Abstract

A little variation in dyeing procedure applied when fabric dyed with ground water and sea water.
When ground water from natural sources used as dyeing medium wetting agents, sequestering agents, anti-
creasing agents, salt, soda everything were applied to complete dyeing process. But in case of sea water we
didn’t apply sequestering agents so that the hardness of sea water might not be broken. Again Bay of Bengal
water contains a lot of salts, so it wasn’t needed to use salts for dyeing with sea water. The main purpose of
our research was to find out the differences in several physical and chemical properties of dyed fabrics and
to determine whether can be used sea water as dyeing medium for dyeing process. Sea water is available in
Bangladesh. Again due to lack of ground water availability the layer of our ground water falls down every
year. So, it has become a crying need to find out another alternative source of water to continue our
industrial dyeing process. For this purpose we wanted to find out the possibilities and opportunities of using
sea water as dyeing medium instead of ground water.

Keywords: cotton, ground water, sea water, reactive dye, shade variation, reflectance %, color
fastness, color strength

Introduction
The fresh water scarcity is a growing problem all over the world because only 1% of earth’s water is
fresh water available for human to drink [1]. The US geological survey found that 96.5% of earth’s water is
located in seas and oceans and 1.7% of earth’s water is located in the ice caps. The remaining percentage is
made up of brackish water, slightly salty water found as surface water [2-4]. However, the textile industries
are continuously using underground water for dyeing and washing garments and other textile products. They
uses large quantity of water in its production processes and highly polluted and toxic waste waters are
discharged in to sewers and drains without any kind of treatment [5-6]. Nearly 110 liters of water is needed
to dye 1kg cotton fabric and thus the water consumption of an average sized textile mill having capacity
only 8tons/day is about 880000 liters per day [7]. So water scarcity will deepen in the future for meeting
demand of industrialization and agriculture purpose. It is urgent to enhance irrigation efficiency and surface
water use. It can be investigated the use of sea water for textile dyeing purpose as there is massive land in
our coastal area like Chittagong, Mongla, Pirozpur and Khulna.
In this work, it is an attempt to use sea water in dyeing of cotton fabric and compare the difference of
shade with dyed samples with ground water. Sea water is collected from cox’s bazar sea beach used as raw
with pH of 7-8, hardness is about 3.94g/L and TDS is 20920 PPM (2100 g/L). It is investigated the effects of
dyeing of cotton fabric with different shade (1.2% & 2.2% ) with reactive dyes (brand name Solazol)
using ground water and sea water. The effects of color fastness to wash, rubbing and perspiration fastness of
dyed fabrics are also studied and reported in this paper.
 Materials and methods
For this experiment, we used 100% single jersey cotton fabric of 140GSM, count of yarn was 30/1,
and stitch length was 2.6mm. Fabrics for the dyeing of samples were collected from Interstoff Apparels
Limited, Chandra, Gazipur, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Two types of water were used for the experiment, one using
sea water was collected from the Bay of Bengal off the South East coast of Bangladesh with pH of 7-8,
hardness is about 3.94g/L and TDS is 20920 PPM (2100g/L). The final target of this work was to compare
the effects of fastness properties between dyed fabric with normal water and dyed fabric with sea water.
Color fastness tester, Beesley’s balance, Crocking meter, Stop watch, ICI pilling tester and
Spectrophotometer were used to do the physical, mechanical and visual properties of the 100% cotton single
jersey fabric. In the pretreatment stage of dyeing, Wetting agent (Deterpal HW), sequestering agent
(Sequestrante 549), Anti-creasing agent (Novolube PAN 200), Stabilizer (Perox PAG), Sodium Hydroxide
(Natrium Hydroxide),
H2O2 (Product BSS), Soda ash (Natrium-bi-carbonate), Peroxide killer (Oxitase Kp) and Acetic acid were
used. For the dyeing stage and the after treatment stage respectively Ground water, Sea water from Bay of
Bengal, Wetting agent (Deterpal HW), sequestering agent (Sequestrante 549), Anticreasing agent (Novolube
PAN 200), Scarlet Dye (Scarlet 3GF), Levelling agent (Permacol RK), Glauber salt, Soda ash and Acetic
acid, Detergent (Deterpal HW), Fixing agent (Novofix CT/HYP) were also used.

Methods of the experiments

Scouring and bleaching process of cotton fabric: Set the bath with substrate at room temperature
with wetting agent, sequestering agent and anti-creasing agent. Then load 40gm 100% cotton single jersey
fabric in the pot. After 5 minutes added soda ash and NaOH. Again after 5 minutes added H 2O2 and raised
the temperature to 100˚C. After reaching 100˚C temperature, run for 40 minutes at the same temperature.
After that lowered the temperature at 50˚C and rinsed for 10 minutes then dropped the liquor. Again raised
the temperature at 80˚C gradually, applied H 2O2 killer and run for 10 minutes. After then lowered the
temperature at 50˚C and rinsed for 10 minutes. Finally treated the sample with acetic acid for 10 minutes at
60˚C temperature to make the sample neutral and then rinsed with cold water again.
Dyeing with ground water: At first in room temperature, ground water, wetting agent, sequestering
agent and anti-creasing agents were mixed in dyeing bath. Then fabric sample was immerged here. Dyes
mixed in the dyeing bath. Temperature was increased gradually up to 80˚C. Salt was added when
temperature increasing. At 80˚C temperature, soda ash dosed and run about 60 minutes. Then cool down the
bath and rinsed fabric at 50˚C. Fabric was treated with Acetic acid to neutralize it. Then temperature
increased and at 90˚C, detergent was added. Then rinsed the fabric at 50˚C temperature. After all fixing
agent was mixed in dye bath at 60˚C temperature for 10 minutes to fix the dye molecules with fabric.
Dyeing with sea water: At first in room temperature, sea water, wetting agent and anticreasing
agents were mixed in dyeing bath. Then fabric sample was immerged here. Dyes mixed in the dyeing bath.
Temperature was increased gradually up to 80˚C. At 80˚C temperature, soda ash dosed and run about 60
minutes. Then cool down the bath and rinsed fabric at 50˚C. Fabric was treated with Acetic acid to
neutralize it. Then temperature increased and at 90˚C, detergent was added. Then rinsed the fabric at 50˚C
temperature. After all fixing agent was mixed in dye bath at 60˚C temperature for 10 minutes to fix the dye
molecules with fabric.
 Test procedures
Testing procedure of reflectance % of dyed samples: The reflectance percentages of ground water
dyed samples and sea water dyed samples were measured and compared using a UV VIS-NIR reflective
spectrometer (Spectra Flash SF 600 X, USA), over the range of 400nm to 700nm.

Testing procedure of color strength: The color intensities of ground water dyed fabric and sea
water dyed fabric for a specific design and construction, fabrics were measured and compared using a UV
VISNIR reflective spectrometer (Spectra Flash SF 600 X, USA), over the range of 400nm to 700nm.

Testing procedure of colorfastness to rubbing (ISO 105X12; 1993; BS EN ISO 105X12; 1995):
Test specimen:
 A 5x5cm sample is taken and stiched to a monofibre having 40sx40s, 80x70 of cotton fiber.
 The GSM of monofibre used is 115-120g, and whiteness index is 80-85.

Test procedure:
Dry rubbing test:
 For dry method both ISO and AATCC method are same.
 The fabric is to the flat bed.
 Swatch is attached to the rubbing finger and within 10 seconds, 10 times stroke is given.

Wet rubbing test:

 In wet method swatch is dipped in distilled water having 0 hardness and TDS with pH=5.5-7.5.
 For ISO method pick up% should be 95-100% and for AATCC method pick up% should be 65%.

Testing procedure of color fastness to washing (ISO 105 C06) Test specimen:
Recipe:
Sodium Perborate 1gm/litre 
ECE Phosphate 4gm/litre

Sample Preparation:
Sample Fabric 10 cm*4 cm
Multi fiber fabric 10 cm*4 cm

Working Procedure:

Collecting the sample from bulk and then conditioning for 04.30 to 06 hours
↓
Making a specimen of 04 cm*10 cm in size.
↓
Sewing the specimen with multi-fibre fabric of same size at one corner.
↓
Making the solution of 4gm/litre ECE detergent & 1gm/litre sodium perborate, (If required SKFL use 0.15
gm/litre TAED).
↓
Putting the specimen with multi-fibre fabric into the solution in Rotawash m/c
Prog.: C2S Temp.: 600C / 400C Time: 30 min Still ball: 25pcs 
↓
 Rinsing with hot water respectively.
↓
Squeezing with cold water of the sample is done (Hand Wash).
↓
Then drying is done at a temperature in the air not exceeding 600C
↓
The stitching is then broken out except on one of the shorter end.
↓
Measuring the staining and color change by grey scale & make a test report.

Testing procedure of pilling test (ICI Pilling Box) (ISO 12945-1):

Test Specimen:
Sample Fabric: 5”×5”

Test procedure: Take four samples of size 125×125mm from the sample, taking care to avoid the
same warp and weft yarns when sampling. Take two samples along the front of the warp direction, the other
two samples are stacked along the latitudinal front, stitched 12mm from the edge, and the front side of the
sample is turned out, mounted on the polyurethane sample tube, using PVC tape. Both ends of the sample
were fixed on the polyurethane tube. Clean the pilling box, put 4 samples into the same pilling box, close the
lid, start the instrument, and rub the sample with the cork material. If there is no specific number of times, it
is recommended that the coarse woven fabric be turned over 7200rpm and the fine woven fabric turned over
14400rpm. After the test is completed, the test sample is taken out and compared with the original sample
for evaluation. More details about pilling test procedure would be provided in machine operation manual
and video when shipping the ICI Pilling Machine.

Testing procedure of water takes up percentage (ASTM D-570):

Test specimen: Make a sample at a dimension of 2cm in length×1cm in width.

Test procedure: For the water absorption test, the specimens are dried in an oven for a specified time
and temperature and then placed in a desiccator to cool. Immediately upon cooling the specimens are
weighed. The material is then emerged in water at agreed upon conditions, often 23°C for 24 hours or until
equilibrium. Specimens are removed, patted dry with a lint free cloth, and weighed.
 Results and discussion
Comparison on shade%: Below the table showed the dyeing recipe and the shade of each samples
dyed with ground water and sea water. The evaluation had been done under D65 light source in the light
box. Reactive dyes of cold brand, salt and soda used amount had been mentioned on the table. The amount
of salt and soda were calculated according to shade % those are practically used for the laboratory dyed
samples.
Recipe:
Ground water dyed samples Sea water dyed samples
Sola red- 1%
Sola yellow- 0.2%
Salt- 40 g/L
Soda- 8 g/L
Leveling agent- 1 g/L

Sola red- 2%
Sola yellow- 0.2%
Salt- 50 g/L
Soda- 10 g/L
Leveling age nt- 1 g/L

Reflectance percentage of dyed samples: Obtained reflectance percentages are plotted on graph for
sample 1, 2, 3, 4 (Figure 4) (Figure 5). Sample 1 and 3 showed reflectance for dark shade and sample 2 and
4 showed reflectance for medium shade of fabrics dyed with ground water and sea water respectively.
Considering dark shades sample 1 showed reflectance value 82.469% where the value increased about
1.77% in case of sea water (sample 3).Again for medium shades sample 2 showed reflectance value
81.494% where the value increased about 4.09% in case of sea water (sample 4).Reflectance values
increases for sea water dyed samples comparing with ground water dyed samples.

Figure 1 Graphical representation of reflectance% of 3% shade dyed samples with respectively ground water
and sea water.
Figure 2 Graphical representation of reflectance% of 2% shade dyed samples with respectively ground water
and sea water.

K/S value of Dyed Samples: Obtained K/S value is plotted on graph for sample 1, 2, 3 and 4 (see
Figure 2). Sample 2 and Sample 4 for medium shade and dark shade dyed with sea water shows lower k/s
value (0.017 and 0.018) than Sample 1 and Sample 3 (0.019 and 0.020) dyed with ground water.

Figure 3: Graphical representation of K/S value

Determination of colorfastness to rubbing: This test was designed to determine the degree of color
which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to specify test cloth for rubbing (which could
be dry and wet).

Figure 4 Graphical representation of k/s of 3% shade dyed samples respectively with ground and sea water.

Figure 5 Graphical representation of k/s of 2% shade dyed samples respectively with ground and sea water.

From the both samples, it was seen no staining at dry condition and at the wet condition, very slight
staining was seen for both samples. 100% cotton single jersey fabric of 140 GSM was dyed with reactive
dye. First sample was dyed using ground water showed the excellent fastness quality at the dry condition
and the second sample was dyed using sea water showed also excellent fastness at the dry condition. But at
the wet condition, first sample wherein ground water was used as liquor showed not excellent but good
fastness quality. Same as at the wet condition, second sample wherein sea water was used as liquor showed
good fastness quality.
 Table 1: Results of colorfastness to rubbing of the samples:
Sl. No Dry condition rubbing result Wet condition rubbing result
Ground water dyed Sea water dyed Ground water dyed Sea water dyed
samples. samples. samples. samples.
1 5 5 4/5 4/5
2 5 5 4/5 4/5
Average 5 5 4/5 4/5

Determination of color fastness to washing: From the Table 2 & 3, it was found that dyes stained
on the fibers of the multifibre fabric showed the rating was almost same for both fabrics. The staining on the
di-acetate, bleached cotton, polyester, acrylic for 100% cotton single jersey fabric dyed with reactive dye
with ground water and sea water both showed almost the same result. There was seen no staining on the
polyamide for the samples wherein used ground water as liquor. But the staining on the polyamide for the
samples wherein sea water used as liquor was slightly and fastness quality was moderate to good. For the
both liquors i.e. ground water and sea water, the staining on the wool was same; moderate to good in
fastness quality.

Table 2: Results of Color staining of 3% shade dyed samples respectively with ground and sea water:
Multifibre’s layer Sample 1 Sample 3
Di-acetate 4/5 4/5
Bleached cotton 4/5 4/5
Polyamide 5 4
Polyester 4/5 4/5
Acrylic 4/5 4/5
Wool 4 4

Table 3: Results of color staining of 2% shade dyed samples respectively with ground and sea water:
Multifibre layers Sample 2 Sample 4
Di-acetate 4 4/5
Bleached cotton 4/5 4/5
Polyamide 5 4/5
Polyester 4 4/5
Acrylic 4/5 4
Wool 4 4

Spectrophotometric evaluation: The Light sources D65 and D55 are used for the
spectrophotometric evaluation. The lightness (DL), Saturation (DC) and Tone (DH), CIE lab value for
references (Da and Db), Total color deviations (DE) are evaluated between the ground water dyed cotton
samples and sea water dyed samples.
Table 4: Spectrophotometric Evaluation of Dyed Samples
Standard Sample Illum./obs Lightness Saturation Tone CIE Lab CIE Lab Total color
(DL) (Dc) (DH) value for value for deviation
ref.Da ref.Db DE
D65 10 22.19 -24.95 -4.07 -24.82 -4.79 14.03
Sample 1 Sample 2 Deg
D55 10 21.19 -25.48 -4.28 -25.48 -5.77 13.89
Deg
 D65 10 14.06 -11.52 -6.95 -11.56 -6.88 19.46
Sample 3 Sample 4 Deg
D55 10 13.73 -11.75 -7.19 -11.75 -7.5 19.56
Deg
From the Table the spectrophotometric values under different light sources of CMC (Color matching
committee) it is seen that DE value is out of range i.e. more than 1. DE values recognize the color difference
between dyed fabric samples. It is observed by this experiment for same recipe dye absorption is less for sea
water dyed samples and a great shade difference observed.

Color fastness to wash: Table 5 shows that the change in color due to wash on reactive dyed ground
and sea water samples. The wash fastness rating in terms of ground water and sea water dyed samples 1and
sample 2 is 5”. The samples for 3 and 4 the ratings are 4/5”. It indicates that the results are almost same and
there is no significant difference for the samples.
Table 5: Color fastness to wash:
Samples WTP water dyed samples Samples Sea water dyed samples
Sample-1 5 Sample-2 5
Sample-3 4/5 Sample-4 4/5

Color fastness to rubbing: Table 6 shows the results of rubbing fastness of the samples no 1, 2, 3
and 4. In case of sample no. 1 for the dry and wet rubbing fastness rating is 4 and 3. For sample 2 dry and
wet rubbing fastness rating is 5 and 3/4. For sample 3 dry and wet rubbing fastness rating is 4/5 and 3 for
ground water dyed samples. On the other hand sea water dyed sample 4 rating is 5 and 4 respectively. The
rubbing fastness result may reveal that sea water dyed samples have significant result compared to ground
water dyed samples.
Table 6: Results of Rubbing Fastness
Ground water dyed samples Sea water dyed samples
Samples Dry Wet Samples Dry Wet
Sample-1 4 3 Sample-2 5 3/4
Sample-3 4/5 3 Sample-4 5 4

Color fastness to perspiration: Table 7 shows that the acidic and alkaline solutions for perspiration
test have the better results on both types of samples. According to the Grey scale the value 4 stands for the
good results, 3/4 stands for moderate results and 4/5 stands for the very good fastness to perspiration.
Table 7: Results of Perspiration Test
Samples WTP water dyed samples Samples Sea water dyed samples
Acid 4/5 Acid 4/5
Sample-1 Alkali 4/5 Sample-2 Alkali 4/5
Acid 3/4 Acid 3/4
Sample-3 Alkali 3/4 Sample-4 Alkali 3/4
 Determination of pilling resistance: Considering dark shade samples (Figure 6), it was seen that
the rating of pilling was 1 for both the ground water dyed sample and sea water dyed sample, which
indicates no pilling was formed. Again for medium shade samples (Figure 7) the rating was 2 for both the
ground water dyed sample and sea water dyed sample, which indicates slight but tolerable piling.

Figure 6 Results of pilling resistance of 3% shade dyed samples respectively ground and sea water.

Figure 7 Results of pilling resistance of 2% shade dyed samples respectively ground and sea water.

Determination of water takes up percentage: From Table 8 and Table 9, it was seen that water
take up % of ground water dyed sample was greater than sea water dyed sample because fabric resisted a
small volume of sea water cause of some particles of sea water couldn’t penetrate into the fabric.
Table 8: Results of water take up% of 3% shade dyed samples with respectively ground and sea
water:
Samples Dry weight Wet weight Water take up %
Sample 1 2gm 4.40gm 120%
Sample 3 2gm 4.19gm 109%

Table 9: Results of water take up% of 2% shade dyed samples with respectively ground and sea
water:
Samples Dry weight Wet weight Water take up %
Sample 2 1.5gm 3.30gm 120%%
Sample 4 1.5gm 3.05gm 103%
 Conclusion
In this research we had analyzed several properties of dyed samples where dyeing mediums were
ground water and sea water respectively. We have found a little bit of shade variation when fabric dyed with
ground water and sea water. Fabric dyed with ground water showed better shade percentage due to higher
penetration of dye molecules into fabric samples than sea water dyed samples. Sea water dyed samples
reflected more lights than ground water dyed samples i.e. they showed more reflectance. But K/S values
found more in case of ground water dyed samples. Color fastness to rubbing was almost same for the
samples dyed with ground water and sea water. No problem seen about color fastness to washing. The
fastness showed by sea water dyed samples almost same to the fastness showed by ground water dyed
samples. In case of dark shades both samples showed better resistance to pill and for medium shades both
samples showed a slight tendency to form pill for both samples. Samples dyed with ground water showed
better water take up percentage and more tendencies to swell than samples dyed with sea water.
 References
1. B. L. Pangarkar, P. V. Thorat, S. B Parjane, and R. M. Abhang,“Performance evaluation of
vacuum membrane distillation for desalination by using a flat sheet membrane,” Desalination and
Water Treatment, vol. 21, no. 1-3, pp. 328–334, 2010.
2. L. F. Greenlee, D. F Lawler, B. D. Freeman, B. Marrot, P. Moulin, “Reverse osmosis desalination:
water sources, technology, and today‟s challenges,” Water Research, vol. 43, no. 9, pp. 2317–
2348, 2009.
3. B. L. Pangarkar, M. G. Sane, M. Guddad, Reverse Osmosis and Membrane Distillation for
Desalination of Groundwater: A Review, ISRN
4. Materials Science Volume 2011, Article ID 523124, 9 pages doi:10.5402/2011/523124
5. A. B. M. Foisal, S. D. Saha, A.K.M. Shafayet Khan, Md. Abdullah al Noman (2016), Reuse Of
Dye House Waste Water By Reverse Osmosis Process, Journal of Science & Engineering
(SEUJSE) ISSN 1999-1630, volume 10, No. 2, p-70-74
6. A. Shaid, S. M. D. Osman, AMD Hannan, M. A. R. Bhuiyan (2013) Direct Reusing of Textile
Wastewater in Scouring-Bleaching of Cotton Goods Devoid of Any Treatment, International
Journal of Engineering Research and Development e-ISSN: 2278-067X, p-ISSN : 2278-800X,
Volume 5, Issue 8 (January 2013), 45-54.
7. P.G. Abir, A.B.M. Foisal (2015) Comparative Study On Etp Discharged Water And Wtp Treated
Ground Water Dyed Cotton Fabric Samples, 5(1) edn., Institutional Engineering and Technology
(IET): green global foundation.
8. M.A.A. Khan, A.K. Guah (2012) Characterization and optimization of coagulation of textile
effluent collected from gazipur, International Conference on Advances in Civil Engineering 2012
(ICACE 2012), 12–14 December 2012, CUET, and Chittagong, Bangladesh.
9. Restiani P. Water governance mapping report: textile industry water use in Bangladesh. 2016.
10. Sagris T, Abbott J. An analysis of industrial water use in Bangladesh with a focus on the leather
and textile industries. Washington DC, USA; 2015.
11. Danilenko A, Van den Berg C, Macheve B, et al. The IBNET water supply and sanitation blue
book 2014: The international benchmarking network for water and sanitation utilities databook.
The World Bank; 2014.
12. Dhaka’s groundwater drops 6m in 7 years. 2011.
13. Kandasamy R, Vignesh V, Kumar A, et al. Thermal radiation energy due to SWCNTs on MHD
nano fluid flow in the presence of seawater/ water: lie group transformation. Ain Shams
Engineering Journal. 2018;9(4):953–963.
14. Pinet PR. Invitation to Oceanography. 5th ed. Jones and Bartlett publishers. 1996.
15. Hogan C, Michael. Calcium. In: Jorgensen A, Cleveland C, editors. Encyclopedia of Earth. Some
evidence shows the potential for fairly regular ratios of elements maintained across surface oceans
in a phenomenon known as the Redfield Ratio. National Council for Science and the Environment.
2010.
16. Bone Q, Ryan KP. Osmolarity of osmium tetroxide and glutaraldehyde fixatives. The
Histochemical Journal. 1972;4 (4):331–333.