hobby

1022
1032
1042

Instruction manual
This household sewing machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN 60335-2-28 and UL1594

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
including the following:
Read all instructions before using this household sewing machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric

shock:
• A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this
sewing machine
from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
• Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watt.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, Àre,

electric shock, or injury to persons:
• Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is
used by or
near children or inÀrm person.
• Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only
attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
• Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working
properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the
nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation
openings of the
sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose
cloth.
• Keep Àngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing
machine needle.
• Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
• Do not use bent needles.
• Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deÁect the needle causing it to break.
• Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such
as threading
needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
• Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers,
lubricating, or when
making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not use outdoors.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administrated.
• To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
• Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Sewing for fun

hobby
Congratulations! You have bought a quality
product made by Pfaff which is sure to bring you
countless hours of sewing pleasure. Your new
sewing machine features the very latest in de-
sign and technology. Furthermore, it has numer-
ous practical features which will make sewing
much easier for you.
Your sewing machine is as simple to operate as
this instruction manual is to follow. Before you
start sewing, please take the time to read these
instructions carefully. It is certainly time well
spent, and is the best way to find out just what
your machine can do and make full use of all its
features.
If you have any further questions, just ask your
Pfaff dealer, who will be happy to assist you with
help or advice.
We wish you many enjoyable hours creating your
very own fashion ideas.
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29 30 31
28 32

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Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1042

1 Thread guide
2 Bobbin winder tension
3 Needle thread tension
4 Adjustment field
5 Spool holder
6 Bobbin winder
7 Handwheel
8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot
9 Pattern adjustment button
10 Reverse key
11 Connection bushing
12 Master switch
13 Detachable work support with accessory box
14 Needle plate
15 Thread guide
16 Thread guide
17 Thread cutter
18 Threading slot
19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook)
20 Presser foot holder with presser foot
21 Free-arm
22 Feed dog
23 Needle holder with fixing screw
24 Buttonhole lever
25 Thread guide
26 Presser bar lifter
27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W)
28 Take-up lever
29 Carrying handle
30 Stitch length adjustment button
31 Adjustment field
32 Stitch width adjustment button
 1 2 3 5
4 6

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8

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9
15 16
10

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28

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26
25
23
22
21

20

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Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1022 and 1032

1 Thread guide
2 Bobbin winder tension
3 Needle thread tension
4 Adjustment field
5 Spool holder
6 Bobbin winder
7 Handwheel
8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot
9 Pattern adjustment button
10 Reverse key
11 Connection bushing
12 Master switch
13 Detachable work support with accessory box
14 Needle plate
15 Thread guide
16 Thread guide
17 Thread cutter
18 Threading slot
19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook)
20 Presser foot holder with presser foot
21 Free-arm
22 Feed dog
23 Needle holder with fixing screw
25 Thread guide
26 Presser bar lifter
27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W)
28 Take-up lever
29 Carrying handle
30 Stitch length adjustment button
 hobby – Sewing for fun

Index
A F
Accessories and needles 53 Fancy stitches 22
Accessory compartment 11 Feed dog, lowering 20
Felling foot 57
Foot control 10
B
Free arm 11
Bias tape binder 56
Blind-stitch foot 28
Bobbin case 14-15 G
Borders, embroidering 50 Gathering with the elastic thread 41
Buttonholes 33-37 Gathering with the straight stitch 40
Buttons 29 General sewing aids 25

C H
Changing the needle 20 Handwheel, releasing 12
Changing the sewing lamp 63 Hemming with the twin needle 38
Cleaning and oiling 62 Hemstitching 52
Closed overlock stitch 32 Honeycomb stitch 31
Control panel 21 Hook, removing 62
Cording foot 57

K
D Knit-edge foot 58
Darning 42
Detachable work support 11
L
Drawing up the bobbin thread 18
Lace-work 47
Linen buttonhole 34
E Linen buttonhole with gimp thread 34
Edge guide 26
Elastic blind stitch 28
M
Elastic stitch 31
Maintenance 61
Elastic stitches 30-32
Master switch 10
Electrical connection 10
Embroidering with the twin needle 50
N
Needle charts 59-60
Needle plate, removing 63
Needle thread tension 26
 hobby – Sewing for fun

O Stitch density 23
Oiling the machine 62 Stitch length adjustment button 23
One step buttonhole 35-37 Stitch width adjustment button 24
Open overlock stitch 32 Straight stitch 27
Overlock stitches 32 Stretch stitches, adjusting 23
Stretch triple straight stitch 30
Stretch triple zigzag stitch 30
P
Patchwork quilt 51
Practical sewing 25 T
Presser bar lifter 17 Thread cutter 18
Thread tension 14
Threading 16-17
Q
Threading the needle thread 16
Quilt and patchwork foot 58
Topstitching 26
Traditional embroidery techniques 49
R Troubleshooting 64
Repairing tears 43 Twin needle 38
Reverse sewing 24
Richelieu 50
W
Roll hemming 46
Winding the bobbin 12-13
RufÁer 56

Z
S
Zigzag stitch 27
Safety notes 2
Zippers 44-45
Serging with the blind stitch foot 28
Serging with the zigzag stitch 27
Setting utility stitches 22
Sewing feet (normal accessories) 54
Sewing feet (special accessories) 55
Sewing lamp 63
Sewing on patches 42
Sewing problems and their solutions 64
Shell edging 48
Smocking 39
Special accessories chart 55
Spool placement 12
Stitch chart 6, 7, 8
 hobby – Sewing for fun

hobby 1022 – Stitch chart

For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with
the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).

Program Name Application

Buttonhole A3, A4/2, A1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses
and bed linen
B Straight stitch For all straight stitch
needle position middle and lockstitch work up to 4 mm
C Straight stitch For all sewing and topstitch work requiring a
needle position left left needle position, stitch width 2 mm

D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm

E Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band,

darning tears and patches

F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and

simultaneous serging.
Also for stretch fabrics.
G Blindstitch For invisible hem attachment

H Shell-edging stitch For decorative hems on Àne materials, e.g. linen

 hobby – Sewing for fun

hobby 1032 – Stitch chart

For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm
with the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).

Program Name Application

Buttonhole A3 A4/2 A1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and
bed linen
B Straight stitch For all straight stitch and lockstitch work
needle position middle up to 4 mm
C Straight stitch For all sewing and topstitch work
needle position left requiring a left needle position
D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm

E Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band,

darning tears and patches
F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous

serging. Also for stretch fabrics

G Blind stitch For invisible hem attachment

H Shell-edging stitch For decorative hems on Àne materials,

e.g. linen
J Greek stitch A classical decorative stitch e.g. for borders
and towels
B Stretch triple straight For stretch seams, e.g. crotch seams on sports-
stitch, needle pos. middle and workwear

C Stretch triple straight For stretch seams requiring a left needle position
stitch, needle position left

D Stretch triple- For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials

zigzag stitch
E Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking and for
decorative hem seams

F Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers
wide
G Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers
narrow
H Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for stronger
or non-fraying materials
J Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for fraying materials
 hobby – Sewing for fun

hobby 1042 – Stitch chart

For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with
the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).
To alter the stitch width from 0 to 5, use the stitch width adjustment button (32).
Program Name Application
A Buttonhole Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen

B Straight stitch, For all straight stitch and lockstitch work up to

needle position middle to 4 mm
C Straight stitch, For all sewing and topstitch work requiring a left
needle position left needle position.
D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué

E Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band,

darning tears and patches
F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous
serging. Also for stretch fabrics.

G Blind stitch For invisible hem attachment

H Shell-edging stitch For decorative hems on Àne materials, e.g. linen

J Greek stitch A classical decorative stitch e.g. for

borders on towels
B Stretch triple straight For stretch seams,
stitch, needle pos. middle e.g. crotch seams on sports- and workwear

C Stretch triple straight For stretch seams requiring a left needle position
stitch, needle pos. left

D Stretch triple For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials

zigzag stitch
E Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic threads,
overlocking towelling
and for decorative hem seams
F Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers
wide
G Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers
narrow
H Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for stronger or
non-fraying materials
J Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for fraying materials

Ornamental stitches for M N O P

hobby 1042
Application: Embroidery, e.g. on
blouses, children·s wear and house-
hold textiles.
Operating the machine
Bobbin winding 12-13
Bobbin case 14
Changing the needle 20
Changing the presser foot 19
Control panel 21
Detachable work support 11
Drawing up the bobbin thread 18
Electrical connection 10
Free arm 11
Lowering the feed dog 20
Needle thread tension 20
Presser bar lifter 17
Reverse serging 24
Setting the utility stitches 22
Setting the stretch stitches 23
Threading the needle thread 16-17
Thread cutter 18

9
 Operating the machine
Carrying handle
Lift up the carrying handle of the sewing
machine from behind.

Carrying case
The carrying case, which is part of the
basic equipment, protects your sewing
machine from dust and damage during
transport.
Before putting on the carrying case, lift up
the carrying handle. Make sure the sew-
ing machine symbol on the carrying case
is pointing toward you.

Electrical connection
Connect the plug of the foot pedal to the
connection bushing (11) on the sewing
machine and the electrical socket.
The sewing speed is regulated by
pressing the foot pedal. For this sewing
machine has to be used foot controller
TJC-211 (220-240V) or TJC-150 (120V).

Master switch
The sewing lamp lights up when the mas-
120 V ter switch (12) is turned on. The machine
is now ready to sew.

220 V

10
 Operating the machine

Accessory compartment Organizing the accessories

The accessory compartment is found Place the enclosed accessories into the
underneath the detachable work support accessory compartment.
(13), that has to be opened.

Removing the detachable work sup- Inserting the detachable work support
port /free arm Push the pins of the detachable work sup-
In order to be able to sew with the free port (13) from the left fully into the holes
arm, you must swing the detachable work provided.
support (13) to the left and lift it out of the When inserting the detachable work sup-
hole. port, make sure that it is Áush with the
free arm of the sewing machine.

11
 Operating the machine

Preparing the machine for bobbin Mounting the bobbin

winding
Switch off the master switch (12)
Pull the handwheel (7) fully to the right.
Place the empty bobbin onto the pin of
This will prevent the needle moving while
the bobbin winding mechanism and press
the machine is winding the bobbin.
it down as far as possible. Push the bob-
bin to the right.

Note: The bobbin can only be wound if

it is moved fully to the right.

Winding the bobbin

Pull the spool holder (5) up and place a spool on it.
Place the thread clockwise into the bobbin winder tension (2) and run it to the bobbin.
Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin several times.
Turn the master switch (12) on and press the foot pedal.
Let go of the thread after a few revolutions. As soon as the bobbin is full the winding
action will be stopped automatically. Press the full bobbin to the left and remove it from
the pin.
12
 Operating the machine

Bobbin winder tension Winding a bobbin through the needle

Pass the thread through the bobbin It is possible to wind bobbins even when
thread tension (2) in a clockwise direction, the machine is threaded. Raise the press-
so that it crosses over itself on the way to er bar lifter (26) to the top position. Pull
the bobbin. the thread underneath the presser foot.

Pull the thread upward through the left-hand threader slot (18). Place the thread from
left to right through the take-up lever (28). Wind the beginning of the thread several
times around the bobbin in a clockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread Àrmly and
press the foot pedal.

Tip: While winding the bobbin, gently push down the front of the presser foot with
your finger.

Don·t forget: After winding a bobbin, press the handwheel (7) back to the left!

13
 Operating the machine

Hook cover Taking out the bobbin case

Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull
Switch off the master switch (12). the bobbin case out. Release the latch
and take out the empty bobbin.
Hold the side of the hook cover (19) and
open it towards you.

Thread tension
In order to achieve a perfect seam ap-
pearance and durability make sure the
needle tension is correctly adjusted, so
that the thread interlace is not visible on
both sides of the fabric.

The following is valid for general

sewing work:
Thread interlace is visible on the top side
of the fabric:
• The needle thread tension is too tight .
• The thread tension must be lowered.
Thread interlace is visible on the under-
side of the fabric:
• The needle thread tension is too loose.
• The thread tension must be raised.
• For fancy stitches, buttonholes and
darning the thread interlace should be
visible on the underside of the fabric.

14
Operating the machine
Inserting the bobbin
Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case.
When doing so, pull the thread sideways
through slot A and then under tension
spring B so that it rests in the opening
(see arrow).

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift latch D and push the bobbin case fully
onto pin E of the sewing hook. The bobbin
case Ànger F must point into cutout G.

Check:
Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin
case must not fall out of the hook.

15
 Operating the machine
Threading the needle thread

Switch off the master switch (12).

Pull the spool holder (5) up and mount the
thread. Raise the presser bar lifter (26).
Turn the handwheel until the take-up lever
C A (28) is at its highest position.
Thread by following the steps A to E.

Tip:
All the thread guides have an open-
ing in which you can simply lay the
threads.

D B

16
Operating the machine
Threading the needle
Thread the needle thread through the eye
of the needle from the front to the back.

Presser bar lifter

The presser foot is raised and lowered
with the presser bar lifter (26).

17
 Operating the machine
Drawing up the bobbin thread
Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle
thread and turn the handwheel towards
you until the needle is at its highest posi-
tion and the bobbin thread has formed a
loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up
the bobbin thread.

Bobbin thread
Close the hook cover (19) and pull the
thread under the presser foot to the left.

Thread cutter
Pull the thread from the back to the front
over the thread cutter (17).

18
Operating the machine
Removing the presser foot
Switch off the master switch (12).
Raise the needle to its highest position.
Press the front of the presser foot up and
the rear of the presser foot down until it
disengages from the presser foot holder
(20).

Attaching the presser foot

Place the presser foot under the presser
foot holder (20) so that when the presser
bar lifter (26) is lowered, the pins of the
foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check:
Please check that the presser foot is
properly attached by raising the presser
bar lifter.

19
 Operating the machine
Changing the needle

Switch off the master switch (12).

To remove: Lower the presser foot and
set the needle to its highest point. Loosen
the Àxing screw (23) and pull the needle
downwards.

To insert: The Áat side A of the needle

A must face to the rear. Lower the presser
foot and insert the needle, pushing it up
as far as it will go. Hold the needle and
tighten the Àxing screw (23) Àrmly.

Setting the needle thread tension

Set the required amount of the needle
thread tension (3) using the markings on
the tension dial.
The normal setting for sewing is 4-5. For
embroidery and buttonhole sewing be-
tween 2 and 3. (See page 15)

Lowering the feed dog

For certain sewing work, such as sewing
on buttons, the feed dog (22) has to be
A B lowered. To do this, open the hook cover
(19) and move the metallic slide to the
right-hand position (B) by pushing it down-
wards and then to the right. To engage the
feed dog, push down the slide and lock it
into the left-hand position (A).

20
 Operating the machine

Control panel
All the sewing programs and the relevant foot recommendations are depicted on the
control panel of your sewing machine. The various programs are selected using the
stitch pattern adjustment button (9) on the left.
With the adjustment button (30) on the right (hobby 1022, 1032) or in the middle (hobby
1042) you can adjust the stitch length, the buttonhole density and the stretch stitches.
With the adjustment button (32) on the right (model 1042) you can inÀnitely vary the
stitch width from 0 to 5 mm.

21
 Operating the machine

Setting utility stitches

All stitch patterns that you can sew with your machine are illustrated in the stitch pattern
chart (8).
Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) you can set the desired stitch by turning
the dial until the required letter appears in the adjustment Àeld (4).
The lower value shows you the optimum stitch length.

Setting fancy stitches

(model 1042 only)
Using the stitch pattern adjustment button
(9) select the fancy stitches M-P.
Turn the stitch pattern adjustment button
until the required letter appears in the ad-
justment Àeld (4).

Note: For embroidering use the clear

view foot.

22
Operating the machine
Stitch length adjustment button
With the stitch length adjustment button
(30) you can adjust the stitch length be-
tween 0 and 4 mm by turning the point
marking on the button to the required
length.

“Buttonhole” symbol
Between the numbers 0 and 1 you will
Ànd the “buttonhole” symbol. This area is
the optimum stitch density for sewing but-
tonholes. The closer you turn the dial to 0,
the denser the stitch becomes.

Setting stretch stitches

(models 1032, 1042)
All of the stitches on the darker back-
ground are stretch stitches, i.e. they are
suitable for stretch fabrics. Turn the stitch
length adjustment button (30) to the
“stretch” symbol and select the desired
stitch with the stitch pattern adjustment
button (9).

23
 Operating the machine
Stitch width adjustment button
(model 1042)
With the stitch width adjustment button
(32) you can inÀnitely adjust the width
from 0 to 5 mm.
The required width appears in the adjust-
ment Àeld (31).

Reverse sewing
The machine sews in reverse only as long
as the reverse sewing key (10) is pressed.

24
Utility stitches
and practical sewing
Buttonholes 33-37
Darning 42-43
Elastic stitches 28, 30-31
Gathering 40-41
General sewing aids 26
Hemming with
the twin needle 38
Lace work 47
Non-elastic stitches 27
Overlock stitches 32
Roll hemming 46
Sewing on buttons 29
Shell edging 48
Smocking 39
Zippers 44-45

25
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Needle thread tension
In order to achieve a perfectly sewn
seam, the needle thread tension must be
correctly adjusted. The normal setting for
utility stitches is in the range from 4 to 5.
Check the tension using a wide zigzag
stitch. The thread interlace must be be-
tween the two layers of fabric.
If the needle thread tension is too tight,
the interlace will be on the top side of the
fabric.
If the needle thread tension is set too
loose, the interlace will be on the reverse
side of the fabric.

Topstitching with the edge guide

F (special accessories)
C
For broad topstitching work we recom-
mend using the edge guide. This ac-
cessory guarantees topstitching which
is parallel to the edge of the fabric. The
edge guide is inserted into hole C and is
secured with Àxing screw F.

Feed aid for thick seams

To ensure precise feeding at the begin-
ning of a thick seam, we recommend plac-
ing a piece of fabric which is the same
thickness as the work under the back of
the sewing foot to support it.

26
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Straight stitch Zigzag stitch

Program B is the basic straight stitch in Model 1022, 1032:
center needle position.
Select stitch D and set the zigzag stitch at
Select stitch B. You can vary the stitch the required width. Refer to the marks in
length with the stitch length adjustment the adjustment Àeld.
button (30).

Straight stitch in “left” needle position

Model 1042:
Some sewing work can be accomplished
Select stitch D. You can vary the stitch
more easily by altering the needle posi-
width from 0 to 5 mm with the stitch width
tion. E.g. topstitching a collar or sewing
adjustment button (32).
on a zipper.

Model 1022, 1032: Tip: Blind stitch foot no. 3 is particu-

Select stitch C. larly suitable for serging thin materials.
While sewing, the thread passes over
the bar thus preventing the fabric edge
from rolling up. This ensures a good,
Model 1042:
smooth seam. The trimmed edge must
Select stitch C be guided along the stop. You can ad-
or just the stop with the retaining screw.
select stitch B. You can inÀnitely alter the
needle position from 0/left to 5/center with
the stitch width adjustment button (32).

27
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Elastic blind stitch, program F
The elastic blind stitch is especially suit-
able for invisible hems; sewing by hand is
no longer necessary. It is equally suitable
for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics.
The hem is sewn and serged simultane-
ously, i.e. an extra serging of the fabric
edge is not necessary.
• On materials which fray strongly, serge
the hem edge separately.
• Use blind stitch foot no. 3.
• Fold the hem width inwards.
• Lay the hem back outwards so that the
hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm.
• Lay the fabric underneath the presser
foot so that the crease line runs along
the red guide.
• The needle should only catch one
thread when entering the fabric in the
crease line.

28
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing on buttons Sewing on buttons with a thread shank

For sewing on buttons, the presser foot • Attach the presser foot.
must be removed and the feed dog must • Place a match between the holes in the
be lowered (c.f. page 20). button and sew as described in the left
• Select the 4 mm zigzag stitch, stitch D. hand column on this page.
• Remove the match and pull the fabric
and the button apart.
Model 1022, 1032:
• Wrap the shank with the sewing thread
Select stitch D. Turn the stitch adjustment
and knot it.
button (9) to the required width (refer to
the marks).

Model 1042
Select stitch D and set the stitch width ad-
justment button (32) at “4”.
• Turn the handwheel towards you and
position the button so the needle enters
the left hole in the button.
• Lower the presser bar lifter. The button
will be held in place by the shank of the
foot.
• Sew on the button. Take care to ensure
that the needle also enters the right
hand hole in the button.
• Knot the thread ends on the reverse
side.

29
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Stitch B stretch
(models 1032 and 1042 only)
Stretch triple straight stitch
Use this program for all seams which
require a high level of durability: e.g.
crotch seams.

Stitch D stretch
(models 1032 and 1042 only)
Stretch triple zigzag
The stretch triple zigzag is a very elastic
and decorative seam which is particularly
suitable for T-shirts and underwear.
• Serge the fabric edge.
• Fold over the desired hem width.
• Topstitch the hem from the face side.

30
Utility stitches and practical sewing
Elastic stitch
Stitch E
Because of its high elasticity, this stitch is
used for sewing on elastic band, e.g. on
underwear; skirt, trouser and dress waist-
bands; and cuffs.
• If replacing elastic, cut off old elastic
close to its edge.
• If needed, gather the fabric edge with
the 4 mm long straight stitch (c.f. page
40).
• Divide fabric and elastic into quarters
and mark. You may Ànd it easier to han-
dle if you pin the elastic to the fabric at
the matching marks.
• Stretch the elastic to Àt the fabric,
matching marks as you sew.
• Overlap the ends slightly and secure
with the elastic stitch.
• On skirts and pants (trousers) the
elastic is sewn onto the prepared edge
with the elastic stitch.

Honeycomb stitch
models 1032 and 1042 E stretch
The honeycomb stitch is an elastic and
decorative hem which is very suitable for
underwear and T-shirts.
• Fold the seam or hem edge over twice
and overstitch with the honeycomb
stitch.

31
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

What is an overlock stitch? Stitch J stretch

For elastic and knitted materials, the (models 1032 and 1042)
hobby models 1032 and 1042 offer over- Closed overlock stitch
lock stitches which sew two fabric layers
With this stitch you can sew jersey fabrics
together and serge simultaneously. They
perfectly. You can also sew on sleeve
are more elastic than normal seams, very
cuffs and knit collars.
durable and easy and fast to sew.
Tip: Ensure that the sleeve cuff is
Tip: We recommend using blind stitch
stretched while it is being sewn.
foot no. 3 when sewing overlock seams.
It guides particularly well and prevents
the seam puckering even on wide
seams.

Stitch H stretch
(models 1032 and 1042)
Open overlock stitch
With this stitch, thicker materials and
fabrics which do not fray strongly can be
sewn together perfectly.

Tip: Ensure that the needle sews the

right hand stitch just next to the mate-
rial and not in it.

32
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Buttonholes
Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all of the hobby models because the fabric does
not have to be rotated. To make sewing buttonholes even easier we recommend the
buttonhole foot.
Generally, buttonholes are sewn onto lined, doubled fabric. However, it is necessary to
additionally stabilize some materials such as silk, organza and rayon with backing pa-
per so that the fabric does not gather when being sewn.
Avalon (from Madeira) is very good for this purpose. This is a special type of stabilizer
that dissolves in water. On materials such as velvet and thick wool fabrics that feed
poorly it can be used either on or underneath the fabric. The material is thus fed more
efÀciently by the machine and buttonholes are much easier to sew.
Embroidery and darning threads are particularly good for sewing attractive seams.
Using a fabric marker or pin, mark the starting points of the buttonholes and always
sew a test buttonhole Àrst.

Note (models 1022 and 1032):

Before every buttonhole you must slide the runner of the buttonhole foot forward
as far as it will go, i.e. the red arrow is at the first red line. The red markings are 0.5
cm apart. The red markings give you a means of determining the length of the but-
tonhole.

Tip: It is important to always sew a test buttonhole on the same fabric/stabilizer as

your project.

33
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

B
Program A3/A4/2 /A1, Linen buttonhole with gimp thread
(models 1022, 1032) To sew especially durable buttonholes,
Stitch length symbol “buttonhole” e.g. on sportswear, we recommend using
a gimp thread.
Sewing buttonholes with the button-
hole foot On elastic materials the gimp thread is
particularly important to prevent the but-
Linen buttonhole tonhole from stretching.
• Attach the buttonhole foot and slide the
• Lay the gimp thread over the rear pro-
foot forward as far as it will go.
trusion A and pass the thread ends un-
• Position the pattern adjustment dial at derneath the presser foot towards the
A1 and sew the Àrst buttonhole seam in front.
the desired length.
• Clamp the threads to the left and right
• Select setting A4/2 and sew 4-6 stitches of protrusion B.
for the bartack. Make sure the fabric
• Slide the buttonhole runner as far
stays in position while doing this.
forwards as possible and sew the but-
• Select setting A3 and sew the second tonhole as described in the left hand
buttonhole seam in the reverse direc- column.
tion and in the same length.
• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the
• Select setting A4/2 again and sew a few buttonhole and trim the thread ends.
bartack stitches while making sure the
fabric stays in position.
• Select straight stitch setting C (left nee-
dle position) and sew a few tying off
stitches.
• Cut open the buttonhole with the aid of
a pair of scissors or a slitting knife.

34
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
1 step buttonhole
(model 1042)
For the 1 step buttonhole, the size of the
buttonhole is automatically determined by
placing the button in the special button-
hole foot R.
Buttons with a diameter up to 2.5 cm (1ß)
can be placed in the button holder of the
buttonhole foot.

Set the machine:

Stitch A
Stitch length at “buttonhole” symbol
• Place the button on the fabric and mark the upper and lower point to determine the
position of the buttonhole.
• Select the buttonhole pattern A by turning the stitch pattern adjustment button (9). Set
the required stitch width using the stitch width adjustment button (32). Push the but-
ton holder apart. Insert the button and push the button holder together as far as it will
go.
• Attach the buttonhole foot R.

35
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Pull the buttonhole lever (24) downward. • Sew slowly and stop the machine at the
• Place the garment underneath the starting point, when the buttonhole has
presser foot. Lower the buttonhole foot. been completed. The front bartack and
the left buttonhole seam are sewn Àrst
and then the rear bartack and the right
seam.
• Stop the machine after sewing the right
seam.

36
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

• In order to sew the next buttonhole turn Tip: In order to prevent damaging the
the stitch pattern adjustment button bartack by cutting open the buttonhole,
counter-clockwise until the “reverse” insert a pin into the bartack.
symbol appears. Then return the stitch
pattern adjustment button to “A”.
• The machine is now ready to sew the
next buttonhole.
• Once you have completed sewing all
the buttonholes, push the buttonhole
lever (24) upward as far as it will go.
• By pulling the bobbin thread, bring the
needle thread to the underside of the
fabric. Tie off the threads.
• Remove the button from the button
holder.

37
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Hemming with the twin needle Threading the twin needle

Topstitching work can be carried out on • Place a spool on each of the spool pins.
normal and stretch materials with the twin • Pass both of the threads through the
needle. thread guides (c.f. page 16).
Professional hems on T-shirts, knitwear • Lay the threads behind the thread
and cycling shorts can be sewn quickly guides (15) and (16) and thread one of
and easily with the twin needle. The twin the threads into each of the right and
needle is available in various widths. left needles.
Please ensure that you use the jersey
needle for stretch fabrics!
• First fold and iron the width of fabric de-
sired for the hem.
• Topstitch the hem from the face side.
• Cut the protruding hem edge fabric
close to the seam.

Tip: On difficult materials such as

ribbed knitwear it is advisable to baste
the hem before topstitching it.

38
Utility stitches and practical sewing
Smocking effect with elastic threads
Fine, light fabrics such as batiste, rayon
and silk are especially suitable for beauti-
ful smocking work. For smocking work
with elastic thread you should use an ad-
ditional bobbin case and wind it by hand
with the elastic thread. As the elastic
thread is much stronger than the normal
bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin
case must be set very loose. Don·t forget
however, the higher the bobbin thread
tension, the tighter the gathering effect.
• Sew a test seam to determine the level
of gather.
• Mark the Àrst line on the face side of the
fabric and sew along it.
• Each additional seam can be sewn at a
presser foot·s width from the Àrst row.
• When sewing several seams next to
one another, you must stretch the fab-
ric to its original length when sewing
the subsequent seams. Otherwise the
gather will be irregular.
• Knot the threads at the beginning and
end of the seam on the reverse side.

39
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Gathering with the straight stitch
With program B you can gather sleeves,
skirts and valances with a stitch length of
4 mm. To ensure a consistent gathering
effect you should sew two or three rows of
gathers.
• Mark the Àrst line on the face side of
the fabric and sew along it. Allow the
threads to extend approx. 10-20 cm be-
yond the ends of the fabric.
• Each subsequent seam can be sewn
one presser foot width from the last.
• Gather the piece of fabric by pulling
the bobbin thread. You determine the
amount of gather by how much you pull
the thread.
• Secure the gathers by knotting the
thread ends.

40
Utility stitches and practical sewing
Models 1032, 1042: stitch E stretch
Gathering with the elastic thread
Sleeve and waist seams can be gathered
with ease using an elastic thread. The
elastic thread does not have to be wound
onto the bobbin.
• Mark the Àrst gathering seam on the
reverse side of the fabric.
• Sew a few stitches using the honey-
comb stitch and leave the needle in
the fabric. The needle must be in the
middle of the presser foot. Raise the
presser foot and lay the elastic thread
around the needle.
• Lower the presser foot and sew a few
stitches. Pull the elastic thread evenly
at both ends.
• You determine the amount of gather by
the amount you pull the threads.
• The gather can also be altered after
sewing by pulling the ends of the elastic
threads.
• Knot the threads and the elastic to se-
cure the gathers.

Tip: The cording foot (special ac-

cessories) is particularly suitable for
gathering. Due to its guide grooves the
elastic is fed evenly during the sewing
process.

41
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Darning with the elastic stitch E
Darning with the elastic stitch is especially
suitable for repairing damaged areas.
• Sew over the damaged area in rows un-
til it is well covered. Take care to ensure
that the rows overlap.

Sewing on patches
To cover larger holes well, it is neces-
sary to sew a new piece of fabric onto the
damaged area.
• Baste the new piece of fabric onto the
damaged area of the face side of the
fabric.
• Sew over the fabric edges with the elas-
tic stitch.
• Trim the damaged area back to the
seam from the reverse side of the fab-
ric.

Tip: To simplify turning the corners of

the patch, turn the handwheel until the
needle is in the fabric. Raise the press-
er foot and pivot the fabric.

42
Utility stitches and practical sewing
Repairing tears
On tears, frayed edges or small holes it
is useful to lay a piece of fabric under the
reverse side of the fabric. The underlaid
fabric reinforces the workpiece and en-
sures you a perfect repair.
• Lay a piece of fabric underneath the
material. It must always be a little larger
than the damaged area.
• Sew over the damaged area in accord-
ance with the size of the tear.
• Trim the underlaid piece of fabric back
to the seam.

43
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Sewing in zippers For all types of zip-
There are different ways to sew in zip- pers it is important
pers. For skirts we recommend inserting to sew close to the
a centered zipper. For men·s or ladies· teeth of the zipper.
pants (trousers), a lapped zipper works The zipper foot can
best. Different types of zippers are availa- be engaged in the
ble in retail stores: invisible, metal, plastic, foot holder to the
jeans and outerwear to name a few. We left or right, depend-
recommend metal zippers for heavier fab- ing on the method
rics such as jeans. For all other materials of insertion. If the foot is attached on the
a plastic zipper will work well and create a left, you can also use the needle position
softer Ànish to your completed garment. “left” (c.f. page 27).

Inserting centered zippers • Sew the second half of the zipper paral-
(concealed on both sides) lel, the same distance from the center
• Attach the zipper foot to the right side. seam as the Àrst half.
• Baste or pin the zipper in place and • Stop shortly before the end of the seam
position it under the presser foot so and leave the needle in the material.
that the teeth run along the side of the Raise the presser foot and open the
presser foot. zipper.
• Sew in half of the zipper, leaving the • You will now be able to complete the
needle in the material. Raise the press- seam.
er foot and close the zipper.
• You can now sew the rest of the seam
to the end of the zipper and stitch the
cross-wise seam.

44
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Trouser zippers • Shortly before the end of the seam,

• Press the left front seam allowance open the zipper and Ànish sewing the
over 1/8ß (4 mm) narrower than the ac- seam.
tual seam allowance. • Close the zipper and baste the overlap
• Baste the zipper under the overlapping evenly onto the other zipper half.
edge so that the teeth are still visible. • Stitch along the basted seam.
• Engage the zipper foot on the right and
set the needle to the required position. Tip: To achieve accurate seams we rec-
ommend using the edge guide (special
• Stitch close to the edge of the zipper accessories).
teeth.

45
 Utility stitches and practical sewing
Roll hemming
With the roll hemmer (special accesso-
ries) you can Ànish the edge of blouses,
scarves, or rufÁes without having to iron
the edges beforehand. Hemming prevents
the edges from fraying and produces a
neat and durable edge Ànish.
• Double-fold the fabric edge
(about 1/8ß/2mm per fold).
• Place the folded fabric edge under the
hemmer and sew a few straight stitches
B, stitch length 2.5-3 mm, to secure.
• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the
presser foot and insert the fabric into
the hemmer foot scroll.
• Lower the presser foot and while sew-
ing, guide the fabric edge evenly into
the hemmer. Ensure the fabric does
not run underneath the right side of the
presser foot.

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fab-

rics, the roll hem is particularly attrac-
tive with a zigzag stitch.

46
Utility stitches and practical sewing
Lace-work
Lace inserts
A beautiful heirloom effect can be
achieved on christening wear, children·s
clothes and other garments with lace in-
serts.
• Baste the lace to the face side of the
fabric.
• Stitch very close to both edges of the
lace using straight stitch.
• Carefully slit the fabric behind the lace
at the center. Press these edges to-
wards the garment.
• Overstitch both edges of the lace with a
small zigzag stitch.
• Cut away the excess fabric on the back
of your project.

Lace edges with corners

Tablecloths, napkins and clothing can all
be beautifully enhanced with lace trim-
mings.
• Serge/clean-Ànish the fabric edges.
• Stitch the lace onto the face side of the
fabric up till the Àrst corner.
• Fold over the corners and stitch them
diagonally.
• Continue until all edges are stitched.

47
 Utility stitches and practical sewing

Shell edging Tip: If you add a colored pearl cotton

The shell edge is very effective for thin, thread at the edge you can strengthen
soft fabrics such as silk and rayon fabric. the shell edging and obtain a pretty
It is frequently used as an edge Ànish on contrast at the same time. Instead of
undergarments.The higher the needle pearl cotton thread you can also place
thread tension, the deeper the shell edge a different colored light fabric under-
feed. neath.
• Serge the fabric edge and iron over the
seam allowance.
• Make sure that the fabric runs under
the presser foot at half of the foot width.
This provides a more prominent shell
edging effect.

48
Traditional embroidery
techniques
Combined Borders 50
Embroidery with the twin needle 50
Hemstitching 52
Patchwork quilt 51
Richelieu 50

49
 Traditional embroidery techniques

Richelieu Combined Borders

This very artistic form of bar and eyelet (model 1042 only)
embroidery is easy to create with your You can create borders of any width by
sewing machine. combining different embroidery programs.
• Transfer your pattern onto the right side Tip: Apply iron-on backing or other sta-
of the fabric using a fabric marker. bilizer under the fabric.
• Place two layers of water-soluble stabi-
lizer under the area to be embroidered
and tightly hoop the fabric and stabi-
lizer.
• Attach foot number 0 to your machine.
• To make the embroidery more stable,
sew all of the contours twice using the
straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1
mm).
• Carefully cut away the fabric from the
areas that will form the cutouts approxi-
mately 1/8ß (2 mm) from stitching. Do
not cut away the stabilizer – it helps
maintain the shape and stability of the
areas while
sewing. Embroidering with the twin needle
• Embroider the contours with a satin (model 1042 only)
stitch zigzag. Additional embroidery effects can be
achieved using a twin needle. To avoid
• When all satin stitching is completed,
needle breakage, the twin needle spac-
tear away large areas of water-soluble
ing must not exceed 2 mm and the stitch
stabilizer and dissolve remaining small
width must not be greater than 3 mm. A
areas in water.
description of how to thread the twin nee-
dle is found on page 38.

50
 Traditional embroidery techniques

Patchwork quilt And this is what you do

Quilting is a traditional hand sewing • Cut out the pieces of your quilt top us-
technique. The method that the wives of ing templates you have bought or made
American settlers developed to make use yourself. A seam allowance of 1/4ß (6.3
of material remnants has become a very mm) should already be included in the
popular artistic hobby for many sewing templates.
enthusiasts. • Spread these pieces out in front of you
Patchwork quilts used to be sewn exclu- in accordance with the pattern and form
sively by hand. Nowadays, however, you small squares which you can then put
have the possibility to make your creative together. These squares will then be
ideas a reality in a much shorter time. sewn together and will form the top ply
A quilt always consists of three layers of of the quilt.
material. Lots of geometrically shaped • The seam allowances of quilts are usu-
pieces of material are joined together in ally not serged and are always pressed
continually changing patterns to form the towards the darker fabric side.
top layer of the quilt. This is tacked onto • Baste the completed quilt top to the
the middle layer of polyester or cotton bat- batting and backing. In traditional quilts
ting and connected to the back layer of these three layers of material are then
the quilt. The quilt backing is usually one sewn together by hand with small stitch-
uniform piece of fabric. es. However, it is quicker and more
practical with the sewing machine, i.e.
with the straight stitch. Quilting is usu-
ally stitched about 3 mm away from the
seam. Use foot number 0 or the quilt
and patchwork foot (see page 58).
When the quilting is Ànished you can
simply bind the edges or make it into
cushions, wearable art or other smaller
projects.

51
 Traditional embroidery techniques

Hemstitching Hem edge sewn with hemstitch seam

Hemstitching is an old embroidery tech- • Iron the hem over twice and pull one or
nique and can be used to secure edges more threads out from above the hem.
on table linen as well as for decoration • Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew
on clothing. For your hemstitching work the hem from the face side. The nee-
you will require a wing needle (special dle must perforate the hem on the
accessory) and coarse linen out of which right hand side and bundle the pulled
you can easily pull the single threads. threads on the left hand side.
Furthermore, embroidery and darning
thread is particularly suitable. With the
stretch zigzag stitch you can sew various
hemstitching techniques such as the wale
hemstitch seam, a hem sewn with the
hemstitch and a hemstitch seam as an
edge. Use the normal presser foot (0).

Wale hemstitch seam

• As with the hand hemstitch seam the
threads are pulled out to the desired
width.
• Using a narrow stretch zigzag stitch,
sew along both of the fabric edges. The
needle must perforate the area of the
pulled threads just next to the edges.
This bundles the threads. Hemstitching seam as edge
This edge is used for very Àne, thin mate-
rials. It is particularly suitable for valances
and rufÁes. No threads have to be pulled.
• Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew at
a presser foot·s width along the edge of
the fabric.
• Using a small pair of scissors, trim
off the excess fabric on the hemstitch
edge.

52
Accessories and needles
Bias binder 56
Cording foot 57
Felling foot 57
Knit-edge foot 58
Needle chart 59, 60
Quilting and patchwork foot 58
RufÁer 56
Sewing feet
(normal accessories) 54
Special accessories chart 55

53
 Accessories and needles
Sewing feet (normal accessories)
0 Standard presser foot
Part no: 98-694 847-00

3 Blind-stitch foot
Part no: 98-694 845-00

4 Zipper foot
Part no: 98-694 843-00

1 Fancy stitch foot (model 1042)

Part no: 98-745 804-00200

5 Buttonhole foot (models 1022, 1032)

Part no: 98-694 882-00

R Buttonhole foot (model 1042)

Part no: 98-745 801-00/900

Screwdriver Part no: 93-040 971-41

Bobbins Part no: 93-040 970-45
Machine oil Part no: 93-035 910-91
Knife Part no: 99-053 016-91
Needle system Part no: 48-020 804-32
130/705 H
54
 Accessories and needles
Sewing feet (special accessories)
The special accessories are for special sewing work. They are available from your
dealer.
Designation Order no. Sewing work
Pintuck foot with guide 820224-096 For embroidering
areas between
pintucks
Pintuck foot, 5 grooves 820226-096 For pintuck work
(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0)

Pintuck foot, 7 grooves 820227-096 For pintuck work

(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0) (needle size 80)

Straight stitch foot with round hole 820235-096 Attention! Only use
straight stitch in needle
position middle

Finger guard 820236-096 For all sewing work

Edge guide 820251-096 For topstitching

Felling foot 4.5 mm 820218-096 For Áat felled seams

Felling foot 6.5 mm 820219-096 For Áat felled seams

Fancy stitch foot 820229-096 Multiple uses

e.g. for buttonholes

RufÁer 820255-096 For sewing dense

(remove presser foot holder) or broad pleats on
valances etc.
Cording foot 820234-096 For cording

Quilt foot 820212-096 For sewing

patchwork parts
and quilting
Roll hemmer 2 mm 820220-096 For hemming edges

Hemmer 4 mm 820221-096 For hemming edges

Hemmer 820249-096 For hemming edges

Bias binder 820245-096 For binding edges

with bias tape
Knit-edge foot 820216-096 For sewing together
knitwear
Non-stick foot 820240-096 For sewing leather

The following pages contain application examples of some special accessory feet.
55
 Accessories and needles

Bias tape binder RufÁer

Binding with bias tape is a very easy With the rufÁer you can make closely or
method of giving fabric edges a smooth widely spaced pleats automatically while
and neat appearance. For this you need sewing. This is very useful for rufÁes, frills,
unfolded bias tape about 1ß (24 mm) wide. home textiles, etc.
• Remove the presser foot and holder. At- The rufÁer can be used in three different
tach the bias binder. ways:
• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a 1. Folding and securing pleats in fabric.
diagonal. 2. Folding pleats in fabric and securing to
• Feed the tape into the scroll of the a second fabric in one operation.
binder and pull out to the back. 3. Folding pleats in fabric, attaching lace
• Adjust the binder and/or the needle and securing to another fabric in one
position so that the needle pierces the operation.
fabric approximately 1/16ß (1-1.5 mm) When you buy the rufÁer from your
from the folded edge of the bias tape. PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions
• Stitch about 1ß (2.5 cm) along the bias are included.
tape.
• Insert the edge of the fabric to be bound
between the bias tape edges into the
slot of the binder. The bias tape will en-
close the raw edge automatically during
sewing.

Tip: You can obtain an additional deco-

rative effect by using a zigzag or fancy
stitch.

56
 Accessories and needles

Felling foot Cording foot

Flat felled seams are particularly strong Cording is a technique in which pearl
and are commonly known as jeans thread or a Àne cord is overstitched to
seams. Seams on sportswear and chil- produce a purl seam. With this you can
dren·s wear, blouses and shirts are more obtain an effect similar to braiding. Ap-
durable with this technique. You can make pliqués can also be made more effective
these seams particularly decorative by us- with this seam.
ing a sewing thread of a contrasting color. • Attach the cording foot.
The felling foot is available in two different
widths. • Place the pearl thread in the foot so it
leads through one of the grooves at the
• Attach the felling foot to the presser foot front and lies under the presser foot at
holder. the back.
• Place the fabrics wrong sides together. • Select a narrow satin zigzag stitch.
• Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply
by about 3/8ß to 5/8ß (1-1.5 cm).
Model 1022, 1032: Select stitch D with
• Place this overlapping edge over the the pattern adjustment button (9) and then
tongue of the felling foot. The fabric the zigzag stitch in the required width. Set
must be placed fully under the presser stitch length to “buttonhole”.
foot.
• Sew along the folded edge with a
straight stitch (stitch length 2.5-3 mm). Model 1042: Select stitch D with the
pattern adjustment button (9). Set stitch
• Separate the fabric and feed the pro- length to “buttonhole” and stitch width to
truding hem into the felling foot. The “2”.
hem is turned over by the foot and is
overstitched along the edge. Pull the • Overstitch the pearl thread with a nar-
two fabric layers taut during sewing. row satin zigzag stitch. This produces
what is known as the purl seam.

Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable

effect by overstitching a medium pearl
thread with a thread of a different color.

57
 Accessories and needles

Knit-edge foot Quilt and patchwork foot

As the knit-edge foot has a presser foot The quilt and patchwork foot allows you
sole of varying height, thick knitted fabrics to sew accurate 1/4 or 1/8ß seams. The
can be sewn with ease. To do so select distance from the needle to the outer right
the open or the closed overlock stitch edge of the foot is 1/4ß (0.63 cm) and to
(models 1032 and 1042) or the zigzag the inner right edge 1/8ß (0.31 cm).
stitch. In order to obtain a perfect seam
Patching
on knit fabrics, we recommend oversew-
ing a wool thread, pulled slightly taut, into • Attach the quilt and patchwork foot.
the seam. This will give the seam addi- • Sew together your pieces of fabric with
tional strength and keep it from stretching the straight stitch. For a seam allow-
out of shape. ance of 1/4ß, guide your fabric along the
outer right edge of the foot. For a seam
allowance of 1/8ß, guide your fabric
along the inner right edge of the foot.

Quilting
(Sewing through the top layer, Áeece layer
and bottom layer of the quilt)
• Sew the three layers of the quilt (e.g.
with the straight stitch) approx. 3 mm
from the seam line.

58
 Accessories and needles

Needle chart
Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material

Fabric weight Fabric weight Fabric weight

light medium heavy
Needle Needle Needle
60 70 75 80 90 100 110 120

Needle points
System & No. Profile Point and eye Suitable for

130/705 H Light Universal needle for linen, chiffon,

Needle size 60-130 ball point batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet,
fancy seams and embroidery.
130/705 H-SUK Medium Coarse knitted fabrics, Lastex, double-
Needle size 70-100 ball point knit, jersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex.

130/705 H-PS Medium Stretch-fabric needle particularly

Needle size 75-100 ball point suitable for stretch and knitted fabrics.

130/705 H-SKF Large Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex

Needle size 90-110 ball point and Lastex.

130/705 HJ Sharp Twill, workwear, heavy linen-fabrics,

Needle size 90-110 round point blue jeans, light canvas and sailcloth.

130/705 H-LR Narrow twist Leather, suede, calf goat skin.

Needle size 80-100 point (right)

130/705 H-PCL Narrow wedge Imitation leather, plastics,

Needle size 80-110 point (left) foils and oilcloth.

130 H-N Light ball Topstitching with buttonhole silk or

Needle size 70-110 point with synthetic threads no. 30/3.
long eye
130/705 H-WING Hemstitching Effective hemstitching on batiste,
Needle size point organdy and glass cambric.
100/120
130/705 H-E Medium Especially for embroidery.
Needle size 75/90 ball point

130/705 H-Q Small Top-stitched seams for quilting.

Needle size 80/90 ball point

130/705 H-M Sharp For working on microtex fiber.

Needle size 60-80 round point

59
 Accessories and needles

Needle chart

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for

spacing
130/705 H-ZWI 2.5 mm – 1.6 mm normal pintucks
Size: 80 2.5 mm – 2.0 mm normal pintucks
130/705 H-ZWI
Size: 80 2.5 mm – 2.5 mm wide pintucks
Size: 90 2.5 mm – 3.0 mm extra wide
Size: 100 3.0 mm – 4.0 mm pintucks

Fancy patterns with twin needles

Before sewing the desired embroidery stitches, check whether needles can penetrate
freely, by turning the handwheel. In this way, needle breakage is avoided as much as
possible.

Ornamental stitch patterns / zigzag patterns

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for
spacing
130/705 H-ZWI
Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm wide 1.6 mm embroidery
Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.0 mm embroidery
Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.5 mm embroidery

Hem stitch/special twin needle

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for
spacing
130/705
H-ZWI-HO
Size: 80 2.3-3.0 mm very narrow – Decorative
Size: 100 2.0-3.0 mm very narrow – hem stitch effect.
Well-finished
woven fabric
and fine
batiste are
particularly
suitable

60
Maintenance and
troubleshooting
Changing the sewing lamp 63
Cleaning and oiling 62
Removing the needle plate 63
Troubleshooting 64

61
 Maintenance and troubleshooting

Removing the hook Pull the hook cover ring out towards you.

Switch off the master switch (12).

To unlock the hook, fold open the black
bar of the hook race. Take out the bobbin
case.

Note: Turn the handwheel (7) until the

needle is at its highest position.

You can now remove the hook. Cleaning and oiling

• Clean the hook race with the brush.
• Place one drop of oil into the hook race
(every 15-20 hours of operation).
The machine is maintenance-free and
must not be oiled at any other points.

62
Maintenance and troubleshooting
Removing the needle plate
Raise the presser foot holder (26) and
remove the presser foot. The needle must
be at its highest position.
• Remove the detachable work support
(13). Loosen the two screws with the
screwdriver and lift the needle plate
(14).
• Clean the feed dog (22) with the brush.

Changing the sewing lamp.

Switch off the master switch (12).

• Remove the detachable work support
(13). The sewing lamp (bulb) is located
inside the needle head of the machine.
Turn the bulb half a rotation counter
clock-wise and remove the bulb. Insert
the bulb in the reverse order.

Important! The maximum permissible

wattage of the bulb is 15 watts.

63
 Maintenance and troubleshooting

Sewing problems and their solutions

Problem/Cause Remedy
1. The machine skips stitches
The needle is not properly inserted. Push needle fully upwards. Flat side
facing the back.
Wrong needle is in use. Use needle system 130/705 H.
Needle is bent or blunt. Insert a new needle.
The machine is not properly threaded. Check how the machine is threaded.
Needle is too small for thread. Use a larger needle.

2. Needle thread breaks

See reasons above. See above.
Thread tension is too tight. Adjust thread tension.
Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has Only use good quality threads.
become dry after overlong storage.
Thread is too thick. Use needle with large eye (system 130 N).

3. Needle breaks off

Needle is not pushed fully in. Insert new needle and push fully in.
Needle is bent. Insert new needle.
Needle is too thick or too thin. See needle table (Page 59, 60).
Needle is bent, and has hit the needle Only guide the fabric lightly.
plate because you are pulling
or pushing the fabric.
The bobbin case is not properly inserted. When you insert the bobbin case,
push it fully into the stop.
Pull lightly on the end of the thread to
make sure bobbin case is secure.

4. The seam is sewn unevenly

The tension needs adjusting. Check needle thread tension.
Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard. Only use good quality threads.
The bobbin thread is unevenly wound. Do not wind thread by hand.
Make sure thread is pulled solidly into
bobbin tension spring.
Thread loops at top or underside of fabric. Re-thread machine.
Check the needle thread
tension.

5. The machine does not feed or feeds irregularly

Sewing lint has collected between Remove needle plate,
the feed dog teeth rows. remove lint with brush.

6. The machine is running with difÀculty

There are thread remnants Remove the threads and apply a drop
in the hook ways. of oil to the hook.

Important notes: Before changing presser feet and needle the master switch must be
switched off. Do not attempt to sew without fabric under the presser foot.
When leaving the machine, even for only a short time, switch off the master switch.
This is important if there are any children nearby.

64
Technical Data
Dimensions (w x h x d) 392 x 149 x 296 mm
Weight 6,6 kg
Nominal voltage 120 V / 220...240 V
Power consumption 80 W
Sewing lamp 15 W
Sewing speed max. 900 stitches / min.
Stitching width max. 5 mm
Stitching length max. 4 mm
Presser foot lift 5 mm
Max. presser foot height 11,5 mm
Needle system 130 / 705 H

Package contents
Sewing machine
Carrying case
Foot control
Lead cord
Accessories
Instruction manual

Please note that on disposal, this product must

be safely recycled in accordance with relevant
National legislation relating to electrical/
electronic products. If in doubt please contact
your retailer for guidance
296-29-00 311/000E • English • Inhouse • © 2002-2007 VSM Group AB • All rights reserved • Printed in Sweden on environmental-friendly paper