International Design Journal

Volume 9 Issue 2 Article 19

2019

Creating fashionable trendy designs for women inspired from

Siwa oasis traditional costumes
Nagah S. Ashour
Faculty of women for Art, Science and Education, Ain Shams University, Cairo, Egypt,
[email protected]

Rania N. Shaker
Faculty of women for Art, Science and Education, Ain Shams University, Cairo, Egypt,
[email protected]

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Recommended Citation
Ashour, Nagah S. and Shaker, Rania N. (2019) "Creating fashionable trendy designs for women inspired
from Siwa oasis traditional costumes," International Design Journal: Vol. 9 : Iss. 2 , Article 19.
Available at: https://digitalcommons.aaru.edu.jo/faa-design/vol9/iss2/19

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by Arab Journals Platform. It has been accepted for
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 223 Nagah Ashour & Rania Shaker

Creating Fashionable trendy designs for women inspired from Siwa oasis traditional
costumes

Nagah S. Ashour
Faculty of women for Art, Science and Education, Ain Shams University, Cairo, Egypt
Rania N. Shaker
Faculty of women for Art, Science and Education, Ain Shams University, Cairo, Egypt

Abstract: Keywords:
Designs ideas can be obtained from many sources of inspiration. Designers are trendy designs
often influenced by anything visual from nature to a fruit plate. Apparel designers Siwa oasis
are inspired by necessity the need to create fashion which called Form Follows traditional costumes
Function. Folk dress may indicate religious affiliation. Age and marital status is
communicated by folk dress. Egypt had a range of traditional costumes, The
traditional clothes are differing from governorate to another in Egypt, according to
its geography, weather, culture, customs, traditions, and beliefs, The oasis of Siwa--
the so-called Pearl of the Egyptian Desert ,inspired many designers and artists , So
The objective of this paper is to develop strategic thinking in designing in order to
achieve viable solutions for fashion designing .throw design different
contemporary women designs inspired from the Siwan folk costumes.
Paper received 18th February 2019, Accepted 13th March 2019, Published 1st of April 2019

farmers (fellahin) basically wear gallibayas. In the

I-Introduction
cities the upper classes adopted the clothes of their
Designers are mainly interested in the visual
conquerors - Ottoman Turks from 1500s, and later
appearance and connotations of the objects, and
European from 1798. To the south the Nubians
seldom in the conceptual integrity of the design.
have their own distinctive costume and across the
Different sources of inspiration can be combined
desert the Bedouin also have a separate style of
in one garment: a designer garment, a Roman
clothing. The traditional clothes are differing from
ornament, a piece of tree bark. Even though the
governorate to another in Egypt, according to its
use of sources of inspiration is entirely pragmatic,
geography, weather, culture, customs, traditions,
it is possible to identify different types of sources
and beliefs ….etc. (4, 5)
of inspiration performing different roles.
Siwa or The oasis of Siwa--the so-called Pearl of
Designers find the same inspirational blend of
the Egyptian Desert--is located 315 (km) south of
colors, motifs shapes, and spaces in folk costume.
the Mediterranean port town of Marsa Matruh,
Folk dress signifies a special day, such as Sunday,
Egypt, the nearest city of any size within 500 km.
holiday, or ceremonial day. Clothing for brides
Known as Wahat Siwah in Arabic, the 1,000
and grooms are among the most elaborate. Folk
square km Siwan Depression is 82km long, varies
dress indicates the occupation of the wearer (for
from 2 to 20 km wide, and lies as much as 18
example, shepherd). Folk dress distinguishes
meters (m) below sea level on the northern edge of
wealth and social status, typically through the
the Great Sand Sea of Egypt's Western Desert--the
number and quality of clothing items. Components
Sahara (6,7).
of folk dress have a “magical” function. For
Women's traditional clothes in Siwa:
example, the ritual marriage cap placed on a new
Woman's clothes and jewelries in Siwa are
bride brought fertility and good fortune. Folk dress
unique; the woman wears colorful robes with wide
signifies regional and national affiliation. (1, 2, 3)
and long sleeves. The robe has a decorative silk
Folk(ethnic) influence Folk dress may indicate
piece called "Touque" around the neck and it has
religious affiliation. Age and marital status is
four thin black pieces on both sides. The old
communicated by folk dress. Contradictory
woman wears a black robe, both inside and outside
situations in peasant society, such as single
the home. When the married woman goes to
motherhood, are visible in a woman’s appearance.
congratulate or console a neighbor, she wears
Folk dress has approved aesthetic qualities that
several robes, including a black dress with long
attract available members of the opposite sex. (1, 2, 3,
4, 5) and wide sleeves; she wraps her body with a large
piece of dark grey fabric striped with black and
Egypt had a range of traditional costumes. The
grey lines placed over the head called "mellaya".

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Creating Fashionable trendy designs for women inspiredfrom Siwa oasis traditional costumes 224

The favorite robes for woman in Siwa are two link with the ancient Egyptian sin god Amun-Ra
dresses which she had made before marriage for may be the origin of this radiating "sunburst"
celebrations, one of them is black and the other is design always found embroidered in multi colored
white with long and wide sleeves and rich silk silks on Siwan wedding dresses. The T-shaped
embroidery of variegated colors around the neck black wedding dress was worn on the seventh day
and the front part of the robe. "Sunburst" of the wedding. The mother of pearl buttons that
embroidery patterns picked out in silk threads with cover the front panel of the dress may have a
mother of pearl buttons. Siwa’s well documented talismanic function, repelling bad luck.

Fig.(1) samples of Siwa cloth

Woman in Siwa used a shawl called "Itrqat" to are similarly associated with the sun. There is
cover her head at home and in celebrations. It is a another style of shawl which is worn by women of
rectangular piece of fabric embroidered with silk the Oasis when outside their family home. It is a
threads and it has Silk tufts too. A wedding shawl large rectangular piece . Girls from Siwa were
with the distinctive Siwa radiating sun design expected to prepare up to seven pairs of trousers
worked in multi colored silk thread. The choice of prior to their wedding .(3,8,9)
colors - predominantly red, orange and yellow -

Fig (2) Black and white wedding robe in Siwa

The dress or shirt in Siwa looks different in
II- Experimental Work.
construction of the other Egyptian folk costumed.
The present research used the different silhouettes
Looks like the ancient Egyptian tonic and old
of traditional clothes from Siwa - Egypt as a
Coptic shirt. The embroidery focused mainly in
source of inspiration to create fashionable designs
the front it looks like rays and the embroidery
for women. Models were drawn for the age group
geometrical and naturalistic The Siwan slacks
(25-40 years old). Models poses have been
(serwal) look wide at the upper turning wider in
matched to the designs, which reveal the shape
the bottom. The decoration focused in the focused
.(5) and style of the designs and enhance the dramatic
in the bottom of legs
effect desired by the designer. Ideas are sketched
The objective out in rough sketches. The sketches are then
The objective of this paper is to develop strategic reworked and redrawn, starting with a really quick
thinking in designing in order to achieve viable pencil drawing and then being revised and
solutions for fashion designing. .throw design redrawn into a full-color sketch, Watercolor
different contemporary women designs inspired pencils are used to specific details and fabric
from the Siwan folk costumes. renderings to designs.

April 2019 International Design Journal, Volume 9, Issue 2

 225 Nagah Ashour & Rania Shaker

III- Results and analysis. and decoration units, the decorative motifs and
Fashion is an immaterial concept and clothes are elements include flounces, tassels and sewing in
the materialized objects of this concept(10.) In any shape of sun rays that famous in the traditional
single culture, the definition of what constitutes an consumes of Siwa.
extreme fashion may be agreed upon; but extreme Functional Design:
fashion, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. This outfit is suitable for day and evening events
Particularly between Western and non-Western can also be used for young and middle age ladies.
views there are very different ideas of what is Colors: foshia ,, ochre, and black. Suggested
excessive or outlandish, or verging on the Fabrics: linen and viscose.
unacceptable. (11, 12) All affected by fashion: as Design (2)
individuals when using clothes and other products
to create an identity and an image and as
consumers participating in the wheel of
consumption and economy. Although theses
designs not necessary are so weird or loud, some
even might see simple and banal. Since fashion is
a visual language that people employ to
communicate with each other. Furthermore, it’s
about creating an identity and a space in response
to the culture we inhabit. (13) It is important to
remember that contemporary fashions bear
obvious and subtle links to fashions throughout the
ages. Contemporary styles have both diversified
and limited traditional looks. Creating designs
from examples in costume design history forms the
harmony between fashion and costume design.
Design (1)

Structural Design:
this outfit consists of two pieces, long skinny pants
with cut off top with empire cut .it seems for the
first sight unconventional outfit, but its feminine
soft cut and lines reveal that it’s could be used as a
familiar look, the change in the sleeve cut and the
empire cut emphasis the feminine look, also the
reparation of the triangle cut in the top and used
buttons reveals the Siwan cultural taste.
Structural Design: Decorative Deign:
The garment consists of one piece dress, one cut This outfit bears more than one aspect of Siwan
from shoulder to the knee ,this dress is sleeveless feature the decorative repeated triangle give the
.it seems for the first sight very simple item ,but spirit of movement and energetic look, while the
the motivation is the potential of this form of empire bra cut in upper release the feminine touch
clothes for the acceptance of obvious ,clear , ,creating a joyful spirit by using mandarin orange
elegant. and denim blue colors emphasis the youth look.
Decorative Deign: Functional Design:
This garment decorated with different ornaments This outfit is suitable for day events, can also be
used for young and middle age ladies.

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Creating Fashionable trendy designs for women inspiredfrom Siwa oasis traditional costumes 226

Colors: white, black, orange, and blue. Suggested Design (4)

Fabrics: linen and viscose.
Design (3)

Structural Design:
The garment consists of two parts, long fitted
blouse with long sleeve and long pants (trousers) it
Structural Design:
seems for the first glance classic outfit but it can
This outfit consists of two pieces wide three serve as a casual one.
quarter semi Harem pants along with crop top, it Decorative Deign:
seems at the first glance non-familiar but the The garment decorated with different ornaments
motivation is the potential of this form of outfit for and decoration units .the decorative motifs and
the modification, adaption remediation of the elements include different
softness of harem pants line through the change of Functional Design: this garment is suitable for
the usual pants length. As obvious the decorative different occasions and places, suitable for young
stitches in the blouse with shiny colors are and middle age ladies.
governing the Socio- cultural dimensions of the Colors: white, blue, ochre, and purple . Suggested
final design, the top and the pants cuff may reveal Fabrics: linen and viscose.
the Siwan aroma. Design (5)
Decorative Deign: Structural Design:
This outfit bears some aspects of Siwan This outfit consists of parts, sleeveless dress and
characteristics, the embroidery that distributed in kimono jacket; it is look for the first sight a classic
the top and the pants cuff including the famous conventional outfit, but the rays in the
Siwan ray stitch and buttons, using of two embroidered jacket reflecting the spirit of Siwan
contrasted colors shiny orange and denim blue culture make the outfit trendy, and contemporary
emphasizing the main idea, and serving as come out of its originality.
balancing tools of design formation, the crochet Decorative Deign:
belt and pants cuff embroidered with shiny buttons This garment bear more than one aspects of the
evoke the Siwan aroma. Siwan features, the decorative motifs and elements
Functional Design: are distributed on the outer garment including rays
This outfit is suitable for day and early evening and stitches inspired from Siwan culture. The
events, for ladies and mid age women. using of two contrasted colors in olive green and
pinky purple, serves as balancing tool to the
Colors: scarlet, denim, ochre, and blue. Suggested
design formation, also the shiny stitches reflect the
Fabrics: linen and viscose. Siwan touch.

April 2019 International Design Journal, Volume 9, Issue 2

 227 Nagah Ashour & Rania Shaker

Structural Design:
This outfit consists of two pieces knee length skirt
and with waist long sleeve blouse, it seems for the
first glance ordinary classic look, but later you will
discover the fantastic real value hidden behind this
simplicity, the magical rhythm that achieved and
accurate balance the net distribution of the
decorative stitches on the blouse, the ability of
such product to aspect range of decoration and
modification, adaption and remediation of both
blouse and skirt.
Decorative Deign:
The decoration in this outfit including the Siwan
ray stitch and seam lines , emphasis the spirit of
balance and dynamic rhythm .realistic motifs and
color arrangement plays a great rule in this
combination of classic and modernity via mixing
the olive green and golden brown give the
classical elegant look.
Functional Design:
This garment is suitable for different occasions
and places, suitable for young and middle age
ladies.
Colors: white, hazelnut brown, ochre, and
burgundy. Suggested Fabrics: linen and viscose.
Design (7)
Functional Design:
This garment is suitable for different occasions
and places, suitable for young and middle age
ladies.
Colors: pink, ochre, and black. Suggested Fabrics:
linen and viscose.
Design (6)

Structural Design:
This is a simple jumpsuit consists of two main
horizontal cuts, the upper crosslet without laces
and embroidered band emphasis the feminine
look, combined with midi-wide cuffed pants , with
add embroidered belt with flounced and tassels
raise the spirit of Siwa .

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Creating Fashionable trendy designs for women inspiredfrom Siwa oasis traditional costumes 228

Decorative Deign: colors in pinky fuchsia and denim blue , emphasis

The top of the outfit is decorated with realistic the feminine look.
motifs, including geometrical shapes, and flounced Functional Design:
which are repeated in the belt, the pants decorated This outfit is suitable for day and early evening
with different motifs, such as stars circles with events, for ladies and mid age women.
different sizes and colors. The rhythm is achieved Colors: white, , aqua blue. Suggested Fabrics:
through the compatibility of motifs elegant linen and viscose.
distribution. The using of white color is very Design (9)
popular in Siwa especially in ceremonies, using
white color gives purity, elegancy, spirituality to
the design, with adding the fuchsia and turquoise
the modern contemporary look is achieved.
Functional Design:
This outfit is suitable for day and early evening
events, for ladies and mid age women.
Colors: white, and black. Suggested Fabrics: linen
and viscose.
Design (8)

Structural Design
This outfit consists of two pieces short fitted
crossover blouse, with short sleeve, and micro
skirt, it seems for the first sight youth crazy outfit,
but later you will discover the elegant fantastic
value hidden behind its simplicity. The magical
dynamic rhythm and accurate balance, which
achieved by the elegant classy distribution of lines
and embroidery stitches and buttons, giving this
soft harmony and also reflect the spiritual aroma
of Siwa mixed with the contemporary lines and
cut.
Structural Design: Decorative Deign:
This outfit consists of two parts; long sleeveless This outfit represents the aroma and taste of Siwa,
blouse reached from shoulder to knee, and short shown as the decorative lines and stitches which
skirt which hold in place by pleats, which gives us use buttons and beads to initiate the idea, the
feeling of smart look ,with floating blouse hem. sunrays concept which is the finger print of Siwan
Decorative Deign: embroidery elegantly distributed .the use of this
This garment shows two scenes of decoration of joyful royal violet color create the look of royalty
decoration, covering the blouse of asymmetrically classy feminine look.
motifs distribution and elements, with the elegant Functional Design:
distribution of bleats in the skirt. The soft use of This outfit is suitable for different occasions and

April 2019 International Design Journal, Volume 9, Issue 2

 229 Nagah Ashour & Rania Shaker

events adapting some accessories, 7. C. Vivian, The western desert of Egypt: An

for ladies and mid age women. explorer's handbook. The American
Colors: white, , ochre, and brown . Suggested University in Cairo Press, Cairo, Egypt.
Fabrics: linen and viscose. (2004).
8. O.Sh.Mohamad and W.AbdElradi,
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Creating Fashionable trendy designs for women inspiredfrom Siwa oasis traditional costumes 230

April 2019 International Design Journal, Volume 9, Issue 2