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ENGINE
Starting System - Testing & Troubleshooting - HR-V

TESTING
ENGINE START/STOP SWITCH TEST
Test

1. Dashboard switch Panel - Remove

2. Engine Start/Stop Switch - Test

1. Check the engine start/stop switch (A) according to the table.NOTE:

When an LED is located between terminals, check if the LED
lights by connecting power and ground to the LED.
Make sure the correct test lead (+ or -) is placed on the terminal.

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When checking for continuity across the diode, use the diode
setting (Diode symbol facing right →) on the digital volt/ohm
meter to check the diode bias.
Note this important operating characteristic; diode bias causes a
diode to fully conduct electricity in one direction (forward), while
not at all in the opposite direction (reverse).

2. If the result is not as specified, replace the engine start/stop switch .

3. All Removed Parts - Install

 1. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE CRANKS SLOWLY

Diagnostic procedure

1. Check for loose 12 volt battery terminals or connections.

2. 12 Volt Battery Test

3. Starter Overhaul

4. Check for excessive drag in the engine.

ENGINE CRANKS, BUT DOES NOT START

Diagnostic procedure

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1. How To Troubleshoot The CVT System (CVT)

2. Relay And Control Unit Locations

3. With keyless access system: Immobilizer System Symptom Troubleshooting Index Without keyless access
system Immobilizer System Status Log

4. Fuel Pressure Test

5. Fuel Line Inspection

6. Fuel Line Inspection

7. Throttle Body Cleaning

8. Engine Compression Inspection

9. Camshaft Timing Inspection

10. PCM Reset

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Also check for

• Fuel level in tank

• Weak or fouled spark plugs

ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK

Diagnostic procedure

1. Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting (With Keyless Access System) or Starter System Circuit
Troubleshooting (Without Keyless Access System)

Also check for

Seized engine

ENGINE IS HARD TO START

Diagnostic procedure

1. Fuel And Emissions Systems Symptom Troubleshooting - Engine Stalls or Fuel And Emissions Systems
Symptom Troubleshooting - Engine Will Not Start, Engine Starts But Stalls Immediately, Or Engine Is
Hard To Start

Also check for

Weak or fouled spark plugs

STARTING SYSTEM SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX

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Symptom Diagnostic procedure Also check for

Engine does not crank Check for starter system circuit troubleshooting - Refer Seized engine
to: Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting
(Without Keyless Access System), or Starter System
Circuit Troubleshooting (With Keyless Access
System).
Engine cranks, but does 1. Fuel level in tank
not start
Weak or fouled
Check for PGM-FI DTCs - Refer to: How to
spark plugs
Troubleshoot the Fuel and Emissions Systems,
or How to Troubleshoot the CVT System
(CVT) .

2.

Check the PGM-FI main relays .

3.

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With keyless access system: Check for keyless
access system symptom troubleshooting
information .

Without keyless access system: Check for

IMMOBI status and function .

4.

Check the fuel pressure .

5.

Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line .

6.

Check for a plugged fuel filter - Refer to: Fuel

Tank Unit Disassembly and Reassembly
(2WD), or Fuel Tank Unit Disassembly and
Reassembly (AWD) .

7.

Check the throttle body .

8.

Check for low engine compression .

9.

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Symptom Diagnostic procedure Also check for

Check the camshaft timing .

10.

Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI system to

cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

Engine is hard to start Do the symptom troubleshooting for Engine will not Weak or fouled spark
start, engine starts but stalls immediately, or engine is plugs
hard to start - Refer to: Fuel and Emissions Systems
Symptom Troubleshooting - Engine stalls, or Fuel
and Emissions Systems Symptom Troubleshooting -
Engine will not start, engine starts but stalls
immediately, or engine is hard to start .
Engine cranks slowly 1. Â

Check for loose 12 volt battery terminals or

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connections.

2.

Test the 12 volt battery for a low state of

charge .

3.

Check the starter for binding.

4.

Check for excessive drag in the engine.

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
STARTING SYSTEM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

Without Keyless Access System

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With Keyless Access System

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TROUBLESHOOTING
STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING (WITH KEYLESS ACCESS SYSTEM)

NOTE:

Air temperature must be between 59-100°F (15-38°C) during this procedure.

After the inspection, you must reset the PCM . Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel
injectors from operating.
The 12 volt battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

1. PGM-FI, CVT, and Keyless Access Control system DTC check.

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- 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC .

- 2. Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.

- 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle. If it does not communicate, go to the DLC
circuit troubleshooting .

- 4. Check for PGM-FI, CVT, and Keyless Access Control system DTCs with the HDS. If you fail to
enter the SYSTEM SELECTION MENU with the HDS, go to the keyless access system symptom
troubleshooting "Cannot select ON mode with keyless access and with the keyless remote touching the
engine start/stop switch" - Refer to: Keyless Access System Symptom Troubleshooting - Cannot select
ON mode with keyless access and with the keyless remote touching the engine start/stop switch

PGM-FI system

DTC Description Confirmed DTC Pending DTC Freeze Frame

   Â

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CVT system

DTC Description Confirmed DTC Pending DTC Freeze Frame

   Â

Keyless Access Control system

DTC Description DTC

 Â

Are any DTCs indicated?

YES

Go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.

NO

Go to step 2.

2. Starting system check 1.

- 1. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.

ALL INJECTORS STOP

- 2.

With the transmission in neutral (M/T), P or N (CVT), and with the clutch pedal (M/T) or the brake pedal
(CVT) pressed, turn the vehicle to the START mode to crank the engine.

Did the starter crank the engine?

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YES

Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI system to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

NO

Go to step 3.

3. Starting system check 2.

- 1. Turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode.

- 2. Check the 12 volt battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the 12 volt battery, the 12 volt
battery negative cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion.
Then try starting the engine again.

Did the starter crank the engine?

Starter cranks normally

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Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI system to
cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

Starter does not crank engine at all

If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 4.

Starter cranks abnormally

If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 6.

Starter overruns

If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T) or the torque converter ring gear
(CVT) when you release the button, replace the starter , or remove and disassemble it, and check for
the following:

Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch

Damaged flywheel ring gear (M/T) or torque converter ring gear (CVT)
4. Fuse check.

- 1. Check the following fuses.

Fuse Location
No. B6 (10 A) Under-hood fuse/relay box
No. C26 (7.5 A) Under-dash fuse/relay box

Are the fuses OK?

YES

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Reinstall the fuses, then go to step 5.

NO

Replace the fuse(s), and recheck. If the fuse(s) blows again, repair the short to ground on the No. B6 (10
A) and/or the No. C26 (7.5 A) fuse circuit(s).

5. Determine possible failure area (starter, starter circuit).

- 1. Make sure the transmission is in neutral (M/T), P or N (CVT).

- 2. Disconnect the following connector.

Starter S terminal 1P connector (A)

- 3. Connect terminals A and B with a jumper wire. cardiagn.com

Terminal A 12 volt battery positive terminal
Terminal B Starter S terminal 1P connector No. 1 (S)

Did the starter crank the engine?

1. YES

Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit:

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Check for an open in the wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and
starter cut relay 1 and/or starter cut relay 2.
Check for an open in the wire and connectors between starter cut relay 2 and the starter.
Check for an open or short in the wire and connectors between the PCM and clutch pedal
position switch A. (M/T)
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at clutch pedal position switch A and ground
G302. (M/T)
Check for an open or short in the wire and connectors between the PCM and the transmission
range switch. (CVT)
Check for an open or short in the wire and connectors between the keyless access control unit
and the transmission range switch. (CVT)
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body
ground G101. (CVT)
Check for an open in the wire and connectors between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the
brake pedal position switch.
Check for an open in the wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and

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the PCM.
Check for an open in the wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and
the keyless access control unit. (CVT)
Check for a faulty engine start/stop switch.
Check for faulty starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 .
Check for faulty clutch pedal position switch A. (M/T)
Check for faulty transmission range switch. (CVT)
Check for a faulty brake pedal position switch.

NO

Check for an open or short in the wire and connectors between the 12 volt battery and the starter.
Replace the starter , or remove and disassemble it, as necessary.

6. Starter test.

- 1. Connect the following equipment:

Ammeter, 0-400 A
Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 V)

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- 2. Do the STARTING TEST, check the cranking voltage and the current draw from the following
service limit table.

Voltage Current
8.5 V or more 330 A or less

Are the cranking voltage and the current draw within the service limits?

YES

Remove the starter , and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T) or the torque converter
ring gear (CVT) for damage. Replace any damaged parts.

NO

Replace the starter or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:

Drag in the starter armature

Shorted armature winding
Excessive drag in the engine
Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments
Excessively worn starter brushes
Open circuit in the starter brushes
Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear

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Faulty overrunning clutch

STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING (WITHOUT KEYLESS ACCESS SYSTEM)

NOTE:

Air temperature must be between 59-100°F (15-38°C) during this procedure.

After the inspection, you must reset the PCM . Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel
injectors from operating.
The 12 volt battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

1. Starting system check 1.

- 1. Connect the HDS to the DLC.

- 2. Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.

- 3. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.

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ALL INJECTORS STOP

- 4.

With the transmission in neutral (M/T), P or N (CVT), and with the clutch pedal (M/T) or the brake pedal
(CVT) pressed, turn the vehicle to the START mode to crank the engine.

Did the starter crank the engine?

YES

Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI system to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

NO

Go to step 2.

2. Starting system check 2.

- 1. Turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode.

- 2. Check the 12 volt battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the 12 volt battery, the 12 volt
battery negative cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion.
Then try starting the engine again.

Did the starter crank the engine?

Starter cranks normally

Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI system to
cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

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Starter does not crank engine at all

If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 3.

Starter cranks abnormally

If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 5.

Starter overruns

If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T) or the torque converter ring gear
(CVT) when you release the key, replace the starter , or remove and disassemble it, and check for the
following:

Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch

Damaged flywheel ring gear (M/T) or torque converter ring gear (CVT)
3. Fuse check.

- 1. Check the following fuse.

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Fuse Location
No. C16 (7.5 A) Under-dash fuse/relay box

Are the fuse OK?

YES

Reinstall the fuse, then go to step 4.

NO

Replace the fuse, and recheck. If the fuse blows again, repair the short to ground on the No. C16 (7.5 A)
fuse circuit.

4. Determine possible failure area (starter, starter circuit).

- 1. Make sure the transmission is in neutral (M/T), P or N (CVT).

- 2. Disconnect the following connector.

Starter S terminal 1P connector (A)

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- 3. Connect terminals A and B with a jumper wire.

Terminal A 12 volt battery positive terminal

Terminal B Starter S terminal 1P connector No. 1 (S)

Did the starter crank the engine?

1. YES

Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit:

Check for an open or short in the wire and connectors between the ignition switch and the
starter cut relay.
Check for an open or short in the wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the
starter.
Check for an open in the wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and clutch pedal
position switch A. (M/T)
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at clutch pedal position switch A and ground
G302. (M/T)
Check for an open in the wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the
transmission range switch. (CVT)
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and ground
G101. (CVT)
Check for faulty ignition switch .

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Check for faulty starter cut relay.

Check for faulty clutch pedal position switch A. (M/T)
Check for faulty transmission range switch. (CVT)

NO

Check for an open or short in the wire and connectors between the 12 volt battery and the starter.
Replace the starter , or remove and disassemble it, as necessary.

5. Starter test.

- 1. Connect the following equipment:

Ammeter, 0-400 A
Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 V)

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- 2. Do the STARTING TEST, check the cranking voltage and the current draw from the following
service limit table.

Voltage Current
8.5 V or more 330 A or less

Are the cranking voltage and the current draw within the service limits?

YES

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Remove the starter , and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T) or the torque converter
ring gear (CVT) for damage. Replace any damaged parts.

NO

Replace the starter or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:

Drag in the starter armature

Shorted armature winding
Excessive drag in the engine
Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments
Excessively worn starter brushes
Open circuit in the starter brushes
Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
Faulty overrunning clutch

WIRING DIAGRAM

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STARTING SYSTEM ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAM

Refer to appropriate wiring diagram.System Wiring Diagrams

COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX

STARTING SYSTEM COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX

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OVERHAUL
STARTER OVERHAUL
Exploded View

NOTE: Do not wipe off the special grease applied to the area of the starter marked with an asterisk (*) when
you disassemble or assemble it.

1. Starter - Exploded View

Exploded View

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Fig. 1: Starter Exploded View With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of HONDA, U.S.A., INC.

Disassembly

NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View if needed during this procedure.

1. End Cover - Remove

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2. Armature Housing - Remove

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3. Armature - Remove

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4. Armature - Inspect

1. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent
magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.

2. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it
with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 3, or recondition with
#500 or #600 sandpaper (B).

3. Check the commutator diameter with a digital caliper or dial type caliper. If
the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature.

Standard (New): 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1.106 in)

Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in)

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4. Measure the commutator (A) runout:

If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the
commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments.
If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the
armature.

Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) max.

Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)

5. Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the
mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature.

Standard (New): 0.40-0.50 mm (0.0157-0.0197 in)

Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)

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6. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the
commutator. If there is an open circuit between any of the segments, replace the
armature.

7. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the
armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the
armature is shorted. Replace the armature.

8. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the
armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If
there is continuity, replace the armature.

5. Brush Holder Assembly - Remove

1. Remove the terminal insulator (A)

2. Remove the push nut (B), the contact spring (C), the moving contact
(D), and the brush springs (E)

3. Remove the brush holder assembly (F).

6. Brush Holder - Test

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1. Check for continuity between the (+) brushes (A) and the (-) brushes (B). If
there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.

7. Brush - Inspect

1. Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit,

replace the brush holder assembly.

Standard (New): 11.1-11.5 mm (0.437-0.453 in)

Service Limit: 4.3 mm (0.169 in)

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8. Planetary Gear - Inspect

1. Check the planetary gears (A), the gear shaft (B), and the internal ring
gear (C). Replace them if they are worn or damaged.

9. Internal Gear - Remove

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10. 10.Switch Plunger, Switch Shaft, and Gear Plunger - Remove

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11. 11.Overrunning Clutch - Inspect

1. Hold the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) counterclockwise. Check that the
drive gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move smoothly,
replace the gear cover set

2. Hold the drive gear, turn the gear shaft clockwise. The gear shaft should turn
freely. If the gear shaft does not turn freely, replace the gear cover set

3. If the drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the
gear is not available separately.

Reassembly

NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View if needed during this procedure.

1. Switch Plunger, Switch Shaft, and Gear Plunger - Install

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NOTE: Always use a new switch shaft.

2. Internal Gear - Install

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3. Brush Holder Assembly - Install

1. Install the brush holder assembly (A)

2. Install the moving contact (B), the contact spring (C), and the push nut
(D).NOTE : Always use a new contact spring and push nut

3. Install the terminal insulator (E).

4. Armature - Install

1. Install the armature (A) in the brush holder (B)

2. Install the brushes into the brush holder.NOTE : To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of
#500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and
smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same
contour as the commutator

3. While squeezing a brush spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder, and push it
until it bottoms. Repeat this for the other three springs.

5. Armature Housing - Install

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6. End Cover - Install

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