Is The Beauty Industry Growing? Especially Ecommerce Cosmetics in 2021 and Beyond? Absolutely
Is The Beauty Industry Growing? Especially Ecommerce Cosmetics in 2021 and Beyond? Absolutely
Once “challenger” brands like IPSY, Glossier, and Fenty Beauty are now
household names — spanning geographies and demographics alike.
Did 2020’s COVID-19 pandemic negatively affect cosmetics and personal care
sales? Yes. Does retail still dominate? Also, yes. But …
There you’ll find detailed examples, packed with tactics and lessons,
from three fast-growing direct-to-consumer (DTC) companies …
ColourPop
In a competitive market, this indie beauty brand stood out against
expensive rivals with creative that highlighted product quality. The payoff?
Coola
As a brand that wasn’t digitally native, the eco-conscious retailer’s hurdle was
gaining traffic online. By selling through product funnels using Facebook
advertising, it offered customers the niche products they actually needed.
Conversions increased, repeat customers lifted +50%, and the brand hit 140%
year-over-year growth.
Bambu Earth
Struggling with low traffic and dismal conversion rate that no new creative or
better-performing ad could fix — this clean-beauty brand needed a refresh. Its
lifeline came in the form of an online “Skin Quiz,” powerhouse UGC, and insights
from customers seeded throughout the funnel.
The results? 25x revenue YoY, 2.5x AOV, and profitability for the first time.
How big is the beauty industry? Up from $483B in 2020 to $511B in 2021 — and
with an annual compounded growth rate of 4.75% worldwide — it’s predicted
to exceed $716B by 2025. And $784.6B by 2027.
In the US, offline shopping still rules — luring a whopping 81% of the market in-
stores. At the same time, offline’s market share is declining while online climbs.
The US was even considered the most valuable beauty and personal care
market in the world in 2018. Starting the trends and then setting the standards
for other countries to follow suit.
Though the distribution methods are evolving, traditional retail chains still play
the largest role in the US.
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Aside from multi-brand conglomerates like Walmart and Target, the biggest
vertical-specific players are Ulta and Sephora — the leading health and
beauty retailers based on sales.
For more than a century, production of cosmetics and beauty products has
been controlled by a handful of multinational corporations. The long-reigning
legacies — L'Oréal, Unilever, Procter & Gamble, and Estee Lauder Companies —
made up a whopping 81.7% of worldwide beauty revenue in 2019. Leaving little
behind to spare.
The way into the winner’s club unites that desire for convenience with quality
products.
eMarketer reports that the beauty buyers who valued quality most were more
likely to shop directly from a cosmetics brand’s site (64%), while big-box stores
won shoppers on price (28%).
Ecommerce brands can lean into these trends with the exclusivity of the
online shopping experience to challenge the upperhand of in-store retailers.
To win in the fight over product superiority comes from the marketing use of
three little words: natural, organic, or clean.
In fact, the cosmetics industry has the biggest share of consumers that prefer
to shop organic. But, “clean beauty” and “organic makeup” are more than just
buzzwords.
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The global market value for natural cosmetics expected nearly a 2x increase
from 2018 to roughly 54.5 billion dollars expected for the year 2027 — proof of
the growing importance of the natural and organic cosmetics market.
The division lies within the definition. To be considered natural, the product
must meet non-toxic standards for ingredients and processing.
Since there isn’t strict regulation on the natural beauty market, the disparity
between private standards and administrative interpretations leaves open a
potentially dangerous loophole for consumers.
With all the smoke and mirrors, insecurity throughout the cosmetic industry
ensues over what actually constitutes natural beauty.
It follows that this trend will continue as consumers become more educated
about sun damage — indicating potential for growth within the subcategories
of sun protection and anti-aging skincare products.
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In the same vein, cosmetics brands that meet consumer’s new demands and
expectation levels of quality will experience growth.
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While the beauty and personal care industry will remain strong globally, the
cosmetics and skincare verticals specifically will experience the most revenue
growth in the US at a rate of 3.5% by 2021.
Demographics of Beauty
As non-western countries climb in purchasing power, their influence on
demographics follow. With ethnicity, culture, and rituals different from North
America and Europe, diversity shapes the broader global market in its image.
“It’s not enough to make 50 shades of foundation and only sell the dark ones
online,” said beauty influencer Jackia Aina in a 2019 interview. “I’ve directly seen
how the consumers have demanded better and fairer retail shopping
experiences for everyone … we’ve seen a big rise in brands expanding on their
products.”
Ethnicity isn’t the only driver, age plays a critical role in how consumers shop
for personal care products.
As a result of entering the job market, millennials and Gen Z have become the
biggest drivers of the cosmetics business. This is especially glaring in the US,
where they have above-average expenditures on personal care products —
an index of 122 on cosmetic products — compared to other shoppers.
Even more striking, 29% of them make purchasing decisions based on media
or online reviews — 3x greater than that of Gen X’ers and a whopping 6x more
than Baby Boomers.
This sets the stage for social proof as the key to unlock for millennials' loyalty
and trust. Both socially native brands and ecommerce retailers are therefore
in prime position to capture their market share.
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Amazon
Amazon’s success in yet another CPG category is no surprise. According
to Edison Trends data, health and beauty was the third-most-purchased
category on the Amazon in 2018.
Though not the largest percentage of its revenue on platform, in the grander
scheme, Amazon accounts for 44.3% of total retail ecommerce sales of health,
personal care, and beauty products in the US.
Though Walmart is chasing after, Amazon remains far in the lead in terms of
onsite user experience.
Although Amazon’s health and beauty sales are growing, cosmetics shoppers
still prefer other channels. Beauty retailer, Ulta, has far higher ecommerce
sales ($618.8 billion) and just 10.1% of Ulta's total revenues come from digital
channels.
It’s a glimmer of hope for retailers not selling on the platform, that Amazon
isn’t always the end-all-be-all.
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Legacy: Top 10
Leading the market for more than a century, legacy cosmetics brands
dominate on a global scale.
Despite their longstanding success, brand loyalists have grown old, and to
succeed in the future at the same scale means attracting Gen Z and
millennials.
Call it karma — the legacy retailers who preached that youth is beauty, are
now being pushed out by younger brand counterparts …
Enter, the new guard courtesy of 2PM Inc.’s DNVB Power List:
The rise of social shopping coupled with more consumer packaged goods
offerings online, lends itself to new ecommerce penetration opportunities for
DTC brands.
“It’s not just the billion-dollar brands like Kylie Cosmetics and Glossier,” said
Andrew Lipsman, eMarketer principal analyst in a 2019 report.
As it stands, more than half of US internet users have already purchased from
DTC personal care and beauty brands in the past:
Even more promising, 53.9% said they will likely try products from DTC’s in the
beauty industry going forward in 2019.
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In the past several years, subscription startups like Birchbox and Ipsy have
reached valuations ranging from $500 million to $2 billion — with investors
encouraged by the belief that they’d grow quickly because they had a
recurring revenue stream.
Pioneers of the subscription economy, Birchbox and Ipsy solved for the
problem of product discovery — adding elements of delight and convenience.
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Despite a strong start, by 2018 less than 10% of US internet users had received a
subscription box in the past month (eMarketer).
Now, even Birchbox — the purveyor of the subscription model — has turned to
a new tactic to meet customers where they’re at. Enter, the “pop-up” …
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2. Glossier: Pop-Ups
Instead, the pop-up model allows them to reap the benefits of a physical
presence to capture consumer demand without the real estate costs.
Thus, the appeal of pop-ups may work best to draw in the digitally inclined
shopper, rather than the latter.
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“I never could have anticipated the emotional connection that women are
having with the products and the brand as a whole,” Rihanna told Time. “Some
are finding their shade of foundation for the first time, getting emotional at the
counter. That’s something I will never get over.”
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“It’s the power of social media,” Jenner told Forbes. “I had such a strong reach
before I was able to start anything.”
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Kylie was nurturing her social audience long before she ever asked them for
the sale. By posting YouTube videos of her makeup routines and sharing looks
on her Snapchat stories, she had positioned herself as a leading voice in
fashion and beauty.
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So, when the Kylie Cosmetics line launched, the lip-kits sold out in less than a
minute. Her followers didn’t need any convincing. They were sold on the
product because they were sold on her.
More than a century old and a household name throughout its lifetime, L’Oreal
is the leader in cosmetics sales worldwide.
Keeping the lead amidst decades of revolution in the beauty industry has
required that L’Oreal doesn’t look back and revel in its status. Rather, they must
constantly adapt the model to progress forward and keep up with DTC
disruptors.
L’Oreal’s strategy: get out of the old (legacy) by integrating the new
(technology). Its emphasis is on pioneering new technologies like AR, VR, and AI
to bolster product discovery. They’ve even coined the shift to digital marketing
strategies, “Marketing 3.0.”
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A disruption not only within the company but across the beauty industry as a
whole was its acquisition of AR beauty tech start-up, Modiface in 2018.
“The game won’t be the same when you simply ask your voice assistant to buy
the best mascara on the market for you. Or if you are able to watch a makeup
tutorial directly on your face with a virtual try-on,” said Lubomira Rochet,
L’Oréal’s global chief digital officer in a Think with Google interview.
“The brands that master these experiences will be the ones people choose.”
We call it the …
There’s no other way to increase your profitability than to affect one of these
four variables — driving them forward through a strategy built for growth.
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Glossier named it the main reason for its success. Rihanna exclusively
launched her brand on it. Social media marketing across Instagram,
Facebook, and Twitter is the honey pot for modern beauty brands.
“Instead, we started shooting photos of the jar angled onto the top of the
product. We messed with the product textures, lighting, props — and have
found ad success with it because of the unique creative display.”
After using the right side of your brain, don’t forget about the left — develop a
social media buying strategy. Start by calculating your numbers by examining
customer cohorts:
Then, utilize this data to come up with a spend strategy that aligns with your
cash flow and goals.
Influencers
With cosmetics products especially, use video. It’s easy to fake affinity for the
product or brand through a still image or written copy. By having the
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The numbers back it up. With a majority of beauty content consumed coming
directly from influencers instead of brands, it’s indicative that building trust
through social-proof can impact buying behavior.
“Cosmetics brands should aim for creating YouTube tutorial content that
shows the results of the product,” says Cody Wittick of Kynship, an influencer
marketing agency. “Include influencer testimonials, such as ‘this product
made me feel [blank]’ or ‘I loved this about it.’”
”Aside from social media, a marketing tactic that often gets overlooked is the
unboxing experience that you can create for influencers,” says Wittick.
”Fabfitfun created a stir about this, yet it’s a tactic that still gets neglected.”
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Google Shopping campaigns always were and will continue to be the most
important campaign type you can leverage as an ecommerce brand.
Within Google Shopping, the biggest focus for brands within the cosmetics
vertical is rock-solid data feed management.
While there’s plenty of data you can send Google in a feed, not all fields are
created equal. Certain optimizations will have more of an impact than others,
with product title being the most important.
“We like to get as much information into the product title as possible within the
150 character limit,” said Common Thread Collective’s Director of Paid Search,
Tony Chopp. “And typically we like to follow some sort of structure to keep
things consistent, for example:
Think about how you can get potential non-brand search keywords into your
products. And mind the order. Google places more weight on words at the
beginning of the title than those towards the end.
When combining organic with paid marketing campaigns, the potential for
growth skyrockets. Still, revere owned media channels to generate returning
customer value, not as your source of new customer acquisition.
Build personalized email flows. Create useful blog content. Cherish your
organic audience and reward them for continually choosing to engage with
you.
YouTube
From skincare tutorials to cosmetics hauls, the platform is ripe for both
entertaining and convincing new buyers.
Startups looking to capitalize on the massive space must utilize the power of
influencer marketing.
One of the most famous faces on both YouTube and in the industry is Jeffree
Star. The vlogger has built such a frenzy around his personal brand, that
following the launch of his own make-up collection, the hosting Shopify site
went down within minutes of kickoff due to extremely high shopping volumes.
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The recipe for his content success: immersive tutorials that build excitement
around a product to ultimately sell and make money. Star even managed to
make the list of the highest-earning YouTube stars in 2019 across all content
categories, with estimated annual earnings of 18 million US dollars.
His influence, among other YouTube stars, is a testament to the way that
consumer buying behavior is changing significantly and likely for the
foreseeable future.
Data from CTC’s clients across the cosmetics industry show that store visits
are down by more than 90% and YouTube views are up by 20%.
Still, it’s worth considering how you measure the success of your
YouTube campaigns.
“We often measure YouTube (and Display) differently than traditional search
and shopping campaigns, by at least considering a 1-day view through
window,” recommends Chopp.
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Conversion Rate
Acquire new customers and increase AOV by optimizing your onsite
experience.
From driving visitors through ads to the design experience, conversion rate
encompasses the culmination of digital marketing efforts within your sales
funnels to finalize a purchase.
Tactics to increase conversion rate include email capture, reviews, trust seals,
user-generated content, subscriptions, and in-cart or post-purchase upsells.
This combined with site speed and mobile optimization allows for a seamless
shopping experience.
Start by determining your 30-, 60-, or 90-day LTV. Then, execute a plan that fits
your cash flow and builds your business over the long term. Tactics like
memorable unboxing experiences or content marketing can generate an
organic community of brand evangelists.
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Email Marketing
Retention, retention, retention. Email marketing is critical to improving your LTV
and maximizing revenue.
The good news is, we’ve already laid out the strategy to drive visitors to your
site. Use their arrival to your advantage by encouraging subscriptions to your
email lists, which will drive purchases further down the line if they don’t
convert the first time around.
Whether your email subscriber is a future or past purchaser, mix two parts
education and engagement with one part sales.
Variable Costs
If costs increase as orders rise, that’s a variable cost.
Opposed to fixed costs — like rent and operational overhead — VCs cover
COGS, platform and payment processors, supply chain, fulfillment, and CAC:
total spend including agency fees.
Cosmetics brand looking to measure and optimize variable costs, should opt
to follow a four-quarter accounting matrix. Each represents a portion of your
revenue that signals the health of that component as well as areas of
opportunity.
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The Brand
The Challenge
Available exclusively online and in Ulta, its focus was on catching customer’s
attention on social media instead of market shelves. But, for a brand that was
born organically on social media, it hadn’t paid any attention to paid social
media efforts.
Neglecting this category in its business strategy, meant missing out on new
visitors and higher returns since it lacked in-store discoverability. In order to
grow and scale digitally, paid ads were the necessary next-step in its maturity.
The Strategy
The product was self-explanatory. Finding a way to show that it was still high-
quality relative to the lower price point, was the creative unlock for the brand.
One messaging angle involved running ads about duped colors to its
competitor audiences, who were selling similar products at higher markups.
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“The biggest contributor to success lay in our ability to make ColourPop stand
out in a competitive market, without blatantly calling out the price of the
product on the ad level,” said Growth Guide, Michelle Luo.
“Instead, we opted to show the product in use, so that you can really see the
quality and color payoff of the products.”
After price, the major wins were ads that highlighted product quality. Whether
it was up-close videos of putting lipstick on and not seeing it crack or user-
generated content – the advertising focused on the color payoff and how
good the product looked.
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“It didn’t matter if the ad was pretty,” said Luo. “It mattered that
it showed real people using the product.”
The Results
Bambu Earth
The Brand
Amber Hawthorne founded the business over ten years ago, and in early 2019
was acquired by 4x400 — Common Thread Collective’s (CTC) in-house holding
company that acquires and builds digitally native brands.
The Challenge
It was all the things you expect … low traffic and dismal conversion rate that
no new creative or better-performing ad could fix.
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And the reason was simple: they just weren't converting enough customers (a
2.14% conversion rate at a $64 AOV just won't cut it), which meant they couldn't
afford to drive more traffic.
First, Bambu Earth needed a brand refresh, both visually and conceptually. So
we rebuilt the website and clarified the brand pillars that were true to the core
of Amber's long-held commitments to her customers.
From there, it needed new advertising that reflected that. Some new UGC and
reshot product-focused imagery started to fuel real growth.
“Suddenly it was on the cusp of rocketship growth,” says Andrew Faris, CEO of
4x400 “and we could feel it. We just needed that one big push to really get us
over the edge.”
At a start-up stage in its business, increasing every lever for growth ultimately
matters for Bambu Earth. Yet, while it’s always iterating on driving and
converting traffic that will affect AOV — because it’s a consumable product,
lifetime customer value is the game.
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The team knew that customers who converted stuck around. So they had to
do two things: solve the conversion rate issue, then validate the LTV
assumption.
The Strategy
“LTV is the thing that has and will continue to turn Bambu Earth into a huge
player on the cosmetics scene,” says Faris. “At its core, we believe that’s
possible because the product is so strong.”
“If you don't know what you’re trying to track, you will never get good,” says
Faris. “I think this is a really underestimated step, is that you can't really do a
great job strategically without having the information on hand from the start.”
For example, if LTV on a moisturizer is strong, yet costs the brand a significant
amount to acquire that customer in the first place — being a startup, Bambu
Earth can’t front the cash flow over the long term for it to be worth it to the
business.
On the other hand, if the LTV is not as strong on the toner, but Bambu can
acquire that customer really cheaply — there’s profit to be made earlier.
While LTV is the main variable at play, the lesson is that you have to do that
relative to the cost of acquiring the customer in the first place. This prep work
isn’t complete without factoring in the margin to determine where the cost
value is.
Within that, a singular strategy emerged to solve for LTV: a skin quiz.
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When visitors arrive, they’re kicked into a quiz on the homepage with questions
about their skin health, lifestyle, and goals. After finishing the quiz, customers
are then given a custom product recommendation based on their results.
Retention first and foremost is about having a great product that actually
works for people.
“We want to make sure that we set people up for success,” says Faris. “We
utilize the skin quiz as a way to serve our customers well by giving them a
product they’ll love, which creates value for us because they want to keep
coming back.”
The team has personalized things even further. First, by adding customer
service options relative to where visitors land. Second, by tracking what
questions people ask about each kit and then putting those answers on each
product page
The Results
• Customers who purchase through the quiz 2x value within 90 days and
2.5x AOV within 90 days.
• For the month of February 2020, Bambu Earth had earned as much
revenue from returning customers only as it did in total customer
revenue overall for 2018.
Coola
The Brand
The Coola brand is the quintessential slice of California life and its products
embody that ethos — from organic wellness to an outdoor, active lifestyle. Its
skincare products are eco-conscious and sourced with a “farm to face”
philosophy.
CTC caught Coola’s drift and set out to achieve its goal of protecting and
improving skin, utilizing paid media to increase purchases of its organic sun-
care products.
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The Challenge
In the beauty industry, getting customers to your site doesn’t always come
cheap. With CPMs for paid traffic higher than most, the difficulty is increasing
visitors without breaking the bank.
Coola was no exception. As a brand that wasn’t digitally native, the hurdle was
gaining traffic online, not just in-stores. With a significantly high conversion
rate, the opportunity was there.
Alongside the obstacle of increasing visitors, was increasing AOV and LTV.
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Before launching its paid media campaign, the CTC growth team conducted
analysis and found that certain Coola products had higher AOV on Facebook
(people would tend to bundle them with other products) at the top of the
funnel.
To capitalize on this meant finding ways to increase repeat purchase rate and
the lifetime value of the customers that it was actually driving.
The Strategy
To combat high CPMs, it all came down to the creative and the angle of ad
messaging.
For example, one of the top products for Coola is its “Sunless Tan” — but the
challenge became adjusting the ad messaging angle during each season to
produce creative that converts year-round.
In the winter, the focus was on keeping a bronze glow all year. In the summer,
the messaging was about accentuating your current tan with the product.
Then in remarketing, the team focused more on the actual product itself, with
gifs and still-image product photography to further inform the consumer.
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The Coola product catalog is diverse, from lip balm and sunscreen to aging
serums and BB creams.
“Whether it was the sunless tan collection or the aging serum — each diverse
product had its own funnel from top-to-bottom, so we could hyper-target
those interested.”
This became a layup for improving lifetime customer value. “We know that the
replenish rate for the sunless tanner product is 60 days,” says Reese. “So
anywhere from 45-60 days after they’ve purchased, to impact LTV, we’d target
them with an ad to remind them to re-up on their product purchased.”
It wasn’t just ecommerce that was reaping the benefits. Coola saw the results
of Facebook advertising come through on other channels.
After running paid ads, there was a surge in in-store purchases of Coola
products within retail locations at Ulta and Sephora. Digital strategy positively
impacted the business holistically.
The Results
From creative content to media buying, our solutions are specifically tailored
to tweak the variables that create revenue.