BANARAS SILK
INTRODUCTION
Banaras, presently known as Varanasi (Varanasi word was derived from the two
tributaries of the holy River Ganges named Varuna and Assi), is the spiritual
capital of India. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world,
with settlements dating back to the 11th century BC. This sacred Hindu city is in
Uttar Pradesh, situated at the banks of Ganges, around 320 km southeast to
Lucknow. It is also known as ‘Kashi’ (Kashi word was derived from the ‘Kasha’
which means the brightness) among the people. Sarnath, which is situated just 10
km away from Varanasi, was the place where Buddha preached his first sermon
after enlightenment. Knowledge, philosophy, culture, devotion to Gods, Indian arts
and crafts have all flourished here for centuries. Varanasi is believed to be the
birthplace of Parsvanath, the twenty-third Tirthankar and hence is also a
pilgrimage place for Jains. Varanasi has always been a symbol of Hindu
renaissance.
ORIGIN
There's no discussing the way that Banaras has been an imperative place for
weaving since time immemorial. Nevertheless, it was Mughal Emperor Akbar who
gave the weaving business in Banaras, a jolt. The ruler who was known for his
affection for the better things in life – Persian wine, his jewel crusted sword and
other things likewise adored zari work (weaving in unadulterated gold). He had
huge numbers of his spouses and those from his array of mistresses draped in rich
silk sarees with Zari work. Furthermore, this is the thing that we today prominently
allude to as Banarasi silk, while additionally adding silver threadwork to the blend.
GLORIOUS PAST
Banaras is renowned for its financial and religious significance everywhere
throughout the world. The city is similarly essential as a ‘Brocade Weaving
Center’ throughout the nation. The weaving business, which prospered amid the
Vedic time frame and was at its best in the mughal period, clarifies how the
demonstration of weaving was a vital part of the life of the Banaras individuals.
Regardless of whether it is the religious movement or procuring of business for the
common people, the weaving action outperformed every single other occupation.
From the authenticity point of view, the material business has discovered place
from apparatus Vedic writing to post independent India.
Since the Rig Vedic occasions, we find out about a few sorts of materials among
which makes sense of the fabric of gold (the Hiranya) as a recognized kind, the
god in their shining magnificence wear it, as they drive in their stately chariots.
The Hiranya material has been normally interpreted as the equal for the present day
zari work or the kimkhab (brocades). We additionally discover particular reference
to the weaving in the Vedic writing.
Varanasi, a religious city and a focal point of weaving thrived as the capital of the
Kasi Kingdom in the days when Buddha was yet alive. In Sutras9, it is specified
that when Prince Siddharth turn into a bonze, he took off sumptuous silk garments
of cultured territory of Kasi and wore rather earth-cikiyred robe to be specific
kasayani vastrani. Garments allowed to bonze in those days were made of
materials woven of waste silk strands from wild silkworms, what was called 'bark
fiber' fabrics at that point, and those of hemp. There is additionally a story in Sutra
of a man who moves toward becoming to grasp Buddhist confidence by making
offering to Buddha of materials joined with gold strings. In "Jataka", the Kasi
Kingdom is made reference to as an essential focus of assembling cotton and in
addition those of silk in the fifth century or sixth century B. C. Cotton materials of
Kasi were stunningly woven, smooth, blanched totally white, and their filaments
were fine and delicate. Custom says that when Buddha passed on, his remaining
parts cleansed with ointment were wrapped with spic and span cotton fabrics of
Kasi. (Material craft of India, Kokyo Hatanaka Collection Page No.361). Richard
Lanmoy in his book "Banaras seen from inside" has made reference to that the
Buddhist jatakas (third – second B.C) are a mine of data about existence in old
India. It has been made reference to that Banaras was a cotton developing locale
and celebrated for creating string of a fine and delicate surface. The city was
similarly reputed for its silk and fleece. The recorded proof portrays that the
Banaras weaving industry achieved its top in the Mughal period because of the
support of invested ruler like Akbar. From the Akbar time frame onwards, we start
to get a continuous record of the zari work and brocades through the Mughal and
Rajasthani painting. It is noteworthy that in the sixteenth century the old structures
unexpectedly arrived at an end; we find from the contemporary compositions that
customized themes were acquainted though altered with the Indian taste. More
accentuation was given to flower plans. For instance, Persian themes because of
the impact and significance of Persian masters in the court of ruler Akbar; Ghias
Naqshaband being the best Persian ace among them to the regal atelier of Akbar.
Be that as it may, the Mughal period depiction about the Banaras silk industry isn't
finished and henceforth makes an uncertainty about the silk business of the city.
With respect to the Banaras zari and brocades, the first run through all around
recorded portrayal was made by a few British explorers to Banaras amid British
guideline in India. George viscount Valentia, in his movement account outfitted
some fascinating data about Banaras materials in mid nineteenth century. Valentia
held a Durbar in Banaras; some material merchants additionally went to the Durbar
and showed some great precedents of zari and brocades. Valentia comments that
the brocades indicated close examples and were very costly, with the goal that they
were worn just on imperative events. Valentia appropriately saw that the thriving
of the Banaras individuals primarily refreshed on its brocades and zari make and
exchange as these materials were well known things of fare to Europe.
PRESENT STATUS
The Banarasi silk industry has been confronting a significant rivalry from the
machine-made industrial facilities who deliver Sarees at a substantially quicker
rate bringing about colossal misfortunes for the laborers who make these high-
quality Sarees. In any case, in 2009, the Weaver Association of Uttar Pradesh
anchored a copyright of sorts for the Banaras brocades and in addition saris.
The sari business in the city that has the silk custom going back to at any rate the
sixteenth century has been struck up by two government arrangements in less than
a year – demonetization in November and the presentation in July of the Goods
and Services Tax. The Industry is now at the urge to die.
Further, For clients who can manage the cost of them, the complicatedly weaved
Banarsi saris are an esteemed piece of the North Indian lady. Saris delivered in this
area can offer over Rs 2 lakh. The least expensive, beginning from Rs 300, are
made of manufactured fiber on power looms. The most costly are made of silk, and
consolidate silver or gold string. A sari that offers for Rs 5,000 sari can grasp a
handloom weaver three-four days to make. The Banarsi sari exchange is esteemed
at about Rs 5,000 crore for each year and it gives work to more than five lakh
individuals in Varanasi locale alone. The exchange got a shock in November, when
Prime Minister Narendra Modi chose to demonetize Rs 500 and Rs 1,000 money
notes medium-term. Since most exchanges were in real money, weaving in
Varanasi went to a close end. The presentation of the Goods and Services Tax on
July 1, subsuming a few different demands already charged by states and Center,
has made the odds of recuperation look extremely distressing to some in the
exchange. GST directions expect endeavors to record three returns for every month
alongside all archives on deals, buys and charge imposed and paid – a monstrous
test for conventional private ventures that obtain material, crude and completed,
using a loan and which have so far disturbed little with formal solicitations and
receipts. Indeed, even wholesalers, who purchase Banarsi saris from weavers and
convey them to shops the nation over, have been left struggling. Till July, they
didn't charge any duty whatsoever from clients, engrossing the cost themselves.
Their choice to pass on the same impose to clients has prompted increment in costs
of saris by as much as 20%.In June, when the administration chose to exact GST
on materials, Varanasi's weavers and brokers went on an eight-day strike to
challenge the move. At the point when no alleviation appeared to be prospective,
they struck work again. They are particularly irritated that Prime Minister
Narendra Modi, who speaks to the Varanasi body electorate in Parliament, has
declined to meet individuals from the affiliation.
In a quick aftermath, providers of crude material, for example, strands and zari –
gold or silver string – quit giving weavers material using a credit card and began
demanding prompt installment. Be that as it may, weavers just did not have the
surplus pay to make moment installments on all the material they require.
Likewise, weavers were jumbled by the shifting rates of GST on various materials.
Banarasi Saree industry is going through a lean phase because of several reasons.
The trade related people are facing this problem of shrinking demand and need a
remedy to this situation. The industry has faced this situation two times before.
This time the situation is different. This time the demand is going down not
because of some external non-related even like it has been the scenario during their
previous downfalls but this time it is caused because of the very core ingredients of
the industry. The factors include the product absolution, customer life style
changes and price sensitivity of the market due to availability of cheap substitutes
etc.
Weaver migrations and their social issues are outside the marketing preview but
they have also played their part in this depleting situation of the industry.
Many marketing challenges were extracted by the second survey of the research.
Their remedies were thought over and finally verified through third survey of the
study. This data was analyzed by using factor analysis method through which
fewer number of variables were deduced for the art. Further these deduced
variableswere ranked in order of preference as per the respondents and their
analyzed result.
As far as Genuine Banarasi Saree Industry is concerned eight such variables were
deduced. Each of the variables had its own importance and its rank states the
feasibility of the remedies mentioned under its head as per the respondents view.
Amongst all the statements there was one statement that was eliminated and is not
kept under any variable head as its result came out to be below 0.5. Only the
statements above 0.5 were considered relevant by the study.
Furthermore, The artisans and others working in the above handicrafts sectors are
being hit by a multitude of problems. While the market for their hand made
products shrinks in relative terms due to the onslaught of cheap, imported
alternatives in the wake of a globalized economy, inadequate attention to their
situation by the govt., civil society organizations and others has left them on the
brink of survival, to face hunger, unemployment, gross underemployment, poor
living and working conditions, consequent poor health and exploitation. Lack of
workers organisations in some areas and ineffective ones in other areas further
accentuate the problem. This study attempts to highlight the state of the Banarsi
Saree Sector, working conditions of artisans with special focus on women. It also
seeks to look at possible future directions for improvement of the situation of
artisans in these sectors in Lucknow and Varanasi.
STRENGTH
Varanasi is one of those spots where individuals come to take their final breath. It
is where individuals immovably trust that Lord Shiva himself lifts their fire and
demonstrates to them the way of "amaratva" or a real existence which will see no
further birth and passing. Silk weaving is a famous industry in Varanasi. Varanasi
is known all through India for its generation of fine silk and Banarasi saris.
Weaving is commonly done inside the family, and most weavers in Varanasi are
Momin Ansari Muslims. A significant number of Varanasi's Muslims have a place
with a weaver network that is known by the name of Ansari, which signifies
"helper" in Arabic. For ages they have passed on their specialty from dad to child,
hand-weaving silk on room-sized foot-controlled weavers. They are designed into
Sarees worn for extraordinary events; numerous Indian young ladies long for
wearing Varanasi silk Saree for their big day.
Starting at 2015 there are around 40,000 weavers in Varanasi, down from 300,000.
Some credit the decline to bring down interest of Saris or higher number of
imported Saris. Others recommend that power looms assumed a job.
WEAKNESS
Varanasi has a high rate of Child labour given the sloppy idea of little scale
ventures. As indicated by Human Rights Watch, usually for kids as young as 5 or 6
to start working in industry is accepted to be more effective to show them from an
extremely youthful age as opposed to showing a more established offspring of 12
the exchange.
Some contend that families require the youngsters' pay and that kids would be
pushed into more minor and unsafe occupations. Others battled that law
authorization was hopelessly incapable and, in this manner, not worth seeking
after, let the families earn and survive.
OPPORTUNITIES
India is the home to one of the finest legacies of traditional Crafts. Over 10 million
artisans and their families, though mostly on the brink of survival are dependent on
crafts for a living.
Banarasi saree weaving is seen as one of the most exquisite crafts-forms of the
country. This craft is in great demand in the export market, and are high revenue
earners for the govt., exporters, middlemen and others who control the trade. Two
Indian cities – Varanasi in the north and Kanchipuram in the south – are famous
for their elegant silk saris. India is the world’s second largest producer of silk, but
India only accounts for 5 percent of the global silk market. This market share was
still enough to generate approximately $260 million in revenues during 1995.
Germany, the largest consumer of Indian silk, imported material worth DM 540
million ($231 million) in 1995. The bulk of Indian silk thread and silk cloth,
however, are consumed domestically. The silk industry has been expanding rapidly
over the last several years, with substantial movement and international subsidies
for sericulture projects and marketing schemes. In addition to government
promotion, major funds to the silk industry come from the World Bank. From
1980-89, the World Bank began active promotion of the silk industry as a means of
development by loaning $54 million to support sericulture in Karnataka. In 1989,
the World Bank provided two more loans totalling $177 million for the National
Sericulture Project of which Karnataka and Uttar Pradesh were recipients. In total,
the World Bank provided a $231 million for the expansion of the industry form
1980-89. In 1994 and 1995, the Bank provided a $3 million loan to modernise the
Karnataka silk industry and provided further assistance on a $157 million project
to upgrade the production and quality of Indian silk.
The exquisite traditional arts and crafts in India are under serious threat today, and
are passing through a time of crisis. For the average consumer, craft is perceived to
be a high maintenance, high cost product that neither wears nor functions as well
as its industrial equivalent; for the craftsperson, craft is a profession that neither
gives adequate economic returns nor social status.
THREATS
Banarasi Silk is going through a challenging stage when the residential silk request
is taking off high and 33% of the nation’s request of crude silk is enhanced by
imports for the most part from China. Moderate development of local silk
creation, modernization of silk industry from the shackles of age-old regular
framework, corporatization of silk industry, quality up degree of Banarasi silk,
rising import of modest Chinese silk into the nation, unremarkable development in
silk send out are a portion of the difficulties that are confronting the Indian silk
industry for the prompt future.
SUGGESTIONS FOR GROWTH
1. Policymakers and industry affiliations need to seek after buyer attention to the
item, maybe hoisting their endeavors to the levels of a mission.
2. The reason for GI (Geographical Indication) isn't just remedial however at a few
levels useful too. While customer data has expanded, corrective and preventive
advantages of enactment are yet to be procured.
3. On the lawful side, the GI Act should be connected with a substantial hand,
pulling in punitive activity. Inside the Banarasi sari industry, going off phony items
as unique requires a lawful reaction.
4. The job of government is additionally imperative; when GI status has been truly,
that too without the help of the administration, makers would not have the capacity
to adequately shield or advance their GI image.
5. The weaving network should be sharpened through different workshops and
counsels with the end goal to have most extreme interest in the GI enrollment
process.
6. The money related advantages of GI enlisted items may not permeate to the
weaver network.
