Pocket Pads by Emzed
Cloth Menstrual Pads
An Original Design
By Michelle Zoetemeyer (Copyright 2017)
Level
Advanced beginner
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What are Pocket Pads?
I have been making and using cloth pads for over five years; at first by preference, now by
necessity. Unfortunately, disposable pads no longer cope with my heavy flow. Since I prefer
to let nature take its course and not undergo surgical intervention, I require a pad that is
absorbent enough to provide protection on my heaviest days (…and I mean HEAVY), while
not looking as though I am wearing a surfboard. Given I work in an industrial environment
and am required to wear occupation specific clothing, which includes trousers and shirts
(tucked in at all times – shudder!); I need a pad that is not visible under my work clothes.
While Pocket Pads are not invisible, they certainly do the job without letting everyone know
that they should probably avoid me for three or four days
Unlike other pads that come in a range of shapes and sizes for various levels of flow, Pocket
Pads by Emzed are fully customisable, so provide me with the flexibility I need for even my
heaviest days, without the need to change designs.
How do Pocket Pads stack up against other cloth pads?
The truth is, I don’t know. I have been making my own pads since I started wearing cloth
pads and have never ventured to purchase any other kind. I would be interested in hearing
feedback from those who have tried other styles and brands.
Having looked at hundreds of other pads and tried several designs of my own, I have not
come across any quite like the Pocket Pad. While there are many similar designs that allow
for the addition of boosters, none take advantage of the additional two layers (and comfort)
the pocket provides. Over the years of making pads with pockets in them, I have concluded
that these are by far and away the best design for me. While I accept that they may not be
the best design for you, I encourage you to give them a try.
Pocket Pads – A closer look.
1. Basic Pad
The basic pad can be made without the pocket for a lighter flow. It provides three layers of
protection, including:
1 x waterproofing layer
1 x absorbent insert
1 x layer of cotton/flannel
Additional layers of fabric can be added to the basic pad for additional protection, making it
an ideal all-in-one for regular flow days (Note: cut an additional “Pad Top” piece for each
additional layer you want to add).
Note: The pattern provides for an optional backing of cotton. While this layer provides no
absorptive benefit, I found it does help keep that pad in place against your underwear;
especially if it’s made with pinwale corduroy. It also looks pretty!
2. Pocket Pad
The pocket pad contains the additional protection of two more layers of fabric right were you
need it most. When worn without a booster, the Pocket Pad provides five layers of protection,
including:
1 x waterproofing layer
1 x absorbent insert
3 x layers of cotton/flannel
3. Pocket Pads – With Boosters
I recommend boosters made from three layers of fabric sewn together (1 layer of bamboo
fleece sandwiched between two layers of cotton/flannel). The ones I make are 10” long by 5”
wide and fold in half lengthwise to give six additional layers of protection. However, I have a
variety of boosters; some made with one or two layers of bamboo fleece, some triple fold,
some double or single fold. The reality is, you can use any kind of booster you like. You can
even use recycled towels, layers of cotton sewn together; whatever fits in the pocket of the
pad.
When worn with the recommended booster included in this pattern, the Pocket Pad provides
a whopping 11 layers of protection, including:
1 x waterproofing layer
3 x layers of absorbent inserts
7 x layers of cotton/flannel
Despite the additional layers, the Pocket Pad remains relatively thin (and small) compared
with other pads that provide the same level of protection. They are also really easy to wash
and dry as the Pocket Pad is disassembled for laundering.
Fabric Recommendations
Category 1
100% Cotton fabrics - including quilting cotton, flannel/flannelette, interlock, velour,
pinwale corduroy
100% bamboo fabrics - including woven, interlock, velour
100% hemp fabrics - including woven, interlock (check for softness. Some hemp can
be quite rough)
Any fabric made from a combination of cotton, bamboo or hemp
Fabrics in this category are suitable for:
o Pad top
o Pad back
o Pocket
o Booster - Outer
Since these are the layers that will be close to the skin, fabrics made from natural fibres
(organic is best) and a soft hand are a great choice. I prefer quilting cotton and flannelette,
but have also used bamboo interlock with good success.
Category 2
Fabrics made from cotton, bamboo and hemp fabrics; however, this time you want a
fabric with extra absorption; therefore, fleece, terry and velours are a better option.
Microfiber
Proprietary fabrics such as Zorb
Fabrics in this category are suitable for:
o Pad inserts
o Booster Inserts
Note: many pads use layers of cotton or flannelette as inserts. While this is perfectly
acceptable, you will need many more layers to achieve the same level of protection. Multiple
layers make washing and drying the Pocket Pads somewhat more difficult.
Category 3
1mm PUL fabric
Fabrics in this category are suitable for:
o Waterproof layer
o Wet bags (not included in this pattern)
For those who don’t like plastic, you can use a more natural protective layer such as wool,
but in my opinion, you can’t beat PUL for comfort, durability and most of all; protection.
Remember, I designed the Pocket Pad for a super duper flow, so it would defeat the purpose
somewhat (in my opinion) to use anything less than a 100% waterproof layer.
About the Pattern
I am by nature a lazy person. I have been sewing for over 35 years and still look for better
and more efficient ways of doing things. While many of the Pocket Pads I have made in the
past have been more complex and had a marginally better aesthetic appeal, they have
predominately been made in small batches. Truth be known, they have been made up as I
went along (I’m one of those annoying people who can actually pull this off). Recently
however, when I decided to retire 14 of my current pads after over 5 years of use (not that
they needed it - they were made with overlocked edges and were starting to look a little
tatty), I decided to finally make a pattern. As I said, I am lazy and don’t really enjoy all the
fiddly cutting that comes with making pads - all those damn layers! Never mind trying to line
up all the layers into something slightly uniform in shape.
With laziness in mind, I set out to design a pattern that required minimal cutting and lining up.
While some might argue that my approach wastes fabric, I have found that unless you are
laying out your pads in some fancy mosaic design on the fabric (don’t laugh, I’ve done this,
until I realised a saved about 11 cents for an extra 3 hours work), then my approach doesn’t
actually use more (the offcuts from pads with wings are pretty useless either way).
Having said that, feel free to arrange your pattern pieces however you like, but the
instructions will show you how to do it in a way that will save you time and effort (and lots of
swearing).
I use a rotary cutter and cutting mat for most of my cutting, as I tend to make Pocket Pads in
small batches. However, since precision cutting is not required, a pair of scissors and a tape
measure will do fine as long as you can cut a reasonably straight line.
Sounds easy, right? Well, let’s get started!
Materials
To make one (1) Pocket Pad and Booster:
11.5” x 35” piece of category 1 fabric
11.5” x 9” piece of category 2 fabric
11.5’’ x 6.5” piece of category 3 fabric
2 snaps (Velcro or buttons are also suitable)
If you wish to mix and match your fabrics, refer to the table in Step 2 to determine the
minimum cuts for each of the pattern pieces.
Instructions
Seam Allowance
1/3” (8mm) seam allowance has been included in pattern
Step 1: Print and cut pattern pieces
Check your scale on the printer before cutting pattern pieces. The measurements are
included so that you can check the size is correct before starting (where possible,
select “Actual Size” in printer options).
Cut out the two the pattern pieces. That’s right; there are only two pattern pieces!
Only one piece is truly required, but I included the pocket piece to make it look like
you were getting value for money - and to fill the page
Fold a piece of A4 paper into quarters.
Lay the “pad top” pattern piece on the folded A4 sheet of paper.
Trace around the pattern template.
Cut long the pattern line while keeping the sheet of paper folder into quarters.
Open pattern piece up. You now have a full sized template for the “pad top”.
Step 2: Cut Pattern Pieces
Cut the following pieces from your fabric:
Pattern Piece Height Width Quantity Fabric
Pad Back 11.5” 8.5” 1 Category 1
Pad Top 11.5” 8.5” 1 Category 1
Pocket 8.5” 4” 2 Category 1
Pad Insert 11.5” 4” 1 Category 2
Waterproof Layer 11.5” 6.5” 1 Category 3
Booster Outer 10” 5” 2 Category 1
Booster Insert 10” 5” 1 Category 2
Lay your “pad top” pattern on the the designated piece of fabric and cut around it.
This is the only piece that requires precision cutting.
Fold your pocket pieces in half (length wise) and trim the ends off each pocket to
make a slight curve as follows (I wasn’t joking when I said you didn’t need the printed
pattern piece!). Alternatively, use your “pocket” pattern piece to make the curves.
Step 3: Make the pocket
Place the two pocket pieces right sides together and sew around outside, leaving a
small opening through which to turn the pocket right side out.
Clip corners and turn pocket right side out through the opening (Hint: use chopstick to
turn corners).
Press pockets
Top stitch the ends only
Step 4: Attach the insert
Place the insert on the underside of the the “pad top” so that it sits in the centre of the
pad (I just eyeball this step, but for those of you who are more precise than I, folding
the “pad top” in half lengthwise and pressing a line down the centre will help with
placement).
Stitch down the centre of the insert to hold in place and to create a channel for
wicking fluids into the centre of the pad.
Step 5: Attach the pocket
Place the pocket on the centre of the “pad top” so that it has equal space at each
corner (Once again, I just eyeball this step, but guide lines can be used for an exact
placement - and for those who have way too much time on their hands )
Starting at the end of the pad, attach the pocket by sewing a straight line from top to
bottom, making sure the stitching lines up with the sides of the pockets – make a
couple of reinforcing stitches at the end of each pocket.
Trim the ends of the pad
Step 6: Assemble the Pad
Assemble the pad from the bottom up in the following order:
1. “Pad back” right side facing
2. “Pad top” wrong side facing (insert showing)
3. PUL shiny side down
Stitch around the outline of the pad, keeping an opening for turning the pad right side
out.
Trim the excess fabric from around the pad (told you it was easier than all that fussy
cutting and aligning, didn’t I?)
Turn the pad right side out, making sure you turn between the “pad top” and “pad
bottom” (this step will make way more sense when you go to turn the pad inside out).
Top stitch around pad, making sure your opening is tucked in so it’s nice and neat.
Press completed pad. Yes, go on, press it! It will look much better for it, I promise!
Step 7: Attach Fasteners
Do you need instructions for this? OK then, just make sure your snaps are right side
up and they close together when in place.
Step 8: Make Booster
This is the easy part, yay!
Stack one “booster outer”, one “booster insert” and one “booster outer” with the right
sides of fabric showing on the top and bottom of the stack.
Overlock (or serge if you’re American) around the edges.
I know you don’t need it, but here’s a picture of the boosters:
Step 9: Assemble The Pocket Pad
Step 10: Gloat
Aren’t they pretty?
Look at how thin they are!
Yay, I did it (Well, I hope you did it. If not, let me know what went wrong and I’ll try to
assist).