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Mushrooms, Curative - Growing Medicinal Mushrooms at Home The Easy Way - The Simplest & Cheapest Way To Grow Medicinal Mushrooms at Home Even If You Have Never Grown Anything Before Now. (2021) PDF

This document introduces a guide for growing medicinal mushrooms at home simply and easily. It aims to eliminate the need for expensive equipment or becoming an expert by providing straightforward methods. The guide breaks growing into three sections - simplest, side fruiting, and full fruiting methods. It covers popular mushrooms like lions mane, reishi, turkey tail, oyster, shiitake and manure-loving mushrooms. The simplest method uses multiple small bags to spread risk of contamination and allows fast colonization for quick first flushes of mushrooms.

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Dr TRUTH

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100% found this document useful (5 votes)

1K views172 pages

Mushrooms, Curative - Growing Medicinal Mushrooms at Home The Easy Way - The Simplest & Cheapest Way To Grow Medicinal Mushrooms at Home Even If You Have Never Grown Anything Before Now. (2021) PDF

Uploaded by

Dr TRUTH

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

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Preface

Hello,
If you are looking to grow medicinal mushrooms at home and:
1) You want to feel 100% safe doing it no matter where you live
2) You want the easiest possible method at the lowest possible price
And:
1) You DON’T want to have to buy ‘a ton’ of lab equipment
2) You DON’T want to become an ‘expert’ mushroom cultivator
All while growing huge & beautiful mushrooms yet eliminating the
possibility for contamination then this is going to be the most important
thing you read all day. Here’s why…
My name is Oliver Carlin and I am the founder of Curative Mushrooms
where we provide education to all ‘mushroom lovers’ that are looking for
information on:
1) Growing mushrooms
2) The medicinal benefits of mushrooms
3) How to cook mushrooms
4) How to hunt mushrooms
I have written some very extensive article on the benefits of different
medicinal mushrooms and it turns out that the majority of my site visitors
want more information on growing medicinal mushrooms.
On some of my articles I talk about how to grow mushrooms and for some
of the most popular mushrooms on the market there are ‘completely done
for you’ mushroom grow kits that you can buy.
These mushrooms grow kits are perfect for hobbyist mushroom growers
who are not interested in spending thousands of dollars on expensive lab
equipment and turning half of their house into incubation and grow rooms.
While there are some super simple grow kits on the market for medicinal
mushrooms, there still happens to be some that you cannot get a ‘Pre-Done
For You’ grow kit in.
So, what does that mean?
This can be frustrating because some medicinal mushrooms have shown to
have some very powerful and amazing ‘life altering’ and depression
eliminating benefits.
This day in age people are becoming more and more aware of these benefits
and they want to experience them.
But when they go online to try and get some, they will find that there are no
simple and straight forward ways to go about it.
There are books available, however most of them go into great detail and
contain way more information then they want to get into.
Not to mention that 50% of the books available contain techniques that are
way outdated because they were written over 20 years ago.
Then if you try to search online it seems like everyone has their own way of
doing it.
Not to mention that many growing methods explained by some growers will
contradict other methods by other growers (that makes it even more
confusing).
And it seems like every video will leave out important pieces of
information, so you end up having to go through 20 different videos and
articles to still end up feeling more confused than when you got started.
It shouldn’t have to be this way.
There should be a simpler way to get the health benefits of medicinal
mushrooms without having to spend the next 100 hours reading and
watching videos and spending thousands of dollars on all the expensive
growing equipment that these videos and articles tell you that you need (but
really don’t’).
That’s why I decided to make this guide.
I wanted to provide a super simple method that is the next best thing to
purchasing a completely done for you grow kit and cut out all the other
‘BS’ that you don’t need.
This guide will provide you with the easiest method possible to grow
medicinal mushrooms at home from spores or liquid culture.
No fluff and no filler information to make it seem like a ‘bigger guide’ .
We give you the easiest possible method that there is so you can get your
mushrooms growing while only having to buy the ‘bare essentials’ needed.
This guide is mainly broken down into 3 methods:
1) The Simplest Growing Method
2) The Side Fruiting Method
3) The Full Fruiting Method
You do not need to read every section in this guide.
The best way to use this guide is to go to the Table of Contents and simply
pick the method type you want and then the mushroom that falls under that
method.
You should only need to actually read a couple of pages in total.
We have also broken down the Table of Contents to each subsection under
the growing method for each mushroom.
We did this because we know it can take weeks before moving on to
another step in the growing process and we didn’t want you to have to try to
remember which page you were on.
All you have to do is go back to the Table of Contents and click the exact
step you are on it that all you have to see.
This book is designed to be your ‘One Stop Shop’ for growing all your
medicinal mushrooms and the clickable Table of Contents makes navigating
this guide a breeze.
The reason we need to break down each section by the different mushroom
type is because every mushroom is a little bit different in the steps needed
to grow them.
They are all easy steps to follow but some may require different
temperatures to fruit in or a slightly different way to make them grow.
We do offer another guide that builds on the method here but will allow you
to produce 2x the results on your very first flush.
The only difference is in the fruiting method and it will require you to
purchase 2 additional items that you could get from Walmart.
The reason we decided to make the 2nd guide was because we know some
people will want the easiest possible way while other people will want to
maximize their effort to get more ‘bang for their buck’.
At the end we will discuss how to get some more advanced techniques if
you decide that is something that you want to do.
There is also a link at the bottom of every page to get back to the Table of
Contents in case you want to look for something else.
You will also find ‘breadcrumbs’ at the top right corner of every page so
you can easily identify what section and mushroom you are reading about.

Regards,

Oliver Carlin
AKA ‘The Mushroom Man’
Table of Contents
(Click Any Section Below)

Preface
I. Simplest Mushroom Growing Method
1. Manure Loving Mushrooms
1.1 Inoculation
1.2 Incubation
1.3 Fruiting
1.4 Harvesting
1.5 Additional Flushes

2. Reishi Mushroom
2.1 Inoculation
2.2 Incubation
2.3 Antler Fruiting
2.4 Conk Fruiting
2.5 Harvesting
2.6 Additional Flushes

3. Lions Mane Mushroom

3.1 Inoculation
3.2 Incubation
3.3 Fruiting
3.4 Harvesting
3.5 Additional Flushes

4. Turkey Tail Mushroom

4.1 Inoculation
4.2 Incubation
4.3 Fruiting
4.4 Harvesting
4.5 Additional Flushes

5. Oyster Mushroom
5.1 Inoculation
5.2 Incubation
5.3 Fruiting
5.4 Harvesting
5.5 Additional Flushes

6. Shiitake Mushroom
6.1 Inoculation
6.2 Incubation
6.3 Fruiting
6.4 Harvesting
6.5 Additional Flushes

II. Side Fruiting Mushrooms Method

1. Oyster Mushroom
1.1 Inoculation
1.2 Incubation
1.3 Fruiting
1.4 Harvesting
1.5 Flushes

2. Lions Mane Mushroom

2.1 Inoculation
2.2 Incubation
2.3 Fruiting
2.4 Harvesting
2.5 Additional Flushes

3. Reishi Mushroom
3.1 Inoculation
3.2 Incubation
3.3 Fruiting
3.4 Harvesting
3.5 Additional Flushes

4. Turkey Tail Mushroom

4.1 Inoculation
4.2 Incubation
4.3 Fruiting
4.4 Harvesting
4.5 Additional Flushes

III . Full Fruiting Mushrooms Method

1. Manure Loving Mushrooms
1.1 Inoculation
1.2 Incubation
1.3 Fruiting
1.4 Harvesting
1.5 Additional Flushes

2. Shiitake Mushrooms
2.1 Inoculation
2.2 Incubation
2.3 Fruiting
2.4 Harvesting
2.5 Additional Flushes

IV . Contamination
V. Get 2x the Results with The Simplest Growing Method
VI . Advanced Mushroom Growing Techniques
VII. Conclusion
VIII. Key Tips to Remember
IX . Acronyms
I. Simplest Mushroom Growing
Method
In this section we will cover how to grow some of the most popular types of
medicinal mushrooms using the ‘Simplest Mushroom Growing Method’.
The mushrooms that we will cover in this method are:
1) Manure Loving mushrooms
2) Reishi mushroom
3) Lions Mane mushroom
4) Turkey Tail mushroom
5) Oyster mushroom
6) Shiitake Mushroom
After doing a lot of research on the MANY different methods that people
use to grow the most popular types of mushrooms at home, I am proud to
say this is the simplest method BY FAR.
There really are hundreds of different ways that people grow mushrooms,
and it seems like most people are trying to make it seem harder than it is.
You will notice that in this section there will be multiple smaller 1-pound or
2-pound bags instead of using 1 large bag 5-pound bag.
The reason for this is we want to spread our risk of contamination out over
multiple bags since we are still learning how to grow mushrooms (This
book is designed for beginners).
In the ‘Side Fruiting’ section of this book we will use larger bags and be
fruiting from the side mostly but still will fruiting from the top and side on
some mushrooms.
Another advantage of using this method with the smaller bags is it will
require less equipment and allows us to do everything we need within our
grow bag.
Lastly, by using smaller grow bags it will allow the mushroom mycelium to
colonize the bag much faster so you can get your first flush of mushrooms
much quicker.
Now let’s jump into it…

1. Manure Loving Mushrooms

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 30 – 45 Days
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 150
to 300 grams wet or 15 – 30 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 3 to 5 Flushes (1 bag): 250 - 500 grams wet or 25
to 50 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 350 - 800 grams wet or 35 - 80 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 7 – 19 Days
Total Time: 21 – 47 days.

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

This method only involves buying 2 items and completing the following
3 steps:
1) Inject your spores into the grow bags.
2) Put your bags into a dark place for a couple weeks.
3) Cut the top off your bag and let the mushrooms grow.
While there are some other little details that we will cover in this process, in
general that is basically what we will be doing.
For this method you will need to purchase the following:
1) 1-Pound Manure Loving All in One Mushroom Grow Bags (x3)
2) Mushroom Spore Syringe
You will find the links to the grow bag we recommend in your members
area.

You will notice that some suppliers we recommend might not have 1-pound
grow bags listed on their site but will have 2.5 or 1.5-pound bags instead.
That is okay as well if you decide to go with them.
We have also added a button to contact them to request the bag size that we
recommend even if it is not listed on their site.
Wait…Why did you get 3 bags?
The reason you are getting 3 bags is to give you the best chance for
success. If one of your bags gets contaminated or does not product you still
have 2 more chances.
This method does have a 94% success rate however sometimes things
happen.
I recommend doing all 3 at the same time if this is your first time and
getting 1 bag each from a different supplier that we list. That way if one of
the suppliers sends you a contaminated bag you still have 2 from other
suppliers as well.
Due to the shipping cost you might be better off ordering 3 from each
supplier and then storing the ones you are not using in the freezer until you
are ready for them. Not mandatory but just an option.
Another reason we are using the 1-pound bags is they are small and will
fully colonize faster than a single large 5-Pound bag would.
You can also do the same strategy with the syringes by ordering 1 from
each of the different supplier we recommend and then using a different one
on each bag. Not mandatory but just an idea.
The reason there is such a big variation between 21 and 47 days to get your
first harvest is because every mushroom strain is different.
Whenever you grow mushrooms from spores (like we are teaching to do
here) you are creating a whole new strain of mushroom and no one can
predict how it will behave.
Some may be a really fast colonizer but a slow fruiter.
Some may be a really fast colonizer and a really fast fruiter.
Or they might be the complete opposite.
The only way to predict this is to clone another mushroom which is not
something we are going to teach here but you can learn in our advanced
course (or you could use liquid cultures instead of spores but sometimes
you can’t find liquid cultures for certain mushrooms).
Now, let us go over the detailed steps to follow…

1.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your spore syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your spore liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.

1.2 Incubation

Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
1.3 Fruiting

Tips:
1) Normally you will harvest the mushrooms right when the vale on the
underside of the mushroom caps starts to break away exposing the
gills (for mushrooms that have vales).
2) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
3) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
4) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
5) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
6) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
7) To allow more fresh air in you can cut a 3-inch slice on both side of
the bag right above the air fitler patch.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with only the top of it cut off
(unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Another option is to cut the top of the bag off (1 inch above the top of the
mushroom block) to allow more oxygen in which you could add a humidity
tent to keep the humidity high otherwise, they will dry out and stop
growing.
A humidity tent is just a clear trash bag that you poke a bunch of holes into
with a wooden skewer (1/2-inch holes a few inches apart all over the bag).
1) Place your mushroom block onto a big plate (option to add a little
water to the plate to help with humidity).
2) If you add water to the plate you will need to elevate the block by
setting it on something, so it does not sit inside the water.
3) Poke four 12-inch-long skewers into the 4 corners of the mushroom
block.
4) Drape your humidity tent over the skewers and fruiting block and
tuck it under the bottom of the plate.
5) Continue to spray daily inside the humidity tent (you see water
droplets on the side of the tent).
6) Remove the humidity tent 1 – 2 times a day (for 1 minute) to allow
fresh air inside.

Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly (too much)
and risk having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this
can cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting, try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water.
6) To poke your holes in the trash bag you can tape 3 of the wooden
skewers together and use that to poke holes evenly spaced about 3
inches apart from each other all over the bag.
1.4 Harvesting

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) You will want to harvest the mushrooms right when the vale on the
underside starts to break.
2) Twist and Pull them or cut them at the base with a sharp pair of
scissors or sharp knife.
1.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you can still expect to
have a couple more over the next month.
1) Continue to fan fresh air and mist water into the bags as discussed in
the fruiting steps.
Tips:
1) To encourage better flushing: submerge the entire bag/block in a tub
of distilled water (or filtered water) for 16 – 12 hours, drain
thoroughly, and then start the fruiting steps again.
2) You should get 3 to 5 more flushes before it stops producing.

Wrapping Up
So, there you have it! The simplest possible method to grow mushrooms at
home.
We basically did the 5 things:
1) Bought a spore syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the spores into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Cut the very top off the bag to allow fresh into the bag while
exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple weeks.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple weeks.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the spores and wait
a few weeks for it to fully colonize.
2.

Reishi Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 2 – 4 Months
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 100 -
300 grams wet or 10 - 30 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 2 to 3 Flushes (1 bag): 100 – 300 grams wet or 10
– 30 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 200 - 600 grams wet or 20 - 60 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 1 – 3 Months
Total Time: 2 – 4 Months

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

You will notice that some suppliers we recommend might not have 2-pound
grow bags listed on their site but will have 5-pound bags instead. That is
okay as well if you decide to go with them.
We have also added a button to contact them to request the bag size that we
recommend even if it is not listed on their site.
Wait…Why did we get the 2-pound bags?
The reason is the Reishi tends to need a lot more substrate to grow then
other species of mushroom because it is only 75% water compared to other
mushrooms that are 90% water.
Therefore, you may even want to use an even bigger mushroom
growing bag:
1) 5-Pound Wood Loving All in One Mushroom Grow Bag
The Reishi is a very slow fruiter so this mushroom will take the longest out
of all the other mushrooms in this guide.
You will also notice that the Reishi is listed in the top and side fruiting
methods. This is because you can do this one either way.
If you want to grow long antlers, then you will use this method and it will
be a little bit faster than if you want the ‘round looking’ conks in the side
fruiting method.
You will notice that the syringe you ordered was a liquid culture syringe.
This means there are small chunks of mycelium in the syringe instead of
spores.
That is actually better than using spores because the cultures are further
along in the growing process then spores.
2.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.

2.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80 F.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
2.3 Antler Fruiting

Antler Fruiting Steps:

We will be fruiting the mushrooms right in the bag…
1) Put a 2.5-inch slit horizontally across the top just above the air filter
patch.
2) Mist the inside of the bag through the slit (on the walls of the bag and
not directly on the fruiting block) a couple times with a spray bottle
filled with clean or distilled water.
3) Keep the bag between 75 – 85 F (a little warmer than room
temperature for most people).
4) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
5) Continue to mist inside the bag daily if the bag looks dry inside or
the mushrooms appear dry.
6) Continue this process for the next 1 -4 weeks and the small Reishi
pins will begin to grow longer into the antler stage.
7) You could continue to let them grow in the antler stage and they will
grow up to 10 inches long and contain all the same medicinal benefits
the same as rounds conks.
2.4 Conk Fruiting

Round Conk Fruiting Steps:

If you want to have the ends of the antlers to start to round off into conks,
then they will require more oxygen and light (which also increases their
chances of drying out).
1) Once the antlers reach 3 – 6 inches tall then cut off the entire top of
the bag just under the seal.
2) Mist the inside of the bag (on the walls of the bag and not directly on
the fruiting block) a couple times with a spray bottle filled with
filtered or distilled water.
3) Fold the very top of the bag shut a couple of times and use a piece of
tape or paper clip to keep it shut.
4) Keep the bag between 75 – 85 F (a little warmer than room
temperature for most people).
5) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
6) Open the bag 4 – 5 times a day and fan fresh air inside.
7) 2 of the times you open the bag for air you will also lightly mist with
a sprayer of distilled (or filtered) water (don’t over water).
8) Continue this process for the next 7 – 19 days until the mushrooms
are ready to harvest.
Basically, you are cutting the top off the bag to allow fresh air inside a few
times a day while keeping the humidity high (90%) for the next couple
weeks.

Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter patch wet to
prevent a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
6) To allow more fresh air in you can cut a 3-inch slice on both side of
the bag right above the air fitler patch.
7) (Optional) You could cut a 2 inch horizontal sice on the side of the
bag (about 1 inch from the bottom of the bag) to get a growth of
mushrooms from the side as well. If you do, be sure mist that area
when you mist the inside of the bag as well.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with only the top of it cut off
(unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Another option is to cut the top of the bag off (1 inch above the top of the
mushroom block) to allow more oxygen in which you could add a humidity
tent to keep the humidity high otherwise, they will dry out and stop
growing.
A humidity tent is just a clear trash bag that you poke a bunch of holes into
with a wooden skewer (1/2-inch holes a few inches apart all over the bag).
1) Place your mushroom block onto a big plate (option to add a little
water to the plate to help with humidity).
2) If you add water to the plate you will need to elevate the block by
setting it on something so it does not sit inside the water.
3) Poke four 12-inch-long skewers into the 4 corners of the mushroom
block.
4) Drape your humidity tent over the skewers and fruiting block and
tuck it under the bottom of the plate.
5) Continue to spray daily inside the humidity tent (you see water
droplets on the side of the tent).
6) Remove the humidity tent 1 – 2 times a day (for 1 minute) to allow
fresh air inside.

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) If you are growing them into conks you will want to harvest them
before they start to release their rusty colored dust looking spores.
2) If you don’t want to do conks you can harvest them any time after
they are 3-inches tall.
3) Cut them at the base with a sharp pair of scissors or sharp knife.
2.6 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you may be able to
get more flushes out of your block (most people only try to get one flush
though because other flushes don’t produce well and because reishi is such
a slow fruiter that it doesn’t seem worth it).
1) Be sure that you cut the reishi about 1-inch from the substrate
(leaving a tiny bit of reishi on the block will allow it to re-grow more
from there).
2) Continue to fan fresh air and mist water into the bags as discussed in
the fruiting steps.

Tips:
1) To encourage better flushing, you should store it in a dark place
below fruiting temperature (e.g. refrigerator) for 4 to 7 days.
2) Then submerge the entire bag in a tub of distilled water for 6 – 12
hours, drain thoroughly, and then start the fruiting steps again.
3) You could get 2 to 3 more flushes before it stops producing.
Wrapping Up
So, there you have it! Now you have your Reishi mushrooms!

We basically did the 6 things:

1) Bought a liquid culture syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the cultures into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Sliced a 2.5” slit into the very top off the bag to allow fresh into the
bag while exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple months.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple months.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the cultures and
wait a few weeks for it to fully colonize.
3.

Lions Mane Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 3 – 7 Weeks
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 100 -
300 grams wet or 10 - 30 grams dried
Estimated Yield of 3 – 6 Flushes (1 bag): 300 - 600 grams wet or 30 - 60
grams
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 400 – 900 grams wet or 40 – 90 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 2 – 6 Weeks
Total Time: 4 – 10 Weeks

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

3.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.
3.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80
degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
3.3 Fruiting

Fruiting Steps:
We will be fruiting the mushrooms right in the bag…
1) Cut the very top of the bag off with a pair of scissors to give it some
fresh air.
2) Mist the inside of the bag (on the walls of the bag and not directly on
the fruiting block) a couple times with a spray bottle filled with clean
or distilled water.
3) Fold the very top of the bag shut a couple of times and use a piece of
tape or paper clip to keep it shut.
4) Keep the bag between 65 – 75 degrees (normal room temperature for
most people).
5) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
6) Open the bag 4 – 5 times a day and fan fresh air inside.
7) 2 of the times you open the bag for air you will also lightly mist with
a sprayer of distilled (or filtered) water.
8) Continue this process for the next 7 – 19 days until the mushrooms
are ready to harvest.
Basically, you are cutting the top off the bag to allow fresh air inside a few
times a day while keeping the humidity high (90%) for the next couple
weeks.
Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
6) To allow more fresh air in you can cut a 3-inch slice on both side of
the bag right above the air fitler patch.
7) (Optional) You could cut a 1-inch by 1-inch X on the side of the bag
(as near to the bottom as possible) to get a growth of mushrooms from
the side as well. If you do, be sure mist that area when you mist the
inside of the bag as well.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with only the top of it cut off
(unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) You will want to harvest the Lions Mane mushrooms once their
spines start to become long (1/4 inch in length) and the mushroom
feels spongy when you lightly squeeze it.
2) If they overly mature, they will release a white dusty looking spores.
3) To harvest them simply grab the whole chunk of mushroom and
gently twist it at the base and it will separate from the block.
4) Or you could use a sharp knife and cut the mushroom at the base.
3.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you may be able to
get more flushes out of your block.
1) Continue to fan fresh air and mist water into the bags as discussed in
the fruiting steps.
Tips:
1) To encourage better flushing, you should store it in a dark place
below fruiting temperature (e.g. refrigerator) for 4 to 7 days.
2) Then submerge the entire bag in a tub of distilled water for 6 – 12
hours, drain thoroughly, and then start the fruiting steps again.
3) You could get 3 to 6 more flushes before it stops producing.

Wrapping Up
So, there you have it! Now you have your Lions Mane mushrooms!
We basically did the 5 things:
1) Bought a liquid culture syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the cultures into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Cut the very top off the bag to allow fresh into the bag while
exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple weeks.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple weeks.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the spores and wait
a few weeks for it to fully colonize.
4.

Turkey Tail Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 2 – 4 Months
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 100 -
300 grams wet or 10 - 30 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 2 to 3 Flushes (1 bag): 200 – 600 grams wet or 20
- 60 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 300 - 900 grams wet or 30 - 90 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 1 – 2 Months
Total Time: 2 – 3 Months

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

You will notice that some suppliers we recommend might not have 2-pound
grow bags listed on their site but will have 5-pound bags instead. That is
okay as well if you decide to go with them.
We have also added a button to contact them to request the bag size that we
recommend even if it is not listed on their site.
Wait…Why did we get the 2-pound bags?
The Turkey Tail tends to grow best with a minimum of 2-pounds in the
bags.
However, you may want to try the following mushroom growing bag:
1) 5-Pound Wood Loving All in One Mushroom Grow Bag
The Turkey Tail is a very slow fruiter so this mushroom will take the much
longer to fruit out of most other mushrooms in this guide.
You will also notice that the Turkey Tail is listed in the top and side fruiting
methods. This is because you can do this one either way.
You can also use this method to fruit from the top and also put tiny 1-inch
horizontal slices in the sides of the bag to fruit from there at the same time.
You will notice that the syringe you ordered was a liquid culture syringe.
This means there are small chunks of mycelium in the syringe instead of
spores.
That is actually better than using spores because the cultures are further
along in the growing process then spores.
4.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.

4.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80
degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
4.3 Fruiting

Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
6) To allow more fresh air in you can cut a 3-inch slice on both side of
the bag right above the air fitler patch.
7) (Optional) You could cut tiny 1-inch horizontal slices into the side of
the bag (about an inch from the bottom of the bag) to get a growth of
mushrooms from the side as well. If you do, be sure mist that area
when you mist the inside of the bag as well.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with only the top of it cut off
(unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Another option is to cut the bag 1-inch from the top of the block
(completely off) to allow more oxygen in which you could add a humidity
tent to keep the humidity high otherwise, they will dry out and stop
growing.
A humidity tent is just a clear trash bag that you poke a bunch of holes into
with a wooden skewer (1/2-inch holes a few inches apart all over the bag).
1) Place your Turkey Tail block onto a big plate (option to add a little
water to the plate to help with humidity).
2) If you add water to the plate you will need to elevate the block by
setting it on something so it does not sit inside the water.
3) Poke four 12-inch-long skewers into the 4 corners of the Turkey Tail
block.
4) Drape your humidity tent over the skewers and fruiting block and
tuck it under the bottom of the plate.
5) Continue to spray daily inside the humidity tent (you see water
droplets on the side of the tent).
6) Remove the humidity tent 1 – 2 times a day (for 1 minute) to allow
fresh air inside.

Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly (too much)
and risk having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this
can cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting, try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water.
6) If you don’t use the humidity tent, then you need to make sure you
are spraying your block regularly to keep it moist, so they don’t dry
out.
7) To poke your holes in the trash bag you can tape 3 of the wooden
skewers together and use that to poke holes evenly spaced about 3
inches apart from each other all over the bag.
4.4 Harvesting

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) Cut harvest them by twisting at the base or cut them with a sharp pair
of scissors or sharp knife.
2) You will harvest the Turkey Tail any time during the fruiting process
as long as they are in good health and have a white underside. They
will normally grow a little bit larger than the diameter of a lemon.
4.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Wrapping Up
So, there you have it! Now you have your Turkey Tail mushrooms!
We basically did the 5 things:
1) Bought a liquid culture syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the cultures into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Cut the very top off the bag to allow fresh into the bag while
exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple weeks.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple weeks.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the spores and wait
a few weeks for it to fully colonize.
5.

Oyster Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 3 – 7 Weeks
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 100 -
300 grams wet or 10 - 30 grams dried
Estimated Yield 3 to 4 Flushes (1 bag): 200 - 600 grams wet or 20 - 60
grams
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 300 – 900 grams wet or 30 – 90 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 2 – 6 Weeks
Total Time: 4 – 10 Weeks

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

You will notice that some suppliers we recommend might not have 2-pound
grow bags listed on their site but will have 2.5 or 1.5-pound bags instead.
That is okay as well if you decide to go with them.
We have also added a button to contact them to request the bag size that we
recommend even if it is not listed on their site.
Wait…Why did we get the 2-pound bag (x2)?
The reason is the Oyster mushroom tends to fruit really well on this block
for this method.
You will also notice that the Oyster mushroom is listed in the top and side
fruiting methods. This is because you can do this one either way.
This means that you could put a small 1-inch by 1-inch X on the sides of
the bag (near the bottom as much as possible) to fruit them from there at the
same time you are fruiting from the top (if you want).
You will notice that the syringe you ordered was a liquid culture syringe.
This means there are small chunks of mycelium in the syringe instead of
spores.
That is actually better than using spores because the cultures are further
along in the growing process then spores.
Oyster mushrooms will be a little different in that there are multiple strains
of Oyster mushrooms.
The reason this is important is because each strain will require different
fruiting temperatures:
1) Cold Weather Strains (45 – 65F): Pearl, Blue, King.
2) Warm Weather Strains (64 – 86F): Phoenix, Golden, Pink.
The Oyster mushroom is one of the easiest mushrooms to grow which
makes it perfect for beginners.
Not only that though it is a delicious choice edible mushroom.
Oyster mushrooms are actually the easiest of all other mushrooms to
cultivate so you should really enjoy the process with this one!
5.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.

5.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80
degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature ( probably won’t need this ) or a
seedling heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid
hot spots from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
5.3 Fruiting

Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
6) To allow more fresh air in you can cut a 3-inch slice on both side of
the bag right above the air fitler patch.
7) (Optional) You could cut a 1-inch by 1-inch X on the side of the bag
(as near to the bottom as possible) to get a growth of mushrooms from
the side as well. If you do, be sure mist that area when you mist the
inside of the bag as well.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with only the top of it cut off
(unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Another option is to cut the bag 1-inch from the top of the block
(completely off) to allow more oxygen in which you could add a humidity
tent to keep the humidity high otherwise, they will dry out and stop
growing.
A humidity tent is just a clear trash bag that you poke a bunch of holes into
with a wooden skewer (1/2-inch holes a few inches apart all over the bag).
1) Place your Oyster mushroom block onto a big plate (option to add a
little water to the plate to help with humidity).
2) If you add water to the plate you will need to elevate the block by
setting it on something, so it does not sit inside the water.
3) Poke four 12-inch-long skewers into the 4 corners of the Oyster
mushroom block.
4) Drape your humidity tent over the skewers and fruiting block and
tuck it under the bottom of the plate.
5) Continue to spray daily inside the humidity tent (you see water
droplets on the side of the tent).
6) Remove the humidity tent 1 – 2 times a day (for 1 minute) to allow
fresh air inside.

Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly (too much)
and risk having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this
can cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting, try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water.
6) If you don’t use the humidity tent, then you need to make sure you
are spraying your block regularly to keep it moist, so they don’t dry
out.
7) To poke your holes in the trash bag you can tape 3 of the wooden
skewers together and use that to poke holes evenly spaced about 3
inches apart from each other all over the bag.
5.4 Harvesting

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) Usually, you want to harvest them just before the cap starts to flatten
out.
2) Harvest them by twisting at the base or cut them with a sharp pair of
scissors or sharp knife.

5.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:
Congratulations on having your first harvest however you may be able to
get more flushes out of your block.
1) Continue to fan fresh air and mist water into the bags as discussed in
the fruiting steps.
Tips:
1) To encourage better flushing, you should store it in a dark place
below fruiting temperature (e.g. refrigerator) for 4 to 7 days.
2) Then submerge the entire bag in a tub of distilled water for 6 – 12
hours, drain thoroughly, and then start the fruiting steps again.
3) You could get 3 to 6 more flushes before it stops producing.

Wrapping Up
So, there you have it! Now you have your Oyster mushrooms!
We basically did the 5 things:
1) Bought a liquid culture syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the cultures into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Cut the very top off the bag to allow fresh into the bag while
exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple weeks.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple weeks.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the spores and wait
a few weeks for it to fully colonize.

Shiitake Mushroom
Total Cost: $60
Total Time: 2 – 4 Months
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 100 -
300 grams wet or 10 - 30 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 2 to 3 Flushes (1 bag): 100 – 300 grams wet or 10
– 30 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 200 - 600 grams wet or 20 - 60 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 7 – 19 Days
Total Time: 21 – 47 Days

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.
6.2 Incubation

Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
4) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
5) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
6) To allow more fresh air in you can cut a 3-inch slice on both side of
the bag right above the air fitler patch.
7) (Optional) You could cut a 1-inch by 1-inch X on the sides of the
bag (as near to the bottom as possible) to get a growth of mushrooms
from the side as well. If you do, be sure mist that area when you mist
the inside of the bag as well.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with only the top of it cut off
(unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

*Note: If you plan on using the humidity tent then you may want to look
into fruiting the Shiitake using our ‘Full Fruiting’ method. You can find it
in the Table of Contents.
6.4 Harvesting

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) Normally you will harvest the mushrooms when the edges of the cap
are still curled down.
2) Twist and Pull them or cut them at the base with a sharp pair of
scissors or sharp knife.
6.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you may be able to
get more flushes out of your block (most people only get 1 flush of
shiitake).
1) Store it in a dark place below fruiting temperature (e.g. refrigerator)
for 4 to 7 days.
2) Submerge the entire bag in a tub of distilled water (or filtered water)
for 6 – 12 hours, drain thoroughly, and then start the fruiting steps
again.
3) You could get 2 to 3 more flushes before it stops producing (most
people don’t get more than 1 flush).
4) Continue to fan fresh air and mist water into the bags as discussed in
the fruiting steps.
Wrapping Up
So, there you have it! Now you have your Shiitake mushrooms!
We basically did the 6 things:
1) Bought a liquid culture syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the cultures into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Cut the very top off the bag to allow fresh into the bag while
exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple months.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple months.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the cultures and
wait a few weeks for it to fully colonize.
II. Side Fruiting Mushrooms
Method
In this section we will cover they types of mushrooms that we will fruit
from the side of the bag.
That basically means that instead of fruiting inside the bag like we did with
the ‘Top Fruiters’ we will cut a slit in the side of the bag on the substrate
block and the mushrooms will grow out of the slit.
You could also do simultaneous ‘Top Fruiting’ and ‘Side Fruiting’ meaning
you could follow the steps from Section I and combine them with this
section.
For this method we will talk about the following mushrooms:
1) Oyster mushrooms
2) Lion’s mane mushrooms
3) Reishi mushrooms
4) Turkey Tail mushrooms
You will notice that the big difference in this section is that we are using the
big 5-Pound fruiting blocks instead of the 1- or 2-pound fruiting blocks that
we used in the first section.
The reason for this is I believe if you are using the smaller bags it just
makes more sense to fruit from the top since the sides are so small. You
could however fruit from the top and still make a couple cuts in the sides of
the bags as I described in the previous section.
Since you will be fruiting bigger bags in this section that means you will
end up having bigger mushrooms during all your flushes and you might end
up having more flushes total.
Therefore, you will still end up getting as many mushrooms as if you
fruited 2 smaller 2-pound bags.
There is no major advantage of doing it one way or the other except you
might like the way the larger mushrooms come out looking with the bigger
bags.
Also, for certain mushrooms listed in this section you can also fruit from
the top and the sides and we will describe that in the directions on fruiting
it.
One big disadvantage of “Side Fruiting’ is the mushrooms will be at higher
risk of drying out and you may need to create a humidity tent (covered in
the instructions of each mushroom).

Oyster Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 3 – 7 Weeks
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 300 -
500 grams wet or 30 - 50 grams dried
Estimated Yield 3 to 4 Flushes (1 bag): 600 - 900 grams wet or 60 - 90
grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 900 – 1,400 grams wet or 90 – 140 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 2 – 6 Weeks
Total Time: 4 – 10 Weeks

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

This method only involves buying 2 items and completing the following
3 steps:
1) Inject your liquid cultures into the grow bags.
2) Put your bags into a dark place for a couple weeks.
3) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the sides of the block.
While there are some other little details that we will cover in this process, in
general that is basically what we will be doing.
For this method you will need to purchase the following:
1) 5-Pound Wood Loving All in One Mushroom Grow Bags
2) Mushroom Spore Syringe
You will find the links to the grow bag we recommend in your members
area.
You will notice that some suppliers we recommend might not have 5-pound
grow bags listed on their site but will have 3-pound bags instead. That is
okay as well if you decide to go with them.
We have also added a button to contact them to request the bag size that we
recommend even if it is not listed on their site.
Wait…Why did we get the 5-pound grow bag?
The 5-pound bag seem to be the right amount of substrate to allow you to
get a flush out of one side and then flip it over and get a flush out of the
other side.
Oyster mushrooms will be a little different in that there are multiple strains
of Oyster mushrooms.
The reason this is important is because each strain will require different
fruiting temperatures:
3) Cold Weather Strains (45 – 65F): Pearl, Blue, King.
4) Warm Weather Strains (64 – 86F): Phoenix, Golden, Pink.
The Oyster mushroom is one of the easiest mushrooms to grow which
makes it perfect for beginners. Not only that though it is a delicious choice
edible mushroom.
1.1 Inoculation
Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.

Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.
1.2 Incubation
Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80
degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.

1.3 Fruiting
Fruiting Steps:
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the bag (the side will face up towards the
ceiling that you put the X into).
2) Add about 2 – 3 teaspoons of water daily under the flaps of the X
you cut in step 1 (you can use a spoon to pour it in).
3) In about 1 – 2 weeks you will start to see the tiny oyster mushrooms
pinning up.
4) Now you can start to mist it with water (instead of pouring with a
spoon like in step 2) daily to keep it moist.
5) Keep the bag in the temperature range covered early based on
whether you are fruiting a cold or warm weather strain.
6) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
7) Continue this process for the next 1 - 2 weeks and you will notice
they will about double in size each day.

Tips:
1) To encourage fruiting you could scrape the surface of the area under
the X you cut with a fork and then soak the bag X side down in water
for 6 hours.
Humidity Tent (Optional)
* You would keep the original bag on the block with the X cut facing
upward (unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

The humidity tent will help keep the humidity high and keep our block from
drying out so our mushrooms can grow.
A humidity tent is just a clear trash bag that you poke a bunch of holes into
with a wooden skewer (1/2-inch holes a few inches apart all over the bag).
1) Place your mushroom block onto a big plate.
2) You could add water to the plate to help with the humidity but then
you will need to place you block on something to slightly elevate it
above the water on the plate.
3) Poke four 12-inch-long skewers into the 4 corners of the Shiitake
block.
4) Drape your humidity tent over the skewers and fruiting block and
tuck it under the bottom of the plate.
5) Continue to spray daily inside the humidity tent (you see water
droplets on the side of the tent).
6) Open the humidity tent 4 – 5 times a day and fan fresh air inside.

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) You will want to harvest the Oyster mushrooms right before the caps
start to completely flatten out (if they are completely flat or turning
upward then you are too late).
2) To harvest them simply grab the whole chunk of mushroom and
gently twist it at the base and it will separate from the block.
3) Or you could use a sharp knife and cut the mushroom at the base.
1.5 Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you can still expect to
have a couple more over the next month.
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the opposite side of the bag.
2) Soak the bag with the new X cut side facing down in water for 6
hours.
3) Dry the bag off with a towel.
4) Then continue to do the steps you just did in the normal fruiting
steps.
5) After harvesting from the other side, you can try to soak it again on
the other side to get another flush from that side.
6) Continue to repeat until it stops producing mushrooms (could take 2
– 3 weeks before another flush begins to grow so be patient).
7) If you want to get more flushes out of it after your fruit the other
side, you will want to store it in the refrigerator for 4 to 7 days to give
it a rest an then soak the entire block in water for 6 hours.
8) Then repeat the fruiting process on the first side you cut the X into
(grow out of the same X as before).
Tips:
1) To help encourage fruiting you can scrape the surface of the area
under the X you cut with a fork before soaking it in water.
2) If trying to do a 3rd or more flushes you may want to cover the X that
you are not growing out of with some tape, so no oxygen gets into it
and start fruiting by accident.
3) Another option is to fruit both X sides at the same time by standing
the bag straight up length wise so both X’s are exposed to air.
4) Another option is to make an X cut in one of the other sides that have
not been cut yet and cover the other cuts with tape.
Wrapping Up

Wrapping Up:
So, there you have it! Now you have your Oyster mushrooms!

We basically did the 5 things:

Lions Mane Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 3 – 7 Weeks
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 300 -
500 grams wet or 30 - 50 grams dried
Estimated Yield of 3 – 6 Flushes (1 bag): 300 - 600 grams wet or 30 - 60
grams
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 600 – 1,200 grams wet or 60 – 120 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 2 – 6 Weeks
Total Time: 4 – 10 Weeks

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

2.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag).
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.

2.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80
degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
2.3 Fruiting

Fruiting Steps:
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the bag (the side will face up towards the
ceiling that you put the X into).
2) Add about 2 – 3 teaspoons of water daily under the flaps of the X
you cut in step 1 (you can use a spoon to pour it in).
3) I about 1 – 2 weeks you will start to see the tiny lion’s mane
mushrooms pinning up.
4) Now you can start to mist it with water (instead of pouring with a
spoon like in step 2) daily to keep it moist.
5) Keep the bag in the temperature range between 65 – 75 F.
6) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
7) Continue this process for the next 1 - 2 weeks and you will notice
they will about double in size each day.

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Tips:
1) During the 12-hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) To poke your holes in the trash bag you can tape 3 of the wooden
skewers together and use that to poke holes evenly spaced about 3
inches apart from each other all over the bag.
2.4 Harvesting

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you can still expect to
have a couple more over the next month.
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the opposite side of the bag.
2) Soak the bag with the new X cut side facing down in water for 6
hours.
3) Dry the bag off with a towel.
4) Then continue to do the steps you just did in the normal fruiting
steps.
5) After harvesting from the other side, you can try to soak it again on
the other side to get another flush from that side.
6) Continue to repeat until it stops producing mushrooms (could take 2
– 3 weeks before another flush begins to grow so be patient).
7) If you want to get more flushes out of it after your fruit the other
side, you will want to store it in the refrigerator for 4 to 7 days to give
it a rest an then soak the entire block in water for 6 hours.
8) Then repeat the fruiting process on the first side you cut the X into
(grow out of the same X as before).
Tips:
1) To help encourage fruiting you can scrape the surface of the area
under the X you cut with a fork before soaking it in water.
2) If trying to do a 3rd or more flushes you may want to cover the X that
you are not growing out of with some tape, so no oxygen gets into it
and start fruiting by accident.
3) Another option is to fruit bot X sides at the same time by standing
the straight up length wise so both X’s are exposed to air.
4) Another option is to make an X cut in one of the other sides that have
not been cut yet and cover the other cuts with tape.
Wrapping Up

Wrapping Up:
So, there you have it! Now you have your Lions Mane mushrooms!

We basically did the 5 things:

Reishi Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 2 – 4 Months
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 300 -
500 grams wet or 30 - 50 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 2 to 3 Flushes (1 bag): 300 - 500 grams wet or 30
– 50 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 600 – 1,000 grams wet or 60 - 100 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 1 – 3 Months
Total Time: 2 – 4 Months

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

You will notice that some suppliers we recommend might not have 5-pound
grow bags listed on their site but will have 3-pound bags instead. That is
okay as well if you decide to go with them.
We have also added a button to contact them to request the bag size that we
recommend even if it is not listed on their site.
Wait…Why did we get the 5-pound bag?
The 5-pound bags seem to be the right amount of substrate to allow you to
get a flush out of one side and then flip it over and get a flush out of the
other side.
Reishi mushrooms are more of a warm weather mushroom and prefer
fruiting temperatures of between 75 – 85 F.
If you have growing Oyster mushrooms before then you technically will
follow the same exact steps and you should already know how to grow
Reishi.
Reishi is a medicinal mushroom that is best dried and made into teas.
Growing Reishi in the ‘Side Fruiting’ method will create round conks. If
you want antlers, then refer to our ‘Top Fruiting’ method by going back to
the Table of Contents.
Or you could use this bag to fruit from the top and the side to get the best of
both worlds!
3.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.
3.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80
degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
3.3 Fruiting

Fruiting Steps:
At this point you need to decide if you want to fruit out of the top of the
bag, the top & the side at the same time or only fruit the side.
If you want to fruit top or the from the top and the side, then combine this
method with the Reishi growing steps in the first method in this guide.
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the bag.
2) Add about 2 – 3 teaspoons of water daily under the flaps of the X
you cut in step 1 (you can use a spoon to pour it in).
3) I about 1 – 2 weeks you will start to see the tiny reishi mushrooms
pinning up.
4) Now you can start to mist it with water (instead of pouring with a
spoon like in step 2) daily to keep it moist.
5) Keep the bag in the temperature range between 65 – 75 F.
6) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
7) Continue this process for the next 1 – 2 months until the reach the
desired size.
Tips:
1) To encourage fruiting you could scrape the surface of the area under
the X you cut with a fork and then soak the bag X side down in water
for 6 hours.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with the X cut facing
upward (unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) You will want to harvest them before they start to release their rusty
colored dust looking spores.
2) Cut them at the base (just above the block) with a sharp pair of
scissors or sharp knife.
3.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you can still expect to
have a couple more over the next month.
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the opposite side of the bag.
2) Soak the bag with the new X cut side facing down in water for 6
hours.
3) Dry the bag off with a towel.
4) Then continue to do the steps you just did in the normal fruiting
steps.
5) After harvesting from the other side, you can try to soak it again on
the other side to get another flush from that side.
6) Continue to repeat until it stops producing mushrooms (could take 2
– 3 weeks before another flush begins to grow so be patient).
7) If you want to get more flushes out of it after your fruit the other
side, you will want to store it in the refrigerator for 4 to 7 days to give
it a rest and then soak the entire block in water for 6 hours.
8) Then repeat the fruiting process on the first side you cut the X into
(grow out of the same X as before).
Tips:
1) To help encourage fruiting you can scrape the surface of the area
under the X you cut with a fork before soaking it in water.
2) If trying to do a 3rd or more flushes you may want to cover the X that
you are not growing out of with some tape so no oxygen gets into it
and start fruiting by accident.
3) Another option is to fruit bot X sides at the same time by standing
the straight up length wise so both X’s are exposed to air.
4) Another option is to make an X cut in one of the other sides that have
not been cut yet and cover the other cuts with tape.
Wrapping Up

Wrapping Up:
So, there you have it! Now you have your Reishi mushrooms!

We basically did the 5 things:

Turkey Tail Mushroom

Total Cost: $60

Total Time: 2 – 4 Months
Amount of Effort: Very little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 300 -
500 grams wet or 30 - 50 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 2 to 3 Flushes (1 bag): 300 – 700 grams wet or 30
- 70 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 600 – 1,200 grams wet or 60 - 120 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 1 – 2 Months
Total Time: 2 – 3 Months

Growing Steps & Equipment Needed

You will notice that some suppliers we recommend might not have 5-pound
grow bags listed on their site but will have 3-pound bags instead. That is
okay as well if you decide to go with them.
We have also added a button to contact them to request the bag size that we
recommend even if it is not listed on their site.
Wait…Why did we get the 5-pound bags?
The 5-pound bags seem to be the right amount of substrate to allow you to
get a flush out of one side and then flip it over and get a flush out of the
other side.
Turkey Tail mushrooms are more of a warm weather mushroom and prefer
fruiting temperatures of between 65 – 75 F.
If you have growing Oyster mushrooms before then you technically will
follow the same exact steps and you should already know how to grow
Turkey Tail.
Some people like to put 5 small 2 inch horizontal slits into the (evenly
spaced apart) on both sides and the front of the bag to fruit it that way but
we will only be using 1 big X on what side at a time.
Turkey Tail is a medicinal mushroom that is best dried and made into teas.

4.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your liquid culture syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your culture liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.
4.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 70 - 80
degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
4.3 Fruiting

Fruiting Steps:
At this point you need to decide if you want to fruit out of the top of the
bag, the top & the side at the same time or only fruit the side.
If you want to fruit top or the from the top and the side, then combine this
method with the Turkey Tail growing steps in the first method in this guide.
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the bag.
2) Add about 2 – 3 teaspoons of water daily under the flaps of the X
you cut in step 1 (you can use a spoon to pour it in).
3) I about 1 – 2 weeks you will start to see the tiny Turkey Tail
mushrooms pinning up.
4) Now you can start to mist it with water (instead of pouring with a
spoon like in step 2) daily to keep it moist.
5) Keep the bag in the temperature range between 65 – 75 F.
6) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
7) Continue this process for the next 1 – 2 months until the reach the
desired size.

* Another option is to put 5 small 2 inch horizontal slits (evenly spaced

apart) on both sides and the front of the bag. Either option is fine.
Tips:
1) To encourage fruiting you could scrape the surface of the area under
the X you cut with a fork and then soak the bag X side down in water
for 6 hours.
Humidity Tent (Optional)

* You would keep the original bag on the block with the X cut facing
upward (unlike this picture where the original bag is removed completely) *

Humidity Tent (Optional):

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) Harvest them by twisting at the base or cut them with a sharp pair of
scissors or sharp knife.
2) You will harvest the Turkey Tail any time during the fruiting process
as long as they are in good health and have a white underside. They
will normally grow a little bit larger than the diameter of a lemon.
4.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you can still expect to
have a couple more over the next month.
1) Cut a 2.5-inch X into the opposite side of the bag.
2) Soak the bag with the new X cut side facing down in water for 6
hours.
3) Dry the bag off with a towel.
4) Then continue to do the steps you just did in the normal fruiting
steps.
5) After harvesting from the other side, you can try to soak it again on
the other side to get another flush from that side.
6) Continue to repeat until it stops producing mushrooms (could take 2
– 3 weeks before another flush begins to grow so be patient).
7) If you want to get more flushes out of it after your fruit the other
side, you will want to store it in the refrigerator for 4 to 7 days to give
it a rest and then soak the entire block in water for 6 hours.
8) Then repeat the fruiting process on the first side you cut the X into
(grow out of the same X as before).
Tips:
1) To help encourage fruiting you can scrape the surface of the area
under the X you cut with a fork before soaking it in water.
2) If trying to do a 3rd or more flushes you may want to cover the X that
you are not growing out of with some tape, so no oxygen gets into it
and start fruiting by accident.
3) Another option is to fruit bot X sides at the same time by standing
the straight up length wise so both X’s are exposed to air.
4) Another option is to make an X cut in one of the other sides that have
not been cut yet and cover the other cuts with tape.

store it in the
* If using the 5 slit method (talked about previously) then just start with
refrigerator for 4 to 7 days to give it a rest and then soak the entire block in
water for 6 hours. Then it will be able to start it’s next flush.
Wrapping Up

Wrapping Up:
So, there you have it! Now you have your Turkey Tail mushrooms!

We basically did the 5 things:

1) Bought a liquid culture syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the cultures into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Sliced a 2.5” slit X into the bag to allow fresh into the bag while
exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
few weeks.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple months.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the cultures and
wait a few weeks for it to fully colonize.
III. Full Fruiting Mushrooms
Method
In this section we will cover the types of mushrooms that we will fruit by
removing the bag completely.
For this method we will talk about the following mushrooms:
1) Manure Loving Mushrooms
2) Shiitake Mushrooms
The biggest reason for using this method is to create a large quantity of
mushrooms on a first flush for mushrooms that don’t like to cluster together
very much.
We are basically giving these mushrooms the extra needed surface they
desire to max out the first flush.
The biggest disadvantage to this method is because the block doesn’t have
the plastic bag to keep the moisture in, the block will dry out very quickly
which could prevent your mushrooms from growing.
Therefore, during this method you will require the use of a humidity tent to
keep moisture in and will require you to purchase 2 additional items for less
than $10:
1) 12-inch wooden skewers (x4)
2) 1 clear large trash bag.
If you also purchased our 2x mushroom guide you can use the ‘Shotgun
Fruiting Chamber’ that is mentioned in there as instead of the humidity tent.
This method can be used with any of the sized of growing bags:
1) 1-Pound Growing Bags (Manure Loving Mushrooms Only)
2) 2-Pound Growing Bags
3) 5-Pound Growing Bags
1.

Manure Loving Mushrooms

Total Cost: $65

Total Time: 30 – 45 Days
Amount of Effort: Little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 150
to 500 grams wet or 15 – 50 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 3 to 5 Flushes (1 bag): 250 - 500 grams wet or 25
to 50 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 350 – 1,000 grams wet or 35 - 100 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 7 – 19 Days
Total Time: 21 – 47 days.
Growing Steps & Equipment Needed
This method only involves buying 2 items and completing the following
3 steps:
1) Inject your spores into the grow bags.
2) Put your bags into a dark place for a couple weeks.
3) Remove the growing bag and let the mushrooms grow.
While there are some other little details that we will cover in this process, in
general that is basically what we will be doing.
For this method you will need to purchase the following:
1) 1-Pound Manure Loving Mushroom Grow Bags (x3)
Or
1) 2-Pound Manure Loving Mushroom Grow Bags (x2)
Or
1) 5-Pound Manure Loving Mushroom Grow Bag
And
2) Mushroom Spore Syringe
And
3) 12-Inch Wooden Skewers (x4)
And
4) 1 Clear Large Trash Bag
Now, let us go over the detailed steps to follow…
1.1 Inoculation

Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your spore syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your spore liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag).
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.

1.2 Incubation

Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is 50%
colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the colonization
process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.
1.3 Fruiting

Fruiting Steps:
We will be fruiting these by removing the bag…
1) Remove the entire plastic growing bag your block is in.
2) Place you mushroom block inside the humidity tent using the
direction in the next set of steps.
3) Keep the bag between 70 – 75 F (normal room temperature for most
people).
4) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
5) Open the humidity tent 4 – 5 times a day and fan fresh air inside.
6) 2 of the times you open the bag for air you will also lightly mist with
a sprayer of distilled (or filtered) water.
7) Continue this process for the next 7 – 19 days until the mushrooms
are ready to harvest.
Basically, you are removing the bag, putting the block inside a humidity
tent, and misting it to allow fresh air inside a few times a day while keeping
the humidity high (90%) for the next couple weeks.

Tips:
1) Normally you will harvest the mushrooms right when the vale on the
underside of the mushroom caps starts to break away exposing the
gills (for mushrooms that have vales).
2) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
3) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
4) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
5) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
6) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
7) To help with the humidity you can put some water in a container
inside the humidity tent.

Humidity Tent
Humidity Tent:
The humidity tent will help keep the humidity high and keep our block from
drying out so our mushrooms can grow.
A humidity tent is just a clear trash bag that you poke a bunch of holes into
with a wooden skewer (1/2-inch holes a few inches apart all over the bag).
1) Place your mushroom block onto a big plate.
2) You could add water to the plate to help with the humidity but then
you will need to place you block on something to slightly elevate it
above the water on the plate.
3) Poke four 12-inch-long skewers into the 4 corners of the Shiitake
block.
4) Drape your humidity tent over the skewers and fruiting block and
tuck it under the bottom of the plate.
5) Continue to spray daily inside the humidity tent (you see water
droplets on the side of the tent).
6) Open the humidity tent 4 – 5 times a day and fan fresh air inside.
Tips:
1) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
2) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
3) To poke your holes in the trash bag you can tape 3 of the wooden
skewers together and use that to poke holes evenly spaced about 3
inches apart from each other all over the bag.
1.4 Harvesting

Harvesting:
Congratulations on your harvest!
1) You will want to harvest the mushrooms right when the vale on the
underside starts to break.
2) Twist and pull them or cut them at the base with a sharp pair of
scissors or sharp knife.
1.5 Additional Flushes

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you may be able to
get more flushes out of your block.
1) Continue to fan fresh air and mist water into the bags as discussed in
the fruiting steps.
Tips:
1) Store it in a dark place below fruiting temperature (e.g. refrigerator)
for 4 to 7 days.
2) Submerge the entire bag in a tub of distilled water (or filtered water)
for 6 – 12 hours, drain thoroughly, and then start the fruiting steps
again.
3) You could get 3 to 6 more flushes before it stops producing.

Wrapping Up
So, there you have it!
We basically did the 5 things:
1) Bought a spore syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the spores into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Removed the bag and put it in a humidity tent to allow fresh into the
bag while exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple weeks.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit, then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple weeks.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the spores and wait
a few weeks for it to fully colonize.

Shiitake Mushrooms
Total Cost: $65
Total Time: 30 – 45 Days
Amount of Effort: Little
Estimated Yield (Amount of mushrooms) On First Flush (1 bag): 150
to 500 grams wet or 15 – 50 grams dried
Estimated Yield of the 3 to 5 Flushes (1 bag): 250 - 500 grams wet or 25
to 50 grams dried
Total Estimated Yield (1 bag): 350 – 1,000 grams wet or 35 - 100 grams
dried

How Long Will It Take?

Incubation Phase: 14 – 28 Days
Fruiting Phase: 7 – 19 Days
Total Time: 21 – 47 days.
Growing Steps & Equipment Needed
This method only involves buying 2 items and completing the following
3 steps:
1) Inject your spores into the grow bags.
2) Put your bags into a dark place for a couple weeks.
3) Remove the growing bag and let the mushrooms grow.
While there are some other little details that we will cover in this process, in
general that is basically what we will be doing.
For this method you will need to purchase the following:
1) 5-Pound Wood Loving Mushroom Grow Bag
And
2) Mushroom Culture Syringe
And
3) 12-Inch Wooden Skewers (x4)
And
4) 1 Clear Large Trash Bag
Now, let us go over the detailed steps to follow…

2.1 Inoculation
Inoculation Steps:
1) Turn off the A/C to your house (if possible) for 30 minutes before
going on.
2) Wash your hand for 30 seconds with soap and warm water or put-on
rubber gloves.
3) Rub a lot of hand sanitizer on your hands or gloves (should be really
wet) and then let air dry.
4) Rub hand sanitizer (or rubbing alcohol (70%)) on the bag where we
will be sticking the needle (we will inject the needle into the middle
of the dark colored substrate in the bag. If the bag has a self-healing
injection port, then use that spot).
5) Shake your spore syringe vigorously for 1 minute.
6) Put the needle tip onto the spore syringe (avoid touching the metal tip
as much as possible).
7) Put the needle into fire from your lighter until it turns a glowing
red/orange color.
8) Inject the needle into the spot you rubbed the hand sanitizer.
9) Squirt 2 ml (2 numbers on the syringe) of your spore liquid into the
bag (each syringe can inoculate 5 bags).
10) Cover the hole with a piece of tape (or the sticker on the
bag). Not needing if there is a self-healing injection port.
Basically, all you did here was take your spore syringe and inject it into the
mushroom grow bag.

2.2 Incubation

Incubation Steps:
1) Put your bag in a dark place (e.g. cardboard box on top shelf of
closet, shoe box on top of refrigerator, kitchen cabinet, dark room,
dresser drawer, etc.) where the temperature is between 75-80 degrees.
2) Do not seal the box completely so it can breathe.
3) Don’t stack the bags on top of each other but put them side by side
and make sure the filter on the bag is not blocked.
4) Leave it in there for 14 – 28 days until the bag is fully colonized.
Tips:
1) You can use a space heater from Walmart if you need help keeping
the area the right temperature (probably won’t need this ) or a seedling
heating mat (be sure to put a blanket over the mat to avoid hot spots
from directly touching the bag).
2) Normally if you put the bags into a normal brown box and close the
top with a small piece of tape and put the box in the closet (top shelf)
where the A/C doesn’t blow it will be the right temperature.
3) You will know when the bag is fully colonized by patting it on its
side. If it feels solid it is ready but if it still feels loose then it needs to
sit longer.
4) You may want to write the date you inoculated it on the bag with a
marker, so you remember the date.
5) It could take up to 6 weeks for the bag to fully colonize.
6) If using a bag with substrate that is separated inside, then once it is
50% colonized you can mix the bag up to help speed up the
colonization process (not mandatory).
Basically, all we did here was put our bag into a dark place and let it sit for
a few weeks.

2.3 Fruiting
Fruiting Steps:
We will be fruiting these by removing the bag…
1) Remove the entire plastic growing bag your block is in.
2) Place you mushroom block inside the humidity tent using the
direction in the next set of steps.
3) Keep the bag between 55 – 70 degrees (a little bit cooler than normal
room temperature for most people).
4) It needs to have 12 hours of light & 12 hours of darkness just like the
normal daylight hours (needs a minimum of 8 hours of light a day).
5) Open the humidity tent 4 – 5 times a day and fan fresh air inside.
6) 2 of the times you open the bag for air you will also lightly mist with
a sprayer of distilled (or filtered) water.
7) Continue this process for the next 7 – 19 days until the mushrooms
are ready to harvest.
Basically, you are removing the bag, putting the block inside a humidity
tent, and misting it to allow fresh air inside a few times a day while keeping
the humidity high (90%) for the next couple weeks.
Tips:
1) Normally you will harvest the mushrooms when the edges of the cap
are still curled down.
2) During the 12 hours of light do not put it in direct sunlight but you
can put it in indirect sunlight near a window.
3) When misting the bag be sure to not over water. If there too much
water, you need to drain it out or you risk getting another type of
fungus growing in the bag.
4) When misting, you don’t want to spray the block directly and risk
having standing water pooling on the top of the block as this can
cause another mold to start growing.
5) When misting the bag be sure not to get the bag filter wet to prevent
a fungus from growing on the filter as well.
6) When misting try to do 5 to 6 light sprays of water and fan the bag
really well for 1 minute to give it fresh air.
7) To help with the humidity you can put some water in a container
inside the humidity tent.

More Flushes Steps:

Congratulations on having your first harvest however you may be able to
get more flushes out of your block.
1) Store it in a dark place below fruiting temperature (e.g. refrigerator)
for 4 to 7 days.
2) Submerge the entire bag in a tub of distilled water (or filtered water)
for 6 – 12 hours, drain thoroughly, and then start the fruiting steps
again.
3) You could get 2 to 3 more flushes before it stops producing (most
people don’t get more than 1 flush).
4) Put it back into your humidity tent and continue to fan fresh air and
mist water into the bags as discussed in the fruiting steps.

Wrapping Up
So, there you have it!
We basically did the 5 things:
1) Bought a culture syringe and some ‘ready to use’ grow bags.
2) Injected the cultures into the bag.
3) Place the bag in a dark area for a couple weeks.
4) Removed the bag and put it in a humidity tent to allow fresh into the
bag while exposing it to light.
5) Continued to water it and expose it to fresh air every day for the next
couple weeks.
How easy is that?
If you were to buy a pre-inoculated ‘done for you’ grow kit then basically
the first 3 steps would have been done for you but you still would have had
to continue to water it and give it fresh air every day for a couple weeks.
The main difference is you have to inject your bag with the spores and wait
a few weeks for it to fully colonize.

IV. Contamination
If you start to see a green mold, red mold or white cobweb (fluffy) like
mold growing on your block then your block is contaminated and must be
thrown away immediately.
If you want to give it time to see if the mycelium will still overcome, then
you need to store it separate from your other bags or you will risk the
contamination spreading.
If it gets too much mold, then you need to throw it out.

V. Get 2x the Results on The

First Flush
Now, you did get some pretty good yields from this method however there
is still room for some improvement with not too much extra work if you are
interested.
It would require you to purchase 2 additional items that you could get from
your local Walmart for about $27 and that’s pretty much it.
Then we would modify our fruiting steps a little and that’s it.
It would only require about 10 minutes of extra work on your part. It will
allow you to get 2x times the results on the very first flush.
This is a good option but really is the same thing as using a humidity tent
for the full flushing mushrooms.
The main advantage is you can put a lot of small bags inside one big tote
which would be hard to do with humidity tents.
To learn more about this then check out our other guide that expands on this
method.
VI. Advanced Mushroom
Growing Techniques
We know some people will want to go further then what was is listed in this
guide.
This guide served the purpose to get somebody to have their first flush of
mushrooms while spending the least amount of money and having to do the
least amount of work.
There are definitely many more techniques that we would love to show
you, such as growing mushrooms using the following methods :
1) PF Tek
2) Mono tub
3) Straw
4) Coffee grounds
5) Sawdust
6) Logs
7) Manure
8) Coco Coir & Vermiculite
9) Outdoor garden bed
These are some of the different substrates that we could show you how to
make in our Master Class that is coming up.
The biggest thing for growing mushrooms when you are preparing your
own substrates is preventing contamination.
Other competing spores and fungi will try to colonize your substrate, so it is
important to kill them before you introduce the mushroom you want to
grow.
Then you also have to be able to continue to be sterile all the way up until
your block is fully colonized.
Therefore, the master class will go over many sterilization techniques,
such as:
1) Using a laminar flow hood
2) Creating a cheap laminar flow hood
3) Proper sterilization methods
4) How to use a pressure cooker
5) Proper cleaning of your utility room, incubation room and fruiting
room.

We will also cover how to how to:

1) Create Agar plate
2) Create Agar liquid
3) Do culture transfers
4) Working with spores
5) Cloning mushrooms
6) Crating your own spore prints
7) Proper storage of cultures and spore prints
We will also go into the different growing conditions needed by the
mushrooms that are able to be cultivated indoors and outdoors.
This master class will also walk you through and show you videos of
everything we talked about in this guide as well.
Currently the master class has not been created yet and I will be creating it
live with my first class coming up in the future.
If you are interested, then be sure to keep an eye out for an email that I will
send once it is ready to launch.
VII. Conclusion

We have reached the end of this guide.

That means that you now officially know and understand how to get your
first growth of medicinal mushrooms going in the simplest and easiest way
possible.
The cool thing is these grow bags and the methods explained in this
guide will work with several types of medicinal mushrooms, to include:
1) Manure Loving mushrooms
2) Oyster mushroom
3) Lions mane mushroom
4) Shiitake mushrooms
5) Reishi mushrooms
6) Turkey Tail
Some of these mushrooms are a little more challenging than others. The
easiest possible one for beginners would be the oyster mushrooms.
And it literally is the next best thing to getting a grow kit sent to you.
The only difference between a ‘done for you’ grow kit and our method is
they have already injected the grow bag and waited a month for it to fully
colonize with white mycelium.
When they send you a grow kit, they are just sending you a fully colonized
mushroom block in a bag or plastic container.
If you are unable to get a grow kit (or want a cheaper way to grow your
own) then this will literally be your next best method.
Even if you got a ‘done for you’ grow kit you could follow the instructions
in our guide that gives you 3x the results to maximize your yields and get a
better ‘bang for your buck’.
Legal Disclaimer:
This guide is intended to present education about how to grow legal
medicinal mushrooms for a variety of therapeutic and wellness effects.
Psilocybin remains illegal under federal law in the United States and also
illegal in many countries around the world. We do not advocate for,
endorse, or intend for this guide to be used to violate federal law or any
other laws.
VIII. Key Tips to Remember
1) Mushroom need to be fruited in a high humidity environment (RH
90% - 100%).
2) When your mushrooms or incubating they need to be stored in an
area that is normally a warmer part of your house (e.g. top shelf of a
closet where the A/C doesn’t blow, top of refrigerator, etc.).
3) Don’t let your mushrooms dry out during the fruiting phase (there
should always be water droplets on the side of the humidity bag).
4) Don’t over water or you risk water pooling up (on the fruiting block
or elsewhere) in which another type of mold could grow and
contaminate everything.
5) Be as sterile as possible during the whole process to prevent any
other fungal spores getting into your substrate (where a mask, flame
sterilize the needle, wipe the bag with disinfectant before injecting,
disinfect your hands, turn off the A/C 1 hour prior to injecting the
bag).
6) Be sure that your bag is fully colonized before bringing out to
starting fruiting (should be completely solid and white).
IX. Acronyms
Colonize: When the mycelium is growing over the substrate in the grow
bag.
Cultures: Cultures are basically chunks of mushroom or white mycelium
that will grow into more mycelium.
Flushes: Every time a new growth of mushrooms comes out is a new
flush.
Fruiting Body: The actual body of the mushroom that you will harvest to
consume.
Fruiting: When your mushrooms start to grow.
Harvest: When you pick your mushrooms to eat or store.
Incubation: When the mycelium is trying to completely colonize the
entire substrate in the grow bag.
Mycelium: The white looking moldy material that is really the mushroom
before it becomes a fruiting body.
Pinning: When the mushroom fruiting body initially starts to emerge from
the mycelium fruiting block.
RH: Relative Humidity
Spores: The very first stage of a mushroom life cycle that will begin to
grow into mycelium.
Substrate: The soil like mixture that is in the grow bag that your
mushrooms will grow in and consume as food.
Yield: The amount of mushrooms that your grow per harvest.

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