Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute Of Fashion Technology

New Delhi
TEXTILE
INTERNSHIP

REPORT

ARVIND LIMITED | DENIM DIVISION

ARUSHI SRIVASTAVA
VAISHALI RAI
CERTIFICATE

This is

to certify that Arushi Srivastava and Vaishali Rai of BFT-V,

National

Institute

Of Fashion

Technology, New

Delhi did their internships at

Arvind
Limited |

Denim Division,

Naroda, Ahemdabad from

May 26, 2013 to June 15, 2013 towards the partial fulfillment of
the program B.F.Tech (Apparel Production).

This project report has been created and compiled by them

under the guidance of

Ms. Girija Jha and is their authentic work.

Arushi Srivastava
Vaishali Rai

Ms. Girija Jha

Mentor

Page 2
 Acknowledgement

At the outset, we wish to

express our gratitude to
everybody who has assisted in
the formulation of this report.
There are many to whom
expression of gratitude is
inevitable, but there some
special people who have to be
given prominence, without
whom we would not have
reached the conclusion of this
project so quickly and so
efficiently.

We are grateful to Dr. Senthil

Kumar for guiding us
throughout the internship. We
would like to thank our Course
Coordinator and mentor Ms.
Girija Jha and Mr. N.A. Khan,
who has always added to our
buoyancy with her tremendous
efforts and for her constant
support.

At Arvind Limited, we would

like to thank the HR manager,
Ms. Richa Ahuja; our industry
mentor, Mr. Diwaker Tiwari,
Chief Manager- Manufacturing
and Mr. Mahesh
Ramakrishnan, head of the
Agribusiness Department. Also,
we would like to express a
special gratitude to the
company for being excellent
hosts.

We take this opportunity to

express our affection towards
our parents for their consistent
faith and support.

Arushi Srivastava

Vaishali Rai
Page 3
 Contents

1. About the
Company

1.1. Introduction

07

1.2. Journey

09

1.3. Company’s
Vision

11

1.4. Divions

1.4.1. Denim

12

1.4.2. Woven
Fabrics

13

1.4.3. Knits

16

1.4.4. Garment
Export

17

1.4.5. Advanced
Materials
18

1.4.6. Arvind
Brands

19

1.4.7. Mega
Mart Reta

20

1.4.8. The Arvind

Store

21

1.5. Executive
Leaders

22

1.6. Board of
Directors

24

1.7. Denim
Division

28

1.8.
International
buyers

30

1.9. Own Brands

31

2. Production
Process
2.1. Process
Flow Chart

32

2.2. Spinning

2.2.1. Process
Flow

33

2.2.2. Blow
Room

34

2.2.3. Carding

38

Page 4

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT

2.2.4. Drawing

40

2.2.5. Spinning
42

2.3. Warp
Dyeing

2.3.1.
Introduction

46

2.3.2. Rope
Dyeing

48

2.3.3. Slasher
dyeing

54

2.4. Weaving

59

2.5. Finishing &

Processing

2.5.1.
Introduction

61

2.5.2. Wet
Finishing

62

3. Denim
Incubation
Department
3.1. Design
Team

66

3.2. Design Line

69

3.3. Innovation
Pipeline Denims

70

3.4. Technical
Team

71

4. Quality
Assurance &
Standardization

4.1. Introduction

74

4.2. Process
Defects

76

4.3. Testing

4.3.1. Physical

79

4.3.2. Chemical

80

4.3.3. Shade
82

4.4. Packaging &

Shipping

83

4.5.
Accreditations

84

Page 5
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

5.

Project Report-

5.1. Better Cotton Initiative

87

5.1.1. Introduction

89

5.1.2. Features

90

5.1.3. The Better Cotton System

91

5.1.4. Production Principles

92

5.1.5. Criteria For Assessment

92
5.1.6. Audit Information

93

5.1.7. Products Traceability Along The Supply Chain

93

5.1.8. Support

94

5.1.9. Costs

94

5.1.10.

Countries & Regions

96

5.1.11.

Overview of Requirements

98

5.2. BCI at Arvind Limited

5.2.1. Introduction

101
5.2.2. Farm Projects

102

5.2.3. Contract Farming

103

5.2.4. Benefits

5.2.4.1.

Economical Benefits

105

5.2.4.2.

Environmental Benefits

106

5.2.4.3.

Social Benefits

106

5.2.5. Quality Assessment

107

5.2.6. Results & Analysis

108

5.2.7. Conclusion

109

6.

References

110

Page 6
 About the Company | Introduction

Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year
1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind
invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552
doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days
to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged
facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year
1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82
lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place
amongst the foremost textile units in the country.

In the mid 1980’s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power
loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite
mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw
Arvind at its highest level of profitability. There could be no better time,
concluded the Management, for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind management
coined a new word for it new strategy – Reno vision. It simply meant a new way
of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became the
corporate philosophy.

The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvind’s markets shifted
from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods.
An in-depth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener. People the
world over were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the
largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular
priced segments, Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches.

Page 7
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim for
leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By
1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third
largest producer of Denim in the world.

In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, the
largest of its kind in India, at Santej. With Arvind’s concern for environment a
most modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability
was also established.

Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber agreement
getting phased out and the disbanding of quotas, international textile trade was
poised for a quantum leap. In the domestic market too, the rationalizing of the
cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail industry was likely to make
textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations
by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop
service, by offering garment packages to its international and domestic
customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic
brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, Arvind set its vision
of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.

Page 8
 About the Company | Journey

1931

The inception of Arvind Mills Limited at the hands of three brothers -

Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai

1934

Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the

country.

1980
Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy – ‘Reno
vision’, points at changing the business focus from local to global,
towards a high-quality premium niche market.

1987-88

Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim
for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.

1991

Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.

Page 9
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

1997

India’s largest state-

of-the-art facility for
shirting, gabardine
and knits is set up at
Santej.

2005

Arvind creates a
unique one-stop shop
service on a global
scale, offering
garment packages to
reputed national and
international
customers.
2007

Arvind expands its

presence in the
brands and retail
segment by
establishing
MegaMart – One of
India’s largest value
retail chains.

2010

Arvind launches The

Arvind Store, a
concept putting the
company’s best
fabrics, brands and
bespoke styling and
tailoring solutions
under one roof. Arvind
launches its first major
Real Estate projects.
Arvind becomes one
of India’s largest
producers of fire
protection fabrics.
Page 10

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Page 11
 About the Company | Divisions

Denim

The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India.
Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum,
Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been

Arvind’s core competency and have played a key role in Arvind’s success.
The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of
world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in
the international markets.

All Arvind’s products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert
design inputs coming from Arvind’s designers based out of India, Japan,
Italy and the

United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of
distinctiveness and quality.

Some Examples:
Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge

Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen

Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes

Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim

Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001,
OEKOTEX 100,

GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvind’s labs are certified by NABL
(ISO

17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.

Page 12
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Woven Fabrics

Shirting & Bottom

weights

Arvind’s expertise in
new age shirting fabric
and bottom weights is
unparalleled. Arvind’s
shirting fabrics have
consistently fetched a
premium in the local
and international
markets. Arvind’s
state of the art facility
is capable of
producing a total of 65
million meters per
annum of Shirting and
bottom weight fabrics.
This capacity is set to
increase reaching a
total of 84 million
meters by the next
financial year.

We have a dedicated
in-house design team
constantly working on
product innovation
and fashion forecasts
for the domestic and
international markets.
We also boast of the
largest yardage and
sampling mill in India.

Arvind’s spinning setup

can produce a variety
of counts for yarn
types like compacts,
slubs, signed yarn etc.
Arvind’s weaving
capabilities include
high-speed

Airjet looms and

Rapier looms. Arvind’s
finishing capabilities
include continuous
bleaching and dying
ranges, caustic
mercerization, and
machinery for various
chemical and
mechanical finishes.

Page 13
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

A sophisticated and
supremely flexible
package dying facility
complete with vessels
ranging from 1 Kg to
750 Kgs and state of
the art printing
facilities are also in
place.

In addition to cotton
we now work with a
variety of fibers
incuding Modal,
Tencel, Excel, Viscose,
Bemberg, Lycra, Silk,
Linen, Polyester and
Nylon.

We are host to India’s

first Ammonia
Mercerization Plant

We use patented
technology to impart
structural stability and
superior hand-feel for
the difficult-to-handle
firbers like Modal,
Tencel, Excel and
Viscose

Over the years,

Arvind’s inhouse R&D
department has
sucessfully developed

and perfected a
number of finishes
adding value to
Arvind’s products and

uniqueness to Arvind’s
range.

Other Chemical
Finishes: Wrinkle free,
Prepress, Everfresh,
Easy to Iron,

Stain Repellant, Nano

Care, Anti-Bacterial,
Permawhite etc.

Mechanical Finishes:
Aero, Peach, Brush,
Diamond Emery and
Carbonium
Arvind’s product range
is certified by
Oekotex, Arvind’s
processes are certified
by

GOTS for producing

Organic products,
we're certified
producers of Lycra and

Teflon based varieties,

while Arvind’s
laboratory is
accredited by Marks
and Spencers, Next,
Gap Inc., Levi's,
DuPont and INVISTA.
Page 14
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Voiles

Arvind has been well

poised as a leading
manufacturer of super
fine fabrics in India. An
uncontested market-
leader in the
manufacture of voiles,
Arvind still continues
to manufacture the
traditional fabric for
both domestic and
international markets.
The legacy of Arvind
transcends from the
olden days into a
golden future with a
production capacity of
36 million meters per
annum. Arvind’s voiles
are primarily used as
blouse material and
are sold in the
domestic market
through an impressive
network of around
150 dealers, reaching
over 5000 retail
outlets throughout
India. High quality
Swiss voiles are
exported to
Switzerland, Sri Lanka
and countries in the
Middle East.
Page 15
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Knits

Arvind’s knits
department has an
annual knitting
capacity of 5,000 tons.
The knits vertical has a
fabric dyeing capacity
of 5000 tons per
annum and yarn
dyeing capacity of
1800 tons per annum.
It has the ability to
process both tubular
and open-width
fabrics and offers
specialty fin+ishes like
mercerization,
singeing and various
forms of brushing and
peaching.
Basic knits:

Jersey, Pique, Rib, and

Interlock

Specialty knits: Yarn-

dyed, Auto stripers,
Jacquards, and Stretch
fabric

Fibers: Cotton, Excel,

Viscose, Modal,
Polyester

Finishes:
Mercerization,
Brushing, Peaching,
Aero-finish.

Marks & Spencer –

Eddie Bauer – Zara –
Josepha Banks
Page 16
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Garment Exports

A world without
boundaries is a
promise of a global
marketplace. At
Arvind, our range of
fabrics is universal in
appeal. We aim to
inspire a diverse mix
of customers
enriching lifestyles
globally. We have
successfully
established ourselves
as a one-stop shop for
apparel solutions
catering to an array of
national and
international clients.
Bottoms: 7.2 million
pieces of jeans per
annum

Formal & Casual tops: 6 million

pieces per annum

Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per

annum

Our specialized capabilities for

adding value to our products
include:

Automated Placement Printing

Machinery

India’s largest washing

facility with Tonello
machines for wet
proesses

Bohemian machines
and Laser tech for
unique and
automated dry
processes

Skilled artisans for

hand processes
Gap Inc – Patagonia –
Tommy Hilfiger –
Quicksilver – Brooks
Brothers – Silver Jeans
– Calvin Klein – FCUK –
Pull & Bear – Jack &
Jones – Energie –
Esprit – S.Oliver –
Mexx – Sisley –
Benetton – Coin

Page 17
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Advanced Materials

We envision world
leadership in the field
of advanced materials
offering high-tech
textile solutions for
critical and composite
applications.

Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3

billion Lalbhai Group
company has created
the Advanced Textiles
Business. Building
further on our legacy
of innovation, we have
brought a new level of
sophistication to
manufacturing fabrics.
Our Pro1 range of
branded fabrics and
composite textiles
includes solutions for
growing industrial
sectors like Personal
Protection, Industrial
Filtration, Wind
Energy, Defense, Auto
Components,
Transportation, and
Housing &
Infrastructure.

Products in the Pro1

range include:

Fire Protection Fabrics

Chemically treated Flame

Retardant Fabrics

Proban

Pyrovatex

Inherent Fire Resistant

Fabrics

Nomex

Protex (Modacrylic)

High Tech Applications

Filtration Fabrics

Anti-Ballistic Fabrics

Nylon Fabrics

Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics

Page 18
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Arvind Brands

Arvind is amongst a
few organizations
worldwide with a
portfolio of brands
that are as distinctive
and relevant across
diverse consumers. At
Arvind, brands work
across multiple
channels, price points
and consumer
segments. The
expanse of the Arvind
brandscape is spread
across the Indian
market with around
273 standalone brand
stores in addition to
975 counters selling
through key accounts
and multibrand
outlets across India.
Own Brands

Licensened Brands

Joint Venture Brands

Mainstream

Bridge to Luxury

Bridge to Luxury

Excalibur Gant

U.S.A. 1949

Tommy Hilfiger

Flying Machine

Energie’

Popular

Premium

Premium

Ruf & Tuf

USPA

Lee

New Port University

Arrow

Wrangler
Izod

Popular

Cherokee

Mossimo

Page 19
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Mega Mart Retail

Arvind runs India's

largest Value Retail
Chain - Megamart.
The MegaMart format
offers a unique and
differentiated
proposition to the
consumers. It offers
mega brands at
amazingly low prices
and provides a retail
experience of a high-
end department store.

The Megamart stores

range in size from
2000 sq ft to 65000 sq
ft. The larger stores
are called Big
Megamart and there
are 6 such stores
across Bangalore,
Chennai, Pune and
Mumbai. The smaller
formats spreads
across the country are
205 in number.
Megamart is
expanding rapidly and
is expected to be a Rs.
1000 cr chain within
the next two years.

The brands sold

exclusively in
Megamart include:

RUGGERS - SKINN -
ELITUS - DONUTS -
KARIGARI - MEA CASA
- AUBURN HILL -

BAY ISLAND - COLT -

LEISHA- EDGE
Page 20
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

The Arvind Store

After decades of ruling

the national and
international fabric
markets, Arvind has
now introduced The
Arvind Store, a unique
concept in fabrics and
apparel retail. The
Arvind Store bring
together, under one
roof, the best that
Arvind has to offer.

It is a convergence of
three of Arvind’s
strongest capabilities,
the best of fabrics from
Arvind’s textiles
division, leading
apparel brands from
Arvind Brands and
bespoke styling
solutions based on the
latest garment styles
from Arvind Studios. In
a world where bespoke
tailoring meets cutting
edge fashion, The
Arvind Store will create
a shopping experience
to rival the best in the
Indian Marketplace.

Over a 1000 different

fabric styles across
shirting, suiting and
denim Leading apparel
brands such as Arrow,
US Polo & Flying
Machine Arvind
Denim Labs (ADL), a
bespoke denim
concept offering
customized washed
denim - a first of its
kind in India and
perhaps the world

Arvind Studio – A
styling and tailoring
solution to rival the
best brands in the
world

Page 21
 About the Company | Executive Leaders

Corporate

Jayesh Shah

Director & CFO

Anang Lalbhai

MD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle Fabrics

Aamir Akhtar

CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim

Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics

PD Chavda

President, Voiles

Lifestyle Apparel

Ashish Kumar

CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts

Page 22
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Brands & Retail

J.Suresh

Managing Director - Brands & Retail

Knowledge Academy

Milan Shah

CEO, Knowledge Academy

Page 23

About the Company

|
Board of Directors
MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI

(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)

Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and
Managing Director of the Company. He is a Science
Graduate with a Master's degree in Business
Management and has been associated with the
Company for more than 33 years. He also holds
directorships in Arvind Lifestyle Brands Limited,
Arvind Retail Limited, Arvind Brands & Retail
Limited, Amol Decalite Limited, Torrent
Pharmaceuticals Limited, Arvind Worldwide Inc.,
USA, Arvind Worldwide (M) Inc., Arvind Overseas
(M) Ltd. Arvind Spinning Ltd., Mauritius and Arvind
Textile Mills Limited, Bangladesh.

MR. JAYESH SHAH

(DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)

Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Wholetime

Director with the designation of Director and Chief
Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce
Graduate and a Chartered Accountant and has been
with the company since 1st July, 1993. He has a
distinguished academic career and extensive
administrative, financial, regulatory and managerial
expertise. He also holds directorships in many other
companies.
Page 24
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

MR. PUNIT LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE
DIRECTOR)

Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30

years, is an MBA from
INSEAD (France)
specializing in Strategy
and General
Management, along
with Post-Graduate
degree in Masters of
Environmental Science
from Yale University,
and a Bachelors
degree in Science
(Conservation Biology)
from University of
California, USA. He has
several awards and
honors during his
career including
Research Grants,
Presidential
Fellowship Grant, J.M.
Long-Endowed
Scholarship and
inclusion in Dean’s
Lists for consistent

Academic Excellence.

MR. KULIN LALBHAI

(EXECUTIVE
DIRECTOR)

Mr. Kulin Lalbhai,

27years, is an MBA
from Harvard Business
School (USA), along
with a Bachelors
degree in Science
(Electrical
Engineering) from
Stanford University,
USA. He has held
several leadership
positions during his
academic role
including serving as
Co-President of Family
Business Club at
Harvard, Associate
Director for Stanford
Asia Technology
Initiative and also
serving as Conference
Co-Chair for the
Harvard-India
Conference.

Page 25
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

OTHER DIRECTORS

Mr. Sudhir Mehta

(Non-executive and
Independent Director)

Mr. Sudhir Mehta is a

Science Graduate
from Gujarat
University. He was
instrumental in the
growth and progress
of Torrent
Pharmaceuticals Ltd.,
the flagship Company
of the Torrent Group.
He systematically
expanded the power
business of Torrent
Group by acquiring
significant stakes in
the Torrent Power
AEC Ltd. and Torrent
Power SEC Ltd. and
Torrent Power
Generation Limited,
now merged with
Torrent Power Limited
and one among the
few successful
independent power
projects in India.

Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia

(Non-executive and
Independent Director)

Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia

is a Gold Medalist
from Baroda
University and he has
a Doctorate in
Economics. He has 41
years of professional
experience including
33 years at IIM,
Ahmedabad. He has
been a consultant to
various national and
international
organizations. He was
awarded many awards
including Padma Shri
by the Government of
India in recognition of
his distinguished
services in the field of
education in 2007,
Bharat Asmita
National Award for his
contribution to
management
education and
teaching by the
Hon’be Chief Justice of
India in 2008 etc.

Page 26
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Mr. Munesh Khanna

(Non-executive and
Independent Director)

Mr. Munesh Khanna,

50 years, is a
Chartered Accountant
from ICAI. He has
been with the
Company since 27th
October, 2007. He has
over 20 years of
experience in the
financial, regulatory
and taxation domain.
He has an extensive
network of
relationships with
Indian Corporates.

Ms. Renuka Ramnath

(Non-executive and
Independent Director)

Ms. Renuka Ramnath

is the Founder and
Managing Director of
Multiples Alternate
Asset Management
Pvt. Ltd. which seeks
to manage circa $450
million of Indian and
International capital.

Mr. Prabhakar R.
Dalal

(Nominee Director of
EXIM Bank of India)

Mr. Prabhakar R. Dalal

is the Executive
Director of EXIM Bank
of India having
qualifications of
M.Com, LL.B, CAIIB
and PGDFERM and a
fellow of the Indian
Institute of Banking
and Finance (FIIBF).

He has six years’

experience in
commercial banking
after joining as PO and
28 years’ experience
in International Trade
Financing, Projecting
Financing,

Institutional Relations,
Corporate Banking
and Corporate
Finance.

Page 27
 About the Company | Denim Division

Arvind is a pioneer in the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed

capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, The Naroda plant accounts for 89%
of the company's total denim fabric capacity of 108 million meters.

CEO of the Arvind denim division is Mr. Aamir Akhtar.

Arvind denim holds the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the world; and
an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in this category
include ring denim, indigo voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade
certified denim. This is apart from regular light, medium and heavy weight denims.
They come in various shades of indigo, sulfur, yarn-dyed, in 100% cotton and
various blends.
Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in their
success in producing the highest quality of denim and being the market leaders.

Page 28
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

They have a huge

DNTG department
that is Development
and New technology
that is the hub of
innovation for denims.
The use of
sophisticated
ultramodern
technology under the
guidance of world-
renowned designers
has enabled Arvind to
deliver many firsts in
the international
markets. The facilities
of Arvind Denim are
accredited with ISO
9001, ISO 14001,
OEKOTEX 100, GOTS,
Organic exchange
standard, FLO for fair
trade and Lycra
Assured. As one of the
largest denim
producers in the
world, Arvind caters to
quality markets of
Europe, US, West
Asia, the Far East and
the Asia Pacific. Labs
are certified by NABL
(ISO

17025 certification)
The labs are
accredited by Dupont,
Levi Strauss, GAP.

All the products are

designed and modeled
on the basis of expert
design inputs coming
from our designers
based out of India,
Japan, Italy and the
United States. All
Arvind Denim
products come with
the hallmark of
distinctiveness and
quality.
Page 29
About the Company | International Buyers
Page 30
About the Company | Own Brands
z
Page 31
Production Process | Process Flow Chart
Page 32

Production Process
|
Spinning
PROCESS FLOW OF SPINNING DEPARTMENT:
Packaging

Spinning

Drawing

Carding

Blow Room

[Blending]

LAY OUT

SLEEVE ROOM

COTTON GODOWN
BLENDOM

AT

FILTER

BLOW ROOM

YARN STORAGE AREA

FILTER

ROOM
CARDING

EXTENSION CARDING

DRAW FRAME
AUTO

CORO

STORE
AUTO CORO

Page 33

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

BLOW ROOM
Input

Cotton Bales

-Full of trashes or impurities i.e. leaves, seed, chaff, metallic

particle, dusts etc.

Purpose


Opening

Cleaning

Mixing or blending

Dust removal

Uniform feed to the carding machine

Output

Clean & open small tufts

No. of Machines

2 Lines with 12 machines

Machine make

Trützschler

No. of Operators

2 Operators ( 1op/mc)

To convert the mass of cotton

fibres in to a uniform thick sheet of
cotton both longitudinally and
transversely in the form of
To open the compressed layer of
compactly built lap.
bale of cotton or any staple fibres.
OBJECTIVES

To blend different varieties of

To extract the impurities like

cotton in the desired

broken seeds, leaves, sand,

proposition to prepare the raw

stone & iron particles, short

material for the spinning

fibres, immature fibres, dust,

process.

dirt by opening and beating.

Page 34
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

PROCESS FLOW
OF BLOW
ROOM:

Blendomat

GBR

GBR

AFC

AFC

MPM-8

MPM-8

ASTA

ASTA

BE-961

BE-961

SRS-6

SRS-6

RN

RN
BE-981

BE-981

RSK

RSK

DUST-EX

DUST-EX

FBK 533

FBK 533

CARDING

Page 35
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT


Blendomat

Blending of different
types of cotton to
maintain consistency

GBR

Cotton Opener

Converts bales into

small tufts

AFC

Axi-Flow Cleaner

Separation of heavy
parts (impurities) from
cotton

MPM-8
Multiple Mixer with 8
Chambers

Sorts the cotton fibers

& is used for
homogenous mixture
of fibers

ASTA

Heavy trash
separation from

BE-961

Reservoir trunk with

opening & cleaning

SRS-6

Cleaning
Page 36
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT


RN

Cleaning

BE-981

Reservoir trunk with

opening & cleaning

RSK

Cleaning

DUST-EX

Removal of Dust &

Micro dust

FBK 533
Enables continuous
feeding from Blow
Room to Carding
Page 37
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

CARDING

Input

Clean & open small tufts

Purpose

To open the flocks into individual fibers


Cleaning or elimination of impurities

Reduction of neps

Elimination of dust

Elimination of short fibers

Fiber blending


Fiber orientation or alignment

Sliver formation

Output

Sliver

No. of Operators
2 Operators ( 1op/10mc)

No. of Machines

20 machines

Machine make

Trützschler

Model

DK 803

Production

18,000 kg/day

Card cleaning efficiency

62-67%

CV%

1.2-1.7%

Front Delivery speed

325 Pascal
Page 38
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Carding is the process

of removing impurities
from fibers and
producing a carded

sliver of parallelized
and straightened
fibers

Before the raw stock

can be made into
yarn, the remaining
impurities must be
removed, the fibers
must be disentangles,
and they must be

straightened.

The straightening
process puts the fibers
into somewhat
parallel CARDING.

The work is done by carding

machine.
The lap is passed
through a beater
section and drawn on
rapidly revolving
cylinder covered with
very fine hooks or wire
brushes slowly moves

concentrically above
this cylinder

As the cylinder
rotates, the cotton is
pulled by the cylinder
through the small gap
under the brushes;
the teasing action
removes the
remaining

trashes, disentangles
the fibers , and
arranges them in a
relatively parallel
manner in form of a
thin web.

This web is drawn

through a funnel
shaped device that
molds it into a round
rope like mass called
card sliver.
Card sliver produces
carded yarns or
carded cottons that
are serviceable to
produce denim
fabrics.

After carding, the

carded slivers go to
the draw frame.

Page 39
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

DRAW FRAME

Input

Slivers

Purpose


6 Slivers are converted into 1

Parallelization of fiber

Enhancement of Density

Blending

Auto-leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness

Output

Sliver

No. of Operators

3 Operators ( 1op/4mc)

No. of Machines

6 Breakers + 6 finishers

Machine make

Trützschler

Model

HSR 900

Production

3.5 ton/day
Drawing is the process where the fibers are blended, straightened and the number
of fibers in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired linear density in the
spinning process. The drawing process also improves the uniformity or evenness of
the sliver. The number of drawing passages utilised depends on the spinning system
used and the end products

Page 40
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

In arvind mills, the

sliver is drawn
through the draw
frame twice.

1ST PASSAGE:

Parallel alignment of fibers, 6

slivers are converted into one
sliver.

2nd PASSAGE:

Output of the second

passage of draw frame
goes into open end
spinning.
Page 41
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

SPINNING

The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology

spinning.

Fehlafharft’s AUTOCORO spinning machine.

No. of Machines installed - 24 (in all 3 units) – 11+7+6

Total number of rotors in each Spinning Unit:

AML Section – 2376 rotors

EOU Section – 1680 rotors

RDP Section – 1440 rotor.

Twist produced: Z twist only.

Yarn length on creel: 64800 meters.

Automatic piecing: Corolap automatic splicer

Count: 5.3 to 20 count.

6 slub forming machine

The yarn formed is rolled in form of cheese, cone and bobbin.

The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.

Page 42
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Open end
spinning:

Rotor Spinning is a
more recent method
of yarn formation
compared to Ring
Spinning.

This is a form of open-

end spinning where
twist is introduced
into the yarn without
the need for package
rotation. Allowing
higher twisting

speeds with a
relatively low power
cost.

In rotor spinning a
continuous supply of
fibers is delivered from
delivery rollers off a
drafting system or from
an opening unit.

The fibers are sucked

down a delivery tube
and deposited in the
groove of the rotor as
a continuous ring of
fiber. The fiber layer is

stripped off the rotor

groove and the
resultant yarn wound
onto a package.
The twist in the yarn
being determined by
the ratio of the
rotational speed of
the rotor and the
linear speed of the
yarn.

Sliver is fed into the

machine and combed
and individualized by
the opening roller.

Page 43
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

The fibers are then

deposited into the
rotor where air current
and centrifugal force
deposits them along
the groove of the rotor
where

they are evenly

distributed.

The fibers are twisted

together by the
spinning action of the
rotor, and the yarn is
continuously drawn
from the center of the
rotor. The

resultant yarn is
cleared of any defects
and wound onto
packages.

The production rates

of rotor spinning is 6-8
times higher than that
of ring spinning and as
the machines are fed
directly by sliver and
yarn

is wound onto
packages ready for
use in fabric formation
the yarn is a lot
cheaper to produce.

Rotor spun yarns are

more even, somewhat
weaker and have a
harsher feel than ring
spun yarns.

Rotor spun yarns are

mainly produced in
the medium count (30
Ne, 20 tex) to coarse
count (10 Ne, 60 tex)
range.

The yarn is wound on

a big package of about
4 kg.

The use of this system

has two basic
advantages. It is fed by
sliver, not as with the
ring frame by roving,
and so eliminates the
speed
frame from the
process line. It can
also be modified to
remove any remaining
trash, thereby
improving the yarn
quality.

Page 44
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Ring Spinning Open-end Spinning

Bobbin rotates constantly for insertion

Spool does not need to be rotated to

of twist

insert twist
Cannot handle spools of bigger size

Much larger spools can be wound

Can spin finer yarns

3-5 times faster than ring spinning

Uniform and strong yarn

Uniform but flexible yarn with better

dye ability
Combed yarns (finer)

Carded yarns (coarser)

Yarns for varied applications

Yarns for heavier fabrics such as

denims, towels and poplins

Stronger

20% more twisted but 15-20% weaker

as the yarn is coarser

Suitable for all staple fibers

Not suitable for man-made staple fiber

spinning
Page 45

Warp Dyeing
|
Introduction
Warp Dyeing-

Normally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing. The
dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the yarn stage. Generally there are two most
popular methods of dyeing Denim followed. They are:

Rope Dyeing

Slasher/Sheet Dyeing
Process flow of each of the above mentioned processes are discussed in detail below.

Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming

parallel sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping machines

can process all type of materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns,
monofilament, textured and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic yarn such as glass.

A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver beam. A

weaver beam contain thousand of ends, but in denim production a beam obtain from
warping is known as section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn that’s why
first section beam can be obtained and then these section beam are combined on the
stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends for weaving process. In denim
production initially the yarns are first dyed and then weaving process is carried out .

Page 46
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

There are two

method of yarn
dyeing in denim
production Rope
dyeing.

Slasher dyeing.

Warping method used

for both method of
dyeing are different.
The process used for
rope dyeing is known
as “BALL WARPING”
and for slasher dyeing

“BEAM WARPING”
method is used.

BEAM WARPING BALL

WARPING
Page 47
 Warp Dyeing | Rope Dyeing

ROPE DYEING

Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the threads of denim
yarn are initially twisted into a rope, and then undergo a repetitive sequence of
dipping and oxidization. The more frequent the dipping and oxidizing, the stronger
the indigo shade.

rope = 350-460 ends

Process Flowchart-

Ball Warping

Rope Dyeing

Re-Beaming

Sizing

Ball Warping- the process of winding warp in rope form onto balls.

Balls are cross wound packages and warp is form of rope.

Technical Details as per the company-

5 Machines in total for the process

1 operator is required per machine

Machine setup time/creel changing time is 20 min

Stop Motion / Defect sensor

444 ends per creel

320 metes/min creel’s rpm

4 hour cycle time

Page 48
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

2) Rope Dyeing-
the process of dyeing
the yarn in rope form.

Morrison Rope dyeing

range is installed at
Arvind, Naroda.

Machine passage- 800

meters; 5 rolls are
used per chamber
run. Machine Units
for the process-

i)

Pre Wetting

Temp- 70+/- 30 ⁰C /
85⁰C for Sulphur
BottomSq.

Zone

Pressure PSI- 70
Dancer Weights- 3

ii)

Pre

Tank 2 is cold wash

after sulphur
bottoming I done

Washing

to prevent color
slippage and then tank
3 and 4 hot

Zone

wash.

iii)

Dyeing Zone

Ph range- 12.45,

Redox potential
-820mv to -860mv
Sq. Pressure- 85 +/- 3
PSI

Dancer Weight- 6

*For indigo dyeing dip

time: air time is 1:6

iv)

Wash

Temp- 50+/- 5 ⁰C

Zone

Sq. Pressure PSI- 90

Dancer Weights- 6

Ash flow- 100+/-5

v)

Hot Wash

Temp- 85⁰C

Zone

Ph range- 12.60 –
12.85

Redox- -810 to -660

Sq- 75 PSI

Dancer Weight- 6

Drying Cans

48 cylinders in total

5 bar pressure

Coiling Units
Litter waste and final
collected separately

Page 49
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

*Shade Checking
System-
Spectrophotometer is
also present in the
machine

In this method a warp

beams first converts
into rope beamers and
then transfer to the
Rope Dyeing machine
for the further
process.

Rope-dye ranges
enable to produce
pure indigo, sulfur
bottom, sulfur top,
and colored denim
yarn. The yarn goes
through scour/sulfur
dye, wash boxes,
indigo dye vats, over a
skying device (to allow
oxidation to occur),
through additional
wash boxes, over
drying cans and then
is coiled into tubs
which are transferred
to the Re- Beaming
process.

The speed range of

this machine is 0 to
30m/min with the
production capacity of
2 sets in same time.

Production per day is

36000x2=72000m; at
the speed of 25m/min

Count range in rope

dyeing is (16s to 6/s)
OE and Slub both.
Page 50
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

3) Re-Beaming -
Re-opening the rope
and winding it on
beams so that they

can be sized on next

step.

Technical Details as
per the company-

13 Machines in total
for the process

1 operator is required
per machine

Machine setup time is

25 min

441 combs per

machine

96000 meter/ day/

machine
Sizing – To cover the
yarn with size
material in order to
prevent breakage
during the weaving
process due to the
tension it undergoes.

Technical Details as
per the company-

3 Machines in total for

the process, for
regular sizing and
third for experiments
and tests.

2 creels set at a time

lodged in the
machine, one spare
and one running

1 operator per
machine & 2 assistant
operator per machine
required
Page 51
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Process-

Each sheet separated by the guide roll (10 sheets, 10 guide roller)

Passes through the size box/Sow box at a temp of 90⁰C and any of the 4 recepies
mentioned as

per the requirement

64 reed, 43” water, 600gm NS powder/binder, 100kkg with starch

Anilose E starch, mutton tallow 4 kg

800gm NSC, 64+60 stretch reed ( everything else same)

1500g binder, 68+72 reed ( everything else same)

125 DN size, no binder, 48 water- 4 Count: Special Slot

Drying slot- approx. 125⁰C temp and 4 cylinders

Accumulator- 2 accumulator beams with 120 m capacity each

Recepie (SBIT Mix)

*SBIT stands for Sulphur Bottom Indigo Topping

Chemical

Box(gpl)

Feed(gpl)
S. Black

170/480

Caustic

1.5
Page 52
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Sulphide

10

35

Xekol SNS

1.5

1.9

Setamol WL

0.57

1.9

Primasol NF

1.9
 Ph +/- 0.2

12.45-12.70

12.55-12.85

Condition

Indigo

Sulphur

Redox +/-

820-860

610-660

20
Wetability Type of Bath for BOX MIX

Instant to 3 seconds Dark INDIGO

Conductivity at the start

50 o 60 ms
Page 53
 Warp Dyeing | Slasher Dyeing

SLASHER DYEING

In continuous slasher / sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping beams are
used, instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing system. At the back
end of the slasher / sheet dyeing range, the direct warping beams are creeled. The
yarns sheet from each beam is pulled over and combined with the yarns from the
other beams so that multiple sheets of yarns can be made.

In sheet dyeing range, the total No of required ends for a weavers beam are dyed,
dried, sized and dried simultaneously. This continuous slasher dyeing range
eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing, such as re-beaming,
sizing.

Process Flowchart-

Pre wetting

Washing

Dyeing
Washing

Drying

Sizing

Drying

Page 54

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Machine Units for the process-

i)

Pre Wetting

Temp- 70+/- 30 ⁰C / 85⁰C for Sulphur Bottom

Zone

Nip Pressure- 50 +/- KN

(Dyeing tank)
 3
Dancer Pressure- 2.5 kg/cm

ii)

Dyeing

Nip pressure= 55+/-3

Temp= room temp

Dyeing capacity= 10,000 l /6 tanks

iii)

Washing

1500 l

iv)

Drying

8 cylinders
6 bar pressure in total

v)

Sizing

2 squeezing rolls and 2 immersion rolls of 15m

depth
vi)

Drying

12 cylinders in total

Cans

5 bar pressure

vii)
Accumulator

220m capacity

viii)

Compensator

Winding tension 3000/ KN

and leasing
Page 55
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Recipe

Sulphur

Indigo

Decol- 2 gpl

Septamol WS- 3 gpl

Sodium sulphite- 15 gpl

Indigo- 75 gpl

Caustic- 5 gpl

Caustic- 75 gpl

Sulphur- X gpl
Hydrosulphite- 115 gpl

Penitrol- 7 .5 gpl

Denim HS (leveling agent)- 7.5 gpl

Anti oxidant- 3 gpl

Machine Setting Specification- SBIT mix

Machine spec

Machine speed

28 +/- 1 meter/min

Head stock press

6+/- 1 Bar
Creel tension

110 +/- 100 N

Page 56
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Pre wet

d.p

3 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing pressure

50

+/- 3 bar

55

+/- 3 bar
PW temp

85

˚ +/- 4

Washing Flow rate

2000 +/- 500 lit/hr

Dyeing

D.P.

3 +/- .5 bar
2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

2.5 +/- .5 bar

3 +/- .5 bar

Squeezing Pressure
(i)– (ii)

45

+/-3 bar

Page 57
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Washing Zone

D.P. 2.5 +/- .5 2.5 +/- .5 3.0 +/- .5

Squeezing Pressure

(i) 5-0 +/-3 bar

Temp

50 +/- 4˚ C
Page 58
 Weaving | Introduction

WEAVING is interlacement of the warp (length-wise indigo or sulphur dyed yarn) and the
filling (grey yarn cross wise yarn) producing denim in a variety of weights and styles.

Input

Warp Beam and Weft yarn

Output

Woven Denim Fabric

No. of Operators

6 Operators ( 1op/9mc)

No. of Machines

54

Machine make

Tsudakoma
Model

ZAX 9100

Production

95000m/day

Max. Fabric Width

71.5”
Page 59
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

AUTHENTIC DENIM

A heavy weight fabric

Made of cotton yarn

with no yarn
characteristics

3/1 right hand twill

100% natural indigo

dyed

Weft and warp count 7

& 6 respectively with
36 picks per inch

TYPES OF YARNS
USED

Warp: Organic,
Conventional
Weft- Open end, Ring
spun, Slub, Lycra,
Polyester, Poly lycra
Page 60
 Finishing & Processing | Introduction

Finishing and Processing

Arvind Mill, Naroda boasts of 2 integrated finishing ranges and 2 other finishing
departments. In integrated denim finishing range, the singeing and shrinking is carried
out in a single range. This reduces the process time, material handling, cost of
production and labour cost.

Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important
role infabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage.

The department churns out 300000 meters of finished denim cloth a day.

The main purposes of applying various finishes may be summarised as under.

HIGH SALES APPEAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance, supple handle,

softness and good drape.
HIGH WEAR QUALITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion strengths,
dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling.

BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat insulation, moisture
absorption and air permeability.

SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced flammability, mildew and

moth-proofing, anti-static behaviour and soil release property.

Page 61

Finishing & Processing

|
Wet Finishing
1) Wet Finishing Department
Process Flow Chart:

Singeing Unit

Mercerizing Unit

Stentering Unit

Wet Finishing Unit

Singeing Unit

Craddle Unit
Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Singeing Unit

Nip Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching & Plaiting Unit

Page 62
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Unit Specification-

Capacity: 40-50 m/min

Production: 41000-
45000 m/ day

15000-17000 m/shift

CNG Gas Burner

90˚ Flame Interaction

3 operator per
machine

Mercerizing Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit
Caustic Impregnatorr

Stablizer Unit

Washing Unit

Acid Unit

Drying Zone

Outlet J Unit
Page 63
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Stentering Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padder

Foam Coating Unit

Cliping Unit

Chamber

• CNG Fire

• Blower

• Heat Setting

Coling Drum

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit
Page 64
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Wet Finishing Unit

Inlet J Unit

Brushing Unit

Chemical Padding

Nip

Width Adjusting line

Skew line

Mahalo Unit

Dry Stack Section 1 & 2

Rubber Unit

Palmer Unit

Outlet J Unit

Batching Unit
Page 65
 Denim Incubation Department | Design Team

DID is a critical unit for the innovation and creativity that Arvind mills projects. The
department has been constituted in such a manner that it has 2 parts-

The Design Team

The Technical Team

Design Team:

The design team has a constant responsibility of re-innovating denims.

It consists of fashion consultants from Europe and other countries along with the
textile experts and textile designers.

The team works together to create a completely different denim design. Though it seems
like innovation in design in denims has limited scope,

this group of professionals use their creativity and constant thinking skills to come up
with unprecedented designs.

They follow trends, customer feedback and various trends in the various parts of the
world, research it and come up with innovative ideas.
These new designs are featured in fashion shows across the globe, for top fashion
experts to see and review, and hence maintain the

exclusiveness of denim produced by Arvind Mills.

Top designers like Calvin Klien, Chanel etc. and brands like Zara, Abercrombie and Fitch,
Mango, Gap and many others, select these

designs and order them to be produced in mass.

The designs can be created by changing one of the following characteristics of the
fabric:

Page 66
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Weave of the fabric:

o (denim is usually 3
x 1 twill)- variations
are made in twill
weave or by changing
the nature of the
weave all together.
Like 2X1 or other
variations

The dying procedure’s

output:

(usually done with

indigo and sulphur
dyes) – the dying can
give colour effects to
the fabric. Different
compositions of dyes
are used and
innovations and
creativity in the use of
colors, produces more
number of designs.
Sometimes the weft
and the warp are of
different dyes,
creating an iridescent
effect. Though
traditionally blue or
black, many other
colours of denims are
created

Fiber Used:

Authentic denim uses

cotton fiber, but for
design variations
cotton blends are
used. Light weight
yarns like polyester
are used to
manufacture denim
used in garments like
jeggings and lighter
weight denim
requirements. Most
popular addition to
denim fabric is Lycra
for streatchability as
that is a prominent
feature of jeans. Most
recent type of denim
added to the denim
family of Arvind is
Excel denim(world’s
softest denim)*.
Page 67
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

 Finishes Applied:

Fabrics can be re-

innovated in terms of
the type of finish
applied, Now-a-days,
there are a variety of
finishes that can be
applied to any fabric
and same goes for
denim. Usually
mercerization is a
process not done for
denims, as it does not
require very soft and
smooth fibers, but
inclusion of finished
like mercerization or
resin finish, can
completely change the
look and feel of the
fabric. Other aesthetic
finishes, like partial
napping or
emerization, anti-
crease

finish, permanent
creases by resin finish
can be given.
*The fabric, ‘Excel
Denims’, would be
manufactured in Arvind
Group’s production
facility in Ahmedabad,
which has a capacity of
120 million metres of
fabric per annum. While
Birla Cellulose would be
involved in the R&D to
create the fibre made of
super refined wood
pulp, Arvind would be
manufacturing the
fabric and selling them
both in the domestic
and international
markets.
Page 68
 Denim Incubation Department | Design Lines

The following are a few lines of denim that have been developed and new

products are added to it every day:


Kato (Japanese denim line):

Kato brings in the authentic attributes of denim in collections, fabrics mostly made on
the shuttle loom and with selvedge.

ADL (Arvind Denim Lab):

The ADL line is specifically for the US brands. The s/s 2014 collection has special
attractions in the form of colour denims, indigos with colour fills andsummer lights in
excel along with the authentic core line

Euroline (European denim line):

The Euroline is specifically for the brand needs inEurope. The s/s 2014 collection has
an introduction of shades like pink, sky blue but in a grading of color.

Metro (Indian denim line):

The metro line is designed by Arvind’s in-house design team specifically for Indian
brands. The collection has the flavor of a true Indian denim. We have also recently
launched a collection in Excel called Excel Denim in collaboration with Birla Cellulose.
It will be the world’s softest denim.
Page 69
Denim Incubation Department

Innovation Pipeline Denims

Arvind’s Design department is always high on new developments in the denim

world and always has number of projects under the innovation pipeline which are
yet to be tested and finalized for the season breaks accordingly. Few of those
projects are-


SPIES

Ecru fabric with only warp dyed yarns which are chemically treated during
spinning.

NEO

Richer. Deeper denim shade for wash explorations.

KHADI

Premium line of denim. Hand spun, hand woven. Fantastic look, drape, fall. On the
principle of sustainability.

JACQUARD
Various shades of denims and fabric types brought in together for one fabric and
different look.

RING

LINEN

100% linen in 3x1 weave for better sheen, drape etc. Again a premium line

Page 70
Denim Incubation Department | Technical Team

The technical team of the development and new technology team aims at
developing the fabric as per customer requirements.

They have technicians and fabric experts who constantly work together and
collaborate with each of the processing units to get the desired

output of the fabric.

Then, they calculate/concur and document the exact procedures and processes to be
followed to create the fabric exactly matching customer

requirements.

Once the processes have been determined by the DNTG department, they are
delegated to the individual units for mass production.

The DID DEPARTMENT at Arvind mills has a database of more than 8000 fabrics,
that have been created for all kinds of uses. The designs

range from all kinds of usage of yarn, to differentiation based on any of the factors
mentioned above.
Customers and designers may choose out of this data base to order in bulk, The data
then goes to PPC department, that is production Planning

and Control and the mass production of fabrics start.

Collection development is done at least one year in advance and presented on a road
show/ramp show for the buyers to see and order.

These shows contain 30-35 pieces each o the type of fabric characteristic being
showcased.

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There are basically

two ways this whole
process works:

Collection
Development

Customer Development

Technical department
takes care of the re
production and du-pro
problems of the
ongoing batches also.

Consistency/Reproduc
ibility

Feed/Stock

Machines Used

Process Followed
All of the above
mentioned factors are
taken care by the DID
right from the
beginning of the
collection
development till the
marketing stage.
Page 72
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DID

Customer
Collection

Development

Development

Innovation and
Process Upgradation

Approval/Confirmmati
on from the CEO

Testing of Physical
Properties
Washing

Spinning (Yran slub

characteristics etc)

Dye Stuf (dye style,

shade etc)

Weaving (Constrction
and Selevedge)

Finishing (Process and

Sequence, OD,

printing/coating)

Inspection

QA for Testing-
Sampling

Comercialisation of
the fabric chart
prepared
Cost Upgradation-
Final Costing

Marketting

Page 73
QUALITY ASSURANCE AND STANDARDISATION

Arvind is committed at providing the best quality of fabric to the consumers for over
80 years now. The quality control is an integrated process that starts when the
customer gives the order, and the DNTG develops the samples accordingly, it is
checked for quality assurance measures and compliances with customer needs. At
later stages the fabric is inspected and testing of parameters of fabric is done.

Essentially there are 2 major parts of quality assurance:

Inspection department uses 13 Kitamura Machine to find such defects

in fabrics.

The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and 60

degrees.

Speed of fabric on inspection m/c

: 25m/min
Light

: 100 Lux

Inclination
0
: 57

Cost of inspection

: Rs. 0.65/mtr

Page 74
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Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the
fabric depends on the customer preferences.

There are two inspectors to keep continuous watch on fabric for finding the defects.
The 4-point grading system indicates that as per customer requirement defects are
allowable upto their levels. We have observed that in VF brand the 4-point
allowable are only 4 that is total 16 defects per 135-meter roll.

4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes:

Size of defect

Penalty Points

2 Points
3” or less 3.1” to 6 ” 6.1” to 9” More than 9”

3 Points
Holes or Openings(Largest Dimension)

4 Points

1” or less More than 1”

1 Point
2 Points
4 Points

No penalty points are recorded for minor defects.

Page 75
QUALITY ASSURANCE & STANDARDISATION | DEFECTS

Major Defects are classified as follows:-

Major woven fabric defects such as slubs, holes, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn
variation, end out, soiled yarn, and wrong yarn.

Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line,
barre, slub,hole, press off.

Major dyeing or printing defects are print out, dye spots, machine stop, color smear
or shading.
Fabric containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards is considered as

SECONDS .

At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production plan
for the entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The finishing
department gives the material transfer note to the inspection department where the
material is checked for the following defects:

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Spinning related Defects:

Warp Slub

Weft Slub

Thick end

Coarse/fine weft

Weft bar

Weaving preparatory related defects

Knot

Slack end

Ball formation

Size patches
Weaving related defects

Starting mark

Tight end

Weft float

Knot

Moiré

Repaired warp

Double end

Bowing and Skewing

Page 77
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Check for skewed,

bowed and biased
fabric. For this
purpose check the
bowing and s skewing
at every 10 meters.

The bowing and

skewing are calculated
as follows:

Bow: A bow is an
uneven deviation of a
weft from a line
drawn perpendicular
to

the selvedge of the

fabric.

A bow may have

different forms:
If the average Bowing
or Skewing for a roll is
more than 2-3%,
reject the roll.
Page 78
 TESTING

Physical
Testing:

The samples are

tested for/by:

Yarn evenness:
USTER TESTER 5

Statex CSP(cascade
strength tester) system:

Yarn count and

strength

Single yarn
tester

Instron 4465:

Tensile Test for

fabric

Elemendorf
Tearing Strength:

Tearing strength
check by
application of
9000g force

Chatillon
Stiffness Tester

Resistance to
bending

Paramount
humidity checker

For humidity
control

Stretch/elongati
on test

Weight of 1.35
kg applied on a
designated
swatch sample
for half an hour

Dimensional
Stability and
skew movement
test

Shrinkage test
Measure
shrinkage after
washing thrice +
conditioning

Ozone test
chamber by USA
inc.

Snarl indicator

Twist tester

Statex (14.4 tpi)

Page 79
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Chemical testing

Tests requested by preferred customers:

LEVI’s Test method

Ph

ISO-3071

Crocking

AATCC-8 SPOT TEST SI 1005

Water Repellency

ISO 105-E01

Acid

ISO 105-E02

Alkali
ISO 105-E04

POLO method

Ph

ISO-3071

Crocking
ISO 105*12

WATER repellency

ISO 105-E01

Acid

ISO 105-E02
Alkali

ISO 105-E04

Washing

C06-AIM
SPOT TEST

SI 1005

Page 80
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Chemical Tests
Conducted in the
lab:

Raw Material checking

like dyeing/finishing
auxhillaries

Basic chemical.

Percentage of purity of Hydros,

Caustic acid, peroxides etc

Purity performance of dyes like

indigo, vat sulphur

Auhilaries like wetting agents,

sizing, finishing etc

Stock Weight of indigo

(gpl)

Brandsbender
moisture tester (105
degree c. for 4 hrs)

o Weighing balance

Mettler Toledo

o Crockmeter

AATCC

o Formldehyde
content in dye/stock
bath o Thermo orion
pH meter

o Launder-O-meter o
ATLAS crockmeter

o Genesys 10
spectrophotometer o
Muffle furnace

o Cintex incubator

o EEC beaker dyeing

machine o USA
ozone test chamber

o Flamability tester
Page 81
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Shade testing:

The software used for

shade testing is EASY
MATCH.

HunterLab's
EasyMatch QC
software gives
unprecedented
flexibility to process,
display, analyze and
report color
measurement results.

Color measurement
and analysis software
reports absolute and
color difference data
in all widely used color
scales, for various
lighting and

observing conditions.
Pass/Fail functions
provide fast go/no-go
decisions.

Data can be reported

numerically in tabular
or spreadsheet form.

Data can also be

graphically displayed
as color difference
plots, trend plots and
spectral curves.

All results can be

viewed, stored,
printed or imported
into your database
programs.

The software uses a

spectrophotometer to
record observations,
and plots deviations
from avg and perfect
sample for each roll.

It also provides pass

and fail options for
rolls that deviate too
much from normal
value making it very
easy for the operator
to assure quality and

minimize shade
variation.

It also helps in shade

wise differentiation
and categorization of
rolls. So that the
consumer may be able
to easily distinguish
between lots of
various

shades

Page 82
 PACKAGING AND SHIPPING

* The final step is now to OK the batch/lot for shipping and send to the packaging
dept so as to put on the required details and ship the consignment.

The details that need to be present on the packaging are:

Shipment no.

Date

Sort no

F.M.C

Rolls of approximately 135m each is sealed by polythene.

Spec. of polythene cover: Plastic bags of 23 micron used

Code no
Meters

Flags/points

Opt no.

Page 83
 ACCREDITATIONS

ISO 9001:2000 by BVQI (India)

Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai-India, for
Manufacture and Supply of
Denim Fabrics.

The ISO 9000 family of

standards is related to quality
management systems and
designed to help organizations
ensure that they meet the
needs of customers and other
stakeholders [1] while meeting
statutory and regulatory
requirements related to the
product.

The ISO 9001:2000 version

sought to make a radical
change in thinking by actually
placing the concept of process
management front and center
("Process management" was
the monitoring and
optimisation of a company's
tasks and activities, instead of
just inspection of the final
product).

IS0 14000:

Provides environment
management standards to help
organisations minimize their
negative impact on the
environment

Environment Management
System (EMS) mandatory
Certification carried out by
third party

Focuses on process as in case

of ISO 9000

Page 84
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Oeko-Tex Standard
100 by Shirley
Technologies Ltd., UK,
for Black and Indigo
dyed denim fabrics,
black / indigo printed
denim fabric –including

stretch denims.

The Oeko-Tex®
Standard 100 is a
globally uniform
testing and
certification system
for textile raw
materials,
intermediate and end
products at all stages
of production.

The tests for harmful

substances comprise
substances which are
prohibited or
regulated by law,
chemicals which are
known to be harmful
to health, and
parameters which are
included as a
precautionary
measure to safeguard
health.

“Skal International
Standards for
Sustainable Textile
Production” by
Control Union
Certifications, The
Netherlands, for
Processing of organic

cotton.

“Global Organic Textile

Standards”, Control
Union Certifications,
The Netherlands, for
Processing of fibres
from certified organic
agriculture.

Levi’s strauss
Laboratory
Certification by Levi
Strauss & Co., Test
Methods and
conditions set forth,
Denim Laboratory,
The Arvind Mills Ltd.

ISO-17025 NABL –
National Accreditation
Board for
Laboratories, Delhi,
India, for Chemical &
Mechanical disciplines
of testing.

Page 85
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Premier Accreditation
Scheme by Marks &
Spencer, Test Methods
and conditions set
forth, Laboratory,
Shirting Division
Business, The Arvind
Mills

Ltd.

Liz Claiborne Int’l Ltd.,

Testing audit
performance,
Laboratory, Shirting

Business Division, The

Arvind Mills Ltd.

Labs are certified by

DUPONT (LYCRA).

.
Page 86
Project Report | Brief

Project Title

Arvind’s Involvement In Better Cotton Initiatives

Objective

Introduction to BCI

o Arvind’s Implementation of BCI Norms

Quality Analysis of BCI-Bunny Brahma & Bunny Brahma Cotton

Page 87
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT


Methodology

Secondary research

Understanding of
BCI and its Norms.

Primary Research

Data Collection

Quality Analysis of
BCI bunny Brahma
Cotton

Quality Analysis of
Bunny Brahma
Cotton

Analysis of the
differences
between BCI-Bunny
Brahma & Bunny
Brahma Cotton
o Conclusion
Page 88

Better Cotton
Initiative
|
Introduction
INTRODUCTION
The Better Cotton
Initiative (BCI) is
primarily focusing on
the following :

To demonstrate the
inherent benefits of
BC production,
particularly the
financial profitability
for farmers.

To reduce the impact

of water and pesticide
use on human and
environmental health.

To improve soil health

and biodiversity.

To promote Decent
Work for farming
communities and
cotton farm workers.

To facilitate global
knowledge exchange
on more sustainable
cotton production.
To increase the
traceability along the
cotton supply chain.
Page 89
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

pro
duc
ers
hav
KEY e
FEATURES to
add
res
Producers s
need to Pro
meet the gre
Minimum ss
Production Req
Criteria uir
which are em
the initial ent
core s.
requiremen
ts, to
receive a BCI
license to aim
produce BC. s to
tra
nsf
Minimum or
Production m
Criteria cott
(MPC) are on
the starting pro
point in a duc
cycle of tio
continuous n
improveme wo
nt required rld
by BCI. wid
Once MPC e
are met, by
developing nt
BC as a pro
sustainable gra
mainstream ms,
commodity. all
There is not des
BC label on ign
final ed
products. aro
und
the
A major BC
partner sta
speeding up nda
the rd.
production Thi
of BC is the s
BC Fast allo
Track ws
Program. BCI
Leading BCI and
brands as its
well as a par
number of tne
public rs
sector to
funders rea
contribute ch
to the BC mo
Fast Track re
program, regi
which ons
channels ,
funds trai
directly to n
farmer mo
training and re
improveme far
mers and Bett
produce er
Cott
more
on
cotton. was
pro
duc
BCI ed
membershi on
p focuses 435
,00
on enabling
0
positive hect
change in ares
the field, by
supporting 90,
supply 000
far
creation,
mer
building s in
public 201
support and 1-
demonstrati 12.
ng market
place
BCI
demand for
me
BC as a mbe
mainstream rs
commodity. repr
ese
nts
over
5%
of
the
FACTS & worl
FIGURES d’s
tota
l
490,000 con
Metric Tons sum
of ptio
n.
246 members
by the end of
2012.
Page 90
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

The Better Cotton

System

The Production
Principles and Criteria
cannot operate in
isolation, and form
part of the BC System.
This BC System is
made up of the
following inter-
dependent
components, each as
important as the other
in making the system
effectively deliver its
objectives:

Production Principles
and Criteria to
provide a global
definition of BC

Farmer Support to
promote enabling
mechanisms at a local
and global level,
working with
experienced
implementing
partners, and
stimulating public-
private partnership
funds to implement
these mechanisms

Farm Assessment to
encourage farmers to
continuously improve,
through measuring
results and seasonal
learning cycles

Supply Chain
connecting supply
with demand through
an identifiable bale of
100% BC lint

Monitoring,
Evaluation and
Learning mechanisms
to measure progress
and change and to
ensure the BC System
has the intended
impacts on its direct
beneficiaries
Tools, guidelines and
learning forums to
facilitate the exchange
of best practices and
knowledge to
encourage the scaling
up of collective action

Page 91
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PRODUCTION
PRINCIPLES

BC is produced by
farmers who minimize
the harmful impact of
crop protection
practices

BC is produced by
farmers who use
water efficiently and
care for the
availability of water

BC is produced by
farmers who care for
the health of the soil

BC is produced by farmers who

conserve natural habitats

BC is produced by
farmers who care for
and preserve the
quality of the fiber
BC is produced by
farmers who promote
decent work

CRITERIA FOR
ASSESSMENT

Pass and fail:

Producer need to
respect Better Cotton
Minimum Production
Criteria in order to get
a license to produce
BC. The BC system
aims at continuous
improvement. It is not
organized as a simple
pass or fail system but
goes beyond by
integrating elements
of capacity building,
data management,
and progress.

What happens if non-

conformity is found?

At least 80% of the

farmers in Learning
Group must comply
with all relevant BC
criteria in order for
the group to get a
license to produce BC.
Where a systematic
breach of a Minimum
Production Criteria is
observed, the whole
Producer Unit may be
disqualified.

Page 92
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Does the initiative

offer incentives for
continuous
improvement?

After meeting the

Minimum Production
Criteria, BC farmers
have to meet
‘Progress
Requirements’. These
progress requirements
are presented in the

Standards Map
database as ‘Medium-
term requirements’.

AUDIT INFORMATION

1st, 2nd, 3rd party

certification:

The BC assurance
system is a
combination of self-
assessment, second
party credibility
checks and third party
verification.

Frequency of audits:

Yearly

Validity of audit
certificate:

One year.

PRODUCTS
TRACEABLITY ALONG
THE SUPPLY CHAIN

One of the key

elements of the
supply chain for BC is
the creation of 100%
BC

bales, meaning that

BC is segregated from
farm to gin.

Chain of Custody
standard
BCI will create a 100%
BC bale, and connect
the supply of BC to
demand, putting in
place a supply chain
system that facilitates
the procurement of
BC.

USE OF LOGO ON THE

FINAL PRODUCT?

No

Page 93
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SUPPORT

To help farmers adopt

practices consistent
with the BCI
Production Principles,
BCI coordinates a
program of farmer
support activities
delivered through
experienced
Implementing
Partners.

Farmers support
covers knowledge
sharing and skills
development and
effective producer
organization For
Implementing
Partners, three of the
BC System
components focus on
support. BCI provides
a Step by Step Guide
to Implementation for
both smallholders and
large farms and
annual workshops
that help companies
understand and
implement the BCI
program. Applications
for financial grants can
be submitted twice a
year through an online
form. The funding
contribution matches
up to a maximum of
50% of the total
project cost. Members
receive supply chain
support from
dedicated supply
chain coordinators, as
well as Secretariat and
Council support
through Caucus calls,
BCI hosted events and
webinars.

COSTS

Membership fee: The

membership fee is
based on member
category, size and
either annual lint
cotton consumption,
annual
turnover/income, or
whether the
organization is based
in an OECD Country or
a non-OECD country.

Certification costs:
Third party verification
costs are born by large
farms or by BCI in the
case of smallholders.

Page 94
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THE BCI STANDARD

SYSTEM IS
APPLICABLE TO
PRODUCERS IN THE
FOLLOWING
COUNTRIES AND
REGIONS:

ASIA China, India,

Pakistan, Tajikistan

AFRICA Benin, Burkina

Faso, Cameroon, Mali,
Senegal, Togo

SOUTH AMERICA
Brazil
Page 95
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Areas Covered by
BCI standard
system:

Immediate
Requirement:

The BCI “Minimum

Production Criteria”
form the initial core
requirements for
farmers to grow
“Better Cotton”. These
criteria are presented
in the Standards Map
database as
“Immediate
requirements”.

Medium-term
requirement:

The BCI “Progress

Requirements” form an
additional set of
requirements that
farmers, after meeting
the “Minimum
Production Criteria”
must complete with a
minimum number of
additional benchmarks
within the following 3
growing seasons, while
of course maintaining
compliance to the

“Minimum Production
Criteria”. These
progress requirements
are presented in the
Standards Map
database as “Medium-
term requirements”.
Page 96
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Page 97
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OVERVIEW OF REQUIREMENTS:
EXPLANATION:

Critical:

The BCI ‘Minimum Production Criteria’ form the initial core requirements for
farmers to grow ‘Better Cotton’. These criteria are presented in the Standards
Map database as ‘critical requirements’.
Page 98
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Medium term:

After meeting the

Minimum Production
Criteria, Better Cotton
farmers have to meet
‘Progress
Requirements’. These
progress requirements
are presented in the
Standards Map
database as ‘Medium-
term requirements’.
Page 99
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Page 100
 BCI at Arvind Limited | Introduction

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to develop
models that make production of its most valued and most extensively used raw
material more sustainable. Which is why, Arvind Agribusiness has initiated
contract farming projects in Akola district of Maharashtra State & Nizar Taluka in
Tapi district of Gujarat State.

Aims of the Initiative

Improve the farmer's productivity and income

Develop environmentally sustainable business models

Enhance the region's biodiversity

Promote decent work ethics

Develop a lasting social infrastructure & support system

Page 101
BCI at Arvind Limited | Farm Projects

Detai
ls of
Proje
ct

Akola

Nizar

(Maha
rashtr
a)
(Gujarat)
 Total

Project Since

2010

2011
No. of Villages

131

58

189
Total area covered (Ha)

15,000

10,400

25,400
No. of farmer’s benefitted

3,000

2,600

5,600
No. of farm family members

15,000

13,000

28,000
benefitted
Employment generated (Farm workers)

45,000

40,000

85,000
Capacity (Bales of 165kgs)

35,000

40,000

75,000
Cotton Type

Bunny/Brahma

Sankar-6(SUP)
Page 102
 BCI at Arvind Limited | Contract Farming

From the farm to the fashion industry, Arvind's approach to contract farming is extensive and

thorough.

Arvind plays a key role in every single process involved in this initiative.

Infrastructure and capacity building:

This includes – research, collaborations with national & international organizations, research institutions,
etc. strong HR policies, capacity building for extension activities.

Building the right team:

A team of 105 field experts including agronomists, soil scientists, pest and disease specialist and MSW (for
carrying out decent work activities) are put in place.

Training:

Highly qualified agronomists train and educate farmers about crop, nutrient, pest and disease
management, decent work ethics (no child labor, discrimination, gender issues, etc.) and business
models to improve productivity. Guidance material on better management practices based on Better
Cotton Production criteria is developed.

Technology and skill development:

Participatory Technology Development in collaboration with project farmers helps in finding location-
specific solutions.

Monitoring:
Regular farm visits are made. Detailed farm records, soil tests, and constant monitoring ensure a
healthy crop. Validation work on better management practices is carried out.

Elimination:

Middle men are eliminated. Farmers are also introduced to dependable farm input suppliers.

Assured buy back:

Arvind buys the crop at market prices and guarantees Minimum Support Price. A 'Farm Gate' payment
policy ensures that payments are made within seven working days.

Page 103
 BCI at Arvind Limited | Benefits

Managing the supply chain:

Arvind Agribusiness maintains a fully tracebale supply-chain and an extensive management

information system. It is involved in establishing an effective producer organization, the
segregation of better cotton, chain of custody procedures and engagement with ginners and other
organizations.

● ●

A HOLISTIC APPROACH

TO CONTRACT

FARMING WHERE THE

ECONOMIC, SOCIAL

AND

ENVIRONMENTAL

BENEFITS NOT ONLY

CO-EXIST BUT ALSO

AUGMENT EACH

OTHER.

● ● ●

Page 104
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Economic benefits

Reduced cost of
production: The cost
of production is
reduced through the
collective purchase of
farm inputs and
better, economical
deals from

suppliers.

Better profitability:
The need for middle
men has been
eliminated as Arvind
ensures that the
produce is bought at
the farmer's door step.

Better access to
affordable finance:
Dependence on local
moneylenders has
also been reduced as
farmers are
encouraged to deal
with reliable

financial institutions.

Better nutrient, pest

and disease
management: Better
management practices
ensure reduced use of
inputs (like synthetic
pesticides & fertilizers

), untimely reducing
the risk taken in
synthetic pesticides
handling and
application.

Knowledge sharing
and skill
development:
Farmers receive
practical knowledge
on production
principles that can
decrease the cost of

production and
increase profitability.
Quality of fibre: From
soil preparation to
harvesting and
segregating better
quality cotton at the
farm gate, our
agronomist are
involved in every

process to ensure
better quality cotton.

Page 105
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Environmental
benefits

Water efficiency: The

learning forums
provide know how on
using water efficiently
through micro
irrigation.

Soil health: Reduced

use of pesticides,
micro – irrigation and
regular soil tests
ensure better soil
health.

Habitat conservation:
The initiative helps to
conserve their natural
habitat by minimizing
the harmful effects of
crop protection by
reducing use of

pesticides.

Social benefits

Decent work ethics:

The initiative gives
men, women and
backward classes
equal employment
and income
opportunities (equal
and approved wages).

Abolishing social evils:

Social and cultural
programmes are
regularly organized in
order to create
awareness about child
labour and gender
discrimination.
Presently, both the
projects put together
employs 85000 farm
workers both men and
women.

Building a healthy
community:
Internationally
recognized health and
safety standards are
followed. The initiative
also works towards
building a strong

social structure based

on mutual
cooperation and
understanding.

Page 106
 BCI at Arvind Limited | Quality Assessment

Quality Parameters

Akola (Maharashtra)

Nizar (Gujarat)
Length (Staple in mm)

29.0 +

29.0 +

Strength (Grams per tex)

29.0 +

29.0 +

Micronaire

3.5 - 4.3

3.7 - 4.4

Grade

Strict Middling

Strict Middling

UBI Codes
Upon Lifting

Upon Lifting

Advantage Arvind

5% HVI Results

5% HVI Results
Page 107
 BCI at Arvind Limited | Results & Analysis

Comparison of BCI-BB and BB Cotton

90

80
70

60
50

40
30

20
10

UHM

STR

MIC

UI

SFI

Elg

(+b)

Rd

Inv%

Trash

M%
Nep

%
BB Cotton

4.12

5.28

8.62

81.6

7.9

6.7

8.1

76.6

1.94

23.7

9.43

31.48

BCI-BB Cotton

1.31

1.77

3.37

82.8

6.7

78.8

2.09

12.58

7.31

19.86

UHML
Upper half Mean Length

(mm)

(CV%)

Str

Strength

(g/tex)

(CV%)

MIC

Micronaire

(mg/inch)

(CV%)

UI

Uniformity Index

(Avg.)

SFI

Short Fiber Index

(Avg.)

Elg

Elongation
(Avg.)

+b

Yellowness

(Avg.)

Rd

Reflectivity

(Avg.)

Lint%

Lint Percentage

(Avg.)

Inv%

Invisible Trash Percentage

(Avg.)

Trash%

Trash Percentage
(CV%)

M%

Moisture Percentage

(CV%)

Nep

Neps Length

(CV%)

Page 108
 BCI at Arvind Limited | Conclusion

As the leader of Indian textile industry, Arvind has taken it upon itself to develop
models that make production of its most valued and most extensively used raw
material i.e. Cotton more sustainable.

Application of BCI Norms by Arvind has not only uplifted the lifestyle of the
workers under the BCI project but has also enhanced the overall quality level of
Cotton yarns since its quality is based on the uniformity level of Cotton fibers.

The BCI Cotton has a much lower Coefficient of Variance despite being
manufactured in different areas than the normally procured cotton from the same
areas.

The uniformity index of BCI-BB is 88.8 as compared to the uniformity index of BB

i.e. 81.6 which is significantly lower than the BCI-Cotton and affects its quality
greatly.
Page 109
REFERENCE

WEB-REFERENCES

www.arvindmills.com

http://arvind-agri.com/bci.php

http://www.bettercotton.org/

www.garmento.org

www.denimology.com

www.cottoninc.com

BOOKS
Fabric science –Glock and Kunj

Fabric Finishing – J T Marsh

Textile Science - B P Corbman

Textile Science – Tortora

Page 110