA R K Beach
The Basin ● ■

A N
i t

P Bilgola
Bilgola
O C E Bondi Beach ● ■ ■ ● ■ ●
Bronte ● ■ ■ ● ■ ●
Camp Cove ●
P A C I F I C

Newport
Beach
Clifton Gardens ● ● ■ ● ■
Clovelly ● ■ ● ■ ●
Coogee ● ● ■ ● ■ ●
Curl Curl ● ■ ■
U T H

Dee Why ● ■ ■ ● ■ ●
Fairy Bower ●
S O

Fishermans Beach ■ ● ■ ●
Narrabeen Freshwater ● ■ ■ ● ■
Gordons Bay ■ ●
Fishermans Beach Long Reef ■ ● ■ ●
Manly Beach ● ■ ● ■ ●
Long Reef
Maroubra ■ ● ■ ● ■ ●
Dee Why Narrabeen ● ■ ■ ■
Newport Beach ● ■ ● ■ ■
Curl Curl Obelisk Bay (naturist)
Palm Beach ● ■ ● ■ ■ ●
Freshwater
Parsley Bay ● ■
Seven Shillings Beach ● ■
Manly Beach
Shelly Shark Bay ● ■ ●
Fairy
Bower
Beach
Shelly Beach ● ■ ●
Tamarama ■ ■ ● ■ ●
Watsons Bay ● ● ■ ● ●
ddle
Mi
Harbour
Whale Beach ● ■ ● ■ ■ ●
Balmoral

Clifton Camp Cove

Gardens THE TYPES OF WAVES
Watsons Bay
Parsley Bay
Cresting waves can be
n
so

Shark identified by the foam that

ck

Po Bay is created as they break

rt Ja from the top. These waves
are ideal for board riding
Seven Shillings
Beach
and body surfing.
SYDNEY

Plunging waves curl into a

Bondi Beach tube before breaking close
to the shore. Fondly known
Tamarama as “dumpers”, these waves
Bronte Beach should only be tackled by
KEY experienced surfers.
Clovelly
Patrolled beach
Gordons Bay Surging waves are those
Surfboard hire that don’t appear to break.
Coogee
They often travel all the way
0 kilometres 3 into the beach before break-
ing and can easily sweep a
0 miles 2 Maroubra toddler or child off its feet.
 56 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Garden Island to Farm Cove

Sydney’s vast harbour, also named
Port Jackson after a Secretary in the
British Admiralty who promptly
changed his name, is a drowned
river valley which was transformed
Waterlily in the Royal over millions of years. Its intricate
Botanic Gardens
coastal geography of headlands and
secluded bays can sometimes confound even life-
long residents. This waterway was the lifeblood of The city skyline is a result of random
the early colony, with the maritime industry a vital development. The 1960s indiscrimin-
ate destruction of architectural history
source of wealth and supply. The legacies of alter- was halted, and towers now stand
nate recessions and booms can be viewed along the amid Victorian buildings.
shoreline: a representative story in a nation where an
estimated 70 per cent of the population cling to the
coastal cities, especially along the eastern seaboard.

Two harbour beacons,

known as “wedding cakes”
because of their three
tiers, are solar powered
and equipped with a
fail-safe back-up. There
are around 350 buoys
and beacons now in
operation.

The barracks for Garden Island

the naval garrison marks a 1940s con-
date from 1888. struction project
with 12 ha (30
acres) reclaimed
from the harbour.

Sailing on the harbour is a pastime not

exclusively reserved for the rich and elite. Of
the several hundred thousand pleasure boats
registered, some are available for hire while
others take out groups of inexperienced sailors.
Mrs Macquaries Chair is a carved rock seat by
Mrs Macquaries Road (see p106). In the early
0 metres 250
days of the colony, this was the site of a fruit and
0 yards 250
vegetable garden which was farmed until 1805.
 T H E C I T Y S H O R E L I N E 57

The Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool is

a favourite bathing spot for inner-city
residents, and is named after the
Sydneysider who, at the age of 16, won THE ROCKS
AND CIRCULAR
an Olympic gold medal in 1924. It was QUAY
erected in 1963 on the Domain Baths’ BOTANIC
site, which had a grandstand for 1,700. GARDENS AND
THE DOMAIN

CITY KINGS CROSS AND

Woolloomooloo Finger CENTRE DARLINGHURST
Wharf has been developed
as a dynamic entertainment LOCATOR MAP
and residential complex. See Street Finder, map 2

Harry’s Café de Wheels, a snack van,

has been a Sydney culinary institution
for more than 50 years. Photographs
of celebrity customers are pinned
to the van, attesting to its fame.

The Royal Botanic Gardens

display a profusion of both
flowering and non-flowering
plants. The first trees were
planted by the newly arrived
European colonists. Some of
these plants survive today.

Farm Cove has

long been a mooring
place for visiting naval
vessels. The land opposite,
now the Botanic Gardens,
has been continuously cul-
tivated for over 200 years.
 58 I N T R O D U C I N G S Y D N E Y

Sydney Cove to Walsh Bay Conservatorium

of Music
It is estimated that over 70 km (43 miles)
of harbour foreshore have been lost as a
result of the massive land reclamation pro-
jects carried out since the 1840s. That the
13 islands existing when the First Fleet
arrived in 1788 have now been reduced to
just eight is a startling indication of rapid
and profound geographical transformation.
Detail from Redevelopments around the Circular Quay
railing at
Circular Quay
and Walsh Bay area from the 1980s have
opened up the waterfront for public use
and enjoyment, acknowledging it as the city’s
greatest natural asset. Sydney’s environmental
and architectural aspirations recognize the
need to integrate city and harbour.

1857 Man
O’War Steps

The Sydney Opera House was Government House,

designed to take advantage of its a Gothic Revival building,
spectacular setting. The roofs was home to the state’s
shine during the day and seem governors until 1996
to glow at night. The building
can appear as a visionary land-
scape to the pedestrian onlooker.

The Sydney Harbour

Harbour cruises regularly depart Bridge was also known
from Circular Quay, taking visitors out as the “Iron Lung” at the
and about both during the day and in time of its construction.
the evening. They are an incomparable During the Great Depres-
way to see the city and its waterways. sion it provided on-site
work for approximately
0 metres 250 1,400, while many more
were employed in the
0 yards 250 specialist workshops.
 T H E C I T Y S H O R E L I N E 59

The Rocks, settled by convicts and

troops in 1788, is one of Sydney’s
oldest neighbourhoods. Rich in
heritage, many of its old sandstone THE ROCKS
AND CIRCULAR
buildings have been restored and QUAY
house speciality and craft shops. BOTANIC
GARDENS AND
THE DOMAIN

CITY KINGS CROSS AND

The Tank Stream, the CENTRE DARLINGHURST
colony’s first water supply,
now runs underground
and spills into the quay. LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, maps 1 & 2

Cahill
Expressway

Circular Quay, originally and more accurately

known as Semi-Circular Quay, was the last and
arguably greatest convict-built structure. Tank
Stream mudflats were filled in to shape the quay,
and sandstone from The Rocks formed the sea wall.

The Wharf Theatre resides

on a pier that took six years to
build, mostly due to the diver-
sion of labour and materials
during World War I. The
theatre was opened in 1984.

The wharves’ design

The wharves were
completed in 1922. included a rat-proof
sea wall around the
port. This was an
Imports and exports urgent response to the
to and from the city 1900 bubonic plague
were stored in these outbreak, attributed to
wharves until 1977. rats on the wharves.
 SYDNEY AREA
BY AREA

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY 6277

CITY CENTRE 7889
DARLING HARBOUR 90101
BOTANIC GARDENS
AND THE DOMAIN 102115
KINGS CROSS AND DARLINGHURST 116121
PADDINGTON 122127
FURTHER AFIELD 128139
FOUR GUIDED WALKS 140149
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 63

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY

C ircular Quay, once known as
Semi-Circular Quay, is often
referred to as the “birth-
place of Australia ”. It was here,
in January 1788, that the First
Rocks are focal points for New Year’s
Eve revels, and Circular Quay drew
huge crowds when, in 1994, Syd-
ney was awarded the year 2000
Olympic Games. The Rocks
Fleet landed its human freight area offers visitors a taste of
of convicts, soldiers and offi- Sydney’s past, but it is a far
cials, and the new British cry from the time, less than
Sculpture on
colony of New South Wales the AMP Building, 100 years ago, when most
was declared. Sydney Cove Circular Quay inhabitants lived in rat-infested
became a rallying point whenever a slums and gangs ruled its streets. Now
ship arrived bringing much-needed scrubbed and polished, The Rocks
supplies from “home”. Crowds still forms part of the colourful promenade
gather here whenever there is some- from the Sydney Harbour Bridge to
thing to celebrate. The Quay and The the spectacular Opera House.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Streets and Customs House u Museums and Galleries
Buildings Macquarie Place i The Rocks Discovery
Campbell’s Storehouses 1 Museum 3
Churches
George Street 2 Susannah Place Museum 4
Garrison Church 9
Cadman’s Cottage 6 Sailors’ Home 5
Argyle Stores 8 St Philip’s Church a Westpac Museum 7
Sydney Observatory 0 Justice and Police Museum y
Theatres and Concert Halls
Hero of Waterloo q Museum of Contemporary
Wharf Theatre w
Sydney Harbour Bridge Art o
Sydney Opera House
pp70–71 e National Trust Centre p
pp74–7 r
Writers’ Walk t
GETTING THERE
Circular Quay is the best stop
for ferries and trains. Sydney
Explorer and bus routes 431,
432, 433 and 434 run regularly
to The Rocks, while most buses
through the city go to the Quay.


%

"
%

30
"
0

5

3

&&

40/
53
/
0

4
,4

:
8"

,



*$

*$
35
)

*()

)
0

-%
)

'

%'*&
&3

30"%

0 /

,4
8

#3"
-0
$
)*

5
53&&




4

&5

"/%

453&

"3(:-&


4 5 3 &
#&3-

&5

0#4&37"503:

(&03(&

4ZEOFZ

$6.

1"3,

$PWF
, & /
) * $

."$26"3*&










453&&5
5

$*3$6-"3
26":
KEY
, 4 0

50--




4

$")*--
&913&448":
&5

10*/5
Street-by-Street map
/

53&

&5

See pp64–5
5 3 &

1*55



453&&5

1)*--*1
453&&5
%

4

$JSDVMBS
3&

2VBZ
45
& 5

-"/

CityRail station
3 0

#&3

( & 0 3 ( &

" %

Bus terminus
$6.

5
3 & &

4 5





(3047&/ 03
45
# 3 *
% ( & Ferry boarding point
-"/(

1"3,
RiverCat boarding point
0 metres 500
Railway line
0 yards 500

The historic Sailors’ Home, parts of which date back to 1864

64 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: The Rocks

Named for the rugged cliffs that were once its
dominant feature, this area has played a vital role
in Sydney’s development. In 1788, the First
Fleeters under Governor Phillip’s command
erected makeshift buildings here, with the
convicts’ hard labour used to establish more
Governor
Arthur Phillip
permanent structures in the form of rough-
hewn streets. The Argyle Cut, a road carved
through solid rock using just hammer and chisel, took 18
years to build, beginning in 1843. By 1900, The Rocks was
overrun with disease; the street now known as Suez Canal Hero of Waterloo
was once Sewer’s Canal. Today, Lying beneath this historic
the area is still rich in Hero of pub is a tunnel originally
Waterloo
colonial history used for smuggling q
and colour.
WAT LOWER

ARG UE
SON

EN
AV
YLE

ITY
ROA

IN
TR
ST
D

RE
ET

ET
STRE
UPPER FORT
Y
HWA
HIG
D
D FIEL
BRA

EET
STR
D
AN
ERL R
CUM
B STE
UCE
GLO
. Sydney Observatory
The first European struc-
ture on this prominent R
AI
site was a windmill. The A YF
PL
present museum holds
AR

some of the earliest astro-

GY

ET
LE

nomical instruments ST
RE
brought to Australia 0
ST

T ON
NG
RE

RI
ET

R
HA
Garrison Church
Columns in this church are
decorated with the insignia
of British troops stationed
ET
here until 1870. Australia’s RE
ST
first prime minister was
GE
educated next door 9 OR
GE
Argyle Cut

Suez Canal

. Museum of
Contemporary Art
The stripped Classical façade
belies the contemporary nature
of the Australian and inter-
Walkway along
national art displayed in an Circular Quay
ever-changing programme o West foreshore
 T H E R O C K S A N D C I R C U L A R Q U AY 65

The Rocks
Discovery
Museum
Key episodes in
The Rocks’ history
are illustrated by THE ROCKS BOTANIC
this museum’s col- AND CIRCULAR GARDENS
QUAY AND THE
lection of maritime DOMAIN
images and other CITY CENTRE

artefacts 3
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, map 1

The Rocks Market

is a hive of activity
every weekend,
FORT STREET offering an eclectic
range of craft items
and jewellery
AY utilizing Australian
HIGHW
IELD icons from gum
BRADF
leaves to koalas.
ET
RE
ST

LK
WA
N
KSO
HIC
EET
STR

ET
RE
ST
RGE

. Cadman’s Cottage
GEO

John Cadman, government

coxswain, resided in what
was known as the Coxswain’s
T
Barracks with his family. His wife
ES Elizabeth was also a significant
W
AY figure, believed to be the first
QU
woman to vote in New South
Wales, a right she insisted on 6
R 0 metres 100
LA
R CU
CI 0 yards 100

KEY
Suggested route

STAR SIGHTS
The Overseas . Cadman’s Cottage
Passenger Terminal
is where some of the . Museum of
world’s luxury cruise Contemporary Art
liners, including the
QEII, berth during . Sydney Observatory
their stay in Sydney.
66 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Campbell’s George Street 2 colony must have looked like,

Storehouses 1 characterized by cobbled pave-
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, ments, narrow side streets,
432, 433, 434. warehouses, bond stores, pubs
7–27 Circular Quay West; The Rocks.
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, and shop fronts that reflect the
432, 433, 434. 6 7 Formerly the preserve of area’s maritime history. Even
wealthy merchants, sailors the Museum of Contemporary
In 1798, the Scottish and the city’s working class, Art (see p73), constructed
merchant Robert Campbell George Street today is a during the 1950s, began its life
sailed into Sydney Cove and popular attraction with visitors as the Maritime Services
soon established himself as a to Sydney, who are drawn to Board’s administration offices.
founding father of commerce its restaurants, art galleries, In the early 1970s union
for the new colony. With museums, jewellery stores workers placed “green bans”
trade links already established and craft souvenir shops. For on the demolition of The
in Calcutta, his business one-stop memento and gift Rocks (see p31). These streets
blossomed. In 1839, Campbell shopping it is ideal, with little had been considered slum
began constructing a private of the mass-produced and areas by the government of
wharf and stores to house the tacky, but a great deal in the the day. However many of
tea, sugar, spirits and cloth he way of modern Australian the buildings in George Street
imported from India. Twelve craft of a very high calibre, were restored and are now
sandstone bays had been with many unique pieces. listed by the National Trust.
built by 1861 and a brick One of Sydney’s original The Rocks remains a vibrant
upper storey was added in thoroughfares – some say part of the city, with George
about 1890. Part of the old Australia’s first street – it ran Street at its hub. A market is
sea wall and 11 of the original from the main water supply, held here every weekend,
stores still remain. The area the Tank Stream, to the tiny when part of the street is
soon took on the name of community in the Rocks, and closed off to traffic (see p203).
Campbell’s Cove, which it was known as Spring Street.
retains to this day. In 1810 it was renamed in
Today the bond stores honour of George III. George The Rocks
contain several harbourside Street today runs all the way
restaurants catering for a range from the Harbour Bridge to Discovery
of tastes, from contemporary the Central Railway Station Museum 3
to Chinese and Italian. It is a north of Chinatown.
delightful area in which to Many 19th-century buildings 2–6 Kendall Lane, The Rocks. Map 1
relax with a meal and watch remain, such as the 1844 B2. Tel 9251 9793.  Circular
the bustling boats in the Counting House at No. 43, Quay. @ Sydney Explorer, 431, 432,
harbour go by. The pulleys the Old Police station at No. 433, 434. # 10am–5:30pm daily.
that were used to raise cargo 127 (1882), and the Russell
from the wharf can still be Hotel at No. 143 (1887). This museum is in a restored
seen on the outside, near the But it is The Rocks end that 1850s sandstone coach house,
top of the building. most reflects what the early and has exhibitions on the

Umbrellas shade the terrace restaurants overlooking the waterfront at Campbell’s Storehouses
 T H E R O C K S A N D C I R C U L A R Q U AY 67

Mundey, imposed a con-

servation “green ban” on The
Rocks (see p31), temporarily
halting all demolition and
redevelopment work.

Sailors’ Home 5
106 George St, The Rocks. Map 1
B2. Tel 9255 1788. @ Sydney
Explorer, 339, 340, 431, 432, 433,
434. ¢ to the public.

Built in 1864 to provide

cheap lodgings for visiting
seamen, the Sailors’ Home is
now used as an art gallery.
The building’s original north
wing is Romanesque Revival
in design. The L-shaped wing
that fronts onto George Street
was added in 1926.
At the time it was built,
the Sailors’ Home was a
Old-style Australian products at the corner shop, Susannah Place welcome alternative to the
many seedy inns and brothels
history of the The Rocks, The museum now housed here in the area, saving sailors
including displays on its examines this working-class from the perils of “crimping”.
first Aboriginal inhabitants, domestic history, evoking the “Crimps” would tempt newly
the Cadigal people, and living conditions of its inhabi- arrived men into lodgings and
Sydney’s maritime history and tants. Rather than re-creating bars providing much-sought-
traditions in the 18th and a single period, the museum after entertainment. While
19th centuries. retains the many renovations drunk, the sailors would be
A unique collection of arch- made by successive tenants. sold on to departing ships,
aeological artifacts, such as an Built for Edward and Mary waking miles out at sea and
illegal alcohol still, and hist- Riley, who arrived from Ireland returning home in debt.
orical images with their niece Sailors used the home until
dating from the Susannah in 1838, 1980, when it was adapted for
early these solid houses use as a puppet theatre. The
establishment of have basement house is now home to the
the European kitchens and back- Billich Gallery, a privately
colony to the yard outhouses. owned art gallery. In the
postwar era helps Billy Tea on sale at the Connections to basement of the building is
visitors explore Susannah Place shop piped water and the Sailor’s Thai restaurant
the eventful and sewerage had (see p185), one of Sydney’s
colourful history of this probably arrived by the mid- top dining spots.
neighbourhood. The displays 1850s. The museum
are enhanced by interactive surveys the houses’
high-tech touch screens and development over the years,
audiovisual exhibits, bringing from wood and coal to
the history of the area alive. gas and electricity, which
enables the visitor to gauge
Susannah Place the gradual lightening of the
burden of domestic labour.
Museum 4 The terrace, including a
corner grocer’s shop, escaped
58–64 Gloucester St, The Rocks. Map the wholesale demolitions that
1 B2. Tel 9241 1893.  Circular occurred after the outbreak
Quay, Wynyard. @ Sydney Explorer, of bubonic plague in 1900,
431, 432, 433, 434. # 10am–5pm as well as later clearings of
Sat–Sun, daily in Jan & NSW school land to make way for the
hols. ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 6 8 Sydney Harbour Bridge and
This 1844 terrace of four the Cahill Expressway. In
brick and sandstone houses has the 1970s, it was saved once
a rare history of continuous again when the Builders
domestic occupancy from the Labourers’ Federation, under Interior of the Sailors’ Home,
1840s right through to 1990. the leadership of activist Jack viewed from an upper level
68 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Argyle Stores 8
18–24 Argyle St, The Rocks.
Map 1 B2. @ Sydney Explorer, 431,
432, 433, 434. # 10am–6pm daily.
¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. 6 7

The Argyle Stores consists of

a number of warehouses
around a cobbled courtyard.
They have been converted
into a retail complex of
mostly fashion and
accessories shops that retains
its period character.
Built between 1826 and the
early 1880s, the stores held
imported goods such as spirits.
All goods forfeited for the
Façade of Cadman’s Cottage, the oldest extant building in the city non-payment of duties were
auctioned in the courtyard.
Now, as a result of successive The oldest store was built for
Cadman’s land reclamations such as the Captain John Piper, but it was
Cottage 6 filling-in of Circular Quay in confiscated and sold after his
the 1870s, it is set well back arrest for embezzlement.
110 George St, The Rocks. Map 1 from the waterfront.
B2. Tel 9247 5033. @ 431, 432, 433
434. # 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri;
10am–4:30pm Sat & Sun. ¢ Good Westpac
Fri, 25 Dec. 6 Museum 7
Dwarfed by the adjacent 6–8 Playfair St, The Rocks.
Sailors’ Home, of which it was Map 1 B2. Tel 9763 5670. @
once part, this sandstone Sydney Explorer, 431, 432, 433, 434.
cottage serves as the infor- # 9am–noon, 1–4pm Mon–Fri.
mation centre for the Sydney ¢ public hols.
Harbour National Park and has Argyle Centre from the courtyard
information about guided From 1817, when the “holey”
harbour tours. Built in 1816 as dollar was in circulation and
a barracks for the crews of the Sydney’s first bank opened, to Garrison Church 9
governor’s boats, it is Sydney’s present-day plastic credit cards,
oldest surviving dwelling. this museum, located on the Cnr Argyle and Lower Fort Sts, Millers
The cottage is named after first floor, traces the history Point. Map 1 A2. Tel 9247 1268.
John Cadman, a convict who of banking in Australia. It also @ 431, 433. # 9am–6pm daily.
was transported in 1798 for covers the Olympic history in 67
horse-stealing. By 1813, he was 1956 and 2000 as Westpac
coxswain of a timber boat and was a sponsor of both of Officially named the Holy
the following year received an these games. There is a self- Trinity Church, this was
unconditional pardon. In 1821, guided tour with interactive dubbed the Garrison Church
he was granted a full pardon. and holographic displays but because it was the colony’s
Six years later, he was made this small museum can be first military church. Officers
boat superintendent of govern- seen in less than an hour. and men from various British
ment craft and took up resi-
dence in the four-room cottage
that now bears his name.
Cadman married Elizabeth
Mortimer in 1830. She had also
arrived in Sydney as a convict,
sentenced to seven years trans-
portation for the theft of one
hairbrush. The couple, along
with Elizabeth’s two daughters,
lived in the cottage until 1846.
When Cadman’s Cottage was
built it stood on the foreshore
of Sydney Harbour. At high
tide, the water used to lap just
2.5 m (8 ft) from the door. Bank of New South Wales one pound note from around 1830
 T H E R O C K S A N D C I R C U L A R Q U AY 69

regiments, stationed at Dawes Hero of

Point fort, attended morning
prayers here until 1870.
Waterloo q
Henry Ginn designed the 81 Lower Fort St, The Rocks. Map
church and, in 1840, the foun- 1 A2. Tel 9252 4553. @ 431, 432,
dation stone was laid. In 1855, 433, 434. # 10am–11pm Mon–Tue,
the architect Edmund Blacket 10am–11:30pm Wed–Sat, 10am–
was engaged to enlarge the 10pm Sun. ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. 6
church to accommodate up to 7 ground floor only
600 people. These extensions,
minus the spire that Blacket
proposed, were completed in This picturesque old inn is
1878. Regimental plaques welcoming in the winter,
hung along interior walls when its log fires and
recall the church’s cosy ambience offer
military associations. respite from the chill
Other features to outside. Built in The corner façade of the Hero of
look out for are the 1844 from sandstone Waterloo hotel in Millers Point
brilliantly coloured excavated from the
east window and the Argyle Cut, this was 20th-century finger wharf at
carved red cedar a favourite drinking Walsh Bay in 1984. Pier 4/5 is
pulpit. The window place for the nearby one of four finger wharves at
was donated by a garrison’s soldiers. Walsh Bay, reminders of the
devout parishoner, Unscrupulous sea time when this was a busy part
Dr James Mitchell, East window, captains were said of the city’s maritime industry.
scion of a leading Garrison Church to use the hotel to The site fulfilled the Sydney
Sydney family. The recruit. Patrons who Theatre Company’s need for a
church also houses a museum drank themselves into a stupor base large enough to hold
displaying early Australian were pushed into the cellars theatres, rehearsal rooms and
military and historical items. through a trapdoor. From here administration offices. The
they were carried along under- ingenious conversion of the
ground tunnels to the wharves once-derelict heritage building
Sydney nearby and onto waiting ships. into a modern theatre complex
Observatory 0 is recognized as an outstand-
ing architectural achievement.
Watson Rd, Observatory Hill, Wharf Theatre w Since then, the main theatre
The Rocks. Map 1 A2. has been a venue for many of
Tel 9921 3485. @ Sydney Explorer, Pier 4, Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay. Map the company’s productions. It
343, 431, 432. # 10am–5pm daily. 1 A1. Tel 9250 1700. @ 430, 431, has seen premieres of plays
Night viewings Call to book. 432, 433, 434. Box office Tel 9250 from leading Australian play-
¢ 25 Dec. & 6 7 8 1777. # 9am–7pm Mon, 9am– wrights such as Michael Gow
www.sydneyobservatory.com.au 8:30pm Tue–Fri, 11am–8:30pm Sat. and David Williamson, as well
6 7 phone in advance. as performances of new works
In 1982, this domed building, www.sydneytheatre.com.au from overseas.
which had been a centre for See Entertainment p210. At the tip of the wharf, the
astronomical observation and bar area and Wharf Restaurant
research for almost 125 years, The then recently formed (see p185) command superb
became the city’s astronomy Sydney Theatre Company harbour views across to the
museum. It has interactive took possession of this early Harbour Bridge (see pp70–71).
equipment and games, along
with night sky viewings; it is
essential to book for these.
The building began life in
the 1850s as a time-ball tower.
At 1pm daily, the ball on top
of the tower dropped to signal
the correct time. A cannon
was fired simultaneously at
Fort Denison. This custom
continues today (see p107).
In the 1880s, some of the
first astronomical photographs
of the southern sky were taken
here. From 1890–1962, the
observatory mapped 750,000
stars as part of an international
project that produced an atlas
of the entire night sky. The Wharf Theatre, a former finger wharf, jutting on to Walsh Bay
 70 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Sydney Harbour Bridge e

Completed in 1932, the construction of the

Sydney Harbour Bridge was an economic feat,
given the depressed times, as well as an engi-
neering triumph. Prior to this, the only links
between the city centre on the south side of the
harbour and the residential north side were by ferry
or a circuitous 20-km (12½-mile) road route with
five bridge crossings. Known as the “Coathanger”,
Ceremonial the single-span arch bridge was manufactured in The 1932 Opening
scissors sections and took eight years to build, including The ceremony was disrupted
the railway line. Loans for the total cost of when zealous royalist Francis
approximately 6.25 million Australian pounds were paid de Groot rode forward and
off in 1988. Intrepid visitors can make the vertiginous cut the ribbon, in honour, he
climb to its summit, with spectacular views as reward. claimed, of King and Empire.

The deck, 59 m (194 ft) The arch spans

above sea level, was 503 m (1,650 ft) and
built from the centre. supports the weight
of the bridge deck.
CITY CENTRE

Harbour Bridge
Pylon Lookout Building the foundations

Beginning the arch

BUILDING THE BRIDGE

Planted in solid sandstone, the found-
ations are 12 m (39 ft) deep. The arch was
built in halves with steel cable restraints Joining the arch
initially supporting each side. Once the
two halves met, work began on the deck.

Anchoring tunnels Deck under construction

are 36 m (118 ft) Support cables were
long and dug into slackened over a 12- Temporary
rock at each end. day period, enabling attachment plate
the two halves to join.

The Bridge Design

The steel arch of the bridge
supports the deck, with hinges
at either end bearing the bridge’s
full weight and spreading the load
to the foundations. The hinges allow the
structure to move as the steel expands
and contracts in response to wind
and extreme temperatures.
 T H E R O C K S A N D C I R C U L A R Q U AY 71

BridgeClimb VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Thousands of
people have Map 1 B1. @ all routes to The
enjoyed the spec- Rocks. g Circular Quay.  Cir-
cular Quay, Milsons Point. Bridge
tacular bridge-top
Climb Tel 8274 7777. & Pylon
views after a 3.5- Lookout & Mus Tel 9240 1100.
hour guided tour # 10am–5pm daily. ¢ 25 Dec.
up ladders, cat- & www.bridgeclimb.com
walks and finally www.pylonlookout.com.au
the upper arch of
the bridge (see
p53).

Over 150,000 vehicles Bridge Workers

cross the bridge each The bridge was built
day, about 15 times as by 1,400 workers, 16
many as in 1932. of whom were killed
in accidents during
construction.

NORTH SHORE

Maintenance
Painting the bridge The vertical hangers
has become a meta- support the slanting
phor for an endless crossbeams which, in
task. Approximately turn, carry the deck.
30,000 litres (6,593
gal) of paint are
required for each
coat, enough to cover
an area equivalent
to 60 soccer pitches.

FATHER OF THE BRIDGE

Chief engineer Dr John Bradfield
shakes the hand of the driver of
the first train to cross the bridge.
Over a 20-year period, Bradfield
supervised all aspects of the
bridge’s design and construction.
At the opening ceremony, the
Paying the Toll highway linking the harbour’s
The initial toll of sixpence helped pay off the construc- south side and northern suburbs
tion loan. The toll is now used for maintenance and was named in his honour.
to pay for the 1992 Sydney Harbour Tunnel.
72 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Customs House u
31 Alfred St, Circular Quay. Map 1 B3.
Tel 9242 8595. @Circular Quay
routes. # 8am–7pm Mon–Fri,
10am–4pm Sat, noon–4pm Sun. ¢
25 Dec, Good Fri. 6 - 0 7

Colonial architect James

Barnet designed this 1885
sandstone Classical Revival
building on the site of an ear-
lier Customs House. It recalls
the days when trading ships
loaded and unloaded their
goods at the quay. Features
Strolling along a section of the Writers’ Walk at Circular Quay include columns in polished
granite, a sculpted coat of
Sydney Opera Station, designed by Alexander arms and a clock face, added
Dawson in 1858; and Police in 1897, bearing a pair of
House r Court designed by tridents and dolphins.
James Barnet in Customs House
See pp74–7. 1885. Here the reopened in 2005 after
rough-and-tumble major refurbishment.
underworld of Facilities include a
Writers’ Walk t quayside crime, City Library with a
from the petty to reading room and
Circular Quay. Map 1 C2. the violent, was exhibition space, and
@ Circular Quay routes. dealt swift and, at an open lounge area
times, harsh justice. Detail from with an international
This series of plaques is set The museum exhibits Customs House newspaper and maga-
in the pavement at regular bear vivid testimony zine salon, internet
intervals between East and to that turbulent period, as access and bar. On the roof,
West Circular Quay. It gives the they document and re-create Café Sydney offers great views.
visitor the chance to ponder legal and criminal history.
the observations of famous Late-Victorian legal proceed-
Australian writers, both past ings can be easily imagined in Macquarie Place i
and present, on their home the fully restored courtroom.
country, as well as the musings Menacing implements from Map 1 B3. @ Circular Quay routes.
of some noted literary visitors. knuckledusters to bludgeons
Each plaque is dedicated to are displayed as the macabre In 1810, governor Lachlan
a particular writer, with a quo- relics of violent and notorious Macquarie created this park
tation and a brief biographical crimes. Other aspects of on what was once part of the
note. Australian writers include policing and justice are high- vegetable garden of the first
novelists Miles Franklin and lighted in regularly changing Government House. The
Peter Carey, poets Oodgeroo exhibitions. The bushranger sandstone obelisk, designed
Noonuccal and Judith Wright, exhibit, prison artefacts, and by convict architect Francis
humorists Barry Humphries forensic display powerfully Greenway (see p114), was
and Clive James, and the influ- evoke the realities of the erected in 1818 to mark the
ential feminist writer Germaine justice system in Australia. starting point for all roads in
Greer. Among visiting writers the colony. The gas lamps
are Charles Darwin, Joseph recall the fact that this was
Conrad and Mark Twain. also the site of Sydney’s first
street lamp, installed in 1826.
Also in this little triangle of
Justice and Police history are the remains of the
Museum y bow anchor and cannon from
HMS Sirius, flagship of the First
Cnr Albert & Phillip sts. Map 1 C3. Fleet. There is also a statue of
Tel 9252 1144. @ Circular Quay Thomas Mort, a 19th-century
routes. # 10am–5pm Sat–Sun (daily industrialist whose vast busi-
Jan & NSW school hols). ¢ Good Fri, ness interests embraced gold,
25 Dec. & 8 6 7 restricted. coal and copper mining, dairy
and cotton farming, wool auc-
The museum’s buildings were tioning and ship repair. These
originally the Water Police days his statue is a marshalling
Court, designed by Edmund Montage of criminal “mug shots”, place for the city’s somewhat
Blacket in 1856; Water Police Justice and Police Museum kamikaze bicycle couriers.
 T H E R O C K S A N D C I R C U L A R Q U AY 73

St Philip’s Church a
3 York St (enter from Jamison St).
Map 1 A3. Tel 9247 1071. @ George
St routes. # 9am–5pm Tue-Fri.
¢ 26 Jan. 6 8 5 1:10pm Wed,
8:30am, 10am Sun. www.stphilips-
sydney.org.au

Despite its elevated site, this

Victorian Gothic church
seems overshadowed in its
modern setting. Yet, when it
was first built, the tall square
tower with its decorative pin-
Façade of the Museum of Contemporary Art nacles was a local landmark.
Begun in 1848, St Philip’s is
Museum of out onto a terrace with by Edmund Blacket, dubbed
superb views across to the “the Christopher Wren of
Contemporary Sydney Opera House. The Australia” for the 58 churches
Art o MCA Store sells distinctive he designed. In 1851, work
gifts by Australian designers. was disrupted when its stone-
Circular Quay West, The Rocks. masons left for the gold fields,
Map 1 B2. Tel 9245 2400. @ Sydney but was completed by 1856.
Explorer, 431, 432, 433 434. # 10am–
National Trust A peal of bells was donated
5pm daily. ¢ 25 Dec. 6 7 8 Centre p in 1858, with another added in
www.mca.com.au 1888 to mark Sydney’s centen-
Observatory Hill, Watson Rd, The Rocks. ary. These bells are still in use.
Sydney’s substantial collection Map 1 A3. Tel 9258 0123. @ Sydney
of contemporary art has Explorer, 343, 431, 432, 433, 434.
grown steadily, but largely out # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. Gallery
of public view, since 1943. # 11am–5pm Tue–Sun. ¢ public
This was the year John Power hols. 7 = -
died, leaving his art collection
and a financial bequest to the The buildings that form the
University of Sydney. headquarters of the con-
In 1991 the permanent servation organization, the
collection, including works by National Trust of Australia
Hockney, Warhol, Lichtenstein (NSW), date from 1815, when
and Christo, was transferred Macquarie chose the site
to this 1950s Art Deco-style on Observatory Hill for a
former Maritime Services Board military hospital.
Building. The museum also Today they house a café
hosts temporary exhibitions of and the S.H. Ervin Gallery,
works by both Australian and with changing exhibitions
International artists throughout the year, designed
At the front of the building to explore the richness and The interior and pipe organ of
the MCA Café (see p195) spills diveristy of Australian Art. St Philip’s Anglican church

A FLAGPOLE ON THE MUDFLATS

It is easy to miss the modest flagpole in Loftus
Street near Customs House. It flies a flag, the
Union Jack, on the spot where Australia’s first
ceremonial flag-raising took place. On 26
January 1788, Captain Arthur Phillip came
ashore to hoist the flag and declare the foun-
dation of the colony. A toast to the King was
drunk and a musket volley fired. On the same
day, the rest of the First Fleet arrived from
Botany Bay to join Phillip and his men. (On
this date each year, the country marks Australia
Day with a national holiday.) In 1788, the flag-
pole was on the edge of mudflats on Sydney
Cove. Today, because of the large amount of
The Founding of Australia by Algernon Talmage, land reclaimed to build Circular Quay, it is
which hangs in Parliament House (see pp112–13) some distance from the water’s edge.
74 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Sydney Opera House r

No building on earth looks like the Sydney

Opera House. Popularly known as the
“Opera House” long before the building was
complete, it is, in fact, a complex of theatres
and halls linked beneath its famous shells. Its
birth was long and complicated. Many of the
construction problems had not been faced
before, resulting in an architectural adventure
Advertising which lasted 14 years (see p77). An appeal
poster
fund was set up, eventually raising $900,000,
while the Opera House Lottery raised the balance of the
$102 million final cost. As well as being the city’s most . Opera Theatre
popular tourist attraction, the Sydney Opera House is Mainly used for opera and
also one of the world’s busiest performing arts centres. ballet, this 1,507-seat theatre
is big enough to stage grand
operas such as Verdi’s Aida.

The Opera Theatre

ceiling and walls are
painted black to focus
attention on the stage.

Detail of The Possum Dreaming (1988)

The mural in the Opera Theatre foyer is by
Michael Tjakamarra Nelson, an artist
from the central Australian desert.

Opera House Walkway

Extensive public walkways
around the building offer
the visitor views from many
different vantage points.
Northern Foyers
With spectacular views
STAR FEATURES over the harbour, the
Reception Hall and the
. Concert Hall large northern foyers of
the Opera Theatre and
. Opera Theatre Concert Hall can be hired
. The Roofs for conferences, lunches,
parties and weddings.
 T H E R O C K S A N D C I R C U L A R Q U AY 75

. Concert Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This is the largest
hall, with seating for Bennelong Point. Map 1 C2.
Tel 9250 7111. Box Office 9250
2,679. It is used for
7777. @ Sydney Explorer, 324,
symphony, choral, 438, 440. g Circular Quay. 
jazz, folk and pop Circular Quay. # tours and per-
concerts, chamber formances. 6 7 limited (9250
music, opera, dance 7777). 8 9am–5pm daily (except
and everything from Good Fri, 25 Dec). Call in advance
body building to (9250 7209). & 0 - =
fashion parades. www.sydneyoperahouse.com

The Monumental Steps Guillaume at Bennelong

and forecourt are used This dramatic and elegant
for outdoor
venue is one of the finest
performances.
restaurants in Sydney
(see p185).

The Playhouse, seating almost 400, is

ideal for intimate productions while also
able to present plays with larger casts.

. The Roofs
Although apoc-
ryphal, the theory that
Jørn Utzon’s arched roof
design came to him while peeling
an orange is appealing. The highest
point is 67 m (221 ft) above sea level.

Detail of Utzon’s Tapestry (2004)

Jørn Utzon’s original design for this Gobelin-
style tapestry, which hangs floor to ceiling in
the remodelled Reception Hall, was inspired
by the music of Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach.
76 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring Sydney Opera House

The Sydney Opera House covers almost 2 ha (4.5 acres),
and is the fourth building to stand on this prominent
site. Underneath the ten spectacular roofs of varying
planes and textures lies a complex maze of more than
1,000 rooms of all shapes and sizes. It is constantly
evolving: the newest space is The Studio, dedicated to
innovative, contemporary performing arts.

25 m (82 ft), while the orches-

tra pit accommodates up to
70–80 musicians. It is
rumoured that Box C plays
host to a resident ghost.

CONCERT HALL

The rich concert acoustics Sydney Dance Company poster

under the vaulted ceiling of
this venue are much admired. (160 ft) square, and can be
Sumptuous Australian wood clearly viewed from every seat
panelling and the 18 acoustic in the auditorium. Refrigerated
rings above the stage clearly aluminium panels in the ceiling
Coppelia in the Opera Theatre reflect back the sound. The control the temperature.
10,500 pipe Grand Organ was The Playhouse is used for
designed and built by Ronald small cast plays, lectures and
OPERA THEATRE Sharp from 1969–79. seminars, and is also a fully-
equipped cinema. The
The relatively compact size Sydney Theatre Company (see
of this venue is a bonus for DRAMA THEATRE AND p69) puts on at least one
patrons who savour intimacy. PLAYHOUSE performance here every year.
Stage designers continue to
demonstrate the opera theatre’s The Drama Theatre was not
great versatility for both opera in the original building plan, BACKSTAGE
and dance. The proscenium so jackhammers were brought
opening is 12 m (39 ft) wide, in to hack it out of the Artists performing at the
and the stage extends back concrete. Its stage is 15 m Opera House have the use of
five rehearsal studios, 60
dressing rooms and suites and
a green room complete with
restaurant, bar and lounge.
The scene-changing machin-
ery works on very well-oiled
wheels; most crucial in the
Opera Theatre where there is
regularly a nightly change of
performance, with an average
of 14 operas being performed
John Olsen’s Salute to Five Bells (1973) in the Concert Hall foyer in repertoire each year.

TIMELINE
1955 International design 1957 Utzon’s design wins Roof in mid-
competition announced and a lottery is established construction
to finance the building
1948 Sir Eugene Goossens 1973 Opera House
lobbies government and 1963 Building of officially opened by
Bennelong Point is chosen roof shells begins Queen Elizabeth II
as opera house site
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970

1959 1963 Utzon 1967 Concrete roof

Construction opens Sydney shells completed
begins office
1966 Utzon resigns. Australian 1973 Prokofiev’s opera War
Old tram shed at architects appointed to and Peace is the first public
Bennelong Point complete interior design performance in Opera House
 T H E R O C K S A N D C I R C U L A R Q U AY 77

The Design of the Opera House

In 1957, Jørn Utzon won the construction began in 1959, the
international competition to intricate design proved impossible
design the Sydney Opera House. to execute and had to be greatly
He envisaged a living sculpture modified. The project remained
that could be viewed from any so controversial that Utzon
angle – land, air or sea – with resigned in 1966 and an Aust-
the roofs as a “fifth façade”. It ralian design team completed
was boldly conceived, posing Jørn Utzon the building’s interior. In 1999
architectural and engineering problems Sydney Opera house was delighted
that Utzon’s initial compendium of when Utzon agreed to be involved in
sketches did not begin to solve. When guiding future changes to the building.

Segmented globe Segments separated

Several pieces cut

The Red Book, as submitted for the 1957 out of a globe were
design competition, contains Utzon’s original used in an ingenious
concept sketches for the Sydney Opera House. manner by architect
Jørn Utzon to make up
UTZON’S OPERA HOUSE MODEL the now familiar shell
Roof comes into view roof structure.
Shell membrane roof
Utzon visualized a
The northern building that “floated” The construction
foyers overlook on water. materials remain
Sydney Harbour.
clearly exposed.

Stepped base

Utzon’s original interiors

and many of his design
features now exist only in
model form. The architect
donated his models and
plans to the State Library
of NSW (see p112).

The pre-cast roof has its

inspiration in nature. The
basic idea for the formwork
of the roof was taken from The roof tiles were not
the fanlike ribs of a palm. fixed in place individually,
Realizing this deceptively but installed in panels to
simple idea took Utzon six create the smooth and
years of design work. continuous roof surface.
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 79

CITY CENTRE
A ustralia’s first thorough-
fare, George Street, was
originally lined with
clusters of mud and wattle
huts. The gold rushes brought
course, attracting illegal betting
and gambling taverns to Eliza-
beth Street. The park later
hosted other amusements:
wrestling matches, circuses,
bustling prosperity, and by the public hangings and, from
1880s shops and the archi- 1804 onwards, cricket matches
tecturally majestic edifices of Mosaic floor detail, between the army and the
St Mary’s Cathedral
banks dominated the area. town. Today it provides a
The city’s first skyscraper – Culwulla peaceful oasis, while the city’s com-
Chambers in Castlereagh Street – was mercial centre is an area of glamorous
completed in 1913, but the city coun- boutiques, department stores, arcades
cil then imposed a 46-m (150-ft) height and malls. Various exercise needs are
restriction which remained in place also catered for: the Cook & Phillip
until 1956. Hyde Park, on the edge of Park Centre in College Street is a great
the city centre, was first used as a race- pool and gym complex.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Streets and Cathedrals and Synagogues GETTING THERE
Buildings St Mary’s Cathedral 9 Town Hall, Wynyard, Martin
Marble Bar 1 Great Synagogue q Place, St James and Museum
Queen Victoria Building 2 St Andrew’s Cathedral e railway stations serve the area.
Strand Arcade 5 There are frequent buses, par-
Parks and Gardens ticularly along Elizabeth and
Martin Place 6
George Streets. Monorail stops
Lands Department Building 7 Hyde Park 0
are at City Centre,
Sydney Town Hall w Galeries Victoria
Theatres
and World Square.
Museums and Galleries State Theatre 3 5
& &
5 3
Museum of Sydney 8






4
453&&5

( &

* %
Australian Museum # 3

pp88–9 r
5
( & 0 3 (

&&
53

Landmarks


4
: 0

1 * 5 5

-*1
)

*(

Sydney Tower
3 ,

*-
&

#-

1)

$)*'-&:

p83 4

8:/:"3%

, &

426"3&
1"3,
/ 5

& - * ; " #

4 5 3 & &

$ " 4 5 - &
4 5 3 & & 5

8ZOZBSE

4 5
$ -

& 5 )




5
3 &

3 & " ( )

. " 35 * /










1 - " $ &

" 3

4 5

.BSUJO
& 5
3 &

1MBDF
& /

4 5 3 &
& 5

4
$ &

,*/(






453&&5

5
3&&


4 5 "%

& 5

(


30
5 3 & & 5

,*/ .
&4
( & 0

"
: 0

+
4 5

4U
+BNFT
45
, &
4 6

3 ,

3 ( &
3 &
/
4 4

& 5
5

& & 5
& 9

4 5 3

$ 0 - - & (

0 metres 500


$JUZ
$FOUSF

4

& 5

4 5

" 3 ,
.

1)*--*1




1"3,
4 5 3 & & 5

5 3 &
3 &

0 yards 500
$ " 4 5 - &
4 5

4

& - * ; " # &

):%&

& 5

&






3 &

& 5
5 3

$00,

& 5

KEY 1"3,
& &

(BMFSJFT
3 & " ( )

7JDUPSJB
5

5 )

&5 4 5 3 & & 5
8 * - - * " .


4 5 3 & & 5

Street-by-Street map 53& 1 " 3 ,

5
4
% 3 6 *5
See p80–81
1 * 5 5

3 * - & :

5PXO 1"3,






4

)BMM


4 5 3 & &

CityRail station
4 5 3 & & 5

& 5






4 5 3 &
# "5 ) 6 3 4 5
Monorail station
5 3 & & 5

5
4 5 3 & &

Bus terminus
5

.VTFVN
8PSME & & 5


4RVBSF
4 5 3
- * 7 & 3 1 0 0 -

Mythological figures in the Archibald Fountain, Hyde Park

80 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: City Centre

Although closely rivalled by Melbourne,
this is the business and commercial
capital of Australia. Vibrant by day, at night
the streets are far less busy when office
workers and shoppers have gone home.
The comparatively small city centre of this
Sculpture outside sprawling metropolis seems to be almost
the MLC Centre
jammed into a few city blocks. Because
Sydney grew in such a haphazard fashion, with many of
today’s streets following tracks from the harbour origi-
nally made by bullocks, there was no allowance for the
expansion of the burgeoning city into what has become
a major international centre. A colourful night scene of
cafés, restaurants and theatres is emerging, however, as
more people return to the city centre to live. . Queen Victoria Building
Taking up an entire city block,
this 1898 former produce
market has been lovingly
restored and is now a
shopping mall 2

t
ee
State Theatre r
st T
A gem from the era when the movies EE
R
reigned, this glittering and richly dec- r
k S
T
o
orated 1929 cinema was once hailed y
as “the Empire’s greatest theatre” 3
m
a
r
k
e

E
G
t

R
EO
G

To Sydney
Town Hall ET
RE
ST
The Queen Victoria
TT
Statue was found after PI
a worldwide search in
1983 ended in a small
Irish village. It had lain
forgotten and neglected
since being removed
from the front of the gH
A
Irish Parliament in 1947. RE
PA

LE
R

ST
K

CA
H
ST

STAR SIGHTS ET
AB
R
EE

Z
. Queen Victoria EL
I
T

0 metres 250
Building Marble Bar
0 yards 250 Once a landmark bar in the
. Sydney Tower
KEY
1893 Tattersalls hotel, it was
. Martin Place dismantled and re-erected in
Suggested route the Sydney Hilton in 1973 1
 C I T Y C E N T R E 81

Strand Arcade
A reminder of the late 19th cen- BOTANIC
CITY CENTRE
tury Victorian era when Sydney GARDENS
AND THE
was famed as a city of elegant DOMAIN

shopping arcades, this faithfully

restored example is said to have
been the finest of them all 5
DARLING
HARBOUR

LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, maps 1 & 4

ET
RE
ST

ge MLC Centre
or
ge (see p41)
m
a
rt
in
ki

. Martin Place
ng

pl
a

Martin Place’s 1929 Art

ce

Deco Cenotaph is the site

of annual Anzac Day war
et
remembrance services 6
re
st
st

tt ET
re

pi RE
ST
et

h
ag
e re
l
st ET
ca RE
ST

H Theatre
ET Royal
AB
L IZ
E
Skygarden shopping
ET arcade features elegant
RE
ST shops and boutiques
s

with designer labels,

t
r

and the popular

e
e

“Roof Top Bar”.

t

ET
RE
ST
Hyde Park’s
northern end

. Sydney Tower
The tower tops the city skyline, giving a
bird’s eye view of the whole of Sydney.
It rises 305 m (1,000 ft) above the
ground and can be seen from as far
away as the Blue Mountains 4
82 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Queen Victoria stone from Blarney Castle, Ire-

Building 2 land and a sculpture of Islay,
beloved dog of Queen Victoria.
455 George St. Map 1 B5. Tel 9264 In 1983, a worldwide search
9209. @ George St routes. began for a statue of the queen
# 9am–6pm Mon–Wed, 9am–9pm herself. One was finally found
Thu, 9am–6pm Fri & Sat, 11am–5pm in the village of Daingean,
Sun & public hols. 6 7 8 See Republic of Ireland, where it
Shops and Markets pp198 and 200. had lain forgotten since its
removal from the front of the
French Designer Pierre Irish Parliament in 1947.
Cardin called the Queen Fully restored, the Queen
Victoria Building “the most Victoria Statue stands near the
beautiful shopping centre in wishing well. Inside the QVB,
the world”. Yet this spacious suspended from the ceiling, is
and ornate Romanesque the Royal Clock. Weighing
Entrance to the Marble Bar building, better known as the more than 1 tonne and over
QVB, began life as the 5 m (17 ft) tall, the clock
The Marble Bar 1 Sydney produce market. was designed by Neil
The dust, flies, grime Glasser in 1982. The
488 George St. Map 1 B5. Tel 9265 and shouts as horses upper structure
6026. @ George St routes. # 3pm– struggled with heavy features part of
11pm Mon–Wed, 3pm–midnight loads on the Balmoral Castle
Thu, 3pm–2am Fri, 5pm–2am Sat. slippery ramps are above a copy of
¢ public hols. 6 See Restaurants, now difficult to the four dials of
Cafés and Pubs p197. imagine. Comp- Big Ben. At one
leted to the Roof detail, Queen minute to every
The Marble Bar, originally design of City Victoria Building hour, a fanfare is
part of George Adams’ Architect George played and there
Tattersalls Hotel built in 1893, McRae in 1898, the dominant follows a parade depicting six
is an inspired link with the features are the central dome, scenes from the lives of various
Sydney of an earlier era. The sheathed in copper, as are the kings and queens of England.
bar, whose rich and decadent 20 smaller domes, and the
Italian Renaissance style had glass barrel vault roof which
made it a local institution, was lets in a flood of natural light. State Theatre 3
dismantled before the demoli- The market closed at the end
tion of the hotel in 1969. Its of World War I and the build- 49 Market St. Map 1 B5.
colonnade entrance, fireplaces ing fell into disrepair. It had Tel 9373 6862. @ George St routes.
and counters were re-erected various roles during this time, Box office # 9am– 5:30pm
in the Sydney Hilton basement including that of City Library. Mon–Fri. ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. 7
and reopened in 1973. By the 1950s, after extensive 8 bookings essential.
During the week, the remodelling and neglect, it was www.statetheatre.com.au.
bar attracts a broad range of threatened with demolition.
city workers for after-work Refurbished at a cost of over When it opened in 1929, this
drinks. On Fridays and at $75 million, the QVB reopened picture palace was hailed as
weekends if a band is in 1986 as today’s grand shop- the finest that local crafts-
playing, the bar bustles with ping gallery, housing over 190 manship could achieve. The
a younger crowd who come shops and boutiques on four State Theatre is one of the
to hear the mostly jazz and levels. At the Town Hall end best examples in Australia of
rhythm and blues music. a wishing well incorporates a the architectural fantasies used
to entice people to the movies.
Its Cinema Baroque style is
evident right from the Gothic
foyer, with its vaulted ceiling,
mosaic floor, richly decorated
marble columns and statues.
Inside the brass and bronze
doors, the auditorium, which
seats over 2,000 people, is lit
by a 20,000-piece chandelier.
The Wurlitzer organ (currently
under repair) rises from below
stage just before performances.
Now one of Sydney’s premier
concert and theatre venues, it
is also the main base for the
Sydney Film Festival, held in
The ornately decorated Gothic foyer of the State Theatre June of each year (see p51).
 C I T Y C E N T R E 83

Sydney Tower 4 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The highest observation deck in the southern 100 Market St. Map 1 B5. Tel
hemisphere, the Sydney Tower was conceived as 9333 9222. @ Sydney Explorer,
part of a 1970s shopping centre, but was not all city routes. 4 Darling Harbour.
completed until 1981. About one million visitors a  St James, Town Hall. 
year admire the stunning views, often stretching City Centre. Sydney Tower #
for over 85 km (53 miles). A landmark in itself, it 9am–10:30pm daily. Skywalk
can be seen from almost anywhere in the city, and # 9:30am–8:45pm daily. ¢ 25
far beyond. Visitors can also take a 45-minute Dec. 6 7 8 0 - =
www.sydneytower.com.au
Skywalk tour over the roof of the tower.

The 30-m (98-ft)

spire completes the
total 305 m (1,000 ft)
of the tower’s height.

The water tank

holds 162,000 litres
(35,500 gallons)
and acts as an enor-
mous stabilizer on
very windy days.

Observation Level Skywalk

Views from Level 4 stretch to Pittwater
in the north, Botany Bay to the south, Level 4:
Observation
westwards to the Blue Mountains, and
along the harbour out to the open sea. Level 3:
Coffee shop
Level 2:
Buffet
The turret’s nine levels include restaurant
two restaurants, a café and the
Level 1:
Observation Level.
A la carte
restaurant

The windows comprise three layers. The The 56 cables weigh

outer has a gold dust coating. The frame seven tonnes each. If
design prevents panes falling outwards. laid end to end, they
would reach from New
Zealand to Sydney.
The shaft is designed
to withstand wind
speeds expected only
once in 500 years.

The stairs are two

separate, fireproofed
emergency escape
routes.

Double-decker lifts
can carry up to 2,000
people per hour. At full
speed, a lift takes only
40 seconds to ascend
the 76 floors to the New Year’s Eve
Observation Level. Every year, visitors
Construction of Turret flock to Sydney’s
The nine turret levels were highest observation
OzTrek has a 180-
erected on the roof of the base deck to watch the
degree cinema and
building, then hoisted up the heart-stopping, real- fireworks over the city
shaft using hydraulic jacks. motion seating. and Harbour Bridge.
84 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Strand Arcade 5
412–414 George St. Map 1 B5.
Tel 9232 4199. @ George St
routes. # 9am–5:30pm Mon–Wed
& Fri, 9am–9pm Thu, 9am–4pm Sat,
11am–4pm Sun. ¢ some public
hols, 25, 26 Dec. 7 6 See Shops
and Markets pp198–201.

Victorian Sydney was a city of

grand shopping arcades. The
Strand, joining George and Pitt
Streets and designed by
English architect John Spencer,
was the finest jewel in the city’s
crown. The blaze of publicity
surrounding its opening in
April 1892 was equalled only
by the natural light pouring
through the glass roof and the
artificial glare from the chan-
deliers, each carrying 50 jets
of gas as well as 50 lamps.
The boutiques and shops in
the galleries make window
shopping a delight in this airy Interior of National Australia Bank, George Street end of Martin Place
building which, after a fire in
1976, was restored to its origi- sponsored by the Sydney City funded by public subscription
nal splendour. Be sure to stop, Council, in a performance following a donation by artist
as shoppers have done since space near Castlereagh Street. Lloyd Rees. The sculpture, a
opening day, for refreshments Every Anzac Day, a national tribute to the artist William
at one of the beautiful coffee day of war remembrance on Dobell (see p31), was created
shops in the arcade. 25 April, the focus moves to by Bert Flugelman in 1979.
the Cenotaph at the George
Street end. Thousands of past
and present servicemen and
Lands Department
women attend a dawn service Building 7
and wreath-laying ceremony,
followed by a march-past. The 23 Bridge St. Map 1 B3. @ 325,
shrine, with bronze statues of a George St routes. # only 2 weeks,
soldier and a sailor on a granite dates vary. 7
base, by Bertram MacKennal,
was unveiled in 1929. Designed by the Colonial
On the southern side of the Architect James Barnet, the
Cenotaph is the symmetrical three-storey Classical Revival
façade of the Renaissance- sandstone edifice was built
style General Post Office, between 1877 and 1890.
considered to be the finest As for the GPO building,
building by James Barnet, Pyrmont sandstone was
The Pitt Street entrance to the Colonial Architect. Con- used for the exterior.
majestic Strand Arcade struction of the GPO, as Decisions about the sub-
Sydneysiders call it, took division of much of rural
place between 1866 and eastern Australia were
Martin Place 6 1874, with additions in made in offices within.
Pitt Street between 1881 Statues of explorers and
Map 1 B4. @ George St & Elizabeth and 1885. Most contro- legislators who “pro-
St routes.  Martin Place. versial were the relief moted settlement” fill
figures executed by 23 of the façade’s 48
Running from George Street Tomaso Sani. Although Statue of explorer niches; the remainder
across Pitt, Castlereagh and Barnet declared that Gregory Blaxland are still empty. The
Elizabeth Streets to Macquarie the figures represented luminaries include the
Street, this plaza was opened Australians in realistic form, explorers Hovell and Hume,
in 1891 and made a traffic-free they were labelled “grotesque”. Sir Thomas Mitchell, Blaxland,
precinct in 1971. It is busiest at A stainless steel sculpture Lawson and Wentworth (see
lunchtime when city workers of upended cubes, the Dobell p136), Ludwig Leichhardt, Bass
enjoy their sandwiches while Memorial Sculpture stands and Matthew Flinders and the
watching free entertainment, above a waterfall which was botanist Sir Joseph Banks.
 C I T Y C E N T R E 85

Museum of History of Sydney

Outside the museum, a paving
Sydney 8 pattern outlines the site of first
Cnr Bridge & Phillip Sts. Map 1 B3.
Government House. Original
Tel 9251 5988. @ Circular Quay
foundations, lost under street
routes. # 9:30am–5pm daily. ¢
level for many years, can be
Good Fri, 25 Dec. & - 0 8 6
seen here through a window.
7 www.hht.net.au/museums
Inside the entrance a viewing
floor reveals more foundations.
A segment of wall has been
Situated at the base of Gover- reconstructed using sandstone
nor Phillip Tower, the Museum excavated during archaeologi-
of Sydney is on the site of the cal exploration of the site.
first Government House, the The Colony display on
home, office and seat of The Viewing Cube, Level 3, over- Level 2 focuses on Sydney
authority for the first nine looking the piazza to Circular Quay during the critical decade of
governors of NSW from 1788 the 1840s when convict
until its demolition in 1846. from a contemporary perspec- transportation ended, the
The design assimilates a tive. In the square at the front town officially became a city
valuable archaeological site of the complex, the acclaimed and suffered an economic
into a modern office block. Edge of the Trees sculpture, a depression. There is also a set
The museum itself traces the collection of 29 sandstone, of scale models of the 11 First
city’s turbulent history, from steel and wooden pillars, sym- Fleet ships. The Museum
the 1788 arrival of the British bolizes the first presents stories
colonists until the present day. contact between of the Fleet’s
the Aboriginal journey, arrival,
Indigenous Peoples peoples and Euro- first contacts with
The museum sits on Cadigal peans. Haunting Indigenous
land. A new gallery explores voices in the Eora people and the
the culture, history, continuity tongue fill the survival challenges
and place of Sydney’s original space. Inscribed faced by those
Aboriginal inhabitants, and the in the wood are on board.On
“turning point” of colonization/ signatures of the Level 3, 20th
invasion. Collectors’ chests First Fleeters and The Trade Wall display century Sydney
hold items of daily use such names of botanical on Level 2 is explored with
as flint and ochre, each piece species in both the panoramic images
painstakingly catalogued and indigenous language and of the developing city
evocatively interpreted. Latin. Incisions made in the providing a vivid backdrop.
There are two audio-visual pillars are filled with organic The Museum of Sydney
exhibits which explore the materials such as ash, feathers, has a regular changing
history of indigenous peoples bone, shells and human hair. exhibition program.

Edge of the Trees sculptural installation by Janet Laurence and Fiona Foley (1995)
86 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

sculpted by Bertram
MacKennal, also responsible
for the Martin Place Cenotaph
(see p84) and the Shakespeare
group outside the State Library
(see p112). The crypt’s Celtic-
inspired terrazzo mosaic floor
took 15 years to complete.

Great Synagogue q
187 Elizabeth St, entrance on 166
Castlereagh St. Map 1 B5. Tel 9267
2477. @ 333, 394, 380. #
for services and tours. ¢ public &
Jewish hols. 7 advance notice &
Interior of the 19th-century Great Synagogue 8 www.greatsynagogue.org.au

St Mary’s foundation stone for St Mary’s The longest established

Chapel on the site of today’s Jewish Orthodox congre-
Cathedral 9 cathedral, the first land gran- gation in Australia assembles
St. Mary’s Rd. Map 1 C5. Tel 9220 ted to the Catholic in this synagogue,
0400. @ Elizabeth St routes. Church in Australia. consecrated in 1878.
# 6:30am–6pm Mon–Fri, 6:30am– The initial section of Although Jews had
7pm Sat–Sun. 7 with advance the Gothic Revival arrived with the First
notice. 8 noon Sun. www.sydney. style cathedral was Fleet, worship did not
catholic.org.au opened in 1882. In 1928, begin until the 1820s.
the building was completed, With its carved entrance
Although Catholics arrived but without the twin columns and magnificent
with the First Fleet, the southern spires proposed stained-glass windows,
celebration of Mass was at first by the architect, William the synagogue is perhaps
prohibited in case the priests Wardell. By the entrance the finest work
provoked civil strife among steps are statues of Candelabra of Thomas Rowe, the
the colony’s large Irish Catholic Australia’s first from the Great architect of Sydney
population. The first priests cardinal, Moran, and Synagogue Hospital (see p113).
were appointed in 1820 and Archbishop Kelly who The panelled ceiling is
services allowed. In 1821, laid the stone for the final decorated with hundreds of
Governor Macquarie laid the stage in 1913. They were tiny gold leaf stars.

Hyde Park 0 porated a racecourse and a

cricket pitch. Though much
Map 1 B5. @ Elizabeth St routes. smaller today than the original
park, it still provides a peace-
Fenced and named after its ful haven in the middle of the
London equivalent by bustling city centre.
Governor Macquarie in 1810,
Hyde Park marked the out- Anzac Memorial
skirts of the township. It was The 30-m (98-ft) high Art
a popular exercise field for Deco memorial, reflected in the Diana, goddess of purity and the
garrison troops and later incor- poplar-lined Pool of Remem- chase, Archibald Fountain
brance, commemorates those
Australians who were killed Archibald Fountain
at war in the service of their This bronze and granite foun-
country. Opened in 1934, the tain commemorates the French
Anzac Memorial now includes and Australian World War I
a photographic and military alliance. It was completed by
artifact exhibition downstairs. François Sicard in 1932 and
donated by JF Archibald, one
Sandringham Garden of the founders of the Bulletin,
In spring, the pergola in this a popular literary magazine
sunken garden is a cascade of which encouraged the work
mauve-flowering wisteria. The of Henry Lawson and “Banjo”
garden, a memorial to the Paterson, among many others.
English kings George V and It was Archibald’s bequest that
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in George VI, was opened by established the Archibald Prize
the Art Deco Anzac Memorial Queen Elizabeth II in 1954. for portraiture (see p50).
 C I T Y C E N T R E 87

died during its construction, as St Andrew’s

did several of the architects
who followed. The vestibule –
Cathedral e
an elegant salon with intricate Sydney Square, Cnr George &
plasterwork, lavish stained Bathurst Sts. Map 4 E3. Tel 9265
glass and a crystal chandelier – 1661. @ George St routes. #
is the work of Albert Bond. Contact the cathedral for opening
The Bradbridge brothers hours and tour times. 6 7 8
completed the clock tower in www.cathedral.sydney.anglican.
1884. From 1888–9, other asn.au
architects were used for the
Centennial Hall, with its
coffered zinc ceiling and the While the foundation stone or
imposing 19th-century Grand the country’s oldest cathedral
Organ with over 8,500 pipes. was laid in 1819, almost 50
On the façade, you will see years elapsed before the
The Grand Organ in Sydney Town numerous carved lion heads. building was consecrated in
Hall’s Centennial Hall Just to the north of the main 1868. The Gothic Revival
entrance, facing George Street, design is by Edmund Blacket,
a lion has been whose ashes are
Sydney Town carved with one interred here.
Hall w eye shut. This Inspired by York
oddity appeared Minster in
483 George St. Map 4 E2. because of the England, the
Tel 9265 9333. @ George St head stonema- twin towers
routes. # 8:30am–6pm Mon–Fri. son’s habit of were completed
¢ public hols. 7 8 www. checking the line in 1874. In 1949,
cityofsydneyvenues.com.au of the stonework The Great Bible, the main entrance
by closing one eye. St Andrew’s Cathedral was moved to the
The steps of this sandstone The sly joke was not eastern end near
building, central to George found until work was finished. George Street. Inside are
Street’s Victorian architecture, Some people have conclud- memorials to Sydney pioneers,
have been a favourite Sydney ed that Sydney Town Hall including Thomas Mort (see
meeting place since it opened became the city’s most elabo- p72), as well as a collection of
in 1869. Walled burial grounds rate building by accident, as religious memorabilia.
had originally covered the site. each architect strove to outdo The southern wall incorpor-
It is a fine example of high similar buildings in Manchester ates stones from London’s St
Victorian architecture. The and Liverpool. Today, it makes Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster
original architect, JH Wilson, a magnificent event venue. Abbey and the House of Lords.

Obelisk ran through the park, and after John Busby, a civil engineer,
This monument was dubbed the rail system was opened in conceived and supervised the
“Thornton’s Scent Bottle” after 1926 the entire area had to be construction of the 4.4-km (2¾-
the mayor of Sydney who had remodelled and replanted. mile) tunnel. It carried water
it erected in 1857. The mock- from bores on Lachlan Swamp,
Egyptian edifice is in fact a Busby’s Bore Fountain now within Centennial Park
ventilator for a sewer. This is a reminder of Busby’s (see p127), to horse-drawn
Bore, the city’s first piped water carriers on the corner
Emden Gun water supply opened in 1837. of Elizabeth and Park Streets.
Standing at the corner of
College and Liverpool Streets,
this monument commemorates
a World War I naval action.
HMAS Sydney destroyed the
German raider Emden off the
Cocos Islands on 9 November
1914, and 180 crew members
were taken prisoner.

City Circle Railway

The park we see today bears
very little resemblance to the
Hyde Park of old. In fact, the
dictates of city railway tunnels
have largely created its present
landscape. Tunnels were exca-
vated through an open cut that Game in progress on the giant chessboard, near Busby’s Bore Fountain
88 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Australian Museum r

The Australian Museum, the

nation’s leading natural science
museum, founded in 1827, was the
first museum established and remains
the premier showcase of Australian
Model head of natural history. The main building,
Tyrannosaurus rex
an impressive sandstone structure
with a marble staircase, faces Hyde
Park. Architect Mortimer Lewis was forced to resign
his position when building costs began to far exceed
the budget. Construction was completed in the 1860s
by James Barnet. The collection provides a journey Museum Entrance
across Australia and the near Pacific, covering The façade features massive
biology and both natural and cultural history. Corinthian square
Australian Aboriginal traditions are celebrated in a pillars or piers.
community access space also used for dance and
other performances.

Planet of Minerals
This section features a walk-
through re-creation of an
underground mine with
a display of gems
Rhodochrosite Cuprite
and minerals.

Mesolite with green Education

apophyllite Centre

. Indigenous Australians
From the Dreaming to the struggle for self-
determination and land rights, this exhibit
tells the stories of Australia’s first peoples.
Ground
floor

MUSEUM GUIDE
STAR EXHIBITS The Indigenous Australians Main
Gallery is on the ground entrance
. Indigenous floor, as is the skeleton
Australians gallery. Mineral and rock
The Skeletons
exhibits are in two galleries
Gallery, on the ground
. Kidspace on level 1. Birds and Insects
floor, provides a
are found on level 2, along
different perspective
. Search & Discover with Kidspace, Surviving
on natural history.
Australia and Dinosaurs.
 C I T Y C E N T R E 89

. Search & Discover VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sydneysiders bring bugs,
rocks and bones to this 6 College St. Map 4 F3.
area for identification. Tel 9320 6000. @ Sydney
Explorer, 323, 324, 325, 327,
The public can also access
389.  Museum, Town Hall.
an online research facility. # 9:30am–5pm daily. ¢ 25
Dec. & 6 7 8 0 - =
Level 2 www.australianmuseum.net.au

Surviving Australia
This exhibit explores wild Australia,
including this venemous Speckled
Brown Snake as well as sharks, croco-
diles and other dangerous animals.

Dinosaurs: with
Level 1
this exhibition
discover the 200-
million-year story
of dinosaurs.

Birds and Insects

Australia’s most poisonous . Kidspace
spider, the male of the funnel- This mini museum is designed especially for
web species, dwells exclusively children aged five and under to investigate
in the Greater Sydney region. the natural world.

KEY TO FLOORPLAN
Australian Environments
“WELCOME STRANGER” GOLD NUGGET CAST
In 1869, the largest gold nugget
Kidspace ever found in Australia was
Surviving Australia discovered in Victoria. It
weighed 71.06 kg (156 lb).
Indigenous Australians The museum holds a cast
Temporary exhibition space of the original in a display
examining the impact of
Non-exhibition space the gold rush, when the
Planet of Minerals Australian population doubled
in ten years. 67.5 cm (26 ⁄ in) wide
1
2
Birds and Insects
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 91

DARLING HARBOUR
N amed in honour of the
seventh governor of New
South Wales, Ralph Darling,
this area was originally called
Cockle Bay because of the mol-
Harbour continued as, first, a grimy
workplace and, later, with the
industrial decline of Sydney
Harbour, an obsolete and run-
down backwater. In the 1980s,
luscs early European settlers it was decided to make this
collected here. Darling Harbour prime city site a focal point
was an unsavoury place in the late of the 1988 Bicentenary. The
19th century, known for its Horatio Nelson, National project was the largest urban
Maritime Museum
thieves’ dens and bawdy redevelopment ever carried
houses. Its docks, backed by a railway out in Australia. Today Darling Harbour
yard, were an embarkation point for is an extension of the city centre with
wool and other exports. The country’s a mixture of fine museums, shopping
industrial age began here in 1815 with and open space. It has become a
the opening of a steam mill. Darling popular and lively area of Sydney.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Districts and Museums and Galleries Entertainment
Buildings Australian National Maritime Sydney Aquarium p96 2
Pyrmont Bridge 4 Museum pp94–5 1 Sydney Wildlife World p97 3
Chinatown 8 Powerhouse Museum Convention and Exhibition
King Street Wharf 5 pp100–1 q Centre 6

Parks and Gardens Theatres

Chinese Garden 7 Capitol Theatre 9

Markets
Paddy’s Markets 0
1:3.0/5

#":
1"3,
GETTING THERE
4 6

Harbourside, Convention
4 4

1ZSNPOU and Paddy’s Markets monorail

& 9

#BZ
stations are convenient.

%BSMJOH
Ferries run to Darling Harbour

1BSL
)BSCPVSTJEF
wharf, while the most useful
4 5
%"

3 &

$PDLMF
buses are the Sydney

3 - * / (

& 5

#BZ Explorer, 456 and 501.

1
:
3

.
)

0
"

#"5)6345
45
3

)
3

$POWFOUJPO "
*

3



4

#0

6

3

- *7&3100 -
45

4

4 6
453&&5

5

3

8PSME
4 4

&
4

&

4RVBSF
3

& 9
5

0
3

&YIJCJUJPO
"

&

3&&5


453&&5
(06-#63/




&

ç4 5


5

ç 453&&5

KEY
453&&5

3

4 5

1*&
3 &

Street-by-Street map
& 5

See pp92–3
) ":




4 5 3 & & 5
1BEEZhT $BQJUPM
&-*;"#&5

CityRail station .BSLFUT 4RVBSF

(&03(&

5

% #&-.03&

)

"
1*5

Monorail station 0 1"3,

"

3



)
453&&5

3

3

0
Metro Light Rail (MLR)
*

*. &%
4

-5 %:

6
" 7

&/
6&

Bus terminus

3"*-8":



4

426"3&
Coach station


5

&&5

$FOUSBM
3

":

3BJMXBZ
453
&

Ferry boarding point

&

4UBUJPO
"%
5

453&&5

4

0
#3
$)"-.&3

0 metres 250
RiverCat
3&
(&

boarding point
/5

-&&


45

0 yards 250
3&
&5

View from Harbourside Shopping Centre looking east towards the city
 92 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Darling Harbour

Darling Harbour was New South Wales’
bicentennial gift to itself. This imaginative
urban redevelopment, in the heart of
Sydney, covers a 54-ha (133-acre) site
Carpentaria lightship, that was once a busy industrial centre
National Maritime Museum
and international shipping terminal
catering for the developing local wool, grain, timber and
coal trades. In 1984 the Darling Harbour Authority was
formed to examine the area’s commercial options. The
resulting complex opened in 1988, complete with the
Australian National Maritime Museum and Sydney
Aquarium, two of the city’s tourist highlights. Free out- Harbourside Complex offers
door entertainment, for children in particular, is a regular restaurants and cafés with superb
feature, and there are many shops, cafés and restaurants, views over the water to the city
as well as several major hotels overlooking the bay. skyline. There is also a wide
range of speciality shops, selling
unusual gifts and other items.

E
DRIV
LING
DAR
Convention and Exhibition Centre
This complex presents an alternating
range of trade shows displaying every-
thing from home decorating
suggestions to bridal wear 6
W
DI

ES
ST

TE
W

RI
ES

RN
BU
TE

TO
RN

R
DI
ST

The Tidal Cascades sunken

RI

IMAX large-
BU

fountain was designed by Robert screen cinema

TO

Woodward, also responsible for

R

Chinese Garden of
the El Alamein Fountain (see Friendship
p120). The double spiral of water
and paths replicates the circular
The Chinese Garden
shape of the Convention Centre.
of Friendship is a
haven of peace and
tranquillity in the
STAR SIGHTS heart of Sydney. Its
landscaping, with
. Australian National winding pathways,
Maritime Museum waterfalls, lakes and
pavilions, offers an
. Sydney Aquarium insight into the rich
culture of China.
 D A R L I N G H A R B O U R 93

Pyrmont Bridge CITY

CENTRE
The swingspan bridge
opens for vessels up DARLING
to 14 m (46 ft) tall. HARBOUR

The monorail track

running above the
walkway also opens
LOCATOR MAP
up to allow access for
See Street Finder, maps 3 & 4
even taller boats 4

Swingspan supports
for Pyrmont Bridge are
sunk 10 m (33 ft) below
the harbour floor.

Star City Casino

. Australian National
Maritime Museum
The seafaring history of the
nation is recorded in a range
of compelling exhibits 1

The HMAS Vampire

destroyer (1959) is
the largest in the
vessel fleet
moored outside
the museum.

Sydney Wildlife World

King Street
Wharf

Wharf for
harbour . Sydney Aquarium
cruise
departures The aquatic life of Sydney Harbour, the
open ocean and the Great Barrier Reef
is displayed in massive tanks which can
be seen from underwater walkways 2

0 metres 100

0 yards 100
Cockle Bay Wharf is vibrant
and colourful, and an KEY
exciting food and enter-
Suggested route
tainment precinct.
94 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Australian National Maritime Museum 1

Bounded as it is by the sea,

Australia’s history is inextricably
linked to maritime traditions. The
museum displays material in a broad
range of permanent and temporary
thematic exhibits, many with inter-
1602 Willem active elements. As well as artifacts
Blaeu Celestial relating to the enduring Aboriginal
Globe
maritime cultures, the exhibits
survey the history of European exploratory voy-
ages in the Pacific, the arrival of convict ships, Museum Façade
successive waves of migration, water sports and The billowing steel roof design
recreation, and naval life. Historic vessels on show by Philip Cox suggests both
at the wharf include a flimsy Vietnamese refugee the surging sea and
boat, sailing, fishing and pearling boats, a navy the sails of a ship.
patrol boat and a World War II commando raider.

Eora – First People

traces the seafaring
traditions of Aboriginal
peoples and Torres Strait
Islanders.

The Tasman
Light was used
in a Tasmanian
lighthouse.

Passengers
The model of the Orcades reflects the
grace of 1950s liners. This display
also charts harrowing sea voyages
made by migrants and refugees.

The Sirius
anchor is from a
1790 wreck off
Norfolk Island.

. Navigators Main entrance

(sea level)
This 1754 engraving of an
East Indian sea creature is a
European vision of the un- KEY TO FLOORPLAN The Navy exhibit
charted, exotic “great south”. Navigators and Eora – First People examines naval life
in war and peace,
Passengers as well as the history
STAR EXHIBITS Commerce of colonial navies.
. HMAS Vampire Watermarks

Navy
. Navigators and Eora – Linked by the Sea honours
First People Linked by the Sea: USA Gallery enduring links between the
US and Australia. American
Temporary exhibitions
. Watermarks traders stopped off in Aust-
Non-exhibition space ralia on their way to China.
 D A R L I N G H A R B O U R 95

Commerce VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This 1903 Painters’
and Dockers’ Union Darling Harbour. Map 3 C2.
banner was carried Tel 9298 3777. @ 443, 888,
Sydney Explorer.  Town Hall.
by waterfront
 Harbourside. # 9:30am–
workers in marches. 5pm daily. ¢ 25 Dec. &
It shows the Niagara (special exhibitions, submarine,
entering the dry dock Endeavour & destroyer). 6 7
at Cockatoo Island 8 - = www.anmm.gov.au
(see p106).

. Watermarks
This 1960s poster for Bondi
Level 1 beach is part of the museum’s
Watermarks – adventure, sport and
play exhibition. The displays,
including fully-rigged boats and
profiles of world champion scullers
and swimmers, celebrate Australia’s
love affair with the water.
Gallery
One

A replica of Captain
Cook’s Endeavour
is based at the
museum.

Lighthouse
Sailors were guided by
this 1874 lighthouse for
over a century. It was
HMAS Onslow rebuilt complete with
an Oberon-class original kerosene lamp.
submarine.
. HMAS Vampire
The museum’s largest vessel MUSEUM GUIDE
is the 1959 Royal Australian The Watermarks, Navy and Linked
by the Sea: USA Gallery exhibits
Navy destroyer, whose
are located on the main entrance
insignia is shown here. level (sea level). The Eora – First
Tours of “The Bat” are People, Navigators, Passengers and
accompanied by simu- Commerce sections are found on
lated battle action sounds. the first level.
96 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Sydney Aquarium 2 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sydney Aquarium contains the largest, most Aquarium Pier, Darling Harbour.
Map 4 D2. Tel 8251 7800. @
comprehensive collection of Australian
Sydney Explorer. g Darling Har-
aquatic wildlife, with over 12,000 ani- bour.  Town Hall.  Darling
mals from 650 species. Both freshwater Park. # 9am–10pm daily (last
Tropical and marine exhibits simulate the animals’
sea star adm 9pm). & 6 7 - =
natural environments. For many visitors, www.sydneyaquarium.com.au
the highlight is a walk “on the ocean floor” through the
floating oceanarium with 165 m (480 ft) of acrylic under- to be held in captivity. These
water tunnels. These allow close observation of sharks, docile, herbivorous mammals
stingrays and schools of fish. None of the displays is can reach up to 3 m (9.8 ft) in
harmful to the creatures, and many of the tanks display length and live for more than
practical information about environmental hazards. 70 years. Named “Pig” and
“Wuru” (an Aboriginal word
meaning “young child”), the
ATTRACTIONS dugongs were originally
rescued as orphaned calves.
Sydney Aquarium
offers a great Touch Pools
variety of exhibits There are two touch pools in
and animal the aquarium, giving the visitor
encounters. the rare chance to touch, with
care, marine life found along
Platypuses the coastline. They include
Endemic to the sea urchins, tubeworms, crabs
rivers, streams, and sea stars.
bilabongs and lakes
of the east coast and Open Ocean Oceanarium
Exploring the Tropical Touch Pool Tasmania, the Through an underwater
platypus is an iconic tunnel, visitors can encounter
EXPLORING SYDNEY symbol of Australia. When huge stingrays, shoals of fish
AQUARIUM discovered by Europeans, the as well as the largest sharks
animal’s strange collection of on display in the aquarium –
Built on a pier in Darling physical attributes, including the grey nurse shark.
Harbour, Sydney Aquarium a duck-like bill and otter’s tail,
comprises over 4,000 sq m were once thought to be Great Barrier Reef
(43,000 sq ft) of exhibition some kind of elaborate hoax. Oceanarium
space and is one of the largest The world’s largest coral reef
aquarium’s in the world. Saltwater Crocodiles extends along 2,300 km
Exhibits are organised by The largest and most (1,430 miles) of Australia’s
theme and take the visitor on dangerous species of coast. Vibrant tangs, angelfish
a journey through the different crocodile, “salties” live in the and spiny lionfish are on
marine habitats of the swamps and estuaries of display as well as tropical
Australian continent. On Australia’s north. sharks and rays. At the end of
entering, visitors are led the oceanarium, the floor-to-
through the Northern Rivers Mermaid Lagoon ceiling Reef Theatre glass
and Southern Rivers sections, An exciting addition to the panel offers an unparralleled
featuring animals such as aquarium in 2008 were two of spectacle of the colourful,
platypuses and crocodiles, only six dugongs (sea cows) exotic creatures.
before reaching the Southern
Oceans and Northern Oceans
areas where the oceanariums
and touch pools can be found.
It is worth checking the
website to coincide a visit with
one of the feeding times. There
are also “tank talks” (1:30pm
daily) when a trained diver can
be asked questions while they
are feeding sharks in the Great
Barrier Reef Oceanarium. Also,
for an added cost, visitors can
ride out on a glass-bottom
“Shark Explorer” boat to
watch and feed the sharks
first hand (11am daily). Sharks and hundreds of other fish on view from the Reef Theatre
 D A R L I N G H A R B O U R 97

Sydney Wildlife World 3 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sydney Wildlife World contains over Aquarium Pier, Darling Harbour.

Map 4 D2. Tel 8251 7800. @
100 Australian land-dwelling species,
Sydney Explorer. g Darling Har-
including insects, birds, snakes, reptiles bour.  Town Hall.  Darling
King parrot and mammals. Together with the Sydney Park. # 9am–5:30pm daily (last
Aquarium the complex comprises the adm 5pm). & 6 7 8 - =
world’s largest collection of native Australian animal www.sydneywildlifeworld.com.
species to be housed in one location. In the heart of au
Darling Harbour, the undulating see-through mesh roof is
a sight to behold in itself. Although compact in size, the Southern Cassowary. Around
zoo contains nine different temperature- and humidity- half of the bird species of
controlled habitats, and the experience is enhanced by Australia are found nowhere
soundscapes, graphics and interactive models. else in the world.

Invertebrates
This habitat contains all kinds
of creepy crawlies such as the
carnivorous praying mantis,
the giant rhinoceros
cockroach and the world’s
most dangerous spider – the
Sydney funnel-web.

Koala Sanctuary – Rooftop

Encounters
A raised walkway under the
open-air mesh roof winds
through the koala and
wallaby habitats and allows
visitors to get closer to these
The distinctive construction of Sydney Wildlife World and Sydney Aquarium cuddly, iconic animals and
even have a photo taken with
EXPLORING SYDNEY Butterflies them. The koala’s diet of
WILDLIFE WORLD The two-storey butterfly eucalyptus leaves is so low in
house contains such nutrients, it has to conserve
There are joint tickets spectacular species as the energy by moving slowly and
available for Sydney Wildlife Zebra, Blue Triangle and sleeping a lot.
World and Sydney Aquarium Ulysses buttterflies, the latter
and both sites can be visited with its huge 14-cm (5.5-in) Yellow-Footed Rock Wallaby
in one day. wingspan. During guided Bounding about on
Exhibits are laid out over tours visitors get to rocks in the Wallaby
three floors with one kilometre gently hold the Cliff habitat, this
(0.6 miles) of enclosed butterflies. stripy-tailed wallaby
walkways to follow. The is perhaps the most
habitats are climate controlled Frilled-Neck Lizard attractive of the
and visitors largely view the Native to the dry kangaroo species. So
animals through floor-to- landscape of the much so it used to
ceiling viewing panels. Kimberley in north be hunted for its
Throughout the day there Western Australia, this beautiful fur. Its
are feeds and talks given by bizarre-looking huge feet have
the keepers when visitors get lizard flares the strong muscles and a
the chance to get closer and folds of skin around brush of stiff hairs to
sometimes hold or touch the its neck when help it get around over
animals, under supervision. feeling threatened or Koala rocky terrain.
Another good option is to scared. It will also hiss
book a group or “VIP” guided and lunge to ward off Southern Cassowary
tour led by a qualified predators. It used to feature This distinctive blue-necked
Aquarium guide. on the Australian 2c coin. bird, a close relation of the
emu, is considered the most
ATTRACTIONS Flight Canyon dangerous bird in the world. It
This large open-air aviary is has powerful talons and one
Sydney Wildlife World contains filled with colourful birds, spear-like inner claw which
nine habitats housing the such as the vibrant King can reach up to 12 cm (4.7 in)
intriguing – and often unique Parrot and Rainbow Lorikeet. in length. This flightless bird is
– species that are native to There are also ground capable of killing dogs and
the Australian continent. dwelling birds such as the even humans if provoked.
98 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Pyrmont Bridge 4
Darling Harbour. Map 1 A5.
 Darling Park, Harbourside.
678

Pyrmont Bridge opened in

1902. The world’s oldest
electrically operated swingspan
bridge, it was fully functional
before Sydney’s streets were
lit by electricity. It was the
second Pyrmont Bridge and
provided access to what, at
the time, was a busy interna-
tional shipping terminal with The architectural geometry of the Convention and Exhibition Centre
warehouses and wool stores.
Electricity for the new bridge central steel swingspans are Convention and
came from the Ultimo power still driven by their original
station, the building that now motor. The bridge is opened Exhibition Centre 6
houses the city’s Powerhouse regularly to allow boats access
Museum (see pp100–101). to and from Cockle Bay. Darling Drive, Darling Harbour. Map
Percy Allan, the bridge’s 3 C3. Tel 9282 5000.  Conven-
designer, achieved overseas tion. # daily (check in advance). 6
recognition for his two central - 7 www.darlingharbour.com
steel swingspans and went on
to design 583 more bridges in This purpose-built facility was
the course of his career. JJ completed in 1988. Major
Bradfield, the designer of the conventions are held in the
Sydney Harbour Bridge (see main auditorium. For trade
pp70–71), was also involved shows and exhibitions, the
in construction of this bridge. Exhibition Centre’s five halls
The 369-m (1,200-ft) long can be combined to form a
Pyrmont Bridge has 14 spans, column-free area the size of
with only the two central five sports fields. The roof is
swingspans being made of Night lights at King Street Wharf, supported by a system of sail-
steel. The remaining spans Darling Harbour like masts and rigging, which
are made of ironbark, an reflects the maritime history
Australian hardwood timber. King Street of Darling Harbour. Works of
The bridge was permanently art by such noted Australian
closed to road traffic in 1981, Wharf 5 artists as Brett Whiteley and
but reopened to pedestrians John Olsen hang within.
when the Darling Harbour Lime St, between King and Erskine
complex opened in 1988. A sts. Map 4 D1.  Darling Park. Δ
portion of the monorail route 0 - = 7 www.ksw.com.au Chinese Garden 7
travels along the bridge. The
Journalists from nearby Darling Harbour. Map 4 D3. Tel 9240
newspaper offices and city 8888.  Paddy’s Markets. #
workers flock to this 9:30am–5:30pm (to 5pm winter) daily.
harbourside venue, which ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 6 - 7
combines an aggressively limited. www.chinesegardens.com.au
modern glass and steel shrine
to café society with a working Known as the Garden of
wharf. Passengers arrive and Friendship, the Chinese
depart in style on ferries, Garden was built in 1984. It is
water taxis and rivercats. a tranquil refuge from the city
The complex is flush with streets. The garden’s design
bars that vie for the best was a gift to Sydney from its
views, and restaurants includ- Chinese sister city of Guang-
ing Thai, Japanese, Italian and dong. The Dragon Wall is in
Modern Australian. Midway the lower section beside the
along the wharf is a boutique lake. It has glazed carvings of
brewery that caters for those two dragons, one representing
who revere the best kind of Guangdong province and the
cleansing ales. There are other the state of New South
residents here as well in low- Wales. In the centre of the wall,
The view from Pyrmont Bridge rise apartments set back from a carved pearl, symbolizing
looking up towards the city centre the water on the city side. prosperity, is lifted by the
 D A R L I N G H A R B O U R 99

waves. The lake is covered outdoor theatre, which were

with lotus and water lilies for in turn replaced by a circus
much of the year and a rock with a floodable ring. The
monster guards against evil. present building was erected in
On the other side of the lake the 1920s as a luxurious picture
is the Twin Pavilion. Waratahs palace. In the mid-1990s, the
(New South Wales’s floral sym- cinema was restored, in keep-
bol) and flowering apricots ing with the original theme of
are carved into its woodwork, a Florentine Garden.
and also grow at its base. Chinatown entrance, Dixon Street The Capitol reopened as a
A tea house, found at the top lyric theatre with productions
of the stairs in the Tea House spruced up, with street lanterns being staged beneath its
Courtyard, serves traditional and archways, and a new wave Mediterranean-blue ceiling
Chinese tea and cakes. of Asian migrants fills the studded with twinkling stars
now up-market restaurants. reflecting the southern sky.
Chinatown is a distinctive
Chinatown 8 area with greengrocers,
traditional herbalists and
Dixon St Plaza, Sydney. Map 4 D4. butchers’ shops with wind-
 Paddy’s Markets. dried ducks hanging in their
windows. Jewellers, clothing
Originally concentrated shops and confectioners
around Dixon and Hay fill the arcades. There are
Streets, Chinatown is expan- also two Chinese-language
ding to fill Sydney’s Haymarket cinema complexes.
area, stretching west to Harris The lavishly renovated Capitol
Street, south to Broadway and Theatre in Chinatown
east to Castlereagh Street. It is Capitol Theatre 9
close to the Sydney Entertain-
ment Centre, where some of 13 Campbell St, Haymarket. Map 4 E4. Paddy’s Markets 0
the world’s best-known rock Tel 9320 5000. @ George St routes.
and pop stars perform and # performances only. Box office Cnr Thomas & Hay sts, Haymarket.
indoor sporting events are held. # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 7 www. Map 4 D4. Tel 1300 361 589. 
For years, Chinatown was a capitoltheatre.com.au Paddy’s Markets. # 9am–5pm Thu–
run-down district at the edge Sun & public hols. ¢ 25 Apr, 25 Dec.
of the city’s produce markets In the mid-1800s a cattle and 6 7 See also Shops and Markets
where many Chinese migrants corn market was situated p203. www.paddysmarkets.com.au
worked. Today Dixon Street, here. It became Paddy’s Market
its main thoroughfare, has been Bazaar with sideshows and an Haymarket, in Chinatown, is
home to Paddy’s Markets,
Sydney’s oldest market. It has
been in this area, on a number
of sites, since 1869 (with only
one five-year absence). The
name’s origin is uncertain, but
is believed to have come
from either the Chinese who
originally supplied much of
its produce, or the Irish, their
main customers.
Once the shopping centre for
the inner-city poor, Paddy’s
Markets is now an integral part
of an ambitious development
including residential apart-
ments and the Market City
Shopping Centre, with fashion
outlet stores, an Asian food
court and a cinema complex.
However, the familiar clamour
and chaotic bargain-hunting
atmosphere of the original
marketplace remain. Every
weekend the market has up
to 800 stalls selling everything
from fresh produce to
chickens, puppies, electrical
Pavilion in the grounds of the Chinese Garden products and leather goods.
100 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Powerhouse Museum q

This former Power Station, completed in 1902 to

provide power for Sydney’s tramway system,
was redesigned to cater for the needs of a
modern, hands-on museum. Revamped, the
Powerhouse opened in 1988. The early
collection was held in the Garden Palace
hosting the 1879 international exhibition of
invention and industry from around the
Silver cricket world (see pp26–7). Few exhibits survived
trophy the devastating 1882 fire, and today’s huge
and ever-expanding holdings were gathered after this
disaster. The buildings’ monumental scale provides an
ideal context for the epic sweep of ideas encompassed Sokol KV-2 spacesuit
within: everything from the realm of space and technol- The Space exhibition has all
ogy to the decorative and domestic arts. The museum kinds of space equipment and
emphasizes Australian innovations and achievements, various displays, such as the
celebrating both the extraordinary and the everyday. unique “zero g” experience.

Level 2

SoundHouse Vectorlab
The Vectorlab houses digital media studios where
visitors can create their own music and images.

Cyberworlds: Computers
and Connections
This display explores the past,
present and future of
computers. Pictured here
are Japanese tin toy robots.

MUSEUM GUIDE
The museum is two buildings:
the former powerhouse and the
Neville Wran building. There
are over 20 exhibitions on four KEY TO FLOORPLAN
levels, descending from Level 4. Level 4: Indigenous
The shop, entrance and main
Level 3: Inspired! Design
exhibits are on Level 3. Level 2 Across Time
has thematic exhibits. Level 1
has experiments and displays Level 2: Social History & Design
on space, computers, sound Level 1: Science & Technology
technology and transport. Level 1
Non-exhibition space
 D A R L I N G H A R B O U R 101

Super Elevated Gillies VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

These shoes by Vivienne
Westwood (1993–4) are 500 Harris St, Ultimo.
part of the Inspired! Map 4 D4. Tel 9217 0111.
Design Across Time @ 501. g Darling Harbour.
exhibition, featuring  Central.  Powerhouse.
designers from the #10am–5pm daily. ¢ 25 Dec.
1700s to the present. &780 -=
www.powerhousemuseum.com

Level 4

. Boulton & Watt Engine

The oldest surviving rotative
steam engine in the world, it
powered a London brewery for
102 years from 1875. It is
regularly put into operation in
the museum.

Level 3

The Neville Wran

Building, a 1980s
addition, is based on
the design of grand
exhibition halls and
railway stations of
the 19th century.

. Interactive Displays
More than 100 interac-
tive units engage visitors
in play while teaching
them about technology.
Main
entrance

STAR EXHIBITS
. Locomotive No. 1 . Boulton & Watt
Robert Stephenson built this locomo- Engine
tive in England in 1854. It hauled
the first train in New South Wales . Interactive Displays
in 1855. Using models and voices,
the display re-creates a 19th-century . Locomotive No. 1
day trip for a group of Sydneysiders.
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 103

BOTANIC GARDENS
AND THE DOMAIN
T his tranquil part of Sydney
can seem a world away
from the bustle of the city
centre. It is rich in the remnants
of Sydney’s convict and colonial
open, grassy space, was originally
set aside by the colony’s first
governor for his private use.
Today it is a democratic place
with joggers and touch foot-
past: the site of the first farm, and ballers sidestepping picnickers.
the boulevard-like Macquarie In January, during the Festival of
Street where the barracks, hos- Sydney, it hosts outdoor concerts
pital, church and mint – bastions with thousands of people enjoying
of civic power – are among the fine music. The Botanic Gardens,
Wooden angel,
oldest surviving public build- St James Church which with The Domain was
ings in Australia. This street the site of Australia’s first park,
continues to assert its dominance today is a haven where visitors can stroll
as the home of the state government around and enjoy the extensive
of New South Wales. The Domain, an collection of native and exotic flora.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Streets and Buildings Islands
Conservatorium of Music 2 Fort Denison 5
Government House 3
Woolloomooloo Finger Monuments
Wharf 6 Mrs Macquaries Chair 4
State Library of NSW 9 Parks and Gardens
Parliament House 0 Royal Botanic Gardens
Sydney Hospital q pp104–5 1
The Mint w The Domain 8
Hyde Park Barracks e

Museums and Galleries

Art Gallery of New South
Wales pp108–11 7
4:%/&:

)"3#0

Churches .34
63
56//

St James’ Church r ."$26"3*&4

10*/5
&-

%

'BSN
$PWF
"
0

GETTING THERE
3

Visit on foot, if possible. St

4

*&

James and Martin Place train

3


6"
%
"

stations are close to most of

30

$2
"

the sights. The 311 bus from

.
$" )*-

30:"-
#05"/*$



&4

Circular Quay runs near the

453&&5

3*

4

-
&9

("3%&/4
"

Art Gallery of NSW and past

.3
13

6
$2
&4

8
the Woolloomooloo Finger
4

":
"

.

Wharf. The Sydney Explorer

4

also stops at several sights.

3
.
30"%

0 metres 500
."$26"3*&

0 yards 500
)041*5"-

.BSUJO 5)&



%

1MBDF
"

%0."*/
0

3
KEY

:
3
&
--
Royal Botanic Gardens
5

26&&/4
"
&/

(
See pp104–5 426"3&
4$

3&

$
5

(
3

CityRail station
"

4U
+BNFT
6
0

:
/
)
+0
3

4*

Succulents and cacti from the Succulent Garden in the Royal Botanic Gardens
104 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Royal Botanic Gardens 1

The Royal Botanic Gardens, an oasis of 30 ha

(74 acres) in the heart of the city, occupy a
superb position, wrapped around Farm Cove
at the harbour’s edge. Established in 1816 as a BOTANIC
GARDENS AND
series of pathways through shrubbery, they are CITY
THE DOMAIN

the oldest scientific institution in the country CENTRE KINGS

Statue in the CROSS AND
Botanic Gardens
and house an outstanding collection of plants DARLINGHURST

from Australia and overseas. A living museum,

LOCATOR MAP
the gardens are also the site of the first farm in the fledgling See Street Finder, maps 1 & 2
colony. Fountains, statues and monuments are today
scattered throughout. Plant specimens collected Government
by Joseph Banks on Captain James Cook’s epic House (1897)
voyage along the east coast of Australia in
1770 are displayed in the National Herb-
arium of New South Wales, an important
centre for research on Australian plants.

. Palm Grove
Begun in 1862, this cool summer haven
is one of the world’s finest outdoor col-
lections of palms. There are about 180
species. Borders planted with kaffir lilies
make a colourful display in springtime.

. Herb Garden
Herbs from around the world . Sydney Tropical Centre
used for a wide variety of pur- Two glasshouses contain trop-
poses – culinary, medicinal ical ecosystems in miniature.
and aromatic – are on display Native vegetation is displayed
here. A sensory fountain and in the Pyramid, while the Arc
a sundial modelled on the celes- holds plants not found locally,
tial sphere are also features. commonly known as exotics.
 B O T A N I C G A R D E N S A N D T H E D O M A I N 105

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Mrs Macquaries Rd. Maps 1 & 2.
Tel 9231 8111. Tours 9231 8125.
@ Sydney Explorer, 200, 441. g
Macquarie Wall Circular Quay.  Martin Place,
In 1810, work began on St James, Circular Quay. # 7am–
8pm Nov–Feb, 7am–6:30pm Mar
this 290-m (950-ft) long
Oct, 7am–6pm Apr & Sep, 7am–
wall intended to separate 5:30pm May Aug, 7am–5pm
the convict domain from Jun & Jul. 6 7 8 10:30am
the town’s “respectable daily,1pm Mon–Fri (not Jan–Feb).
Class of Inhabitants”. Tropical Centre # 10am–4pm
Only a small section daily. www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au.
remains standing today.

Choragic Monument (1870)

This replica of the eponymous statue
of Lysicrates in Athens was carved
in sandstone by Walter McGill.

0 metres 200

0 yards 200

Mrs Macquarie’s
Chair

Cadi Jam Ora, a

bush tucker display,
features native
plants that would
have grown on the
site prior to colonial
settlement.

. Australia’s First Farm

It is claimed that some Middle
Garden oblong beds follow
the direction of the first fur-
rows ploughed in the colony.

STAR SIGHTS
. Australia’s First
National Herbarium Farm
of New South Wales . Herb Garden
Over one million dried plant
specimens document biological . Palm Grove
Wollemi diversity. The charting of new plants
Pine
provides essential information for . Sydney Tropical Centre
conservation decision making.
106 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Conservatorium THE HISTORY OF COCKATOO ISLAND

of Music 2 Now deserted, the largest of
the 12 Sydney Harbour
Macquarie St. Map 1 C3. Tel 9351 islands was used to store
1222. @ Sydney Explorer, Circular grain from the 1830s. It was a
Quay routes. # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, penal establishment from the
9am–4pm Sat (public areas only). ¢ 1840s to 1908, with prisoners
public hols, Easter Sat, 24 Dec–2 Jan. 6 being put to work cons-
7 8 by appointment (phone 9351 tructing dock facilities. The
1296 for details). infamous bushranger
“Captain Thunderbolt” made
When it was finished in 821, his escape from Cockatoo in
this striking castellated 1863 by swimming across to
Colonial Gothic building was the mainland. From the 1870s
meant to be stables and to the 1960s, Cockatoo Island
servants’ quarters for Govern- was a thriving naval dock-
ment House, but construction HMS Orlando in dry dock at yard and shipyard, the hub of
of the latter was delayed for Cockatoo Island in the 1890s Australian industry.
almost 25 years. That stables
should be built in so grand a
style, and at such great cost, Government
brought forth cries of outrage
and led to bitter arguments House 3
between the architect, Francis
Greenway (see p114), and Macquarie St. Map 1 C2. Tel 9931
Governor Macquarie – and a 5222. @ Sydney Explorer, Circular
decree that all future building Quay routes. House # 10:30am–
plans be submitted to London. 3pm Fri–Sun. ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec.
Between 1908 and 1915, Garden # 10am–4pm daily. 6
“Greenway’s folly” underwent 7 8 every 30 mins. www.hht.net.
a dramatic transformation. A au/museums
concert hall, roofed in grey
slate, was built on the central What used to be the official
courtyard and the building in residence of the governor of
its entirety was converted for New South Wales overlooks
the use of the new Sydney the harbour from within the
Conservatorium of Music. Royal Botanic Gardens, but the Resting on the carved stone seat
The Conservatorium’s grandiose, somewhat sombre, of Mrs Macquaries Chair
facilities include a café which turreted Gothic Revival edifice
holds lunchtime concerts seems curiously out of place Mrs Macquaries
during the school term and in its beautiful park setting.
an upper level with harbour It was built of local sand- Chair 4
views. “The Con” continues stone and cedar between 1837
to be a training ground for and 1845. A fine collection of Mrs Macquaries Rd. Map 2 E2.
future musicians as well as 19th- and early 20th-century @ Sydney Explorer, 888. 7
being a great place to visit. furnishings is housed within.
The scenic Mrs Macquaries
Road winds alongside much of
what is now the city’s Royal
Botanic Gardens, from Farm
Cove to Woolloomooloo Bay
and back again. The road was
built in 1816 at the instigation
of Elizabeth Macquarie, wife
of the Governor. In the same
year, a stone bench, inscribed
with details of the new road,
was carved into the rock at the
point where Mrs Macquarie
would stop to admire the view
on her daily constitutional.
Although today the outlook
from this famous landmark is
much changed, it is just as
arresting, taking in the broad
sweep of the harbour and fore-
The Conservatorium of Music at the edge of the Royal Botanic Gardens shore with all its landmarks.
 B O T A N I C G A R D E N S A N D T H E D O M A I N 107

Historic Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf redevelopment, including apartments, restaurants and a hotel

Fort Denison 5 Harbour, the Opera House The Domain 8

and Kirribilli. To explore Fort
Sydney Harbour. Map 2 E1. Tel 9247 Denison, book a boat tour Art Gallery Rd. Map 1 C4. @
5033. g from Circular Quay. ¢ 25 from Cadman Cottage. Sydney Explorer, 111, 411. 6 7
Dec. & 6 - 8 $ cadman.
[email protected] People who swarm to the
Woolloomooloo January concerts and other
First named Rock Island, this Finger Wharf 6 Festival of Sydney events in
prominent, rocky outcrop in The Domain (see p49) are part
Sydney Harbour was very Cowper Wharf Roadway, of a long-standing tradition.
quickly dubbed “Pinchgut”. Woolloomooloo. Map 2 E4. This extensive public space
This was probably because of @ Sydney Explorer, 311. 6 has long been a rallying point
the meagre rations given to for crowds of Sydneysiders
convicts who were confined This is the largest of several whenever emotive issues of
there as punishment. It had a finger wharves that jut out public importance have arisen,
grim history of incarceration into the harbour. The wharf, such as the attempt in 1916 to
in the early completed in introduce military conscription
years of the 1914, was one or the dismissal of the elected
colony. of the points of federal government by the then
In 1796, con- embarkation for governor-general in 1975.
victed murderer soldiers bound From the 1890s, part of The
Francis Morgan for both world Domain was also used as the
was hanged on wars. Following Sydney version of “Speakers’
the island in World War II, it Corner”. Today, you are more
chains. His Fort Denison in 1907 was a landing likely to see joggers or office
body was left to place for many of workers playing touch foot-
rot on the gallows for three the thousands of immigrants ball in their lunch hours, or
years as a grisly warning to the who came to Australia. simply enjoying the shade.
other convicts. The wharf was the subject of
Between 1855 and 1857, the public controversy in the late
Martello tower (the only one 1980s and early 1990s, when
in Australia), gun battery and demolition plans were thwart-
barracks that now occupy the ed by conservation groups.
island were built as part of Since then, this National-Trust-
Sydney’s defences and the site listed maritime site has been
was renamed after the gover- redeveloped to include a
nor of the time. The gun, still hotel, lively restaurants and
fired at 1pm each day, was an bars, and apartments.
important aid for navigation,
allowing mariners to set their
ships’ chronometers. Art Gallery of New
Today the island is a popu- South Wales 7
lar tourist spot, commanding A dramatic view of Sydney Opera
spectacular views of Sydney See pp108–11. House from Mrs Macquaries Chair
108 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Art Gallery of New South Wales 5

Lower Level 3
Established in 1874, the art gallery has occupied its present
imposing building since 1897. Designed by the Colonial
Architect WL Vernon, the gallery doubled in size following
1988 building extensions. Two equestrian bronzes – The
Offerings of Peace and The Offerings of War – greet the
visitor on entry. The gallery itself houses some of the finest
works of art in Australia, with permanent collections of
Australian, Aboriginal, European, Asian and contemporary
art. The Yiribana Gallery is the largest in the world to
exclusively exhibit Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art
and culture. Free guided tours take place daily, covering
Aboriginal art, highlights of the collection or major exhibitions.

Mars and the Vestal Virgin (1638)

This oil on canvas by Parisian painter Jacques
Blanchard (1600–38) depicts Mars’s encounter
with a Vestal Virgin, who subsequently gave
birth to Romulus and Remus, founders of Rome.

Sunbaker (1937)
Max Dupain’s iconic, almost abstract,
Australian photograph of hedonism
and sun worship uses clean lines,
strong light, and geometric form. The
image’s power lies in its simplicity.

Sofala (1947)
Russell Drysdale’s
visions of Australia
show “ghost” towns
laid waste by
devastating natural
forces such as
drought.

GALLERY GUIDE
There are five levels. The
Upper Level has the Rudy
STAR EXHIBITS Komon Gallery for tempo-
rary exhibitions, which are
. The Golden Fleece also held on Lower Level 1. The
by Tom Roberts Ground Level has European and
Australian works, 20th-century
. Pukumani Grave European prints are on Lower
Posts Level 2 and the Yiribana Aboriginal Ground Level
Gallery is on Lower Level 3.
 B O T A N I C G A R D E N S A N D T H E D O M A I N 109

. Pukumani Grave Posts VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

(1958) Carved by the Tiwi
people of Melville Island Art Gallery Road, The Domain.
(north of Australia), these Map 2 D4. Tel 9225 1744.
posts represent qualities of @ Sydney Explorer, 441.
the deceased whose grave g Circular Quay.  St James,
they solemnly Martin Place. # 10am–5pm
surrounded. daily (until 9pm Wed). ¢ Good
Fri, 25 Dec. 7 8 0 - =
www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au

Lower
Level 2 Guardians, Tang Dynasty
These 7th-century Chinese
figures are part of a
collection highlighting
different traditions, periods
and cultures from the many
countries of Asia.

Lower
Level 1

Natives on the
Ouse River, Van
Diemen’s Land (1838)
English-Australian artist
John Glover was dubbed the
father of Australian landscape
painting for his bright depic-
tions of the Van Dieman’s
Land bush (now Tasmania).

KEY TO FLOORPLAN
Australian art

European art

Asian art

20th- and 21st-century

international art

Prints and drawings

Contemporary art

Domain Theatre

The sandstone . The Golden Fleece (1894) Yiribana Aboriginal Gallery

entrance was Also known as Shearing at Newstead, this Temporary exhibition space
added in 1909. work by Tom Roberts marks the coming of
Non-exhibition space
age of Australian Impressionist art.
110 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring the Art Gallery’s Collection

Although local works had been collected since 1875 the
gallery did not seriously begin seeking Australian and
non-British art until the 1920s, and not until the 1940s did
it begin acquiring Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander
paintings. These contrasting collections are now its great
strength. Major temporary exhibitions are also regularly
staged, with the annual Archibald, Wynne and Sulman
prizes being most controversial and highly entertaining.

and A Summer Morning

(c.1908), and George
Lambert’s heroic Across the
black soil plains (1899),
impress with their huge size
and complex compositions.
Australia was slow to take Three Bathers, an Ernst Ludwig
up Modernism. Implement blue Kirchner painting from 1913
(1927) and Western Australian
Gum Blossom (1928), both by and Florentine styles. Hogarth,
Margaret Preston, are her most Turner and Joshua Reynolds
assertive of the 1920s. Sidney are represented, as are Neo-
Nolan’s works range from Boy Classical works. The Visit of
in Township (1943) to Burke the Queen of Sheba to King
(c.1962), exploiting myths Solomon (1884–90) by Edward
of early Australian history. Poynter has been on display
Grace Cossington Smith’s The Curve There are fine holdings of since 1892. Ford Madox
of the Bridge (1928–9) William Dobell and Russell Brown’s Chaucer at the Court
Drysdale, as well as important of Edward III (1845–51) is the
collections of Arthur Boyd, most commanding work in
AUSTRALIAN ART Fred Williams, Grace the Pre-Raphaelite collection.
Cossington Smith and Brett The Impressionists and
Among the most important Whiteley (see p130). Post-Impressionists,
colonial works is John represented by late-1880s
Glover’s Natives on the Ouse Pissarro and Monet, are
River, Van Diemen’s Land EUROPEAN ART housed in the new gallery
(1838), an image of doomed wing. Bonnard, Kandinsky,
Tasmanian Aborigines. The scope of the scattered Braque and many other well-
The old wing holds paintings European collection ranges known European artists are
from the Heidelberg school of from the medieval to the also here. Old Woman in
Australian Impressionism. modern. British art from the Ermine (1946) by Max
Charles Conder’s Departure late 19th to the early 20th Beckmann and Three Bathers
of the Orient – Circular Quay centuries forms an (1913) by Ernst Ludwig
(1888) and Tom Robert’s The outstanding component. Kirchner are strong examples
Golden Fleece – Shearing at Among the Old Masters are of German Expressionism.
Newstead (1894) hang along- some significant Italian works The gallery’s first Picasso,
side fine works by Frederick that reflect Caravaggio’s Nude in a Rocking Chair
McCubbin and Arthur Streeton. influence. There are also (1956), was purchased in
Rupert Bunny’s sensuous several notable works from 1981. Among distinguished
Summer Time (c.1907) the Renaissance in Sienese sculptures is Henry Moore’s
Reclining Figure: Angles
(1980), found resting by the
side of the entrance.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Australian photography from

1975 to today, represented in
all its various forms, is a major
part of the collection. In recent
years, however, the emphasis
has been on building up a
body of 19th-century Aust-
ralian work in a range of
Brett Whiteley’s vivid The Balcony (2) from 1975 early mediums. Nearly 3,000
 B O T A N I C G A R D E N S A N D T H E D O M A I N 111

prints constitute this collection

with pieces by Charles Kerry,
Charles Bayliss and Harold
Cazneaux, the latter a major
figure of early 20th-century
Pictorialism. Such international
photographers as Muybridge,
Robert Mapplethorpe and Man
Ray are also represented here.

ASIAN ART

This collection is one of the

finest in Australia. Chinese art
is represented by a chronolog-
ical presentation of works
from the pre-Shang dynasty
(c.1600–1027 BC) to the 20th
century. The Ming porcelains,
earthenware funerary pieces
(mingqi) and the sculptures
deserve close attention.
The Japanese painting col-
lection contains fine examples Warlugulong by Clifford Possum Tjapaltjarri and Tim Leura Tjapaltjarri
by major artists of the Edo
period (1615–1867). The Indian to new media forms, and the
and Southeast Asian holdings CONTEMPORARY ART endurance of “Aboriginality”,
consist of lacquer, ceramics are repeatedly demonstrated.
and sculptures, with painting The significance of the art of The significant early purchases
displays changing regularly. our time is reflected in the are mainly natural pigment
collection of recent work by paintings on bark and card,
international and Australian often containing a simple, figu-
PRINTS AND DRAWINGS artists, only a fraction of rative motif of everyday life.
which can be displayed at Also of interest are two sand-
As so many of the works in any time. The collection high- stone carvings by Queens-
this collection are fragile, the lights the artistic themes that landers Linda Craigie and
exhibitions are changed have been central to art Nora Nathan, the only women
frequently. The collection rep- practice of the last three artists in the collection until
resents the European tradition decades. Works by Australian 1985. Topographical, geo-
from the High Renaissance to artists, such as Pataphysical graphical and cultural mapping
the 19th and 20th centuries, Man (Imants Tillers, 1984) of the land is displayed in a
with work by Rembrandt, and Suspended Stone Circle II number of intricate land-
Constable, William Blake and (Ken Unsworth, 1988), are on scapes. The qualities and
Edvard Munch. A strong bias display alongside pieces by forms of the natural world,
towards Sydney artists from notable international artists of and the actions and tracks of
the past 100 years has result- the calibre of Cindy Sherman, Ancestral Beings, are coded
ed in a fine gathering of work Yves Klein, Philip Guston and within the images. These
by Thea Proctor, Norman and Anselm Kiefer. The gallery also paintings are maps of
Lionel Lindsay and Lloyd Rees. has a contemporary project Ancestral journeys and events.
space that features temporary The bark painting Three
experimental installations. Mimis Dancing (1964) by
Samuel Wagbara examines the
habitation of the land by
YIRIBANA GALLERY Spirits and the recurrence of
the Creation Cycles.
Devoted to the exhibition of Pukumani Grave Posts Mel-
Aboriginal and Torres Strait ville Island (1958) is a solemn
Islander artworks bought since ceremonial work dealing with
the 1940s, traditional bark death, while the eminent Emily
paintings hang alongside Kame Kngwarreye honours the
innovative works from both land from which she comes.
desert and urban areas, inclu- The canvases of her intricate
ding stone and wood carvings, dot paintings, created using
ceramics and weavings. The new tools and technology,
ability of contemporary artists appear to move and shimmer,
Egon Schiele’s Poster for the to apply traditional ceremonial telling stories of the animals
Vienna Secession (1918) body and sand painting styles and food to be found there.
112 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

The newest section, a modern

structure facing Macquarie St,
houses the State Reference
Library and a gourmet café.
Outside the library, also fac-
ing Macquarie Street, is a statue
of explorer Matthew Flinders.
Behind him on the windowsill
is a statue of his co-voyager,
his faithful cat, Trim.

Parliament House 0
Macquarie St. Map 4 F1. Tel 9230
2111. @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth
St routes. 3 Martin Place. 8 book
in advance 9230 3444. # 9am–
Mosaic replica of the Tasman Map in the State Library of NSW 5pm Mon–Fri. ¢ most public hols.
7 www.parliament.nsw.gov.au
ceiling frame the impressive
State Library of vestibule. On the vestibule The central section of this
NSW 9 floor is a mosaic replica of an building, which houses the
old map illustrating the two State Parliament, is part of the
Macquarie St. Map 4 F1. Tel 9273 voyages made to Australia by original Sydney Hospital built
1414. @ Sydney Explorer, Elizabeth St Dutch navigator Abel from 1811–16. It has been a
routes. # 9am–8pm Mon–Thu, 9am– Tasman in the 1640s. seat of government
5pm Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. ¢ The original Tasman since 1829 when the
public hols. Mitchell Library closed Sun. Map is held in the newly appointed
- = 7 8 www.sl.nsw.gov.au Mitchell Library as Legislative Council
part of its large col- first held meetings
The State Library is housed lection of historic here. The building was
in two separate buildings Australian paintings, extended twice during
connected by a passageway books, documents the 19th century and
and a glass bridge. The older and pictorial records. Malby’s again during the 1970s
building, the Mitchell Library The Mitchell wing’s celestial globe, and 1980s. The current
wing (1910), is a majestic sand- vast reading room, Parliament House building contains the
stone edifice facing the Royal with its huge skylight chambers for both
Botanic Gardens. Huge stone and oak panelling, is just houses of state parliament, as
columns supporting a vaulted beyond the main vestibule. well as parliamentary offices.

MACQUARIE STREET
Described in the 1860s as one of the gloomiest streets in
Sydney, this could now claim to be the most elegant.
Open on the northeastern side to the harbour breezes and
the greenery of The Domain, a leisurely walk down this
tree-lined street is one of the most pleasurable ways to
view the architectural heritage of Sydney.

The new wing of the The Legislative Assembly, the

library was built in 1988 lower house of state parliament, is
and connected to the old furnished in the traditional green
section by a glass walkway. of the British House of Commons.

The Mitchell Library Parliament House was

wing’s portico (1906) once the convict-built Rum
has Ionic columns. Hospital’s northern wing.

STATE LIBRARY OF NSW (1906–41) PARLIAMENT HOUSE (1811–16)

 B O T A N I C G A R D E N S A N D T H E D O M A I N 113

Parliamentary memo- the Rum Hospital Florence Nightingale approved

rabilia is on view in because the builders the design of the 1867 nurses’
the Jubilee Room, as were paid by being wing. In the inner courtyard,
are displays showing allowed to import there is a brightly coloured Art
Parliament House’s rum for resale. Both Deco fountain (1907).
development and the north and south At the front of the hospital
the legislative history wings of the Rum sits Il Porcellino, a brass boar.
of New South Wales. Hospital survive as It is a copy of a 17th-century
The corrugated iron Parliament House fountain in Florence’s Mercato
building with a cast- and the Sydney Nuovo. Donated in 1968 by an
iron façade tacked on Mint. The central Italian woman whose relatives
at the southern end wing, which was in had worked at the hospital,
was a pre-fabricated danger of collapsing, the statue is an enduring sym-
kit from England. It Stained glass at was demolished in bol of the close friendship
was originally intend- Sydney Hospital 1879 and the new between Italy and Australia.
ed as a chapel for the hospital, which still Like his Florentine counter-
gold fields, but was diverted functions today, was part, Il Porcellino is supposed
from this purpose and sent to completed in 1894. The to bring good luck to all those
Sydney. In 1856, this disman- Classical Revival building who rub his snout. All coins
tled kit became the chamber boasts a Baroque staircase and tossed in the shallow pool at
for the new Legislative Council. elegant floral stained-glass his feet for luck and fortune
Its packing cases were used to windows in its entrance hall. are collected for the hospital.
line this chamber; the rough
timber is still on view inside.

Sydney Hospital q
Macquarie St. Map 1 C4.
Tel 9382 7111. @ Sydney Explorer,
Elizabeth St routes. # daily. & for
tours. 6 7 8 must be booked in
advance by telephone.

This imposing collection

of Victorian sandstone build-
ings stands on the site of what
was once the central section
of the original convict-built
Sydney Hospital – known as II Porcellino, the brass boar in front of Sydney Hospital

The lamps hanging over the The Little Shop,

gateways of Parliament a tiny corner store,
House are reproductions of currently resides in
the 19th-century gas lamps one of two domed
that used to stand here. former gatehouses.

The entrance stairs

of Pyrmont sandstone
have set the tone for
all renovations. The
stone, quarried in
colonial times, must
be matched exactly.
Arcaded stone
Arched sandstone verandas with
Corrugated bridges ornate balustrading
iron and cast-
iron façade

SYDNEY HOSPITAL (1868–94)

114 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

The Mint w no longer competitive with

the Melbourne and Perth
10 Macquarie St. Map 1 C5. Mints. The Georgian building
Tel 8239 2288. @ Sydney Explorer, went into its own decline
Elizabeth St routes. # 9am–5pm after it was converted into
Mon–Fri. ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. government offices. In the
- 6 7 ground floor only 1950s, the front courtyard was
www.hht.net.au/museums even used as a car park. In
1982, it opened as a branch
The gold rushes of the mid- of the Powerhouse Museum
19th century transformed (see pp100–101), but the
colonial Australia. The Sydney collection moved to the main
Mint opened in the 1816 Rum museum in Harris Street.
Hospital’s south wing in 1854 This building is now the
to turn recently discovered head office of the Historic
gold into bullion and currency. Houses Trust of NSW and you
It was the first branch of the can wander through the front
Royal Mint to be established of the building, or view the
outside London. The Mint small historical display near
was closed in 1927 as it was the entrance. Replica convict hammocks on the
third floor of Hyde Park Barracks

FRANCIS GREENWAY, CONVICT ARCHITECT

Until recently, Australian $10 notes bore Hyde Park Barracks
the portrait of the early colonial architect
Francis Greenway, the only currency in
Museum e
the world to pay tribute to a convicted Queens Square, Macquarie St. Map
forger. Greenway was transported to 1 C5. Tel 8239 2311.  St James,
Sydney in 1814 to serve 14 years for Martin Place. # 9:30am–5pm daily.
his crime. Under the patronage of ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 6 - 7
Governor Macquarie, who appointed him level one only. 8 on request.
Civil Architect in 1816, Greenway www.hht.net.au/museums
designed more than 40 buildings,
of which only 11 remain today. Described by Governor
He received a full pardon in 1819, Macquarie as “spacious” and
but soon fell out of favour as he “well-aired”, the beautifully
persisted in charging large fees proportioned barracks are the
Francis Greenway
while still on a government salary. work of Francis Greenway and
(1777–1837)
Greenway died in poverty in 1837. are considered his masterpiece.
They were completed in 1819

MACQUARIE STREET The Mint,

Fine examples of Francis Greenway’s Georgian like its twin, Parliament
style are within an easy walk of one another at House, has an unusual
the Hyde Park end of Macquarie Street. The double-colonnaded,
brick and sandstone of Hyde Park Barracks, St two-storeyed veranda.
James Church and the Old Supreme Court
Building form a harmonious group on the site
the governor envisaged as the city’s civic centre.

The roof of The Mint

has now been com- The stone wall,
pletely restored to of Hyde Park Barracks’ north-
replicate the original west pavilion still bears the
wooden shingles in marks of the convicts’ chisels.
casuarina (she-oak).
Hyde Park
Barracks Café

THE MINT (1816)

 B O T A N I C G A R D E N S A N D T H E D O M A I N 115

by convict labour and designed

to house 600 convicts who had
previously been forced to find
their own lodgings after their
day’s work. Subsequently, the
building housed Irish orphans
and then single female immig-
rants, before becoming courts
and legal offices. Refurbished
in 1990, it reopened as a
museum with exhibits covering
the the site and its occupants
over the years.
The displays include a room
reconstructed as convict quar-
ters of the 1820s, as well as
pictures, models and artifacts
relating to this period of Detail from the Children’s Chapel mural in the St James’ Church crypt
Australian history. Many of
the objects recovered during yet elegant church. Consecrated
archaeological digs at the site St James’ in 1824 by Samuel Marsden,
and now on display had been Church r the infamous “flogging parson”,
dragged away by rats to their it is Sydney’s oldest church.
nests; the scavenging rodents 173 King St. Map 1 B5. Tel 8227 1300. Many additions have been
are acknowledged as valuable  St James, Martin Place. # 8am– carried out, including designs
agents of preservation. 5pm Mon–Fri, 8am–4pm Sat, 7:30am– by John Verge in which the
The Greenway Gallery on the 4pm Sun. Free concerts Mar–Dec: pulpit faced towards high-rent
first floor holds temporary Wed 1:15pm. www.sjks.org.au pews, while convicts and the
exhibitions on history, ideas military sat behind the preacher
and culture. From the Barracks This fine Georgian building, where the service would have
Café, which incorporates the constructed with convict- been inaudible. A Children’s
original confinement cell area, made bricks, was designed as Chapel was added in 1930.
the visitor can enjoy a courthouse in 1819. The Prominent members of early
refreshment, gazing architect, Francis Greenway, 19th-century society, many of
out over the now was forced to convert it into a whom died violently, are com-
serene courtyard, church in 1820, when plans memorated in marble tablets.
once the to build a grand cathedral on These tell the full and bloody
scene of George Street were abandoned. stories of luckless explorers
brutal convict Greenway unhappy about and shipwreck victims, among
floggings. the change, designed a simple other untimely demises.

The stained-glass
windows in the
Chapel of the Holy
This clock, dating from 1817 Spirit of St James’
and one of Sydney’s oldest, is on Church are mostly
the Hyde Park Barracks façade. 20th century.

The Land Titles Office,

a WL Vernon building
from 1908, has a
Classical form with
some fine Tudor
Georgian
sandstone
Gothic detailing.
façade
Copper
spire atop
a square
Statue of Prince brick tower
Albert

HYDE PARK BARRACKS (1817–19) LAND TITLES OFFICE (1908–13) ST JAMES’ (1820)
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 117

KINGS CROSS AND

DARLINGHURST

S ituated on the eastern

fringe of the city, Kings
Cross, known as “The
Cross”, and Darlinghurst
are a couple of Sydney
Sydney, famed as much for
their street life and thriving
café culture as for their
unsavoury features. Kings
Cross exudes a welcome
celebrities. Their allure is breath of bohemia, in
tarnished – or enhanced, per- Façade detail, spite of the sleaze of Darling-
Del Rio (see p119)
haps – by trails of scandal and hurst Road and the flaunting
corruption. Kings Cross, particularly, of its red light district. Darlinghurst
is still regarded as a hotbed of vice; comes brilliantly into its own every
both areas still bear the taint of 1920s March, when the flamboyant Gay and
gangland associations. In fact, both Lesbian Mardi Gras parade, supported
are now cosmopolitan areas – among by huge crowds of spectators, makes
the most densely populated parts of its triumphant way along Oxford Street.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Streets and Parks and Gardens GETTING THERE
Buildings Beare Park 4 Kings Cross railway station
Victoria Street 2 serves the area. Bus number
Elizabeth Bay House 3 Monuments 311 travels through Kings
Old Gaol, Darlinghurst 6 El Alamein Fountain 1
Cross and Darlinghurst, while
Darlinghurst Court House 7 the 324, 325 and 389 are also
useful. Buses 378, 380 and 382
travel along Oxford Street.
Museums and Galleries
Sydney Jewish Museum 5


":
8
"%
30


3'
"

0 metres 100
)
8

$)"--*4
& 5
3

"7&/6&
0 yards 100
&
1

4 5 3 &

8
$0
& & 5

& 5

/* $) 0-

40 /
45
3& &5
5 3 &
4 5 3

#&"3&

5
/

1"3,
$&

- & ":
4

4





3&

$
(
/
6

. " $
0

:

)6 () &4
/

45 3& &5 (3&&/,

)

/08&
"
+0

7&/6&
5
3

3
4*

" .
53&&

":
* "

0 "%




#
)
6 ( )

&5
5 0 3
3&&5

#
/



4

$"5)&%
3" -








4 &- * ;"
53&&5




45

# 3 0

%

7 * $
5

0"
$308

3
3 & &

&

5

6
3*-&:

34

/
3&&5

&
6

7
)


4 5

"
(

*/

8 * - - ,JOHT
$SPTT



45

3-

%

* " .






"

4 5

8"3
%

3 & & 5
& 5


&5

&4



453&

,*
/(
4

&5

$ 3 0 4
'03#
5 3 &

4
30"%
:

3&

3 , &

#ROSS#ITY







45

$3"
*( &/
4UNNEL
3*-&

%




4

# 0 6

453&
&5



1" - . & 3

8)*5-".

"

426"3&

0

0 -*7&3 &

9 100- /6
3
&5

&
& & 5

'



45
"7

0 3&&5 )
3 "
8 /

&3
453&

% -*7&3



4 5 3

100- .


0




4 453&&
5
8

" 7 &
/6&

KEY
0 .

$ 3 0

5 # 6 3
5

3 5 0 /
3$

&





&
4 5 3 Street-by-Street map
#"
3 4

5 & & 5
See pp118–19

6
4
&

)
#

(3&&/

(
3

&
0

1"3,

6
* /

CityRail station
'

"

0 /
&
*

9
-

7
3

'0
"
3

3


"

5

%
Railway line
%

$

5":-03

*

.
7

426"3& 0
$
45 3
3& "
&5 #

The large neon sign at the top of William Street marking the entrance to Kings Cross
118 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Potts Point

The substantial Victorian houses filling the
streets of this old suburb are excellent
examples of the 19th-century concern with
architectural harmony. New building pro-
jects were designed to enhance rather than
Beare Park contradict the surrounding buildings and
fountain detail
general streetscape. Monumental structures
and fine details of moulded stuccoed parapets, cornices
and friezes, even the spandrels in herringbone pattern,
are all integral parts of a grand suburban plan. (This The McElhone Stairs were pre-
plan included an 1831 order that all houses cost at least ceded by a wooden ladder that
£1,000.) Cool and dark verandas extend the street’s green linked Woolloomooloo Hill, as
canopy of shade, leaving an impression of cool drinks Kings Cross was known, to the
enjoyed on hot summer days in fine Victorian style. estate far below.

Horderns Stairs

These villas, from

the Georgian and T
Victorian eras, can R EE
be broadly labelled ST
as Classical Revival
and are fronted by
A
leafy gardens. RI
T O
IC
V
ET
RE
ST
M
A

Kings Cross
N
N

Station
. Victoria Street
IN

H M
LU
G

U U
In 1972–4, residents of this GH
SC
ST

ES
historic street fought a some- TU
RE
ET

times violent battle against

developers wanting to build
high-rise office towers,
motels and blocks of flats 2
ST
RE
ET
Werrington,
a mostly serious and
streamlined building,
ET
also has flamboyant RE GR
Art Deco detailing ST EE
N
which is now subdued KN
under brown paint. OW
E
Y
EA
CL
A
M

ELIZABETH

STAR SIGHTS Tusculum Villa was just one of

a number of 1830s houses sub-
. Victoria Street ject to “villa conditions”. All had
to face Government House, be
. Elizabeth Bay House of a high monetary value and be
built within three years.
 K I N G S C R O S S A N D D A R L I N G H U R S T 119

Challis Avenue is a
BOTANIC
fine and shady comple- GARDENS AND
ment to nearby Victoria THE DOMAIN

Street. This Romanesque

group of terrace houses
has an unusual façade,
KINGS CROSS AND
with arches fronting DARLINGHURST
deep verandas and a
grand ground floor
colonnade. PADDINGTON

LOCATOR MAP
Rockwall, a symmetrical See Street Finder, map 2
and compact Regency villa, Del Rio is a finely
was built to the designs of detailed high-rise
the architect John Verge apartment block. It
(see p120) in 1830–7. clearly exhibits the
Spanish Mission
influence that fil-
Landmark
Hotel
tered through from
California in the
CH first quarter of the
A 20th century.
LL
IS
A
V
EN
U
E

T
R EE
ST
UE

Y
LYARD AVEN

EA
CL
A
M
CE
PLA

BIL

. Elizabeth Bay House

ONSLOW

CR
IC A contemporary exclaimed
K
A over the beauty of the 1830s
VE
N garden: “trees from Rio, the
U The Arthur
E West Indies, the East Indies,
McElhone
Reserve
China … the bulbs from the
Cape are splendid” 3
UE
EN
AV
W
ONSLO

A
VE
N
U
E
Art Deco Birtley
Towers

BAY
ROAD 0 metres 50

0 yards 50 Elizabeth Bay was part of the original land grant to

KEY Alexander Macleay (see p120). He created a botanist’s
paradise with ornamental ponds, quaint grottoes and
Suggested route
promenades winding all the way down to the harbour.
120 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

cial affairs. The present portico

dates from 1893. The interior
is furnished to reflect Macleay’s
occupancy from 1839–45, and
is based on inventories drawn
up in 1845 for the transfer of
the house to Macleay’s son,
William Sharp. He took the
house in return for payment
of his father’s debts, leading
to a rift never to be resolved.
Macleay’s original 22-hectare
(54-acre) land grant was sub-
divided for flats and villas
from the 1880s to 1927. In the
El Alamein Fountain, commemorating the World War II battle 1940s, the house itself was
divided into 15 flats. In 1942,
development. Juanita Nielsen, the artist Donald Friend, while
El Alamein publisher of a local newspaper standing on the balcony of
Fountain 1 and heiress, vigorously took his flat – the former morning
up the conservation battle. On room – saw the ferry Kuttabul
Fitzroy Gardens, Macleay St, Potts 4 July 1975, she disappeared hit by a torpedo from a
Point. Map 2 E5. @ 311. without trace. A subsequent Japanese midget submarine.
inquest into her disappearance The house was restored and
This dandelion of a fountain returned an open verdict. opened as a museum in 1977.
in the heart of the Kings As a result of the actions of
Cross district has a reputation the union and residents, most
for working so spasmodically of Victoria Street’s superb old
that passers-by often murmur buildings still stand. Ironically,
facetiously, “He loves me, he they are now occupied not by
loves me not.” Built in 1961, it the low-income residents who
commemorates the Australian fought to save them, but by
army’s role in the siege of the well-off professionals who
Tobruk, Libya, and the battle eventually displaced them.
of El Alamein in Egypt during
World War II. At night, when Elizabeth Bay
it is brilliantly lit, the fountain
looks surprisingly ethereal. House 3
7 Onslow Ave, Elizabeth Bay.
Victoria Street 2 Map 2 F5. Tel 9356 3022. @ Sydney
Explorer, 311. # 9:30am–4pm Fri–
Potts Point. Map 5 B2. @ 311, Sun. ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. & 6
324, 325. www.hht.net.au/museums The sweeping staircase under the
oval dome, Elizabeth Bay House
At the Potts Point end, this Elizabeth Bay House (see
street of 19th-century ter- pp24–5) contains the finest
race houses, interspersed with colonial interior on display in Beare Park 4
a few incongruous- Australia. It is a potent
looking high-rise expression of how the Ithaca Rd, Elizabeth Bay. Map 2 F5.
blocks, is, by inner-city 1840s depression cut @ 311, 350.
standards, almost a short the 1830s’ prosper-
boulevard. This gracious ous optimism. Designed in Originally a part of the
street was once at the the fashionable Greek Macleay Estate, Beare Park is
centre of a bitter Revival style by now encircled by a jumble of
conservation struggle, John Verge, it was apartment blocks. A refuge
one which almost built for Colonial from hectic Kings Cross, it is
certainly cost a Secretary Alexander one of only a handful of parks
prominent heritage Macleay, from serving a densely populated
campaigner’s life. 1835–9. The domed area. In the shape of a natural
In the early 1970s, oval saloon with its amphitheatre, the park puts
many residents, backed Juanita cantilevered staircase is Elizabeth Bay on glorious view.
by the “green bans” (see Nielsen recognized as Verge’s The family home of JC
p31) put in place by the masterpiece. The exterior Williamson, a famous theatrical
Builders’ Labourers’ Federation is less satisfactory, as the entrepreneur who came to
of New South Wales, fought intended colonnade and por- Australia from America in the
to prevent demolition of old tico were not finished owing 1870s, formerly stood at the
buildings for high-rise to a crisis in Macleay’s finan- eastern extremity of the park.
 K I N G S C R O S S A N D D A R L I N G H U R S T 121

Jewish traditions and culture quarried on the site by convicts

within Australia. Ascending which was then chiselled by
the stairs to mezzanine levels them into blocks.
1–6, the visitor passes through No fewer than 67 people
chronological and thematic were executed here between
exhibitions which unravel the 1841 and 1908. Perhaps the
history of the Holocaust. most notorious hangman was
From Hitler’s rise to power Alexander “The Strangler”
and Kristallnacht, through the Green, after whom Green Park,
evacuation of the ghettos and outside the jail, is thought to
the Final Solution, to the ulti- have been named. Green lived
mate liberation of the infamous near the park until public
death camps and Nuremberg hostility forced him to live in
Trials, the harrowing events relative safety inside the jail.
are graphically documented. Some of Australia’s most
This horrific period is recalled noted artists, including Frank
using photographs and relics, Hodgkinson, Jon Molvig and
Star of David in the lobby of the some exhumed from mass William Dobell, trained or
Sydney Jewish Museum graves, as well as audiovisual taught at the art school which
exhibits and oral testimonies. was established here in 1921.
Holocaust survivors act as
Sydney Jewish volunteer guides. Their
Museum 5 presence, bearing witness to
the recorded events, lends
148 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst. considerable power and mov-
Map 5 B2. Tel 9360 7999. ing authenticity to the exhibits.
@ Sydney Explorer, Bondi & Bay
Explorer, 311, 388. # 10am–4pm
Sun–Thu, 10am–2pm Fri. ¢ Sat,
Old Gaol,
Jewish hols. & 7 8 = Darlinghurst 6
www.sydneyjewishmuseum.com.au
Cnr Burton & Forbes Sts, Darlinghurst.
Sixteen Jewish convicts were Map 5 A2. Tel 9339 8744. @ 333,
on the First Fleet and many 378, 380, 389 # 9am–5pm
more were to be transported Mon–Fri. ¢ public hols. 6 7
before the end of the convict
era. As with other convicts, Originally known as the
most would endure and some Woolloomooloo Stockade and The former Governor’s house, Old
would thrive, seizing all the later as Darlinghurst Gaol, this Gaol, Darlinghurst
opportunities the colony had complex is now part the
to offer for those wishing to National Art School. It was
make something of themselves. constructed over a 20-year Darlinghurst Court
The Sydney Jewish Museum period from 1822. House 7
relates stories of Australian Surrounded by walls almost
Jewry within the context of the 7 m (23 ft) high, the cell blocks Forbes St, Darlinghurst. Map 5 A2.
Holocaust. The ground floor radiate from a central round- Tel 9368 2947. @ 333, 378, 380.
display explores present-day house. The jail is built of stone # Feb–Dec: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri.
¢ mid-Dec–Jan, public hols. 7 8

Abutting the grim old jail, to

which it is connected by
underground passages, and
facing tawdry Taylors Square,
this unlikely gem of Greek
Revival architecture was
begun in 1835 by Colonial
Architect Mortimer Lewis. He
was only responsible for the
central block of the main
building with its splendid six-
columned Doric portico with
fine Greek embellishments.
The balancing side wings were
not added until the 1880s.
The court house is still used
by the state’s Supreme Court
mainly for criminal cases, and
Beare Park, a quiet inner-city park with harbour views these are open to the public.
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 123

PADDINGTON
P addington is justly celebrated from this bustling central thor-
for its handsome terraces, but oughfare into the narrow lanes and
this “village in the city”, as it
is often dubbed, is also famed for
its interesting speciality shops full
elegant, leafy streets. The suburb
has undergone a series of quite
radical transformations. The first
of oddities and collectables, fine Paddington was built in the 1830s
restaurants, small hotels, fashion- as a Georgian weekend retreat for
able art galleries and antique the moneyed class. These gracious
dealers’ shops. Paddington boasts homes had a short life, before
a lively street culture, especially being knocked down and sub-
on Saturdays when people from divided. The terraces succeed-
far and wide flock to the famous ing them fell into ruin by the
weekly Paddington Markets, Clock tower on 1920s, but are now admired
spilling out into the streets, Paddington Town Hall as finely estored Victorian
pubs and cafés of the surrounding homes with their distinctive wrought-
area. Stretching from the Victoria Bar- iron “lace” verandas. The glimpses of
racks at its western end, along Oxford harbour found in the quiet streets
Street to the green haven of Centen- make Paddington one of Sydney’s
nial Park, Paddington slopes away most sought-after residential areas.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Streets and Parks and Gardens GETTING THERE
Buildings Centennial Park 9 The best way to travel to and
Paddington Street 1 around this area is by bus.
Markets Buses 378, 380 and 382 run
The Entertainment Quarter 2
Paddington Markets 3 along Oxford Street on their
Five Ways 4
way between the city and
Juniper Hall 5 beach suburbs,while bus 389
Paddington Town Hall 6 &5

cuts through the back streets.
3&

Paddington Village 7 /6
&
45

& &5
"7
Victoria Barracks 8
3&

."
45

. $%
3 $0
0/
/

#" 3: "-
%
4
"
08

5
#06/ %
#3
&5

&

0 3
.
53&

3 0
/

" %

- &

4

0 3 . 0/ %
4 53 && 5

3&&5

(
*/ (

08 -

$"4 $"% &
45

0

9
' 45"''0
0 3 3%
453&
%

%

53&&5

&5
30"%

4 0 65 )

4 5
3 &
:/

4

& 5


6
/
4 & -8

4

%
&
(3&&/

3
8
0
0
0 %
9

3&/ 1"
/:
4 ' %
.0/

53&& 0 %*
5 3 /(
.00
3&
% 50


$6 3

1"3 4 /

, 5 45

3
"

&
(

&
45 3&

30
0

"% 5
/

3

%

-&
4
;

&5
0

*
/

/
3

45
"

&

&3

5
.003&
3&&
&
$

45





5
4

4:%/&:
&/

5

. 45
1"3, 26& &&5
3

'005#"--
00 3&


453
% 3

&

&5

&4



&

3&
+".
5

45"%*6.

* 7 & 3

,JQQBY
1"
3 ,

-BLF 30 "%
09
'0
(3& '09
3%
(0

3:
" 456%*04
7&/ 453&&5

6&

4:%/&:

1 " 3

$3*$,&5

%

"
"
" 7 & /

(306/%
0

$&/5&//*"-


3

3
" %

1"3,
0

."$"35)63
"7&

4)083*/(
"5
6 &

0
$
&

5)&

&/5&35"*/.&/5

(

26"35&3
/
"
-

KEY
Street-by-Street map 0 metres 500
See pp124–5
0 yards 500

The front entrance to a lovingly restored Victorian terrace house in Paddington

 124 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Paddington
Paddington began to flourish in the 1840s,
when the decision was made to build the
Victoria Barracks. At the time much of it was
“the most wild looking place… barren sand-
hills with patches of scrub, hills and hollows
galore”. The area began to fill rapidly, as owner
builders bought into the area and built short . Five Ways
rows of terrace houses, many extremely narrow This shopping hub was estab-
Victorian finial because of the lack of building regulations. lished in the late 19th century
in Union Street After the Depression, most of Paddington
on the busy Glenmore roadway
was threatened with demolition, but was saved and trodden out by bullocks 4
restored by the large influx of postwar migrants.

AD
RO
GURN
ER
E
OR
M
EN
GL

E
N
LA
ET

LK
T
RE

E O
E F
F
ST

Duxford Street’s terrace houses in R U

T S
S
Y

toning pale shads constitute an

LE

ideal of town planning: the Victo-

EE

E
IT

rians preferred houses in a row to

H

BR K
H

L
have a pleasingly uniform aspect. O O
W

U F
G F
H U
T
D

STAF O S
R

FORD O N
D UXF

LAN
E

“Gingerbread”
houses can be
seen in Broughton STAFF
ORD
STREET

and Union Streets. STREE

T
With their steeply
pitched gables and
fretwork barge-
boards, they are
typical of the rustic
N

Gothic Picturesque
IO
N

architectural style.
U

UNDERW
OOD
The London Tavern opened for ST
RE
business in 1875, making it the ET
suburb’s oldest pub. Like many of
the pubs and delicatessens in this
well-serviced suburb, it stands at
the end of a row of terraces.
M
A
LI
IL
W

STAR SIGHTS
. Five Ways
KEY
. Paddington Street Suggested route
 PA D D I N G T O N 125

The Sherman Gallery is housed DARLINGHURST

in a strikingly modern building. It
is designed to hold Australian and
international contemporary sculp-
ture and paintings. Suitable access
PADDINGTON
gates and a special in-house crane
enable the movement of large-
scale artworks, including textiles.

Paddington streets are a LOCATOR MAP

treasure chest of galleries, bars See Street Finder, maps 5 & 6
and restaurants.

STRE
ET

LAN
E Warwick, built in the 1860s, is a minor castle
E

lying at the end of a row of humble terraces. Its

N
NO R F

T turrets, battlements and assorted decorations, in

K LA

E
E
R a style somewhat fancifully described as “King
T
S Arthur”, even adorn the garages at the rear.
NORFOL
OLK

H
A
RG
RA
VE

STR
ST

EET
STREET

Windsor
Street’s terrace
STREET houses are, in
some cases, a
LANE

STREET

mere 4.5 m
(15 ft) wide.
CASCADE

W
IN
DS
HOPETOUN

OR
UNION

ST
RE
ET

Street-making in Paddington’s
early days was often an expen-
PADDING sive and complicated business.
TON A cascade of water was dam-
T

ST
EE

RE med to build Cascade Street.

R

ET
T
S

D
U . Paddington
D Street
LE
Y
ST Under the established
RE
ET
plane trees, some of
Paddington’s finest
Victorian terraces
exemplify the building
boom of 1860–90.
0 metres 50 Over 30 years, 3,800
houses were built in
0 yards 50 the suburb 1
126 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Fox Studios, which produced clothes or a tarot reading, to

such well-known films as The Oriental massages, bonsai
Matrix and Moulin Rouge. trees and handmade soaps.
There are 16 cinema screens
where you can watch the Five Ways 4
latest movies, and at the La
Premiere cinema you can Cnr Glenmore Rd & Heeley St.
enjoy your movie with wine Map 5 C3. @ 389.
and cheese, sitting on comfort-
able sofas. There are four live- At this picturesque junction,
entertainment venues which a busy shopping hub develo-
regularly feature the latest local ped by the tramline that once
and international acts. You can ran to Bondi Beach. On the
also enjoy bungy trampolining, five corners stand Victorian
bowling or seasonal ice-skating, and early 20th-century shops,
and children love the three, one now a restaurant.
well-designed playgrounds. On another corner is the
Paddington Street terrace house In addition to shops there impressive Royal Hotel (see
are plenty of restaurants, cafés p197), built in 1888. This
and bars offering a range of mixed Victorian and Classical
Paddington meals, drinks and snacks. Revival building, has a charac-
Street 1 Every Wednesday and teristic intricate cast-iron “lace”
Saturday you can sample screen balcony offering
Map 6 D3. @ 333, 378, 380. fresh produce at the Farmers stunning harbour views.
Market or try a gourmet
With its huge plane trees delicacy from one of the 40 Juniper Hall 5
shading the road and fine stallholders. Many of the stalls
two-, three- and four-storey offer free tastings. Sunday’s 250 Oxford St. Map 5 C3.
terrace houses on each side, market focuses on Tel 9258 0123. @ 333, 378, 380.
Paddington Street is one of merchandise rather than food. ¢ to public. www.nsw.
the oldest, loveliest, and at Shops are open until late, nationaltrust.org.au
the same time most typical of and there is a good selection
the suburb’s streets. – offering fashion, books and The emancipist gin distiller
Paddington grew rapidly as homewares. There is plenty Robert Cooper built this
a commuter suburb in the late of undercover parking and superb example of Colonial
19th century and most of the the complex is a pleasant stroll Georgian architecture for his
terraces were built for renting away from Oxford Street. third wife, Sarah. He named it
to the city’s artisans. They after the main ingredient of
were cheaply decorated with Paddington the gin that made his fortune.
iron lace (some of which had Completed in 1824, it is the
arrived in ships as ballast), as Markets 3 oldest building in Paddington
well as Grecian-style friezes, still standing. It is probably
395 Oxford St. Map 6 D4.
worked parapets, swagged also the largest and most
Tel 9331 2923. @ 333, 378,
urns, lions rampant, cornices, extravagant. It had to be: he
380. # 10am–4pm Sat.
pilasters, scrolls and other already had 14 children when
¢ 25 Dec. 6 7
fancy plastering. By the 1900s, he declared that Sarah would
See Shops and Markets p203.
these terraces had become have the finest house in Sydney.
www.paddingtonmarkets.com.au
unfashionable but in the 1960s, Juniper Hall was saved
tastes changed again and from demolition in the mid-
Paddington experienced a This market, which began 1980s and restored in fine
renaissance. in 1973, takes place every style. Now part of the
Paddington Street now has Saturday, come rain or shine, National Trust, it is used as
a chic atmosphere where in the grounds of Paddington private office space.
small art galleries operate out Village Uniting Church and its
of quaint and grand shopfronts. neighbouring school. It is a
place to meet and be seen as
much as it is to shop. Stall-
The Entertainment holders come from all over
Quarter 2 the world, and many young
designers, hoping to launch
Lang Rd, Moore Park. Tel 8117 their careers, display their
6700. Map 5 C5. @ 339, 355. # wares. Among the offerings
Many retail shops open 10am–10pm. are jewellery, pottery new and
www.eqmoorepark.com.au secondhand clothing and an
array of other arts and crafts.
There’s a vibrant atmosphere Whatever you are looking for,
at the Entertainment Quarter, you are likely to find it here, Balcony of the Royal Hotel in the
which is located next door to from designer bags and heart of Paddington
 PA D D I N G T O N 127

Paddington
Town Hall 6
Cnr Oxford St & Oatley Rd. Map 5 C3.
@ 333, 378, 380. #10am–4pm
Mon–Fri. ¢ public hols. 6

The Paddington Town Hall

was completed in 1891. An
international competition
which, in a spirit of Victorian
self-confidence, was intended
to produce the state’s finest
town hall, was won by local
architect JE Kemp. His
Classical Revival building, to The lush green expanse of Centennial Park
which a clock tower was later
added, still dominates the Victoria repel surprise attacks, have
surrounding area, although it foundations 10 m (40 ft) deep
is no longer a centre of local Barracks 8 in places. In a former jail
government. block, a museum traces New
The building now houses Oxford St. Map 5 B3. Tel 9339 3000. South Wales’ military heritage.
Chauvel Cinema, managed @ 333, 378, 380. Museum # 10am–
by the Australian Film 12:30pm Thu, 10am– 3:45pm Sun. ¢
Institute, Paddington Library, 25-26 Dec, 1 Jan. 6 7 8 Parade Centennial Park 9
and a large ballroom that is & tour: 10am Thu.
available for hire. Map 6 E5. Tel 9339 6699. @ Clovelly,
Victoria Barracks is the largest Coogee, Maroubra, Randwick, Bronte,
and best-preserved group of City, Bondi Beach & Bondi Junction
late Georgian architecture in routes, Bondi Explorer Bus. # The
Australia, covering almost park is open permanently. Cars are
12 ha (29 acres). It is widely permitted from sunrise to sunset.
considered to be one of the - 0 7 8 on request.
best examples of a military www.centennialparklands.com.au
barracks in the world.
Designed by the Colonial Entering this 220-ha (544-acre)
Engineer, Lieutenant Colonel park through one of its sand-
George Barney, the barracks stone and wrought-iron gates,
were built between 1841 and the visitor may wonder how
1848 using local sandstone such an extensive and idyllic
quarried by mainly convict place has survived so close to
labour. Originally intended to the centre of the city.
Paddington Town Hall house 800 men, it has been in Formerly a common, it was
continuous military use ever dedicated “to the enjoyment
since, and still operates as a of the people of New South
Paddington centre of military planning, Wales forever” on 26 January
Village 7 administration and command. 1888, the centenary of the
The main block is 225 m foundation of the colony. On
Cnr Gipps & Shadforth Sts. Map 5 (740 ft) long and has symmet- 1 January 1901, more than
C3. @ 333, 378, 380. rical two-storey wings with 100,000 people gathered here
cast-iron verandas flanking a to witness the birth of the
Paddington began its life as central archway. The perimeter Commonwealth of Australia
a working-class suburb. The walls, which are designed to with the proclamation of the
community comprised the Federation of Australia. The
carpenters, quarrymen and striking Federation Pavilion
stonemasons who supervised marks the site of this event.
the convict gangs that built Today picnickers, painters,
Victoria Barracks in the 1840s. runners, horse riders, cyclists
The artisans and their fami- and in-line skaters enjoy this
lies occupied a tight huddle of vast recreation area.
spartan houses, a few of which Once the source of Sydney’s
still remain, crowded into the water supply, the swamps are
narrow streets nearby. Like now home to many waterbirds.
the barracks, these dwellings Within the park are ornamen-
and surrounding shops and tal ponds, cultivated gardens,
hotels were built mainly of The archway at the Oxford Street an Avenue of Palms, a sports
locally quarried stone. entrance to Victoria Barracks ground and a café (see p194).
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 129

FUR THER AFIELD

B eyond the inner city,
numerous places vie
for the visitor’s atten-
tion. Around the harbour
foreshores are picturesque
city’s northern playground,
while Bondi is its eastern
counterpart. In Balmain,
Glebe and Surry Hills, the
visitor can experience the
suburbs, secluded beaches, character of the inner sub-
scenic outlooks and cultural urbs. Still further afield, out
and historic sights. Taronga west at Parramatta, there are
Zoo is worth a visit as much Mr and Mrs Luna Park sights that recall and evoke
for its incomparable setting as for its the first days of European settlement
birds and animals. Manly, stretching and the colony’s initially unsteady steps
between harbour and ocean, is the towards agricultural self-sufficiency.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Districts and Parks and Gardens Markets
Buildings Nielsen Park r Sydney Fish Market 5
University of Sydney 3 Museums and Galleries
Balmain 6 Cemeteries
Brett Whiteley Studio 1
Kirribilli Point 8 St John’s Cemetery d
Nutcote 9
North Head w KEY
Entertainment
Vaucluse House e
Luna Park 7 Main sightseeing areas
Watsons Bay t
Taronga Zoo pp134–5 0 Park or reserve
Macquarie Lighthouse y
Sydney Olympic Park o
Captain Cook’s Landing Place i Airport
Elizabeth Farm p Beaches
Manly q Metroad route
Hambledon Cottage a
Experiment Farm Cottage s Bondi Beach u Freeway or motorway
Old Government House f Restaurants and Pubs Major road
Surry Hills 2
Minor road
16 km = 10 miles Glebe 4

SIGHTS OUTSIDE CENTRAL SYDNEY.EWCASTLE 0ALM"EACH

 .BOMZ



1BSSBNBUUB   $IBUTXPPE



 3ZEF


+ATOOMBA  




 



O

1 PS
U
+B D L T P

 

#VSXPPE 
KM

  



KM #POEJ


#BOLTUPXO 
 




KM

3YDNEY
!IRPORT

 

KM 
.BSPVCSB
3PDLEBMF







 #PUBOZ
#BZ
( FP S HFT

3 J W F 
S
+URNELL
7OLLONGONG #RONULLA


The majestic clock tower rising above the main quadrangle at the University of Sydney
130 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Brett Whiteley French and numerous Italian

eateries scattered around the
Studio 1 suburb, along with smart and
2 Raper St, Surry Hills. Map 5 A4. casual cafés and stylish pubs.
Tel 9225 1881. @ 343, 372, 393. Once the centre of Sydney’s
# 10am–4pm Sat & Sun, or by garment trade, it still has fac-
appointment on Thu & Fri. ¢ Easter tory outlets where clothing,
Sun, 25 Dec. 7 partial access. lingerie and haberdashery can
be purchased at below retail
prices. Alternative fashion and
In June 1992, Brett Whiteley, retro clothing shops are found
enfant terrible of Australian at the Oxford Street end of
contemporary art, died unex- Crown Street. These boutiques
pectedly at the age of 53. An attract the street-smart crowd.
internationally acclaimed and
prolific artist, he produced
some of the most sumptuous Shop in Crown Street, Surry Hills
University of
images of Sydney and its dis- Sydney 3
tinctive harbour ever painted. in the South. In the postwar
In 1985, Whiteley bought a years, the low property and Parramatta Rd, Camperdown.
former factory and converted rental prices attracted a large Map 3 B5. Tel 9351 2222. @ 343,
it into a studio and residence. number of new migrants to Parramatta Rd & City Rd routes.
The studio is now a public the already-hectic district. # daily. 6 7 8 phone 9351
museum and art gallery. It In recent decades, young 2274 (book one week in advance).
features the work of Whiteley professionals have moved into
and other artists. Visitors gain the area, lured by the charm Inaugurated in 1850, this is
an insight into Whiteley’s life of its Victorian terraces and Australia’s oldest university.
and work through changing closeness to the city. Many The campus is a sprawling
exhibitions and displays of his of the suburb’s traditional hotchpotch of buildings
effects and memorabilia. The inhabitants have since from different eras, of
studio is under the administra- been displaced. often dubious architec-
tion of the Art Gallery of New Today Surry Hills tural merit. However,
South Wales (see pp108–11). is a curious mixture the original Victorian
of fashion and seedi- Gothic main building
ness. Newly renovated still stands on its ele-
Surry Hills 2 houses stand alongside vated site, dominating
dilapidated dwellings, its surroundings. The
Map 5 A3. @ 301, 302, 303, 304, while streets of elegant work of the Colonial
339. See Shops and Markets Victorian terraces abut Architect Edmund
pp200–201. modern high-rise flats and Blacket, it is scrupulously
factory warehouses. Statue of Hermes, modelled on the
This was once one of the For the visitor, the Nicholson Museum architecture of Cam-
more depressed areas of the suburb offers a wide bridge and Oxford.
inner city. In the 1920s, Surry range of ethnic cuisines, often It features intricate stone
Hills was a haunt of the razor at bargain prices. It is famed tracery, a clock tower with
gangs that terrorized inner- for the Lebanese and Turkish carved pinnacles, gargoyles
city Sydney. The 1940s slums restaurants that cluster near (one, in the quadrangle, repre-
were vividly described in Ruth the intersection of Cleveland sents a crocodile) and a
Park’s celebrated novels Poor and Elizabeth Streets. You will cloistered main quadrangle.
Man’s Orange and The Harp also find Indian, Chinese, Thai, The gem of the complex,
and probably Blacket’s finest
work, is the Great Hall at the
main building’s northern end.
This grandly sombre hall, with
its carved cedar ceiling and
stained-glass windows depic-
ting famous philosophers and
scientists, is often used for
public concerts as well as for
university ceremonies.
The Nicholson Museum of
antiquities, the natural history
Macleay Museum and the War
Memorial Art Gallery, which
houses the university’s art
collection, are all within the
grounds. They are open to the
Brett Whiteley Studio: former artist’s studio, now a museum public on most weekdays.
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 131

Visitors watch the experts as

they tenderize octopus and
squid in concrete mixers. As
well as fishmongers, there are
a number of fresh food shops,
several restaurants and a
seafood school – cost includes
tuition, seafood and wine.

Balmain 6
@ 433, 434, 442. See Shops and
Markets p203 and Four Guided
Walks pp142–3.

Balmain was once one of

Sydney’s most staunchly
working-class areas, with ship-
yards, a dry dock and repair
yards, a coal mine, numerous
rough-and-ready pubs and an
intimidating criminal element.
Its late 19th-century town hall,
post office, court house and
fire station in Darling Street
reflect the civic pride of the
Corner view of Badde Manors Café on Glebe Point Road, Glebe suburb in the Victorian era.
In recent years, the many
Glebe 4 thing from antique clocks to
New Age goods and chattels.
stone and timber cottages of
what had become a slum have
Map 3 A4. @ 431, 433. See Shops Glebe Market held every Sat- transformed into a charming,
and Markets p203. urday sells jewellery, second- bustling suburb that still retains
hand clothing and bric-a-brac. its village character, with inter-
The word “Glebe” means land esting shops, galleries, cafés,
assigned to a clergyman as restaurants and pubs.
part of his benefice. In 1789,
Sydney Fish The proximity of the Balmain
Governor Phillip granted Market 5 peninsula to the city and its
162 ha (400 acres) to Richard bohemian ambience may
Johnson, the First Fleet chap- Cnr Pyrmont Bridge Rd & Bank St, explain why many prominent
lain, and his wife Mary. Almost Pyrmont. Map 3 B2. Tel 9004 1100. writers – including novelist
all of the present suburb was @ 443, 501. # 7am–4pm daily. Kate Grenville and playwright
once part of that Glebe Estate. ¢ 25 Dec. 6 7 8 Call for details. David Williamson – have lived
Many of its streets wind down www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and worked here.
to the working harbour and See Shops and Markets pp202–3. The Saturday market, held
contain terrace houses with at St Andrews Congregational
Sydney wrought-iron “lace” in Every weekday, about 200 Church in Darling Street, is
varying states of repair. seafood retailers and dealers one of Sydney’s best. Antiques,
The once-grand residences arrive at this market’s private estate jewellery and ingenious
of the 19th-century élite were auction to bid for the art and craft items are on sale.
mostly towards the harbour previous day’s catch. It is sold
end of Glebe Point Road, with by Dutch auction, with prices
workers’ cottages clustered starting high and decreasing,
nearer Parramatta Road. Glebe which halves the sale time.
is still partly a gentrified The volume and variety of the
member of the café society, catch, including fish and sea-
although its proximity to the food makes this the most
Broadway shopping mall and diverse fish market after Tokyo.
its popularity with students A fair amount of this catch
from the nearby University of ends up, later in the morning,
Sydney have given it a more in the fish market’s six large
bustling atmosphere. retail outlets which, for the
It is densely populated and general public, are its main
lively, with many restaurants attraction. As well as fresh fish,
and cafés in all price ranges, these retailers sell smoked
traditional and trendy pubs, salmon and roe, sushi, mari-
good bookshops, an art-house nated baby octopus and many Imposing entrance to Balmain
cinema and shops selling every- other ready-to-eat delicacies. court house on Darling Street
132 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

now and the land subdivided

THE COLOURFUL FACES OF LUNA PARK for apartment living. Kirribilli,
The gateway to Luna Park is meaning “place for fishing”, is
the gaping mouth of a huge the most densely populated
laughing face, flanked by two suburb in Australia.
36-m (129-ft) Art Deco tow- The larger, more dominant of
ers. Between 1935 and 1945, the two houses is Admiralty
four successive canvas, wire House, built as a single-storey
and plaster faces fell to the residence in 1843. Between
ravages of time. Built in the 1885 and 1913 it served as the
1950s, the fifth face was residence of the commanding
replaced in 1973 with one officer of Britain’s Royal Navy
designed by the Sydney artist Pacific Squadron, which was
Martin Sharp. The seventh, based in Sydney. Fortifications
made in 1982, is now at the on the shoreline recall its mil-
Powerhouse Museum (see itary history. Now the official
pp100–101). Today’s face Sydney home of Australia’s
(1994) is made of poly- The gateway to Luna Park with governor-general, it is said that
urethane and fibreglass. its famous face even its shed could be consid-
ered the city’s best address.
In 1855, the charming Gothic
has since reopened, and entry Kirribilli House, with its steep
is free so you can just enjoy gables and decorative fretwork,
the atmosphere or buy a ticket was built in the grounds of
and catch the views from the Admiralty House. Today it is
Ferris Wheel. Las Vegas glitz the official Sydney residence
and 1940s Futurism are just two of Australia’s prime minister.
of the styles at one of Sydney’s
most treasured icons. The
old-style fun house Coney Nutcote 9
Island, Crystal Palace and the
gateway face are all heritage 5 Wallaringa Ave, Neutral Bay.
listed. The Big Top, a 2,000- Tel 9953 4453. g Hayes Street,
seat venue, hosts music, Neutral Bay. # 11am–3pm Wed–Sun.
dance and comedy acts. ¢ some public hols. & 6 8

One of the classics of Aust-

Kirribilli Point 8 ralian children’s literature,
Luna Park’s ferris wheel Snugglepot and Cuddlepie, was
Kirribilli Ave, Kirribilli. g Kirribilli published in 1918. Since then,
Luna Park 7 North Sydney. these two characters – known
as the “gumnut” babies along
1 Olympic Drive, Milsons Point. Tel The two houses Occupying with the cartoon characters Bib
9922 6644. # 11am–4pm Mon, this prominent headland, in and Bub – have been loved by
11am–10pm Fri–Sat, 10am–6pm Sun their delightful garden settings, countless young Australians.
(additional hours during school & are typical of the magnificent Nutcote was, for 44 years,
public hols). g Milsons Point. 7 homes in sprawling grounds the home of their creator, illus-
www.lunaparksydney.com that once ringed the harbour. trator and author May Gibbs.
Most have been demolished Saved from demolition then
This famous fun fair, built on
the site of former Harbour
Bridge construction workshops,
was modelled on Luna Park
at Coney Island, New York. It
opened in 1935 using rides
from a short-lived Luna Park
in South Australia. For the next
43 years it was one of the most
conspicuous landmarks on the
harbour foreshores. Except
during the compulsory
blackouts of World War II, its
brilliant illuminations were a
feature of the city’s night scene.
In 1979, seven people were
killed in a ghost train fire, a
tragedy that led to the park’s
immediate closure. The park Admiralty House and Kirribilli House, near Sydney Harbour Bridge
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 133

pines. Nearby is a monument

to a local newspaper proprietor
who, in 1902, defied bans on
daytime bathing and was
promptly arrested.
Every October Manly hosts
a great jazz festival (see p48).

North Head w
g Manly. Quarantine Station
Ghost Tours Bookings essential
(starting times vary). Tel 9977 5145.
www.qstation.com.au

The majestic cliffs of North

Shop façades featuring decorative gables along Manly’s Corso Head afford the finest views in
Sydney Harbour National
restored and refurbished in the to suggest a single excursion Park, providing vistas along
style of the 1930s, it opened to enjoy during your time in the coastline, across to Middle
in 1994 as an historic house the city, most Sydneysiders Harbour and towards the city.
museum. Visitors can view the would nominate a ferry ride to North Head is also the ideal
author’s painstakingly kept Manly. This narrow stretch of place for observing the
notebooks and other memo- land lying between the har- movements of harbour and
rabilia (including the table at bour and ocean was named by seagoing craft and especially
which she worked), as well as Governor Phillip, even before for seeing off the yachts at the
original editions of her books. the township of Sydney got its start of the annual Sydney to
There is a garden with views name, for the impressive Hobart race (see p49).
across the harbour and a shop bearing of the Aboriginal men. The Quarantine Station
that sells a range of May As the ferry pulls in to nestles just above Spring Cove
Gibbs’ souvenirs. Manly wharf you will notice on within the national park. Here,
the right many shops, restau- between 1832 and the 1960s,
rants and bars and on the left, many ships, with their crews
the tranquil harbourside beach and passengers, were quaran-
known as Manly Cove. tined to protect Sydneysiders
At the far end of Manly Cove from the spread of epidemic
is Oceanworld Manly, where diseases. More than 500 people
visitors can see reptiles, sharks died here, leading some to
and giant stingrays in an believe the area is haunted.
underwater viewing tunnel. Now a five-star hotel called
You can also dive with sharks, Q Station, the site, including
and details of Shark Xtreme its hospital, shower block and
are on Oceanworld’s website. morgue, can be explored on a
May Gibbs’ studio at Nutcote The Corso is a lively pedes- guided “ghost” tour. Countless
trian thoroughfare of souvenir migrants spent their first
shops and fast food outlets, months in Australia in this
Taronga Zoo 0 with a market held there on place of splendid isolation.
Sundays. The Corso leads to Many of its internees left
See pp134–5. Manly’s ocean beach, with its poignant messages and poems
promenade lined by towering carved in the sandstone.

Manly q
g Manly. Oceanworld Manly
West Esplanade. Tel 8251 7877. #
10am–5:30pm daily. ¢ 25 Dec. &
6 8 See Four Guided Walks
pp146–7. www.oceanworld.com.au

Long after Australia’s conver-

sion to the metric system, the
slogan “seven miles from
Sydney and a thousand miles
from care” is still current. It
refers to Manly and the 7-mile
(11-km) journey from Circular
Quay by harbour ferry. If asked First-class quarters at the Quarantine Station, North Head
134 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Taronga Zoo 0

This famous harbourside zoo is home

to almost 2,500 animals, with a special
emphasis on unique Australian wildlife.
Conspicuous bars and fences are absent,
with moats used to separate the
Red kangaroo wandering public from the curious
animal onlookers contained in environments closely
resembling their natural habitat. The zoo is involved
in the breeding of endangered animals, as well as in Elephant Breeding Facility
international efforts to ensure a Endangered Asian elephants
sustainable future for wildlife. have been bred at Taronga since
a small collection were brought
Backyard to Bush over from Thailand in 2006.
The precinct features a rain-
A th ol W
ha rf Ro ad forest habitat with pools, mud
wallows and scratching posts.
Br
ad
le
ys
He Lower
ad entrance
Ro
ad
ad
Ro
rf
ha
lW
0 metres 100 ho
At
0 yards 100

The platypus is one

of only three species of
egg-laying mammals.
Br
ad
ley
sH
ea
d
Ro

Common Wombat
ad

This ground-dwelling animal

is a powerful burrower able
to move quickly if disturbed. Sky Safari

It feeds on roots and has a Upper Cable Car Capral seal

entrance theatre
pouch for carrying its young.

STAR DISPLAYS
. Koala Walkabout
. Orang-utan
Rainforest

. QBE Free Flight Bird Upper Entrance

Show This edifice has greeted visitors since the opening in 1916. By
1917, more than half of Sydney’s population had paid a visit.
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 135

. Orang-utan VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Rainforest
Threatened by wide- Bradleys Head Rd, Mosman.
Tel 9969 2777. @ 238, 247,
spread destruction of
250. g Taronga Zoo. # 9am–
their natural habitat 5pm daily (last adm 4:30pm).
in the Sumatran and &6780-=
Borneo rainforests, www.zoo.nsw.gov.au
these primates are on
the world’s endan-
gered species list.

Ferry to Sky Safari

. QBE Free Flight
Circular Cable Car Bird Show
Quay In this spectacular
display, birds fly free
in an amphitheatre
Taronga overlooking the
Zoo harbour.

Meerkat
This southern African
mongoose always forages
in groups, with a guard African Waterhole
alert for signs of danger. The zoo re-creates the
environment of savannah
waterholes for giraffes, zebras
and pygmi hippopotami.
KEY TO ANIMAL ENCLOSURES
African Waterhole g Penguin t
Australia’s Nightlife 6 Platypus 3
Reptile World has Backyard to Bush r Rainforest Aviary 8
amphibians, inverte- Bear p Red panda d
brates and reptiles. Chimpanzee Park f Reptile World h
Creatures of the Saltwater crocodile 0
Wollemi q Seals and sea-lions y
Elephant Breeding Facility 7 Snow leopard s
Free Flight Bird Show o Taronga International
Gorilla Forest x Food Market l
Great Southern Oceans u Tasmanian devil 9
Jungle Cats e Wetlands 1
Koala Encounters 5 Wild Asia z
. Koala Walkabout Koala Walkabout j Wild Australia 2
Visitors can see the koalas in their Lion k Wombat 4
eucalypt habitat at tree level. The Meerkat a Yellow-footed
spiral ramp allows you to get close Orang-utan Rainforest c rock wallaby w
to feeding and sleeping animals. Otter i
136 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

savour the unusual peace

that descends on many
harbour beaches on an
endless sunny day. It is also
an ideal vantage point from
which to enjoy a pectacular
summer sunset or simply to
observe the coming and
going of ferries and the
meandering harbour traffic.
In the midst of this tranquil
setting, enhancing its charm,
stands Greycliffe House with
its decorative gables and
ornate chimney stacks. This
Victorian Gothic mansion was
Façade of Vaucluse House, with its garden and fountain completed in 1852 for WC
Wentworth’s daughter.
Vaucluse House e style and the house contains
furniture that belonged to the
Wentworth Rd, Vaucluse. Tel 9388 Wentworth family. A popular Watsons Bay t
7922. @ 325. # 9:30am–4pm Fri– tea house is in the grounds.
Sun (daily in Jan, NSW school hols & @ 324, 325. g Watsons Bay.
public hols). ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. See Four Guided Walks pp148–9.
& 6 7 limited. 8
As the base for the boats
Tradition has it that the most that take the pilots out to
riotous party colonial Sydney arriving ships, this pretty bay
ever saw took place on the has long been a vital part of
Vaucluse House lawns in the working harbour. It is also
1831. WC Wentworth and the home of Doyle’s famous
4,000 of his political cronies waterfront seafood restaurant,
gathered there to celebrate the long a magnet for Sydneysiders
recall to England of Governor and visitors alike.
Ralph Darling, the arch-enemy. Just up the hill and almost
WC Wentworth was a major opposite the bay on the ocean
figure in the colony, being one side is The Gap, a spectacular
of the first three Europeans to Greycliffe House, in the tranquil cliff with tragic associations.
cross the Blue Mountains (see grounds of Nielsen Park Many troubled people have
pp160–61). He was the son of taken a suicidal leap from this
a female convict and a physi- Nielsen Park r rugged cliff on to the wave-
cian forced to “volunteer” his lashed rocks below.
services to the new colony in @ 325. # Sunrise–10pm daily. It was here that the ill-fated
order to avoid conviction on ship Dunbar was wrecked in
a highway robbery charge. Part of the Sydney Harbour 1857, with the loss of all but
The younger Wentworth National Park, Nielsen Park, one of its 122 passengers and
became an author, barrister and with its grassy expanses, sandy crew. Treacherous conditions
statesman who stood for the beach and netted swimming had led to miscalculation of
Australian-born “currency” lads pool, is the perfect spot for a the ship’s distance from the
and lasses against the “sterling” family picnic. Here visitors can Heads. All hands were ordered
English-born. He lived here
with his family from 1829–53,
during which time he drafted
the Constitution Bill, giving
self-government to the state.
Vaucluse House was begun
in 1803 by Sir Henry Browne
Hayes, a knight of the realm
transported for kidnapping a
Quaker heiress. Sitting com-
fortably in 11 ha (27 acres) of
parkland, natural bush and
cultivated gardens, this Gothic
Revival house, with its many
idiosyncratic additions, resem-
bles a West Indian plantation
house. The interior and grounds
have been restored to 1840s View over Watsons Bay, looking southwest towards the city
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 137

The crescent-shaped Bondi Beach, Sydney’s most famous beach, looking towards North Bondi

on deck as The Gap’s rock eventually crumbled away, the wide in search of the perfect
walls loomed. The recovered present lighthouse was built. wave, and inline skaters hone
anchor is now set into the cliff Although designed by Colonial their skills on the promenade.
near the shipwreck site. Architect James Barnet, it was Despite a growing awareness
based on Greenway’s original of the dangers of sun expo-
and was illuminated for the sure (see p223) and an
first time in 1883. expansion of other cultural
preoccupations, beach life
still defines the lives of many
Bondi Beach u Australians, who regard it as
healthier than ever.
@ 333, 380, 381. See Four People seek out Bondi for
Guided Walks pp144–5. its trendy seafront cafés and
cosmopolitan milieu as much
This long crescent of golden as for the beach. The pavilion,
sand, so close to the city, has built in 1928 as changing
long been a mecca for the rooms, has been a community
sun and surf set (see pp54–5). centre since the 1970s. Note
Throughout the year, surfing that Bondi Beach itself is an
enthusiasts visit from far and alcohol-free zone.

The 1883 Macquarie Lighthouse

BONDI SURF BATHERS’ LIFE SAVING CLUB
overlooking the Pacific Ocean
The founding of the surf lifesaving club at Bondi Beach in
1906 gave impetus to the formation of other local clubs,
Macquarie and ultimately to a global movement. An early club
Lighthouse y member demonstrated his new lifesaving reel, designed
using hair pins and a cotton reel. Now updated, it is
@ 324, 325. 6 7 standard equipment on beaches worldwide. In 1938,
Australia’s largest surf rescue was mounted at Bondi,
This is the second lighthouse when more than 200 people were washed out to sea
on this windswept site that is by freak waves. Five died, but lifesavers rescued
attributed to the convict more than 180, establishing their highly
architect Francis Greenway dependable reputation.
(see p114). He supervised the
construction of the first tower,
which was completed in 1818
and described by Governor
Macquarie as a “noble magni-
ficent edifice”. The colony’s
first lighthouse, it replaced the
previous system of bonfires lit
up along the headland and
earned Greenway a conditional Bondi surf lifesaving team at the Bondi Surf Carnival, 1937
pardon. When the sandstone
138 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

Captain Cook’s
Landing Place i
Captain Cook Drive, Botany Bay
National Park, Kurnell. Tel 9668 2000.
@ 987. Toll Gate # 7am–7pm daily
(to 5:30pm Jun–Jul). Discovery Centre
# 11am–3pm Mon–Fri, 10am–
4:30pm Sat & Sun. ¢ 25 Dec. & 6
7 www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

Although difficult to get to,

visitors will find this place
worth the effort. It is, after all,
one of Australia’s most impor-
tant European historic sites.
Here James Cook, botanists
Daniel Solander and Joseph Pampas grass and banana plants in the garden at Elizabeth Farm
Banks and the crew of HMS
Endeavour landed on 29 April the importance of their con- Elizabeth Farm p
1770. Aboriginal peoples with servation; an interesting exhi-
spears were shot at. One, hit bition detailing Cook’s 70 Alice St, Rosehill. Tel 9635 9488.
in the legs, returned with a exploration of the area; and 4 Parramatta.  Parramatta or
shield to defend himself. an introduction to Aboriginal Granville. # 9:30am–4pm Fri–Sun
Nowadays people can cast customs and culture. (daily in Jan, NSW school hols &
a fishing line from the rock public hols). ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec. &
where the Europeans stepped 6 7 - 8 www.hht.net.au/
ashore. Nearby are the site of
Sydney Olympic museums
Park o
The discovery of fertile land
Homebush Bay. Tel 9714 7958/ at Parramatta, and the harves-
7888.  Olympic Park. Visitors ting of its first successful grain
Centre (1 Showground Rd). # 9am– crop in 1790, helped save the
5pm daily. ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec, 26 fledgling colony from starva-
Dec, 1 Jan. 8 7 - S www. tion and led to the rapid
sydneyolympicpark.nsw.gov.au development of the area.
This zone was the location
Once host to the 27th Summer of several of Australia’s first
Olympic Games and Paralym- colonial land grants. In 1793,
pic Games, Sydney Olympic John Macarthur, who became
Park is situated at Homebush a wealthy farmer and sheep
Bay, 14 km (8.5 miles) west breeder, was granted 40 ha
of the city centre. Visitors can (100 acres) of land at Parra-
follow a self-guided walk or matta. He named the property
buy a ticket for a guided tour after his wife and this was to
Cook’s Obelisk, overlooking Botany to access venues such as the be Elizabeth’s home for the
Bay, Captain Cook’s Landing Place Showground and the Super- rest of her life. Macarthur was
Dome. The interactive “Exp- often absent from the farm as
a well where, Cook recorded, lore, Telstra Stadium Tour” the centre of his wool opera-
a shore party “found fresh gives a taste of some of the tions had moved to Camden.
water sufficient to water the stadium’s best-loved sporting Part of the house, a simple
ship” and a monument which moments. For nature lovers, stone cottage built in 1793, still
marks the first recorded Euro- there is a tour of the five wet- remains and it is the oldest
pean burial in Australia. lands of the Bicentennial
There are also monuments Park. You can buy tickets for
to Solander, Banks and Cook, tours at the Visitor’s Centre.
but it is the peaceful ambience Other facilities at the park
that is most impressive. Now include the Aquatic Centre,
part of Botany Bay National with a kids waterpark, and
Park, Captain Cook’s Landing the Tennis Centre, where you
Place has lovely walks, some can play in the footsteps of
accessible to wheelchairs, such greats as Lleyton Hewitt.
where visitors may roam and There are picnic areas and
observe the flora which led to cafés throughout the park and
the naming of Botany Bay. on the fourth Sunday of every
The Discovery Centre in the month you can sample fresh
park focuses on a number of produce and gourmet food at
themes: the bay’s wetlands and the Boulevard Market. John Macarthur, 1766–1834
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 139

European building in Australia. acres) of land at Parramatta on of the other nine graves is
Over the next 50 years, it which to start a farm, along unknown. The first recorded
developed into a substantial with a hut, grain for burial was of a child
home with many features of a sowing, vital farming on 31 January 1790.
typical Australian homestead. tools, two sows and One prominent grave
Simply furnished to the period six hens. He success- is that of churchman
of 1820–50, with reproductions fully planted and Samuel Marsden,
of paintings and other posses- harvested a wheat who earned the title
sions, it is now a museum that crop with his wife of the “flogging
strongly evokes the original Elizabeth’s help. parson” during his
inhabitants’ life and times. She was the first time as magistrate
female convict to general because of
be emancipated in Medicine chest (c.1810), his harsh judgments.
New South Wales. Experiment Farm The merchant Robert
In 1791, they were Campbell (see p66)
rewarded with a grant of 12 and the father of explorer
ha (30 acres), the colony’s first William Charles Wentworth
land grant. Arthur Phillip, (see p136), D’Arcy Wentworth,
governor of the day, called it are also buried here.
Experiment Farm.
In 1793, Ruse sold this farm
to surgeon John Harris for £40.
Old Government
The date of the cottage is not House f
The kitchen, Hambledon Cottage certain, but it is believed to
be early 1830s. The woodwork Parramatta Park (entry by Macquarie
is Australian red cedar and St gates), Parramatta. Tel 9635
Hambledon the cottage is furnished accord- 8149.  Parramatta. # 10am–
Cottage a ing to an 1838 inventory. 4:30pm Tue–Fri, 10:30am–4pm Sat,
Sun & most public hols. ¢ Good
Cnr of Hassall St & Gregory Fri, 25 Dec. & 7 limited. 8
Place, Parramatta. Tel 9635 6924. St John’s www.oldgovernmenthouse.com
 Parramatta. # 11am–4pm Cemetery d
Thu–Sun. ¢ Good Fri, 25, 26 Dec. The central block of Old
&78 O’Connell St, Parramatta. Tel 9635 Government House is the
5904.  Parramatta. 6 7 oldest intact public building in
This delightful cottage, with Australia. This elegant brick
its walls of rendered and This walled cemetery – the structure, plastered to resemble
painted sandstock, was built oldest European cemetery in stone, was built by Governor
in 1824 as the retirement Australia – houses the graves Hunter in 1799 on the site of
home for Penelope Lucas, of many convicts and settlers a cottage constructed in 1790
governess to the Macarthur who arrived on the First Fleet for Governor Phillip. Wings to
daughters. It is set in a park in 1788. The oldest grave that the side and rear were added
containing trees brought to can be identified is the flat between 1812 and 1818. The
Australia from as early as sandstone slab simply Doric porch, added in 1816,
1817 by John Macarthur. inscribed, “H.E. Dodd 1791”. has been attributed to Francis
Visitors can see rooms Henry Edward Dodd, known Greenway (see p114).
restored to the period of to be Governor Phillip’s butler, Australia’s finest collection of
1820–50. An 1830 Broadwood was the tenth person buried in early 19th-century furniture is
piano is one of the furniture the cemetery, but the location now housed inside.
exhibits. The kitchen has
walls of convict-made bricks
and contains original
appliances and utensils.

Experiment Farm
Cottage s
9 Ruse St, Parramatta. Tel 9635 5655.
 Harris Park. # 10:30am–3:30pm
Tue–Fri, 11am–3:30pm Sun & public
hols. ¢ Good Fri, 18–31 Dec. & 6
7 8 (Groups must book in advance).
www.nationaltrust.com.au

When his sentence expired

in 1789, convict farmer James
Ruse was given 0.6 ha (1½ The drawing room of Old Government House, Parramatta
 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A 141

FOUR GUIDED WALKS

S ydney’s temperate climate
and natural beauty make
it an ideal city for walk-
ing. The following walks have
been chosen for their distinct
and hat and wearing a reliable
sunscreen. In Sydney’s national
parks and bushland all the
indigenous flora and fauna is
protected. The best sign of
character; they all capture a appreciation is to leave the
view of the essential Sydney. bush as you found it. The Tips
You can follow the paths that for Walkers provide practical
trace the headlands and inlets Mural on a Manly information about each walk,
surf shop
around Watsons Bay; enjoy listing accessibility by bus,
an invigorating clifftop walk at Bondi; train or ferry and estimated distance
catch glimpses of the original land- of the walk, along with scenic rest
scape in Manly’s unspoilt bushland; areas, picnic spots, cafés and restau-
or explore the narrow streets of his- rants en route. Tourism NSW’s Infor-
toric Balmain. Three of the walks mation Line (see p218) and www.syd-
incorporate ocean or harbourside neywalkingtours.com.au give details
beaches, so be prepared in warmer of the many accompanied walking
weather by packing a swimsuit, towel tours available throughout Sydney.

 







.BOMZ
SEEPP 








#BMNBJO 7BVDMVTF
BOE
8BUTPOT
 #BZ
SEEPP 
SEEPPn





 #POEJ
UP



$MPWFMMZ


 SEEPP 

BM
B


B O ES





$ YB O

M
F

"  KEY


 Walk route
0 kilometres 3
Metroad route
0 miles 2

A lookout rising high above the treacherous waters of the Pacific Ocean at the Gap (see p148)
142 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

A Two-Hour Walk Around Balmain

Historic Balmain village was named after William
Balmain, a ship’s surgeon on the First Fleet. In 1800, he
was granted rights to 223 ha (550 acres) of the penin-
sula, which he later sold for a paltry 5 shillings in a
dubious business transaction. From the mid-1800s, much
of the land was subdivided for housing to support the
then flourishing mining and maritime industries. Today,
grand colonial and Victorian buildings stand side by side
with tiny workers’ cottages, adding variety to every street.
to Ewenton 6 (c.1854). Past
the park, Hampton Villa 7 at
:VSVMCJO

12B Grafton Street was home 1PJOU
to state premier Henry Parkes. Colourful shopfront on Darling
Turn right into Ewenton Street, Balmain
Street and then left into Wallace

%
Street, with its variety of early 30
"

Australian architecture. The 4"

6*
rough stone home at No. 1 is -0

called the Railway Station as

its narrow frontage makes it
resemble one. The 4OBJMT

charming Clontarf 8 #BZ
is at No. 4, while
Maitland House 9
The Waterman’s Cottage 3 has a symmetry Birchgrove Park
8
)
worth a second 5 "
3

& 3'
0

5 ) &
ç ç &


çç
4&

East Balmain glance. Return 5&
3 3 "$ &
5
3
3

45 4 0

"
%

Begin from the Darling Street to Darling 5
/
%

& & * /"

45

3 &
$0

45 3% 7
Wharf 1. By the 1840s, when Street.
3

' & 0
7&

&&

3

(
3

5


4

#"--"45

the ferry service began, ship-
3*7&

53

#"

5
&&

&&
yards dotted these foreshores.

4
5

53
53

5 4 5
&


5
&&

&
& &

The sandstone building at No. 3


& &
5

45


3 3
"
%



&& 4
5

45
10 Darling Street 2, once the



3
0
3&
&5





8
/5
3






- -



&


45 41

30 5
Dolphin Hotel then the Ship- ,
5

&



&&

3*


3 $


0
53

.

7


/(
&&5

0 4

)


4

wright’s Arms, was a watering 3 4

4

( "

453

1
8

.
"

) 0 *1
0

$
.

hole for sailors and ferrymen. 5) (

(

*3 : .035
#":
# #"
&3
45
. 5&

1"3,
On the opposite corer is The
" 33

&5
3&
$2 "

&
/

53
&5

5

ç4
Waterman’s Cottage (1841) 3,
6 $&

&&

"

3
45

4

53
3*

home to Henry McKenzie, &5
53
&

3& &5
6
5

$6

50
&&

45 3&
3&&

&&

whose boat ferried residents 35

45
/
5

*4

/53


45

5
35

45

ç
to and from Sydney Town. &5 &
3

3& &
&&

3
4)0
5)

45
308

5
5

Turn left into Weston Street

ç ç4

&&
5
3
*1

&5

Balmain
/03

0
$)

3& 3
*--

45
"

and walk through the Illoura Fire Station 45 /

63

%

0

1)

5




$)

&

:

Reserve for views of the city -" &4



&(

$

$6 .
--

"
and Darling Harbour. Leave the
-

35
5)


53&&5

*4

35
$0

&
#
.0

park via William and Johnston

5

1
%
4

.
(6&


4

"

Streets, stopping in the latter

3

3
'0

--&8&--:/
45
0

%"
"

to view Onkaparinga 4, the 3-

%
.0/5"

*/(

Court

colonial residence at No. 12. House

4 5
3&&
5

When building started in 1860, ( -"%450/&
(-"% 450/ &







mussel shells from Aboriginal 1"3,

feasts stood in mounds upon

the harbour foreshore beyond.
Turn left onto Darling Street
then right into Duke Street.
Gilchrist Place then leads down The London Hotel
to Mort Bay Reserve 5. Ship’s
propellers stand as monuments
to the area’s working past. A
path leads up to The Avenue’s
timber workers’ cottages.
Back on Darling Street, turn
left down Killeen Street. Take
the path across Ewenton Park The domestic grandeur of Louisa Road
 F O U R G U I D E D WA L K S 143

Historic Links
Sydney’s oldest extant lock-up,
The Watch House (1854) 0 at
No. 179 Darling Street, has
been restored, but a ghostly
female form remains. Further
along, enjoy a drink at The
London Hotel (1870) q, where
the balcony stools are made
of old-fashioned tractor seats.
After the roundabout, visit
St Andrew’s Church w before
losing yourself to the book-
shops, cafés and delicatessens
of Balmain. Every Saturday,
Balmain Market fills the Distant views of the city and Sydney Harbour Bridge from Snails Bay
:VSVMCJO

churchyard (see p203).
1PJOU At the shops’ far end, the Balmain to Birchgrove There is a wealth of interest
Victorian Post Office Retrace your steps to Rowntree in the homes that follow: a
-

(1887) e and neighbour- Street. Turn left and wander tiny porch, Victorian entrance
ing Court House r reflect down to Birchgrove (about 10 tiles, ornate iron lace – plus
1880s Sydney’s prosperity. minutes’ walk). From Birch- occasional glimpses of water
The Town Hall t dome was grove shops u, take Cameron frontage and private moorings.
removed during World War II Street left and Grove Street At the road’s end, the reserve
for fear of air raids. Across the right, to Birchgrove Park i at Yurulbin Point p marks the
street is the Fire Station y and Snails Bay. Walk down mouth of Parramatta River. A
(1894). Set on the crest of a Rose Street to Louisa Road. fishing nook on its eastern cor-
hill, its horse-drawn vehicles Two of the most notable ner is a perfect vantage point
always travelled downhill on homes are Nos. 12 and for taking in the city skyline
their outward journey. 14, Keba (1878) and and passing harbour traffic.
Vidette (1876) o, where
deep verandas and iron-
8
)"
3'
lace balconies hint at

1
0*






3
0"
colonial opulence. A
: /5 %
&
&
/


30
poem in praise of the
"%
%


45

nearby park is
3&
&5


inscribed on a plaque
Balmain War at Keba’s entrance.
Memorial Amid Vidette’s formal
greenery, a
deep well is
5IBNFT

.PSU
still fed by Shops nestled in the quiet
4USFFU #BZ a natural Birchgrove village u
Mort Bay spring.
Reserve
TIPS FOR WALKERS
("
--
/*
5
&

*.
$)
&

Starting point: Darling Street

3

0-

03

%BSMJOH
5
4

40

( *-$ ) 3 *4 4USFFU

&

Wharf.
5

1-" $& 5

&

/

%6
3&

45

,&

&

Length: 5.5 km (31/2 miles).

4

"7&

53
/

-

45

4
&
&8

&&

Getting there: Ferries regularly

7

53
45"

&&5
*

"
37

5
$001&3

5)

&&

4 5 3



&
"5

$,

&
"

leave Circular Quay for Darling

8

45
&

7&
%6 53&

-*/(
"

8&

Street Wharf. The 442 bus from

/$ &5

%"3
4

+0)/
-(

3&&5
"/

1"6-
45
45
% "5

6/*0
0

the Queen Victoria Building stops

$

45

/
450/

$)&5

/
45

5
1&"340/
4
"%0-1)64

in Darling Street. To return, there

&5

+6#*-&
&
1-











4
53&

453 &&5 "$

is a 15-minute ferry ride at hourly
5

45

&8&/50/ &
8*--*".


453&& 5

*/(
45
45&1) &/






453& &5

4

8"--"$&
45 1"3, )04,

&%8"3%
45

intervals from Birchgrove (pick up

5
3&&5
-
0 /

a schedule at Circular Quay).
çç453&&5

&/5

Alternatively, take Bus 441 from

&8

-
1 F B DP DL
Grove Street (Snails Bay) back to
( 3 " ' 5 0 /
453&&5
1PJOU
the city (weekdays only).
KEY Stopping-off points: Darling
Street, in particular, has many
Walk route good delicatessens, patisseries,
Viewpoint restaurants and cafés. Places to
picnic include Mort Bay Reserve,
Bus stop Gladstone Park, Birchgrove Park
0 metres 250
Ferry boarding point and Yurulbin Point.
0 yards 250
144 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

A Two-Hour Walk from Bondi Beach to Clovelly

This invigorating oceanside and clifftop walk explores
the beautiful shoreline and surfing beaches of eastern
Sydney. The local colour along this scenic trail is at its
most vibrant at weekends, when people flock to the
cafés and beaches. The Victorian cemetery at the walk’s
end bears witness to Sydney’s multicultural heritage.

Drive leaving the traffic and

noise of Campbell Parade
behind as you reach Sydney’s
most famous beach, Bondi.
Bondi’s popularity dates back
to the 1880s. Although daylight
bathing was banned at the
time, the beach was considered Bronte’s swimming baths
a fashionable place to stroll.

% & / ) " .




4 5 3 & & 5

Pool at North Bondi Beach Bondi trams came into use Bondi to Bronte
shortly after and, by the time Veer left off Notts Avenue
A Seaside Community bathing restrictions were lifted as the path drops down
Walk north along Campbell in 1902, the red and white and skirts sharp rock
Parade 1, passing a colourful trams were filled with beach- formations, the result of
array of hotels, beachwear goers. Just ahead you will see years of erosion. Take the
shops and lively cafés that give Bondi Pavilion 3. Built in 1928 steep steps to Mackenzies
the street a raffish to replace a modest timber Point lookout 6 on the
atmosphere. The building, it was designed headland. The magnifi-
stylish Gelato Bar on a grand scale and origin- cent view stretches for
at No. 140 makes an ally housed a ballroom, 180 degrees from Ben

"4)-& :


45
indulgent pit-stop. gymnasium, restau- Buckler in the north to
Keep walking until the rant, café, Turkish Malabar in the dis-
Hotel Bondi 2, the baths and open-air tant south.
parade’s most signif- Statue of lifesaver theatre. Although
)&8- &55

icant building and near Bondi Pavilion decidedly less glam-



453& &5

easily spotted by its orous today, the #"
:7
*& 8

45

pretty clock tower. Opened as complex is still a thriving local #3
0/
a first-class hotel in 1920, it community centre hosting 5&


#30/5&
initially stood quite alone by cultural events. Photographs Bronte House 1"3,

what was then a bush-fringed inside recall the romance of ("3%:/ &


453&& 5

beach. Turn right, crossing the Bondi Beach in earlier times.

&7"/4





453&&5

30
,0 "%
/
road in front of the hotel, and Next to the Pavilion is the :"
3 & & 5
"7&/6&

walk down to Queen Elizabeth home of arguably Australia’s

oldest surf life saving club,
. " 4



4 5

TIPS FOR WALKERS the Bondi Surf Bathers 4 (see ."$ 1)& 340 /












453 &&5
p137). Follow the sweep of
Starting point: Campbell the beach to its southern end.
Parade, southern end. Climb a flight of steps to con-



4 5 3 & & 5

53"'"-( "3

-
4 5



5 ) 0

Length: 4 km (21/2 miles). tinue on Notts Avenue, above

Getting there: Take the train to Bondi Baths 5 and alongside
Bondi Junction, then Bus 380 to the Bondi Icebergs clubhouse. #06/%"3:













453&&5
Bondi Beach. Bus 339 runs from Members of the Swimming
" 3 % & /

$-*'50/



30"%

Clovelly Beach to Circular Quay. Club must swim every Sunday #06/%"3:





#-"$,800%

Waverley Cemetery is open from during the winter regardless

,&*5)



453&&5

#6
"7&

3/
8am to dusk every day. of the weather. *&








Stopping-off points: Public
4
53 463'4*%&
"7&

&&
toilets, showers and food and 5

refreshments are available at $ - 0 7 & - - :

30
Bondi, Tamarama and Bronte "%


Beaches. Take-away cuisine can
.&-304&





1"3"%&
be bought along Bondi’s
Campbell Parade as the walk KEY
begins. Tamarama’s beach café Walk route
serves refreshing drinks. In warm
weather, make the most of four Viewpoint
of Sydney’s best beaches by Bus stop
packing your swimming gear. Tamarama Surf Life Saving Club,
at the beach’s northern end Parking
 F O U R G U I D E D WA L K S 145

Bronte to Waverley

6&

%

Continue down Bronte Road

30"
&/
towards the southern end of

"7
&

8 Bronte Beach. After passing

6

"

3/
/

5
:
&3
Bronte’s cafés, walk through
&&

"

7&

*5"3
4

53

30


)"
$6

"

3-




"7


4 #3 45 the car park and follow the

"*
&8 *(

45 &/ */

8
)5 (4
road uphill, through a cutaway

*-
3& *4

6 0
&

&5 /

.

originally dug for trams. As the

3

":

%

road winds through the cutting
6-
/
-&

(0

and veers right, take the steps

Bondi Pavilion
(

1

"3
3"
.
through Calga Reserve. Walk

# 0 6
) Bondi Hotel 4(

"5
%&

"

"%&
-- &

down Trafalgar Street to the
3"

-&7



Waverley Cemetery q.
1"

45

3&

"7 &

"3%
&5
-" In grand displays of Edward-

/6&
-

.3

0$
ian and Victorian monumental
&-

,

1#

"
7& #POEJ
#BZ masonry, English, Italian and
$ ".

/6
&
Irish residents have been laid
Resume your to rest. Among notable Aust-
'3
"
/
$*
walk, passing through Marks ralians buried here are writers
-

4





4 /0 Park into rocky Mackenzies Henry Lawson and Dorothea
53 55
&&
4
Bay and over the next head- Mackellar; Fanny Durack, the

"7

5
#0/%*
land and down to Tamarama
&/6

30
"%
Bay 7. In 1906–11, this beach
&

8*-("




was the unlikely home of

4 5
Wonderland City – a rowdy fun
'-&5$)&3







fair, boasting a roller coaster.
453&&5
Across the beach and park,
."3,4
-"

."3,4

climb the steps to Tamarama
-

1"3,

Marine Drive. Follow the road

&


"7

$)
3- 0
around to the slopes of Bronte
&
("

1"
$*
' *$
" 7 &

.BDLFO[JFT
Park 8, once part of Bronte
#BZ
Estate. To explore Bronte
5"

.
"3
".
" Gully 9, and glimpse Bronte Irish Memorial, Waverley Cemetery
House 0, continue away from


."3*/

the beach. Take the track that first woman to win an Olympic
&

%3

follows the creek into a valley, gold medal (in 1912), and do
&
%3

. " 3*/ passing beneath a canopy of the Australian crawl swimming
/5&
#30 fig and flame trees. The water- stroke; and aeronautical pio-
/FMTPO
fall was once a natural feature neer Lawrence Hargrave.
#BZ
of the ornamental gardens The Irish Memorial honours
%

designed for Bronte Estate. the 1798 Irish Rebellion and
The steps on your left lead its leader Michael Dwyer, who
to Bronte Road and Bronte was transported to Australia
House. The mixture of Gothic for his part in the uprising.
and Swiss styling was the in- Leave the cemetery at the
spiration of the original owner, southern end. Walk through
architect Mortimer Lewis (see Burrows Park, hugging the






45 p121). Today it is owned by coast, to Eastbourne Avenue,
the municipal council and is which leads to the walk’s end
leased as a private residence. at Clovelly Beach w.

453&&5













0 $ & " /





4 5 3 & & 5

&"
45#
0 63
-
/ &
"7&
#633084
1"3,

$MPWFMMZ
#BZ

0 metres 500

0 yards 500 Lookout at Mackenzies Point, a popular spot for watching surfers 6
146 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

A Three-Hour Walk Around Manly

This walk takes in the holiday atmosphere of downtown
Manly and its splendid surf beach, before passing along
quieter shorelines and clifftop streets, and through
unspoilt bushland replete with native flora and fauna. It
features marvellous views, the commanding architecture
of the historic building that was formerly St Patrick’s Sem-
inary, and the charm of Collins Beach and Fairy Bower.

Classical Revival Style. In 1926,

it replaced the original New Houses rising above Fairy Bower
Brighton, built in 1880 as the
resort’s first attraction. Bower, passing by homes of
Head towards the rolling surf diverse architectural styles,
and sweeping sands of Manly from Spanish Mission to

40
Beach 3 then continue south Neo-Georgian. Turn left

65
along the promenade. From into College Street,

)





0
the 1950s-style Surf Pavilion, then right into 0
3
4

follow Marine Parade walkway Reddall Street,

$

around to Cabbage Tree Bay. and left 5

)
&

The pretty area around the again

rock pool was named Fairy New
Bower 4 for the delicate wild- Brighton
flowers and maidenhair ferns Hotel

%"
that once grew on the hill-

3-
&:
side. Beyond the rock 3

.BOMZ
8IBSG /&

Brass band plays in The Corso pool, continue on the 63

) #

pathway around to .BOMZ
"4

Shelly Beach 5, a

/ "%&


From Harbour to Ocean $PWF
Start at Manly Wharf 1.This secluded scuba diving 1-
"
suburb was little more than a and snorkelling spot, &4


cosy fishing village until 1852, which is also ideal
8

0
when entrepreneur Henry Gil- for child swimmers.
4#
0

Detail on the New

45

0
&"

The 1920s beach kiosk Brighton Hotel

3/
bert Smith’s vision of a resort

&

"
&

similar to fashionable Brighton has now been stylishly

0
6

3

/

7&

in his native England started to restored and converted into

"

45
7&

take shape. The ferry service the smart Le Kiosk restaurant.

$0

3

&&
/

began in 1855, operating from

0

5
*4
%

the same spot in use today. Shelly Beach to the former -

%

"-
"

45

4)
Leaving Manly Cove, cross St Patrick’s Seminary "3
6

.
"
35

The Esplanade and walk down Across the park, take the steps




4

The Corso, a pedestrian mall. to your left to Shelly Beach

53
&&

At the end of The Corso, to the Headland. A path further left -JUUMF

5

.BOMZ

left, stands the New Brighton loops around the headland. $PWF
Hotel 2 in striking Egyptian Viewing platforms 6 overlook
the vast South Pacific Ocean.
TIPS FOR WALKERS Take the carpark exit into -
Bower Street. Follow the road -JUUMF
-
Starting point: Manly Wharf .BOMZ

as it rounds high above Fairy 1PJOU
Length: 7.5 km (41/2 miles).
Getting there: Regular ferry and
Manly Fast Ferry services depart
from Circular Quay.
Stopping-off points: The wide
range of fresh food counters at
Manly Pier make it an ideal place
to stock up on picnic fare.
Restaurants and cafés line The
Corso and Manly Beach
Promenade. Le Kiosk at Shelly
Beach offers the choice of a
smart restaurant, barbecue or
snack bar. In warm weather,
come prepared with a swimsuit,
hat, towel and sunscreen.
The clear waters of sheltered Shelly Beach 5
 F O U R G U I D E D WA L K S 147

into Addison Road. Opposite

the Victorian buildings at Nos.
97–99 and 95, a lane into Fairy
Bower Road leads to views of
the former St Patrick’s Semin-
ary, now the International
College of Tourism and Hotel
Management 7. Both Roman-
esque and Neo-Gothic archi-
tecture are in evidence in this
1885 edifice, built only after
much deliberation by an essen-
tially Protestant government.
Leave Fairy Bower Road by
Vivian Street to turn left into
Darley Road and arrive at the The former St Patrick’s Seminary, now the International College of Tourism 7
seminary building. Just oppo-
site, the site of the former North Head Reserve Reserve. Follow the right-hand
Archbishop’s House, once At the top of Darley Road, fork (leading to the Institute of
known as the Cardinal’s turn right beneath the Parkhill Police Management) onto Collins

Palace, is being Sandstone Arch 8 into North Beach Road down through
45
&:

redeveloped. Head bushland alive with bird calls

/&

and native lizards. Paperbarks,

smooth-barked apple trees and

$BCCBHF banksias are some of the native
3&

5SFF
#BZ flora growing in abundance.

-
%%

& &5
"-

53 At the road’s end, follow the

4
-

&5 track to your right across two

45

3&
3&

5

4 footbridges, then down steps
&5

'
"
%
45
*' & 3

$-




3
0
#08
3&
&5 to Collins Beach 9. A stone

/
Le Kiosk
cairn between the second foot-
5

40
30

*
&&

%
"%

%
453

"
&(
&
bridge and the beach marks
--
where Governor Arthur Phillip

$0


#0
'" & 3

was speared by the Aboriginal

8
*3
3
:
%
)

Wil-ee-ma-rin after a misunder-

*(

4:%/&:
)

standing. The quiet waterfall

)"3#063

4
53

International College of / "5 * 0 / " - and dense bushland make it

&&

possible to imagine this beach

30

1"3,
5

Tourism and Hotel

"

Management in pre-colonial days.

%

5 %"3
& -& :




3&






45















3 0 " Leave via a small set of stone



%
steps at the right-hand end of
the beach which lead to a foot-
path, then out into Stuart Street.
Parkhill
Sandstone Arch
Back to the Present
For memorable harbour views,
%

follow the direction of Stuart

30 "

4:%/&:
)"3#063 Street through Little Manly
/ "5 * 0 / " -
Point Reserve, passing by the
)

"$

1"3,
baths of Little Manly Cove 0.
#&

If you are reluctant to end this

4

/

*
--
$0 charming walk, turn left and
proceed to the end of Addison

Road. Manly Point Peace Park

offers a quiet place to take in
KEY
a panorama of the distant city.
Return down Addison Road,
Walk route making your way back to the
Viewpoint wharf via Stuart Street and the
East Esplanade. With its boat
Ferry boarding point sheds and bleached timber
Manly Fast Ferry boarding point yacht clubs, the East Esplanade
Park has a nautical amosphere
Parking and is a relaxing place to
meander. Continue past the
0 metres 250 attractions of the amusement
Collins Beach 9 on the edge of pier to Manly Wharf, which
0 yards 250 Sydney Harbour National Park was your starting point.
148 S Y D N E Y A R E A B Y A R E A

A Three-Hour Walk in Watsons Bay and Vaucluse

Tracing the perimeters of spectacular South Head, reserve, and then turn right
this walk touches on the area’s colonial connections into Cliff Street. Passing a row
and takes in a variety of ocean and harbourside terrain, of weatherboard cottages on
from headlands with sweeping views and crashing waves, your left, follow the street to
to secluded coves, white sandy beaches and the streets its end and onto Camp Cove
Beach 6. It was here in 1788
of one of Sydney’s most desirable neighbourhoods. that Captain Arthur Phillip
first stepped ashore after
Jacob’s Ladder 3. From here, leaving Botany Bay to
follow the descending path, explore the coastline.
arriving at the jutting stony
ledges of The Gap 4. The Camp Cove to
Dunbar’s anchor is here set Watsons Bay
into concrete, while salvaged Take the wooden steps
personal effects are displayed at the northern end
at the Australian National Mari- of the cove to
time Museum (see pp94–5). make the 40-
Taking the steps down from minute return
The Gap, bear right into the walk to South
entrance of Sydney Harbour
National Park. This single-lane
roadway leads through natural
Signal Station 2 at Dunbar Head bushland into HMAS Watson
Military Reserve. Follow the
Macquarie Lighthouse to road up to visit the Naval
Camp Cove Memorial Chapel 5. A large
The start of this walk is clear window inside the
majestic Macquarie chapel offers spectac-
Lighthouse (1883) 1. A ular views of North
copy of the country’s Head and the Pacific
first lighthouse built in Ocean. Resume Nudist Lady Bay Beach
1818 (see p137), it stands your walk by
on the same site. taking the
Take the walk north- road out
wards, passing by the of the
Signal Station 2 follow- Bust, Macquarie
ing Old South Head Lighthouse 1
Road. Before the station
was built in 1848, a flag was
hoisted to warn the colony of
ships entering the harbour.
Continue along the footpath,
where a plaque marks the
location of Australia’s worst
maritime disaster. It was here
that the migrant ship Dunbar
crashed onto the rocks in a
gale in 1857 (see pp136–7).
The only survivor was hauled
Vaucluse House
to safety up the treacherous
cleft in the cliff face known as

KEY
Walk route

Viewpoint

Bus stop

Ferry boarding point

Doyle’s well-known restaurant at Watsons Bay 8
 F O U R G U I D E D WA L K S 149

onto a suspension bridge hung

across the waters of tranquil
4PVUI
)FBE
- Parsley Bay 0. Crossing the
bridge, follow the pathway
between two houses to arrive
on Fitzwilliam Road. Continue
right along Fitzwilliam Road,
turning left into Wentworth
Road to reach the extravagant
Vaucluse House q, surrounded
Naval Memorial
Chapel
by exotic gardens (see p136).
:




3&4&37& To finish your walk, make
8"540/
your way along Coolong Road
to Nielsen Park (see p136)
Suspension bridge across Parsley Bay 0 and Shark Bay w. Protected
from its namesake by a netted
Head. Above the steps are enclosure, the natural setting
signs of colonial defences: a and safe waters of this beach
firing wall with rifl slots; a make it a favourite for picnics.
cannon lying further along.
45

$-
*''

After passing Lady Bay Beach,

4:%/&:



)"3#063

you will reach Hornby Light-

/ " 5 * 0 / " -



1 " 3 ,

house 7, which marks the

45
3&
&5

harbour’s entrance. Retrace

your steps to Camp Cove

Dunbar’s
Anchor
Beach. Climb the western-end
$-07&--: stairs to Laings Point, a defence
8BUTPOT 453&&5
#BZ post in World War II. A net
&

stretching across the harbour

1 & 5 0 6 /

" 7 & / 6

&



%

mouth was anchored here to

1
."3*/&

5 )&
("1
1"3, prevent enemy ships entering.
Follow Pacific Street to Cove
-

.003
&
45

Street, then along to Marine
&5
0

Parade and Wharf Beach in

45

)
0-%

3&

Watsons Bay 8 (see pp136–7).

45


--

5
#&

&

Named after Robert Watson of

&

4 0 6 5

36
3

5

44
#:
4

& - -
#& -" )
the First Fleet’s Sirius, this was

&3

"7 &
once first port of call for ships
)

Dramatic rock cleft known as

%

.:"--

entering the harbour. Nearby, Jacob’s Ladder 3 near The Gap
)&

$".# "7&
3*%(&
"%

"7 & /
6& Doyle’s restaurant offers sea-

3

food with a view. Follow the TIPS FOR WALKERS

0

3 0 " %

parade past the baths and tea
"%

, * / ( 4

rooms. Pilot boats 9 moored

Starting point: Macquarie

7
(&0
close by guide cruise and con- Lighthouse.
%

*--"

3
30 (&4

"%
30 "

tainer ships into the harbour. Length: 8 km (5 miles).

(&

$ ) 3 * 4 5 * 4 0 /

"7&/

1"3, Getting there: Take Bus 324

)* ()

Watsons Bay to Vaucluse

(4

from Circular Quay, or Bus 387

-
,*/

Continue to secluded Gibsons from Bondi Junction. Return by

6&

3 0 "%

Beach, taking the footpath left Bus 325 from Nielsen Park.
through native shrubbery, then Stopping-off points: There are
right onto Hopetoun Avenue. public toilets and showers at


"%

Turn into The Crescent, trac- Camp Cove, Watsons Bay, Parsley
30

ing the curve of this exclusive Bay and Nielsen Park. Food and
%

&"
street around to Parsley Bay refreshments are available
"%
)
30
Reserve. A short descent opens throughout the walk at Watsons
) $-"3,&
Macquarie Lighthouse
Bay, Parsley Bay, Vaucluse and
5

453&&
6

5

40

Nielsen Park. The tea rooms at

%

508&3




453& Vaucluse House offer views of
0-

&5

the gardens, and the café at

."$%0 Nielsen Park sells homemade fare
/"-%



45
in generous portions. The walk
covers several harbour beaches
where you can swim safely. In
warm weather, bring a swimsuit,
towel, hat and sunscreen, and
0 metres 500 allow time for swimming, sun-
Children’s bedroom, one of the bathing and picnicking.
0 yards 500 exhibits at Vaucluse House q
BEYOND SYDNEY

EXPLORING BEYOND SYDNEY 152153

PITTWATER AND KURINGGAI CHASE 154155
HAWKESBURY TOUR 156157
HUNTER VALLEY 158159
BLUE MOUNTAINS 160161
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS TOUR 162163
ROYAL NATIONAL PARK 164165
152 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y

Wo l
Exploring Beyond Sydney
To the east, Sydney is bounded by the Pacific Ocean;

lem
to the west, by the Great Dividing Range. To the north
and south, within easy distance of the city, are superb

i
beaches and stretches of coastal scenery, while inland,
you will encounter waterfalls, deep valleys and
fascinating flora and wildlife. On the Hawkesbury River,
to the north and west of the city, are settlements of
historical as well as scenic interest while, further north,
the Hunter River meanders through sloping vineyards.
The excursions on pages 154–65 offer the visitor the Cable car ride over
the Blue Mountains
chance to sample the rich variety of Sydney landscapes
from the exhilarating to the tranquil. Mudgee Ca
pe r
tree
Glen Davis

Cullen Bullen

Portland
Bathurst
Meadow Flats
Orange, Walang Zig Zag
Lithgow Railway
Dubbo Tarana Berambing
Mount Victoria

Hampton Blackheath
E INS
Façade of Rothbury Estate in the Hunter Valley
Oberon B L U U N TA
M OKatoomba

Blu
Black Springs Jenolan Nati
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Caves
e Mo
onal P
Blue Mountains 4 untain
Hawkesbury Tour 2
Hunter Valley 3 Porters Retreat
a rk

Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai Chase

s

National Park 1 Nattai

Royal National Park 6
Southern Highlands Tour 5
Nattai

Richlands
GETTING AROUND 0 kilometres 50
Bullio
All the areas covered in these
excursions can be easily reached 0 miles 25 Taralga
Wollon y

by road from Sydney. Freeways Myrtleville

and motorways take travellers Bowral
dill

part of the way to the Southern Moss Vale

Chatsbury
Highlands, Blue Mountains and
Hunter Valley, while the other Tarlo Brayton SOUTHERN
areas are accessible on sealed,
well-signposted major roads. A
number of tour operators offer
guided one-day, or longer, tours
Canberra
to the Blue Mountains, Hunter
Sho

Valley, Southern Highlands and

Bungonia Morton
alhav

South Coast, and parts of the

Hawkesbury region. CityRail has National
en

regular train services to the Blue

Mountains, Royal National Park Pa rk
and to parts of the area covered
Nerriga Sassafras
by the Southern Highlands Tour.
Ferries offer access to some Grand old house in Kiama, near
parts of the Hawkesbury River. the Southern Highlands Conjola

Bega
 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y 153

Tamworth Dungog Port Macquarie

Hu Gresford
nte Booral
Jerry Plains r
Singleton
Warkworth Clarence Town
Paterson
Bulga

Williams
HU Branxton
Hawks Nest
NT
ER
VA L Port Stephens
Broke LEY Maitland
Raymond Nelson Bay
Howes Valley Terrace
Cessnock
Kurri Kurri
Nat

Wollombi Newcastle
Putty
Ye n g o
Toronto
ion

National Belmont
Bucketty
Pa rk Morisset Swansea
al

Macdonald
Colo

UR

Wyong
Par

Y TO

Colo
Heights The Entrance
k

Gosford
Ha
UR

w
ke
s bu
SB

ry
Woy Woy
KE

Kurrajong
W
A

Richmond
H

Windsor PITTWATER &

Springwood KU-RING-
GAI CHASE
Hornsby
Penrith Mona Vale

Manly
Wallacia Parramatta
Sydney
Bankstown
Lake Liverpool
Maroubra
Burragorang Hawkesbury River ferry service
departing from Palm Beach
Camden Cronulla

Campbelltown
ROYAL KEY
NATIONAL
Picton Appin Freeway or motorway
PARK
Major road

Minor road
Wollongong Main railway

Minor railway
Port Kembla
Dapto

Robertson Shellharbour

HIGHLA Kiama
NDS
Kangaroo TOU
Valley
R

Berry
Seven Mile
Beach
Bomaderry
Nowra
Culburra

Currarong
Wandandian

Jervis Bay
Garie Beach, a popular surfing spot in Royal National Park
154 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y

Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai Chase 1

Pittwater and the adjacent Ku-ring-gai Chase

National Park lie on Sydney’s northernmost
outskirts. They are bounded to the north by BRISB
A N E W AT E R

Broken Bay, at the mouth of the Hawkesbury N AT I O N A L P A R K

River (see pp156–7). Sparkling waterways
and golden beaches are set against the
unspoiled backdrop of the national park.
Patonga
Barrenjoey Picnicking, bushwalking, surfing,
Lighthouse boating, sailing and windsurfing are
popular pastimes with visitors. The Hawkes-
H
bury River system curls around an ancient a
w Flint and
sandstone landscape rich in Aboriginal k
e Steel Point
rock art, and flora and fauna. s
b Juno
u
r Point
y
Gunyah R i
v e r Hungry
Beach Beach

ad
Ro
Coal and
Candle Creek

st He ad
The pretty inlet is Challenger
Head

k
typical of eroded
e e

e
valleys formed dur- Refu W
C r

ge
ing the last Ice Age.
B ay
n

Water melted from C o w a

the ice caps flooded
Cowan
the valleys to form Point G-GAI CHASE
the bays and creeks KU_RIN

of Broken Bay. N AT I O N A L PA RK
Co
al
a

Cottage
nd

Point a
C
nd
le

Cr
Smi

e ek
th

Cr
s

ee
k
Akuna
Bay
Ge
Akuna Bay nera
l
The isolated marina,
San M

general store and café

artin

serve the Hawkesbury

ree
rs C k Road
Dri

River boating fraternity.

McCar
ve

ABORIGINAL ART IN KU-RING-GAI CHASE RYDE,

CHATSWOOD
Ku-ring-gai Chase has literally KEY
hundreds of Aboriginal rock
Major road
art sites, providing an insight
into one of the world’s oldest Secondary road
cultures. The most common
Minor road
are rock engravings, generally
made in groups with as many National Park
as 100 individual figures. They
Ferry route
include whales up to 8 m
(26 ft) long, fish, sharks, Walk route
wallabies, echidnas and
Boat hire
Ancestral Spirits such as
Daramulan, who created the Aboriginal rock art near the Aboriginal rock art
land, its people and animals. Basin, Ku-ring-gai Chase
Viewpoint
 P I T T WA T E R A N D K U - R I N G - G A I C H A S E 155

Palm Beach Wharf

Palm Beach, a haven
for sea birds such as
B r o k e
n pelicans, is popular
B
a
y with sun-seekers. It is
also the base for the
boats that visit and
deliver supplies to the
Lion Island
isolated communities
on Pittwater and the
Hawkesbury.
Barrenjoey
Head
Pittwater
West This graceful finger
Head
of water separates
Palm Beach from
Palm
Great Mackerel Beach Ku-ring-gai Chase.
Beach Pittwater boasts
secluded beaches,
picnic areas and
several hamlets
P i

Whale
t t

Beach that can only be

w a

Ca
re reached by water.
el

The Basin
t e r

Ba
y

Barrenjoey R

Longnose
Point
Ba y
Avalon
Whale Beach
Towlers
Beach Spectacular houses
oa

BI LGO LA seem to hug the

d

P L AT E A U
ay
cliffs overlooking
B
ve
tt Bilgola this fine surf beach.
Lo Scotland Beach
Island The Palm Beach
ee
k
Church
Newport Peninsula’s beaches
Beach
Cr

Point are often less con-

McCarrs

gested than those

closer to the city.

Bungan
Beach TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS
Distance from Sydney: About
30 km (19 miles). Duration of
journey: About 45 minutes to
Vale Road Mona Vale
Mona Vale Beach. Getting there:
na Take Military Rd on the city’s
Pit

Beach
o

tw
M

North Shore and cross the Spit

ate

0 kilometres 2 Bridge. Follow Pittwater Rd to

r Road

RYDE, Mona Vale Beach. When to go:

CHATSWOOD 0 miles 1
DEE WHY,
The Christmas holiday period is
MANLY the peak season and beaches can
be crowded. Ku-ring-gai Chase
Bilgola Beach offers everything from shoreline to
A small community bushwalks and can be enjoyed
of residents backs year round. Where to stay and
eat: Contact the visitors’
this patrolled surf
information centre for full details
beach set against a of facilities. Tourist information:
pretty rainforested NPWS N. Region Info Centre.
valley. Wooden steps Tel 9472 8949. # 9am–5pm
lead down from the Mon–Fri. ¢ Christmas Day.
ridge above through www.npws.nsw.gov.au
coastal heathland.
156 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y

Hawkesbury Tour 2

Australia’s longest eastward-flowing river, the

Hawkesbury–Nepean, forms Sydney’s northern and
western boundaries. It was at first thought to be
two separate rivers until further exploration
revealed that they were in fact one. The section
known as the Hawkesbury runs from the Colo River
Valley to Broken Bay in the north (see pp154–5).
Settled in 1794, by 1799 the Hawkesbury Valley’s
small farms produced three-quarters of the colony’s
grain. Its riverscape is little changed since then and
much of the area remains a quiet backwater. It is
an area rich in relics of the early colonial period, Tizzana Winery 5
including towns and villages established during A touch of Tuscany on the banks
the Macquarie era of 1810–19 (see p24). It is also of the Hawkesbury, this sandstone
a place of great scenic grandeur, with magnificent winery was built in 1887 by Dr
vistas of one of Australia’s most beautiful rivers. Thomas Fiaschi. It is open to visitors
on weekends and public holidays.
SINGLETON
Ebenezer Uniting
Church 4 Co
Portland Reach 6

lo
Built in 1809, the On the river, pleasure

Ri
er

v
church and its 1817 craft have replaced the
schoolhouse have grain barges of the past, 9

6
been superbly res- but the area’s farming
tored. The tree under community survives.
which services were
first held still stands. KURRANJONG
HEIGHTS

Colo River Drive 3

This pretty route travels
along the Putty Road to
Colo, then follows the
river to Lower Portland.
69

Ebenezer •

Cattai
•
69

Pitt
Town
•

Tebbutts Observatory 2 Sackville Ferry 7

John Tebbutt (1834–1916), an early amateur 65 It only takes a few
40

astronomer, built this observatory in Windsor minutes to cross the

in 1854, where he studied the solar system PARRAMATTA river by cable ferry.
and discovered a comet in 1861.

Windsor 1
Built in 1815, the Macquarie Arms Hotel
is just one of Windsor’s fine early colonial
buildings. Many others, including several
by architect Francis Greenway (see p114),
remain from the town laid out in 1810.
 H AW K E S B U R Y T O U R 157

Settlers Arms Inn 0

Once an overnight stop for stage coaches to the
Hunter Valley (see pp158–9), this atmospheric 1836
hotel is in the largely unchanged village of St Albans.

Webbs Creek Ferry 9

Opened in 1908, this cable
ferry gives access to the west-
River

ern bank of the Hawkesbury Old General

for the drive beside the Cemetery q
on ald

Macdonald River. A stark reminder of the

hardships and tragedies
acd

of early settlement, this

M

Portland Ferry 8 is the resting place of six

If taking the Colo River First Fleeters (see p22).
Drive, cross the river here
by ferry for the River Road
to Wisemans Ferry.
r
i ve

R
ry 36
bu
Hawkes GOSFORD

36
Old Great North Road w
The convict-built road with
its massive buttresses was
completed in 1828.
Part of it still remains.
• Maroota
65
TIPS FOR DRIVERS
• 36
Cornelia Distance from Sydney: 55 km
HORNSBY (35 miles) to Windsor.
Duration of tour: About 3½
hours, excluding stops.
Getting there and back: Follow
Wisemans M4 to James Ruse Drive (53) just
65 Ferry e before Parramatta, then Windsor
This small village Rd (40). To return from Wisemans
on a bend in the Ferry, take the Old Northern Rd
Hawkesbury River (36) to Middle Dural, then
is where ex-convict Galston Rd to Hornsby. From
Solomon Wiseman here, follow Pacific Hwy south.
started his ferry When to go: Peak season is
service, Australia’s from December to February. The
oldest, in 1827. river, national parks and small
towns can be enjoyed year round.
Where to stay and eat: Cafés,
KEY
restaurants and accommodation
Tour route can be found at Windsor and
Wisemans Ferry. The Settlers
Scenic route
Arms Inn at St Albans has a few
Other road rooms, and a bar and restaurant.
Tourist information:
Cable ferry
Hawkesbury Valley Information
0 kilometres 5 Tourist information Centre. Tel 4588 5895.
www.hawkesburyvalley.com
Viewpoint
0 miles 3
 158 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y

Hunter Valley 3

Some of the earliest vineyards to

be planted in Australia were on SINGLETON, rC
ree
k
UPPER HUNTER ate
the fertile flats of the Hunter ee
tw
w
River in the 1830s, developing a

S
CE
thriving industry in fortified wine. RA
TER

Old No
Since the 1970s, it has evolved E
into a premium wine district NG
Cheese made by h RA

rt
Ro
local producer (see pp182–3). With some 90 ad

wineries the area is a popular weekend trip

from Sydney. Hot air ballooning, golf and
horse riding supplement vineyard visits. The
Jazz in the Vines festival takes place in October.

itage Road
k
hbury Cree
Many wineries open daily but it is best to Rot

phone ahead and check. Hunter Estate

Herm
Marsh Estate

Sutherland
Deaseys Roa
Brokenwood d

Under the ownership

of Ian Riggs, this
ek
medium-sized C re
ROSEMOUNT ’s
winery has ESTATE, UPPER ne
An
HUNTER ary
produced some of M
the region’s finest
Shiraz from the
Graveyard vineyard,
as well as an
excellent Semillon. Broke Road

Brian
Lindemans McGuigan
Glenguin
In 1842, Dr Henry John Tyrell’s
Wines
Lindeman resigned his Brokenwood
naval commission to
Tamburlaine
establish a vineyard in
Tulloch
the Hunter Valley. His Pokolbin t
company has been a
Debeyers Roa
major producer in the d
olbin
Australian wine Hungerford Pok
Hill
industry ever since. Draytons

Oakey Creek
Drayton
Family Estate
PERSONALITIES OF THE HUNTER VALLEY
The wine industry seems to attract or create McWilliam’s
larger-than-life characters. Among the
rowbone
legends was the great Len Evans, writer, Mar
BR

wine judge, bon vivant and founder of the

O

ambitious Rothbury Estate and Petersons

KE

Evans Family Wines, as well

N
BA

as Tower Estate. His

CK

contemporaries included Max

Lake, a Sydney surgeon who
RA

started Lake’s Folly as a

NG

weekend winery, and the

E

late Murray Tyrrell, patriarch

of a wine-making family that
produced its first Hunter
vintage in 1864 and proudly
retains its independence. Len Evans checking grape vines
 H U N T E R VA L L E Y 159

Hope Estate
BRANXTON, On the site of the late
WYNDHAM ESTATE Len Evans’ winery,
The Rothbury Estate,
Hope Estate hosts
ek
Black Cre

dinners and concerts in

the winery’s cask hall.

Belbourie Pepper’s Convent

A restored 1909
convent is now an
elegantly appointed
guest house, with the
Branx

Pepper Tree vineyard

to n

and winery and

Ro
McDonalds

Robert’s Restaurant
ad

only a short walk away.

Allanmere
Road

3PUICVSZ
t

Palmers
Lake’s Folly
Lane
Australian growers stopped
planting Cabernet Sauvignon
Calais Peacock
Estates Hill
vines in the 19th century. But in
F
tC
the 1960s, former owner Max
ir s

re
Lake reintroduced the variety.
ek

GRETA

Tower
Estate
Allandale

k
TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS
e
Cre

Distance from Sydney: 160 km

key

Creek (100 miles).

Oa

Golden Grape Estate Duration of journey: About 2

Allandale Ro

A popular coach stop, the hours from the centre of Sydney.

O’Connors Road
winery has a vine gallery Getting there and back: Take
showing grape varieties the Sydney–Newcastle F3 freeway
ad

Road north of Sydney and follow the

found around the world.
signs to Cessnock. Another route
There is also a museum
is through the picturesque
which features early wine- Wollombi Valley. Allow about 3
making equipment. hours as there are unsealed roads.
Road When to go: Year round.
Mount View KURRI KURRI Vintage is Jan–Mar.
Saddler’s Road t

Creek CESSNOCK Where to stay and eat: There is
a wide variety of motels, guest-
Briar SYDNEY houses, self-catering cottages and
Ridge
cabins, cafés and restaurants.
k KEY Visitor information: Hunter
ee

Valley Wine Country Tourism,

ad
Cr

Main road
Ro
ird

455 Wine Country Drive,

bi
Bellb

llom

Unsealed road Pokolbin. Tel 4990 0900.

Wo

www.winecountry.com.au
Winery
Further afield: The Upper Hunter
Bellbird Tourist information vineyards are about 40 minutes by

t 0 kilometres 2
car northwest of Pokolbin.
Viewpoint
0 miles 1
WOLLOMBI,
SYDNEY
160 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y

Blue Mountains 4

The Blue Mountains, designated a World Heritage area

in 2000, prevented westward expansion of the European
colony until 1813, when explorers Gregory Blaxland,
William Lawson and William Charles Wentworth found
a way across. The magnificent scenery, characterized by
rugged cliffs and rock formations, ravines and waterfalls,
is best appreciated on the bushwalks that wind along
cliff tops and through valleys. The restaurants, cafés
and antique shops will tempt the less energetic. The Zig Zag Railway
mountains are named for the perennial blue haze, A steam train travels through
caused by light striking eucalyptus oil particles in the air. cuttings and tunnels, and
over three impressive viaducts
built from 1866–9.
The Grose River ZIG ZAG
RAILWAY
flows between the
two roads crossing
the mountains.

Victoria
Falls

Mount York
Grose Valley from Govetts Leap
Considered by many to be the most JENOLAN
CAVES
imposing view in the Blue Mountains,
a great panorama with a series of
ridges stretches into the far distance.

Three Sisters
This giant rock for-
mation near Echo
Point takes its name
from an Aboriginal
legend. The story tells
of three sisters turned
to stone by their witch-
doctor father to keep
them safe from an evil
bunyip or monster.

JENOLAN CAVES
About 55 km (34 miles) south-
west of Mount Victoria is a
magical series of spectacular
KEY
underground limestone caves
with icy blue rivers and fleecy Major road
limestone formations. They are
Other road
surrounded by an extensive
wildlife reserve. People have Suggested walk
been making the trek here
Starting points for other walks
since the caves were discovered
in 1838, staying originally in the Campsite
Grand Arch cave and later in
Picnic area
the Edwardian splendour of
Jenolan Caves House, which The vividly coloured Pool of Tourist information
still operates today. Cerberus at Jenolan Caves
Viewpoint
 B L U E M O U N T A I N S 161

Mount Wilson
A picturesque village
with cultivated gar-
dens and exotic trees,
it has been called a
“little corner of the
northern hemisphere”.
Some gardens are
open to the public in
spring and autumn.
The Cathedral of
Ferns is a remnant
of the temperate
rainforest that once Mount Tomah Botanic
covered this area. Gardens
This superbly landscaped
garden, specializing in cool-
climate plants, has sweeping
views over the Grose Valley.

RICHMOND

Mount
Banks

Yester Grange
The beautifully restored Victorian
country house at Wentworth Falls
has a collection of antiques and
crafts, as well as a restaurant.

TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS

Distance from Sydney: About
105 km (65 miles).
Duration of journey: About 90
minutes to Wentworth Falls.
Getting there and back: Follow
Metroad route 4 and the Great
Western Highway. Return by Bells
Line of Road to Windsor. State Rail
has regular services to the area.
An Explorer Bus runs from
Katoomba train station at 9:30am
on weekends and public holidays.
When to go: Year round. Always
be prepared for the cold, especially
Kings when hiking, as the weather can
Tableland Wentworth Falls
Jamison change rapidly in all seasons.
An impressive double water-
Valley Where to stay and eat: Contact
fall is the starting point for the visitor information centre.
the National Pass track, a Tourist information: Blue
Leura village is classified by
the National Trust. Nearby
challenging four-hour return Mountains Visitors’ Information
are Leura Cascades, floodlit walk to the next valley. Centre, Echo Point, Katoomba.
at night and one of the pret- 0 kilometres 5
Tel 1300 653 408. www.
tiest sights in the mountains. visitbluemountains.com.au
0 miles 3
162 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y

Southern Highlands Tour 5

This easily accessible area to the

south of Sydney is often said to be
more typical of Great Britain, than
Australia. It is actually a delightful
Common wombat
combination of both: Australian
high country and coastal hinterland with many
European qualities. It is a land of abrupt hills
and valleys, waterfalls and streams; of quaint
villages, cosy restaurants, antique shops and
elegant places to stay. The tour takes in spectac-
Bowral 8
ular Seven Mile Beach and the pretty town of This highlands town holds a famous
Berry before heading to Kangaroo Valley, sleepy spring tulip festival every year and is
Bundanoon and the antique shops and newly home to cricket’s Bradman Museum.
emerging wineries of Berrima and Bowral. An
exhilarating adjunct to the tour is nearby Minna- WOMBEYAN
CAVES Mittagong
murra Falls with its boardwalk through rainforest.

31
Berrima 7
By-passed by the
railway in the 19th
century, the only

80
Georgian village
in the highlands
remains one Moss Vale
48
of the most Sutton Forest
picturesque.

79
31

k
ee
n Cr
GOULBURN oo
n dan
Bu

Bundanoon 6
Romantic guesthouses and
a glow-worm cave make
this town a popular River
oo
ar
weekend destination. ng
Ka

Tallowa Dam

Fitzroy Falls 5
Part of Morton National M O RTO N
Park, the falls plunge 80 m
N A T I O N A L PA R K
(262 ft) into the subtropi-
cal rainforest below. The Sho
alhav
en
falls lookout has access for
the disabled and walking
trails with stunning views.
0 kilometres 10

0 miles 5

KEY Kangaroo Valley 4

Tour route Hampden Bridge, a
castellated suspen-
Scenic route (alternative)
sion bridge, crosses
Other roads the Kangaroo River
at this small village.
Tourist information
The river is an idyllic
Viewpoint place for canoeing.
 S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S T O U R 163

BERRIMA GAOL
Completed in 1839 by con-
vict labour, this Georgian
sandstone jail is featured in
Rolf Boldrewood’s classic
1888 bushranging novel,
Robbery Under Arms. The
fictitious character Captain
Starlight, who escapes from
Berrima, describes it as “the
largest, most severe, the
most dreaded of all prisons
in New South Wales”.

Kiama 1
The historic town began life in
the 1820s as a port for shipping
cedar. Its blowhole can spurt
WOLLONGONG
water as high as 60 m (200 ft).

48 Albion Park
Seven Mile Beach 2
48 Robertson Shellharbour Part of a national park and best seen from
Gerroa’s Black Head, the beach is flanked
80 by dunes and hardy coastal vegetation,
Minnamurra
including forest and swamp. It is a great
Belmore Falls Falls
fishing, swimming and picnicking spot.
Jamberoo
D E RO O
BUD
NAT I O NA L
79

PA R K TIPS FOR DRIVERS

1

Distance from Sydney: 120 km

Gerringong (75 miles).
Duration of tour: About 3½
hours, excluding stops.
79

Getting there and back: Take

Metroad route 1, then follow the
1 F3 freeway and Princes Hwy (1)
to Kiama. Return via the F5 free-
way (31) from Mittagong, then
r Bomaderry Metroad route 5 into the city.
Rive
When to go: Year round. The
beaches are best in summer, the
NOWRA gardens in spring and autumn.
History buffs, antique-lovers and
country-style aficionados will
enjoy many of these little towns.
Berry 3 Where to stay and eat: Eating
This town, surrounded places, hotels and guesthouses
by lush dairy country, are found all over the area.
is well known for its Tourist information: Kiama
main street lined with Visitors Centre, Blowhole Point,
shady trees, antique Kiama. Tel 4232 3322. www.
and craft shops, tea kiama.com.au Southern Highlands
rooms and historic Visitors Information Centre, 62–70
buildings. The Berry Main St, Mittagong. Tel 4871 28
Museum, built in 1886, 88. www.highlandsnsw.com.au
is in a former bank.
164 B E Y O N D S Y D N E Y

Royal National Park 6

Designated as a national park in 1879, the

“Royal” is the oldest national park in
Australia. It covers 16,000 ha (37,100
acres) of landscape typical of the Sydney
Basin sandstone. To the east, waves from
the Pacific Ocean have undercut the
Waratah
sandstone and produced majestic coastal
cliffs broken occasionally by small creeks and some
spectacular beaches. Streams flowing north and east
have incised deep river valleys. Heath vegetation on the
plateaux merges with woodlands on the upper slopes. Hacking River
The park is ideal for bushwalking, picnicking, camping, Boating, fishing and canoe-
swimming and birdwatching. ing are common water sports.

Audley J
A popular picnic area
since the Edwardian
era, it has a pavili-
on that was built
in 1901. Look out
for the 1920s
dance hall also
in the park.

Heathcote

Lady Carrington Drive

Named after a governor’s wife and now
closed to vehicles, the road is crossed by 15
creeks and is delightful to walk or cycle.
It also leads to the track to Palona Cave.
J
KEY The Forest Path
follows a circular
Main road
route, passing
Walking track through subtrop-
ical rainforest.
CityRail station

Ferry boarding point Garie Beach is

Picnic area a popular surf
beach accessible
Campsite by road.
Swimming Werrong J
Naturist Beach
Parking 0 kilometres 4
Figure Eight
Viewpoint
0 miles 2 Pool
 R O YA L N A T I O N A L PA R K 165

Bundeena
Enclosed by national park on three sides, the
small settlement at the mouth of the Hacking
River may be reached by ferry from Cronulla
or by road through the national park.

Cronulla
Jibbon Head
Guided tours of the Jibbon
Head Aboriginal rock
engravings site may be
arranged.

Jibbon
Lagoon

Deer Pool
One of many fresh-
water pools in the
park, this sheltered
J spot is on the track
from Bundeena
J Drive to Marley
and Little Marley.

Little Marley Beach

TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS
Distance from Sydney: 34 km
(21 miles).
Duration of journey: About 1
hour from the centre of Sydney.
Getting there: Follow Metroad
route 1 south to Sutherland, then
the signs to Heathcote and Wollon-
gong. The turn-off to Farnell
Avenue and the park entrance is
shortly after Sutherland.
J When to go: Year round, but
Wattamolla Lagoon conditions for walking in summer
This pretty picnic spot has a lagoon can be hot so allow for this. If
with a waterfall at its edge and a bushwalking, carry fresh water at
protected ocean beach. all times and check on the fire
danger at the Visitors’ Centre.
Where to stay and eat: There
are kiosks at Audley, Garie Beach
and Wattamolla. Camping
Curracurrang information can be obtained at
This rock formation is the Visitors’ Centre.
about halfway along the Tourist information: Royal
two-day Coast Walk. Sea National Park Visitors’ Centre,
Farnell Ave, Audley. Tel 9542
eagles and terns nest in
0648. www.npws.nsw.gov.au
caves at the base of this Guided Tours: The Coast Track
rocky cove which also has Tel 0410 681 375. www.
a secluded swimming thecoasttrack.com.au
hole and waterfall.
 TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 168177

RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND PUBS 178197
SHOPS AND MARKETS 198207
ENTERTAINMENT IN SYDNEY 208215
168 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

WHERE TO STAY
W ith Australia’s recent emer-
gence as a major tourist
destination, the urgent need
for more high-quality and good-
value accommodation became
self-catering apartments, homestay
accommodation and budget and
backpacker hostels for those
travelling on a budget. Information
on these alternatives is given
apparent. Previously, most Sydney below. From a survey of various
hotels and guesthouses had been types of accommodation in different
regarded as expensive and of varying areas and varying price brackets,
standard. There has since been an we have selected those offering
enormous improvement in both good value for money. Detailed
Sydney hotel
quality and value, and there are doorman descriptions of each hotel can
excellent choices for visitors be found on pages 172–7. Inclu-
ranging from five-star luxury to the ded with each hotel review is a list of
homeliness of a small, unpretentious symbols indicating the full range of
hotel. In addition to hotels, Sydney has facilities on offer there.

the city centre. Paddington has Festival in February and Mardi

smaller hotels and self-catering Gras Parade in early March, the
apartments, while to the east Easter holidays and July and
are the up-market hotels of September school holidays.
Double Bay. On the other side Bookings can be made by
of Sydney Harbour Bridge, the letter, phone, fax, e-mail or
leafy North Shore provides a through your local inter-
more relaxed look at Sydney, national travel agent. A credit
and you can travel to and from card number or bank cheque
the city centre by ferry. in Australian dollars is usually
The popular beachside sub- required to secure your
urbs of Bondi and Manly are booking. Check cancellation
New façade of the refurbished a little way out of the centre of requirements and reconfirm
Hilton Sydney Hotel (see p174) Sydney, but some visitors may before you arrive in Sydney.
like the opportunity to be close The Sydney Visitors Centre
WHERE TO LOOK to superb beaches and yet still books certain hotels and will
be reasonably near to the city. send a brochure pack.
Most of the expensive hotels You should also remember Australian Accommodation
are in or near the city centre, that in Australia a hotel can be Services does not charge for
but it is possible to find a pub or a place to drink (see bookings. If you belong to a
accommodation within most pp196–7). Pubs do not always motoring association, ask
price ranges throughout provide accommodation. your travel agent to check
Sydney. The city centre has which NRMA-(National Roads
the advantage of having many HOW TO BOOK and Motorists’ Association-)
of the larger theatres, galleries affiliated hotels offer a dis-
and shops at hand, as well as It is advisable to book well in count. Countrylink agencies at
easy transport access to more advance, especially for the major railway stations offer a
distant sights and attractions. Christmas school holidays in comprehensive service and
Cheaper accommodation can December and January, the AFTA travel agencies will
be found in the vibrant Kings Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras book most hotels. Some travel
Cross district. Choices here
range from backpacker hostels
to the small “boutique” hotels
where the emphasis is on
quality and personal service.
In The Rocks area, with its
beautifully restored colonial
buildings, you can choose
from bed and breakfast in a
traditional Sydney pub or the
opulence of a five-star luxury
hotel with good views of the
Sydney Opera House.
The hotels around Darling
Harbour and Chinatown offer
good value for shoppers and
are also within easy reach of One of the elegant guestrooms at the Swissôtel (see p174)
 W H E R E T O S T AY 169

DISABLED TRAVELLERS

The information regarding

wheelchair access that is
given on pages 172–7 relies
very much on each hotel’s
own assessment of its facilities.
Spinal Cord Injuries
Australia supplies a booklet
called Access Sydney for
people with mobility prob-
lems. It details accessible
locations around Sydney and
is available from their office
in Little Bay, or it can be
delivered by post. Their web-
site is also worth visiting.

TRAVELLING
WITH CHILDREN

Curvilinear shape of the Four Points By Sheraton (see p174) It is worth inquiring about
special rates or deals that
agencies specialize in specific HIDDEN EXTRAS allow children to stay in their
areas. Tourist information parents’ room for no extra
centres can also offer valu- Breakfast is usually charged cost. Most hotels in Sydney
able advice about where to on top of the room rate in the welcome children, although
stay in Sydney. more expensive hotels. It is you should ask about special
best to avoid consuming any of facilities before booking.
DISCOUNT RATES the contents of the mini-bar
until you have checked the SELF-CATERING FLATS
With fewer visitors staying in price. Alcohol is usually much
Sydney from April to October more expensive here than in Accommodation including full
(except during the shops. Also, be wary kitchen and laundry facilities
school holiday peri- of the telephone offers the traveller greater
ods), some of the more charges. There will independence. Such self-
expensive hotels may almost certainly be a catering apartments are the
be willing to negotiate considerable mark-up latest accommodation trend in
a better rate. This is on any calls you make Australia. In addition to
particularly so if they from your room. In comfort, they also provide
think you will look general, tipping is not good value because the living
elsewhere for accom- widespread, but it is space is larger than standard
modation. It is always expected in the more hotel rooms and the prices
worth asking for the expensive hotels. You are competitive: although
corporate rate at which Stained glass at should make a note rates can vary, they are
hotels give discounts Simpsons hotel of the check-out time generally on a par with the
(see p176)
for group or company when you arrive, or major chain hotels.
bookings. Most hotels negotiate a late check- The choice ranges from
give these without question. out, as a surcharge may be one- to three-bedroom luxury
At the weekend there are incurred if you stay late. apartments in the inner city to
fewer business clients around, basic flats at the beach. Some
so this is the time when SPECIAL OFFERS apartments cater for business
prices are frequently cheaper travellers, complete with fax
in the top hotels. Money can Hotels often cooperate with and other communications
also be saved by booking for airlines, rail services, bus amenities. They are also ideal
a week at a time. Asking for a companies, theatres and for families, especially those
room without a harbour or entertainment promoters to with young children, who
ocean view is another good provide package deals that appreciate not only the
way of reducing the costs. include discounted accommo- greater amount of space but
The Travellers Information dation. Booking agencies will also the flexibility provided
Service in the city can often have brochures with details of by self-catering.
arrange up to 50 per cent off these seasonal offers, or ask All the “apartment” hotels in
the price of regular hotel the hotel for information on the listings on pages 172–7
accommodation rates (this any special deals. offer self-catering facilities. In
does not normally apply to “Special occasion” packages addition, Sydney has several
budget hotels) to those who (such as for anniversaries or agencies that can help visitors
book in person on the day a honeymoons) are available at to arrange self-catering
room is required. the top end of the market. accommodation (see p170).
170 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Breakfast Sydney Central and

the Homestay Network make
every effort to match the host
and guest if possible, so ring
to discuss any preferences
before making a reservation.

BUDGET
ACCOMMODATION

As a favoured destination for

many young travellers,
Sydney has a large number of
hostels that cater specifically
A luxurious room at the Regents Court hotel in Potts Point (see p175) for their needs. Despite fierce
competition, standards vary
PRIVATE HOMES alternative to more impersonal widely. At their best, hostels
hotel rooms for many people offer excellent value.
European-style bed-and- who choose to visit Sydney. While it is necessary to book
breakfast accommodation in a People from all walks of life in advance at some hostels,
private home can be an ideal offer rooms in a wide variety others do not take bookings
way to experience a city. It is of house styles and locations. and beds are on a first come,
fast becoming a popular Agencies such as Bed and first served basis. Apartments,

DIRECTORY
DISCOUNT Spinal Cord Injuries Homestay Network Wesley College
AGENCIES Australia 5 Locksley St, Killara NSW Tel 9565 3333.
I Jennifer St, Little Bay 2071. Tel 9498 4400. Women’s College
Travellers Infor- NSW 2036. Tel 9661 Fax 9498 8324. Tel 9517 5000.
mation Service 8855, 1800 819 775. www.homestaynetwork.
Sydney Coach Terminal,
Wake Up!
Postal Address P.O Box com.au
509 Pitt St (opposite
Eddy Ave, Sydney NSW 397 Matraville NSW
HOSTELS Central Station). Map 4
2000. Map 4 E5. Tel 2036. www.scia.org.au
E5. Tel 9288 7888.
9281 9366. Fax 9281
SELF-CATERING Backpackers World www.wakeup.com.au
0123.
AGENCIES Travel
477 Kent St, Sydney NSW
YHA Australia
USEFUL BOOKING 422 Kent St, Sydney NSW
Medina 2000. Tel 9262 7277.
ADDRESSES 2000. Map 4 D3. Tel 9261
359 Crown St, Surry Hills
Blue Parrot 1111. www.yha.com.au
Australian NSW 2010. Map 5 A3.
Backpackers
Accommodation Tel 1300 633 462. www.
87 Macleay St, Potts Point GAY AND LESBIAN
Services medina apartments.com.
NSW 2011. Tel 9356 ACCOMMODATION
Tel 9974 4884. au Also at nine other
4888. www.blueparrot.
Fax 9974 1692. www. locations.
com.au Gay and Lesbian
tourist.net Pacific International Tourism Australia
G’day Backpackers
Countrylink Hotels www.galta.com.au
153 Forbes St, Woolloo-
Central Railway Station. Sydney, Chatswood and
mooloo NSW 2011. Map IGLTA
Map 4 E5. Tel 132 232. Parramatta. Tel 1300
5 B1. Tel 9358 4327. PO Box 20891, World
987 604. www.pacific
Sydney Visitors Pink House Square NSW. Tel 9575
inthotels.com
Centre 6-8 Barncleuth Sq, Kings 4869. www.iglta.org
Cnr Argyle & Playfair sts, HOMESTAY Cross NSW 2011. Map 5
The Rocks NSW 2000. AGENCIES C1. Tel 1800 806 385.
CAMPING
Map 1 A4. www.pinkhouse.com.au
Bed and Breakfast Blue Mountains
Tel 1800 067 676. www.
NSW Sydney Central YHA National Park
sydneyvisitorcentre.com
Tel 1300 888 862. Cnr Pitt St & Rawson Pl, Tel 4787 8877.
www.bedandbreakfast Sydney NSW 2000.
DISABLED Jenolan Caravan
nsw.com.au Tel 9218 9000.
ASSISTANCE Park
Bed and Breakfast University of Tel 6336 0344.
Ideas Incorporated Sydney Central Sydney
Ku-ring-gai Chase
81 Caper St, Tumut NSW 139 Commonwealth St, International House Tel
National Park
2720. Sydney NSW 2000. 9950 9800. St John’s
Tel 9472 8949.
Tel 1800 029 904, Tel 9211 9920. www. College Tel 9394 5200.
6947 3377. bedandbreakfastsydney. Sancta Sophia Royal National Park
www.ideas.org.au com.au Tel 9577 2100. Tel 9542 0648.
 W H E R E T O S T AY 171

Sydney Central combines primarily, if not exclusively,

modern facilities, such as a for same-sex couples. Many
swimming pool, sauna and of the small hotels in the
24-hour security access, with inner city areas of
old-world charm and is very Darlinghurst, Paddington,
conveniently situated right Newtown and Surry Hills are
opposite Sydney Central geared specifically towards
Railway Station. gay and lesbian visitors,
Blue Parrot Backpackers is although most of them also
situated in a converted welcome heterosexual guests.
mansion in the quieter end of At the IGLTA (International
Potts Point and only a short Gay and Lesbian Travel
walk from the Harbour. Association) and the Gay and
Choose between the huge Lesbian Tourism Australia
sunny garden courtyard with websites you can search
its tall trees or the large, cosy for gay or gay-friendly
Interior of boutique hotel Medusa, common room complete with travel-related businesses,
Darlinghurst (see p176) fireplace. including hotels, guest-
YHA Australia is a useful houses and tours.
rooms and dormitories are all source of information when
available, but dormitories are planning your trip, offering CAMPING
often mixed sex; check before advice about travel deals as
arriving. The backpacker scene well as helping you decide Although not an option in
changes quickly, so ask other on your itinerary and find the city itself, camping is
travellers for the latest develop- places to stay. Two other available in several national
ments. Kings Cross and Glebe useful online sources that parks close to Sydney. This can
have the largest concentration provide lists of budget hostels be a cheap and idyllic way of
of cheap accommodation. in Sydney are hostels.com and enjoying the natural beauty
Wake Up! backpacker hostel hostelworld.com. and wildlife of the bushland.
is one of the best of the The Royal National Park
bunch, with clean, modern HALLS OF RESIDENCE (see pp164 –5) has a campsite
facilities, including a bistro, with facilities at Bonnie Vale,
café, bar and internet connec- Student rooms, with shared just outside Bundeena.
tion. It is also well located bathroom facilities, are Advance booking is required
right next to Central Railway available at the University of all year round. Free bush or
Station and offers a free Sydney over the summer break “walk-in” camping is allowed
orientation morning to all from December to February. in several other places, but
guests. If required, staff can The university is conveniently you should ring the park
also provide a list of suitable close to the city and to public in advance to obtain the
employment agencies for transport, and the moderate necessary camping permit.
those who would like to work price includes breakfast. At The Basin in Ku-ring-
during their stay in Sydney. gai Chase National Park (see
G’day Backpackers and Pink GAY AND LESBIAN pp154–5), bookings should
House are smaller hostels ACCOMMODATION be made and all fees paid
offering good facilities in before your stay or on arrival.
restored buildings close to Lesbian and gay visitors are There are toilets, cold
Kings Cross. Pink House also welcome in all of Sydney’s showers, barbecue facilities
provides plenty of help if you hotels. In fact, quite a and a phone.
need to find work in Sydney. number of places cater There are basic campsites
near Glenbrook, Woodford,
Blackheath and Wentworth
Falls in the Blue Mountains
National Park (see pp160–61).
Jenolan Caravan Park in
Oberon has cabins and
caravans for hire as well as
camping pitches with and
without electric hook-ups.
You will need to book if
you want to camp at the
Euroka Clearing near
Glenbrook, but this is not
necessary for the other
sites. Bush camping is also
permitted in the park, but
there are some restrictions.
Contact the national park for
Manly Pacific Parkroyal (see p177), overlooking Manly’s ocean beach more details before you visit.
172 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES

For a standard double room per
night including service (prices in
These hotels have been selected across a wide price Australian dollars):
range for their good value, excellent facilities and loca-
\ under $120
tion. This chart lists the hotels by area in the same order \\ $120–$200
as the rest of the guide. Entries are listed alphabetically \\\ $200–$280
within each price category, from the least to the most \\\\ $280–$380
\\\\\ over $380
expensive. Restaurant listings are on pages 184–93.

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY

Mercantile Hotel 0 \

25 George St, The Rocks Tel 9247 3570 Fax 9247 7047 Rooms 15 Map 1 B2
Its George Street location means that all of the Rocks attractions are nearby, including the Argyle Cut and Garrison
Church. The hotel boasts spacious rooms with period fittings and marble fireplaces. Some even have jacuzzis. The basic
rate is for a room with a shared bathroom. Rate includes breakfast. www.mercantilehotel.citysearch.com.au

Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel 0 \\

19 Kent St, The Rocks Tel 9251 4044 Fax 9251 1532 Rooms 9 Map 1 A2
The top floor of the celebrated pub, famous for its home brews, offers cosy bedrooms with stonewalls and rustic
furnishings. There are two basic rooms with shared bathrooms, for those not on a tight budget en suite rooms are
available. Located close to Circular Quay. Rate includes breakfast. www.lordnelsonbrewery.com

Rendezvous Stafford ehS: ÷ \\

75 Harrington St, The Rocks Tel 9251 6711 Fax 9251 3458 Rooms 61 Map 1 B2
There is something for everyone at this unusual boutique hotel. Most rooms are studio and one-bedroom apartments
but suites are available in the seven charmingly restored 1870s terrace houses nearby. Rooms have kitchen facilities and
there are business services, a spa and sauna, plus Continental breakfasts available. www.rendezvoushotels.com

The Russell 0 \\

143A George St, The Rocks Tel 9241 3543 Fax 9252 1652 Rooms 29 Map 1 B2
This lovely old-fashioned hotel sits above a historic 19th-century pub, the Fortune of War. There is a quaint sitting
room, well-stocked library and sunny rooftop garden overlooking the busy Quay. The interior is decorated with
country-style antiques. Some rooms have shared bathrooms. Rate includes breakfast. www.therussell.com.au

YHA Harbour View e:z7 \\

110 Cumberland St, The Rocks Tel 8272 0900 Rooms 106 Map 1 B2
This environmentally sensitive budget accommodation includes double, family and dormitory rooms and an
archaeology education centre. Its star attraction, however, is its location and there is a rooftop terrace with loungers
and unobstructed harbour views. Kitchen facilities available. www.yha.com.au

Harbour Rocks Hotel 0:zh7 \\\

34 Harrington St, The Rocks Tel 8220 9999 Fax 8220 9998 Rooms 55 Map 1 B2
This is a charming boutique hotel with elegant foyer, intimate feel and a bar overlooking cobblestone lanes. This was
the site of Sydney’s first hospital, built by 28 men including 12 convict carpenters. Today it is a “home away from home”
with personalised service. Complimentary movies are available from its DVD library. www.harbourrocks.com.au

Old Sydney Holiday Inn eh0S:7 \\\

55 George St, The Rocks Tel 9252 0524 Fax 9251 2093 Rooms 175 Map 1 B2
Big enough to offer all the facilities of a grand establishment, this hotel is also small enough to provide personal attention.
Great location within the historic Rocks area and close to Circular Quay and the Sydney Opera House. The view from the
sparkling blue rooftop pool is spectacular. There is also a sauna and a whirlpool. www.holiday-inn.com

Park Hyatt Sydney eh0S÷7 \\\\\

7 Hickson Rd, The Rocks Tel 9241 1234 Fax 9256 1555 Rooms 158 Map 1 B1
Many rooms in this six-star hotel have Opera House views, as does the rooftop swimming pool. Walking up the road
for a few minutes takes you to the small park beneath the Harbour Bridge, a few minutes in the other direction to
Circular Quay. Well-equipped for business travellers and offers high-speed internet. sydney.park.hyatt.com

Shangri-La eh0S÷7 \\\\\

176 Cumberland St, The Rocks Tel 9250 6000 Fax 9250 6250 Rooms 563 Map 1 A3
This hotel has just spent A$40 million on a complete refurbishment and it shows. The spacious rooms are now
decorated in neutral tones with rich gold brocade highlights, and all offer lovely views of the harbour. On the top
floor, Altitude restaurant and the Blu Horizon bar are popular dining and nightspots. www.shangri-la.com

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O S T AY 173

Quay Grand eh0S÷ \\\\\

61 Macquarie St Tel 9256 4000 Fax 9256 4040 Rooms 68 Map 1 C3

Next door to the Opera House at one of Sydney’s premiere addresses, the hotels’ bedroom apartments are tastefully
furnished. Features include spa baths, kitchen and laundry facilities, televisions and stereos. There is grocery service
available, or try Quadrant Restaurant or ECQ, the hotel’s dress-circle bar. www.mirvachotels.com.au

WALSH BAY The Sebel Pier One eh0:÷ \\\\\

11 Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay Tel 8298 9999 Fax 8298 9777 Rooms 161 Map 1 A2
This is Sydney’s first over-the-water hotel, built on a 1912 finger wharf in the Walsh Bay World Heritage precinct,
beside the Harbour Bridge. The hotel’s luxurious rooms combine original features with contemporary design. An
extensive room service menu is available, and all the rooms have internet access. www.sebelpierone.com.au

CITY CENTRE

Hotel Pensione e 0: 7 \

631–635 George St Tel 9265 8888 Fax 9211 9825 Rooms 68 Map 4 E4
Many features of this heritage building survived its transformation into a hotel, including an old staircase and
wood-panelled elevator. All rooms have stylish mosaic-tiled en suites, phones, dataports, cable TV and air
conditioning. Quad rooms are fabulous value. Breakfast boxes are also available. www.pensione.com.au

Railway Square YHA 0S7 \

8–10 Lee St Tel 9281 9666 Fax 9281 9688 Rooms 64 Map 4 E5
Located in a historic 1904 building, this YHA hostel adjoins Central Station’s Platform Zero. Some rooms are inside
converted railway carriages, while others are in the main building. Features modern design and a timber deck for
sunbathing beside the over-sized spa pool. There is an internet cafe and a tour desk. www.yha.org.au

wake up! e07 \

509 Pitt St Tel 9288 7888 Fax 9288 7889 Beds approx. 500 Map 4 E5
If your plan for Sydney is all action, this is the place for you. It is a party hostel, and here large mixed dorms are more
popular than the smaller, single-sex ones. Some hotel-style double rooms with en suites are available. Offers laundry
and kitchen facilities, a lounge room with TV and a video library. www.wakeup.com.au

Y Hotel Hyde Park eh07 \

5–11 Wentworth Ave Tel 9264 2451 Fax 9285 6288 Rooms 121 Map 4 F3
This budget hotel caters for everyone. It has a range of recently refurbished rooms, including backpacker dorms and
modern, stylish private rooms with en suite bathrooms. Coffee, tea and breakfast included in the price.
www.yhotel.com.au

Castlereagh Boutique Hotel e0: \\

169–171 Castlereagh St Tel 9284 1000, 1800 801 576 Fax 9284 1045 Rooms 82 Map 1 B5
Full of character, this hotel has a plush old-fashioned dining room, decorated with chandeliers and elaborate paint and
plasterwork. The rooms, furnished with period pieces and patterned upholstery, offer essentials such as TVs, bars, fridges
and tea and coffee facilities. www.thecastlereagh.com.au

Central Park Hotel eh:7 \\

185 Castlereagh St Tel 9283 5000 Fax 9283 2710 Rooms 36 Map 1 B4
Their “hip on a budget” slogan is a great description of this boutique hotel. Its studio rooms and light-and-airy New
York-style loft suites are complemented by neutral colours and clean-lined furniture. All rooms have cable TV, while
some have CD players and large granite bathrooms. Parking is available nearby. www.centralpark.com.au

Rydges World Square eh0÷7 \\

389 Pitt St Tel 8268 1888 Fax 9283 5899 Rooms 443 Map 4 E3
Close to Town Hall station and the monorail stop at World Square, this hotel offers comfortable, reasonably priced
rooms. The hotel’s gallery includes work by Australian luminaries such as Peter Kingston and John Coburn, as well as
important indigenous art. www.rydges.com

Blacket Hotel eh0 \\\

70 King St Tel 9279 3030 Fax 9279 3020 Rooms 42 Map 1 A4

Opened in June 2001, the Blacket is housed in the refurbished 1850s ANZ bank site designed by 19th-century
architect Edmond Samuel Blacket. There are five two-storey lofts with large bedrooms, kitchenettes and spa baths.
Ask about deals that include dinner at Level 3 restaurant. Rate includes breakfast. www.theblacket.com

The Grace eh0S: ÷7 \\\

77 York St Tel 9272 6888 Fax 9299 8189 Rooms 382 Map 1 A4
You could not be closer to the action than at The Grace as General Douglas Macarthur used the building as a base
during WWII. The hotel dates from the 1930s and its restoration has retained the building’s original Art Deco style.
Rooms are well equipped and there is a choice of three restaurants and bars. www.gracehotel.com.au
174 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Meriton World Tower eh0S: ÷7 \\\

91 Liverpool St Tel 9287 2890, 1800 214 822 Fax 9261 5722 Rooms 114 Map 4 E3
Some serviced apartments are available short term in this brand new vertical village, the tallest residential building in
Sydney. Spacious two-bedroom apartments with kitchens can sleep up to five. Everything guests might need is just a
short stroll away. Facilities include a child-minding centre, DVD players and more. www.meritonapartments.com.au

Swissôtel e0S:÷zh7 \\\

68 Market St Tel 9238 8888 Rooms 359 Map 4 E2

This deluxe, family-friendy hotel in the heart of the city will set up your room with cuddly toys, children’s DVDs and
bright bed linen and put milk and chocolate in the mini-bar for the little ones. If you or they tire of the room or view,
there is an outdoor heated pool and spa. www.swissotel.com/EN/home

Waldorf Apartment Hotel ehS÷ \\\

57 Liverpool St Tel 9261 5355 Fax 9261 3753 Rooms 48 Map 4 E3

This hotel is a short stroll away from the city shopping centres and cinemas and a slightly longer one to Darling Harbour
attractions, such as Tumbalong Park, the Chinese Gardens and IMAX Theatre. The apartments are spacious, with kitchen
facilities and balconies overlooking the city. Has a rooftop pool and free in-house movies. www.waldorf.com.au

Sheraton on the Park eh0S: ÷7 \\\\

161 Elizabeth St Tel 9286 6000 Fax 9286 6686 Rooms 557 Map 1 B5
Arriving at this hotel’s very grand entrance, guests can expect all the complete luxuries of a five-star hotel. Amenities
include marble bathrooms, stylish furnishings, dataports, 24-hour room service, helpful concierges, baby-sitting
services and lounges. Many rooms have views over the trees of Hyde Park. www.sheraton.com

The York eh0S÷7 \\\\

5 York St Tel 9210 5000 Fax 9290 1487 Rooms 120 apartments Map 1 A3
There is an understated elegance throughout this centrally-located hotel. Each of its apartments is individually
designed and has a balcony, fully-equipped kitchen and large bathroom. Apartments vary in size from studios to
executive two bedroom penthouses. Close to The Rocks and Circular Quay. www.theyorkapartments.com.au

Establishment Hotel eh0÷7 \\\\\

5 Bridge Lane Tel 9240 3100 Fax 9240 3101 Rooms 31 Map 1 B3
One of the most fashionable places in town. Its rooms, including two penthouses, have lively or tranquil colour
schemes, and marble or stone bathrooms. The hotel is in the same building as four bars, two restaurants and a
nightclub, though it is secluded from them. www.establishmenthotel.com

Hilton Sydney eh0S÷7 \\\\\

488 George St Tel 9266 2000 Fax 9265 6065 Rooms 577 Map 1 B5
An enormous renovation was carried out on this hotel, with the aim of setting new standards in luxury. The slick new
design is immediately apparent and upgraded features include stylish interiors, quality furniture, LCD TVs and avant-
garde Internet Protocol technology phones. Guests have access to the health clubs. www.hiltonsydney.com.au

DARLING HARBOUR

Citigate Central Sydney eh0S7 \\\

169–179 Thomas St, Haymarket Tel 9281 6888 Fax 9281 4237 Rooms 251 Map 4 D5
Located near Paddy’s Market in Chinatown, this hotel is close to many city attractions. Part of the Crest is made up of
the original 1902 Infants’ Hospital Building. All rooms and suites are large and guest facilities include a rooftop pool,
barbeque area and garden. The hotel specializes in arranging theatre tickets. www.mirrachotels.com.au

Four Points By Sheraton eh0S÷7 \\\

161 Sussex St Tel 9290 4000 Fax 9290 4040 Rooms 630 Map 4 D2
With 630 rooms, the contemporary Four Points is Sydney’s largest hotel. Located on the CBD side of Darling Harbour,
it is close to the restaurant and entertainment precincts including King Street and Cockle Bay wharfs. The hotel is
also an easy walk from the Queen Victoria Building and Town Hall station. www.fourpoints.com

Holiday Inn Darling Harbour eh0÷7 \\\

68 Harbour St, Darling Harbour Tel 9291 0200 Fax 9281 1212 Rooms 304 Map 4 D3
The location is great and so is the heritage-listed wool store that houses this hotel. The Holiday Inn has good facilities
for business travellers with special executive suites. The restaurant offers à la carte and casual dining plus a breakfast
buffet. Children eat for free. www.holidayinndarlingharbour.com.au

Novotel Darling Harbour eh0S÷7 \\\

100 Murray St, Pyrmont Tel 9934 0000 Fax 9934 0099 Rooms 525 Map 3 C2
These superstructure towers above the Harbourside centre at Darling Harbour are close to the Powerhouse and
Maritime Museums. The four-star quality rooms are available in many different ranges and have views across the city.
In cooler weather, guests avoid the unheated pool and play tennis instead. www.accorhotels.com.au

Key to Price Guide see p.172 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 175

BOTANIC GARDENS AND THE DOMAIN

Hotel InterContinental eh0S:÷7 \\\\

117 Macquarie St Tel 9253 9000 Fax 9240 1240 Rooms 509 Map 1 C3
The foyer and lower stories of this luxurious hotel are made up of part of the old 1851 Treasury Building. Small music
ensembles frequently perform in the lobby, where guests and visitors indulge in high tea, served on tiered cake stands.
Well-equipped rooms have window seats, chaise lounges and fine views. www.sydney.intercontinental.com

Sir Stamford Circular Quay eh0S ÷7 \\\\

93 Macquarie St Tel 9252 4600 Fax 9252 4286 Rooms 105 Map 1 C3
There is a refined but relaxed air in this intimate hotel. The decor is built around the hotel’s collection of 18th-century
antiques, and fine art. Paying a little extra per night allows guests access to the Quay Lounge, and with it a host of
benefits including complimentary breakfast, tea/coffee, drinks and faxes. www.stamford.com.au/sscq

KINGS CROSS AND DARLINGHURST

Formule 1 eh7 \

191–201 William St Tel 9326 0300 Fax 9326 0155 Rooms 115 Map 5 B1
You can count on rooms being spick and span at this reliable budget motel chain. Located just down the hill from
the famous Coke sign at the top of Kings Cross, it is close to the action. Rooms can accommodate two, three or four
people for the flat room rate. Do not expect much here, they only have TV. Limited parking. www.formule1.com.au

The Chelsea h7 \\

49 Womerah Ave, Darlinghurst Tel 9380 5994 Fax 9332 2491 Rooms 13 Map 5 C1
At this beautiful guesthouse, decorated in French Provincial and contemporary styles, your stay is made tranquil by
attentive hosts and a quiet street. Particularly popular with businesswomen, the property is gay and lesbian friendly.
On-street parking is available nearby. Breakfast included in the price. www.chelsea.citysearch.com.au

The Diamant Hotel Sydney e0:÷zh7 \\

14 Kings Cross Rd, Potts Point Tel 9295 8888 Fax 9295 8899 Rooms 76 Map 5 B1
A contemporary boutique hotel featuring all the latest high-tech gadgets, including iPod docks, 42-inch plasma TVs
with in-built internet and Wi-Fi. Second floor rooms have big walled terraces and cane outdoor loungers. The sensual
interiors feature sleek black decor while maintaining an airy sense of space. www.diamant.com.au

Hotel Altamont : \\

207 Darlinghurst Rd Tel 9360 6000 Fax 9332 2499 Rooms 14 Map 5 A2
In a past life, this hotel had Mick Jagger as a guest. Now this fun budget hotel has rooms with king- or queen-sized
beds and solid, comfy wooden furniture. There are discounted weekly rates and a few good quality backpacker
rooms: they fill up quickly so book early. Formerly a Georgian mansion. www.altamont.com.au

L’otel 0 \\

114 Darlinghurst Rd Tel 9360 6868 Fax 9331 4536 Rooms 16 Map 5 A2
This large terrace house has been converted into a designer hotel, with small but lovely rooms decorated in white
French-Provincial style with painted furniture and art pieces. There is a hip bar and restaurant downstairs, and the
hotel is close to Oxford Street’s cafés and bars. The concierge can arrange tours. www.lotel.com.au

Morgan’s Boutique Apartment Hotel e0 \\

304 Victoria St, Darlinghurst Tel 9360 7955 Fax 9360 9217 Rooms 26 Map 2 E5
This gay-friendly boutique Art Deco hotel is set in a leafy location in the café district. A rooftop terrace with glimpses
of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge add to the hotel’s charm. Rooms have cable TV and fully-equipped kitchens,
and some can accommodate a third person for an extra charge. www.parklodgesydney.com

Regents Court eh : 7 \\

18 Springfield Ave, Potts Point Tel 9358 1533 Fax 9358 1833 Rooms 30 Map 2 E5
An innovative team transformed this Art Deco gentlemen’s chambers into a stylish boutique hotel, favoured by
artists, actors and writers. Spacious and well-equipped, all studios have queen beds. A rooftop garden has lush
plants and great views of the city. Cots and child-minding available. www.regentscourt.com.au

Simpsons of Potts Point h:7 \\\

8 Challis Ave, Potts Point Tel 9356 2199 Fax 9356 4476 Rooms 12 Map 2 E4
A charming B&B at the “Paris” end of Potts Point, where the complimentary breakfast is served in a glass-roofed
conservatory. Built in 1892 as a family residence, the hotel has been exquisitely restored and boasts elegantly
designed rooms. Guests staying in the romantic Cloud Suite enjoy a private spa bath. www.simpsonshotel.com.au
176 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Blue Sydney eh0S ÷7 \\\\

6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo Tel 9331 9000 Fax 9331 9031 Rooms 100 Map 2 D5
This hotel’s glamour and reputation as the coolest in Sydney makes up for the far from spacious rooms. Guests enjoy
luxury robes and Serendipity bath products, a fabulous cocktail bar and a row of great restaurants below on the
finger wharf. All rooms are equipped with business technology and 27-inch TV screens. www.tajhotels.com

Medusa ÷ \\\\

267 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst Tel 9331 1000 Fax 9380 6901 Rooms 18 Map 5 B1
Medusa makes its own rules as only a boutique hotel can. An old Victorian row house has been transformed into
a brightly-coloured miracle of modernism, with inspiration from Caravaggio’s Medusa. Lindt chocolates and Aveda
toiletries are complimentary, as is use of a neighbouring gym. www.medusa.com.au

PADDINGTON

Hart’s Homestay Paddington 7 \\

91 Stewart St, Paddington Tel 9380 5516 Fax 9332 2860 Rooms 4 Map 6 D4
This historic, 19th-century Gothic-style cottage has a central courtyard and is located in a quiet residential heritage
precinct. A short stroll away are the shops and cafés of busy Oxford Street and Paddington’s popular Saturday art
and craft markets. Rate includes breakfast. [email protected]

Hughenden Hotel h0 : 7 \\

14 Queen St, Woollahra Tel 9363 4863 Fax 9362 0398 Rooms 35 Map 6 E4
This rambling old building, once a 19th-century family home, is restored to its original grandeur with beautifully
carved staircases and marble fireplaces. Rooms are comfortably furnished and the restaurant is very good. Writers
groups meet and artists exhibit their work here. Breakfast included in the price. www.hughendenhotel.com.au

Sullivans Hotel eh0S :÷ \\

21 Oxford St, Paddington Tel 9361 0211 Fax 9360 3735 Rooms 64 Map 5 B3
Standard rooms at this friendly, family-owned hotel face the bustle of Oxford Street. It is worth paying a tiny bit more
for a garden room that overlooks the courtyard and has free WiFi. The breakfast room, with its windows looking out
onto the street, is great for people-watching. All rooms are non-smoking. www.sullivans.com.au

Kathryn’s on Queen Boutique Bed & Breakfast z \\\

20 Queen St, Woollahra Tel 327 4535 Fax 9327 4535 Rooms 3 Map 6 E4
This charming National Trust-listed Victorian terrace offers comfort and convenience in one of Sydney’s most beautiful
streets for window-shopping – fashion, antique and gourmet food stores as well as small galleries are all found here.
Bedrooms feature antique furniture, luxury linen and balconies. Rate includes breakfast. www.kathryns.com.au

FURTHER AFIELD

Dive \\

234 Arden St, Coogee Tel 9665 5538 Fax 9665 4347 Rooms 16
A stylish hotel featured in design magazines, with rooms that feature polished floorboards, high ceilings and designer
bathrooms. Rooms also have kitchen facilities. This is a great sanctuary from the backpacker madness of Coogee
Beach. Complimentary breakfast and unlimited tea and coffee are available. www.divehotel.com.au

Hotel Unilodge ehS \\

Cnr of Broadway & Bay St, Broadway Tel 9338 5075 Fax 9338 5111 Rooms 100 Map 3 C5
This three-and-a-half star hotel is superbly located and good value. While not plush, it offers rooms with kitchen facilities, a
heated lap pool, spa, gym and a rooftop barbeque area, as well as a proximity to Chinatown, Central Station and the
western side of Darling Harbour. Convenient for nearby Sydney and UTS universities. www.unilodge.com.au

Lane Cove River Tourist Park :÷zh7 \\

Plassey Rd, North Ryde Tel 9888 9133 Fax 9888 9322 Rooms 28
Just 10 km (6 miles) from the city centre, this bushland ecotourism campground has fully serviced ensuite cabins
complete with TV, lounge and towels. It offers bushwalking, nocturnal animal spotting and stargazing tours and
has boat and mountain bike hire. Kitchen facilities available. www.lcrtp.com.au

Periwinkle Manly Cove h: \\

18–19 East Esplanade, Manly Tel 9977 4668 Fax 9977 6308 Rooms 18
A striking Federation-era mansion has been converted into a B&B, with antique furniture and colour schemes. Rooms
with a view attract only a small premium. Features high ceilings, wrought-iron verandahs and a leafy courtyard. Also
has private outdoor areas. Breakfast included in the price. www.periwinkle.citysearch.com.au

Key to Price Guide see p.172 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 177

Bundeena Beach Bed & Breakfast S \\\

75 Bundeena Drive, Bundeena Tel 9527 9977 Rooms 1

Step off the front lawn and onto the beach at this luxurious accommodation with spa bath for two and separate
open shower. Explore the Royal National Park and Aboriginal rock carvings, go bushwalking, cycling or just relax.
Rooms have kitchen facilities and rate includes breakfast. www.beachbedandbreakfast.com.au

Manly Pacific eh0S: ÷7 \\\

55 N Steyne, Manly Tel 9977 7666 Fax 9977 7822 Rooms 213
Manly’s ocean beach is one of Sydney’s most famous. It plays host to iron man competitions and triathlons, along with
herds of surfers, tourists and locals just after a suntan. Situated right on the beach, this hotel has unbeatable views of
sand and surf. All rooms are light and spacious with balconies. www.novotelmanlypacific.com.au

Meriton Bondi Junction ehS÷ \\\

95–97 Grafton St, Bondi Junction Tel 9287 2890 or 1800 214 822 Fax 9261 5722 Rooms 140
Built above the Bondi Junction bus and train interchange, the two-bedroom apartments have views of Sydney
Harbour and the ocean. Great features include full-sized kitchens and laundries, tennis and basketball courts and
virtual golf. Close to a giant, luxury shopping centre and cinema complex. www.meritonapartments.com.au

Ravesi’s e0 : \\\

Cnr Campbell Parade & Hall Sts, Bondi Beach Tel 9365 4422 Fax 9365 1481 Rooms 12
This lovely boutique hotel has been recently refurbished and epitomizes the relaxed style of beach life at Bondi. Split-
level suites cost more but are gorgeous, opening onto private terraces with ocean views. Ravesi’s has a restaurant
downstairs and popular bar, which is packed with a mix of tourists and funky locals. www.ravesis.com.au

Swiss Grand eh0S÷7 \\\

Cnr Campbell Parade & Beach Rd, Bondi Beach Tel 9365 5666 Fax 9365 5330 Rooms 203
This luxurious all-suite hotel is a kitsch take on the style of the French Riviera. Its exterior of terraces and creamy
decorative balustrades looks a little like a giant wedding cake. Inside, marble adorns the lobby’s surface. The hotel’s
beachfront location is unbeatable, with full facilities, a rooftop pool and restaurants. www.swissgrand.com.au

Medina on Crown eh0S : ÷7 \\\\

359 Crown St, Surry Hills Tel 8302 1000 Fax 9361 5965 Rooms 85 Map 5 A1
Close to the groovy Crown Street shops and restaurants, SCG and the Fox Studios, this hotel is a favourite with visiting
rock bands. It is also right above the restaurants bills, Marque and Billy Kwong. Charge-to-the-room facilities are
established at all three. Apartments are spacious and have full kitchens. www.medinaapartments.com.au

BEYOND SYDNEY

BOWRAL, SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Berida Manor h0S7 \\

6 David St, Bowral Tel 4861 1177 Fax 4861 1219 Rooms 56
Adjacent to the Royal Bowral Golf Course, this restored manor house is walking distance from the cafés and antique
stores of Bowral town. Equally good for romantic weekends or families, there is plenty to keep children occupied,
including tennis, billiards and bikes. Expensive on weekends. Includes breakfast. www.beridamanor.com.au

KATOOMBA, BLUE MOUNTAINS Carrington Hotel eh0 7 \\

15–47 Katoomba St, Katoomba Tel 4782 1111 Fax 4782 7033 Rooms 66
A popular weekend retreat, this hotel offers old-world charm in the heart of Katoomba. The basic rate is for a
budget room with shared bathroom, en suite rooms are more. The Yindi Day Spa specializes in hydrotherapy and
various facial, massage and body treatments. Breakfast included in the price. www.thecarrington.com.au

KATOOMBA, BLUE MOUNTAINS Lilianfels he0S÷7 \\\\\

Lilianfels Ave, Katoomba Tel 4780 1200 Fax 4780 1300 Rooms 85
Overlooking the Jamison Valley and a short walk from the Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains, this hotel is listed
among the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. It boasts a cosy lounge, first-class indoor and outdoor heated pools,
open fires and a library. Staff can arrange personal tours and gourmet picnic baskets. www.lilianfels.com.au

POLKOBIN, HUNTER VALLEY Peppers Guest House h0S: 7 \\\\

Ekerts Rd, Pokolbin Tel 4993 8999 Fax 4998 7739 Rooms 48
In the heart of the Hunter Valley wine district, Peppers is a luxury lodge with lovely gardens and excellent facilities.
There is also a swimming pool, spa, sauna, tennis court and boules. Friendly staff can arrange trips to nearby wineries
or a leisurely tour of the area. Breakfast included in the price. www.peppers.com.au

WHALE BEACH, PITTWATER Jonah’s h0S:7 \\\\\

69 Bynya Rd, Palm Beach Tel 9974 5599 Fax 9974 1212 Rooms 7
Originally built in 1929 as a roadhouse, Jonah’s has been one of Sydney’s most desirable destinations for many years. The
rooms have been refurbished with king-size beds, hand-crafted furniture and limestone bathrooms featuring spa baths. The
restaurant is acclaimed and the suites share its amazing views of the oceans. Breakfast is included. www.jonahs.com.au
178 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS AND PUBS

S ydneysiders are justifiably proud
of their dining scene. Australia’s
largest city has been populated
by successive waves of migrants,
all of whom have added some-
able to offer many dining options.
From a survey of different types of
restaurant in varying price brackets,
we have selected those offer-
ing good value for money.
thing of their home countries Detailed descriptions of each
to the communal table. These restaurant can be found in the
influences have spilled over into listings on pages 184–93. Casual
contemporary cuisine, which is Fresh seafood, eating places, where you can
often called “Modern Australian”. Chinese style often enjoy food that is as good
This term covers just about any ethnic as at a restaurant but cheaper, are
style the chef may fancy, loosely based featured on pages 194–7; here you will
on French cuisine. The result is that, in also find mention of pubs that have
terms of ethnic diversity, Sydney is recommended bistros and dining areas.

WHERE TO EAT the restaurants at the Opera

Quays or at one of Sydney’s
Circular Quay, The Rocks, best restaurants, Quay (see
Darlinghurst, Potts Point and p185), at the Overseas
Paddington are the areas Passenger Terminal.
where you will find the widest Many restaurants at Darling
choice of places to eat. Just Harbour, Cockle Bay and King
outside the city centre, and Street Wharf have outside
not covered in depth in these tables, so diners can enjoy the
listings, are the inner-city “eat atmosphere of the lights, the
streets” of Glebe Point Road, water and the boats.
Glebe (see p131), and King
Street, Newtown. HOW MUCH TO PAY
On the lower North Shore
is Military Road, which Compared with other major Main dining room of the Rockpool
extends from Neutral Bay world capitals, dining out in Bar & Grill (see p186)
to Mosman. It would be Sydney is relatively inexpen-
difficult to walk along any sive. The cost of a three- OPENING TIMES
of these streets and not find course meal in an average
a café or restaurant to suit restaurant is probably 25 per Most restaurants serve
your taste and budget. cent lower than its equivalent lunch from noon to 3pm and
All of the major hotels have in, say, New York or London. dinner from 6pm to about
at least one restaurant and a The cost is further reduced if 11pm, though last orders are
few of these offer beautiful you choose a BYO restaurant often at 10:30pm. Cheap and
surroundings, too. where you can avoid paying cheerful ethnic kitchens may
To enjoy a spectacular view the marked-up price of close earlier, around 9:30pm,
while you dine, start with restaurant wine by taking but this largely depends on
drinks at the Horizon Blu bar your own alcohol.However, demand. Many restaurants
at the Shangri-La Hotel (see there will usually be a close on some, if not all, public
p172), followed by any of “corkage” cost per drinker. holidays (see p51). This is par-
ticularly true of Christmas Day,
Boxing Day and Good Friday.

RESERVATIONS

Booking is recommended in
most places – earlier in the
day is usually adequate. If,
you want to be sure of a table
for Friday or Saturday in a
spot that is currently fashion-
able, however, you may need
to make a reservation up to
one month in advance. If a
restaurant says it’s full, it is
worth asking about an early
table, around 6pm, or when-
Hugo’s on Manly Wharf (see p192) ever the place opens. Many
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F É S A N D P U B S 179

casual brasseries and bistros

are open all through the day
and, as they aren’t the sort of
place where people linger over
their meal, they do not take
bookings. You may have to
wait a few minutes for a table
if you arrive at a busy time.

LICENSING LAWS

Sydney restaurants must be

licensed to sell food, but
when a place is described as
licensed, this usually refers to
its licence to sell alcohol. BYO
(bring your own) restaurants
are not licensed to sell liquor
and you will need to buy it Bondi Icebergs Dining Room and Bar (see p193)
beforehand if you want to
drink alcohol with your meal. safest option when consider- inexpensive option. Here,
A small amount will probably ing what to wear. Jackets there is a variety of eating
be charged for “corkage”. and ties are a rare sight places in one complex, inclu-
BYO restaurants not only unless the wearer has come ding Mexican and Chinese
reduce the cost of dining out, straight from the office or food outlets, pasta and salad
but also allow wine buffs to is conducting a business bars, all with a central seating
choose exactly the wines they meeting over a meal. area for convenience.
wish to drink with their meal. In line with recent trends For families who prefer to
At up-market establishments the government has imposed dine out rather than snack,
such as Claude’s (see p191), it a non-smoking policy for chains such as Pizza Hut and
is a good idea to inquire about indoor areas of all restaurants, the Black Stump steakhouses
the day’s menu, so you can pubs and clubs. However, offer special menus for
choose your wine accordingly. many venues now provide an children but they also serve
outdoor area for smokers. alcohol for the adults.
Perhaps the best locations
TAX AND TIPPING to dine out with children are
those where they can play
A 10 per cent GST is inclusive safely outside after they
in prices, although it can be have eaten. The Bathers
listed separately on the final Pavilion (see p193) is right
receipt. While tipping is not on Balmoral Beach (see
compulsory, 10 to 15 per cent pp54–5), a sheltered harbour
of the total bill is customary beach which has a netted
as a reward for good service. swimming pool. Centennial
You can leave a cash tip after Park Café (see p194) is also
you have paid or add it to the a great place for families
total if paying your bill by being within supervisory
credit card. range of grassy lawns and a
children’s playground.
EATING WITH CHILDREN
CREDIT CARDS
Most restaurants accept
children who can sit still Many restaurants will accept
Relaxing in a café at the top end of throughout a meal, although credit cards, but you should
Oxford Street, Paddington you may feel more comfortable ask if in doubt. Visa, Master-
in either Chinese restaurants card and Japanese Credit
DRESS CODES AND or the cheap pasta eateries in Bureau are widely accepted;
SMOKING East Sydney, where children Amex and Diners Club are
are always welcome. Harry’s less commonly accepted,
Dress standards in Sydney Café de Wheels (see p194) is so always check before
restaurants are really quite a roadside pie shop next to the ordering a meal. Some
relaxed, even in the more up- Finger Wharf that is a cheap restaurants also now offer
market establishments. Most and cheerful lunch option. EFTPOS transactions
restaurants will draw the line, Eat outdoors beside the (electronic money transfers
however, at patrons in beach harbour where kids can make direct from your bank
wear and flip flops. as much noise as they want. account) as an alternative
Neat and tidy is the general The Harbourside food court method of payment, which
rule. Smart casual dress is the in Darling Harbour is another may be more convenient.
180 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

The Flavours of Sydney

The city of Sydney surrounds its famous harbour, and
countless bars, restaurants and cafés have views of
sparkling sunlit water. Taking advantage of the mild
climate, outdoor eating – from morning coffee to
dinner – is the norm. The cutting-edge food scene is
often categorized with New York, London and Paris, and
Sydney’s top-class chefs are admired the world over. Sydney
is cosmopolitan, multicultural and vibrant, with the laid-back
atmosphere of the beach always nearby. Sydneysiders are
Wattleseed, pepperberry
passionate about socializing and, whether eating out or and lemon myrtle
cooking at home, food is always central to a good time.
them are still primarily wild- witchity grubs on many
harvested by aboriginal menus. These native meats
communities. Although sit alongside a vast and
native Australians never used impressive array of beef,
seasonings in their campfire lamb and of course, seafood.
cooking, modern Australians Fish native to Australia
have discovered the exciting include barramundi, trevalla
flavours of such indigenous and blue eye trevalla. The
herbs and spices as lemon popular native shellfish,
myrtle, wattleseed, mountain yabbies and moreton bay
pepperleaf, pepperberry, bugs, are similar to, but
forest berry and akudjura. smaller than, lobster. Also
Native meats such as kan- worth a mention are the
garoo and emu are also lovely fragrant honeys that
being used more frequently, are produced out of native
Fresh seafood dishes at one of the although don’t expect to see Australian forests.
city’s many upmarket restaurants
Samphire Snapper Lobster
Oysters
NATIVE INGREDIENTS Red mullet
Scallops
There are many native foods
in Australia that have been
used by aborigines for thou-
sands of years, and which
are now becoming widely
popular. Fruits and vegetables
with distinctive colours,
flavours and textures include
quandong, munthari, bush
tomato, wild limes, warrigal
greens and rosellas. All of Selection of seafood available in Sydney’s restaurants and food shops

LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES

There’s nowhere better in the world to
enjoy fish and chips than sitting on a
Sydney beach. As well as the standard
choice of hake fillets, you may find
more unusual fish on offer, such as
wild barramundi or John Dory.
Alongside traditional Asian restaurants
serving yum cha, dim sum curries and
noodles, there is plenty of modern
cuisine, fusing Asian flavours with local
produce, such as a Thai-style salad of
Anzac biscuits
kangaroo with peanuts and lime. And
you can rest assured that just about every other cuisine in
the world will be represented in Sydney in some way. Kangaroo pizza This Italian
Sandwiches and burgers are often made with Sydney’s classic is given a modern
favourite “Turkish” bread – light and fluffy, and great Australian spin with the
toasted with Vegemite or for dipping in olive oil. addition of seared lean fillet.
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 181

of habitats, from the warm

tropical northern waters to
the sub-Antarctic Tasman
sea, as well as its geographical
isolation. A total of 600 marine
and freshwater species are
caught in Australian waters,
providing chefs with plenty
of inspiration (see p202).
Every kind of fruit and
vegetable is grown in
Australia. Pineapples and
mangoes are widely grown
in Queensland, apples in
Victoria, strawberries in New
South Wales and rambutans
in the Northern Territory.
Diners enjoying an outdoor meal on the harbour at Circular Quay Exotic and notoriously hard
to farm, truffles have recently
THE WORLD ON A PLATE industry is olive oil and been cultivated in Tasmania,
balsamic vinegar production, highlighting just how
Having one of the most examples of which you are versatile Australia’s land is.
eclectic populations on earth likely to find at the cellar
means great things for food door of many vineyards.
FOOD ON THE RUN
(or “tucker”). Australians are Australia has one of the
happy with olive oil in one most diverse marine faunas Sushi Major cities are dotted
hand and fresh chilies in the in the world, due to its range with tiny counters offering
other, so no rules apply – you fresh sushi to grab on the go.
can be sure of great flavours
Juice bars This booming
using the best produce. industry is found on most city
Farming plays a very streets, serving delicious, cool
important role in Australia, blends of fruits.
the world’s largest producer
of beef. The lush pastures Milk bars As well as milk-
on the coast are particularly shakes, ice creams and salads,
these sell a wide range of
good for farming, and milk- deep-fried foods.
fed lamb from New South
Wales is as wonderful as the Coffee & cake Little cafés
brie produced in South everywhere also sell Italian-
Australia. King Island, off the style cakes and pastries.
coast of Victoria, is dedicated Pubs Most pubs serve a
to dairy produce, selling decent steak sandwich.
their amazing cheeses and
creams all around the Pies An Aussie institution, pies
country. Alongside the Fresh fruit on sale at Paddy’s are readily available. Look out
rapidly growing wine Market in Chinatown
for gourmet versions.

Grilled barramundi Served on Prawn Laksa This spicy Lamingtons These little
ginger and bok choy risotto, coconut noodle soup can be Victoria sponge cakes are
this is a great mix of local found all over the country in coated in chocolate icing
seafood and Asian flavours. noodle bars, cafés and pubs. and shredded coconut.
182 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

What to Drink in Sydney

Australia has one of or offer rare wines so these are worth
the world’s finest seeking out. Australians also enjoy some
cuisines and part of of the best good-value wine in the world.
its enjoyment is the It is estimated that there are 10,000 differ-
marriage of the ent Australian wines on the market at
country’s wine with any one time. Australians do love their
Semillon Chardonnay great food. Australians beer, and it remains a popular drink,
have a very relaxed with a wide range of choices available.
attitude to food and wine mixes, so red While the health-conscious can choose
wine with fish and a cold, dry Riesling from a variety of bottled waters and
as an aperitif can easily be the order of select-your-own, freshly-squeezed fruit
the day. Also, many of the restaurants in juices. Imported wines, beers and spirits
the wine regions offer exclusive brands, are also readily available.

SPARKLING WINE

Australia is justly famous for its sparkling

wines, from Yalumba’s Angas Brut to
Seppelts Salinger. Most recently, Tasmania
has showed considerable promise in
producing some high quality sparkling
wines, particularly Pirie from Pipers Brook.
However, the real hidden gems are the
sparkling red wines – the best are made
using the French Méthode Champenois,
matured over a number of years and
helped by a small drop of vintage port.
The best producers of red sparkling wines
are Rockford and Seppelts. These sparkling
Domaine Chandon in the Yarra Valley wines are available throughout Sydney Angus Brut
produces high-quality sparkling wines from “bottle shops”, which sell alcohol. premium

WHITE WINE

The revolution in wine making in the

1970s firmly established dry wines
made from international grape varieties
on the Australian table. Chardonnay,
Sauvignon Blanc, and more recently
Viognier and Pinot Gris are all popular.
However, in recent years there has also
been a renaissance and growing
appreciation for Riesling, Marsanne and
Semillon, which age very gracefully.
Australia’s other great wines are their
fortified and dessert wines. Australian
winemakers use botrytis cinera, or
Australian Botrytis noble rot, to make luscious dessert Some of the vines in Australia are
Riesling Semillon wines such as De Bortoli’s “Noble One”. the oldest in the world.

GRAPE TYPE STATE BEST REGIONS BEST PRODUCERS

Chardonnay VIC Geelong, Beechworth Bannockburn, Giaconda, Stoniers
NSW Hunter Valley Lakes Folly, Rosemount, Tyrrell’s
WA Margaret River Leeuwin Estate, Pierro, Cullen
SA Barossa Valley, Eden Valley Penfolds, Mountadam
Semillon NSW Hunter Valley Brokenwood, McWilliams, Tyrrell
SA Barossa Valley Peter Lehmann, Willows, Penfolds
WA Margaret River Moss Wood, Voyager, Evans & Tate
Riesling SA Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills Grosset, Pikes, Petaluma, Mitchells
SA Barossa Valley Richmond Grove, Leo Buring, Yalumba
TAS Tasmania Piper’s Brook
Marsanne VIC Goulburn Valley Chateau Tahbilk, Mitchelton
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 183

RED WINE

Australia’s benchmark red is Grange

Hermitage, the creation of the late vintner
Max Schubert in the 1950s and 1960s. Due
to his work, Shiraz has established itself as
Australia’s premium red variety. However,
there is also plenty of diversity with the
acknowledged quality of Cabernet Sauvignon
produced in the Coonawarra. Recently, there
has also been a re-appraisal of traditional “old
Vineyards of Leeuwin vine” Grenache and Mourvedre varieties in the
Estate, Margaret River Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Shiraz Pinot Noir

GRAPE TYPE BEST REGIONS BEST PRODUCERS

Shiraz Hunter Valley (NSW) Brokenwood, Lindmans, Tyrrells
Great Western, Sunbury (VIC) Bests, Seppelts, Craiglee
Barossa Valley (SA) Henschke, Penfolds, Rockford, Torbreck
McLaren Vale (SA) Hardys, Coriole, Chapel Hill
Margaret River, Great Southern(WA) Cape Mentelle, Plantagenet
Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River (WA) Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Moss Wood
Coonawarra (SA) Wynns, Lindemans, Bowen Estate
Barossa, Adelaide Hills (SA) Penfolds, Henschke, Petaluma
Yarra Valley, Great Western (VIC) Yarra Yering, Yerinberg, Bests
Merlot Yarra Valley, Great Western (VIC) Bests, Yara Yering
Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley (SA) Petaluma, Pikes
Pinot Noir Yarra Valley (VIC) Coldstream Hills, Tarrawarra
Gippsland, Geelong (VIC) Bass Philip, Bannockburn, Shadowfax

BEER

Most Australian beer is vat fermented, or lager,

and consumed chilled. Full-strength beer
has an alcohol content of about 4.8 per
cent, mid-strength beers have around
3.5 per cent while “light” beers have less
than 3 per cent. Traditionally heat sterilized,
cold filtration is now popular. Fans of real ale
should seek out one of the city’s pub brew-
eries. Beer is ordered by glass size and
Tooheys Cascade brand: a schooner is a 426 ml (15 fl oz)
Red Bitter Premium Lager glass and a middy is 284 ml (10 fl oz). Middy Schooner

FRUIT JUICES OTHER DRINKS

With the fabulous fresh fruit at Tap water in Sydney

their disposal year round, cafés is fresh and clean, but
concoct an astonishing array of local and imported
fruit-based non-alcoholic drinks. bottled water
They include frappés of fruit pulp is fashionable.
and juice blended with crushed ice; The cola gen-
smoothies of fruit blended with eration has
milk or yoghurt; and pure juices, graduated to
extracted from everything from Pear and Banana Strawberry alcoholic soft
carrots to watermelons. kiwi frappé smoothie juice drinks and
soda drinks.
COFFEE One brand,
Two Dogs
Sydney’s passion for coffee alcoholic
means that short black, lemonade,
macchiato, caffe latte, was born
cappuccino and flat when a glut
white (with milk) are of lemons
now available at every flooded the Alcoholic
neighbourhood café. Flat white coffee Caffe latte fruit market. soda
184 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES

For a three-course meal for one
person including service and cover
The restaurants in this section have been selected for charge (prices in Australian dollars):
their exceptional food and good value. Within each \ under $40
area, entries are listed alphabetically within each price \\ $40–$65
\\\ $65–$90
category, from the least to the most expensive. Details \\\\ $90–$120
of Light Meals and Snacks are on pages 194-5 and for \\\\\ over $120
Sydney’s best Pubs and Bars see pages 196-7.

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY

The Australian Heritage Hotel 7:Δ \

100 Cumberland St, The Rocks Tel 9247 2229 Map 1 B2

This pub specialises in topping pizzas with surprising combinations, including kangaroo, emu and crocodile meat.
They also offer an all-day breakfast pizza, salads and pies. During lunch it is packed with office workers jostling
for a table so it is best to take an early or late lunch or for an evening meal.

Vintage Cafe on the Rocks :Δ \

Shop R2, Nurses Walk, The Rocks Tel 9252 2055 Map 1 B2
Tucked away in a little cobble-stoned courtyard, in the earliest-settled part of Sydney, this sweet diner is a great place
for a quick lunch or afternoon pit stop. Pierce Brosnan and Princess Anne were both spotted here when in town,
though it is unknown whether they were dining on sandwiches or Devonshire tea. Big all-day breakfasts too.

East Chinese :Δ \\

Shop 8, 1 Macquarie St, East Circular Quay Tel 9252 6868 Map 1 C2
There is no secret Chinese menu at this busy restaurant, just a range of dishes from the familiar to the adventurous.
Native Australian meats, including kangaroo, emu and crocodile, are on the menu, as well as a bevy of seafood
treats, fresh from the tank. It’s the best Chinese restaurant for people-watching.

Heritage Belgian Beer Café 7: \\

135 Harrington St, The Rocks Tel 9241 1775 Map 1 A3

There are other options listed on the menu but for anyone in the know, mussels provide the only authentic Belgian
experience, cooked one of eight ways and served in a pot. Other entrées include duck salads, oysters and a selection
of Belgian Ardennes charcuterie. Of course, there are Belgian beers on tap and an amazing range of artisan brews.

Nelson’s Brasserie 7: \\

19 Kent St, The Rocks Tel 9251 4044 Map 1 A2

The best of old and new Australia combine in this restaurant with its crisp white linen and 18th-century sandstone
walls located in the heart of The Rocks. The modern Australian food is easily washed down with a beer which has
been brewed on the premises.

Opera Bar 7:Δ \\

Lower Concourse Level, Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point Tel 9247 1666 Map 1 C2
This is a great place for a refreshing stop on the way to or from the Opera House and an excellent destination in its
own right. Bar food is available from noon until 11pm, with good-value tasting plates. There are also pre-theatre,
lunch and dinner menus. Nightly entertainment sees DJs and jazz, soul and funk bands.

Young Alfred 7:Δ \\

31 Alfred St, Circular Quay Tel 9251 51 92 Map 1 B3

From the former owners of one of Sydney’s all-time favourite pizza places comes modern Italian fare and wonderfully
named pizzas dished up near the harbour, in the historic Customs House building. Try the TNT, Betty Boston and the
“surprise”. What’s on it? It depends on the chef’s mood – but it’s always delicious.

Café Sydney 7Δ \\\

Level 5, Customs House, 31 Alfred St, Circular Quay Tel 9251 8683 Map 1 B3
This buzzing restaurant, on the top floor of historic Customs House, has sweeping views. The terrace is delightful;
in winter, gas heaters keep diners warm and special resin lamps make each table glow. The kitchen’s tandoor oven,
wood-fired grill, wok and rotisserie turn out a great variety of food. There is live jazz on Sunday afternoons.

harbour kitchen & bar 7: \\\

Park Hyatt Sydney, 7 Hickson Rd, The Rocks Tel 9256 1661 Map 1 B1
Especially lovely by day, when the bustle of Circular Quay can be fully appreciated and ferries pass close by the wall
of windows. There are good-value lunch and pre-theatre deals. Modern high tea is served in the more casual kitchen,
which is a better choice for children.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 185

MCA Café 7:Δ \\\

Museum of Contemporary Art, 140 George St, The Rocks Tel 9241 4253 Map 1 B2
The menu is full of Sydney favourites such as slow-braised lamb shanks, crisp polenta spinach and gremolata, and
its fabulous location on the Circular Quay side of the MCA building, makes this restaurant a good choice (see p195).
After satisfying your sweet teeth with crème brûlée, diners head upstairs to the galleries to absorb the art.

Sailor’s Thai Δ \\\

106 George St, The Rocks Tel 9251 2466 Map 1 B3

Located at the historic Sailors’ Home, chef and Thai food expert David Thompson continues to oversee the menu
at this restaurant. Highly recommended are the crispy fish and green papaya salad, and braised beef ribs spiked
with chilli. The cheaper Canteen, upstairs, is open for lunch and dinner too.

The Wharf Restaurant 7Δ \\\

Sydney Theatre Company, Harbour end of Pier 4, Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay Tel 9250 1761 Map 1 A1
A wonderful setting in a restored wharf offering an unusual view of the Harbour Bridge. Directly opposite, Luna Park
provides an glittering backdrop of night-lights. Try the braised duck leg with rice noodle rotollo and Asian greens.
Plan to dine after 8pm to avoid the theatre crowd. Disabled access should be arranged in advance.

Wildfire 7Δ \\\

Ground Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, West Circular Quay Tel 8273 1222 Map 1 B2
This glamorous restaurant has views of the Opera House when there is no cruise ship in port. Great for a big night
out or a snack after a show. Enjoy a range of offerings from the wood-fired Brazilian churrasco grill or pull up a seat
at the Sea Bar. Mixologists create some of Sydney’s best cocktails at the intimate bar, Ember.

Altitude 7 \\\\

Level 36, Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, 176 Cumberland St, The Rocks Tel 9250 6000 Map 1 A3
One of the few places in Sydney that requires guests to look smart, anything less would clash with the super-slick
decor. Those who arrive early might sip on one of a great range of apéritif cocktails in the blu horizon bar before
supper. Altitude serves modern Australian cuisine inspired by European influences.

Aria 7 \\\\

1 Macquarie St, East Circular Quay Tel 9252 2555 Map 1 C2

With uninterrupted panoramic views of Sydney Harbour, the Opera House and the Bridge, there are many options
here, from a seven-course dégustation to a set price one, two- or three-course lunch, pre-theatre meal or supper.
Fish and seafood star in many dishes.

Guillaume at Bennelong \\\\

Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point Tel 9241 1999 Map 1 C2

You cannot beat the excitement of dining in the Opera House, especially in such a romantic, elegant space. An
emphasis on seafood produces dishes such as the steamed Murray cod served on braised baby endive. A cheaper
way to taste chef Guillaume Brahimi’s food is by ordering tapas-style served from the cocktail bar.

Rockpool 7: \\\\

107 George St, The Rocks Tel 9252 1888 Map 1 B3

Neil Perry opened his Sydney fine-dining institution in 1989 and invented modern Australian cuisine with his fusion
of European and Asian flavours. Recently refurbished in olive greens and golds, choose between a dégustation
menu of nine courses, a set course menu or á la carte.

Quay 7Δ \\\\\

Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, West Circular Quay Tel 9251 5600 Map 1 B2
Another spectacular view, and food to match, with star chef Peter Gilmore making magic out of the best and
freshest produce and combining ingredients in suprising ways. Try the confit of pure-bred Suffolk lamb. The
famous chocolate cake is to die for.

Yoshii \\\\\

115 Harrington St, The Rocks Tel 9247 2566 Map 1 A3

Ryuichi Yoshii is one of Sydney’s top sushi chefs and the author of a sushi cookbook. His restaurant serves dinner
in the kaisekistyle, a series of unique small dishes that gradually warm the stomach like a small stone (a Japanese
precursor to the hot water bottle). Though pricey, this is excellent value. Lunchtime bento boxes are cheaper.

CITY CENTRE

Bodhi in the Park 7Δ \

Cook & Phillip Park, 2–4 College St Tel 9360 2523 Map 1 C5
This is a wonderful place to come for lunch on a sunny day, or for dinner on a summer’s night, when you can sit
outside. You will be amazed by the realistic vegan versions of fish and chicken. The sang choy bau (not-pork) is
excellent, as is the signature dish, a skin-and-all vegan Peking duck. There is also a good wine and cocktail list.
186 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Indochine Café 7 \

Shop 14, 111 Elizabeth St Tel 9233 1088 Map 4 F2

Creative, authentic-tasting Vietnamese food served in a first floor location. Watch the rush on the busy street below
or just take in the sunlight streaming through the floor-to-ceiling glass windows. This is a popular weekday lunch
choice for city workers and is also open for dinner Friday and Saturday.

Mother Chu’s Vegetarian Kitchen : \

367 Pitt St Tel 9283 2828 Map 4 E3

A cheap and cheerful restaurant that offers big servings of hearty food by blending the flavours of Taiwan, China
and Japan. It’s often full of students and arty types enjoying the warm Buddhist hospitality. They offer delicious
stir-fries and curries you can trust are really vegetarian. Do not be put off by the canteen decor.

Diethnes : \\

336 Pitt St Tel 9267 8956 Map 1 B5

A Sydney institution, Diethnes has been in the same basement spot for 35 years, and you can tell. But get past the
kitsch decor, and you will find huge portions of hearty meals. With dozens of meat dishes, pastas, rice, salads and
traditional Greek fare such as tzaziki and spanakopita, there is something for everyone.

Encasa 7 \\

423 Pitt St Tel 9211 4257 Map 4 E4

Near Central Station, this casual Spanish restaurant is one of Sydney’s best. If you intend to try their signature dish,
Romesco de Peix, a Catalan seafood stew, it is best to let them know in advance. Served in an earthenware bowl, the
prawns, squid and fish swim in a traditional, hazelnut sauce. Their standards of tapas, paella and sangria are great.

GPO Woodfired Pizza 7: \\

Lower Ground Floor, GPO, 1 Martin Place Tel 9229 7722 Map 1 B4
Serving a regular pizza for $15 makes this city diner fabulous value, meaning you can dine in the restored GPO
building for a fraction of the cost of neighbours Prime and Post. The pizzas have crispy bases and the freshest
toppings. Try a salame piccante with classic toppings of tomato, mozzarella, salami and olives.

Industrie, South of France 7: \\

107 Pitt St Tel 9221 8001 Map 1 B4

This is not just a restaurant but a café, bar and club too. It’s anything you want it to be. There’s breakfast, dinner,
drinks and dancing, and it’s all infused with the flavour and spirit of the French Riviera. On Thursday nights there are
live jazz and soul bands, while on Fridays there is a resident DJ and a rotation of clubs on Saturday nights.

Slip Inn 7Δ \\

111 Sussex St Tel 8295 9999 Map 1 A4

This is the gentrified pub where Australia’s Mary Donaldson met her husband, Crown Prince Frederik of Denmark.
During the day, two menus offer modern Australian and Thai fare, best devoured in the sunny courtyard. At night, a
short and sweet selection of pizzas keeps the customers happy.

Sushi e 7 \\

Level 4, Establishment, 252 George St Tel 9240 3041 Map 1 B3

Located inside the exclusive Hemmesphere Bar, there are so many magnificent sushi and sashimi dishes on offer here;
it is impossible to list them. Ordering the set of little Asian spoons, each with a different delicious morsel, is a good
idea. You might follow this with a nigiri sushi set or test your taste buds with a chilli-loaded dynamite sushi roll.

Glass Brasserie 7: \\\

Hilton Sydney, Level 2, 488 George St Tel 9265 6068 Map 1 B5

When the Hilton completed its renovations in mid-2005 it became the snazziest hotel in Sydney. This restaurant aims
to find a happy medium between the comfort and familiarity of a hotel bistro and the quality and excitement of chef
Luke Mangan’s previous restaurant, Salt. The menu is filled with classics such as steak tartare.

Rockpool Bar & Grill … \\\

66 Hunter St Tel 8078 1900 Map 4 F1

Taking steakhouse to new heights in a heritage-listed Art Deco building, is this 2009 addition to the renowned Rockpool
stable. Premium beef is dry-aged on the premises and fish filleted in a purpose-built room. Choose the main dining
room, or offerings like Wagyu beef burgers from the less formal bar menu.

Bécasse \\\\

204 Clarence St Tel 9283 3440 Map 1 A5

Once a tiny bistro, Bécasse moved into this swanky city space. Chef Justin North does wonderful things with less
popular cuts of meat, as well as luxe updates of classics. Choose either the 10-course dégustation or à la carte for
dinner or try the good value “Producers Lunch”. Luckily, the very rich food is served in small portions.

est. 7 \\\\

Level 1, Establishment, 252 George St Tel 9240 3010 Map 1 B3

This restaurant won the 2006 Best Restaurant in Australia AHA. Head chef Peter Doyle is widely regarded as a
founding father of modern Australian cuisine, with a career spanning 30 years, he has been referred to as a
“home-grown legend”.

Key to Price Guide see p184 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 187

Spice Temple 7 \\\\

10 Blight St Tel 8078 1888 Map 4 F1

Open the video-screen door and enter a modern Chinese marvel that draws inspiration from provinces throughout
China. Chillies feature in every form – fresh, dried, salted, pickled, brined and fermented. The innovative cuisine is
served in a dark, moody basement space decorated with Chinese lanterns and red table lamps.

Forty One 7 \\\\\

Level 42, Chifley Tower, 2 Chifley Square Tel 9221 2500 Map 1 B4
This old Sydney favourite offers impressive views of the city and the harbour. Chef Dietmar Sawyere’s blend of
European and Asian flavours is a winning combination. Choose from a two-, three- or four-course menu at lunch or
a six-course dégustation dinner. A vegetarian menu is also available.

Tetsuya’s 7 \\\\\

529 Kent St Tel 9267 2900 Map 4 E3

Internationally revered and widely considered Australia’s best restaurant, Tetsuya’s serene space puts the emphasis
on the food and wine. The dégustation menus fuse Japanese flavours with French technique. Wines can be matched
to each course and vegetarian dégustations are available on request. Ask to meet the chef for a tour.

DARLING HARBOUR

BBQ King :… \

18–20 Goulburn St Tel 9267 2586 Map 4 E4

A large eatery with abrupt service and non-existent decor. Despite this it has long held cult status. To understand
why, try dining late at the end of a big night and you will discover just how welcome this hearty food can be. Almost
everyone orders the same thing, barbequed duck and Chinese beer. Open until 2am on weekends.

Pasteur : \

709 George St, Haymarket Tel 9212 5622 Map 4 E4

Finish your $9 bowl of beef and rice noodle soup and you may not need dinner. Pho is a Vietnamese speciality, which
may come with chicken or beef. These float in fragrant broth, served with a pile of mint and basil leaves, chilli and
fish sauce. Fresh spring rolls are another delicious snack, filled with pork and prawns, which you can order here.

Zibar 7:Δ \

Cnr Druitt & Sussex sts, Darling Harbour Tel 9268 0222 Map 4 E2
A small restaurant/café conveniently located between the city centre and Darling Harbour. The food is consistently
good and the coffee is arguably the best in the area. It is a busy and friendly place often filled with hotel guests from
next door and “journos” from the Sydney Morning Herald down the street.

Zilver 7 \

Level 1, 477 Pitt St Tel 9211 2232 Map 4 E4

Classic Chinese cuisine is complemented by modern presentation, ambiance and service, with interesting and delicious
food choices and complementary fruit. Yum cha draws the crowds at lunchtime, while the à la carte menu ensures a
more relaxed dinner. The legendary custard tarts are a must-have at any time.

Chinta Ria: The Temple of Love 7Δ \\

The Roof Terrace, Cockle Bay Wharf, 201 Sussex St, Darling Harbour Tel 9264 3211 Map 4 D2
Feelings of happiness are brought into this lively restaurant by the giant Buddha that takes centre stage. Its
reasonable prices and fun atmosphere make it popular with a young crowd. The fresh and spicy Malaysian
food is great for sharing and may be an aphrodisiac. Bookings are not taken for dinner, so expect long queues.

Golden Century :… \\

393–399 Sussex St Tel 9212 3901 Map 4 E4

The menu is huge, the staff are friendly and the selection of live seafood, including crab, abalone, lobster, parrot
fish, barramundi and coral trout, is enormous. But what is truly amazing about this restaurant is that its kitchen
stays open until 4am. It is not unusual to find the place full of other chefs relaxing after work.

Marigold : \\

Levels 4 & 5, 683–689 George St Tel 9281 3388 Map 4 D4

A truly enormous restaurant, Marigold takes up two floors atop a shopping arcade. Long considered Sydney’s best
yum cha, a meal of dumplings served with tea at lunchtime. At dinner, groups of six or more can choose from
banquet menus, which offer excellent value dishes such as king prawns with vegetables and crispy-skinned chicken.

Oscars Restaurant and Lounge 7:Δ \\

84 Union St, Pyrmont Tel 9660 5933 Map 3 B2

Just a short walk from Darling Harbour is this light and airy restaurant with an earthy decor and a modern look.
Good hearty “pub” food with a contemporary twist is served, complemented by a great selection of wines and
draught and bottled beers.
188 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Regal :Δ \\

347–353 Sussex St Tel 9261 8988 Map 4 E3

Away from the bustle of Dixon and Hay Streets, the Regal is decked out with glittering chandeliers and private
rooms. Waiters pushing dim sum-laden trolleys make it reminiscent of the yum cha places of Hong Kong.
Cantonese seafood is popular, as well as roast suckling pig, steamed fish chosen from the tank and Peking duck.

Taste on Sussex Lane 7Δ \\

Unit 10, 275 Kent St Tel 9299 0888 Map 4 D1

East meets west with Vietnamese styling complementing the French food at this popular destination. There is an à la
carte and a bar menu, so you can choose to dine in the bistro or the swisher and pricier restaurant. Either way, the
food is great. Diners without a booking should be prepared to queue.

The Malaya 7Δ… \\

39 Lime St, King Street Wharf Tel 9279 1170 Map 4 D1

For more than 45 years, this Sydney institution has been serving up Malaysian cuisine that packs a punch. With feisty,
flavour-filled favourites and contemporary dishes, this harbourside establishment offers excellent variety. The seafood
dishes are particularly recommended.

Zaaffran 7:Δ \\

Level 2, 345 Harbourside Shopping Centre, Darling Harbour Tel 9211 8900 Map 3 C2
The pick of Darling Harbour’s eateries, this Indian restaurant is heaven for vegetarians. The food goes beyond the
standards, to offer eggplant and okra with coconut and tamarind. Carnivores will be satisfied by an aromatic lamb
shank stew, chicken biryani or the excellent tandoori baby snapper. There are also good value set menus.

Coast 7:Δ \\\

The Roof Terrace, Cockle Bay Wharf, 201 Sussex St Tel 9267 6700 Map 4 D2
Eating fresh local seafood by the water is a quintessential Sydney experience. Business lunches by day and big groups
at night pack this popular spot on the city side of Darling Harbour. The Italian-leaning menu focuses on seafood and
the best of Australian and Italian produce.

Kobe Jones 7:Δ \\\

29 Lime St, King St Wharf, Darling Harbour Tel 9299 5290 Map 4 D1
Decorated in stylish black and red, this modern Japanese restaurant avoids being too touristy, despite front-row views
of Darling Harbour. The large menu includes signature dishes such as a trio of oyster shooters, each with a distinctive
flavour, and seared smoked salmon marinated in green tea with wasabi mash and nori cream. Great cocktails too.

Nick’s Bar & Grill 7:Δ \\\

The Promenade, Cockle Bay Wharf, Darling Harbour Tel 9279 0122 Map 4 D2
Nick’s offers a menu full of crowd-pleasers and a fabulous spot to bask in Sydney’s sunshine. At night, Darling
Harbour’s lights sparkle on the water. There is a cheap kids’ menu of fish, calamari or chicken with chips, followed
by vanilla ice cream. Grown-ups might try char-grilled tuna or octopus, served with chips and salad.

BOTANIC GARDENS AND THE DOMAIN

Pavilion on the Park 7:Δ \\

1 Art Gallery Rd, The Domain Tel 9232 1322 Map 2 D4

Close to the city centre yet serene and enchanting, the Pavilion on the Park is the ideal location to escape and enjoy
a leisurely meal on its expansive terrace surrounded by lush parkland. Open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch
and light meals.

The Hyde Park Barracks 7:Δ \\

Queens Sq, Hyde Park Barracks, Macquarie St Tel 9222 1815 Map 1 C5
A quiet retreat within the walls of the Hyde Park Barracks Museum. This café serves modern Australian fare with a
European slant (mainly traditional French and Italian), such as crisp skinned barramundi fillet served on a bed of
buttered potatoes, tomatoes and kalamata olives.

Botanic Gardens Restaurant 7:Δ \\\

Royal Botanic Gardens, Mrs Macquaries Rd Tel 9241 2419 Map 2 D4

Set among the lush greenery, this excellent value lunch venue opens on to a terrace, letting in the sounds of the
gardens, even the squawks of the famous bats. Serious gourmets might try the delicious braised lamb shoulder,
eggplant purée and harissa sauce. Weekend brunch is lovely too, and there is a café next door.

The Art Gallery Restaurant 7: \\\

The Art Gallery of New South Wales, Art Gallery Rd, The Domain Tel 9225 1819 Map 2 D4
Open only for lunch daily and also for brunch on weekends, this restaurant provides a sophisticated place to discuss
the latest exhibition. The menu is small but should please most. There is also a more casual café on the lower level,
which is great for kids, offering little cardboard boxes with sandwiches, a drink and a chocolate.

Key to Price Guide see p184 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 189

KINGS CROSS AND DARLINGHURST

Bill and Toni’s 7:Δ \

74 Stanley St, East Sydney Tel 9360 4702 Map 5 A1

A Sydney stalwart loved for its strong coffee, old-fashioned feel with their famous red tablecloths. Upstairs you will
find basic but delicious home-style Italian fare, such as spaghetti Bolognese and bistecca, and fast, friendly service.
Afterwards, head downstairs for macchiato and gelato. An excellent place to bring kids with its pinball machines.

Govinda’s :Δ \

112 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst Tel 9380 5155 Map 5 B1

Dining at this Indian vegetarian restaurant means piling up a plate of delicious curries, breads and salads from the
all-you-can-eat buffet. Many of the dishes are Indian, but pastas and casseroles are available too. For a little extra you
can see a film in the upstairs movie room, and it is best to eat afterwards to avoid drifting off in the comfy couches.

a Tavola  \\

348 Victoria St, Darlinghurst Tel 9331 7871 Map 5 B1

The centerpiece of this stylish Italian trattoria’s long, narrow dining room is a 10 m (32 ft) pink marble table for
communal dining. The menu is determined when the day’s pasta is made and fresh ingredients are in the chef’s
hands. Innovative cuisine or a simple bowl of spaghetti, you can get it all.

Fishface 7:Δ \\

132 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst Tel 9332 4803 Map 5 B2

In a tiny space which seats just 26, this restaurant offers the best value fish in town. The beer-battered fish and hand-
cut chips are famous, and there is also a sushi bar. The menu is full of appealing choices, including the signature dish
of blue-eye trevalla topped with thin rounds of potato shaped into scales. No bookings after 7pm.

Jimmy Liks 7Δ \\

186–188 Victoria St, Potts Point Tel 8354 1400 Map 2 E5

The no-bookings policy at this buzzing, modern Asian joint means you can count on a lengthy wait for a seat at the
communal table. Those who stick it out, dine on Southeast Asian treats such as betel leaves with chicken and
smoked eggplant and good-sized mains. The adjoining bar offers 25 Asian-inspired and award-winning cocktails.

Mahjong Room \\

312 Crown St, Surry Hills Tel 9361 3985 Map 5 A2

This modern Chinese restaurant, packed with a young crowd, is very different from the big Chinatown diners. Dishes
such as crispy San-Dong chicken in light ginger vinegar sauce are served at mahjong tables in a series of small rooms.
Double the experience by sharing the reasonably priced dishes.

Pink Peppercorn Δ \\

122 Oxford St, Darlinghurst Tel 9360 9922 Map 5 A2

The simple, fresh flavours of Lao cuisine can be enjoyed at this inner city restaurant with a modern, upmarket
atmosphere. Try the taam som, green papaya salad. The restaurant is decorated with three large murals depicting
scenes from Lao life.

Tilbury Hotel 7Δ \\

12–18 Nicholson St, Woolloomooloo Tel 9368 1955 Map 2 D5

The Tilbury Hotel was refurbished recently, resulting in its transformation into one of the trendiest pubs in Sydney.
The restaurant offers excellent Italian fare, and the daily menu might include lamb rack with peas, pancetta and mint.
Also has a café serving wraps, bagels and coffees.

Yellow Bistro 7:Δ \\

57 Macleay St, Potts Point Tel 9357 3400 Map 2 E4

Van Gogh yellow walls make this, one of the most famous buildings in the Cross, stand out. In the 1970s it was an
artists’ commune, which housed Brett Whiteley. Today creative genius is obvious in the food. The brunch menu is
lovely but nothing beats the celebrated date tart created by pastry chef, Lorraine Godsmark (if on the menu).

Bayswater Brasserie :Δ \\\

32 Bayswater Rd, suburb of Kings Cross Tel 9357 2177 Map 5 B1

This veteran of Kings Cross is famous for its freshly shucked oysters and friendly service. The modern Australian
menu changes with the availability of the best produce, which may include blue swimmer crab lasagne with tomato
beurre blancor rhubarb crème brûlée. Everything is handmade here, such as bread, pasta and ice cream.

Lotus Bar & Bistro Δ \\\

22 Challis Ave, Potts Point Tel 9326 9000 Map 2 E4

This sophisticated bistro with soft lighting and unique decor provides a chic atmosphere of warmth and simplicity.
The award-winning head chef, Lauren Murdoch, has produced a menu that features home-style influences with fresh
Mediterranean flavours.
190 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Manta 7Δ \\\

Wharf 9, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo Tel 9332 3822 Map 2 D4

The impressive menu at Manta changes daily to ensure that only the freshest seafood of the highest quality is
included. Look out for the steamed Tasmanian black mussels, fregola and roasted shellfish broth. As many as six
types of oyster may be available, including, in season, the superb native Angasis, Sydney Rock and Pacific.

Otto 7:Δ \\\

Area 8, The Wharf, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo Tel 9368 7488 Map 2 D4
Otto is a piece of Melbourne brought to Sydney’s waterfront and is so appreciated that it often draws celebrities,
from footballers to Kylie Minogue, to its dark and handsome surrounds. Italian fare is jazzed up with local ingredients,
such as twice-cooked pork belly, salsify, roasted garlic, olives, thyme and mugolio.

PADDINGTON

Paddington Inn 7: \

338 Oxford St, Paddington Tel 9380 5913 Map 6 D4

This perennially popular pub in the heart of the Paddington strip is especially busy on weekend afternoons, when hip
locals meet over beers and tapas-style plates. Pub classics such as bangers and mash and fish and chips are given a
restaurant touch. There are also plenty of lighter meals, such as salt and pepper prawns. Great for lunch.

Phamish :Δ \

50 Burton St, Darlinghurst Tel 9357 2688 Map 5 B2

Its no-fuss attitude means Phamish offers no wine, desserts, lunches, bookings or website. Never mind, hordes of
diners still flock here for the excellent, cheap food. You can bring your own wine, devour the large servings of fresh
and spicy modern Vietnamese food and then walk up the hill to Victoria Street for a mouth-cooling gelato.

Big Mama’s 7:Δ \\

51 Moncur St, Woollahra Tel 9328 7629 Map 6 E4

A great alternative to all the pub dining choices that abound in Paddington. It can get noisy and crowded, but that
gives it the home-style Italian atmosphere that is as enjoyable as the honest, hearty comfort food. The menu consists
of traditional Italian cuisine. Try the home-made Limoncello for the full experience.

Buzo 7: \\

3 Jersey Rd, Woollahra Tel 9328 1600 Map 6 D4

Buzo is another piece of evidence showing that bistro food is booming in Sydney. Bookings are essential at this
restaurant, just off Oxford Street. Carnivores will delight in the meaty menu, offering roast lamb, char-grilled steak
and even various offal dishes. You will need to order some side dishes to accompany your main.

Vamps Bistro :Δ \\

227 Glenmore Rd, Paddington Tel 9331 1032 Map 5 B3

This small, traditional French restaurant is situated in the heart of Paddington at The Five Ways and is a favourite with
the locals, providing as it does good food and a relaxed atmosphere. It is BYO (which is fast becoming a rarity in
Sydney), so remember to take a bottle of good Australian wine.

Bistro Moncur :Δ \\\

The Woollahra Hotel, 116 Queen St, Woollahra Tel 9327 9713 Map 6 E4
A stroll down Queen Street from the main strip, Bistro Moncur has been an eastern suburbs favourite for more than
a decade. The menu lists such French classics as sirloin café de Paris, French onion soufflé gratin and pork sausages.
No bookings, so arrive early or to start with a drink in the bar, where top jazz bands play on Sunday evenings.

Bistro Moore : \\\

Olympic Hotel, 308 Moore Park Rd, Paddington Tel 9361 6315 Map 5 C4
Across the road from the Aussie Stadium and the Sydney Cricket Ground, this bistro serves excellent modern
Australian food. There are just six entrées, pastas, mains and desserts on the seasonal menu, but you will feel spoilt
for choice because each dish is so appealing. The pasta is handmade, the coffee spot on, and puddings delicious.

Four In Hand : \\\

105 Sutherland St, Paddington Tel 9362 1999 Map 6 E3

An eye-catching painting of a giant squid greets diners to this hotel restaurant, which is now under the supervision
of chef Colin Fassnidge who produces excellent French provincial cuisine. His small but superbly constructed menu
combines French bistro with a modern touch.

Buon Ricordo \\\\

108 Boundary St, Paddington Tel 9360 6729 Map 5 C2

Ask a Sydney chef where he goes on nights off and the answer is likely to be this small restaurant. The emphasis of
the menu is Roman and Neapolitan dishes, which sees the signature dish of fettuccine with Parmesan, cream and
truffled egg tossed at table. Dishes here are said to be better than at most places in Italy.

Key to Price Guide see p184 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 191

Lucio’s 7 \\\\

47 Windsor St, Paddington Tel 9380 5996 Map 6 D3

Lucio’s is right in the middle of the area of Sydney’s art galleries and the walls of the restaurant display a collection
of contemporary Australian artists such as John Olsen, John Coburn, Gary Shead and Tim Storrier. There is art on
the plate too, the expertly cooked Italian food varies according to what is in season.

Claude’s 7 \\\\\

10 Oxford St, Woollahra Tel 9331 2325 Map 6 D4

A Sydney icon for over thirty years, this intimate restaurant in a converted terrace house seats just 40 people.
Choose between the set-price menu or the eight-course tasting menu. Dishes sound simple on paper but are
actually as close to works of art as food can get. Bookings recommended. Ring the doorbell when you arrive.

FURTHER AFIELD

Il Baretto 7:Δ \

496 Bourke St, Surry Hills Tel 9361 6163

Diners wishing to sup at this crammed café often face the longest waits in Sydney, so it is lucky the pasta is so good,
and that there is a pub across the road. Very basic pastas, such as a penne arrabiata, laced with enough chillies to
make your tongue tingle, start at $12. The duck ragu and hand-rolled gnocchi are loved by many.

Café Mint Δ \

579 Crown St, Surry Hills Tel 9319 0848

Mint’s precursor, Fez, was a top breakfast venue, often with long queues. This café is tiny and can seem equally
crammed. The coffee is excellent and food is fabulous value, particularly at lunch. For a rainbow of dips and pickles, try
the large meze plate. The Lebanese fattoush salad with garlicky, crunchy pitta bread is great.

Manly Wharf Hotel 7:Δ \

Manly Wharf East Esplanade, Manly Tel 9977 1266

Not much beats sharing a seafood platter packed with oysters, prawns, salt and pepper squid, octopus, scallops and
fish, while looking out over Sydney Harbour. Even better, this is a pub you can bring your kids to, keeping them
happy with one of the well-priced offerings from the kids’ menu. Perfect after a long day at the beach.

Maya : \

470 Cleveland St, Surry Hills Tel 9699 8663

Even almost broke vegetarians in board shorts and thongs do well at this sweet and chaat house, popular with a
diverse crowd, including students, hippies, Indian taxi drivers and foodies. Authentic treats such as thali plates of
assorted curries and breads and the famous masala dosai are promptly delivered. Finish off with some Indian fudge.

Rowda-Ya Habibi :… \

101 King St, Newtown Tel 9557 5368

Many Sydneysiders rely on Lebanese restaurants for consistently good, healthy, fresh food. Though some of the
delicacies here are deep-fried, there are more than enough salads and vegetables to make up for that bit of oil.
Servings are large and feel even bigger if you have filled up on dips and pitta first. Belly dancing on weekend nights.

Sushi Suma : \

425 Cleveland St, Surry Hills Tel 9698 8873

The number of Japanese crammed around tables in this neighbourhood restaurant tells you how authentic the food
is. The servings here are enormous so many people leave with doggy bags. When it is busy, and that is most of the
time, orders are taken from the queue and food arrives as guests are seated. Great tempura too.

Alhambra 7:Δ \\

1/54 West Esplanade Manly Tel 9976 2975

Hugely popular on Friday and Saturday nights, when flamenco dancers add to the din, this casual restaurant has
views of the Manly Wharf. The Moroccan chef cooks Moorish and Spanish food. A meal might begin with tapas
followed by a Moroccan tagine of chicken and preserved lemon or lamb and date.

Alio 7: \\

5 Baptist St, East Redfern Tel 8394 9368

Alio is just off the main drags of Crown and Cleveland Streets and worth seeking out, particularly because of the
warm room, good service and excellent food. Home-made breadsticks are a good start and mains are rich and filling.
The chef here is a good friend of Jamie Oliver’s, who dines (and sometime cooks) here when in town.

Bird Cow Fish 7:Δ \\

Shops 4 & 5, 500 Crown St, Surry Hills Tel 9380 4090
Bird Cow Fish is the perfect blend of a café and bistro. A great place to drop in for just a coffee or for a more
leisurely lunch or dinner. Modern Australian regional dishes produced in a Mediterranean style. Bistro food at its best
with generous helpings and a lively atmosphere.
192 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Blue Orange :Δ \\

49 Hall St, Bondi Beach Tel 9300 9885

You could spend your whole day here, starting with smoked salmon pancakes for breakfast, followed by chilli linguini
and chicken for lunch. By night the casual café, loved by locals and tourists alike, transforms into an intimate
restaurant with a menu drawing on African and Middle Eastern flavours. Best of all, there is jazz on Sunday nights.

Bodega 7:Δ \\

216 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills Tel 9212 7766

Spanish and South American food with all their flavours are celebrated in this restaurant with its striking mural of a
matador and a large bull. The decor is modern, combining Scandinavian furniture and Italian design. There is an
excellent wine list of Spanish and South American wines.

Bondi Trattoria 7:Δ \\

34 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach Tel 9365 4303

Every table here (inside and outside) has a spectacular view of the beach which makes this place popular with both
locals and tourists. It is a café by day and a restaurant at night, serving a fusion of traditional Italian and modern
Australian cuisine.

Garfish 7:Δ \\

2/21 Broughton St, Kirribilli Tel 9922 4322

This is the best fishy place on the North side. Not many places offer breakfasts as exciting as spanner crab omelette
with sweet chili, masala spice and raita. Diners are able to customize their dishes by selecting a type of fish, how they
would like it cooked and can even select its garnish. Very busy during weekends.

Hugo’s at Manly Wharf 7:Δ… \\

Shop 1, Manly Wharf, East Esplanade, Manly Tel 8116 8555

An old favourite in a new location offering a great mix of modern cuisine, seafood and pizza with equally great
views of the water and ferries arriving at the restaurant’s doorstep on Manly wharf. Soak up the sun or watch it
set in chic, beach house-style surroundings.

Longrain 7: \\

85 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills Tel 9280 2888

Chilli and ginger turn up the spice at Sydney’s hippest restaurant, where the giant communal tables were one of the
first in town. The Thai food lends itself well to sharing, with dishes such as mango and sweet pork and spiced curry
of duck with peanuts and mandarin juice. It has a great bar as well.

Mohr Fish : \\

202 Devonshire St, Surry Hills Tel 9318 1326

The many devotees of this classy fish and chip shop cram into its tiny space. Those who cannot find a table wait in
the neighbouring pub, the Shakespeare Hotel, or thanks to the amiable relations between the two establishments
order their fish to take away and eat next door. The legendary chips are wide, hand cut and golden. No bookings.

North Bondi Italian Food 7:Δ \\

118–120 Ramsgate Ave, North Bondi Tel 9300 4400

For food with a view and a buzzy atmosphere, this hip destination is the spot for a lazy weekend lunch or
dinner. Families come early and the fashion set late for rustic Italian fare, cool service, people watching and
magnificent views over the beach.

Pompei’s :Δ \\

126 Roscoe St, Bondi Beach Tel 9365 1233

It is a mystery how the residents of Bondi survived Sydney’s long hot summers before the arrival of this pizzeria and
gelateria. Thin-based pizzas are scattered with the freshest toppings and although the gelato kicked off a city-wide
craze, it is still the best in town. Seasonal flavours include Granny Smith apple, nectarine and roasted almond.

Uchi Lounge : \\

15 Brisbane St, Darlinghurst Tel 9261 3524 Map 4 F4

A small bar that specialises in saketinis, and a long room with warm but minimal design, provide excellent environs
for French-Japanese fusion food. The menu offers many small courses, including the chrysanthemum sushi and
wagyu beef with wasabi mash dishes.

Aqua Dining 7:Δ \\\

Cnr Paul and Northcliff Sts, Milsons Point Tel 9964 9998
Floor to ceiling windows afford fine views of the harbour and the Olympic pool immediately below. The often
luxurious menu allows the produce to shine and includes dishes such as smoked fillet of King Island beef tender
loin. Extensive wine list and weeknight dinner deals are of great value.

Billy Kwong 7 \\\

355 Crown St, Surry Hills Tel 9332 3300 Map 5 A3

If the long queues are not a dead giveaway then the smell when you walk in the door will tell you that this place is
special. Run by Kylie Kwong, Sydney’s latest celebrity chef, it specializes in traditional Chinese family food, souped
up with a modern edge. Banquets are good value and there are always beautiful flowers.

Key to Price Guide see p184 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 193

Icebergs Dining Room and Bar 7 \\\

1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach Tel 9365 9000

The first really swish restaurant to hit the surf at Bondi, this dining room is above the famous swimming pool.
The decor gives a glamourous beach feel with a palette of ocean blues, giant rustic chandeliers and a scattering
of silk cushions. Food is simple, modern Italian, such as Brodetto all’Anconetena (thick fish soup).

Orso Bayside Restaurant 7Δ \\\

79 Parriwi Rd, Mosman Tel 9968 3555

This luxurious waterfront restaurant is destined to impress, with freshest seafood and splendid views of the harbour.
Take a seat on Orso’s private jetty and be greeted by schools of fish and ducks as you enjoy seared Tasmanian
mussels followed by warm melting chocolate cake.

Red Lantern :Δ \\\

545 Crown St, Surry Hills Tel 9698 4355

A relaxed atmosphere and fiery red interior add to the enjoyment in this converted terrace. Most people, however,
visit Red Lantern because they have heard of its high standards of fresh and spicy Southern Vietnamese food. For
extra fun, order one of the “at the table” dishes you assemble yourself from rice paper or crepes. Bookings essential.

Restaurant Balzac 7: \\\

141 Belmore Rd, Randwick Tel 9399 9660

This local bistro, with its sandstone walls and think white tablecloth, is luxurious and yet relaxed. It has earned a
reputation with gourmands for its excellent Anglo-French food, reasonable prices and great service. Dégustation
menus and special deals are available. Also try treats from the tasting plate of tiny petit fours. Booking is essential.

Sean’s Panaroma 7Δ \\\

270 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach Tel 9365 4924

Like an oversized family dining room, Sean’s is intimate and friendly. Serving a small range of seasonal dishes, with a
few constants such as linguine with shredded arugula, lemon, chilli and Parmesan and the famous white chocolate
and rosemary nougat. Bookings essential.

3 Weeds Restaurant 7: \\\

197 Evans St, Rozelle Tel 9818 2788

The new Sydney bistro burst onto the inner West scene recently when this refurbished pub dining room opened.
Off Rozelle and Balmain’s main drag of Darling Street, the vibe is casual and comfortable. The food, whether bar
snacks or a three-course meal, is excellent.

Bathers’ Pavilion Restaurant 7: \\\\

4 The Esplanade, Balmoral Beach Tel 9969 5050

This classic restaurant is housed in the historic beachside changing rooms. The atmosphere is relaxed and there is a sea
view from every table. Flavours vary from Chinese to Greek, Middle Eastern to French, sometimes all in one dish. There
are great set price lunch deals during the week. The accompanying café has vegetarian options and good breakfasts.

Catalina Rose Bay :Δ \\\\

1 Sunderland Ave, Lyne Park, Rose Bay Tel 9371 0555

It has been described as Sydney’s veranda and this restaurant, which hangs over the harbour’s edge, certainly has one
of the best views. High-flyers snooze at lunchtime, while dinner at Catalina is a classic Sydney big night out. The
flavoursome modern Australian food offers plenty of variety including the roast snapper signature dish.

Flying Fish 7: \\\\

Lower Deck, Jones Bay Wharf, 19–21 Pirrama Rd, Pyrmont Tel 9518 6677 Map 3 C1
Glam meets clams, with fabulous modern Australian and Sri Lankan flavours, and a sculpture of 500 lights.
Australian soldiers embarked for World War II from this Wharf and train tracks remain along its length. History
evaporates as you stare out at the harbour views.

Marque 7 \\\\

355 Crown St, Surry Hills Tel 9332 2225 Map 5 A3

Choose between the eight-course dégustation menu, which can also be vegetarian, or the à la carte menu. The
dishes here are complex and with flavours you would never have imagined. The signature dish is a beetroot tart
served with a frothy horseradish cream.

Pier \\\\

594 New South Head Rd, Rose Bay Tel 9327 6561
This restaurant is one long, timber-panelled room which runs the length of a small pier and juts out into the harbour.
Yachts moored in the marina float all around and you would feel like you were on one if the food was not quite so
good. Good quality fish is cooked to perfection in dishes such as carpaccio of John Dory and roasted barramundi.

The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay 7: \\\\

End of Ferry Rd, Glebe Tel 9518 9011 Map 3 A3

Housed in the upper level of a boatshed, it looks out at the fish markets and busy traffic of trawlers and pleasure
crafts. The menu changes daily, but the chef keeps his signature dish of the salt and pepper mud crab. Also famous
for their wide range of freshly shucked oysters.
194 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Light Meals and Snacks

The mercurial nature of Sydney’s dining scene is visible BEST BREAKFASTS
in the multitude of establishments that open and close
each year. With cafés, this situation is magnified and, as Many belive that the as
a result of this competition, the standards are high. showpiece of celebrity chef,
Coffee is of good quality across Sydney and almost Bill Granger, bills serves the
official best breakfast. Tuck
every eatery has its own espresso machine. A surge in into his famous ricotta hotcakes
the popularity of tea has made many places switch with honeycomb butter and a
from teabags to boutique, loose-leaf black teas, tisanes healthy sunrise juice. At
and herbal brews. Tipping is unnecessary at takeaways. Darlinghurst stalwart Le Petit
While it is not essential at cafés, many have a jar on the Crème, breakfast consists of
counter where patrons leave their change as a gratuity. Parisian options, including
traditional bowls of café au lait
and croque monsieurs. For the
CAFÉS serves some of the best ultimate Sydney start to the
pastries in town, and their day, you have to head to the
Coffee culture was introduced food store is a great place water. Watch the surfers at
to Sydney by Italian migrants, to buy supplies. The French Bronte’s Swell, or the
who flooded in after World Café Sel et Poivre is very swimmers at the Icebergs
War II. Bar Coluzzi, with its popular, while Sloanes in Bistro at Bondi Icebergs
boxing pictures on the walls, Paddington is a great pit Club. At the Marina Kiosk
has long been the capital of stop for those weary after a Café, where the excitement
Darlinghurst’s caffeine king- day of treading the Oxford is in the location more than
dom. Media types, lawyers Street strip and Saturday’s the food, sit on the edge of
and taxi drivers throng here markets (see p126). the pier and dangle your feet
both for the company and the Cafés at attractions vary, over the harbour.
coffee. Toby’s Estate, a late- but generally, those at art
comer on the scene, imports, galleries and museums are TAKEAWAY FOOD
roasts and grinds its own of a high standard, while
beans. Bondi Beach’s those at sporting venues All kinds of cuisine, such as
bookshop-cum-café Gertrude are not. Opera Bar (see p184) Thai, Turkish, Afghani and
& Alice is named after on the Sydney Opera House Albanian, can be found in this
Gertrude Stein and Alice B concourse is hard to beat very multicultural city. Most
Toklas. The vegetarian Badde (see pp74–7). The Museum of cheap local restaurants offer
Manors in Glebe is Sydney Café (see p85) is also takeaway. Connoisseurs of
frequented by students. very good. Its shaded outdoor ethnic cuisines might want
Nothing revives quite like tables look out on the to catch a train or bus and
a good pot of tea. The Tea museum’s paved forecourt explore the areas specialising
Centre is an oasis of calm in a and office workers striding in them. While Leichhardt is
city shopping centre and can by. The Art Gallery Café is a Italian, you’ll find Greek and
serve you a pot of any of the smart eaterie at the Art Vietnamese restaurants in
dozens of teas they import. Gallery of New South Wales Marrickville, and Kosher cafés
In the Rocks, the Gumnut (see pp108–11) that serves in Bondi. A cluster of Indian
Café serves traditional delicious sandwiches, good restaurants can be found on
Devonshire tea with scones coffee and wine, and special Cleveland Street in Surry Hills.
and jam. Those looking for lunchboxes for children. At lunchtime, the food courts
a chocolate fix might try There is also a restaurant on of city shopping centres offer
Max Brenner or the Lindt the ground floor (see p188). a wide variety of quick, cheap
Chocolat Café, where Coveted outdoortables offer a meals. Try Galeries Victoria
treats come as dark, milk view over the Woolloomooloo and Sydney Central Plaza.
or white, and in both solid fingerwharf. At the MCA Café Above Paddy’s Markets (see
and liquid forms. (see p73), they do a brisk p99) at Haymarket, Market
Most cafés offer a menu of trade in breakfasts and lunches, City offers a selection of
sandwiches, salads, cakes and served with wonderful Opera Chinese, Japanese, Korean
muffins throughout the day. House views. and Thai food. The famous
The fabulous food at Danks Lunch amid lush greenery Food Hall at David Jones (see
Street Depot presents a is possible at the Botanic p199) has the best supplies
serious challenge to some Gardens Café (see pp104–5), for any picnic, snack, sweet
of Sydney’s top restaurants. attached to the lovely treat or takeaway dinner.
The Depot shares a converted restaurant (see p188), and If you’re craving fast food,
warehouse in a rapidly at the breezy Centennial try a Bondi burger from
gentrifying industrial area Parklands Restaurant (see Oporto, a Portuguese chicken
with a handful of galleries, p127), which also has a chain that has shops across
and is more than worth the takeaway kiosk next door, Sydney, including one in
cab fare. As well as excellent a favourite of mothers Kings Cross and another in
food, Yellow Bistro (see p189) with prams. Galeries Victoria. Takeaway
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 195

can be healthy too: top fish to your drink. Macrobiotics decades, it is particularly
(maybe without the chips) has become popular too. At popular with sailors from the
comes from A Fish Called Iku the food is flavourful as adjacent naval dockyard.
Coogee, where side dishes well as nutritious. BBQ King (see p187) is
include barbequed corn on open until 2am most nights,
the cob and wok-fried greens. LATE-NIGHT SNACKS as is noodle chain Wagamama
One of many sushi outlets, on weekends.
Sushi Train only serves the Drop in to the long-standing For real night owls, City
freshest fish and seafood. Harry’s Café de Wheels to Extra is open 24 hours.
Juice bars, such as Boost sample an Aussie meat pie Café Hernandez, also open
Juice, have sprung up all over from the stand-up bar. Having throughout the day, is famous
town, and most can add a satisfied the midnight cravings for its Spanish short black
shot of vitamins or wheatgrass of locals and visitors for tortillas and cakes.

DIRECTORY
CAFÉS Lindt Chocolat Café BEST BREAKFASTS Market City
53 Martin Place. 9-13 Hay St,
Art Gallery Café bills Haymarket.
Map 1 B4.
Art Gallery Rd, 355 Crown St, Map 4 D4.
Tel 8257 1600. Surry Hills.
The Domain. Tel 9288 8900.
Max Brenner Map 5 A3.
Map 2 D4.
Tel 9360 4762. Oporto
Tel 9225 1819. 437 Oxford St,
3C Roslyn St,
Paddington. Map 6 D4. Icebergs Bistro Kings Cross.
Badde Manors Tel 9357 5055. Bondi Icebergs Club, Map 5 C1.
37 Glebe Point Rd, 1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach.
MCA Café Tel 9380 2975.
Glebe. Map 3 B5. Tel 9130 3120.
Tel 9660 3797. Museum of Contemporary Sushi Train
Art, Circular Quay West. Le Petit Crème 570 George St.
Bar Coluzzi 118 Darlinghurst Rd,
Map 1 B2. Map 1 B3
322 Victoria St, Darlinghurst. Tel 9283 1622.
Tel 9241 4253.
Map 5 B1.
Darlinghurst. Map 5 B1.
Museum of Sydney Tel 9361 4738. Sydney Central
Tel 9380 5420.
Café Plaza
Marina Kiosk Café 450 George St.
Botanic Gardens Cnr Bridge and Phillip Sts. Rose Bay Marina, 594 New
Café Map 1 B5.
Map 1 B3. South Head Rd, Rose Bay.
Tel 8224 2000.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Tel 9241 3636. Tel 9362 3555.
Mrs Macquaries Rd. LATE-NIGHT
Opera Bar Swell
Map 2 D4. SNACKS
Sydney Opera House, 465 Bronte Rd, Bronte.
Tel 9241 2419. Tel 9386 5001.
Bennelong Point. BBQ King
Café Sel et Poivre Map 1 C2. 18-20 Goulburn St.
TAKEAWAY FOOD
263 Victoria St, Tel 9247 1666. Map 4 E4.
Darlinghurst. Map 5 B2. A Fish Called Tel 9267 2586.
Sloanes Coogee
Tel 9361 6530.
312 Oxford St, City Extra
229 Coogee Bay Rd,
Centennial Shop E4, East Podium,
Paddington. Coogee. Tel 9664 7700.
Parklands Circular Quay.
Map 5 C3.
Restaurant Boost Juice Map 1 B3.
Tel 9331 6717.
98 Bathurst St. Tel 9241 1422.
Cnr Grand & Parkes
The Tea Centre Map 4 E3.
Drives, Centennial Park. Café Hernandez
Shop 4005, The Glass Tel 9264 4007.
Map 6 E5. 60 Kings Cross Rd, Potts
House, 135 King St. David Jones Point. Map 5 C1.
Tel 9380 9350.
Map 4 E2. Cnr Market and Tel 9331 2343.
Danks Street Depot Tel 9223 9909. Castlereagh Sts.
Harry’s Café de
1/2 Danks St, Waterloo. Map 1 B5.
Toby’s Estate Wheels
Tel 9698 2201. Tel 9266 5544.
6/81 Macleay St, Cowper Wharf Rd,
Gertrude & Alice Potts Point.
Galeries Victoria Woolloomooloo.
2 Park St. Map 2 E5.
46 Hall St, Bondi Beach. Map 2 E5.
Map 4 E2. Tel 9357 3074.
Tel 9130 5155. Tel 8356 9264.
Tel 9265 6888.
Wagamama
Gumnut Café Yellow Bistro Iku 49 Lime St,
28 Harrington St, 57 Macleay St, Potts Point. 62 Oxford St, Darlinghurst. King Street Wharf.
The Rocks. Map1 B3. Map 2 E4. Map 5 B3 Map 4 D1.
Tel 9247 9591. Tel 9357 3400. Tel 9360 5351. Tel 9299 6944.
196 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Sydney Pubs and Bars Bennelong is a destination in

its own right. Another
Confusingly for the overseas visitor, Australian pubs favourite venue is Opera Bar
and bars are also known as hotels. This is because (see p184) with its spectacular
licensing laws originally required any place serving views of the city and indoor
alcohol to provide accommodation too. In the cities, and outdoor seating. On level
36 of the Shangri-La Hotel
at least, hotels have changed radically and what were (see p172), blu horizon is a
once the domains of beer-swilling males have now flamboyant bar offering a
evolved into far more civilized spots. Pub menus have range of cocktails as well as
also undergone a metamorphosis. In place of the extraordinary views over the
former meat pie and sauce, most pubs now offer hearty harbour, airport and city
snacks at remarkably low prices. All pubs serve beer, lights. The Manly Wharf Hotel
basic mixed spirit-based drinks and wine by the glass, (see p191) occupies a prime
but cocktails tend to be the preserve of the more up- position in the ferry building.
It is a great spot for a relaxed
market venues. Pubs are also often good venues for drink with friends and serves
live music (see pp214–15) and for watching telecasts of excellent food. Established in
major international and local sporting matches. 1870, the London Hotel (see
pp131, 142–3) in Balmain
RULES AND is considered bad form if you enjoys the reputation of being
CONVENTIONS do not return the favour. How- the most atmospheric pub in
ever, it can become tricky if Sydney. Those arriving early
The pubs and bars across you are on a budget. Explain can grab a tractor seat on the
Sydney operate under various that you are only staying for balcony and sip local Red
licensing schemes. In general, one drink. Back beer while soaking up
those located in quiet neigh- the most unusual view.
bourhoods close at 10pm on HISTORIC PUBS
weekdays and midnight on STYLISH BARS
Friday and Saturday nights. Hotels have been part of
Many pubs in busy tourist Sydney life since the early Sydney has no lack of
areas such as Darlinghurst, days of the colony. Many of beautiful people, or of places
Kings Cross and near Central the town’s old pubs are in for them to play. Those who
Station stay open much later; The Rocks and while you wish to dive into the social
some even have 24-hour will spot some on George scene might head to the pricey
licences. Street, others are hidden in Hugo’s Lounge, Mint Bar and
You must be at least 18 backstreets. The Hero of Dining at the luxurious Hotel
years of age to buy or Waterloo (see p69), built in InterContinental (see p175),
consume alcohol, or to even 1843, has a maze of stone Water Bar at Blue Sydney (see
enter many bars. Anyone cellars underneath. First p176) or the new Zeta at the
under 30 should carry photo licensed in 1841, the Lord Hilton Sydney (see p174).
ID such as a driver’s licence Nelson (see p172) now Overlooking Taylor Square,
or passport. Children and brews its own ales. It offers a Middle Bar is hip yet relaxed,
teenagers under 18 are often bistro and a few guest rooms. as is Longrain (see p192). The
allowed to join their parents The Australian Heritage Hotel smart little bar at the tiny
in outdoor beer gardens and (see p184) boasts a pizza Lotus Bar & Bistro (see p189)
pub restaurants. It is also menu that features crocodile, continuously wins awards for
against the law for a hotel to kangaroo and emu meat, the best cocktails in Sydney.
serve alcohol to someone making it a favourite with Darlinghurst’s The Victoria
who is inebriated. The locals and visitors. The Room feels like an estate in
management can refuse London Tavern (see p124), colonial Singapore, and serves
service and may not allow the oldest pub in Paddington, tapas-style food. In the CBD,
people who seem drunk to opened in 1875. Underneath the fashionable Establishment
enter a bar. the glamorous new Hilton Hotel (see p174) is home to
Dress requirements vary and Sydney hotel (see p174) the several bars, including the
these too are at the discretion ornate Marble Bar is much as eponymous ground-floor spot,
of the publican. Up-market it was when built in 1893. a post-work favourite for city
bars might require patrons to suits. Also on the hotel
look stylish, sometimes ban- BARS WITH VIEWS grounds is the exclusive
ning sneakers, though very Hemmesphere, decorated like
few insist on suit jackets. In a city built around one of a Moroccan lounge. Con-
Local pubs might refuse entry the world’s most beautiful temporary chandeliers, chairs
to those in flip flops or shorts. harbours, it will not be out suspended from the ceiling, a
One aspect of traditional of the ordinary to find a scattering of silk cushions and
pub culture is the custom of plethora of bars with magnif- endless ocean views make the
“shouting”, or buying drinks icent views. Many restaurants ultra swish Icebergs Dining
for your companions. When have compact bars attached. Room and Bar (see p193) the
someone buys you a drink, it The bar at Guillaume at best of the lot.
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S A N D P U B S 197

LOCAL FAVOURITES Five Ways (see p126), the Ravesi’s. Even after most other
busy Paddington Inn (see bars close, Baron’s in Kings
Join the locals at city p190) and, at the top of Cross offers drinks and back-
nightspot, Arthouse Hotel, Oxford Street, the Light gammon long into the night.
which hosts life-drawing Brigade Hotel. The newly-
classes and live music on renovated Tilbury Hotel (see TOURIST CENTRAL
some nights, DJs on others. p189) is another trendy pub
The lovely Art Deco Civic in town and plays jazz on Those who enjoy being
Hotel, with a small cocktail Sunday afternoons. The crowd surrounded by fellow
bar and a large main bar, is here and at the Green Park travellers should try the Bondi
low-key in the early evening, Hotel is usually a mix of gay Hotel, Cargo Bar in Darling
but turns into a club on week- and straight. The Bank Hotel in Harbour, The Coogee Bay
end nights. Paddington has a Newtown hosts lesbian nights Hotel or Irish pub Scruffy
surfeit of pubs and some of every Wednesday. In Bondi, Murphy’s. Forrester’s in Surry
the best are the Royal Hotel at suntanned locals frequent Hills is famed for its $7 steaks.

DIRECTORY
HISTORIC PUBS Manly Wharf Hotel The Victoria Room Paddington Inn
Manly Wharf Esplanade. 231a Victoria St, 338 Oxford St,
The Australian Tel 99771266. Darlinghurst. Paddington.
Heritage Hotel Map 5 B2. Map 6 D4.
Opera Bar
100 Cumberland St, Tel 9357 4488 Tel 9380 5913.
Sydney Opera House,
The Rocks. Map 1 B2. Bennelong Point. Water Bar Ravesi’s
Tel 9247 2229. Map 1 C2. Blue Sydney, 6 Cowper 118 Campbell Pde,
Tel 9247 1666. Wharf Rd, Bondi Beach.
Hero of Waterloo Woolloomooloo Tel 9365 4422.
81 Lower Fort St, STYLISH BARS Map 2 D5. Royal Hotel
Millers Point. Tel 9331 9000. 237 Glenmore Rd,
Map 1 A2. Establishment Paddington.
Hotel and Zeta
Tel 9252 4553. Level 4, Hilton Sydney, Map 5 C3.
Hemmesphere Tel 9331 2604.
488 George St.
London Tavern Levels 1 and 4, 252
George St. Map 1 B3.
Map 1 B5. Tilbury Hotel
85 Underwood St,
Tel 9265 6070 12–18 Nicholson St,
Paddington. Tel 9240 3000.
Woolloomooloo.
Map 6 D3. Hugo’s Lounge LOCAL Map 2 D5.
Tel 9331 3200. 33 Bayswater Rd, FAVOURITES Tel 9368 1955.
Potts Point. Map 5 B1.
Lord Nelson Arthouse Hotel TOURIST CENTRAL
Tel 9357 4411.
19 Kent St, Millers Point. 275 Pitt St.
Icebergs Dining Map 4 E2. Bondi Hotel
Map 1 A2.
Room and Bar Tel 9284 1200 Cnr Campbell Parade and
Tel 9251 4044. 1 Notts Ave, Curlewis St, Bondi Beach.
Bank Hotel
Marble Bar Bondi Beach. Tel 9130 3271.
324 King St, Newtown.
Tel 9365 9000.
Level B1, Hilton Sydney, Tel 8568 1988. Cargo Bar
488 George St. Longrain 52–60 The Promenade,
Baron’s
Map 1 B5. 85 Commonwealth St, King St Wharf.
5 Roslyn St, Kings Cross.
Surry Hills. Map 4 F4. Map 4 D2.
Tel 9265 6072. Map 5 C1.
Tel 9280 2888. Tel 9262 1777.
Tel 9358 6131.
BARS WITH VIEWS Lotus Bar & Bistro The Coogee Bay
Civic Hotel Hotel
22 Challis Ave, Potts Point. 388 Pitt St
blu horizon Cnr Coogee Bay Rd and
Map 2 E4. (Cnr Goulburn St).
Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, Arden St, Coogee.
Tel 9326 9000. Map 4 E4. Tel 9665 0000.
176 Cumberland St. Tel 8080 7000.
Middle Bar Forrester’s
Map 1 A3.
Kinsela’s, 383 Bourke St, Green Park Hotel 336 Riley St,
Tel 9250 6250. Darlinghurst. 360 Victoria St, Surry Hills.
Guillaume at Map 5 A5. Darlinghurst. Map 4 F5.
Tel 9331 3100. Map 5 B2. Tel 9211 2095.
Bennelong
Tel 9380 5311.
See p185. Mint Bar and Dining Scruffy Murphy’s
Hotel InterContinental, cnr Light Brigade Hotel Hotel
London Hotel Bridge & Phillip sts. 2 A Oxford St, Woollahra. 43–49 Goulburn St.
234 Darling St, Balmain. Map 1 C3. Map 6 D4. Map 4 E4.
Tel 9555 1377. Tel 9240 1220. Tel 9331 2930. Tel 9212 0874.
198 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

SHOPS AND MARKETS

T he shopping options in
Sydney is wide and the
quality of merchandise is
usually good. The inner city has
innumerable elegant arcades and
Souvenir
boomerangs
Chanel, are imported and
local talent in many fields,
notably jewellery, fashion and
indigenous arts and crafts, is
promoted. Nor does the most
shopping galleries, with plenty of nooks interesting shopping stop at the city
and crannies to explore. The range of centre; there are several “satellite”
goods on offer is enormous – most alternatives. Some of the best shopping
international labels, Gucci, Vuitton and areas are highlighted on pages 200–1.

when using traveller’s cheques. your passport and onward

Department stores will ticket. Some stores will also
exchange goods or refund deliver your goods to the
your money if you are not airport to be picked up on
satisfied, provided you have departure. Duty-free items
kept your receipt. Other must be kept in their sealed
stores will only refund if bags until you leave the city.
an item is faulty. There is also You can claim back the
a Goods and Services Tax GST paid on most goods,
(GST) which by law must be purchased for (or in a single
displayed in the marked price. transaction of) $300 or more,
at the airport.
SALES

Many shops conduct sales

A typical junk-shop-cum-café all year round. The big
in Balmain (see p131) department stores of David
Jones and Myer have two
SHOPPING HOURS gigantic and chaotic clearance
sales every year. The post-
Most shops are open from Christmas sales start on 26
9am to 5:30pm each day of December and last into
the week, though some may January. The other major sale
close early on Sundays. time is during July, after the
High-end boutiques open end of the financial year.
from 10am to 6pm. On
Thursdays, most shops stay TAX-FREE SALES
open until 9pm. Most shops in
Chinatown are open late every Duty-free shops are found Chifley Tower, with the Chifley
evening and on Sundays. in the centre of the city as Plaza shopping arcade at its base
well as at Kingsford Smith
HOW TO PAY Airport (see p228). You can ARCADES AND MALLS
save ten per cent on goods
Major credit cards are accepted such as perfume, jewellery, The Queen Victoria Building
almost everywhere. You will watches and perhaps up to (see p82) is Sydney’s most
need identification, such as 30% on alcohol at duty-free palatial shopping space.Four
a passport or driver’s licence, shops but you must show levels contain more than 200
shops. The top level, Victoria
Walk, is devoted to merchan-
dise such as silver, antiques,
designer knitwear and high-
quality souvenirs.The Strand
Arcade (see p84) was origi-
nally built in 1892. Jewellery,
chocolates, coffee shops and
tea rooms are its stock in trade.
Pitt Street Mall has several
shopping centres. Sydney
Central Plaza, contains upmar-
ket stores such as Calibre,
selling designer menswear,
Saba, a popular Australian
fashion label, and Nine West,
Inside Gleebooks, popular with students and locals in Glebe (see p131) offering shoes and handbags.
 S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 199

Next door to the Hilton, the

Galeries Victoria houses the
fantastic Kinokuniya book-
store, which sells a variety of
both Australian and American
imprints as well as Chinese
and Japanese language, anime
art books and stationery.
The Mooks store is packed
with designer streetwear for
men and women from the
eponymous label, as well as
international brands such as
G-Star and Camper.
Nearby in Pitt Street, the
marble and glass of Piccadilly Greengrocer’s display of fresh fruit and vegetables
houses more than 40 stores
and flashy boutiques, includ- magnificent store spreads out DIRECTORY
ing quality jewellers. in two buildings, across the
The MLC Centre, which road from each other on Chifley Plaza
faces onto Castlereagh Street, Market and Elizabeth streets. 2 Chifley Square. Map 1 B4.
and Chifley Plaza also cater to The food hall on the lower Tel 9221 6111.
the prestige shopper. Gucci, ground floor is famous for its
gourmet fare and fine wines. David Jones
Cartier, Tiffany & Co,
The first David Jones store Cnr Elizabeth & Market Sts.
MaxMara, Kenzo are just
some of the shops here. opened in 1838, and they Map 1 B5. Tel 9266 5544.
The Harbourside Shopping claim to have the oldest Also: Cnr Market & Castlereagh
Centre has dozens of shops, department store in the world Sts. Map 1 B5. Tel 9266 5544.
plus several waterfront restau- still trading under its original Harbourside Shopping
rants. The atmosphere is name. Myer now operate 60 Centre
festive and the merchandise stores across Australia, and Darling Harbour. Map 3 C2.
includes fine arts, jewellery, their first store opened in Tel 9281 3999.
duty-free shopping, beachwear 1900. The Myer store here in
and Australiana. Sydney has a ground floor Galeries Victoria
packed with makeup and 500 George St. Map 1 B5.
DEPARTMENT STORES accessories, including a large Tel 9265 3888.
MAC counter. Both the Market City
The David Jones and Myer Sydney stores of these 9–13 Hay St, Haymarket.
chains compete fiercely, each famous chains sell women’s Map 4 D4. Tel 9288 8900.
snaring exclusive rights to clothing, lingerie, menswear,
MLC Centre
stock various local design baby goods, children’s
19–29 Martin Place.
talents and international clothes, toys, stationery,
labels. The David Jones in kitchenware, furniture, china, Map 1 B5. Tel 9224 8333.
Sydney, or DJs, is legendary crystal and silver. Myer
for its spring floral displays, as 436 George St. Map 1 B5.
well as for its luxurious SHOPPING FURTHER Tel 9238 9111.
perfumery and cosmetics hall AFIELD
on the ground floor. The Piccadilly
Good shopping areas outside 210 Pitt St. Map 1 B5.
central Sydney are Balmain, Tel 9267 0722.
for village-style shopping; Queen Victoria Building
Double Bay, with its chic, 455 George St. Map 1 B5.
though pricey, boutiques; the Tel 9264 9209.
enormous mega-mall
Westfield Bondi Junction
Shopping Spree Tours
which is only a short train Tel 1300 558 353.
journey away and has over Strand Arcade
447 shops; and Left Bank- 412–414 George St. Map 1 B5.
style student haunts of Tel 9232 4199.
Newtown and Glebe. Bargains Sydney Central Plaza
can be found at the factory
100 Market St. Map 4 E2.
outlets in Redfern, Market
Tel 8224 2000.
City and at Birkenhead Point.
Shopping Spree Tours Westfield Bondi Junction
arrange day trips to a 500 Oxford St, Bondi Junction.
number of little-known Map 4 F3. Tel 9947 8000.
Part of the spring floral display, factory outlets in their mini-
David Jones department store bus, with lunch provided.
200 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Sydney’s Best: Shopping Streets and Markets

Sydney’s best shopping areas range from galleries,
arcades and department stores selling expensive
gifts and jewellery (see pp198–9), to boutiques of
extroverted or elegant cutting-edge fashion and its
accessories. The range of styles is impressive – both
international couture brands and acclaimed local
designer labels (pp204–5). The city’s hip fringe areas
are alive with street fashion and its accoutrements.
Colourful markets are a delight for collectors and
bargain-hunters alike (p203), while those who seek
out the quirky and one-off items are well catered for,
as are those looking to take home qualitycraft and
indigenous art as mementos of their visit. Specialist
browsers will find a tempting selection of book and The Rocks Market
music shops (pp206–7) from which to choose. At weekends, the stalls offer
affordable arts and crafts
and jewellery. (See p203.)
THE ROCKS AND
CIRCULAR QUAY

CITY
CENTRE

Queen Victoria Building

Darling Harbour This elegant shopping gallery offers
Quality Australiana, surf four floors of designer wear, gifts,
and beach wear, souvenir and speciality stores amid cafés.
ideas, children’s clothes,
colourful knits and art
and craft shops abound. DARLING
HARBOUR

Chinatown
This is the place to find
discounts on watches,
Sydney Fish Market
gold jewellery,
You can buy fresh seafood daily in the
opals and even
colourful fishmongers’ halls or order from
fabrics. There
the cafés which spill out on to the sunny
are also Chinese
terrace alongside the marina. (See p202.)
butchers’ shops,
0 metres 500
herbalists and
supermarkets.
0 yards 500
 S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 201

City Centre
Dazzling shopping arcades and smart
malls are dotted throughout the city
centre, notably Pitt Street Mall, Strand
and Piccadilly Arcades, and Centrepoint.

Castlereagh Street
The city’s designer row is
home to Chanel, Gucci,
Hermés and others. The most
exclusive names cluster near
the King Street intersection.
BOTANIC
GARDENS AND
THE DOMAIN
Darlinghurst
and Surry Hills
These suburbs are
the youth culture
barometer: young
designers, leather
à la mode, gay
fashion, hot music
KINGS CROSS AND and gifts for those
DARLINGHURST
who love quirky
collectables.

PADDINGTON

Paddington Markets
Considered by many to be
Paddington and Woollahra Sydney’s best market and a
Up-market clothing, shoes, homeware and showcase for the up-and-
gourmet food are on show here, while cafés coming fashions, it is held
and galleries add to the allure. Queen every Saturday. (See p203.)
Street, Woollahra, is the antique shop strip.
202 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Sydney Fish Market

Each day, 65 tonnes (tons) of no other bids are accepted, and
fresh fish and other seafood are the deal is made. This unusually
sold at the Fish Market’s Dutch quiet auction starts at 5:30am
Clock auction. According to this every Monday to Friday, and runs
system, prices start high, and for two to three hours until all
gradually descend on a the seafood is sold. Members of
computerized “clock”, until a the public can follow the auction
buyer puts in a bid. At this point, Balmain bug proceedings from a viewing area.

The waterfront cafés

offering fine seafood at
reasonable prices make
dining here a rare treat.

Blue swimmer crabs

have a mild flavour and
are found all around the
Australian coastline.

About 30 wholesalers, many

of them family concerns, buy
bulk quantities of the day’s
catch; some also have retail
outlets at
the mar-
ket itself.

Local fishermen send their fish to the market anytime between

4pm the previous day and 8am on the day of the auction.
Most of the catch is from the far coasts of New South Wales.

SELECTING YOUR FISH

SHELLFISH

Freshwater crayfish Cuttlefish Blue swimmer crab Tiger prawn

FRESHWATER FISH

Rainbow trout Golden perch Murray cod Barramundi

SALTWATER FISH

Coral trout Blue-eyed trevalla Flounder

John dory

Opah Ocean perch Leatherjacket Red emperor

 S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 203

Markets
Scouring markets for the cheap, the cheerful and the PADDY’S MARKETS
chic has become a popular weekend pastime in Sydney. (See p99.)
Weekly or monthly markets that suit both the bargain-
In the 19th century, Paddy’s in the
hunter and the serious shopper have sprung up all over Haymarket was the city’s fringe
the suburbs. Caps, souvenir t-shirts, leather jackets, market and also the location of
high-class art – there is something to suit every taste. fairgrounds and circuses. Today, it
Even more popular are the Sydney Fish Market and the has between 500 and 1,000 stalls
under one roof. Early birds will
produce markets, which team with people from early in get the best flowers, fruit, vegeta-
the morning and have turned shopping into a big event. bles and seafood. There are also
good buys in caneware, luggage,
BALMAIN MARKET GLEBE MARKET leather goods, tools, homewares,
ornaments, souvenirs and toys.
Cnr Darling St and Curtis Rd, Glebe Public School, Glebe Point THE ROCKS MARKET
Balmain. @ 442, 434. Road, Glebe. Map 3 B5. @ 431, 433.
Open 8:30am–4pm Sat. Open 10am–4pm Sat.
George St, The Rocks. Map 1 B2.
Held in the grounds of St Andrews A treasure-trove for the junk shop @ 431, 432, 433, 434.
Congregational Church in the enthusiast and canny scavenger, Open 10am–5pm Sat & Sun.
shade of a fig tree said to be more this market is bright, changeable
and popular with the inner-city At weekends, rain or shine, a sail-
than 150 years old, this compact like canopy is erected at the top
market attracts both locals and grunge set. Best buys are bric-à-
brac and crafts made from recycled end of George Street, transforming
tourists. Fees from stallholders the area into an atmospheric
contribute to the ongoing restora- wood, metal and glass. Get there
marketplace. Get there early to
tion of the church, which was early for bargain porcelain and, if
beat the afternoon crowds. There
built in 1853. As well as stalls you are lucky, the odd undervalued
are about 140 stalls, whose wares
selling children’s wear, second- lithograph. A few fashion students are unique rather than inexpensive.
hand books, contemporary and also sell their creations. You will Quality is a priority here. Look out
antique jewellery, arty mirrors, also find handmade bags, hats and for wind chimes, pewter picture
recycled stationery, stained-glass jewellery. Second-hand clothes are frames, pub poster prints, oils,
mobiles and Chinese healing balls, a good buy here, as are leather leather goods, wooden toys, gold-
there is a food hall where you can wallets, silver rings and pendants, plated bush leaves, and jewellery
find fresh and aromatic Japanese, books, CDs and records. made from wood, shell, silver or
Thai, Indian and specialist crystal. Every Friday in November
vegetarian dishes in the making. THE GOOD LIVING
GROWERS’ MARKET the Rocks Market hosts “Markets
by Moonlight”, a combination of
BONDI BEACH MARKET night markets, live music and
Pyrmont Bay Park, opposite Star City outdoor bars and food stalls.
Casino. Map 3 C1. @ light rail from
Bondi Beach Public School, Campbell
Central. Open 7–11am first Saturday
Parade, North Bondi. @ 333, 380. SYDNEY FISH MARKET
of every month.
Open 10am–5pm Sun in
Get in early; by 8am long lines (See p131.)
summer; 4pm in winter.
snake back from each of the stalls Sydney is famous for its fresh sea-
Many Sydney fashion labels start selling coffee, bread and pastries. food and the Sydney Fish Market
off here, as did current darlings This is the place to find native is the ideal place to buy it. The
Sass & Bide (see p204). There Australian bushfoods, such as displays of seafood are arresting,
are also lots of second-hand lemon myrtle linguini, dried bush with coral reds, marble pinks, greys,
clothing buys; funky 1970s gear tomatoes, nutty wattleseed and blacks and iridescent yellows to
is particularly popular. Arrive early pepperberries. There is everything take your mind off the sloshy floors
as some of the stalls are all set up you will need to cook a gourmet and the smell of the sea. The mar-
by 9am. The best bargain clothes feast, including poultry, beef, pork ket also has a sushi bar, fish cafés,
are near the back of the market. and venison from around NSW; a bakery, a gourmet deli, a poultry
Expect to see the odd actor or lesser-found vegetables such as and game specialist, a bottle shop,
rock star among the browsers. wild mushrooms, cavolo nero and and a vegetable shop. The Sydney
golden beetroot; and delicacies Seafood School operates above
THE ENTERTAINMENT such as honey, cheese and fudge. the market, offering lessons in
QUARTER Fresh flowers are available too. preparing and serving seafood.

PADDINGTON MARKETS SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE

Lang Rd, Moore Park. Map 5 C5.
MARKET
@ Oxford St or Anzac Pde routes. (See p126.)
Open 10am–3:30pm Wed, Sat, From nouveau to novelties, there Western Boardwalk, Sydney Opera
10am–4pm Sun. (See p126.) is always something tempting House. Map 1 C2. @ 438.
There is plenty of fresh produce here, and it is unlikely you will Open 9am–5pm Sun & public hols.
and gourmet delicacies to sample come away empty-handed. Silver Under calico market umbrellas,
at the Farmers Produce Market jewellery is abundant, so prices are you will find arts and crafts in
every Wednesday and Saturday, very competitive; there are also a spectacular setting. Some call
located next to the working Fox children’s clothes, leather goods, this a distillation of the best, and
Studios, where films such as unusual buckles, belts and acces- certainly you will not find T-shirts
Mission Impossible 2 and the Star sories, stationery, candles, and and cheap souvenirs, but rather
Wars prequels were shot. There is oddities such as babies’ baseball goods that have been either hand-
a Merchandise Market on Sunday. caps and rubbery novelty masks. made or hand-finished.
204 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Clothes and Accessories

Australian style was once an oxymoron. Sydney now Castlereagh Street, along
offers a plethora of chic shops as long as you know with Chanel. The Queen
where to look. Top boutiques sell both men’s and Victoria Building is home to
women’s clothing, as well as accessories. The city’s Bally, and Martin Place has
“smart casual” ethos, particularly in summer, means resident A-listers such as
Prada and Giorgio Armani.
there are plenty of luxe but informal clothes available. Diesel is further afield on
Oxford Street.
AUSTRALIAN FASHION INTERNATIONAL LABELS
SURF SHOPS
A number of Sydney’s fashion Many Sydney stores sell
designers have attained a designer imports. For the best For the latest surf gear, look no
global profile, including ranges, visit Belinda – a further than Bondi where the
Collette Dinnigan and Akira women’s and men’s boutique – streets are lined with shops
Isogawa. Dinnigan’s is filled as well as others in Double selling clothing, swimwear and
with lacy evening gowns Bay, and the MLC Centre. boards of all sizes to buy and
whereas Japanese-born In Robby Ingham Stores you hire. Serious surfers and
Isogawa makes artistic cloth- will find women’s and men’s novices should check out
ing for women and men. ranges including Chloé, Paul Between the Flags and Bondi
Young jeans labels such as Smith and Comme des Garçons. Surf Co. Besides stocking its
Ksubi (for men and women) For shoe addicts, Cosmopolitan own beachwear label, Rip
and Sass & Bide (women only) Shoes stocks labels such as Curl also sells Australian
have also shot to fame, with Dolce & Gabbana, Sonia Rykiel, brands such as Tigerlily and
celebrities wearing their Dior and Jimmy Choo. Hype Billabong. Labyrinth and The
denims. Nearby is Scanlan & DC also offers all the latest Big Swim are hugely popular
Theodore, a stalwart of the ranges. New Zealand designers swimwear shops packed with
Australian fashion scene. Zambesi offer their own bikinis by designers such as
Other shops are Dragstar, designs for women and men Jet and Seafolly.
where women’s and children’s as well a range of Martin
clothes come in the tradition Margiela pieces. CLOTHES FOR CHILDREN
of retro favourites, such as
bright sundresses and minis. LUXURY BRANDS Department stores, David
The quirky Capital L boutique Jones and Myer (see
houses the hottest names in Many visitors like to shop pp198–9), are one-stop
Aussie fashion, while for international labels such shops for children’s clothes,
Zimmermann offers women’s as Louis Vuitton, which from newborn to teenage.
and girls’ clothes and is you will find located in Look out for good quality
famous for its swimwear. Lisa
Ho is the place to go for a
SIZE CHART
frock, with designs ranging
from pretty sundresses to Women‘ s clothes
Australian 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
glam gowns. Head to Farage
American 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
Man & Farage Women for
British 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
quality suits and shirts.
Continental 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
High-street clothing can be
found in and around Pitt Street Women‘ s shoes
Mall and Bondi Junction. Here Australian 6–6½ 7 7½–8 8½ 9–9½ 10 10½–11
you will find both international American 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
and homegrown fashion British 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Continental 36 37 38 39 40 41 42
outlets. Sportsgirl sells funky
clothes that appeal to both Men‘ s suits
teens and adult women. The Australian 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Witchery stores are a favourite American 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
among women for their stylish British 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
designs. Just Jeans doesn’t just Continental 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
sell jeans; it stocks the latest Men‘ s shirts
trends for men and women. Australian 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45
General Pants has funky American 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18
street labels such as One British 14 15 15½ 16 16½ 17 17½ 18
Teaspooon and Just Ask Continental 36 38 39 41 42 43 44 45
Amanda. Surry Hills is the Men‘s shoes
place for discount and vintage Australian 7 7½ 8 8½ 9 10 11 12
clothing; check out Zoo American 7 7½ 8 8½ 9½ 10½ 11 11½
Emporium. New designers try British 6 7 7½ 8 9 10 11 12
out their wares in Bondi, Glebe Continental 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
and Paddington markets.
 S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 205

Australian labels such as Fred jewel-coloured resin. Collect, using all kinds of precious and
Bare and Gumboots. Mambo, the retail outlet of Object semi-precious stones.
Dragstar and Zimmermann Gallery, is another place to Australian hat designer, Helen
(see above) also sell fun and look for handcrafted jewellery, Kaminski, uses fabrics, raffia,
unusual kidswear. scarfs, textiles, objects, straw, felt and leather to make
ceramics and glass by leading hats and bags. In a different
ACCESSORIES and emerging Australian style altogether, Crumpler use
designers. At Makers Mark (see high-tech fabrics to make bags
The team behind Dinosaur pp206–7) the jewels feature that will last a century. And in
Designs are some of Australia’s unique South Sea pearls, classic a street of designer names,
most celebrated designers. sapphires and diamonds or Andrew McDonald’s little studio
They craft chunky bangles, unusual materials, such as shop doesn’t cry for attention,
necklaces and rings, and also wood. In her plush store, Jan but he does sell handcrafted
bowls, plates and vases, from Logan sells exquisite jewellery, shoes for men and women.

DIRECTORY
AUSTRALIAN Sportsgirl Bally CLOTHES FOR
FASHION Skygarden, Pitt St. Map 1 Ground floor, Queen CHILDREN
B5. Tel 9223 8255. Victoria Building. Map 1
Akira Isogawa David Jones
Witchery B5. Tel 9267 3887.
12A Queen St, Woollahra. Cnr Elizabeth & Market
Map 6 E4. Tel 9361 5221. Sydney Central Plaza, & Chanel sts. Map 1 B5.
Level 2, Strand Arcade. Pitt St. Map 4 E2. Tel
70 Castlereagh St. Map 1 Tel 9266 5544.
Map 1 B4. Tel 9232 1078. 9231 1245.
B5. Tel 9233 4800.
Myer
Capital L Zimmermann
Diesel 436 George St. Map 1
333 South Dowling St, Shop 2, 2–16 Glenmore
408–410 Oxford St, B5. Tel 9238 9111.
Darlinghurst. Map 5 A3. Rd, Paddington. Map 5
B3. Tel 9357 4700. Paddington. Map 6 D4.
Tel 9361 0111. ACCESSORIES
Tel 9331 5255.
Collette Dinnigan Zoo Emporium
180b Campbell St, Surry Gucci Andrew McDonald
33 William St,
Hills. Map 5 A2. MLC Centre, 15–25 58 William St, Paddington.
Paddington. Map 6 D3.
Tel 9380 5990. Martin Place. Map 1 B4. Map 6 D3. Tel 9358
Tel 9360 6691.
Tel 9232 7565. 6793.
Dragstar INTERNATIONAL
535a King St, Newtown. Prada Collect
LABELS
Tel 9550 1243. 44 Martin Place. Map 1 417 Bourke St, Surry Hills.
Belinda B4. Tel 9231 3929. Map 5 A3. Tel 9361 4511.
Farage Man & 39 William St,
Farage Women Louis Vuitton Crumpler
Paddington. Map 6 D3. The Strand Arcade.
Shops 54 & 79, Level 1 63 Castlereagh St. Map 1
Tel 9380 8728.
Strand Arcade. Map 1 B5. Map 1 B5.
B5. Tel 1300 883 880.
Tel 9231 3479, Cosmopolitan Tel 9222 1300.
Shoes SURF SHOPS
General Pants Dinosaur Designs
Cosmopolitan Centre,
Queen Victoria Building. See pp206–7.
Knox St, Double Bay. Tel Between the Flags
Map 4 E2. Tel 9264 2842.
9362 0510. 152–158 Campbell Pde, Helen Kaminski
Ksubi Bondi Beach. Shop 3, Four Seasons
Hype DC
16 Glenmore Rd, Tel 9365 5611. Hotel, 199 George St.
Cnr Market St & Pitt St
Paddington. Map 5 B3. Map 1 B3. Tel 9251 9850.
Mall. Map 1 B5. Tel 9221
Tel 9361 6291. Bondi Surf Co.
5688. Jan Logan
72-76 Campbell Parade,
Lisa Ho 36 Cross St, Double Bay.
Robby Ingham Bondi Beach. Tel 9365
43 Queen St, Woollahra. Tel 9363 2529.
Stores 0870.
Map 6 D4. Tel 9327 6300.
424–428 Oxford St, Makers Mark
Just Jeans Paddington. Map 6 D4. Labyrinth
72 Castlereagh St. Map 1
Mid City Centre, Pitt St. Tel 9332 2124. 30 Campbell Parade, Bondi
B5. Tel 9231 6800 (by
Map 4 E2. Tel 9223 8349. Beach. Tel 9130 5091.
Zambesi appointment only).
Sass & Bide 5 Glenmore Rd.
Rip Curl
132 Oxford St, Tel 9331 1140.
82 Campbell Parade, Bondi
Paddington. Map 5 B3.
Tel 9360 3900. LUXURY BRANDS Beach. Tel 9130 2660.

Scanlan & Theodore Giorgio Armani The Big Swim

122 Oxford St, 4 Martin Place. 74 Campbell Parade,
Paddington. Map 5 B3. Map 1 B4. Bondi Beach.
Tel 9380 9388. Tel 8233 5800. Tel 9365 4457.
206 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Specialist Shops and Souvenirs

Sydney offers an extensive range of gift and souvenir Darling Harbour. The Coo-ee
ideas, from unset opals and jewellery to Aboriginal art Aboriginal Art Gallery boasts
and hand-crafted souvenirs. Museum shops, such as at a large selection of limited
the Museum of Sydney (see p85) and the Art Gallery of edition prints, hand-printed
NSW (see pp108–11), often have specially commissioned fabrics, books and Aboriginal
items that make great presents or reminders of your visit. music. The long-established
Hogarth Galleries Aboriginal
Art Centre has a fine
ONE-OFFS BOOKS reputation and usually holds
work by Papunya Tula and
Specialist shops abound in The larger chains such as Balgo artists and respected
Sydney – some practical, Dymocks and Angus & painters such as Clifford
some eccentric, others simply Robertson’s Bookworld have Possum Tjapaltjarri (see p111).
indulgent. Ausfurs sells every- a good range of guide books Works by urban indigenous
thing from luxurious and maps on Sydney. For artists can be found at the
sheepskin coats and jackets more eclectic browsing, try Boomalli Aboriginal Artists’
to pure wool handknits and Abbey’s Bookshop, Ariel and Cooperative.
mohair rugs. Gleebooks, while Berkelouw
Wheels & Doll Baby is a Books has three floors of OPALS
powder-room, 1950s chic, a new, second-hand and rare
mixture of rock’n’roll heaven books. The Bookshop Sydney offers a variety of
and Hollywood glamour. The Darlinghurst specializes in opals in myriad settings.
Hour Glass stocks traditional- gay and lesbian fiction and Flame Opals is a family run
style watches, while designer non-fiction. The State Library store, selling stones from all
sunglasses such as Armani of NSW (see p112) bookshop the major Australian opal
and Jean Paul Gaultier can be has a good choice of fields. At Opal Fields you can
found at The Looking Glass. Australian books, particularly view a museum collection
For a touch of celebrity on history. of opalised fossils, before
glamour, Napoleon Perdis buying from the wide range
Cosmetics sells a huge array MUSIC of gems. Giulian’s has unset
of make-up and bears the opals, including blacks from
name of Australia’s leading Several specialist music shops Lightning Ridge, whites from
make-up artist to the “stars”. of international repute can be Coober Pedy and boulder
Or, for some eclectic fashion found in Sydney. Red Eye opals from Quilpie.
and homewares, try a branch Records is for the streetwise,
of Orson & Blake, the one in with its collectables, rarities, JEWELLERY
Surry Hills has a good café. alternative music and concert
tickets. Central Station Long-established Sydney
AUSTRALIANA Records and Tapes has main- jewellers with 24-carat
stream grooves, plus rap, hip reputations include Fairfax &
Australiana has become more hop, and cutting edge dance Roberts, Hardy Brothers and
than just a souvenir genre; it is music. Birdland has a massive Percy Marks. World-class
now an art form in itself. selection of blues, jazz, soul pearls are found in the waters
Done Art and Design has and avant-garde. Folkways off the northwestern coast of
distinctive prints by Ken and specializes in world music, Australia. Rare and beautiful
Judy Done on a wide range of Waterfront in world and left- examples can be found at
clothes, swimwear and acces- of-centre and Utopia Records Paspaley Pearls.
sories, while at Weiss Art you has an impressively Bill Hicks Jewellery’s award-
will find tasteful, mainly black comprehensive stock of hard winning owner can create
and white, minimalist designs rock and heavy metal. unique one-off pieces
on clothes, umbrellas, baseball Michael’s Music Room sells according to your designs.
caps and cups. Makers Mark classical music only, Alternatively, browse their
is a showcase for exquisite specialising in historical and ready-made collection.
work by artisans in wood, glass contemporary opera Dinosaur Designs made its
and silver. The Queen Victoria recordings. name with colourful, chunky
Building’s Victoria Walk (see resin jewellery, while at Love
p82) is dominated by shops ABORIGINAL ART & Hatred, jewelled wrist cuffs,
selling Australiana: souvenirs, rings and crosses recall lush
silver, antiques, art and crafts. Traditional paintings, fabric, medieval treasures. Jan Logan
The Australian Museum jewellery, boomerangs, carvings is an iconic Australian jew-
(see pp88–9) has a small shop and cards can be bought at the ellery designer, with stores in
on the ground floor. It sells Aboriginal and Pacific Art. Melbourne, Hong Kong, and
slightly unusual gift items such You can find tribal artifacts London. Choose from beautiful
as native flower presses, bark from Aboriginal Australia at and unusual contemporary
paintings and Australian animal several shops in the pieces, otherwise the shop
puppets, puzzles and games. Harbourside Shopping Centre, also carries antiques.
 S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 207

DIRECTORY
ONE-OFFS BOOKS Fish Records Opal Fields
350 George St. 190 George St, The Rocks.
Ausfurs Abbey’s Bookshop
Map 1 B3. Map 1 B2.
10 Charles St, 131 York St. Map 1 A5.
Tel 9233 3371 Tel 9247 6800.
Chipping Norton. Tel 9264 3111.
Folkways One of two branches.
Tel 0402 115 712. Angus & Robertson
282 Oxford St,
The Hour Glass Bookworld JEWELLERY
Westfield, Bondi Junction. Paddington. Map 5 C3.
142 King St.
Tel 9369 2099. Tel 9361 3980. Bill Hicks Jewellery
Map1 B5.
One of many branches. Michael’s Music Suite 1005/155 King St.
Tel 9221 2288.
Room Map 4 E1. Tel 9231 0994.
Ariel
The Looking Glass
42 Oxford St, Paddington. Shop 17, Town Hall Dinosaur
Queen Victoria Building.
Map 5 B3. Square. Map 4 E3. Designs
Map1 B5.
Tel 9332 4581. Tel 9267 1351. Strand Arcade. Map 1 B5.
Tel 9264 3696.
Berkelouw Books Red Eye Records Tel 9223 2953.
Napoleon Perdis 19 Oxford St, Paddington One of two branches.
66 King St, Sydney.
Cosmetics Map 5 B3. Map 1 B5.
74 Oxford St, Fairfax & Roberts
Tel 9360 3200. Tel 9299 4233.
Paddington. Tel 9331 44 Martin Place.
Also at:
1702. Map 5 A2. www. 70 Norton St, Leichhardt. Utopia Records Map 1 B4.
napoleoncosmetics.com Tel 9560 3200. 233 Broadway, Broadway. Tel 9232 8511.
www.berkelouw.com.au Map 3 C5. Tel 9571
Orson & Blake Hardy Brothers
6662.
83–85 Queen St, The Bookshop 60 Castlereagh St.
Woollahra. Map 6 E4. Darlinghurst ABORIGINAL ART Map 1 B5.
Tel 9326 1155. 207 Oxford St, Tel 9232 2422.
Also at: Darlinghurst. Map 5 A2. Aboriginal and
Tel 9331 1103. Pacific Art Jan Logan
483 Riley St, Surry Hills.
36 Cross St, Double Bay.
Map 4 F5. 2 Danks St, Waterloo.
Dymocks Tel 9363 2529.
Tel 8399 2525. www. 424 George St. Tel 9699 2211.
orsanandblake.com.au Map 1 B5. Boomalli Aboriginal Love & Hatred
Tel 9235 0155. Artists’ Cooperative Strand Arcade.
Wheels & Doll Baby
One of many branches. 191 Parramatta Rd, Map 1 B5.
336 Crown St,
Darlinghurst. Gleebooks Annandale. Map 3 A5. Tel 9233 3441.
Map 5 A2. 49 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe. Tel 9560 2541. Paspaley Pearls
Tel 9361 6255. Map 3 B5. 2 Martin Place.
Coo-ee Aboriginal
Tel 9660 2333.
Art Gallery Map 1 A4.
AUSTRALIANA
Lesley Mackay’s 31 Lamrock Ave, Bondi Tel 9232 7633.
Australian Museum Bookshop Beach.
Percy Marks
Shop Queens Court, Queens St, Tel 9300 9233.
Woollahra. Map 6 E4. 60–70 Elizabeth St.
6 College St. Map 4 F3.
Tel 9328 2733. Hogarth Galleries Map 1 B4.
Tel 9320 6150.
Aboriginal Art Tel 9233 1355.
State Library Centre
Done Art and
of NSW Shop
Design 7 Walker Lane, off Brown
Macquarie St. Map 1 C4.
123 George St, The Rocks. St, Paddington.
Tel 9273 1611.
Map1 B2. Map 5 C3.
Tel 9251 6099. MUSIC Tel 9360 6839.
One of several branches.
Birdland OPALS
Makers Mark Suite 909/45 Market St.
72 Castlereagh St. Map Map 1 A5. Flame Opals
1 B5. Tel 9231 6800 (by Tel 9267 6811. 119 George Street,
appointment only). The Rocks. Map 1 B2.
Central Station Tel 9247 3446.
Weiss Art Records and Tapes
85 George St, The Rocks. 46 Oxford St, Darlinghurst. Giulian’s
Map1 B2. Map 4 F4. 2 Bridge St. Map 1 B3.
Tel 9241 3819. Tel 9361 5222. Tel 9252 2051.
208 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

ENTER TAINMENT IN SYDNEY

S ydney has the standard of
entertainment and nightlife
you would expect from a
cosmopolitan city. Everything
from opera and ballet at Sydney
modern dance and rock and
pop concerts. Pub rock thrives
in the inner city and beyond;
and there are many nightspots
for jazz, dance and alternative
Opera House to Shakespeare by music. Movie buffs are well
the sea at the Balmoral Beach catered for with film festivals,
amphitheatre is on offer. Venues art-house films and foreign titles,
such as the Capitol, Her Majesty’s A Wharf Theatre as well as the latest Hollywood
production poster
Theatre and the Theatre Royal blockbusters. One of the features
play host to the latest musicals, while of harbourside living is the free outdoor
Sydney’s many smaller theatres are entertainment so, for children, a Sydney
home to interesting fringe theatre, visit can be especially memorable.

Many venues have half an hour before the show.

leaflets about forth- The major agencies will take
coming attractions, overseas bookings.
while the major Buying tickets from touts is
venues have infor- not advisable, if you are
mation telephone caught with a “sold on” ticket
lines and websites. you will be denied access to
the event. If all else fails,
BUYING TICKETS hotel concierges have a repu-
tation for being able to secure
Some of the most hard-to-get tickets.
popular operas,
Sydney Theatre (see p210) on Hickson Road, shows, plays and CHOOSING SEATS
Walsh Bay ballets in Sydney are
sold out months in If booking in person at either
INFORMATION advance. While it is better to the venue or the agency, you
book ahead, many theatres do will be able to look at a
For details of events in the set aside tickets to be sold at seating plan. Be aware that in
city, you should check the the door on the night. the State Theatre’s stalls, row
daily newspapers first. They You can buy tickets from the A is the back row. In Sydney,
carry cinema, and often arts box office or by telephone. there is not as much
and theatre, advertisements Some orchestral performances difference in price between
daily. The most comprehensive do not admit children under stalls and dress circle as in
listings appear in the Sydney seven, so check with the other cities.
Morning Herald’s “Metro” box office before buying. If If booking by phone with
guide every Friday. The Daily you make a phone booking one of the agencies, you will
Telegraph has a gig guide on using a credit card, the tickets only be able to get a rough
daily, with opportunities to can be mailed to you. idea of where your seats are.
win free tickets to special Alternatively, tickets can be The computer will select the
events. The Australian’s main collected from the box office “best” tickets.
arts pages appear on Fridays
and all the papers review new
films in weekend editions.
Tourism NSW information
kiosks have free guides and
the quarterly What’s on in Dar-
ling Harbour. Kiosks are found
at Town Hall, Circular Quay
and Martin Place. Where Maga-
zine is available at the airport
and the Sydney Visitor Centre at
The Rocks. Hotels also offer
free guides, or try www.
sydney.citysearch.com.au.
Music fans are well served
by the free weekly guides
Drum Media and 3-D World
and Brag, found at video and
music shops, pubs and clubs. The annual New Mardi Gras Festival’s Dog Show (see p49)
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S Y D N E Y 209

BOOKING AGENCIES

Sydney has two main ticket

agencies: Ticketek and
Ticketmaster. Between them,
they represent all the major
entertainment and sporting
events. Ticketek has more
than 30 outlets throughout
NSW and the ACT, open from
9am to 5pm weekdays, and
Saturdays from 9am to 4pm.
Opening hours vary between
agencies and call centres, so The Spanish firedancers Els Comediants at the Sydney Festival
check with Ticketek to
confirm. Phone bookings: display at 9pm for families as other requirements or call
9am–9pm, Monday to well as the midnight display. Ideas Inc, who can provide a
Saturday, and 9am–7pm The Sydney Festival in Jan- list of Sydney’s most wheel-
Sundays. For internet book- uary is a huge extravaganza chair-friendly venues. The
ings, visit their website. of performance and visual art. Sydney Opera House has
Ticketmaster outlets are Various outdoor venues in the disabled parking, wheelchair
open 9am–5pm Monday to Rocks, Darling Harbour and access and a loop system in
Friday – some are open later. in front of the Opera House the Concert Hall for the
Phone bookings: feature events to suit every hearing impaired. A brochure,
9am–9pm taste, including musical pro- Services for the Disabled, is
Monday to ductions, also available.
Saturday and drama,
10am-5pm dance, exhibitions and DIRECTORY
Sunday. circuses. The most popular
Agencies accept free event are the USEFUL NUMBERS
traveller’s symphony and jazz
cheques, bank A busker concerts held in the CitySearch
cheques, cash, at Circular Quay Domain. Also popular are www.sydney.citysearch.com.au
Visa, MasterCard Darling Harbour’s Hoopla
(Access) and Amex. Some in April and the food and Sydney Visitor Centre
agencies do not accept Diners wine festival held in June at Tel 1800 067 676 or 9240 8788.
Club. A booking fee applies, Manly Beach.
www.sydneyvisitorcentre.com.au
plus a postage and handling
charge if tickets are mailed DISABLED VISITORS Ideas Inc
out. There are generally no
refunds (unless a show is Many older venues were not Tel 1800 029 904.
cancelled) or exchanges. If designed with the disabled Sydney Opera House
one agency has sold out its visitor in mind, but this has
allocation for a show, it is been redressed in most newer Information Desk
worth checking with another. buildings. It is best to phone Tel 9250 7111.
the box office beforehand to Disabled Information
DISCOUNT TICKETS AND request special seating and
Tel 9250 7175.
FREE ENTERTAINMENT
The Access Foundation
Tuesday is budget-price day
Tel 9692 9322, 1300 222 377.
at most cinemas. Some inde-
pendent cinemas have special www.accessibility.com.au
prices throughout the week.
The Sydney Symphony Tourism NSW
Orchestra and Opera Australia Tel 132 077.
(see p212) offer a special www. visitnsw.com.au
Student Rush price to full-time
students under 28 but only if TICKET AGENCIES
surplus tickes are available.
These can be bought on the Ticketek
day of the performance, from
Tel 132 849.
the box office at the venue.
Outdoor events are espec- www.ticketek.com.au
ially popular in Sydney, and
many are free (see pp48–51). Ticketmaster
Sydney Harbour is a splendid Tel 136 100.
setting for the fabulous New The highly respected Australian www.ticketmaster.com.au
Year’s Eve fireworks, with a Chamber Orchestra (see p212)
210 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Theatre and Film

Sydney’s theatrical venues are well known for their The Sydney Opera House
atmosphere and quality. There is a stimulating range of regularly has performances
productions, ranging from musicals, classic plays and for children.
Shakespeare by the Sea to contemporary, fringe and In the suburb of Killara,
experimental theatre. Comedy is also finding a strong the Marian St Theatre for
Young People stages the
niche as a mainstream performance art. Prominent occasional theatrical
playwrights include David Williamson, Debra Oswald, production. With luck, you
Brendan Cowell, Stephen Sewell and Louis Nowra. may even be able to see a
Australian film-making has also earned an excellent performance by the incredibly
international reputation. A rich variety of both local and athletic Flying Fruit Fly Circus.
foreign films are screened throughout the year, as well This troupe, aged from eight
as during eagerly anticipated annual film festivals. to eighteen, excels in aerial
gymnastics.

THEATRE (STC) has just introduced an FILM

ensemble of actors, employed
Sydney’s larger, mainstream full time, who will perform a The city’s main commercial
musicals, such as those of minimum of two plays each cinema, Greater Union
Andrew Lloyd Webber, are season. Most STC productions Complex, is in George Street,
staged at the Theatre Royal, are at The Wharf or the new just one block south of Town
the opulent State Theatre Sydney Theatre at Walsh Bay, Hall, and screens the most
(see p82) and the Capitol though some are staged in recent film releases. Similar
Theatre (see p99). The Star the Drama Theatre of the multiplexes, such as Hoyts
City entertainment and casino Sydney Opera House (see at Broadway, can be found
complex boasts two theatres, pp74–7). in the Entertainment Quarter
the Showroom, and the first- The Bell Shakespeare on Driver Avenue, and in
rate Lyric Theatre for musical Company interprets the Bard Bondi Junction in the
productions and stage shows. with an innovative slant Westfield Shopping Centre.
Smaller venues also offer a without tampering with the The IMAX Theatre (see p92)
range of interesting plays and original text. Its productions in Darling Harbour has a
performances. These include are ideal for young or wary giant, 8-storey screen and
the Seymour Theatre Centre, theatre-goers. While venues shows 2D and 3D films made
which has three theatres; the vary, there are two seasons in specifically for the large
Belvoir Street Theatre, which Sydney – one at the beginning screen. Many of these are
has two; the Ensemble Theatre, of summer and one in autumn. suitable for children.
a theatre-in-the-round by the Street performances and Cinephiles flock to Palace
water; and the Footbridge open-air theatre are popular Academy Twin and Palace
Theatre. The Griffin Theatre during the summer months Verona on Oxford Street, and
specialises in works by new when life in Sydney moves to the Dendy Cinemas at
Australian playwrights, while outdoors. Shakespeare by the Newtown and Opera Quays.
the new Parade Theatre at the Sea, at lovely Balmoral Beach Cinema Paris shows arthouse
National Institute of Dramatic (see p55), has no need for and indie films, and often
Arts (NIDA) showcases work painted backdrops. screens Bollywood movies as
by NIDA’s acting, directing For the adventurous, the well. The Reading Cinema
and production students Sydney Festival (see p49) regularly shows the latest
throughout the year. It also offers a celebration of Chinese films. Foreign films
hosts shows by other theatre original, often quirky, are usually screened in the
groups. The well-respected Australian theatre, dance, original language with
Sydney Theatre Company music and visual arts. Once English subtitles.
considered somewhat For a movie and a meal,
frivolous, it has now devel- Govinda’s (see p189), which
FILM CENSORSHIP
oped the reputation of having is also an Indian restaurant,
RATINGS serious artistic depth, while screens films that have just
G For general exhibition maintaining its unique flavour finished their run at the
PG Parental guidance of Sydney in the summer. cinemas. The admission price
recommended for those includes a tasty vegetarian
under 15 years CHILDREN’S THEATRE buffet dinner.
M 15+ Recommended for The latest screenings are
mature audiences aged 15 Sydney thrives on spectacles usually at 9:30pm, although
and over that delight children, and their most major cinema complexes
MA 15+ Restricted to parents. You will often find run shows up to as late as
people 15 years and over jugglers, mime artists, buskers midnight. Commercial cinema
R 18+ Restricted to adults and magic shows at Circular houses offer half-price tickets
18 years and over Quay and around Darling on Tuesday, while Palace and
Harbour (see p91). Dendy do so on Monday.
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S Y D N E Y 211

FILM FESTIVALS from around the world. In COMEDY

February, Tropfest (see p49)
The Sydney Film Festival is a shows local short films that Sydney’s most established
highlight of the city’s calendar can be no longer than seven comedy venue, the Comedy
(see p51), screening some 200 minutes. Each must feature Store is known for
new features, shorts and the special Tropfest signature performances by the best of
documentaries from all over item, which in past years has the touring comedians and is
the globe. Tribute sessions and included a rock, a pickle owned by the same people
retrospectives are also present- and a match. who organise the Sydney
ed. The main venue is the State Run by Queer Screen, the Comedy Festival. Monday is
Theatre but there are satellite New Mardi Gras Film Festival comedy night at The Old
screenings at other venues. (see p49), starts mid-February Manly Boatshed, where both
The Flickerfest International and continues for 15 days. local and visiting comics
Short Film Festival (see p49) Films dealing with issues perform. The Roxbury Hotel
is held at the Bondi Pavilion relevant to the lesbian, gay hosts comedy several nights
Amphitheatre at Bondi Beach and transgender community a week. Newcomers to the
in early January. It screens are shown at various inner- stage mix wth seasoned
shorts and animation films city venues. professionals.

DIRECTORY
THEATRE Beach. Tel 9969 0824. FILM Reading Cinema
www.shakespeare-by- Level 3, Market City, 9 Hay
Bell Shakespeare the-sea.com Cinema Paris St, Haymarket.
Company Entertainment Quarter,
Map 4 E4. Tel 9280 1202.
Tel 8298 9000. www. Star City Driver Ave, Moore Park.
80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont. www.
bellshakespeare.com.au Map 5 C5. Tel 9332 1633.
Map 3 B1. Tel 9777 9000. readingcinemas.com.au
Belvoir Street Dendy Cinemas
Theatre Lyric Theatre Box office Opera Quays FILM FESTIVALS
25 Belvoir St, Surry Hills. Tel 9777 9000. Shop 9/2, East Circular
Tel 9699 3444. www.starcity.com.au Quay. Tel 9247 3800.
Flickerfest
www.belvoir.com.au International Short
State Theatre Govinda’s Film Festival
Capitol Theatre 49 Market St. Map 1 B5. 112 Darlinghurst Rd. Map Tel 9365 6888.
13 Campbell St, Tel 9373 6852. www. 5 A2. Tel 9380 5155. www.flickerfest.com.au
Haymarket. Map 4 E4. Tel statetheatre.com.au
www.govindas.com.au
9320 5000. Box office Sydney Festival New Mardi Gras
tel 1300 136 166. www. Greater Union Festival
Tel 8248 6500. www.
capitoltheatre.com.au Complex Tel 9332 4938. www.
sydneyfestival.org.au
505–525 George St. queerscreen.com.au
Ensemble Theatre Sydney Theatre Map 4 E3. Tel 9273 7431.
78 McDougall St, Kirribilli. Sydney Film
22 Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay. www.greaterunion.com.au
Tel 9929 8877. Box Festival
Map 1 A2. Tel 9250 1999.
office tel 9929 0644. Hoyts at Broadway Tel 9318 0999. www.
www.ensemble.com.au Sydney Theatre Broadway Shopping
sydneyfilmfestival.org
Company Centre, 3 Bay St. Map 3
Footbridge Theatre
Tel 9250 1777. www. C5. Tel 9211 1911. www. Tropfest
University of Sydney,
sydneytheatre.com.au hoyts.com.au Tel 9368 0434.
Parramatta Rd, Glebe.
www.tropfest.com
Map 3 A5. Tel 9351 2222. Theatre Royal IMAX Theatre
MLC Centre, King St. Southern Promenade,
Griffin Theatre COMEDY
Map 1 B5. Tel 9224 8444. Darling Harbour. Map 4
10 Nimrod St, Kings Cross.
Map 5 B1. Tel 9361 3817. D3. Tel 9281 3300. Comedy Store
The Wharf
www.imax.com.au Entertainment Quarter,
Parade Theatre Pier 4, Hickson Rd,
Walsh Bay. Map 1 A1. Newtown Driver Ave, Moore Park.
215 Anzac Parade,
Tel 9250 1777. 261–263 King St, Map 5 C5. Tel 9357 1419.
Kensington. Map 5 B4
Newtown. Tel 9550 5699. www.
Tel 9697 7613.
CHILDREN’S comedystore.com.au
Seymour Theatre THEATRE Palace Academy
Centre Twin The Old Manly
Cnr Cleveland St & City Flying Fruit Fly Circus 3a Oxford St, Paddington. Boatshed
Rd, Chippendale. Tel 6021 7044. Map 5 B3. Tel 9361 4453. 40 The Corso, Manly.
Tel 9351 7940. www. www.fruitflycircus.com.au Tel 9977 4443.
Palace Verona
seymourcentre.com.au The Roxbury Hotel
Marian St Theatre 17 Oxford St, Paddington.
Shakespeare by for Young People Map 5 B3. Tel 9360 6099. 182 St Johns Rd, Glebe.
the Sea 2 Marian St, Killara. www.palacecinemas. Tel 9692 0822.
Band Rotunda, Balmoral Tel 9498 3166. com.au www.roxbury.com.au
212 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Opera, Classical Music and Dance

Music buffs cannot possibly visit Sydney without seeing Orchestra. Australia’s first
an opera or hearing the city’s premier orchestra period instrument orchestra,
perform in the Sydney Opera House. And that is just this popular group appears
the start. Since the 1970s, music played in Sydney has regularly in Sydney’s major
considerably broadened its base, opening the door to concert halls.
all manner of influences from Asia, Europe and the CONTEMPORARY MUSIC
Pacific, not to mention local compositions. For the
visitor, there is a wealth of orchestral, choral, chamber The first concert held by
and contemporary music from which to choose. Musica Viva was in 1945, at
the NSW Conservatorium of
OPERA ORCHESTRAL MUSIC Music. Originally specialising
in chamber music, it now also
Australia has produced a Much of Sydney’s orchestral presents string quartets, jazz,
number of world-class opera music and recitals are the piano groups, percussionists,
singers, including Joan work of the famous Sydney soloists and international
Sutherland, and eminent Symphony Orchestra (SSO). avant-garde artists. Concerts
conductors such as Sir Charles Numerous concerts are given, take place at the Opera House
Mackerras, Simone Young and mostly in the Opera House and the City Recital Hall.
Stuart Challender. The first Concert Hall, the City Recital Synergy is one of Australia’s
recorded performance of an Hall and the Sydney Town foremost percussion quartets.
opera in Sydney was in 1834. Hall (see p87). A Tea and The group commissions
For 120 years, most opera Symphony series is held mid- works from all over the world
was performed by visiting year on Friday mornings at and gives its own concert
international companies. the Sydney Opera House. series at the Sydney Opera
In 1956, the Australian The renovated Conserva- House and at Sydney Town
Opera (now called Opera torium of Music (see p106), Hall. It also collaborates with
Australia) was formed. It set in the Royal Botanic dance and theatre groups.
presented four Mozart operas Gardens, provides a Eastside Arts, held, like
in its first year. But it was the wonderful atmosphere and Paddington Markets (see
opening of the Sydney Opera location. It holds a number p126), in the Uniting Church,
House (see pp74–7) in 1973 of concerts, where you can hosts Café Carnivale every
that heralded a new interest enjoy symphony and chamber Friday night, showcasing
in opera. Opera Australia’s orchestras, or jazz big bands. some of the best world
summer season is held from Formed in 1973, the Sydney music, including rembetika,
early January to early March; Youth Orchestra, is praised Indian, African, percussion,
the winter season from June for its talent, enthusiasm and gypsy, salsa and tango music.
to the end of October. Each impressive young soloists. Fourplay is a group of
season usually includes one With a loyal following, it classically-trained musicians
accessible opera in English as stages several performances who play electric string
well as more challenging in major concert venues quartet versions of popular
shows. Every year at the throughout the year. music at various venues.
hugely popular Opera in The Aficionados of Baroque and
Domain (see p49), members classical music should try to CHAMBER MUSIC
of Opera Australia perform catch a performance by the
excerpts from famous operas. Australian Brandenburg Under director Richard
Tognetti, the Australian
Chamber Orchestra has won
FREE CONCERTS
high acclaim for its creativity
Throughout the year, festivals provide free live music (see and interesting choice of
pp48–51). These are mostly held outdoors, to take advantage venues, including museums,
of Sydney’s warm weather. During the Sydney Festival the churches and even wineries.
city’s favourite outdoor concerts take place, including Opera Its main concerts are held at
in the Park, Symphony in the Domain and the Australia Day the Opera House and the City
Concert, all held in The Domain, as well as Latin music in Recital Hall, Angel Place.
the Aquadome at Darling Harbour and events in the The Australia Ensemble is
Sydney Opera House forecourt. the resident chamber music
The Conservatorium of Music holds a weekly series of group at the University of
inexpensive concerts in their Verbrugghen Hall (see p106) New South Wales. It performs
during the university semester, entry is by gold coin ($1 or six times a year at the Sir
$2) donation. Staff and students present classical, modern John Clancy Auditorium and
and jazz music in ensemble, soloist and chamber perfor- also appears for Musica Viva.
mances. Each January the renowned choir of St James’ (see Many choral groups and
p115 and p213) present two orchestral masses to the ensembles like to book St
congregation and entry is free. James’ Church because of its
atmosphere and acoustics.
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S Y D N E Y 213

CHORAL MUSIC DANCE everything from dance, mime

and circus work to Butoh and
Comprised of four choirs: the There is an eclectic variety of performance art are likely to
300-member Festival Chorus, dance on offer in Sydney. appear here.
the 100-member Symphony The Australian Ballet has two Bangarra Dance Theatre
Chorus, the 32-member seven-week Sydney seasons uses traditional Aboriginal
Chamber Singers and the at the Opera House: one in and Torres Strait Islander
25-member Vox, the Sydney March/April, the other in dance and music as its
Philharmonia Choirs are the November/December. The inspiration, infused with
city’s finest. They perform at company’s repertoire spans contemporary elements. It
the Opera House. December traditional through to modern, makes outback interstate
is the focal point of Sydney’s although it is perhaps most and international tours, but
choral scene, with regular noted for classical ballets such is based in Sydney.
massed choir performances as Swan Lake and Giselle. The startling and original
of Handel’s Messiah. Sydney Dance Company is Legs on the Wall are a
The Australian Youth Choir the city’s leading modern physical theatre group who
is booked for many private dance group, often combining work all over the world,
functions, but if lucky, you its vigorous productions with combining circus and aerial
may catch one of their major innovative musical scores. techniques with dance and
annual performances. The company has performed narrative to form a heady
One of Sydney’s most in Italy, New York, London mix. Their spectacular
impressive vocal groups is the and China. Productions are performances take place in
Café of the Gate of Salvation, mostly staged at the Sydney intimate theatres or use
described as an “Aussie blend Opera House, but are, on dramatic settings such as
of a capella and gospel.” occasion, held at The Wharf skyscrapers from which the
The choir of St James’ Church or the new Sydney Theatre performers are suspended.
is an excellent choral group. (see pp210–11). Rafaela The smaller experimental
The orchestral masses Bonachela was appointed companies rely on year-to-
performed in January, such as artistic director in 2009. year funding or community-
those by Mozart, Haydn and The Performance Space, based work. These include
Schubert, usually fill the church which is now located at Reel Dance, established
to capacity so arrive early. the CarriageWorks, is very in 2008 after eight years
Former choir members who popular for its experimental as a side project of the
are now professional soloists dance and movement theatre. now defunct One Extra
also occasionally perform. Artists with backgrounds in Dance Company.

DIRECTORY
OPERA Fourplay Sydney CONCERT AND
www.fourplay.com.au Philharmonia Choirs DANCE VENUES
Opera Australia
Tel 9251 2024.
Tel 9318 8200. www. Musica Viva
opera-australia.org.au www.sydneyphilharmonia City Recital Hall
www.mva.org.au
.com.au Angel Place. Map 1 B4.
ORCHESTRAL Synergy Tel 8256 2222.
MUSIC www.synergypercussion DANCE COMPANIES
www.cityrecitalhall.com
Australian .com
Australian Ballet
Brandenburg Performance Space
Tel 9252 5500.
Orchestra CHAMBER MUSIC 245 Wilson St, Everleigh.
www.australianballet.
Tel 9328 7581. www.
Australian Chamber com.au Tel 8571 9111. www.
brandenburg.com.au
Orchestra performancespace.com.au
Sydney Symphony Bangarra Dance
www.aco.com.au
Orchestra Theatre St James’ Church
Tel 8215 4600. www. Australia Ensemble Tel 9251 5333. 173 King St.
sydneysymphony.com Tel 9385 4872. www.bangarra.com.au Map 1 B5. Tel 9232 3022.
Sydney Youth www.ae.unsw.edu.au
Legs on the Wall www.sjks.org.au
Orchestra
Tel 9251 2422. Tel 9560 9479.
CHORAL MUSIC Sydney Opera House
www.syo.com.au www.legsonthewall.
com.au Bennelong Point.
Australian Youth
CONTEMPORARY Map 1 C2. Tel 9250 7111.
Choir Reel Dance
MUSIC www.niypaa.com.au
www.sydneyoperahouse
www.reeldance.org.au
.com
Eastside Arts Café of the Gate of Sydney Dance
395 Oxford St, Paddington. Sydney Town Hall
Salvation Company
Tel 9331 2646.
www.cafeofthegateof www. 483 George Street.
www.paddingtonuca.
org.au/ea salvation.com.au sydneydancecompany.com Map 4 E2. Tel 9265 9333.
214 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S

Music Venues and Nightclubs

Sydney attracts some of the biggest names in modern Soup Plus, on Margaret
music all year round. Venues range from the cavernous Street, is a long-established
Sydney Entertainment Centre to small and noisy back basement hideaway offering
rooms in pubs. Visiting international DJs frequently jazz, blues, latin and swing
while serving reasonably
play sets at Sydney clubs. Some venues cater for a priced food, including soup.
variety of music tastes – rock and pop one night, jazz, Experimental jazz is offered
blues or folk the next. There are several free weekly on Fridays and Saturdays at
gig guides available, including Drum Media, 3-D World the Seymour Theatre Centre
and Brag (see p208), which tell you what is on. (see pp210–11). The
Vanguard, a newer venue,
GETTING IN conventions, which are also offers dinner and show
followed in Sydney bars and deals, as well as show-only
Tickets for major shows are pubs see pages 196–7. tickets, and has been drawing
available through booking an excellent roster of jazz,
agencies such as Ticketek ROCK, POP AND HIP HOP blues and roots talent.
and Ticketmaster (see p208). Annandale’s Empire Hotel is
Prices vary considerably, Pop’s big names and famous Sydney’s official home of the
depending on the shows that rock groups perform at the blues, and the Cat & Fiddle
are going to take place. You Sydney Entertainment Centre, Hotel in Balmain of acoustic
may pay from $30 to $70 for Hordern Pavilion, and sports music and folk.
a gig at the Metro, but over grounds such as the Aussie
$150 for seats for a Rolling Stadium at Sydney Olympic HOUSE, BREAKBEATS
Stones concert. Moshtix also Park (see p138) in Homebush AND TECHNO
sells tickets for smaller Bay. More intimate locations
venues across Sydney and include the State Theatre (see Sydney’s only super club,
their website gives a good pp210–11), Enmore Theatre Home Sydney in Cockle Bay
idea of the various venues and Sydney’s best venue, The features three levels and a
and what is on. Buying Metro Theatre. Hip Hop acts gargantuan sound system.
online also prevents you from usually play in rock venues Friday night is the time to
having to queue early for rather than in nightclubs. You go, as the DJs present house,
tickets from the door. are almost as likely to find trance, drum and bass and
You can also pay at the a crew rapping or a band breakbeats. A mainstream
door on the night at most strumming and drumming at crowd flocks to the nearby
places, unless the show is the Metro Theatre, the Gaelic Bungalow 8 on King Street
sold out. Nightclubs often Club, @Newtown or the Wharf with its fresh seafood
have a cover charge, but Hopetoun Hotel. It is not dishes and great views of
some venues will admit you unusual to catch a punk, the Harbour. Once the sun
free before a certain time in garage or electro-folk band at has set, house DJs turn the
the evening or on weeknights. Spectrum or the Annandale place into a club. At the
Most venues serve alcohol, Hotel on Parramatta Road. swank Tank on Bridge Lane,
so shows are restricted to Pub rock is a constantly the emphasis is on pure
those at least 18 years of age. changing scene in Sydney. house music and the decor
This is the usual case unless Weekly listings appear on is a throwback to Studio 54
a gig is specified “all ages”. Fridays in the “Metro” section in New York. 36° Bar, at Star
It is advisable that people of the Sydney Morning City, is another mainstream
under 30 years old carry Herald and in the street press house club.
photo identification, such as a (see p208). Music stores are For something a little more
passport or driver’s licence, also full of flyers and gigs by hip, try Candy’s Apartment
because entry to some venues international acts and popular on Bayswater Road, or the
is very strict. You are also not Australian bands, on every fashionable tech-electro Mars
allowed to carry any kind of week at the Metro Theatre and Lounge on Wentworth Avenue,
bottle into most nightclubs or Gaelic Club, usually sell out. with its red lacquered interior
other venues. Similarly, any and plenty of seating, where
cameras and recording JAZZ, FOLK AND BLUES you can also enjoy a drink
devices are usually banned. from their extensive list of
Dress codes vary, but gen- For many years, the first port cocktails as well as restaurant
erally, shorts (on men) and of call for any jazz, funk, quality food. Down the road,
flip flops are not welcome. groove or folk enthusiast has Q Bar on Oxford Street,
Wear thin layers which you been The Basement. Visiting Darlinghurst, has arcade
can remove when you get luminaries play some nights, games for when you need a
hot instead of a coat, and talented but struggling local breather. Or try the low-
avoid carrying a big bag, musicians others, and the ceilinged Chinese Laundry
because many venues do not line-ups now also includes on Sussex Street tucked under
have a cloakroom. For more increasingly popular world the gentrified pub, Slip Inn
information on rules and music and hip hop bands. (see p186).
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S Y D N E Y 215

GAY AND LESBIAN PUBS ARQ on Flinders Street is the The Colombian is the best
AND CLUBS largest of the gay clubs, with and one of the most popular
pounding commercial house of the Oxford Street bars, with
Sunday night is the big night music. The main dance floor a mock-Central American
for many of Sydney’s gay is overlooked by a mezzanine jungle decor self-styled as
community, although there is for watching the writhing “South American chic” and
plenty of action throughout mass of bodies below. This is with large windows that
the week. A number of venues a world-class venue with great open out to the street.
have a gay or lesbian night facilities, from the cutting- The Oxford Hotel and its
on one night of the week and edge sound systems to the upper-level cocktail bars
attract a mainstream crowd on state-of-the-art lighting shows. are popular too. Some of
the other nights. Wednesday Midnight Shift on Oxford Sydney’s most entertaining
is lesbian night at the stylish Street is for men only, and drag shows can be found
Bank Hotel in Newtown and Stonewall plays camp in the Cabaret Bar of the
some Sundays are queer anthems and is patronized Imperial Hotel where shows
nights at Home Sydney and mostly by men and their are staged most nights of
Mars Lounge. straight female friends. the week.

DIRECTORY
ROCK, POP AND State Theatre The Vanguard GAY AND LESBIAN
HIP HOP 49 Market St. Map 1 B5. 42 King St, Newtown. CLUBS AND PUBS
Tel 9373 6852. Tel 9557 7992. www.
Annandale Hotel www.statetheatre.com.au ARQ
thevanguard.com.au
17–19 Parramatta Rd, Sydney 16 Flinders St,
Annandale. Entertainment HOUSE, Taylor Square.
Tel 9550 1078. www. Centre BREAKBEATS AND Map 5 A2.
annandalehotel.com Harbour St, Haymarket. TECHNO Tel 9380 8700. www.
Map 4 D4. arqsydney.com.au
Enmore Theatre Bungalow 8
Tel 9320 4200.
130 Enmore Rd, The Promenade, Bank Hotel
Newtown. Sydney Olympic
King St Wharf. 324 King St, Newtown.
Tel 9550 3666. www. Park
Tel 9299 4660. Tel 8568 1988. www.
Homebush Bay.
enmoretheatre.com.au bankhotel.com.au
Tel 9714 7888. Candy’s Apartment
The Gaelic Club www.sydneyolympicpark. 22 Bayswater Rd, Colombian
64 Devonshire St, Surry nsw.gov.au Kings Cross. Map 5 B1. Cnr Oxford and Crown
Hills. Tel 9211 1687. Tel 9380 5600.
JAZZ, FOLK AND Sts, Surry Hills.
www.thegaelic.com Chinese Laundry
BLUES Map 5 A2.
Hopetoun Hotel Slip Inn 111 Sussex St. Tel 9360 2151. www.
The Basement
416 Bourke St, Surry Hills. Map 1 A3. Tel 8295 9950. colombianhotel.com.au
29 Reiby Place.
Tel 9361 5257. Home Sydney
Map 1 B3. Imperial Hotel
Hordern Pavilion Tel 9251 2797. www. Wheat Rd, Cockle Bay, 35 Erskineville Rd,
Driver Ave, Moore Park. thebasement.com.au Darling Harbour. Erskineville.
Map 5 C5. Cat & Fiddle Hotel Map 4 D2. Tel 9519 9899.
Tel 9921 5333. 456 Darling St, Balmain. Tel 9266 0600.
www.homesydney.com Midnight Shift
www.playbillvenues.com Tel 9810 7931.
www.thecatandfiddle.net 85 Oxford St, Darlinghurst.
Mars Lounge
The Metro Theatre Map 5 A2.
624 George St. Map 4 E3.
Empire Hotel 16 Wentworth Avenue,
Tel 9360 4319. www.
Cnr Johnston St & Darlinghurst. Map 4 F4
Tel 9550 3666. www. themidnightshift.com
Paramatta Rd, Annandale. Tel 9267 6440.
metrotheatre.com.au
Tel 9557 1701. Q Bar Oxford Hotel
Moshtix www.empirelive.com.au
Level 2, 44 Oxford St, 134 Oxford St,
Tel 1300 438 849. Seymour Theatre Darlinghurst.
Darlinghurst.
www.moshtix.com.au Centre Map 5 A2.
Map 4 F4.
Cnr Cleveland St & City Tel 9331 3467. www.
@Newtown Tel 9360 1375.
Rd, Chippendale. theoxfordhotel.com.au
52 Enmore Rd, Newtown. Tank
Tel 9351 7940.
Tel 9557 5044. 3 Bridge Lane.
Soup Plus Stonewall
www.atnewtown.com.au Tel 9240 3000.
1 Margaret St (cnr 175 Oxford St,
Spectrum Clarence St). Map 4 E1. 36° Bar Darlinghurst.
34 Oxford St, Tel 9299 7728. Star City, Pirrama Rd, Map 5 A2.
Darlinghurst. Map 4 F4. www.soupplus.citysearch. Pyrmont. Map 3 C1. Tel 9360 1963. www.
www.exchangehotel.biz com.au Tel 9566 4755. stonewallhotel.com
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 218227

TRAVEL INFORMATION 228237
218 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
A lthough Sydney has only
fairly recently become
a major destination for
international tourists, facilities
are now well established
if you take advantage of the
numerous composite travelcards
that offer combined bus, ferry
and train travel (see p230).
Bureaux de change and cash
and most services are of a dispensers are conveniently
very high standard. Hotels in located throughout the city and
the city are generally expensive, major credit cards are accepted
but clean, comfortable cheaper by most hotels, restaurants and
accommodation is available Lifesavers at Coogee shops. Visitors will find Sydney
Surf Carnival
(see pp168–77). There are cafés a safe, clean and welcoming
and restaurants in all price brackets that city. They should encounter few
offer a wide range of international practical problems as long as they
cuisines (see pp178–97). Public transport follow a few common-sense guidelines
is reliable and inexpensive, especially about personal security (see pp222–3).

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES TOURISM AUSTRALIA

OFFICES
Most of Sydney’s major
museums and galleries are UK
close to the city centre and Gemini House, 10–18 Putney Hill
readily accessible by public Rd, London SW15 6AA.
transport (see pp230–35). Tel 020 8780 2229.
Although opening hours Fax 020 8780 1496.
and admission charges vary,
the majority of museums and USA and Canada
galleries are open 10am–5pm 2049 Century Park East,
daily (smaller galleries are Suite 1920,
usually closed on Mondays). Los Angeles, CA 90067.
Admission is quite often free Tel 1310 229 4870.
or else only a moderate fee is Fax 1310 552 1215.
charged. There are concessions
Visitor information kiosk inside available for senior citizens,
TOURIST INFORMATION
Central Railway Station students and children.
Museums and galleries are NSW Visitor Information
TOURIST INFORMATION often at their busiest on week- Line
ends, particularly when special
City Centre
Sydney’s principal tourist exhibitions are being staged.
Tel 132 077.
information for tours and
travel is the NSW Visitor Kingsford Smith Airport
Information Line. The International Arrivals Hall.
Sydney Visitor Centre can Tel 9667 6050.
book tours as well as
Sydney Visitor Centre
accommodation at certain
Cnr Argyle & Playfairs Sts,
listed hotels. Information
booths can also be found at The Rocks, NSW 2000.
Sydney’s major attractions and Map 1 B2. Tel 9240 8788.
beaches, and at several central # 9:30am–5:30pm daily (may
Sydney locations. These close earlier on public holidays).
booths also have free maps, Art Gallery of New South Wales
brochures and entertainment Darling Harbour
listings (see p208). SMOKING Sydney Visitor Centre
For visitors arriving by air, Next to IMAX Theatre,
there is another branch of the Smoking is forbidden in shops, Darling Harbour. Map 3 D2.
NSW Visitor Information Line department stores, most work- Tel 9240 8788.
at Sydney Airport, open from places, on public transport, # 9:30am–5:30pm daily (may
5am to midnight, or while in theatres, entertainment close earlier on public holidays).
flights are operating. venues, restaurants and pubs
For information and (though smoking is permitted Central Railway
brochures about Sydney and in outside areas) and on most Station
the rest of Australia before city beaches. Always ask Sydney Terminal. Map 4 E5.
you travel, visit a Tourism about smoking policies before # 6am–10pm daily.
Australia office. booking hotels and restaurants.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 219

balloon, seaplane or helicopter. DIRECTORY

As well as being an easy way
to take in the sights, a tour COACH AND
can help you to get a feel for MOTORCYCLE TOURS
your new surroundings.
Newmans Escorted Tours
Perhaps the most economical
and flexible introductions to Tel 1300 300 036.
Sydney’s attractions are the Bikescape Motorcycle
unregimented tours provided Rentals and Tours
by the State Transit Explorer Tel 1300 736 869.
Casual dress at a beachside café Buses (see p231). In addition, www.bikescape.com.au
commuter ferries (see pp234–5)
ETIQUETTE AND TIPPING provide a less costly alternative HARBOUR AND
to all-out commercial harbour
RIVER CRUISES
While Sydney customs are cruises, of which there are
generally casual, there are a numerous. Captain Cook Cruises
few rules to follow. Eating Wharf 6, Circular Quay.
and drinking is frowned at on Map 1 B3. Tel 9206 1111.
public transport, and also
www.captaincook.com.au
when travelling in taxis.
Dress code is generally smart Magistic Cruises
casual, but is more relaxed in Wharf 5, King St or Wharf 6,
summer – although people do Circular Quay.
like to go all out for formal Tel 8296 7222.
occasions. Topless bathing is www.magisticcruises.com.au
accepted on many beaches, but
not at public swimming pools. Matilda Cruises
People do not depend on Pier 26, Darling Harbour.
tips for their livelihood so it is Map 4 D2. Tel 9264 7377.
optional. However, it is the www.matilda.com.au
custom to leave about ten per
cent for good service in cafés Top-sail schooner WALKING TOURS
and restaurants (see p179), to
tip hotel porters (see p169) and STUDENT TRAVELLERS Blue Mountains Guides
to leave any small change for PO Box 145, Katoomba NSW
bartenders and taxi drivers. Student travellers carrying 2780. Tel 4782 6109. www.
the International Student bluemountainsguides.com.au
GUIDED TOURS Identity card are eligible for
AND EXCURSIONS discounts in museums, theatres Maureen Fry Sydney
and cinemas, as well as a 40 Guided Tours
Tours and excursions offer per cent reduction on internal 15 Arcadia Rd, Glebe.
the visitor many different air fares and 15 per cent off Tel 9660 7157.
ways of exploring the city and interstate coach travel.
The Rocks
its surroundings – from bus Overseas visitors who are
tours of the city’s night spots, full-time students in Australia Walking Tours
jaunts on the back of a Harley can purchase an International 23 Playfair St, The Rocks.
Davidson, guided nature or Student Identity card (there’s Map 1 B2. Tel 9247 6678.
history walks, cruises on a a guidebook included) for www.rockswalkingtours.com.au
replica of the Bounty, to $18 from Sydney branches
aerial adventures by hot-air of STA Travel. AIR TOURS

Cloud 9 Balloon Flights

Tel 1300 555 711.
www.cloud9balloonflights.com

Sydney Seaplanes
Tel 1300 732 752.
www.seaplanes.com.au

Sydney Helicopters
Tel 9637 4455.

STUDENT INFORMATION

STA Travel
841 George St, Sydney.
Tel 9212 1255.
www.statravel.com.au
Seaplane moored at Rose Bay, available for scenic flight charter
220 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

DISABLED TRAVELLERS
SYDNEY TIME
Sydney has made much- Sydney is in the Australian Eastern Standard Time zone
needed advances in catering (AEST). Daylight saving in New South Wales starts on the
for the disabled. State Transit last Sunday in October and finishes on the last Sunday in
is phasing in specially March. The Northern Territory, Queensland and Western
designed buses with doors at Australia do not observe daylight saving, so check time
pavement level and ramps that differences when you are there. Hours
allow people in wheelchairs City and Country + or − AEST
to use the bus service. There Adelaide (Australia) −½
is also priority seating for those Brisbane (Australia) same
with a disability and bus hand- Canberra (Australia) same
rails and steps are marked with Darwin (Australia) −½
bright yellow paint to assist Hobart (Australia) same
visually impaired passengers. Melbourne (Australia) same
The Circular Quay railway Perth (Australia) −2
station is completely accessible London (UK) −9
to wheelchair users. Several Los Angeles (USA) −17
other stations have wide Singapore −2
entrance gates and most have Toronto (Canada) −14
ramps installed. The Transport
Infoline (see p230) can give
details on disabled access at IMMIGRATION
each station. AND CUSTOMS
Museums, newer hotels and
some major sights cater to the All visitors to Australia,
less mobile, including those in except New Zealand passport
wheelchairs, as well as people holders, must hold a valid
with other disabilities. You are passport and visa, an onward
strongly advised to phone all ticket and proof they have
sights in advance to check on sufficient funds for their visit.
facilities, allowing the most However, visitors should
effective forward planning. always check requirements Overseas cruise ship in port at
For detailed information on before travelling. Circular Quay passenger terminal
accessible services and venues, The customs allowance per
Access Sydney (see p170) is person over 18 entering fresh or packaged food, fruit,
available from Spinal Cord Australia, is up to the value of vegetables, seeds, live plants
Injuries Australia. A map and A$900, 2.25 litres (about 3.75 and plant products is prohibit-
directory for those with pints) of alcohol and a carton ed. It is also illegal to bring in
limited mobility can be of 250 cigarettes. any items or products made
obtained from the Sydney City Quarantine regulations in from endangered species.
Council One-Stop Shop. Australia are strict because of Because of these restrictions,
the debilitating effect that all personal luggage, including
Sydney City Council introduced pests and diseases hand luggage, is x-rayed
One-Stop Shop would have on agriculture, before you can leave the bag-
Town Hall Hse, Sydney Square, 456 and the country’s unique flora gage reclaim area. The
Kent St. Map 4 E3. Tel 9265 3333. and fauna. The importation of penalties for importing illegal
drugs of any sort are severe.
On all international flights
to Sydney, the customs dec-
laration forms issued on the
plane must be filled out and
given to customs officers as
you enter the country. The
practice of spraying the cabin
with insecticide before land-
ing has been discontinued.

DEPARTURE TAX

As in many other countries,

Australia has a departure tax.
All passengers aged 12 or
over are required to pay a
departure tax when leaving
the country. This tax is usually
included in the cost of your
Entrance gates with wheelchair access at Circular Quay railway station airline ticket.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 221

MEDIA DIRECTORY
Sydney’s chief daily morning EMBASSIES AND
newspaper is the Sydney CONSULATES
Morning Herald. It includes a
comprehensive listing of local Canada
entertainment on Fridays and Level 5, 111 Harrington St.
Saturdays. The other Sydney Map 1 B3. Tel 9364 3050.
daily is the Daily Telegraph.
The Australian is a daily New Zealand
national paper with the most Level 10, 55 Hunter St,
comprehensive coverage of Map 1 B4. Tel 8256 2000.
overseas news, and the
Australian Financial Review Republic of Ireland
largely reports on interna- Level 26, 1 Market St. Map 4 E2.
tional monetary matters. Time Tel 9264 9635.
magazine is Australia’s Drinking fountain in the city
United Kingdom
leading international news
magazine. Most of the major are also quite common, partic- Level 16, The Gateway,
foreign newspapers and ularly in department stores and 1 Macquarie Place. Map 1 B3.
magazines are widely major museums and galleries. Tel 9247 7521.
available at many newsstands. Clean drinking fountains can
USA
Sydney is well served with be found throughout the city.
AM and FM radio stations. The Spring, or distilled, water is MLC Centre, 19–29 Martin Place.
state-run ABC (Australian also often freely available from Map 1 B4. Tel 9373 9200.
Broadcasting Corporation) dispensers in waiting areas of
stations cater for various tastes chemist shops, travel agents RELIGIOUS SERVICES
from rock to classical, as well and offices.
as providing a range of Anglican
services, including news, rural St Andrew’s Cathedral,
information for farmers, arts Sydney Square, George St.
commentary and magazine- Map 4 E3. Tel 9265 1661.
style programmes. There are
also community radio stations Baptist
that cater to local cultural and Central Baptist Church,
social interests. Details of Standard Australian three-pin plug 619 George St. Map 4 E4.
current programming are Tel 9211 1833.
available in local newspapers. ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES
Sydney has two state-run Catholic
television stations. The ABC’s Australia’s electrical current St Mary’s Cathedral, Cathedral St.
Channel 2 provides news and is 240–250 volts AC. Electrical Map 1 C5. Tel 9220 0400.
current affairs coverage, plugs can have either two or
children’s programmes and three pins. Most good hotels Interdenominational
high quality local and will provide 110-volt shaver Wayside Chapel of the Cross,
international drama. The sockets and hair dryers, but a 29 Hughes St, Potts Point.
multicultural Special flat, two- or three-pin adaptor Map 2 E5. Tel 9358 6577.
Broadcasting Service (SBS) will be necessary for other
caters to Australia’s many appliances. These can be Islamic
cultures with foreign bought from electrical stores. King Faisal Mosque,
language programmes. In 175 Commonwealth St.
addition, there are three CONVERSION TABLE Map 4 F4. Tel 9281 0440.
commercial television
stations, Channels 7, 9 and Imperial to Metric Jewish Orthodox
10, offering a variety of 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres The Great Synagogue,
entertainment from sport and 1 foot = 30 centimetres 187 Elizabeth St. Map 1 B5.
news to soap operas. Many 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres Tel 9267 2477.
more stations are available on 1 ounce = 28 grams
the cable network, Foxtel. 1 pound = 454 grams Presbyterian
1 pint = 0.6 litres St Peters Presbyterian Church,
PUBLIC TOILETS 1 gallon = 4.6 litres Cnr Blues Point Rd & Blue St,
North Sydney.
Free public toilets are to be Metric to Imperial Tel 9955 1662.
found in Sydney’s public 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
places, galleries and museums, 1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches Uniting
department stores and all bus 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles St Stephen’s Church,
and railway stations. They are 1 gram = 0.04 ounces 197 Macquarie St. Map 1 C4.
generally well serviced and 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds Tel 9221 1688.
clean. Baby changing facilities 1 litre = 1.8 pints
222 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Personal Security and Health

Street crime in Sydney is less prevalent than in many
other large cities, but it does exist. You can minimize
your risk of becoming a victim of crime by exercising
reasonable caution. Members of Sydney’s police patrol Police vehicle

the city’s streets and public transport system in pairs.

Mobile police stations, set up at crowded tourist areas
and at public events, have proved particularly successful
and are popular with the public. Further afield, the surf
beaches and natural bushland can present a few dangers
of their own, and the following information offers some Fire engine
practical advice for coping with environmental hazards.

LOOKING AFTER YOUR clasp fastened. If you have a

PROPERTY car, always try to park in well-
lit, reasonably busy streets.
Leave valuables and important Remember to lock the vehicle Intensive care ambulance
documents in your hotel safe, securely. It is also important
and don’t carry large sums of not to leave any valuables or marked “Nightsafe” area of
cash with you. Traveller’s property visible inside the car the platform. Although more
cheques are generally regarded that might attract a thief. expensive, taxis are probably
as the safest way to carry large the safest, most efficient means
sums of money. It is also worth PERSONAL SAFETY of travel at night, especially
photocopying vital douments for shorter journeys.
in case of loss or theft. Sydney has no definite off-
Be on guard against purse limit areas during the day, but MEDICAL TREATMENT
snatchers and pickpockets in it is probably wise to AND INSURANCE
places where big avoid the more unsavoury
crowds gather. Prime side streets and Sydney has excellent medical
areas for petty theft lanes of areas such services, with highly trained
are popular tourist as Kings Cross. If doctors and modern hospitals.
areas, beaches, you take reason- However, overseas visitors are
markets, sporting able care, you can not covered by Australia’s
venues and on go into most areas “Medicare” government health
public transport. Ambulance paramedic at night, although scheme, and medical, dental
Never carry your visitors are advised and ambulance costs are quite
wallet in an outside pocket to stay clear of deserted, poorly expensive. Before leaving your
where it is an easy target for a lit streets and toilets in parks. own country, be sure to pur-
thief and wear shoulder bags When travelling by train at chase adequate insurance for
and cameras with the strap night, stay close to security any medical, hospital or dental
across your body and the bag points on platforms and use costs you may incur during
or camera in front with the those parts of the train in the your stay. Under a reciprocal
arrangement, British passport
holders are entitled to free
basic emergency medical and
hospital treatment.
If you are in need of urgent
medical attention, dial 000 for
an ambulance or go to the
emergency department of the
nearest main public hospital.
For less urgent treatment, look
under “Medical Centres” in the
Yellow Pages of the Sydney
telephone directory.
The King’s Cross Travellers’
Clinic offers treatment for
travel-related illnesses as well
as vaccinations. For non-
urgent dental treatment, look
under “Dentists” in the Yellow
Pages of the telephone direct-
ory. The Emergency Dental
Service has an after-hours
Policewoman Policeman Fire officer phone line for urgent cases.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 223

PHARMACIES on patrol and swim within the DIRECTORY

“flagged” areas. In their red
Pharmacies are generally and yellow caps, surf lifesavers EMERGENCY SERVICES
known as “chemist shops” in keep an eye out for changing
Sydney and are liberally surf conditions, people in Emergency Dental
scattered throughout the city difficulty and surfers coming Tel 0417 603 322 (after hours,
and suburbs. They sell a wide too close to areas set aside Darling Harbour area). Dental
range of unrestricted drugs for swimmers only. Hospital 2 Chalmers St, Surry
and other medical supplies Lifeguards from Hills. Tel 9293 3200.
over the counter. Pharmacists district councils
Police, Fire and
can be a source of advice on are dressed in blue
simple ailments such as colds (see p54). Look out for signs Ambulance
and stomach upsets. You can on the beach indicating that Tel 000 from any phone. Calls are
ring After-Hours Pharmacy it is dangerous to swim, and free (24-hour phoneline).
information if you need to do not go in under any cir-
find one that is open outside cumstances. Popular beaches GENERAL HELP
normal business hours. have loudspeakers to warn
After-Hours Pharmacy
Doctor’s prescriptions from people of sudden hazards. If
your own country cannot you plan to bushwalk, do Information
be filled by an Australian Lifesaving flag not hike alone. Always Tel 9966 8377.
pharmacist unless they tell someone where HIV/AIDS Information
are first endorsed by a medical you are going and when you Line
practitioner practising locally. will be back. It is wise to take Tel 9332 9700.
a map and a basic first-aid kit,
as well as food and fresh water, Alcoholics Anonymous
and warm, waterproof clothing. Tel 9488 9820.
When walking through the
bush, be aware that you are King’s Cross Travellers’
passing through the habitat of Clinic
native animals, including some Suite 1, 13 Springfield Ave,
poisonous snakes and spiders. Potts Point. Map 2 E5.
It is very unlikely that you will Tel 9358 3376.
encounter any, but you should
Lost Property
Chemist shop in The Rocks wear substantial footwear, keep
a close eye on where you step State Rail and CityRail trains
ENVIRONMENTAL and check around logs and Tel 9379 3341.
HAZARDS rocks before sitting on them. Sydney Buses
Snake bite victims should be Tel 131 500.
Take care when going out in kept calm and, most important, Sydney Ferries
the sun – the ultraviolet rays remain still while emergency Tel 9207 3101.
are very intense, even on medical help is sought. Try to
cloudy days. You should wear identify the snake by size and NRMA (National
SPF 30+ sun block at all times. colour so that the correct anti- Roads and Motorists
A hat and sunglasses are also venom can be administered. Association)
recommended, as is staying The funnel-web (see p89) Tel 131 122.
out of the sun between 10am and the redback spider are
and 2pm (11am and 3pm dur- both poisonous species found Poisons Information
ing daylight saving). When in the Sydney region. Anyone Centre
swimming at an ocean beach, bitten by either of these should Tel 131 126.
check that there are lifesavers seek urgent medical attention. Translating and
Interpreting Service
Tel 131 450.

Victims’ Support Line

Tel 8688 5400, 1800 633 063.

HOSPITAL EMERGENCY
DEPARTMENTS
St Vincent’s Hospital
Victoria St (cnr Burton St),
Darlinghurst. Map 5 B2.
Tel 8382 1111.

Sydney Hospital
Macquarie St (near Martin Place).
Map 1 C4. Tel 9382 7111.
Surf lifesaving sign indicating a dangerous undertow or “rip”
224 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Banking and Local Currency

Sydney is Australia’s financial capital. In the central in smaller outlets. Foreign cur-
business district are the imposing headquarters of rency cheques can be cashed
several of the country’s leading banks, as well as the at banks, bureaux de change
Australian head offices of major foreign banks. Visitors and established hotels.
will find local, state and national bank branches dotted Banks are generally the best
places to go as their fees are
at convenient intervals throughout the city and suburbs. lower. Some banks will cash
There is no limit to the amount of personal funds that traveller’s cheques in Australian
visitors can bring into Australia. Most currencies can be dollars without charge. Other
exchanged on arrival at the airport (beyond immigration banks have varying transaction
and customs). Although banks generally offer the best charges, so shop around.
exchange rates, money can also be changed at bureaux
de change, larger department stores and major hotels. BUREAUX DE CHANGE

Sydney has many bureaux

or credit account. Most cash de change in the popular
dispensers will accept various shopping districts. Most are
Australian bank cards, Visa and open Monday to Saturday from
MasterCard (Access), as well 9am to 5:30pm. It can be hard
as certain others. They are not to change money on Sundays.
only convenient, but may also While their extended hours
provide a better exchange rate can make bureaux de change
than cash transactions. a convenient alternative to a
bank, their commissions and
CREDIT CARDS fees are generally higher than
those charged by major banks.
All well-known international
High street bank logos credit cards are widely DIRECTORY
accepted in Australia. Major
BANKING credit cards such as American FOREIGN CURRENCY
Express, MasterCard (Access), EXCHANGE
Bank trading hours are Visa and Diners Club can be
generally from 9:30am to 4pm used to book and pay for hotel American Express
Monday to Thursday, and rooms, airline tickets, car hire,
60 Martin Place. Map 1 B4.
9:30am to 5pm on tours and concert
Fridays. Some are and theatre tickets. 50 Pitt St. Map 1 B3.
also open to mid- Credit cards are 275 George St. Map 1 B4.
day on Saturdays. accepted in most 341 George St. Map 1 B4.
Major city banks restaurants and
296 George St. Map 1 B3.
open 8:30am to shops, where the
5pm on weekdays. logos of all recog- 673 George St. Map 1 B3.
A valid passport nized cards are Tel 1300 139 060.
or another form of usually shown on
photographic ID is doors and counter BUREAUX DE CHANGE
usually needed if Automatic cash dispenser tops. You can also
you are cashing use credit cards in Travelex
traveller’s cheques. The current automatic cash dispensers at
28 Bridge St. Map 1 B3.
exchange rates, which can vary most banks to withdraw cash.
considerably from day to day, Credit cards are a convenient 570 George St. Map 1 B5.
are displayed in the windows way to make phone bookings
Citibank
or foyers of many banks. and avoid the need to carry
large sums of cash. They can 2 Park St. Map 4 E2.
AUTOMATIC be especially useful in emer- 55–57 Pitt St. Map 1 B3.
CASH DISPENSERS gencies or if you need to fly 695 George St. Map 4 E4.
home at short notice.
Automatic cash dispensers Tel 1800 637 642.
can be found in most bank CASHING TRAVELLER’S Interforex
lobbies or on an external wall CHEQUES
near the bank’s entrance. Ask Jetty 6, Circular Quay.
your own bank which Sydney Australian dollar traveller’s Shop 2, Opera Quays.
banks and cash dispensers will cheques issued by major First Fleet Park, Circular Quay.
accept your card and what the names like Travelex and 75 George St, The Rocks.
transaction charges will be. American Express are usually
Australian currency (in $20 accepted (with a passport) in Map 1 B2–B3. Tel 9247 5555.
and $50 denominations) can larger shops in Sydney. You # 8am–8:30pm daily.
be withdrawn from your bank may have problems, however,
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 225

LOCAL CURRENCY no longer being circulated, the tell the taxi driver before you
total amount to be paid will start your journey to avoid any
The Australian currency is be rounded up or down to misunderstandings. Otherwise,
the Australian dollar ($ or the nearest five cent amount. when you arrive at your desti-
A$), which breaks down into It can be difficult to get $50 nation, you may have to find
100 cents (c). The decimal cur- and $100 notes changed, so change at the nearest shop or
rency system now in place has avoid using them in smaller automatic cash dispenser.
been in operation since 1966. shops and cafés and, more To improve security, as well
Single cents may still be used particularly, when paying for as increase their circulation
for some prices, but as the taxi fares. If you do not have life, all Australian bank notes
Australian 1c and 2c coins are change, it is always wise to have now been plasticized.

Bank Notes
Australian bank notes are
produced in denominations of
$5, $10, $20, $50 and $100.
There are two types of bank
note in circulation: the older
paper notes (rarely seen but
still legal tender), and plasti-
cized notes in similar colours.

$100 note

$50 note

$20 note

$10 note

$5 note

5 cents (5c) 10 cents (10c)

20 cents (20c) 50 cents (50c)

Coins
Coins currently in use are 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c,
$1 and $2 (shown here at actual sizes). There
are several 20c, 50c and $1 coins in circulation;
all are the same shape, but have different
commemorative images. The 10c and 20c coins
1 dollar ($1) 2 dollars ($2) are useful for local telephone calls (see p226).
226 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Using Sydney’s Telephones by phoning during off-peak

periods. In general, peak and
Sydney’s public payphones are generally maintained in discount calling times fall into
good working order. Their prevalence on streets three ascending price brackets:
throughout the city and suburbs – as well as in hotels, economy, 6pm Sat–8am Mon,
cafés, shops and public buildings – means that users or 10pm–8am daily; night rate,
seldom have to queue to make calls. To save money, 6pm–10pm Mon–Fri; day rate,
8am–6pm Mon–Sat. Special
avoid making calls from hotel rooms. Hotels set their own rates and times may apply to
rates and a call from your room will invariably cost more calls to certain countries.
than one made from a payphone in the hotel lobby.
MOBILE PHONES
PAYPHONE CHARGES
Mobile telephones are used
Telstra Corporation logo
Local calls (those with the extensively in Australia. You
02 area code) are untimed can rent one from Vodafone
PUBLIC TELEPHONES and cost 40 cents. Charges for at the airport international
long-distance calls can be arrivals hall. Rates cost $4–10
Most payphones accept both obtained at no cost by calling a day (calls are extra), and
coins and phonecards, 012 (for within Australia) and you’ll need a credit card and
although some operate solely 0102 (for international). Phone- your passport. Other rental
on phonecards and card and credit card companies are listed in the
major credit cards. phones debit 40-cent Yellow Pages telephone
Phonecards can be units in the same way directory under “Mobile Tele-
bought from selected as other telephones; phones”. Ask your service
newsagents and however, all credit provider about whether your
news kiosks display- card calls have a $1.20 own digital mobile phone
ing Telstra sign. All minimum fee, making will work in Australia.
public telephones have them uneconomical for
a hand receiver and 12- local calls. Long-distance INTERNET ACCESS
button key pad, though they calls are less expensive if
may vary in shape you dial without the Internet cafés provide rela-
and colour, as well as Telstra payphones help of an operator. tively cheap Internet access
instructions (in English Most international and are widely spread through-
only) and a list of useful calls can be dialled direct and out the city. Wireless local
phone numbers. The Telstra there is little need for operator area network (Wi-Fi), which
Phone Centre is open 24 assistance unless you wish to allows you to connect to the
hours and Global Gossip is make a reverse-charge call. Internet using your own laptop
open until midnight, but you Savings can be made on both in a “hotspot”, is becoming
can also send a fax from there. national and international calls increasingly common in
Sydney. Many hotels provide
USING A COIN/PHONECARD OPERATED PHONE a Wi-Fi service but may charge
a premium for it. Lists of free
1 Lift the receiver and
wait for the dialling
tone.
6 When you finish
your call, the
phonecard is returned
Wi-Fi hotspots are available
at www.freewifi.com.au.
to you with a hole
punched in it show- FAX SERVICES
2 Insert the coins
required or insert a
Telstra phonecard in
ing the approximate
remaining value. Most Sydney post offices
the direction of the offer a fax service. There are
arrows shown on the
also many copy shops that
card.
4 The display shows
you how much
value is left on your
will send or receive faxes on
your behalf. Look under the
3 Dial the number
and wait to be
connected.
phonecard or coins.
When your coins or
heading “Facsimile &/or Telex
phonecard run out Communication Services” in
you will hear a the Yellow Pages phone direc-
5 Replace the receiver
at the end of the
call and withdraw your
warning beep. To
continue, insert more
tory for an agency near you.
Post offices charge per-page
coins if using coins.
card or collect any
If using a phonecard, fees to send a fax to another
unused coins. fax machine within Australia.
remove the old card
Payphones do not
give change.
and insert a new one. The cost per page is reduced
after the first page. A fax can
be sent to a postal address for
Phonecards the same charge, in which case
Telstra phonecards the fax is sent to the local post
are available in $2, office and delivered with the
$5, $10, $20 and mail, usually the following day.
$50 denominations. A same-day fax to a postal
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 227

address must be dispatched by Postal Services

1pm, and there is a delivery
fee. Delivery within 2 hours is Post offices are open 9am–5pm week days.
available for a higher charge. Almost all post offices offer a wide range of
Overseas faxes can also be services, including poste restante, fax, money
faxed to another fax machine orders, electronic post, express delivery,
or sent to a postal address. The
Australia parcel post and telegrams, as well as stamps,
cost is on a per-page rate, as Post logo envelopes, packaging, stationery and post-
with faxes to local numbers.
cards. Stamps can also be bought from hotels and shops
USEFUL INFORMATION where postcards are sold, and from some newsagents.

Telstra Phone Centre

There are two types of inter-
231 Elizabeth St. Map 4 F3.
national express mail. EMS
International Courier is the
Global Gossip fastest service and will reach
790 George St. Map 4 E5. nearly all overseas destinations
within two to three days.
REACHING THE RIGHT Alternatively, Express Post
International will reach most
NUMBER destinations throughout the
s4ORING3YDNEYFROMTHE world in four to five days.
UK, dial 0061 2, then the
local number.
s4ORING3YDNEYFROMTHE
USA and Canada, dial
011 61 2, then the local
number.
s&ORLONG DISTANCEDIRECT
dial calls outside your Australia Post postman
local area code, but
within Australia (STD POSTAL SERVICES
calls), dial the
appropriate area code, All domestic mail is first class
then the number. and usually arrives within one
s&ORINTERNATIONALDIRECT to five days, depending on Standard and express postboxes
dial calls (IDD calls): dial distance. Be sure to include
0011, followed by the postcodes on mailing addresses POSTBOXES
country code (USA and to avoid delays in delivery.
Canada: 1; UK: 44; New Express Post, for which you Sydney has both red and
Zealand: 64), then the need to buy one of the special yellow postboxes. The red
city or area code (omit yellow and white envelopes boxes are for normal postal
initial 0) and then the sold in post offices, guarantees service; yellow boxes are for
local number. next-day delivery in designated Express Post within Australia.
s)NTERNATIONALDIRECTORY areas of Australia. International
enquiries: dial 1225. air mail takes from five to ten POSTE RESTANTE
s,OCALDIRECTORYENQUIRIES days to reach most countries.
dial 1223. Address poste restante letters
s#ALL#ONNECTDIAL12455 to Poste Restante, GPO
(charges apply). Sydney, NSW 2000, but
s)NTERNATIONALOPERATOR collect them from 310 George
assistance: dial 1225. St, Hunter Connection, oppo-
s2EVERSECHARGECALLSWITHIN Labels used for overseas mail site Wynyard Station. You will
Australia: dial 12550. need to show your passport
s)NTERNATIONALREVERSE or other proof of identity. The
charge calls: dial 12550 GPO is purely a retail shop
or 1800 801 800 to access and mail centre.
operator in home country.
s.UMBERSBEGINNINGWITH Typical stamps used for local mail USEFUL INFORMATION
1800 are toll-free numbers.
s.UMBERSWITHTHEPREFIX General Post Office (GPO)
0414, 0415, 0418, 0421, etc 1 Martin Place. Map 4 E1.
are mobile or car phones. Tel 131 318 (enquiries). # 8:30am–
sSee also Emergency 5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat.
Numbers, p223. Poste Restante 310 George St, Level
2a Hunter Connection Building.
# 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri.
Stamp from a scenic series issue Tel 9244 3732.
228 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

TRAVEL INFORMATION
T ravelling to Sydney can
involve a long and tiring
flight. Visitors from
Europe can take advantage of
stopovers in Asia; those from
by efficient air, rail and coach
connections. Long-distance
coach travel is comfortable
and relatively inexpensive;
interstate trains are more
the United States could break expensive, but they are
their journey in Hawaii or one generally a great deal faster.
of the other Pacific Islands. A Countrylink and Indian People travelling by coach
Pacific train logos
break can mean the difference should consider taking one
between arriving in Sydney jet-lagged of the scenic routes with stopovers
or stepping off the plane refreshed and offered by some coach companies. Car
ready to take in the sights. Sydney is travellers can also plan their journey to
linked to Australia’s other state capitals Sydney to pass through scenic areas.

ARRIVING BY AIR for discounts on internal flights.

You can book cheap domestic
International flights to Sydney and international flights at
can be expensive. They are Sydney airport’s website.
also often heavily booked,
especially from December to ARRIVING AT
February. December is peak SYDNEY AIRPORT
season, and therefore the most
expensive time to fly. Shoulder The main gateway to Australia
season, from 1 January to 12 is Sydney (Kingsford Smith)
April, is slightly less costly. Airport. As a result of this,
APEX fares are often the congestion, especially at peak Queueing for taxis at the Sydney
cheapest. Some stipulate set periods, can sometimes cause Airport domestic terminal
arrival and departure dates, or irritating delays. There is a
carry penalties if you cancel duty-free shop for arriving GETTING INTO THE CITY
your flight. Round-the-world passengers on the incoming
fares can be good value and side of the baggage collection Sydney airport is about 9 km
are increasingly popular. and customs area. Just (5½ miles) from the CBD, 10
Qantas Airways Virgin beyond this is Tourism NSW’s minutes on the rail link or a
Blue and Jetstar, Australia’s information kiosk (see p218), 30-minute express bus
international and major where you can book accom- journey. Catch a bus or taxi
domestic carriers, link Sydney modation. The terminal also outside the terminals, or
with other cities and major has a range of other services CityRail from underground
tourist destinations. Other including shops, a bureau de stations at both terminals.
domestic airlines service change, internet facilities, State Transit has three
shorter routes. Flights within ATMs and car hire desks. routes serving the airport:
Australia can be expensive Flight arrivals and departures Metro route 400 from
but great prices can be found are displayed on TV monitors Burwood to Bondi Junction
by booking in advance and and the whereabouts of toilets via the airport.
online (although restrictions and other airport facilities are KST Sydney Airporter leaves
apply). Overseas visitors with indicated using internationally for Darling Harbour, the city
international tickets are eligible recognized symbols. and Kings Cross every 20-30
minutes from 5am until the last
flight. It will drop you off
anywhere in these areas, but
only picks up from accom-
modation. You should ring to
book a seat 24 hours before
you want to depart.

ARRIVING BY SEA

Undoubtedly, the most

delightful way to arrive in
Sydney is by ship. Passenger
ships berth at the overseas
passenger terminals at
Circular Quay and Darling
International flight arriving at Sydney Airport Harbour. At either terminal,
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 229

ARRIVING BY TRAIN

All interstate and regional

trains arrive at Central
Railway Station. Australia’s
nationwide rail network is
known by a different name in
each state, but it still operates
cohesively. The Countrylink
reservations line will answer
queries and take bookings
(6:30am–10pm daily) for train
services throughout Australia.
CityRail also has slower, but
cheaper, services from nearby
centres on which seats cannot
A passenger ship berthed at Circular Quay be booked. The Bus, Train &
Ferry Infoline (see p230) has
you will find the city on the ARRIVING BY CAR information about CityRail’s
doorstep. Information booths, country services.
tour booking centres, buses, The four major routes into
trains, ferries, taxis and water Sydney are the Pacific
taxis are all close at hand. Highway from the north; the
Great Western Highway from
ARRIVING BY COACH the west; the Princes Highway,
which follows the coast from
Most long-distance bus or Melbourne; and the Hume
coach services arrive at the Highway, which runs inland
Sydney Coach Terminal at from Melbourne.
Central Railway Station. The As they approach Sydney,
terminal has left-luggage these routes feed into freeways
facilities but do not store or motorways, which in turn
anything overnight. Food lead to priority routes known
outlets are found in the as “Metroads” (marked by blue
station above. and white hexagonal badges).
Competition between the When you reach the city out-
coach companies is fierce, so skirts, look for the Metroad
it is worth shopping around signs and stay in the lanes as Country service passenger train
to get the best price. marked for the city centre. waiting at Central Railway Station

DIRECTORY
SYDNEY AIRPORT Japan Airlines AIRPORT HOTELS TRAIN
Reservations and flight INFORMATION
Airport Information Mercure Sydney
Tel 9667 9111. www. information Airport Central Railway
sydneyairport.com.au Tel 9272 1100. Tel 9518 2000. Station
General inquiries
AIRLINE Qantas Airways Stamford Plaza
Tel 131 500.
INFORMATION Reservations Sydney Airport
Lost property
Tel 131 313. Tel 9317 2200.
Air New Zealand Tel 9379 3341.
Arrivals and departures
Reservations Tel 132 476. LONG-DISTANCE Countrylink
Tel 131 223.
Arrivals and departures COACH SERVICES Reservations Tel 132 232.
Tel 1800 147 332. Singapore Airlines Arrivals Tel 132 232.
Reservations Tel 131 011.
Sydney Coach
Air Canada
Terminal AIRPORT BUS
Reservations Arrivals Tel 1300 654 475.
Cnr of Eddy Ave & Pitt St.
Tel 1300 655 767.
Thai Airways Map 4 E5. Tel 9281 9366. KST Sydney
British Airways Reservations Airporter
Reservations McCafferty’s
Tel 1300 051 960. Tel 9666 9813.
Tel 1300 767 177. Greyhound
www.kst.com.au
United Airlines Tel 9212 1500.
Emirates
Reservations, arrivals Reservations, arrivals Premier Motor
and departures and departures Service
Tel 1300 303 777. Tel 131 777. Tel 133 410.
230 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Getting Around Sydney They are sold in “bus only” or

“bus–ferry” and “bus–ferry–
In general, the best way to see Sydney’s train” combinations. The Red
many sights and attractions is on foot, TravelPass, a combined bus–
coupled with use of the public transport ferry–train ticket, covers all
system. Buses, trains and the new light zones included in the usual
railway will take visitors to within easy tourist jaunts. The slightly more
expensive Green TravelPass
walking distance of anywhere in the inner allows for bus, train and ferry
city. They also serve the suburbs and travel over a wider area.
SydneyPass outlying areas. Passenger ferries provide a
ticket fast and scenic means of travel between SydneyPass
the city and harbourside suburbs. The best selection of The SydneyPass allows either
maps, plus fascinating aerial and satellite views and three or five days’ use in any
historical maps, can be found at Map World. eight-day period, or seven
consecutive days of unlimited
bus and ferry travel, including
sold here” sign is on display. trips on the Manly Jetcat, three
For some visitors, TravelTen Sydney Harbour cruises (see
or FerryTen (see p234) tickets, p235), the Sydney Explorer
which can be used on buses and the Bondi Explorer buses
and ferries respectively, may and the Airport Express
prove useful. services (see p228).
You can buy a SydneyPass
TRAVELTEN TICKETS direct from the driver on any
Airport Express or Explorer
Travelten tickets entitle you bus, travel agents where you
to make ten journeys on State see the SydneyPass sign on
Transit buses. Bus routes are display, Circular Quay ferry
divided into parts, or “sec- wharf and State Transit Infor-
tions”. Tickets are colour-coded mation and Ticket Kiosks.
according to the number of
sections for which they can be All-Day Tickets
used on each journey. If you have only one day for
These tickets are useful if sighseeing, a Daytripper ticket
People crossing at pedestrian you need to travel the same may be useful. Travel on a
lights in the centre of the city route a number of times. Most Daytripper includes unlimited
visitors use a Blue TravelTen, rides on all blue and white
WALKING valid for 1–2 sections, a Brown STA buses, CityRail suburban
TravelTen valid for 3–5 sections area trains and all STA Sydney
Take care when walking or a Red TravelTen, valid for Ferries. It is not valid on
around the city. Vehicles are 6–9 sections. tourism services.
driven on the left and often TravelTen tickets can be
move quickly. It is wise to use transferred from one user to USEFUL INFORMATION
pedestrian crossings. There are another and can be shared on
two types. Push-button cross- the same journey. Map World
ings are found at traffic lights. 280 Pitt St. Map 4 E3. Tel 9261
Wait for the green man signal 3601. www.mapworld.com.au
and do not cross at lights if Sydney Buses Transit Shop
the red warning sign is on or Railway Square
flashing. Zebra crossings are Cnr George and Lee Sts.
marked by yellow and black Map 4 D4.
signs. Make sure vehicles are Circular Quay
stopping before you cross. Cnr Loftus and Alfred Sts.
Map 1 B3. Tel 9244 1990
COMPOSITE TICKETS Queen Victoria Building
A Blue Weekly TravelPass, Red York St. Map 1 A5.
Travelling on Sydney’s trains TravelTen and Blue TravelTen Wynyard Park
buses and harbour ferries is Carrington St. Map 1 A4.
not expensive, especially if TRAVELPASSES www.sydneybuses.info
you use one of the composite
tickets or TravelPasses that The most economical of the Bus, Train & Ferry Infoline
are readily available. composite tickets are the Tel 131 500.
These can be bought from TravelPasses. These allow you Sydney Ferries
Sydney Buses Transit Shop, unlimited seven-day travel on Information Office
railway stations, newsagents Sydney’s public buses, trains Opposite Jetty No. 4, Circular Quay.
and newsstands where the and ferries as long as you Map 1 B3. Tel 9207 3166.
yellow and black “bus tickets travel within stipulated zones. www.sydneyferries.org
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 231

Travelling by Bus SIGHTSEEING BY BUS

Sydney buses provides a punctual service that links up Two Sydney bus services, the
conveniently with the city’s rail and ferry systems. As distinctive red Sydney
well as covering city and suburban areas, there are Explorer and the blue Bondi
three regular bus routes that serve the airport (see Explorer, offer flexible
p228) and two excellent sightseeing buses – the sightseeing with informative
commentaries. The Sydney
Sydney Explorer and the Bondi Explorer. The Transport Explorer bus covers a 36-km
Infoline can advise you on routes, fares and journey (20-mile) circuit and stops at
times for all Sydney Buses. Armed with the map on the 26 of the city’s most popular
inside back cover of this book and a composite ticket, sights and attractions. The
you can avoid the difficulties and expense of city parking. Bondi Explorer travels through
a number of Sydney’s eastern
BUS STOPS suburbs, taking in much of
the area’s coastal and harbour
Bus stops are indicated by scenery along the way.
yellow and black signs dis- Sydney Explorer Red buses
playing a profile of a bus and run daily every 20 minutes,
a boarding passenger. Some- the blue every 30 minutes.
times the numbers of the buses The great advantage of these
travelling along the route are services is that you can
listed below this symbol. explore at will, getting on and
Timetables are usually found off the buses as often as you
on the bus stop sign or nearby wish in the course of a day.
shelter. The Sunday The best way to make
timetable also applies the most of your
to public holidays. journey is to choose
Automatic stamping machine for While efforts are the sights you most
validating composite bus tickets made to keep bus want to see and plan
stop timetables as a basic itinerary. Be
USING SYDNEY BUSES up-to-date as sure to note the
possible, it is always opening times of
Route numbers and journey best to carry a Express bus museums, art galleries
destinations are displayed on the current bus timetable and shops; the bus
front, back and left side of all with you. They may be drivers can advise you about
Sydney buses. An “X” in front collected from some tourist these. Explorer bus stops are
of the number means that it is information facilities and are clearly marked by the colours
an express bus. Daytripper and also available at Sydney Buses of the bus (red or blue).
single-journey tickets can be Transit Shops in the city, as Tickets can be bought on
purchased on board most well as at Bondi Junction and the buses or from Sydney
regular buses. Try to have coins the Manly ferry wharf. Buses Transit Shops.
at hand as drivers are not always
able to change large notes. You
will be given a ticket valid for
that journey only – if you change
buses you will have to pay
again. Many buses are now
“pre-pay” where tickets must be
purchased before boarding.
If using a TravelTen ticket or A typical Sydney Bus used for standard services
TravelPass, you must insert it
in the automatic stamping
machine as you board. Ensure
the arrow is facing you and
pointing downwards. If sharing
a TravelTen, insert it into the
machine once for each person.
Front seats must be given up The Bondi Explorer bus
to elderly or disabled people.
Eating, drinking, smoking or
playing music is prohibited on
buses. To signal that you wish
to alight, press one of the stop
buttons – they are mounted
on the vertical handrails on
each seat – well before the bus
reaches your stop. The Sydney Explorer bus
232 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling by Train and Monorail

As well as providing the key transport link 10 to 15 minutes at peak
between the city and suburbs, Sydney’s times, and every 30 minutes
railway network also serves a large part of between midnight and 6am.
CityRail logo the central business district. The City Circle Use CityRail to get to
loop is the main line running through the outlying suburbs and to the
airport. Trains run from
city centre stopping at Central, Town Hall, Wynyard, 4:30am to about midnight.
Circular Quay, St James and Museum. All suburban lines At night, stand in the
connect with the City Circle at Central station. A con- “Nightsafe” areas marked
venient alternative for exploring the museums and shops on the platform and use
of Darling Harbour is to use the Metro Light Rail (MLR). carriages near the train guard,
signalled by a blue light. After
FINDING YOUR WAY These environmentally midnight, night-ride buses
AROUND BY RAIL friendly trains offer a quicker travel along rail routes, and
and quieter way of visiting all routes pick up from
Operating in the Darling places of interest between George St and Town Hall.
Harbour Area, Sydney’s Glebe and Darling Harbour, Your return rail ticket is valid.
newest transport system is and there are plans in the
the Metro Light Rail (MLR). pipeline to extend the MLR SIGHTSEEING BY
It runs from Central Railway to Circular Quay. MONORAIL AND METRO
Station, along the harbourside Buy tickets on board from LIGHT RAIL (MLR)
and through Pyrmont and the conductor. The daily
Glebe to Star City or Lilyfield. service runs trains every More novel than practical,
the Monorail runs along a
15-minute scenic loop
through central Sydney,
Chinatown and Darling
Harbour. It is an easy way
to travel and sightsee if you
do not feel like walking.
There are eight stops on the
Monorail route: City Centre,
Darling Park, Harbourside,
Convention, Paddy’s Markets,
Chinatown, World Square and
Galeries Victoria. Trains run
from 7am–10pm, Mondays to
Saturdays and 8am–10pm
Sunday. A Monorail Day Pass
Pedestrian concourse outside Central Railway Station allows unlimited rides all day.

USING THE CITYRAIL ROUTE MAP HORNSBY, BEROWRA

E
ST J

BS
WF BS

PB

4U
-FPOBSET
RV JUZ

1
OJ V

The different CityRail lines are colour-

3
6 BDR

JF

IJ

8PMMTUPOFDSBGU
BS

FM
.

coded and route maps are displayed at all

%

8BWFSUPO
BD
.

CityRail stations and inside train carriages. /PSUI
4ZEOFZ

.JMTPOT
1PJOU
Distances shown on the map are not to $JSDVMBS
2VBZ
scale and the routes that lines are seen
to take should not be relied upon when
working out the direction of travel.
8ZOZBSE .BSUJO
1MBDF
,JOHT
$SPTT
4U
+BNFT &EHFDMJGG
5PXO
)BMM
#POEJ
$FOUSBM +VODUJPO
Station for changing
between lines 3FEGFSO

.VTFVN
4V TI PO

UF BN
BO N
EP X SF
ME O
O
$S PE

N FME

1F JTI MM

OB UPX

X
X J

4U TIB
BD /F NP
-F
)
E

UP
P

N m

Station serving
PZ

FS

&STLJOFWJMMF
S
"

two lines (SFFO
4RVBSF

4U
1FUFST
.

CAMPBELLTOWN, CRONULLA, INTERNATIONAL

LIVERPOOL, WATERFALL AIRPORT
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 233

It can be bought at any of the MAKING A JOURNEY BY CITYRAIL

monorail information booths.
The MLR stops at many
places around the Pyrmont
/PSNBOIVSTU

1
8BJUBSB

Study the CityRail 5IPSOMFJHI

1FOOBOU
)JMMT
8BISPPOHB
8BSSBXFF
5VSSBNVSSB
1ZNCMF

route map. Route

#FFDSPGU

area, including Paddy’s

(PSEPO
,JMMBSB
&QQJOH -JOEmFME
$IFMUFOIBN 3PTFWJMMF
-JOF
VOEFS
DPOTUSVDUJPO

Markets, Chinatown, Darling lines are distinguished $IBUTXPPE

"SUBSNPO

FS BSJF

PBE
BS
$BSMJOHGPSE

TJUZ
4U
-FPOBSET

1
OJW V

IJ
3
6 BDR

JF
8PMMTUPOFDSBGU

BS

FM
.

RV
by colour, so simply
5FMPQFB

%
8BWFSUPO

BD
&BTUXPPE

.
/PSUI
4ZEOFZ

Harbour, the Australian

%FOJTUPOF .JMTPOT
1PJOU
$JSDVMBS
2VBZ
8FTU
3ZEF

trace the line from .FBEPXCBOL

8ZOZBSE

National Maritime Museum,

3IPEFT .BSUJO
1MBDF

where you are to $BNFMMJB

3PTFIJMM
$PODPSE
8FTU

/PSUI
4USBUImFME
0MZNQJD
5PXO
)BMM
4U
+BNFT
,JOHT
$SPTT
&EHFDMJGG
#POEJ
$FOUSBM

Star City, and the Fish Market. your destination, +VODUJPO

1BSL
3FEGFSO
$MZEF
.VTFVN

noting where you

EUP O
4V "TI PO

UF BN
4U IBN

SF

O
#V FME

$SP PE

N FME
X JMM
O
VTI

OBM UPX

X
CF

HUP

BD /FXNP
-F
)
ZE

1F JTI
P

N m
m
FC
N

FS

ST
&STLJOFWJMMF

SX
need to change and

BO
JO

BUI
EDP

PN
FN
(SFFO
4RVBSF

4US

EP
)
-J

'M
4U
1FUFST
#FSBMB

.
3FHFOUT
1BSL
.BTDPU

make connections. 4ZEFOIBN

UF F

MMF
SL

SL
PO SZ
PSF
CB

JMM
M

$BO QTJ
X

V
1B

1B

)

WJ
N
CP

SC
N
$BN

SJDL
I
Z

F

LF

#FM

JD
ODI

JMF

-B

VMX
5FNQF

BS
%PNFTUJD
"JSQPSU

TU
1V

.
VSM

%
)
2 Buy tickets from ticket
dispensing machines or
ticket booths at stations
(TravelPass tickets can only
be bought at stations). To
obtain your ticket from a
dispensing machine, press
the button to indicate
destination, then the ticket
type (single, return, etc).
Insert money into the slot,
then collect your ticket
and any change.

Monorail leaving the city centre,

with Sydney Tower in background

COUNTRY AND INTER-

URBAN TRAINS
3 To pass through
the ticket barrier,
insert your ticket (arrow
State Rail has Countrylink side up) into the slot
Travel Centres throughout the at the front of barrier
city and suburbs, which machines (indicated by
provide information about its green arrows). Take
country rail and coach services your ticket as it comes
out of the machine
and also take bookings. There and the barrier gates
are a choice of three Country- or turnstile will open.
link travel passes: Backtracker
Rail Pass, East Coast Discovery
Pass and Austrail Flexi Pass.
Inter-urban trains run to the
4 To find the right
platform, follow
the signs with the
Blue Mountains to Sydney’s same colour code as
west, Wollongong in the south the line you need
and Gosford and Newcastle and the name of the
line’s final station.
to the north (see p229).
USEFUL INFORMATION

CityRail Information 5 On the platform,

display signs show
all the stations the line
Central Railway Station travels through. Stations
Map 4 E5. Tel 131500. at which the next train
Circular Quay Railway Station will stop are lit up and
Map 1 B3. are announced as the
train arrives at the station.
Tel 9224 3553.
www.cityrail.info

Countrylink Travel Centres Tickets

Central Railway Station Sydney Keep your ticket – you
Terminal. Map 4 E5. will need it at the end of
Tel 132232. your journey and possibly
www.countrylink.info to show a ticket inspector
on the train. A TravelPass
Metro Light Rail and (left) and a single-fare
Monorail Tel 9285 5600. ticket (right) are shown.
www.metrotransport.com.au
234 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling by Ferry and Water Taxi

Travelling by ferry is both a pleasure and an efficient
way to travel between Sydney’s harbour suburbs. At the
time of writing, the state-run Sydney Ferries Corporation
provides the majority of services, although its future is
uncertain as private companies bid to take over the
operation. Sightseeing cruises are operated by many
private companies (see p219). Water taxis can be a
convenient, but pricey, alternative to the ferry. A Sydney Ferries First Fleet ferry

TYPES OF VESSEL

Sydney Ferries currently

operate six types of vessel:
the SuperCats serving Watsons
Bay, the RiverCats which
travel up river to Parramatta,
the HarbourCats, the First
Fleet class for short inner
suburb routes, the Lady class
and the large and elegant
Freshwaters which pass the
North and South Heads on
their way to Manly. The
alternative and faster Manly
Fast Ferry also runs from
Sydney ferries coming and going at Circular Quay Ferry Terminal Circular Quay to Manly. It is a
privately operated vehicle so
USING SYDNEY’S FERRIES your ferry will leave, and also TravelPasses and other
give departure times and all composite tickets (see p230)
There is a constant procession stops made en route. are not vaild. Tickets can be
of Sydney Ferries traversing Tickets can be bought from purchased on board or from
the harbour between 6am and ticket booths located on the ticket booths at the wharves.
midnight daily. They service wharves at Circular
most of Sydney Harbour and Quay. You can also
several stops along the buy your ticket from
Parramatta River. Frequent the vending machines.
services run to and from At Circular Quay and
Manly, Darling Harbour, Manly Wharf there
Balmain, Parramatta, Taronga are automatic ticket
Zoo, Neutral Bay, Pyrmont barrier machines.
Bay, Balmain/Woolwich, Put your ticket into
Mosman and Rose Bay, with the slot with the
numerous stops en route. arrow-side up and the A Sydney Ferries SuperCat
Sydney Buses (see p231) arrow pointing into
provide convenient connec- the slot, to board
tions at most wharves. your ferry.
Staff at the Sydney Ferries Manly’s large ferry
Information Office (see p230), terminal is serviced
open 7am–6pm daily, will by regular ferries and
answer passenger queries and the quicker Manly
provide ferry timetables. You Fast Ferry. Tickets
can also phone the Transport and information can
Infoline on 131500 (see p230) be obtained from the
for advice about connections, ticket windows The Freshwater Collaroy en route to Manly
destinations and fares between located in the centre
6am and 10pm daily. of the terminal. No
food or drink is
MAKING A JOURNEY permitted on
BY FERRY SuperCat ferries.
Most, but not all,
All ferry journeys start at the wharves have
Circular Quay Ferry Terminal. wheelchair access.
Electronic destination boards at Passengers should
the entrance to each wharf check before
indicate the wharf from which travelling. A Sydney Ferries RiverCat
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 235

WATER TAXIS

Small, fast taxi boats will carry

passengers to any number of
destinations on the harbour.
You can flag them down like
normal cabs if you spot one
cruising for a fare. Try
Circular Quay near the Over-
seas Passenger Terminal or
King Street Wharf. You can
also telephone for a water
taxi. They will pick up and
drop off at any navigable pier.
Electronic destination board for all ferries leaving Circular Quay Rates vary, but expect to pay
a charge for the boat (about
SIGHTSEEING BY FERRY all river and harbour cruises $45) and an additional fee per
from Circular Quay and person (about $10). They also
Although Sydney Ferries are Darling Harbour and they do operate mini sightseeing tours,
no longer operating not charge a booking fee. of 15- or 45-minutes, taking in
sightseeing tours, catching a Captain Cook, Matilda and the harbour’s main sights.
commuter ferry is still a great Magistic Cruises (see p219)
way to discover the harbour, are the most well-known
and no visit is complete operators and offer a variety
without seeing the Sydney of morning, lunch, afternoon,
skyline from the water. Close- cocktail and dinner cruises.
up views of the Opera House One good option offered by
and Fort Denison can be had both Captain Cook and
from any of the North Shore Matilda Cruises is the hop-on-
commuter routes while the hop-off Harbour Express
Balmain/Woolwich ferry service, which gives the
makes a stop at Cockatoo opportunity of stopping at A water taxi on Sydney Harbour
Island (see p106). As well as seven different sightseeing
providing a fascinating locations throughout the day. USEFUL INFORMATION
glimpse of Sydney’s convict Boats depart every 45 minutes.
history, this island offers Alternatively, for a touch of Australian Travel Specialists
perhaps the best vantage Aboriginal culture, Captain Wharf 6, Circular Quay; Harbourside
point for views of Harbour Cook runs the Tribal Warrior Shopping Centre, Darling Harbour.
Bridge and the city skyline. cruise. This tour includes a Tel 9211 3192.
For a more leisurely cruise visit to Shark Island, an
with a commentary, there is Aboriginal performance and Sydney Ferries Lost Property
an abundance of commercial discussions on traditional Wharf 3, Circular Quay. Map1 B3.
sightseeing cruises covering food gathering and fishing Tel 9207 3101 (8am–4pm Mon–Fri).
all budgets and time techniques. Tours last just
constraints; most last around under two hours and leave Water Taxi Companies
90 minutes. Australian Travel from Circular Quay Wednesday Harbour Taxi Boats Tel 9555 1155.
Specialists has information on to Sunday at 1pm. Harbour Water Tel 1300 306 676.

STATE TRANSIT FERRY ROUTES AROUND SYDNEY HARBOUR

QO\
-R <' 6W 77$

2
D\
5 OHV 0$

0$1/<
QG
(
%H 20 6W (5
DU 5$

<

6X 7KH(VSODQDGH
5G $
 0

Z '2 QJ +%

&K $5

1257+6<'1(< 1(875$/%$< 0260$1%$<

KQ $/
3

+LJK6W +D\HV6W $YHQXH6W

HOR 8

&$ VLQJ * 6W $1.

%
QQ (

 %
.LV ,66 GHQ :

N
W3 7
+

DU
RLQ ,1

.,55,%,//, .855$%$32,17 2/'&5(0251(

3 32
%R ($

+ROEURRN6W .XUUDED5G *UHHQ6W

0

6 +
,1

LD ,&
W
LQ

QW :
ULW ,7$

W
3R

OH /
.

6287+0260$1
UWK 5'

9D 22

+
ED $5
D

W ,&
5

0XVJUDYH6W
%R +,6 1R )2
&D %

6 :

$Y 17
W 6

KQ (1
HD 27

&58,6(6
Q 2,
(

WK 7
H
%$ 5G 29
H

7
RX ,1
-R 5(

VR 3
*U %%

N ,1
ULY

6
OG .

5G

6 2

&5(0251(
6W ($

DZ 6
6W (

D 5
,&

DU 2
'

/ 1
\ 2<1
$

6W 3
*
3 /(

: LQJ %2 1*
UWI :

: 58 LQW

3 3


J 1

U\ +2
UI W 5

H ,1

32,17
XLV +

G 16
\V ,/

HOO 1*
KD 6 8

6W
/R &

OLQ $,
LH

. $5 /,

DP $
R
9

HOH 0

UH 2
HQ $
5

V

0LOVRQV5G
7K /0
+ $5

DU 0
WOH (6

F. /,
+ F0
%,
ROV 0
&

$OI ,/6
' $/

$<
0 $5
'
XQ '

0
+ /$

%
'
'

6W (
*

\ %/

7$521*$
%D 28

=22
'

DU <
3 %$

%UDGOH\V
N

$<
QH (

+HDG5G
/\ 26

5G %
\ 6
5

DU 1

'$5/,1*+$5%285
LOLW 62
0 $7

$TXDULXP
:

%$/0$,1:(67
(OOLRWW6W
0 HH
:
RQ NH
GD QG

3<50217%$<
\ V

%,5.(1+($'
WR 

&DVLQR0DULWLPH0XVHXP
) +R

+HQOH\0DULQH'ULYH
ULG OL
D\ GD
\V

:+$5) :+$5) :+$5) :+$5) :+$5)

    
&,5&8/$548$<)(55<7(50,1$/
236 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling by Car and Bicycle

Driving is not the ideal way to get around central
Sydney, although cars can be very convenient for
journeys into the suburbs and further afield. The city
road network is confusing, traffic is congested and
parking can be expensive. If arriving in Sydney by car,
make sure that your hotel provides parking. Cycling in
the city can also be difficult and dangerous for those
unfamiliar with Sydney’s traffic and road conditions.

DRIVING REGULATIONS

Overseas visitors can use their

usual driving licences to drive
in New South Wales, but must
have proof that they are simply
visiting. When driving ensure
you have your licence or an Traffic on the Harbour Bridge
International Driver’s Permit.
Australians drive on the left- PARKING
hand side of the road and
overtake on the right. Speed Parking in Sydney is strictly
limits and distances are given regulated with fines for any
in metric measurements; in infringements. In certain areas,
the city and most suburbs the particularly along clearways
limit is 50 km/h (30 mph), (indicated by signposts),
Petrol station with full driveway and 100–110 km/h (60– vehicles are towed away
service in Balmain (see p131) 65 mph) on motor- if parked illegally.
ways, freeways Contact the Sydney
DRIVING IN SYDNEY and highways. Traffic Control
Drivers and Centre to find out
If you are planning to use a passengers must where your vehicle
car to drive around greater wear seatbelts. has been impounded if
Sydney, you will need a good Drivers must give this happens. There
street directory. It is best to way to emergency are car parks
avoid the peak-hour traffic service vehicles. At scattered around the
periods (about 7:30–9:30am some clearly marked city area. They vary
and 4–7:30pm). Regular traffic intersections, drivers widely, both in how
update reports are broadcast are allowed to make much they charge and
on many radio stations. a left-hand turn at a Beware of their opening hours.
On a positive note, petrol is red light after kangaroos crossing Most close after mid-
relatively cheap, being a little stopping, but must night, but many close
more expensive than in North give way to pedestrians. earlier – check carefully
America, but about half the The 0.05 per cent maximum before parking your car for
price of petrol in Europe. Dis- blood alcohol level for drivers the evening.
pensed by the litre, it comes is enforced by random breath Look out for the blue and
in super, regular unleaded, tests. Drivers found to be over white “P” signs or seek out one
premium unleaded and diesel the legal limit will incur heavy of the metered parking zones.
grades. Most petrol stations fines, loss of licence, and even Many metered parking zones
are self-service and many of prison sentences. Should you apply 7 days a week and as
them accept major credit cards. be involved in an accident late as 10pm. This varies from
while over the limit (whether council to council.
or not you are at fault), your
insurance may be invalidated. CAR HIRE
The NRMA (see p223) has a
free 24-hour roadside service Metropolitan rates offered by
for members. Most car hire the major agencies (Avis,
companies provide free Budget, Hertz and Thrifty)
roadside emergency service. range from about $75 a day
Many toll roads, including for a small car to $100 a day
the Sydney Harbour Bridge for a large car. These rates
Kerbside Traffic Signs and Cross City Tunnel, are usually include comprehensive
Always pay strict attention to cashless. If your car does not insurance. However, many of
Sydney’s parking and traffic have an electronic tag then the other agencies listed in the
signs as fines for infringements phone the RTA on 131 865 Yellow Pages telephone direc-
can be very expensive. within 48 hours to pay. tory offer highly competitive
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 237

prices, and rentals can be DIRECTORY

obtained for as little as $35–$40
a day. Be sure to read the fine CAR HIRE COMPANIES
print on hire agreements as
deals may not be as attractive Avis
Tel 136 333. www.avis.com.au
as they first seem – and be
aware of the costs you could Budget
incur in the event of an acci- Tel 1300 362 848.
dent if you opt for less than www.budget.com.au
full insurance cover. Cycling in Centennial Park
Generally, rates are lower if Hertz
Tel 133 039. www.hertz.com.au
you hire for more than three major companies. Smoking in
days, or if you take a limited, taxis is forbidden by law in Thrifty
low-kilometre deal. Charges New South Wales. Tel 1300 367 227.
may apply if you drive over www.thrifty.com.au
100 km (60 miles) a day, travel SYDNEY BY BICYCLE
over rough rural roads or for TAXI COMPANIES
late returns. You must over 21 Visitors would be well
years old to hire a car from advised to restrict their cycling Legion Cabs
some companies and if you do to designated cycling tracks, or Tel 131 451.
not have a credit card, you will to areas where motor traffic is Premier Cabs
need to leave a deposit. Make likely to be light. Helmets are Tel 131 017
sure you return the car full of compulsory by law.
fuel, as you will be charged a Keen cyclists who wish to RSL Cabs
premium rate for filling it. take advantage of Sydney’s Tel 9581 1111.
undulating terrain and pleasant Taxis Combined
TAXIS weather can seek advice from Tel 133 300.
Bicycle New South Wales. It
Taxis are plentiful in Sydney publishes a handbook, Bike It, CYCLE HIRE
in the city and inner suburbs, Sydney, which has a map of AND INFORMATION
although they can be scarce good cycling routes. Bonza
“between shifts” at 2:30– Bike Tours offers entertaining Bicycle New South Wales
3:15pm. There are taxi ranks and energetic guided cycling Level 5, 822 George St
at many city locations and tours, which take in many of (entrance on Little Regent St).
taxis are often found outside Sydney’s best sights. Map 4 D5. Tel 9281 5400.
the large city hotels. The four Centennial Park is one of the Bonza Bike Tours
main taxi companies provide most popular spots; on week- Tel 9247 8800.
a reliable telephone service; ends and every evening packs
book your taxi at least 15 of riders can be seen cycling Centennial Park Cycles
minutes before you need it. through the park. You can take 50 Clovelly Rd, Randwick
Meters indicate the fare plus your bicycle on CityRail trains (near Centennial Park).
any extras, such as booking (see p232), but you may have Tel 9398 5027.
fees and waiting time. Fares, to pay an extra child’s fare. Inner City Cycles
as well as extra charges, are
151 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe.
regulated and are more
Tel 9660 6605.
expensive after 10pm. Tips
are not normally expected, Woolys Wheels
but it is customary to round the 82 Oxford St, Paddington.
fare up to the next dollar. Map 5 B3. Tel 9331 2671.
Taxis designed to accommo-
date disabled passengers can USEFUL NUMBERS
be booked through any of the
Cabcharge is for account Cross City Tunnel
The orange light, customers only, but some Tel 9033 3999.
when lit, shows the taxis also accept American www.crosscity.com.au
taxi is available. Express and Diners Club. Infringement Processing
Taxi licence Bureau
number Tel 1300 138 118.

Taxi Complaints
Department of Transport,
418a Elizabeth St, Surry Hills.
Map 4 E3. Tel 1800 648 478.

Transport
Management Centre
The taxi company name and The taxi driver’s photo Tel 132 701 (24-hour service).
phone number are displayed on licence must be on clear www.rta.nsw.gov.au
front driver and passenger doors. display within the taxi.
238 S T R E E T F I N D E R

SYDNEY STREET FINDER

T he page grid superimposed on
the Area by Area map below
shows which parts of Sydney
are covered in this Street Finder.
Map references given for all sights,
to locate. A complete index of the
street names and places of interest
follows on pages 246–9. The key,
set out below, indicates the scale of
the maps and shows what other
hotels, restaurants, shopping and features are marked on them,
entertainment venues described including railway stations, bus
in this guide refer to the maps in terminals, ferry boarding points,
this section. All the major sights are emergency services, post offices and
clearly marked so they are easy tourist information centres.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

(see pp70–71) viewed from
North Sydney Olympic Pool

-%
'*&
"%
KEY TO STREET FINDER

#3
Major sight

Place of interest
$ ")
*--

Other building

CityRail station

Monorail station

03
Metro Light Rail (MLR) station

65
%*453*#
Bus terminus

Coach station

Ferry boarding point

&3/

RiverCat boarding point

8 & 45

Taxi rank

Parking

Tourist information

Hospital with casualty unit DARLING

Police station HARBOUR

Church

Synagogue

Mosque

Post office

Golf course
3 0 "%

Freeway 1 " 3 3 " . "5 5"

Railway line

Monorail

Ferry route "%

30

Pedestrianized street




5:
$*

0 metres 250 0 metres 500

0 yards 250 0 yards 500

 S T R E E T F I N D E R 239

Sundial in the Royal Botanic Gardens (see pp104–5)

4:% /&:
:
8"

)"3 #06 3
()

Statues on the Art Deco Anzac

)*

Memorial in Hyde Park (see p86)

56/ /&-

THE ROCKS
AND
CIRCULAR
QUAY
&9 13 &4 4 8"
:

BOTANIC GARDENS
AND
THE DOMAIN

Enjoying coffee outside Bar Coluzzi

in Darlinghurst (see p194)
CITY KINGS CROSS AND
CENTRE DARLINGHURST

8 *- -*
".
45 3& &5

/&8

40 6
5)


)
&"

%

30 " %

0
9'
03%

4 5
3&&
5

PADDINGTON
45 3& &5

.0
03

&

"/

1"
3,


;"$

30"
(

%



%0 8 -*/

09

'0 && 5
3 %
45 3
1" 3
"%&


40 65 )
 T
IN
 0O


NS (ARBOUR

-C
AHO

4:%/&:
)"3#0
C- "RIDGE

-A
 - (ARBOUR
LING

HON
$ A R
1JFS


S0O
8BMTI

63
56//&-
INT
#BZ
$!7%3


":
7HARF 0/).4

8
%"8&4
10*/5

4HEATRE

()
1"3,

)*
"

30
"%

&
30

&

3
5

45

-%
, 4 0/

/

-),,%23 &&
40

$BNQCFMMT

'*&
,

53
*$

4 $PWF
)

0 / ) . 4 4HEATRE
5

"%
3YDNEY

*$
3

50
3

8/

(&
&

'0

#AMPBELLôS 3YDNEY

45

)
(

4
1
#3

03
-"
*/
%"-

3&

$& 3TOREHOUSES /PERA

)*

5

(&

30

/4

30"%

(&5

/
(OUSE
,40
&5
0

8

4(%
%&

*$
:
"7&/6 & 3
1

%0
:

53&

7ESTPAC
&

/4
-"/&

-USEUM
-0

2/#+3



4

30"

8*/%.*-- (EROOF
45
4 5
%

7ATERLOO !RGYLE


%

53*/*5

0WFSTFBT
1BTTFOHFS

-"/

'ARRISON 3TORES
1-"$&
#HURCH 3AILORôS 5FSNJOBM
#&3

" 3 ( : - &
"3(: 4HE2OCKS

-&
$ISCOVERY (OME
$6.

8 453&&
"5 4 5
0 /
30"% -USEUM #ADMANôS

) * ( )

":
'OVERNMENT
) * ( )

"3(
0#4&37"503:
:-& #OTTAGE 4 ZEOFZ
, & / 5

,8




(OUSE



4 5

45
1"3, 3&&

8"-
5
$PWF

35

&5
0

'
(-

3YDNEY 7RITERSô
&
453&


&3

&" 45

06$&45&3

/BSERVATORY -USEUMOF
) * $ ,

7ALK
61 1

3USANNAH #ONTEMPORARY!RT
0LACE
(&03(

2 6 ":

":

4 5 3 & &

&5
4 5 3 & &

48
- " / &

45

5
13&4

3&

$*3$6-"3
26":

4 5 3 & &
4 0 /

45
&9

3

50--
-"
5

$")*--

10*/5
6

$")*--




5

&&5

3$

&913&448

"-' 3&%
$*
0/

.ATIONAL4RUST 453 &&5 ":

453

#ENTRE

$JSDVMBS
2VBZ
(5

&5

"-#&35
45


5

" 3 * &
3&

453&&5
*/
%

&44 36(
453&&

&9 #USTOMS
45

#:
1
-"/

453&&5
33

3&

-

453 (OUSE
*#

&&5
)"

:
#&3

. " $ 2 6

*USTICEAND
#6

-0'564
453&&5
(&03(&
5
3 0 "

--
&3

4

4 5 3 & & 5

1-
&5

0OLICE-USEUM
/&
4

$6.

0%
45
*/

"

80

1-

$&
+&/,*/

&45

-0'564
-"

1)*--*1
"$
6/%&3

:06/(

03*6.

&
(-06$

7"5
4&3
$0/
%

3 %

%"--&:
453&&5 -ACQUARIE & 5

(3047 &/03
45 0LACE 4 5 3 &

-USEUMOF
-"/( ( &
# 3 * %
5

3YDNEY
&&

,ANDS
(3&4)"

1"3,
#ONSERVATORIUMOF


53
03

$ " )* - -

$EPARTMENT
4 5 3 & & 5

4

45

-"/&

-USIC
/(

#3*%(&

1 * 5 5

"UILDING
65

-"/&
-"

8IBSG
 /"
+".*40/
453&&5 #
453&&5
3*#

1BTTFOHFS
10-&

&/
/(
3T0HILIPôS

3 0 : " -
1)*--*1


5

3* &5
4 6 4 4

5FSNJOBM
 5

&

&91

#HURCH #0/%
453&&5 41 3&

&
*45

3
0

'VODUJPO 45
5
/
45

4

&5

3&

$FOUFS

453&&5

( " 3






%

3&

45
44
--

& 3
453& 5

45

$635*/
1-" &&

8

":
&

."3("3&5
$&
/

1

5

/
& 9

-*
0

8:/:"3%
!BN !MRO

h$
3/

*(

*-
0

1"3, ) 6 "UILDING 4)",&41&"3&
1-"$&

#-
$ - " 3
: 0 3 ,
45&

, & / 5

/
4644&9
-"

5 &
%&.&453 &.1*3&
3

1

&
-"
8:/:"3%


-"/&

/& $)*'-&:

8&

1-"$&
$"33*/(50/
45

426"3&
8ZOZBSE 4 5 3
& & 5 3TATE,IBRARY
3&&5

4 5 3 & & 5
/&

&&5

OF.37
3 9 $ . % 9
: 0 3 ,

0ARLIAMENT
& / $ &

5

45
3 0 " %
"4)
45

&34 ,*/ &

(OUSE

453&&
"()


45

)




453
(&03(&
4 5 3 &

1-

- " / &

8:/:" )04,*/(
"3*&

3%

1-

%BSMJOH 453&&5 "/(&-

8 ) & "

4 5 3 & &

)BSCPVS #"33"$,
."35*

1BTTFOHFS -"/& / 3YDNEY
1

1-"$&
5FSNJOBM 7ESTIN(OTEL (OSPITAL
& 5

1 * 5 5

#"33"$,
45
."$26
$"45-&3&

AND'ENERAL
&-*;"#&5

5
0OSTOFFICE .BSUJO
5)&

1
4 53 & &

-

1)*--*

308&
45 1MBDF
5
30

%0."*/
4 1 * 5 "
-&&4
$5
4-*
"%

3&&5
,*/(




45

,*/(








4 4HE



53&&5 -INT

:
) 0

3TRAND!RCADE 3T*AMESô 26&&/4
3

3YDNEY
453&&5

&
(&03(&
4 5 3 &

426"3& -
4 5 3 & &

!QUARIUM #HURCH "

-
4 6 4 4

453&&5

(
AND3YDNEY
, & / 5

4
3 %
13*/$

5

7ILDLIFE7ORLD .&


4 5 3 & &

" &
" (YDE0ARK

3YDNEY
+ -
5

5 "ARRACKS
3
#&

4OWER
4

4U
+BNFT "
4-*1

& 5

35
& 9

3%

0YRMONT
5

45

"()

"RIDGE ."
3:
&&5

4 5 3 & & 5
& 5 )

"SDIJCBME
4
. " 3 , & 5

3

3TATE 'PVOUBJO






453

0"

4HEATRE $JUZ
$FOUSF
%BSMJOH

%

3T-ARYôS
1*55

453&&5
4 5 3 &

1BSL 1UEEN
453&&5

$"45-&3&
4 5 3 &

-ARBLE ) : % &
#ATHEDRAL

8:

6ICTORIA
& - * ; " #

"AR %

%

"UILDING
1,
"
5) & % 3 " -
3 0
0"

1 " 3 , $"
$0--&(&

."3,&5
"5
3

*( 45
#0
& 5

1)*--*1

308

/&
& 5

)" (

&

-"

1"3,
. 45

/6
)&

&3

%36*55

3*-&:
4
/

7&
8

"/

1-

"
:630

*(
(

4HE'REAT 4BOESJOHIBN
$00,
)"

%36 *55
45 1BSL
1MB[B
3YNAGOGUE (BSEFOT 1"3,
 O O
GA:

Y
AN N
SM 4ARO

L " A
-O

T RA
EU . -ANLY

2OSE"AY

&ORT$ENISON
0INCHGUT

1 P S U

+ B D L T P O

("3%&/

-RS-ACQUARIES
#HAIR *4-"/%

.34
."$26"3*&4
'BSN
$PWF 10*/5
" %

%
"
0
3 "OESFX
#PZ

3 0

$IBSMUPO
1PPM
("3%&/
*4-"/%



4

/"7"-
%0$,:"3%
* &


4
3
&
6 "
*
3
"

2
6

$
2

# 0 5 " / * $
"
$

$"15"*/
$00,

"
.

% & / 4 (3"7*/(
%0$,
4

8PPMMPPNPPMPP

. 3

#BZ
8:


:

0ALM
4

-
"
3

(OUSE
%
.

6ISITORS
&

%

#ENTRE
"

7OOLLOOMOOLOO
3 0

&INGER7HARF
4

453&&5
5
- * / $ 0 - /


$ 0 6 35

(3"/5)".

/&05

&

4"*/5
&
'

&

"7
0/443
5

3
"

.D%0/"-%

45
)

0/).4

.D%0/
%

"-%


-
"/&
"

&MJ[BCFUI

0
3

$) "- -*4




" 7& #BZ
# *-- :

.D&-) /6 &
0
45"*3 /&

3 4
30$,8"--
!RT'ALLERYOF $ 0 8 1 &
5

-"/& "
53&&

50--
3
.EW3OUTH #-"/ %LIZABETH"AY
&5

%


4
%

&&5

10*/5 53&& 30$,8" &MJ[BCFUI

7ALES (OUSE



45 3&

5 )"3/&5 --
& & 5

1PJOU

0

$3&45





4

/*$) 5

0-40

453

0/ "$&

/


4 /&4#* 45
53&& 55

/ 4 - 0
1-
4-0

5 45
"
& 5

7
#0 63 ,&

8*-4
)0/&

& & 5

0/

&
-*/(

#&"3&

8

453
4 5 3

/
%
(

&&5 6 &
4 5 3 &

&41
-"/ 1"3,

"

1- 6/ ,&
5 /

6.


45

55
45
5

-"/&

"%
4 5 3

30
/ 6

%08

.D&-

8



453&&

&
."//*
$& :0

(3 *'' *5 /(

)4
45

45
6.

564$6-
&4 /

13*/(
$3*$,

"

7//,,//-//,//
"

7&
5

-"/& 564$6-

"

$3 0)

453&&5
7

)" 3. &3 &

"$

/
" .

:
+

&5
1"-.&3

45 )6()& 6
3

4



45 ( 3& &/

%
4 5 3 & & )6()&4

&
- & "
0 3 * "

*5)

3&&5




45 3&

,/08

4*

&
" 7 &/

6 ( )

)6()&4




038&--

6&


:

1-
-"/&

"

3 0 "

#



45

&5

$)"3-&4
038&- %

)

:
. " $

45

#044-& -
453&
& 5

'0 3# &4

7 * $ 5

4

(
45 3&

#"

:

# 3 0

&5 & - * ; "
#

)0-%48035)

5&33"$

45

& %/

1-
%
"7&

%"

"7&/6&

(
$308/

&

$"5)&% &:
)

"/
"/

3" 5-
&"3-

&5

-
#"30

:/
:
-
%0 8 -*/

453&&5 #*3
&7"/4
413*/('*&-

"#

-"/&
)063*(

-&

3%

563/ %L!LAMEIN &- *;

"%

4-

$"5)&%
-"/&&3
3"
*#3

-
45 &OUNTAIN
30

$3044 3"&
1-
-"/&
 )&3

"%


5


4

30
#&3
*&8
:7

5

#"

"/%
.
4 5

*--

1 *3

45

4-
3"
8

3 - * / (
*
":

.
4
5

"

$0..6/*5:

+PIOTUPOT

&3

30
1"3,

1 :
"

3"
%

%"

$
#BZ &5

&
3 .
&

$305
4 53

4
44
"/

0 /
)
.
8

"

3 %

#0

5
1ZSNPOU

3
":

1*
* 4
5
# 4UBS
$JUZ #BZ

33
& & &4

+0
5
+PIO
4U

/ $BTJOP

&& 5 3 +0

"
4RVBSF

/&
53
ç4

.



4


092-/.4

"
4

"/

1:3.0/5

45

4
. /
) !USTRALIAN

5
8 + 0 #":
1"3,

3&
0 3TAR#ITY

3
.ATIONAL

.
3

4
&5
#

&
0
"%

5

-ARITIME

6/

&
3
-USEUM

5
&
5

#

&

5

&5
+0
"

/ 1ZSNPOU

4

4 5 3 &
/&
4" #BZ
,

53
"O[ 6/
4

BD
# %&

&&
SJEH 34 6/*0/

3%




1"






4 5 3

4 5
F &&5
5

5
&&

5&
4 4

3&

)"
5 53 "%

3/
53

4 30
&5

&%8"
3 3

-*5

04
33
&&

& &
*--

/
-"/&

5-
6 /* 0

5&
& 5 (& )BSCPVSTJEF

5
*4
#6
5

)"3800%
4
&
.
. .*- *%

3

%

#3

%"3
-8

)" 38 00

&&5
30
-&3

06

45
'JTI

-" /&
"3
&% 8" 3%

8
5

-"
.BSLFU

3&
/5
/

-*/(







30"%

-" /&
"

0

4 5 3
/&

45

&5
.
30

3
#6//

3&

453&&

1:
"%

45 5
14

&5
(*1
5
(ARBOURSIDE&ESTIVAL

":




0/ 5



//
#6 & -ARKETPLACE
3. &
4

1:
&9
/
1:3*%( -"

1&
3YDNEY&ISH
"

3.
#MBDLXBUUMF
#

3*

.633
%
-ARKET

.
"

&/
#BZ

0/
#6

5

-8

4

5


1
"3

53
7ATERFRONT $POWFOUJPO
- "
"

&&

)
!RCADE


3

5
5
&&
$

#ONVENTION
"
3

4
0"

45
&

#ENTRE





$ &/5

3

/&

53
- &/
-"

3
"- $POWFOUJPO
&4

&&
* 4

-&
$3
/
3"

5
("
8"55

"

45
0

) %
5

:5
3

"
"

34



:

'0 0 8FOUXPSUI

+0
-
&
)

3 1BSL



/ :5

/&

3YDNEY!RT
3

4
-
- "3 4

'ALLERY
5



'0

"/
:

% "
&
3 &&
3

&
8

4 5
3

&
4 5'*(
-"/
3 -
+ 0
&

4 5

"%
"5

(




"7

'

*%
#6

* /
0

"
/
3

'*(
3
/

3
&

5-

-8
&

(

:
8&/58035)

&
&

1 -

33 #

'& /&
8
5

3:
"3

45

&
)& 7&

&
"$

-" "3 &

&

/ &
26 "/ -"
"
/3

&
"

&

"/

&
&YIJCJUJPO
-
1"3,
/

-
#6 4

5
:

3:

(

% && "3

3*
#&
35 5

26
5

3

*3

# 5



0/

45
--

4
8

,
4



#&

-0

: /
("

&7

(MFCF



8

"



--
%

*
0

8 3%
&3

"

*-
6

"70/

45

&7

$"

5
3(

4
3

4
&

3
%

" 3:
3

3
%

"3
"

5
53
5
)

26
&

"

&&
#" &(" 0 3 0&

&
3
%

(3&:)06/%

,& 3 - # " /

"

"%
#

3 5



(
:7 /

.

&
"

&&
3

45
-*

53"$,



)
" -

3
*&8

"

5
&&

53
-"

#6 45

/



/

"
-*

450



6

4
(

45

&3
3-
/


4 &

(

-. 6&
/

-0

5

45
*/4
)

&

1" "7&/
3&

5
(

:
7
.

#3

',%"%

-"

3
50

3

0/
-0

&/
6(
#"

6
&5



06

)
/

45
(

"

)
.

3%

%

&
(0

1"

#"

()

/
-

)
3

45

-

) -:

".
&

55
3%

(
&

"
".

3,
"

06

,
&/

-*
&5
#

45

-"

$
/

03 %

4

6
ç

*-
)

&

5"

&

-# 45
,
$

3
53
".

"
- 8
0-

8
+ 0

"3 :
-'

&

#63
& 5

0 8

&&
#0

5
5"

% 1"3 "/&
&5

.
06

&/

/&

4

3 3

"
"
-'

-
63

58
/

"
5

5

-"
3%

-

1

0

/
06

/&

0

3
/&

0
"/ &

"
&

0/

-

35
-"
(0 -"/ &5

3



"
3%
0

%

/4


"

/.

45

"

4
& - 45 &--

)


)& "/&
5

%&
/&

5& &

7&
*/

4
30 4

3&

1) -


$ ) 8& 5$)
/)

&5

/&



45

*--
4& 5

5,4)-/
5 3



".





5

*1
453
45 -"
#"

/&
.

"/&

/(

-

&

& &&5

&" &--

/,

&&

&5
& &

(




- "

453& */(

45*3 &

4

4
45*3-*

3

3&





-
*45*& 5

-"/
53

# 5
*%

-"

&5
*5$

/ 3 45
-
&

5
8

3

4

0
*5
/&

3 )
1 & 3

&-("
"

)+
'0-&:
6

3
&

3

45
.

(
#
0

0 (
/

%
"5

.D

)
5

-
0

3&45
1"3,
+ 5
$)3
"

& 3
$08
35

0
45

8"

$
3

# 6 3YDNEY
4 5

,&

/
%

(
" & ."$"35 )
# " :

0

&

.

-
5-

45*&
)NSTITUTEOF
/

&
&

55

1


3*
#":
-"

)
&

$

#

$

#


4

& 5 4ECHNOLOGY




4 5 3 & &
-&

" & -"

5

26&&/


#

. -
&

(



/
53

-
-

- 1



4 & //
#
"

5
"
53&&5
-"

&&

& &




5

:

3
/&

8 /




4



$

5 % # - & 0
&

$ 3 "3
5

-


/&

- &
,
&

4 & &

&&5 .

5 ,&--:


453
3

3

"
.06/

8 5
5

%


/


4 5 3 & &
(-&#&



4

& &


4 &

.06/5"

5

3 /


&#&/&;&3

&#&/&;&3

8&45&/%
&5

3

8
3
8

8 8 5

&
-"/&

-"/&
&

&




45

& &
& -"/&

4 5 3

"5
453&

4 4 5
1

5 5 /


1 -
5"*/

-

. . 5
8

"
-

. 0 0

0 /
5 -
*/

3
1-
&

0

0 3 3

* &


4 5 3 & & 5
)

6 & & / 3&&5

.

4."*-



&&
$

/

45
$

- -


&
,&55-&
-"

0
, -: /

5
- 5
" " (3&&,
*5

6
"

/

/ /





7 % % /
.

5





& & 5

4
7& &3 &
4."*-
-"/& "4
'3"/

3/



5

/


0.
/&

0

3 &&5
0








453 "#"4
5)



45

"

/ / 4

&


4

5 &
3 '3"/$*4 45
#"3/
/ &

53

3
- 5 08 &/


45

- 453&&5
1- #:

& " (
&& " & / 0 3
3

/
%&

5

5 & & %& " 0

3&&5

4 /&
-0 45

38 % & 08&/
-" 8"55-&
1-

%(&

$ " 5 ) & 3 * / &

4 5 3 & & 5
&/
5

453&&5
4& 45

-"
# 3 0 " % 8 " :
".

"#& 3$3 0. #*&

/&
&3

#6$,-"/%
45

" 3 6 / % & -
4 5 3 & & 5

3 0 " %

4 5

"%

5NIVERSITYOF 1 " 3 3 " . " 5 5 " "/&

* 7 & 3 4*5 :
"7&

(3"'50/
-
45
4)& 1) & 3%

,/0 9

4 5


30

3YDNEY 7 * $ 5 0 3 * "

34* (3"'50/







45
.003("5&

/ *7& 5
:


1

$*5:

45

6

$&
3% 1 " 3 ,
4$*&/
-

6/
 &5
&
453& 5

$635*/
1-"

&5
$&

3&
."3("3&5

503

--
#&
8IBSG


3&
45
45 /&
45 /5

)

1BTTFOHFS
5FSNJOBM
 8:/:"3%

*#6

4 5
0

*(
h$
) 6 4)",&41&"3&
1-

4 5 3 & & 5

'VODUJPO
$FOUFS 1"3,

#-
: 0 3 ,

&5
/

*453

, & / 5
5 &

-*
4644&9
-"
%&.&453 &.1*3&

/&

*-
3

$"33*/(50/



45
&
-" $)*'-&:
3TATE

3/
%

1)
1-"$& /&

8:/:"3%



-"
$ - " 3

453&
426"3&
4 5 3 ,IBRARYOF

5 3 & & 5







& & 5
.37

45&
8ZOZBSE

/&

3 9 $ . % 9
8&

&5
%BSMJOH

& 5

"4)

45
)BSCPVS &34 ,*/ &



45 0ARLIAMENT

3 0 " %

- "

5)
453&

4 5 3 &



1BTTFOHFS (OUSE

: 0 3 ,
1-

& / $ &
8:/:" )04,*/(

1 * 5 5




4
5FSNJOBM 3%

1-
8)

"/(&-

"3*&


453&&5

4 5 3
4 6 4 4 #"33"$,

& "5
3 0 " %

."35*

/ &
+ING3TREET -"/& /










1-"$ 3YDNEY
&

* 1




7HARF #"33"$, (OSPITAL

4 5 3 & & 5

&-*;"#&
45 7ESTIN

& & 5

& 9

(OTEL .BSUJO

."$26
1



45

1MBDF

1 ) * - -
308&
45

0 4 1 * 5 " -
-&&4
$5
4-*

53&&5

,*/(




4 ,*/(







4
4HE

( & 0 3 ( &
-INT

4 5 3


4 5 3
53&& 5
3TRAND!RCADE 3T*AMESô
453&&5

)
#HURCH


4 5

, & / 5

13*/

3% $&
&4
" (YDE0ARK
3YDNEY .
& & 5

" "ARRACKS
& & 5

-#
4OWER

+
3 & & 5

3YDNEY 4U
+BNFT

45

&3
5
3
4-*1

!QUARIUMAND %
45

.
3YDNEY7ILDLIFE "3:




4
3

53&&5
3 & & 5



%

7ORLD

0YRMONT







4 5
"SDIJCBME

"RIDGE . " 3 , & 5 3TATE $JUZ 'PVOUBJO

3 & " ( )
4HEATRE $FOUSF

5
%BSMJOH

4
1UEEN 6ICTORIA 

4 5 3 & &
1BSL -ARBLE 3T-ARYôS

4 5 3 &

"UILDING





453&&5

"AR
) : % &
#ATHEDRAL
%

$PDLMF

."3,&5
308

%3 " -
3 %

0"

$" 5 ) &
$ " 4 5 - &
3

#BZ

#0
1)*--*1

"5

1 " 3 ,

$0--&(&
#ROSS#ITY

0.
1"3,
& 5
)&

4UNNEL %36*55
1-

&3
8

"/
6&

(


45 (BMFSJFT 4HE'REAT 4BOESJOHIBN
$00,

45
&/
%36*55







7JDUPSJB 3YNAGOGUE (BSEFOT "7
1*55

1"3,




3YDNEY 1 " 3 , *(
4OWN(ALL )" $ 0 0 ,

45

4 5 3
& & 5
5

1"3,
5PXO


:
4

4

%36*55 4:%/&:
8*--*"

4"/%

-"/& 426"3& )BMM .
45

%"

# & 5 )

53&&5
# "5 ) 6 !USTRALIAN
3 4 5

3T!NDREWôS
-USEUM
)

#ATHEDRAL








4 6 4 4
"

4 5 3 & &
+".&4
-"/&

4
5
3
#

0
3EGA

& - * ; "
4 5 3 & & 5

7ORLD
6

& 9

56.#"-0/(
1PPM
PG

3

8*-.05


45 3FnFDUJPO
1"3,
$0--&(&

$!2,).' "-#*0/


1- $&/53"-


45
!NZAC-EMORIAL '3"/$
*4
453





4

&&5
(!2"/52
&&5
4 5 3 &

)"3(3"
7&
%XHIBITION .VTFVN -"/&

4 5 3
5

#HINESE - * 7
& 3 1
#ENTRE 'ARDEN 0 0 - 8)*5-".
$) "3 -0
55
5 3 & &

-" /& &

/(

426"3&
& &

%06(-" 4 5 3 & & 5

0
& 5

$IJOBUPXO 44 8PSME
9'

30

-"/&
4RVBSF
:630

0






45
%*90/


4

3%
4 5 3

6 &
"

&"("3
$-"3,&




453&&5

%

&&5

5

453
$"3365)&
4
/*5)4%"-&

-"/& 34 -:0/4

53
&/

-"/& /03."/
"-#&3 5"


4 5

1-

&& 453&&5
5

&

3 ( 0 6
3 & " ( )

5
7
"/

1*& - # 6 3


&5

%NTERTAINMENT /



"
4
-

3&

#ENTRE '"$503:
45 4 5 3 & 10 09'03%

45
:4

& 5 1-
"3 426"3&
&.

4
,*.#&3

5

) 5
5

8

&

5
#().!4/7. /&


4
"/
4 5 3 & &

0OWERHOUSE 3
)"3#06

$ " 4 5 - &

-"
"/
5

0 (0
$0..0/8&"-5 )

45

*4 #

:
6-
-USEUM -*55-&
)":

45
-*$

8






-"/&

'0

1BEEZhT #6 8"
3&&

#3

5 3/ */&
1&

.BSLFUT /




45

)6 / 5

(06-#63
45
& /

3


45

1BEEZhT $".1 -"/& 3&

#&-- 8 &5

45

.BSLFUT









453
&&5

0.

) ":

453&
4:

&5 $BQJUPM





#APITOL 45

45
/ * 6.

4HEATRE 3&
( &

4RVBSF

0ADDYôS
3

&5

&5


)

# 6

)":
5

"/&

-ARKETS
3&
5

5NIVERSITYOF
4 5 3
2 6

5 3 & &
53&&
4
453

&&5
"

$ " . 1 # & - -
45

4ECHNOLOGY #-"$,
0 3



&&

4 5 3


& 3
-

. " 3 :






4 5 3 & & 5

6-5*.0
#63/ & & 5

3

" :

$0..0/8&"-5)




453&&5

"/&

4".6&-

45

3%
& 3
4

45



5

)"/%4
45

-"/&

"%
4.*5)




453&&5


"3,
3

30

)


-

/&

' 0 45 &
3
&&5

4
1" 3 ,

# "5 . " /





-
( &

"/

#&"6$)".1























* 4

(00%$)"1



1

-"

0
"4 #"3 #&-.03&






45

55
453

-08
&

. 0. &
" # & 5

&5 5* 5)


45 3 & 4 & 3 7 0 * 3

3& 6-

!USTRALIAN -"
/ 1"3, 4 5 3 & & 5
1*

45
:

350/

3"
"ROADCASTING 8
40
83

*()
#ORPORATION /


4

1- 5 ."$,&:


"4 3"
5

45

ç

/0

0. &% -"/&

3 * - &

8

7"-&/5 -" 40
3YDNEY4ECHNICAL 5) /& / %: "
&

& - * ;

*/&
45
- " / /
&

5-&

"

#OLLEGE4!&% #
5

7& * 0 4 5 3

& & 5
/6
4 5

-* 55 -&
-*5

/
& /
" -#
&5

*0 /
4

-
" & 53 &&
3&

5 6 5
5

&
*+0
3

3&



4
45

&

# 3"*-8":
"-
45
"/

5)

#*
&

426"3&

5NIVERSITYOF 0/
45

4 5 3

-

"-
:

3:

4ECHNOLOGY & & 5

&

8&
"3

&


."

8 ":


5

0/

03
.

/& &

45
-" &76
&5

..

45 76&
-.

#
&5

$FOUSBM
3BJMXBZ
&- '*5;3

3&&5
#&

'0
--
$0

.0
--&

0:
5&33:

#&
3&

3& 45
4UBUJPO 7&
3&

&/
45

#&

3&
45

&5

- &5

"6
3*-&:

" :
"/
45

3&
-*5

40 &
45

45

# 3 0 " % 8 9

$03#

1)
45
5-& 45
3&(

4

*"
/&

0h-06()-*/

,&/4* 45

3&

35229( ),,3
&3
-"

:&3 ,*1

&/5

%8 5 1"



(

9


4 5





&/

4
-.

&

3& 453&

/(50

)0- 5



45
%-

&5
&
5

401) &5


453

(00-%

5
3" /

4 45 -"/&*"

$)"

00

4 5

-&

45 -&4

ç ç ç45
3&
-&

45

&5
-*55-&

/

45

% $0
3*-&:

65
3-
&&5

$6

"/

01
(3*''*/

)
/0350/

& 3


3 $00 45 &3


5&
)&3

4

-" #&"5 1&3
8"

53&
-"
/& 5 * &5 /&

&


 5)

" # $
#64#:

3 - &"3-
45
3 $-&6 8

$&




1-
-"/&

53&&5

4

,&//&% 0

"%
"

&&5
/&

3/
3*-&:
4

-"
5
:
4- 3

-" &

45



4

#"

&/
45

& 5

30
"

". /&
:

1
5"-#05

#"32

6

-"


45
/ 5

&
453
'"6$&5

4
/ 304

1"-.&3
-"/&

4

04
465503

/$

3%
&

&"
*"








-:

4 5 3 &

45

")
45
".
+).'3

$03'6
+6%(&

-&6
/
- "/&

)0/&
,JOHT
$SPTT

7
63

("
45 -"/&

#306()
+6%(

5)

"
8*--*" 453&&5

()
.
-"/&

(

7*$503
8*-- #2/33

*/
%08-*/
:630

55
.D&-
453&&5

/(



*".

3-
-"/&

&"

-&





."/4*0

#" #306()
.

%"
/

26
&-

3%
3/&55
-"

45 ".


-"

5
-"/&

&

3&&5 ,

45

&&
:/
/
-"/

3 & &
4

/
#":4 8
453

"

-"/&
"7

-"/ :4

45
1&5& -
& & 5

45

8"

3&
34





-"/ "5 &3 4 &
30

/
&

&
1&/
13&. 30
$308

&5
(0%&
 45
1&5& *
- " / && 3

4 5
34 , * 3*$)
- "% $-

45
45"/-&: 45 " &.
/ (

304&--

4 &/5



53 && 5

3
-"/& 45

'"

&&
$ 3 0 4
4 5 3

$&
5 0 3

45"/ 33

%
4

, &


-&:
&
" -- #ROSS#ITY

0"
& 4

5

'3"/$*4







4 5 3 1-


" 3 0 " %














4

&&5 7& 4UNNEL

3
-"/&
$ / /6

' 0 3 #
$ 3

)"1& 0 & &3




# ": 4 8 "5
" * (

"%





15

&5

'3"/$*4
- 3
&5

453&& " & / %

5 0h#3*&

0/
$-
-

45
# 0 6

/4

30
#63/&-

4 5 3 &




453&

-"/&

4 5 3&
/&

%


45
&5
8 00 %4

5 3 * # 6

& 5

1-

1" -. &3

-"
-" /&

3,

$"
:

&3

/

5& &

-"/&

5
8 33

-%
,*
5)0.40 5
1"-.

/*.30
53&&

4&"-&


45 -"/& ,& 46 &

8&





-*7&3 "7 4# & 6 &

5
10 0-


-"/ 3 & /
& 63

--


34
&


5
" 7

#&38*$, :
4

6&



45




4

-"/&
4 6 /&

&
-* 7& 31

)6
00 -



3 3 "

6
4)035&3 & :

03*"
& 5

-








4



&/

/

&
53 && 5 -"/&

)":%&/
-"/
) ")

&


% * 4

/

"7

(
3

7
"
,*/(4 .&

*/









45
3

"


4 5 3 &
53&&5

4633&:
45
& 80

#30 $&
:

"/







-*7&3
8 /

7*$5
3-



-"/
.40

-*55-&
100-

1-"
3*-&

&
)-
0

8/


45
%"3-&:

%"
8 .

4

"$
453& 3 $0
5)0

&5 #"

)"3%*&






4

D-
$ 3 0

& " 4 5 & 3 /

#635 %"3-&:
$!2,).'(5234

45
0 0/








.
1-"$&

453

$)"1-*/
9 )":%&/ ": 453&&5

00,&

45
&&5

$0
&3

'0 %4 &

,&--4 1- 3: %

5

" -*/ -"/

8
1- 3/0 3% ' 0 -"/& " (04#
*-

&4
8&
/%

-"
3YDNEY*EWISH &--

- "/ &
(04
4)&3#3
45

"$ -
4

-& #& -"/& &

8
&
%

"3 : % *

4
6

/&
&

5

-USEUM /%

-"
--
4
#0 /

"7


--0
"%

6
#

8 /&
1"-.

%*
#0 5




/LD'AOL /
-

8
--
3

-"
&4

&





(3&&/ 0/ "/ 40/




30
0

5



.ATIONAL
45 &
5

4 -&
'

45 1"3, /7 3&

&

(
45&1
3& !RT3CHOOL *&8 &5 5

-&

&

53

/&
(0

-" 8/
& ) &/
3

6- &5

3: -"
/

&

/&
# &

-"
-*

7
&&
5

45 63/ &8

0
5

3
-&*$)
55 6 -"

5

45

4

/& 5

#3
/
34

-&

&&

/&

5

%"
& *"
45
4

0
)

3&
6

7 0;
3:%&3

6/

53
"3%

$ARLINGHURST &5
*"

9' $3 &

"
)

."
45

#0
0 -" -"/
(

$%

4
3% #OURT(OUSE
."
3

.
-" 0/"
*/

&5
*$
45

0 $%
0

5":-03
/ -
&5
&

%
3-

45 $ 0/ &
3&

/
5

/

3 (-&/


453
45

426"3& "-

*$

$".1#
$" . 1
3&
"

&&5
45

8
" %

)&
%

& --
4 5 #

#"5&

"7&

7

45

45

0
$0
5

3&
%

#06

&1
#3
&5
#-00.'*&-

01
#& - -

/% " 3 :
#063,&
53&&

&5

-*55-&

&3
%&/)".

45
-*55-&

4
45

45

4 5 63 4
453&

53
5
"7&
' - *

3 &

5" 45

&&
5
&&5

:-
0
&IVE
&4

/6

5

03
."*%&/
-
/



4

#308/
453&&5



5
. &

8

45 7AYS
.D-"

&
&

$
-*5 #&3
$) *4) 0-

3&
$0 45

&
453

"

/

-*7
5-&

&5
1-
4 53

3 0
.

3
/ % &



45

4 *. & " %
6()-
&3
30
&

:
"/

4 # 3

10

&5
"
8&
&







$-"

03.0/%
4)035
& & 5

&--

/&
-

$-*'50/ 0

# &( (

45 5 .
"/

1-

0- 5

(

45

3&




4 -"



45
$308

-"

0-*7&
.


4 5

3&4&37



(

/"
1 &8

4
5

&

"/

45
30
$5
4
-*/

/&

7& %.
3 4

8"-,&3
3&

,*
41&

45
)0

0 45"''03%

)

)*--

4 413
4 5 3

+&4.0/ 1& */

%08

-"/-,&3

5
45

/"1*& 8& 45 (
%
5)

%
45
-"/ &-


13

)"//". 3
453 --

8-*/(
45

0
'3&

:
-" /&

&

'- &&5
-" (*1

45 %'03
'-&.*/(4
-"

0 45 /&
14


9
8"

&:
0%






-

45"''0
&
)

4 -"/&



&

' 0




4 3%
#&5

 " - # *0
4)"

)&&-
5

3 %
3 0 " %

/





&5
-*55-&
%0

3 & &

-"/

453

3&

45

& -&
453&&
40 6 5 )

5

4
%*&

5 0ADDINGTON ( )&
6/
#30

&&5

6ILLAGE
&



4 5

'*5; :0 8
30:

1- 35229 "-#*0/ 4 5 &&%0
"7& /

6/%&
3 80
0%


4



4 5

5

"7 &

/6& 3 &






4

"/&

(),,3 & 5
4 5

$)63$) #&-.0

1&33:
-
0h4)&"4

45
1-

/* $) 0-

3&


/40 /

&&5

*UNIPER
-"/&

/

8 : /

4&:.0
/ 4

0ADDINGTON
55
-"/&

(ALL
3 &
)*/40

63

4 5 3

'07&"69
'*5 4OWN(ALL

)6 5$ )*

& &

45

"%

;3 6ICTORIA
1-"

#"35-&
4 & -

0:
/&

-"/& 4

)65$

& 5

( 3
3 , &
3*$)"3%

%4

30

4 "ARRACKS
*3*4

$&

3&/
-"
3*$)"3

53
"7&

3& /

&&
&&

/:

#&//
&55 .D 5 +04&1)40/


53

1-
- " /&

70

&-)

45

'"//:

3&/
# 0 6

0/


4

$0--*/
%"

/:

1-

#& &

4

1-



4
"/%&3

//

45 &5 53&

45 "35
4
-" /&

5

&5
--

4 . 0 0
3



45
45

45&8

5
)"

3 &

"-&9

4 5

45

13 04 1& $5
34

4 5
-*55-&
,&/%"--

3

&

5 */


$0 -- */

45
-&:

&&5
8"-5

1 "
."

&8
%&

,&/%"--

3 , "3
45

$)"1."/

5
5 0 3

"/

-"/&

."3

1) 5


453
-"/& /


"35)63

4
5 3 & &

&-
$)"1."
&9

-"/&

45

-& 53
& 5

0"

14 &&
"-

*/
&/5
"

4 45 5
"3 53 3 &3
 3"
4 5 3 &

5) && 0
3&(
/

4

*/' 63 5


0


"
45 3%




3 * # 6

45
; "

4
%

$0 3& 53
%"7 &5
*&4
4
53&
6-5
0/
&&
5

-"

&5
-" &,*/

/&
$
-"/&

* / (

3

3%
/&
3"1&

- * / (
45

#6

% * 4 5

!USSIE

&45)&3
45 .00 3 &


1 "3 , 3TADIUM

0 8 -

%& /0##4
70

4 5 3 & &
% 0 8

/4 5 &OX3TUDIOS
0-*7*"

)*3 !USTRALIA
&%(&- /
45

&
4




%

5 /0## ,JQQBY

:
45

3 /

4
-"/&

"/&

.



1-
40

-BLF
% 3 * 7 &
/*$,

1"3,)"
40/
-

.
-"/
&
5

1"3,)"

(3
)

1"3,)" &(
03
/*$,

3 & &

.
453
4 0 6 5

&&5 :





"
" 4 5 &

1 "

7&
/6
4 0 6 5

.035 &
3

4
%3"

53&&
5
3 "
5

. 03 5

"-&9"/
-"/&

"$&

-" /&


4

3*%(
3*%(&
1-

&





&

453&
% &

&5
3*%(& 3YDNEY




-"
/& #RICKET

" 7 & /

$-&7 'ROUND

&-"

5

/%

4 53 &&

6 &

-*55-&
$
3 , &

-&7&-"/%

45
4 ."$ "35 )63

"7& /6&
$) &- 4& 5
:

"

45 3&

&5 3
& 3HOWRINGAT
# 0 6

&
/

5 4HE%NTERTAINMENT
45 "/ -&

7"6()"

1UARTER
1-

$) "3
-& 4

4
5
5)63-08


-"/& " # $


% & %
'

453 */(

"

&&5
."

413
3VTIDVUUFST

%
0 3 "5

-"/ )0/
3 )0 30"%

"
/ 4 5 & : / "

3"5
#BZ

&

&
3&(

."

"7
1 " 3 ,
#"35-&:

8
"%
30 $!2,).' *-

07"- -*
) 4 ( 3 & ".

"/
$ '56
& /
" -0
364)$655&34
0/).4

5
45

$&
&

0 "
$3

* /
0

0
#":
1"3,
44

,

3%

4
%
8 1 45
."




& & 5
/ &

"
3,4

3 0 (6 45

0$5"(0/

3%
*-' 3&
253(#544%23

. 0 /"

" 7 & /
0: &5

4 5 3
-&

45

"
7 ,/0 9

30"%
" ! 9
40 &/

048"-%
-"

65

"
6& /&

&

-" 5)

)

-"/

/6


" ,/09

- * / (

6

&

/&
6
. 0
7& 3&

40

45
/6

&
&5

7&
$001& &

/&

3




4 4)

"
53&&5 03
&

8 5

4

3& &5
% " 3
5
6

3& % % : /

/

-"/&

,-:/

# " :
453 & &5

-"/&
4 ."
/

"%

-%

55"

45
&"
0 )0-5
(0 -"/&

#300
6 45
&

) 0 -5

(6.53&&
0$




45
5
7

3&&5
3 0

)& /3 *&
406
"

8&*("--
8)*5&
$*5:
)
5)

410354
)
5&//*4
$06354 45 3& &
5
& "% )&" %
3 %

)

.
(306/%
65

"/
8
/&8
"- 30"
40

/*
,& %

/(
3

"7

3
&/

/&8

%

"7&

6&
&

.D


45

03
69

-&

"
"-."

/
&EHFDMJGG
0

.
"-

45
%$'%#,)&& 
7*

3&
&/

453&
& 5

& 5



"35)6
1&

45

&4 3


3 8
45

)&

#0 "7&
(-

0 "

-*/$ -

3#
(00%)0

&%
$".#

%
&3
$

-"
5
3

5
"

1
8 07"-

0-/

4
$".#

-" 40/
(3&"
.

( &
#&

/&

&3

& 5

0$
-&

3 &

+".&4
&

5
5)0

)" 4 5
3*%(&

)0%%-&
0

$
$"4$
45



3

"
-"/&

-"/&%&

-*


3 5

2 6 "1 -
3*%(

45

-"/& /
/ .0

# &
.1

3/&

)*() -
50

3& & "

5

'
"
53&&

'
&5 45
%& /
30:-4

45





45

4*4 "/&

. # *



536.1&3

5
&

4

&

-
/
/

5&
5)0
-"
-&

0




4

1"3,
45

34






-"/
3&&5

:-
(

(6 3/ &3
3/
30

45

- "/ &

"%&

45
*-

&


&$

&

30
(63/ 6


$

&3






45
-

453& 5
$"4$

$*

&5
/&

)
/& /

"%
-" )*5&

46

$&

-" "

4 &
5

6%

3&&
''

0 -, 6 3
8

453
-,
45

&
40

-"/&

304&
-

5
-" / -,

3& ) "


/& -,

45 )
5

& /
&
'0
-" '0

"
/03'0

% 3
45

.0/
%#
5

'

3 -

/03
46

30
3

"
,

(
453&&

&&5
0

)
&5
0-

6( 3 ) /
9'

5

"7
''

3&

)5 " " " %

46
%6

7 3
45

0

/ 3 &




3 &5

-"/ *4 53&
&

" %

&
45
(





4
)

&:

3
&5

0!$$).'4/. 8
"







"8/
'6 --

"#

*



" -
53& 
6/

$"4$"%&

/
3 0

7 7 4
)01 &50 6/
6/*0 /

45 3& &5


*;

& 5
5 3& & 5

%
-"/&

&-

8 &


/ 3
)0 1& 50

-" /&

&
&350
54

* 4

4

45

0
6 &
(307&
"7&/6&

/ 5
#&//&5

5 &
5" 3 "

% 3 3
1 4




&
/


4

4

" 0
&

4 -
26 3&&

/

% 3
"
%
4 5# & 4

4 5 3

1" %% */ 5
"3 5
45
*0

( %

/ "
53&&

3:

4 5 3&
5

50 3
/

*

&
&

"4
0
&5

6
1-

/ /
&
&&5
&

%6 )5

3
'0

"
(

3

42 -#&3 %- -"/ 0/

&

5
5
5

45

) 0
:

5
&5

&

- 5
3& 5

6" 5
&:

4

&

0

45 #&3

3&

&

45 "
&

&5

/

3

3& &
%

/

45 3
"-

- %

4

5
"

&5
5 & 0 /


.

*/ ( 5
4
30

*''
3

1
3
8 & --
41*$&3
"

6 "

&

4 8

&
-*

+ &

%

$)*4



/

/ % - &
*-

&&

-

%
5

*/ " 5
"/&
&

&$
8

&
6

&
0 3

3/&

-
"$

453&&

7 * 7*$
8*$
- "

0 ( /
&
2

$
0

3 5 04#0
1-

50 "
0$

$5 0 &
9
(
-

8 -
45

3
,
-"

0
:

3 * *" & /
5 )

' 0 %

&%
"

5

" 7* 0 0
0


5

"
.0/

-

"/ -4 /
/&

45 %


&"/

3 &
*" 5

3&

&&5 3&&

%



4 5
)

&5 &- 4
453

5)


/& *"

*;" 5 3&--
5

'03
45 37*&

-" %0/

4

.03
3

3
"/&
&

1- #&5
$63

41*$

& 0/

"
&5

-
,*-.
&
#

0ADDINGTON
("

"$ )

-&

& 8&-%/& (

0
3&

"-50
"

*1

& 5 &3*/
$"
.D

3
&

"AZAAR -" 1*$,

5 3
&5 #
3& .

-*

1
5

&3








/& *"



45 8$0

4


4

*/45
/


45
&

5
- "" / /

5
7//,,!(2!

3 3&&
&
(&

/&

4 &

45
&5 )

:
03

& 5



4

5 &
3& 35

&&/


45
(

&3



4&

*5

5
/&-

3
45 80

8) & 26
(&

-"/
0

#3
&&5

&
3

& -"
8"*.
5

5
4

3&&
3

"7&/

5*7 / -"/&

+&
&/

&
4 5 ,&3
40/

(03%0/


-"
3&&

4)


%

.0/$6
8
5

5 1&"
8


453

36
453
0 -*
4 5

0

-"/&
& 5
-"/&
"5

%

&"

6&

3 &
/

30"



- "
4

/&
0

&

)"-- &

45&8"3 &&5
5

4 5

-"/

5



45 453

4&:

&

3

+&3



4

#& /5

*5)



5

/
4

.0/

%03

&&5

4.

&

45&8"3
/

5 4&
0/

& &
4

$) .&-30 .035/&
8 0 0&

1-"$&
5

1- 63$ 6
)"6
$63

-"/& 2 -"
"7
3

-& (&03(& "$ ) &5

7* $

45 3 &
%8:

*/
&
5
&

45& -"/& & & 5 /

%4

4
&

5 3 +0 )
&3



50 3

3 &3

4 &5







5

45


53&
453 6- & 4




4
&3

&&5

.0 . &5 --*4
*"

+ " 453& 8"

453

-"

03 +0 ) /




45 #08
%&/
&5

3&

-"/
"7 & / 6 &

&
45
$&/5&//*"-


1"3, &&5
&&5

/&

30"% 453
426"3&
&

0ADDINGTON --*
4

10" 8"
5& 'ATES 3%
' 0
-"/&

1 " 3 , & 4

09
1
0

%
"
5

"
&

&

&3
&

30
/

&OX3TUDIOS 3#
0 " %

/
3

"%
%
"

'6

!USTRALIA

"

"

3

-

6 &

.
#3 00 & "7&/


0

0
"

. *5 6&

% 3
%

$)

" 7 & /
3

&--

3

4 5 &
* 7 "ELVEDERE
* 7

3&
3

&5
-

% 3
,

$

&


&

" !MPHITHEATRE
* "
#

0

3
3

3
0
6

* /
/

( 5 0 /

'

,


$

%
/

)"

3 0 "
&

:03,

/
5

1-
*-
/

$ & / 5 & / / * " -

"

: 0 3

&4


50
&

&
-
$

-"/
$ )

+ " .
%

1 " 3 ,
0
3
*7

:03,
-
&

45

%3
&EDERATION
% (3
"/
%
& 0AVILION '
246 S Y D N E Y S T R E E T F I N D E R

Street Finder Index

Bulletin Place 1 B3 Christie Street 3 B4
A Bayview Street
(Pyrmont) 3 B1 Bulwara Road 3 B2 Church Place 6 D4
Abercrombie Street 3 C5 Beare Park 2 F5 Bunn Lane 3 C2 Church Street 5 A3
Ada Place 3 B2 Beattie Lane 4 E5 Bunn Street 3 C2 Circular Quay East 1 C3
Albert Square 6 D3 Beauchamp Lane 4 F5 Burdekin Lane 5 A4 City Road 3 B5
Albert Street Begg Lane 5 C3 Burlinson Street 3 C4 Clapton Place 5 B1
(Edgecliff) 6 F2 Bellevue Lane Burnell Place 5 A1 Clare Street 5 A3
Albert Street (Glebe) 3 B3 Burrahore Lane 5 A1 Clarence Street 1 A4
(Paddington) 6 D3 Bellevue Lane Burton Street continues 4 E1
Albert Street (Surry Hills) 4 F5 (Darlinghurst) 5 A2 Clarke Street 4 F3
(Sydney) 1 C3 Bellevue Street Burton Street (Glebe) 3 A3 Clement Street 5 C1
Alberta Street 4 F4 (Glebe) 3 B3 Busby Lane 5 A1 Cleveland Street 5 A5
Albion Avenue 5 A3 Bellevue Street Clifton Reserve 5 A3
Albion Place
Albion Street
4 E3
4 F5
(Surry Hills)
Belmore Lane
4 F5
4 F5
C Colbourne Avenue 3 A4
Cadman’s Cottage 1 B2 College Street 1 C5
continues 5 A3 Belmore Park 4 E4 continues 4 F3
Cahill Expressway 1 B3
Albion Way 4 F5 Belmore Place 5 C3 Collins Lane 5 A4
Caldwell Street 5 B1
Alexander Street Belmore Street 4 F5 Collins Street 5 A4
Caledonia Lane 6 E4
(Paddington) 5 C4 Bennett Place 5 A4 Comber Street 5 B3
Caledonia Street 6 D4
Alexander Street Bennett Street 5 A4 Commonwealth
Cambridge Lane 6 D2
(Surry Hills) 5 A4 Bennetts Grove Street 4 F5
Cambridge Street 6 D2
Alexandra Lane 5 A5 Avenue 6 D3 Community Park 3 C1
Cameron Street 6 E2
Alfred Street 1 B3 Bent Street Conservatorium of
Campbell Avenue 5 B2
Allen Street 3 C3 (Paddington) 6 D4 Music 1 C3
Campbell Lane 3 A4
Alma Street 6 D2 Bent Street (Sydney) 1 B3 Conservatorium
Campbell Street
Alton Street 6 F4 continues 4 F1 Road 1 C3
(Glebe) 3 A4
Amos Lane 5 C1 Berwick Lane 5 A1 Convention and
Campbell Street
Angel Place 1 B4, 4 E1 Bethel Lane 5 B3 Exhibition Centre 3 C3
(Haymarket) 4 E4
Ann Street 4 F5 Bijou Lane 4 D5 Cook Park 1 C5
Campbell Street
Anzac Parade 5 B4 Billyard Avenue 2 F4 continues 4 F2
(Surry Hills) 5 A2
Argyle Centre 1 B2 Birtley Place 2 F5 Cook Road 6 D5
Campbell’s
Argyle Place 1 A2 Blackburn Street 4 E4 Cooper Lane 4 F5
Storehouses 1 B2
Argyle Street 1 A2 Blackwattle Lane 3 C4 Cooper Street
Capitol Theatre 4 E4
Arnold Place 5 A2 Bland Street 2 D5 (Double Bay) 6 F1
Cardigan Street 3 A4
Art Gallery of New Bligh Street 1 B4 Cooper Street
Carrington Drive 6 E5
South Wales 2 D5 continues 4 F1
Carrington Street 1 A4 (Paddington) 5 C2
Art Gallery Road 1 C5 Bond Street 1 B3
continues 4 E1 Cooper Street
Arthur Lane 5 A4 Boomerang Street 1 C5
Cascade Lane 6 D2 (Surry Hills) 4 E5
Arthur Street continues 4 F2
Cascade Street 6 D3 Corben Street 4 F5
(Edgecliff) 6 E2 Bossley Terrace 2 D5
Castlereagh Street 1 B5 Corfu Street 5 A1
Arthur Street Boundary Lane 5 B2
continues 4 E5 Coulton Lane 5 A4
(Surry Hills) 5 A4 & 5 C2
Cathedral Road 1 C5 Cow Lane 5 B2
Arundel Street 3 A5 Boundary Street 5 B2
continues 4 F2 Cowper Lane 3 B4
Ash Street 1 B4, 4 E1 Bourke Street 5 A5
Cathedral Street 2 D5 Cowper Street 3 B5
Ashton Lane 6 D3 Bowden Street 6 F4
Catherine Street 3 A5 Cowper Wharf
Australian Broadcasting Bowes Avenue 6 E2
Cecil Lane 6 E3 Roadway 2 D5
Corporation 4 D4 Bowman Street 3 A1
Cecil Street 6 E3 Craigend Street 5 B1
Bradfield Highway 1 B1
Australian Museum 4 F3 Centennial Lane 6 D5 Crane Place 1 B3
Bradley Lane 2 F5
Avon Street 3 A3 Centennial Park 6 E5 Crick Avenue 2 E5
Bridge Lane (Glebe) 3 A3
Centennial Square 6 E4 Cross Lane 2 D5
Bridge Lane
B (Sydney) 1 B3 Central Railway Cross Street
Bank Street 3 A1 Station 4 E5 (Pyrmont) 3 B1
Bridge Road (Glebe) 3 A4
Barcom Avenue 5 B2 Bridge Street 1 B3 Central Street 4 E3 Cross Street
Barlow Street 4 E4 Brisbane Street 4 F4 Centre for Contem- (Double Bay) 6 F1
Barncleuth Lane 5 C1 Britannia Lane 6 E4 porary Craft 1 B2 Crown Lane 5 A1
Barncleuth Broadway 3 C5 Challis Avenue 2 E4 Crown Street
Square 5 C1 Brodie Street 5 C3 Chalmers Street 4 E5 (Glebe) 3 B5
Barnett Lane 5 A1 Brooklyn Lane 6 F2 Chapel Street 5 A1 Crown Street
Baroda Street 2 F5 Broome Avenue 6 F5 Chaplin Street 5 B2 (Woolloomooloo) 2 D5
Barrack Lane 1 A4 Brougham Lane Chapman Lane 5 A4 continues (Surry
continues 4 E1 (Glebe) 3 A4 Chapman Street 5 A4 Hills) 5 A3
Barrack Street 1 A4 Brougham Lane Charles Street Cumberland Street 1 A3
continues 4 E1 (Potts Point) 5 B1 (Surry Hills) 5 A5 Curtin Place 1 B4
Bartlett Lane 5 B3 Brougham Street 2 E5 Charles Street continues 4 E1
Bates Avenue 5 C3 continues 5 B1 (Woolloomooloo) 2 D5 Customs House 1 B3
Bathurst Street 4 D3 Broughton Lane 3 B4 Charlotte Lane 4 F3
Batman Lane 4 F5 Broughton Street Chelsea Street 5 A5 D
Bay Lane 3 C4 (Glebe) 3 A4 Chifley Square 1 B4 Dalgety Road 1 A2
Bay Street Broughton Street continues 4 F1 Dalley Street 1 B3
(Double Bay) 6 F2 (Paddington) 6 D3 Chinatown 4 D4 Darghan Lane 3 B3
Bay Street (Glebe) 3 B4 Brown Lane 5 C2 Chinese Garden 4 D3 Darghan Street 3 A3
Bayswater Road 5 B1 Brown Street 5 C3 Chisholm Street 5 A3 Darley Place 5 B2
Bayview Street Browns Place 5 C2 Chiswick Lane 6 F3 Darley Street 5 B2
(Glebe) 3 A4 Buckland Street 3 C5 Christie Lane 3 B4 Darling Drive 3 C2
 S Y D N E Y S T R E E T F I N D E R 247

Darling Harbour
Passenger 1 A4
F Goulburn Street
continues
4 D4
5 A2
Holdsworth Street
Holt Street
6 E3

Factory Street 4 D4
Terminal & 4D1 Government House 1 C2 (Double Bay) 6 F2
Fanny Place 5 A4
Darling Island Road 3 C1 Grafton Lane 3 C5 Holt Street
Farrell Avenue 5 B1
Darling Lane 3 A4 Grafton Street 3 C5 (Surry Hills) 4 F5
Faucett Lane 5 A1
Darling Point Road 6 E1 Grand Drive 6 E5 Hopetoun Lane 6 D3
Ferry Lane 3 A3
Darling Street 3 A4 Grantham Street 2 E4 Hopetoun Street 6 D3
Darlinghurst Court Ferry Road 3 A3
Great Synagogue 1 B5 Hopewell Lane 5 B3
House 5 A2 Fig Street 3 B3 Great Thorne Street 6 E2 Hopewell Street 5 B3
Darlinghurst Road 5 A2 Fitzroy Place 5 A3 Greek Street 3 B5 Hoskin Place 1 B4
Davies Street 5 A4 Fitzroy Street 4 F5 Green Park 5 B2 continues 4 E1
Davoren Lane 5 A4 continues 5 A3 Greenknowe Avenue 2 E5
Five Ways 5 C3 Hospital Road 1 C5
Dawes Point Park 1 B1 Greenoaks Avenue 6 E1 continues 4 F2
Day Street 4 D3 Flemings Lane 5 A3 Greens Road 5 B3
Flinders Street 5 A3 Hourigan Lane 2 E5
De Mestre Place 1 B4 Gregory Avenue 5 B5 Hughes Lane 2 E5
continues 4 E1 Floods Lane 5 A3 Gresham Street 1 B3
Foley Street 5 A2 Hughes Place 2 E5
Denham Street 5 A3 Griffin Street 4 F5 Hughes Street
Forbes Street 2 E5
Denman Lane 3 B4 Griffiths Street 2 D5
(Darlinghurst) 5 A2 Hunt Street 4 F4
Derby Place 3 B5 Grose Street 3 B5
Forbes Street Hunter Street 1 B4
Derwent Lane 3 A5 Grosvenor Street 1 A3
(Paddington) 6 E3 continues 4 E1
Derwent Street 3 A5 Guilfoyle Avenue 6 F1
Foreshore Road 3 B1 Hutchinson Lane 5 A3
Devonshire Street 5 A4 Gumtree Lane 6 F2
Forsyth Lane 3 A3 Hutchinson Street 5 A3
Dillon Lane 5 C2 Gurner Lane 6 D2
Forsyth Street 3 A3 Hyde Park 4 F2
Dillon Street 5 C2 Gurner Street 6 D3
Fort Denison 2 E1 Hyde Park Barracks 1 C5
Dixon Street 4 D3
Domain, The 1 C4 Forth Street
Foster Street
6 F4
4 E4
H I
Dorhauer Lane 6 E4 Hackett Street 3 C4
Douglass Lane 4 E3 Foveaux Street 4 E5 Ice Street 5 B2
Haig Avenue 1 C5
Dowling Street 2 D5 continues 5 A3 Iris Street 5 B4
continues 4 F2
continues 5 B1 Fox Studios 6 D5 Haig Lane 1 C5 Ithaca Road 2 F5
Downshire Street 1 A2 Francis Lane 5 A1 Halls Lane 6 E4
Driver Avenue 5 B4 Francis Street Hamilton Drive 6 E5 J
Druitt Lane 4 D3 (Darlinghurst) 4 F3 Hampden Street 6 D2 James Lane
Druitt Place 1 A5 Francis Street Hands Lane 4 F4 (Darling Harbour) 4 D3
continues 4 D2 (Glebe) 3 B5 Hannam Street 5 A3 James Lane
Druitt Street 1 A5 continues 5 A1 Harbour Street 4 D3 (Paddington) 6 D2
continues 5 E2 Franklyn Street 3 B5 Harbourside Festival James Street
Dudley Street 6 D3 Fullerton Street 6 F3 Marketplace 1 C2 (Darling Harbour) 4 D3
Duxford Street 6 D3 Furber Lane 6 D5 Hardie Street 5 B2 James Street
Dwyer Lane 6 E4 Furber Road 6 D5 Hargrave Lane (Woollahra) 6 E4
Dwyer Street 4 D5 (Darlinghurst) 4 F3 Jamison Street 1 A3
G Hargrave Lane Jenkins Street 1 A3
E Garran Lane 3 A3 (Paddington) 6 D3 Jersey Road 6 D4
Eagar Lane 4 E3 Garrison Church 1 A2 Hargrave Street 6 D3 Jesmond Street 5 A3
Earl Place 5 B1 George Lane 6 D4 Harmer Street 2 D5 John Street
Earl Street 2 E5 George Street Harnett Street 2 E5 (Pyrmont) 3 B1
continues 5 B1 (Paddington) 6 D4 Harrington Street 1 B3 John Street
Eastern Distributor 5 A2 George Street Harris Street (Woollahra) 6 E4
Ebenezer Lane 3 B5 (Sydney) 1 B5 (Paddington) 6 E3 Jones Bay Road 3 B1
Ebenezer Place 3 B5 continues 4 E4 Harris Street Jones Lane 3 C3
Eddy Avenue 4 E5 Gipps Street (Pyrmont) 3 B1 Jones Street 3 A1
Edgecliff Road 6 F2 (Paddington) 5 B3 Harris Street Motor Josephson Street 5 B4
Edgely Street 5 A5 Gipps Street Museum 3 C3 Judge Lane 5 B1
Edward Lane 3 C2 (Pyrmont) 3 B2 Harwood Lane 3 C2 Judge Street 5 B1
Edward Street 3 C2 Glebe Island Bridge 3 A2 Harwood Street 3 C2 Junction Lane 2 D5
Egan Place 5 A1 Glebe Lane 3 A4 Hay Street 4 D4
Juniper Hall 5 C3
El Alamein Fountain 2 E5 Glebe Point Road 3 A4 Hayden Lane 5 B2
Justice and Police
Elfred Street 5 C3 Glebe Street Hayden Place 5 B2
Museum 1 C3
Elger Street 3 B4 (Edgecliff) 6 E2 Heeley Lane 5 C3
Elizabeth Bay House 2 F5 Glebe Street Heeley Street 5 C3
Elizabeth Bay Road 2 F5 (Glebe) 3 A4 Henrietta Street 6 F2
K
Elizabeth Place 6 D4 Glen Street 5 C2 Henry Avenue 3 C3 Keegan Avenue 3 A4
Elizabeth Street Glenmore Road 5 B3 Henson Lane 3 C4 Kellett Street 5 B1
(Paddington) 6 D4 Glenview Lane 5 C2 Herbert Road 6 E2 Kells Lane 5 A2
Elizabeth Street Glenview Street 5 C2 Herbert Street 3 B1 Kelly Street 3 C5
(Sydney) 1 B5 Gloucester Street 1 B2 Hercules Street 4 F5 Kendall Lane 5 A4
continues 4 E5 Goderich Lane 5 B1 Hero of Waterloo 1 A2 Kendall Street 5 A4
Empire Lane 1 B4 Goldman Lane 6 F1 Hickson Road 1 A2 Kennedy Street 5 A1
continues 4 E1 Goodchap Street 4 F4 High Lane 1 A2 Kensington Street 4 D5
Entertainment Centre 4 D4 Goold Street 4 D5 High Street Kent Street 1 A2
Erskine Street 1 A4 Gordon Lane 6 D4 (Edgecliff) 6 E2 continues 4 D1
continues 4 D1 Gordon Street 6 D4 High Street Kettle Lane 3 C5
Esplanade 2 F5 Gosbell Lane 5 C2 (Millers Point) 1 A2 Kidman Lane 5 B3
Essex Street 1 A3 Gosbell Street 5 C2 Hill Street 5 A3 Kilminster Lane 6 F4
Esther Street 5 A4 Gottenham Lane 3 A4 HJ Foley Rest Park 3 A4 Kimber Lane 4 D4
Evans Road 2 F5 Gottenham Street 3 A4 Hoddle Street 6 D2 King Street 1 A4
Experiment Street 3 C2 Goulburn Lane 4 F4 Holdsworth Avenue 2 F5 continues 4 D1
248 S Y D N E Y S T R E E T F I N D E R

Kings Cross Road 5 B1 McGarvie Street 6 D4 Nesbitt Street 2 E5 Parramatta Road 3 A5

Kings Lane 5 A2 McKee Street 3 C4 New Beach Road 6 D1 Paternoster Row 3 B2
Kippax Street 4 E5 Mackey Street 4 F5 New McLean Street 6 E2 Peaker Lane 6 E4
Kirk Street 3 C3 McLachlan Avenue 5 C2 New South Head Pelican Street 4 F4
Kirketon Road 5 B1 McLaughlan Place 5 C3 Road 6 D1 Pennys Lane 5 B1
Knox Lane 6 F1 Macleay Street 2 E5 Newcombe Street 6 D4 Perry Lane 5 C3
Knox Street Macquarie Place 1 B3 Nichols Street 5 A3 Phelps Street 5 A4
(Chippendale) 3 C5 Macquarie Street 1 C4 Nicholson Street 2 D5 Phillip Lane 1 C4
Knox Street continues 4 F1 Nickson Lane 5 A5 Phillip Park 1 C5
(Double Bay) 6 F1 Maiden Lane 5 A3 Nickson Street 5 A5 continues 4 F2
Manning Road 6 F2 Nimrod Street 5 B1 Phillip Street (Glebe) 3 B4
L Manning Street
Mansion Lane
2 E5
5 C1
Nithsdale Street 4 F4 Phillip Street
(Sydney) 1 B4
Lacrozia Lane 5 B2 Nobbs Lane 5 A4
Marathon Lane 6 E1 Nobbs Street 5 A4 continues 4 F1
Lands Department
Marathon Road 6 E1 Norfolk Lane 6 D3 Pickering Lane 6 F4
Building 1 B3
Marble Bar 1 B5 Pier Street 4 D4
Lang Park 1 A3 Norfolk Street 6 D3
Margaret Street 1 A4 Pitt Street 1 B5
Lang Road 6 D5 Norman Street 4 F4
continues 4 D1 continues 4 E4
Lang Street 1 A3 Norton Street
Market Row 1 A5 Plunkett Street 2 D5
Lawson Lane 6 D2 (Glebe) 3 A4
continues 4 E2 Poate Lane 6 D5
Lawson Street 5 C2 Norton Street
Market Street 1 A5 Poate Road 6 D5
Lee Street 4 D5 (Surry Hills) 4 F5
continues 4 D2 Point Piper Lane 6 E4
Lees Court 1 B4 Marlborough Lane 3 A4
continues 4 E1 Marlborough Street 3 A4 O Poplar Street
Pottinger Street
4 F4
1 A2
Leichhardt Street 5 B2 Marshall Street 5 A4 O’Briens Lane 5 A1
Powerhouse
Leinster Street 5 C4 Martin Place 1 B4 O’Connell Street 1 B4
Museum 4 D4
Lincoln Court 2 D4 continues 4 E1 continues 4 E1
Premier Lane 5 B1
Lincoln Place 6 F2 Martin Street 5 C4 O’Loughlin Street 4 E5
Prince Albert Road 1 C5
Lindsay Lane 5 C2 Mary Ann Street 3 C5 O’Sheas Lane 5 A3
continues 4 F2
Little Albion Street 4 F5 Mary Lane 4 F5 Oatley Road 5 C4
Pring Street 2 E5
Little Bloomfield Mary Place 5 B3 Observatory Park 1 A2
Prospect Street
Street 5 A2 Mary Street 4 E5 Ocean Avenue 6 F2
(Paddington) 5 B3
Little Bourke Street 5 A2 Melrose Lane 6 D4 Ocean Street 6 E2
Prospect Street
Little Cleveland Merchants’ House 1 B2 Octagon Road 6 E1
(Surry Hills) 5 A4
Street 5 A5 Mill Street 3 B1 Olive Street 5 C3
Pyrmont Bay Park 3 C1
Little Comber Street 5 B3 Miller Lane 3 B2 Olivia Lane 5 A4
Pyrmont Bridge 1 A5
Little Dowling Street 5 A3 Miller Street 3 B2 Omnibus Lane 4 D4
continues 4 D2
Little Hay Street 4 D4 Mitchell Lane East 3 B4 Old Gaol,
Pyrmont Bridge
Little Mount Street 3 B2 Mitchell Lane West 3 B4 Darlinghurst 5 A2
Road 3 B2
Little Oxford Street 5 A2 Mitchell Street Onslow Avenue 2 F5 Pyrmont Street 3 B1
Little Regent Street 4 D5 (Centennial Park) 6 D5 Onslow Place 2 F5
Mitchell Street
Little Riley Street
Little Stewart Street
4 F5
5 C4 (Glebe) 3 A5
Ormond Street
Orwell Lane
5 C3
2 E5
Q
Mona Lane 6 D1 Quambi Place 6 F2
Little Surrey Street 5 B2 Orwell Street 2 E5
Mona Road 6 E1 Quarry Lane (Glebe) 3 A3
Liverpool Lane 5 A1 Osborne Lane 6 F4
Moncur Lane 6 E4 Quarry Lane
Liverpool Street 4 E3 Oswald Street 6 D1
Moncur Street 6 E4 (Ultimo) 3 C3
continues Overseas Passenger
Moore Park 5 A4 Quarry Street
(Darlinghurst) 5 A1 Terminal 1 B2 (Paddington) 6 E3
Liverpool Street Moore Park Road 5 B4 Owen Lane 3 C5
Moorgate Street 3 C5 Quarry Street
(Paddington) 5 C3 Owen Street 3 C5 (Ultimo) 3 C4
Loch Avenue 6 F5 Morrell Street 6 E4 Oxford Square 4 F4
Mort Lane 5 A5 Quay Street 4 D4
Lodge Street 3 A5 Oxford Street 4 F3 Queen Road 6 D4
Mort Street 5 A5
Loftus Lane 1 B3 continues 5 A2 Queen Street
Morton Lane 6 F4
Loftus Road 6 E1 (Glebe) 3 B4
Mount Street 3 B1
Loftus Street 1 B3
Mount Vernon Lane 3 A5
P Queen Street
Lombard Lane 3 A4 Paddington Bazaar 3 C5 (Woollahra) 6 E4
Mount Vernon Street 3 A5
Lombard Street 3 A4 Paddington Lane 6 D3 Queen Victoria
Mountain Lane 3 C5
Lower Avon Street 3 A3 Paddington Street 6 D3 Building 1 B5
Mountain Street 3 C5
Lower Fort Street 1 A2 Paddington Town Queens Avenue 5 C1
Mrs Macquaries
Lyndhurst Street 3 A4 Hall 5 C3 Queens Square 1 C5
Chair 2 E2
Lyons Lane 4 F3 Mrs Macquaries Paddington Village 5 C3
Road 2 D4 Paddy’s Market 4 D4 R
M Murray Street 3 C2 Palmer Lane 5 A1 Rae Place 2 E5
Macarthur Avenue 5 B5 Museum of Palmer Street 2 D5 Railway Square 4 D5
Macarthur Street 3 C4 Contemporary Art 1 B2 continues 5 A2 Railway Street 3 A4
Macdonald Lane Museum of Sydney 1 B3 Palmerston Avenue 3 A4 Rainford Street 5 A4
(Paddington) 5 C2 Parbury Lane 3 C4 Randle Lane 4 E5
McDonald Lane N Park Lane 3 B4 Randle Street 4 E5
(Potts Point) 2 E4 Napier Street 5 B3 Park Street 4 E2 Raper Street 5 A4
Macdonald Street Napoleon Street 1 A3 Parker Lane 4 E4 Rawson Lane 4 E5
(Paddington) 5 B2 National Maritime Parker Street 4 E4 Rawson Place 4 E4
McDonald Street Museum 3 C2 Parkes Drive 6 E5 Reddy Street 6 D1
(Potts Point) 2 E4 National Trust Parkham Lane 5 A4 Regent Street
McElhone Place 5 A4 Centre 1 A3 Parkham Place 5 A5 (Chippendale) 4 D5
McElhone Street 2 E5 Neild Avenue 5 C2 Parkham Street 5 A5 Regent Street
continues 5 B1 Nelson Lane 6 F4 Parliament House 1 C4 (Paddington) 5 C4
 S Y D N E Y S T R E E T F I N D E R 249

Reiby Place 1 B3 Slip Street 1 A5, 4 D2 Tara Street 6 F3 Wattle Crescent 3 B3

Renny Lane 5 C4 Smail Lane 3 C5 Taylor Square 5 A2 Wattle Lane 3 C4
Renny Street 5 C4 Smail Street 3 C5 Taylor Street (Glebe) 3 A3 Wattle Place 3 C5
Reservoir Street 4 E4 Smith Street Taylor Street Wattle Street 3 B3
Richards Avenue 5 A4 (Surry Hills) 4 F5 (Paddington) 6 E4 Ways Terrace 3 B1
Richards Lane 5 A4 Smith Street Taylor Street Weedon Avenue 5 C3
Ridge Lane 5 A5 (Woollahra) 6 E4 (Surry Hills) 5 A3 Weldon Lane 6 F4
Ridge Place 5 A5 Sophia Lane 4 F5 Terry Street 4 E5 Wellington Street 6 F3
Ridge Street 5 A5 Sophia Street 4 E5 Tewkesbury Avenue 5 B1 Wemyss Lane 4 F4
Riley Street 1 C5 Soudan Lane 6 E3 Thomas Lane 4 D4 Wentworth Avenue 4 F4
continues 5 A2 South Avenue 6 F1 Thomas Street 3 C5 Wentworth Park 3 B3
Rockwall Crescent 2 E5 South Dowling Street 5 A5 Thomson Lane 5 A1 Wentworth Park
Rockwall Lane 2 E5 South Lane 6 F1 Thomson Street 5 A2 Road 3 B3
Rodens Lane 1 A2 South Street 6 D2 Thorne Street 6 E2 Wentworth Street
Rosebank Street 3 A4 Spence Lane 5 A1 Thurlow Lane 5 A5 (Glebe) 3 B4
Rosella Lane 5 A1 Spicer Street 6 E3 Tivoli Street 6 D4 Wentworth Street
Rosemont Avenue 6 F3 Spring Street Towns Place 1 A2 (Paddington) 6 D4
Roslyn Gardens 2 F5 (Double Bay) 6 F1 Trelawney Street 6 F3 West Avenue 5 B2
continues 5 C1 Spring Street Trinity Avenue 1 A2 West Lane 5 B2
Roslyn Lane 5 C1 (Paddington) 5 B3 Trumper Park 6 E2 West Street 5 B3
Roslyn Street 5 C1 Springfield Avenue 2 E5 Tumbalong Park 4 D3 Westend Lane 3 C5
Rowe Lane 5 C3 Stafford Lane 5 C3 Turner Lane 2 D5 Western Distributor 1 A4
Rowe Street 1 B4 Stafford Street 5 C3 Tusculum Lane 2 E5 continues 4 D1
continues 4 E1 Stanley Lane 5 A1 Tusculum Street 2E5 Westin Hotel 1 B4
Royal Agricultural Stanley Street Westmoreland Lane 3 A5
Society (RAS)
Showground 5 C5
(Darlinghurst)
Stanley Street
5 A1 U Westmoreland Street 3 A5
Westpac Museum 1 B2
Ulster Street 6 D4
Royal Botanic (Redfern) 5 A5 Ultimo Road 4 D4 Wharf Theatre 1 A1
Gardens 1 C3 State Library of NSW 1 C4 Wheat Road 1 A5
Underwood Street
Roylston Lane 6 D2 State Theatre 1 B5 continues 4 D2
(Paddington) 5 C3
Rush Street 6 E4 Stephen Lane 5 C2 Whelan Lane 6 E4
Underwood Street
Rushcutters Bay Park 6 D1 Stephen Street 5 C2 White Lane 6 D3
(Sydney) 1 B3
Ryder Street 5 A2 Stewart Place 6 D4 Whitlam Square 4 F3
Union Lane
Stewart Street 5 C4 William Henry Street 3 C4
(Paddington) 6 D3
S Steyna Park 6 F1
Union Lane
William Lane 5 A1
Sailors’ Home 1 B2 Stirling Lane 3 B4 William Street
(Pyrmont) 3 C2
St Andrew’s Stirling Street 3 B4 (Darlinghurst) 4 F3
Union Street
Cathedral 4 E3 Strand Arcade 1 B5 continues 5 A1
(Paddington) 6 D3
St Barnabas Street 3 C5 Stream Street 5 A1 William Street
Union Street
St James’ Church 1 B5 Sturt Street 5 A2 (Double Bay) 6 F1
(Pyrmont) 3 B2
St James Road 1 B5 Suffolk Street 6 D3 William Street
University Avenue 3 B5
continues 4 F2 Surrey Lane 5 B1 (Paddington) 6 D3
University Place 3 A5
St James Road 6 F5 Surrey Street 5 B1 Wilmot Street 4 E3
University of Sydney 3 A5
St Johns Road 3 A5 Susannah Place 1 B2 Wilson Street 2 D5
Upper Fig Street 3 C3
St Marks Road 6 E1 Sussex Lane 1 A4, 4 D1 Windmill Street 1 A2
Upper Fort Street 1 A2
St Mary’s Cathedral 1 C5 Sussex Street 1 A3, 4 D1 Windsor Lane 6 D3
Uther Street 4 F5
St Marys Road 1 C5 Sutherland Avenue 6 D3 Windsor Street 6 D3
continues 4 F2 Sutherland Street 6 D3 Wisdom Lane 5 A1
St Neot Avenue 2 E4 Suttor Street 5 A1 V Womerah Avenue 5 B2
Sydney Aquarium 1 A5 Valentine Street 4 D5 Womerah Lane 5 C2
St Peters Lane 5 A1
St Peters Street 5 A1 & 4 D1 Vaughan Place 5 A5 Woods Avenue 6 F4
St Philip’s Church 1 A3 Sydney Art Gallery 3 C3 Verona Street 5 B3 Woods Lane 5 A1
Samuel Street 4 F4 Sydney Cricket Vialoux Avenue 6 D2 Woolloomooloo
Sandringham Ground 5 C5 Vials Lane 6 D4 Finger Wharf 2 D4
Gardens 1 C5, 4 F2 Sydney Dance and Theatre Victoria Avenue 6 E4 Wright Lane 4 E4
Sands Street 4 D3 Company 1 A1 Victoria Barracks 5 B4 Writers’ Walk 1 C2
Saunders Street 3 A2 Sydney Fish Market 3 B2 Victoria Park 3 B5 Wylde Street 2 E4
Science Road 3 A5 Sydney Football Victoria Place 6 D4 Wynyard Lane 1 B4, 4 E1
Seale Street 5 A1 Stadium 5 C4 Victoria Street Wynyard Park 1 A4
Seamer Street 3 A5 Sydney Harbour Bridge 1 B1 (Paddington) 6 D4 continues 4 E1
Sega World 4 D3 Sydney Harbour Victoria Street Wynyard Street 1 A4
Selwyn Street 5 B3 Tunnel 1 C2 (Potts Point) 2 E5 continues 4 E1
Seymour Place 5 A3 Sydney Hospital 1 C4 continues 5 B2
Shadforth Street 5 C3 Sydney Jewish Y
Shakespeare Place 1 C4 Museum 5 B2 W York Lane 1 A4
continues 4 F1 Sydney Mint Museum 1 C4 Waimea Avenue 6 F4 continues 4 E1
Shepherd Street 3 C5 Sydney Observatory 1 A2 Waine Street 4 F4 York Lane
Sherbrooke Street 5 A2 Sydney Opera House 1 C2 Walker Avenue 6 D2 (Bondi Junction) 6 F5
Short Street Sydney Theatre 1 A2 Walker Lane 5 C3 York Place 6 F5
(Darling Point) 6 F1 Sydney Tower 1 B5 Walker Street 5 C3 York Road 6 F5
Short Street Sydney Town Hall 4 E2 Wallis Street 6 E5 York Street 1 A4
(Paddington) 5 A3 Systrum Street 4 D4 Walter Street 5 C4 continues 4 E1
Shorter Lane 5 A1 Waratah Street 5 C1 Young Street 1 B3
Sims Street 5 A3 T Ward Avenue 5 C1 Young Street
Sir John Young Talbot Place 5 A1 Waterloo Street 4 F5 (Paddington) 5 C3
Crescent 2 D5 Talfourd Lane 3 A4 Watson Road 1 A2 Yurong Lane 5 A1
Sisters Lane 6 F2 Talfourd Street 3 A4 Watson Street 6 D4 Yurong Street 4 F3
250 G E N E R A L I N D E X

General Index
Page numbers in bold type ARQ 215 Balmain 131
refer to main entries. The Arrest of Bligh 23 market 131, 203
Art Gallery of New South Wales Birchgrove 143
17, 108–111 court house 143
A area map 103 Darling Street 142–3
A Fish Called Coogee 195 Asian art 111 East Balmain 142
a Tavola (restaurant) 189 Australian art 110 fire station 143
ABN-AMRO Tower 41 contemporary art 111 guided walk 142–3
Abbey’s Bookshop 206, 207 European art 110 post office 143
Aboriginal and Tribal Art Four Great Days in Sydney town hall 143
Centre 206, 207 10–11 Balmoral 54, 55
Aboriginal peoples Gallery Café 194, 195 Balmoral Windsurfing and
art 111, 154, 206, 207 photography 110 Kitesurfing School 54
community 43 prints and drawings 111 Bangarra Dance Theatre 213
culture 36 Sydney’s Best 35, 36 Bank Hotel 197, 215
land rights 31 Yiribana Gallery 10–11, 111 Bank of New South Wales 24
rock art 20–21, 154 Art Gallery Restaurant, The 188 Bank notes 225
Across the black soil plains Arthouse Hotel 197 Banking 224
(Lambert) 110 Ausfurs 206, 207 Banks, Sir Joseph 19, 138
Admiralty House 132 Aussie Stadium (Sydney Baptist church 221
Air New Zealand 229 Football Stadium) 41, 52, 215 Bar Coluzzi 194, 195
Air travel 228–9 Australia Day 51 Il Baretto 191
Airport hotels 229 Australia Day Concert 49 Barnet, James 72
Akira Isogawa 204, 205 Australia Ensemble 212, 213 Australian Museum 88
Alhambra 191 Australia Square 41 Lands Department
Alio (restaurant) 191 Australian Accommodation Building 84
Allan, Percy 98 Services 168, 170 Barney, Lieutenant Colonel
Altamont see Hotel Altamont Australian Ballet, The 213 George 127
Altitude (restaurant) 185 Australian Beach Pattern Baron’s 197
Ambulance 223 (Meere) 35 Barrington 22
American (United States) Australian Brandenburg Barton, Edmond 28
Consulate General 221 Orchestra 212 Bars see Pubs and Bars
American Express 224 Australian Chamber Orchestra Basement, The 214, 215
AMP Building 63 212, 213 The Basin 55, 155
AMP Tower see Sydney Tower Australian Heritage Hotel 184, Basketball 52
Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool 57, 196 Bass, George 23
105 Australian International Motor Bathers’ Pavilion (restaurant)
Andrew McDonald (shop) Show 48 193
205 Australian Museum 88–9 Bayswater Brasserie 189
Anglican Church 221 shop 206, 207 BBQ King 187
Angus and Robertson’s Sydney’s Best 35, 36–7 Beaches 54–5
Bookworld 206, 207 Australian National Maritime map 55
Annandale Hotel 214, 215 Museum 94–5 Sydney’s Top 30 Beaches 55
Anzac Day 50, 84 Australian rules football 52 Beare Park 120, 121
Anzac Memorial 86 Australian Travel Specialists 235 Bécasse (restaurant) 186
history 28 Australian Women’s Weekly 29 Beckmann, Max
Sydney’s Best 38, 41 Australian Youth Choir 213 Old Woman in Ermine 110
Apartment 195 Australiana 206, 207 Bed and Breakfast NSW
Aqua Dining 192 Automatic cash dispensers 224 170
Archibald Fountain 78, 86 Autumn Racing Carnival 50 Bed and Breakfast Sydney
Archibald Prize 28 Autumn in Sydney 50 Central 170
Archibald, Wynne and Sulman Avalon 55 Belinda (shop) 205
Exhibitions 50 Avis 236, 237 Bell Shakespeare Company, The
Architecture 38– 40 AWA Radiolette 29 210, 211
Elizabeth Bay House 24–5 Belvoir Street Theatre 210, 211
Sydney Opera House 77 Bennelong 22
Argyle Stores 40, 68 B Berida Manor 177
Argyle Cut 64 Baby changing facilities 221 Berkelouw Books 206, 207
Aria (restaurant) 185 Backpackers World Travel 170 Between the Flags 205
Ariel (bookshop) 206, 207 Badde Manors 195 Beyond Sydney 151–65
Armani 205 The Balcony (2) (Whiteley) 110 area map 152–3
Armistice 28 Bally 205 Blue Mountains 160–61
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 251

Beyond Sydney (cont) Blue Orange (restaurant) 192 Bookshop Darlinghurst, The
Hawkesbury 156–7 Blue Parrot Backpackers 170 206, 207
Hunter Valley 158–9 Blue Sydney 176 Bookshops 206, 207
Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay, Boomalli Aboriginal Artists’
Chase 154–5 The 193 Cooperative 206, 207
Royal National Park 164–5 Boats Boomerangs 21
Southern Highlands 162–3 The Borrowdale 22 Boost Juice 195
Bibb, John 66 The Bounty 219 Botanic Gardens and The
Bicentenary 30 Carpentaria 92, 95 Domain 102–15
Bicentennial Park 44 Dunbar 26, 136, 148 area map 103
Bicycles 53, 237 Endeavour (replica), 95 café 195
Biennale of Sydney 51 ferries 234–5 hotels 175
Big Day Out (festival) 49 ferry sightseeing cruises 235 restaurants 188
Big Mama’s (restaurant) 190 harbour and river cruises Street-by-Street map 104–5
Big Top 132 219 Botanic Gardens Restaurant 188
Bikescape Motorcycle Rentals HMAS Vampire 93, 95 Boy in Township (Nolan) 110
and Tours 219 HMB Endeavour 34 Boyd, Arthur 110
Bilgola 55, 155 HMS Beagle 25 Bradfield, Dr John 71
Bill and Toni’s (restaurant) 189 HMS Sirius 72 Bradleys Head 45
Bill Hicks Jewellery 206, 207 Lady Juliana 22 Bradman, Donald 29
Bills2 (café) 195 Matilda Cruises 219 Brett Whiteley Studio 36, 130
Billy Kwong (restaurant) 192 National Maritime Museum 93, BridgeClimb 53, 71
Birchgrove 94–5 British Airways 229
Balmain Walk 143 Orcades 94 Bronte
park 143 Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai beaches 54–5
Bird Cow Fish 191 Chase 154–5 Bronte Gully 145
Birdland (records) 206–7 Royal National Park 164–5 Bronte House 145
Birtley Towers 119 sailing 54, 56 Bronte Park 145
Bistro Moncur 190 Vampire 93, 95 Bondi Beach to Clovelly Walk
Bistro Moore 190 water taxis 235 144–5
Blacket, Edmund 87 The Waverly 27 Bubonic plague 59
Garrison Church 69 Bodega 192 Budget (car hire) 236, 237
Justice and Police Museum 72 Bodhi in the Park 185 The Bulletin 27
St Philip’s Church 73 Boer War 26 Bundeena Beach
University of Sydney 130 Bondi Baths 144 Bed & Breakfast 177
Blacket Hotel 173 Bondi Beach 137 Bungalow 8 (club) 215
Blanchard, Jacques Aboriginal art 21 Bungaree 25
Mars and the Vestal Virgin baths 144 Bunny, Rupert
108 beaches 54–5 A Summer Morning 110
Bligh, Governor William 22 Campbell Parade 144 Summer Time 110
Bligh House 40 Four Great Days in Sydney 11 Buon Ricardo 190
blu horizon 197 guided walk 144–5 Bureaux de change 224
Blue Mountains Guides 219 Hotel Bondi 144 Burke (Nolan) 110
Blue Mountains National Park map 129 Buses 231
160–61 market 203 sightseeing by bus 231
camping 170, 171 Pavilion 144, 213 tickets 230–1
Cathedral of Ferns 161 Sculpture by the Sea 48 Busby’s Bore 87
Govett’s Leap 160 Surf Bathers’ Life Saving Club Busby, John 87
Grose River 160 137, 144 Buzo 190
history 20 Surf School 54
Jamison Valley 161 Bondi Hotel 197
Jenolan Caves 160 Bondi Icebergs Dining Room C
King’s Tableland 161 11, 179, 193 Cabramatta 18, 42
Leura 161 Bondi North 144 Cadman, John 68
map 160–61 Bondi Pavilion 144, 213 Street-by-Street map 65
Mount Tomah Botanic Bondi Beach to Clovelly Walk Cadi Jam Ora 105
Gardens 161 144 Cadman, Elizabeth
Mount Wilson 161 Bondi Surf Bathers’ Life Saving Street-by-Street map 65
The Three Sisters 160 Club 137, 144 Cadman’s Cottage 10, 68
Wentworth Falls 161 Bondi Surf Co 54 museums and galleries 37
Yester Grange 161 Bondi Trattoria 192 Sydney’s Best 38, 40
Zig Zag Railway 160 Bonza Bike Tours 237 Café of the Gate of Salvation 213
252 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Café Hernandez 195 Chelsea, The (hotel) 175 Coast (restaurant) 188
Café Mint 191 Chifley Plaza 199 Coburn, John
Café Sel et Poivre 195 Children’s theatre 210, 211 Curtain of the Moon 75
Café Sydney 184, 214, 215 Chinatown 99 Cockatoo Island 106
Cafés 194–5 Sydney’s Best 200 Cockle Bay 91, 93
best breakfasts 194 Chinese community 43 Street-by-Street map 92–3
late-night snacks 195 Chinese Garden 92, 98 Coins 225
takeaway food 194–5 Chinese Laundry (club) 215 Collect (shop) 205
Camp Cove Chinese New Year 49 Collins Beach 147
beaches 54–5 Chinta Ria: The Temple of Love Collette Dinnigan (shop) 11, 204,
Watsons Bay and Vaucluse (restaurant) 187 205
Walk 148 Chisholm, Caroline 25, 27 Colombian 215
Campbell Parade 144 Christmas at Bondi Beach 49 Colonial history 37
Campbell, Robert 66, 139 Churches Comedy Store 211
Campbell’s Storehouses 10, 66 Anglican church 221 Comedy venues 211
Camping 170, 171 Baptist church 221 Commonwealth Savings Bank
Canadian Airlines 229 Catholic church 221 41
Canadian Consulate General 221 Garrison Church 68–9 Conder, Charles
Candy’s Apartment (nightclub) 215 Presbyterian church 221 Departure of the Orient –
Capital L (shop) 205 St Andrew’s Cathedral 87 Circular Quay 110
Capitol Theatre 99, 210, 211 St Andrew’s Church 143 Conservatorium of Music 106
Captain Cook Cruises 219, 235 St James Church 10, 38, 40, 115 Convention and Exhibition
Captain Cook’s Landing Place 138 St Mary’s Cathedral 27, 40, 86 Centre (Darling Harbour) 98
Car hire companies 237 St Philip’s Church 73 Street-by-Street map 92
Cargo Bar 197 Uniting Church 221 Conversion table 221
Cargo (nightclub) 214, 215 Cinema Paris 210, 211 Coo-ee Aboriginal Art Gallery
Carols in the Domain 49 Circular Quay, The Rocks and 206, 207
Carrington Hotel 177 city shoreline 59 Coogee 21
Cars 236–7 Citigate Central Sydney 174 beaches 54–5
car hire 236, 237 City Centre 79–89 Coogee Bay Hotel 197
driving in Sydney 236–7 area map 79 Coogee Surf Carnival 49
driving to Sydney 229 hotels 173–4 Cook, Captain James
driving regulations 236 restaurants 185–7 history 19, 138
Infringement Processing Street-by-Street map 80–81 Cook and Phillip Centre 79
Bureau 237 Sydney’s Best 201 Cook’s Obelisk 138
parking 236 City Circle Railway 87 Cooper, Robert 126
Sydney Traffic Control Centre City Extra 195 The Corso 146
237 City Mutual Life Assurance Cosmopolitan Shoes 205
Castlereagh Boutique Hotel Building 41 Cossington-Smith, Grace
173 City Recital Hall, The 212, 213 The Curve of the Bridge 110
Castlereagh Street City shoreline Countrylink Travel Centres 170,
Sydney’s Best 201 Garden Island to Farm Cove 233
Cat and Fiddle 214, 215 56–7 Cox, Philip 41
Catalina Rose Bay 193 Sydney Cove to Walsh Bay Credit cards 224
Catholic church 221 58–9 Cricket 52
Cenotaph 84 City to Surf Race 51 Donald Bradman 29
Street-by-Street map 81 CityRail 232–3 test matches 49, 52
Centennial Park 17, 127 CityRail Information 233 World Series 31
cycling 53 CitySearch 209 Crumpler (shop) 205
Sydney’s Best 45 Civic Hotel 197 Cultures
Centennial Parklands Restaurant Claude’s (restaurant) 191 Aboriginal Peoples 20–21
194, 195 Clifton Gardens 55 Sydney’s Many Cultures
Centennial Park Cycles 53, 237 Climate 48–51 42–43
Central Park Hotel 173 Clontarf Culwalla Chambers 28
Central Railway Station 218, 229 Balmain Walk 142 Curl Curl 55
Central Station Records and Clothes and accessories 204–5 Currency 225
Tapes 206, 207 Cloud 9 Balloon Flights 219 The Currency Lass (Geoghegan)
Chamber music 212 Clovelly 25
Chanel 205 beaches 55 The Curve of the Bridge
Charlton, Andrew “Boy” 29, 57 Bondi Beach to Clovelly Walk (Cossington-Smith) 110
Chaucer at the Court of Edward 145 Customs House 72
III (Madox Brown) 110 Coach services 229 Cycling see Bicycles
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 253

D Done Art and Design 206, Entertainment in Sydney 208–15

Dance 213 207 buying tickets 208
Danks Street Depot 195 Doyles On the Beach children’s theatre 210
Darling Harbour 91–101 (restaurant) 136, 148 comedy 211
area map 91 Dragon Boat Race Festival 50 disabled visitors 209
Hoopla (festival) 50 Dragstar (shop) 205 discount tickets 209
hotels 174 Drinking fountains 221 gay and lesbian pubs and
Jazz and Blues Festival 51 Driving regulations 236 clubs 215
restaurants 187–8 Drysdale, Russell 110 information 208, 209
Street-by-Street map 93 Sofala 108 music venues and nightclubs
visitors centre 218 Dugong Hunt 214–15
No. 10 Darling Street (Wurrabadalumba) 36 opera, orchestras and dance
Balmain Walk 142 Dunbar 26 212–13
Darling Street Wharf Watsons Bay 136, 148 theatre and film 210–11
Balmain Walk 142 Dupain, Max Entertainment Quarter 123, 126,
ferry routes map 235 Sunbaker 108 203
Darlinghurst Court House 121 Duxford Street Environmental hazards 223
Sydney’s Best 39, 40 Street-by-Street map 124 S.H. Ervin Gallery 73
Darlinghurst and Surry Hills Dymocks 206, 207 est. (restaurant) 186
Sydney’s Best 201 Establishment Hotel 174
Darwin, Charles 25 Establishment Hotel and
David Jones 198, 199 E Hemmesphere 196, 197
café 195 Earle, Augustus Eternity, Mr (Arthur Stace) 31
history 25 Desmond, a New South Wales Etiquette 219
David Jones Spring Flower Chief 19 Ewenton
Show 48 View from the Summit 24 Balmain Walk 142
Dawn (Louisa Lawson) 27 The Early Colony 22–3 Experiment Farm Cottage 139
Dawson, Alexander 72 East Chinese 184 colonial history 23, 37
Dayes, Edward East Sail 54
A View of Sydney Cove 22 Eastern Suburbs Railway 31
Dee Why 55 Eastside Arts 213 F
Delfin House 41 Edge of the Trees (Laurence and Fairfax and Roberts 206, 207
Dellit, Bruce 38, 41 Foley) 85 Fairy Bower 55, 146
Del Rio 117, 119 Edward, Prince of Wales 28 Farage (shop) 205
Dendy (cinemas) 210, 211 El Alamein Fountain 120 Farm Cove 57
Dentists 222, 223 Electrical appliances 221 Fax services 226
Departure of the Orient – Elizabeth II, Queen 30 Federation 28
Circular Quay (Conder) Elizabeth Bay 17, 119 Federation architecture 28
110 Elizabeth Bay House 24–5, 120 Sydney’s Best 40, 41
Departure tax 220 history 24–5 Female Factory 25
Desmond, a New South Wales Street-by-Street map 119 Ferries 230, 234–5
Chief (Earle) 19 Sydney’s Best: Architecture 39, Bundeena 165
Dhanyula Nyoka, Tony 40 Circular Quay Ferry Terminal
Mud Crabs 34 Sydney’s Best: Museums and 234
Diamant Hotel Sydney, The 175 Galleries 35, 37 ferry tickets 234
Diesel 205 Elizabeth Farm 138 Hawkesbury River 153
Diethnes (restaurant) 186 colonial history 23, 37 Manly Fast Ferry 234
Dinosaur Designs Embassies and consulates 221 Portland 157
204, 206, 207 Canada 221 RiverCat 234
Diprotodon 20, 35 New Zealand 221 Sackville 156
Disabled travellers 169, 170, Republic of Ireland 221 sightseeing by ferry 235
209, 220 United Kingdom 221 Sydney Ferries Information 234
Discount agencies 170, 209 USA 221 Webbs Creek 157
Dive Centre Manly 54 Emden gun 87 Wisemans 157
Dive (hotel) 176 Emergency services 223 Ferrython 49
Dixon Street 99 Emirates 229 Festival of the Winds 48
Dobell, William 110 Empire Hotel 214, 215 Fiesta (festival) 48
Dobell Memorial Sculpture Encasa (restaurant) 186 Film 210, 211
(Flugelman) 84 Endeavour, HMS 138 Film censorship ratings
The Domain 45, 107, 212 Enmore Theatre 214, 215 210
area map 103 Ensemble Theatre 210, Film festivals 210–11
211 Festival of Jewish Cinema 211
254 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Film festivals (cont) Garie Beach 153 Greyhound see McCafferty’s

Flickerfest International Short Garigal National Park 44 Greyhound
Film Festival 49, 211 Garrison Church 10, 68–9 Griffin Theatre 211
Gay and Lesbian Film Festival Street-by-Street map 64 de Groot, Francis 70
211 Gas (nightclub) 214, 215 Grotto Point 45
Sydney Film Festival 210 Gay and lesbian GST 198
The First Fleet 22 accommodation 170 Guided tours and excursions 219
First Fleet Ship (Holman) 22 Gay and Lesbian Tourism air tours 219
Fishermans Beach 55 Australia 170 coach and motorcycle tours
Fish Face (restaurant) 189 G’day Backpackers 170 219
Fish Records 207 General Pants (shop) 204, 205 ferry sightseeing cruises 235
Five Ways 126 General Post Office (GPO) 40, harbour and river cruises 219
Street-by-Street map 124 84, 227 walking tours 219
Flame Opals 206, 207 Gertrude & Alice 195 Guillaume at Bennelong 185,
Flickerfest 49 Geoghegan, Edward 197
Flinders, Matthew 23, 24, 25 The Currency Lass 25 Gumbooya Reserve 21
cat statue (Trim) 112 George Street 66 Gumnut Café 194, 195
Flugelman, Bert The Georgian Era 24–5
Dobell Memorial Sculpture Gibbs, May 37, 132
84 Snugglepot and Cuddlepie 67, H
Flying Fish (restaurant) 193 132 Hampton Villa
Flying Fruit Fly Circus Ginger Meggs 67 Balmain Walk 142
210, 211 Ginn, Henry 69 Harbour cruises 58
Folkways 206, 207 Giorgio Armani 205 Captain Cook Cruises 219
Food and drink Giulian’s 206, 207 Quayside Booking Centre 235
beers and spirits 179 Glass Brasserie 186 Harbour Kitchen and Bar 184
pubs and bars 196–7 Glasser, Neil 82 Harbour Rocks Hotel 172
what to drink 182–3 Glebe 131 Harbourside Shopping Centre,
what to eat 180–1 market 131, 203 Darling Harbour 199
see also Cafés; Restaurants Gleebooks 206, 207 Street-by-Street map 92
Footbridge Theatre 210, 211 Glenbrook Crossing 20 Hardy Brothers 206, 207
Foreign currency exchange Globe Nightclub 214, 215 Hart’s Homestay Paddington 176
224 Glover, John Hambledon Cottage 37, 139
Formule 1 (hotel) 175 Natives on the Ouse River, Van Harry’s Café de Wheels 11, 57,
Forrester’s 197 Diemen’s Land 109, 110 195
Fort Denison 107 Golden Century (restaurant) 187 Hawkesbury 156–7
Forty One (restaurant) 187 The Golden Fleece – Shearing at Hawkesbury River ferry 153
The Founding of Australia Newstead (Roberts) 109, 110 Haymarket 99
(Talmage) 73 Gold rush 26 Helen Kaminski 204, 205
Foukes, Francis Golf 52 Helplines 223
Sketch and Description of the Good Groove Records 206, 207 Heritage Belgian Beer Café
Settlement of Sydney Cove 19 Good Living Growers’ Market 184
Four Great Days in Sydney 10–11 203 Hero of Waterloo 69, 197
Four in Hand (restaurant) 190 Gordons Bay 54, 55 Street-by-Street map 64
Four Points By Sheraton 174 Government House 58, 106 Hertz 236, 237
Franklin, Miles Governor Phillip Tower 38, 41, Hilton Sydney 168, 174
My Brilliant Career 28 85 cabaret 215
Freshwater 55 Govinda’s (restaurant) 189, 211 History 18–31
Funnel-web spider 46, 89, 223 GPO Woodired Pizza 186 Early Colony 22–3
Australian Museum 89 Grace Hotel, The 173 Georgian Era 24–5
Great Synagogue 40, 86 Postwar Sydney 30–31
Greater Union (cinemas) 210, Sydney Between the Wars
G 211 28–9
Gaelic Club 215 Greek community 43 Sydney’s Original Inhabitants
Galeries Victoria 195, 199 Green Bans 31, 120 20–21
Gallipoli 28 Green Park Hotel 196, 197 timeline 20–31
The Gap Greenway, Francis 114 Victorian Sydney 26–7
Watsons Bay 136 Conservatorium of Music 106 HMAS Vampire 93, 95
Watsons Bay and Vaucluse Hyde Park Barracks 114 HMB Endeavour 34
Walk 148, 149 Macquarie Lighthouse 24, 137 HMS Beagle 25
Garden Island 56 Macquarie Place obelisk 72 HMS Sirius 72
Garfish (restaurant) 192 St James’ Church 38 Hoff, Raynor 38
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 255

Hogarth Galleries Aboriginal Art Hyde Park Barracks Museum Johnson, Richard 131
Centre 11, 206, 207 10, 114 Jonah’s (hotel) 177
Holey dollar 24 Sydney’s Best: Architecture Juniper Hall 126
Holiday Inn Darling Harbour 39, 40 Just Jeans (shop) 204, 205
174 Sydney’s Best: Museums and Justice and Police Museum 34,
Holman, Francis Galleries 35, 37 37, 72
First Fleet Ship 22 Hype DC (shop) 205
Home Sydney 215
Homestay Network 170
K
Hoopla (festival) 50
I Kame Kngwarreye, Emily 111
Icebergs Bistro 195 Kathryn’s on Queen Boutique
Hopetoun Hotel
Icebergs Dining Room and Bar Bed & Breakfast 176
214, 215
11, 193, 197 Keba
Hordern Pavilion 215
Ideas Inc 170, 209 Balmain Walk 143
Horderns Stairs
IGLTA (International Gay and King Street Wharf 91, 98
Street-by-Street map 118
Lesbian Travel Association) 170 Kings Cross and Darlinghurst
Hornby Lighthouse
Iku (café) 195 110–21
Watsons Bay and Vaucluse
Il Porcellino 113 area map 117
Walk 149
Immigration and customs hotels 175–6
Hospital casualty departments
220 restaurants 189–90
223
Imperial Hotel 214, 215 Street-by-Street map
Hostels 170
Implement blue (Preston) 110 118–19
Hotel Altamont 175
Indochine Café 186 King’s Cross Travellers’
Hotel Bondi
Industrie, South of France 186 Clinic 222, 223
Bondi Beach to Clovelly Walk
Infrigement Processing Bureau Kingsford Smith (Sydney)
144
237 Airport 228, 229
Hotel InterContinental 175
Inline Skating 53 Kingsford Smith, Charles 29
Hotel Pensione 173
Insurance Kirchner, Ernst
Hotel Unilodge 176
cars 236–7 Three Bathers 110
Hotels 168–77
medical 222 Kirribilli House 132
airport hotels 229
Interdenominational church Kirribilli Point 132
booking addresses 170
221 Kobe Jones (restaurant) 188
budget accommodation 170
Interforex 224 Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park
children 169
International College of Tourism 154–5
disabled assistance 170
and Hotel Management 147 Aboriginal carvings 21
disabled travellers 169
International Student Identity camping 170, 171
discount rates 169
Card 219 Ksubi 205
gay and lesbian
Internet access 226
accommodation 170, 171
Interpreting services 223
halls of residence 170, 171
Irish community 43
hidden extras 169
Islamic
L
how to book 168 Lady Bay Beach
community 42
private homes 170 Watsons Bay and Vaucluse
religious services 221
self-catering apartments 169 Walk 148
Islay 82
where to look 168 Lady Juliana 22
Italian community 43
Hour Glass, The 206, 207 Lake Mungo, New South Wales
Hoyts (cinemas) 210, 211 history 20
Hughenden Hotel 176 J Lambert, George
Hugo’s at Manly Wharf 192 Jacob’s Ladder Across the black soil plains
Hugo’s Lounge 197 Watsons Bay and Vaucluse 110
Hume and Hovell 24 Walk 148, 149 Lands Department Building 40,
Hunter Valley 158–9 Jan Logan 205, 206, 207 84
Convent at Pepper Tree Japan Airlines 229 Land Titles Office 115
159 Jenolan Caravan Park 171 Landmark Hotel 119
Golden Grape Estate 158 Jewellery 206, 207 Lane Cove National Park 44
Hope Estate 159 Jewish Lane Cove River Toursit Park 176
Lake’s Folly 159 community 43 Laurence, Janet and Foley, Fiona
Lindemans 158 Great Synagogue 86–7 Edge of the Trees 34, 85
Rothbury Estate 152 religious services 221 Lawson, Henry 26
Wyndham Estate 159 Sydney Jewish Museum 37, Lawson, Louisa
Hyde Park 44, 86 121 Dawn 27
Hyde Park Barracks, synagogue 221 Legion Cabs 237
The (café) 188 Jimmy Liks (restaurant) 189 Legs on the Wall 213
256 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Leslie Mackay’s bookshop 206, Madox Brown, Ford Maps (cont)

207 Chaucer at the Court of Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai
Let’s Go Surfing 54 Edward III 110 Chase 154–5
Leura Garden Festival 48 The Magic Pudding (Lindsay)67 Postwar Sydney 30
Lewin, John Magistic Cruises 219, 235 Potts Point 118–19
Waratah 23 Mahjong Room 189 The Rocks 64–5
Lewis, Mortimer 88, 121 Maitland House The Rocks and Circular Quay
Light Brigade Hotel 197 Balmain Walk 142 63
Lilianfels Blue Mountains 177 Maker’s Mark 205, 206, 207 Royal Botanic Gardens 104–5
Lindsay, Norman Malaya, The (restaurant) 188 Royal National Park 164–5
The Magic Pudding 67 Manly 133 Southeast Asia and Pacific Rim
Lindt Chocolat Café 195 12
Collins Beach 46, 147
Lisa Ho (shop) 204, 205 Southern Highlands 162–3
The Corso 133, 146
Little Shark (Nolan) 76 Street Finder 238–5
Fairy Bower 146
London Hotel 197 Sydney Between the Wars 28
food and wine festival 51
Balmain Walk 143 Sydney’s Original Inhabitants
Four Great Days in Sydney 10
London Tavern 11, 196, 197 20–21
guided walk 146–7
Street-by-Street map 124 Taronga Zoo 134–5
Jazz Festival 48
Longrain (restaurant) Victorian Sydney 26
Little Manly Cove 147
192, 197 Walk Around Balmain 142–3
Manly Beach 54, 55, 146
Long Reef 54, 55 Walk Around Manly 146–7
Manly Wharf 146
Long-Distance Coach Services Walk from Bondi Beach to
New Brighton Hotel 146
229 Clovelly 144–5
North Head 133, 147 Walk in Watsons Bay and
Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel
Oceanworld 133 Vaucluse 148–9
172
Parkhill Sandstone Arch 147 Marble Bar 82, 197
historic pub 16, 197
St Patrick’s Seminary 40, 146 Street-by-Street map 80
Lost property
Shelly Beach 54, 55, 146 Marigold (restaurant) 187
State Rail 223
Surf School 54 Marian Street Theatre for Young
Sydney Buses 223
viewing platforms 146 People 210, 211
Sydney Ferries 223, 235
Manly Pacific (hotel) 177 Marina Kiosk Café 195
Lotus Bar & Bistro 189, 197
Manly Surf School 54 Market City 195, 199
Louis Vuitton 205
Manly Wharf Hotel 191, 197 Markets 203
Love and Hatred 206, 207
Man O’War Steps 58 Entertainment Quarter 126,
Lower Fort Street 40
Manta (restaurant) 190 203
Lucio’s 191
Maps Paddington Markets 201, 126,
Luna Park 29, 132
Australia 12–13 203
beaches 55 Paddy’s Markets 99, 203
M Blue Mountains 160–61 The Rocks Market 65, 203
Macarthur, John and Elizabeth Botanic Gardens and The Sydney Fish Market 131, 200,
138 Domain 103 202, 203
McCafferty’s Greyhound (coach Central Sydney 16–17 Maroubra 21, 54, 55
service) 229 Central Sydney and suburbs Marque (restaurant) 193
McElhone Stairs 14–15, 129 Mars and the Vestal Virgin
Street-by-Street map 118 City Centre 79, 80–81 (Blanchard) 108
Mackennal, Bertram 84, 86 CityRail route map 323 Mars Lounge 215
Mackenzies Point city shoreline 56–9 Marsden, Samuel 115, 139
Bondi Beach to Clovelly Walk Darling Harbour 91, 92–3 Martin Place 84
144, 145 Early Colony 22 Street-by-Street map 81
Macleay, Alexander 24 Exploring Beyond Sydney Matilda Cruises 219, 235
Macquarie, Governor Lachlan 152–3 Maureen Fry Sydney Guided
24, 72 ferry routes 235 Tours 219
Elizabeth 24, 106 Georgian Era 24 Max Brenner 195
Macquarie Chair, The 11, 24 Greater Sydney and Environs Maya 191
Macquarie Lighthouse 137 13 MCA Café 195
history 24 guided walks 141 Media 221
Watson Bay and Vaucluse Hawkesbury River 156–7 Medical treatment 222
Walk 148 Hunter Valley 158–9 Medina on Crown (hotel) 177
Macquarie Place 72 Kings Cross and Darlinghurst Medusa (hotel) 176
Macquarie Street 10, 117 Meere, Charles
112–15 19th-century Sydney 19 Australian Beach Pattern 35
McRae, George 82 Paddington 123, 124–5 Melbourne Cup Day 48
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 257

Mercantile Hotel 172 Museums and galleries (cont) National Herbarium of New
Meriton Bondi Junction 177 Elizabeth Bay House 24–5, 35, South Wales 105
Meriton World Tower 174 37, 119, 120 Street-by-Street map 93
Metro (music venue) 214, 215 Elizabeth Farm 23, 37, 138–9 Sydney’s Best: Architecture 38,
Metro Light Rail (MLR) 232, 233 Experiment Farm Cottage 23, 41
Michael’s Music Room 206, 207 37, 139 Sydney’s Best: Museums and
Middle Bar 197 Hambledon Cottage 37, 139 Galleries 34, 36–7
Middle Head and Obelisk Bay Hyde Park Barracks National Mutual Building 40
45 Museum35, 37, 114–15 National parks
Midnight Shift (nightclub) 214, Justice and Police Museum 34, Blue Mountains National Park
215 37, 72 160 –61
Mint, The 10, 25, 37, 114 Macleay Museum, University camping 170, 171
Mint Bar and Dining 197 of Sydney 130 Garigal National Park 44
Mitchell, Dr James 69 Museum of Contemporary Art Ku-ring-gai Chase National
Mitchell Library 112 34, 36, 64, 73 Park 154–5
Mitchell, Sir Thomas 24 Museum of Sydney 34, Lane Cove National Park 44
MLC Centre 41, 199 37, 85 Royal National Park 164–5
MLR (Metro Light Rail) 232, 233 Australian National Maritime National Trust Centre 73
Mobile phones 226 Museum 34, 36–7, 93, 94–5 National Trust Heritage Festival
Mohr Fish 192 Nicholson Museum, University Week 50
Monorail 31, 232–3 of Sydney 130 Natives on the Ouse River, Van
Moonlight, Captain 27 Nutcote 37, 132–3 Diemen’s Land (Glover) 109,
Moore, Henry Old Government House 25, 110
Reclining Figure: Angles 37, 139 Naval Memorial Chapel
110 Powerhouse Museum 34, 36, Watsons Bay and Vaucluse
Moore Park 45, 52 100– 101 Walk 148
golf club 52 The Rocks Discovery Museum Nelson, Michael Tjakamarra
tennis courts 52 63, 65, 66 The Possum Dreaming 74
Moreton Bay fig (Ficus Sailors’ Home 37, 67 Nelson’s Brasserie 184
macrophylla) 47 S.H. Ervin Gallery 37, 73 Nepean River
Morgan’s (hotel) 175 Sherman Gallery 125 history 20
Mort Bay Reserve Susannah Place Museum 27, New Mardi Gras Festival
Balmain Walk 142 37, 67 30, 49
Moshtix 215 Sydney Jewish Museum 35, New South Wales Corps (Rum
Mother Chu’s Vegetarian 37, 121 Corps) 22
Kitchen 186 Vaucluse House 37, 136 New South Wales National
Mrs Macquaries Chair 11, 105, Victoria Barracks 127 Parks and Wildlife Service
106 War Memorial Art Gallery, 68
city shoreline 56 University of Sydney 130
New Theatre 213
Victorian Sydney 26 Westpac Museum 37, 68
New Year’s Eve 49
Movie Room 210, 211 Music 212–15
New Zealand Consulate General
Mowarljarlai, David chamber 212
221
Rock Painting 88 choral 213
Newmans Escorted Tours 219
Mud Crabs (Dhanyula Nyoka) free concerts 212
Newport 54, 55
34 house 214
Newspapers 221
Mundey, Jack 67 jazz, folk and blues 214, 215
@Newtown 215
Museum of Contemporary Art music venues 214
Nick’s Bar & Grill 188
73 opera, orchestras and dance
Nielsen, Juanita 120
Street-by-Street map 64 212–13
Nielsen Park 45, 136
Sydney’s Best 34, 36 rock, pop and hip hop 214, 215
Greycliffe House 136
Museum of Sydney Café 195 Musica Viva 212, 213
Nightclubs 214, 215
Museums and galleries (general) Music shops 206, 207
Sydney’s Best 34–7 My Brilliant Career (Franklin) 28 Nolan, Sydney
tourist information 218 Myall Creek massacre 25 Boy in Township 110
Museums and galleries Myer 198, 199 Burke 110
(individual) children’s clothes 205 Little Shark 76
Art Gallery of New South Ned Kelly 31
Wales 35, 36, 108–11 North Arm Walk 44
Australian Museum 35, 36, N North Bondi Classic Ocean
88–9 Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics 206, Swim 49
Brett Whiteley Studio 36, 130 207 North Bondi Italian Food
Cadman’s Cottage 23, 37, 68 Narrabeen 54, 55 192
258 G E N E R A L I N D E X

North Head 133 Paddington Markets 126, 203 Parks and reserves (geographic)
reserve 147 Sydney’s Best 201 (cont)
Quarantine Station 133 Paddington Inn 190, 197 open eucalypt forest 46
Sydney’s Best 45, 46 Paddington Street 40, 126 rainforest and moist forest 46
Novotel Darling Harbour 174 Street-by-Street map 124–5 wetlands 47
Nowra, Louis 210 Paddington Town Hall Parliament House 10, 112
NRMA (National Roads and 123, 127 Parramatta 20, 37
Motorists Association) 168, 170 Paddington Village 127 Experiment Farm Cottage 37,
NSW Visitor Information Line 218 Paddington and Woollahra 139
Sydney’s Best 201 Hambledon Cottage 37, 139
entertainment information
Paddy’s Markets 99, 203 Elizabeth Farm 37, 138
208, 209
Palace Cinemas 210, 211 James Ruse 139
hotel bookings 168, 170
Palm Beach 54, 55, 155 Old Government House 25,
Nude in a Rocking Chair
Park Hyatt Sydney 172 37, 139
(Picasso) 110
Park, Ruth St John’s Cemetery 139
Nutcote 37, 132
Poor Man’s Orange 130 Samuel Marsden 139
The Harp in the South 130 Parsley Bay
Parkes, Henry 26 beaches 55
O Parking 236 Watsons Bay and Vaucluse
Obelisk 87
Parks and reserves (individual) Walk 149
Obelisk Bay 55
Beare Park 120 Paspaley Pearls 206, 207
Oceanworld 133
Bicentennial Park 44, 47 Pasteur (restaurant) 187
O’Keefe, Johnny 30
Birchgrove Park 143 Pavilion in the Park 188
Old Gaol, Darlinghurst 121
Blue Mountains National Park Pemulwy 23
Old Government House
53, 160–61, 170, 171 Peppers Guest House 177
(Parramatta) 25, 37, 139
Bradleys Head 45, 46 Percy Marks (jewellers) 206, 207
Old Manly Boatshed, The 211
Bronte Park 145 Performance Space 213
Old Sydney Holiday Inn 172
Captain Cook’s Landing Place Periwinkle Manly Cove 176
Old Woman in Ermine
138 Personal security and health
(Beckmann) 110 Centennial Park 45, 47, 53, 127 222–3
Olsen, John Chinese Garden 98–9 Petit Crème 195
Salute to Five Bells 76 The Domain 45, 47, 107 Phamish (restaurant) 190
Olympic Games 31, 138 Fitzroy Falls 162 Pharmacies 223
Onkaparinga Garigal National Park 44, 46 After-Hours Pharmacy
Balmain Walk 142 Grotto Point 45, 46 Information 223
Opals 206, 207 Gumbooya Reserve 21 Phillip, Captain Arthur
Opal Fields (shop) 206, 207 Hyde Park 44, 47, 86–7 19, 64, 73
Opera Australia 212 Ku-ring-gai Chase National Phonecards 226
Opera Bar 184, 195 Park 21, 53, 154–5, 170, 171 Piccadilly (arcade) 199
Opera in the Domain 49 Lane Cove National Park 44, Pier (restaurant) 193
Oporto 195 46–7 Pilot boats
Orchestral music 212 Macquarie Place 72 Watsons Bay and Vaucluse
Orso Bayside Restaurant 193 Middle Head 45, 46 Walk 149
Orson & Blake (shop) 206, 207 Moore Park 45, 52 Pinchgut (Fort Denison) 107
Oscars (restaurant) 187 Mort Bay Reserve 142 Pink House (hostel) 170
L’ôtel 175 Mount Tomah Botanic Pink Peppercorn (restaurant) 189
Otto (restaurant) 190 Gardens 161 Pittwater and Ku-ring-gai Chase
Overseas Passenger Terminal North Arm 44, 46 154–5
Street-by-Street map 65 Nielsen Park 45, 136, 149 Aboriginal rock art 154
Oxford Hotel 214, 215 North Head 45, 46, 132, 147 Akuna Bay 154
Oz magazine 31 Obelisk Bay 45, 55 Barrenjoey Lighthouse 154
Royal Botanic Gardens 104–5 Bilgola Beach 55, 155
Royal National Park 21, camping 170, 171
P 164–5, 170, 171 Coal and Candle Creek 154
Pacific International Hotel 170 Seven Mile Beach 163 history 21
Paddington 39, 123–7 South Head 45, 46, 148–9 horse riding 53
area map 123 Sydney’s Best 44–7 Palm Beach Wharf 155
Four Great Days in Sydney 11 Taronga Zoo 134–5 Pittwater 155
hotels 176 Yurulbin Point Reserve 143 Whale Beach 55, 155
restaurants 190–91 Parks and reserves (geographic) Poisons Information 223
Street-by-Street map 124–5 city parks 47 Police 222, 223
Sydney’s Best 201 coastal hinterland 46 Pompei’s (restaurant) 192
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 259

Pontoon Bar (nightclub) 214, 215 Queen Victoria Building (cont) The Rocks and Circular Quay
The Possum Dreaming Sydney’s Best: Architecture 38, (cont)
(Tjakamarra) 74 40 walking tour 219
Poster for the Vienna Secession Sydney’s Best: Shopping The Rocks Discovery Museum
(Schiele) 111 Streets and Markets 200 63, 65, 66
Postal services 227 Queen Victoria Statue Rockwall 119
Poste restante 227 Street-by-Street map 80 Rollerblading see Inline Skating
Post Office, General (GPO) 227 Quintus Servinton 24 Rowda-Ya Habibi (restaurant)
Postwar Sydney 30–31 191
Potts Point Rowe, Thomas 86
Street-by-Street map 118–19 R Roxbury Hotel, The 211
Powerhouse Museum 100–101 Radio 221 Royal Botanic Gardens 11, 57,
Sydney’s Best 34, 36 Railway Square YHA 173 104–5
Victorian Sydney 27 Rainfall 50 Royal Clock 82
Poyntes, Edward Ravesi’s on Bondi Beach (hotel) Royal Easter Show 50
The Visit of the Queen of 176, 178, 197 Royal Hotel 126, 197
Sheba to King Solomon 110 Reading Cinema 211 Royal National Park 164–5
Prada 205 Reclining Figure: Angles Aboriginal carving 21
Premier Cabs 237 (Moore) 110 Audley 164
Premier Motor Service 229 Red Eye Records 206, 207 Bundeena 165
Presbyterian church 221 Red Lantern (restaurant) 193 camping 170, 171
Preston, Margaret Reel Dance 213 Cronulla 165
Implement blue 110 Regal (restaurant) 188 Curracurrang 165
Western Australian Gum Regents Court (hotel) 175 Deer Pool 165
Blossom 110 Religious services 221 Figure Eight Pool 165
Primavera (festival) 48 Rendezvous Stafford Hotel 172 Forest Path 164
Prince Alfred Hospital 26 Republic of Ireland Embassy 221 Garie Beach 153, 164
Pro Dive Coogee 54 Restaurant Balzac 193 Hacking River 164
Public holidays 51 Restaurants 178–97 Heathcote 164
Public telephones 226 dress codes 179 Jibbon Head 165
Public Transport Info Line 230, eating with children 179 Jibbon Head Lagoon 165
231, 234 how much to pay 178 Lady Carrington Drive 164
Pubs and bars 196–7 licensing laws 179 Little Marley Beach 165
bars with views 196 opening times 178 Wattamolla Lagoon 165
blues 214, 215 reservations 178–9 Werrong 164
cabaret venues 214, 215 tax and tipping 179 RSL Cabs 237
gay and lesbian venues 214, 215 what to drink in Sydney 182–3 Rugby league 52
historic pubs 196 what to eat in Sydney 180–81 grand final 48
jazz 214, 215 where to eat 178 Rugby union 52
local favourites 197 The Revenge 22 grand final 48
rock music 214, 215 Riley, Edward and Mary 67 Rum
rules and conventions 196 RiverCat ferry 234 Corps (New South Wales
stylish bars 197 Robby Ingham Stores 205 Corps) 22, 23
tourist bars 197 Roberts, Tom Hospital 113, 114
Pukumani Grave Posts 109, 111 The Golden Fleece – Shearing Rebellion 23, 138
Pyrmont Bridge 98 at Newstead 109, 110 Ruse, James 139
Street-by-Street map 93 Rock Painting (Mowarljarlai) 88 Russell (hotel) 172
Rockpool (restaurant) 185 Rydges World Square 173
Rockpool Bar & Grill 186
Q The Rocks and Circular Quay
Q Bar (nightclub) 214, 215 63–77 S
Qantas Airways 228, 229 area map 63 Sailing 54, 56
history 30 city shoreline 59 Sailors’ Home 10, 37, 67
Quarantine regulations 220 Four Great Days in Sydney 10 Sailor’s Thai 185
Quarantine Station 133 history 23 St Andrew’s Cathedral 87,
Quay (restaurant) 185 hotels 172–3 212
Quay Grand 173 market 203 St Andrew’s Church
Quayside Booking Centre 235 restaurants 184–5 Balmain Walk 143
Queen Victoria Building (QVB) The Rocks Aroma Festival 51 St James’ Church 10, 115
16, 82 The Rocks Opal Mine 206, 207 concerts 213
arcades and malls 198, 199 Street-by-Street map 64–5 Sydney’s Best 38, 40
Street-by-Street map 80 Sydney’s Best 200 St John’s Cemetery 139
260 G E N E R A L I N D E X

St Mary’s Cathedral Sketch and Description of the Summer in Sydney 49

27, 40, 86 Settlement of Sydney Cove A Summer Morning (Bunny) 110
St Michael’s Golf Club 53 (Fowkes) 19 Summer Time (Bunny) 110
St Patrick’s Day Parade 50 Skygarden 81 Sunbaker (Dupain) 108
St Patrick’s Seminary 40, 146 Slip Inn 186, 214 Sunshine 49
St Philip’s Church 73 Sloanes (café) 194, 195 Surfing 54
Salute to Five Bells (Olsen) 76 Smith, Richard 27 Surf Life Saving NSW 54
Sandringham Garden 86 Smoking 218 Surry Hills 130
Sass & Bide (shop) 205 Snugglepot and Cuddlepie Susannah Place Museum 37, 40,
Scanlan & Theodore 204, 205 (Gibbs) 132 67
Schiele, Egon Sodersten, Emil 41 Sushi e 186
Poster for the Vienna Sofala (Drysdale) 108 Sushi Suma 191
Secession 111 Solander, Daniel 138 Sushi Train 195
Scruffy Murphy’s Hotel 197 Soup Plus 214, 215 Swell 195
Scuba diving 54 South Head 45, 148–9 Swimming 54, 223
Sculpture Southern Highlands 162–3 Swimming pools 55, 105, 144
Art Gallery of New South Berrima 162 Swiss Grand (hotel) 177
Wales 110 Berrima Gaol Swissôtel 174
Sculpture By The Sea 48 Berry 163 Sydney
Sean’s Panaroma 193 Bowral 162 Between the Wars 28–9
Sebel Pier One, The 173 Bundanoon 162 coat of arms 19
Seidler, Harry 41 Fitzroy Falls 162 getting around Sydney 230–37
Self-catering agencies 170 Kangaroo Valley 162 Sydney (Kingsford Smith)
Seven Shillings Beach 55 Kiama 152, 163 airport 228
Sewell, Stephen 210 Seven Mile Beach 163 airport information 229
Seymour Theatre Centre Specialist shops and souvenirs Sydney Airport Hilton 229
theatre 210, 211 206–7 Sydney Airport Stamford 229
S.H. Ervin Gallery 36 Spectrum 215 Sydney Aquarium 96
Shakespeare by the Sea 210, 211 Spencer, John 84 Street-by-Street map 93
Shangri-La Hotel 172 Spice Temple 187 Sydney Central YHA 170
Shark Bay Spinal Cord Injuries Australia Sydney City Council One-Stop-
beaches 54, 55 169, 170 Shop 220
Watsons Bay and Vaucluse Spirit of Australia 36 Sydney Cricket Ground 52
Walk 148 Sporting Sydney 52–5 Sydney Dance Company 213
Sharp, Ronald 76 Sportsgirl (shop) 204, 205 Sydney Entertainment Centre
Shelly Beach Spring in Sydney 48 52, 214, 215
beaches 54, 55 Spring Racing Carnival 48 Sydney Ferries Information
Manly Walk 146 STA Travel 219 Office 230, 234
Sheraton on the Park 174 Star City 210, 211 Sydney Festival 209, 211
Sherman Gallery State Library of NSW 10, 112 Sydney Film Festival 51, 210,
Street-by-Street map 125 Bookshop 206, 207 211
Ships see Boats State Theatre 82 Sydney Fish Market 131, 202,
Shopping Spree Tours 199 Street-by-Street map 80 203
Shops and markets 198–207 theatres 210, 211 Sydney’s Best 200
arcades and malls 198 State Transit Information and Sydney Football Stadium see
department stores 199 Ticket Kiosks 230 Aussie Stadium
further afield 199 Statues Sydney Gazette 23
how to pay 198 Flinders, Matthew 112 Sydney to the Gong Bicycle
markets 202–3 Mort, Thomas 72 Ride 48
sales 198 Prince Albert 115 Sydney Harbour Bridge 10, 33,
shopping hours 198 Queen Victoria Statue 80, 82 70–71
Sydney’s Best: Shopping Stonewall 215 BridgeClimb 33, 71
Streets and Markets Strand Arcade 84 city shoreline 58
200–201 arcades and malls 198, 199 history 28–9
tax-free sales 198 architecture 40 Sydney Harbour Tunnel 31
Sicard, François 86 Street-by-Street map 81 Sydney Harbour Week 50
Signal Station The “Strasburg” Clock 27 Sydney Helicopters 219
Watsons Bay and Vaucluse Streeton, Arthur 27 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race
Walk 148 Student Travel Association see 30, 49
Simpsons of Potts Point 169, 175 STA Travel Sydney Hospital 113
Singapore Airlines 229 Suez Canal (The Rocks) 64 Sydney Central Plaza 195, 198,
Sir Stamford Circular Quay 175 Sullivans Hotel 176 199
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 261

Sydney International Boat Show Tank (nightclub) 214, 215 Tourist information 218
51 Tank Stream 59 Central Railway Station 218
Sydney Jewish Museum 35, 37, Taronga Zoo 11, 134–5 Darling Harbour 218
121 Tasman Map 112 NSW Travel Centres 218
Sydney Mint see The Mint Taste on Sussex Lane The Sydney Visitor Centre 218
Sydney Half Marathon 50 (restaurant) 188 Traffic signs 236
Sydney Observatory 69 Taxis 237 Train
Street-by-Street map 64 water taxis 235 arriving by train 229
Sydney Olympic Park 138 Taxis Combined 237 CityRail 232–3
Sydney Opera House 74–7 The Tea Centre 195 Country and interurban 233
Bennelong Restaurant 75 Tebbutts Observatory 156 Countrylink Travel Centres
city shoreline 58 Telephones 226–7 229, 233
Concert Hall 75, 76, 212 Television 221 tickets 230, 233
design 77 Telstra Phone Centre 226, train information 229
disabled visitors 209 227 Tram see Metro Light Rail
Drama Theatre 76 Temperature 51 Transport Management Centre
Four Great Days in Sydney Tennis 52 237
11 Tetsuya’s 187 Travel information 228–37
history 30 Thai community 42 air 228
Information and booking The Mint 10, 25, 37, 114 bicycle 237
209 Theatres 210, 211 bus 228, 230, 231
Northern Foyers 74 Theatre Royal 210, 211 car 229, 236–7
opera, orchestras and dance Street-by-Street map 81 coach 229
212 36° Bar 215 departure tax 220
Opera Theatre 74, 76 Three Bathers (Kirchner) disabled travellers 220
The Playhouse 75, 76 110 ferry 230, 234–5
roofs 75 Three Mimis Dancing (Wagbara) getting around Sydney 230
Sydney’s Best 39, 41 111 guided tours and excursions
Sydney Philharmonia Orchestra 3 Weeds Restaurant 193 219
Choirs 213 Thrifty 236, 237 immigration and customs 220
Sydney Seaplanes 219 Thunderbolt, Captain 106 monorail 232–3
Sydney Swans 52 Ticketek 53, 208, 209 public transport 230–35
Sydney Symphony Orchestra sea 228–9
Ticketmaster 208, 209
209, 212, 213 State Transit Information and
Ticket-of-leave 22
Sydney Theatre 210, 211 Ticket Kiosks 230
Tickets
Sydney Theatre Company 69, student travel 219
booking agencies 208–9
210, 211 taxis 237
CityRail tickets 233
Sydney Tower 11, 83 trains 229, 232–3
composite tickets 230
Street-by-Street map 81 Transport Infoline 220, 230–31
discount 209
Sydney Town Hall 87 water taxis 235
ferry ticket machines 234
concerts 212, 213 Travelex 224
monorail 232–3
Sydney’s Best 38, 40 Traveller’s cheques 224
public transport 230, 231
Sydney Tropical Centre 104 Travellers’ Info Service 169, 170
Quayside Booking Centre
Sydney University 129, 130, Tribal Warrior 235
235
170 Tropfest 49, 211
Tidal Cascades Fountain
Sydney Visitor Centre 168, 170, Tulip Time Bowral 48
Street-by-Street map 92
218 Turkish community 42
Tilbury Hotel 11, 189,
Sydney Wildlife World 97 Tusculum Villa 40, 118
Sydney Youth Orchestra 212, 197
213 Time zones 220
Symphony Under the Stars 49 Tipping 219 U
Synergy 212 hotels 169 Uchi Lounge 192
restaurants 179 Ulm 29
Tivoli Theatre 27 United Airlines 229
T Tjapaltjarri, Clifford Possum and United Kingdom Consulate 221
Takeaway food 194 Tim Leura Tjapaltjarri Uniting Church 221
Talmage, Algernon Warlugulong 111 University of Sydney 129, 130,
The Founding of Australia 73 Toby’s Estate 170
Tamarama 195 Utopia Records 206,
beach 54, 55 Toilets 221 207
Bondi Beach to Clovelly Walk Tourism Australia offices Utzon, Jørn 39, 77
145 218 Utzon’s Tapestry 75
262 G E N E R A L I N D E X

V Walks (cont) William Street (Darlinghurst)

Vampire, HMAS 93, 95 Watsons Bay and Vaucluse 116
Vamps Bistro 190 148–9 Windsor Street (Paddington)
Vanguard, The 215 Walking in Sydney 230 Street-by-Street map 125
Vaucluse 148, 149 Waratah (Lewin) 23 Windsurfing 54
Vaucluse House 37, 136 Wardell, William 86 Winter in Sydney 51
history 25 Warlugulong (Tjapaltjarri) Winter Magic Festival 51
Tea Rooms 195 111 Wisemans Ferry 157
Watsons Bay and Vaucluse Warwick Witchery (shop) 204, 205
Walk 149 Street-by-Street map 125 Woodward, Robert 92
Vegemite 28 Watch House, The Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf
Verge, John 39, 120 Balmain Walk 143 57, 107
Vernon, WL 108 Water Bar 197 Wooly’s Wheels 237
Verona (cinema) 210, 211 Water taxis 235 World Series Cricket 31
Victoria Barracks 39, 40, 127 Waterman’s Cottage, The World War II 29
Victoria Room 197 Balmain Walk 142 Writers’ Walk 72
Victoria Street (Potts Point) 120 Watsons Bay 136 Wurrabadalumba, Jabarrgwa
Street-by-street map 118–19 beaches 55 Dugong Hunt 36
Victorian Sydney 26–7 guided walk 148–9
pilot boats 149
Victorian terrace houses 27
Waverley Cemetery Y
Paddington Street 126 Y Hotel 173
Street-by-Street maps 118–19, Bondi Beach to Clovelly
Walk 145 Yellow Bistro 189, 195
124–5 YHA Australia 170
Sydney’s Best 39 The Waverly 27
Weather 48–51 YHA Harbour View 172
Vidette Yiribana Gallery 10–11, 36, 111
Balmain Walk 143 Weiss Art 206, 207
Wentworth, D’Arcy 139 York, The (hotel) 174
Vietnamese community 42 Yoshii (restaurant) 185
Vietnam War 30 Wentworth, WC 136
Werrington 118 Young Alfred (restaurant) 184
View from the Summit (Earle) 24 Yulefest 51
A View of Sydney Cove (Dayes) Western Australian Gum
Blossom (Preston) 110 Yurulbin Point
22 Balmain Walk 143
Viewing platforms Westpac Museum 37, 68
ferry route map 235
Manly Walk 146 Westwood, Vivienne 101
Vintage Cafe on the Rocks 184 Whale Beach 55, 155
The Visit of the Queen of Sheba The Wharf Restaurant 185 Z
to King Solomon (Poynter) 110 Wharf Theatre 69 Zaaffran (restaurant) 188
city shoreline 59 Zambesi 205
Wheels and Dolly Baby 206, Zeta 197
W 207 Zibar (restaurant) 187
Wagbara, Samuel White, Patrick 30 Zilver (restaurant) 187
Three Mimis Dancing 111 Whiteley, Brett 31, 130 Zimmermann 205
Wake Up! (hostel) 170, 173 The Balcony (2) 110 Zofrea, Salvatore 76
Waldorf Apartment Hotel 174 Whitlam, Gough 31 Zoo see Taronga Zoo
Walks 141–9 Wildfire (restaurant) 185 Zoo Emporium (shop)
Balmain 142–3 Williams, Fred 110 204, 205
Bondi Beach to Clovelly Williamson, David
144–5 210
Manly 146–7 Williamson, JC 120
 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 263

Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Marie Bulat; the staff of Elizabeth Bay House; Historic
people whose help and assistance contributed to the Houses Trust; Lara Hookham; Info Direct, in particular
preparation of this book. Frank Tortora; Professor Max Kelly; Lou MacDonald;
Adam Moore; Museum of Sydney, in particular Michelle
Main Contributors Andringa; National Maritime Museum, in particular Jeffrey
Ken Brass grew up on Sydney’s Bondi Beach. He began Mellefont and Bill Richards; National Trust of Australia
his career in journalism with the Sydney Morning Herald (NSW), in particular Stewart Watters; Bridget O’Regan;
and later worked as a London correspondent before Royal Botanic Gardens, in particular Anna Hallett and Ed
becoming a staff writer on national daily newspapers in Wilson; State Transit Authority; Sydney Opera House, in
the United Kingdom. Returning home, he worked on the particular David Brown and Valerie Tring; Diane Wallis.
Australian Women’s Weekly, Weekend Australian
newspaper and Australian Geographic magazine. His Photography Permissions
photographs appear regularly in Australian magazines. Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all those who
gave permission to photograph at various cathedrals,
Kirsty McKenzie grew up on a sheep station in outback churches, museums, restaurants, hotels, shops, galleries
Queensland. She entered journalism after completing an and other sights too numerous to thank individually.
arts degree. After making Sydney her home in 1980, she
worked on a number of lifestyle and travel publications. Picture Credits
Since becoming a freelance writer in 1987, she has t = top; tl = top left; tlc = top left centre; tc = top centre;
regularly contributed to food, interior design and travel trc = top right centre; tr = top right;
magazines. cla = centre left above; ca = centre above; cra = centre
right above; cl = centre left; c = centre;
Additional Text and Research cr = centre right; clb = centre left below;
Angus Cameron, Leith Hillard, Kim Kitson, Siobhán cb = centre below; crb = centre right below;
O’Connor, Rupert Dean. bl = bottom left; b = bottom; bc = bottom centre; bcl =
bottom centre left; br = bottom right;
Additional Photography brb = bottom right below; d = detail.
Claire Edwards, Leanne Hogbin, Esther Labi, Siobhán
O’Connor, Ian O’Leary, Carol Wiley. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders.
Dorling Kindersley apologizes for any unintentional
Additional Illustrations omissions and would be pleased, in such cases, to add an
Leslye Cole, Stephen Conlin, Jon Gittoes, Steve Graham, acknowledgment in future editions.
Ray Grinaway, Helen Halliday, David Kirshner, Alex
Lavroff, Iain McKellar, Chris Orr, Oliver Rennert. Works of art have been reproduced with the permission
of the following copyright holders:
Additional Cartography © MUSEUM OF SYDNEY 1996: Edge of the Trees Janet Laurence
Land Information Centre, Sydney. and Fiona Foley, on the site of FIRST GOVERNMENT HOUSE:
Dorling Kindersley Cartography, Sydway. 34tr, 85b.

Editorial and Design The publisher would like to thank the following
DEPUTY EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Douglas Amrine individuals, companies and picture libraries for their kind
DEPUTY ART DIRECTORS Gillian Allan, Gaye Allen permission to reproduce their photographs:
MAP CO-ORDINATORS Michael Ellis, David Pugh
PRODUCTION David Proffit ACP: 29cb, 30bc; ALAMY IMAGES: Network Photographers
PICTURE RESEARCH Wendy Canning, 180cl; Travel-shots 181t, 234cla; David Wall 181c;
DTP DESIGNER Leanne Hogbin Worldwide Picture Library 10b; ART GALLERY OF NEW SOUTH
MAPS Gary Bowes, Fiona Casey, Casper Morris, Anna WALES: Portrait of Arthur Streeton (date unknown) Grace
Nilsson, Christine Purcell, Richard Toomey (Era- Joel oil on canvas on hardboard, 55.6 x 40.7 cm, gift of
Maptec Ltd) Miss Joel 1925: 27cb; © Bundanon Trust 1996 The
Editorial and Design Assistance: Emma Anacootee, Charis Expulsion 1947–48 Arthur Boyd (1920–), oil on hardboard
Atlas, Vandana Bhagra, Jenny Cattell, Sherry Collins, 99.5 x 119.6 cm: 33c; © Ms Stephenson-Meere 1996
Stephanie Driver, Mariana Evmolpidou, Joy Fitzsimmons, Australian Beach Pattern 1940 Charles Meere (1890–1961)
Clare Forte, Anna Freiberger, Emily Green, Vinod Harish, oil on canvas 91.5 x 122 cm: 35tl; © estate of the artist,
Gail Jones, Lisa Kosky, Esther Labi, Jim Marks, Sam courtesy Andindilkawa Land Council Dugong Hunt (1948)
Merrell, Rebecca Milner, Kylie Mulquin, Rachel Neustein, Jabarrgwa (Kneepad) Wurrabadalumba natural pigments
Louise Parsons, Helen Partington, Alok Pathak, Marianne on bark 46 x 95cm, gift of the COMMONWEALTH GOVERNMENT
Petrou, Clare Pierotti, Azeem Siddiqui, Rachel Symons, 1956: 36b; Bridge Pattern Harold Cazneaux (1878–1953),
Tracey Timpson, Ros Walford, Dora Whitaker, Carol gelatin silver photograph 29.6 x 21.4 cm, gift of the
Wiley. Cazneaux family 1975: 58bc(d); © AGNSW 1996 Sofala
1947 Russell Drysdale (1912–81), oil on canvas on
Index hardboard 71.7 x 93.1 cm 108bl; Sunbaker (1937) Max
Jenny Cattell. Dupain (1911–92), gelatin siver photograph, 37.9 x 42.8
cm: 108cl; Mars and the Vestal Virgin 1638 Jacques
Special Assistance Blanchard 108cr; © Tiwi Design Executive 1996
Art Gallery of New South Wales, in particular Sherrie Pukumani Grave Posts, Melville Island 1958 various artists,
Joseph; Australian Museum, in particular Liz Wilson; Ann- natural pigments on wood 165.1 x 29.2 cm, gift of Dr
264 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

Stuart Scougall 1959: 109tc; A pair of tomb guardian 25tl, 25ca(d), 25bl(d), 26cr, 26bc, 26br, 27tl, 27br, 29ca(d),
figures (early 7th-century earthenware), each figure 93 x 29blb, 31cb, 44tl, 71cra, 112tl; DAVID MOORE: 30cla; MULTIPLEX
39 x 23 cm, AGNSW FOUNDATION PURCHASE 1990: 109cra; PROPERTY SERVICES: 98c; MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, SYDNEY:
The Golden Fleece (1894) Tom Roberts (1856–1931), oil on 34cl; NATIONAL LIBRARY OF AUSTRALIA, CANBERRA: 24tl, 24cla,
canvas, 104 x 158.7 cm: 109bc; Natives on the Ouse River, 25brb(D), 27bc; NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM: 22cl, 36tl, 95
Van Diemen’s Land 1838 John Glover, 109crb; DACS, Cra; Nature Focus: Kevin Diletti 47br(D); John Fields 44bl;
London 2006 Study for Self Portrait 1976 Francis Bacon Pavel German 47tr; OLYMPIC CO-ORDINATOR AUTHORITY: 139t/b.
(1901–92), oil and pastel on canvas 198 x 147.5 cm: 110tr;
© Wendy Whiteley 1996 The Balcony 2 1975 Brett PARLIAMENT HOUSE: The Hon Max Willis, RFD, ED, LLB, MLC,
Whiteley (1939–92), oil on canvas 203.5 x 364.5 cm: 110bl; President, Legislative Council, Parliament of New South
Three Bathers 1913 Ernst Ludwig Kirchner 110tr; The Wales. The Hon J Murray, MP, Speaker, Legislative
Curve of the Bridge 1928-9 Grace Cossington Smith 110cla, Assembly, Parliament of New South Wales. Artist’s original
© reproduced by courtesy of Aboriginal Artists Agency sketch of the historical painting in oils by Algernon
Warlugulong 1976 Clifford Possum Tjapaltjarri (1932–) Talmage, RA, The Founding of Australia. Kindly loaned to
and Tim Leura Tjapaltjarri (1939–84), synthetic polymer the Parliament of New South Wales by Mr Arthur Chard of
paint on canvas 168.5 x 170.5 cm: 111tr; Poster for the Adelaide: 73bl; Parramatta City Council: S. Thomas 42tr;
Vienna Secession 49th Exhibition (1918) Egon Schiele PHOTOLIBRARY.COM: David Messent 11b, 229tl; POWERHOUSE
(1890–1918), colour lithograph, 67.8 x 53.7 cm: 111bl; MUSEUM: 22tl, 23br, 24bcb, 26tl, 28tl, 28cla, 28cb, 28bc,
AUSTRALIAN INFORMATION SERVICE: 31tl(d); AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM: 29crb, 29bc, 34t, 34br; 100clb, 100tr, John-Francois
C. Bento 20tl, 20clb, 20cb, 21tl, 21c, 21crb; 35bl; 89cr, Lanzarone 100cla; Penelope Clay 100tl; Sue Stafford 101t;
89cra; AUSTRALIAN PICTURE LIBRARY: John Carnemolla 30clb. Tyrrell Collection 106tc; Reproduced with permission from
RAILCOP NSW AUSTRALIA: 233tr; THE ROCKS DISCOVERY MUSEUM:
GREG BARRETT: 209bc; BARTEL PHOTO LIBRARY: 160bc; MERVYN 65tl; ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS: Jaime Plaza 48bl.
G BISHOP: 22crb; BRUCE COLEMAN: John Cancalosi 45bc;
Francisco Futil 44tr; BRIDGECLIMB SYDNEY: 71tl; Bula’bula Arts: SIMON JOHNSON PURVEYOR OF QUALITY FOODS: 221bl; SOUTHCORP
Tony Dhanyula Nyoka (Mud Crabs), circa 1984, ochres and WINES EUROPE: 183tr; STATE LIBRARY OF TASMANIA: 22clb;
synthetic polymer on bark, J.W. Power Bequest, purchased Stopmotion: 160tr; SUZIE THOMAS PUBLISHING: Thomas O’flynn
1984 by the MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, SYDNEY: 34clb. 74bc, © DACS, London 2006, 76clb; SUPERSTOCK:Digital
BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY: private collection Ned Kelly, Outlaw Vision 10cl; SYDNEY ATTRACTIONS GROUP: 96br, 97cl; SYDNEY
(1946), oil on panel, Sir Sidney Nolan (1917–92) 31ca; FILM FESTIVAL: 51clb, SYDNEY FREELANCE: J Boland 49cl; SYDNEY
BOTANICAL GARDENS TRUST, SYDNEY: 104cla; CENTREPOINT JEWISH MUSEUM: 35br; SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE TRUST: 74tr, 74cla,
MANAGEMENT: 83br; COO-EE HISTORICAL PICTURE LIBRARY: 9ca, 75tc, 75br, 75bl, 76br, 77cla, 77ca, 77cra, 77c; SYDNEY
61ca, 151ca, 167ca, 217ca; Corbis: E. O. Hoppé 65cra; Paul THEATRE: 208cl; SYDNEY WILDERNESS TOURS: 152tr; SYDNEY
Souders 10tc; ANTHONY CRICKMAY: 76cla; David Jones WILDLIFE WORLD: 97cb, 97tl; Willi Ulmer Collection 77bc;
(Australia) P/l: 25crb(D); RUPERT DEAN: 182cl, 182crb; TARONGA ZOO: 134tr; TEBUTT’S VII RESTAURANT AND FUNCTION
Dixson Galleries, STATE LIBRARY OF NEW SOUTH WALES: 8–9, CENTRE:156clb; TELSTRA: 226c, VINTAGE ESTATES: 159cl; WESTPAC
20tr, 22blb(D), 26cla, 70tr, 138br; MAX DUPAIN: 77br; FAIRFAX BANKING CORPORATION: 68br; YALUMBA WINES: 182cra.
PHOTO LIBRARY: 28bl; 52ca; 71bra; 114cl(d); 77tc; ASCUI
51br; Dallen 31cra; Gerrit Fokkema 30br; Ken James 209tr; Jacket - Front: Sergio Pitamitz:
McNeil 120bl; White 43bl; GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE www.photographers direct.com main image;
COLLECTION, STATE OF NEW SOUTH WALES: 26clb, 28clb, 76blb; DK Images: Siobhan O’Connor bl. Back: DK Images: clb;
GREAT SYNAGOGUE, SYDNEY: 86tl; HAPPY MEDIUM PHOTOS: 43tc; Max Alexander cla; Rob Reichenfeld bl; Alan Williams tl.
C MOORE HARDY: 208br; courtesy of HILTON INTERNATIONAL: Spine: DK Images: b; Sergio Pitamitz:
168cl; HOOD COLLECTION, STATE LIBRARY OF NEW SOUTH WALES: www.photographersdirect.com
71bl, 137br(D); HUGOS GROUP: 178bl; JUSTICE AND POLICE
MUSEUM: Ray Joyce 34cla. LAKE’S FOLLY VINEYARDS:159cr; All other images © Dorling Kindersley.
LEONARDO MEDIABANK: 168br; LEURA GARDENS FESTIVAL INC,: For further information see: www.dkimages.com
48cr; LIBERTY WINES: 158cla; LONLEY PLANET IMAGES: Juliet
Coombe 11t; Courtesy LUNA PARK TRUST: 129tc; 132cl, 132tc;
MAZZ IMAGES: 30–31; MINC COMMUNICATIONS PTY LTD;: Earl
Carter Photography 178cr; MEDUSA HOTEL: 171t; MITCHELL
LIBRARY, STATE LIBRARY OF NEW SOUTH WALES: 21br, 21bcb,
22br(d), 22–3, 23tl, 23ca(d), 23cb, 24clb(d), 24cb(d), 24bl,

DORLING KINDERSLEY SPECIAL EDITIONS

DK Travel Guides can be purchased in bulk To find out more, please contact:
quantities at discounted prices for use in (in the United States) [email protected]
promotions or as premiums.
(in the UK) [email protected]
We are also able to offer special editions and
personalized jackets, corporate imprints, and (in Canada) DK Special Sales at
excerpts from all of our books, tailored [email protected]
specifically to meet (in Australia)
your own needs. [email protected]