globe trot

Blistering
Brussels!
More than just ‘frite’ revolution
and funny business

A
By Va ni S a ra swathi

t the end of five days, I can truly say I’ve experienced efficient emergency care.
just about everything Brussels has to offer. F16s es- True, two F-16 fighter jets piloted by Belgian air
corting us in Belgian airspace. Axelle Red live. Stay- force officers welcoming the inaugural Qatar Airways
ing in an erstwhile jail. Chocolates by the tonne, flight to Europe’s capital is a tough act to follow. But
speculoos by the carton, unmentionable beverages, Brussels put up a fight, despite the average tempera-
truffles, mussels, art nouveau architecture, brilliant ture staying between -5C and 2C.
comics, efficient paramedical service and the not so The trip came to an end with a bang, as well. Trip-

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Grand Place
by night

ping on an almost invisible road divider, flying across sing its praises.
the street, landing on the pavement nose first, right Its sheer compactness, its connectivity within and
in front of a fine dining restaurant, where a group of to other European destinations, the civility of its resi-
us were planning to celebrate our last night in Brus- dents, its eclectic – and sometimes not so pretty – ar-
sels. How aptly slapstick that this should happen in a chitecture, the array of cuisines on offer, little wonder
country whose pride is its comic heritage. that it’s rocking the MICE charts.
Brussels’ appeal is not just its rich and complicated Old railways stations converted to trendy venue for
history, it’s also about the rather incomprehensible events like the Royal Depot of Tours & Taxis.
present. To put it simply – the French speaking and Outside of business there is plenty to see as well.
Flemish speaking parts of Belgium are not quite see- And you can do most of it by foot. But the Grand Place
ing eye to eye. So nine months after an election, the is where evenings are meant to be spent, branching off
country still doesn’t have a government – the longest from the main square are little alleys where you can
a country has gone without one. The previous record get hot frites (thicker, meatier version of the French
holder was Iraq, so a rather dubious distinction, this. fries) and fresh waffles; cheap made in China rip-offs
Surprisingly, the lack of governance doesn’t seem of Bruges lace and authentic Belgian tapestry; price-
to have affected the functioning of the capital city – less antiques; Tintin merchandise, gorgeous Delvaux
home to the EU Parliament, where at any given point bags and cheap rexine jackets; thirst quenchers; and
a dozen dignitaries are visiting. Possibly, only the chocolates in every corner.
emergency services have felt the brunt of non-gover- But what is really going to inspire people to stop
nance. One of the leading MICE destinations in the over in Brussels is probably Spielberg taking on
world, Brussels thrives on its citizens’ passion for it. Herge. Having got the rights to make movies of three
There is a stunning lack of nationalism amongst a lot Tintin books, Steven Spielberg and Sony have fina-
of the people we interacted with. No Hercule Poirot- lised Brussels as the location to shoot the films. Next
like Belgian pride; but more of “I am European, and I up, the city is trying to win the rights to host the world
love Brussels. That’s all,” as one tour guide said. About premier as well.
the city, however, there is no ambivalence. Even a re- If you do decide to go there before Tintin is immor-
cent economic migrant to the city cannot help but talised on the silver screen, there is still plenty to do.

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Other not to miss

spots include:

EU Parliament
And other offices of
the European Union
and European Commis-
sion are worth a visit,
to understand how in
an era of dissonance,
there are attempts to
do away with
boundaries.

F16
F16s piloted by the Belgian air force welcomes
Qatar Airways inaugural flight to Brussels into
the country’s airspace.

governments. That’s
bull**** (sic). How did
they start off? And we
don’t even get the kind of
Galerie St Hubert: aid they did,” he said to a
A glazed shopping packed press conference
arcade, the Galerie
in Brussels, the day after
is considered one of
the earliest shopping the launch.
malls in Europe. He ruled out multiple
hubs – reciting the fail-
ure of airlines that have
attempted this – and said
Doha would continue to
be the hub, feeding other
sectors.
Of course, no QR pre-
Akbar Al-Baker, sentation is complete
CEO, QATAR AIRWAYS without its GTL-fuelled
sprint from London to
Magritte Museum:
Doha in October 2009.
The RenÈ Magritte
Museum occupies the QR’s Continental Odyssey Al-Baker told Qatar
house in which the Budapest, Bucharest, Brussels, Stuttgart... Today that 2012 will see several more commercial
Belgian surrealist flights fuelled by GTL with the arrival of the A340s.
painter worked nearly The third European destination to be launched in Cleaner air travel fuelled his continuing tirade
24 years of his life.
January itself, Qatar Airways obviously is relishing against European airlines at the Gala dinner. “Then
cocking a snook at its continental adversaries. there is this whole talk of our carbon emissions –
Always up for a challenge, Qatar Airways CEO when figures only show them in poor light.”
Akbar Al Baker spared no opportunity to retaliate “Our emissions are only 94.5g CO2/RPK com-
against ‘unjust’ allegations made by European legacy pared to over 100g for European legacy carriers,” he
carriers. stressed.
“They accuse us (fast expanding Middle Eastern The heated welcome to the Gala was only matched
carriers) of being subsidised and coddled by our by Axelle Red’s performance late into the night.

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Herge Museum
Though not in Brussels, it’s just a short
drive out of the city to Louvain-la-Neuve.
The museum was established by Fanny
Rodwell, Herge’s widow and her husband
Nick Rodwell.
Rodwell wanted a modern, airy, bright
space that spoke of Herge without restrict-
ing him to his masterpiece, Tintin.
And that’s what the exhibits do – speak of
him as the illustrator, caricaturist, adver-
tiser, graphic designer, and the creator of
Sablon
other characters such as Jo, Zette, Quick
and Flupke. If you do have an eye for antiques and deep pockets
Designed by Christian de Portzamparc, the to go with it, then the street is worth visiting. We also
museum is an elongated prism that seems to stopped for some aperetifs at the beautiful where
float in a forest of ancient trees. from what you sit on to what you brush against has a
history and value that can overwhelm you.
getting
there

Qatar
Airways

5
flies

times a week
to Brussels

For
bookings
villa empain www.qatarairways.com.qa
a CULTURAL EXCHANGE CENTRE, ENVISIONED BY Jean Boghossian (INSET) AND HIS family

Villa Empain Armenia to Lebanon and Syria, and then arriving in

A gorgeous example of Art Deco architecture, the Vil- Belgium in 1975. The family of jewellers established
la Empain is now a centre for cultural exchange be- the exclusive Bogh-Art brand (available in Qatar at Al
tween East and West. The pet project of the Boghos- Majed Jewellery).
sian Foundation, we not only met Diane Hennebert Having seen strife and war throughout his life, he
who was in charge of the renovation (she incidentally wanted people to grow past enimity and conflict and
also directed the Atomium renovation) but also had find a common language – art in this case – that ig-
the unique pleasure of meeting Jean Boghossian one nores differences in religion and culture. “We don’t
of the two brothers behind the vision of this project. want millions more dead before we find that language.
Created in 1992, the Boghossian Foundation has And this was our family’s commitment to that end.”
been involved in contributing to the improvement Apart from collections from the Arab region, there
of the living conditions of those affected by war and are temporary exhibitions that touch upon a lot of
natural disasters, especially in Lebanon and in Arme- sensitive and topical issues. During our visit, it was
nia. In 2006, the foundation acquired Villa Empain, the Colours of the Orient: Arts and lifestyles in the
and after complete restoration opened its door to the Ottoman Empire. Next month, the exhibition enti-
public in April 2010. tled ‘Of Women’s Modesty and Anger’ will talk of ritu-
Auquier recounts his family’s flight from native als, garbs and convictions.

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Where to stay:

T
hese are just two of the many rea-
sons why you could choose to stay
in Hotel Amigo.
First, its location. It’s just a
stone’s throw away from the Grand
Place, and walking distance from several shopping
areas, museums and fantastic restaurants. Getting
crisp speculoos from Dandoy or chocolates from
Neu Hause demands nothing more than 10 steps
out of the doorway. The quirkier reason is the kick
of staying in what used to be a prison. The origi-
nal building predates 1522, when the city council
bought the building from a wealthy merchant and
converted it to a prison. The Spanish rulers at that
time mistook Flemish for prison to mean ‘friend’,
and made it ‘amigo’. As the guide joked, then it
wasn’t easy getting out of Amigo, now it’s difficult to
get into it.The Hotel was built by the Blaton family
in 1957 on the occasion of the World Fair. In 2000,
Where to eat it became a part of the Rocco Forte collection. For
amigo
The former jail is now a luxury hotel
And of course what
to eat. Do try fresh bookings check www.roccofortecollecton.com.
chocolates from the
finest – Marcolini, Neu
Haus, Gerbaud (where
you can even attend
a chocolate making
workshop).
Stop at the roadside
cafes for hot waffles
or fritAes – when the
temperature is relent-
lessly below zero and
the sky a steady shade
of grey, chocolates,
waffles and chips can
brighten the day.
For sheer novelty and
an unbeatable view
of the city, lunch at
the restaurant on the
topmost sphere of the
Atomium.
Kwint and Museum
Brasserie (near the
Musee Magritte) pro-
vide excellent Belgian
comic strip center
cuisine.
where characters from childhood come alive

Belgian Comic Strip Center The 4,000 sq mts of space is used for both perma-
Even if you are not into comics, this place is not to nent and temporary exhibitions. It brings together
be missed. As the promotional brochure claims, it is everything related to comic strips, from its begin-
the ‘Kingdom of the Smurfs, Tintin, Lucky Luke.’ It nings, through its persistence during periods of war,
is not only about what is housed at the centre alone, and to recent developments, not only from Europe
it is also about where it is housed. It is a masterpiece but even from emerging comic centres like Japan
of Art Nouveau architecture, designed by the famous (Manga).
Belgian architect Victor Horta (one of the most im- As Jean Auquier of the Center says, “Our little
portant names in the movement). A haven of natural country, that probably has the world’s highest density
lighting, the building once used to be a boutique for of paper heroes and story tellers per sq km, owed it to
silk fabric. itself to create this centre.

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Atomium
he Atomium was build for the

T
1958 World Fair, and was not
meant to survive beyond the
exhibition period. The Atomi-
um symbolised an iron crystal
(magnified 165 billion times), to
show the power of nuclear energy, and its use for
peaceful purposes, which was the subject of the
exhibition that year.
Of the nine spheres, three are supported by
the other six. Except for those three, the rest
are now used for exhibitions, restaurants and
events. A permanent exhibition is dedicated to
the ‘58 Expo.’
The spectacular view from the top (including
over Mini Europe theme park), and the ride in
the elevator – which in 1958 was the fastest, are
the highlights of a visit to the site. The Atomium
was refurbished in 2006.
atomium
an architectural wonder

Manneken Pis:
There is no escap-
EU experience to a seamless GCC
Time for a study The common currency for one. “This is as much a
ing this little naked
boy – he is there on
political as a financial and monetary project. The euro fridge magnets and
Home to EU parliament, Brussels – even without a has been a success but the recent past has learned chocolate moulds.

government of its own – is where diplomacy, compro- that to be sustainable, the monetary union has to be His imagery will
stalk you – even tire
mises and doing away with boundaries can be supplemented by a stronger harmonisation of the na- you a bit. Legend
studied. tional economic, fiscal, tax and social policies,” says has it that he saved
That apart, trade between Qatar and Belgium has Devolder. On the common market that the GCC states the city of Brussels
been on the rise. Imports were around 193 million have been working on, he feels it is another long-term from a bomb by wet-

euros in 2006, and it touched €337 million in 2009, project. “It involves not only the abolition of internal ting it. And though he
flaunts his
covering trade in machinery and chemical products. custom borders and the creation of a unique common nakedness, he has a
Exports had risen from €188 million (2006) to border with the outside world. The most difficult part wardrobe of close
€989 million (Jan-Oct 2010), and about 95% of this is the harmonisation of legislations, regulations and to 1,000 formal
was in LNG trade. There are a few big players in the rules concerning production, safety, marketing etc. of uniforms, gifted by

construction industry in Qatar. However, the Belgian products and services. It involves also the introduc- visiting heads of
state from around
Ambassador to Qatar Luc Devolder is confident that tion and implementation of strict rules to guarantee the world.
in light of the 2022 FIFA world cup, there could be free and fair competition.”
more opportunities.
“Sixconstruct and CFE in construction and Jan- MICE capital
DeNul and DEME in dredging and Landwinning are With an annual MICE turnover of €4 million, about
some of the biggest companies here. There are doz- 25,000 people are employed in the industry in Brus-
ens of other companies who export products and ser- sels alone. In 2009, 70,000 meetings were held in the
vices to Qatar but on the basis of smaller and specific city, which resulted in more than 1.8 million over-
contracts and without permanent representation in nights in 165 hotels, according to official statistics.
Qatar. The similarities between Doha and Brussels are
“There is certainly scope for expansion. They many, which is why it would pay to pay attention to
should take part in the large infrastructure projects how the European city pushes ahead of other hot
connected to the World Cup 2022. As for the World MICE destinations in the EU. In general terms,
Cup itself, the Belgian Sports Technology Club, an Brussels’ main rivals for hosting MICE events are
association of companies specialised in services and Barcelona, Paris and Amsterdam. In 2009, Paris was
products for international (sports) events, is very in- the most popular choice for those organisations/
terested in participating.” businesses that did not choose Brussels. In 2009,
Apart from MICE, there are regional similarities Brussels welcomed 2,728,516 visitors of whom 2%
that could make for good exchange in learnings. were from the Middle East

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