Eastman 2021 Can Luxury Attitudes Impact Sustain
Eastman 2021 Can Luxury Attitudes Impact Sustain
DOI: 10.1002/mar.21546
RESEARCH ARTICLE
1
  Department of Marketing, Georgia Southern
University, Statesboro, Georgia, USA               Abstract
2
 Department of Marketing and International         This study examines the effect of value‐expressive and social‐adjustive luxury atti-
Business, Foster College of Business, Bradley
University, Peoria, Illinois, USA
                                                   tudes on sustainable behaviors, specifically ecologically conscious consumer beha-
3
  University of Strasbourg, University of          vior, and socially responsible consumer behavior. This study investigates the
Lorraine, CNRS, BETA, Strasbourg, France           mediating effect of the desire for unique products on the relationship between
                                                   value‐expressive and social‐adjustive attitudes and sustainable behaviors. The
Correspondence
Jacqueline K. Eastman, Department of               moderating roles of brand self‐congruence and the cultural values of collectivism
Marketing, Georgia Southern University, P.O.
                                                   and masculinity on these relationships are also explored. The results offer support
Box 8154, Statesboro, GA 30460‐8154, USA.
Email: [email protected]                for the mediating role of the desire for unique products. Furthermore, the connec-
                                                   tion between the desire for unique products and ecologically conscious consumer
                                                   behavior (but not socially responsible consumer behavior) is enhanced with the
                                                   moderating cultural value of collectivism and the connection between the desire for
                                                   unique products and socially responsible consumer behavior (but not ecologically
                                                   conscious consumer behavior) is enhanced by the moderating factor of brand self‐
                                                   congruence. The findings help to explain the conflicting findings regarding luxury
                                                   and sustainability.
                                                   KEYWORDS
                                                   brand self‐congruence, cultural values, desire for unique products, luxury attitudes, sustainable
                                                   behavior
1    | INTRODUCTION                                                                 luxury consumers who are willing to pay more for sustainable options
                                                                                    for status benefits (i.e., “going green to be seen,” Griskevicius et al.,
In the literature, there is a lack of consensus regarding luxury and                2010, p. 392) may overcome these concerns.
sustainability. Some authors (Hennigs et al., 2013) suggest the two                     Closer examination is needed as the luxury industry is changing.
notions can be compatible, but others (Achabou & Dekhili, 2013;                     It suffered a significant drop of an estimated 23% in 2020 and is not
Dekhili et al., 2018) find a weak association between luxury and                    estimated to get back to prepandemic levels until 2023 (D'Arpizio &
sustainability. While researchers have focused more on the en-                      Levato, 2020). There is a real opportunity though as researchers
vironmental dimension (Hosta & Zabkar, 2020), there is increasing                   suggest a new era of conscientious luxury in which consumers are
concern for both environmental and social sustainability (Herédia‐                  deeply concerned about the environmental and societal impact of
Colaço & Coelho do Vale, 2018). Additionally, there is an attitude‐                 what is perceived as conspicuous blatant consumerism and are
behavior gap, the “green gap” (Johnstone & Tan, 2015), as consumers’                searching for authenticity, quality, and uniqueness (Danziger, 2021).
positive attitudes toward sustainability are not reflected in their                     As there is an urgency to improve sustainability, it is important to
consumption (Aagerup & Nilsson, 2016; Eckhardt et al., 2010;                        determine what influences consumers’ sustainable efforts (Morren &
Groening et al., 2018). As price could be a barrier to sustainable                  Grinstein, 2016). As Americans are responsible for the second‐
consumption (Groening et al., 2018; Tascioglu et al., 2017), reaching               highest amount of carbon dioxide emissions (Emissions Database for
Global Atmospheric Research [EDGAR], 2017), we need to research             similar across countries (Craig & Douglas, 2006; Hennigs et al., 2012),
American consumers. Despite Americans’ increasing concerns and              particularly the cultural value of collectivism (Tascioglu et al., 2017).
wanting the government to do more in favor of sustainability (Tyson         Differences in cultural values within the United States have been
& Kennedy, 2020), in reality, Americans have not made significant           determined to influence luxury consumption (Eastman et al., 2018).
changes in their personal sustainable behaviors, such as in terms of        The cultural value of collectivism impacts consumers’ sustainability
food waste, use of single‐use plastics, carpooling, and/or overall meat     positively (Cho et al., 2013; Salazar et al., 2013; Sreen et al., 2018;
consumption (Desilver, 2019). Thus, there is still a need to increase       Tascioglu et al., 2017), while masculinity has a negative impact (Xiao
Americans’ sustainability.                                                  & McCright, 2015; Zelezny et al., 2000).
    Researchers acknowledge that “other factors beyond internal                 Finally, brand‐self congruency is also studied as a moderator as
environmental attitudes, values, and norms” are impacting sustain-          research finds that when traits associated with brands match con-
able behaviors, but research here is limited (Aagerup & Nilsson, 2016,      sumers’ behaviors, trait inference is enhanced (Jerónimo et al., 2018).
p. 274). This is particularly true in terms of luxury and sustainability,   We offer these moderators may strengthen the connection of luxury
which has only been a topic of interest in recent years (Athwal et al.,     attitudes with sustainability, particularly in terms of the mediator of
2019). Costly Signaling Theory (Griskevicius et al., 2010) is a possible    desire for unique products and sustainability. Given the complexity
explanation for why consumers may choose sustainability actions for         found in the literature regarding what constructs impact environ-
reasons other than concern for the social and physical environment          mental and social sustainable behavior (Hosta & Zabkar, 2020) and
(Aagerup & Nilsson, 2016) as it posits that status needs influence          the “ambiguity underlying the phenomenon of prosocial status sig-
green purchases (Griskevicius et al., 2010) and prosocial behaviors         naling” (Luomala et al., 2020, p. 11), there is a need for a more
(Luomala et al., 2020). By understanding how consumers’ luxury at-          complex model to test in what situations luxury attitudes can be
titudes relate to their sustainable behaviors, marketers may better         compatible with sustainability (Kunz et al., 2020).
understand how to improve consumers’ sustainability.                            This study contributes to the literature in several ways. First, it
    Attitudes can play social functions in terms of self‐presentation       offers an explanation for the past mixed findings regarding the con-
“social‐adjustive function” and self‐expression “value‐expressive           nection between luxury and sustainability (Achabou & Dekhili, 2013;
function” (Wilcox et al., 2009). “When consumers have a social‐             Dekhili et al., 2018; Hennigs et al., 2013; Kunz et al., 2020) by in-
adjustive attitude toward a product, they are motivated to consume it       cluding the mediating role of the desire for unique products (Lynn &
to gain approval in social situations. Conversely, attitudes serving a      Harris, 1997). Second, it explores both ecologically conscious sus-
value‐expressive function (i.e., value‐expressive attitudes) help peo-      tainable behaviors as well as socially responsible sustainable beha-
ple communicate their central beliefs, attitudes, and values to others”     viors (Roberts, 1996a, 1996b) to determine if there are differences
(Katz, 1960; Wilcox et al., 2009, pp. 248–249). This study examines         based on the type of sustainability. Third, it determines how cultural
how social attitudinal functions influence sustainable behaviors and        values and brand self‐congruence (Tsai, 2005) help to strengthen the
determines if the desire for unique products mediates the relation-         link between uniqueness and sustainability and if their impact may
ship of luxury attitudes with sustainability.                               differ based on the type of sustainability. We begin by reviewing the
    The desire for unique products is a goal‐oriented construct ad-         literature, offering our methodology, and presenting the results. We
dressing how “consumers differ in the extent to which they hold as a        then discuss the implications of our findings along with the limitations
personal goal the acquisition and possession of consumer goods,             and conclusion.
services, and experiences that few other possesses” (Harris & Lynn,
1996; Lynn & Harris, 1997, pp. 602–603). We utilize the desire for
unique products, instead of the need for uniqueness, as the need for        2 |     LITE RATURE REVIEW
uniqueness measure emphasizes socially risky behaviors instead of
socially accepted ways to be unique (Lynn & Harris, 1997). Through          2.1 |     Relevant literature
demonstrating that luxury attitudes lead to both environmentally and
socially sustainable behaviors through the desire for unique products,      Per the Brundtland Report, “sustainable development is development
our results help lay the groundwork to better understand what im-           that meets the needs of the present without compromising the needs
pacts both types of sustainable behaviors (Hosta & Zabkar, 2020).           of future generations to meet their own needs” with sustainability
Sustainability is operationalized through ecologically conscious con-       including environmental, social, and economic aspects (World Com-
sumer behaviors and socially responsible consumer behaviors                 mission on Environment and Development [WCED], 1987, p. 43).
(Roberts, 1996a, 1996b) as these behavioral measures capture a wide         Given the importance of sustainability, one assumes consumers un-
variety of actions that help the environment (Roberts, 1996a) and           derstand their role and will change their consumption (Gandenberger
society (Roberts, 1996b) and are within the control of consumers.           et al., 2011). Unfortunately, sustainable consumption (Thøgersen &
    We also explore constructs that could enhance the connection            Crompton, 2009) is not ubiquitous because consumers see it being
with luxury attitudes, desire for unique products, and sustainability.      too time‐consuming, difficult, and expensive (Valor, 2008). They are
Culture has an enveloping guidance on consumers’ actions, as re-            more likely to engage in sustainable consumption when there is a
search suggests cultural values are becoming more diffused and              self‐benefit (egoistic) interest beyond helping the environment and
EASTMAN    ET AL.                                                                                                                        |   1883
society (Herédia‐Colaço & Coelho do Vale, 2018). According to the          Gabrielli, 2018). Positive consumption behaviors associated with a
green bundle approach (Delmas, 2018), sustainable products are as-         high‐status group can provide these visible signals (Childs & Jin,
sociated with a set of complementary individual and altruistic co‐         2016). Delgado et al. (2015), in looking at Prius pricing, propose
benefits (health, quality, economy, status, and emotion). The pre-         environmental signaling value could represent 4.5% of a Prius’ total
servation of the well‐being of the planet and/or the society is one        value. How sustainable behaviors provide this status signal (Groening
benefit, among others, of an overall package. In particular, prosocial     et al., 2018) needs to be explored.
status constitutes a major factor that impacts the adoption of sus-            Identity signaling suggests consumers make choices to socially
tainable behaviors (White et al., 2019). Certain individuals favor         communicate who they are, and who they are not, to their social
sustainable practices, mainly in public contexts, to give a good im-       groups (Berger & Heath, 2007). This identity signaling goes beyond a
pression of themselves and confirm a social status of an                   universal drive to be different to ensure social groups make the de-
environmentally‐friendly consumer (Green & Peloza, 2014).                  sired inferences, rather than undesired identity inferences, about a
      In relating sustainability to luxury, the research is mixed as the   consumer (Berger & Heath, 2007). Individuals belonging to a group
word “luxury” suggests excess, while “sustainability” implies frugality    engaged in sustainability express more willingness to adopt sustain-
(Achabou & Dekhili, 2013; Cervellon, 2013). Luxury is frequently           able behaviors than those belonging to groups less sensitive to en-
seen as superficial, while sustainability suggests moderation. Luxury      vironmental and social issues (Gupta & Ogden, 2009). Status signaling
is connected with egoist motivations, and these consumers may be           could help explain why those with a positive attitude towards luxury
unwilling to sacrifice personal pleasure to support environmental or       may be drawn to sustainability, particularly those with a desire for
social issues; additionally, sustainability is associated with more        unique products, as it offers a positive means of uniqueness. As il-
considerate behavior (Dekhili & Achabou, 2016). Some suggest sus-          lustrated in Figure 1 and tested with the hypotheses, we offer that
tainability is still a secondary criterion for luxury consumers, im-       for consumers with a positive luxury attitude, expressed in terms of
pacting the luxury industry's transition toward more sustainability        the social functions of attitude, who desire uniqueness, sustainability
(Kapferer & Michaut‐Denizeau 2019) though others suggest luxury            may meet their individual needs for uniqueness in a socially accep-
can be compatible with sustainability (Athwal et al., 2019). While         table way and strengthen their status within their group. As culture
luxury and sustainability may not be a natural fit, the literature sug-    and self has been shown to impact luxury perceptions (Kunz et al.,
gests values to consider in linking luxury to sustainability: socio-       2020), the connection between the desire for uniqueness and sus-
cultural values (such as belonging), ego‐centered values (such as          tainability may be stronger for those with a high value of collectivism
youthfulness), and eco‐centered values (such as doing good) (Hennigs       given their concern for the group, and weakened for those with high
et al., 2013; Kunz et al., 2020).                                          value of masculinity given their preference for material wealth.
      An additional complication is that while consumers may have          Moreover, this relationship could be enhanced among individuals
positive attitudes toward sustainability, these attitudes are not re-      with strong brand‐self congruity as they seek to communicate their
flected in their consumption, that is, the green gap (Johnstone & Tan,     sustainable identity to others.
2015). It is related to “the inconsistency between what the individual
says regarding his/her growing concern about the environmental
problems and what he/she does in terms of actions, behaviors, and          2.3 |     Hypotheses development
contributions to lessen the consequences of these problems”
(Elhaffar et al., 2020, p. 3). While the majority of Americans express     2.3.1 |      Luxury attitudes
concern for sustainability, only 20% make an effort to be more sus-
tainable in their actions (Pew Research Center, 2016). Thus, it is         Per the functional theory of attitude, the motivational foundation
important that sustainable consumption behaviors are measured in-          of attitudes plays an important role for attitudes predicting be-
stead of attitudes or concerns.                                            haviors (Shavitt, 1989). Luxury attitudes perform social functions
                                                                           through   self‐expression    (value‐expressive),    self‐presentation
                                                                           (social‐adjustive), or both (Wilcox et al., 2009). A value‐
2.2     | Theoretical underpinnings                                        expressive luxury attitude motivates one to consume luxury to
                                                                           illustrate their self‐identity while a social‐adjustive luxury atti-
According to Costly Signaling Theory, consumers perform costly             tude motivates one to purchase luxury to obtain social approval
prosocial behaviors when status motivated (Griskevicius et al., 2010).     and build relationships (Wilcox et al., 2009). The literature sug-
Per Cervellon (2013, p. 697), since the Great Recession, luxury            gests though that what serves as status signals to gain this social
consumers have been seeking to “demonstrate status without                 approval is changing, as some consumers may be moving from
shame.” Costly Signaling Theory offers consumers participate in so-        conveying status with wealth‐as‐status to values‐as‐status
cially visible behaviors to illustrate a willingness or ability to incur   (Cesareo & Patrick, 2019). Schade et al. (2016) suggest that so-
expense to improve their social status (Griskevicius et al., 2010), and    cial attitude functions differ by age, as the social‐adjustive
marketers have recommended increasing the visibility of sustainable        function has a stronger impact on adolescents while the value‐
products to encourage their use (Aagerup & Nilsson, 2016; Baghi &          expressive function impacts young adults.
1884    |                                                                                                                            EASTMAN     ET AL.
    Meta‐analysis research illustrates that green attitudes influence      been demonstrated to be an antecedent for the desire for unique
green purchase intentions (Zaremohzzbieh et al., 2020), but research       products and is a higher‐order construct made up of three factors:
is needed to determine if this applies to luxury attitudes. Aagerup and    unpopular choice counter‐conformity, creative choice counter‐
Nilsson (2016) note that consumption of green products is motivated        conformity, and avoidance of similarity (Tian et al., 2001); each factor
by self‐enhancement and self‐presentation and is more likely to oc-        impacting   consumption       differently   (Jahanshahi   &   Jia,   2018;
cur in a conspicuous consumption situation. Others find self‐              Jebarajakirthy & Das, 2021). The desire for unique products, a goal‐
expression benefits as another reason for purchasing green products        oriented unidimensional construct, looking at uniqueness in a positive
(Jahanshahi & Jia, 2018; Papista & Dimitradis, 2019). Both of these        socially acceptable manner (Lynn & Harris, 1997) is more appropriate
attitude functions can influence luxury consumers’ sustainable be-         for this study.
haviors if they see these behaviors as providing a social function to          Establishing uniqueness is demonstrated through consumption
show others what a good person they are and/or to illustrate their         that enhances self‐expression and one's feeling of specialness (Andrei
values. Our research answers the call by Athwal et al. (2019) to in-       et al., 2017; Lynn & Harris, 1997). From a study conducted with
vestigate the motivational drivers that can link luxury attitudes with     Chinese consumers, Sun et al. (2017) confirm that the need for un-
sustainability. We address this in terms of luxury social attitudes, not   iqueness mediates the link between status and face consciousness.
in having a direct impact on sustainability, but rather through the        As luxury motivation may increase a consumer's desire for unique
desire for unique products (uniqueness) as a means for consumers to        consumer products (Lynn & Harris, 1997), this study offers con-
demonstrate socially their place and their personal values.                sumers’ desire for unique products impacts their sustainable beha-
                                                                           viors as a means to show their uniqueness. We propose that one's
                                                                           luxury attitudes, both value‐expressive and social‐adjustive, will po-
2.3.2       | Desire for unique consumer products                          sitively influence their desire for unique products as illustrated in
                                                                           Figure 1 and described in the following hypotheses.
The desire for unique consumer products offers that “consumers                 Consumers who hold a value‐expressive attitude will have more
differ in the extent to which they hold as a personal goal the ac-         desire for unique products.
quisition and possession of consumer goods, services, and experi-              Consumers who hold a social‐adjustive attitude will have more de-
ences that few others possess” (Lynn & Harris, 1997, pp. 7–8). Luxury      sire for unique products.
motivation and the desire for unique products are connected as                 While luxury attitudes may positively or negatively impact sus-
“status aspiration is likely to produce a desire for unique consumer       tainable behaviors, the desire for unique consumer products’ litera-
products” (Lynn & Harris, 1997, p. 7). The need for uniqueness has         ture suggests it “will increase consumers’ efforts to acquire and
EASTMAN   ET AL.                                                                                                                           |     1885
possess goods, services, and experiences that few other possesses”         for unique products to demonstrate how they are sustainable.
(Lynn & Harris, 1997, p. 9) and will cause consumers to evaluate           Therefore:
scarce products more positively (Childs & Jin, 2016). In a number of           The desire for unique products mediates the relationship between
cultures, the need for uniqueness has a positive relationship to self‐     value‐expressive luxury attitudes and ecologically conscious consumer
expression (Kauppinen‐Räisänen et al., 2018) with the need to gain         behavior.
positive judgments to help enhance ones’ self and social image (Sun            The desire for unique products mediates the relationship between
et al., 2017). Jahanshahi and Jia (2018, p. 2) offer “customers who        social‐adjustive luxury attitudes and ecologically conscious consumer
seek to publicly display their uniqueness may conspicuously consume        behavior.
more green products”. Sun et al. (2017) argue those unique products            The desire for unique products mediates the relationship between
which enhance one's social approval help them gain face. Lang and          value expressive luxury attitudes and socially responsible consumer
Joyner Armstrong (2018) offer that uniqueness impacts female               behavior.
consumers’ fashion use through clothing swapping and renting, a                The desire for unique products mediates the relationship between
sustainable way to meet one's goal to use fashion in a novel way. In       social‐adjustive luxury attitudes and socially responsible consumer
terms of socially responsible consumption choices, Andrei et al.           behavior.
(2017) with a Romanian sample, found the desire for unique products
to be positively associated with the perceived importance of personal
power to make a difference. We hypothesize the desire for unique           2.3.3 |        Culture
consumer products may directly impact positive sustainable beha-
viors, as follows:                                                         “Culture has been defined as a collective programming of the mind
    The desire for unique products has a positive impact on ecologically   that distinguishes the members of one group or category of people
conscious consumer behavior.                                               from another” (Sreen et al., 2018, p. 178). Culture relates to luxury
    The desire for unique products has a positive impact on socially       because “cultural norms influence the need to control one's image in
responsible consumer behavior.                                             the social context” and countries have different brand prominence
    The outcomes for the desire for unique consumer products in-           preferences (Kauppinen‐Räisänen et al., 2018 p. 78). Some past re-
clude innovativeness, possession of scarce products, product custo-        searchers on culture have focused on country‐level cultural values
mization, the use of outmoded goods, and shopping venue choice             (Hofstede, 1980, 2018), but others hold that cultural values can be
(Lynn & Harris, 1997). For consumers with proluxury attitudes who          examined on the individual level (Eastman et al., 2018; Tascioglu
desire unique products, being sustainable might aid their need for         et al., 2017). Sharma et al. (2018) suggest the focus on demonstrating
status and help reconcile the potential conflict between luxury and        status relates to doing good more than feeling good among con-
sustainability. For those consumers whose luxury motivations are           sumers in emerging markets. The current study addresses Oliver and
linked to pleasure, social power, and ego (Dekhili & Achabou, 2016;        Lee's (2010) call to examine the role of culture in sustainability by
Dekhili et al., 2018) rather than desiring unique products, one could      examining if cultural values moderate the link between the desire for
see how luxury attitudes would not be related to sustainable beha-         unique products and sustainable behaviors.
viors as they are not fulfilling these needs. As the literature has il-        Individualistic people are driven by their needs and self‐esteem
lustrated the need for uniqueness can work as a mediator (Sun et al.,      enhancement (Hofstede, 2018) with fewer worries about in‐group
2017), we submit the desire for unique products may also work as a         norms and consequences (Sun et al., 2004), while collectivist people
mediator. The link connecting luxury attitudes with sustainable be-        prefer a tightly‐knit loyal societal framework where relatives or a
haviors may be illuminated with the desire for unique products as a        particular in‐group look after them (Hofstede, 2018). Collectivists are
mediator. The literature's discrepancies connecting luxury with sus-       more susceptible to normative influences to be socially accepted (Yim
tainability may be explained through the desire for unique products        et al., 2014) with “a greater emphasis on the group's well‐being than
as luxury consumers are willing to engage in sustainable behaviors if      the individual's well‐being” (Mai et al., 2020, p. 679).
doing so fulfills their desire for unique products.                            In relating culture to sustainability, horizontal collectivism posi-
    We propose that both social factors, wanting to be seen by             tively influences consumers’ perceived effectiveness of environ-
others as sustainable, as well as individual factors, desiring unique      mental attitudes and behaviors, leading them to feel obligated to be
products, are at work. Jebarajakirthy and Das (2021, p. 1) indicate        eco‐friendly (Cho et al., 2013). Others find peer influence increases
that both the “need for uniqueness and social comparison are vital         the selection of green products and attribute it to herd behavior
aspects in shaping people's motive to become distinct in multiple          (Salazar et al., 2013). Tascioglu et al. (2017) offers a connection be-
facets of life” including luxury consumption. As consumers “care           tween status motivation and consumers’ perceptions of sustainable
about communicating specific, desired identities” (Berger & Heath,         retailers, with a stronger connection for those with higher collectivist
2007, p. 133) to others, we postulate that for those consumers with        values. Collectivist consumers are “more willing to perform a beha-
luxury social attitudes who want to be seen positively as sustainable,     vior that benefits the society at large even though that behavior
they can illustrate how they stand out relative to their social group,     might be inconvenient” (Sreen et al., 2018, p. 180). Segev (2015) finds
not in an anti‐conformity or unusual manner, but through their desire      collectivism   indirectly   impacts   conservation   behavior       though
1886    |                                                                                                                         EASTMAN   ET AL.
environmental concern and values, environmental knowledge, and            has consumers consider luxury brands but does not define what is a
perceived consumer effectiveness. Additionally, research shows a          luxury brand or have the respondents specify a luxury brand in their
positive relationship between the level of reference group identity       responses. Consumers’ brand self‐congruence is focused on their
and sustainable purchase intentions (Ferguson et al., 2017). Aagerup      perceptions of how they see themselves relative to their perception
and Nilsson (2016) explain green consumption behaviors in terms of        of what luxury brands are. Consumers can realize self‐congruence by
the desire to fit in.                                                     consumption of brands with a brand personality they consider to be
    We suggest the collectivist concern for others enhances the           close to either their ideal or actual self (Malär et al., 2011). Brand
connection between luxury attitudes, the desire for unique products,      traits must be consistent to the consumer's attributes for self‐
with sustainability. For those consumers with the goal of illustrating    congruence to occur (Jerónimo et al., 2018). Self‐congruence may
in a positive manner how they are unique from others, we propose          improve consumers’ reactions to the brand (Aaker, 1999) and higher
they will be more likely to exhibit sustainable behaviors given that      self‐congruence can increase emotional brand attachment (Malär
sustainability efforts are still at a low level in the United States      et al., 2011).
(Desilver, 2019) making it a unique positive action, and that this link       In relating brand self‐congruence to sustainability, for example,
will be stronger for those consumers who have a stronger concern for      the effectiveness of corporate social responsibility actions relates to
the group (i.e., more collectivist) as proposed below:                    whether the actions are seen as congruent with the brand's per-
    When collectivism is high, the relationship between the desire for    sonality (Janssen et al., 2014). When brands link environmental and/
unique products and ecologically conscious consumer behaviors is          or social associations to their image, they enhance consumer sa-
stronger.                                                                 tisfaction (Chen, 2010). A sustainable brand is a purpose‐driven brand
    When collectivism is high, the relationship between the desire for    that offers meaning by aligning the different stakeholders around a
unique products and socially responsible consumer behavior is stronger.   common project which is good for the society. It comprises two di-
    Hofstede (1980) categorized societies in terms of femininity          mensions: the “being” of the brand (i.e., its personality and values
versus masculinity. If the dominant values focus on quality of life and   related to sustainability), which the consumer judges what is ethical
caring for others, the society is seen as more feminine, while if the     and responsible in a brand, and the “action” of the brand (i.e., its
focus is on possessions, money, and success, the society is seen to be    perceived activities in favor of sustainability) which projects the
more masculine (Hofstede & Bond, 1984). Weidmann et al. (2009)            brand's societal commitments (Dekhili et al., 2021). We hypothesize
suggest the cultural values of femininity‐masculinity could motivate      the link between the desire for unique products and sustainable
luxury value perceptions. Sustainable offers are targeted to women        behaviors are enhanced for those with higher brand self‐congruency
through utilizing more feminine characteristics, such as caring for the   for their luxury attitudes as consumers’ need for unique products and
environment (Brough et al., 2016). Per Hofstede (2001), masculinity       sustainable behavior is influenced by how they see themselves.
favors a preference for economic growth over environmental pre-           Therefore:
servation. In this sense, valuing material success could lead to lower        When self‐congruence is high, the relationship between desire for
levels of sustainability, while an orientation for caring for human       unique products and ecologically conscious consumer behavior is
relationships could lead to stronger levels of sustainability (Husted,    stronger.
2005). We offer that a lower level of masculinity (i.e., more feminine)       When self‐congruence is high, the relationship between desire for
would strengthen the link between the desire for unique products          unique products and socially responsible consumer behavior is stronger.
and sustainability as these consumers may be more interested in
illustrating their unique concern for sustainability. We propose the
following:                                                                3 |     METHODOL OGY
    When masculinity is low, the relationship between the desire for
unique products and ecologically conscious consumer behavior is           3.1 |       Data collection
stronger.
    When masculinity is low, the relationship between desire for unique   This survey research utilized a Qualtrics’ US panel of 359 re-
products and socially responsible consumer behavior is stronger.          spondents, quota sampled to match the US ethnic makeup (United
                                                                          States Census Bureau, 2015), aiming to capture a broad range of
                                                                          luxury attitudes. Kunz et al. (2020) discuss the need to look at
2.3.4       | Brand self‐congruence                                       broader samples to get a fuller picture of the link between luxury and
                                                                          sustainability. The age category was mostly 25–44 years old (88%).
Self‐congruence has been described as the fit between the brand's         The sample was evenly distributed by gender (50% female) and di-
image or personality and the consumer (Aaker, 1999; Sirgy, 1982).         verse ethnically with 72% Caucasian. For education, 28% of the
With brand self‐congruence, “the brand image is perceived as in line      sample were high school graduates, 46% of the sample had some
with the way the individual consumer perceives him/herself to be,         college (associate degree) and 26% had a university or graduate de-
but not necessarily in line with what others perceive him/her to be”      gree. The median income category was $30,000–$39,999, and 44%
(Tsai, 2005, p. 438). Tsai's (2005) measure of brand‐self congruence      reported they were married, while 44% never married.
EASTMAN    ET AL.                                                                                                                                |     1887
Ecologically conscious consumer behavior (ECCB) 0.23** 0.21** 0.28** 0.07 0.88
Socially responsible consumer behavior (SRCB) 0.05 0.10 0.23** −0.21** 0.57** 0.84
Brand self congruence (SELF) 0.12* 0.15** 0.14** −0.01 0.20** 0.25** 0.77
Desire for unique products (UNIQ) 0.41** 0.40** 0.29** 0.27** 0.27** 0.17** 0.26** 0.84
Standard deviation 1.14 1.15 0.90 1.00 0.94 1.05 0.92 1.30
Average variance extracted 0.80 0.75 0.54 0.58 0.56 0.57 0.54 0.52
moderating roles of collectivism, masculinity, and brand self‐                            and ecologically conscious consumer behavior and socially responsible
congruence.                                                                               consumer behavior, although at the 0.10 level.
H1 through H4 are examined with the structural model. As illustrated                      The moderating roles2 of collectivism, masculinity, and brand self‐
in Figure 1, the results demonstrate the structural model has an ac-                      congruence are tested using multigroup analyses in SEM as shown in
ceptable fit to the data (χ2 = 638.65, df = 221, p < 0.001; χ2/df = 2.88;                 Table 3. Following the commonly accepted approach, we create
RMSEA = 0.07; CFI = 0.92; TLI = 0.91).1                                                   groups for self‐congruence, collectivism, and masculinity using a
      The squared multiple correlations for desire for unique products,                   median split.
socially responsible consumer behavior, and ecologically conscious con-                        For collectivism, a restricted baseline model constraining all of the
sumer behavior are 0.22, 0.07, and 0.13. Per Table 2, our results                         relationships to be equal among the high and the low collectivism
demonstrate the relationship between value‐expressive attitude                            groups is investigated. The χ2 difference between the unconstrained
(p < 0.05) and desire for unique products, supporting H1. We also find                    and the constrained model is not significant (Δχ(26)2 = 35.97, p < 0.10).
support for the relationship between desire for unique products and                       The multigroup analysis shows that while collectivism moderates the
ecologically conscious consumer behavior (H3; p < 0.01) and socially                      relationship between desire for unique products and ecologically con-
responsible consumer behavior (H4; p < 0.01). We did not find support                     scious consumer behavior (p < 0.05) supporting H6a, it does not
for the relationship between social‐adjustive attitude and desire for                     moderate the relationship between the desire for unique products and
unique products (H2; p = 0.13).                                                           socially responsible consumer behavior. The positive relationship be-
                                                                                          tween ecologically conscious consumer behavior and the desire for
                                                                                          unique products is stronger for high‐collectivism consumers.
4.2      | Testing for mediation                                                               For masculinity, a restricted baseline model constraining all of the
                                                                                          relationships to be equal among high and low masculinity is in-
The mediating impact of the desire for unique products on ecologi-                        vestigated. The χ2 difference between the unconstrained and the
cally conscious consumer behavior and socially responsible consumer                       constrained model is significant (Δχ(26)2 = 42.38, p < 0.05). The mul-
behavior is explored with the AMOS mediating test. The mediating                          tigroup analysis shows that masculinity does not moderate the re-
effect of desire for unique products on the relationship between value‐                   lationship between desire for unique products and ecologically
expressive luxury attitudes and ecologically conscious consumer behavior                  conscious consumer behavior and. socially responsible consumer beha-
is 0.08 (p = 0.017; CI: 0.027 [lower] and 0.159 [upper]), supporting                      vior Thus, masculinity does serve as a moderator.
H5a. The mediating effect of desire for unique products on the re-                             For brand self‐congruence, a restricted baseline model con-
lationship between value‐expressive luxury attitudes and socially re-                     straining all of the relationships to be equal among the high and the
sponsible consumer behavior is 0.07 (p = 0.018; CI: 0.022 [lower] and                     low self‐congruence groups is investigated. The χ2 difference be-
0.162 [upper]), supporting H5c. In other words, the desire for unique                     tween the unconstrained and the constrained model is significant
products mediates the relationship for value‐expressive luxury atti-                      (Δχ(26)2 = 49.15, p < 0.01). The multigroup analysis shows while brand
tudes with ecologically conscious consumer behavior and socially                          self‐congruence does not moderate the relationship between desire for
responsible consumer behavior.                                                            unique products and ecologically conscious consumer behavior, it does
      A similar approach is used to test the mediating impact of the                      moderate the relationship between the desire for unique products and
desire for unique products on the relationship between socially ad-                       socially responsible consumer behavior (p < 0.05), supporting H8b. The
justive luxury attitudes and ecologically conscious and socially re-                      positive relationship between socially responsible consumer behavior
sponsible consumer behavior. The mediating effect of desire for                           and desire for unique products is stronger for high self‐congruence
unique products on the relationship between socially adjustive luxury                     consumers.
attitudes and ecologically conscious consumer behavior is 0.05
(p = 0.085; CL: 0.002 [lower] and 0.138 [upper]), supporting H5b. The
mediating effect of the desire for unique products on the relationship                    5 |       D IS CU SS IO N A N D I MP LI C A TI O N S
between socially adjustive luxury attitudes and socially responsible
consumer behavior is 0.05 (p = 0.09; CL: 0.001 [lower] and 0.137                          We provide confirmation of the relationship between value‐expressive
[upper]), supporting H5d. This suggests the desire for unique pro-                        attitudes and desire for unique products (H1), desire for unique products
ducts mediates the relationship for socially adjustive luxury attitudes                   and ecologically conscious consumer behavior (H3), and desire for unique
1                                                                                         2
 The measurement model for the base model (not including any moderators) had adequate     The moderating effects of the cultural values of consumer independence and power dis-
fit measures (χ2 = 525.54, df = 220, p < 0.001; χ2/df = 2.39; RMSEA = 0.06; CFI = 0.94;   tance were also examined in the study, but these cultural values were not significant and
TLI = 0.93).                                                                              hence are not included in the study.
EASTMAN    ET AL.                                                                                                                                   |   1889
products and socially responsible consumer behavior (H4). There is not a          level. This study also supports the mediating relationship of desire for
significant connection for social‐adjustive attitudes and desire for unique       unique products between social‐adjustive luxury attitudes and ecologi-
products (H2). These findings offer that the relationship between luxury          cally conscious consumer behavior (H5b) and socially responsible con-
attitudes and desire for unique products is related to the self‐expression        sumer behavior (H5d) though only significant at the 0.10 level.
rather than the social‐adjustive function. This result supports previous               In terms of moderating relationships with collectivism (H6),
studies. For example, Papista and Dimitradis (2019) find that the self‐           masculinity (H7), and brand self‐congruence (H8), this study finds the
expressive benefit of buying green products significantly impacts re-             connection between the desire for unique products and ecologically
lationship quality while the socialization benefit does not. Our results          conscious consumer behavior is stronger for high‐collectivist con-
clarify the connection between luxury attitudes to both ecologically              sumers (H6a), meaning that the impact of desire for unique products
conscious consumer behavior and socially responsible consumer behavior            on ecologically conscious consumer behavior is higher for those who
is mediated by the desire for unique products. This suggests the desire for       are concerned with the group. Collectivism has support as a mod-
unique products mediates the relationship between value‐expressive                erator in sustainability research (Tascioglu et al., 2017). Consumers
luxury attitudes and ecologically conscious consumer behavior (H5a) and           can be influenced by the expectations, presence, and behaviors of
socially responsible consumer behavior (H5c) and is significant at the 0.05       others, mainly the members of their social groups (White et al., 2019).
                                                                                  Norms about what is appropriate socially impacts sustainable con-
                                                                                  sumer behaviors (Achabou et al., 2018; Peattie, 2010). Also, sus-
TABLE 3         Results of moderation analyses                                    tainable behaviors depend on people's social identities as consumers
                                                                                  are more likely to adopt these behaviors when ingroup members are
 Collectivism           Low collectivism      High collectivism      χ2 diff.
                                                                                  (White et al., 2019).
 UNIQ → SRCB            0.07                  0.38***                1.57              The relationship between the desire for unique products and
 UNIQ → ECCB            0.05                  0.44***                5.23**       socially responsible consumer behavior is stronger for high brand
 Masculinity          Low masculinity      High masculinity          χ2 diff.     self‐congruence consumers (H8b); indicating people who desire un-
                                                                                  ique products with higher brand self‐congruence see socially con-
 UNIQ → SRCB          0.12                 0.47***                   1.72
                                                                                  scious sustainable behaviors as congruent with who they are. Muniz
 UNIQ →               0.17*                0.42***                   1.11
                                                                                  et al. (2019) stress that socially conscious sustainable behaviors must
    ECCB
                                                                                  be voluntary to be congruent with who one is. Andrei et al. (2017)
 Brand self‐                   Low self‐          High self‐                      suggest the link for the desire for unique products with socially re-
 congruence                   congruence         congruence          χ2 diff.
                                                                                  sponsible consumption is due to perceptions of power to make a
 UNIQ → SRCB              0.34***             0.06                   4.00**       difference and feeling special for being able to do so.
 UNIQ → ECCB              0.22**              0.20**                 0.03              Masculinity does not serve as a moderator as it does not enhance
                                                                                  the connection for the desire for unique products and sustainable
Abbreviations: ECCB, ecologically conscious consumer behavior; SAF,
social‐adjustive function; SRCB, socially responsible consumer behavior;          behaviors (either ecological or social; H7a and H7b). This is in line
UNIQ, desire for unique products; VEF, value expressive function.                 with the conclusions of Husted (2005) who states that the influence
***p < 0.001; **p < 0.01; *p < 0.05.                                              of masculinity‐femininity is limited. Additionally, the control variables
1890     |                                                                                                                         EASTMAN    ET AL.
of age, gender, and income were tested to see if they had an impact        (Kauppinen‐Räisänen et al., 2018; Yim et al., 2014) through moder-
on the model. None of these constructs significantly affected the          ating the relationship between the desire for unique products and
model.                                                                     ecologically conscious consumer behavior. Our findings substantiate
      Overall, the results help address why luxury attitudes can impact    Sharma et al. (2018) that projecting status may relate to doing good
consumers’ sustainable behaviors through the mediating role of de-         and supports research connecting collectivism with sustainability
sire for unique products, and how collectivism and brand self‐             (Segev, 2015; Sreen et al., 2018). The impact of collectivism illus-
congruence strengthen this link for different types of sustainable         trates that sustainability signals that one is a desirable, trustworthy,
behaviors.                                                                 and helpful group member (Griskevicius et al., 2010). Our results also
                                                                           support that collectivists may be more susceptible to normative in-
                                                                           fluence and use consumption to be more socially acceptable (Yim
5.1      | Theoretical contribution                                        et al., 2014). Not all cultural values though will enhance the con-
                                                                           nection between luxury and sustainability as we did not find support
Our research provides a new contribution by suggesting a reason            for masculinity as a moderator.
for the literature's mixed findings regarding the relationship                 Finally, this study contributes to the brand self‐congruence lit-
between luxury and sustainability (Dekhili & Achabou, 2016;                erature by illustrating the importance of brand traits’ congruence
Kapferer & Michaut‐Denizeau, 2013). For those with positive                with one's sense of identity (Jerónimo et al., 2018). Consumers are
luxury social attitudes (Wilcox et al., 2009), especially in terms of      more sensitive to brands’ sustainability efforts with luxury brands
self‐expression, their sustainability behaviors are mediated by their      expected to set an example in sustainability (Dekhili & Achabou,
desire for unique products. The symbolic aspects of sustainable            2016). Our findings support Tsai's (2005) observation that luxury
behaviors “provide the opportunity to the consumer to express his          motivation extends beyond impression management to illustrate
identity, reflect his belief system and enjoy self‐fulfillment value”      one's internal self. An interesting finding of our research is that the
(Papista & Dimitradis, 2019, p. 179). These results support Costly         role of brand self‐congruency enhanced the relationship between
Signaling Theory (Griskevicius et al., 2010) by offering that luxury       desire for unique products and socially responsible consumer beha-
impacts sustainability through value‐expressive luxury attitudes           vior but not ecologically conscious consumer behavior. This suggests
with the need for unique products. The results may address the             that how one sees oneself in terms of being socially responsible
divergence between luxury attitudes and sustainability (Eckhardt           (including treatment of women and minorities) is more important than
et al., 2010; Groening et al., 2018) by demonstrating the desire for       being seen as an environmentalist.
unique products mediates the relationship between value‐
expressive luxury attitudes and sustainable behaviors. In terms of
the green bundle approach, this finding further supports that sus-         5.2 |     Managerial contribution
tainability can be driven by other concerns beyond the altruistic
dimensions (Aagerup & Nilsson, 2016). Also, this study addresses           There is a need to encourage more sustainable consumption
concerns with student samples and fictitious scenarios (Athwal             (Aagerup & Nilsson, 2016). “A profound understanding of the me-
et al., 2019) through utilizing a national panel of US consumers and       chanisms behind the successful combination of luxury and sustain-
self‐reported sustainability behaviors.                                    ability can provide insights for both enhancing individual firm success
      The lack of findings regarding the social‐adjustive function could   and achieving a shift towards more sustainable products, which is
be addressed by Schade et al. (2016) observation that the social‐          desirable from a societal perspective” (Kunz et al., 2020, p. 541).
adjustive attitude function impacts adolescents (16–25 years old)          There is a real opportunity as the luxury market is transitioning to an
more, while the value‐adjustive attitude function impacts young            era of conscientious luxury (Danziger, 2021). This study contributes
adults (26–39 years old) more. The bulk of our sample is between           by illuminating how we can encourage US consumers’ sustainable
25 and 44 years of age (88%), which may explain the relative strength      behaviors by engaging their luxury attitudes, especially those serving
of value‐expressive luxury attitudes.                                      a self‐expression function (Papista & Dimitradis, 2019).
      This study adds to the culture literature by discussing how the          We offer sustainability behaviors may also increase if
diffusion of cultural values creates commonalities (Craig & Douglas,       consumers see it helps express themselves and meets their desire
2006; Hennigs et al., 2012). While America is seen as one of the most      for unique products. By demonstrating that luxury attitudes lead to
individualistic countries in the world (Hofstede, 2018), we illustrate a   sustainable actions through the desire for unique products, the
substantial portion of Americans are more collectivist (i.e., 42% of the   findings start to lay the groundwork to show how luxury marketers
sample reported an average collectivism score of 3 or higher on a          may effectively market sustainable luxury though future research is
5‐point scale). This finding is supported (Eastman et al., 2018;           needed specifically with sustainable luxury products. The findings
Tascioglu et al., 2017) and meshes with the Pew Research Center            offer that luxury may be compatible with sustainability. The
which reports Americans want the government to do more in                  key could be to emphasize product uniqueness and how it aids
terms of sustainability (Tyson & Kennedy, 2020). Cultural values,          consumers with expressing their own uniqueness as sustainable
particularly collectivism, can be associated with luxury attitudes         consumers. Given the inconsistency of consumers’ attitudes and
EASTMAN     ET AL.                                                                                                                           |   1891
behaviors noted in the luxury literature (Han et al., 2016) as luxury        did not consider specific luxury brands or determine which luxury
segments can be dissimilar (Athwal et al., 2019), our research               brands the respondents were considering in answering the brand
suggests the role of desire for unique products in helping to                self‐congruence items in the survey. While we utilized the brand
address these inconsistencies. Thus, marketers should consider               self‐congruence measure as designed by Tsai (2005), we ac-
how to complement altruistic benefits with egoistic ones. For the            knowledge the need to examine specific brands, especially sus-
sustainable luxury market, brands may want to focus in particular            tainable      luxury   brands.   Future   researchers   could   explore
on status and desire for unique products. This is well illustrated by        consumers’ responses to luxury marketers’ sustainability efforts as
Stella McCartney who presents eco‐materials, such as vegetarian              well as how marketers can effectively promote sustainable luxury
leather (vs. animal leather) as luxurious, unique, and resulting from a      (Athwal et al., 2019). Kunz et al. (2020) highlight the need for
considerable innovative work (Luxiders, 2020).                               research to determine what product characteristics work best in
      As collectivism enhances the connection with the desire for unique     successfully combining luxury with sustainability. Finally, given the
products and ecologically conscious consumer behavior, marketers can         growth of the sharing economy (Viglia, 2020) and the possibilities
promote awareness of how one can make a difference for the group. As         of achieving both sustainability and luxury with luxury rentals, such
more collectivist consumers have been found to be more interested in         as the Run the Runway collaborative consumption platform
collaborative consumption platforms higher in consociality (Mai et al.,      (Pantano & Stylos, 2020), future research needs to explore colla-
2020), this supports our suggestion to stress how one can make a dif-        borative luxury consumption.
ference for others with his/her sustainable behaviors.                           The desire for unique products accounted for only 22% of the
      In terms of sustainable luxury, Pantano and Stylos (2020) iden-        variance. This suggests there are other constructs not in the model
tified a number of consumer motivations in renting luxury (i.e.,             that need to be considered. Future researchers could examine addi-
sharing and collaborative consumption), including the desire for             tional moderators, such as self‐monitoring and attention to social
“new” items for a special event and consumers’ need to make more             comparison (Aagerup & Nilsson, 2016). Finally, while consumers in
sustainable choices. This suggests collaborative consumption may be          different countries may express a global attitude toward sustainable
a means for marketers to increase the sustainability of their items for      luxury beyond country boundaries and cultures (Kapferer & Michaut‐
luxury consumers. This relates to our finding indicating that luxury         Denizeau, 2019), future researchers should examine cross‐cultural
attitudes impact sustainable behaviors through the desire for unique         differences.
products.                                                                        In conclusion, this study offers a possible reason for past mixed
      Firms may capitalize on consumers’ luxury attitudes, especially        findings regarding the link between luxury and sustainability by il-
with the self‐expressive function, to increase consumers’ sustainable        lustrating the mediating impact of the desire for unique products.
behaviors. US consumers may not perform sustainable behaviors                This suggests that consumers with positive luxury social attitudes,
because they do not know how they can make a difference (Gardner             particularly those that are value‐expressive, are more likely to exhibit
& Stern, 2008), so marketers can promote ways an individual can              sustainable behaviors if they desire unique consumption experiences.
indeed make a difference. As suggested by Husted (2005), environ-            It needs to be noted that the link between social‐adjustive luxury
mental education programs should consider planet degradation as a            attitudes (i.e., those with the function to gain social approval) and
potential threat to the interests of the social in‐groups. Finally, as the   sustainability mediated by the desire for unique products is sig-
connection with the desire for unique products and socially re-              nificant only at the 0.10 level. This suggests that the impact of po-
sponsible consumer behavior is enhanced by brand self‐congruence,            sitive luxury attitudes works more through self‐expression than
marketers should stress how luxury attitudes are compatible with             through gaining social approval. This study also illustrates that the
sustainability; for instance, by discussing the long‐term durability of      connection with the desire for unique products and sustainability can
luxury goods compared to mass‐produced disposable products                   be strengthened differently based on the type of sustainability
(Cervellon, 2013) and the ability to extend the lifecycle of                 (ecological or socially responsible) and moderator. For ecological
luxury products through collaborative consumption (Pantano &                 sustainability, the link is strengthened by collectivism which submits
Stylos, 2020).                                                               that the desire for unique products is more likely to encourage
                                                                             ecological sustainability if consumers feel it benefits the group rather
                                                                             than the individual. For social sustainability, the link is strengthened
5.3     | Limitations and future research                                    by brand self‐congruence which indicates that the desire for unique
                                                                             products is more likely to make someone be socially sustainable if
It is essential to discuss the study's limitations and future research       they see that as being congruent with who they are. Thus, this study
opportunities. First, we used cross‐sectional data that do not               hopes to help marketers in encouraging US consumers’ sustainable
provide evidence of causality. It would be beneficial for experi-            behaviors.
mental manipulation of the desire for unique products. Another
limitation is that the sample did not distinguish between luxury             ORC I D
consumers and non‐luxury consumers but instead looked at the                 Jacqueline K. Eastman       http://orcid.org/0000-0002-4006-8080
range of luxury attitudes in a large sample of Americans. This study         Rajesh Iyer      http://orcid.org/0000-0001-5021-9447
1892    |                                                                                                                                         EASTMAN     ET AL.
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