Work Measurement

and Time Study

Presented by:
Tayla Training
The 2 day Standard Setting Workshop is aimed at
employees in the clothing and textile value chain
involved in the production process that establish and
monitor standards. Accurate standard setting will
provide Information for costing and other decision
making processes, as well as decisions that influence
product costs. This workshop will be practical and
will include classwork examples.

Tayla Training © 1
Table of Contents
No Title Pg.
INTRODUCTION 3
1 METHOD STUDY 4
PROCESS / MOTION ECONOMY 4
WORKPLACE LAYOUT 5
EQUIPMENT DESIGN 5
2 TIME STUDY (WORK MEASUREMENT) 6
DEFINITION OF WORK MEASUREMENT 6
OVERVIEW OF PREDETERMINED MOTION TIME SYSTEMS 6
THE STOPWATCH TIME STUDY 10
CENTIMINUTES 10
PERFORMANCE RATING 12
TIME STUDY EQUIPMENT 14
ALLOWANCES 21
THE WORK CUCLE AND ELEMENTS 24
BASIC WORK STUDY PROCEDURE 25
CALCULATIONG THE STANDARD MINUTE VALUE 30
3 OTHER TECHNIQUES 33
ACTIVITY SAMPLING 33
PRODUCTION STUDIES 33
REFERANCE / ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 34

Tayla Training © 2
Introduction
One of the main objectives of Work Study is to increase labour productivity. This is achieved through
applying better work methods and setting standard times for jobs. Workers are encouraged to work
smarter (more efficiently) rather than harder.

There are thus 2 areas of study namely the best way to do the job (method study) and the time it
should take to do the job (work measurement). The purpose of this module is to assist delegates to
set accurate time standards. A basic understanding of method study is necessary before
commencing.

Once we know the correct time for doing a job, and we have established a good way of doing it, we
can use this information for decision making related to:

COSTING PRE AND POST Incorrect garment costing has a huge impact on profit. If the
PRODUCTION garment is over costed, we won’t be able to sell any
garments, if it is under costed we may sell plenty, but lose
money on every garment. Both of the above would be hugely
detrimental to the company
BALANCING / PLANNING LINES Once we know how long it takes to do each job, we can work
out how many people we need to balance the lines to reach
target.
SETTING HOURLY TARGET / When we know how long it takes to do a job we can
MEASURING PERFORMANCE determine an hourly target for each Operator.
IMPLEMENTING INCENTIVE Bonus calculations are usually based on production over and
SCHEMES & UNDERTAKING above the set target / standard time
BONUS CALULATIONS
CAPACITY CHECKING Measuring an Operator’s ability to achieve the standard time
METHOD VERIFICATION To compare a range of methods in order to establish the
most cost effective one
CAPPEX JUSTIFICATIONS Proving the worth of capital investment on machinery,
equipment and tools

NOTES:

Tayla Training © 3
1. Method Study (best way to do the job)
Method study is the practise of ensuring that the best methods are used in production. It aims to
identify easier and more effective work methods to reduce work content using:

• Improved processes / motion economy

• Improved factory and workplace layout
• Improved design of plant and equipment

This will lead to:

• Better physical working conditions

• Improved design or specifications
• Improved use of resources, capital, material, labour and equipment
• Improved safety

Process / Motion Economy

Motion economy is the investigation of the movements involved in performing a particular operation.
By analysing these motions non-productive motions should be removed and replaced with motions
which are more efficient and less fatiguing. It involves the use of the human body to produce results
with the least physical and mental effort. The list below starts with the least tiring and most
economical movements ending with the most tiring and least economical.

• Finger movements
• Finger and wrist movements
• Finger, wrist and forearm movements
• Finger, wrist, forearm and upper arm movements
• Finger, wrist, forearm and upper arm and trunk movements

In order to be efficient operations should consider using:

• Minimum movement
• Simultaneous movement
• Symmetrical movement
• Natural movement
• Rhythmical movement
• Habitual movement
• Continuous movement

Tayla Training © 4
Workplace Layout

• There should be a fixed place for everything

• Tools and materials must be arranged in a logical sequence
• Gravity must be used wherever possible
• Tools and equipment should be placed within natural working area
• Seating should promote good posture
• Lighting and contrast must reduce eye fatigue
• Workplace must be clean, well ventilated and a comfortable temp
• Noise and vibration should be restricted

Equipment Design

• Use jigs to hold equipment where possible

• Tool handles must be comfortable and ensure natural grip
• Controls must be placed to ensure economical movement and use of strength

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-fBDsF3ktc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af3NnkDntb0

NOTES:

Tayla Training © 5
2. Time Study (Work Measurement)
Definition of Work Measurement
“The application of techniques designed to establish the standard time for a qualified worker to carry
out a specified job at a defined level of performance at an agreed level of quality.”

‘Standard time’ is the average time taken for one cycle of an operation that we would measure over
a typical day if we had:

• A skilled Operator
• The Operators’ best efforts
• Sufficient work
• The correct workplace and the machinery for which the standard time was specified
• Output at the correct level of quality.

Standard Allowed Minute’s (SAM) is a term used widely in the garment manufacturing industry to
describe the time allocated to a particular operation / how long it should take to get a job, or a task
done. Another commonly used term is Standard Minute Value (SMV).

A Time Study or redetermined motion time system (PMTS) is used to determine Standard Times for
different operations. Studies can be done by Work Study officers, Supervisors or Managers. Time
studies can also be used.

Overview of Predetermined Motion Time Systems

Companies may undertake their own stop watch based Time studies or make use of systems that
have a library of standard times which can be utilised to synthesize times for different operations
and ultimately the whole garment or product. SAM calculation software uses Methods Time
Measurement (MTM) systems to establish a Predetermined Motion Time System (PMTS)
database.

These systems are purchased by the company and Work Study officers need to have specialised
training in order to use them. Some examples of these systems are:

• General Sewing Data (GSD)

• Sew Easy® Quick Garment Sewing Data
• Stamp
• MODSEW (Standard Data Apparel Engineering System)
• Standard Sewing Data (SSD)

Tayla Training © 6
Calculating Garment SAM Using Synthetic Data

Predetermined Time Standard (PTS) are used to establish the Standard Time of a garment or other
sewn products.

Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.
Step 2: Study the motions of that operation - Note all movements used by the Operator in doing one
complete cycle of work. Motions include pick up parts one hand or two hands, align parts on the
table or under the machine foot, realign plies, etc.
Step 3: List down all motion sequentially. Refer to the synthetic data for values.
Step 4: Calculate SAM by adding allowances (discussed later) to the basic time.

NOTES:

Tayla Training © 7
Tayla Training © 8
Tayla Training © 9
The Stopwatch Time Study
Many factories do not have the capital or resources necessary to use PMTS systems. In these
circumstances a stopwatch study can be used to set standard times.

Manual time studies can be done with the use of a stop watch, either on the spot or by analysing a
video of the operation. Developing standard times for each operation manually is time consuming.
After a number of repetitions, the collected times are averaged, and a basic time is calculated.
Performance rating of the individual Operator needs to be taken into consideration – is the Operator
working faster than average, slower than average etc. Allowances will also need to be added onto
the basic time. These will be discussed later in the programme.

https://youtu.be/O77elB7-CYE

Centiminutes
Since the great majority of cycle times in the Clothing Industry are less than one minute, the most
suitable type of stopwatch is the “decimal minute” variety, where the main hand completes one
revolution in one minute, and the circumference is divided into one hundredths of a minute, rather
than seconds.

A significant amount of time is saved by recording the time in decimal minutes as opposed to “normal”
seconds (i.e. 60 seconds = 1 minute). Centiminutes, or decimal minutes, are easier to use than seconds
for the purpose of calculations as this eliminates the need to seconds into decimal minutes at a later
stage for use on a calculator. (100 centiminutes = 60 seconds = 1 minute). A calculator works in
decimals (1.50 mins) and not fractions (1½ mins), or conventional minutes and seconds (1 minute 30
seconds).

Tayla Training © 10
Usually decimal stop watches are used to calculate times.

A standard time of 0.25 would mean 0.25 of a decimal minute (25 out of 100 parts of a decimal
minute) or could also be expressed as 25 centiminutes. THIS IS NOT EQUAL TO 25 SECONDS!!!!

A time that is expressed in decimal minutes cannot be checked on a normal watch that shows
seconds. If a person does not have access to a stopwatch that works on decimal minutes then it may
be necessary to convert the time into seconds. It is also important to note that digital stopwatches
found on a watch or phone are usually not decimal.

CONVERTING CENTIMINUTES /DECIMAL MINUTES/ SECONDS

/60 x100

Seconds Decimal minutes Centiminutes

x60 /100

To convert from seconds into decimal minutes:

Divide the seconds value by 60, which will convert it to a minute value, and express to 2 decimal
places. Multiply this answer by 100 to obtain centiminutes.
162 seconds = 162 / 60 = 2.70 mins
2.70 mins = 2.70 x 100 = 270 cmins

To convert from decimal minutes into seconds:

Divide the decimal or centiminutes by 100, to extract the complete minutes. Multiply the remainder
by 60, to obtain the seconds.
108 centiminutes = 108 / 100 = 1.08mins or 1 minute and 8 centiminutes.
8 centiminutes = 60 x .08 = 5 seconds
Therefore 108 centiminutes = 65 seconds or 1 minute 5 seconds.

Tayla Training © 11
Performance Rating:
Performance rating is a subjective comparison of any condition or activity to a benchmark, based
upon our experience. While the mechanics of time study record the time a task did take, applying a
rating will determine the time a task should take.

Performance
(Rating) 50 75 100 120

Time Taken 12 min 8 min 6 min 5 min

Basic Time 12 x 50 = 6 min 8 x 75 = 6 min 6 x 100 = 6 min 5 x 120 = 6 min

100 100 100 100

100% Performance / Normal Performance

The concept of 100% performance is a critical element of time study and performance measures.
Normal performance is the rate of output which qualified workers will achieve without over-exertion
over the working shift provided they know and adhere to the specified method and they are
motivated to apply themselves to the work. This performance is denoted as 100% on standard rating
and performance scales.

A slower performance rate, which will produce fewer pieces per hour, is recorded as a percentage
below 100%. A faster performance rate that produces more pieces per hour is recorded as greater
than 100%.

Characteristic of 100% Performance or Normal Operator

• Fluid motions without hesitation

• No false starts or duplications
• Consistent, coordinated, effective rhythm
• No wasted actions or work
• Attention centred on the task

Tayla Training © 12
Rating Accuracy

To improve accuracy in rating an Operator, observer must -

• Have knowledge of the operation and the specified method or standard operating procedures
for that task.
• Concentrate on Operator motions
• Be alert to fumbles, hesitations, and other lost motions- these are seldom or absent in 100%
performance.
• Eliminate or ignore interruption or events, not within the Operator’s control.
• Avoid a corrupting bias when observing fast and slow Operators in succession
• Be aware that increasing the number of cycles observed increases accuracy

https://youtu.be/GyUB-JPj9QY

NOTES:

Tayla Training © 13
Timestudy Equipment

The Stopwatch

The measurement of the time is one of the most important factors in Time Study, and this
measurement must, of course, be extremely accurate. The timing device most frequently used is the
stopwatch, of which there are several types. Time Study depends upon observing the operation, in
order to spot the breakpoint and note the time taken.

Until the invention of the electronic stopwatch the most common stopwatch was the mechanical
stopwatch with the numbers noted on the dial and moving hands. This was either the flyback or split
needle variety.

The Mechanical Watch (Fly-Back / Split Needle Watch)

This was until recently the most common stopwatch used. These watches were normally of the
decimal variety with two dials, the largest dial marked in hundredths of a minute and the smaller,
inner dial marked in whole minutes, usually up to thirty minutes. When the large hand has made one
complete revolution of the large dial on the watch, the smaller centre dial records one whole decimal
minute.

Fly-back timing is defined as: "A method in which the hands of a stop watch are returned to zero at
the end of each element (or group of elements) and are allowed to start immediately. This watch can
be used by itself for continuous studies, by setting the needle running and operating the fly-back
movement at the end of each cycle. The difficulty is that the needle's position on the dial has to be
followed very closely, by eye, in order to judge its precise reading at the moment the fly-back is
operated. These watches require rather more skill than other types, but they often represent the
most economical method of undertaking studies. This watch has two controls, a button at the top
which makes the needle fly back to zero from wherever it may be on the dial, and either a slide bar or
a button at the side which sets the needle running.

Using Fly Back Technique

• The watch should be fully wound before starting to time. This is usually done with the top knob
or ‘stem’. This knob also serves to stop the hands and return them to zero when pressed.
• Ensure the hands of the stop watch are stationary and at zero before the study starts.
• Use the slide or second knob on the top left rim of the watch to stop or start the watch. This puts
the hands in motion. (NB - Watches should never be put away in the stopped state, since this
would gradually weaken the main spring)
• Record the starting time of the study on your sheet and wait for the beginning of an element (or
work cycle).
• As the ‘breakpoint’ for the element is reached, and while the hands of the watch are in motion,
the position of the hands needs to be read. At the same instant, the crown of the watch needs to
be depressed, so as to zero and reset the hands. This causes the hands to return to zero and begin
timing the next element.
• Alternatively, the watch can be started at the beginning of the element or cycle and stopped at
the end.

Tayla Training © 14
In the cumulative or continuous timing system, the stop watch is not zeroed at the end of each
element but allowed to continue to run after the time has been noted. This method results in
cumulative totals in the elapsed time column and elapsed time for each element is obtained thereafter
by subtraction. The cumulative timing method also makes possible the use of an accurate wrist or
pocket watch to record observed times.

The Split-Needle / Split Hand Watch

https://www.google.co.za/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved
=0ahUKEwihr4jmnPnbAhUEAcAKHWkyClgQuAIIOzAG&url=https%3A%2F%2F2.zoppoz.workers.dev%3A443%2Fhttps%2Fwww.youtube.com%
2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dhl2Qq9pm-kw&usg=AOvVaw1SJJmtpqqtzmJnad_8IjpE

This is a more expensive type of watch resembling the flyback type, but they did make taking a time
study relatively simple. There are slightly different versions, but they all have a secondary needle
which travels around with the main needle. Operating the watch makes the main needle fly back to
zero and start off on the next cycle, but at the same time makes the secondary needle stationary.

After the second hand has been read, a side knob on the top left edge of the watch is pressed and this
causes the stopped hand to fly back to join the other which had been moving round in the usual way.
The small minute hand flies back as before when the top knob is pressed and must be read before the
breakdown.

Such a watch is easier to use than a flyback, particularly for short cycles, since the observer has no
need to look at the watch at the exact moment of the breakpoint.

Tayla Training © 15
Electronic Stopwatches

The electronic stopwatch does not show the clock face only a numerical reflection of time in numbers.

One of the main advantages of using an electronic stop watch is that it allows flyback timing to be
performed without any loss of accuracy. Flyback refers to the return of the measurement to 0 at the
end of a cycle. With a mechanical watch the time taken for the hand to return to zero is “lost” time.
This can be significant and can jeopardize the accuracy of a time study. With an electronic watch the
timing device is running continually and it is only the display that is updated as the “flyback” button is
pressed to reset the display to zero. At the end of the time study with most watches is it possible to
read off the total elapsed time.

Electronic watches can often be used in a number of calibration modes – they can be set to record in
fractions of seconds, minutes or hours.

More recently manufacturers have improved on the design of these stopwatches and have come up
with digital decimal minute stopwatches that are capable of performing multiple functions while at
the same time guaranteeing a higher degree of accuracy in time study as no time is lost when the fly-
back or snap reading method is used.

Digital watches are capable of performing up to 9 split or lap times that can be stored in the watch’s
memory and recalled during the study without interrupting the timing process. This eliminates the
possibility of errors in recording elemental times.

The read out is numerical and usually displays 3 decimal points of a minute. The face of the device
displays 3 rows of time during the study.

1. The bottom most row displays the total time as the study is being carried out.
2. The middle row displays the split or lap time
3. The uppermost row accumulates the total of all split or lap time and stores each time against a
number between 1 and 9 so that these can be recalled if required.

Tayla Training © 16
Using the stopwatch

• During the time study the watch is started when the Operator’s hand reaches to the 1st garment
part of the 1st cycle.
• The split button is pressed at every “breakpoint” in the study. The split time is displayed in the
middle row. The time study officer views and records this time value on the time study sheet in
the respective place.
• The split button is pressed when the Operator’s hand reaches for the 1st garment part on every
consecutive cycle and at every breakpoint on that cycle.
• The above procedure continues until 10 – 15 cycles have been timed.
• It is not necessary to stop or reset the watch until the entire study is completed.

Timing Terminology

Start-stop:
This is good method for beginners. The watch is started at the beginning of a cycle or element and
stopped at the end. This is slow and only permits the timing of part of the workflow. On the other
hand it makes it easy to judge the breakpoint and to read the watch at leisure.

Flyback:
As discussed previously this is the method which was most common in the industry. For short cycles
which are common in clothing manufacture, it requires a good deal of skill and can be very tiring.
Some points of detail may be missed and rating may not be given sufficient attention. If the observer
misses a time it is essential that the space is filled with a dash and that the watch is again zeroed at
the next breakpoint.

Cumulative (Averaging):
This is useful for the recording of a number of cycles by a non-practitioner. The watch runs
continuously, the time shown being recorded without returning the hands to zero. It is necessary to
perform a series of subtraction / averaging operations in order to establish the time for each cycle or
element.

NOTES:

Tayla Training © 17
Time Study Observation Sheet:

Tayla Training © 18
 Time Study Observation Sheet
Operation: Join side seam (skirt) Date: 20/09/2015
Operator: Bongi Observer: Princess
Start Time: End Time:
Machine Safety Machine Allowance 9%
Personal and Fatigue Allowance 12%

Element Cycles Summary

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Tot AVG RAT B/T
1 Pick up front .05 .05 .06 .06 .05 .05 .06 .07 .07 .06 .90
and back
panels
2 Align bottom .04 .05 .04 .05 .04 .05 .06 .05 .04 .04 .80
hemline, right
sides
together.
3 Place under .03 .02 .02 .03 .03 .04 .03 .03 .03 .02 1.2
needle.

4 Sew 30cm .08 .09 .09 .10 .08 .09 .08 .08 .09 .09 .85

5 Realign .04 .02 .02 .02 .03 .04 .03 .03 .03 .02 .90
panels

6 Sew 30cm .10 .09 .09 .10 .08 .10 .08 .08 .09 .09 .85

7 Trim threads .04 .05 .03 .05 .04 .05 .03 .05 .04 .04 .95

8 Place skirt .03 .03 .02 .03 .05 .04 .03 .03 .03 .02 .95
down.
TOTAL BASIC TIME

ALLOWANCES

STANDARD TIME

Observation sheet adapted from:

http://courses.washington.edu/ie337/Motion%20and%20Time%20Study.pdf

Tayla Training © 19
The Study Board

The Study Board is a clipboard designed to hold a stopwatch. When making a time study it is important
to make sure that you have sharp pencils available since it can be very disruptive if your pencil breaks
in the middle of a study!

The study board is simply a flat clipboard, usually made of plywood or of suitable plastic which is
needed for holding the time study forms. It should be rigid and larger than the largest form likely to
be used. It may have a fitting to hold the watch, so that the hands of the Work Study person are left
relatively free and the watch is in a position to be read easily. For right-handed people the watch is
normally placed at the top of the board on the right-hand side, so that the board may be rested on
the left forearm with the bottom edge against the body. The watch should be securely held so that it
can be easily read and manipulated. A strong spring clip should also be fitted to the board to hold the
forms on which the study is recorded.

Study board for short cycle form

Study board for general purpose form

NOTES:

Tayla Training © 20
Allowances
Standard time = Normal time + Allowances

Before it is possible to complete and issue that Standard Time for a job, it is necessary to add certain
allowances to the basic time.
The reason for adding these allowances is so that you only consider the productive work of the
Operator and not the periods of rest that are required by the Operator to enable the Operator to
recover from the energy expended. Even under the best working method situation, the job will still
demand the expenditure of human effort and some allowance must therefore be made for recovery
from fatigue and for relaxation. Allowances must also be made to enable the worker to attend to his
personal needs. The allowances are categorised as:

• Relaxation / Fatigue allowance

• Interference allowance
• Contingency allowance
• Machine Allowance
• Special allowances

Relaxation / Fatigue Allowances

People are not machines and they need to go the toilet, take a break etc. Relaxation and fatigue
allowances are provided to give the Operator the opportunity to recover from the effort of doing work,
and to allow for attention to personal needs. Relaxation and fatigue allowances are always added to
the basic time.

All industrial occupations cause fatigue, some more than others. Fatigue may be caused by physical
effort, long periods of close concentration, awkward posture etc. Relaxation allowances are calculated
so as to allow the worker to recover from fatigue. A relaxation allowance is an addition to the basic
time. It is intended to provide the worker with the opportunity to recover from the physiological and
psychological effects of carrying out the specified work. The amount of the allowance will depend on
nature of the job. Short cycle repetitive work (below 0.10 minutes) normally requires a greater
relaxation allowance than long cycle work. This is because the repetitive use of a given set of muscles
requires a longer period of time to recover. In very short cycle work monotony can become a problem.
In addition to the fatigue allowance there must be adequate time allocated for personal needs. This
time can be taken as an organised break or alternatively breaks at the Operators own discretion.

Tayla Training © 21
Relaxation allowances are of two types: fixed allowances and variable allowances.

• Fixed Allowances:

Personal Needs Allowance: This is intended to compensate the Operator for the time necessary
to leave the workplace to attend to personal needs like drinking water, smoking, washing hands
et. Women require longer personal allowances than men. A fair personal allowance is 5% for
men, and 7% for women.

Fatigue Allowance: This allowance is given to compensate for energy expended during working
time. A figure considered fair for this allowance is 4% of the basic time. Standing work may
require an additional allowance usually around 2%.

• Variable Allowances

A variable allowance is given to an Operator who is working under poor environmental

conditions that cannot be improved. Examples would be extreme heat or cold. Added stress and
strain is accumulated due to these factors. The variable fatigue allowance is added to the fixed
allowance of an Operator who is engaged in medium to heavy work and working under
abnormal conditions. The amount of variable fatigue allowance varies from organization to
organization.

Interference Allowance (Where an Operator works more than 1 machine)

It is an allowance included to compensate the Operator for the unavoidable loss of production due
to the simultaneous stoppage of two or more machines being operated. This allowance is applicable
for machine or process-controlled jobs. Interference allowance varies in proportion to number of
machines assigned to the Operator.

Contingency Allowance

A contingency allowance is an allowance which may be included in a standard time to meet

legitimate and expected items of infrequent or irregular occurrence. This allowance provides for
small unavoidable delays as well as for occasional minor extra work: Some of the examples calling
for contingency allowance are: Tool breakage, droppages, brief power failures, communication with
senior and support staff etc.

In certain types of work, an Operator’s job may include a number of minor duties which are infrequent
and impractical to measure. Whenever possible all contingencies recorded in a Time Study should be
investigated to see whether they can be eliminated by Method Study, or whether their frequency of
occurrence can be determined.
A contingency allowance should not be greater than 5% and should only be given in cases where it can
be justified. The contingency allowances should be expressed as a percentage of the basic time.

Tayla Training © 22
Machine Allowance

During the course of the Operator’s day, it is inevitable that they will have to attend to the sewing
machine that they are using. The machine allowance is added to the basic time to compensate for the
Operator having to temporarily stop work.
Machine allowances cover spool, bobbin and cone changes, thread and needle breaks, adjusting
tension, and all small machine problems that do not require a mechanic to be called.
This allowance will vary from machine to machine e.g. a single needle lockstitch machine is around
5%, but a double needle lockstitch machine is usually around 8%.

Special Allowances

• Periodic Activity Allowances

These allowances are made for work carried out periodically during the sewing of a bundle of
work. An example is bundle handling which can, if required, be expressed as a percentage and
added as an allowance.
• Short Run allowances
These would be given to compensate the worker for constantly having to adjust to variations in
the job, due to style or fabric changes.
• Policy Allowances
A policy allowance consists of a factor applied to the Standard Time to provide a satisfactory level
of performance and basic earning. This is usually required as part of a Trade Union agreement.
Such allowances are usually decided by management.

ILLUSTRATION 1:
Determine normal and standard time if:

• The total observed time for an operation of assembling an electric switch is 1.00 min.
• The rating is 120%,
• A total allowance of 10% is given for the operation,

ILLUSTRATION 2:
Determine normal and standard time if:

• Average time for machine elements = 6 min

• Average time for manual elements = 4 min
• Performance rating = 110%
• Allowances = 10%

Tayla Training © 23
The Work Cycle and Elements
The work cycle can be defined as a sequence of events or motions required to complete a task. If an
Operator's job is to sew collars on to a shirt and the Operator completes 5 shirts, this will be observed
as 5 cycles. The work cycle is also referred to as an “operation”.

When undertaking a study it is better to break the operation down into elements as this ensues
greater accuracy. Rating is also easier over short cycles and errors of timing show up better. Uneven
times for cycles may show up poor skill but they may reveal something wrong e.g. with the
presentation of work.

Elements

An element is a distinct part of the work cycle. Elements should not be much less than 10
centiminutes, to give the Work Study officer time to note each reading and to write it down. Usually
an element is also not much more than 30 centiminutes, otherwise useful information may be lost, or
attention may wander.

Elements should consist of simple steps, each of which is comprised of one type of work, e.g. sewing,
folding, aligning, disposing, etc, and which can be described clearly and unambiguously, examples are:

• PICK UP FROM TABLE

• BRING UNDER NEEDLE
• SEW TO NOTCH
• REACH BACK AND ALIGN EDGES SEW TO END
• FOLD AND DISPOSE

Breakpoints

Each element should have a clear start, and end with a clearly marked break point - the moment at
which the watch is to be operated - which can be remembered easily. Break points should relate to
some obvious motion, such as putting down the garment, bringing it under the foot, placing down a
template, etc. Audible signals are most helpful, since they enable the observer to concentrate on the
watch at the vital moment.

Where the operation consists of several similar elements, for the left and right sides of the garment,
for example, the same or similar break points should be chosen for each.

A break point is best explained by use of an example. Consider 2 elements:

1 Sew side seam.

2 Remove garment from machine and place aside.

The break point will occur the minute element 1 stops and element 2 starts, i.e. the sound of the
machine stopping.

Tayla Training © 24
Types of Element

• Repetitive
These occur in every job cycle, e.g. ‘Pick up and position at needle’. Sometimes they may be
repeated within the cycle, e.g. ‘Close second cuff’. Most repetitive elements take about the same
amount of time on each occasion that they occur.

• Occasional
An occasional element does not occur in every work cycle but is part of the job and may occur at
regular intervals. ‘Bundle handling’ is a good example. The time allowed is usually dependent
upon the number of garments in the bundle and may be based on historical data.

• Constant
These elements always have the same basic time. The replacement of thread for a colour change
is a good example

• Variable
For these elements the basic time will vary dependent on various factors. An example would be
garments of differing length or major size curve variation.

• Manual
These elements are those parts of the job that do not involve machining e.g. trimming.

• Machine
These elements are the opposite of manual and involve the use of a machine.

• Foreign
Sometimes work may be carried out which is essential to production but is not part of the
operation being studied e.g. cleaning chalk marks.

• Governing
We often find that there are “elements within elements” which are not worth studying. The larger
element is known as the governing element.

Determining the Number of Cycles

This is dependent upon the accuracy required and the time available. It is usual to adopt a statistical
approach, the accuracy of the study being shown by the variation in the individual recordings - the
more the variation, the more cycles to be recorded.

Variations in conditions may also affect the number of cycles required for a representative sample:
e.g.: black fabric may take longer than other colours to sew to the agreed quality standard. This
problem is best overcome by a number of studies carried out at intervals and preferably on different
people.

From 20 to 100 cycles is generally adequate in the clothing industry for establishing rates. Two bundles
may be enough to also measure the time for bundle handling which would usually be obtained from
previous records.

Tayla Training © 25
Basic Time Study Procedure

https://youtu.be/jDaa1HZQQZg

There will probably be a certain amount of fear and suspicion on the part of Operators who are about
to be timed. There may also be a number of other reasons why Operators are suspicious of time
study:

• The Operator may feel that their continued employment is being threatened
• The Operator may understandably react negatively against something they do not understand.
• The Operator may believe that time study will lead to decreased time standards forcing them to
work harder and at a pace that may not be attainable.

It is important for the Work Study officer to keep communicating the reasons behind the study to the
Operators affected by the study. Spending time in the department getting to know the Operators &
systems will help alleviate these problems.

The procedure described below is typically used by a Work Study officer when setting times. Before
commencing the Work Study officer should ensure that:

• The watch or watch board is in proper working order

• They have a spare pencil and suitable paper
• That enough time has been set aside for the intended study.

Meet the Supervisor

• The Work Study officer enlighten the Supervisor and obtain their commitment to the process
before commencing the study.
• Information should be obtained on general Operator performance for the operation to be studied
identifying specifically those Operators that are known to work at 100%.
• Before starting the study it should be verified that there are no abnormal conditions, and that
there will be no interruptions in the supply of work to the Operator.

Tayla Training © 26
Meet the Operators

The officer should do his best to put the Operator at ease from the start. If the Operator is too nervous
it may be an idea to delay the start of the study to give the Operator time to adjust to the idea. It
should be made quite clear to the Operator from the beginning that it is the job that is going to be
studied and not the Operator. If a study is correctly carried out it does not matter how fast or slow
the Operator works, the result will be the same. The following pointers may assist in establishing a
good relationship.

• Explain the purpose of Time Study openly and honestly to create the confidence necessary for a
fair analysis of the job.
• Clearly inform the Operator what is required.
• Answer questions arising
• Ask the Operator to explain her job and the difficulties the Operator may have.
• Ask her to work her usual rate/pace and take her usual rest periods.
• Tell the Operator when the study is started and when it is finished.
• Thank the Operator for the assistance when you have finished your study.

Chose Observation Point

The WS officer should choose an observation point close to the Operator, which allows him to see the
complete cycle of motions, and which causes the minimum distraction to the Operator. He should
stand throughout the study.

Initial Observation

For the first few minutes one should simply watch the various Operators and the operation as a whole,
to make yourself familiar with the general situation and to allow time for the Operators to settle into
their normal routine. Carry out an outline Method Study on each Operator.

Define the Elements and Select the Operators

Decide the best way of breaking down the operation into elements in order to:

• Increase insight into the method being used by the Operator,

• Allow comparisons between Operators strengths and weaknesses
• Assist in developing improved methods.
• Ensure that if there are occasional disturbances in the work during the study, only the element
time is lost, and not the whole cycle.

Once this has been done you may select the Operators for the Time Study

Tayla Training © 27
Timing and Rating

Once the study is under way, full concentration is needed and the Work Study officer cannot be
distracted. Care must be taken to write clearly and legibly, even at top speed. Timing and rating is to
be done in accordance with the equipment used and factory norms.

The study will be continued until the required number of readings for each element is obtained. These
will be increased if there have been any marked fluctuations in the individual element times. This is
to ensure that the study will be sufficiently representative of average conditions.

For time studies on sewing operations, the most suitable form (document) will have vertical columns
for each element, and space to record as much information as possible about the operation - the
machine type, the workplace layout, etc. The Work Study officer will complete all of this meticulously
since they cannot be sure which factors will be important in some future investigation or comparison.

Recording

Times should be recorded to two decimal places. It is conventional to round up values of 0.0045 to
0.005 when a flyback watch is used, in order to compensate for flyback error. A method which is easy
to use and which is still within the accuracy of the process of rate and time is always to round up halves
Readings 0.09; 0.085; 0.12; 0.115
Recorded as 0.09; 0.09; 0.12; 0.12
Note that the zero is always written. Decimal points are easily missed and if for some reason a study
is photocopied, extra dots can often appear in the process. Centiminutes should be written as Cmins
or cmins. It is incorrect to write ‘cm’ as this could be taken for a unit of length.

Motion Disturbances / Ineffective Time

If there are any disturbances in the Operator's cycle, such as dropping scissors or thread breaks, etc
the time for the affected element must be recorded on the study form. It should however be circled
and later eliminated so as not to distort the average of the normal readings. (Allowances for these
disturbances will be added separately, when the study has been completed). The experienced
observer will add his own code -TB (thread break), I (interruption), etc., to remind them what the
cause of the disturbance was, this in case the study is checked at some later date.

A different approach would be to set aside one column for activities which do not form part of the
work which are covered by allowances. These may be important but not part of the job cycle, like
talking with the Supervisor. In order to avoid dealing with these activities one can hold down the
‘flyback’ button but this would cause discrepancies on the lapsed time versus totalled study time.

Sewn Quality

Before leaving the Operator, the Work Study officer must confirm with the Supervisor that the quality
of the work produced during the study is acceptable. It is important not to set a standard time based
on speed which ignores the required quality levels.

Tayla Training © 28
Timing Errors

The most common source of errors in time study are the following:

• Dexterity
Slow operation of the lever or button on a stopwatch

• Carelessness
Careless reading of the watch (e.g.: reading 25 instead of 35)
Careless Writing (ego: writing a 9 which looks like 0)
Errors of addition

• Repetitions
A particular error which occurs frequently with inexperienced observers, results from confusion
over the number of times an element occurs per garment. A perfectly good study will be taken
on making cuffs, for example, but the fact that there are two cuffs per garment will be forgotten.

• Breakpoint
If the exact breakpoint is not noted accurately or if the time at which it occurs is observed
imprecisely, then the time for the element will be too large or too small and the time for the next
element will be decreased or increased accordingly. This is a particular problem with ‘flyback’
timing, since the practitioner will have to observe both the breakpoint and the time on the watch
face at the same instant, but it can be reduced if an audible breakpoint is chosen.

• Flyback Error
This is a tiny, but constant loss of time, whilst the flyback hand returns to zero, and is seen in the
flyback and split needle watch. It causes the total of the observed times to be less than the elapsed
time. This is known as ‘flyback error’. With a good watch this will be insignificant. Correction is
easy using a second timepiece to give the total elapsed time between the start and the end of the
study. Note the total number of observations. Establish the difference between the total
observed times and the total elapsed time. Add a proportion of this to each observation.

• Hold Down
If the flyback knob is not released at once, after returning the hands to zero, the hands will be
delayed in their movement and this, too, results in a loss of recorded time.

• Lag
Some practitioners develop the habit of noting the correct time for the breakpoint and of then
returning the hands to zero. If it is small and fairly consistent little harm is done to the overall
time. Only the first and last observations will be incorrect. The first will be fractionally too long
and the last too short.

• Gross Errors
Sometimes the observer will omit to record the minute reading and this will be obvious if the time
is compared with that for other observations for the same element. However, other gross errors
may occur which are less easily detected. For this reason a comparison of the total time for the
study should always be compared with the total observed times.

Tayla Training © 29
• Fumbles
Occasionally an element time may be extended by a fumble. This should be ringed and ignored.
Caution is advised in doing this, since frequent fumbles may have a significance. For example,
work may arrive with an occasional pair of plies welded together in the cutting process.

Calculating the Standard Minute Value (SMV / SAM)

Once the study is completed you would use the observed rating and times, together with the
allowances, to calculate the standard time for the operation. On the Work Study officer’s return to
the office they will compare the total of all the readings on the sheet, including disturbances, with the
total elapsed time shown on his wristwatch or a separate stopwatch, to verify that the study is
accurate to within 1%. All calculations must be double-checked as a matter of habit. Finally they would
update the records and install the value.

• Cycle Time / Observed Time:

Cycle time is defined as the time duration from the starting point of a job to the starting point of
the next job. This time is established from the observation data.

Example: In a sewing operation, pick up of first piece to pick up of second pieces is cycle time.
The cycle time includes material handling along with actual work time on a machine.

• Basic Time / Normal Time:

The Basic time of a job is determined by applying the rating factor to the observed time (cycle
time). Basic time is also expressed as Normal time. The Basic time does not include allowances.

Basic time = (Observed time X Performance Rating)/100

Basic Time = (Standard Time - Allowances)

NOTES:

Tayla Training © 30
• Standard Time:
Standard time is “the time allowed for an Operator to carry out the specified task under
specified condition and defined level of performance”. This is the recognised definition for
standard time. Standard time includes allowances as discussed previously

Standard Time = Basic Time + Allowances

Chart: This shows how standard time is made up

• Conclusion:
For a specific task the following conclusions may be drawn
- Observed Time may be greater or lower than Basic Time.
- Basic Time is always lower than Standard Time
- To set the Standard Time for a job you must add allowances to the Basic Time (normal time)

https://youtu.be/paOdijgU4t8

Tayla Training © 31
3. Other techniques
Activity Sampling
Activity sampling is the method of finding the percentage occurrence of a certain activity by
statistical sampling and random observations.

The main principle of activity sampling is that it is based on what was actually observed during that
instance, not what is about to take place or what just took place. It is carried out by random
observation during a controlled period ranging from an hour to a week or more depending on the
circumstances.

Production Studies
A production study is a continuous study of a relatively lengthy duration, often extending over a period
of one or more hours, taken with the objective of checking an existing or proposed standard time, or
for obtaining other information affecting the rate of output.

From time to time, the Supervisor will find a problem with an Operator who should be able to reach
the required standard or output but does not do so. Often in such cases, neither the Supervisor, nor
the Operator him/herself, will be able to suggest any particular reason for the low performance.

If a preliminary check by conventional Time Study does not show any reason for the difference, it is
essential that a production study be made to establish why the Operator is unable to perform the task
in the required Standard Time.

The inability of the Operator to accomplish the task in the required time may be due to several factors;

• Changes in the fabric

• Changes in the method, layout or working conditions
• Inadequate training
• Errors in the original Time Study
• Operator laziness

A production study is used to investigate complaints and to determine facts including the following:

• To ensure that time standards do in fact cover all of the activities involved,
• To observe the incidence of waiting time and other details
• To obtain new data on which to compile interference and contingency allowances,
• To record the performance of a particular department for future reference,
• To establish whether the output of an Operator is showing a downward trend,
• To establish what times during the day fatigue affects the Operator’s performance,
• To inspire confidence, Operators should believe in the fairness of the standard times set.

Tayla Training © 32
Acknowledgements / Reference Material:

• Celrose GSD Documentation

• http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com
• Tayla Training Programme Material
• CTFL SETA: Join Component Parts
• DUT Workstudy Notes

Tayla Training © 33