Black & Decker. The Complete Guide To Garden Walls & Fences (PDFDrive)
Black & Decker. The Complete Guide To Garden Walls & Fences (PDFDrive)
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M INNEAPOLIS. MINNESOTA
www.creati\re pub.com
Copyright © 2010 PresidenUCEO: Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc. VP for Sales & Marketing: Kevin Hamric
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10987654321 Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
Art Direction/Design: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer, James Kegley
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
lead Photographer: Joel Schnell
The complete guide to garden walls & fences: improve backyard Set Builder: James Parmeter
environments, enhance privacy & enjoyment, define space & Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls
borders.
p.em. Page layout Artist: Danielle Smith
"Created by the editors of Creative Publishing International, Inc
Shop Help: Charles Boldt
incooperation with Black & Decker."
Includes index. Edition Editor: Phillip Schmidt
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-519-9 (soft cover) copy Editor Betsy Matheson
ISBN-10: 1-58923-519-3 (soft cover) Proofreader: Kristen Olson
1. Fences. 2. Garden structures. 3. Retaining walls. 4. walls. I.
Creative Publishing International. II. Black & Decker Corporation
(Towson, Md.)
TH4965.C652010
690'.89--dc22
2009048792
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The Publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects In this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for ali do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to
your project.
Contents
The Complete Guide to
Garden Walls & Fences
Introduction . .. ... ... .. ... ... ... . . . .. . . . .. . . . ... . .5
Gallery of Garden w alls & Fences .. .. . . . . ..• .. ... . . . . .6
Introduction
S troll through an y residential ne ighborhood and yo u're bound to see at least a doze n different styles of fen c in g
and garden wa lls built \"lit h nea rl y as many different material s. If YO Ll pause to admire the look of a fe nce
or \,va ll , consider hm,v it enhances (or de tracts from ) th e hOllse and grounds. vVhat do the homeovmers achieve
by adding the fen ce or wa ll to the ya rd ? Perhaps the fen ce adds privacy for a backya rd patio or sec urity for a
sv.rimming pool or play area. Or, maybe it c re ates a de corative boundary li ne, ad din g cu rb ap pea l.
As a passerby, \v hat does the fence or wa ll do for you? Does it make you feel welcome or j ust th e opposite?
Does it direc t visito rs to a front e ntra nce? Does it co mplement th e hOll se in the backg round o r s impl y o bsc ure it
from view? These a re the kinds of que s tions you' ll be asking you rself w hen it's tim e to brainstorm about yo u r new
fence or \va ll project. I n othe r wo rds , there's more to th e pl an ning process than c hoosing a style and mate rial s.
For sta rte rs , it's helpful to think of wa ll s and fe nces as more than j us t borde rs and barri e rs ; indeed, th ey ca n
be pm.ve rful des ign tools. To apprec iate w hat a wa ll or fe nce cun do for yo ur outdoor s paces, think for a mo ment
a bout th e ma ny us es of wa ll s inside yo ur home. \t\fa lls a re th e primary building blocks of every floo r pla n . They
c re ate rooms out of e mpty s pace . They make pri vate areas priva te a nd turn wide-o pen s paces into more usable,
comfortable zones . They direc t traffic throu gh the house an d serve as bac kdrop s for furniture a nd de corations .
An d finally, wi th th e help of w indows, wa lls shape and e nh ance yo ur views of th e outside wo rld .
Outdoor \,va ll s a nd fenc es can have the sa me tran sformati ve e ffec ts. A tall , so lid fen ce instan t ly provides
pri vacy and a se nse of sec urity and e nclos ure, c rea tin g a pri va te have n w ithi n its borde rs. A n orna me ntal me ta l
fe nce adds just as mu c h sec urity with o ut a visual ba rri e r. Both fe nces an d low wa lls ca n direc t traffi c-from the
s tree t to th e front door, aro und th e hou se to th e bac kyard , or into and aro und a ga rd e n. \l\1alls make \vo nderful
bac kdrops for a ll kinds of ornamenta l p la nts , and th ey' re g reat for d e fining patio spaces an d othe r seating or
entertaining areas. A nd \vith just th e right amount of open s pace, a wa ll , fence, or ga te can offer tanta lizing
glimpses of vv hClt li es beyo nd , adding a se nse of mystery to a colorful f]m,ve r gu rd e n or a s tunning view in
th e di s tance .
\;Vhateve r look and fun c ti ons you have in mind , this book \·vill he lp yo u c hoose the ri ght mate rial s a nd
produc ts a nd s how yo u how to tac kl e the job from start to fini sh. You 'lI lcarn traditiona l building tec hnique s,
li ke bricklaying and dry-stacking wa ll stones, as we ll as installation s teps fo r the newest prefab fencing products,
including wood composite a nd ornamental me tal fences. Your options are \vide open- kee p that in mind th e next
tim e you're out on an "ins piratio nal" stroll thro ugh the ne ighbo rh ood.
• 5
Gallery of Garden Walls & Fences
Utilitarian by design, yet pleasing to the eye, the post and board fence evokes the uncomplicated beauty and peacefulness
of rolling countryside. The same effect holds true in suburban settings.
Simple embellishments can add a great deal of character to a standard wood privacy fence. YOU can easily trim the tops of your
siding boards after the fence is up, using a jigsaw Here, the fence posts were given prominence to punctuate the rhythm of the
wave effect and provide a structural element for the composition.
The gate is a prime opportunity for adding character and The right fence material makes all the difference.
charm. This beautiful arbor gate not only makes for a grand Ornamental metal's clean lines and permanence are the
portal, It adds another dimension to the fence and provides a perfect complement to this home's spare detailing and formal
welcome contrast to the bold pattern of the lattice panels. character. Using similar metal materials for the balcony,
handrail, and fence unifies the look of the whole property.
• 9
Bamboo's exceptional strength and light weight make Poured concrete might not be the first material that comes
it suitable for infill on gates and other fence features that take to mind when dreaming of a new garden wall, but it's certainly
a beating. This bamboo gate was built with the same structure worth consideration. The versatility of concrete can inspire all
and materials as the fence for a nicely integrated look. sorts of custom creations, such as this retaining wall with a
traditional frame-and-panel effect.
A mortared block retaining wall provides for easy passage along the edge of this lavishly planted property. Opposite the wall, a
split-cedar post and rail fence creates a clear border as it complements the view of the wooded area beyond.
The classic picket fence IS the perfect example of how a low, decorative fence or wall separates a property from the outside
world while at the same time it enhances the view of all that lies within its boundary
- ~-
Whether it's gathered right from the surrounding ground vinyl fences today are usually guaranteed for decades not to
or shipped to you on a pallet, stone is nature's ideal building rot, warp, or discolor. They are made with a plastic compound .
block for garden creations. A dry-stacked wall like this is a
great do-it-yourself project with a truly timeless history
Planning
& Basic
Techniques
W alls and fences are great dO-it-yourse lf projects,
bu t they often require a l ittle more pl an ning
than other ou td oo r improvements . Perh aps most
impo rta ntl y. you 'll nee d to ma ke sure you r nc\v
stru c ture will stan d wi thin you r prope rty lines. Ca re ful
p lan ni ng is also important for more persona l reasons,
slic h as making Slife the fini shed product meets you r
ne eds whi le add in g just th e ri ght to uch to yo ur house
a nd lan dscape.
'VVhc n it comes to th e design and layout phase
of the project, it's a good idea to v.'O rk thin gs ou t on
pape r, w he n mi stakes and miscalcu la ti ons can still be
corrected \vith an erase r and you 're free to run w ith
new ideas to sec where they take yo u . lVlap ping out
th e stru cture with dim e nsio ns is a lso in va luable for
vvarking up a n accurate mate rials list a nd estima tin g
costs. T he total cost of fencing materials, in pa rti c ular,
ca n be a big facto r whe n c hoosing a fence style
a nd mate ri a l.
In additio n to planning a nd materia ls informatio n,
this c hapter covers ma ny of th e basic const ruc tion
tec h niques esse nti a l to completing th e projects in thi s
boo k. You' ll a lso find tip s for wor kin g with spec ia lty
material s, like stone, brick, a nd pou red co nc re te.
In this chapter:
• Making a Plan • Mixing & Placing
• Handling Slope Mortar
• Laying Out Fencelines • Working with Concrete
• Setting Posts • Concrete Footings
• Working with Stone • Fence & Wall Materials
• Working with Brick • Tools
& Concrete Block
• 15
Making a Plan
Before you can even begin drawing plans for your depths of buried lines so you can avoid costly and potentialty
fence, wall, or gate, you need to research local building life-threatening mistakes. In many areas, the law requires
codes. Building codes Will tell you if a building permit that you have this done before digging any holes. Even if not
and Inspection are needed for a project. Some code required by law in your area, this step IS truly necessary.
requirements are designed to protect public safety, while A fence, wall, or gate on or near a property line is as
others help preserve aesthetic standards. much a part of your neighbors' landscapes as your own.
Codes may dictate what materials can be used, As a simple courtesy, notify your neighbors of your plans
maximum heights for structures, depths for concrete and even show them sketches; thiS will help to avoid
footings and posts, and setback distance or how far back strained relationships or legal disputes. You may even
a fence or wall must be from property lines, streets, or decide to share labor and expenses, combining resources
sidewalks. Setback distance is usually 6 to 12 inches and for the full project or on key features that benefit you both.
is especially important on a corner lot since a structure
could create a blind corner. A fence or wall may be built
directly above a property line if agreed by both neighbors
who share ownership of the fence.
If you find a fence, wall, or gate design that appeals
to you, but does not meet local ordinances, the municipal
authorities may be willing to grant a variance, which
allows you to compromise the strict requirements of the
code. ThiS normally involves a formal appeal process and
perhaps a public hearing.
Another thing to consider as you plan your project IS Consult your electric utility office, phone company,
the placement of any utility lines that cross your property. At gas and water department, and cable televiSion vendor
no cost, utility companies will mark the exact locations and for the exact locations of underground utility lines.
solid planning and careful execution allow you to turn a sloped yard Into a positive design factor when you bUild your fence or
wall project.
Stepped panels are horizontal, maintaining an even height Racking a panel involves manipulating a simple fence panel
between posts. A good strategy for pre-built panel systems, by twisting it out of square so the stringers follow a low slope
stepping fences is the only way to handle slope when while the siding remains vertical. Stockade and picket panels
working with panels that cannot be trimmed, racked, or are good candidates for this trick, but the degree to which
otherwise altered . you can rack the panels is limited. If the siding is connected to
stringers with more than one fastener at each Joint, you'll need
to remove some fasteners and replace them after racking
the panel.
Contouring creates a more casual, natural-looking fence. Bottom trimming creates a level fence line with a baseline
Each individual siding board is set the same distance from that follows the slope and contour of the land . On low slopes
the ground below and allowed to extend to full height without you can use this technique and trim the siding boards on
trimming. The resulting top of the fence will mimic the pre-made panels that have open bottoms (in some cases you
ground contour. can raise the bottom stringer). Bottom trimming is best for
site-built board and stringer fences, however.
Top stake
Intermediate stakes
, -
-~:- --1
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Contoured fences can follow ground with either a regular slope or an irregular slope. Place a stake at the beginning and end of
the fencel,ne and at each corner. Add intermediate stakes to maintain spacing when the slope changes.
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Stepped fences (inset) can be installed on either regular or Irregular slopes. To plan the fence, run a mason's string between stakes
or batter boards at the high end and the low end of the fenceline; measure the distance from the string to the ground at both ends,
then calculate the difference between measurements to find the total rise. DiVide this amount by the number of fence sections to
determine the stepping measurement for each fence panel. On irregular slopes, the amount of drop will vary from section to section .
TO install batter boards, drive a Stretch the mason's line from the Measure out from the starting paints
pair of short wood stakes a couple of batter board to the second pair of of the fenceline and mark post locations
feet beyond each corner or end of the stakes at the opposite end or corner of directly onto the layout lines uSing
rough planned fenceline. Screw a level the run. Draw the string tight, and level pieces of masking tape (don't forget to
crossboard across one pair of stakes, it with a line level. Mark the string's allow for the widths of your posts- see
about 6" up from the ground on the position onto one of the stakes. Fasten a tips below).
higher end of the fence ru n. Loosely crossboard to the second pair of stakes
tie a mason's string to the middle of so it is level and its top is aligned with
the crossboard. the mark on the stake. Tie the mason's
line to the center of the crossboard.
If your fence panels will be installed between fence posts (top photo) and TO find the on-center spacing
you are using 4 x 4 wood posts, add 4" to the length of the fence panels and use of gate posts, add the gate
that distance as the on-center span between posts (the 4 x 4 posts are actually width, the clearance needed for
only 3Y," wide but the extra Vi' created by using the full 4" dimension will create hinge and gate hardware, and
Just the right amount of "wiggle room" for the panel). If panels will be attached to the actual diameter of one post.
the post faces, add Yi' to the actual panel width to determine post spacing.
Drive a pair of stakes along a known fenceline and run a line that crosses the Draw one tape measure from the
corner post location (thiS line should stay fixed as a reference while you square the post location roughly at a right angle to
crossing line to it). Drive a stake 3 ft. out from the corner post location, on the line you the fixed line. Draw the tape beyond the
don't want to move. You will adjust the other line to establish the right angle. 4 ft. mark and lock it.
Angle the second tape measure from the 3-ft. stake Drive a stake at the point where the tape measure marks inter-
toward the 4 ft. mark on the first tape measure. The two tapes sect. Run a line for this stake to another stake drOien past the corner
should intersect at 5 ft. and 4 ft. post location to establish perpendicular layout lines. The string tied
to the second stake should pass directly over the post location.
Plot a right angle at the corner of the outline, using Tie a mason's string to each Y stake, and extend the
the 3-4-5 method (see page 24). Measure and drive stakes strings back to the corner stake (2). Hold the strings tight at the
equidistant from the outside corner to mark the starting points point where they meet Then, pull the strings outward at the
for the curve (labeled "Y" here). meeting point until they are taut Drive a stake at thiS point to
create a perfect square. This stake (labeled ''Z'' here) will be the
Pivot point for your string compass.
3
This stake equal distance from corners
Mark the curve: Tie a mason's string to the pivot point (Z) and to a can of marking paint When the string is held taut, the can's
spray nozzle should be even with the stakes at the start of the curve (Y). Keeping the string taut, spray the ground in a smooth are,
extending the curve between the two Y stakes.
Set batter boards at both ends of the fenceline. String Transfer the marks from the string to the ground, using a
a mason's line between the batter boards and level it. Mark plumb bob to pinpoint the post locations. Pin a piece of
post locations on the string with masking tape according to colored plastic to the ground with a nail at each post location.
your plan.
Dig postholes using a clamshell-type posthole digger (left photo) or a rented power auger (right photo). Posthole diggers
work well for most situations, but If your holes are deeper than 30" you'll need to widen the hole at the top to operate the digger,
so consider using a power auger. Make a depth gauge by tacking a board onto a 2 x 4 at the hole depth from the end of the 2 x 4.
As you dig, check the depth with the gauge. If you'll be filling the posthole with concrete, Widen the bottoms of the holes with your
posthole digger to create bell shapes. This is especially important In locales where the ground freezes.
(continued)
Mixing Concrete ~
For reasonably level ground, draw a mason's string from Wait at least a day for the concrete to set up and then
end post to end post at the height the posts need to be cut clamp a cutting guide to the posts (a speed square IS perfect).
(for custom fences, this height might be determined by your Cut along the trim line on each face of each with a circular
shortest post). Mark each post at the string. Carry the line saw to trim your posts (this is a great time to use a cordless
around each post with a pencil and speed square. circular saw). In most cases, you'll want to add a post cap later
to cover the end grain .
Ashlar stone walls: Area of the wall face (sq. ft.) ~ 15 = tons of stone needed
Rubble (or irregular) stone walls: Area of the wall face (sq. ft.) ~ 35 = tons of stone needed
Always add at least 10 percen t to your materials estimate when ordering stone. This provides some extra matenal for
practicing cutting and dreSSing techniques and allows for waste from miscuts and routine trimming.
Tie stones are long stones that span most of the width of a A shiner is the opposite of a tie stone-a flat stone on
wall, tying together the shorter stones and increasing the wall's the side of a wall that contributes little in terms of strength.
strength . As a guide, figure that 20 percent of the stones in a A shiner may be necessary when no other stone will fit in a
structure should be tie stones. space. Use shiners as seldom as possible, and use tie stones
nearby to compensate.
Lay stones in horizontal courses, With irregular stone, such as Use a batter gauge and level to lay up
where possible, a technique called untrimmed rubble or field stone, dry stone structures so the sides angle
ashlar construction. If necessary, stack building course by course IS difficult. inward. Angle the sides of a wall 1" for
two to three thin stones to match the Instead, place stones as needed to fill every 2 ft. of height-less for ashlar and
thickness of adjoining stones. gaps and to overlap the vertical Joints. freestanding walls, twice as much for
round stone and retaining walls.
Mark the stone for cutting on both Score along the cut line on the back Break the stone to complete the cut:
sides, using chalk or a crayon. If there Side of the stone (the side that won't be First, turn the stone over and rest It on
is a fissure nearby, mark your line there, exposed) by moving a stone chisel along a metal pipe or a 2 x 4 so the scored
since the stone will likely break there the line and striking it with moderate edge is directly over the support Then,
naturally. Note: To prevent unpredicted blows with a maul. AS an alternative, strike forcefully near the end of the
breaks when cutting off large pieces, you can do this step with a circular saw waste portion to break the stone along
plan to chip off small sections at a time. the cut line.
Keep structures as low as you can. Local codes require Add a lattice panel or another decorative element
frost footings and additional reinforcement for permanent to permanent walls to create greater privacy without having to
wails or structures that exceed maximum height restrictions. add structural reinforcement to the masonry structure.
You can often simplify your project by designing walls that are
below the maximum height.
Do not add mortar joint thickness to total project Test project layouts using %" spacers between masonry
dimensions when planning brick and block projects. The actual units to make sure the planned dimensions work. If possible,
sizes of bricks and blocks are %" smaller than the nominal size create a plan that uses whole bricks or blocks, reducing the
to allow for %"-wide mortar joints. For example, a 9" (nominal) amount of cutting required.
brick has an actual dimension of 8%", so a wall that IS bUilt
with four 9" bricks and %" mortar jOints will have a finished
length of 36".
.--
Score all four sides of the brick first with a brick set chisel When you need to split a lot of bricks uniformly and
and maul when cuts fall over the web area and not over the quickly, use a circular saw fitted with a masonry blade to score
core. Tap the chisel to leave scored cutting marks % to %" the bricks, then spilt them Individually with a chisel. For quick
deep, then strike a firm final blow to the chisel to split the scoring, clamp them securely at each end with a pipe or bar
brick. Properly scored bricks split cleanly with one firm blow. clamp, making sure the ends are aligned . Remember: wear eye
protection when uSing striking or cutting tools.
A brick splitter makes accurate, consistent cuts in bricks once the brick is in position on the splitter table, pull
and pavers with no scoring required . It is a good Idea to rent down sharply on the handle. The cutting blade on the splitter
one if your project requires many cuts. To use the brick splitter, will cleave the brick along the cutting line. Tip: For efficiency,
first mark a cutting line on the brick, then set the brick on the mark cutting lines on several bricks at the same time using a
table of the splitter, aligning the cutting line with the cutting drywaller's T-square or a framing square.
blade on the tool.
Mark cutting lines on both faces of use a mason's chisel and maul to Option : Cut half blocks from
the block, then score Yo to %" -deep split one face of the block along the combination corner blocks. Corner
cuts along the lines using a circular saw cu tting line. Turn the block over and split blocks have preformed cores in the
equipped with a masonry blade. the other face. center of the web. Score lightly above
the core, then rap with a mason's chisel
to break off half blocks.
Test the water absorption rate of bricks to determine Buttering bricks is the technique of applying mortar to
their denSity. Lower-density bricks can pull too much water the end of the brick before setting It into place. The basic
from the mortar before it has a chance to set thus weakening technique is to apply a heavy layer of mortar to one end of the
the mortar. Squeeze out 20 drops of water in the same spot brick, then cut off the excess with a trowel.
on the brick surface. If the surface is completely dry after 60
seconds, dampen the bricks with wate r before you lay them.
- - >
Empty mortar mix into a mortar box and form a set a piece of plywood on blocks at a convenient height,
depression in the center. Add about % of the recommended and place a shovelful of mortar onto the surface. Slice off a
amount of water into the depression, then mix it in with a strip of mortar from the pile, using the edge of your mason's
masonry hoe. DO not overwork the mortar. Continue adding trowel. Slip the trowel point-first under the section of mortar
small amounts of water and mixing until the mortar reaches and lift up.
the proper consistency. Do not mix too much mortar at one
time- mortar is much easier to work with when it is fresh.
Snap the trowel gently downward to dislodge excess "Furrow" the mortar line by dragging the point of the trowel
mortar clinging to the edges. Position the trowel at the starting through the center of the mortar line in a slight back-and-forth
point, and "throw" a line of mortar onto the building surface. motion. Furrowing helps distribute the mortar evenly.
A good amount is enough to set three bricks. Do not get ahead
of yourself. If you throw too much mortar, it will set before you
are ready.
TO mix by hand, empty entire contents of premixed concrete TO use a power mixer, fill a bucket with 1 gallon of clean
bags into a mortar box or wheelbarrow. Form a hollow in the water for each 60-lb. bag of dry concrete mix (most mixers can
mound of mix, and pour In 1 gallon of clean water per 60-lb. handle 3 bags at once). Pour in ';' of the water, and then add all
bag. Mix with a hoe, adding water in small increments as of the dry mix. Run the mixer for 1 minute. Add water in small
needed until the right consistency is achieved. Don't overwork increments as needed to reach the desired consistency, then
the mix. Note the total amount of water used as a reference mix for 3 minutes. Empty the concrete into a wheelbarrow, and
for the rema ining batches. rinse the drum immediately.
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concrete mix, usually sold in 40·, 60· or 80·lb. bags, contains all the components of concrete. You simply add water, miX, and place
the concrete. Several varieties are offered at most building centers. The most common are: general-purpose 4,000 psi mix (A), which is
the least expensive and is suitable for most do-it-yourself and contractor projects; sand mix (B) contains no large aggregate and is used
for shallow pours, such as pouring overlays less than 2" thick (that's why it's sometimes called topping mix); high·early strength mix (C)
contains agents and additives that cause it to strengthen quickly, achieving S,ooO PSI after 28 days. This mix is particularly appropriate
for patios, driveway aprons, and concrete countertops. Other common bagged concrete varieties include fast-setting concrete mix (0)
with initial set times under 40 minutes and used for setting posts without mixing; and crack resistant concrete mix (E), a fiber-reinforced
concrete mix with improved freeze-thaw durability characteristics.
Concrete additives include liquid colorant (F) that is added to the mix to produce vividly colored concrete; and acrylic sealer (G) to
promote curing by retaining water in freshly placed concrete.
s inki ng, a nd keep stru c tures from mov ing duri ng Rope or hose Drill
seasonal freeze-th aw cycles. CCi rpe nter's square Concrete mi.\:
Th e required depth of a footing is usually Tape meas ure Water
dete rmi ned by th e frost line, whi c h va ries by region. Mason's string 113 rebar
The frost line is the point nearest grou nd level Line level 16-ga uge wire
where t he soil does not freeze. In co lder climates, Spade 2 x 4 lumber
it is li ke ly to be 48 inches or deeper. Frost footings Sod cutter 3" sc re\vs
(footin gs designed to kee p st ruct ures from movi ng Straightedge Vegetable oi I or co mme rcia l
during freezing temperatures ) shou ld ex tend 12 Level release agen t
in ches below the frost line fo r th e area. Your local 'vVhee lba rrow Stakes
building in spec tor ca n tell YOLI the frost line de pth Shovel Eye and ear protection
for your area. C irc ular saw Work gloves
Reciprocating saw Fiber board
Float Construction ad hesive
Footings are required by Building code for concrete, stone, brick, and block structures that adjoin other permanent
structures or that exceed the height specified by local codes. Frost footings extend 8 to 12" below the frost line. Slab footings,
which are typically 8" thick, may be recommended for low, freestanding structures built using mortar or poured concrete. Before
starting your project, ask a building inspector about footing recommendations and requirements for your area.
For poured concrete, use the earth as a form. Strip sad from For brick, block, and stone, bUild level, recessed wood
around the project area, then strike off the concrete with a forms. Rest the screed board on the frames to create a flat,
screed board resting on the earth at the edges of the top of even surface for stacking masonry units.
the trench.
Wall wldth x 2
Make footings twice as wide as the wall or structure they Add tie-rods if you will be pouring concrete over the footing.
will support They also should extend at least 12" past the ends After the concrete sets up, press 12" sections of rebar 6"
of the project area. into the concrete. The tie rods will anchor the footing to the
structure it supports.
Make a rough outline of the footing using a rope or Strip away sod 6" outside the project area on all sides,
hose. Outline the project area with stakes and mason's string. then excavate the trench for the footing to a depth 12" below
Measure the diagonals or use the 3-4-5 method (page 24) to the frost line.
make sure the string layout is square.
Build and install a 2 x 4 form frame for the footing, Variation: If your project abuts another structure, such as a
aligning It with the mason's strings. Stake the form In place, house foundation, slip a piece of asphalt-impregnated fiber
and adjust to level. board into the trench to create an isolation joint between
the footing and the structure. Use a few dabs of construction
adhesive to hold it in place.
Mix and pour concrete, so it reaches Cure the concrete for one week before you build on the footing. Remove the
the tops of the forms (pages 40 to 41). forms and backfill around the edges of the footing.
Screed the surface using a 2 x 4. Float
the concrete until it is smooth and level.
ORNAMENTAL METAL
So ld in preasse mbl ed pa ne ls a nd prec ut posts
madc of steel, a lu minum, or iron, ornamenta l meta l
fe ncing has a di stinctive, forma l look reminiscent of
traditional \vrought iron fences. Most prod uc ts co me
p refinis hed \vit h to ugh, \veat he r-res istant coatings,
ma kin g m e tal fe nc ing one of th e 100"lest- ma intena nce
types you can bu y. S te e l a nd a luminum ve rsions
a re li ghter in weig ht a nd less ex pensive than iron
fe ncing and are readi ly avai lable t hrough hom e
ce nters a nd fe ncing s up pl iers. Iron fencing made
Always use galvanized or stainless steel hardware and fo r easy in sta llat ion is <Jvai la ble t hro ugh spec ialty
fasteners when building fences. manufac turers and di stribu tors.
WOOD COMPOSITE
Beca use it's made with wood fib e rs <Jlld plas ti c,
wood co mpos ite fe ncing may he conside red a n stone, brick, and block are timeless, sturdy fence-building
matenals that stand the test of tim e.
a lte rn a ti ve to both wood an d viny l fe ncing. An d it's an
enviro nme nta ll y fri e nd ly c hoice to boot. C om posite
fe nc ing can be made a lmos t e ntire ly from recyc le d
plast ic and recycled or re claimed \-vood mCi teria is (not c hoose hot-dipped ga lva ni ze d or stainless steel (not
cou nti ng me ta l brac ke ts a nd ra il stiffe ne rs). Like vin yl, alu mi nu m) whe n working with pressu re- trea ted
it \von't rot a nd neve r need s pain ti ng. Like wood , it has wood; wit h cedar an d redwood lumbe r, ga lvanized ,
a solid fee l and a no n-gla re fini sh. Compos ite fe nc ing sta inless steel, a nd aluminum fas te ne rs offe r corros ion
co me in ready-to -assembl e Izj ts a nd in stall s mu c h like res ista nce, b ut o nl y sta inless steel is gua ra nteed not to
ma ny vin yl Fe nce p rodu cts. di scolor th e \,vood .
VINYL STONE
Viny l fe ncing is po pular for its lo ng life, m inim al N atu ra l sto ne is a ti meless b u il d ing mate ri a l for
ma in te na nce requireme nts (esse nti all y none), a nd th e wa lls, offering unm atc hed beauty a nd d ura bility. C ut
fac t t hat it co mes in man y styles ba sed on traditi onal stone (call e d ashl ar) is th e best c ho ice fo r mos t wa ll
wood fe nce designs. As suc h, vi nyl is ge ne rall y a pplicatio ns. Its rel ati ve ly Fla t s urFaces ma ke it easy to
co nside re d a n a lte rn a tive to pa inted wood fe nc ing. stac k fo r a strong, unifo rm st ructu re. Othe r types of
Installat io n of th e var ious pos t-and-pa ne l fence sto ne for building incl ude fi e ldstone (na tura ll y sha ped,
sys te m s is re lat ive ly simp le, provided yo u fo ll ow the irreg ula r sto nes gat he red fro m fi elds) a nd rubbl e
ma nufac tu rers' inst ru cti o ns ca refull y. (lower-qu ality irregul a r sto ne pi eces used pri maril y Fo r
infill in stone wa lls).
BAMBOO
Bam boo occ u pies its O\v n ca tego ry because it's not BRICK & CONCRETE BLOCK
wood- it's grass- a nd beca use it has suc h a uniq ue C la y bric k a nd co nc rete bloc k a re e qu a ll y we ll suite d
decora ti ve quali ty tha t ca n turn any fe nce in to a to outd oo r wa ll projec ts. By itse lf, bric k is clea rly t he
co nve rsa ti o n piece. Most bam boo fe nces a re made more decora ti ve choice, whi le wa ll s made of bloc k a rc
wit h preassem bled pane ls (co nsisti ng of size- matc hed qu ic ke r to build (whe th e r morta re d or morta rl ess ) a nd
ca nes tied toge th e r with \,v ire ) set into a wood make a grea t foundation for deco rati ve fi ni shes like
fra mework. Yo u ca n a lso fin d ma teria ls fo r bu il di ng an stucco or ve nee r sto ne.
a ll -bam boo fe nce, or you ca n cover an existin g fence
with preassem ble d pa ne ls. Bam boo ca n be toole d an d LANDSCAPE BLOCK
fi n ished wit h ord ina ry too ls an d ma te ri a ls a nd is an La ndscape blocks a rc manufac tu red co nc rete units
enviro nme nta ll y fri e ndly mate ri a l. th a t come in seve ra l d iffere nt fo rms. All typ es
a re uniform ly sha ped a nd s ized , malUng th em
FENCE & GATE HARDWARE exce ptionall y easy to wo rk \\'1 th . I n addit io n to t he
All meta l ha rd\va re a nd fas tene rs used Fo r building fam ilia r bloc ks made spec ifica ll y fo r re tain ing wa lls,
fe nces must be co rros io n-res ista nt. T hi s incl ud es yo u can now buy building- type la ndsca pe bloc ks
hinges, latc hes, a nd bracke ts, as we ll as sc re\'vs, des igned for do- it-you rse lf wa lls, co lumns, ste ps,
na il s, a nd oth e r faste ne rs . Fo r fas te n e r ma te ri als, a nd p lante rs.
Landscaping tools for preparing sites for concrete projects include: power auger (A) for digging holes for posts or poles;
power tamper (8) and power sad cutter (e) for driveway and other large-scale site preparation. Smaller landscaping tools include:
pick (D) for excavating hard or rocky sOil; weed trimmer (E) for removing brush and weeds before digging; posthole digger (F) for
when you have Just a few holes to dig; come-along (G) for moving large rocks and other heavy objects without excessive lifting; and
garden rake (H) for moving small amounts of soil and debris.
Layout, marking, and leveling tools: Framing square (A), speed square (B), line level ICI, plumb bob (DI, post level lEI,
chalk line IF), landscape marking paint IGI, combination square IHI, mason's string (I).
In this chapter:
• Board & Stringer Fence • Chain Link Fence
• Wood Panel Fences & Gate
• Picket Fence • Trellis Fence
• Post & Board Fences • Bamboo Fence
• Split Rail Fence • Invisible Dog Fence
• Virginia Rail Fence • Brick & Cedar Fence
• Wood Composite Fence • Stone & Rail Fence
• Vinyl Panel Fence • Easy Custom Gates
• Ornamental • Arched Gate
Metal Fence • Trellis Gate
• 51
Board & Stringer Fence
Layout the fence posts, spacing them 96" on center, or Check the post alignment with a mason's string. Pull the
as desired (see pages 22 to 25). Dig the postholes 6" deeper string taut and make sure each post touches the line. Make
than the code-required depth. Add 6" of gravel to each hole any necessary adjustments to the post positions. Anchor the
and tamp it flat Position each post in Its hole, and brace it with posts with concrete, checking to make sure they are plumb
2 x 4 cross bracing so it is perfectly plumb. before the concrete sets (see pages 26 to 29) . Let the concrete
cure for 48 hours.
Mark the finished post height onto the end posts, Trim off the posts along the marked cutoff lines using a
12" below the planned height of the siding boards. Attach a chalk reciprocating saw or handsaw. Brush sealer-preselVative onto
line to the height marks on the end posts, and snap a cutoff line the cut ends of the posts.
across the Infill posts. (Board and stringer fences are usually
constructed so the siding boards extend above the posts.)
(continued)
At each stringer reference mark, use galvanized nails to Position a 2 x 4 stringer between each pair of fence
attach a 2 x 4 fence bracket to the sides of the posts. Brackets brackets. Hold or tack the stringer against the posts, then mark
should be flush with the front face of the posts. it for cutting by marking the back side along the edges of the
posts. (If the yard is sloped, stringers will be cut at angles.) Cut
stringers %" shorter than measurement so stringer Will slide
into brackets easily.
11
Install the remaining boards, leaving a gap of at least y," Install and finish a prebuilt gate, as shown in Tip, page 61.
between them (a piece of scrap hardboard or plywood works Finish the fence with a sealer-preservative or paint, as desired.
well as a spacing guide) . Check every third or fourth board
with the level to make sure it's plumb before fastening. At the
corners and ends of the fence, you may need to rip-cut boards
to fit
Building with wood fence panels is a great time-saver and allows you to create a more elaborate fence than you may be able
to build from scratch .
• •
•
F
=
on a sloped lot, install the panels in a step pattern, trying to Metal fence panel hangers make quick work of hanging
keep a consistent vertical drop between panels. It IS difficult panels and offer a slight amount of wiggle room If the panel is
to cut most preassembled panels, so try to plan the layout so up to y," narrower than the space between posts.
only full-width panels are used.
With some panel styles, the best tactic is to flatten the Setting all of the posts in concrete at one time and then
lower tab after attaching It to the post and then bend it up or Installing the panels after the concrete sets has advantages as
down against the panel frame once the panel is in place. well as disadvantages. On the plus side, this approach lets you
pour all of the concrete at the same time and provides good
access so you can make absolutely certain the posts are level
and plumb. On the downside, if the post spacing is off even a
little bit, you'll need to tnm the panel (which can be tricky) or
attach a shim to the post or the panel frame (also tricky). Most
panel manufacturers recommend installing the posts as you go.
Layout the fenceline, and mark the posthole locations with Dig the first posthole for a corner or end post uSing
colored plastic (Inset). Space the holes to fit the fence panels, a clamshell digger or power auger. Add 6" of gravel to the
adding the actual post width (3%" for 4 x 4 postsl plus '(." for hole, and tamp it flat. Set. plumb, and brace the first post with
brackets to the panel length. Tip: For stepped fences, measure cross bracing.
the spacing along a level line, not along the slope.
Dig the second posthole using a 2 x 4 spacer to set the Fill the first posthole with concrete or with tamped soil
distance between posts (cut the spacer to the same length as and gravel (see pages 26 to 29). Tamp the concrete with a 2 x 4
the stringers on the preassembled fence panels). as you fill the hole. Let the concrete set.
(continued)
Mark the second post for brackets. Set the post in its hole Reset the second post, slipping the ends of the panel
and hold it against the fence panel. Mark the positions of the stringers into the brackets. Brace the post so it is plumb,
panel stringers for installing the brackets. Remove the post and making sure the panel remains level and IS aligned with the
Install the stringer brackets, as before. fenceline. Fasten the brackets to the panel with screws or nails.
TO install a prefabricated gate, attach three evenly spaced hinges to the gate frame using corrosion-resistant screws
(left). Follow the hardware manufacturer's directions, making sure the hinge pins are straight and parallel with the edge of
the gate. Position the gate between the gate posts so the hinge pins rest against one post. Shim the gate to the desired
height using wood blocks set on the ground (right). Make sure there is an even gap (reveal) between the gate and the
latch post, and then fasten the hinges to the hinge post with screws (Inset).
set the posts for your project (see pages 22 to 291. Since Trim the posts to height. For level or nearly level fences,
spacing IS less critical for face-mounted panels than for inset mark the desired post height on the end posts, allowing for
panels, you can install all of the posts before adding the a 2" min. space between the bottom edge of the panels and
panels, if desired. Layout the posts according to the panel Size, the ground. Stretch a mason's stflng between the end/corner
leaving about y." for wiggle room . Note: Spaces before end, posts, and mark the infill posts at the string level. Cut the posts
corner, and gate posts must be smaller by half the post width, with circular saw, reciprocating saw, or handsaw
so that the end of the fence panel covers the entire post face.
Set the posts in concrete.
Position the first panel. To mark the height for all of the panels, run a mason's string between the end/corner posts to represent
the top of the top panel stringers. Use a line level to make sure the line IS level. Also make sure the panel will be at least 2" above
the ground when installed. Set the first panel onto blocks so the top stringer is touching the mason's string.
Install the remaining panels. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to install Variation : Face-mounted privacy fence panels may be
the rest of the panels. Tip: If any posts are off layout, resulting fastened to post faces through the panels' vertical frame
in a stringer joint falling too close to the edge of a post, add members. To use this technique, make sure the panel edges
a 24 "-long brace under the butted stringer ends; the brace are perfectly plumb before fastening, and butt the panels
should have the same thickness as the stringer stock. Add post tightly together (or as directed by the manufacturer).
caps and other details, as desired.
\\\\\
... -
A low picket fence adds curb appeal and a cozy sense of enclosure to a front yard or entry area without blocking views to or
from the house.
- l- I- f-
- - - - - I- - - r- r
- l- f-
- l- I- f-
-= '-- '-- - '-- '-- '-- -
Highlighting the posts (left) gives the fence a sectional look, and the rhythm of the pickets is punctuated by the slower cadence
of the posts. To create this effect, mount the stringers on edge, so the pickets are flush with- or recessed from- the front faces of
the posts. Hiding the posts (right) creates an unbroken line of pickets and a somewhat less structural look overall. This effect calls
for stringers installed flush with- or over the front of- the post faces.
Install and trim the posts according to your plan (see pages Mark the stringer positions onto the posts. Measure
22 to 29). In this project, the pickets stand at 36" above grade, and down from each post top and make marks at 8 and 28\1/' (or as
the posts are 38" (without the post caps). Set the posts In concrete, desired for your design). These marks represent the top edges
and space them as desired- but no more than 96" on center of the two stringer boards for each fence section.
(continued)
Cut the pickets to length using a power miter saw. To save Shape the picket ends as desired. For straight-cut designs,
time, set up a stop block with the distance from the block use a miter saw with a stop block on the right side of the blade
to blade equal to the picket length. Tip: If you're painting (the first pass cuts through the picket and the block). If the
the fence, you can save money by cutting the pickets from shape is symmetrical, such as this 90 point, cut off one corner,
0
12·ft.-long boards of pressure-treated lumber In this project, and then flip the board over and make the second cut- no
the pickets are 32" long; each board yields 4 pickets. measuring or adjusting is needed.
set up a string line to guide the Install the pickets. using a cleat Add the post caps. Wood post caps
picket installation. Clamp a mason's spacer cut to the width of the picket (with or without metal cladding) offer an
string to two posts at the desired height gap, set each picket in place and drill easy way to dress up plain posts while
for the tops of the pickets. Note: TO even pairs of pilot holes Into each protecting the end grain from water.
help prevent rot and to facilitate grass stringer. Fasten the pickets with 2" deck Install caps with galvanized or stainless
trimming, plan to install the pickets at screws. Check the first picket (and every steel finish nails, or as directed by the
least 2" above the ground. few thereafter) for plumb with a level manufacturer. Apply the final finish coat
before piloting. or touch-ups to the entire fence.
A low post and board fence, like traditional picket fencing, is both decorative and functional , creating a modest enclosure
without blocking views. The same basic fence made taller and with tighter board spacing becomes an attractive privacy screen or
security fence.
set the posts in concrete, following the desired spacing (see pages 22 to 29). LaYing out the posts at 96" on center allows for
efficient use of lumber. For smaller boards, such as 1 x 4S and smaller, set posts closer together for better rigidity.
Trim and shape the posts with a circular saw. For a Mark the board locations by measuring down from the
contoured fence, measure up from the ground and mark the top of each post and making a mark representing the top
post height according to your plan (post height shown here is edge of each board. The traditional 3-board design employs
36"). For a level fence, mark the post heights with a level string even spacing between boards. use a speed square to draw a
(see page 29). If desired, cut a 45 chamfer on the post tops
0
line across the front faces of the posts at each height mark.
using a speed square to ensure straight cuts. Prime and paint Mark the post centers on alternate posts using a combination
(or stain and seal) the posts. square or speed square and pencil. For strength, It'S best to
stagger the boards so that butted end joints occur at every
other post (this requires 16-ft boards for posts set 8-ft apart).
The centerlines represent the location of each butted joint
(continued)
Variation: This charming fence style with crossed middle boards calls for a simple alteration of the classic three-board fence. To
build this version, complete the installation of the posts and top and bottom boards, fallowing the same techniques used for the
classic fence. Tip: If desired, space the posts closer together for steeper cross angles. Then, mark long centerlines on the posts,
and use them to mark the angled end cuts for the middle boards. When Installed, the middle boards lap over each other, creating a
slight bow In the center that adds Interest to the overall look.
Cut and mark the posts. Cut the Create the notches. Make a series of Install the posts and boards. Set the
4 x 4 posts to length at 66". Clamp the parallel cuts between the notch marks posts In their holes and brace them in
posts together with their ends aligned, using a circular saw with the blade place using a level string to align th e
and mark the notches at 6, 9%,15%,19, depth set at '(,' . Clean out the waste notches (see pages 22 to 29) . Secure the
25, and 28W' down from the top ends. and smooth the bases of the notches posts With concrete. Prefinlsh all fence
with a chisel. parts. Install the 1 x 4 boards with 2"
deck screws (driven through pilot holes)
so their ends meet at the middle of
each post.
1• 6 Mite r joint bevels cut into the end of each board . All
scarf and miter Joints should occur over
I'/," ---+-~==C====~ 1.4
Top View-De tail the cen ter of a post.
1• 6
4 X 4 post
Install and mark the posts. Set Install the boards. For each infill Add the cap rail. Cut the cap boards
the 4 .4 posts in concrete with 72" bay, cut two 1 x 4S and three 1 x 6S so they will install flush with the Inside
on-center spacing (see pages 22 to to length. Working from the top of the faces and corners of the posts; this
29). Trim the post tops so they are level posts down, fasten the boards with creates a 1%" overhang beyond the
with one another and approximately 2W' deck screws driven through pilot boards on the front side of the fence.
36" above grade. Prefinish all fence holes. Use a 1W' -thick spacer (such as Fasten the cap pieces to the posts
parts. use a square and pencil to mark a 2 x 4 laid flat) to ensure even spacing with 3W' deck screws driven through
a vertical centerline on each post where between boards. pilot holes.
the board ends will butt together.
This beautiful. modern-style post and board fence Install the posts, spacing them 60" on-center (see pages 22
is made with pressure-treated 4 x 4 posts and clear cedar to 29) or as desired. Mark the tops of the posts With a level line,
1 x 3, 1 x 4, and 1 x 6 boards. To ensure quality and color and trim them at 72" above grade. Note: This fence design is
consistency, it's a good idea to hand-pick the lumber, and best suited to level ground. Cut the fence boards to length. If
choose S4S (surfaced on four sides) for a smooth, sleek look. desired, you can rip down wider stock for custom board widths
Alternative materials include clear redwood, ipe, and other rot- (but you'll have to sand off any saw marks for a finished look).
resistant species. A high-quality, UV-reslstant finish is critical to
preserve the wood's natural coloring for as long as possible.
Fasten the boards to the post faces using 2y," deck Add the battens to cover the board ends and hide the
screws or 3d galvanized box nails driven through pilot holes. posts. use 1 x 4 boards for the infill posts and 1 x 6S for the
Work from the top down, and use 'j,"-thick wood spacers to corner posts. Rip %" from the edge of one corner batten so
ensure accurate spacing. the assembly is the same Width on both Sides. Fasten the
battens to the posts with 3" stainless steel screws (other screw
materials can discolor the wood) .
A split rail fence looks great as a garden backdrop or a friendly boundary line. The rough-hewn texture and traditional wood
Joints are rem iniscent of homesteaders' fences bUilt from lumber cut and dressed right on the prope rty.
Determine the post spacing by dry-assembling a fence set up a string line using mason's stnng and stakes to
section and measuring the distance between the post centers. establish the fence's path, including any corners and return
Be sure the posts are square to the rails before measuring. sections. Mark each post location along the path using a nail
and plastiC tag.
Dig the postholes so they are twice as wide as the posts and Add 6" of drainage gravel to each posthole. Tamp the
at a depth equal to y, the total post length plus 6". Because gravel thoroughly with a digging bar or a 2 x 4 so the layer is
split posts vary In size, you might want to layout the posts flat and level.
beforehand and dig each hole according to the post size.
(continued)
Fill and tamp around the post. one layer at a time. Assemble the first section of fence by setting the next
Alternate between 4" of soil and 2" of gravel (inset), tamping post In its hole and checking ItS height Fit the rails into the
each layer all the way around the post before adding the next post mortises, and then brace the second post in place.
layer. Check the post for plumb as you work. Overfill the top Note: Set a/l the posts at the same height above grade for a
of the hole with soil and tamp it into a hard mound to help contoured fence. For a level fence, see Variation, right.
shed water.
Custom Details ~
Custom-cut your rails to build shorter fence sections. Gates for split rail fences are available from fencing
Cut the rails to length uSing a reciprocating saw and suppliers in standard and custom -order sizes. Standard
long wood blade or a handsaw (be sure to factor in the sizes include 4 ft. for a walk-through entrance gate and
tenon when determining the overall length). TO cut the 8 or 10 ft. for a drive-through gate. For large gates, set
tenon, make a cardboard template that matches the post the side posts in concrete footings extending below the
mortises. Use the template to mark the tenon shape onto frost line.
the rail end, and then cut the tenon to fit.
prior to t he adve nt of \·vire fences in th e late 1800s. J\/lason's strin g 9 -ga uge
All states with farmla nd cleared from fore sts had them Shovel ga lva ni zed vv ire
in abundance . The simplest fe nces were built with C lams he ll di gger Wood bloc ks
an ext reme zig-zag, and didn 't require posts. To save Diggi ng bar Tape measure
o n lumber and land, farme rs bega n st rai ghtening the Plie rs or wire cutters Leve l
fe nces a nd bu rying pairs of posts at th e rail junctu res. Large sc rewdri ver Scrap wood
Feel free to accommodate the ove rl apping rail fence Sledge hamm er Eye and ea r
in this project to su it yo ur tastes and needs . Inc rcase Rec iproca tin g sa\v protec ti on
the zig-zag to clim b roll ing grou nd, decrease it to stretch or ha nd smv \A/ork gloves
the fe nce o ut. Lapped ra il fences should be rn ade from Stakes
rot resista nt wood , like ceda r, loc Ll st, or cyprus. Split ceda r fence
For the most a ut hentic-loo king fe nce, try to find split, posts a nd rai Is
rathe r than sawn, logs. For longevity, ra ise the bottom rail MarlUng paint
off the grou nd with stones . Posts may even tu a lly rot below Stones
ground, but the inheren tl y stable zig-zag form should keep C lothes line or rope
the fe nce sta nding until you can rep lace th em.
The Virginia Rail fence exhibits a very familiar style to anyone who has spent much time In countryside that was cleared and
farmed in the 18th and 19th centuries. Since nails were scarce, these zig-zagging post and rail fences were popular because they
are held together with only wire or rope.
Rails stacked in
alternating pattern
to maintain level
Plan the layout of your fence by setting down three or four sections formed with single rails without posts. Set the ralls over a
mason's string, rope, or garden hose that represents the fenceline running down the middle of the fence. Experiment with different
angles of zigzag: more acute angles create a more stable fence over roiling contours, but this requires more lumber and takes up
more space. Also determine how much overlap you want at the rail ends. When you are satisfied with your layout, use a board
spanning across the open side of a fence section to measure the overall width, or path, of the fence.
Mark the fenceline with stakes and mason's string. Locate the posthole centers to coincide with the crossing
This will become the center of the fence's path. Then, using points of the rails. TO keep the posts in line, plot the postholes
the measurements taken from your layout, mark the ground along additional mason's strings representing the distance
on either side of the fenceline to represent the outer edges of from the fenceline to the rail crossing points. Make sure
the fence path. use marking paint or mason's strings to mark that the posts alternate from side to side with even spacing
the edges. throughout the fence run.
(continued)
Place two posts in each hole, Thread a rail through the post pairs, propping it up near the ends with rocks or
leaving enough room for a rail to landscape blocks. Cinch the top ends of the posts together with clothesline or rope
pass In between them . Hold the posts to keep them parallel. The rail should extend past the posts an equal distance at
plumb, and backfill the holes with soil, both ends.
compacting it moderately to allow
for some movement of the posts,
if necessalY
Tighten the wire with a screwdriver. Twist the wire tails Drive the posts in further, If necessary, to stiffen up the
around the shaft of a large screwdriver a few times, and post and rail junctures. Protect the tops of the post with a
then rotate the screwdriver in a circle (as if you're applying a wood block. YoU can also tamp around the posts with a digging
tourniquet) until the wire is tight and begins to bite into the bar to stabilize them. If necessary, trim the post tops of each
posts. Trim the wire tails and twist them under or drive them pair so they are even.
Into the wood for safety.
Composite fencing is manufactured with a blend of wood fibers and plastic resins. It is denser than vinyl fencing and available in a
wide range of colors and textures; some even replicate the look of real wood. The privacy fence above is from the Seclusions line by Trex.
Post brackets
Dig the postholes according to your fence layout (see Set the posts in concrete using a layout string to ensure
pages 22 to 25 for general layout steps). Be sure to follow the precise alignment of the post faces (see pages 26 to 29).
manufacturer's directions for post spacing. Dig the holes 12" Brace each post with cross bracing so it is perfectly plumb. Fill
In diameter and 30" deep (or as directed). Add 6" of gravel to around the post with concrete, up to 2" below ground level.
each hole and tamp it flat. Tamp the concrete with a 2 x 4 to eliminate air pockets. Let the
concrete cure for 24 to 48 hours.
(continued)
Set the stringer onto the bottom post Fasten the stringer ends to the post Trim the upper outside corner
brackets. Check the stringer with a level. brackets using the provided screws. of the first picket so it will clear the top
If necessary, remove the stringer and post bracket using a circular saw and
adjust the bracket heights (you may carbide-tipped wood blade.
have to adjust top brackets as well to
maintain the proper spacing).
Set the top rail over the ends of the Secure the top rail to each top post Add the post caps, securing them to
pickets until the rail meets the top post bracket, using the provided screws, the posts with galvanized finish nails or
brackets. driving the screws through the top of an approved adhesive. Tip: Some fence
the rail and into the bracket manufacturers offer more than one cap
style (inset).
vinyl fencing is now available in a wide range of traditional designs, including picket, post and board, open rail, and solid panel.
Color options are generally limited to various shades of white, tan, and gray
Layout the first run of fence with stakes and mason 's string. Position the string Dig the first posthole, following
so it represents the outside or inside faces of the posts (you'll use layout strings to the manufacturer's reqUirements for
align the posts throughout the Installation). Mark the center of the first post hole by diameter and depth (improper hole
measuring in from the string half the post width. dimensions can void the warranty). Add 4
to 6" (or as directed) of pea gravel to the
bottom of the hole and tamp It down so it
is flat and level using a 2 x 4 or 4 x 4.
Attach the fence panel brackets Set up a post-top string to guide the post installation. Using the post height
to the first post using the provided dimension, tie a mason's string between temporary 2 x 4 supports so the string IS
screws. Dry-fit a fence panel into the centered over the post locations. use a line level to make sure the string is level.
brackets, then measure from the top of Measure from the string to the ground in several places to make sure the height is
the post to the bottom edge of the panel. suitable along the entire fence run.
Add 2" (or as directed) to represent the
distance between the fence and the
ground; the total dimenSion is the posts'
height above the ground.
(continued)
Complete the fence section. Dig the hole for the second post, add gravel, and tamp as before. Attach the panel brackets to the
second post, set the post In place and check Its height against the string line. Assemble the fence section with the provided screws
(inset). Confirm that the fence panel is level. Brace the second post in place (as shown) and anchor it with concrete. Repeat the
same layout and construction steps to build the remaining fence sections.
Cut panels for short runs on sOlid-panel fencing Add the post caps. Depending on the product, caps may
(if straight along the top) per manufacturer's be installed with PVC cement or screws. or they may be fitted
recommendations. without fasteners. Add any additional decorative accessories,
such as screw caps, to complete the installation.
Post Infills ~
ornamental steel, aluminum, and iron fences come in prefabricated panels up to 6 ft. in height and 8 ft. in length, with
matching posts and optional decorative details. The most common color option is black (the better to mimiC the look of wrought
iron), but some products come in white, bronze, and other colors.
Layout the fenceline with stakes Mark the first post location with Dig the first posthole, following
and mason's string. Start at the corners, ground-marking spray paint. Assemble the manufacturer's specifications for
driving stakes a few feet beyond the panel onto the first post and align it depth and diameter. Shovel drainage
the actual corner so that the strings In the corner with the mason's strings. gravel Into the hole, and tamp it with
Intersect at 90" (as applicable). Mark a 2 x 4 or 4 x 4. Set the post in the
the approximate post locations onto the hole and measure its height above the
strings using tape or a marker. ground. If necessary add or remove
gravel until the post top is at the
recommended height.
Plumb and anchor the first post. Position the post Drill pilot holes for the brackets into the second post and
perfectly plumb using a post level. Brace the post with cross first panel. Align the fence assembly with the first post and
bracing. Use clamps to secure the bracing to the post. Fill the mark for the second post hole. Prepare the post hole as you
hole with concrete and let it set. did In step 3.
Spacing Posts ~
Measure and mark panels for cuts. Hold the panel up to the Cut panels to the appropriate length using a hacksaw.
final post in the run and mark the cutting line. Often. designs will as needed.
not accommodate full panels around the entire fence perimeter.
Chain link fencing is a strong, durable, and inexpensive way to create a barrier, increase your property's security, or keep pets
safely inside.
Tension band
Stringer
Tension bar
Terminal post
Tension wire
:i
.. !O Loop cap
." ~g4 co
Footing
Fittings are designed to accommodate slight alignment and height differences between terminal posts and line posts. Tension bands,
which hold the mesh to the terminal posts, have one flat side to keep the mesh flush along the outside of the fence line. The stringer
ends hold the top stringer in place and keep it aligned. LOOP caps on the line posts position the top stringer to brace the mesh.
Install the posts. Layout the fenceline, spacing the posts at 96" on-center (see Position the tension bands and
pages 22 to 29 for laYing out and setting posts). Dig holes for terminal posts 8" in stringer ends on the gate and end
diameter with flared bottoms; dig holes for line posts at 6" . Make all postholes 30" terminal posts, using a ratchet wrench
deep or below the frost line, whichever is deeper. Set the terminal posts in concrete to tighten the bands with the included
so they extend 50" above grade. Run a mason's string between terminal posts at 46" bolt and nut Each post gets three
above grade. Set the line posts in concrete so their tops are even with the string. If tension bands: 8" from the top, 24" from
desired, stop the concrete 3" below ground level and backfill with soil and grass to the top, and 8" above the ground (plus
conceal the concrete. Tip ' When plumbing and bracing posts, use duct tape to secure a fourth band at the bottom of the post
cross bracing to the posts. if you will use a tension wire). Make
sure the flat side of each band faces the
outside of the fence and pOints into the
fence bay. Also add a stringer end to
each post, 3" down from the top.
(continued)
Begin installing the stringer, starting at a terminal post Feed the non-tapered Measure and cut the last stringer
end of a stringer section through the loop cap on the nearest line post, then into section to fit to complete the stringer
the stringer end on the terminal post Make sure It's snug in the stringer end cup. installation. Measure from where the
Continue feeding stringer sections through loop caps, and join stringer sections taper begins on the preceding section
together by fitting the non-tapered ends over the tapered ends. If necessary, use a to the end of the stringer end cup. Cut
sleeve to join two non-tapered ends. the stringer to length with a hacksaw or
pipe cutter. Install the stringer
Set fence posts in concrete spaced Set the gate on the ground in the Secure the bottom male hinge to
far enough apart to allow for the width gate opening, next to the gatepost. Mark the gatepost with nuts and bolts. Slide
of the gate plus required clearance for the positions of the female hinges onto the gate onto the bottom hinge. Then,
the latch. Position the female hinges on the gate post Remove the gate and lock the gate in with the downward-
the gate frame, as far apart as possible. measure up 2" from each hinge mark facing top hinge.
Secure with nuts and bolts (orient nuts on the gatepost. Make new reference
toward the inside of the fence). marks for the male hinges.
Test the swing of the gate and adjust the hinge locations Attach the gate latch to the free side of the gate frame,
and orientations, If needed, until the gate operates smoothly near the top of the frame. Test to make sure the latch and gate
and the opposite side of the gate frame is parallel to the other function correctly. If you need to relocate a post because the
fence post Tighten the hinge nuts securely opening is too large or too small, choose the latch post, not the
gate post.
install the posts. Set the 4 x 4 fence posts In concrete, Trim the posts so they are 4" higher than the installed height
spacing them at 6 to 8 ft. on center. The posts should stand at of the chain link mesh. Mark the post height on all four sides of
least 4" taller than the finished height of the chain link mesh. each post, and make the cuts with a circular saw, reciprocating
See pages 22 to 29 for help with laying out your fenceline and saw, or handsaw.
Installing the posts.
Add 2 x 4 top stringers between each pair of posts. Mark Wrap tension wire around a terminal post. about 1"
reference lines 4" down from the tops of the posts. Cut each above the ground. Staple the wire with a galvanized fence
stringer to fit snugly between the posts. Fasten the stringers staple, and then double back the tail of the wire and staple ilto
with their top faces on the lines using 3" deck screws or 16d the post.
galvanized common nails driven through angled pilot holes.
(continued)
Unroll the mesh toward the other terminal post. and Attach the bottom edge of the mesh to the tension wire
then stretch the mesh gently with a come-along (see step every 2 ft, using hog rings tightened with hog ring pliers.
8, page 97). Secure the end of the mesh to the post with a Staple the mesh to the stringers every 2 ft and to the line
tension bar and staples, as before. Remove any excess mesh posts every 12".
by unwinding a strand (see page 97).
Privacy fabric tape cuts the wind and provides partial privacy. It's purchased in rolls with a limited number of color
options. It is relatively inexpensive, but threading it through the chain link mesh is time consuming.
Vinyl privacy slats create vertical lines and are easier to install than tape. They're available In a limited number of
colors at most building centers. Some varieties of strips also have a grass-like texture.
A trellis fence is a decorative way to incorporate minimal privacy. The basic Installation techniques shown in thiS project will allow
you to put your trellis to creative use. Shown here. the trellis ties into an arbor gate- a beautiful transition from yard to garden.
Post finial ~
Post finial }
Top stringer ) <
Post cap --1~1!.---\--- 4' 1" ----....;;r-[
- Post cap
./
1--0 1Post
,J Top stringer
'J }-I-'
1 x 4
vertical ....._"''''
frame
fJ l',Vt" stop
fool x 4 frame
%" thick
lattice
panel
,V2" lattice panel
-
Bottom
stringer
1 )( 4 horizontal frame
4 x 4 post
CROSS SECTION
set the four 4 x 4 posts in concrete, with their tops at Install the stringers. On each post, make a mark 72" down
least 84" above the ground, and space them 52'/," on·center from the 77" mark made in step one. Measure and cut each
(see pages 22 to 29 for help with laying out postholes and 2 x 4 stringer to fit between these respective marks on each
setting posts). On one of the end posts, make a mark at 77" post pair. Install the top stringer on top of the 77" mark, and
and 83" above the ground. Using a level mason's line, transfer install the bottom stringer on the bottom of the lower mark.
both height marks to all of the posts, and then mark all sides of The framed opening should measure 49" x 72" . Fasten the
each post with a square. Trim the posts at the 83" mark with a stringers to the posts with lOd corrosion·resistant casing nails
circular saw or reciprocating saw. driven through angled pilot holes.
...
-
••••
• ..
Add the stops to the back edges of the fence frames.
••••
••• •••
_-•..
prepare the lattice frames. Cut all of the 1 x 4 frame
Measure and cut the 1 x 1 stops to fit the framed openings. pieces, following the dimensions in the cutting list on page
You can miter the stop pieces or fit them together with simple 103. Assemble each back frame by butting the pieces together,
butt loints. Position the stops so they are flush with the back and measuring diagonally between opposing corners to
sides of the posts and stringers, and fasten them to the posts make sure the frame is square (frame is square when the
and stringers with 6d corroSlon·resistant finish nails driven diagonal measurements are equal). Cut the lattice panels at
through pilot holes. 48%" x 71%". Apply a wavy bead of construction adhesive
along the center of the back frame boards.
Add the post caps and finials. Cut the post caps from 1 x 6
lumber, making them 4'1," square. Center each cap over a post
and secure It with 6d finish nails. Mark the center of each cap
by drawing an x between opposing corners using a square or
straightedge. At the centerpoint, drill a pilot hole for a dowel
screw (a screw with coarse threads on both ends). secure the
finial to the cap with a dowel screw
Quality bamboo for fencing isn't hard to find , but you can't piek It up at your local lumberyard. The best place to start shopping
is the internet (see Resources, page 204). Look for well-established suppliers who are committe d to sustainable practices. Most
suppliers can ship product directly to your home.
Install and trim the 4 x 4 posts according to the size of your Install the top 2 x 4 stringers_Cut each stringer to fit
bamboo panels, setting the posts in concrete (see pages 22 snugly between the posts. Position the stringer on edge so it
to 29). For the 6 x 8-ft. panels in this project the posts are is flush with the tops of the posts and with the back or front
spaced 100" on-center and are trimmed at 75" ta ll (refer to the faces of the posts. Fasten the stringer with 3" deck screws
manufacturer's recommendations). driven through angled pilot holes. Use one screw on each edge
and one on the inside face of the stringer, at both ends.
Mark the location of each bottom stringer. The span Flatten the bamboo panels over the inside faces of
between the top of the top stringer and bottom of the bottom the stringers. Make sure the panels fit the frames on all
stringer should equal the bamboo panel height plus about 1". sides. USing a counterSink-piloting bit (inset)' drill a slightly
Cut and Install the bottom stringers in the same fashion as countersunk pilot hole through a bamboo cane and into the
the top stringers. Here, the bottom stringer Will be installed 2" stringer at a top corner of the panel. Fasten the corner with
above the ground for rot prevention. Unroll the bamboo panels. a 2" deck screw, being careful not to overtighten and split
the bamboo.
(continued)
Cover the top and bottom ends of Add the top cap, Center the 2 x 6 top cap boards over the posts so they overhang
the panels with 1 x 4 battens. These about 1" on either side. Fasten the caps to the posts and stringers with 3" deck
finish off the panels and give the fence screws. Use miter Joints for corners, and use scarf jOints (cut with opposing 30 0 or 45 0
a similar look on both sides. Cut the bevels) to join cap boards over long runs.
battens so the ends are flush against the
Inside faces of the posts and fasten them
to the panels and stringers with 2W'
deck screws driven through pilot holes.
Unroll and position a bamboo panel over one or both Fasten the panel with deck screws driven through the
sides of the existing fence. Check the panel with a level and bamboo canes (and fence siding boards, if applicable) and into
adjust as needed. For rot prevention, hold the panel 1 to 2" the fence stringers. Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws,
above the ground . Tip: A 2 x 4 laid flat on the ground makes it being careful not to overtighten and crack the bamboo. Space
easy to prop up and level the panel. the screws 12" apart, and stagger them top and bottom (see
pages 107 and 108).
Install the remaining bamboo panels, butting the edges Variation: To dress up a chain link fence with bamboo fencing,
together between panels for a seamless appearance. If the simply unroll the panels over the fence and secure them every
fence posts project above the stringer boards, you can cut the 12" or so With short lengths of galvanized steel wire. Tie the
bamboo panels flush with the posts. To trim the panels, follow wire around the canes or the panel wiring and over the chain
the technique shown in the Tip on page 108. link mesh.
zone
Warning Twisted Protected area
zone wire for
free passage
A perimeter layout uses a single run of wire encircling the Protecting areas within a perimeter boundary is
house and grounds. A single section of twisted wire runs from achieved by looping the wire around the area and returning
the boundary to the transmitter. Note: Twisting the boundary to the boundary. Twisting the wire between the boundary
wire around itself cancels the signal, creating a "free passage" and protected inner area allow for free passage around the
area for your pet. protected area .
Back-only
layout
Front-only
layout E
A front or back-only layout requires a doubled loop of wire Incorporating a fence into the boundary can help deter
to complete the boundary circuit Starting at the transmitter, your dog from Jumping over or digging under the fence. The
the wire encircles the containment area and then doubles wire can be fastened directly to the fence andlor can be buried
back, maintaining a 3 to 5-ft. space (or as directed) between in front of the fence. Burial allows you to protect gate openings.
runs to prevent canceling the signal. Run wires from the transmitter to A, A to S, S to C, C to D, D to
E, E to A, and then twist wire from A to transmitter.
I'"·.'
Plan the layout of the boundary wire . With a helper, use a 100-ft. tape measure Mount the transm itter on the inside
to determine the total distance of the wire run. Factor in extra length for twisted (free of an exterior wall, near a standard
passage) sections and for making adjustments. Order additional wiring, if necessary. 120-volt receptacle. The location can
Tip: Use the boundary flags that come with the kit to temporarily mark the comers be in the house, garage, basement, or
and other pOints of the wire route. crawlspace and must be convenient,
protected from the elements, not
subject to freezing temperatures,
and must be at least 3 ft. (or as
recommended) from appliances or
other large metal objects. Mount the
transmitter with appropriate screws.
3 I
Wall stud-j
I,' I
','
I T
II
II
II
II
. locatIons
WIre . ~I
I I I
I I II
-....._ _,___ _ _ _ _1 I II
Drill a hole through the wall for Begin running the wire along the planned route. Be sure to leave extra wire for
routing the boundary wire. The hole twisting at the termination point of the boundary (transmitter location), if applicable.
can be Just large enough to fit the wire Turn corners with the wire gradually, not at sharp angles.
(which will likely be twisted at this point;
see step 5, page 113). Alternatively, you
can route the wire through a window,
door, or crawlspace/basement-wall
vent, provided the wire will be safe from
damage. Identify stud and wire locations
before you drill but shut off electrical
power to be safe.
Splice together multiple boundary Seal inside and around the wire Fish the ends of the boundary wire
wires (required only when the boundary nut with silicone caulk to create a through the house wall (termination of
distance exceeds the length of wire waterproof connection and prevent the boundary run) using a straightened
provided with kit). Strip '/," of insulation corrOSion. When the caulk has dried coat hanger. Wrap the wire ends around
from the ends of both wires using a wire completely, reinforce the connection the fish tape bend and secure them with
stripper Hold th e ends together and join with electrical tape. Tip: Make note electrical tape. Once through the wall,
them with a wire nut, twisting the nut of each splice location, as these are twiSt the wires to provide free passage
on tightly. Tug on the wires to make sure the most common points of boundary from the house to the boundary line, as
they're held by the nut. wire failure. appropriate for your layout.
(continuedl
Lay the boundary wire into the slot, Cut slots into concrete or asphalt Option : Use eXisting control joints to
using a paint stir-stick to seat it into the driveways and walks using a circular pass the boundary wire over concrete
bottom of the slot. Be careful not to kink saw with a masonry blade. Vacuum the drives and walks. Control joints are the
or damage the wire. Carefully close the slot clean, and then lay the boundary shallow grooves formed in the concrete
slot by stepping along Its length with wire into the slot. Seal over the slot with to help control cracking. Clean and
one foot on either side of the slot. high-quality concrete or asphalt caulk or vacuum the joint, then lay in the wire.
patching compound. Cover the joint with concrete caulk.
pillars, to make SLi r e th e pi lla r spacing is accu rate. Jo inting tool or redvvood lumber:
Eac h pillar mLi st be built on its Q\ovn conc rete Aviation snips I x 6, 12 ft.
footing that exte nds be low the frost line; in th is project, Drill (8 pe r bay)
th e footings are 16 inc hes wide x 20 inches lo ng. See C ircu lar saw 2 x 6, 8 ft
pages 40 to 45 for tips o n \'\Io rkin g \,vith co ncrete and Jigsaw (3 pe r bay)
instructio ns for buildi ng struc tural Footi ngs. To maintai n Sta ndard Corros ion ~res iSla n t
an eve n %" mortar joint spacing betwee n bricks, c reate Ill odubr bricks dec k sc re\,\ls
a story pole us ing a 2 x 2 ma rked v./ith the spac ing. After (4 x 27\ x 8", (I Y.jll, I W')
every fe\v courses, ho ld the pole agai nst the p illar to c hec k 130 per pilla r) 1 W' finish nails
2 x 2 lumber 96!1~ l e ngth of
the joints for a consistent th ickness. Also ma ke SLire the
pilla rs remain as p lu mb, level, a nd square as possible to for story po le flexibl e !;."
increase th e strength and longevity of the pi llars. Type N morta r mL\: PVC pipe
Attaching t he strin gers to the pi llars is much Y.j" woode n dowel Vegeta ble o il
easier th an YOLI ma y imagine. Fence bracke ts a nd 1Ji'1 wire mesh C ha lk
co nc re te screws are ava ilable th at have as mu c h Capstone or C halk li ne
ho ld ing powe r as lag bolts and anc hors . Although co ncrete ca p Tape measure
othe r brands a rc avai lable, we used 1Ji!l ~dia. TapCon %!I~thi c k wood sc raps Eye and ear protection
co nc re te screws. The screv,is co me wit h a special drill I W' countersink \Mork gloves
bi t to make su re th e pilot holes a re t he right d iame te r co nc rete sc rews
a nd depth, wh ic h simpli fies the process fo r you.
This elegant fence creates a stable boundary, and adds aesthetically pleasing textures to your home landscape.
Concrete footing
Mark the outline of the first course of brick on the cured Use a pencil or dowel coated with vegetable oil to
concrete footing. Dry-lay the five bricks of the course so they create a weep hole In the mortar in the first course of bricks
are centered on the footing. Leave a '1." gap for each mortar before filling in the joints. The hole ensures drainage of any
Joint Remove the bricks, apply a bed of mortar inside the moisture that seeps into the pillar. Fill in the joint and then
reference lines, and then press the first course of brick into the remove dowel.
mortar to create a %"-thick bed layer.
(continued)
After every five courses, use a jOinting tool to smooth For the final course, lay the bricks over a bed of mortar and
the joints that have hardened enough to resist minimal wire mesh. After placing the first two bricks, add an extra brick
finger pressure. in the center of the course. Lay the remainder of the bricks
around it. Fill the remai ning jOints, and work them with the
jointing tool as soon as they become firm .
Mark and cut the fence boards. Cut the 12-ft. 1 x 6 boards Install the fence boards. Starting at one pillar, position the
In half. Set 16 pieces together on a flat surface, with their bottom first board so It is plumb and 2" above the ground. Fasten it
ends aligned, setting a W' (approx.) gap between each board. to the stringers with pairs of 1%" deck screws driven through
On each end board, drive a finish nail 64" up from the bottom pilot holes. Install the remaining boards, using the chalk line to
and 2" in from the outside edge. snap a chalk line between the align the boards for proper height. Maintain a 'j," -gap between
nails. At the center of the middle board, drive a third nail 70" boards, and check every few boards with a level to make sure
from the bottom . Bend flexible PVC pipe by placing it under the they're plumb.
side nails and over the center nail. Trace along the pipe to mark
the arch . Cut out the arch with a jigsaw and remove nails.
2 x 4 cedar stringers
24 x 24" pillar
Stringers brackets - - - - - -
36 x 36" footing
A sturdy gate provides attractive access to a garden, path, or to your front door. A Z-frame gate is ideal for lightweight
Match your custom gate to the fence for a polished look. matenals. More elaborate or heavy-duty
gates wi ll requ ire a perimeter frame for
additional stability.
Check both posts for plumb and measure the gate opening. Measure the distance between the top and bottom
Consult your hinge and latch hardware for necessary stringers on the fence. Cut two 2 x 4s to this length to use as
clearances, and subtract that amount from the opening width. supports. Layout the frame with the supports between the
Cut 2 x 4s to this length. Paint, stain or seal the lumber for the braces. Square the corners with a framing square. Place a 2 x 4
gate and let it dry diagonally across the frame and mark and cut it to length.
Screw the brace into position with 2'/," deck screws.
Plan the layout of the siding to match the fence. Clamp a Shim the gate into position and mark the locations for the
2 x 4 against the bottom brace. Align the first and last boards with hinges. Drill pilot holes and install the hinges. Hang the gate
the 2 x 4 and attach them to the frame using pairs of 2" deck with the hardware provided and install the latch hardware
screws. Attach the rest of the siding uSing spacers as necessary according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Follow step 1 for a Z-frame gate (page 123). Measure the Position the frame on a 2 x 4 set on edge running diagonally
distance between the top and bottom stringers on the fence. from one corner to the other. Use scrap 2 x 4 to support the
Cut two 2 x 4s to this length for the vertical braces. Layout the frame. Mark the diagonal brace and cut to length using a
frame and secure with 2W' deck screws. circular saw set to the desired bevel angle. Screw the brace
into position with 2W' deck screws.
Clamp a scrap 2 x 4 to the bottom edge to use as a guide. Variation: Dress up your gate with inset accent pieces. This
Align the first and last siding boards flush with the edges of the gate has a frame with a horizontal support to allow the inset of
vertical braces. Attach the boards with 2" deck screws. Align a stained glass window
and attach the rest of the siding uSing a spacer. Mount the
hardware and hang the gate as for a Z-frame gate (page 123).
Chain link gates are available in a limited range of sizes Iron gates are available as prefab units or can be custom-
and styles at home centers. Specialty retailers may offer built for your needs. The strength and beauty of iron pair well
more options. with stone or brick walls and entry columns.
Painted aluminum gates are a lightweight option that can Vinyl fencing manufacturers offer a supnsingly wide
blend well with any fence style. selection of custom gates to help you individualize your fence
and landscape.
This decorative piece of wrought iron salvaged from a banister adds intrigue and a functional peephole to this classic gate shape.
~ +t-J-:-'~-~-~~I~II~~~ii~l~
g
L
8" / './:Mendin plates
r- ..l...
3112" .- : - - - "".1
" Orna mental Iron
Half·lap ioint B
"--;:,:-
63"
44 '12" C C
Measure the opening between your gate posts and Cut the half-lap joints using a circular saw and chisel. These
determine the finished size of the gate (check the packaging of appear on both ends of the horizontal braces and at the three
the hinge and latch hardware for recommended clearances). locations on the vertical braces, as shown on page 127. First
The finished gate in this project is 42%" wide, but you can make the shoulder cuts with a CIrcular saw set for a 'f, " -deep
modify any dimensions as needed to suit your project Cut all cut Then make a series of closely spaced cuts to the end of
pieces for the gate according to the cutting list on page 127. the board (or the other shoulder cut). Remove the waste and
smooth the bottoms of the notches with a chisel. Test-fit the
cuts and make any necessary adjustments.
Assemble the brace frame. Fit the pieces together back- Add the siding boards and siding brace. Screw the two
side-up, and measure diagonally from corner to corner to outer siding boards to the brace frame using pairs of 2" deck
check for square (when the diagonals match, the frame is screws. The boards should be flush with the ou tside edges
square). Secure the half-lap joints with exterior wood glue and and bottom of the brace frame. Install the remaining boards
1%" deck screws. Position the diagonal brace as shown (with in between, spacing them evenly as desired. On the back
its bottom end at the hinge-side of the frame) and mark the side, fasten the siding brace across the siding with glue (or
ends for cutting. Make the cuts, and fasten the diagonal brace construction adhesive) and 1y." screws so its top edge is 9"
to the vertical braces with 4" deck screws driven through above the top of the top horizontal brace.
angled pilot holes. Finish the wood, if necessary.
Install the display piece, using small mending plates with Hang the gate. Mount the hinges onto the gate. Ideally, the
two or more holes. position the plates evenly around the edges hinge leaves should mount to the three 2 x 4 horizontal braces
of the piece, and mark the piece for bolt holes. Drill the bolt of the gate frame. Also install the gate wh eel. Set the gate into
holes (for iron, start with a small bit, then drill with successively position, and shim along the bottom and latch side to create
larger bits; use a slow drill speed throughout). Set the piece the desired gaps. Make sure the gate IS plumb, and fasten the
and plates in place on the gate and mark for bolt holes. Drill hinges to the hinge post. Install the latch hardware, as desired.
the holes and anchor the piece with bolts and nuts.
2 x 4-haU-lap joint
Half-lap joint
Vertical brace
Gate frame
Diagonal brace
Siding
Stakes ~
Gate posts
(continued)
Cut and install the tie beams. Measure across the frame Install the rafters. Make layout marks for the four rafters
braces to find the overall length of the tie beams. Make a on the inside faces of the tie beams. spacing them evenly
cardboard template of the Tie Beam End Detail using the between the Side frames. Cut the rafters to fit snugly between
drawing on page 131 as a gUide. Cut the tie beams to length. the beams. Fasten the rafters to the beams with 3" deck
Hold them in place against the frame braces and mark the screws driven through pilot holes.
half-lap joints. Cut the half-lap notches on the beams. Shape
the ends of the beams with a jigsaw. using the template to
draw the outline. Fasten the beams to the braces with 1%"
deck screws.
~.I
Install the gate siding. Cut the Siding boards to length. Cut the gate siding top profile. Drive a nail in the center
Clamp a 1 x 4 spacer to the bottom of the gate frame. Install of the gate, a little bit above the top horizontal brace. Bend a
the siding flush with the edge of the 1 x 4, starting with two length of flexible PVC pipe under the nail and clamp the ends
1 x 6S on the hinge-side of the gate. Gap the siding with %" to the top ou tside corners of the siding boards. Mark along the
spacers, and fasten the siding to the gate frame with pairs of pipe to draw the curve. Cut the boards with a jigsaw Touch up
2" deck screws. Hang the gate between the gate posts. primer and paint the gate trellis.
Garden Walls
L ike fences, wa ll s for t he ho rn e landscape can be
crafted from a broad mnge of materials- from
a ncien t building bloc ks, slic h as natura l ston e and clay
bric k, to clever modern produ cts, like molded concrete
units de signed for casy, morta rl ess insta lla tion. Your
project might also call for po ured concrete, e ithe r in
a st ruct ural foot ing fo r th e \va ll or to c reate th e \va ll
itself. Whi c heve r materia l you c hoose, yo u'll find that
each type of wa ll offers not on ly a di st inc t look a nd
feel, but a lso an opportunity to lea rn a specia l ski ll ,
malzj ng th e building process al most as rev/a rdin g as
t he fini shed product.
As a ge neral rule of thumb, masonry wa ll s built by
a ma teurs should be ke pt at a bout three feet or shorte r.
The same is true fo r all reta ining wa ll s. T he reason is
that th e taller a \,va il is, th e more suppo rt it needs-
ei th er fro m th e base, spec ial stacking tec h niques,
inte rnal reinforce me nt, or a co mbination of e le men ts.
Building in thi s su pport requires expe rt know ledge
of th e specifi c ma te ri a l, a nd often so me engineering
ca lc ul at ions. At three feet and under, wa ll s have a
rel ati vely low center of grav ity a nd are less su bject to
\vind a nd other forces. If yo u need a ta ll barrie r, you
sho uld cons ide r hirin g a profess ional to build th e wa ll ,
or you can opt to build a ta ll fence instead .
-- .:/
. In this chapter:
• Patio Wall • Poured Concrete Wall
• Outdoor Kitchen Walls • Interlocking Block
& Countertop Retaining Wall
..
/
-."
•
•
Dry Stone Wall
Mortared Stone Wall
• Timber Retaining Wall
• Stone Retaining Wall
• Brick Garden Wall • Poured Concrete
• Mortarless Block Wall Retaining Wall
• 135
Patio Wall
Landscape block for freestanding walls is versatile and an easy material with which to build. You can use it to create low walls of
almost any shape, plus columns, steps, and other features. Quality block manufacturers offer a variety of styles and textures, along
with compatible specialty and accessory pieces for a well-integrated look.
Draw the rough outline of the wall onto the ground with a can of marking paint. First measure the wall blocks and/or align
a few blocks in place as gUides. To mark end columns, first measure the blocks and then use the marking paint to outline the
footprint of the column (insetl.
Freeform curving walls: Use heavy rope or a garden hose to layout the wall's Straight walls: Mark the outlines of
shape. Follow the rope with marking paint to transfer the outline to the ground. To the wall and/or excavation with stakes
mark the other side of the wall and the edges of the excavation, reposition the rope and mason's string. position one string,
or hose the appropriate distance away from the first mark and trace with paint. then measure from it to position any
remaining strings as needed. Tip: Leave
the stakes marking one of the wall faces
in the ground; you'll use them later to
align the wall block.
Remove the sod and other plantings inside the excavation Set up level lines to guide the excavation using stakes and
area. For a gravel base, the excavation should extend 6" mason's stllng. For curved walls, you may need more than one
beyond the wall on all sides. If you are building adjacentto a string. Level the string with a line level (make sure multiple
sand set patio with pavers, take care not to disturb the rigid strings are level with one another). Measure from the string
paver edging. Alternatively, fully excavate the ground around to ground level (grade), and then add 12" (or as directed by
patio to compensate for wall addition and install new edging the block manufacturer)- thls is the total depth required for
around perimeter. Follow your manufacturer's instructions. the excavation.
Use a story pole to measure the depth as you complete the Tamp the soil in the trench with a rented plate compactor
excavation. To make a story pole, mark the finished depth of or a hand tamp. The bottom of the trench should be flat and
the excavation onto a straight board, and use It to measure level, with the soil thoroughly compacted. Take care not to
against the string; this is easier than pulling out your tape disturb or damage adjacent structures.
measure for each measurement.
Set the first course. If you're using more than one thickness Set the second course. Begin the course at the more visible
of block, select only the thicker units for the first course. Lay end of the wall. Set the blocks In the desired pattern, making
out the blocks in the desired pattern along the layout line, sure to overlap the block joints In the first course to create a
butting the ends together for complete contact. If necessary, bond pattern. Alternate different sizes of block regularly, and
cut blocks to create the desired curve (see step 10). Place a check the entire course with a level. If necessary, cut a block
4-ft. level across the blocks to make sure they are level and flat for the end of the wall.
across the tops.
(continued)
Cut Facets ~
This all-masonry outdoor kitchen comes ready to assemble on any solid patiO surface, or you can build it over a prepared
gravel base anywhere in your landscape (check with the manufacturer for base requirements). For a custom design, similar
materials are available to purchase separately and the installation would be more or less the same as shown here. Discuss the
project with the manufacturer for specifics. If you decide to build just a part of this kitchen (the bar, for example), review the setup
and site prep steps at the beginning of this proJect.
(continued)
set the second course. Add the second course of blocks set the third course. Lay the th ird-course blocks uSing
to each of the columns, rotating the pattern 90° to the first the same pattern as in the first course. For appearance and
course. Set the blocks for the long and side walls, leaving stability, make sure the faces of the blocks are flush with one
about a 2" gap in between the corner column and the first another and that the walls and columns are plumb. use a level
block. Set the remaining wall blocks with the same gap so the to align the blocks and check for plumb.
blocks overlap the jOints in the first course.
Complete the short wall top. create the coun ter surface Cap the corner columns. Finish the two corner columns
for the short wall by gluing patio stones to the tops of the with wall blocks running parallel to the side wall. Glue the cap
columns and overhanging blocks. Position the stones for the pieces in place on the colomns uSing concrete adheSive. Make
lower surface against the ends of the overhanging blocks. sure the blocks are fitted tightly together
Position the upper-surface stones so they extend beyond the
overhanging blocks slightly on the outside ends and a little
more so on the inside ends.
A dry stone wall is one of the oldest and strongest styles of garden wall out there. The wall's two stacks of stones rely on one
another for support.
Layout the wall site with stakes Lay two rows of shaping stones Form a corner by laying the last stone
and mason's string. Dig a 24"-wide along the bottom of the trench. Position of the outer row so it covers the end
trench that IS 6" deep at the edges and them flush with the edges of the of the stone In the outer row of the
8" deep in the center, creating a slight trench and sloping toward the center, adjacent wall course. Lay the inner row
V shape by evenly sloping the sides staggering joints. use stones similar in in the same manner.
toward the center. Compact any loose height. If stones have uneven surfaces,
soil. Add a 2" -layer of gravel, but do not position them with the uneven sides
compact it. facing down.
(continuedl
Lay the third course. Work from the corner to the end of the wall. If necessary, When the wall is about 36" high,
shape or split the final stones of the course to size with a masonry saw or hand check for level. Trowel mortar onto the
sledge and chisel. Place tie stones approximately every 36". Lay shaping stones center of the wall, in at least 6" from
between the tie stones. Make sure to stagger the Joints; stones of varying lengths the edges. Center the capstones and
will help offset them. Continue to place filler stones into any cracks on the surface or set them as close together as possible.
sides of the wall. Continue laying courses, maintaining a consistent height along the Carefully fill the cracks between the
wall and adding tie stones to every third course. Check for level as you go. capstones with mortar. Let any excess
mortar dry until crumbly, then brush it
off. After two or three days, scrub off
any residue using water and a rough-
textured rag.
If the wall goes up- or downhill, step the trench, the TO build a curved wall, layout the curve using a string
courses, and the top of the wall to keep the stones level. staked to a center point as a compass. Then, dig the
trench and set stones using the same techniques as for a
straight wall.
A mortared stone wall made from ashlar adds structure and claSSIC appeal to your home landscape. Plan carefully and enlist
help to ease the building process.
Pour a footing for the wall and allow it to cure for one Dry-lay the entire first course. Starting with a tie stone at
week (pages 42 to 45). Measure and mark the wall location so each end, arrange stones in two rows along the chalk lines
It is centered on the footing. Snap chalk lines along the length with Joints about 1" thick. Use smaller stones to fill the center
of the footing, for both the front and the back faces of the of the wall. Use larger, heavier stones in the base and lower
wall. Layout corners using the 3A-5 right angle method as courses. Place additional tie stones approximately every 3 feet.
described on page 24. Trim stones as needed .
Mix a stiff batch of Type N or Type 5 mortar, following Firmly press the first tie stone into the mortar, so it is
the manufacturer's directions (see pages 38 to 39). Starting at aligned with the chalk lines and relatively level. Tap the top of
an end or corner, set aside some of the stone and brush off the stone with the handle of the trowel to set it. Continue to
the foundation. Spread an even, 2"-thick layer of mortar onto lay stones along each chalk line, working to the opposite end
the foundation, about V;' from the chalk lines- the mortar will of the wall.
squeeze out a little.
(continued)
Drive stakes at the each end of the wall and align a If heavy stones push out too much mortar, use wood
mason's line with the face of the wall. use a line level to level wedges cut from scrap to hold the stone in place. Once the
the string at the height of the next course. Build up each end mortar sets up, remove the wedges and fill the voids with
of the wall, called the "leads," making sure to stagger the joints fresh mortar.
between courses. Check the leads with a 4-ft. level on each
wall face to verify plumb.
Have a bucket of water and a sponge handy Fill the middle courses between the leads by first dry
in case mortar oozes or spills onto the face of the laying stones for placement and then mortari ng them in
stone. Wipe mortar away immediately before it place. Install tie stones about every 3 feet, both vertically and
can harden . horizontally, staggering their position In each course. Make
sure Joints in successive courses do not fall in alignment.
Install cap stones by pressing flat stones that span the width Allow the wall to cure for one week, then clean it using a
of the wall into a mortar bed. DO not rake the jOints, but clean solution of 1 part muriatic aCid and 10 parts water. Wet the wall
off excess mortar with the trowel and clean excess mortar using a garden hose, apply the acid solution, then immediately
from the surface of the stones using a damp sponge. rinse with plenty of clean, clear water. Always wear goggles,
long sleeves and pants, and heavy rubber gloves when
uSing acids.
Dry-lay the first course by setting down two parallel rows Dampen the concrete slab or footing with water, and
of brick, spaced % to 1" apart. Use a chalk line to outline the dampen the bricks or blocks if necessary. MIX mortar and
location of the wall on the slab. Draw pencil lines on the slab throw a layer of mortar onto the footing for the first two bricks
to mark the ends of the bricks. Test-fit the spacing with a of one wythe at one end of the layout. Butter the inside end of
%"-diameter dowel, then mark the locations of the jOint gaps the first brick, then press the brick into the mortar, creating a
to use as a reference after the spacers are removed. %" mortar bed. Cut away excess mortar.
Cut a half brick, then throw and furrow a mortar bed for a Add more bricks and half bricks to both wythes at the end
half brick on top of the first course. Butterthe end of the half until you lay the first bricks in the fourth course. Align bricks
brick, then set it in the mortar bed, creating a %" joint. Cut with the reference lines. Note: To build corners, lay a header
away excess mortar. Check bricks for plumb and level. brick at the end of two parallel wythes. Position the header
brick in each subsequent course perpendicular to the header
brick in the previous course (inset)
(continued)
Build the opposite end of the wall with the same methods as the first using the chalk lines as a reference. Stretch a mason's
string between the two ends to establish a flush, level line between ends- use line blocks to secure the string. Tighten the string
until It is taut. Begin to fill in the field bricks (the bricks between ends) on the first course, using the mason's string as a guide.
Lay the remaining courses, installing metal ties every third Lay a furrowed mortar bed on the top course, and
course. Check with mason's string frequently for alignment, place a wall cap on top of the wall to cover empty spaces and
and use a level to make sure the wall is plumb and level. provide a finished appearance. Remove any excess mortar.
Make sure the cap blocks are aligned and level. Fill the joints
between cap blocks with mortar.
Cap tile,
I~
0
•• .. .,
•
0 • ••
0
•
o·
- -- 0
. .
•• •
•
•
0 •0
0 •
•
Complete a dry layout of the first course on a concrete Mark the corners of the end blocks on the footing with
footing. Where less than half a block IS needed, trim two a pencil. Then, remove the blocks and snap chalk lines to
blocks instead. For example, where three and one-third block indicate where to lay the mortar bed and the initial course
lengths are required, use four blocks, and cut two of them to of block.
two-thirds their length. You'll end up with a stronger, more
durable wall.
(continuedl
Half IOCk~
Lay subsequent courses one at a time using a level to Variation: For walls with corners, begin the second course
check for plumb and line blocks to check for level. Begin with a full-size end block that overlaps the joint between wall
courses with solid-faced blocks at each end . Use half blocks to sections in the first course. Start the perpendicular run with
establish a running bond pattern. a full stretcher block butted against the end block, as shown
here. Repeat the alternation for each course.
Layout the tiles on top of the wall . Adjust the layout as Grout the tiles after the mortar has fully cured. Mix the
needed so that cut tiles at the ends of the wall will be roughly grout as directed, and spread it over the tiles with a rubber
the same size. Apply thinset mortar with a notched trowel, and grout float. packing it into the joints with the float held flat.
set the tile, using tile spacers to set the grout joints. After the Then, scrape off excess grout by dragging the float across the
mortar sets on the top tile, Install the bullnose tiles along both joints diagonally, With the float held at a 60 angle. Clean the
0
side edges, using tape to keep the tiles from slipping until the tiles With a damp sponge. Apply sealer to the grout after It has
mortar sets. cured completely.
0/..- plywood
2 x 2 frame
for stop board
v.."plywood
stop board
A typical wall form is built with two framed sides (much like a standard 2 x 4 stud wall) covered with 'I,' plywood . The two sides
are jOined together at each end by a stop board, which also shapes the end of the finished wall. The form is braced and staked
in position. Tie wires prevent the sides of the form from spreading under the force of the concrete. Temporary spacers maintain
proper spacing between the sides while the form is empty; these are pulled out once the concrete is placed .
Build the frames for the form sides from 2 x 4 lumber and Cut one piece of %" plywood for each side frame. Fasten
16d nails. Include a stud at each end and every 16" in between . the plywood to frames with 8d nails driven through the
Plan an extra 2%" of wall length for each stop board . For walls plywood and into the framing. Make sure the top edges of the
longer than 8 ft., build additional frames. panels are straight and flush with the frames.
Drill holes for the tie wires. At each stud location, drill two Pour a concrete footing (see pages 42 to 45) and set #3
pairs of %" holes evenly spaced, and keep the holes close to rebar anchors into the concrete at 24" Intervals. Once the
the stud faces. Drill matching holes on the other form side. footing has dried, cut #3 rebar for three horizontal runs, 4"
shorter than the wall length. Tie the short pieces to the footing
anchors using 8-gauge tie wire, then tie the horizontal pieces
to the verticals, spacing them 12" apart and keeping their ends
2" from the wall ends.
A standard, reinforced 4"-thick concrete slab can Mark the locations for the rebar anchors along the
be a suitable foundation for a low partition wall like the wall center: position an anchor 4" from each end of the
one shown in this project The slab must be in good wall and every 24" In between . At each location, drill a
condition, with no significant cracks or changes in level, 1%,,-diameter hole straight down into the concrete using
and you should place the wall several inches away from a hammer drill and 1y," masonry bit (above, left). Make
the slab edge to ensure adequate support To anchor the the holes 3" deep. Spray out the holes to remove all dust
new wall to the slab and provide lateral stability, you'll and debris using an air compressor with a trigger-type
need to install rebar anchors in the slab, following the nozzle. Cut six pieces of #4 rebar at 16". Mix exterior-use
basic steps shown here. But before going ahead with the anchoring cement to a pourable consistency Insert the
project, be sure to have your plans approved by the local rods into the holes, then fill the hole with the cement
building department. (above, right). Hold the rods plumb until the cement sets
(about 10 minutes). Let the cement cure for 24 hours.
5 Spacer
Spacer
"
Cut 1 x 2 spacers at 6", one piece for each set of tie wire Set the form sides in place. Install the stop boards with
holes. These temporary spacers will be used to maintain the 2 x 2 frames for backing; fasten the frames to the form sides
form width . Tie each pair of spacers to a pull wire, spacing with screws. Tie a loop of wire through each set of tie wire
them to match the hole spacing. Then attach a piece of scrap holes, and position a spacer near each loop. Use a stick or
wood to the end of the pull wile to serve as a handle. scrap of pipe to twist the loop strands together, pulling the
form sides inward, tight against the spacers.
(continued)
Mix the first batches of concrete. being careful not to add Place the concrete in the forms. Start at the ends and work
too much water- a soupy mix results in weakened concrete. toward the center. filling the form about halfway up (no more
than 20" deep). Rap on the forms to settle out air bubbles and
then fill to the top. Remove the spacers as you proceed.
Cover the wall with plastic and let it cure for two or three Cut the loops of tie wire and remove the forms. Trim the
days. Remove the plastic. Sprinkle with water on hot or dry tie wires below the surface of the concrete, and then patch
days to keep concrete from drying too quickly. the depressions with quick-setting cement or fast-set repair
mortar. Trowel the patches flush with the wall surface. Option:
to achieve a consistent wall color and texture apply heavy duty
masonry coating with acrylic fortifier using a masonry brush.
Interlocking concrete block is the only retaining wall material that cOmes ready to install. With little or no cutting, you can build
a wall With straight lines, curves, or steps, or have it conform to a slope on one or both ends.
Backfill with crushed stone and install a perforated Make a stepped trench when the ends of a retaining
drain pipe about 6" above the bottom of the backfill. Vent wall must blend into an existing hillside. Retaining walls
the pipe to the side or bottom of the retaining wall, where are often designed so the ends curve or turn back into
runoff water can flow away from the hillside without the slope.
causing erosion.
Interlocking wall blocks do not need mortar. Some types are held together with Excavate the hillside, if necessary.
a system of overlapping flanges that automatically set the backward pitch (batter) as Allow 12" of space for crushed stone
the blocks are stacked, as shown in this project. Other types of blocks use fiberglass backfill between the back of the wall
pins (inset). and the hillside. Use stakes to mark
the front edge of the wall. Connect the
stakes with mason's string, and use a
line level to check for level.
Dig out the bottom of the excavation below ground level, Line the excavation with strips of landscape fabric cut
so it is 6" lower than the height of the block. For example, if 3 ft. longer than the planned height of the wall. Make sure all
you use 6"-thick block, dig down 12". Measure down from the seams overlap by at least 6".
string in multiple spots to make sure the bottom base is level.
Lay the second course of block according to manufacturer's Make half-blocks for the corners and ends of a wall,
instructions, checking to make sure the blocks are level. (Lay and use them to stagger vertical joints between courses. Score
flanged block with the flanges tight against the underlying full blocks with a circular saw and masonry blade, then break
course.) Add 3 to 4" of gravel behind the block, and pack it with the blocks along the scored line with a maul and chisel.
a hand tamper.
(continued)
Before laying the cap block, fold the end of the landscape Apply construction adhesive to the top course of block,
fabric over the crushed stone backfill. Add a thin layer of then lay the cap block. Use topsoil to fill in behind the wall and
topsoil over the fabric, then pack it thoroughly with a hand to fill in the base at the front of the wall. Install sad or plants,
tamper. Fold any excess landscape fabric back over the as desired.
tamped soil.
Outline the curve by first driving a stake at each end and Excavate for the wall section, following the curved layout
then driving another stake at the point where lines extended line. To install the first course of landscape blocks, turn them
from the first stakes would form a right angle. Tie a mason's upside down and backward and align them with the radiUS
string to the right-angle stake, extended to match the distance curve. Use a 4-fl. level to ensure the blocks sit level and are
to the other two stakes, establishing the radius of the curve. properly placed .
Mark the curve by swinging flour or spray paint at the string
end, like a compass (see page 25).
Install subsequent courses so the overlapping flange SitS flush against the back use half blocks or cut blocks to
of the blocks in the course below. As you install each course, the radius will change create finished ends on open ends of
because of the backwards pitch of the wall, affecting the layout of the courses. Where the wall.
necessary, trim blocks to size. Install uSing landscape construction adhesive, taking
care to maintain the running bond .
Spread a 6"-layer of compactable gravel subbase into Use 12" galvanized spikes or reinforcement bars to
the prepared trench, then tamp the subbase and begin laying anchor the ends of each timber to the underlying timbers.
timbers, following the same techniques as with interlocking Stagger the ends of the timbers to form strong corner joints.
blocks (steps 4 to 11, pages 171 to 172). Each row of limbers Drive additional spikes along the length of the timbers at 2-ft
should be set with a y," batter, and end joints should be intervals. If you have trouble driving the spikes, drill pilot holes.
staggered so they do not align .
Install dead men, spaced 4 ft apart, midway up the wall. Improve drainage by drilling weep holes through the second
Build the deadmen by joining 3-ft-long lengths of timber with row of landscape timbers and into the gravel backfill using a
12" spikes, then insert the ends through holes cut in the spade bit Space the holes 4 ft apart, and angle them upward.
landscape fabric Anchor deadmen to the wall with spikes.
Install the remaining rows of timbers, and finish backfilling
behind the wall (steps 6 to 11, pages 171 to 172).
A natural stone retaining wall blends into its surroundings immediately and only looks better with age. Building the wall with
ashlar, or cut wall stone, is a much easier project than a wall built with round fieldstones or large boulders.
Begin excavating the wall site. Dig a trench for the base of Measure the depth of the trench against a level mason's
wall, making It 6" wider than the wall thickness. If necessary, string running parallel to the trench. The bottom of the trench
dig into the slope, creating a backward angle that roughly should be level and 8" below grade (ground level) for the main
follows the y," batter the wall will have. If desired, dig returns section of wall and any returns. If the trench becomes too
back into the slope at the end(s) of the wall. shallow due to natural contours, step it down the height of
one stone.
(continued)
Add or remove sand beneath the stones as needed so Begin the second course, starting with both ends of the wall
they are nearly touching the string. Level the stones front to face. Reset and level the mason's string at the height of the
back with a torpedo level and side to side with a 4-ft. level. second course. Place the second-course stones back W from
If necessary, use a hand maul and stone chisel to chip off the front edges of the first-course stones, overlapping all joints
irregularities from the edges of stones to improve their fit. of the first course to create a bond pattern.
Fold the landscape fabric over the gravel. and backfill Install the final course using long, flat cap stones. Glue
over the fabric with soil. (The fabric is there to prevent the soil the caps in place with block and stone adhesive. After the
from migrating into the gravel and out through the wall stones.) glue dries, add soil behind the wall to the desired elevation
Trim the fabric Just behind the back of the wall, near the top. for planting
co nfo rm to just about any size and sha pe YOLI desire Shove l Lan d scape fabr ic
(wi thin spec ific structural limitations); depending on C irc ular saw Drainage gravel
your source, co ncrete can be a re latively inexpens ive Power miter saw Excavation tool s
material ; poured concrete is vel)' longlasting; with Ta bl e saw Compactable gravel
professional engineering YOLI can build higher with Drill/driver Eye and
poured conc rete than with most oth er wall materials. Level ea r protection
But if you live in a region \.vhere freeze/thaw cycles are Tam pe r or plate i\ llaso n's string
problematic, yo u'll need to dig down deep (at least a foot compactor Metal sta kes
past the frost line) an d provide plenty of good drainage to Bow rake Hand maul
keep you r wa ll from developing vertical cracks. Wheelbarrow Tie wi re
A properly engineered retaining \-v<:I 1l is designed Float Co nstruction
lIsing fairly complicated dim ensional and force rat ios. Edging tool adhesive
If th e wall will be three feet or ta lle r, )'ou should have 'Ii" plywood Cau lk gun
it enginee red by a professional. Shorte r retaining wa ll s, Lumber Concrete vib rator
sometimes called curb walls, often require less stringe nt (2x4,lx4) (ava ila ble
engineering, espec iull y if th ey are located in a garde n Deck screws for rent )
settin g or are to be used for planting beds or terracing. Concrete Rubbe r m a ll et
T he \vall seen here is built in a fairly cold climate, but release agent Angle iron
the fac t that the top is less than 36 inches above groun d #3 rebar Square tubing
allm·vs fo r a drainage base that is above the frostl ine. Concrete Sta pler
with th e understanding that some shifting is likely to Sheet plastic Staples
occu r. The project was built in conju nction with poured Concrete colo rant Work gloves
concrete steps. Because the steps and walls are isolated (optional ) Magnesi um trowel
with an isolat io n membrane th ey are regarded as 2Y,"-dia . ABS or darby
independent structures and neither is req uired to have plastic p ipe
footings that extend below the frostl ine.
A poured concrete retaining wall adds structure and permanence to your landscape. Build decorative forms and add colOring
agents to the concrete to add decorative flair to this utilitarian structure.
Counterfort wall
Poured concrete retaining walls employ differing strategies to keep the earth at bay Some, called gravity walls, rely almost
exclusively on sheer mass to hold back the ground swell. These are very wide at the bottom and taper upward in both the front
and the back. Unless you feel like pouring enough concrete to build a dam, don't plan on a gravity wall that's more than 3 ft.
tall. A semlgravity wall is somewhat sleeker than a gravity wall and employs internal reinforcement to help maintain Its shape.
A cantilevered wall has an integral bottom flange that extends back into the hillside where it is held down by the weight of the
dirt that is backilled on top of it. This helps keep the wall in place. A counterfort wall is a cantilevered wall that has diagonal
reinforcements between the back face of the wall and the flange.
--...
No.3 rebar -,.::;:;..--_~
-. ..:~
- . "" -.. "
t6" below
grade
I
-.: ~
, -- - . .- '
A cross-section of the concrete retaining wall built here reveals Internal re-bar reinforcement, and 2"-dia. pipe that's cast into the
wall to allow drainage slightly above the grade.
I How to Build a Poured Concrete Retaining Wall
Excavate the construction area well beyond the edges Add a thick layer (at least 4 to 6") of compactable gravel
of the planned wall. Reserve some soil for backfilling and to the bottom of the excavation and tamp it thoroughly with
transport some to lower areas in your yard that need building- a hand tamper or a rented plate compactor to create a solid
up. For larger walls, you can save a lot of work by renting foundation for the wall. Add additional base material in sandy
power equipment, or hiring an excavator. If your utilities or marshy SOIl.
company has flagged any pipes in the area you must dig
around them using hand tools.
Cut the form boards, usually from %" -thick exterior-grade Level and stake the forms after doing as much pre-
plywood with one sanded face. You may also use dimensional assembly as you can, including attaching the 1 x 4 front forms
lumber. DO not use oriented-strand board or particleboard to create the lip. Run mason's lines at the tops of the forms
because they have Insufficient sheer strength. Do not use any to use as a reference. Drive 2 x 4 stakes into the ground next
sheet goods that can weaken and delaminate from exposure to the form braces and attach the braces to the stakes with
to wet concrete. Use a circular saw and cutting guide or a table deck screws. Wherever possible, stake the forms by driving
saw to cut panel to width screws through the outer member so they can be removed to
facilitate stripping off the forms.
use a splash guard to direct the concrete out of the chute Settle the concrete In the forms as you work. For best
and into the form without spilling. The concrete supplier should results, rent a concrete vibrator and vibrate thoroughly
have hoops, shovels and other tools to assist with form filling. before screeding. DO not get carried away- aver-vibrating
the concrete can cause the ingredients to separate. A less
effective alternative for vibrating (requiring no rental tools) is to
work the concrete in with a shovel and settle it by rapping the
forms with a rubber mallet.
14
Cover the concrete surface with plastic sheeting to cure for TO backfill, fllst shovel in an 8 to 12" deep layer of drainage
at least 48 hours, especially during hot weather. If it is very hot gravel (1 to 2" dia.1. then place a layer of landscape fabric
and dry, lift the plastic off and douse the concrete with fresh over the gravel to keep weeds and other plants out. Shovel
water twice a day to slow down the drying. Drying too fast can dllt over the fabric and tamp it lightly until the desired grade
cause cracking and other concrete failures. Walt at least two is achieved.
days and remove the forms.
Repairs for
Walls & Fences
ature takes its toll on all outdoor stru ctu res.
N \t\1ood fences are the most vu lnerable, being
con tinuollsly tested by \vater and su nli ght. Stone
wa lls, whil e extremely durabl e, ca n be prone to
shifting a nd se ttlin g soi l and to improper stacking
durin g const ruction. Brick structures wear most in
t he ir mortar joints, wh ich are softer tha n the brick cilld
inevitab ly deteriorate over time.
The re pair projects in this chapte r cover these
most common prob le m s for ston e and brick wa ll s
a nd \,v ood fe nces. Other types of fencing require
mu c h less maintenance than \,v oad . In fact, if
you r vinyl, compos ite, or meta l fen ce doc s need
re pairs (apart from basics like loose or missing
fasteners ), you' ll probably have to rep lace the
damaged parts \,v ith new o nes and sho uld co ntact the
manufactu rer fo r reco mm e ndations (or to disc uss your
\",a rranty coverage).
It's important to note that structural problems
wit h all wa ll s and fcn ccs should not be igno red .
Eve n short masonry wa lls can topple under the right
conditions, a nd fai ling fe nces ca n easi ly blow over in
a stro ng win d. Another thing to cons ide r is t he health
of the struc ture as a \,vhole. For example, iF o ne fen ce
post is rotted at its base, the two neighboring posts
must shou lder the added burden, leaving them more
vuln erable to prob lems and possible fa ilure.
In this chapter:
• Stone Walls
• Brick Structures
• Wood Fences
• 187
Stone Walls
Return a popped stone to its original position. If other Use a 2 x 4 covered with carpet to avoid damaging
stones have settled in its place, drive shims between the stone when hammering it into place. After hammering,
neighboring stones to make room for the popped stone. make sure a replacement stone hasn't damaged or
Be careful not to wedge too far. dislodged the adjoining stones. Remove shims.
Before you start, study the wall and determine how much of cap stones are often set in a mortar bed atop the last
It needs to be rebuilt. Plan to dismantle the wall in a "V" shape, course of stone. YOU may need to chip out the mortar with a
centered on the damaged section . Number each stone and maul and chisel to remove the cap stones. Remove the marked
mark Its orientation with chalk so you can rebuild It following stones, taking care to check the overall stability of the wall as
the original design. Tip: Photograph the wall, making sure the you work.
markings are visible.
Improve Drainage ~
Tint mortar for repair work so it blends with the Use a mortar bag to restore weathered and damaged
existing mortar. Mix several samples of mortar, adding a mortar Joints over an entire structure. Remove loose
different amount of tint to each, and allow them to dry mortar (see below) and clean all surfaces with a stiff~
thoroughly. Compare each sample to the old mortar, and bristle brush and water. Dampen the joints before
choose the closest match. tuck-pointing, and cover all of the joints, smoothing and
brushing as necessary.
Carefully rake out cracked and crumbling mortar, Mix Type M mortar, then dampen the repair surfaces with
stopping when you reach solid mortar. Remove loose mortar clean water. Working from the top down, pack mortar into the
and debriS with a stlff~ bris t le brush. Tip: Rake the joints with a crevices using a pointing trowel. Smooth the mortar when
chisel and maUl, or make your own raking tool by placing an it has set up enough to resist light finger pressure. Remove
old screwdriver in a vice and bending the shaft about 45' . excess mortar with a stiff-bristle brush.
Remove the damaged stone by chiseling out the Brush out the cavity to remove loose mortar and debris. Test
surrounding mortar uSing a masonry chisel or a modified the surrounding mortar, and chisel or scrape out any mortar
screwdriver (opposite page). Drive the chisel toward the that isn't firmly bonded.
damaged stone to aVOid harming neighboring stones. Once the
stone is out, chisel the surfaces inside the cavity as smooth
as possible.
Dry-fit the replacement stone. The stone should be stable Mist the stone and cavity lightly, then apply Type M mortar
In the cavity and blend with the rest of the wall. You can mark around the inside of the cavity using a trowel. Butter all mating
the stone With chalk and cut it to fit (pages 32 to 33), but sides of the replacement stone. Insert the stone and wiggle It
excessive cutting will result in a conspicuous repair. forcefully to remove any air pockets. Use a pointing trowel to
pack the mortar solidly around the stone. Smooth the mortar
when it has set up.
Make timely repairs to brick structures. Tuck-pointing deteriorated mortar joints is a common repair that, like other masonry
fixes, improves the appearance of the structure or surface and helps prevent further damage.
Clean out loose or deteriorated mortar to a depth of Mix the mortar, adding concrete fortifier; add tint if
y. to %" . Use a mortar raking tool (top) first, then switch to necessary. Load mortar onto a mortar hawk, then push it
a masonry chisel and a hammer (bottom) if the mortar is into the horizontal JOints With a tuck'pointer. Apply mortar In
stubborn. Clear away all loose debris, and dampen the surface Yo",thick layers, and let each layer dry for 30 minutes before
with water before applying fresh mortar. applying another. Fill the joints until the mortar is flush with the
face of the brick or block.
Apply the first layer of mortar Into the vertical joints by After the final layer of mortar is applied, smooth the
scooping mortar onto the back of a tuck,pointer, and pressing joints with a jointing tool that matches the profile of the old
It into the joint. Work from the top downward . mortar Joints. Tool the horizontal joints first. Let the mortar dry
until it is crumbly, then brush off the excess mortar with a stiff,
bristle brush.
Score the damaged brick so it will break apart more easily use a mason's chisel and hammer to break apart the
for removal: use a drill with a masonry-cutting disc to score damaged brick along the scored lines. Rap sharply on
lines along the surface of the brick and in the mortar joints the chisel with the hammer, being careful not to damage
surrounding the brick. surrounding bricks. Tip: Save fragments to use as a color
reference when you shop for replacement bricks.
Ch isel out any remaining mortar in the cavity, then brush Mix the mortar for the repair, adding concrete fortifier
out debriS with a stiff-bristle or wire brush to create a clean to the mixture, and tint if needed to match old mortar. use
surface for the new mortar. Rinse the surface of the repair area a pointing trowel to apply a 1"-thick layer of mortar at the
with water. bottom and Sides of the cavity
For walls with extensive damage, remove bricks from For walls with internal damaged areas, remove only
the top down, one row at a time, until the entire damaged the damaged section, keeping the upper layers intact if
area is removed. Replace bricks uSing the techniques they are in good condition. Do not remove more than four
shown above and on pages 154 to 157. Caution: do not adjacent bricks in one area- if the damaged area is larger,
dismantle load-bearing brick structures like foundation it Will require temporary support, which is a job best left to
walfs-consult a professional mason for these repairs. a professional mason .
Specialized Tools ~
Come-along tool- A hand-operated winch, typically With a steel hook on one end and a cable -mounted steel hook
on the other. Made to allow one person to move heavy loads, or to tighten shipping straps.
Turnbuckle cable-A galvanized hardware fixture that has a right-hand threaded screw eye on one end and a left-hand
screw eye on the other, both of which are connected to galvanized steel cables. By turning the turnbuckle the wires are
tightened or loosened.
Fenee damage often looks worse than it is. You could undertake a back-breaking demolition and rebuild to deal with a rotted
post...but there is an easier way.
A B
• • •
AA BB
Pictured: (A) dry concrete mix, (8) primer and paint, (C) caulk, (D) come-along tool, (E) random orbit sander, (F) cold chisel,
(G) drill, (H) hardware, (t) sandpaper, (J) nailset, (K) maul, (L) flat pry bar, (M) paint scraper, (N) hammer, (0) reciprocating saw, (P)
level, (Q) shovel, (R) 4-fl. length of 1);" steel pipe, (5) bar clamps, In waterproof glue, (U) drill and bits, 01) tape measure, 0N) v., x 2"
hardwood dowels, (X) screw eye, (y) turnbuckle cables, (Z) hammer, (AA)level, (88) turnbuckles, (CC) pipe clamp. 'Not pictured:
lumber (2 x 4, 4 x 4); screwdriver; putty knife or painter'S 5-in-1 tool; detail sander; caulk gun; paint brush; eye and ear protection;
protective mask; bits; rag.
TO repair a rotted post. first break up the concrete collar (if Brace the fence to compensate for the cut post, then
the post has one) and cut off the rotted section at the bottom cut a stub post to length and put it in the hole next to the
of the post with a hand saw or reciprocating saw. Then dig out old post. Plumb it and brace It in the plumb position. Then fill
the cut section of the old post and collar with a shovel. around the stub with concrete.
Make sure the fence stringers are level and the fence Tighten a loose stringer by replacing its fasteners with
boards are vertical. Drill countersunk guide holes all the way galvanized nails or screws. 8e sure to set the nail heads below
through the stub post, the old post and the fence stringers the surface with a nailset.
and fence boards. Tap a carriage bolt into each hole. Add and
tighten washers and nuts.
Cut a new stringer to length and slide it between the posts. Attach the new stringer to the posts by driving angled
Support the stringer on a block of wood clamped to the post galvanized screws through the stringer and into the post Once
on both ends. the stringers are stable, screw the fence boards to the stringer.
TO fix a leaning fence, first dig around the base of all the If you are working alone, you can straighten the fence
leaning posts to free them for movement. Then push against uSing a come-along tool. TO use it, first drive a screw eye near
the fence with several friends until it is plumb. When it is, brace the top of any leaning post.
it in place.
Next, drive a length of steel pipe into the ground, at a once all the posts have been pulled straight, recheck
45° angle, about 5 ft. from the post. Hook the come-along to the fence for plumb, then fill around the bottoms of the posts
the screw eye and the pipe and start ratcheting the come- with concrete. Wait at least 3 days for the concrete to dry, then
along. This will pull over the top of the fence until it's plumb. remove the braces.
Brace the first post and move on to others that are leaning.
Scrape off loose and flaking paint from all surfaces Sand the scraped areas to smooth out the edges between
using a paint scraper. YOU can use smaller tools, such as a bare and painted wood using 80-grlt sandpaper. If necessary,
putty knife or painter's 5-in-1 tool, for fitting into corners sand other painted surfaces with 100-grit paper to ensure a
and tight spaces. If you find any loose fasteners, re-drlve or good bond with the new paint. Tip: An orbital sander works
replace them. best for large areas, and a detail sander (shown here) is great
for tight spots.
Prime and paint the fence. Start by applying a thorough Option: Paint your fence with a power sprayer. Many of
coat of exterior primer. When the primer dries, fill any holes today's DIY sprayers are ideal for fences and other jobs that
and cracks with paintable exterior caulk. Paint the fence with have painted surfaces. YOU can choose from corded and
2 top coats of quality exterior paint (either all-based or 100% cordless models. Most sprayers feed from a cup attached to
acrylic)' waiting a day between coats. the gun; many corded models can also feed directly from a
paint can or bucket.
If the hinge screws have loosened, remove the gate and coat % x 2" dowels with exterior-rated glue and drive them
drill %"-diameter holes Just under 2" deep In the posts at each into the holes with a hammer. Wipe up any glue squeeze-out
hinge screw hole. A spade bit works well for this job. with a rag.
Brace the gate in the opening and mark the exact location If your gate is out of square, use a pipe clamp to force it
of the hinge screws. Then bore pilot holes and drive the screws back into a square shape. Take diagonal measurements of the
flush to the surface of the hinge. frame and apply the clamp on the diagonal that has the longer
measurement Tighten the clamp screw until both diagonal
measurements are the same.
Resources
Black & Decker Red Wing Shoes Co.
Portable power tools and more work shoes and boots shown throughout book
wwwblackanddecker.com 8007339464
wwwredwingshoes.com
Cali Bamboo
Bamboo fencing, flooring, and more Quikrete
888.788.2254 Cement and concrete products
wwwcalibamboo.com 800.282.5828
Featured on p. 3, 10 (top left), 106-109 wwwquikrete.com
Converting Measurements
To Convert: To: MultiQly by : To Conv ert : To: Multi ply by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Cen timeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Ymds Meters 0.914 Meters Ya rds 1.09
Miles Kilometers 1.609 Kilometers Miles 0.621
Square inches Square cen timeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Sgume feet SgullIe meters 0093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
iquare yards Square meters 0.836 iQuore meters Squme mds 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 164 (ubic centimeters (ubic inches 0.061
(ubideet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters (ubic feet 35.3
(ubic lords Cubic metels 0}65 Cubic meters (ubic lmds 1.31
Pints (U.s.) liters 0.473 (Im~. 0.568) liters Pints (U.s.) 2.114 Omp. 176)
Qumts IU.s.) liters 0.946 (imp. 1.136) liters Quarts IU.s.) 1.057 (im~ . 088)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3}8S Om .4.546) Liters Gallons IU.S.) 0.264 11m .0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 GlOms Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Tons Metric tons 0.907 Metric tons Tons 1.1
II/dex • 207
Prefabricated gate options, 125 laying, 31 Walls, repairing
Pressure-treated (PT) lumber, 46 mortared,150-153 brick,192-195
Privacy fences Stone walls, repairing dry stone, 189
bamboo, building wood-frame, dry, 189 mortared stone, 190- 191
106- 108 mortared,190-191 Water runoff, 29, 189
chain link, 101 Straightening leaning wood Wood, about, 46
ideas, 8, 10 fences, 200 Wood composite
modern post & board, building, 73 Stringers about, 47
vinyl panel, building, 86-89 contoured installations, 18, 20 fences, building, 82-85
wood composite, building, 82-85 fences of board &, building, 52-55 fences, repairing, 187
rotted, repairing, 198- 199 Wood fences, building
R stepped installations, 20 board & stringer, 52-55
Racking a panel, 19 Stucco wall idea, 9 brick & cedar, 116-119
Rail fences, building T picket, 64-67
split, 74-78 Tie-rods, 43 planning considerations, 5, 16-17
stone &, 120-121 Tie stones, 30, 31 post & board, 68-70
Virginia, 78-8 1 post & board notched, 71
Timber retaining walls, building,
Repointing joints, 190 174-175 post & board privacy, 73
Retaining walls Tools, 48-49,196-197 post & board with capped rails, 72
building tips, 169 Trellis fences, building, 102- 105 on slopes, 18-21
ideas, 10, 13 Trellis gates, building, 130-133 split rail, 74-78
interlocking block, building, Tuck-pointing mortar joints, 193 stone & rail, 120-121
168- 173 trellis, 102-105
Turnbuckle cables, 196
positioning, 169 Virginia rail, 78-81
poured concrete, building, u Wood fences, repairing, 196
180-185 Utility lines, 16 materials for, 197
stone, building, 176-179 painting, 201
timber, building, 174-175 V posts and stringer, 198- 199
Right angles, laying out, 24 Vinyl fences straightening leaning, 200
Rotted posts & stringers, repairing, about, 47 tools for, 196- 197
198- 199 gate installation, 89 Wood-frame bamboo fences,
idea, 13 building, 106-108
S panels, building with, 86-89 Wood gates
Shiners, 30 repairs, 187 about custom, 122
Single-wythe constructions, 34, 154 on slopes, 18 arched, building, 126-129
Site maps, 17 Vinyl gates, 89, 125 perimeter-frame, building, 124
Slopes, managing Virginia rail fences, building, 78-8 1 trellis, building, 130-133
with dry walls, 149 Z-frame, building, 123
options, 18-21 W
Wood panel fences
panel fences for, 19, 58 Walls, building about, 56-57
with post & board fences, 68 brick,154- 157 building, 58-61
Split rail fences, building, 74-78 on concrete slabs, 165 building face-mounted, 62-63
Splitters for bricks, using, 37 dry stone, 146-148
on slopes, 18
Stepped installations, 18- 19, 21, 58 dry stone on slopes, 149
Wrought iron fencing
Stone & rail fences, building, dry stone with curves, 137, 149
about, 93
120- 121 freestanding patio block, 136- 141
idea, 6
Stone retaining walls, building, height of, 135
176-179 interlocking block retaining, Z
Stones 168- 173 Z-frame gates, building, 123
about, 47 materials for, 47
cutting, 32-33 mortared stone, 150- 153
damaged, replacing with mortarless concrete block,
mortar, 191 158- 161
popped, replacing, 188 outdoor kitchen with countertops,
tools for, 49 142-145
Stone walls, building planning considerations, 5, 16-17
amount needed, estimating, 30 poured concrete, 162-167
dry, 146- 148 poured concrete retaining,
dry on slopes, 149 180-185
dry with curves, 137, 149 stone retaining, 176-179
idea, 13 timber retaining, 174- 175